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GREEK FRUITS IN FOLDER Ca n ned Peaches
Welcome to the fresh world of canned peaches! Peach compote: - fully preserves the freshness of the fruit - improves the nutritional efficiency of vitamins C and A - can be relished all year round - is easy to use, in numerous ways - contains no preservatives or GMOs
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MAY/JUNE 2018 20 MODERN DAYS TIM PAWSEY CHILE IS GOING “BACK TO THE BASICS” AND EMBRACING ORGANIC LIKE NO OTHER.
27 VEGAN WINE IS A THING! KONRAD EJBICH TRUTH IS, IT HAS BEEN WITH US ALL ALONG. AFTER ALL, YOU JUST CRUSH GRAPES AND MAKE WINE. GRAPES ARE VEGAN, RIGHT?
16 | WHEN THE TRENDS BECOME THE REALITY JONATHAN SMITHE Healthy eating — and the way we approach dieting — has changed.
24 | NOT AN IMITATION ANDRE PROULX Chile is encroaching on New Zealand’s Sauv Blanc dominance.
39 POKE MADNESS LISA HOEKSTRA
AS CULINARY TRENDS GO, WE WANT MORE: NEW EXPERIENCES, SUSTAINABLE INGREDIENTS AND STREETSTYLE CONVENIENCE SOURCED FROM EVERY CORNER OF THE WORLD. HAWAII’S POKE BOWL DOES IT ALL.
30 | POWER PLAY EVAN SAVIOLIDIS Collio in northern Italy has been deeply influenced by its neighbours yet stays uniquely Italian.
32 | HERE IS VULTURE MICHAELA MORRIS In the heart of Basilicata, a new group of winemakers are taking on the Old World.
36 | C’EST TOUT NOIR MICHAEL PINKUS Pinot Noir is having its day in the sun and people are paying special attention to the grape across New Zealand.
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BACK OF THE BOOK 42 | THE LOVELY MONTH OF MAY NANCY JOHNSON This is the time of year when the weather is just right for entertaining.
44 | NOTHING SAYS ITALY LIKE THIS COCKTAIL Everyone should know how to make a negroni.
45 | BUYING GUIDE The best wine, beer and spirits from around the world, critiqued by our expert tasting panel.
66 | COLD AS ICE TONY ASPLER Wine trivia question: What is the most rigorously regulated and monitored of all Canadian wines? If you said Icewine, you’d be right.
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EDITOR’S NOTE THE RECENT HEALTH CRAZE ISN’T REALLY A CRAZE AT ALL. OR MAYBE IT’S JUST NOT RECENT. What generation
hasn’t spent at least some of their time trying to eat healthy? But we are using a mix of fresh words: organic, biodynamic, organically-biodynamic … Which could mean almost anything. We look to these terms as a guide to our healthy eating. Pointing us in the right direction. The problem is, there are no clear guidelines to what makes something organic (let alone biodynamic). Several institutions — and fancy logos — have been created to give consumers a clear point of departure for their organic choices, but not enough time has passed in order for us to really know that they are doing their jobs. Is it just another version of an industry regulating itself ? Again, only time will tell. With wine, it seems to be even more confusing. A number of labels clearly state their organic process and we have no reason to disbelieve them. With that being said, we — and I mean the royal we — as consumers need to demand full transparency from our liquid suppliers. We can’t allow them to obscure how the contents got in the bottle. No matter how good it tastes, it should also make us feel good about the choices we make. They owe us that, at least.
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Wine is a never-ending story, and an infinite source of discoveries, that keeps Gilles Bois busy all year long as a wine judge or among friends, at home and abroad. He likes to share his passion with the people who make wine and with readers across Canada. WHEN YOU WANT TO EAT HEALTHY, WHAT DO YOU REACH FOR?
I am a fan of the mediterranean diet (lots of fish and seafood, fresh fruits and vegetables, nuts and olive oil).
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MAY/JUNE 2018 7
UMAMI LISA HOEKSTRA
A WARM HYGGE
Jody Eddy has two passions: writing and cooking. With six cookbooks under her belt and a seventh on the way, writing cookbooks and helping others tell their stories is the perfect role for Eddy.
Finding the career that intersects her two passions was a bit of a journey. After graduating with an English degree, Eddy moved to New York and decided to indulge her passion for cooking. She attended, and graduated from, culinary school to launch her career as a chef. “I worked at restaurants in New York and England but my mom’s voice was always ringing in my ear, reminding me of how much I loved to write,” she says. “When I was hired as the Executive Editor of Art Culinaire … I finally merged my two great loves. Cookbook writing felt like a natural progression and best of all, the decision made my mom really happy.” “Being a chef has enabled me to empathize with the chefs that I’m writing about in a way that I never would have been able to had I not worked as a cook myself,” Eddy explains. “Although the hours in a restaurant kitchen are long and the demands are high, I wouldn’t trade this experience for anything else.” Eddy focuses on exploring the culture behind her topics in all of her books. Her latest, The Hygge Life: Embracing the Nordic Art of Coziness Through Recipes, Entertaining, Decorating, Simple Rituals, and Family Traditions, published in 2017, is an account on how hygge (pronounced hue-guh) influences daily life in Scandinavian culture. “It’s a lifestyle ... about creating an inviting setting for the people you love in a simple yet impactful way,” explains Eddy. “We all respond to that feeling of being embraced and loved in a setting that feels easy and comfortable and that’s what hygge is all about.” 8 @ QUENCH_MAG
She was first introduced to hygge in 2008 when she traveled to Iceland. That same trip was also where she met Chef Gunnar Karl Gíslason, her co-author for The Hygge Life, as well as her 2014 book, North: The New Nordic Cuisine of Iceland. “As a native Minnesotan, I’m drawn to cold places and Iceland was always at the top of my list to check out,” she says. “I’ve traveled throughout Scandinavia countless times (50 times to Iceland alone) since I first met Gunnar and have always admired how Scandinavians create cozy atmospheres that feel warm and welcoming even in the darkest, coldest winter.” “My mom passed away unexpectedly a year and a half ago,” Eddy mentions. “As an only child who was raised by a single mother, it was a really devastating loss. My friends and family embraced me in a way that mirrors the principles of hygge in that they made me feel supported, loved and embraced in warm and remarkable ways … The book enabled me to explore how to incorporate hygge into my life in tangible and lasting ways, such as in the ways I decorate, cook, dress, travel and entertain. Embracing hygge makes life feel gentler, softer, easier and more inspiring.” ×
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HAVE WE MET? ARMAGNAC DE MONTAL VSOP “This is delightfully delicate as far as Armagnac goes. From an excellent producer that’s been around since the 17th century, it’s juicy and redolent of sweet stone fruit, apple, orange peel and brown sugar, with penetrating warmth underscored by baking spices and brown butter.”
ARMAGNAC IN FOLDER
Beppi Crosariol The Globe and Mail
MEET THE FAMILY
Pictured above 1987, XO, Hors d’Age, 1997 and VS. Also available Blanche d’Armagnac and older vintages starting from 1893. Good taste runs in the family.
Armagnac de Montal
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LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO
FERNET ABOUT IT!
IF YOU’RE ON SOCIAL MEDIA, YOU’VE LIKELY SEEN A FEW STORIES THAT LINK BITTER TASTES TO DARK TENDENCIES: “COFFEE LOVER? According to science, you’re
probably a psychopath!” Like most click-bait stories, it’s pretty flimsy journalism. There’s a slight correlation between a taste for bitter foods and certain traits — narcissism, Machiavellianism and psychopathy. But reading all those stories that throw shade on Gin & Tonic fans, I couldn’t help think about how, if liking tonic is suspicious behaviour, Fernet fans should probably be put under 24-hour surveillance. Fernet, the bitter digestivo from Italy, is a divisive spirit — especially since nearly everybody in North America is introduced to this sub-category of amaro with Fernet-Branca, a Milanese product that’s known for its intense vegetal flavour, sharp eucalyptus notes and practically medicinal-level bitterness. There are other Fernets, almost all made in Italy and many of which are more subtle, but Branca has enjoyed the most success abroad by far. Case in point: Argentina. Italian immigrants in that country imported so much of it that the company decided it might as well just build the country its own distillery. In Buenos Aires, Fernet is pretty much always served with Coke. In North America, it’s more likely to be served neat, for those who enjoy the full assault on the palate. But, according to Cooper Tardivel, a Halifax drinks consultant and a bartender at Bar Kismet, it’s possible to find a middle ground for Fernet drinks between these two extremes. “When I get a bottle of Fernet, I immediately decant half of it into a bitters bottle and put a dasher on it, so I can literally use it as a bitter, like I would Angostura or a Peychaud’s,” explains × VISIT WWW.QUENCH.ME/MIXED/ FOR MORE DRINK RECIPES
Tardivel. “Because of its crazy flavour profile — sweet, dry, bitter, vegetal, bright and fresh — it’s actually really versatile so long as you use it in the proper proportions.” Tardivel says you can use Fernet in whisky cocktails like the Sazerac and Old Fashioned; in tiki drinks since it pairs well with falernum and orgeat; and even daiquiris — provided it’s just a few drops. As another example of Fernet’s use as an accent, he points to the Hanky Panky, a classic 1920s-era cocktail in which equal parts of gin and sweet vermouth are livened up with a few drops of the bitter bomb. “You want to let the Fernet do its thing at the back of the palate,” says Tardivel. “If it’s at the forefront, then you’re missing the point of a composed cocktail and you should probably just be having it neat as a digestif.” Which, he points out, is a perfectly excellent way to drink Fernet, especially if you love bitter drinks. Of course, that probably means you’re a psychopath. Or at least a little bit of a narcissist. For those who want to try more than a dash, Tardivel shared this amazing recipe to help us find a good, middle-ground use for the fabulous Fernet.
HELPING HAND
1 1/4 1/2 1/2 1/4 2 1
oz manzanilla sherry oz amontillado sherry oz Booker’s bourbon (or any overproof bourbon) oz Fernet dashes Peychaud’s bitters dash mole bitters
Stir all ingredients over ice in mixing glass. Strain into chilled coupe. No garnish. × MAY/JUNE 2018 11
PREP KITCHEN
PERFECT AND FREE
TO FIND THE PERFECT GLUTEN-FREE CAKE RECIPE, WE TURNED TO KATIE MORTON, GLUTEN-FREE GURU BEHIND THE MONTREAL-BASED KLEINE SHOPPE. Morton is the expert
when it comes to baking gluten-free foods that are as good or better than their traditional counterparts (think moist, melt in your mouth goodness with the exact right amount of sweetness). “Bake at lower temperatures for longer,” Morton advises. “Stay vigilant!” This means watching the cake during its bake time and checking it with a toothpick when you think it’s ready. “This cake is not supposed to rise much,” she adds. So knowing when it is ready is based on the colour, texture and whether or not your toothpick comes out clean. Morton’s other piece of advice: “Always sift your flour.” She prefers using almond flour, but regardless of the flour-type, sifting will give you better results. As for her gluten-free cake, you can put your own spin on it by adding any your favourite topping. “This cake is very versatile,” Morton states. “Use pineapple, apple cinnamon with cranberry. Add matcha. It really is easy and depends on what you have on hand.”
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TOTALLY MOIST GLUTEN-FREE CAKE
1 cup almond flour (or nut flour of your choice) 1/2 cup tapioca starch 1 1/2 tsp baking powder 2 tbsp coconut oil, softened 2 tbsp applesauce 3 eggs 1/3 cup maple syrup 1 dash salt 1 dash vanilla extract 1 dash almond extract (optional) Topping of your choice 1. Preheat oven to 325°F. Grease an 8-in springform pan (or you can line it with parchment paper). 2. In a large bowl, mix dry ingredients together. Add wet ingredients and combine with a hand blender. Pour into the springform pan. 3. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes. Stay nearby and keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn’t overbake. 4. Remove from oven and set aside to cool. Top with the toppings of your choice. ×
LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC
A BEER LOVER’S LIBRARY WITH BEER’S INCREDIBLE RISE IN POPULARITY, I’VE NOTICED THAT MANY FOLKS SEEM TO HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM: FIGURING OUT WHERE TO EVEN BEGIN LEARNING ABOUT IT. It’s a totally understandable issue. Once you
start tasting some good beers, it’s like stepping into a Stargate and finding a whole other universe out there. There are so many books on the subject that finding a resource to help you pick out a good beer is often just as chaotic and confusing as picking out a beer itself. With that in mind, I’ve compiled a small list of books that should be on every beer-lover’s bookshelf, from beginners to seasoned pros.
TAKING A LOOK BACK
This one is one of my all-time favourites. Pete Brown is a longtime beer writer and educator who is known for taking a truly entertaining and informative look at beer. His 2003 book Man Walks Into a Pub shows readers how this simple drink was often a key player in shaping the history of the world. It’s a must-read, not just for the wonderfully entertaining historical stories, but also for the sheer enthusiasm and excitement that it evokes for the complex world of beer. ×
THE BASICS
We all need to start somewhere and for the best value and knowledge base, only two stick out of the crowd. Tasting Beer: An Insider’s Guide to the World’s Greatest Drink by Randy Mosher is the book behind the bar in most pubs and is widely regarded as one of the best beer books for beginners. Mosher breaks down the different styles of beers into their key flavour profiles and includes information about their historical origins and what foods to pair them with. Beerology by Mirella Amato, however, is in a lot of ways the perfect book for people looking to up their beer appreciation game. Pulling on her years of experience as one of the country’s most respected beer educators, Amato not only goes into the details of what to look for in different beer styles, but also teaches you how to taste like the pros, incorporate beer into cocktails and even host a beer tasting event for your friends.
ON THE ROAD
Whenever you go on a trip you need a good guide, and I can say that in the past few years, I’ve never left the country without a copy of well-travelled beer writers Stephen Beaumont and Tim Webb’s Pocket Beer Guide in my carry-on bag. Though I have to say, their latest book Best Beers does what all beer guide readers have been secretly hoping for, and that’s cut through the terrible and mediocre to present you with more than 2,000 of the best beer offerings in the world. Separated by region and country, each section includes a number of recommended beers with concise tasting notes as well as highlighted breweries that either shouldn’t be missed or are worth keeping an eye on. MAY/JUNE 2018 13
TBY TREVE RING
YK3 YU JUNMAI NAMA GENSHU, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($20/375 ML)
The traditional notion that sake is only made in Japan is being placed on its head. Here are three examples that are as similar as they have different. Tasted by Treve Ring.
Heady pear, anise, orange creamsicle fills the cloudy, glycerine-filled palate of this Nama (unpasteurized) sake. Grapefruit zest seasons and lush melon fills the punchy palate. The finish lingers with pickled ginger heat. It is also Junmai (no added alcohol at all), and Genshu (undiluted with water), key translations to know if you’re new to the sake nomenclature. YK3, so named because the Toji (brewmaster) and two founders all share these two initials, is based in Richmond, BC. The rice is Calrose, imported from Sacremeto, California, where most of the North American sake rices are sourced. Since this is a Nama sake, it needs to be refrigerated at every point along its journey, including restaurant / store shelves, and your home. Unpasteurized sake is not inherently better or worse than pasteurized sake; it is a stylistic choice. I would choose to pair this with savoury Japanese custards or mushroom sautés. YAMAGATA MASAMUNE JUNMAI, YAMATAGA, JAPAN ($40)
Though this is the brewery’s entry level sake, it is certainly not simple, nor neglected. From local Dewa-san-san rice owned and organically farmed by the brewery (rare), this has a rice polish rate of 55 percent, SMV +3, and 16 percent alcohol. The result is a lighter, delicate and nuanced Junmai (no additional alcohol added), with quince, pear and Asian pear notes, and an alluring swing of fennel and white pepper spicing on the finish. It’s interesting to taste with a little age weight on it; making this ready for sablefish or sashimi. G SAKE JOY JUNMAI GINJO GENSHU, UNITED STATES ($18/300 ML)
Let’s start with the lingo. This is a Junmai (no added alcohol), Ginjo (top 4 premium sake grades), Genshu (undiluted with water) Sake. From Oregon, no less. With Calrose sake rice grown in the Sacramento, California. Being undiluted, this is at the upper scales for sake alcohol content at 18 percent. And you can feel it: a punchy, bold, smooth and full bodied sake with lush melons, perfumed Anjou, Asian pear crispness and a sweet cereals note on the weighted, glycerol palate. There’s a riff of grip on the sides. × 14 @ QUENCH_MAG
BON VIVANT PETER ROCKWELL
ILLUSTRATION: MATT DALEY/SHINYPLIERS.COM
My friends and I think having a wine tasting sounds like fun. The trouble is, we don’t know much about wine. How do we get organized? The good news is tastings are fun and the best way to learn more about wine is to taste wine. Of all the books I’ve read and courses I’ve taken on the subject, nothing has taught me more about fermented grape juice than putting it in my mouth. While having someone with a bit of knowledge lead your adventure certainly helps — especially if you have questions to ask and they have stories to tell — that isn’t a necessary foundation for an entertaining evening. Using your ignorance as a theme, you can build a tasting and learn a little something by starting with the very basics. Tip number one: remember you’re organizing a wine tasting, not a bachelor party. Keeping your wine count to six will let your guests focus on what’s in their glass rather than on tying one on. Keep the samples small; once the analytical part of the evening is over, those who wish can have a heftier reintroduction to their favourite. Tip number two: wine is made from grapes. Getting familiar with their individual characteristics is the first step to wine geekdom. If your gang really doesn’t know much about wine, head to your local liquor store and ask for a quintessential version of popular whites and reds. Try Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc × ASK YOUR QUESTIONS AT BONVIVANT@QUENCH.ME
and Chardonnay, along with Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. An average price of around $15 per bottle will get you what you need. Don’t worry about where they come from for now, you’re only interested in how well each reflects the grape’s typical personality traits. Tip number three: you don’t need fancy glasses or tasting sheets. A standard tulip-shaped receptacle has a universality that will cover all bases and a piece of paper is all you need to make notes (and you should make notes). As host, it’s up to you to go online and put together an aromatic and flavour profile of each grape. Don’t worry, some nerd has already done the work for you. Just click print. Come tasting time, let everyone try each wine and jot down what jumps out at them and then review against your internet descriptors. Though there are no wrong answers, having your panel give it another go after they know what to look for is the best way to hone their perceptive skills. Other options are to picks grapes popular in one country, examples of one grape grown in various countries or wines famous from one country or individual regions. You want fun, so make it fun. × MAY/JUNE 2018 15
WHEN THE TRENDS BECOME THE REALITY by Jonathan Smithe
I read an article recently that claimed that healthy eating — and the way we approach dieting — has changed. Gone are the stodgy, guilt-inducing diets; instead, it’s all about eating what you want, and living a healthy lifestyle. I was skeptical, as I am with everything I read online. So, I reached out to trend experts to see if this shift in food culture is real — or just click-bait.
“There are some new definitions of what is considered healthy food,” says Kara Nielsen, Vice President, Trends and Marketing at CCD Innovation in San Francisco. “For the most part, healthy is being defined by nutrient density … kind of beyond whether it’s paleo or gluten-free, low calorie or low fat.” “Everyone knows that no one enjoys being on a diet; even the people who are selling diets do try to focus on the lifestyle benefits,” says Dana McCauley, food trends tracker and Associate Director for New Venture Creation at the University of Guelph. “But I think most people still gravitate towards a change in their eating habits because they want to lose weight.” Trends are constantly in flux. They change as more information is introduced, or long-term beliefs are debunked — as our culture changes, so do our needs and wants. “Trends get more popular because they meet consumer needs,” explains Nielsen. “Consumers’ values change by overarching social forces … these big macro trends … cause people to start shifting their thinking. If you think about global warming, green living or eco-consciousness … people are much more interested in buying things that reflect their values.” A macro trend that has been on the rise for the last 10 to 15 years, and one that has inspired “healthy as lifestyle change,” is the concept of customized, well, everything. “We are experiencing a cultural shift that … started with ‘have it your way’ at Burger King and really started to grow with Starbucks’ customized drinks,” McCauley points out. “And now we just expect customization everywhere.” 16 @ QUENCH_MAG
“Millennials have brought in a notion of customized everything,” Nielsen adds. “Society and technology have all catered to [it] …. We’ve recognized that dieting — calorie-in calorie-out — doesn’t really work. We’re learning that it gets more complex and confusing because now there’s so many different things that could be considered healthy. Everything now is catered to you, and that applies to how you eat and what is healthy for you.” There are a lot of different trends floating around out in the health food sphere. Nielsen and McCauley provided some insight, letting me know which trends will hold fast and why.
FAT IS OUR FRIEND
Fat has been evil for as long as I can remember. Now, science proves that there are good fats and bad fats. People are incorporating good fats into their diets to help them with weight management and more. “What’s really changed is that now fat isn’t the enemy,” McCauley says. “The diets that are most popular right now in Canada … are all about reducing carbs and working towards using fat as a tool for weight loss.” “There’s been a lot of backlash to the low-fat movement in the last 30 years,” Nielsen adds. “Much of that research has been debunked. We’re really looking at good fats now. We also think about avocados and almonds and their helpful oil. Millennials are smart about nutrients themselves, more so than earlier gen-
MAY/JUNE 2018 17
The Little Trend That Could (or at least, tried to)
Mushrooms, specifically irradiated mushrooms, are high in Vitamin D, something many people in Canada need — a lot. This isn’t a new fact, though. Irradiated mushrooms as a trend has been trying to emerge for years. “Canada has, I think, if not the highest, very close to the highest rates of multiple sclerosis in the world. And that’s been linked to Vitamin D deficiency,” McCauley states. “This seems like something that everybody should just be clamouring for — like when we started putting riboflavin into cereal. This should be really important news.” “We’ve been talking about it now for a few years and I don’t see it going anywhere,” she continues. “I’m trying to figure out why the mushroom thing isn’t already big, because we’ve known how to do it now for at least five years and it’s not big yet.” A trend like these mushrooms seems like it fits with social values, but it hasn’t taken off. This could be because some people don’t like mushrooms (myself included). It could also be that it just hasn’t found the right marketing niche. Or it could simply be due to the disjoint between intention and action. “Anytime you get a press release and people say, ‘nine out of 10 consumers say they want more X and that’s why we’re launching this.’ Well, you know what, not necessarily 90 percent of people are going to buy it,” explains McCauley. “But that’s the bias in that type of research. It’s much better to find out what people’s problems are and then come up with solutions to them and then test that kind of appeal. We don’t know what we need, we just know what our problems are.” “Certainly,” she continues, “[mushrooms] are — although I know they’re polarizing — I think very delicious and being low calorie is another big benefit. But I haven’t seen anyone really succeed with using that as a marketing claim in a very significant way.”
