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BY S . P E L L E G R I N O
Meet Chef Grant van Gameren, the culinary pioneer and driving force behind Toronto’s Bar Isabel, named as Canada’s Best New Restaurant in 2014. We asked him to reveal his sources for inspiration and ingredients, and tell us what’s on his radar for the future.
SAN PELLIGRINO SAME AS P 2 OCTOBER 2014 CAPTURE THE ESSENCE O F W H AT ’S H A P P E N I N G IN THE CANADIAN CULINARY SCENE.
Orphans cooking with orphans. In Toronto, the people opening restaurants now are in their late 20s, early 30s who haven’t been slugging it out in a brigade-style kitchen for years like the founding fathers. There’s a generation of us rebellious teenagers just opening up restaurants, hiring our friends and taking risks. Hopefully, these young chefs grow into the leaders of Canada’s modern culinary movement. HOW DO CULINARY T R E N D S I M PA C T YO U R MENU?
I’m too busy to concern myself with trends. Evolution is made, not speculated. If there’s anything I’m into, it’s about finding something new. Maybe not something new to the world, but new to me. That’s my food trend. W H AT I S I N S P I R I N G YO U RIGHT NOW?
Gooseneck barnacles-pre-historiclooking crustacean creatures, super tasty. Only in season for about a month. When I sourced some, I was
so excited that I posted a photo on Instagram. 48 hours later there was an article about how these are the “next new thing.” ASIDE FROM THE F O O D , W H AT M A K E S A G R E AT R E S TA U R A N T EXPERIENCE?
Everything you put on the table matters. The details can dramatically elevate the dining experience—like a good quality napkin, artisanal bread or a bottle of S.Pellegrino. Even the bottle itself is beautiful; it’s like a bottle of wine. Water is the first thing served at the table and the last thing that remains. So it only makes sense that the kind of water you serve is considered. If you think about it, filtered water or tap water—it’s only as good as its source. GIVE US A HINT ABOUT W H AT ’S O N T H E H O R I Z O N F O R YO U ?
I’m excited about a new venture I’m working on inspired by the Pintxo bars of San Sebastian. It’s a completely different way of eating, very social and a new style for Toronto. It’s food-at-your-ownpace that takes traditional tapas to a whole new level.
GRANT VA N GA M E R E N
“E V E RY T H I N G YO U P U T O N T H AT TA B L E M AT T E R S . T H E D E TA I L S C A N D R A M A T I C A L LY E L E VA T E T H E D I N I N G EXPERIENCE, LIKE A GOOD QUALITY NAPKIN, ARTISANAL BREAD OR A BOT TLE OF S.PELLEGRINO.”
For more inspiration visit
T E XT BY
F I N E D I N I N G LOV E R S . C O M
PH OTO BY
Angie Mosier Brock Elbank
QUENCH MAGAZINE ... NOVEMBER 2014 THE ART OF IT ALL × 22 SOMETIMES THE BOTTLE ITSELF IS THE PRIZE. BY ROSEMARY MANTINI ON A LIGHTER NOTE × 24 EVEN CHILEAN AND ARGENTINIAN WINES CAN BE SOFT AND SUBTLE. BY MICHAEL PINKUS ABC × 26 CHARDONNAY CAN BE THE COOLEST KID ON THE BLOCK WHEN GROWN IN THE RIGHT CONDITIONS. BY RICK VANSICKLE LIVIN’ LA VIDA BAJAN × 29 EASE INTO THE SLOW PACE OF BARBADOS. BY TOD STEWART
26
MAV WINE AND SPIRITS AWARDS 2014 × 32 WE HIGHLIGHT THE BEST ASSEMBLAGES AND OTHER TIPPLES WE’VE SEEN THIS YEAR. FAB FIVE × 36 ONE WRITER’S TOP 5 NAPA DESTINATIONS. BY EVAN SAVIOLIDIS ADAPTING IS THE SINCEREST FORM OF FLATTERY × 40 FRESH TWISTS ON TIMELESS DRINKS HAVE BECOME THE NORM AT CONTEMPORARY COCKTAIL BARS. BY SARAH PARNIAK RUM RUN × 42 CALL IT WHAT YOU WILL, RUM IS EXPERIENCING SOMETHING OF A RESURGENCE IN NORTH AMERICA. BY TOD STEWART MEAT AND POTATOES × 46 WHAT DOES IT REALLY MEAN? BY DUNCAN HOLMES
42 DEPARTMENTS ... CATCHING THE TRENDS × 52 I’VE BEEN TRYING TO WORK MY WAY OUT OF A CULINARY RUT AND REACH FOR TRENDY INGREDIENTS I DON’T OFTEN USE. BY NANCY JOHNSON
CAKE AND CRITTERS × 64 IS THERE STILL A PLACE FOR ALL THOSE GENERIC, MASS-PRODUCED WINES? NO! BY GURVINDER BHATIA
NOTED ... × 54 EXPERTLY-TASTED BUYING GUIDE FOR WINES, BEERS, CIDERS AND SPIRITS FROM AROUND THE WORLD.
