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PILLERS TO COME One for the recipe. One for me. Po ortob obel ob ello el lo o stu uff ffed ed wit ith h On Onio ions io ns,, Su ns Sund ndri nd r ed Tom ri omat atoe at oes, oe s, Olilive ves ve s an and d Ko Kolb lbas lb assa as sa - Alller erge ge en Fr Free ee** ee Becaus Beca u e th us they ey’r ey ’re ’r e ta tast sty. st y. Rea eall lly ll y ta tast s y. Lik st ke al alll Pi Pill lller er’s ’s Sim impl ply pl y Fr Free e ® pro ee rodu duct du cts ct s, our Kol s, o ba ass ssa a Sa aus usag age ag e Sn Snac acks ac ks are fre ree e of glu lute ten te n an and d al alle le erg gen ens. s.** Vo s. Vote ted te d Be Best st New Rea eady dy to Ea E t Pa Pack ckag ck aged ag ed Meat Me at by Ca Cana nadi na dian di an con nsu sume mers me rs,,† the rs ey arre hi h gh in pr prot otei ot e n, onl ei nly y 50 cal alor orie or ies ie s pe perr sa saus us sag age, e, and made ma de wit ith h on only ly por o k an and d na natu tura tu rall in ra ngr gred edie ed ie ent nts. s. The Best New Product Awards logo is a trademark of Best New Product Awards Inc., used under license. * Free of all major food allergens (gluten, milk, peanuts, tree nuts, mustard, sesame, egg, fish, soy, sulphites) † According to results of the 2015 BrandSpark Best New Product Awards survey conducted by BrandSpark International. For more information visit www.BestNewProducts.ca
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welcome home
QUENCH MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2015 RAMP IT UP × 22 SPRING CAN BE CRUEL BUT SOON ENOUGH IT GIVES US SPRING VEGETABLES. BY ROSEMARY MANTINI BEING BALANCED × 24 ACIDITY CAN BE GOOD, BAD AND EVEN BALANCED. WHAT IS IT REALLY? BY LISA HOEKSTRA LOW PROOF × 28 BARTENDERS ARE LOOKING TO LOW ALCOHOL COCKTAILS TO HELP DRAW OUT THE EXPERIENCE. BY SARAH PARNIAK TRULY WORTH IT × 30 BORDEAUX FOR UNDER $30? YES, IT EXISTS. BY MICHAEL PINKUS
34
WHAT MAKES A BOTTLING INTO A “CULT WINE?” × 32 GREAT THINGS ARE COMING FROM BRITISH COLUMBIA. BY TIM PAWSEY DREAMS ARE MADE OF THIS × 34 NIAGARA OFTEN COMPARES ITSELF TO BORDEAUX. IS IT APPROPRIATE? BY RICK VANSICKLE CULTURE CLUB × 39 FERMENTED GOODIES THAT ADD DEPTH TO OUR DISHES. BY SILVANA LAU BOLDLY GOING... × 44 NOT TOO SURE WHAT MATCHES WELL WITH ASIAN COOKING? LET US HELP YOU. BY TOD STEWART SAUCY × 48 A LITTLE SOMETHING TO DRESS UP YOUR FAVOURITE MEALS. BY DUNCAN HOLMES
39 DEPARTMENTS GETTIN' FRESH × 52 THESE TWO WORDS HAVE A BUNCH OF DIFFERENT MEANINGS. BY NANCY JOHNSON
IS FINE DINING REALLY DEAD? × 65 OR HAS THE CONCEPT SIMPLY CHANGED? BY GURVINDER BHATIA
NOTED × 54 EXPERTLY-TASTED BUYING GUIDE FOR WINES, BEERS, CIDERS AND SPIRITS FROM AROUND THE WORLD.
COMMUNICATING YOUR PASSION × 66 DO WINE WRITERS NEED TO WORK ON THEIR COMMUNICATION SKILLS? BY TONY ASPLER
GO LOW × 63 THE ADVANTAGES OF DRINKING WINES WITH LESS ALCOHOL. BY SILVANA LAU MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 3
@quench_mag Follow, like and connect with us online. OUR SECOND BOOK, QUENCH COOKS THINGS WITH WINGS, IS NOW AVAILABLE AT THE KOBO STORE. You can
“Tony Aspler’s suggestion about Vermentino [‘The Next Big Thing’; April issue] is bang on. I’ve been a fan of this white grape for ages. Anyone who hasn’t tried it yet should read the article and buy a bottle.” Gino Monteverde, email
get both books in this series for FREE at books.quench.me. You can also search for the ebooks in the Kindle or iTunes store.
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Wanted to let you know how much I enjoyed Tod Stewart’s piece “Still Life” in the February/March issue. Informative and a good read. Davin de Kergommeaux, author, Canadian Whisky: The Portable Expert
join us in the conversation
“I really enjoyed Rick VanSickle’s article ‘The Right Words’. I’ve noticed that Canadian and other New World wines are sporting Old World label terminology more and more in the recent years. I can understand from a marketing perspective why they’re doing that, but as a consumer I find it very confusing. You get used to applying certain terms, like First Growth, to certain types of wines and having to readjust your personal definition of it in your mind can be troublesome, especially when you’re standing in the aisle of your liquor store trying to make a decision.” Barbara Rusnak, Thunder Bay
for recent back issues: back.quench.me
THERE ARE A LOT OF WORDS THAT CAN BE USED TO DESCRIBE A WINE.
Flowery to more technical text spews from Noted. Some people get into it and can picture exactly what the writer is insinuating. Others are just confused. But when it comes to things like tannins and the all mighty acid, everyone gets it (see page 24 for more on acidity). Or at least they understand what is meant by these descriptors. They feel it instantly on their palate.
4 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
We spend a lot of time and energy developing our palates — I’m using the universal we here. With every glass we sip, a nuance is discovered. A flavour is defined. It’s the most enjoyable part of becoming a wine lover. Now I know I don’t need to tell you to drink more — although I already have. But the more effort you put into exploring, the wider your range of experiences can be when defining a wine. As you taste, keep in mind the winemaker's intention. It’s the one thing that seems to be forgotten. There are years — if not centuries — of tradition. Then there are the personal preferences of the winemakers themselves. Do they want to challenge the status quo or create a twist on a theme? Are they using indigenous grapes or tried and true varietals everyone is used to? These are all questions you can ask yourself after the first sip. But make sure you stop there. You don’t want to ruin the experience by over thinking it.
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Discover Beaujolais’s Bijoux Wineries with Opimian…
OPIM TO COME
Opimian sparks conversation, creates friendship and connects Canadians to winemakers worldwide through their love of wine. As Canada’s premier wine club since 1973, Opimian forges bonds between the men and women behind the wine to the people who enjoy it most – our members. Beaujolais is aptly named; “beau”, French for beautiful, and “jolais”, a derivative of the latin “jogum” - hill. This scenic region is a picturesque landscape of rolling hills and valleys, most of which contain the oh-so-familiar vines. Found among the tranquil roads and bustling vineyards are the bijoux of the industry – small, family-run wineries that make quality wines without compromising for quantity. Many will never know that these estates exist, as the winemakers focus on winemaking rather than marketing. Fortunately, négociants Bernard and Blandine Perrin exist, searching out these special estates to offer their wines to niche markets such as Opimian. A familiar name in Opimian’s Cellar Offerings, Bernard and Blandine source quaint wines as well as offering a selection of wines from their estate – Domaine de Milhomme. They are the best guides when it comes to exploring the evolving flavour of Beaujolais – discover these bijoux wineries for yourself.
Share The Total Wine Experience and discover Beaujolais. 1.800.361.9421 • opim.ca Cellar Offering 233
Domaine de Milhomme, Vigne Centenaire, 2013, AOC Beaujolais A large proportion of the vines at Domaine de Milhomme are old, but the vines used for the Vigne Centenaire are especially so, having been planted in 1887. At that time, phylloxera had devastated France’s vineyards working its way around the country from region to region. The cause took years to identify and the solution remained unknown. If it hadn’t been for the efforts of locally-born ampelographer Victor Pulliat, who knows what would have happened to French wines. Pulliat actively promoted grafting vines onto phylloxera-resistant rootstock; what has become the norm today in many of the world’s wine regions, but which at the time was not widely accepted. Following his advice, Bernard’s great-great-grandfather did so, grafting Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc onto Viala rootstock - et voila! Low yields of concentrated grapes were produced in 2013. The wine has spices, white pepper, black fruits and meaty aromas. It is structured with good acidity. Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc
16° C
Meaty, white pepper
2015-2017, M8 D9
Dark fruits, spice
Lamb chops
CONTRIBUTORS Silvana Lau is a part-time globe wanderer but a full-time bon vivant. You can find her restaurant hopping in neighbourhoods across Toronto, obsessing over her gai lan addiction (her all-time favourite vegetable) or asking her friends a variety of quirky “would you rather” questions. Her ideal way to de-stress after a long day involves the 3C’s: Crank up the music, Crack open a bottle of wine and Cook up a storm! You can follow her on Twitter @silzies.
Rosemary Mantini is thrilled to be a food and drink writer, and is inspired by the culinary artisans she’s met. She embraces lifelong learning, vacations and, of course, wine. Follow her @TheEloquentWord.
A self-proclaimed bookworm (and proud of it), Lisa Hoekstra has transformed her love of reading into a freelance writing career that spans an eclectic range of topics, from geriatric care management to aromatherapy. Her passion for discovering new things has helped her in her role as the editorial lead for Quench’s micro-publication on Creatavist, Q School (read more about this snack for your mind on page 10).
www.quench.me Editor-in-chief
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MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 7
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À LA CARTE Q SCHOOL × 10 CHOPPING AN ONION, MINUS THE TEARS. GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON × 13 IT'S SALAD SEASON. UMAMI BY KATIA JEAN PAUL × 15 TALKING TO SPICE HUNTER IAN HEMPHILL. NEXT STOP × 16 OYSTER BARS DOT THE CANADIAN LANDSCAPE. FEED BY TOM DE LARZAC × 18 NAILING MUSSELS IN TOMATO SAUCE. LAZY MIXOLOGIST BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO × 19 PUT THE LIME IN THE COCONUT (AND DRINK ‘EM BOTH UP). PREP × 20 USING SALAD DRESSING AS A MARINADE. BON VIVANT BY PETER ROCKWELL × 21 WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE WINE TO MATCH WITH GRILLED STEAK?
MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 9
Q SCHOOL
DON’T MAKE ME CRY
ONIONS, WITH THEIR POTENT, EYE-WATERING SMELL, ARE THE BANE OF MANY A HOME CHEF’S MEAL PREP. But the
tear-jerking nature of cutting an onion isn’t the only concern — cutting it correctly without dicing a finger is up there. Follow these steps to save your fingers as you chop.
THE FIRST CHOP •• Place the onion on its side. •• Slice off the top and bottom, creating two flat ends. •• Stand it up on one flat end. •• Place the blade across the top, so the edge intersects the bull’s eye at the centre of the onion.
•• With your thumb and forefinger, hold the rounded sides, making an arch with your hand over the knife.
THE SLICE •• Slice straight down through the onion’s centre. •• Take one half (set the other aside); peel off the skin. •• Place it on its broad, flat side with the top and bottom facing left and right. •• Place the knife parallel to the “top” flat end, with the fingers of your free hand resting on the “bottom” end.
•• Cut the onion crosswise, slicing off semi-circles parallel to the flat ends. •• Once you’ve cut the whole length, flip these semi-circles sideways to make a little stack.
THE DICE •• Hold the stack on the rounded side and position your blade parallel to the flat end — the stack will slide around a bit, so be careful.
•• Slice down across the flat edge of the onion, creating “matchsticks” — the natural lines in the onion cause these matchsticks to fall apart into cubes.
•• Continue until the entire stack is chopped.
THE FINAL CHOP •• Not all of the matchsticks will separate; help them by chopping crossways across your pile until it’s all diced.
•• Repeat The Slice, The Dice and The Final Chop with the rest of the onion and presto: a chopped onion! That wasn’t too painful ... *sniffle* ×
10 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
Q School on Creatavist
Did you know we publish an issue of Q School every two weeks on the Creatavist app? Each issue is dedicated to helping you get the most out of life. It's like a snack for your mind. You can read it online and on any tablet or smart phone. Here are some of our more popular issues: Umami, the fifth basic taste, is difficult to describe and even more difficult to identify in the food we eat. Understanding Umami explores this elusive taste and the essential role it plays in making food delicious. quench.creatavist.com/ understanding-umami There is a reason why cheese and wine are a popular pairing - Have some cheese with that wine explains the mechanics and gives a cheat sheet of cheese pairing options. quench.creatavist.com/ cheesewithwine Confidence in the kitchen is all about having the right tools and tricks. Own your kitchen reveals just which tools you need and gives you a few pointers directly from the experts. quench.creatavist.com/ ownyourkitchen France's wine regions and appellations number in the millions — or so it can seem, especially when you're first learning about wine. In this issue of Q School, discover the Loire Valley and South West France wine regions. Then take that knowledge to your next dinner party and show your friends how great wine can be. quench.creatavist.com/ loire-sw-france Download the Creatavist app from the Google Play and iTunes App store. You can also visit quench.creatavist.com to view the issues online.
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HELLMANS IN FOLDER NOW THIS IS AMORE THE HELLMANN’S TASTE YOU LOVE WITH OLIVE OIL ®
MADE WITH SPECIALLY SELECTED INGREDIENTS LIKE FREE RUN EGGS, VINEGAR AND THE GOODNESS OF OLIVE OIL. HELLMANN’S. BRINGING THE BEST TOGETHER FOR 100 YEARS.* ®
GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON
It’s salad season.
KEEP THIS HANDY CHEAT SHEET FOR THE FASTEST AND FRESHEST SALAD DRESSINGS EVER. I’ve included salad suggestions with each recipe, but you can have fun
and create your own. Add grilled chicken, steak or salmon for a delicious and hearty entrée.
ORANGE POPPY SEED DRESSING
2 2 3 1 2/3 1/2
tbsp cider vinegar tbsp honey tbsp orange juice tsp dry mustard cup canola oil tsp poppy seeds
In a blender, mix cider vinegar, honey, orange juice and mustard. Slowly add oil. Transfer to bowl and gently stir in poppy seeds. Serve over salad of baby spinach, baby kale, sliced strawberries, chopped orange sections, julienned carrots and chopped scallions.
TUSCAN PANZANELLA DRESSING 1 1/2 1 1/4
tbsp red wine vinegar tsp sugar Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste cup extra virgin olive oil
Whisk ingredients in small bowl. Serve over salad of cubed country bread, tomato wedges, pitted black olives, chopped cucumbers, capers, chopped parsley and sliced red onion.
RED RUSSIAN SALAD DRESSING Cut back on the sugar, if desired.
1/3 1/3 1/3 1/3
cup ketchup cup cider vinegar cup sugar cup canola oil Salt and pepper, to taste
Whisk in a small bowl. Serve over a salad of mixed greens, pecans, sliced radish, chopped apple and shredded sharp cheddar cheese.
BUTTERMILK RANCH DRESSING
Use fresh herbs if desired, to taste. Add a dash of hot sauce for a spicier version.
1/2 3 2 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/4
cup buttermilk tbsp sour cream tbsp mayonnaise tsp dried dill tsp dried tarragon tsp dried chives tsp dried parsley tsp salt tsp pepper
Whisk ingredients in small bowl. Serve with a salad of chopped romaine, sliced red onions, chopped celery, shredded carrots, chopped tomatoes, chopped avocado and hard-boiled eggs.
BLUE CHEESE DRESSING
This also makes a great dip for Buffalo chicken wings.
1 1/2 2 1 1 1 1/4
cup mayonnaise cup sour cream tsp fresh parsley clove garlic, minced tbsp fresh lemon juice tbsp cider vinegar Salt and pepper, to taste cup blue cheese, crumbled
Whisk all ingredients except blue cheese in small bowl. Gently stir in blue cheese. Thin with a bit of milk if desired. Serve over wedges of iceberg lettuce with bacon and sliced cherry tomatoes. × MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 13
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Spice of life
FROM THE OPEN KITCHENS OF MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS TO DORM KITCHENETTES, A BLAND DISH IS ARGUABLY A CHEF’S WORST NIGHTMARE.
Often, a dash of seasoning makes all the difference, yet raid the pantries of the everyday cook and the most rudimentary spices and herbs are nowhere to be found. Informed by a childhood spent on his parents’ small herb nursery near Sydney, years of experience in the spice and herb trade, and countless travels to spice farms from Bhutan to Zanzibar and beyond, Ian “Herbie” Hemphill knows a thing or two about these undervalued culinary gems, starting with this mythbuster: not all spices are hot. “Overuse of the word ‘spicy’ to even denote food that has been ‘spiced,’ say with cinnamon or cardamom, has given people the idea that spices are hot,” says Hemphill. In fact, spices — anywhere from the buds of a plant to the stigma of a flower — fall into five basic categories: sweet (e.g. cinnamon), pungent (star anise), tangy (tamarind), hot (pepper) and amalgamating (paprika), whereas herbs, the leaves of a plant (e.g. thyme) are said to be savoury. It would be an understatement to say that Hemphill — one of Australia’s foremost authorities on spices and herbs and owner of Herbie’s Spices, a well-stocked shop in the Sydney suburb of Rozelle — boasts extensive knowledge on the subject. One need only flip through The Spice & Herb Bible, Third Edition (2014, Robert Rose Inc.), the latest version of his hefty award-winning tome, to gauge the extent of his appreciation for what is largely responsible for the underlying flavour of a dish. So how does one amass enough knowledge to fill an 800-page book? “Everything I have learned has been from experience, research and the generosity of farmers, traders and food scientists in sharing their knowledge with me,” says Hemphill. But he first gleaned lessons from his parents. “Growing up with herbs and
spices all around me, my mother constantly experimenting and developing recipes, and earning pocket money by helping my dad picking and packing herbs. Through these activities, I think I absorbed a passion, or should I say obsession, for spices and herbs, as if by osmosis.” While Hemphill briefly trained as an actor at The National Institute of Dramatic Art in Australia, soon after he followed in his parents’ footsteps and became managing director of the family’s spice and herb business and the Singapore-based company to which his parents sold their enterprise when they retired in 1986. Three years later, he went on to work as a marketing manager specializing in spices and herbs at the corporate level before opening Herbie’s Spices with his wife Elizabeth Hemphill in 1997. His travels to spice farms — most of which are small, family-owned and harvested by hand — have been equally, if not more, enlightening. “The most edifying and consistent discovery I keep making is just how much work and dedication goes into the growing, harvesting and production of spices,” says Hemphill. “If consumers understood this, they’d happily pay five times as much for good quality spices.” Though the seemingly vast world of spices and herbs boasts exotic fare — according to Hemphill, huacatay, not unlike cilantro, can be used in ocopa sauce and to flavour pork, lamb and goat much like Andean cuisine — the expert recommends that wary cooks ease into it. “One of the easiest and most satisfying spices to get on to is sumac. It is great on avocado or tomato sandwiches, sprinkled over salads or rubbed onto red meats, especially lamb before cooking,” says Hemphill. “Smell, use your imagination and don’t be afraid to experiment.” × MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 15
NEXT STOP
ON THE WATERFRONT
OYSTERS — THESE MOLLUSCS WITH HINGED, IRREGULAR-SHAPED SHELLS, EATEN COOKED OR RAW, ARE AN ACQUIRED TASTE. However, those enamoured with the sometimes sweet, sometimes
briny bivalves are in good company: oyster bars from Nova Scotia to British Columbia honour the aquatic delicacy, shucking and serving the freshest oysters — and seafood — from here and abroad with brio. Beausoleil, Kumamoto, Olympia ... there’s a shellfish to suit every and all palates.
FERRIS’ UPSTAIRS SEAFOOD + OYSTER BAR
www.ferrisoysterbar.com Alentejo-style pork and clams, prosciutto-wrapped longline ling cod, octopus and chorizo — this upscale Vancouver Island eatery’s seafood menu peppered with fresh, local ingredients tantalizes, with each offering more decadent than the last. Even more enticing are the oysters — think cherrywood smoked oysters or fresh chucked bivalves, served with Taittinger Champagne for an all-around gourmet experience.
THE SHACK OYSTER BAR
www.theshackoysterbar.com Nova Scotian shellfish — Black Point oysters and littleneck clams — alongside steamed bay scallops and a generous crobster roll (part snow crab and part lobster) make up some of the no-muss, no-fuss offerings at this rustic, quintessentially Maritime shanty on the boardwalk. Open June to mid-October, on Halifax’s Queen’s Wharf, The Shack’s pleasantly sweet and plump bivalves, whose flavour stems from the distinct qualities of the region’s oyster beds, are as fresh and decadent as can be, without the fanfare.
RODNEY’S OYSTER HOUSE
www.rodneysoysterhouse.com In the never-ending quest for the freshest of shellfish, this downtown Toronto spot goes above and beyond, drawing nine to 26 different oyster varieties from their very own oyster beds in Prince Edward Island, as well as bivalves from reputable local and foreign growers, to serve daily. The result is a raw bar that’s the talk of the town and flavourful fare — a filling lobster club topped with bacon, Nice Fundy scallops and Haida Indian Candy smoked fish, to name a few — that’s well worth the price.