18 @ QUENCH_MAG
erations. So, they really understand whether something has antioxidants or omega fatty acids, or whether it’s high protein or low in actual sugars — those types of things.”
SUGAR IS THE ENEMY
“Sugar is a big thing this year; people are really cutting back on that,” states Nielsen. By cutting back, the trend is to replace white sugar with natural sweeteners like honey, coconut and dates. Here’s the thing. Sugar was added to processed food items to keep the fat content down. “The government said ‘low fat’ or ‘light’ must have less than 10 percent of the calories come from fat,” McCauley explains. “If something had quite a bit of fat, then you can add sugar to make the fat look proportionately smaller.” By removing these high-sugar items, we end up eating better. “We’re trying to get rid of our processed food habit and have new versions of processed food that are made with organic ingredients, like a good-for-you mac and cheese,” adds Nielsen. “You are taking in food that’s less processed. And in many cases, it’s more local — particularly if you’re using maple syrup,” McCauley says. “There’s a benefit to it for our economy and sustainability imprint.”
PROTEIN FROM PLANTS
Meat replacements and protein alternatives are found in more than just nuts and chickpeas. Science and technology has developed new meat-replacement options that allow people with any dietary restriction to enjoy high-protein foods. “The really interesting part is the lab-grown aspect of it,” McCauley mentions. “Things like ‘The Impossible Burger,’ where we’re literally doing something new with science to create a substitute for meat. They get heme, the same thing that gives hemoglobin its red colour, out of plants, so that when you open up this piece of ‘meat,’ it actually oozes the red juices.” “In the last year or two, we’ve been hearing a little bit more about plant-based foods in part because there’s a lot of hightech vegan foods that are coming out to the marketplace that have millions of dollars of investment behind them,” Nielsen mentions. “Not everybody’s eating that way, but there are certainly way more choices for plant-based foods that have a protein sourced from a plant.”
MICROBIOMES AND A HEALTHY GUT
Our guts are a fun place for scientists who love studying diverse microbiomes. “What I like about this trend is that it’s growing and developing, and is routed in really good science,” McCauley states. The microbiome health trend includes foods like kombucha, sauerkraut, kimchi and other fermented foods. “All the things that have to do with us getting our inner ecosystem in good shape.”
“EVERYTHING NOW IS CATERED TO YOU, AND THAT APPLIES TO HOW YOU EAT AND WHAT IS HEALTHY FOR YOU.” KARA NIELSEN
“People are making their own pickles, lacto-fermented pickles, so that they have of these good bugs — in part for the probiotics, in part for the flavour,” says Nielsen. “It connects to a healthy digestive tract. But then there’s indigestible fibres that actually cause some people a lot of problems. There is no one-size-fits-all solution.” Having a healthy gut also affects our overall well-being — and can prevent illness and disease. “Only the Western diet has been limited. Our diversity, our bodies, our human ecology is so much less than a tribal group in the Amazon,” states McCauley. “They have so much more diversity in their bodies and digestive systems, and interestingly, are much more resistant to disease.”
SPICES CAN BE SUPER, TOO
Superfoods were a big thing the last couple of years — big leafy greens, fruits and berries from exotic places that are said to promote health and keep us energized. Now spices have found their way into the super category. “[Superfoods are] not so much about berries and fruits now,” explains McCauley. “It’s about things like turmeric, cinnamon, ginger. You know these spices … instead of not just being for flavour — they generally are fairly flavourful — but also for their newly understood, or newly believed, health effects. That’s a big one.”
SMART SNACKING
Eating throughout the day is a common part of many diets. Snacking keeps your metabolism up, which means you’re
burning more calories (or carbs, or whatever) throughout the day. “Snacking has really replaced meals,” Nielsen mentions. “People want to have better-for-you snacks so that they can feel good about eating them, but it’s also kind of how they’re eating.” The trick is to snack on good, healthy foods, like the ones with good fats or high nutrient density. This trend is, in a way, a combination of all the other trends listed here.
WILL THESE TRENDS LAST?
Trends can be fickle. They need to run parallel to what consumers want. According to Nielsen and McCauley, the focus on customized diets and healthy lifestyles designed for the individual will most likely hang around for a while, especially if they’re convenient. “It’s always evolving a little bit,” Nielsen adds. “We have so much education; there’s a lot of science being done. We deepen our understanding all the time. There’s always marketers who are trying to sell something new. It’ll always evolve as our world changes, in how we relate to it and what we’re trying to do.” “We’re better educated. We’re more aware,” explains McCauley. “Science isn’t finished. We don’t know everything there is to know about how our bodies work … the science that told us fat was the enemy was current. But now, that science has evolved. We know more about how we metabolize things, burn fat and all that stuff. There will be new discoveries and we’ll continue to learn more about our bodies, new foods and food combinations. And processing techniques will be developed. Some of them will be beneficial. Some of them won’t.” × MAY/JUNE 2018 19
MODERN by Tim Pawsey
DAYS
DEREK MOSSMAN KNAPP
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For far too many years, Chile has been cast as a monolithic wine producer. Maybe it once was. In fact, it surely was. But long gone are the days of Chilean Merlot or, worse, Carménère masquerading as Merlot. Yet, despite a rise by leaps and bounds in quality over the last couple of decades, Chile still has to fight the perception of being purely a value-driven producer.
That said, the Chileans have been more astute than some at anticipating the pitfalls of becoming a mono-varietal producer. The move towards higher quality and more interesting wines actually started several years ago. Until recently — with some notable exceptions — most of Chile’s modern-day production came from the flat plains of the Central Valley. For an industry controlled by remarkably few major players, this made sense — at least for a while. However, a new generation of winemakers is beginning to radically reshape the Chilean industry. And, in turn, how we consumers see it. The forces redefining Chile span a range of philosophies and styles but there is at least one common theme: the country’s topographical seclusion makes it an ideal candidate for sustainable wine-growing. That, in part, explains the success of the biodynamic focus at Emiliana and organic farming at Cono Sur — two producers who have very much helped bring organic wine out of the shallows and into the mainstream.
A RETURN TO ITS ROOTS
Traditionally driven by exports, Chilean production has been forged to a great degree by outside influences, mainly European ones. However, today’s Chilean wine culture is increasingly home grown. It’s being shaped by people who have come of age with a strong connection to the land and a firm conviction about terroir — especially in the southern regions, such as Bio Bio, Itata and Cauquenes, the seat of the original Chilean industry started by Spanish missionaries as far back as the 1550s. Among the most fervent is renowned viticulturist Pedro Parra. He compares the land around his home town of Concepción to the schisty and granite soils of Northern Rhône but says it’s uniquely personal experience that led him to projects such as Clos des Fous, which translates, literally, as “crazy guys,” a reference to Parra and his terroir-driven collaborators. Parra has made a name for himself consulting around the world (including at Okanagan Crush Pad since its genesis) and is celebrated for digging soil pits to show precisely what he’s talking about. Working with Italian Alberto Antonini, he’s been instrumental in sparking momentum for the purest vineyard expression, eradication of chemical farming, adherence to organic viticulture where possible and, essentially, minimal intervention.
Overall, irrigation is eschewed, says Parra, “Because we don’t want to control the vines, we want the vines to control themselves ... when the climate allows it, without man-made irrigation.”
VIGNO, MOVI AND MORE
The Chilean revival is taking place on so many fronts that it can be challenging to keep track. But two key groups, MOVI and Vigno, are achieving impressive results and gaining well-deserved attention. What’s also interesting, though, is that while new “back to basics” movements elsewhere in the world have tended to emerge in response to large corporate dominance, that’s not been the case in Chile, where the majors have also participated in such projects. There’s a significant Canadian connection to the whole process, too, namely Derek Mossman Knapp, a former ski coach who by chance discovered Chile’s more remote areas when a change in weather prompted a detour away from New Zealand, his usual southern hemisphere training destination. Mossman Knapp followed his passion for wine by working with local garagistes and eventually established the Garage Wine Co., which he uses horses to farm. It was very much a response to the homogenized winemaking that defined Chile at the turn of the millennium. Mossman Knapp valued what small growers and handson farmers had to offer in terms of knowledge and dedication to their land. These and others are the guiding principles behind MOVI (the Movement of Independent Vintners), one of a dozen small independent associations, which he co-founded in 2009. Shortly after MOVI came Vigno, founded to focus on Carignan from Maule. The first Chilean Denomination of Origin to be based solely on technical criteria, the name is short for Vignadores de Carignan. Viñadores is the old Spanish name for winegrowers, modified with the emphatic “g” from Carignan. Vigno has to contain at least 65 percent dry-farmed Carignan from Maule, a stipulation that applies to any blended varieties, all from bush vines and unirrigated. Carignan, a mainstay of the new Chile, traces its modern roots to the devastating earthquake of 1939, which was centred on Chillán, in the Itata Valley, 400 kilometres south of Santiago. Not only did it inflict a huge loss of life, it also almost completely destroyed the infrastructure, labour force and economy MAY/JUNE 2018 21
EMILIANA SALVAJE ORGANIC 2015 ($24)
Syrah and Rousanne, from 15-year-old vines planted at 380m in Valle Casablanca. Stainless-steel fermented and aged. Forward deep red and black berries with some floral notes before a luscious palate of damson and mulberry accompanied by spice hints wrapped in well-integrated tannins. Well-structured with good acidity through a lingering end. CLOS DES FOUS CAQUENINA SUBSOLLUM 2014 ($38)
Blend of Pucalan, Aconcagua Coast and Malleco, Itata fruit shows vibrant red fruit with some earthy undertones and spice before a quite plush but still fresh palate with cherry and red berries wrapped in well-integrated tannins with just a touch of savoury and mineral to close. PENCOPOLITANO 2014, DO MAULE ($34)
A blend of Cinsault, Carignan, Malbec, Syrah and Carménère, from numerous vineyards in Itata and Cauquenes in Maule with 45- to 90-year-old vines, dry farmed and hand harvested. All native yeasts, cement and stainless-steel fermented. Complex aromas of black and red berries with some earthy hints on a floral and well-balanced, quite plush and rounded palate. Superbly balanced with elegant viscosity, freshness and acidity with good length to end. IMAGINADOR CINSAULT 2016 ($33)
Mainly Cinsault (77.1%) blended from different parcels in Itata and Carignan from Cauquenes. Bush vines, all between 55 and 70 years old, all dry farmed. Cement and stainless-steel fermented. Crimson in the glass with lifted aromas of pure, bright red fruit, damson and raspberry before a palate of soft red berries with a wild edge and juicy acidity. Seductive length with hints of clove and five spice with approachable tannins and a hint of pepper. UNDURRAGA TERROIR HUNTER TH 2014, DO MAULE ($27)
From dry-farmed, sustainably grown 50-year-old vines. Bright red berries with some stony notes up front, before a well-structured palate of damson and raspberry underpinned by grippy tannins and spice notes. Still youthful with lots of potential. LOUIS-ANTOINE LUYT PIPEÑO RED SANTA JUANA 2016 ($36/1 L)
Rust coloured in glass, with a dark strawberry and earthy top. A vinous, savoury entry with an appealing herbaceous edge. Good mid-palate weight with forest-floor notes and a fresh finish from just 11 percent abv.
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in and around nearby Concepción. The earthquake also severely impacted key vineyard areas. Following these events, the government brought in Carignan cuttings as a means to help revive the industry and rebuild the volumes needed. The variety was chosen for its colour and high acidity, thought ideal for enhancing local blended grapes. But only recently have its old vines become appreciated for their true potential. The founding members behind Vigno span the spectrum, including the prime movers, Garage Wine Co., as well as Lomas de Cauquenes, Miguel Torres, Morande, Valdivieso, Undurraga and De Martino.
A RETURN TO AMPHORA
In 2011, De Martino was one of the first larger wineries to suggest that a shift in Chile’s direction was not only possible but also already underway. Winemaker Marcelo Retamal and the winery’s ownership opted to follow what was at the time a fairly radical path — not using new oak and avoiding added yeasts or enzymes. “A goal of making just more refreshing and more drinkable wines,” says De Martino’s Guy Hooper. One of Chile’s original organic producers, and the country’s first certified carbon-neutral winery, De Martino embarked on a program of restoring indigenous varieties in vineyards owned in Elqui, Limarí and Itata. Most notably, in seeking a more authentic and traditional style of winemaking, De Martino became a one of the earliest adopters of terracotta amphora — a return to the original, rural style of winemaking introduced by the Spanish. De Martino’s Viejas Tinajas (“old amphora”) wines, made naturally with Cinsault and Muscat, earned wide acclaim and several celebrated accolades, placing them among Chile’s top wines. Made with unirrigated fruit grown in the coastal and mountainous region of the Itata Valley, 400 kilometres south of Santiago, they signalled a return to less interventionist winemaking on many levels. Jancis Robinson hailed the new-style Cinsault as “so fresh and pure that it washes over the palate like the gentlest of waves.” In recent vintages, the Tinajas wines have continued to receive broad and prestigious acclaim for their style, which Hooper describes as: “A true vin de soif, with lower alcohols and much more, which we work hard on, mainly in the vineyard.” It was De Martino, suggests Hooper, that was a pioneer and innovator: “They rediscovered Itata Valley, Chile’s heritage and patrimony, where Chile’s first vines were indeed planted by the Spanish.” He adds that MOVI and Vigno are indicative of the new air of excitement in Chile. “Especially as some of the bigger wineries’ winemakers are now allowed to pursue their own projects. It’s good all around,” says Hooper.
PEDRO PARRA
PLAYERS LARGE AND SMALL
Surprisingly, one of the majors that became involved in Vigno was Viña Undurraga. Following a change in ownership in 2006, Undurraga changed direction to focus on more environmentally friendly practices throughout its vineyards. Winemaker Rafael Urrejola developed the TH range, as in Terroir Hunter, and consults with renowned oenologist Álvaro Espinoza, from Emiliana. The TH wines were developed as a deliberate departure from the more middle-of-the-road style that had previously defined the winery. Sourced from small organically oriented vineyards in lesser known regions, they are a firm expression of place that allow the fruit to speak through, unmasked by over-extraction and oak, more inclined to freshness and authenticity of flavours. I first encountered both the TH wines and Vigno on a trip to Chile a few years back. The enthusiasm shown by our small group of media was unanimous and well founded, especially that such a gently celebrated but relatively under the radar variety as Carignan would find favour in Chile of all places. One good taste led to another — and we soon found ourselves tasting a clutch of Vigno wines at celebrated Bocanáriz wine bar, Santiago’s “go-to” spot for wine insiders.
THE BIODYNAMIC TRAILBLAZER
Chile’s most recent sustainable initiatives tend to be coming from the smaller players. However, Emiliana has had an impact on a large scale and is continuing down the path it took a couple of decades back, when it became one of the first major players internationally to embrace organics and, more crucially, biodynamics. The newest addition to Emiliana’s stable is Salvaje, which saw its first vintage in 2014. “It started as a pilot project in a corner of the winery,” says Emiliana’s Fernando Pavon. “We were trying to push the boundaries some more, approaching winemaking with even more restrictions that we already use for our commercial-side wines,” he says.
Pavon says the primary difference between Salvaje and Emiliana’s other biodynamic wines is the lack of any additives in the wine. “It is a totally natural wine in a way, even though we don’t label it as such: we just say ‘no sulphites added’,” he explains. Part of the challenge for Chilean producers is the cost and bureaucracy that must be accommodated to achieve certified organic status. Right now, the only certified Emiliana wine is top-tier Chi. But Coyam is in the works and it’s likely that others lower down the range will follow. “Now that biodynamic is becoming more mainstream, we feel it’s more important to certify the wine,” he adds. And for good reason. Organic and biodynamic is “undergoing a very powerful revolution right now,” says Pavon. “There are many other wineries who are pursuing the idea of natural viticulture, to really take advantage of the wonderful climate and landscape that we have in Chile, and the conditions.” He notes that much of this trend is consumer driven. “There’s tremendous interest from consumers for this type of wine — natural, biodynamic, orange wines and so on. It’s coming from the export market, primarily from northern Europe and from North America.” Just a few years ago, it was unheard of. “Even in the domestic market in Chile, we are now seeing a rise in sales of organic wine being sold in our supermarkets, with demand growing tremendously. For example, Adobe is becoming a mainstay in supermarkets in Chile.” He also suggests that the new organic/biodynamic consumer “... doesn’t have rules or ties to certain countries or even to prices. The consciousness of these consumers is really pushing the boundaries of food and beverage overall.” Already, it’s a been a formidable journey for Chile’s modern wine industry in a relatively short length of time. But with this kind of renewed impetus, where key players are proudly returning to their roots, you can’t help but wonder if it’s only just begun. × MAY/JUNE 2018 23
NOT AN by Andre Proulx
IMITATION
This article is about Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, and I feel like I should tell you why. When I say Sauvignon Blanc, you probably think New Zea-
land. This region has done a fantastic job in carving out its identity with this grape. However, over the past few years, I have found that there is much more to Sauvignon Blanc than a tiny archipelago in the South West Pacific. In the Loire Valley, Sancerre offers bright citrus and grassy notes. A recent trip to California stunned me with beautiful ripeness and not a savoury note in sight. In my own backyard, the wineries of Niagara have kicked it into high gear with several wineries producing complex and tropical offerings at reasonable prices. So, when I came across several bottles of Sauvignon Blanc from Chile, it shouldn’t have been a surprise that they had their own take. I’m sitting in front of a dozen bottles of Sauvignon Blanc as I write this. I know when I think of Chilean wine, I think about affordable and high-quality Cabernet Sauvignon. In fact, most of the grapes planted in Chile are red — 74.3 percent if we’re being nit-picky. Of the white grapes planted, Sauvignon Blanc makes up 38.9 percent of the total, with Chardonnay coming in a close
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EMILIANA WINEMAKER NOELIA ORTS
second. I’m curious: if your country has already found a way to define itself on an international scale with red wine, does this give you some freedom to be more creative in your interpretation of white varietals? Especially with a grape like Sauvignon Blanc, it must be tempting to imitate New Zealand given the success that country currently enjoys on the global market. But when I taste through these wines, it’s clear that there is something else at hand. If I’m talking big picture, the wines fall into two categories. Half feel as though they are offering a tip of the hat to France while the other half are tipping their hats to New Zealand. But the Chilean bottles offer something that is often lacking from the Kiwi wines — restraint and subtlety. These bottles offer a nice balance of tropical fruit with savoury flavours and aromas. Speaking with Aurelio Montes, Jr. of his eponymous winery, I asked why his wines had a strong vegetal note and whether this was done deliberately to appeal to markets that have fallen in love with this style. He told me that the focus isn’t to try to imitate the winemaking styles of any other region but to work with what the vineyards provide. The Montes Sauvignon Blanc vineyards are in the Casablanca Valley and are located close to the Pacific Ocean. Being close to the ocean this keeps the vineyards cool and dry. When the fruit ripens, you can expect to find higher pyrazines.
MONTES SPRING HARVEST SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016 ($14.95)
Aromas of sugar snap peas and crisp bell pepper. The savoury aromas relax after a few minutes in your glass and make way for passion fruit, pineapple and lime. This wine evolves from savoury to fruity over the course of an evening so you can pace your enjoyment of a bottle to suit your tastes. ERRAZURIZ ESTATE SERIES SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016 ($13.95)
The savoury note feels like a bouquet garni — one with an extra sprig of parsley. The aromas are soft and restrained, and on the palate, this moves quickly to Golden Delicious apple and lime. Nice balance and a little softer in intensity, this is a perfect bottle to dump in a pot of mussels — just make sure you have a second bottle on hand to enjoy on the side. CASAS DEL BOSQUE RESERVA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016 ($14.95)
Definitely a tip of the hat to New Zealand in this bottle with asparagus and red pepper dominating on the start and on the finish. The fruit on the palate is a little more tart — citrus and gooseberry but the savoury note really dominates this bottle. MAY/JUNE 2018 25
SANTA CAROLINA RESERVA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016 ($11.95)
FRONTERA CONCHA Y TORO SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017 ($8.95)
The aromas are sharp citrus with fresh bell pepper. There is a nice intensity and a mineral note to this wine that gives it a little weight on the palate. Finishes with nice acidity that lingers on the finish.
The clear winner in the value category, and it easily stands up to the other bottles on the table that are nearly double the price. Expect to find guava, melon, passion fruit and an interesting mineral note that adds some nice texture on the mid-palate.
MIGUEL TORRES LAS MULAS ORGANIC SAUVIGNON BLANC RESERVA 2017 ($13.95)
SANTA RITA 120 RESERVA ESPECIAL SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017 ($11.95)
A stark contrast to the Montes Spring Harvest Sauvignon Blanc by starting with aromas of lime, pink grapefruit, passion fruit and mineral. On the palate, it becomes savoury and the fruit is enveloped in red pepper and a nice grassiness. But the way this wine unravels on the palate really works: it finishes with nice, clean acidity yet the flavours are nice and reserved.
Strikes a fine line between the more vegetal bottles and the fruity, more affordable options listed here. However, I’ve decided it has more appeal to the tropical Sauv Blanc fans. The aromas and flavours are passion fruit, gooseberry, peach and lime. The texture is light but, on the clean finish, a whisper of bell pepper makes an appearance.