CHARDONNAY SHOW AND TELL × 66 I4C AND THE REBIRTH OF COOL. BY TONY ASPLER
NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 3
@quench_mag ... Follow, like and connect with us online. DID YOU KNOW that all
the back issues of Tidings (and Quench) from 2011 to the present are available for free online. Just type back. quench.me in your browser window to be quenched. (Sorry for the horrible pun, but we can’t help it.)
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It’s hard to get on the screw cap bandwagon. I will never buy a bottle of wine without a cork. They might be good for cheap plonk, but imagine being at a fancy restaurant and the waiter comes over and unscrews a bottle of wine… one that is $50. Not in my glass. Sydney Artino, email I can definitely get behind Nancy Johnson’s statement that “all cooks have their favourite tools”. I have a set of spatulas that are sturdy, reliable and necessary for almost everything I make. I would panic if I lost them. Carolyn Evans, email
join us in the conversation
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IT’S ALL SUBJECTIVE. OR AT LEAST RELATIVELY SUBJECTIVE. I COULD BE TALKING ABOUT A NUMBER OF THINGS BUT IN THIS INSTANCE I’M SPEAKING OF SCORING WINES. IN A PERFECT WORLD THERE WOULD BE NO SCORES. They are great for marketing reps — terrible for wine lovers. They skew us into a direction we should necessarily be going.
4 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
Duncan Holmes’s article ‘Canned’ reminded me of making jam with my grandmamma. I used to sit at the counter and watch, licking the spoon. Canning food isn’t antiquated, it’s a passion. Duncan really drove that home. Joelle Lovellette, Moncton
CORRECTION We forgot to credit the photographers of the Maverick Chefs, 2014 edition: Matthew Carmichael - MIV Photography; Murray MacDonald - Alex Fradkin; and Louis Trudeau - Guy Couture.
If I love a wine, I will tell everyone about it. And as they listen to me recount the texture and structure of the liquid, they take note of the name and price. Without thought of their preferences or dislikes. When confronted by a full shelf of said wine, they remember what I said and then proceed to buy. “It comes highly recommended by a reputable source,” is the mantra heard down the aisles. Scores unjustly bias you and that is something I would never like to be accused of. So when looking through the pages of this magazine, read past the first two digits. You’ll find a colourful world of distinct flavours and flowery prose is painting a picture for you. It’s up to you to decide whether that picture is a Picasso or four dogs playing poker. I guess even that is subjective. Come tell us your opinion on the 100 point scores at www.quench.me.
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SAM ADAMS SAME AS P17 OCT 2014
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CMYK Burgundy 0-100-10-59 CMYK Gold 0-20-95-46
OPIM IN FOLDER
CONTRIBUTORS ... Food editor, Nancy Johnson, logged 30 years in the music industry before segueing into writing about food, wine and life. She never turns down a glass of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Or any other wine for that matter.
Sean Wood is a regular contributor to Quench. He travels extensively to report on developments in wine regions throughout the world. A founding member of the Association of Sommeliers of the Atlantic Provinces, he frequently serves as a wine judge for various competitions. Visit his new site: www.woodonwine.com.
Our West-Coast go-to food guy-writer, Duncan Holmes has been a meat and potatoes person for most of his life. Beef, pork, lamb, rabbit — yes, lots of them in his native Australia — were centre-of-the-plate protein, oomphed by whatever was picked, pulled or dug from the seasonal kitchen garden. Like the rest of the world, Dunc’s diet and creative kitchen bent now mean that the whole world of food is his oyster, and healthy variety is his spice.