CATCH & THE OYSTER BAR
www.catchrestaurant.ca Fresh catches from the Maritimes served daily. A complately sustainable, ocean-friendly seafood menu that uses hrbs and produce culled from the venue’s rooftop garden. A sleek, classic design. Catch’s oyster bar, located on the main floor of a sophisticated three-storey venue adjacent to Hyatt Regency Calgary, is a cut above the rest. Executive chef Daniel Norcott’s titillating offerings, including Oyster Rockefeller (hot shellfish with wilted spinach and hollandaise), clams carbonara and seared Hokkaido scallop and roasted pork belly, seal the deal. × 16 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
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Nailing the sauce
PEOPLE SAY THAT SOME FOODS GROW ON YOU. Or you have to gain an
appreciation for certain flavours. This was the case for me with mussels. When I was younger, a mussel was something that I never thought I would like. I tried them many ways but could never find a style that I really liked. Eventually, after many attempts, I finally found a way to serve them that worked. There was no magical moment. One day, I tried them with a great tomato sauce and thought, “hey, this is pretty good.” Now mussels make a regular appearance at my house. Even my two-year-old likes them — which is great since they are one of the best sources of iron. I also love to make them when I have people over. They are a show-stopper with guests and many think they are harder to make than they really are (shhh, don’t tell anyone). Mussels have turned into a great meal for myself, my family and my friends. And it all started with nailing the tomato sauce.
18 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
MUSSELS IN TOMATO SAUCE
2 1 2 1/2 2 1/2 1 1 2
tbsp olive oil onion, chopped garlic cloves, chopped cup white wine cups tomato purée cup parsley, chopped tbsp pepper tsp Sriracha (optional) lb mussels, cleaned
1. Place large pot over medium heat. Add olive oil; when heated, add
onion. Sauté until onions becomes translucent. Add garlic and sauté an additional minute. 2. Add wine to deglaze the pan. Add tomato purée, half the parsley, pepper and Sriracha (if using) when the wine has evaporated. Cook tomato base for 3 minutes. 3. Add mussels. Stir, cover with a tight-fitting lid, and cook for 10 to 15 minutes until all shells open and mussels begin to turn pink and firm. 4. Discard any mussels that did not open. Sprinkle remaining parsley over mussels. MATCH: I prefer a dry Riesling from Alsace, but a New World Sauvignon Blanc will also work. ×
LAZY MIXOLOGIST BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO
Put the lime in the coconut (and drink ‘em both up) GOT MILK? Coconut milk, that is. You probably do have a can on hand, seeing as coconut milk is practically indispensable in a range of curries, soups and rice dishes. You just might be wasting that magical ingredient’s full potential, though, if you’re only using it in food, since it’s also an amazing way to brighten up cocktails. In fact, I’d argue that the best piña coladas are made with coconut milk, as opposed to the overly-sweet Coco López that was commonly used to make tropical blender drinks back in the 1980s and 1990s. With unsweetened coconut milk, it’s easier to control the amount of sugar, most of which can come from the fresh pineapple juice and sweet rum. There’s also a range of uses for coconut milk beyond the piña colada. In Brazil, for example, they use this staple to make two of the country’s most popular drinks — the eggnog-esque coquito con ron and the batida de coco, a creamy fruit smoothie spiked with cachaça, a sugar-cane spirit. Its potential applications are practically infinite in the drinks world, something demonstrated by a recent wave of bartenders working with coconut milk to put southeast Asian twists on classic tropical cocktails. Like bartender Katie McDonald of Clive’s Classic Lounge in Victoria, BC, who is especially keen about Thai flavours thanks to her time spent living there and working at a bar called Carlito’s. “I’ll always remember this one standout drink we had called the Thailander,” says McDonald. “Because it was spicy and rich, it didn’t sell terribly well. But I loved that it seemed like a cold version of tom kha gai — coconut soup.” When she began working at Clive’s nearly two years ago, McDonald set her mind to making a lighter and more contemporary version of the slushy tropical drink. But the challenge with top-grade coconut milk (the version that comes in a brown label) is that it’s rich (over 20 percent fat) and separates very easily, making it hard to work with. McDonald loves a challenge though and, after considerable effort, hit on the idea of making a coconut syrup for her tribute to Southeast Asia — the Carl of Thailand.
× Visit quench.me/search-mixed/ for more drink recipes
CARL OF THAILAND
3 1 2 1/2 1/2 1/4
inches lemongrass, chopped medium-sized kaffir lime leaf oz Flor de Caña five-year-old rum oz fresh lime juice oz homemade coconut syrup (see below) oz Thai chili vinegar (see below)
Vigorously muddle lemongrass and kaffir leaf. Shake all ingredients with ice and double-strain into a small coupe. Garnish with a floating kaffir leaf and a red Thai chili.
COCONUT SYRUP
1 1 1 1
cup coconut milk (with fat) cup sugar cup water pinch salt
Bring these ingredients to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes.
THAI CHILI VINEGAR
Chop 4 red Thai chilies and add to full bottle of seasoned rice wine vinegar. Leave overnight and then strain chilies out. × MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 19
PREP
Dress it up
YOU’VE HAD DRESSING ON YOUR GREENS (see page 13) but did you know
it can also make an ideal marinade. These two dressing recipes have all the right elements: An acid to break down the meat. Oil to coat it and a hit of sweet and savoury to give you a flavour punch. Make sure to marinade your meat for several hours, if not overnight.
FRENCH VINAIGRETTE
This makes a great marinade for flank steak.
2 1 1 1 1/2 1/4 1/4 1/2
tbsp balsamic vinegar tbsp red wine vinegar tbsp Dijon mustard tsp sugar tsp salt tsp pepper tsp dry mustard cup olive oil
In small bowl, whisk all ingredients. ON GREENS: Serve over salad of mixed greens, watercress, roasted baby beets and chèvre.
HONEY MUSTARD DRESSING Use to punch up your chicken.
3/4 cup mayonnaise 1/3 cup honey 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
Whisk ingredients in a small bowl. Thin with milk if desired. ON GREENS: Serve over salad of mixed greens, dried cranberries, sunflower seeds, chopped celery, chickpeas, toasted walnuts and crumbled feta cheese. × 20 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
BON VIVANT BY PETER ROCKWELL
What is your favourite wine to match with grilled steak?
ILLUSTRATION: MATT DALEY/SHINYPLIERS.COM
The term “steak” covers a lot of ground, from pork to fish to every imaginable slab of red meat. I’m going to assume you’re talking a straightforward piece of beef you’ve just lovingly barbecued. While the style of cut you choose makes a singular recommendation difficult, you can always rely on the old wine theory that says that lighter wines go best with lighter meats and heavier wines go best with heavier meats. No matter the weight of your steak, my palate is firmly on the side of choosing a red wine, because their tannic backbones (even in juicier fruit bombs) meet the meatiness in your mouth head-on. Even a full-bodied white doesn’t flex the same kind of muscle when confronting a forkfull of beef. You did ask my “favourite,” so I’ll go with a wine made with Cabernet Sauvignon. Why? Well, when it comes to a rich, textured wine, it’s hard to beat a good (or even average) Cabernet. The grape is also one of the few that travels really well, keeping much of its atypical personality no matter where it’s grown. That means you can rely on it to provide a recognizable variation of its meat-friendly, dark-berry fruit no matter where its juice is squeezed. In second place is an Argentinean Malbec. It took a trip to Buenos Aires for me to officially acknowledge that Malbec may be to meat what steak is to grilling — a near-perfect pairing. In Argentina, barbecuing red meat is a few prayers short of a religion, and you’ll find that the marriage of a Mendoza-made Malbec’s spicier side with your main course will be, in a word, heavenly.
I was thinking about buying a set of those wine chilling cubes. Do they really work?
I don’t know about you, but my refrigerator and I have a pretty good relationship. It offers me access to its chilly interior and I’m willing to give it 30 minutes or so to make my beverages cool enough to drink without kicking a dent in its door out of thirst frustration. While I’m well aware that the 21st century is a busy place to be a wine lover, the need for the artificial insemination of cold
× Ask your questions at bonvivant@quench.me
cubes or alternative cooling sources into your vino seems like a cop-out to this wine guy. But, as usual, I digress. What you’re talking about are those chubby, poker-chipsized discs that are filled with what I’m assuming is H2O. The idea is to store them in your freezer, dropping a couple into your stemware to make your fresh-off-the-shelf white, red or rosé palatable. Though using old-school ice cubes would do the job, as they melt they will water down your wine, which isn’t cool. Do they work? The answer is, they do; surprisingly well and quickly to boot. In your honour, I combined two of the thingamajigs with a room-temperature Pinot Grigio and was all set to imbibe in less than five minutes. Even better, they kept the wine from warming right up to the last drop. Scotch fans, who are notoriously divided regarding the addition of ice to their chosen tipple, have specific ones built for their harder liquor. Made from soapstone, they look like, well, small rocks, which perform the same duty as their plastic cousins while looking hipper floating in the booze, because scotch aficionados are all about looking hip. Of course, while you can you live without either version, if time just isn’t on your side they’ll diminish the time it takes to get your lips to glass. × MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 21
Ramp it up by Rosemary Mantini
SPRING CAN BE SO CRUEL. It brings with it such hope of warmth and colour only to wallop us — usually on the Victoria Day long weekend — with frigid temperatures and snow. No worries, though. It’s just winter’s last gasp, right? Warm temperatures will be settling in soon enough. Anyway, I’ve already hauled out the barbecue, table and chairs from the dusty, dark recesses of the garage. I’m ready for some patio living. A trip to the market, packed with the colours and flavours of spring, is what I’m craving right about now. Spring harvest fruits and vegetables are so much sweeter now than they will be through the summer. Some, like asparagus, can be nearly impossible to find later on. The concept of seasonality is tricky now, when everything seems to be shipped in from somewhere. As a simple guide, keep an eye out for cherries, strawberries, rhubarb, beans, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, cucumber, lettuce, mushrooms, onions, parsnips, peas, peppers, radishes, spinach and sweet potatoes. Farmers’ market websites offer a goldmine of information on what’s available. After a winter of squash, squash and more squash, beholding the bounty of spring can be overwhelming. How does one get the best from all of this fresh, local produce? Enter Victor Bongo and Therese DeGrace, two great chefs with the expertise to make everything mouth-wateringly good. Victor Bongo is a multi-award-winning chef, originally hailing from Africa, who now calls Vancouver home. He explains, “every time I walk in the market, I always have a big smile on my face as I stare at all the fresh colourful fruits and vegetables and the aroma coming from it is heaven to me. I can always depend on the farmers’ market to introduce me to new varieties of fruits and vegetables. Beets are my favourites and are available 22 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
for much of the year. But the first spring beets, with their fresh greens still attached by deep rosy stems, are more tender than their larger brethren that are harvested later in the year. Spring beets are a revelation because they have a different sweetness than fall beets. They are grown from the same varieties, but their sweetness is fresher and cleaner. It’s hard to put specifically into words. The golden beets taste sweeter when raw than the red beets, but they have a slight background bitterness that the red beets lack. Cooking eliminates that bitterness. Every time I see spring beets it inspires me to get extra creative because there’s so much you can do with them. The young baby spring beets can simply be thinly sliced and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, salt and freshly ground pepper and will taste amazing.” Meyer lemons, blood oranges, grapefruit and limes refresh the palate after a winter’s worth of heavier dishes. Meyer lemons, now widely available, “have a sweeter and more floral taste than other lemons and can even have a slightly orange tint adding an unexpected flavour and visual boost to nearly any dish,” Bongo adds. “This recipe has a mix of everything from my favourite fruit, blood orange and Meyer lemons that add that nice touch to any recipe.”
ORANGE INFUSED BEETS AND GOAT CHEESE SALAD WITH PISTACHIO NUTS AND HONEY MEYER LEMON VINAIGRETTE HONEY MEYER LEMON VINAIGRETTE
2 1 3 1
tbsp shallots, chopped tbsp parsley, chopped tbsp freshly squeezed Meyer lemon juice tsp Dijon mustard
1/4 cup honey 1 cup olive oil Salt and pepper, to taste Blend all ingredients in a food blender except the olive oil. Slowly add the olive oil to create an emulsion. Season with salt and pepper to taste. FOR THE BEET SALAD
4 4 2 1 2 1 180 1/4 1/4 1 90
medium red beets medium golden beets l water l blood orange juice tbsp salt blood orange zest g goat cheese, crumbled cup mixed peppers — red, yellow, green, diced cup pistachio nuts, chopped cup honey lemon vinaigrette g micro greens
1. Place the 4 red and golden beets, water, orange juice and two tablespoons salt in a heavy large pot, and bring to a boil. Simmer on low heat for about an hour or till the beets are tender. 2. Drain beets and cool them down in ice water to stop from over-cooking. After beets have cooled, peel off the skin with hands or knife. Slice beets 1/4-inch rounds. Place them in a large bowl; add orange zest and 1/3 cup of the honey lemon vinaigrette. PLATING: Using 6 plates, arrange the sliced beets overlapping each other, mixing the two different colours. Top it of with micro greens, goat cheese, pistachio nuts and diced mixed peppers. Using a spoon, drizzle the honey lemon vinaigrette on it. MATCH: Serve immediately with a glass of Moscato d’Asti. THERESE DEGRACE IS THE EXECUTIVE CHEF AT THE GOOD EARTH FOOD AND WINE COMPANY IN NIAGARA.
Her love of food has taken her to many delicious locales, cooking and learning under the tutelage of world-renowned chefs throughout Canada and Europe. The food she creates to pair with The Good Earth’s wine showcases her commitment to all things local. Here in Ontario, however, we don’t always have a wide variety of fruits and vegetables available in springtime. So, DeGrace has developed a unique cooking style that marries the delicate flavours of the season with international products. “Springtime here is a luminous time of year,” she says. “We utilize many of the edible flowers and herbs available in our gardens year ‘round and the kitchen brigade gets super excited about seeing the first asparagus or herbs emerge from the ground.” DeGrace gives us her favourite seasonal recipe featuring her springtime picks: asparagus and fresh peas.
NIAGARA SPRING FALAFEL SALAD SERVES 6 This dish is vegan and contains no gluten. FOR THE HUMMUS
2 cups chickpeas, cooked 1/2 tsp each sumac, cumin, ground coriander and paprika
1/3 1/3 1/3 1/4
cup parsley, minced cup ramps, sautéed and puréed Zest and juice of one lemon cup olive oil cup water
Purée to desired consistency. FOR THE CHUNKY TABBOULEH SALAD
3 1 1/3 1 1 1/3
vine-ripened tomatoes, chopped English cucumber, chopped cup parsley, torn cup pickled vegetables and mini beets cup fresh peas Handful torn mint Zest and juice of one lemon cup olive oil Salt and pepper, to taste
Toss well. FOR THE TAHINI DRESSING
1/2 1/2 1 1/3 1/3 1/2
cup water cup apple cider vinegar tsp cumin cup tahini cup vegetable oil Juice of 2 lemons cup parsley
Combine all ingredients and blend until smooth. FOR THE FALAFEL
4 2 1/2 1/2 1/2
cups chickpeas, cooked garlic cloves, crushed cup quinoa, cooked cup chickpea flour (plus extra if needed) tsp sumac Zest of 1 lemon Salt and pepper, to taste
1. Combine all ingredients; if mixture seems too sticky adjust with chickpea flour. Mixture should be the same consistency of chocolate chip cookies. 2. Form mixture into 1.5-inch disks, about 1-inch thick. 3. Using a heavy bottomed pot or deep fryer, bring oil to temperature. (Use a thermometer if you are using a heavy bottom pot and make sure you are using at least 6 inches of oil.) 4. Fry falafel until dark brown (about 2 minutes on either side). Serve warm. ASSEMBLING FALAFEL SALAD: 1. Arrange hummus and make a small indentation. Fill crevice with olive oil or paprika oil. 2. Arrange salad next to hummus, arrange warm falafel on top of salad. 3. Drizzle with tahini dressing. MATCH: Serve with a chilled glass of Sauvignon Blanc. × MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 23
Being balanced by Lisa Hoekstra
Acidity: many who have attended a wine tasting or read tasting notes have heard this term thrown around. Good acidity, bad acidity, acidity on the finish, on the mid-palate. It has balanced acidity, too much or too little. But what is it really?
24 Ă— @QUENCH_MAG Ă— MAY/JUNE 2015
“IT’S THE LEVEL OF TARTNESS IN A WINE,” explains Master of Wine Amy
Christine, a wholesale representative for Southern California’s branch of Kermit Lynch, and co-owner of Black Sheep Finds in Lompoc, California. “The more your mouth is watering, the higher the acid.” This tasting term applies to the sensation a wine leaves in your mouth. The source of this sensation — its intensity, flavour and type — are naturally occurring wine acids that play a large role in winemaking. “There are three main acids [in grapes],” says Dave Carson, winemaker at See Ya Later Ranch in Okanagan Falls, British Columbia. “Tartaric acid, malic acid and citric acid. But citric acid is in a really small amount … it’s more about the tartaric and the malic, and how they interact together.” “Tartaric acid is unique to wine,” mentions Paul Pender, winemaker for Okanagan Falls’s Tawse Winery. “I think there is only one other fruit that has it.” Each acid plays a different role in the winemaking game. Tartaric acid is a background player, supporting and stabilizing the wine as it evolves. “Tartaric preserves the stability of the wine,” says Pender. “If the pH is under three-point-five, the sulphur you add is a preservative; over, it is no longer effective.” “On its own, tartaric acid doesn’t affect the colour. But it affects the pH — if it’s a high pH, the red wine tends to be less stable, less red and more brown,” says Carson. “High pH can also usually affect age-ability. Wine with low acid and high pH can be described as flat and flabby.” The pH levels don’t discriminate; they can be changed by malic acid as well. “Malic acid is not stable,” says Christine. “Following alcoholic fermentation, malic acid will naturally convert to lactic acid, softening and lowering the acidity and raising the pH.” The instability of malic acid causes instability in the wine that can either be neutralized through malolactic fermentation or controlled to create a specific flavour profile. “Malic is a harsher acid, often described as a green apple acid,” says Carson. “For instance, if you have a very cold year and a high malic acid concentration, you might have a wine that comes off very hard in the finish.”
Even though malic acid is more prominent on the palate, it has less influence on the structure. “Tartaric is a strong acid and malic is a weak one,” says Pender. “The other [important] acid is lactic acid.” If the winemaker doesn’t want to have the harsh, green apple flavour in their wine, they will use malolactic fermentation to convert malic acid into lactic acid. “It’s actually a bacterial conversion of malic to lactic acid,” corrects Carson. “People call it fermentation, but that’s incorrect.” This conversion softens the acidity of a wine, taking advantage of the smooth lactic acid to create a different flavour profile in the final wine. Lactic acid does not naturally occur in wine grapes. It is a by-product of the fermentation process and is used at the winemaker’s discretion, much like all of the other acids. “Malic and tartaric are the primary acids present in grapes,” says Christine. “Tartaric and lactic are the primary acids found in a finish wine, assuming it has gone through malolactic fermentation.” “Lactic acid is a lot softer of an acid,” mentions Carson. “As the conversion continues, the total acidity of the wine goes down. It becomes softer and tends to have more of a mouthfeel.” This is why red wines go through malolactic fermentation — because red wines should be soft and round, rather than sharp and tart. THE WINEMAKER CAN CONTROL THE LACTIC ACID levels by choosing
whether or not to use malolactic fermentation, but controlling the levels of tartaric and malic acid in the wine is a bit more complicated. Both are naturally occurring, which means that winemakers have to pay careful attention to the vines, climate and temperature. “The level of acidity in a wine is related to climate,” says Christine. “Different regions and climates naturally produce different styles of wine, some of which are stylistically more acidic than others.” In fact, temperature and climate determine the rate at which the acid levels in the grape change. “Tartaric acid is predominant [in the grape],” Carson explains. “It’s at a fixed level. As the grape ripens, the berry gets larger in volume. Tartaric acid goes down … because of dilution — more things come MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 25
Master of Wine Amy Christine lists some of the tools a winemaker can use to control acidity, “Blending, watering back (where legal), cold stabilization (where tartaric acid precipitates out of the wine), malolactic fermentation, addition of calcium carbonate and ion exchange.”