While these winemakers aren’t trying to copy New Zealand, they are definitely aware of the competition. As with red wines from Chile, Sauvignon Blanc offers exceptional value. Many bottles come in under 15 dollars, which puts them just below what you can expect to find from New Zealand. If you were to do a side-by-side comparison, these wines might not hold up if what you’re looking for is intensity, but in terms of overall quality and balance, they are very good wines. So where does that put the rest of the wines? Noelia Orts is on the winemaking team at Emiliana. The Adobe Reserva is one of the cheapest bottles on the table in front of me, but it’s also one of my favourites. Clearly looking to Sancerre, it carries a whole lot of fruit and the pyrazines are buried under an avalanche of passion fruit, pineapple and lime. Orts told me that they harvest Sauvignon Blanc at Emiliana in three phases and then blend the wine down to get the best bottle possible. The Emiliana vineyards are also located in the Casablanca Valley, so it’s interesting how different in style this wine is compared to the Montes offering. Orts echoes the sentiment from Aurelio Montes, Jr.: it’s not about trying to mimic other regions but to make the best wines possible with what the vineyards provide.
I realize that putting these wines into two categories is really simplifying an entire varietal. Given that Montes has a portfolio that offers some very nice premium bottles, I had to ask if he had given any consideration to tossing some Sauvignon Blanc in oak. He told me that, with a few exceptions, oak is something that is not done in Chile. He said that with the ripeness they achieve in the fruit, it’s something he doesn’t believe responds well to spending time in oak barrels. So, don’t expect to find any bottles that say Fumé on the shelves anytime soon. In general, there is a lot of room for growth for white wines from Chile. Orts tells me that there isn’t just interest in Sauvignon Blanc, so we consumers can expect to see more Chardonnay (32 percent of all white grapes if we’re keeping track), but Rousanne, Marsanne, Viognier and Albarino have also caught the attention of winemakers and viticulturists in the country. Just as I was starting to wrap up this piece, one more bottle showed up at my door. The 2017 Montes Outer Limits Sauvignon Blanc crashed the party of affordable bottles by bringing some premium to the table with its $30 price tag. It really shouldn’t be a surprise that this bottle would come from a winery like Montes, as they seem to be leading the charge.
EMILIANA ADOBE RESERVA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017 ($12.95)
This was my favourite bottle on the table, straight up. The tropical fruit climbs out of the glass with nice intensity — passion fruit, pineapple and grapefruit. The savoury note is present, but it’s well integrated and buried under the fruit. The acidity is bright and clean and makes me want to keep a bottle handy for my next fish fry. CALITERRA RESERVA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017 ($10.95)
The tropical notes are present and restrained as apple, lime and grapefruit. The acidity in this wine is crisp and bright, and the finish is clean. ROOT 1 SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016 ($12.95)
A little softer and more restrained than any of the bottles on the table, but definitely a tasty Sauvignon Blanc. The ripe fruit is passion fruit and lime. This is very easy drinking and something that would make a perfect match on the table next to seafood or lighter chicken dishes. 26 @ QUENCH_MAG
MONTES OUTER LIMITS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017, ZAPALLAR COAST ($30)
The vineyards are located 7 km from the Pacific Ocean and the proximity to the ocean helps moderate daytime heat. Tropical notes explode out of the glass with wild intensity. The flavours move from tropical to citrus with lime and pink grapefruit. The savoury note is restrained and well integrated with a note of hay bale buried under a mountain of fruit. It is clear that this isn’t Sancerre, nor is it trying to be New Zealand. Instead, it’s distinctly something different.
So, what’s the final verdict? Is there a distinct style that we can expect? If value is a style, then Chile has got that covered. But, if we’re talking about winemaking, it looks like we’re all over the place. Regardless of style, you’re going to get a quality bottle of wine. The good news is that, at this price point, you can afford to gamble on whether you’re getting something tropical or savoury. ×
VEGAN WINE IS A THING! TRUTH IS, IT HAS BEEN by Konrad Ejbich WITH US ALL ALONG. For many years, I did not know vegan wine was a thing. After all, you just crush grapes and make wine. Grapes are vegan, right?
In its purest form, wine is vegan. Grapes are pressed, the juice is fermented into wine, the wine is left in a tank or barrel until all the suspended solids slowly fall to the bottom of the vessel and then clear wine is bottled. “There are no hurdles to making vegan-friendly wines,” says Ron Giesbrecht, a professor at Niagara College in the Department of Oenology and Viticulture. “I don’t teach a whole course on vegan wines but I take every opportunity to talk about them with respect to fining agents, making sure that people are aware of the options they have as winemakers to make wines in a vegan-friendly manner,” he says. “Many of those options are just as effective and good as the non-vegan methods.”
MAY/JUNE 2018 27
ALLISON CHRIST, THE WINEMAKER AT COLIO, GETS A QUESTION A WEEK ON THE USE OF ANIMAL BY-PRODUCTS.
“WE DON’T LABEL OUR WINES ‘VEGAN-FRIENDLY’; WE JUST MAKE THEM THAT WAY.” HARALD THIEL
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Clarifying or fining involves the introduction of a coagulant into wine, to which all the tiniest particles suspended therein will adhere, including spent yeast cells, grape bits, excess tannins, some pigments as well as potential microbacteria that could lead to spoilage. The wine is then filtered to remove the coagulant along with all the ugly bits. Fining agents can be extracted from plant- or mineral-based elements. These include bentonite clay (the most common), carbon, kaolin clay, limestone, silica gel, plant caseins and vegetable plaques. Some, however, are made from animal by-products. If the coagulant contains albumen (egg whites), casein (milk powder), isinglass (derived from fish bladders) or gelatin (derived from animal bones), the wine no longer qualifies as vegan. A few winemakers roll their eyes at this. They contend that fining agents added to wine are completely filtered out, along with all those cloudy particles. And they say that none of the animal by-product remains in the wine.
VEGANS COUNTER THAT ONCE A WINE HAS TOUCHED ANY ANIMAL-BASED PRODUCTS, IT IS EFFECTIVELY TAINTED. Any exploitation of living creatures
is verboten. By vegan standards, sealing a bottle in a hot beeswax dip to protect the cork is a no-no. Even before completing construction of his Prince Edward County winery, the late Richard Karlo guessed there might be a market for vegan wine. Sherry, his fiancée, was vegan and he wanted to make sure that she could drink his wine. Karlo was convinced that many people, even non-vegans, would opt to buy wine made to those standards. When it opened in 2010, Karlo Estates offered a full portfolio of vegan-friendly wines. Three years later, it became the first winery in North America to be officially designated “Vegan-Certified.” In addition to its premium portfolio of wines, all products sold, served or used at the winery are plant-based. According to Sherry Karlo, “It has done wonders for our business.” The number of people opting for a pure vegan or vegetarian lifestyle has grown 500 percent over the past decade in Canada. Buying vegan-friendly wine is predicted to become a conscious choice for a growing number of people over the next decade. Last spring, Okanagan-based Summerhill Pyramid Winery announced it would begin to feature the term “vegan” on its front labels. At the time, winery CEO Ezra Cipes said questions about these wines had increased substantially at the winery and at retail outlets. As it turns out, a whole lot of Canadian wines are made to vegan standards. For the most part, though, very few winery marketing departments have thought to promote them as such. The only reliable, though incomplete, list of vegan-friendly wines appears online at www.Barnivore.com. Harald Thiel, owner of Hidden Bench Vineyards on Niagara’s Beamsville Bench, says, “We don’t label our wines ‘vegan-friendly’; we just make them that way.”
“We use bentonite for our whites and we don’t fine or filter our reds,” Thiel says, adding that his staff are knowledgeable about his winemaking practices and can advise customers on vegan-friendly wine pairings. Winery manager Meg McGrath adds, “Honestly, we don’t get a lot of questions about vegan wine. People are more interested to learn that we are certified organic.” Veteran winemaker Ann Sperling concurs. All wines produced at the biodynamic Southbrook Vineyards in Niagara where she is winemaker, and all the wines she makes at her family’s certified-organic Sperling Vineyards in the Okanagan Valley, are made strictly to vegan specifications. “It’s pretty easy to exclude animal-based products,” Sperling says. “We made the conscious decision to be vegan-friendly. We just don’t advertise it.” “I’m philosophically opposed to fining because it ‘removes stuff’,” she says. “When you’re working with great vineyards, you want to keep it all in.” Jim Clark, president of Colio Estate Winery of the Lake Erie North Shore appellation in southwestern Ontario tells me, “Vegan wines have not been on my radar. You are the first person to ask me about them. So, I asked around the office: our office staff have had two questions and our winemaker, Alison Christ, fields questions about once a week.” “We only use bentonite in our winery,” Clark adds, “so, basically, all our VQA wines are vegan-friendly.” Although you might never know it, it appears that vegan-friendly wines are everywhere. “We’re vegan by coincidence,” says Darryl Brooker, general manager of Mission Hill Family Estate Winery. He adds that because of all the questions he was getting over the past 15 years, he penned a stock standard response that clearly states, “None of our wines are made with animal products.” Conclusion: yes, vegan wines are a thing ... and you can find them if you try. ×
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POWER
by Evan Saviolidis
AS THE STORY GOES, THERE IS A TOWN CALLED MEDANA. In that town,
you will find a house where many generations of the same family were born — yet they all hold different passports. The grandfather was born in Austria. The father is Italian. And the grandson is Yugoslavian. How may you ask is this possible? It is all because of the powerplays and the subsequent redrawing of boundaries that transpired following World War I and World War II. Today, Medana is in Slovenia, a stone’s throw from Italy and the wine region known as Collio (alternatively, Collio Goriziano), within the province of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Drive for an hour northeast from Venice, and you will arrive in a crescent-shaped region with 1,500 hectares 30 @ QUENCH_MAG
PLAY
of vines. The majority of vineyards are planted on rolling hills upon a bedrock of marl and sandstone known as “Ponca,” which imparts a saline mineral quality to many of the wines. Collio (“hillside” in Italian) has been producing wine since Roman times and this practice continued uninterrupted right through the epochs of the Republic of Venice and Hapsburg dominance. In fact, the wines were highly prized in Russia and Vienna starting in the 1500s. In modern terms, the year 1869 is when the most profound viticultural change happened. French Count Theodore de La Tour married his Austrian love and moved to the area. As a means to help the locals, he subsidized the replanting of vineyards comprising
low-quality grapes with high-end ones from France and Germany. These grapes included notables such as Pinot Grigio (Pinot Gris), Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Today, 17 varieties are authorized, with 85 percent of plantings being white, both indigenous and imported. In this regard, white wine can either be labelled under the Collio Bianco DOC, which represents blends of varying proportions, or numerous single-varietal Collio DOCs. It’s all about the purity of the fruit, with stainless-steel, temperature-controlled ferments being the norm. Some new wood is being used judiciously, but it is still on the fringes. It is also noteworthy to mention that all Collio wines are dry, except for the Picolit grape.
RIBOLLA GIALLA
This native grape has been documented since the 13th century. To show its best, it requires the warmest areas. It tends to produce deeply coloured wines that are light-bodied with notes of peach, pear, lemon and mineral. In the Oslavia enclave, bordering Slovenia, it is the most important grape. There they produce Orange wines with the varietal, along with other white grapes. With skin contact and barrel aging, the varietal takes on the characteristic orange colour and exhibits notes of bruised apple, cream and honey. It is also worth mentioning that Oslavia was one of the first areas, globally, to concentrate on the concept of Orange wines back in the mid-1990s.
FRIULANO
Originally from Veneto, it migrated to Friuli in the 1850s, and today, many consider it the finest of Friuli’s indigenous varietals. Before 2007, this grape was known as Tocai Friulano, but with Hungarian Tokay given sole right to use the name by the EU, the varietal became known as Friulano. All Friulano from Collio is dry, producing full-bodied renditions with peach, honey, floral and spice qualities while finishing on an almond note.
MALVASIA ISTRIANA
Malvasia is a family of grapes (20+ clones) with an ancient pedigree. Said to be from the island of Crete. Venetian traders brought cuttings from Greece to Istria in the 14th century, just a hop, skip and jump away from Collio. The varietal produces high-alcohol zesty whites with a personality of pear, pineapple, herbs, pepper/anise and flowers.
PICOLIT
Although its origins are somewhat nebulous, Picolit has been part of the Friulian landscape for centuries. In fact, by the middle of the 18th century, its status was noble, as it was the favourite drink of
most European courts. Today, in Collio, it accounts for less than 1 percent of plantings, as most producers view it as economically unviable due to meagre yields. The wine is always sweet, produced via either late harvesting or the passito method and subsequently aged in old wood. These wines are not inexpensive, nor are they cloying thanks to their vibrant acidity. Peach, apricot, honeycomb and acacia are all in play.
PINOT GRIGIO
This varietal accounts for 25 percent of all plantings, making it the number one grape in Collio. Collio’s Grigios tend to be fuller and more extracted than the masses of vinified acid water known as Italian Pinot Grigio. Peach, banana, fresh apple, cream, spice and flowers are the hallmarks.
SAUVIGNON BLANC
Sauvignon Blanc ranks second in plantings, and in the glass there is no denying typicity. These wines run the gambit from herbal/lime/grapefruit to peach/ passion fruit/floral and honey. All versions have a lovely streak of minerality running down the spine.
PINOT BIANCO
In my esteem, this grape has excellent potential, but it represents less than 4 percent of vineyard space. In style, it resembles Alsatian versions, with honey, apple, cream, spice, white flowers and great freshness.
THE FUTURE
After receiving its DOC in 1968, Collio started to move from quantity to quality, in the hopes of securing the much-vaunted DOCG status. If all goes well, they will obtain that status sometime in 2018 or 2019. That said, after a week of tasting, I believe that yields still need to be lowered. Yes, there are some truly impressive whites that deserve the higher classification, but there is an equal amount
of average juice. A concerted effort is still required before the entire lot is deserving of DOCG status. Until then, look for top producers. Once DOCG is achieved, the region will then look to create a Gran Selezione designation à la Chianti Classico. According to Consortium president, Robert Princic, “the dream is to create an age-worthy white wine. The two options we are looking at are an indigenous blend of Friulano (40 to 70 percent), Ribolla Gialla (maximum 30 percent) and Malvasia Istriana (maximum 30 percent), with a minimum of two years of aging before release. Alternatively, or possibly concurrently, a Pinot Grigio Superiore.” The producers of Collio realized long ago that, with the masses of cheap white wine produced in Italy and their finite vineyard space, the only way they would succeed would be by taking the quality high road. So, when purchasing, prices will be slightly elevated. Within Italy, their main competition is the Alto-Adige, another premium white wine region with many similarities to Collio. But it’s not all about wine. Being at the confluence of many nations has created a melting pot of food, which is somewhat rustic, with a strong pork influence. The region is home to the famed Prosciutto San Daniele as well as the lesser known, yet equally delicious, Prosciutto di Cormons — a cold-smoked ham using cherry and laurel wood. Pork also finds its way into two local soups: Jota, which is sausage mixed with beans, potatoes and sauerkraut; as well as Fasuj e Uardi, a barley, bean and pork mélange. The famed cheese of the area is Montasio, a raw milk cheese, which can be served as an appetizer alongside prosciutto, or in a dish knows as Frico, which comes in two renditions. The first is a basic cheese crisp/tuile. The second, and my favourite, is akin to rosti. Shredded potatoes and onions are sautéed in oil, and once tender, Montasio is added, which melts, weaving its way through the potatoes and creating a golden crust. There’s simply nothing better. × MAY/JUNE 2018 31
“You cry twice when you come to Basilicata,” says Gerardo Giuratrabocchetti, proprietor of Cantine del Notaio. “Once because it is hard to get here. The second time because you are sad to leave.”
HERE IS by Michaela Morris
VULTURE I was pretty close to having a meltdown by the time I arrived at my hotel in the town of Barile. I’d left Turin in Piedmont on an 8 am train and it was now close to 7 pm. Perhaps it was just hunger as I was quickly pacified by a feast of local specialties that included homemade salumi, broccoli rabe, sweet beans of Sarconi and roasted chestnuts. Ciamot, a scramble of eggs and sausage, seemed odd at dinnertime but made more and more sense with each delicious bite. And the cavatelli pasta, shaped like curled-up leaves, allowed each morsel to hold just the right amount of spicy tomato sauce. Crumbled on top were peperoni cruschi. These red peppers are dried then deep fried and taste better than any potato chip I’ve ever had. They earned second place for my favourite snack in the region. The aged Caciocavallo Podolico came in first. One of Italy’s most expensive cheeses, it is made from the raw milk of a rare breed of cow that grazes freely on flavour-imparting victuals like fennel, juniper and wild strawberries. 32 @ QUENCH_MAG
“WE ALL REPRESENT THE NEXT GENERATION WHO HAVE TAKEN OVER FAMILY PROPERTIES, CREATING OUR ESTATES FROM NOTHING TO SAFEGUARD THE VINEYARDS AND OUR CULTURE.” ELENA FUCCI
Of course, the Aglianico was flowing freely, which was the real premise of my visit. Along with Sangiovese and Nebbiolo, Aglianico is considered among Italy’s greatest red grapes. I fondly refer to it as Nebbiolo’s swarthy southern cousin. Let me be perfectly clear, the two are NOT actually related. However, similarly structured with copious, grippy tannins and plenty of acidity to match, both produce powerful, age-worthy wines. They are also capable of complex and haunting aromas that range from floral to savoury and tar-like. By contrast, Aglianico is deeper in colour and darker in flavour. The greatest and most refined expressions of Aglianico hail from volcanic soil, which lends a smoky note and flinty minerality. In Campania, Basilicata’s western neighbour, the denomination of Taurasi is the reference while in Basilicata, Aglianico reaches its apogee in the area around Mount Vulture. Though relatively close in proximity, one is not an extension of the other and each boasts its own unique terroir and expression. Giuratrabocchetti is my intrepid guide to Vulture. He looks more like a bird watcher than he does a winemaker. I’m sure he does watch birds in his spare time. He knows every aspect of the flora and fauna of the Vulture inside and out. Which is saying a lot for a region that counts approximately 8,600 different insect species alone.
He explains that not all volcanos are created — or erupt — equally. Vulture is an extinct volcano and, according to Giuratrabocchetti, the last eruption was 130,000 years ago. The main one was a massive explosion that blew the top off, reducing the volcano from 2,100 to just over 1,300 metres above sea level. As the lava cooled quickly, crystals had little time to form, resulting in a spongy tuffaceous soil. Prized for its ability to absorb water, this soil remains humid even during long dry spells, providing vines with necessary moisture. “Even in 2017, which was the hottest and summer in history, we did not need to irrigate,” declares Giuratrabocchetti. This is important in Italy’s deep south. Yet Vulture isn’t as torrid as its latitude might suggest. As vineyards reach altitudes of 700 metres above sea level, it gets decidedly cold at night, even in the summer. Besides large diurnals swings, “the area also attracts strong winds,” continues Giuratrabocchetti. It is one of the last places in Italy to harvest. The long, slow ripening is necessary for Aglianico to reach full maturity and the resulting wines are intense and mineral-driven — and not for the faint of heart. The area of Vulture is diverse and sprawling with a range of altitudes. Multiple eruptions have created stark differences in the soil: it’s pitch black in some areas; in other areas, there is white sand; and in others still, it’s ruddy red. The higher-altitude vineMAY/JUNE 2018 33
CANTINE DEL NOTAIO LA FIRMA AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE DOC 2012 ($45)
Giuratrabocchetti is actually a notary and the names of his wines refer to this profession. His different bottlings are crafted from Aglianico picked at different ripening times. La Firma means “signature” and represents the last grapes to be picked — in November. He has also switched from new barriques to older ones for aging. Macerated cherries and sweet violets with melted chocolate notes. The tannins are layered and mouth coating with Aglianico’s tell-tale firmness. ELENA FUCCI TITOLO AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE DOC 2015 ($40)
Intensely mineral and still very young, this excellent Aglianico needs time for all of its sweet and savoury elements, like black liquorice, wild berries and lavender, to knit together. Assertive and commanding. TERRA DEI RE VULCANO 800 PINOT NERO 2016, IGP BASILICATA ($35)
A complete surprise made from Pinot Noir grown at 800 metres above sea level. Apparently, Pinot was planted in Vulture in the 18th century but disappeared in favour of more deeply coloured varieties. Fresh, bright and clean, it demonstrates lovely mountain herb and black raspberry nuances with fine-grained tannins. CANTINA DI VENOSA VERBO MALVASIA 2016, IGP BASILICATA ($15)
This large, 350-member cooperative plays an important role in Vulture by providing a place for small growers to sell their grapes rather than abandoning their vineyards. It has also been instrumental in the revival of Malvasia Bianca di Basilicata, inspiring other producers to recover this rare grape. Lightly aromatic with lemon balm and peach aromas leading to a fleshy pear-laden, honey-tinged palate. DONATO D’ANGELO AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE DOC 2012 ($25)
Donato D’Angelo is one of the references in the Vulture and the Aglianico is top notch. Restrained aromas of rose, red cherry, iron and spice reveal themselves slowly. The palate is polished and sophisticated without lacking character. An elegant Aglianico that will age gracefully. PATERNOSTER DON ANSELMO AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE DOC 1998 ($45)
Paternoster is a well-known estate in Basilicata and has long been associated with the region’s best wine. In 2016, it was sold to the Tommasi family of Amarone fame. It was a treat to try this Aglianico as it approaches its third decade. Tobacco, sous bois and cinnamon with mellowed tannins that have not dried out. TENUTA I GELSI AGLIANICO DOC 2012, IGP BASILICATA ($20)
Made in stainless steel and aged for less time than the DOC requires, this is a charmingly fresh example of Aglianico with fennel, fragrant florals and a juicy core.