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NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 7
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BAY OF QUINTE SAME AS PAGE 12 OCTOBER 2014
À LA CARTE Q SCHOOL × 10 WARMING UP WITH SOME MEXICAN HOT CHOCOLATE. GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON × 13 THE PERFECT SANDWICH. UMAMI BY JOANNE WILL × 15 COOKING UP HOPE IN VANCOUVER’S DOWNTOWN EASTSIDE. NEXT STOP × 16 QUENCH PICKS THE TOP BRUNCH STOPS. FEED BY TOM DE LARZAC × 18 CHANGING YOUR EVERYDAY DISHES. LAZY MIXOLOGIST BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO × 19 THE 15 MINUTES OF PEAR LIQUEUR FAME. PREP BY MICHAEL PINKUS × 20 PINOT GRIS FINDS NEW MEANING IN NEW ZEALAND. BON VIVANT BY PETER ROCKWELL × 21 HOW COME WINES MADE WITH THE SAME GRAPE CAN TASTE SO DIFFERENT FROM ONE ANOTHER?
NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 9
Q SCHOOL ...
Winter is coming! OR SO THEY SAY ON GAME OF THRONES.
Arm yourself against the cold wraiths of snow with a thick, luxurious and pleasantly spicy Mexican Hot Chocolate. Stock your pantry with all of the ingredients so that if white walkers come calling at your door, and by this I mean snow storms, you’ll be ready. The main ingredients are fairly standard, with variations on the type rather than the specifics:
×× Milk (evaporated, whole, skim or 2%) ×× Ground cinnamon ×× Vanilla extract ×× Cayenne pepper ×× Chocolate (your choice here, though a Mexican chocolate like Ibarra wouldn’t be a mistake)
Other ingredients you can add, depending on your tastes: ×× Nutmeg ×× Cocoa powder ×× Brown or white sugar (if you’re looking for something sweet) ×× Chili or chipotle powder (if you want to make it extra spicy) ×× Cornstarch (as a thickener) Here’s a quick recipe to get you started in your winter prep.
MEXICAN HOT CHOCOLATE
2 cups milk 125 g chocolate, chopped 1/2 tsp vanilla extract 1/8 tsp ground cinnamon Small pinch cayenne pepper 1 tsp sugar, brown or white (if you want something sweeter) 1/4 tsp chipotle or chili powder (for something spicier) Mix all ingredients in a saucepan. Heat over medium heat until simmering, stirring frequently. Remove from heat, pour into bowl and whisk or blend to make light and foamy. (Classic Mexican chocolate was whisked with a special wooden tool called a “molinillo.”) Top with marshmallows, whipped cream, chocolate syrup or even chocolate flakes for a rich and spicy chocolate experience. × 10 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
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A perfect pairing for grilled meats.
RED BADGE TO COME Merlot-Cabernet with very ripe fruit, intense pleasing flavours, expressive taste. Versatile, friendly, a great social wine.
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“Buttery-delicious, yet lower in saturated fat. We can bearly believe it.” – The Salmon Experts
Becel® Buttery Taste provides the delicious richness of butter but with 80% less saturated fat, to make a sauce that makes the salmon.
BECEL SAME AS P11 OCT 2014
Becel® Maple Mustard Salmon 4 ¼ cup
¼ cup 4 tsp 1 tsp
¼ lb Salmon fillets Becel® Buttery Taste margarine, melted Pure maple syrup Dijon mustard Low sodium soy sauce
Place salmon in an 8" x 8" baking dish. Mix sauce ingredients together, pour over salmon, then bake at 425°F for about 12 minutes or until salmon flakes with a fork. Serve hot with extra sauce spooned on top.
Trade-mark owned or used under license by Unilever Canada, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3R2.
Get more recipes i at B Becel.ca l
GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON ...
THE SANDWICH It was a gambling habit that led John Montagu, 4th Earl of Sandwich, to order his meat between two slices of bread. According to written accounts from the time, the 18th-century aristocrat hoped to eat at the gaming table and didn’t want to sully his playing cards with grease. But centuries before Montagu threw the dice, people from many cultures were enjoying handheld — um — sandwiches of meat and bread.
CHICKEN PANINI WITH BRIE AND APPLE-PEAR COMPOTE
The Apple-Pear Compote is delicious as a side dish with roast chicken, turkey or pork. If desired, substitute shredded rotisserie chicken for the chicken breast fillets. If you have an electric panini press, use it. If not, follow the directions below using a ridged cast-iron pan and cast-iron panini press.