in.” At a fixed level, it means that when the grape berries are small, they are highly acidic because there is no juice or liquid to mix with the tartaric acid. But as they ripen — grow in size and increase in juiciness — the tartaric acid is diluted, combined with the natural sugars, other acids and the juice of the berry. Malic acid is also prey to dilution, but what makes it less prominent than tartaric is that it escapes the berries through respiration — evaporation through the skin of the berries. “This is mostly related to weather,” says Carson. “Mostly the nights. If you have very warm nights, you’ll get lower malic levels because when it’s warm, the respiration levels increase. If you have very cold nights, higher levels of malic.” The respiration and ripening of the grape changes the ratio of the acids within the berries themselves. “Malic acid is high prior to véraison, but as grapes ripen, malic acid will respire and tartaric, the more stable acid, will become predominant,” says Christine. “Cooler climates, like those in Mosel, Germany, produce grapes with higher levels of malic acid due to the cooler temperatures and low rates of respiration.” “Malic acids can be virtually nothing if you have a really, really hot year,” states Carson. “It gets used up in the respiration.” The two things winemakers need to watch (among the million other things they are taking into account) are ripening speed and temperature levels. This can be tricky, even for very experienced 26 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
winemakers. Winemakers monitor the vineyards to determine when to harvest, which is one of the only ways to control the acid levels. “What you do in the vineyard is one of the most important things you can do in winemaking,” says Pender. “If I have a hotter year, I’m going to pick earlier. In 2012, we picked our Chardonnays in August, because it was so hot. In 2014 it was cool, so we picked the first week of October.” “This year for our wines at Black Sheep Finds, we based most of our picking decisions on the pH of the grapes,” says Christine, giving her unique experience from a warm climate winery. “We want to retain natural acidity, so we are in general picking earlier in order to achieve better fruit to acid balance.” Unfortunately, sometimes the harvest date isn’t enough. During crushing or fermentation, the winemaker notices that there is too much or too little acidity. The previously mentioned malolactic fermentation is one way to reduce the acidity but there are a few other techniques winemakers can use to fix a wine’s acidity. “Blending, watering back (where legal), cold stabilization (where tartaric acid precipitates out of the wine), malolactic fermentation, addition of calcium carbonate, ion exchange,” Christine lists. If the wine has too much acidity, but they don’t want to remove the malic acid, they balance with sugar. “You can balance acids off with residual sugar,” says Car-
son. “You can add sugar back by sweet reserves or by stop-fermenting wines, where you remove the yeast or inhibit its ability to convert sugars.” THERE ARE RISKS TO ADDING SUGAR THOUGH. “If you have high acidity
and try to balance with too much sugar, you can get ‘sweet and sour’,” warns Carson. “Where you have a wine that comes off as sweet, then there’s a hole in the middle and then it’s sour.” There are fewer options for winemakers if acidity is low. “Blending and acid additions prior to fermentation,” states Christine. Blending works if you have a batch that is high in acidity and a batch that is low. But when there is no batch available to balance the wine, that’s where acid additions come into play. “Typically, 99 percent of the time when winemakers add acid, they add tartaric,” Pender states. “When aging wine in a barrel, the tartaric acid precipitates out and forms a crystal. Winemakers buy bags of tartaric acid … the trick is to add enough to balance the pH and not make it taste like you’ve added acid.” “People add tartaric acid right at the crushing, to adjust the pH so the wine is microbially safe,” adds Carson. “The sooner you make any additions to wine, the better the wine can mellow.” Acid additions don’t happen very often, with winemakers working hard to ensure it isn’t needed. “We are winemakers and
want to make it as natural as possible,” says Pender. “But in the end, we want to make a wine that is safe during its lifespan.” Knowing how acidity comes into play and which acids are present isn’t enough to truly understand “acidity.” What matters to the consumer — i.e. you and me — is how the acidity appears in the final product. “Acid plays a couple different roles — a sensory role, the taste, the sharpness of the palate,” explains Carson. “It also plays a role in the juice and wine from a micro stability perspective. The lower the pH, the less the microbes want to live in it.” Wine acids provide the final product not only with the tartness but also colour, structure and the ability to age without deteriorating. “We can use the existing acids in the wine to influence the flavours,” says Pender. “The acid in the wine gives it its longevity and freshness.” “Malic acid has the green apple. Sharp,” says Carson. “Tartaric is a less harsh apple than malic … but not as mellow as lactic acid; it does provide flavour characteristics.” Sensing the acidity in a wine is about using more than just your taste buds. “If it’s a red wine, you can look at the colour and taste it,” says Pender. “Trust your palate. Taste if it’s bright and crisp and has that nice sharpness you get with acidity. Or is it softer, flabbier and more on the sweet side.” “You pick it up at the middle to the end, mid-taste would be the best way to say it,” says Carson. “It’s a sharpness. You will taste it throughout, but in a white wine it’s
more on the end and a red, it’s more in the middle. It’s a lot where the wine actually hits your tongue.” There are some wines that lend themselves to the crisp, sharp, freshness that comes from higher acid levels. “I like high acid in my Rieslings, then I balance them with sugar,” says Pender. “I often don’t allow malolactic fermentation in Chardonnay because I like a lot of acidity … I want them to be crisp and fresh, with the green apple taste.” “The secret to great balance in Champagne is adjusting the sugar to match the wine’s acidity,” Christine chimes in. “Riesling has residual sugar and the high acidity helps balance the residual sugar, making the wine appear perceptibly less sweet.” However, the final result shouldn’t scream “acidic” — it should be balanced and enjoyable. “At See Ya Later Ranch, all of the reds go through malolactic fermentation,” says Carson. “For the whites, I don’t really talk about the acids and sugars separately. I don’t really focus on acidity in wine … it’s about finding that balance.” Next time you open a bottle of wine, try to find that sensation on the tongue, mid-palate or finish. Maybe it’ll be tart, crisp and fresh. Maybe it’ll taste like green apple. Perhaps you’ll get a bit of butter or a hint of smooth cream. Whatever you sense, now you’ll know the term to describe it … and perhaps impress a few friends by identifying which acid was used. ×
Acidity in Grape Varieties
Master of Wine Amy Christine gives us a rough guide on the acidity levels in wine. “I’m more the type to say drink what you want and eat what you want,” says Christine. “That said, high acid wines pair great with creamy foods. Acid cuts through fat and can balance the richness of a dish.” Experiment by comparing the cold climate version with its warm climate counterpart to see if you can tell how the acidity changes by region.
HIGH ACID
Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo
MODERATE TO HIGH ACID
Chardonnay, Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet
LOW
Viognier, Roussanne, Tempranillo (though this varies a lot)
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your wine deserves the very best home 416.285.6604 RosehillWineCellars.com MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 27
LOW PROOF by Sarah Parniak
THE 21ST CENTURY COCKTAIL REBOOT WAS KICK-STARTED BY DRINKS BROWN, STIFF AND STIRRED. In the past
decade, straight, pre-prohibition era cocktails like the Sazerac and Old Fashioned (and other all-booze contemporaries) came to define sophisticated drinking. But while a three-ounce Manhattan mixed with bonded rye is delicious, it’s anything but sustainable. After three in a row, all trimmings of class are out the window along with the powers of recollection and a capacity for intelligent conversation; the black out looms. Now, to the applause of a million livers and lovers of lucid encounters, bars are offering guests tamer options that don’t skimp on flavour in the vein of, say, a light beer. Long drinks like the Aperol Spritz and Fino tonic, as well as stirred drinks based on aromatized and fortified wines are becoming fixtures on cocktail lists and goto’s in the mixological arsenal of any bartender worth their chops. Though moderate cocktails, recently coined “shims” or “suppressors,” are enjoying a moment, they’re more than a passing fad. Simon Ogden, bar manager at Veneto Tapa Lounge in Victoria, BC, has been offering softer options for as long as he can recall; it’s just another way of committing to the profession and “one more way to show your guests you love them,” he says. “I think the re-commitment to executing professional bar programs has made doing bartender homework a necessity in a lot of bars and with that comes healthy curiosity, and experimentation with the whole pantry full of product, not to mention studying and building drinks from the craft’s canon,” Ogden explains. “Low proof drinks have been around as long as the cocktail’s recorded history, the Sherry Cobbler was one of the top sellers in its day and it’s listed in the oldest cocktail guide we have (Jerry Thomas’ Bartender’s Guide, 1862).” Besides the Sherry Cobbler (the low octane poster child), the Pimm’s Cup, Kir Royale and Champagne Cocktail, the Chrysanthemum, Bamboo — and dare we add, the White Wine Spritzer — have always played a supporting role (sometimes literally) in cocktail culture. During her research, Dinah Sanders, author of The Art of the Shim: Low Proof Drinks to Keep You Level (Sanders & Gratz) was surprised to find that there was no categorical term for low proof drinks that had been so popular throughout history. Sanders extends the term “shim,” meaning a small, levelling wedge in carpentry, to less-boozy beverages. Fittingly, she notes, shim is also restaurant-speak for the wedges used to balance out wobbly tables. Besides being an enjoyable way to drink without getting drunk, the great charm of shims (like all cocktails) lies in the mining and re-appropriation of history and tradition. 28 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
“I see shims partly as a reaction balancing out over-proof drinks and partly as the natural continuation of our recovery from the impact of Prohibition. While we regain lost ingredients and an appreciation for traditional techniques, so too are we rediscovering the full spectrum of drinking enjoyed by our ancestors,” she says. “As we recover from years of an immature approach to drinking — in which it was something naughty to be indulged in out of the public eye quickly and to excess — and return cocktails to their rightful place and size, it’s natural that we also revive those drinks which are comparable to a glass of wine in strength.”
Dinah Sanders
SPEAKING OF WINE, MODERATION IS BUILT IN TO THE VERY FOUNDATION OF THE EUROPEAN APPROACH TO DRINKING, WHICH IS PRIMARILY A SOCIAL EXPERIENCE. The French, Italians and Spaniards partake daily (and in
some cases, all day), but what they keep in their cups makes all the difference; apéritifs, amari and sherry are sipped alongside meals and during intermittent lulls in boisterous conversation. In North America, Europe and beyond, the pinnacle of a really great bar has less to do with what you’re drinking than who you’re drinking with; conviviality is central to the drinking experience and it’s far easier to stay socially present if you’re sipping shims instead of pounding Martinis. “I began seeking out serious low proof drinks as a way to still enjoy the pleasure of the cocktail experience without knocking myself out too early,” explains Sanders. “Lower proof is a great method of enjoying more social time.”
Mike Webster, co-owner and barman at Toronto’s Bar Raval, agrees: “People are at their best when they’re on their first and second drink,” he said. “You miss a lot of beautiful moments because the haze of alcohol is setting in. Low octane drinks allow you to have a greater reverence for your experience.” Opened early this year, Spanish-influenced Raval focuses on aromatized and fortified wines, and offers a daily aperitivo hour from 11 am onwards. “Sherry and vermouth have so much more going on than most spirits,” says Raval co-owner and barman Robin Goodfellow. “They’re weaker but more complex, and they definitely pack more flavour and value.” Most of the offerings on Raval’s alto vaso (tall drinks) menu are two ounces, $10 or under and less than 40 percent abv, simplifying good drinking without negative repercussions.
ROSE FIZZ
Courtesy of Robin Goodfellow and Michael Webster, co-owners of Bar Raval, Toronto, Ontario.
2 oz croft pale cream sherry 3/4 oz fresh lemon juice 1 bar spoon rich simple syrup (2:1 sugar to water) 1 egg white
Dry shake, shake again with ice and fine strain up into 8 oz Collins glass. Top with rosé cava and garnish with Peychauds’ bitters.
JOHN CAMERON MITCHELL
Recipe courtesy of Andrew Bohrer via Dinah Sanders. “This is my favourite recipe, which I have discovered since writing the book,” says Dinah Sanders, author of The Art of the Shim of west coast bartender Andrew Bohrer’s recipe. “It’s got the complex satisfaction of a traditional gentlemen’s club whisky drink, while still being a shim. Even better, it’s easy to make.”
Simon Ogden
Responsible drinking has given heightened visibility to more temperate tipples. Suppressors (both the term and the concept) were pushed by Atlanta bartenders in order to safely cater to a predominantly wheeled clientele. Well-mixed drinks based on a spicy vermouth or a nutty amontillado rather than a feisty whiskey are the ideal compromise for cocktail enthusiasts who have small children and early morning meetings to consider. “What is creating a broad appeal in contemporary drinking culture for rediscovering these classics and creating new low proof drinks is the long-overdue relinquishment of the silly notion that people only drink to get drunk,” Sanders notes. “That’s no more true than the idea that people eat to get over-stuffed. As we see with food culture today, we are stimulated by flavour, history, creativity and presentation. That stimulation, people have also rediscovered, does not march in lockstep with the percentage of alcohol in a drink. Just as chefs have re-awoken people’s palates with fresher, local ingredients, so too are bartenders with things like fresh vermouth and sherry, and with the classic host’s aim in how to give their guests a great evening no matter the proof they are drinking.” Now that shims and suppressors are being taken seriously again, it’s widely understood that masterfully mixed, interesting cocktails don’t have to pack a sucker punch. Waking up clearheaded and free of regrets after an evening of delicious drinks presents a whole new world to cocktail lovers — one where a little less alcohol is way more fun. ×
2 oz Carpano Antica Formula sweet vermouth 1/4 oz Ardbeg 10-year single malt scotch 1 dash Regan’s orange bitters
Build over a large ice cube in a chilled Old Fashioned glass. Stir, sit back, sip and enjoy.
THE JOKER
Courtesy of Simon Ogden, bar manager at Veneto Tapa Bar, Victoria, BC.
2 oz Martini Bianco vermouth 1/2 oz apricot liqueur like Giffard Abricot du Roussillon 1/2 oz fresh lemon juice 3 dashes Peychaud’s bitters 3/4 oz egg whites
Shake all ingredients vigorously without ice to froth the egg whites. Add ice and shake again to chill and aerate. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and top with a splash of sparkling wine like Prosecco.
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truly worth it by Michael Pinkus
When you bring up the topic of Bordeaux, dollar signs start to dance around in many people’s heads … and why not? This fabled region has a cache about it that transcends the truth. To a vast many, Bordeaux is wine, it’s the “birthplace” of the blend, the be-all and end-all when it comes to the pressed and fermented grape; and it is seen as a place where the good ones are way out of your price range. There are lots of stories these days about Bordeaux being an investment and that puts many people off making a purchase or even investigating the section at their local wine store; they hear about the constantly rising prices of these wines and there’s just no budget for it. Which then demands the question: who has the kind of cash to buy Bordeaux anymore? The simple answer is: you do. You don’t have to break the bank to enjoy a good wine from this region; sure if you want to line the cellar walls with first, second and third growths then you will pay a pretty penny, but there are plenty of great values to be had. You just need to know what to look for. And that’s where I’ll swoop in to help. Is a $300 Bordeaux worth it? Sure, if you’re laying it down for the next 10 to 20 years. Studies have shown that wine is one of the soundest investments you can make these days. It even outperforms many blue chip stocks and mutual funds over the long haul. But if you’re like me, a nice $30 Bordeaux sounds like a much better investment, especially if it delivers flavour without breaking the bank. Something you could happily put on the table and has the cache, without the highly inflated price tag. Bordeaux is still making great wine at all price points, but especially at the value end of the spectrum, if you just know where to look. I want Bordeaux that I can age but also drink and not worry that I won’t make my mortgage payment that month. So, if you’re looking to grab a few bottles that are good for both the cellar (short term) and the table read on ... 30 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
CHÂTEAU DE MONBADON 2010 ($18.95) Well-priced and well-structured with nice firm tannins. There’s even a degree of elegance behind it all with its deep dark fruit and nice spice.
CHÂTEAU HAUT-SURGET 2012 ($27.95) Not sure I was rightly ready for the experience this wine offered, but what a treat with its coffee, mocha and ripe, dark fruit.
CHÂTEAU BEAUSEJOUR HOSTENS 2010 ($22.95) Grippy, tongue-drying tannins and massive brooding dark fruit. This one needs some time, but it’s heading in the right direction.
CHÂTEAU FLOREAL LAGUENS 2010 ($16.95) Not all Bordeaux need be big, ballsy and tannic. Fact is, this one is light and easy with its plum, blackberry and mineral; a good quaffing version of Bordeaux.
CHÂTEAU LA GORRE 2010 ($25.95) The big year of 2010 has spawned this blackberry and cassis number loaded with plenty of tannins and spice.
CHÂTEAU LILIAN LADOUYS 2010 ($31.85) Just a touch over $30, this wine comes across as New World with its smooth dark fruit and supple, almost creamy, core. Very pleasant.
CHÂTEAU MAGNOL 2010 ($25.95) I hate to get ahead of things, but the finish on this wine is the most memorable part of it. Before you get there, you’ll find smoky blackberry, cinnamon and vanilla.
Philippe Bassereau from De La Grave
Château Magnol’s Laurent Prada CHÂTEAU PINDEFLEURS 2010 ($25.85) Creamy coffee notes mix with smoke, black tea and tannins that bite back at the tongue.
CHÂTEAU RAHOUL 2010 ($31.95) The balance here is amazing and inviting: dark smoke and coffee with hints of chocolate, mocha, blackberry and a fair bit of tannin grip.
CHÂTEAU BELLE-VUE 2010 ($31.85) The dark berries in here mix with mocha, pencil shavings and toasty tannins.
CHÂTEAU VIEUX CHEVROL 2010, LALANDE DE POMEROL ($29.95) Mocha and black cherry lead things off with a smoothness and sexiness on the palate that includes coffee bean and anise.
Château Belle-Vue’s Mulliez family
CHÂTEAU CISSAC 2010 ($29.95) This one seems to hit all the right notes and rounds the flavour bases with ease, from coffee bean and vanilla to cassis and plum.
CHÂTEAU DE LA GRAVE CARACTERE 2010 ($19.95) Another under $30 Bordeaux that shows off an exceptional finish: cassis, smoked-plum and black cherry; this one has value written all over it, in fact I’d go as far as saying “underpriced.”
CHÂTEAU LAMARTINE 2010 ($16.95)
CHÂTEAU DE RICAUD 2010, RESERVE DES COTEAUX ($18.95)
CHÂTEAU LE BOURDIEU 2010 ($20.95)
If you expect under $20 Bordeaux to underperform, think again: smoky dark fruit, plum and dark cherry with a big spiced finish.
CHÂTEAU LA CROIX CHANTECAILLE 2009 ($29.95) There’s a pleasant smoothness and approachability here with plenty of dark fruit and herbal notes, and that’s just for starters.
Mocha, herbal, touch of cherry, new leather all supported by the lovely and lengthy finish.
A pleasant blend of anise and redcurrant on the nose is replaced on the palate by cassis and seductive spice.
CHÂTEAU TEYSSIER 2009 ($23.95) Well balanced from nose to tongue: smoky-mocha with dark fruit that plays possum from the very beginning but it’s coming; age this a few years or definitely decant for right now enjoyment. × MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 31
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What makes a bottling into a “cult wine?” by Tim Pawsey IT’S AN INTERESTING QUESTION. Can a wine’s
03 01 Black Hill's Graham Pierce crafted Nota Bene to have a personality of plum and black fruits; 02 John Skinner's Painted Rock Red Icon picked up an award in its inaugural release; 03 Laughing Stock's David Enns spent considerable time in Bordeaux while developing his house style 32 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
status be proclaimed or must it be won? The unveiling of One Faith Vineyards’ inaugural release raised some probing questions, such as: Is it appropriate to use the term “First Growth” outside of Bordeaux (see page 33 of the April 2015 issue)? And can you really make such a claim without any serious track record? While there’s no denying that little expense or expertise was spared in One Faith’s production, is it really advantageous to claim the crown as a region’s most expensive wine ever introduced? A little bit of cross-cultural understanding helps here. One Faith is aimed (at least in part) at the Asian buyer, sometimes driven by prestige. As an example, when Champagne Charles Heidsieck was introduced to Hong Kong (a few decades ago) the importer asked around for the best strategy. The advice was straightforward: “Find the most expensive competitor and add 10 percent.” In a market where only the best will do, especially in matters of “saving face,” success quickly followed. Is the Okanagan truly ready for a $165 cachet wine? Only time, and what’s in the bottle, will tell. Sumac Ridge owner Harry McWatters spearheaded the adoption of the Meritage movement in Canada. He also lays claim to having released the Okanagan’s most expensive table wine, the aptly named Pinnacle 1997, which held on to that top price spot for many years to come. (It was later discontinued after the winery was purchased by Constellation brands.)