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GERARDO GIURATRABOCCHETTI
yards around the towns of Barile and Rapolla are pronounced in volcanic matter while those lower down, around Maschito and Venosa, have less but the latter is particularly iron rich. That said, it is not a case of one being better than the other. “One day we might talk about the communes of Vulture the same way we talk about the communes of Barolo,” suggests Ian D’Agata, an Italian wine authority and author of Native Wine Grapes of Italy. First things first, what’s important is to simply spread the word of Vulture. Despite having such a captivating terroir, which hosts one of Italy’s finest reds, the region remains less known and less travelled. Producers have recognized the challenge and some have banded together to strengthen promotional efforts. Giuratrabocchetti is the ringleader of Qui Vulture, which translates as “here is Vulture” and assembles 11 producers representing the majority of the denomination’s production. Another such group is Generation Vulture, an independent association of young, up-and-coming estates mostly small in size. Elena Fucci, one of the region’s top producers belongs to this group. She explains, “We all represent the next generation who have taken over family properties, creating our estates from nothing to safeguard the vineyards and our culture.” While I can’t help but think that all would be better off if the two associations joined forces, but group promotion in general is a step in the right direction. And the future of Vulture hinges on the new generation at all its estates. This is a region where the young typically leave to seek their fortunes elsewhere. However, now they have an appreciation and passion for what is in their
own backyard. “We are in love with Vulture, with Aglianico and this marvellous territory that has everything to discover,” says Fucci. The potential is palpable. Faults like oxidation, volatile acidity and Brettanomyces still crop up but the region has been producing better and better wines. Besides more refined winemaking, many estates are questioning fashions of the past and being more thoughtful about how they use wood. At Terra dei Re, oenologist Leon Caparelli believes, “Botte gives a better balance of tannin whereas barrique imparts it unnecessarily.” As of 2017, the winery is transitioning to these larger format vessels for its Aglianico. Other issues, namely the DOP regulations, remain a source of contention. A distinction is made between the Vulture DOC and the Vulture Superiore DOCG. While both stipulate 100 percent Aglianico, the former requires 10 months of aging versus three years for the latter, of which 12 months must be in barrel. There is even a Riserva level, which mandates five years of aging and a full 24 months in barrel. But does this mean better wine? Not necessarily. “The DOCG doesn’t help anything,” declares Donato D’Angelo, owner of the eponymous estate. Truly many of the best producers eschew it all together. When I left Basilicata, I wasn’t quite reduced to tears. However, I had been so well fed and warmly welcomed that it felt like I was saying goodbye to family. There is no famous colosseum, romantic gondolas or leaning towers but there is an extinct volcano, pristine crater lakes, tasty food and fascinating wines. It will be impossible for me not to return. × MAY/JUNE 2018 35
C’EST TOUT
by Michael Pinkus
Sure, we know New Zealand for Sauvignon Blanc — after all, it’s what made the country a household name — but there are other grape varieties that should now share some of the spotlight that’s on the little-island-that-could in the South Hemisphere.
NOIR
For many years, New Zealand has been overshadowed by its southern neighbour. However, while Australia’s star in the wine world has fallen, New Zealand’s has continued to rise. Since winemakers and growers know that can’t last, they are trying to show the world there is more to New Zealand wine than just Sauvignon Blanc. There’s also Pinot Gris and Chardonnay on the North and South Island, but New Zealand shouldn’t be seen as only a white wine destination; there are reds in those hills too. That’s where those grapes are growing, especially Pinot Noir, which is garnering a lot of attention and excitement, up and down the islands. Pinot Noir is having its day in the sun and people are paying special attention to the grape across New Zealand. From the juicy, easy-drinking versions being made in Marlborough to the alternative styles of Martinborough, right down to the robust, complex and elegant versions being made in the Central Otago, Pinot lovers should be keeping an eye open for what’s next because this grape is definitely on deck.
DR STEPHANIE LAMBERT, WINEMAKER AT AMISFIELD
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ESCARPMENT TE REHUA PINOT NOIR 2016, MARTINBOROUGH ($67)
Rich dark berries with a hint of baked plum and gentle spice. There’s also a tickle of floral along with some herbal character and a complex tannic finish that appears non-aggressive. TE KAIRANGA RUNHOLDER PINOT NOIR 2016, MARTINBOROUGH ($30)
Made from the oldest and best vines on the Martinborough Terrace. Spiced blueberry and raspberry on the nose followed by strawberry, cran-cherry and some savoury bits. Subtly creamy mid with gentle spice on the finish. MARTINBOROUGH VINEYARD HOME BLOCK PINOT NOIR 2015, MARTINBOROUGH ($59)
ESCARPMENT TE REHUA WINEMAKER HUW KINCH
Pinot Noir has become a passion for many winemakers. But while there is also a love of Chardonnay because of how it can be manipulated, Pinot does not provide that luxury. The grape is fickle and finicky, yet the results can be magical if handled in the proper way. Having recently visited the country and tasted Pinot Noir from top to bottom, I can safely say the diversity coming out of New Zealand is as good as anywhere in the world — and getting better. It truly is a Pinot-lover’s paradise. Whether you like ’em juicy or chewy, tannin-laced or smooth as silk, New Zealand has got you covered as each region continues to evolve its Pinot program, with more vines going into the ground (the right kind of ground) all the time. With each additional planting, winemakers have more material to play with. At this rate, I would not be surprised to see Zealand on the lips of every Pinot drinker within the next five to 10 years. Here are fifteen reasons why…
35-year-old vines with the addition of 15% whole-bunch press helps give this wine some weight and spice without going over the top. Cherry liquorice nose leads to a palate of sweet black cherry, anise and white pepper. ATA RANGI PINOT NOIR 2016, MARTINBOROUGH ($67)
A parcel blend from fruit that’s more than 20 years old and aged 6 months extra in oak after blending. Mineral and spiced plum sit at the core of this wine while the fruit comes across dark and spicy. To be released this fall. PALLISER ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2016, MARTINBOROUGH ($45)
There’s a back-end tension to this wine that makes it stand out: it has a spicy edge on the nose while on the palate it’s plum and dark fruit with some smoked-cranberry notes.
MAY/JUNE 2018 37
then aged in 40% new oak. Big red fruit, red liquorice and a slightly savoury note that turns spicy on the finish. Very elegant. FELTON ROAD BLOCK 5 PINOT NOIR 2016, CENTRAL OTAGO ($78)
An un-fined and un-filtered Pinot taken almost entirely off a 1.7-hectare block and aged 16 months in oak. Surprisingly delicate with a mocha-latte and cherry nose that follows onto the palate. Retains great acidity and hints of smoke and spice on the finish. AKARUA KOLO PINOT NOIR 2015, CENTRAL OTAGO ($77)
It’s a bruiser of a Pinot, but by the time you reach the end there’s a delicacy you didn’t see coming. Plum, black cherry, and mineral kick things off, robust tannins show up middle to finish but so too do cinnamon, clove, pepper and a pretty floral nuance. MAHI WINES PINOT NOIR 2016, MARLBOROUGH ($31)
DOG POINT VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2015, MARLBOROUGH ($43)
SERESIN LEAH PINOT NOIR 2014, MARLBOROUGH ($30)
Three weeks on skins and 15 months in oak, with only 8% new, gives this wine a freshness of fruit you would not expect: cranberry, blueberry and pretty bits of sour cherry on the finish.
Makers and growers of only 3 grapes (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir) so they have to do them all justice. These 22-year-old vines are planted on their own root stock and produce a savoury, plummy, Christmas spice, blackberry and smoky version while adding clove and cinnamon on the finish.
This biodynamic vineyard has a good handle on Pinot Noir and in this version (they make quite a few) violets meet cran-cherry, deriving a silky palate that shows savoury notes and gentle spice on the finish.
CLOUDY BAY TE WAHI PINOT NOIR 2014, CENTRAL OTAGO ($72)
This Marlbrough winery realized the potential of the Otago early on and now produces this beauty annually. It’s a fruit-driven affair that’s rich with texture helped by the acidity of the area. Spiced blackberry and wood smoke show themselves mid-palate, but it’s the peppery-spicy finish with a hint of floral that makes this one so special. ALLAN SCOTT GENERATIONS PINOT NOIR 2016, MARLBOROUGH ($27)
Simple meets tasty in this bottle: black cherry, strawberry, cranberry and earthy notes with a finish that lingers on with cherry and spice. 38 @ QUENCH_MAG
MARISCO VINEYARDS THE KINGS WRATH PINOT NOIR 2016, MARLBOROUGH ($27)
Lots of restraint is shown both on the nose and palate, especially when you consider it saw 50% new oak for 9 months, in larger pungent format, not barrique. Violet, cran-cherry, earthy and juicy at its core, it’s fruit-driven with a tense tannin backbone. PEGASUS BAY PRIMA DONNA PINOT NOIR 2013, WAIPARA VALLEY ($81.50)
A barrel selection taken from the un-grafted and oldest vines on the property, because those give the best skin to juice ratio,
PEREGRINE PINOT NOIR 2015, CENTRAL OTAGO ($41)
We’re heading down closer to Queenstown here, yet it’s still Otago. We’re looking at a marginal grape-growing climate where Pinot thrives. This is a 3 sub-region blend that shows depth of dark fruit, spice, mocha and black cherry. AMISFIELD RESERVE RKV PINOT NOIR 2014 ($109)
From the Rocky Knoll Vineyard, a 2-hectare plot that gets some pretty special treatment from beginning to end. Well-structured with spiced red fruit up front and black fruits like black cherry, plum and blackberry all mingling with elegant spices. ×
POKE
MADNESS by Lisa Hoekstra
The culinary trends of 2018 build on those things consumers want more and more: new experiences, variety of protein, sustainable ingredients and street-style convenience sourced from every corner of the world. One dish that checks each and every one of those boxes is Hawaii’s poke bowl. “So, first things first: poke is pronounced ‘po-kay’ — or even ‘po-kee’ would be acceptable,” explains Jak Wong, who owns The Poke Guy in Vancouver with his wife, Angela. They started the restaurant in 2016 as a way to enjoy the dish all year round, as opposed to only when visiting Angela’s relatives in Hawaii. “So ‘poke’ is actually a native Hawaiian verb — and it means to ‘cross cut’ or ‘dice.’ This means that you can technically ‘poke’ anything: chicken, beef, vegetables. The name has become synonymous with fish — and more specifically, ahi tuna —because that is the most abundant type of poke in Hawaii.” While poke bowls are often labelled as “fish salads,” or a variation on sashimi, that’s not always the case. In fact, you can make them with any type of protein (or none, if you prefer). This versatility, combined with the great flavours, is part of the, if not the whole, reason poke bowls have captured the hearts and stomachs of Canadians over the past two years. “Canadians are very health conscious. Not only is poke delicious, it has many health benefits, as fish is loaded with Omega 3,” says Cindy Nguyen. She and her husband, David, own Po-ke in Calgary, where she creates new recipes for the menu. “People are getting tired of eating chicken and salad overall when dieting.” MAY/JUNE 2018 39
THE STAFF AT HAMILTON’S POKEH: SHAYNE MADADI, SALAR MADADI AND KAREN ANCHETA
“There is a huge shift in lifestyle and diet, which I believe has had a major impact on how poke is being received in Canada,” mentions Wong. “People are becoming increasingly conscious of what they are consuming and they are actively selecting alternatives, which is where the poke bowl fits in.” The Poke Guy partners with Ocean Wise to ensure that its seafood is sourced sustainably and with respect to the environment. Of course, the fact the bowl is delicious also helps quite a bit. Salar Madadi, manager and chef at the Hamilton-based Pokeh, Canada’s first poke bowl restaurant, fell in love with poke on his honeymoon in 2012. “We tried it at a literal hole in the wall named Poke-Poke, and went back for a bunch after that,” Madadi recounts. “I think poke became popular because it’s a fantastic meal and people just had to try it. It’s fresh, healthy and uses very little in the way of processed ingredients. It’s adaptable for people with almost any kind of allergy or diet plan, and most importantly, it’s delicious.” WHILE IT IS NOW A MAIN COURSE FOR MANY, POKE STARTED OUT AS A SNACK FOR FISHERMEN — THEY’D SEASON THE RAW FISH AND MUNCH ON IT TO TIDE THEM OVER UNTIL THEY GOT HOME. “The evolution of poke is something that
is really fascinating to me,” Madadi explains. “It started using reef fish, seaweed, kukui nuts and salt. As immigration brought other cultures to Hawaii, and fishing practices changed, the types of seafood used changed, and the other cultures added their own influences, like adding shoyu. When it started to get picked up in 40 @ QUENCH_MAG
California, there was another evolution, with more of a change to being freshly mixed as opposed to marinated, and more fresh vegetables being brought into play.” In fact, in Hawaii, the bowl format is still uncommon. “Poke is what Hawaiians call a ‘pu pu’ dish — finger foods or appetizers,” explains Wong. “The most common way that we’ve experienced poke in a Hawaiian household is usually as an appetizer that goes along with the other main courses — and there are usually A LOT of main courses.” The bowl format is very popular in the U.S. and Canada. As Madadi mentions, it started in California, and spread from there. While the contents do change, one theme remains the same in every poke bowl: it always consists of at least three “layers”: the protein, the additions/ingredients and the sauce. “The traditional bowl consists of five main ingredients … such as soy sauce, sea salt, green onions, Maui onions and limu, a seaweed,” explains Nguyen. “Modern and West Coast versions of poke can include avocado, ponzu sauce, teriyaki sauce, mushrooms, crispy onions, pickled jalapeno, Sriracha sauce, cilantro, pineapple or cucumber.” Preparation of the bowl varies from place to place — another example of its versatility. “At The Poke Guy, we prepare ours the traditional Hawaiian way: the poke is marinated before the customer enjoys it. Our bowls have an incredible depth of flavours,” Wong states. “[It] is delicious by itself, but we also have a variety ingredients and sauces to fine-tune and complement the poke in your bowl.”
TRADITIONAL SHOYU POKE While Wong focusses on authentic Hawaiian prep, Madadi prefers to add another level of evolution to his bowls. “What we do at Pokeh is a natural evolution from there, bringing in another layer of influences to make our version,” he says. “We like to provide contrasts in our poke bowls — with differences between textures and tastes and temperatures. Cool fish on hot rice is one, and the many types of textures we incorporate — from the fish, to the fresh vegetables, to the crunchy toppings, to the creamy sauces. All of the layers and contrast make each bite delicious and different.” At Po-ke, Nguyen and her husband focus on the sauce, and use that to influence the layers. “We make our own savoury signature sauce that’s a miso base, and it’s loaded with flavour … No one but David and I knows this sauce recipe,” Nguyen says. “All of the layers play off one another, giving various textures and tastes in each bite. We recommend the right proportion of fish and rice in every bite along with other ingredients.” At the forefront of every poke bowl is the ingredients, and the mantra “fresh is best” holds true here. “To make poke the way they do in Hawaii,” Wong explains, “you need fresh fish — the fresher the better — sweet onions, green onions, shoyu-flavoured poke sauce, a little bit of Hawaiian salt — sea salt can be used as a substitute — sesame oil, ogo seaweed — if you want that ‘oceany’ taste — macadamia nuts and sesame seeds. From here, you can enjoy it with some warm rice and add veggies and toppings as you please. My personal favourite flavour of poke is our Hula-peno ahi. I usually pair that up with brown rice, edamame, wasabi-slaw — something that we whip up at the shop — sweet corn, imitation crab, cilantro, green onion, crispy onions, masago, nori and top off the salad with a little bit of roasted sesame dressing.” “Fresh fish is the essential component of a great poke dish,” Nguyen adds. “You always want to ensure that you’re using only high-quality sushi grade fish when making poke, as it’s raw fish and you don’t want to run the risk of getting sick.” The seasoning and sauce should be added with restraint, so it adds flavour without drowning or overpowering the dish. “Taste your poke as you’re making it and adjust the seasoning as you go,” Madadi advises. “My favourite poke is our spicy bowl with jicama and green mango added. I love the heat from the spicy kewpie mayo, spicy sesame seeds and pickled jalapenos, the crunch from the jicama and the slight tartness from the green mango.” If you plan on experimenting with your own bowls at home, remember these tips from the experts. The first, is, of course, finding fresh ingredients. The second is to marinate your protein. “If making the traditional shoyu sauce, let the fish marinate for 24 hours before serving,” Nguyen explains, “this will allow the sauce to soak into the fish.” Go easy on the sauce, serve with warm rice, make enough to share and, my favourite, experiment! To me, in the end, the poke bowl is about finding that depth and those layers of flavours that will give you a unique experience with each bite — and remind you just how wonderful nature’s produce can be. So, head to your farmers’ market, find yourself some fish and try out these recipes from the poke experts! ×
BY JAK WONG, THE POKE GUY SERVES 4
We always recommend using wild and sustainably caught seafood.
450 g fresh fish (or seafood) 1/4 cup shoyu (soy sauce or tamari) 1/4 cup sweet onion, chopped 2 tbsp green onion, chopped 1 tsp fresh ginger, grated 2 tsp Alaea salt (Hawaiian sea salt) 1 tsp sesame oil Sesame seeds or furikake (Japanese rice seasoning) 1. Cut fish into 1/2-inch cubes, set aside. 2. Make the marinade by combining the shoyu, onions, ginger, salt and sesame oil in a bowl. Add the cubed fish to the marinade and mix well so that all the fish is covered. Refrigerate and marinate for a minimum of 15 minutes. 3. Season with some sesame seeds or furikake. 4. Serve with rice or salad.
POKEH’S CLASSIC POKE BY SALAR MADADI, POKEH SERVES 2
We use Calrose rice and Yamasa soy sauce.
1 4 2 250 1/3 2 1 2 1 1/2
cup uncooked short-grain or sushi rice tsp soy sauce tsp sesame oil g raw ahi tuna, cut into bite-sized cubes cup cucumbers, diced tbsp white onion, finely diced tbsp green onion, finely sliced tbsp macadamia nuts, roughly chopped tsp black and white sesame seeds
1. In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine rice and 2 cups water. Stir, cover and bring to a gentle boil. Turn heat down to low and continue to cook covered on a gentle simmer for 20 minutes, or until the rice is tender and most of water is absorbed. Remove from heat, fluff with a fork and set aside. 2. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the soy sauce and sesame oil. Toss in the tuna, cucumber, and onions, ensuring everything is evenly coated. 3. Transfer the rice to a serving bowl. Top with the marinated tuna mixture. Garnish with macadamia nuts and sesame seeds just before serving.
MAY/JUNE 2018 41
BOUQUET GARNI NANCY JOHNSON
THE LOVELY MONTH OF MAY
This is the time of year when the weather is just right for entertaining. If you’re planning a Mother’s Day brunch or a backyard barbecue for Father’s Day, these recipes will fit the bill. If you run into foul weather on the day of your festivities, just move the whole operation indoors.
CREOLE SHRIMP
You could use a store-bought Creole seasoning but making your own allows you to control the heat and salt. I love this dish because it marinates and bakes while you enjoy a glass of wine with your dinner guests.
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp homemade Creole spice mix (recipe follows) 2 tbsp low sodium soy sauce 1 tbsp honey 1000 g large shrimp, peeled, deveined and tails removed Cooked brown rice Chopped scallions, for garnish 1. In a large baking dish, whisk olive oil, 2 tbsp Creole spice mix, soy sauce and honey. Add shrimp, stir to coat, cover and marinate in fridge 1 hour. 2. Preheat oven to 450˚F. Bake shrimp in marinade, uncovered, 10 minutes or until shrimp are pink and cooked through. Serve over brown rice, garnished with scallions. 42 @ QUENCH_MAG
HOMEMADE CREOLE SPICE MIX
Add more or less of the salt, black and cayenne peppers, to taste. IN A SMALL BOWL, MIX:
2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1/4
tbsp sweet paprika tbsp garlic powder tbsp onion powder tsp salt tsp black pepper tsp dried oregano tsp dried thyme tsp cayenne pepper
Store remaining spice mix in an airtight container in the fridge. Great for seasoning vegetables, meat, seafood, soup, stews, gumbo and rice.
× SEARCH THROUGH A WIDE RANGE OF WINE-FRIENDLY RECIPES ON WWW.QUENCH.ME/RECIPES/
GRILLED LAMB CHOPS WITH KALAMATA OLIVE VINAIGRETTE
Lovely spring and early summer dish, especially when barbecued. Delicious when served with grilled red potatoes and zucchini.
2 1 1 1/4 8 1/2 8
anchovy fillets clove garlic, smashed tbsp fresh lemon juice cup extra virgin olive oil pitted Kalamata olives, chopped tsp fresh rosemary, chopped Salt and pepper, to taste lamb loin chops, about 1-inch thick
1. In a food processor, mince anchovy fillets, garlic, lemon juice and olives. Add olive oil and process until smooth. Transfer to bowl and stir in rosemary. Set aside. 2. Season lamb chops with salt and pepper. Grill chops over high heat, turning once, until browned, about 7 minutes for medium-rare or until internal temperature reaches 145˚F. Transfer 2 chops to each of 4 dinner plates. Spoon Kalamata Olive Dressing on top. MATCH: Pair with Shiraz or a dry rosé.
PARMIGIANO REGGIANO-CRUSTED CHICKEN WITH ARUGULA AND PINE NUT SALAD 4 1/2 1 1 3/4 1/2 2 2 3 1 3 1/3 1 1/2
boneless, skinless chicken breast filets Salt and pepper, to taste cup flour, for dredging tbsp Dijon mustard egg cup Italian seasoned bread crumbs cup Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, freshly grated cups arugula cups mixed greens tbsp apple cider vinegar tsp sugar tbsp extra virgin olive oil cup pine nuts, toasted cups cherry tomatoes, sliced
1. Preheat oven to 450˚F. 2. Place flour on a plate. In a small bowl, whisk Dijon mustard and egg. Place bread crumbs, cheese, salt and pepper in a food storage bag. Shake bag to mix. 3. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Dredge chicken on both sides in flour. Dredge in mustard/egg mixture to coat. Place in food storage bag and shake to coat chicken evenly. Place chicken on baking sheet. Bake chicken about 15 to 20 minutes, turning once, until browned and cooked through to an internal temperature of 165˚F. 4. Meanwhile, prepare salad: In a large bowl, whisk vinegar and sugar. Whisk in olive oil. Add salt, to taste. Toss arugula and mixed greens with dressing. 5. Divide salad among 4 dinner plates. Top with chicken, pine nuts and cherry tomatoes. Garnish with cheese. MATCH: Open a Sauvignon Blanc.