2 1 1/2 4 4
chicken breast fillets tbsp olive oil cup chicken broth or water Grainy mustard ciabatta rolls, sliced open and outer crusts buttered Apple-Pear Compote (recipe follows) slices brie cheese, rind removed
1. Cut chicken breasts in half horizontally. Pound until 1/2 inch thick. Season with salt and pepper. 2. In a large skillet, sauté chicken breasts in hot oil until browned on both sides. Add chicken broth or water. Bring to a boil, turn heat to low and cover. Cook for about 10 minutes or until chicken is cooked through. 3. Spray a cast-iron skillet with cooking spray. Place on medium-high heat. 4. Spread mustard on the inside of each buttered roll. Arrange chicken on roll. Spoon Apple-Pear Compote over chicken (use sparingly and pass the rest at the table). 5. Top with brie and top half of roll. Using a spatula, press down on top of each roll to flatten slightly. Place rolls, two at a time, in hot cast-iron skillet. 6. When bottom of rolls are toasted with grill marks, flip and place hot sandwich press on top. Cook until cheese melts and tops of rolls are grill-marked.
APPLE-PEAR COMPOTE 1 2 2 2 1 1/4
tbsp unsalted butter Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and diced Anjou pears, peeled, cored and diced tbsp light brown sugar tsp fresh lemon juice tsp cinnamon Pinch nutmeg
In a medium saucepan, melt butter. Add remaining ingredients and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fruit is soft and most of the juices have evaporated, about 20 to 30 minutes. × NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 13
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UMAMI BY JOANNE WILL ...
the Incubator WHEN HE GRADUATED FROM CULINARY COLLEGE IN 1991, CHEF PHILLIP LIE’S UNCLE DELIVERED ON A PROMISE TO TAKE HIM TO VISIT CANADA. They spent five
months in Toronto while also travelling to places such as Banff, Lake Louise and Chicago. “It was sort of an eating trip — a dining trip,” says Lie. “We ate at truck stops, diners, you name it; and everywhere else along the way. I was 19 and I’d never been anywhere before. I look back on that experience and see it was very inspiring, and something that taught me there was life beyond the longest pier in world,” says Lie. When he returned to his UK hometown of Southend-on-Sea (home to the world’s longest pier), Lie was ready for change. He moved to London and spent 13 years working his way through kitchens and restaurants belonging to culinary superstars, including Marco Pierre White and Raymond Blanc. In 2007, Lie returned to Canada — stepping directly off work for a cruise ship line and onto the shores of Vancouver. He worked at one of the city’s leading Relais & Châteaux hotels until earlier this year, when he was hired to run the Vancouver Community College (VCC) culinary training program in the new Incubator Kitchen. The Incubator Kitchen, on the main floor of the iconic Save On Meats location in Vancouver’s notorious Downtown Eastside, is a multi-partner initiative developed with an aim to support culinary education and food business development, and provide free or low-cost access to commercial kitchen space for community organizations. VCC culinary students based in the Incubator Kitchen are working their way through the inaugural seven-month program. There’s culinary theory class, followed by hands-on experience in the busy Save On Meats diner next door. “The soups and salad dressings are made fresh, butchery is done here; sausages and even the pastries are made by the students. It’s a program that benefits both students and the community, in a venue that provides real-life experience. They get
to work on the line and feel the heat of the kitchen. Sometimes there are a few burns, a few cuts — but ultimately something is made,” laughs Lie, whose generous nature and humour are clearly a benefit to the program. He adds that the program helps student develop their critical thinking and problem-solving abilities as well as kitchen skills. “Today we’re doing something quite interesting. We’ve got 90 pounds of salmon coming in from a First Nations group and the students are going to take it apart, fillet, bag and portion it, and then we’re going to send it back to the group.” Each day the students also prepare meals that are delivered to subsidized housing projects in the area, for members of the community who are at greatest risk of homelessness. How does Lie feel about working in this troubled neighbourhood? “It’s like having a reality check every day, when you regularly compare what you have and how fragile that is and how quickly it can all go wrong. I love the rusticity of this place. The view and reality of Hastings Street crumbling keeps everything in perspective; you realize your life or situation ain’t that bad.” × NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 15
NEXT STOP ...