In the meantime, several so-called Bordeaux-inspired Okanagan wines have already achieved their own cachet. They’re the kinds of wines that collectors snap up almost as soon as they’re released. In the latter part of the 1990s, McWatters’ aspirations were emulated by Mission Hill proprietor Anthony Von Mandl, who was also among the first to implement a program specifically to develop a luxury tier, in Oculus. Von Mandl and winemaker John Simes’ initial release (also 1997) blended 50 percent Cabernet Sauvignon with 45 percent Merlot and five percent Cab Franc — purchasing grapes from Black Sage Road and Osoyoos. Over the last decade, the grapes have been virtually all estate sourced; and the quality in better vintages continues to evolve, as does the blend, which now tends to use less Cabernet Sauvignon and more Cabernet Franc. It’s tough to find. Rare vertical tastings do occur, but Oculus now sells for over $100 and past vintages for more. In short, it appears there’s no question that Von Mandl and Simes (with an assist from the renowned Michel Rolland) have achieved what they set out to do. While critics once questioned the age-ability of southern Okanagan reds, this wine has helped to set the record straight: Properly handled, some BC wines can fare well in the bottle for several years, towards a couple of decades and possibly longer. Oculus, well beyond its hefty “trophy” styled bottle, has no problem defending its cachet with a track record that’s hard to dispute. Another indisputable icon, Nota Bene was the wine that put Black Hills firmly on the map. Not only that, it singlehandedly ignited a process that propelled the original winery from its humble Quonset hut beginnings to today’s elaborate reception centre and one of the valley’s most polished visitor experiences. Having Jason Priestley on the team doesn’t hurt, either. Arguably of all the Okanagan iconoclasts — aspiring, real or imagined — no other wine has captured such populist appeal that spans everyone from seasoned collector to enthusiastic amateur. Much of that appreciation flows from Nota Bene’s consistency in style and usually generously ripe character. Even in
lesser years, the wine manages to display a now familiar personality driven by plum and black fruit notes wrapped in anise and sage with a generous mouthfeel. Another bold project come to fruition, Osoyoos had its beginnings in 1998 when Vincor, then under the leadership of Don Triggs, entered into a partnership with France’s Groupe Taillan of Bordeaux. The hope was to plumb the considerable depth of the French experience in order to bring to market an Okanagan wine with discernible Bordeaux style, if not pedigree. As Triggs announced the project, he stood overlooking a newly planted vineyard — significantly, on the valley’s west side, south of Oliver — and introduced winemaker Pascal Madevon. Triggs and Vincor were convinced that the 32 hectares they had set aside on the slope above Osoyoos Lake enjoyed all the elements that could combine to produce a truly unique wine. The terroir of clay, rock, sand and gravelly loam was considered more complex than some, with an exposure given to somewhat more moderate temperatures combined with good diurnals from the proximity of the lake. VINCOR’S SECRET WEAPON TURNED OUT TO BE MADEVON, who was seduced
by the beauty of the Okanagan on his first visit but was also convinced by what he perceived as being ideal terroir. The challenge of bringing an Old World style to the Okanagan was significant, particularly in producing wines for aging rather than immediate consumption. But while the project leaders didn’t shy away from a degree of hyperbole — calling their wine “Le Grand Vin” — even they didn’t invoke the uniquely Bordelaise notion of “First Growth.” Osoyoos Larose took time to work its way into consumers’ hearts and palates — soon finding its way onto better wine lists as a flagship wine for the Okanagan. Madevon’s blend quickly evolved from just three varieties in the inaugural 2001 vintage (66 percent Merlot, 25 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, nine percent Cabernet Franc) to include small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Madevon has since moved on to reconnect with Don Triggs at Culmina Family Estate Winery, the spectacular new
project undertaken with his wife Elaine and their daughter Sara. After the sale of Vincor and of their own Delaine Estate in Niagara, the Triggs family looked for an ideal vineyard site on which to pursue what Don Triggs likes to call his legacy. Hypothesis, Madevon’s blend of Cabernet Franc (40 percent), Merlot (36 percent) and Cabernet Sauvignon (24 percent), seems already destined to become an icon, with hallmark cassis and dusty hints followed by a full-bodied palate of red and black fruit, leather notes with layers of spice and minerality, wrapped in juicy acidity. The 2011 scored impressive ratings across the board. Given the excellence of subsequent vintages, it would appear that the groundwork has been indeed well laid. Now in its 10th vintage, Laughing Stock Portfolio (45 percent Merlot, 25 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 22 percent Cabernet Franc, seven percent Malbec and one percent Petit Verdot) can be justly crowned as another winner with a well-thoughtout Bordeaux-inspired heritage. Laughing Stock co-owner David Enns spent considerable time in Bordeaux during the winery’s formative stage, developing a plan for a premium house style that would emulate the region’s Old World structure and age-ability. Recent vertical tastings suggest the wine has plenty of life in the bottle, with the current vintage (2012) recommended to cellar up to 10 years. Much coveted, Painted Rock Red Icon is what the name intends right out of the gate, scooping a Lieutenant Governor’s Award for its inaugural 2007 release. Noted BC wine guru John Schreiner was quick to dub Red Icon a “cult winery.” Owners Trish and John Skinner work with noted Bordeaux consultant Alain Sutre to produce their blend (31 percent Malbec, 28 percent Merlot, 26 percent Cabernet Franc, 15 percent Petit Verdot). One of the first Okanagan principals to take his wines to China, Skinner now earmarks around 10 percent of the winery’s small production for that market. It would appear that his efforts have paid off: On some Shanghai lists, Red Icon commands prices as high as $950 — offering formidable proof that this wine may well indeed be truly iconic. × MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 33
Dreams Are Made Of This by Rick VanSickle
Sweet dreams are made of this Who am I to disagree I travel the world and the seven seas Everybody’s looking for something DON’T YOU JUST LOVE ANNIE LENNOX AND HER SULTRY/SOULFUL VOICE ON THIS CLASSIC EURYTHMICS TUNE? We can all relate, right? Aren’t we all looking for some-
thing? Some of us have even travelled the world searching for it. As Lennox says, it’s what dreams are made of. You can have your beautiful sunny beach in a tropical paradise; go ahead and imagine that big shiny red Ferrari; Leafs win Game Seven of the Stanley Cup final? It’s all yours, friends, dream on. My dream, the one that played out all those many nights, was finding myself standing on the hallowed ground of the greatest wine estate on the planet: Bordeaux’s Château Latour, in the heart of Pauillac, the holy grail of all things wine. Oh, how it haunted me; I ached so hard just being there, inside those historic walls, inhaling the raw, pungent fumes of Latour’s fermenting grapes, running my hands all over those spanking new French oak barrels. Then, on July 10, 2010, there I was at the iron gates of Latour. My dream was about to unfold right before my very eyes. Bit of a letdown, to be perfectly honest. First of all, that famous graphic on the label, you know, the Tower of St Lambert, the one with the majestic lion straddling the crown and watching ferociously over the vineyards? It’s not there anymore. Over 500 years after being burned to the ground during one of the many bloody conflicts in the region, it was replaced (less remarkably, I have to say) with a pigeon house in the 1620s, which is still there sitting off in the distance and not nearly as majestically. And no fair maidens bringing in basket after basket of handpicked plump, juicy grapes, either, like I imaged in my dreams. Damn. 34 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
Today, Château Latour, the working winery, is a sprawling, high-tech, modern-day wonder. It is spotless, efficient and spacious with computers controlling the temperature of 66 stainless steel tanks housing the various parcels of Latour fruit before they head to the barrel room for aging. It’s a bit of a buzz kill to finally get to Latour, one of the most famous estates in the world, and find everything so perfect and clean and, well, modern, until … (drum roll) … you taste the wine. Then it’s: Mind. Blowing. Time. The blend for the near-perfect 2009 vintage is 91.3 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot. There are predictions that this super-concentrated wine will survive 100 or more years in bottle. Think about that! 100 years. Certainly, based on colour alone, an opaque, inky, purple, it looks visually stunning. The aromas in the glass are jaw dropping — sweet currants, blackberry, cocoa, oak, layers of stony minerality, and spice. It is enthralling on the palate, even at this early stage from barrel, with a powerful frame, highly extracted black fruits, layered, textured and built on pure power. It is a monumental wine, to be sure, vying with the legendary 1961, 1982 and 1990 as the best ever. It is in Bordeaux, where only five grape varieties (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec) are permitted in red blends (Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc in white blends), that the style for full-bodied, powerful, long-lived wines was nurtured over centuries and desired by wine lovers the world over. There are few wine regions on Earth that don’t try to capture that same magic with their own version of the “Bordeaux-style” crafted from their unique climates. And why not?
MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 35
Paul Bosc helped to change the Niagara winemaking landscape
Marco Piccoli, winemaker at Jackson Triggs Niagara
Osoyoos Larose winemaker Mathieu Mercier
Bordeaux commands some of the highest prices in the world and has always been a benchmark for others to strive. If you can’t grow your grapes in Bordeaux, you can certainly grow the same grapes and use the same techniques as the Bordelais do and even add a twist or two of your own. It is 6,061 kilometres from Pauillac, in the heart of Bordeaux, to the St Davids Bench, in the heart of Niagara. One is a kindred spirit to the other. One barely knows the other exists. Paul Bosc, Algerian by birth, is an early pioneer of Niagara and co-founded Château des Charmes in Niagara-on-the-Lake in 1978 after arriving in Canada and working at his first job in Toronto at Château Gai. BOSC WAS CONVINCED the Canadian wine industry needed to reposition itself as a world-class winegrowing region and planted this country’s first commercial vineyard dedicated exclusively to European vitis vinifera grape varieties. He planted grapes that would make wine the world want to drink: Burgundy and Bordeaux were the inspiration. “And if it’s a Bordeaux blend well, you know, what is a Bordeaux blend? It’s something that tastes like one of the best Bordeaux. It’s simple,” Bosc says. “I wanted to make our wines in the classic style, what those wines should be. If you make a Bordeaux, it should taste like a Bordeaux.” I tasted four decades of Château des Charmes’s top red blends with Bosc and you can see the evolution of these wines in a style that closely resembles Bordeaux in how they age and develop over time.
36 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
STRATUS RED 2012, NIAGARA ($44)
TRIUS RED 2012, NIAGARA ($23)
The nose shows dense and highly aromatic blackcurrants, blackberries, plums, cassis and then oak spices, clove-cinnamon notes and charred vanilla toast. It is so lush, so long on the palate, yet it is defined by the richness and purity of the dark layered fruit that is bolstered by lavish spice, grippy tannins and a finessed feel through a long, velvety finish.
The nose shows an array of blackberry, spice, bramble, cocoa and currants already nicely integrated. It’s quite rich and concentrated on the palate and shows ripe black fruits, rousing spices. Just now coming into balance.
SOUTHBROOK VINEYARDS POETICA RED 2012, NIAGARA ($55)
A nose of dark fruits, earth tones, smoke, cedar, spice and integrated herbs. It’s gorgeous on the palate with dark cassis, currants, ripe cherry, spice, gritty tannins and long finish.
Such a wonderful and expressive nose of rich, meaty blackberry, cherry and a complex array of oak spices. This has structure and grip with lovely red and dark fruits that build on the palate and meld with an array of spices and firm tannins.
CULMINA HYPOTHESIS 2012, OKANAGAN ($44) Dark and rich in the glass with opulent aromas of blackcurrants, concentrated blackberries, red plums, an array of oak-enriched spices and a touch of eucalypt. It’s big and powerful on the palate and highlights persistent dark fruits, plush tannins and spices all delivered on a long, lush finish.
CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES EQUULEUS 2012, NIAGARA ($40) The nose shows rich cherry, a touch of raspberry followed by lavish cassis, concentrated blackcurrants and fine oak spices. It is smooth on the palate with generous fruit flavours, plush tannins and integrated spices that echo on the long finish.
DANIEL LENKO MERITAGE 2010, NIAGARA ($60) A beautiful nose of earthy blackcurrants, cassis and blackberry fruits that show concentration, and smothered in lavish oak spices and campfire smoke. The flavours on the palate range from cassis and currants to liquorice, anise and vanilla oak.
HIDDEN BENCH LA BRUNANTE 2011, NIAGARA ($75) A heady and rich nose of black cherry, cocoa, cigar-box cedar, currants, anise, black liquorice, graphite and a range of spices. This is a powerful wine on the palate with bold, assertive tannins, layers of cherry, currant and cassis fruit with spices and a touch of eucalypt on the finish.
INNISKILLIN DARK HORSE VINEYARD MERITAGE 2012, OKANAGAN ($35) The nose shows red plums, cherries, earth, cocoa and spice. It’s an elegant and finessed red on the palate with red fruits, mature plums, sage note and ripe, plush tannins through the long finish.
JACKSON-TRIGGS SUNROCK VINEYARD MERITAGE 2011, OKANAGAN ($35) There is fairly good concentration on the nose with black cherry, blackberries, blackcurrants, cloves, mocha and oak spice with subtle notes of thyme and sage. All that rich cherry and currant fruit is joined by interesting spice, tar, anise and rounded tannins through a long finish.
JACKSON-TRIGGS GRAND RESERVE RED MERITAGE 2012, NIAGARA ($25)
TINHORN CREEK OLDFIELD SERIES 2BENCH RED 2011, OKANAGAN ($30) The Cab Franc dominates on the nose with notes of raspberry, bramble, spice oak, earth, herbs and cherries. It’s a leaner style from the cooler 2011 growing season with edgy red fruits and a balanced attack of fruit, but shows elegance, finesse and poise through the finish.
WHITE BLENDS HIDDEN BENCH NUIT BLANCHE ROSOMEL VINEYARD 2012, NIAGARA ($40) There is grapefruit, melon, hay, baked apple, gunflint and layers of fine oak spice on the nose. On the palate, there is an integrated concentration of fruit with a lovely kiss of cream and spice, yet it is young and needs time to impart its greatest pleasures.
STRATUS WHITE 2012, NIAGARA ($38) The nose reveals a nice mélange of pear, subtle citrus and apple, with creamy-spicy notes that speak to the oak. The elegance of this blend shows on the palate, a taut and gracious white that reveals its layers slowly: the poached pear, the lanolin, the lemon meringue pie, the minerality and spice.
SOUTHBROOK WHIMSY! SÉMILLON 2013, NIAGARA ($35) A gorgeous nose of pear, baked apples, melon, beeswax, lanolin and spice. It has beautiful texture on the palate with creamy apple and pear, and just a touch of citrus zest on the finish.
TIME WHITE MERITAGE 2012, OKANAGAN ($25) A classic blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon with aromas of pear, melon, tropical fruits and gooseberry. It is made in an elegant style with nicely integrated oak and a long, vibrant finish.
STRATUS SÉMILLON 2011, NIAGARA ($38) A lovely nose of honeycomb, pear, guava, peach, grapefruit and spice. It shows perfect balance in the mouth with lanolin, peach, lemon, spice and brisk acidity. MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 37
Stratus Vineyards in Niagara-on-the-Lake, with its Frenchborn winemaker J.L. Groux, a native of the Loire Valley who studied winemaking at the University of Bordeaux, is a mirror of the Bordelais style. “The model of the winery was built on the Bordeaux philosophy,” explains Suzanne Janke, Stratus’s director of sales and hospitality. “We build the top wine and trickle down from there.” The top wines, Stratus Red and Stratus White, are constructed from the very best grapes and parcels produced at the winery. The red is usually a classic blend of Bordeaux grapes but can also have some Syrah or other non-Bordeaux grapes in the blend, especially in cooler vintages. It’s the same with the Stratus White — Sauvingon Blanc and Sémillon often getting a shot of Chardonnay, Viognier or something else blended in. But the goal is to have the complexity and depth of Bordeaux.
Rick VanSickle fulfilled a life long dream when he visited Château Latour
The 1985 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc was perhaps over the hill, but the 1994 Paul Bosc Vineyard blend was still going strong with lovely integrated fruits and spice. The 2002 Equuleus, the name of the top wine made at the estate only in the best vintages, is beautiful now but I remember it as a heavily a tannic wine that was nearly unapproachable just five years ago. The 2012 Equuleus, due to be released later this year, is the most approachable top wine from this estate I have tasted but is still jam-packed with ripe fruit and supple tannins in a more modern style, yet constructed with a Bordelais feel to it. “We have to take what the terroir gives us here and run with it,” Bosc says. “My vision is to compete with the best wines in the world, you have to be the best in the world.” Bosc is not alone with this inspiration. Other early pioneers in Niagara were quick to plant the classic Bordeaux grapes in Ontario along with the Burgundy varieties of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and, of course, Riesling. They all had the same desire: To be like Bordeaux, to be like Burgundy, to be like Germany. It was all they knew. It was no different in Canada’s other emerging wine region — the Okanagan Valley. In today’s wine industry, the nod to Bordeaux might not be as obvious as wineries strive to put their own identity on their wines, with proprietary names and subtle additions to their classically-styled red blends, but they wouldn’t be insulted if you told them their wine tastes a lot like Bordeaux. 38 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
In BC, where the climate is warmer and some would say more suited to the Bordeaux varieties (in Niagara, the top Bordeaux style wines are generally best in warm vintages, such as 2012, 2010, 2007, etc), at least two wineries dedicate themselves to only a Bordeaux-style red blend — Osoyoos Larose and the new One Faith Vineyard. In 1998, Groupe Taillan of Bordeaux and Constellation Brands partnered with a vision to create a world-class Canadian wine from classic Bordeaux varietals. The union of centuries-old winemaking traditions and New World was consummated on an arid, west-facing, 80-acre bench overlooking Lake Osoyoos in the South Okanagan. That first vintage in 2001 solidified its place as one of the most consistent Bordeaux-style wines in the country. One Faith Vineyard, which makes no bones about its desire to be thought of as a “First Growth” in Canada (see the April 2015 issue of Quench for the controversy about that self-proclamation), debuted with the bravado to back up its claim, but it rankled more than a few for its brash comparison to the greatest properties in Bordeaux. But here’s the thing. Call it what you want: Meritage, Cabernets, Cab-Merlot, First Growth, Equuleus, La Brunante (Hidden Bench), Hypothesis (Culmina), Poetica (Southbrook) or dozens of other proprietary names, the end game is the same: To make fabulously rich and full-bodied red wines that have complexity and staying power. If it makes you think of Bordeaux, well that’s just gravy. ×
CULTURE CLUB by Silvana Lau
Growing up in an immigrant family in Calgary during the ‘80s was a tough gig. Especially in the school lunchroom. I was the Chinese kid with the weird and “smelly” food. I always dreaded 12:05pm each day. Brrrring went the lunch bell. While the other kids had the brown bag staple, PB&J or bologna and mustard sandwiches, I had anything other than that. No one ever wanted to swap lunches with me. Not even the boy with the squashed tuna sandwich. You see, I didn’t have a plastic Barbie lunch box or a brown paper bag. My lunch lived inside an insulated thermos jar. All eyes would be on me as I unscrewed the lid to see what kind of smelly goodies awaited. Pop! As I removed the cap from the thermos, a pungent smell wafted out. I would prepare myself for the chorus of “eeewww!” and “what’s that?” One day it would be beef with bitter melon in black bean sauce, the next day it would be fried rice laced with fish sauce. I (and the tuna sandwich boy) had the “fear factor” lunches of our times. Although the smell crinkled many noses, I remember them being utterly delicious. I always contemplated why my fellow fourth graders got freaked out with the idea of ingesting bacteria and wild yeasts. Maybe they didn’t know that eating fermented food is beneficial to your intestinal flora. Perhaps they needed a lesson or two on the nature of fermentation. Explaining fermentation, even to a fourth grader, is (relatively) simple. Take any food group, place it in a room temperature environment and let it sit for days, weeks, or months. Voilà, fermentation! The beneficial microorganisms (yeasts, moulds and bacteria) must be protected from the growth of dangerous bacteria (pathogenic microorganisms). Creating a salty environment, adding a starter culture, eliminating oxygen or increasing the acidity (adding vinegar) are all ways to prevent spoilage during the process. As the reaction progresses, sugars and starches are converted into alcohol (lactic acid bacteria) and acid (acetic acid bacteria). What you are left with is a food that has gone through a “makeover.” And it’s actually a more nutritious version of its original form. Packed with a multitude of vitamins and probiotics, fermented foods provide enzymes that boost digestive health. Humans have been fermenting foods for centuries. The earliest evidence dates back to 6000 BCE in the Caucasus region. The Georgians were the first to produce a fermented beverage, aka wine (God bless them!). The millions of Chinese workers drafted to build the Great Wall over the course of 2,000 years, would
snack on fermented mixed vegetables during its construction. In ancient times, fermentation (along with smoking and drying) was a widely practised food preservation technique. Cultures around the world have created unique flavours and traditions based around fermented food, including the ubiquitous sauerkraut. Asian civilizations have a history of fermenting a wide variety of foods including kimchi, douchi, miso and fish sauce. These condiments have all remained essential components of far Eastern cuisine. Get your taste buds ready as I take you on a journey to the pungent world of fermented deliciousness!
KIMCHI
Kimchi is not just for Koreans anymore. This spicy, sour and garlicky fermented cabbage has big buzz in the international food scene. It is made from salting and fermenting Napa cabbage (radish or cucumbers are also used) with garlic, ginger, chili flakes, and green onion. To help kick-start the fermentation process, seafood is added to the mix — salted shrimp, fish sauce or oysters. Traditionally, Korean families would prepare enough kimchi to last the long winter. It would then be stored underground in large clay jars to maintain the optimal fermentation temperature. Today, most Koreans dwell in apartments with no backyards to bury the jars. Enter the kimchi refrigerator. This fridge mimics the conditions of a clay pot buried in the ground and has different temperature controls and fermentation settings. MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 39
DOUCHI: CHINESE FERMENTED BLACK BEAN
I understand having a separate fridge for my wine and beer, but a fridge designated for fermented cabbage? Koreans are obviously very serious about their kimchi! So are Canadians, apparently. Sauerkraut’s bolder, more adventurous cousin has been making appearances in menus across the country. Funky, fiery and with an addictive crunch, kimchi transforms a dull meal in an instant. It’s the perfect fusion food. Forget poutine; instead, try kimchi on top of fries. Hold off on the guacamole and put the piquant, salty cabbage in your cheese quesadilla for a zesty, spicy zing. How about a “kimcheese” sandwich (grilled cheese with kimchi)? You can also add it to stews, stir-fries, burgers, egg dishes, fried rice and soups. Trust me — after you try it, you’ll want to put it on everything! Koreans (who eat on average about 18 kilos of it every year) have always known about the health benefits of their national dish. Kimchi is loaded with probiotics that aid digestion. Low in calories and fat, it’s loaded with Vitamin A and C to boot. 40 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
It’s more than likely you have seen douchi (Chinese fermented black bean) in your Chinese takeout of stir-fry beef and peppers in spicy black bean sauce or black bean spare ribs. Not as popular as soy sauce in Chinese cooking, fermented black bean is nonetheless a staple among Chinese cooking enthusiasts. Take a whiff of douchi and you won’t confuse these tiny little black beans with the same black beans you use in Mexican cooking. Douchi is made by fermenting soybeans with salt and other ingredients, like chilies and wine. The smell of the beans is both smoky and cheesy, with a bracing salty-soy taste. When I think of cheese and salt, I think of Parmesan cheese. Could this be the Chinese equivalent? With the same umami burst that Parmesan brings to a dish, a tiny amount of douchi (a little goes a long way) injects life into any dish. Both fermented black bean and black bean sauce can be found at your local Asian grocery store, with the latter being a savoury, ready-to-use sauce blended with garlic and chili. Look for pliable beans, as they are an indication of freshness. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dry place. As it tends to be quite salty, most recipes suggest soaking the beans before using them. When using douchi, you should also add fresh ginger and garlic to the mix. The flavours of the aromatic garlic and the tangy jolt of fresh ginger are a perfect accompaniment to the complex notes of the black bean. Instantly brighten up everyday stirfries, marinades, steamed or roasted vegetables by adding some mashed up douchi with garlic and ginger into your dish. Douchi makes a frequent appearance in Chinese seafood dishes as well. Wok-fried clams in black bean sauce, steamed oysters with garlic and black bean sauce are two popular ones. The distinctive salty taste of the beans, the aromatic garlic and the saline tang of the shellfish will have you hooked.
People most often associate miso with the soup but it can be used for so much more. Think outside the box: in salad dressings, dips and marinades for fish. For darker and aged miso, add it to heartier dishes such as stews for that extra oomph of flavour.