TILAPIA AND QUINOA WITH BLOOD ORANGE AND AVOCADO SALSA SERVES 4
4 1/4 2 1 2 2 4 2 1 2
large blood oranges, peeled cup fresh orange juice ripe avocados, peeled and diced scallion, thinly sliced tbsp olive oil Kosher salt and pepper, to taste tbsp extra virgin olive oil, divided tilapia fillets tbsp cilantro leaves, chopped cup quinoa cups chicken or vegetable broth
1. Break oranges into segments. Over a large bowl, remove membrane from each segment, catching the juices in the bowl. Chop segments into bite-sized pieces. 2. Add 1/4 cup orange juice to bowl; gently stir in oranges and avocado, scallion, olive oil, salt and pepper. Set aside. 3. Rinse quinoa and drain well. In a medium saucepan, heat quinoa with broth to boiling. Reduce heat, cover and simmer 15 to 20 minutes or until quinoa is tender. Drain and keep warm. 4. In a large skillet, heat 1 tbsp olive oil over medium high. Season tilapia with salt and pepper. Reduce heat to medium low and pan-fry 2 fillets at a time until golden and cooked through, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a platter and cover with foil to keep warm. Add remaining olive oil to skillet and repeat with remaining fillets. 5. Divide quinoa among 4 dinner plates. Place tilapia over quinoa. Spoon orange and avocado salsa over tilapia. Garnish with cilantro. MATCH: Very good with a Spanish Cava.
GRILLED HONEY BUTTER CHICKEN SERVES 6
Substitute freshly squeezed orange juice for the lemon juice. If using boneless chicken breast fillets, grill about 5 to 6 minutes per side.
1/2 1 2 2 1 12
cup butter, room temperature garlic clove, minced tbsp fresh lemon juice tbsp honey tbsp fresh thyme, minced Salt and pepper, to taste Extra-virgin olive oil for brushing bone-in chicken thighs
1. In a medium bowl, mix butter, garlic, lemon juice, honey and thyme. Season with salt and pepper. 2. Brush chicken with oil. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Grill over moderate heat, turning occasionally, until charred in spots and cooked through, 20 to 25 minutes or until internal temperature is 160 ˚F. Brush chicken with honey butter. Cook, turning and brushing, until glazed, about 2 minutes. MATCH: A Grenache blanc is very good with this dish. × MAY/JUNE 2018 43
YOU CAN MAKE IT
NOTHING SAYS ITALY LIKE THIS COCKTAIL
An apéritif from Italy dating back to 1919, the blend of bitter and sweet in this classic cocktail will make you fall in love with all things Italian — all over again. Similar to the martini, there are many variations of the negroni, but the classic (which you can play with until you find the combo of ingredients that work best for you) is as follows:
CLASSIC NEGRONI 1 1 1
oz dry gin oz Campari oz sweet vermouth Orange peel
TWO WAYS TO SERVE:
Option 1: Combine ingredients in an old-fashioned glass filled with ice. Stir to combine. Twist orange peel over drink for aromatics. Garnish with orange peel. Option 2: Combine ingredients in a mixing glass and fill with ice. Stir for 20 seconds. Strain into chilled cocktail glass. Twist orange peel over drink for aromatics. Garnish with orange peel. × 44 @ QUENCH_MAG
BUYING GUIDE All wines listed are recommended by our experienced panel of tasters. Each wine is rated based on its varietal character, representation of style and/or region, balance and price-quality ratio. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Browse our experts’ tasting notes to find the wines that may appeal to your taste or pique your interest to try something new. Afterall, one of the best parts about wine is the discovery. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and will likely vary from province to province. A large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, so check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Treve Ring, Tim Pawsey, Silvana Lau, Craig Pinhey and Jonathan Smithe. *Available through private import and wine clubs
SPARKLING
winery’s disgorgement dates). Dry, crisp, lightly fruity and lively but serious, this is a refreshingly distinct rosado cava to seek out on our shelves. (TR)
SAUVION BRUT CRÉMANT DE LOIRE AOP, FRANCE ($24)
JACKSON-TRIGGS ENTOURAGE GRAND RESERVE BRUT NV, ONTARIO ($30)
Shows fine, persistent bead in the glass with a delicate floral scent over green fruit and a whiff of brioche. Green fruit flavours are delivered in a creamy textured, medium weight package supported by firm mineral and lively acidity. Finish is lightly fruity with a splash of vanilla. (SW) AGUSTI TORELLO MATA TREPAT RESERVA ROSADO 2014, DO CAVA, SPAIN ($28)
Frisky and fruity, with cranberry and raspberry tinged with thistles, roses, pink grapefruit and grippy toast. This is 100% Trepat from the Alt Penedès region of Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, disgorged July 2017 (on the back label, as are all this × FIND A COLLECTION OF TASTING NOTES FOR WINE, BEER AND SPIRITS AT QUENCH.ME/THENOTES/
A very flavourful bubbly. Pale straw in colour; minerally, citrus and apple bouquet; medium-bodied, dry, apple flavour; well-balanced with good length. (TA) ANDRÉ ET MIREILLE TISSOT CRÉMANT DU JURA EXTRA BRUT NV, AC CRÉMANT DE JURA, FRANCE ($30)
Impressive crémant, among the best I’ve tasted from the Jura, where crémant makes up nearly one third of wines. The numbers are similar with this biodynamic Tissot (one of many Tissots), with fizz comprising approximately one quarter of their production. This focused Extra Brut is half Chardonnay with 40% Pinot Noir and the remainder split between
MAY/JUNE 2018 45
BUYING GUIDE Poulsard and Trousseau, with 18 months spent on the lees and no dosage at bottling (and very little sulfur). Meringue, toast, lemon brioche on the lifted palate, tight and nervy with green apple cut and buzzy acidity, but with a depth of crushed stone and vanilla-bean meringue dust that is alluring. The finish is alive, humming and vibrant. Fantastic value for an exciting wine. (TR)
precise with a saline nose of sea breeze, toasted vanilla, brioche and fresh cut citrus. It’s bracingly dry on the palate, layered and textured, with energy and verve that serve the sharp citrus and green apple notes well. Can only imagine how this would pair with fresh island crab. (RV)
notes with a hint of honey before a lush and refreshing, gently creamy palate with gentle lemon lime notes and a fresh lingering finish. (TP)
CATHERINE ET PIERRE BRETON LA DILETTANTE VOUVRAY BRUT NV, AOC VOUVRAY, LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE ($46)
HUSH HEATH ESTATE BALFOUR 1503 CLASSIC CUVÉE BRUT, KENT, UNITED KINGDOM ($33)
Catherine and Pierre Breton champion biodynamic viticulture in the Loire, use native yeasts and eschew much sulfur. They have been farming organically since 1987 and biodynamically since 1999. This is a pretty, light, elderflower and apple-blossomed sparkling Chenin Blanc from Vouvray. Traditional method (from two vintages) with 24 months on the lees and a light touch, deftly merging autolysis with subtle white florals. Gentle white peach lingers on the tight, bright, dry finish, with a gingersnap scented on the finish. Effortless and easily drinkable, especially at breakfast/brunch. (TR)
From a warm vintage comes this intense Riesling featuring peach compote, bergamot, lime, citrus and mineral. The sweetness (35g/l) is more apparent in this vintage when compared to a cooler year such as 2014 (my favorite), where there is an electric acidity. Drink now. (ES)
Showing persistent fine bead in the glass, this one offers inviting scents of white flowers with citrus and toasty brioche aromas. Clean lemon citrus flavour leads off on the palate, with green apple notes, good weight, refreshing but unaggressive acidity and a lick of mineral. A worthy competitor to non-vintage Champagne. (SW) WEINGUT SELBACH-OSTER RIESLING BRUT 2014, MOSEL, GERMANY ($33)
One of the few traditional method sekt on this market and one worth seeking out. Mosel Riesling spends 18 to 24 months on the lees, and the dosage is an aged Auslese, both of which help the sometimes-rocky marriage of Riesling and autolysis. Just off dry, with scents of nectarines and fleshy peach, candied apricot and gingersnap on the finish. Acidity is lifted and buoyant, with herbal lime leaf threaded throughout. Serious and ideal for pairing with Thai or Vietnamese. (TR) 40 KNOTS SPINDRIFT EXTRA-BRUT 2014, COMOX VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($37)
This highly stylistic sparkler, which spends two years on its lees, is lean and 46 @ QUENCH_MAG
VINELAND ESTATES ELEVATION ST. URBAN VINEYARD RIESLING 2016, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT ($20)
CHABERTON CHARDONNAY RESERVE 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($20)
Grapes from Oliver’s Gehringer Brothers Vineyard yield orchard fruits and quiet buttery notes before a fresh and lively palate of citrus and tropical notes, creamy texture with juicy acidity and a streak of minerality through a zesty, vibrant close. (TP)
CHILE
WHITE
VISTAMAR CORTE DE CAMPO COASTAL BLEND 2015, CASABLANCA VALLE ($19)
UNDER $20
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
A blend of Chardonnay and Viognier. Palest lime in colour, it has a toasty nose of apple with a floral grace note; full-bodied and dry, it’s rich and full on the palate with a spicy lemony finish. Highly recommended. (TA)
CANADA HESTER CREEK PINOT GRIS/VIOGNIER 2017, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($19)
From Osoyoos, an appealing aromatic blend yields upfront tropical and citrus
SAN PEDRO 1865 SINGLE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2015, ELQUI VALLEY ($20)
From Elqui (the Valley of the Stars) comes this super crisp Chardonnay, which is grown on chalky soils. Stone
TWO SISTERS VINEYARDS CABERNET FRANC 2013, NIAGARA-ON-THE LAKE ($49) A SERIOUS RED BY ANY STANDARD. DEEP RUBY COLOUR WITH A CEDARY, VANILLA OAK, SLIGHTLY FERAL NOSE OF PLUM AND CURRANTS. MEDIUM TO FULL-BODIED, WELL-STRUCTURED, RIPE FRUIT, GREAT MOUTH-FEEL, CHUNKY ON THE PALATE. A SEAMLESS WINE WORTHY OF ANYONE’S CELLAR. TBY TONY ASPLER
fruit, tree fruit and judicious oak create an elegant and food-friendly wine. Lobster or sea bass in a beurre blanc sauce would be divine. (ES)
FRANCE PAUL JABOULET AINÉ PARALLÈLE 45 BLANC 2015, AOC CÔTES DU RHÔNE ($19)
White florals, lemon blossom and verbena dominate this accessible blend from one of Northern Rhône’s leading estates, first established in 1834. The Parallelès line, their ‘entry level’ tier, was named because the 45th parallel runs two kilometres from the domaine’s cellars near Tain L’Hermitage. This cuvée began in 1950 and represents the Jaboulet commitment to producing France’s finest Rhône. The estate has been under the purview of the Frey family for the past decade or so, and Caroline Frey is currently oenologist and proprietor. Biodynamically farmed, this blend of Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Viognier and Bourboulenc averages 20 years of age and comes from two family farms on the right side of the Rhône river. Succulent but streamlined, this was stainless formed and raised, with no
MLF. Lean and lemony, with a padding of herbal oils and citrus cream, textural spicing, before a snappy, stony finish. Excellent value, this wine would rock with green curries, white-fleshed fish or scallops, or spring pea risotto. House white, solved. (TR) PAUL MAS SINGLE VINEYARD ESTATE COLLECTION LA FORGE VINEYARD MARSANNE 2015, PAYS D’OC IGP ($20)
Grown on a hillside vineyard overlooking the Aude Valley, well suited to producing Marsanne, this is a well-made wine showing floral and delicate stone fruit on the nose. Stylish varietal notes of peach and supporting citrus flavours are well-balanced with gently refreshing acidity on the finish. An excellent apéritif or drink with Mediterranean-style sea foods. (SW)
sweet. A great bargain, this gorgeous wine has a nose of honey, lime and warm hay. Light in body, it fairly dances on the palate with sweet, honeyed grapefruit and mineral flavours, ending on a note of tarragon. Chill and serve as an apéritif or with pork dishes. (TA)
PORTUGAL DELAFORCE ALVARINHO 2015, DOURO VALLEY ($17)
Alvarinho is arguably Portugal’s best grape for white wine. Straw-coloured, this wine has a minerally, oily nose of peaches with a toasty oak note; full-bodied and dry, its richly extracted peach and citrus flavours fill the mouth and linger a long time. (TA)
NEW ZEALAND GERMANY DR. SIEMENS SERRIGER WÜRZBURG RIESLING KABINETT FEINHERB 2008, MOSEL ($18)
If you see the term Feinherb on a bottle of German wine, it means it’s slightly
ANNA’S WAY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, MARLBOROUGH ($19)
Almost water-white in colour but don’t be fooled by its lack of depth. Grassy, green herbs, lime on the nose with a light floral note, it fairly explodes with vibrant green MAY/JUNE 2018 47
BUYING GUIDE fruits on the palate; light to medium-bodied, it’s crisply dry, beautifully balanced with a lovely mouth-feel and good length. Highly recommended. (TA)
with a soft mouthfeel but adequate acidity, and simple flavours of apple, grapefruit and rose petals. (RL)*
herbs, green apple, pink grapefruit, papaya, passion fruit and citrus. Serve alongside goat cheese crostini or grilled haddock drizzled with lemon, olive oil and fresh oregano. (ES)
AUSTRALIA SOUTH AFRICA WARWICK PROFESSOR BLACK SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, WESTERN CAPE ($15)
Clear, pale green-tinted yellow. Fairly robust nose of lime, gooseberry and cut grass. Light-bodied, tastes of lime, melon and elderflower. Will stay fresh for another year. Ideal for a parchment-steamed piece of salmon. (RL)*
LINDEMAN’S BIN 65 CHARDONNAY 2017, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA ($13)
Tropical fruit and floral note on the nose develop on the palate as yellow tropical and citrus fruit with a touch of grapefruit. Finishes with crisp acidity and a light buttery note. Ever reliable and excellent value. (SW)
ROSEWOOD ESTATE LOCKED & LOADED WHITE 2016, NIAGARA ($17)
This has an interesting nose of apples, fresh-cut citrus, gunflint, pear and light spice notes. It has lovely texture on the palate with well-integrated orchard fruits, citrus and moderate spice notes. A white wine that punches outside its weight class. Don’t just think chicken for this. Rabbit dishes will work too. (RV)
CANADA UNITED STATES ROBERT MONDAVI PRIVATE SELECTION CHARDONNAY BOURBON-AGED 2015, CALIFORNIA ($20)
An odd choice for aging Chardonnay in oak! Golden straw colour with a malty, toasty, spicy, caramel nose; full-bodied, dry, creamy on the palate with candy apple and pineapple flavours ending on a note of cloves. Well-balanced and good length. Not your usual Napa Chardonnay. This is a patio sipper for sure. (TA)
RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA TEMÁTICO JOVEN TORRONTÉS 2016 ($13)
Clear pale yellow. Robust nose, smells like a cross between Chardonnay (citrus, melon) and Sauvignon Blanc (pungent gooseberry and lime). Full-bodied 48 @ QUENCH_MAG
CHILE SUE-ANN STAFF FANCY FARM GIRL FRIVOLOUS WHITE 2015, NIAGARA ($15)
This is a 100% Riesling, which is offdry (29g/l). There is brisk acidity and profile of lime, petrol, honey, mineral and grapefruit. It requires something spicy so that the sweetness can tame the fire. Try with Thai coconut curry or sushi with a heavy dose of soy sauce and wasabi. (ES) HENRY OF PELHAM CHARDONNAY 2016, NIAGARA ($15)
A straight-up non-oaked Chardonnay that has seen some sur lie aging. Fresh acidity supports apple, pear, white grapefruit, yeast and hints of anise. Medium length. Drink up. (ES) SUE-ANN STAFF FANCY FARM GIRL FRISSONESQUE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, NIAGARA ($17)
SAS’s first ever Sauvignon blanc is a zesty offering which delivers fresh
CALITERRA TRIBUTO SINGLE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2016, VALLE DE CASABLANCA ($18)
Partially fermented on wild yeasts and aged 8 months in French and American oak, this wine opens with fine citrus, floral and dry savoury notes on the nose. Classic varietal lemon citrus and subtle buttery character with deftly balanced acidity in the mouth shows Burgundian-like restraint, finishing clean and very dry. (SW)
FRANCE MARQUIS DE JOUENNES BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ 2016 ($15)
Shows lightly-scented orchard fruit with a slight vegetal note. Lemon and green apple flavours in the mouth are light and crisp with a relatively short, refreshing finish. (SW)
XAD
J O I N U S F O R C A N A D A’ S L A R G E S T S A K E F E S T I VA L
7 TH A N N U A L
SAKE INSTITUTE TO COME 30 175 +
B R E W E R I E S F R O M J A PA N AND NORTH AMERICA
K A M PA I T O R O N T O. C O M
SAKES, SHOCHUS, LIQUEURS AND BEERS
Food Thursday Pairings May 31 F R O M T O P J A PA N E S E A N D I N T E R N AT I O N A L R E S TA U R A N T S
THE FERMENTING CELLAR, D I S T I L L E RY D I S T R I C T, TORONTO
@ K A M PA I T O R O N T O
BUYING GUIDE HUSH HEATH ESTATE BALFOUR 1503 SPARKLING ROSÉ, KENT, UNITED KINGDOM ($33) SHOWS LIGHT BLUSH IN COLOUR WITH EXCEPTIONALLY FINE PERSISTENT BEAD. SEDUCTIVE RED BERRY AND DELICATE FLORAL SCENTS OPEN THE WAY FOR LUSCIOUS FRESH BERRY FLAVOURS WITH DISCERNABLE RASPBERRY AND BACKGROUND STRAWBERRY, SUPPORTED BY BRIGHT ACIDITY AND DRYING MINERAL. ELEGANTLY FINISHED WITH LINGERING FRUIT AND CREAMY BRIOCHE. TBY SEAN WOOD
ITALY
$20.01 TO $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
CANTINE PAOLINI ZIZZA CHARDONNAY 2016, TERRE SICILIANE IGP ($14)
Citrus with distinct grapefruit character leads off on the nose. Exotic green fruit emerges on the palate with stony mineral and ripe green plum flavour rounding out the dry, food-friendly finish. Try with a zucchini pasta dish doused in a garlic-butter sauce. (SW) ITINERA PRIMA CLASSE GRILLO SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, TERRE SICILIANE IGT ($17)
Aromatic grassy herbal and green fruit on the nose, with overtones of tropical fruit and mineral. Lively green fruit flavours emerging on the palate reveal gooseberry and citrus notes with background tropical fruit, backed by chalky mineral and refreshing acidity. An interesting and uncommon blend offering exotic complexity. Can pair simply with some goat cheese or do it up with a wine-poached sole. (SW) 50 @ QUENCH_MAG
AUSTRIA MEINKLANG ZWEIGELT 2015, BURGENLAND ($30)
Meinklang is one of the darlings of the natural/hipster/sommelier set and this wine lives up to its darling reputation. Highly perfumed black raspberry, downy thorns, underbrush, mushrooms, wild strawberry, and potent white pepper channels down a medium-bodied, streamlined palate. There’s a slim mud of tannins around the sides that houses all this earthy, forested savouriness to a dusky cherry finish. Zweigelt is a friendly, bright grape and here shows all of its earnest charm. (TR)
CANADA BLUE MOUNTAIN CHARDONNAY 2016, OKANAGAN FALLS ($21)
From 27-year-old vines in Okana-
gan Falls, with 30% stainless steel fermented, the balance in new and used French oak, aged for 10 months. Forward aromas of citrus and orchard fruit announce a well-balanced, mildly zesty and stone fruit palate underpinned by measured acidity. Elegant and mouth-filling with well-rounded acidity and good length to finish. (TP) CEDARCREEK PLATINUM RIESLING BLOCK 3 2016, CENTRAL OKANAGAN ($24)
Keenly focused, from a select block high above Okanagan Lake, a bright profile showing freshness and upfront floral, citrus mineral notes announce the intensity of this wine, including ‘second pick’ fruit that benefits from extra hang time. Partial French oak wild ferment delivers extra body and texture to its vibrant citrus and mineral flavours, buoyed by focused acidity and excellent length. An excellent example of superior BC Riesling — and a steal. (TP) PLANTERS RIDGE ELEVATION FRIZZANTE 2016, NOVA SCOTIA ($24)
This striking blend of l’Acadie with Fron-
tenac Blanc and Muscat Ottonel is grown at higher elevation on the North Mountain, bordering Nova Scotia’s Annapolis Valley. Delicate scents of green fruit with a subdued floral note and a trace of green herb evolve to bright green apple flavour with a distinct hit of lime. Delivered with a pleasing light spritz, it finishes just off-dry with appetising mineral grip and lively refreshing acidity. Ideal as an apéritif or anytime sipping. (SW) ROSEWOOD MEAD BLANC 2016, NIAGARA ($25)
This Mead Blanc is a blend of 85% Gewürztraminer and the rest honey, finished at 25 g/l residual sugar and 13% ABV. The nose shows notes of honeysuckle, tropical fruit, lychee and grapefruit. It has a dry impression on the palate with not-too-sweet but ripe fruits, lychee and freshening citrus notes. (RV) INTERSECTION VIOGNIER/MARSANNE 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($25)
Estate grown Viogner with Marsanne (8%), fermented in neutral French oak and lees aged for six months, shows vibrant stonefruit, floral and tropical notes before a clean, luscious and fresh palate of peach and citrus hints with restrained creaminess, lush texture and vanilla wrapped in well-balanced acidity. (TP) BLACK MARKET UNSANCTIONED SEMILLON 2015, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($26)
Made from Osoyoos fruit, hand harvested, whole cluster pressed and stainless steel fermented with time spent in French and American oak and lees stirred. Sports forward tropical and citrus notes before a well-managed creamy, apple-toned and gently vanilla palate driven by good acidity with added weigh from the oak before a lingering, textured close. (TP) ROSEWOOD RENACEAU VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2015, NIAGARA ($30)
This is a gorgeous and elegant Chardonnay with a fresh and lively nose of apple, citrus, minerals and spice. Such beautiful mouth-feel and texture with plenty of finesse to prop up a range of orchard fruits and elegant spice and mineral notes. (RV)
CHILE LOUIS-ANTOINE LUYT PIPEÑO BLANCO 2017, MAULE ($28)
Louis-Antoine Luyt went to Chile at 22 years old and fell in love with the country especially her native grape Pais, which was entirely unappreciated back in 1988. After a return to France, wine studies in Beaune and harvests in Beaujolais (where he became great mates with natural winemaking legend Marcel Lapierre), Luyt returned to Chile to make wine. He sources high altitude, dry farmed vineyards in the south of Chile, where he found ancestral vines up to 200 years old. Pipeño, a term used to denote peasant wines, are his ‘entry level’ tier, smashable and approachable. He vinifies using the traditional Chilean methods dating back to the 16th century: pressing the grapes on a zaranda sieve made of sticks, with free run juice falling into lagares. The wine is kept in pipas, casks made of redwood. Blanco, a blend of Muscat of Alexandria, Torontés, Corinta and Cristalina from Maule and Itata, spends three weeks on the skins and is lightly filtered before bottling. You can feel the grippy/gritty skin contact housing elderflower, Oolong tea, jasmine, crystalline lemon and fine white pepper and star anise spicing on a light palate. Very herbal, earthy and fine, this is a distinct, remarkable wine and amazing value. Fortunately this comes in a 1 litre bottle. (TR)
FRANCE LABOURÉ-ROI BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY AC 2015 ($22)
Green apple and muted floral scents yield to supple, rounded green apple flavour with a trace of almond in the mouth. Offers good weight and balance with a touch of lemon citrus chiming in on the finish. (SW) CAVE VINICOLE DE HUNAWIHR GEWÜRZTRAMINER AC GRAND CRU ROSACKER 2015 ($23)
Clear pale yellow. Fairly intense aromas of elderflower, rose, pineapple, papaya and ripe banana. Full-bodied, some-
what sweet but with adequate offsetting acidity, tastes of apple, peach and melon, with a long finish. Classic noble Gewürz, a wine for sipping respectfully. Will last another few years, but why wait? (RL)* LAMBLIN & FILS CHABLIS AOC PREMIER CRU VAILLON 2015 ($31)
Clear pale yellow. Unoaked like all good Chablis (in my opinion), it sports a medium-intensity nose of lime and lemon with a hint of herbal sage. Surprisingly soft on the palate, it is medium-bodied and tastes like a tart lime or lemon pie, complete with a sense of piecrust pastry. Will last another year or two. Enjoyable with grilled smoked-trout fish cakes and a squeeze of fresh lemon. (RL)*
ITALY CASTELLO DI AMA AL POGGIO 2015, IGT TUSCANY ($29)
Very pale yellow. Fine nose of white fruits and almond. Sharp acidity, but there is enough fat to give the mid-palate a smooth texture. Intense flavour with barely any oak. Lasting finish. Made from Chardonnay with 10% Pinot Grigio. (GBQc)
RECOMMENDED AUSTRIA MEINKLANG GRÜNER VELTLINER 2016, BURGENLAND ($21)
Subtle perfumed elderflower, pear blossoms, delicate green apple on the lighter palate of this biodynamic Grüner. Thin and fine on the palate, with a riff of white pepper spiciness. Etchings of apricot fizz and grapefruit peel linger on the finish. Tight and light, this is best suited to tender spring vegetables or lighter risotto. (TR)
AUSTRALIA DODGY BROS. GRENACHE 2014, MCLAREN VALE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($28)
Salted anise, black cherry, raspberry,
MAY/JUNE 2018 51
BUYING GUIDE downy peppercorn fills this Willunga, McLaren Vale Grenache. Tannins are a bit mossy and the finish is brisk and snappy. After destemming, this was fermented cool and long before pressing to older French oak barriques where it chilled out until a touch of sulphur prior to bottling. Though the grape, and region, has a proclivity to sunripeness, this bigger wine remains fresh, though not so spritely at 14.3%. Chill down, grill up some salmon burgers and you’re set. (TR)
HIDDEN BENCH NUIT BLANCHE ROSOMEL VINEYARD 2015, NIAGARA ($40)
Not many in Niagara are making this serious style of Sauvignon Blanc (and a pinch of Semillon). It has a gorgeous nose of creamy pear, melon, passion fruit, grapefruit, flinty minerality and subtle toasted vanilla and spice. It has a creamy texture on the palate and plenty of vibrancy to lift the ripe tropical fruits, citrus accents and spice notes though a long finish. (RV) HIDDEN BENCH TÊTE DE CUVÉE CHARDONNAY 2014, NIAGARA ($48)
Plush yet refined, thanks to RRV’s cool climate, this Chardonnay doles out tropical fruit, sweet apple, spiced pear, vanilla and cream. On the full end of the spectrum, there is great length and it is ready to drink. (ES)
This is consistently one of the best Chardonnays produced in Ontario, and a perfect example of the Beamsville Bench style. The nose shows notes of poached pear, baked apple pie, lemon accents, spice and wet-stone minerality. It’s nervy on the palate with mouth-watering acidity, nicely integrated orchard fruits, a touch of citrus, elegant oak accents and minerality through the finish. (RV)
OVER $35
RECOMMENDED
UNITED STATES FOLIE À DEUX CHARDONNAY 2015, RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY ($25)
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
CHILE CANADA TWO SISTERS VINEYARDS CHARDONNAY UNOAKED 2016, NIAGARA-ON-THE LAKE ($39)
Not inexpensive but a wine that beautifully expresses the unadorned Chardonnay grape. Pale straw in colour with a bouquet of pear and white blossoms; medium-bodied, spicy, leesy, richly extracted apple and pear flavours with a lovely mouthfeel. (TA) 52 @ QUENCH_MAG
LOUIS-ANTOINE LUYT PIPEÑO BLANCO 2017 ($36/1 L)
Made from old-vine Mission grapes brought by the Spanish, between 75 and 150 years old, including Muscat from Maule plus Torontel, Cristalina and others from Maule and Itata. Unquestionably one of the most unique Chilean whites, with leesy notes up front plus some chalky notes. Distinctive tannins, creamy texture, juicy and layered. (TP)
ROSÉ CHÂTEAU DE ROUQUETTE 2016, AC BORDEAUX, FRANCE ($14)
Made from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Clear medium-deep blushing copper. Medium-intensity nose shouts of strawberries. Light-bodied and immediately appealing, tasting of strawberry candy. Too light for food, drink now as an apéritif. (RL)* VINA CONO SUR ROSÉ NV, BÍO-BÍO, CHILE ($19)
The last time I tasted a Cono Sur BíoBío Rosé it was under the Bicicleta label, and was vintage dated 2014. Light and fizzy, with raspberry, youthful cherry and easy breezy freshness, kissed with sweetness and finishing with a tart, snappy finish. Easy and youthful, for drinking now, well chilled. (TR) PAUL JABOULET AINÉ PARALLÈLE 45 ROSÉ 2015, AOC CÔTES DU RHÔNE, FRANCE ($19)
Pale peach in hue, this Côtes du Rhône rosé is a blend of 20-ish year old Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah sourced from two family estates. Biodynamically farmed, this is bone dry and streaming along fine peppery spice and tight red berry fruit. Fine strawberry, cherry and cinnamon spice, bright with acidity and lined with river stones to a snappy, pink grapefruit finish. This is an impressive value, an ideal rosé to partner with a multitude of foods (and people) and something you could buy by the case. (TR) HONSBERGER ROSÉ 2016, NIAGARA ($22)
100% Cabernet Franc. Very pale pink
XAD WILD THINGS IN FOLDER
BUYING GUIDE in colour looking like a lot of Provençal rosés. Minerally, cherry pit nose; medium-bodied, dry, strawberry and citrus flavours. Fresh and lively on the palate. A great match with salmon. One of the best rosés I’ve tasted from Ontario. Highly recommended. (TA)
13TH STREET WINE CORP GAMAY NOIR 2016, NIAGARA ($20)
A clean and fruit forward Gamay with candied strawberry and raspberry, which meshes with blueberry, black pepper and herbs. Perfect for Napoletana pizza or pasta and meat sauce. (ES)
CHILE
RED
CONCHA Y TORO MARQUES DE CASA CONCHA CARMENÈRE 2015, CACHAPOAL VALLEY ($20)
UNDER $20
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED AUSTRALIA
Delivers classic Carmenère flavours of crème de cassis, plum, bell pepper/mint, spice and violets. Full-bodied, there is a plush texture as well as elevated tannins. Excellent length. Drink over the next five years. (ES)
NUGAN ESTATE ALFREDO SECOND PASS SHIRAZ 2015 ($15)
This is a Ripasso-style wine that’s re-fermented over the skins of the Nugan Alfredo dried grapes to give it complexity and texture. Look for dark cherry/kirsch, brambly raspberry, cassis, cocoa and spice on the nose. It’s quite rich and expressive on the palate with a range of red/dark fruits, earth spice and a smooth finish. (RV)
CANADA HENRY PELHAM FAMILY TREE 2016, ONTARIO ($19)
Blend five red grapes and add 17 months of oak aging and you have created a redolent red with smoke, chocolate, dark cherry, cassis, clove, violets and black olive. Lamb burgers or shish kabob, please! (ES) 54 @ QUENCH_MAG
ITALY FRANCO AMOROSO 2015, DOC BARBERA D’ALBA ($16)
Clear medium-deep garnet. Medium nose of raspberry, blackberry and sweaty leather (in a good way). Medium-bodied, high acidity, good typicity tasting of bright red berries and tart plums. Classic with a traditional tomato-based lasagna. Drink now while the fruit is at its peak. (RL)*
SPAIN MONTECILLO RIOJA RESERVA 2011 ($18)
A highly aromatic and well-aged Rioja that shows mature dark fruits, wood spices, juicy plums and sandalwood. It’s smooth and caressing on the palate
and reveals blackcurrants, plums, cassis, liquorice and spice with lively acidity to keep it fresh through the finish. Good value here. (RV) MONTBLANC 362 MERLOT 2012, DO CONCA DE BARBERÀ ($18)
Clear, deep, browning garnet. Fairly robust nose of dates, figs, mint, tea and green bell pepper. Medium-bodied with black cherry fruit and lots of acidity. Drink yesterday. (RL)*
UNITED STATES BUENA VISTA THE LEGENDARY BADGE PETITE SIRAH 2016 ($18)
Black/purple, as any self-respecting Petite Sirah should be! Full-bodied and intense, there are masses of cassis, blackberries, dark cherry, cocoa, vanilla and liquorice. Tannins are present but rounded and the protracted finish works well for prime rib. (ES)
RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA PASCUAL TOSO ESTATE MALBEC 2016, MENDOZA ($14)
Here’s an affordable Malbec from Argentina that punches above its weight in the flavour department. Dense purple in colour, this easy-drinking Malbec offers a spicy plum nose with vanilla oak notes; it’s medium-bodied with mouth-filling sweet plum and blackberry flavours ending with mellow, ripe tannins. (TA)
AUSTRALIA WONDERWALL SHIRAZ 2015, MARGARET RIVER ($17)
We don’t see many Shiraz from Western Australia in our market so this is really worth trying, especially at the price. Dense purple-ruby in colour, it offers a cedary, spicy nose of white pepper and blackberries. Full-bodied, firmly structured with fruity blackberry and blackcurrant flavours carried on lively acidity, it’s somewhat high in alcohol (14.7%) with a tight tannic finish. Excellent value. (TA)
Medium-bodied with lots of acidity, black cherry fruit and soft tannins. Meant to be drunk young while still charming. (RL)*
FRANCE CHÂTEAU TIMBERLAY BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR 2014 ($17)
At the low end of anything from Bordeaux, from a price point of view, this represents a bargain for what you get. It’s a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon that shows ripe cassis, blackberry, freshcut tobacco, cherry and spice on the nose. It is smooth on the palate with expressive fruit and spice notes. (RV)
berry is raspy on the palate with drying, gritty tannins to a tight finish. This rustic red is best suited to grilled sausages. (TR)
GERMANY DR. LOOSEN VILLA WOLF PINOT NOIR 2014, PFALZ ($15)
Pale ruby/garnet. Kirsch, red flowers and a touch of vanilla oak. Fresh on the attack, light to medium body but flavourful with delicate tannins and a short fruity finish. Drink up. (GBQc)
ITALY
CANADA VINELAND ESTATES CABERNET/ MERLOT 2016, NIAGARA ($15)
Approachable, this red packs the flavour for a solid price. Cassis, raspberry, plum, tobacco and violets are all in play. Medium plus length. A blend of Cabernet Franc 64%, Merlot 21% and Cabernet Sauvignon 15%. Grab a few bottles for BBQ season! (ES) HENRY OF PELHAM CHARDONNAY 2016, NIAGARA ($15)
No oak in this pure, fresh and affordable Chardonnay, but lots to like. The nose shows a range of pear, apple, citrus rind and mineral notes. It’s ripe and expressive on the palate with rich orchard fruits, balancing acidity and a clean, fresh feel through the finish. (RV) INNISKILLIN DISCOVERY SERIES BACO NOIR 2016, ONTARIO ($20)
Inniskillin goes back to their roots for this hybrid red. Deep ruby colour. Blackberry nose with a note of oak; medium-bodied, dry, sour cherry flavour with lively acidity. An all-purpose red at the dinner table. (TA)
CHILE PAULITA RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, CENTRAL VALLEY ($11)
Clear, very deep violet-tinged garnet. Moderate nose of candied blackberry and blackcurrant, and green bell pepper.
BOUCHARD PÈRE ET FILS LES DEUX LOUPS 2014, COTEAUX BOURGUIGNONS AC ($18)
CANTINE PAOLINI NERELLO MASCALESE 2016, TERRE SICILIANE IGP ($14)
Despite a couple of years of bottle age, this one shows youthful freshness with bright cherry fruit, lively acidity and a straightforward clean finish. A good pairing for everyday red meat dishes or firm-ripened cheeses. (SW)
Ripe, stewed black fruit compote shows scents of blackberry and spicy black cherry. Black cherry flavour leads off in the mouth with secondary notes of black plum braced by firm tannins and bright acidity. Full-flavoured, straightforward and fair value for money. (SW)
XAVIER VINS D’EXPERTS 2015, CÔTES DU RHÔNE AC ($19)
FONTANAFREDDA RAIMONDA BARBERA D’ALBA 2014, PIEDMONT ($15)
Xavier Vignon was a leading oenologist in the Southern Rhône, making wine all around France, Oz and NZ and consulting at a number of top estates before settling in Rhône Valley, where he operates this impressive négociant house, consults for 200 Domaines from Rhône to Languedoc and manages one of the area’s biggest laboratories. This is a blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah from numerous sites and terroirs of the Southern Rhône, with vines averaging 40 years. Dried cassis, wild blackberry and thorny pitch are hemmed in with grippy, hard-pressed and unforgiving tannins. Rustically trimmed, this would fare best with roast leg of pork or lamb. (TR) PAUL JABOULET AINÉ 2015 PARALLÈLE 45 ROUGE, AOC CÔTES DU RHÔNE ($19)
This rouge is a blend of 40-year-old Grenache and Syrah vines from family farms, half of which is declassified Villages fruit. Youthful cherry is roughed just the right amount with sanded wood and scented with cedar shavings. Cherry, black rasp-
Ruby/garnet. Notes of tea leaves and dried cherry fill the glass. Half-bodied with nice acidity in the background, it is well-balanced and fresh on the palate. The Barbera grape can bring a lot of acidity to a wine, not the case here. (GBQc) MORELLINO SCANSANO CAPOCCIA 2015, DOC CILIEGIOLO MAREMMA, TUSCANY ($16)
Medium nose of raisins and prunes. Light-bodied with fresh, acidic red berries and a long, bitter-almond finish. Will last another year. (RL)* CASTELLO D’ALBOLA OSO 2014, IGP TUSCANY ($16)
Full ruby, garnet rim. Perfumed nose of red flowers with torrefaction notes (tea, coffee). Full-bodied, the smooth texture of fine tannins has firmness in the mid-palate. Good balance and a nice round finish. Ready to drink. (GBQc)
TOMMASI VALPOLICELLA DOC 2016 ($17)
Generously scented red cherry, spice and MAY/JUNE 2018 55
BUYING GUIDE a whiff of green herb on the nose lead the way for characteristic bitter cherry bite with medium weight, good tannic grip and typical food-friendly acidity. Spicy cherry and plum notes linger on the finish. A solid, good value Valpolicella. (SW)
riage of pitch and black pepper. Grippy and tight, sticky youthful tannins reflect a short six month stint in oak and three months aging before release. (TR)
BARONE DI VALFORTE MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO DOC 2014 ($18)
Dow is best known for its range of fine Ports. Like other producers in the Douro, however, table wines are becoming an important part of the portfolio. This substantial red is a blend of Tinta Barroca, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. Deeply perfumed dark fruit bouquet is scented with fine spice. Generously developed dark and red fruits come wrapped in velvety tannins with still rather brash acidity and a dry, tannic bite. Drinking well now with food, but will definitely reward additional cellaring (3 to 5+ years). (SW)
Crushed boysenberries, mulberries, black plums, medicinal cherry sides this Montepulciano from Abruzzo. Medium-bodied with a swell of acidity and finely gritty tannins to a smoked, bitter cherry finish, welcoming lamb or pork loin. This was vinified in stainless before ten months in French oak. The Sorricchio family has owned the baronial fief of Valforte since the 13th century and the Tenute Barone di Valforte vineyards cover 42 hectares in various communes in the Teramo hills, a prized place for Montepulciano. (TR) RUFFINO IL DUCALE TUSCANY 2015, TUSCANY ($20)
A blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah. Deep ruby colour with an earthy, cherry nose; medium-bodied, dry, cherry flavour with a vanilla oak note and soft tannins. A pleasing spaghetti wine. (TA)
PORTUGAL PEDRA CANCELA DÃO SELEÇÃO DO ENÓLOGO 2015, DOC DÃO ($17)
When handled properly (with care, like this) Dao is a fantastic region for fresh, bright reds and whites made from indigenous varieties, in this case, Tinta Roriz, Alfrocheiro Preto and Touriga Nacional. Herbal raspberries, black cherry, perfumed rock roses, with an undercar56 @ QUENCH_MAG
DOW VALE DO BOMFIN 2014, DOURO DOC ($18)
maceration and fermentation in stainless, this spent 6 months in 1 to 2-yearold oak, 90% of which is French and the remainder American. Dark spicy red fruit, black plums, forest berries fill the compact palate, short and muscular and sulky. Tannins are thick and a bit ropey, making this potent wine a great match for lamb or wild boar. (TR) BODEGAS LUZON SELECCION 12 2013, CRIANZA MURCIA, JUMILIA ($19)
Ruby/garnet. Oak is the main aroma along with floral notes and delicate red fruits. Half-bodied with a nice expressive mid-palate, open flavours and well-balanced. Finish is a tad rough due to firm but finely grained tannins. It can age 2 to 3 years. (GBQc)
UNITED STATES SPAIN MONTBLANC 362 SYRAH/SAMSÓ 2013, DO CONCA DE BARBERA ($16)
Composed of 77% of the Samsó varietal, about which my research could discover nothing. Clear, deep garnet. Medium-intensity nose of blackberries and blueberries with some prune and tobacco aromas. Medium-bodied with plum and cherry fruit, hearty with decent tannins and acidity but not very complex. Drink up. (RL)* MARTA AND MATE PIXIDE TEMPRANILLO 2013, DO RIBERA DEL DUERO ($17)
Dense, thick and meaty, typically Ribera del Duero, this is 25-50 year old bush vine Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) from the clay-limestone soils of Tubilla del Lago, and over 850m altitude. After a week
TOASTED HEAD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, CALIFORNIA ($19)
Medium ruby. Inviting nose of red fruits, oak. Full-bodied yet supple and smooth with a good balance and a lot of fruity flavours. Quite delicious, but there is something technical about its winemaking that may not appeal to the purist. (GBQc) HOPE FAMILY WINERY LIBERTY SCHOOL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, PASO ROBLES AVA, CALIFORNIA ($19)
Sweet, ripe, spiced cinnamon and sarsaparilla fill the fleshy mouth of this Paso Cabernet. There’s ample tobacco herbaceousness that filters through the heaps of ripe, sweeter black fruit, tomato paste, lined with vanilla and scented with potpourri. Tannins are sticky and the finish is short. Disjointed flavours would
be better knit with saucy veal shank or roasted portobello mushroom. (TR) TOM GORE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, CALIFORNIA ($20)
Medium ruby. Fine nose of red berry fruits, just enough oak. Half-bodied, nice fruity taste. Oak is more present on the palate than the nose announced but it is still not too much. A pleasant red that goes down easy on its own or with many dishes. (GBQc)
$20.01 TO $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA NORTON PRIVADA FAMILY BLEND 2014 ($25)
This Argentine blend of Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon has a generous nose of thick blackberry, wild raspberry, earth, tar and beautiful oak spice notes. The dark berries on the palate meld perfectly with the spice notes, bramble and liquorice through a smooth finish. (RV)
aromas of cassis, mulberry and spice notes open on the mid-palate to a vibrant, juicy freshness, driven by balanced acidity. Perfectly textured thanks to time spent in neutral oak for a little extra heft, an impressive expression of purity, power and elegance. (TP) CHABERTON CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVE 2015, OKANAGAN AND SIMILKAMEEN ($23)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (90%) with a touch of Merlot (4%), Syrah (4%) and Cabernet Franc (2%) yields forward notes of intense red berries and spice before a layered and structured, full-bodied palate of raspberry, plum and cherry supported by well-integrated tannins, with excellent balance of fruit and acidity with some tobacco hints through a lengthy close. (TP) CHABERTON RESERVE MERLOT 2014, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($23)