MISO
If you have ever dined at a Japanese restaurant, more than likely you have had miso. However, it’s probably unlikely that the average miso soup served in restaurants uses unpasteurized miso, such as the New World producer Tradition Miso. Husband and wife team, Jerry Lewycky and Suzanne Cardinal have been producing Japan’s most favourite condiment in Claremont, Ontario for more than 16 years. Their mission is “to bring the ancient craft of producing fine miso to Canada.” Tradition Miso only contains certified organic ingredients — brown rice from Argentina, Canadian barley, Ontario soybeans, Portuguese sea salt and good ol’ Ontario spring water. “We use a natural temperature process, whereas conventional miso is made using forced temperature. They put it in a hot room to speed up fermentation and add yeast. We don’t do that. Commercial miso can be made in two weeks; ours is made the traditional ancient way using natural temperature, no addition of yeast and aged up to three years,” Lewycky explains. Making miso involves four basic steps. Step One: Steam rice and barley (or other grains). Step Two: Add spores of the Aspergillus Oryzae mold; grow the culture for two days and tada … Koji (which is also used when making sake). Step Three: Mix the Koji with salt and mash together with cooked soybeans. Step Four: Place in wooden vats; leave to ferment and age for three weeks to three years depending on the type of miso. Tradition Miso makes four different styles, ranging in tastes from mild to strong: organic aged one year (brown rice), organic aged one year (chickpea — for those who don’t consume soy products), organic aged three years (brown rice) and organic aged three years (barley). Cardinal notes that the “[…] four types of miso can be similarly compared to the difference between laMAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 41
KIM JONGUN’S CAESAR
If you are still a little apprehensive about trying any of the fermented items that I have mentioned, perhaps a cocktail is the best place to start. If Kim JongUn ever visited Canada, this would be the ideal drink for him. The quintessential Canuck staple with a Korean twist! I have replaced the vodka with soju (vodka-like rice liquor from Korea). This is a perfect way to use the leftover kimchi juices from the bottom of the kimchi jar, and the dehydrated onion and garlic in the steak spice complements the garlicky juices perfectly. Cheers!
2 parts soju 4 parts Clamato juice or preferably Walter’s Artisanal Mix (Found in specialty stores. It’s sublime!) 1 part kimchi juice 1 drop fish sauce 1/2 tsp Montreal steak spice Sriracha, to taste Wedge of lime Place the Montreal steak spice on a flat plate. Rim your glass by running the lime wedge around the rim and dipping it in the spice. Fill glass with ice. Combine all ingredients in the glass. Stir well. Garnish with a wedge of lime, a pepperette stick and kimchi (or whatever goodies you have in hand). Sip. Repeat!
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gers and ales. It all depends on people’s taste preferences. The longer miso is aged, the darker the colour and the more robust the flavour. Miso that is lighter in colour has a greater proportion of Koji, making it sweeter tasting. Darker miso has a higher soybean ratio, giving it more of a robust and stronger flavour.” When using miso, think outside the box. (Or, in this case, outside the bowl!) Not only used for miso soup, it can be added to many recipes (they even have miso flavoured Kit Kat in Japan). Cardinal recommends using lighter miso in salad dressings, dips and a marinade for fish. For darker and aged miso, add it to heartier dishes such as soups and stews for that extra oomph of flavour. Despite its high sodium content, (those with hypertension should limit their intake or adjust the amount of salt accordingly in the recipe) miso is chock-full of health benefits. High in protein and rich in vitamins, Lewycky also notes, “our unpasteurized miso is a live culture, which contain[s] probiotics and has thousands of enzymes to help with digestion. Take it down south (Caribbean) when you travel and you won’t get stomach illness.” He also notes that “Samurai warriors used to bring miso with them on battles, it was an excellent protein source. It removes radioactivity, heavy metals and toxins in the body. It was heavily exported during the Chernobyl disaster.” In addition, miso is high in antioxidants and has been found to reduce the risk of breast, colon, lung and prostate cancer. With a long list of health benefits, miso is truly a nutritional powerhouse.
FISH SAUCE
Have you ever eaten something that tastes better than it smells? Well, add fish sauce to the list. Although it originated in ancient Greece and Rome, this pungent condiment is the backbone in Southeast Asian cooking. Fish sauce is made from two ingredients: salt and freshly caught small fish such as anchovies. The fish are packed between two layers of salt inside an earthenware vessel and left to ferment in a sunny location for several months. During this process the anchovies break down in their own juices. Nam plah (literally “fish water” in Thai) is extracted from the vessel, filtered, bottled and can-stocked on the shelves of your local Asian grocery stores. Word of advice: Be extremely careful when transporting fish sauce home. If the bottle leaks, you, your clothes, your kitchen, your entire house will be rendered intolerable. However, don’t let this deter you from using fish sauce in your cooking repertoire. Adding a few drops of this potent concoction to any dish brings intense complexity, be it to a dip, marinade, stir fry or salad dressing. When purchasing fish sauce, look for pale amber colour with no sediments, and packaged in a glass bottle (better tasting and longer shelf life than their plastic counterparts). Check the ingredient list. High quality fish sauce only contains fish and salt, and is free from added water, MSG and preservatives. Vietnamese-style fish sauce differs from its neighbouring Thai fish sauce, in that it’s lighter and less salty. The darker the colour, the stronger the potency of the sauce. Store the vigorous elixir in the refrigerator, it will keep for months.
Luckily, “fish water” mellows out substantially while it is cooking, as it does when combining it with chili, garlic, lime juice and palm sugar (which creates Vietnamese nuoc mam pha). This tangy mélange is spooned onto everything in Vietnamese kitchens; as a dipping sauce for spring rolls and fresh shrimp salad rolls, to a “dressing” for Bún (vermicelli with grilled meats). However, fish sauce is not reserved for Southeast Asian cooking. Experiment with it. It is a staple in my kitchen; I use it as an alternative to salt and soy sauce. In addition, not only does it provide a tasty substitute for soy, it is good for your health. Fish sauce is full of vital minerals and nutrients as a result of fermenting the entire fish (organs, bones, meat, head, tails and all). In my humble opinion, without a dash of fish sauce many meals lack depth and end up tasting one-dimensional. Try it in recipes that call for Worcestershire (also made from anchovies). Add a few splashes when making soup to round it out. Alternatively, add a few dashes to salad dressing to perk it up and make it “Caesar-esque.” In lieu of salt, add a few drops to mashed-up avocado on toast. Include it at the beginning of the cooking process to layer the savoury complexity of a dish, such as in a Bolognese (fish sauce did hail from ancient Rome). Toss aside any doubts and reservations. Take the plunge and introduce “umami on steroids” to your kitchen. During my childhood lunch episodes, I always wanted to hide in a corner and eat my fermented meals in isolation. Today, I want to trumpet the flavours of fermented Asian condiments to the world. Sushi wouldn’t be the same without dipping it in the juice of fermented soybeans. Fermented fish water provides the essential savoury flavours found in a traditional Pad Thai. When we eat spicy chicken wings (preferably kimchi infused), who doesn’t love to wash them down with some fermented wheat or barley? The truth is, as smelly as fermented foods can be, we are all lovers (or closet lovers) of the stuff. It’s time to join the culture club. Bring on the funky and fabulous fermented foods of the Far East. × MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 43
Boldly
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y Going … by Tod Stewart
Writing in the Ottawa Citizen, food editor and restaurant critic Peter Hum declared that wine and food pairing has “had its day.” “Surely,” Hum snarked, “when every food has been paired with every wine many times over, it’s time to give the thing a rest.” So RIP wine and food pairing. Thanks for humouring me. Admittedly, I tend to echo Hum’s sentiments. Don’t get me wrong; I think there are some truly specific — and truly fantastic — wine and food matches (goat cheese and Sauvignon Blanc, Chablis and oysters, Sauternes and foie gras, Port and stilton, Champagne and more Champagne, etc.). Some couplings complement each other like nuts complement bolts. Some offer surprising contrasts, with distinctly different flavour profiles melding together to dance a delicious taste tango. I agree with Hum, however, that things can get out of hand. Either matchings get precise to the point of near impossibility (freshly caught Niagara River rainbow trout must be poached in unoaked Chardonnay from the Niagara River VQA sub-appellation and served with same, with the age of the fish matching within a year of the vintage of the wine), or broad to the point of, well, what’s the point? While “red wine with red meat, and white wine with white meat and fish” is probably one of the oldest culinary rules of thumb, it still might be the most generally reliable. Try that rare grilled steak with a Muscadet or that oyster with some Barolo and you’ll easily understand the merits of “red with red; white with white.” It’s also true that, for the most part, local wines tend to pair with local foods (Crottin de Chavignol and Sancerre, for example). “What grows together, goes together.” (Another handy little saying.) Where things get tricky is when you try to pair wines to foods coming from countries with no real history of wine production or that use ingredients not typically fused into the gastronomy of wine-producing countries or regions. Pairing wine with Asian cuisine presents one such challenge. The best advice in such a situation might be, “Don’t do it.” But I love a challenge. While wine production in China dates back almost 5,000 years, most Asian countries have pretty much zilch in the way
of a wine industry (snake wine being exempt as it stretches the boundaries of what we might call “table wine” a bit too far). In case it needs to be emphasized again, sake is technically a beer, so it doesn’t count. It’s true that importing top-flight wines has become something of a big deal in China, but the jury’s still out as to whether these wines are being enjoyed with meals, displayed as status symbols or mixed with pop. In any case, the lack of an Asian “wine culture” isn’t the main reason matching wine with indigenous dishes is a tricky undertaking, but rather, the flavour components themselves. When it comes to Asian dishes, beverage matching gets challenging simply due to the ingredients being used. Fermented sauces and pastes typically introduce high salinity. Then there’s the (occasionally lip-numbing) spice and the sweet/sour yinyang. Combined, they can create some palate histrionics that will send the flavour of almost any wine cowering. With the possible exception of sushi and sashimi, which tend to be fairly delicate (assuming you haven’t doused it to the point where the dominant flavours come via the salt from soy sauce and sinus-clearing wasabi), most Asian dishes probably play the nicest with beer. But (I know, I know), you’re not big on beer. Fine. Let’s see what we can do. First things first, as with any cuisine, “Asian food” is not a single dish, so there won’t be a single “go-to” wine (though there might be a go-to style — we’ll get to that). Chinese food itself includes Henan, which differs from Yunnan, which differs from Shanghainese, which differs from Taiwanese and so on. Authentic Chinese doesn’t include chicken balls dipped in a day-glo sweet sauce with the consistency of glue. Japanese, Thai and Korean cuisine each present more options (and more sub regional variations). MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 45
So what will ultimately determine your wine choice will have a bit to do with the actual base ingredient (e.g. meat or fish), and a lot to do with what that base is being gussied up with (spices, fruits, fermented pastes, etc.). This isn’t a real radical departure from the usual. A simple grilled chicken breast is indeed white meat, which might prompt you to reach for a white wine. But serve it as Chicken Parmesan with loads of tomato sauce and grated cheese, and you’re likely reaching for vino rosso. As well, different cooking techniques will open up (or limit, depending on how you look at it) your wine landscape. Wines that work with raw, steamed or poached dishes might not show as well with fried and fatty food. Are you ready for that beer yet? A quick tour of the Internet (search: Asian+food+wine+helpmeoutwiththis) yielded predictable results, with a zillion sommeliers offering two zillion possibilities. I figured it was time to get a bit systematic, if not scientific, with things. If there were as many Asian wine and food possibilities as there was tea in China (sorry, that was a bit clunky), could I at least isolate some of the most popular Asian dishes and nail at least one popular wine (or wine style) to match, singularly and definitively, with each individual food item? Would one work pretty much with all the edibles?
Beef Brisket Lo Mein with a Pinot
AS MUCH AS I WAS DYING TO FIND OUT, A FEW ROADBLOCKS STOOD IN THE WAY. First, finding authentic Asian
cuisine would be a problem. Not so much because there wasn’t any to be had in Toronto, but mostly because I wouldn’t have much of a clue as to what dishes to order (my knowledge of Asian specialties beyond the basics being somewhat — read: completely — lacking). Second, even if I managed to find a resto serving the real deal, the chances of it having much of a wine list would be iffy at best (see my note re: Asian wine culture above). Maybe they’d be authorized for BYOB. Right. A lot of these places don’t even have liquor licenses. Smuggle my own in and hope I don’t get caught? Not out of the realm of the possible. How about just do take out/delivery? This would seem to be the most sensible route. I could pick my own wines, and mix and match to my leisure. But nothing’s ever easy, is it? The wines were no issue. I picked out four based on the Asian food elements I mentioned earlier. With those criteria in mind, I chose a sparkling Vouvray (the always reliable Chenin Blanc-based Château Moncontour “Cuvée Prédilection” 2011 from the Loire Valley; palate-cleansing bubbles and a hint of sweetness); my “go to” house wine, Cono Sur Bicicleta Viognier 2014 from Chile (exotic and fragrant); a very popular German Riesling (I know, German and popular in the same sentence?), Schmitt Söhne’s Relax Riesling 2013, a Q.bA Mosel that’s light, low alcohol and off-dry; and a token red, the Nobilo Icon Pinot Noir 2013 from Marlborough, New Zealand (mainly because of the meat dishes). So far, so good. But I still needed guidance when it came to the food to order. Luckily, help was on hand in the form of one of Quench’s newest contributors, Silvana Lau. Chinese by descent, she knows her way around Asian cuisine and Toronto’s Asian food floggers. And she’s got pretty much a pro palate to boot. Having called one of the city’s better Thai joints the night before to confirm it delivered, a slight note of panic crept into her voice as we attempted to place an order we had spent a good 20 minutes assembling. 46 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
“But you told me yesterday that you did and it says you do on your website!” she countered when told delivery wasn’t an option (throwing me a WTF? look). “Try our second location,” was the helpful suggestion from the disembodied voice on the other end. “I did and I got a voice message about holiday hours — and this is February — can’t you guys just do a delivery?” She strained to interpret the Asian/Anglo banter being exchanged in the restaurant. “You will? Great! ... What? ... Over two hours? … You’re four blocks away! What? You can’t deliver tonight after all?” Bear in mind, this was a Wednesday, hardly a prime delivery demand day. Long story short, we finally got delivery from another purveyor, a delivery that included: green papaya salad (Thai spicy), Tom Yum chicken soup, green coconut curry chicken (every time we tried to order seafood, we were assured the chicken was the better choice; this did not assure us in any way) and Pad Kee Mao (Thai Drunken Noodles with Beef ). We also nabbed a sushi/sashimi platter from a place a couple doors down (not exactly high-end exotic, but beggars, etc.). So, time to get busy. (As an amusing aside, the first place that wouldn’t/couldn’t deliver was suggested as a great Valentine’s Day Thai delivery option in the following day’s NOW magazine. This must have tested a few lovebirds’ patience, if not the strength of their relationship.) Observations on the outcome: nothing really worked well with the sushi/sashimi. The bubbly offered indifference (but sort of at least cast a glance at the vegetable maki). The Riesling was too sweet. The Viognier kind of worked, but only to the extent that it didn’t clobber/get clobbered by the food. We had hopes for the tuna/Pinot Noir combo but the raw fish was too delicate. Tuna charred quickly on a grill might have been a good match but as good as the Pinot was, raw tuna was not its pal.
GREEN PAPAYA SALAD WITH AN IPA I’ve paired Sauvignon Blanc-based wines and Austrian Grüner Veltliners to sushi with some success (the herbal/citrus notes seem to mesh for whatever reason). Tonight’s combos, however, while not epic fails, did not inspire. On to the louder, more aggressive, Thai offerings. The green papaya salad, with its incendiary spice level, not only obliterated the taste of each wine, but damn near cauterized my palate as well. The Riesling put up a fight but, in the end, it went down in flames. What did work well (no surprise here) was a mouthful of cold, hoppy, Total Domination IPA from Oregon’s Ninkasi Brewing Company. The combination of cold/bitter/bubbles and moderate alcohol zapped numbed taste buds back to life. In fact, the beer was the best match for everything … but back to wine. The Viognier arm-wrestled the spicy/sweet Tom Yum soup into something akin to submission, with the Riesling doing so in a slightly lesser way. The same tag-team countered green coconut curry chicken respectably, but it was a match with not a lot of real excitement, just a kind of grudging agreement by each party not to kill each other. Pad Kee Mao, on the other hand, killed all the wines dead. Again, the humble IPA took the dish on with easy grace. Dejected, but not willing to quit, we sealed up the wines and, a couple days later, got out our chopsticks for Round Two: some traditional Korean and Chinese morsels. Thankfully, things gelled much better this time around, largely because the food in general was less spicy. There were still some sweet elements and the heat was there if you wanted it (by way of addition, rather than being part of the dish itself ), but overall the intensity level was more manageable than the Thai inferno. Chinese roast pork belly showed well with pretty much every wine, the nod going to the Pinot (though the Riesling was a strong
Bibimbap with a sparkling Vouvray
contender — especially when the sweet, sticky hoisin sauce was added to the mix). Succulent roast duck, with its fatty/crispy skin, also took a shine to the Pinot, with the Vouvray working nicely as well (the bubbles washed away the fattiness and cleansed the palate). A very pure and authentic shrimp wonton soup did the trick nicely with the bubbly as well, though the moderate sweetness of the Riesling did an admirable job of cutting through the saltiness of the broth. Beef Brisket Lo Mein, a meat/noodle/broth take out staple (though authentic Chinese), also got along well with the Pinot. Korean dishes including bibimbap (a traditional dish that includes rice, noodles, vegetables, a fried egg, beef, chili pepper paste and soy sauce) and a kimchi seafood pancake (see Culture Club on page 39 for more info on kimchi) also turned out to be surprisingly grape-friendly. The former dish’s mélange of flavours, textures and mild heat provided a perfect playground for the mildly earthy, sparkling Vouvray. The latter intermingled nicely with both the Pinot and the Viognier, with the tangy kimchi weaving exotic flavour tendrils around the fruit core and acidity of each wine (another one of those food “rules:” acidic foods and slightly acidic wines get along — the acids tend to soften, rather than build, on each other). Verdict: Thai food’s best friend is cold, crisp, hoppy beer. In general, there’s too much heat and too much going on to work with most wines. Go delicate with Japanese sushi and sashimi — light, white and crisp. Chinese and Korean foods seem to be the most wine-friendly, with flavour combinations that are a bit less busy than Thai, and not as volcanic. Wine and food pairing dead? Nah. It can be a lot of fun to experiment. It’s also a great excuse for exploring ingredients and food preparation techniques that might not normally pop up on your epicurean radar … and washing the results down with a good glass of grape (or three). × MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 47
Saucy by Duncan Holmes I’VE NEVER BEEN A KETCHUP PERSON. This thick, sweet
and salty concoction that has forever been reluctantly blopped onto foods all over the western world from Heinz and other bottles has never been my choice to top a side of fries. Or anything else. A splash of malt vinegar, a dollop or three of mayo? Certainement. I’m simply one who prefers luscious love apples as they are, or served up as anything but ketchup. That said, I’m still very much a sauce person. I was charmed, and right there with them, when chef Hassan and his Marguerite picnicked in the sunshine of France in The Hundred Foot Journey. What a sensual scene when they seductively dipped into what many agree are the mother sauces of culinary Europe. Versatile velouté, rich brown Espagnole, creamy white béchamel, pasta-loving tomate, tangy and terrific hollandaise? Classics every one. But important as this happy family is — the beginnings of so many other tastes — there are many more. All kinds of spicy and other sons and daughters, in kitchens far, far removed from the apron strings of mother France. I’ve been a fan for years of commercial Thai sweet chili sauce and shamelessly swamp it over almost everything. Made of pickled red chilies, vinegar, garlic and the inevitable xanthan gum to thicken it up a bit, it complements every kind of protein and gives ordinary, too-familiar tastes a burst of exotica. Unlike fiery Tabasco, the heat of it is barely discernable, but there’s enough to make it interesting. In the same Southeast Asian family, but with more heat, is sriracha, again with a heart of chilies and named after the coastal city of Si Racha in eastern Thailand. You may have seen it on the table at some restaurant — identified by a rooster on the label and a green squeeze top. If you know it, you’re likely to be addicted. Like the mothers of Europe, which can often be the starters for other sauces — think cheese in your béchamel, onions and mushrooms in the tomate — mayo mixed with sriracha makes a great dip. I don’t know exactly when sauces like these Thais hit the mainstream, but my own experience has been to try what the locals are using, and if I like what I’m tasting, I bring a bottle home. As does everyone else — and soon after they seem to find spots on the grocery shelves. Coconut milk, in recent years, has become a staple in my kitchen cupboard, as have the spices for a good curry. I’m an aficionado of curries and in a grinder, which I use exclusively for this purpose, I have brought together toasted cumin, cardamom and coriander, and whirled them with turmeric, mustard and 48 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
cayenne. Presto — a colourful and bright-tasting meal. Serve it up in a mélange with chicken or shrimp and coconut milk, and rice on the side. Once again, close your eyes and open your taste buds, and you’re back where you were on holiday. With the street vendors of the Pacific villages of Mexico or the gastronomic mysteries of the backstreets of Bangkok. Where else to find galangal, kaffir lime leaves, mangosteens, pomelos and rambutans; and the shrimp just in from Mexican fisher Manuel, who minutes before pulled his boat up onto the beach? Aroy it is! The common denominator in all of these places is that the locals make the best use of what’s available and bring taste together with heartfelt abandon. The Thais? No other country’s cuisine quite combines the sweet, sour, salt and spice tastes in such clever, complementary style. Which is likely why the tastes work so well in our favourite Thai haunts, upmarket and down. The secret, of course, is that recipes may be there as guides, but like the mother sauces, it’s what we do with them, how we prepare and present our meals to family and friends, that make them memorable. The Thais, we’re told, chase a state called jai yen, which more or less means cool heart. Like a great picnic in the poppies or flax fields of France, it’s a place with signs in every language or no language at all. Simply friendly, vibrant, pungent if you wish and like nothing at home — which again is why you went there in the first place.