Upfront notes of ripe raspberry and dark plum with oak vanilla precede an earthy palate of mulberry, damson and clove spice wrapped in approachable tannins with a pure, fruit driven close. (TP) CEDARCREEK SYRAH 2015, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($25)
AUSTRALIA VASSE FELIX FILIUS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, MARGARET RIVER, WESTERN AUSTRALIA ($30)
This youthful, compact wine requires a lengthy decant now, or better yet, a few years in the bottle. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon is joined with 13% Malbec and two% Petit Verdot before one year in French oak (13% new). Savoury and brooding, with dusky cherry, blackcurrant, anise, pipe tobacco, dark chocolate and a slick of mint on the full-bodied palate. Tannins are sticky and the end is warm and cedar lined; this structural, tightly knit wine needs time to mature, or a pairing with lamb or beef now. (TR)
From Haynes Creek Vineyard, on a steep, hot, west-facing site sloping down towards Osoyoos Lake. Black and blue fruit up front, followed by vibrant cassis and blackberry and spicy black pepper notes on the palate supported by firm tannins with generous mouthfeel, juicy acidity and good structure through a fruit driven finish. (TP) LIQUIDITY PINOT NOIR 2015, OKANAGAN FALLS ($26)
From 23-year-old vines, upfront notes of red berries, such as cherry and raspberry, and spicy hints announce a medium-bodied palate defined by juicy red fruit, with freshness and keen acidity in a well-orchestrated fruit and acid balance, well-structured with moderate tannins and a touch of spice in the close. (TP)
purple-black in colour with a cedary, spicy, blackcurrant nose and a hint of dried herbs; medium to full-bodied, dry, blackcurrant flavour with savoury, herbal notes and a firm finish. Lovely, caressing mouth-feel. Highly recommended. (TA) HESTER CREEK BLOCK 2 RESERVE MERLOT 2015, OKANAGAN ($29)
Meaty, thick and aromatic nose of currants, cherries, graphite, vanilla and lavish spice notes. It’s a big Merlot with supporting tannins, cassis, currants and red fruit with leather, vanilla and spice accents that all play a role in this highly structured and interesting old-vine red wine. (RV) PARALLEL 50 PINOT NOIR 2016, OKANAGAN CENTRE ($29)
Black cherry, spice and earthy notes on top before a savoury and juicy entry, with forest floor, herbal, clove notes intermingled with black fruit and spice, underpinned by approachable tannins balanced by freshness and good acidity, with lingering mineral and earthiness in the finish. (TP) HESTER CREEK CABERNET FRANC RESERVE 2016, GOLDEN MILE BENCH ($29)
From some of the oldest vinifera planted in the Okanagan Valley (in the early 1970s): upfront, vibrant red fruit, earthy and sage notes precede a juicy, pure fruit-driven and complex layered palate of mulberry, damson and redcurrant with mocha hints, leather and a definite mineral streak, supported by firm but well-integrated tannins through a lingering and persistent finish. (TP) INTERSECTION CABERNET FRANC 2015, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($30)
Sourced from Black Sage Bench, aged 12 months in French and American oak, unfiltered. Lifted, inviting aromas of blackberry, cassis and dried fruits before a medium to full-bodied palate, supported by approachable, well-integrated tannins and balanced acidity. Well structured with black pepper and spice notes in the lengthy finish. (TP)
CANADA BLUE MOUNTAIN GAMAY NOIR 2016, OKANAGAN FALLS ($23)
From two clones of 27-year-old vines,
MONTES OUTER LIMITS WILD SLOPES RED 2016, COLCHAGUA VALLEY ($28)
50% Carignan, 30% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre from granitic soil. Dense
SEVEN STONES SPEAKING ROCK CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($30)
Upfront notes of vibrant cassis and
MAY/JUNE 2018 57
BUYING GUIDE spice before a plush palate of enticing aromas of ripe blackcurrant and tobacco introduce this harmonious wine. Round flavours of cacao, liquorice, coffee and plum are followed by an exotic spicy finish that lingers in a bold and elegant manner. (TP) TOWNSHIP 7 PINOT NOIR 2016, OKANAGAN ($31)
This has a bold nose of savoury red fruits, liquorice, spice and cassis with anise and earth accents. It’s certainly a bolder style Pinot with concentrated red fruits, and earthy-spicy notes, but the muscular style is not out of proportion at all. (RV) STAG’S HOLLOW RENAISSANCE MERLOT 2015, OKANAGAN FALLS ($35)
Barrel fermented, estate grown Merlot with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon yields forward notes of red and black fruit and wild berry notes before a bright, intense palate of raspberry, black cherry and cassis. Leather, mocha and some herbal notes wrapped in well-integrated tannins with a lingering juiciness in the close. (TP) HENRY OF PELHAM SPECK FAMILY RESERVE PINOT NOIR 2016, SHORT HILLS BENCH ($35)
The warm 2016 vintage has given this wine fantastic concentration of dark cherries, cassis, wild raspberry and currants with earthy/brambly notes, violets and elegant oak spices on the nose. It’s all about the integrated red and dark fruits, even at this early stage, that are juicy yet poised, polished and meld perfectly with the oak spices. It is spring, so a BBQ opening party may be in order. (RV) 58 @ QUENCH_MAG
CHILE MATETIC CORRALILLO WINEMAKER’S BLEND 2014, SAN ANTONIO VALLEY ($22)
A cool climate, coastal wine with an interesting blend of 50% Syrah with 25% each of Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Dense purple-black in colour with a herbal blackberry nose with oak spice; full-bodied and dry, it’s juicy, firmly structured with a delightful floral lift on the finish. (TA) EMILIANA COYAM 2013 ($30)
This signature wine from Emiliana is a multi-grape blend with mostly Syrah and Carménère. What a brilliant nose of blackberries, plums, blueberries, eucalyptus, graphite and spice. It is loaded with an array of fruits on the palate, but also freshness and spice that shows wonderful integration and balance between power and finesse. A delightful wine. (RV) VALDIVIESO ÉCLAT 2010, MAULE VALLEY ($30)
An unusual and exciting blend of Carignan with 34% Mourvèdre. Dense purple in colour with a cedary, spicy plum bouquet, lifted with vanilla oak notes. Full-bodied, dry, savoury, plum flavour; firmly structured, blackcurrant and plum flavours, with a firm, tannic finish. (TA)
FRANCE
MAGELLAN PEZENAS 2013, COTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC ($21)
A Syrah and Grenache blend. Deep ruby in colour with a robust nose of blackberries, pepper, dried herbs and cedary notes. Medium to full-bodied; dry, savoury blackcurrant with lively acidity. (TA) CHÂTEAU DU HUREAU TUFFE SAUMUR-CHAMPIGNY AC 2014, LOIRE VALLEY ($27)
The Vatan family has been making wine in the Loire for more than 300 years, with 5th generation Philippe and his daughter Agathe Vatan currently in charge. This Cabernet Franc was sourced from 15 parcels scattered around Saumur and Dampierre in the Loire, and is the gateway CF for the château. Though the parcels range in vine age, they all are planted on tuffeau soils (la Tuffe, locally) of varying depth. The farming follows organic and biodynamic practices (en route to certification for bio), and the wine spent up to two years in tank (underground in the chalk cellars) prior to bottling. Highly fragrant and perfumed with wild raspberry, young strawberry, redcurrant, dark plum and lined with a sapid earthy herbaceousness on the light-bodied palate. Acidity is shining and tannins are gossamer gritty. A lovely charming red for solo sipping or with wild mushroom dishes. (TR)
CHÂTEAU PÉGAU CUVÉE MACLURA 2014, CÔTES DU RHÔNE ($21)
Ruby/garnet. Fine notes of red fruits with a floral touch and wise oak. Medium-bodied, elegant on the palate with smooth tannins and a good balance. Long, tight finish. Ready to drink. (GBQc)
ITALY TENUTA LE COLONNE 2015, BOLGHERI ($27)
A blend of 70% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.
LE TROU DU DIABLE JOHN EDWARD ALDRED ENLIGHTENED BEER, SHAWINIGAN, QUEBEC ($6/600 ML) PALE YELLOW WITH LIGHT BUT ABUNDANT FOAM. FRESH HOPS, CITRUS SCENTS FILL THE GLASS. VERY LIGHT WITH GOOD BITTERNESS AND REFRESHING ACIDITY. TASTED BLIND, IT’S LIKE DRINKING CARBONATED GRAPEFRUIT JUICE. TBY GILLES BOIS
Shows the warmth of the 2015 vintage via the rich dark fruit: crème de cassis, blackberry, plum and Chambord liqueur. Add some dried herbs, cocoa, vanilla and spice and you have a full-bodied, smooth offering with an extended finale. (ES) PRÀ MORANDINA VALPOLICELLA 2016 ($29)
Morello cherry, wild raspberry on this charming, light to medium-bodied Valpo, with pretty florals, a tuggy tension around the sides and a juicy, buoyant acidity on the palate. The finish is light bitter cherry and savoury sapidity. Lovely confidence and finesse here from Prà, one of the region’s most progressive and interesting producers (and this is their “entry-level” red). This wine welcomes a chill and wild mushroom dish now, though is easily cellar-worthy short term. (TR)
story of the some of the most interesting vineyards in the Cape, focusing on Stellenbosch. This is low-intervention Chenin and Semillon, with a splash of Muscat of Alexandria, whole-bunch pressed, fermented and aged in older oak, and with 10 months’ time on the lees (the Muscat was done in stainless) before all was assembled, cold stabilised and bottled. The wood is evident, bolstering and batting around spicy citrus, lemongrass, white peach and orange blossom, with Chenin’s scratchy herbal wooliness lining the mouth amply. Dried apricot sticks to the medium/full palate, and wood spice lingers on the finish. The bracketing wood requires food to meet; herbal stuffed poultry on the fire would work beautifully. (TR)
SPAIN SOUTH AFRICA B VINTNERS HAARLEM TO HOPE 2015, WO STELLENBOSCH ($30)
B Vintners is a collab of cousins Gavin Slabbert and Bruwer Raats, both respected winemakers with their own labels. With B, they aim to tell the
FINCA EL ENCINAL CRIANZA 2016, DO RIBERA DEL DUERO ($26)
This wine is so typical of Ribera del Duero: warm, earthy black fruits, leather, crushed florals, broken stones, dark cocoa, baking spice. Though you feel the structure of the wood, it doesn’t
overwhelm the fruit of this youthful wine. Estate Tempranillo from Pesquera and Sotillo aged 6 months in 50/50 American/French oak. Energy plus structure plus drinkability equals a winning combination. (TR) ROLLAND GALARRETA TEMPRANILLO/MERLOT 2014, DO RIBERA DEL DUERO ($26)
Roasted meats, brooding, rich dark fruits, crushed violets, caramelized root veg fill the savoury palate of this luring red. It’s impossible to miss that Michel Rolland is involved (it’s right there in the name after all), but if this were poured blind, you could still recognize his handiwork. Rolland has partnered with Javier Galarreta on this Ribera del Duero Tempranillo/Merlot blend. The grapes are 35 years old, grown on skinny soils over limestone bedrock. The ample French oak (10 months spent) is here well-integrated into the dense black fruits, with espresso and sticky pipe tobacco tannins framing, lifted by swells of acidity (this is from vineyards at 900m altitude). Sweet baking spices and vanilla linger on the finish. This is drinking well now, but will certainly rest a few years in your cellar. (TR) MAY/JUNE 2018 59
BUYING GUIDE UNITED STATES VINA ROBLES PETITE SIRAH 2013, PASO ROBLES ($21)
California’s Paso Robles region is halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco. It’s a warm region that produces big red wines like this one. Dense purple in colour, this wine has a cedary-sandalwood nose of sun-warmed blackberries. It’s full-bodied, dry, with well-extracted black fruit flavours carried on lively acidity. (TA) SECRET CELLARS PINOT NOIR 2014, SANTA LUCIA HIGHLANDS ($24)
A mature Pinot ready for drinking. Deep ruby in colour with a cedary, spicy cherry nose. Medium-bodied, dry, elegant, lacy, finely balanced with cherry and beetroot flavours. Highly recommended. (TA) JOEL GOTT 815 CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, CALIFORNIA ($25)
A multi-appellation California Cab with lots of upfront blackberry, plum, dark cherry, vanilla, chocolate and spice. Tannins are polished, so it is ready to drink alongside a medium rare rib-eye. (ES)
RECOMMENDED CANADA HESTER CREEK CHARACTER RED 2016, GOLDEN MILE BENCH ($21)
This workhorse blend of Syrah, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Merlot delivers upfront red berries and vanilla notes before a medium-bodied palate with plummy notes and spice hints wrapped in easy tannins with some peppery notes to close. (TP) 60 @ QUENCH_MAG
HENRY OF PELHAM PINOT NOIR ESTATE 2016, SHORT HILLS BENCH ($25)
This Pinot possesses a pale ruby colour and aromas of cherry, plum, red flowers and hints of cocoa. Medium body and acidity with fine-grained tannins. Serve alongside duck breast with a redcurrant sauce. (ES)
earthy plum, blueberry, thorns and leather, strung across assertive, sinewy tannins. Don’t attempt without meat or heady bean stew. (TR)
UNITED STATES BUENA VISTA WINERY THE COUNT FOUNDER’S RED 2014, SONOMA ($27)
FRANCE CHÂTEAU ROLAND LA GARDE PRESTIGE 2012, BLAYE CÔTES DE BORDEAUX ($25)
Full ruby. Red berries and a fair amount of oak dominate the elegant nose. Nice roundness on the palate in spite of a tannic core that brings structure, leading to a finish lifted by acidity with notes of liquorice. 80% Merlot with 15% Cab Sauv and 5% Malbec. Ready to drink. (GBQc)
This blend of unidentified red varietals pays homage to “field blends,” the signature wine style of Sonoma from the mid-1800s right up until the 1970s. Plum, blackberry, mocha and undercurrent of weedy tobacco/herbs meet up with 14.5% alcohol. Medium plus length. (ES)
OVER $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA
SPAIN VIÑA MAYOR 2008, TORO DO ($26)
100% Tinta de Toro, this substantial wine spent 11 months in French oak barriques. It is still rather closed on the nose, though with enough to reveal dark fruit and spicy intensity. Concentrated dark plum flavour kicks in on the palate with brooding, firm tannic structure. Serve it with robust braised meats, game and aged cheese. (SW) ELIAS MORA TORO 2014, DO TORO ($27)
Earthy, dusky, dusty black cherry and thorns weave throughout this sinewy Tempranillo from Toro. The wildness of this assuredly rustic red is on full display, from twiney, pressed dark raspberry,
HAYWIRE FREE FORM RED 2015, SUMMERLAND ($40)
100% Pinot Noir from Waters & Banks’ soon to be certified organic vineyard, on a steep limestone and granite slope high above Lake Okanagan. Minimal intervention, fermented using native yeast in an 800-litre clay amphora, aged undisturbed on skins for eight months, then pressed, aged for two months more and bottled unfiltered without any additives. Pure fruit expression, with intense, vibrant raspberry, cherry and dark berry notes before a fruit-driven, plush palate defined by freshness and acidity with spicy and mocha hints and a touch of schist, before a lingering, fruity close. (TP)
STAG’S HOLLOW RENAISSANCE MERITAGE 2015, OKANAGAN FALLS ($43)
Mainly estate grown Merlot with Cabernet Sauvignon (13%) and Cabernet France (7%) lures with wild bramble, dark cherry, herb and oak notes before a medium to full-bodied palate defined by juicy acidity and pure, fresh fruit flavours of blackberry and redcurrent, supported by firm but well-integrated tannins. A hint of minerality through a lingering, spicy close. (TP) CLOSSON CHASE CHURCHSIDE PINOT NOIR 2015, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($45)
Very Burgundian in style, medium-ruby in colour. Cherry and raspberry nose with a note of oak spice; light and elegant on the palate with cherry and raspberry flavours. Pricey but spoil yourself. (TA) CEDARCREEK PLATINUM MERLOT 2014, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($50)
From selected rows at Desert Ridge Vineyard in Osoyoos. Lifted aromas of vibrant plum and cherry follow through on the voluptuous, well-structured palate, wrapped in juicy, well-balanced acidity. Raspberry, damson and spice with vanilla and mocha notes, and a hint of mineral as the wine opens in the glass before a lengthy finish. (TP)
FRANCE CHÂTEAU ROLAND LA GARDE GRAND VIN 2012, BLAYE CÔTES DE BORDEAUX ($38)
Ruby purplish. Lots of sweet red fruits on the new-world style nose. Silky tannins, rich and supple, it happily fills the mouth. Made of Malbec at 60% plus 30% Merlot and 10% Cab Sauv. The high proportion of Malbec explains the different style. Drink or hold. (GBQc) CHÂTEAU BELLEGRAVE DU POUJEAU 2008 ($39)
A well-aged claret drinking well now but cellar-worthy for another decade. Dense ruby in colour with a blackcurrant and cigar-box nose. Medium-bodied, dry, lean, sinewy and firmly structured with lively acidity and a firm tannic finish. (TA)
CHATEAU HORTEVIE 2011, AOC SAINTJULIEN ($39)
Made by the same folks as Ducru-Beaucaillou. Not from a celebrated vintage year. Clear, very deep garnet. Medium nose, mostly woody with raisin, fig and plum aromas. Strong tannins on the palate, tasting of ripe raspberries with good acidity. The fruit is about to start falling away, drink up. (RL)* CHÂTEAU LA NERTHE CHÂTEAUNEUFDU-PAPE 2004, RHÔNE ($53)
Mature ruby colour exhibiting a nose of dried rose petals, dried herbs, plum and oak notes; full-bodied, dry, rich and full on the palate with savoury black fruit flavours and ripe tannins. At its peak now. (TA) MACHARD DE GRAMONT VIEILLES VIGNES NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 2015, BURGUNDY ($60)
A very impressive Burgundy. Ruby-coloured with a spicy, raspberry nose, well-integrated oak and a light floral uplift; medium-bodied, dry, elegant and beautifully balanced red berry flavours. A seamless wine with a firm finish. (TA) CLOS DU CAILLOU LES SAFRES CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2015, RHÔNE ($63)
The ruby-plum colour signals great concentration of flavour: the nose is cedary, spicy blackberry with notes of rust; full-bodied, dry, richly extracted earthy, blackberry flavours fill the palate with ripe tannins. Hold five years. (TA)
ITALY MICHELE SATTA PIASTRAIA 2013, TUSCANY ($39)
A blend of equal parts Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Syrah. Deep ruby-purple in colour with a cedary, vanilla, redcurrant and blackcurrant nose; medium-bodied, dry, well-structured blackcurrant and blackberry flavours with a forest floor note. (TA) CASTELLO DI AMA SAN LORENZO CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE 2013, TUSCANY ($46)
Ruby purplish. Shy, deep nose with
obvious finesse but little expression at this stage. Compact and firm on the palate, the fruity flavour is pure, the oak already well-integrated. Built for the next 20 years. (GBQc) SARTORI AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CORTE BRÀ 2010, VENETO ($50)
Concentrated, this Amarone offers textbook aromas of raisins, currants, figs, dried herbs, potpourri, chocolate and liquorice. Full-bodied with 15.5% alcohol backstopping the entire package. Drink until 2022. (ES) QUINTARELLI ROSSO CA’ DEL MERLO 2009, VENETO ($112)
This is a blend of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Croatina and Sangiovese. No Merlot. Dense ruby in colour with a mature rim, the cedary nose has elements of black cherry and truffles. The wine is full-bodied, dry, muscular in structure with an earthy flavour of dried cherries. (TA) CASTELLO DI AMA VIGNETO LA CASUCCIA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2013, TUSCANY ($226)
Dark red. Powerful nose with complex fruity notes, luxury oak. Flavourful attack, ripe and juicy fruity taste. Dense, balanced mid-palate with tender fleshy tannins, simply delicious and irresistible. Finish is equally compact and lasting. Drink or hold for even more complexity. (GBQc) CASTELLO DI AMA VIGNA L’APPARITA 2013, IGT TUSCANY ($237)
100% Merlot. Deep ruby/purplish. Cherry, plum, spicy notes from the oak. Full and tight on the palate, saturated with fruity flavours, the finely grained tannins have no hardness. Finish is dry, long and compact. (GBQc)
NEW ZEALAND SACRED HILL 2014 DEERSTALKERS SYRAH, HAWKES BAY ($66)
Serious, structural and potent, with youthful intensity just now starting to yield into velvety, sueded tannins. MAY/JUNE 2018 61
BUYING GUIDE Deerstalkers is entirely Gimblett Gravels fruit, only produced in the very best years. Gravelly, with humus, earth, tar, camp smoke texturing inky dark black plum, liquorice, dusky violets, ripe black cherry, thick blackberry on a potent, refined palate, this finishes with ample fresh cracked pepper and smoked beef. Open top fermented with extended post-ferment maceration before being basket pressed into French oak barrel (30% new) for 18 months, this is a well-constructed big red, intended to impress and hold a good few years in the cellar. (TR)
PORTUGAL SOITO DÃO RESERVA 2014, DOC DÃO ($46)
Deep and potent, with blackcurrant, dusky violets, cassis filling the compact, potent frame. Tar, tobacco, leather coat the base, downy and fleshy, framed with a fiercely thick wall of tannins. Intense through the sticky, lingering finish. This is Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Alfrocheiro from Terras de Azurara on the granitic soils of the Dao. After a stainless ferment, this spent ten months in French oak. Tight and unyielding now in youth, this serious, big wine benefits from decanting and pairing with boar or lamb — and more so from cellaring. (TR)