THE MOTHER OF ALL SAUCES VELOUTÉ
One of the French “mothers,” this sauce is béchamel made with chicken stock instead of milk. It’s a great foundation for other sauces you may wish to create with herbs, spices or whatever is in your cupboard or fridge.
5 4 4
tbsp butter tbsp flour cups chicken stock Salt and fresh-ground pepper
Over medium heat, melt the butter and whisk in the flour until it forms a smooth paste. Continue whisking and cook for about 2 minutes. Gradually add the chicken stock. Continue whisking and cook until the sauce is heated through, smooth and thickened. Remove from heat and season with the salt and pepper to taste.
STREET STALL GREEN CHICKEN CURRY
SERVES 4 We published this recipe from Bangkok a few years ago, attempting at the time to make it as close to the real thing as possible.
750 g chicken thigh fillets 200 g green beans 1 cup coconut cream FOR THE CURRY PASTE:
3 2 2 1/2 1/4 2 2 1 1/2 1/4
small green chilies, chopped green shallots, chopped cloves garlic, crushed cup lemongrass, chopped cup coriander, chopped tbsp oil tbsp water tsp shrimp paste tsp ground cumin tsp turmeric
1. Prepare the curry paste by blending ingredients smoothly together. Cut the chicken into thin strips and the beans into bite-sized pieces. 2. Cook the curry paste on medium heat for about 5 minutes. Add the chicken and beans, and cook for another 5 minutes, or until the chicken is tender. 3. Stir in the coconut cream and simmer uncovered for another 5 minutes, or until the mixture begins to thicken. Serve with steamed rice.
MAY/JUNE 2015 Ă— QUENCH.ME Ă— 49
SRIRACHA This recipe is included more for information than anything else because it’s much easier to relish the sriracha that comes in the rooster bottle. But try it if you wish and have a spare 3 and maybe more days to provide time for fermentation. You will be admired for your effort. (Credit for this recipe goes to allrecipes.com)
1 1/2 4 3 1 1/3 1/2
lb red jalapeño peppers, stems cut off lb red serrano peppers, stems cut off cloves garlic, peeled tbsp light brown sugar tbsp kosher salt cup water cup distilled white vinegar
1. Chop jalapeño and serrano peppers, retaining seeds and membranes, and place into a blender with garlic, brown sugar, salt and water. Blend until smooth. 2. Transfer into a large glass container. Cover with plastic wrap and keep in a cool dark location for 3 to 5 days, stirring once a day. The mixture will begin to ferment. 3. Scrape down the sides during each stirring. Rewrap after each stirring and return to a cool, dark place until mixture is bubbly. 4. Pour fermented mixture back into blender with vinegar and blend until smooth. Strain mixture through a fine mesh strainer into a saucepan, pushing as much of the pulp as possible through the strainer into the sauce. Discard remaining pulp, seeds and skin left in strainer. 5. Place saucepan on a burner and bring sauce to a boil, stirring often, until reduced to desired thickness, 5 to 10 minutes. Skim foam if desired. 6. Remove saucepan from heat and let sauce cool to room temperature. Sauce will thicken a little when cooled. Transfer sauce to jars or bottles; refrigerate. 7. Smother on all sorts of food stuff. Makes a great marinade for chicken wings. MATCH: Something this spicy can be a bit hard to match with. Try with an IPA or spicy dark beer (see page 44 for more suggestions). 50 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
HOLLANDAISE
You can buy this in a pack. But scratch-made is always better. This “mother” has been in my book forever. It makes about a cup.
1/2 cup unsalted butter 1 1/2 tbsp lemon juice, dry sherry or tarragon vinegar 3 egg yolks 4 tbsp boiling water (in total) 1/4 tsp salt Dash of cayenne 1. Melt the butter and keep it warm. Place the egg yolks in the top of a double boiler that is over, not in, boiling water. 2. Beat the yolks with a wire whisk until they begin to thicken. Add a tbsp boiling water and keep beating until the eggs again begin to thicken. 3. Repeat this process until you have added 3 more tbsp boiling water. Beat in the warmed lemon juice. Remove the double boiler from heat. 4. Beat the sauce well with a wire whisk. Continue to beat while slowly adding the melted butter, then the salt and cayenne. Serve at once. 5. If your sauce “breaks”, you may be able to bring it round with some chilled cream. Despite Hundred Foot Journey, not the best sauce for a picnic. ×
MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 51
BOUQUET GARNI BY NANCY JOHNSON
GETTIN’ FRESH BACK IN THE ‘60S, WHEN I WAS A TEENAGER, “GETTIN’ FRESH” MEANT YOUR DATE WAS TRYING TO MOVE A LITTLE TOO FAST TO FIRST BASE. Sometimes it meant a kid was smart-mouthing an adult, in
which case the adult would growl, “Don’t get fresh with me, punk.” To me, “gettin’ fresh” always meant “gettin’ fresh fruits and veggies.” I recall the shopping trip I made as a newlywed in 1970, grocery list in hand, for my first dinner party. I knew I wanted to make fresh broccoli, but I wasn’t quite sure how much I would need or exactly how I should cook it. Relieved to spot a friend’s mother in the store, I stopped to ask her advice. She confidently marched me to the frozen foods section and suggested I buy at least two packages of frozen chopped broccoli. This was in the era long before the kitchen microwave, so it’s no surprise she advised me to “just boil it.” Nope, I wanted fresh broccoli and I bought it as soon as she left the store. At home, I sautéed it with olive oil and fresh garlic until it was crisp and browned in spots, the way my Italian grandmother made it, the way my mom made it. In my kitchen, “gettin’ fresh” has always meant cooking with absolute best-quality, minimally-processed foods and taking advantage of the rich abundance of seasonal vegetables and fruits from the grocery store or — even better — the farmers’ market. And that’s the way I get fresh, kid.
52 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
× Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on quench.me/recipes/
PASTA PRIMAVERA
SERVES 4 The stars of primavera are spring veggies — after all, primavera means “spring” in Italian. You can, however, make this dish according to the seasons throughout the year. This recipe is not a science — use as many or as few veggies as you like. Haricots vert are long, slender French green beans now readily available at most supermarkets. If you can’t find them, use green beans. Fresh peas are worth the work it takes to shell them, but if you can’t find fresh, use frozen.
1 bunch slender asparagus, trimmed and sliced into 1-inch pieces Handful of haricots vert or green beans, trimmed and sliced into 1-inch pieces 3 tbsp butter 2 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, diced 1 cup mushrooms, chopped 1/2 cup fresh peas 1 cup heavy cream 1 package fettuccine, cooked 8 fresh basil leaves, chopped 1/2 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated 1. Cook asparagus and haricots vert or green beans in boiling
salted water for 1 minute. Remove and rinse under cold water to stop cooking process. 2. In a large skillet, melt butter with olive oil. Add onion and mushrooms. Sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Add asparagus, haricots vert and peas. 3. Sauté until vegetables are tender. Add heavy cream. Simmer until heated through. Add cooked fettuccine, basil and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Heat through. MATCH: Serve with a Pinot Grigio.
FRENCH ROASTED VEGETABLES
This is another one of those dishes that can change with the season. All you need is a crusty loaf of bread and a bottle of wine for a wonderful vegetarian dinner. Or serve with roasted chicken and orzo.
3 sweet red bell peppers Olive oil, as needed 2 small zucchini, thickly sliced 1 fennel bulb, chopped 1 red onion, sliced 5 Roma tomatoes, blanched, peeled, cored and seeded 1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves, minced 1 tbsp fresh rosemary leaves, minced 1 tsp sugar Salt and pepper, to taste 1. Preheat oven to 375˚F. 2. Roast the peppers under a broiler until skin blackens,
turning as needed. Cool, slice open, remove stem and seeds, and roughly chop.
3. In a skillet, heat about 2 tbsp olive oil. Add zucchini and sauté until nearly tender. Transfer to roasting pan. Add a bit more olive oil to skillet. Add fennel and onion to skillet and sauté until softened, about 15 minutes. Transfer to baking pan. 4. Add tomatoes, thyme, rosemary and sugar to baking pan. Mix gently. Spread vegetables into one layer. Drizzle with olive oil, salt and pepper. Roast 40 minutes. MATCH: Serve with crusty bread and a French Bordeaux.
BRAISED AND GLAZED CARROTS
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH The nice thing about carrots is that they are available throughout the year. This recipe turns them into a lovely sweet side dish.
1 1/2 3 1 1/2
lb carrots, peeled and cut into sticks cup chicken broth tbsp butter tbsp brown sugar Minced fresh parsley, for garnish
In a large skillet, simmer all ingredients, covered, over medium-low heat until carrots are tender and sauce is syrupy, about 15 to 20 minutes. Garnish with parsley.
BEEF WITH BROCCOLINI
Stir-frying is one of my favourite ways to enjoy fresh vegetables. Here slender, slightly sweet broccolini pairs with flank steak for a quick-cooking entrée. For the record, I always use low-sodium soy sauce. You can use the soy sauce of your choice, but if it’s not low-salt, omit the salt.
1/4 1/2 3 2 1 1/2 1 3 1 1 1 1
cup dry sherry cup beef stock tbsp low-sodium soy sauce tbsp hoisin sauce tbsp cornstarch tsp salt beef flank steak, cut into slices tbsp peanut oil, divided tbsp fresh ginger root, minced clove garlic, minced bunch broccolini, ends trimmed cup mixed mushrooms, chopped Jasmine rice, cooked
1. In a large bowl, combine sherry, broth, soy sauce, hoisin sauce, cornstarch and salt. Add steak. Toss to coat. Refrigerate 20 minutes. 2. In a large wok or skillet, heat 2 tbsp peanut oil over medium-high heat. Stir-fry steak in batches, reserving marinade. Set aside. 3. Add 1 tbsp peanut oil to wok or skillet. Stir-fry ginger root and garlic about 20 seconds. Add broccolini. Stir-fry 3 minutes. Add mushrooms. Stir-fry 3 minutes or until tender. 4. Return steak to wok or skillet with reserved marinade. Cook until sauce thickens, about 2 minutes. Serve over cooked jasmine rice. MATCH: Serve with a Sangiovese. × MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 53
NOTED 91 BACHELDER NUITS-ST-GEORGES LA PETITE CHARMOTTE 2011, BURGUNDY, FRANCE ($65)
A single-vineyard Pinot Noir with a heady perfume of cherry, plum, toast, earth, thyme, iron and spice. The palate is linear but long, with a slightly dry finish that will work well when matched up against a medium-rare magret de canard. (ES)
91 HAYWIRE CANYONVIEW VINEYARD RAISED IN CONCRETE CHARDONNAY 2013, OKANAGAN ($23)
Sensational nose of citrus, cream, sage, peach pit and swirling minerality. It has a silky texture on the palate, a common theme with these concrete-aged wines, with a mélange of citrus, cream and bready-yeasty notes that melt in the mouth. Hate to compare, but Chablis comes to mind. (RV)
94 VINCENT ROCHETTE CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE AC 2010, FRANCE ($14.33)
Clear deep plum colour. Smells like an adult cherry cola, in a good way; also oak and spice aromas. Medium-bodied with medium acidity and noticeable but smooth tannins. Lots of cherry fruit opening in the glass to fig and raisin flavours. Good value. (RL)*
89 JACKSON-TRIGGS WINERY GRAND RESERVE MERITAGE 2012, NIAGARA ($24.95)
Almost equal parts of all 3 major Bordeaux red grapes were used to make this polished medium- to full-bodied red. There is a bouquet of plum, spice, cassis, cherry, raspberry, violets and black olive. The palate adds smoky tobacco and vanilla notes. Excellent length. (ES)
90 RAVINE VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, ST DAVID’S BENCH, ONTARIO ($35)
Elegant; the opaque black colour heralds the cassis, vanilla, spice, mint, violets, cocoa and smoke that are framed on a refined, medium-bodied frame. There is great length and suave tannins, so drink until 2020. Pair with rack of lamb. (ES)
90 CASAR DE BURBIA MENCIA 2010, BIERZO, SPAIN ($20)
Produced from the grapes grown at the Finca Valdepiñeiro estate, at altitudes that vary between 400 and 600 meters above sea-level. Smoky plum and black raspberry on the nose, as well as some vanilla and a hint of mint. Ripe, chewy and well-balanced with dark berry flavours, a touch of spice and medium tannins. (TS)
54 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
90 VILLA DI MASER ASOLO PROSECCO SUPERIORE DOCG BRUT NV, VENETO, ITALY ($23)
Orange blossoms on the nose. Ripe apple and pear flavours. Rich silky texture with a delicate, lively mousse. Juicy acidity, firm structure and a touch of sweetness. Finishes with a minerally, salty tang. Ginger spice throughout adds interest. Ideal with Italian salami like sopressa. (HH)
89 CHÂTEAU DE MONTGUERET CREMANT DE LOIRE BRUT, LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE ($19.95)
This is a well-made sparkling wine at a bargain price with a minerally nose of apple and pear, a creamy mouthfeel and a crisply dry, clean citrusy finish. (TA)
× Find a collection of tasting notes for wine, beer and spirits at quench.me/notes/
Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category. Our scores are based on the wine's quality as well as price point. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Carefully study the commentaries to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability.
Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Crystal Luxmore and Jonathan Smithe. QUENCH USES THE 100-POINT SCALE 95-100 = Exceptional 90-94 = Excellent 85-89 = Very good
SPARKLING 91 CÀ DEL GÉ METODO CLASSICO OLTREPÒ PAVESE DOCG BRUT 2009, LOMBARDY, ITALY ($33) Aromas of toasty brioche and complex custard. Rich and creamy with a seductively textured mousse. Long finish with notes of white flowers. Made from 100% Pinot Noir and aged 36 months on the lees. A sophisticated sparkler for the dinner table. (HH)
90 CHÂTEAU MONCONTOUR CUVÉE PRÉDILECTION BRUT 2012, VOUVRAY AC METHODE TRADITIONELLE, FRANCE ($29.99) Made entirely from Chenin Blanc grapes, this attractive sparkler spent 20 months in the bottle prior to dégorgement. It offers citrusy Chenin on the nose, toasty brioche notes, and finely balances rich creaminess, mineral and racy acidity. (SW)
89 JEAN-CLAUDE MAS PRIMA PERLA CHARDONNAY BLANC DE BLANCS BRUT TRADITIONAL BOTTLE-FERMENTED SPARKLING NV, LANGUEDOC, FRANCE ($19.99) Closely resembling Crémant de Limoux, this is an excellent value showing deep golden colour, rich citrus, floral and yeasty brioche, generous citrus flavour, creamy mousse, chalky mineral and bright, balancing acidity. (SW)
80-84 = Good 75-79 = Acceptable 70 & under = Below average *Available through wine clubs
89 ASTORIA CASA VITTORINO PROSECCO SUPERIORE VALDOBBIADENE DOCG BRUT NV, VENETO, ITALY ($23)
Straw yellow colour with a greenish hue. Opens with an intense, fruity bouquet with whiffs of floral and spice. Very fresh on the palate with an elegant mousse, balanced by savoury almond notes that linger on the finish. Well suited for apéritifs. (HH)
87 FOSS MARAI GUIA PROSECCO SUPERIORE VALDOBBIADENE DOCG BRUT 2012, VENETO, ITALY ($30)
Valdobbiadene is the northern, hilly part of the Prosecco wine region, and this vintage spumante captures characteristic scents of acacia flowers and fruit peel. Nice balance of fresh acidity, peachy fruit, lively mousse, off-dry sweetness and lingering lemon zest. A dinner-party apéritif. Serves with small pretzel bites or a simple bowl of nuts. (HH)
86 CA’ DI FRARA OLTRE IL CLASSICO CRUASÉ OLTREPÒ PAVESE DOCG PINOT NOIR BRUT NV, LOMBARDY, ITALY ($25) Cruasé is a bubbly made in the traditional method in Oltrepò Pavese. Made in a rosé style, so the skin contact gives it an orange-rose colour. Sports red berry-fruit aromas and flavours, with refreshing verve on the dry palate. Finishes with a bite of red apple skin. Enjoy with charcuterie or after dinner with a light dessert. (HH)
WHITE ARGENTINA 89 ALAMOS TORRONTÉS 2013, SALTA ($14.95)
Argentina can lay claim to a unique grape variety called Torrontés. It’s very much like a dry Muscat in style in that it has a highly perfumed bouquet of honeysuckle and ripe pears. It’s like biting into a Muscat grape straight out of the fridge. It makes a delicious apéritif wine or you can serve it with light curries or Asian dishes. (TA)
88 BODEGA FRANÇOIS LURTON PINOT GRIS 2013, VALLE DE UCO ($14.99)
This ever-reliable Pinot Gris shows delicate floral scents with lively green fruit and a light trace of green herb. Generous yellow and green fruit flavours come in a rounded texture with a suggestion of honey. Contrasting brisk acidity and gravelly mineral kick in on the finish. (SW)
AUSTRALIA 86 WOLF BLASS RED LABEL UNWOODED CHARDONNAY ($13.99)
Opens with aromatic citrus and tropical fruit scents following through with similar flavours, refreshing acidity and a touch of stony mineral on the palate. (SW) MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 55
NOTED AUSTRIA 88 RABL GRÜNER VELTLINER SPIEGEL 2013, KAMPTAL ($22.99) An elegant wine with lovely freshness, minerality, texture and vibrant acidity. Well balanced with a firm underlying backbone and well-integrated flavours of peach, grapefruit, white pepper and an earthy savouriness. Exercising just the right amount of restraint with hints of anise and savoury herbs on the focused finish. Very food-friendly and versatile, especially with Indian, Thai, Japanese and Mexican dishes. (GB)
CANADA 92 BACHELDER WISMER VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2012, TWENTY MILE BENCH ($44.95)
Of Bachelder’s two single-vineyard Chardonnays, it is this one that shows the best in warm vintages, as was the case in 2012. Medium to full body, the aromas of toast, apple, roasted hazelnut, baked apple and spice mesh with cream and citrus on the long aftertaste. Hold until 2016 and then drink until 2020. (ES)
91 VINELAND ESTATES ELEVATION RIESLING 2008, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT ($30)
For me, 2008 was one of the best vintages ever for Riesling in Niagara. That said, Brian Schmidt, Vineland’s winemaker, saw something special in this wine, and decided to age a few cases so as to allow nuance to develop in the bottle — a judicious call! Perfumed, the bergamot, honey, peach, lime, crushed rock and white flowers beguile. The balance, crisp acidity, concentration and a long finale will ensure another decade of aging, at least. If you are a Riesling lover, do not miss out on this beauty! (ES)
91 BACHELDER SAUNDERS CHARDONNAY 2012, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($44.95)
Possessing a moderate 12.5% alcohol, this Chard reveals a bouquet of banana, 56 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
peach, caramel, toast and cinnamon apples. Further complexity arrives in the form of minerals, earth and anise on the ongoing finale. Drink over the next 3 to 4 years. (ES)
90 ROSEWOOD SELECT SERIES SÉMILLON 2013, NIAGARA ($18)
Sadly, this is the last vintage of Rosewood’s remarkable Sémillon; the vineyard was wiped out by the Polar Vortex episode during the winter of 2014 in Ontario. The nose shows lovely notes of pear, honeysuckle, melon, crisp apple and acacia blossoms. It is bright and lively on the palate with citrus, melon and gooseberry flavours in a perfectly balanced package. (RV)
90 MIKE WEIR FAMILY VINEYARD LIMITED EDITION UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2012, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($19.95)
This non-forested Chardonnay offers up generous aromas of peach, honey, mango, banana, pineapple and sweet apple. The palate is ripe and concentrated, adding dashes of spice and cream, as well as a long finale. It is ready to drink tonight with a fillet of mahi mahi topped with a fruit salsa or roast chicken. (ES)
87 SPERLING VINEYARDS THE MARKET WHITE 2013, VQA OKANAGAN VALLEY ($19.99)
A blend of several white viniferas with lively aromatic floral and fruity perfume, and an array of green and yellow fruit flavours finishing off-dry. Ideal as an apéritif. (SW)
CHILE 88 ERRAZURIZ MAX RESERVA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2013, ACONCAGUA VALLEY ($15.95)
An enticing Sauvignon from Chile. Grassy, green-bean nose and flavours of grapefruit and lime with a minerally, salty note, finishing crisply dry. A wine for seafood or vegetarian dishes. (TA)
FRANCE 95 DOMAINE BILLARD CLOS LA TRUFFIÈRE AOC SAINT-ROMAIN 2012 ($23.33)
Clear medium-deep gold. Smells like a blend of Granny Smith and McIntosh apples with fresh tea in the background. Full bodied, well balanced with rich flavours of ripe apples. Went very well with roast goose accompanied by dumplings and sauerkraut with bacon and onions. (RL)*
94 VINCENT DAUVISSAT CHABLIS LA FOREST 2011 ($74)
Wow! An extraordinary Premier Cru that will enthrall you and put you under its spell. It is pure magic with a nose of salty sea breeze, crushed oyster shells, river stones and chalky minerality with white flowers, fresh lemon and dried herbs. It has persistence on the palate but dances lightly, deliberately, releasing its flavours of citrus and lime peel in layers as the utterly profound minerality washes over everything. This is all that Chablis can be, yet few achieve. Brilliant. (RV)
89 DOMAINE MUR-MUR-IUM ROUSSANNE VAUCLUSE 2012, CÔTES DU VENTOUX ($36) Bright and luscious with floral aromas, concentrated flavours of quince, peach and melon accented by rich, spicy notes, and great balance. (GB)
89 PAUL PILLOT CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET LES MAZURES 2009, BURGUNDY ($54)
A nose of apple brittle, creamy pear, citrus, minerals, butterscotch cream and a note of anise. It has power and grip on the palate with pear-apple fruit, a healthy dose of oak spices and a smoky-charry, perhaps bitter, note on the finish. (RV)
88 DOMAINE MUR-MUR-IUM VIOGNIER VAUCLUSE 2013, CÔTES DU VENTOUX ($25) Lovely, fresh, pure and well-defined with apple, apricot, plum and pear flavours, full texture, bright mineral notes and a long, focused finish. (GB)
87 TERRA BURDIGALA F THIENPONT SAUVIGNON BLANC 2012, BORDEAUX AC ($18.99)
Opens with distinct Sauvignon varietal grassy scents accented by lightly pungent herbal notes and clean fresh citrus-led green fruit on the palate. Finishes bone dry with very crisp acidity. (SW)
87 DOMAINE MUR-MUR-IUM LE RETOUR ROSÉ 2013, CÔTES DU VENTOUX ($20)
Fresh and deliciously quaffable with watermelon, strawberry, rose water, savoury notes and fresh acidity. Nothing complicated, but easy, well made and a good value. (GB)
ITALY 89 SAN RAFFAELE MONTE TABOR SOAVE 2013, VENETO ($14)
Made from organic Garganega grapes, the nose displays refreshing citrus, white flowers, almond paste, melon and soft peach notes. It’s a perfect spring white with flavours of lemon, grapefruit and a slight creamy note on a zestyzingy frame. (RV)
88 VILLA SANDI PINOT GRIGIO 2012, VENETO IGT ($16.99)
This cool-climate Pinot Grigio offers delicate floral and ripe green apple character, good mineral grip and crisply refreshing acidity. Not overstated, with refined simplicity making it easy to pair with a variety of lighter seafood, white meat and cream-based pasta dishes. (SW)
SOUTH AFRICA 88 DOUGLAS GREEN SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, COASTAL REGION ($10.80)
South Africa offers some great values these days. Pale lemon in colour with a bouquet of apple, lime, herbs and green pepper. It’s medium bodied, dry with citrus and melon flavours. The kind of wine that goes well with sushi, Caesar salad or goat’s cheese. (TA)
ARGENTINA 88 MAIPE RESERVE BONARDA 2012, MENDOZA ($16)
A rustic nose of anise, smoke, blackberries and violets. It’s quite smooth on the palate with smoky dark fruits, savoury spices and good balancing acidity. (RV)
UNITED STATES
CANADA
91 GIRARD CHARDONNAY 2012, SONOMA ($26.95)
93 PILLITTERI RISERVA FAMIGLIA CABERNET FRANC 2010, NIAGARA ($78)
This is a full-blown Chardonnay in true California style. Straw in colour with an intense, lifted tropical-fruit nose and nicely integrated oak. Rich and full on the palate with full-bodied, nutty, toasty flavours finishing on a lingering tangerine note. (TA)
86 HAYES VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2012, CENTRAL COAST ($19)
Lean and juicy with pear, citrus and melon flavours, a hint of grassiness and a bit of a spicy edge; finishes a little hot. Decent value. (GB)
85 CAMBRIDGE AND SUNSET CHARDONNAY 2011, CALIFORNIA ($15.50)
PORTUGAL
Clear medium gold. Medium-intensity nose of citrus and bruised apple with a bit of asparagus. Medium bodied with low acidity and prominent alcohol around general citrus and stone-fruit flavours with a bit of oak. Drink up. (RL)*
88 SERRA VINHO VERDE DOC NV ($10.42)
85 HAYES VALLEY CHARDONNAY 2012, MONTEREY COUNTY ($19)
Clear light gold with a slight, refreshing fizz. Medium-intensity nose of melon, pineapple and Granny Smith apple with a bit of spice. Light-bodied and light-alcohol with lime, lemon and some melon flavours. A wine for the spring and summer. (RL)*
RED
Fresh and lively with apple, peach and citrus aromas and flavours. Initially gives the indication that it will be simple and quaffable, but unnecessary sweetness takes over and takes away from what could and should be a good value. A case where less would be more. (GB)
This is made in the appassimento style, with the grapes dried for 26 days and the wine aged in French oak for 24 months. It shows powerful, concentrated aromas of dark fruits, smoke, sweet tobacco, bramble and forest floor. It is big on the palate, at 15% alcohol, with smoky dark fruits, plums and spice in a persistent attack that shows length through the finish. This is just beginning to show its stuff, so cellar 10 to 15 years. (RV)
92 HAYWIRE CANYONVIEW VINEYARD RAISED IN CONCRETE PINOT NOIR 2012, OKANAGAN ($40) Aged in old oak barriques then moved into egg-shaped concrete tanks for further aging. Lovely colour and a nose of penetrating cherry, raspberry and bramble with clove and spice accents. It’s pure on the palate with gorgeous texture and flavours of cran-cherry, cassis and savoury-spicy notes. A beautiful Pinot Noir. (RV)
90 VANESSA SYRAH 2012, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($39)
Co-fermented with 6% Viognier and aged 18 months in American and French oak (60% new). Floral and cedar scents bolt from the glass. Loads of black fruits, leather, chocolate and white-pepper flavour. Plush tannins. Finishes with violets, spice and smoky oak. Suited for full-on BBQ treatment. (HH) MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 57
NOTED 89 VINELAND ESTATES CABERNET BO-TEEK VINEYARD 2012, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT ($25)
This blend of 80% Cabernet Franc and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon doles out smoky tobacco, cassis, violets, cocoa, toast, graphite and a slight animal quality. The palate is ripe with lots of fine tannins, fresh acid and great length. Drink until 2021. (ES)
89 VANESSA MERITAGE 2012, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($36)
These rocky hillside estate grapes (50% Cab Sauv, 27% Merlot, 23% Cab Franc) saw a mix of French and American oak (60% new). Bold floral, dark fruit and sweet tobacco aromas. Mouth-filling, full-bodied palate, rich with cassis, cocoa and fig, and finishing with spice and sweet vanilla. Hold to integrate the ripe tannins. (HH)
88 LAKEVIEW CELLARS SYRAH/ CABERNET 2012, ONTARIO ($14.95)
Ontario’s 2012 vintage produced many well-concentrated red wines thanks to a glorious growing season. A good example is this Syrah/Cabernet blend. Deep ruby in colour, the wine offers a bouquet of blackberry and currants with a rose petal note; creamy on the palate, it has well extracted fruit and a dry finish. (TA)
88 PELLER ESTATES PRIVATE RESERVE MERITAGE 2012, NIAGARA ($22.95)
This delightful Meritage spent 12 months in a combination of French and American barrels, of which 20% were new. It serves up plum, cherry, cocoa, spice, earth and floral notes on a smooth-as-silk texture. Very good length and ready to drink. (ES)
CHILE 90 CONCHA Y TORO SERIE RIBERAS GRAN RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, CENTRAL VALLEY ($17.95)
This is a great example of the new style of Chilean Cabs with its restraint and el58 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
egance. Deep ruby in colour, the nose has an intriguing floral note above the blackcurrant and spicy oak. Lovely mouthfeel and a firm finish. (TA)
FRANCE 91 CHÂTEAU CLOS FLORIDÈNE 2010, GRAVES ($29.85)
A classic Graves claret in contemporary styling. Dense purple-ruby colour with a bouquet of cedar, cassis and vanilla oak. Well-extracted fruit flavours and well proportioned. (TA)
91 DOMAINE GALAMAN FITOU 2013, LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON ($17)
This is a blend of Carignan, Grenache and Syrah with a lovely nose of meaty/earthy red fruits, forest floor and sweet spices. The interesting dark fruits on the palate are bold, intense and juicy with firm tannins and expressive spice notes. (RV)
91 CHÂTEAU BELLE-VUE 2010, HAUT-MÉDOC, BORDEAUX ($33)
This is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 20% Petit Verdot. A real bargain at this price, with a nose of ripe cassis compote and currants, and a touch of raspberry, forest floor, oak spice and bramble. It is thick and ripe on the palate with dark berries, concentrated cherry-raspberry, toasted spices and soft, rounded tannins. (RV)
90 CHÂTEAU BEAUSEJOUR HOSTENS 2010, HAUT-MÉDOC ($22) A delicious claret from a terrific vintage at a great price. Dense purple in colour with a nose of cedar, blackcurrant and vanilla oak. Medium bodied, dry, elegant and beautifully balanced with great structure. (TA)
89 FLACHER SAINT JOSEPH AC 2008 ($22)
Clear deep plum colour. Restrained nose of black pepper, wood, cherry and blackberry. On the palate, it is full bodied, tasting of uncomplex fresh black cherry and other dark berries. The tannins are soft; this is at its peak now. (RL)*
89 BRUNEL PÈRE ET FILS BRUNEL DE LA GARDINE 2012, CROZES-HERMITAGE, RHÔNE ($24)
Full ruby. Classic nose of blackberries, hints of smoke and black olives. Full body; grainy texture wrapped in fruity extract. Balanced acidity. Round finish of good length highlighting a precise dark cherry note. (GBQc)
89 CHÂTEAU DU CARTILLON CRU BOURGEOIS 2011, HAUT-MÉDOC AOP ($33.29)
Although somewhat closed, this well-crafted Cru Bourgeois does reveal red and dark fruit with a touch of tannic astringency on the nose and good depth of fruit in the mouth. Tannins and acidity need time to soften and integrate more fully. Nonetheless, this is a solid value. Give it 3-plus years in the cellar. (SW)
89 DOMAINE MUR-MUR-IUM SYRAH SUBLIME VIN DE PAYS 2011, CÔTES DU VENTOUX ($36) Silky and refined, with perfumey black tea, white pepper and violet notes backed by a core of supple blackberry, blackcurrant, liquorice and earth. Good length and focus. Great with roast or grilled meats. (GB)
88 BOISSONNEAU LE GEAL 5 GRAPES 2011, CÔTES-DU-MARMANDAIS ($16.99)
From a lesser-known region southwest of Bordeaux. The 5 grapes include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc and Merlot together with Syrah and local variety Abouriou. The result is harmoniously balanced with generous red and dark fruit, supple tannins and attractive spice. (SW)
88 PIERRE AMADIEU ROULEPIERRE 2011, CÔTES DU RHÔNE AC ($17.29)
Opens with raspberry, redcurrant, a whiff of herb and lightly peppery spice on the nose, shifting to more dominant blackberry in the mouth with raspberry playing second fiddle. Firm tannic structure, food-friendly acidity and dry savoury notes make this moderately complex wine one of the best Southern Rhône offerings in this price range. (SW)
GERMANY 93 SELBACH-OSTER ZELTINGER RIESLING AUSLESE 2012, SONNENUHR, MOSEL ($36)
Pale yellow, green reflections. Lots of finesse on the mineral nose with notes of conifer and citrus. Very light, elegant; light acidity, ethereal mid-palate even if it’s off-dry. Very long, persistent finish. Excellent. (GBQc)
89 PLOB CLIFFHANGER RIESLING SPÄTLESE 2013, MOSEL ($18)
Very pale; green tint on the rim. Fine nose of green apple, conifer, mineral notes. Very light, refreshing; distinguished delicate flavour and light acidic lift. (GBQc)
ITALY 98 ANTINORI SOLAIA 2009, IGT TOSCANA ($246)
Very dark colour. Deep, complex nose of small red and black fruits, obvious, but not overpowering, luxurious oak, notes of spices and delicate red flowers. A silky feeling on first contact is followed by a very tight, full-bodied yet caressing mid-palate, as rich and elegant as can be. Neverending finish. A knockout wine. (GBQc)
95 ANTINORI TIGNANELLO 2010, IGT TOSCANA ($100) Very dark ruby. Deep nose of red fruits, imposing oak notes and hints of kirsch, spices. Silky at first, it shows its power in the intense mid-palate that always remains soft and rich, even voluptuous. Racy finish lifted by fine acidity. Should peak around 2025. (GBQc)
92 LOACKER CORTE PAVONE 2008, BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO TOSCANA ($62) Garnet colour. Dried fruits and plums on a nose that shows a great deal of finesse. Light to medium body, silky texture but with an underlying firmness in the soft tannins. Overall very elegant, its flavour has an impressive freshness that surprises given the rather evolved nose. (GBQc)
92 COL D’ORCIA POGGIO AL VENTO RISERVA 2006, BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO TOSCANA ($121)
Brownish colour. Great finesse on the nose: red flowers, balsamic and cookedfruits notes. An impression of thickness and fullness in the mouth; chewy, fleshy tannins, tender and firm at the same time. Tight, balanced finish, maybe a tad warm. (GBQc)
91 BEL COLLE NEBBIOLO D’ALBA DOC 2010 ($18.17)
Medium-deep garnet colour with suspended fine particles. Smells like an Italian dessert: cherries with amaretto and caramel accents, opening up later in the glass to stewed fruit aromas. Medium-bodied with cherry and chocolate flavours well balanced by the acidity, alcohol and still vigorous tannins. At its peak now and for the next year or two. (RL)
91 ANTINORI LA BRACCESCA 2009, VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO, TOSCANA ($25.50)
Ruby-garnet colour. Signs of evolution appear on the nose: declining red fruit notes, kirsch, complex tertiary aromas. Soft and supple texture, tender tannins, delicate acidity and a touch warm. Overall, well-balanced and ready to drink. (GBQc)
91 VILLA DI MASER MONTELLO E COLLI ASOLANI DOC CARMÉNÈRE 2008, VENETO ($27)
Chile’s famed grape is known as the “Cabernet of Veneto” and was first planted here in the 19th century, with cuttings from Bordeaux. Classic herbal, spicy, smoky aromas. More smoke and spice on the palate, with bushels of tobacco action, along with red fruits and balanced by firm acidity, fine tannins and 13% alcohol. Very elegant yet complex. (HH)
91 MARCHESE ANTINORI RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2010, TOSCANA ($30)
Full ruby. Distinguished, pure nose of red fruits with a floral touch. Balanced on the palate, fine tannins, discreet acidity and
adequate fruit. Long finish. Overall an elegant wine that drinks well now and for the next 8 to 10 years. (GBQc)
91 BERTANI VILLA ARVEDI AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA 2010, VERONA ($39) Dark colour. Warm nose of cooked fruits, smoked meat. Very ripe taste; concentrated, thick mid-palate; no detectable residual sugar, as is often the case with Amarone. The finely grained tannins show their firmness in the finish. (GBQc)
91 FONTANAFREDDA BAROLO SERRALUNGA D’ALBA 2010 ($39.95) A wonderful perfume of dark chocolate, plum, dark cherry, violets, leather, tobacco smoke and spice beguile the senses. It is full-ish with ample persistency and Nebbiolo tannins rounding out the experience. Braised lamb shank required. Time frame: 15 years of cellaring. (ES)
91 ANTINORI BADIA A PASSIGNANO CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2008, TOSCANA ($43)
Ruby colour. Ripe and precise nose of red berries with well-balanced oak. Intense in the mouth, yet balanced. It is tight and firm with supple tannins that turn a bit rough in the very long finish. A top-quality Chianti that will be upgraded to the Gran Selezione level starting with the 2009. (GBQc)
91 ACCORDINI STEFANO VIGNETO IL FORNETTO AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOC CLASSICO 2006, VENETO ($120)
Only made in the best vintages, the grapes are sourced from their well-drained terraced vineyard. It’s made in a modern style with seductive richness, concentration and 16.5% alcohol. Floral, black fruits and spice notes from aromatic start to its long, clean finish. Drinking well now. (HH)
90 BUSCAGLIA TABAR VINO DA TAVOLA ROSSO 2006, LOMBARDY ($30)
Fragrant violets on the nose with ripe black-cherry flavour on the rich palate MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 59
NOTED and lingering spice, tobacco and a hint of balsamic on the finish. A solidly built structure supported by intense, powerful tannins that need a few more years to soften. Made from the Croatina grape. (HH)
without finesse. Medium bodied with a tender mid-palate of adequate fruity taste and a good roundness. Slightly warm in the finish. A different style that may not appeal to everyone. (GBQc)
90 ABBONA DI ABBONA LA PIEVE BAROLO 2010, PIEDMONT ($31.95)
89 BERTANI SECCO 2012, IGT VERONA ($18)
Although this Barolo is showing some maturity in its colour (ruby with brick rim), it is still youthful and needs at least 5 years cellaring. Its dry cherry nose is augmented with a light floral note and a thread of minerality. Dry, elegant and firmly structured, it should be magnificent with some bottle age. (TA)
90 MARCHESI DI BAROLO 2010 ($34)
This mid-weight red delivers cherry, vanilla, spice, cocoa and violets on the nose, which transitions to the palate and melds with a long raspberry-cream finish. Tannins are in proportion and there is splendid persistency. A Barolo to be drunk over the next decade. (ES)
90 TENUTE SILVIO NARDI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2009, TOSCANA ($49)
Garnet with brownish rim. The nose evokes a mature wine, notes of withered flowers, aged oak contrasted by hints of menthol and vanilla. It seems only medium bodied at most but there is an underlying power and firmness in the tight tannic backbone. Elegant in its own way. Drink soon. (GBQc)
90 VIETTI BAROLO CASTIGLIONE 2010 ($59.95)
This wine is still shy right now; given its track record and underlying density, it will open up and start to strut its stuff by 2017 and then should be drunk until 2028. Strawberry, cherry, rose petals, liquorice, tar and herbs weave together on the medium body. Excellent length. (ES)
90 BANFI POGGIO ALLE MURA RISERVA 2007, BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO TOSCANA ($95)
Brownish colour. Baked fruits, molasses. An obvious lack of freshness but not 60 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
Ruby purplish. Pleasant, simple nose of red fruits with well-dosed oak. Supple and balanced, it drinks easily thanks to its perfectly ripe fruit flavour. Made from Corvina grapes with 20% Merlot. Drink up. (GBQc)
89 FONTANAFREDDA BAROLO 2010 ($30)
This is probably the best bang-for-thebuck Barolo you will ever come across. Not a powerhouse, but a good mouthful of cherry, liquorice, dried flowers, spice and chestnut. Solid length and tannins. Drink until 2020. It is made for osso bucco and harder, saltier cheeses. (ES)
89 ASCHERI BAROLO PISAPOLA 2010 ($44.95)
This wine is a solid Nebbiolo offering, but not of the elite status. Strawberry, earth and dried flowers are present. It is midweight with a lean structure and very good length. Tannins dive in on the finish, but based on the depth of the wine, my suggestion would be to drink it over the next 8 to 10 years. (ES)
88 TENUTA CHICCHERI VIGNETO DI CAMPO DELLE STRIE VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO DOC SUPERIORE 2011, VENETO ($39)
A mix of Corvina, Rondinella and Croatina grapes made in the Ripasso method, which is the refermentation of the wine on the dried grape skins of Amarone. Floral and red fruits on the nose and the soft palate. The tannins are dry, but the ripe fruit and 15.5% alcohol conveys some sweetness. Suited for roasted meats. (HH)
88 RECCHIA CA’ BERTOLDI AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOC CLASSICO 2007, VENETO ($50)
The small, hillside Ca’ Bertoldi vineyard has
chalk and volcanic soil, lending the wine some intense minerality. Generous aromas of ripe berries and oaky spice. Very rich and full bodied on the palate, with powerful tannins and lingering tar and mineral. Will develop for another 10 years. (HH)
84 TERRENOSTRE DOLCETTO D’ALBA DOC 2011 ($14.17)
Clear deep plum red. Medium intensity; simple nose of raspberry, liquorice and spice. Light bodied with tannins almost gone. Light flavours of assorted red berries and good acidity. Drink up. (RL)*
NEW ZEALAND 88 OYSTER BAY MERLOT 2012, HAWKE’S BAY ($21.99)
Opens with ripe plum and rich earthy, herbal, vanilla-accented spice on the nose. Sweet dark plum and cherry in the mouth. Bright fresh fruit and lively acidity reveal cool-climate origins. (SW)
SOUTH AFRICA 89 BOEKENHOUTSKLOOF THE WOLF TRAP SYRAH/MOURVÈDRE/ VIOGNIER 2013, FRANSCHHOEK VALLEY ($13.95)
When it comes to quality for the price, you can’t beat this wine. For $13.95 you get a deep purple wine with a savoury-herbal bouquet of black fruits. The wine is full bodied and dry with peppery blackcurrant and blackberry flavours. Perfect for any spicy red meat dishes. (TA)
SPAIN 91 CLOS MONTBLANC MERLOT DO CONCA DE BARBERÀ 2008 ($13.25)
Clear deep garnet colour. Fairly intense nose of cherry and milk chocolate with some earthy background. Full bodied, exhibiting good raspberry and cherry fruit with refreshing acidity and palatable tannins. Good value. Drink up. (RL)*
90 DOMINIO DOSTARES ESTAY PRIETO PICUDO 2011, CASTILLA Y LEÓN ($16)
Concentrated raspberry, cherry, currants and lavish spices on the nose of this very different Spanish red. In the mouth, look for full-on red fruit, blueberries, raspberry jam and spices with good tannic grip and length. (RV)
89 ALCEÑO PREMIUM 50 BARRICAS SYRAH 2012, JUMILLA ($13.95) This is a deep purple/ruby-coloured wine (Syrah and Mourvèdre) with a nose of blackberries and smoked meat. It’s dry, full-bodied with juicy fruit and a savoury finish. It’s great value at the price. (TA)
88 CAMPO VIEJO RESERVA 2008, RIOJA ($18)
Medium ruby. Appealing nose of raspberry, black cherry and vanilla. Velvety texture, chewy but slightly grainy tannic backbone. Nothing complex, but a pleasant fruity taste and a somewhat short finish. Drink now. (GBQc)
UNITED STATES 89 RENWOOD BBQ ZINFANDEL 2011, CALIFORNIA ($23.99)
87 HAYES VALLEY MERLOT 2012, CENTRAL COAST ($19)
Soft, juicy and user-friendly with pleasant ripe, fruity flavours of cherry and plum, little tannin and an easy, juicy finish. Simple, good balance and a good value. (GB)
DESSERT 94 OPIMIAN LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE PORT, 2007, PORTUGAL ($20.67)
Deep plum red with fine particles in suspension and some sediment. Aromas of fig, raisin, hazelnut and some seductive floral accents. Full bodied and rich, tasting like a fruitcake with good acidity and soft tannins. At or near its peak now. (RL)*
91 JACKSON-TRIGGS GRAND RESERVE CABERNET FRANC ICEWINE 2012, NIAGARA ($59.95/375 ML)
Copious amounts of strawberry and cherry jam, raisins, plums and cocoa leap out of the glass and onto the taste buds. It is luscious with excellent length. A topnotch stickie! (ES)
Has all the characteristics of a quality Zinfandel without being overdone, over-extracted and over-alcoholic like so many Zins from the sunshine state. Lovely aromas and flavours of brambly blackberry and raspberry with hints of spice and smoke, finishing with black pepper and juicy fruit. A great wine for beef and pork, but also elegant enough for grilled salmon, earthy vegetarian dishes and slightly spicy cuisine. (GB)
90 PELLER ESTATES SIGNATURE SERIES RIESLING ICEWINE 2013, NIAGARA ($72/375 ML)
87 HAYES VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, CENTRAL COAST ($19)
Made from 100% Moscato, it sports a golden hue, a modest 5.5% alcohol and a well-balanced sweetness. Honey blossoms and spice aromas. Rich and lively palate with intense fruit flavours. Finishes clean, sweet, spicy and refreshing. Great way to end a meal. (HH)