UNITED STATES NAPA CELLARS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, NAPA VALLEY ($34.95)
Textbook Napa, featuring blackberry, 62 @ QUENCH_MAG
cassis, plum and mint wrapped around spice and vanilla. The palate is smooth with a juicy edge, which is the hallmark of the 2014 vintage. Drink over the next three years. (ES)
RECOMMENDED
BEFORE & AFTER DINNER ALVEAR CREAM SHERRY, MONTILLAMORILES, SPAIN ($17)
AUSTRALIA WEST CAPE HOWE BOOK ENDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, MT. BARKER, WESTERN AUSTRALIA ($38)
Black cherry, sarsaparilla, boysenberry blackcurrant jam, lined with a thick layer of mint in this juicy, full-bodied Western Australia Cabernet. Tannins are structural and dense, shellacked with anise, but lifted with a shine of tart rhubarb acidity. Sourced from several vineyards in Mt. Barker, each lot was fermented and aged for 18 months in new and used French oak. This bad boy needs a steak. (TR)
Deep amber in colour with a sweet, nutty nose of dried figs. Full-bodied, off-dry, rich and spicy, with fig and nut flavours. Great intensity here with a long satisfying finish. Great value and highly recommended. (TA) FORT BERENS LATE HARVEST RIESLING 2016, LILLOOET, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($18/375 ML)
Intense tropical and lemon lime aromas precede a zesty, luscious, honeyed and rounded palate of citrus and apple notes, tempered by clean acidity. Freshness and good length in the lingering finish. (TP) SANDEMAN FOUNDERS RESERVE RUBY PORTO, DOURO VALLEY, PORTUGAL ($20)
CHILE UNDURRAGA VIGNO 2013, DO MAULE ($37)
Mainly Carignan with Cinsault, all dry farmed and sustainably grown, yields vibrant, complex red and dark berries, earthy and smoky notes before a raspberry and black cherry palate. Opens in the glass to superb black pepper and spice notes in the persistent, lingering finish. You can go for the classic braised beef cheeks (maybe not so classic) or a simple fresh tomato sauce with slightly bruised basil. (TP)
This sweet, soft Ruby is a blend of numerous lots of Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela, Tinta Barroca and Tinto Cão, aged in cask for 5 years. Dense and ripe, with sweet cherry jam, sugarplums, dark maple syrup and gingersnap spicing. Tannins are sticky and the finish is hot. This young port is best partnered with dark-chocolate clad fruits or rich, boozy fruitcake. (TR) LAKEVIEW CELLARS VIDAL ICEWINE 2016, NIAGARA ($22/200 ML)
One of the best value Icewines on the market. Not overly sweet with apple juice,
peach, fresh flowers, honey and citrus working in tandem. Fine length. (ES)
off-dry. It finishes long, with hints of almond and cocoa. (TS)
BODEGAS HIDALGO NV LA GITANA, DO MANZANILLA SANLUCAR DE BARRAMEDA, SPAIN ($25)
NIHON SAKARI NAMA GENSHU HONJOZO, JAPAN ($7/200 ML)
La Gitana, with the charming gypsy girl (gitana) on the label, is the most popular Manzanilla on the Spanish market and is the top selling wine in Seville. Its dry delicacy, sea salt freshness and lingering tanginess make it a natural pair for almonds, olives, sardines and cured meats (hola, Jamón). The light body, vibrant acidity and salinity also make it a beautiful pairing for sushi. An ideal apéritif. (TR) FIELDING ESTATE RIESLING ICEWINE 2016, NIAGARA ($36/200 ML)
Peach, apricot, toffee, apple juice, lemon peel and thyme honey leap out of the glass and onto the palate. Fresh acidity provides lift and it finishes on a mineral note. (ES) COYOTE’S RUN VIDAL ICEWINE 2016, NIAGARA ($50/375 ML)
Intense and rich; peach, orange marmalade, mango, pineapple, ginger and honey are all found in this soft Icewine. Excellent length. Pan sear some foie gras and deglaze with Icewine. (ES) VALE MEÃO VINTAGE PORT 2014, DOURO VALLEY, PORTUGAL ($67)
Dense purple-black in colour with an intense, spicy, mulberry and vanilla oak bouquet; full-bodied and concentrated flavors of sweet blackcurrant and blackberry carried on lively acidity to a firm tannic finish. (TA)
SAKE KIKUSUI FUNAGUCHI NAMA GENSHU, JAPAN ($6/200 ML)
Japan’s most popular Nama Genshu was first brewed by Kikusui over 40 years ago. Fruity/earthy aromas are enhanced by traces of wet stone, pear and peach pit. Lively, full, fruity and
Hints of pumpkin, melon, almond and a trace of funky mushroom on the nose. On the palate, it’s fresh and viscous, with suggestions of toasted nuts and ripe melon with a characteristic touch of earthiness. Clean and crisp, with a hint of heat on the finish. (TS) NIHON SAKARI NAMA GENSHU JUNMAI GINJO, JAPAN ($7/200 ML)
Bright, fresh, floral aromas with traces of anise and candied almond. Zesty, with citrus/honeydew flavours and a mild hit of spice as it trails off. (TS) NIHON SAKARI NAMA GENSHU DAIGINJO, JAPAN ($7/200 ML)
The aromas are delicately fruity with suggestions of mineral, fennel and marzipan. Full and silky in the mouth, with flavours of vanilla, stone fruit and steamed rice. A touch hot on the way out. (TS) NARUTOTAI JUNMAI NAMACHOZO, JAPAN ($14/300 ML)
This sake sports complex aromatics leaning toward marzipan, cocoa, malted rice and mild earthy/mushroom undertones. Fairly light in terms of mouthfeel, it is nonetheless very flavourful with lively, tropical fruit nuances and end notes suggesting mocha and pear. (TS) NARUTOTAI GINJO NAMACHOZO, JAPAN ($15/300 ML)
Crisp, green apple aromas along with some steamed/malted rice, sweet pear and white flower blossom overtones that lead to a dry, savoury, slightly herbal palate. Mildly spicy nougat/marzipan end notes appear as the flavours trail off. (TS) G JOY JUNMAI GINJO GENSHU, OREGON, UNITED STATES ($18/300 ML)
Let’s start with the lingo. This is a Junmai (no added alcohol), Ginjo (top 4 premium sake grades) Genshu (undiluted with water) sake. From Oregon, no less, with Calrose sake rice grown in the Sacramento Valley of California. Being undiluted, this is at the upper scales
for sake alcohol content at 18%. And you can feel it: a punchy, bold, smooth and full-bodied sake with lush melons, perfumed Anjou, Asian pear crispness and a sweet cereal note on the weighted, glycerol palate. There’s a riff of grip on the sides and an aptness for oily fish and ramen. (TR)
BEER & CIDER 2 CROWS BREWING CO. WILD NORTHEAST IPA, HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA ($5/473 ML)
Aromas of guava, strawberry and cotton candy swirl to the nose of this Halifax-made India Pale Ale. The sip starts with strawberry and cotton candy flavours before quickly making way for bolder, bitter, dank, resinous pine-like hops. The full-bodied, bitter brew is perfect for matching with an herbaceous South-Asian style noodle bowl or a slab of red meat on the barbecue. (CL) BRASSEUR DE MONTRÉAL DOCKER SESSION IPA, QUEBEC ($6/625 ML)
Light brown, generous foam. Fresh hops and citrus, hints of caramel. Very light and tasty, it goes down easy and finishes on a dry note with just enough bitterness to be refreshing. (GBQc) LE TROU DU DIABLE MELLIFERA, SHAWINIGAN, QUEBEC ($6/600 ML)
Hazy light brown colour with persistent foam. Hints of light caramel over delicate hops, slightly malted and cereal notes. An explosion of CO2 in the mouth with a dry, acid taste of medium body. Lasting flavourful finish. The brewery was recently acquired by Molson/Coors; let’s hope the quality will not suffer. (GBQc) BRASSEURS RJ COUP DE GRISOU, MONTRÉAL, QUEBEC ($6)
Hazy golden yellow. Light nose of hops, spices, honey. Fresh flavour and taste with medium body turning lighter in the finish with a bitter, acidic note. (GBQc) MAY/JUNE 2018 63
BUYING GUIDE SEA LEVEL BREWING ROJO RED MOJO ALE, PORT WILLIAMS, NOVA SCOTIA ($3/355 ML)
Red ales are a microbrew staple in the Atlantic provinces and this Annapolis Valley example is one of the region’s finest. Made with six different malts, the nose boasts aromas of whole grain toast, quinoa, red liquorice and whispers of blueberry jam. The sip starts out with sweet grain but the toasted character dries things out with a soft bitterness balancing out the finish. Made for pairing with food, this red ale would be a standout with Chinese takeout and pulled or roasted pork. (CL) WORLEY’S BEATNIK BILLY, SOMERSET, UNITED KINGDOM ($5/500 ML)
Small-batch English ciders are rare in Canada, so it’s a delight to drink this Somerset sparkler. Made with juice pressed from British heritage cider apples that cidermaker Neil Worley sources from orchards around Somerset and then presses himself, this semi-sweet amber-hued cider has rich dessert apple flavours, a lightly sweet caramel finish, light acidity to balance and a low barnyard-like funk that makes it quintessentially British. A great cider for those who like the sweeter side of the beverage but crave a bit more complexity. Available from Ontario’s Communal Merchants via private order. (CL) MARSTON’S PEDIGREE AMBER ALE ($17/4-PACK)
This medium amber ale opens with fruity and malty aromas, leading into agreeably balanced mild fruitiness and malt character with a lick of caramel and a hint of smoky dryness. (SW) 64 @ QUENCH_MAG
JENNINGS BROTHERS CASTLE BREWERY COCKER HOOP, CUMBRIA, UNITED KINGDOM ($17/4-PACK)
BIG SPRUCE BREWERY KITCHEN PARTY PALE ALE ($18/4-PACK)
Shows a light floral scent with aromas of nutty malt and a whiff of yeast, evolving to citrus and rich malt flavours with a touch of hoppy bitterness on the finish. (SW)
Chinook/Cascade and Mandarina Bavaria hops go into this pine resiny and astringently malty brew. Pine resin and green herbal flavours are balanced with rich, lightly sweet fruitiness, finishing with a heavily hopped bitter finish. (SW)
GODSPEED BREWERY OCHAME GREEN TEA IPA, ONTARIO ($4/355 ML)
TATAMAGOUCHE BREWING CO. SUNRISE TRAIL INDIA SESSION ALE ($5/473 ML)
When head brewer Luc Bim Lafontaine left Dieu du Ciel! he negotiated to take a few of his beloved beer names with him. Ochame (roughly translating to mischievousness) was one of them. And now, at his new Toronto brewpub, his retooled recipe is a fan favourite. The subtle nose has layers of herbs — sage, mint and green tea leaves. On the tongue, it’s a wash of biscuit and wildflower honey with a medium herbal bitterness hitting mid-palate and building to the finish. The aftertaste is where you really notice the green tea, which Lafontaine harvests himself annually from his “adopted” tea plantation in Japan. Despite its 6.9% ABV, this refreshing brew drinks more like a pale ale than an IPA. It’s different from any IPA you’ve ever had and it’s a refreshing and innovative counterpoint to the hop bombs pouring out of breweries right now. (CL) BIG SPRUCE BREWERY TIM’S DIRTY AMERICAN INDIA PALE ALE ($5/473 ML)
Chinook, Simcoe and Citra provide the hops in this hazy, unfiltered IPA. Opening with green herbal and pine scents with fruity malt aromas. Concentrated dried fruit, malt and pronounced hoppy bitterness carry through a very long finish. (SW)
This is a golden ale loaded with intense herbal hoppy character. Light-bodied, it shows fruity malt on mid-palate, rapidly shifting to very dry bitter hoppiness that lingers in the mouth. (SW) UNCLE LEO’S ALTBIER ($4/473 ML)
Modelled on the traditional, top-fermented Altbier of Dusseldorf, this one shows dark reddish brown in the glass, with a thick creamy head, toasty malt aroma. Orange citrus and roasted malt flavours. A characterful, well-balanced brew, finishing with an agreeable touch of burnt toast bitterness. (SW) WAYFARERS ALE SOCIETY RUBY ALE IRISH RED ($4/473)
True to its name, this ale shows dark ruby red in colour, with a persistent creamy head and nutty, lightly toasted aromas. Sweet dried fruit with a splash of coffee-chocolate emerge on the palate, finishing with balancing bitter hoppiness. Has a lot more personality than traditional Irish red ales. (SW) SALTBOX BREWING CO. NUN ON THE RUN CREAM ALE, MAHONE BAY, NOVA SCOTIA ($5/473 ML)
Made using flaked wheat and local honey as well as malt and hops, this bright
blond ale has a fragrant light malt aroma with a distinct honeyed scent. Mild though flavourful citrus, nutty and honeyed character in the mouth, culminates with a gentle touch of bitterness. Likeable and easy to drink. (SW) 2 CROWS BREWING CO PECCADILLO OAT PILSNER, HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA ($4/473 ML)
Golden colour with a light, frothy head, this one shows aromatic, piquant herbal hoppy scents with nutty malt aroma. Rounded with medium weight, showing spicy, nutty and citrus flavours, finishing dry and astringently bitter. (SW) BRETON BREWING COMPANY SEVEN YEARS PALE ALE, SYDNEY, NOVA SCOTIA ($5/473 ML)
Light amber and cloudy with a persistent frothy head, shows emphatic herbal and citrus aromatics with a whiff of orange. Moderate fruity and nutty dry flavours emerge in the mouth and, notwithstanding the strong hop aromatics, it finishes with a relatively easy-going touch of bitterness. (SW)
LITTLE BEASTS BREWING CO. LA SAISON D’ÉTÉ, ONTARIO ($6/500 ML)
This bright golden saison from Whitby Ontario’s second craft brewery, Little Beasts, is perfect for sipping in the sunshine. Aromas of bubble gum, lemon, passion fruit and white peppercorn mingle on the nose leading to a sip that puts spicy peppercorn front and centre with a light, building bitterness and a whisper of fresh grain on the finish. Dry-hopped with Mosaic hops, this light-bodied saison can be sipped alongside green salad or stand on its own next to spicy barbecue chicken or ribs. (CL) BRASSEURS DU MONDE L’INTERDITE 60 PALE ALE, SAINT-HYACINTHE, QUEBEC ($2/341 ML)
Hazy dark yellow, lasting thick foam. The 60 minutes of continuous hopping shows on the nose, accompanied by light, aromatic citrus notes and hints of spices. Thirst quenching, moderately bitter (IBU of 50), it is refreshing and easy to drink. A good way to start the warm season. (GBQc)
COAST MOUNTAIN BREWERY FIELD GUIDE ALE, WHISTLER, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($11)
This is a medium-bodied amber ale showing malty and nutty aromas moving to richer plum cake flavours with orange citrus notes that lead into a nutty, agreeably bitter finish. (SW) HACKER-PSCHORR BREWERY UNFILTERED LAGER KELLERBIER, MUNICH, GERMANY ($5/500 ML)
Hazy dark blonde in the glass, with yeasty, citrus, spicy and malty caramel aromas. Quite fruity sweet on the palate with rounded nutty malt flavours, it finishes with the merest touch of bitterness. (SW) GREAT LAKES BREWERY APOCALYPSE LATER, TORONTO, ONTARIO ($5/473 ML)
This Imperial Black IPA pours deep brown with a huge milkshake-like frothy tan head that laces down the glass with each sip. Bright, resinous fruity aromatics lead to a lightly sweet sip of tropical fruit before a prickly pinesap bitterness that doesn’t pull any punches. (CL)
HILL FARMSTEAD BREWERY ARTHUR, GREENSBORO, VERMONT, UNITED STATES ($10)
FLYING MONKEYS 12 MINUTES TO DESTINY, BARRIE, ONTARIO ($3/473 ML)
Billed as a “Northeast Style Hoppy Lager,” it shows light amber in colour with herbal hoppy scents, together with citrus and slightly yeasty and malty aromas. Nicely balanced fruity malt and hoppy bitterness on the palate with citrus and tropical fruit overtones, finishing with lingering hoppy bitterness. (SW)
One of the flagship brews from rural superstar brewery, Vermont’s Hill Farmstead, Arthur is a now a modern American classic. Notes of white peppercorn, Meyer lemon and mango swirl on a medium-light body that balances sweet grain against a crisp, lactic tang. A fine champagne-like carbonation indicates bottle-conditioning. (CL)
This ruby tinged lager is seasoned with fresh raspberries, rosehips and hibiscus flowers. The aroma is dominated by tart berries with a touch of dried floral notes and, on the sip, crackery malt and noble hops with a hint of sweetness. 12 Minutes to Destiny is an easy-drinking, fruity brew with a firm lager backbone. Pair it with fresh strawberries and whipped cream for an easy summertime dessert. (TL)
RAVENSKILL ORCHARDS GABBIE’S PREMIUM CIDER, GABRIOLA, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($14)
HILL FARMSTEAD BREWERY DOROTHY, GREENSBORO, VERMONT, UNITED STATES ($10)
MCAUSLAN‘S ST AMBROISE SPECIAL RESERVE BOURBON WOOD AGED RUSSIAN IMPERIAL STOUT, QUEBEC ($9)
SPINDRIFT BREWING CO. RIPTIDE INDIA PALE LAGER, DARTMOUTH, NOVA SCOTIA ($4/473 ML)
This rich golden-hued cider crafted on Gabriola Island in British Columbia changes every year based on the orchard’s apple crop. The 2017 version has aromas of young cantaloupe, Queen Anne’s Lace and wet stone. This off-dry sparkling cider has a medium body and firm tannins with flavours of Granny Smith apple skins and mint. Made with old-world cider apples, it’s both fresh and complex. Try the 2018 version at the cidery. (CL)
This dry-hopped Belgian pale ale is another flagship from Hill Farmstead. Aromas of pineapple, resin and passion fruit derive from American and New Zealand hops, with a subtle barnyard note from the brewery’s house yeast, a mixed culture that includes Brettanomyces. The beer’s medium-low carbonation gives it a creamy mouthfeel and a pronounced bitter finish dries out the mouth, leaving you wanting more and more... (CL)
The carbonation was quite low, common for aged beers. The aromas were beautiful: tar, smoke, fruit, chocolate and black, roasty malt. The body was extra full, and the palate was smooth, finishing long, with a pleasant but not overpowering bitterness that sat nicely alongside tar and black licorice flavours. There was some sweetness but it was not cloying. Based on this sample, it could have aged for some time longer. This is beer fit for a Czar. (CP) MAY/JUNE 2018 65
AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER
COLD AS ICE
Wine trivia question: What is the most rigorously regulated and monitored of all Canadian wines?
The answer: ICEWINE.
As a region, Ontario is the world’s largest producer of Icewine. Most of the companies are hesitant about revealing numbers, but I imagine the biggest producer in the province is the Peller group — Andres, Trius, Thirty Bench and Wayne Gretzky Winery. Arterra Wines Canada (which includes Jackson-Triggs and Inniskillin) sell approximately 20,000 nine-litre cases annually. The largest single-family estate on the planet producing Icewine is Pillitteri. According to Jamie Slingerland of Pillitteri, in 2016, the winery harvested 25 percent of Ontario’s Icewine crop with 200,000 litres. The last vintage (2017), they harvested over 300,000 litres. In order to be labelled properly and carry the VQA label on the bottle, there are rules to which both the grower and the winemaker have to scrupulously adhere to. Wineries must register with the VQA office the acreage of vines they have allocated for Icewine production by mid-November. Written reports for VQA monitors must show the temperature at the time of picking (ideally between -10°C and -13°C to ensure the berries are frozen solid when they enter the press). The tonnage harvested must also be noted. 66 @ QUENCH_MAG
In ordered to be designated as liquid gold, the Brix reading of the frozen grapes (a measurement of the concentrated sucrose in the marble-hard berries) must be 35 or higher to produce a minimum of 125 grams per litre of residual sugar in the finished wine. (Registered readings I saw for batches arriving at the Falk farm processing barn in Niagara-on-the-Lake in January ranged from 38 Brix to 42 Brix. A wine produced in the region by Peller Estates in 2014 reached an amazing 50 Brix.) Dates and times of picking and pressing must be logged and the amount of juice extraction logged. The Icewine harvest this year, according to Peller’s Senior Winemaker, Craig McDonald, was the earliest on record. “We brought in our Cabernet Franc on December 14th and we had Riesling and Vidal in before the Christmas break,” he told me as we toured the Falk barn with Thirty Bench winemaker, Emma Garner. And what a sight it was: 23 basket presses lined up, each filled with one tonne of frozen berries that looked more like dun-coloured olives than grapes you would want to eat. In order to drive out the water and produce the trickle of syrupy juice, the basket presses exert a pressure on the frozen mass of 250 bars. This translates as
a force of over 5,000 lbs per square inch! To give you some idea of the magnitude of this force, the pressure in the average bus tire is 8 bars. Emma Garner presses her award-winning Riesling table wines at 0.2 bars. So you can imagine what the resulting pomace from a tonne of grapes must look like — a huge brown hockey puck about a foot high. This hard-pressed residue doesn’t go to waste either: it can either be fed to pigs, distilled into grappa or the oils from the seeds can be extracted for skin care products or for use in the kitchen. The pressing cycle takes between three and five hours. During the Icewine season, the presses are worked 24 hours around the clock. And it’s a messy business: the Australians call their sweet wines “stickies” for a very good reason. The floor in the Falk barn is the antithesis of a skating rink. You literally stick to the floor with each step. Trev Falk, the man in charge of the Icewine barn’s operations, says it takes his crew three weeks of washing down the space to return the barn to its other use: as a venue for weddings and dinners. So think of all the forethought and work the next time you pour a glass of that golden elixir. It will make it taste all the sweeter. × ILLUSTRATION: FRANCESCO GALLÉ, WWW.FRANCESCOGALLE.COM
XAD I4C IN FOLDER
Niagara-on-the-Lake
XAD
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