Flavourful and fruity with fresh blackberry, currant and cherry flavours, and aromas of wildberries, a touch of mocha and vanilla. Softly tannic, well-balanced and juicy finish. (GB)
88 QUAQUARINI FRANCESCO SANGUE DI GIUDA DELL’OLTREPÒ PAVESE DOC DOLCE 2012, LOMBARDY, ITALY ($19) Deep purple colour fitting for a wine called “Blood of Judas.” Well-balanced sweetness with a gulpable 6% alcohol. Intensely aromatic and gushing with grapeyness, juiciness and bowls of mixed berries. There’s a spicy core wrapped in complex savouriness. A perfect foil for fruity desserts with milk chocolate. (HH)
87 PIERROTS VINO DA LIVE STRAMATURE PASSITO NV, VAL D’AOSTA, ITALY ($20)
Intense floral, blueberry and raspberry aromas and flavours. Sweet and fortified to 16% alcohol, with a rich tangy texture. Finishes with some lingering sweet tannins. Suited to pair with dense chocolate cakes. It’s recommended to serve at 20˚C, but I preferred cellar temperature. (HH)
BEER ST BERNARDUS WIT BELGIAN TRAPPIST BEER, BELGIUM ($4.99/330 ML)
This is a refined Icewine with a personality of honey-macerated peach, lime, minerals, petrol and wet leaves. Excellent length and a wonderful acidity provide grace and symmetry. (ES)
Shows typical hazy wheat beer appearance with a persistent frothy head and lightly sour milk aroma. Indistinct fruity, malty and spicy overtones. Lightly sweet citrus evolves toward nutty malt character with citrus notes reappearing on the finish. Try with tacos and burritos. (SW)
89 QUAQUARINI FRANCESCO MOSCATO OLTREPÒ PAVESE DOC, LOMBARDY, ITALY ($25)
GOLDEN PHEASANT ORIGINAL SLOVAK LAGER BEER, SLOVAKIA ($4.99/500 ML)
Brewed with all natural ingredients, this light amber-coloured brew shows a lightly frothy persistent head with a gentle nutty malt aroma and background hoppy scent. Dry malt with a touch of fruit flavour comes in a well-balanced creamy textured package with bitter hop character on the finish. (SW) MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 61
WELL NOTED PICAROONS BLONDE ALE, NORTHAMPTON BREWING, FREDERICTON, NB ($3.90/500 ML)
88 MATUA PINOT NOIR 2012, MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND ($19.99)
Blond-coloured and slightly hazy appearance suggests the beer is unfiltered. Appealingly subtle floral and yellow fruit scents shift to citrus and dry nutty malt flavours with emphatic hoppy bitterness on the finish. A solid, flavourful brew. (SW)
Enticing scents of ripe strawberry and spice lead into strawberry and red cherry flavours with a splash of milk chocolate and vanilla in the mouth. Lightly dry tannins and lively acidity bring harmonious balance to the finish. (SW)
88 SUE-ANN STAFF WINERY FANCY FARM GIRL FRIVOLOUS WHITE 2012, ONTARIO ($14.95) Winemaker Sue-Ann Staff has a lot of fun naming her wines. This wine is a companion to Fancy Farm Girl Flamboyant Red. The white is a Riesling offering a citrus and crabapple nose with a petrol note. It’s an off-dry, aromatic, easy-drinking wine with a soft mouthfeel. (TA)
87 WOLF BLASS RED LABEL SHIRAZ/CABERNET 2013, AUSTRALIA ($15.99)
90 RODNEY STRONG RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2012, SONOMA, UNITED STATES ($44.95)
Ripe red fruit scents with a pinch of spice lead the way for blackberry and raspberry flavours backed by firm tannins and a splash of dark chocolate on the finish. Well-made, reliable quality. (SW)
If you’re looking for power, this is the wine for you. Straw-coloured, the bouquet is spicy barnyard with evident oak. Full-bodied on the palate (and more expressive than the nose), the flavours of spicy green pineapple envelope the palate and linger long. (TA)
94 DOMAINE BERTHET-RAYNE CAIRANNE 2012, AOC CÔTESDU-RHÔNE VILLAGES, FRANCE ($21.83)
A clear medium-deep brass colour. Nose features apricot, peach and banana aromas with a light touch of oak. Very full-bodied with luscious dried peach, apple and honey flavours, but completely dry. A slight bitterness on the long finish. A white wine for red wine drinkers. (RL)*
62 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
90 ANSELMANN RIESLING AUSLESE 2012, PFALZ, GERMANY ($19.95)
Great value here. Golden straw in colour with a bouquet of honey and peach with mineral notes. Mediumbodied and medium sweet, well-balanced honey and grapefruit flavours with abundant length. (TA)
ST GEORGES DRY RYE GIN, CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES ($50)
A very interesting twist to the traditional gin. Distilled using rye instead of a more neutral spirit. The rye adds a malty touch to the up-front juniper. Add to that a light candied mid-palate with grapefruit and burnt citrus. If you love whiskey but aren't too particular about your gin, it's definitely worth a try. (JS)
AVID BY SILVANA LAU
GO LOW
“ANOTHER GLASS OF WINE?” It’s a common question asked by a gracious host, or an attentive server. But when it’s my mother, “another glass of wine!” is not a question (note the exclamation mark). More a statement of shock rather than a possible offering. My mother is advising, in a not-too-subtle way, that I stop at one glass then put a cork in it. “Mother knows best,” as the saying goes. Yet not being a drinker, Ma probably does not know best when it comes to food and wine enjoyment. Suggesting to an oenophile like me that I shouldn’t refresh my glass during dinner is sacrilege. I might as well be having breakfast. So what’s this “grape nut” supposed to do? I suppose there are some options: a) only schedule breakfasts with mom; b) keep replenishing my glass (while trying to avoid Ma’s evil eye); or c) opt for low alcohol wine and keep it flowing. Low alcohol wine? You mean wimpy and diluted? Reality is that less alcohol does not mean less flavour. A good winemaker strives for flavour and balance, not brute power. By “low alcohol,” I’m not talking about artificially “dealcoholized” wines (Don’t. Ever. Buy. These.). I’m referring to wines that are naturally low in alcohol, not “man”-ipulated. These are (by my own definition) red wines that have an ABV (alcohol by volume) of less than 13 percent and less than 12 percent for whites. Here are three reasons why you should make the time for low octane wines:
#1 FOOD FRIENDLY
I’m a big fan of dishes sporting a spicy kick. What I’m not a big fan of is having my already tingling tongue cauterized by searing alcohol. In fact, the most “food friendly” wines tend to be relatively low in alcohol and fairly high in acidity. Lower alcohol won’t add unwanted heat and some acidic zip will cleanse the palate. Typically, “dry” wines have the highest alcohol content, since most of the grape sugars are converted to alcohol. Conversely, wines with more residual sugar tend to be lower in alcohol. Hence, low alcohol wines tend to taste sweeter, which (assuming the sweetness is balanced with acidity) makes them perfect for spicy foods. I’m mostly talking about white wines here, but red wines with a lower heat level and lively acidity also, in my experience, turn out to be the best dinner partners.
#2 CONSUME MORE, PAY LESS (THE NEXT MORNING)
From a five percent ABV sweet Moscato d’Asti to a 15.5 percent Aussie Shiraz, natural wine levels can vary significantly. In fact, it’s even common to see wines with an ABV of more than 16 percent. These are called “sleep aids.” The problem with them, though, is the risk of overdose — then trying to be productive when (if ) you wake up.
Lighter-bodied wines with lower alcohol can be enjoyed in larger quantities than their counterparts without the debilitating after effects. In other words, you can have two glasses of German Riesling Kabinett (at eight percent or less ABV) or just one glass of 14.5 percent palate tranquilizing California Chardonnay. The old adage that two is better than one certainly holds true in this case (I just have to convince Ma of this).
#3 YOUR WAISTLINE WILL THANK YOU
Here’s a simple equation: lower ABV wines = less calories = healthier lifestyle choice. Summer is around the corner … so are bathing suits. “Ma,” I would say, if I had even the slightest inclination she would listen, “if we are going to be frolicking on the beach together, light and fresh wines are the way to go. We can work on our tans while sipping a glass or two of vino (or vinho, as in light and spritzy, Vinho Verde), and still be functional human beings by the time dinner rolls around.” Well, at least I’m convinced! With a growing trend toward low alcohol wines, dialing back is the new amping up. Perhaps my mother does know best; at least she got me thinking about the strength of the wine I drink, if not the quantity. So if I “go for low,” I can enjoy another drink without feeling cloudy the next morning. And I can’t wait MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 63
to go to the beach in my new sundress (it finally fits). More importantly, I have a greater appreciation for balance, poise and flavour harmony in my wines. So Ma, I raise my glass to you (don’t worry, it’s Moscato d’Asti) … Salut!
WHITE CHÂTEAU MONTGUÉRET CRÉMANT DE LOIRE BRUT NV ($20) You can usually count on bubblies to be fairly low octane. This Loire valley beauty just hits 12 percent. Smells like a summer garden (acacia?) combined with marzipan and toasted almond. Ultra refreshing, with fine bubbles, white peach and a crisp, dry, clean finish. A great apéritif … actually, great anytime.
BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS PETIT CHABLIS 2013 ($21) Yeah, okay, so it’s a “baby” Chablis from the outskirts of the region. But this girl’s got a lot of what her big sisters have. Lemony, chalky with some slightly briny/oyster shell aromas that get the mouth watering. Zippy and zesty with refreshing citrus flavours…where are my oysters?!
JAFFELIN BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ 2013 ($17) Aligoté is Burgundy’s “other” white grape variety. Lots of golden apple with a hint of honey and spring flowers on the nose. It’s light with refreshing citrus and apple flavours. Add a dash of cassis for a classic kir.
JOSEF DRATHEN RHEINHESSEN GEWÜRZTRAMINER KABINETT 2013 ($13) Wow! Smells like rose bushes after a spring rain — with some lychee, dusted with nutmeg and clove, thrown in. Just barely sweet, it’s packed with exotic fruit flavours and some mild spice notes. Could work well with hard-to-match Asian dishes that pack a bit of both sweetness and spice.
BATASIOLO MOSCATO D’ASTI BOSC DLA REI NV ($15) At 5.5 percent alcohol, this super-fun Italian makes for a great mid-afternoon sipper … or maybe even with some freshly sliced peaches in a tall flute for 64 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
brunch. Apricot, orange zest, white flowers and toasted hazelnut lead to gently sweet, honeyed, apricot jam flavours. More, please!
GAZELA VINHO VERDE NV ($10) A fresh seafood salad, a bottle of Gazela, and a nice spot by the lake. The perfect summer day! Lighthearted citrus and mineral aromas, a slight spritz to cleanse the palate and only 9 percent alcohol. Kinda like a serious wine spritzer!
INNISKILLIN DISCOVERY SERIES BOTRYTIS EFFECTED VIOGNIER 2013 ($40/375 ML) OMG … this rocks! Lovely, spicy, candied apricot, tangerine peel, rosewater, honey. Sweet and silky in the mouth, but with great balancing acidity and loads of spice, marmalade, honey and orange blossom. I love Viognier, but can’t say I’ve ever had one quite like this!
RED MASI BONACOSTA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2013 ($15) Valpolicella and Bardolino are classic lighter Italian reds. Typical herbal/cherry aromas, but there’s also a certain funkiness that reminds me a bit of truffle, amaro and black olive tapenade. Light and bright with earthy black cherry flavour. Perfect pizza wine!
VILLA PONCIAGO BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES 2012 ($13) Beaujolias is the king of French light reds. The “villages” designation notches up the intensity a bit. Yum! Strawberries and bubblegum with maybe a whiff of sandalwood. Lots of fresh, juicy, red berry fruit and a bare suggestion of fennel. The quintessential “bistro” wine. Chill and swill!
CHANSON PERE & FILS BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR 2012 ($22) So it ain’t La Tâche … but for just around $20 you get some honest-to-god Pinot Noir character. Classic aromas of cherry, raspberry, cedar, new leather and tobacco. Light to mid-weight with ripe berry fruit and a smidge of baking spice. Bring on the duck! ×
MAENAM, VANCOUVER, BC
Might be the best Thai food in North America. Dishes such as bay scallop ceviche, eight-spice lingcod, aromatic curry of lamb shank and duck breast in red curry possess a purity and depth of flavours. A killer wine program and knowledgeable, friendly staff help to elevate the experience.
BAR BRICCO, EDMONTON, AB
Inspired by the salumerias in Rome and spuntini (meaning tastes, bites or snacks) bars throughout Italy, the menu encourages tasting through its small plates and broad selection of salumi and cheese. The wine list is predominantly Italian and there is an extensive list of digestifs. The heart of the place is centred around the slicer, which drives the menu, and the turntable, which drives the atmosphere, with Costa at the helm of both. The beauty of Bar Bricco is its simplicity, accessibility and, above all, the quality. Costa understands the soul of Italian cuisine (and it’s not just because he’s Italian), and he’s not scrimping on the quality of his ingredients.
THE PURPLE PIG, CHICAGO, IL
The flavours are reminiscent of the tapas bars of Spain and stuzzichini bars of Italy. Pork-fried almonds, braised baby artichokes, olive oil–poached tuna, winter-squash arancini, milk-braised pork shoulder, porcini-stuffed quail, guinea hen cooked under a brick and an extensive selection of cheese and cured meats lend themselves to a delicious grazing experience. The perfect example of how simplicity can taste so good.
STATE BIRD PROVISIONS, SAN FRANCISCO, CA
Innovative, delicious and attentive service make this restaurant a home run. You can order off the menu, but the fun part is the abundance of roving dishes served dim sum–style. The steak tartare with sunchoke toast, State Bird with Provisions (buttermilk fried quail on the night we went), duck liver mousse with almond biscuit and guinea hen dumpling were all unique and delicious. Easy to understand the long lineups that form each night. ×
DAVINE BY GURVINDER BHATIA
IS FINE DINING REALLY DEAD?
IS FINE DINING REALLY DEAD OR HAS THE CONCEPT JUST CHANGED? Starched white tablecloths, fussy service,
fussy food, black tie–adorned waiters, stuffy, hushed dining rooms and some degree of pretense tend to fit, I would argue, within the realm of most people’s concept of fine dining. More and more restaurants — and chefs — appear to be gravitating towards informal service (is it possible to be proper without being pretentious?), casual atmosphere, no dress restrictions, communal seating, shared plates and family-style service. While the atmosphere and service may lean towards the informal, the quality of ingredients and attention to detail in the food remains paramount. Which begs the question: “Can a restaurant be casual and still be considered fine dining?” The answer undoubtedly depends on your definition of fine dining. Daniel Costa, chef/owner of the highly acclaimed Corso 32 and Bar Bricco in Edmonton, Alberta (neither of which Costa considers to be fine dining in the traditional sense despite the exceptional-quality food) sees fine dining as “having more to do with the service, atmosphere, music and space between tables versus the quality of the food. You have one person pouring your water, one person clearing your table, one person presenting your food, one person explaining your food, an elevated pillow for the lady’s purse, someone walking you to the washroom ...” Costa goes on to say, “If you are simply looking at the food quality as your judgement of what ‘fine dining’ is, then yes, you can absolutely eat it every day.” But ultimately, Costa believes the term refers to more than just the quality of the food. Perhaps the move towards casual, unstructured meals and tapas dining has been influenced by immigration and the family style of so many ethnic cultures. Costa’s concept of fine dining growing up (and I am sure he is not alone in this view) is related to French food. Growing up in an Italian household, he couldn’t imagine eating Italian meals in a delicate setting.
Indian, Thai, Malaysian, Chinese and so many other cuisines are traditionally served family-style. As these cuisines have become more popular globally (related directly to emigration) and elevated by chefs within their respective cultural communities (e.g. Vikram Vij as it relates to Indian cuisine), the lines between traditional fine dining and having a great experience have blurred. Contributing to the identity crisis is the rise in the quality of street food, food trucks, upscale fast-food establishments and hip, casual dining restaurants. You no longer have to dress up and take out a line of credit to eat well. Although casual dining isn’t necessarily inexpensive. The biggest change in “fine dining” may be accessibility. Being able to enjoy exceptional-quality food in a casual setting allows greater segments of the population to be exposed to the quality and style of food that, in the past, may have only been served in traditional “fine dining” restaurants. Perhaps the true modernization is to get past the labels and focus on the experience — exceptional-quality food, knowledgeable and customer-oriented service, quality beverage programs and great atmosphere. Each of the following five restaurants provides an exceptional dining experience with a focus on shared plates in a casual setting. Fine dining? According to the traditional definition, probably not, but without question, exceptional-quality food and dining experiences in every sense. (list continues on page 64)
VIJ’S, VANCOUVER, BC
Vikram Vij has done more to elevate Indian cuisine and drive it into the mainstream than any other individual in North America. His signature lamb popsicles and jackfruit in black cardamom and cumin curry have become iconic. The stunning food combined with precision service and Vij’s warm hospitality explain the nightly lineups despite the no-reservation policy. MAY/JUNE 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 65
AFTER TASTE BY TONY ASPLER
COMMUNICATING YOUR PASSION WHENEVER I CONDUCT A WINE TASTING, I INVITE THE PARTICIPANTS TO ASK QUESTIONS. In order to make the
guests feel comfortable about speaking out in public, I try a little humour. I say: “Please feel free to ask questions at any point. Remember, there are no dumb questions about wine ... (pause) ... apart from one. I was once asked, ‘Should I swallow my gum before I taste?”’ Now, there is no real answer to that one, except perhaps, “Stick it behind your ear. Why break the habit of a lifetime.” But the point is that we wine writers are generally guilty of a presumption of knowledge on the part of our audience — a failing of most academics who have spent years studying their particular discipline and developed a coded vocabulary that excludes the uninitiated. We tend to assume basic information when faced by an enthusiastic audience who is willing to absorb not only the wines in front of them, but what we have to say about those wines. When we declare with authority that we can smell aromas of peach and green pineapple in the bouquet of this Chardonnay, it’s not too far-fetched for someone, if they are brave enough, to put up their hand and ask, “Do winemakers really add peaches and pineapples to their wine?” This is not an unreasonable question from someone who has never visited a winery or seen how wine is made. As wine writers, we have an obligation to communicate on various levels to wine lovers, whether they’re attending their very first tasting or have a wine cellar that we would envy. Not everyone reads Wine Spectator, Decanter and Quench from cover to cover. There are degrees of enthusiasm for the fermented grape and we, as educators, must keep telling ourselves that not everyone is a future candidate for Master of Wine studies. Some just want to find a tasty wine that will be delicious with the roast chicken they’re having that night. I don’t think of myself as a wine critic, rather as a wine evangelist. I want to share my passion for wine, which I believe to be the most civilized and civilizing of beverages that not only has health-giving benefits and sensory delights, but can elevate the flavour of food as it elevates the conversation around the dinner table. Ultimately, it all comes down to one’s ability to communicate that passion. My colleague and friend Tim Hanni, who is a trained chef as well as being the co-first American Master of Wine (the other 66 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAY/JUNE 2015
was Joel Butler), is also a master communicator. While his peers might turn their noses up at White Zinfandel, Tim championed this pink confection, since it introduced a generation to wine just as Mateus Rosé and Liebfraumilch had done before it. Tim recognized the fact that when people tasted a wine for the first time they either liked it or they didn’t. They might not be able to parse its bouquet and deconstruct its flavours, but they had a definite opinion. So he coined the terms “Yum” and “Yuck” — a thumbs-up or thumbs-down — as a tasting response. This may seem overly simplistic but it allowed the consumer to express a personal judgement on the wine without having to justify that opinion in the language of wine magazines, which they did not understand. (Sometimes I’m flummoxed by some critics’ descriptors.) I am not saying that we should dumb down wine writing, but for those of us who care about wine appreciation, this elementary approach is a start, even if the questions may make you roll your eyes. On that score, I’m reminded of one that I heard second-hand from Inniskillin’s long-time public relations manager, Debi Pratt. She was once asked by a visitor to the winery: “When does the self-guided tour start?” × ILLUSTRATION: FRANCESCO GALLÉ, WWW.FRANCESCOGALLE.COM
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