yum Brunch — not many things draw us like this perennial tradition. Restaurants across the nation are serving up innovative dishes to satisfy late-morning foodies. From banana-bread French toast with Gianduja chocolate ganache to duck-and-onion-jam eggs Benedict, brunch is more than ever a sophisticated affair made all the more enticing by global influences and tasteful presentation. ORIGIN
Chef Claudio Aprile’s upscale downtown Toronto eatery serves up experimental tapas-style dishes peppered with international flavours noon and night, and brunch is no exception. With all the makings of a traditional late-morning meal, the MasterChef Canada judge’s brunch menu boasts a taste of the unexpected. Case in point: French toast with duck confit, blueberries, hoisin, sesame-seed brittle and sour cream, or a steak flank with sunny side up eggs, chimichurri sauce and a side of fries. The décor, complete with plush black leather seating, an exposed brick wall and an elegant open kitchen, only adds to the unique dining experience.
L’AVENUE
Whether it’s eggs Benedict served over Black Angus beef, pancakes topped with a hearty serving of cheddar and bacon or French toast glazed with Nutella and caramelized rum bananas, the dishes on offer at L’Avenue in Montreal defy convention. The décor, complete with motorcycles hanging overhead, comic strip–like menus (in French only) and glow-in-the-dark art lining the restroom walls, is also out of this world. Late-night Plateau revellers can keep the party going around a hearty breakfast at this psychedelic spot, and late risers savour a generous brunch amid a festive hubbub. But be warned: a wait of up to half an hour and more is not uncommon at this popular spot. 16 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
OEB (OVER EASY BREAKFAST) BREAKFAST CO.
With 36 seats spread out over a communal table in the centre of the space and banquette seating along the walls, brunch at this small Calgary diner is like a family affair. And judging by the lineup Chef Mauro Martina’s restaurant draws on a regular basis, everyone wants a place at the family table. Traditional brunch fare (breakfast burritos, eggs Benedict and waffles) alongside unique variations — think porchetta eggs Benny with roast pork, porcini mushroom, white truffle ragu and brown-butter Hollandaise — make up the eclectic menu. Martina uses locally sourced and seasonal ingredients, including gluten-free meat and free-run omega-3 eggs from his own flock, sweetening the deal. ×
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E A R T H Q U A K E S, F I R E S, E X I L E, P R O H I B I T I O N
SORRY FATE BACARDI YOU PICKED ON THE WRONG
IN FOLDER
FAMILY FATE HAS TRIED ITS WORST OVER THE LAST 152 YEARS. BUT THE BACARDÍS JUST ROLLED WITH THE PUNCHES AND CAME BACK STRONGER.
LIVE PASSIONATELY. DRINK RESPONSIBLY. © 2014. BACARDI , BACARDI, THE BAT DEVICE, OAKHEART AND ITS TRADE DRESSES ARE TRADEMARKS OF BACARDI & COMPANY LIMITED. RUM - 40% ALC. BY VOL. RUM WITH NATURAL FLAVOURS & SPICED - 35% ALC BY VOL.
FEED BY TOM DE LARZAC ...
Not everyday I WILL BE THE FIRST TO ADMIT THAT I’M NOT THE MOST CREATIVE PERSON WHEN IT COMES TO DEVELOPING EVERYDAY MEALS. In my personal life, I often make
familiar dishes on a frequent basis. I don’t make the same thing, but I will often eat grilled chicken or roasted pork, with a variation of side dishes. There are a few ways to change the flavour of the food you are cooking. Seasoning is probably the most common, and the simplest. Sage-rubbed chicken will taste different than a chili-andlime-flavoured piece of the same poultry. There are several other options too: cooking techniques (baking, grilling or braising), cooking time (low and slow, or hot and fast) and sauces. I have started using more homemade sauces in the kitchen, but there is one that I enjoy the most, and it’s versatile and simple. While some sauces can take days (some restaurants have sous chefs devoted to only making sauces), some can be quick and pick up the flavours that are already in a pan. Then there are those that take a few ingredients thrown into a pot to make a difference. Chutney is just that. It’s nothing more than a few ingredients cooked together till they are soft and well blended. The first time I tried making any sort of chutney, I tried a spiced pineapple and mango recipe. While it was tasty and I felt that I could eat it, I quickly realized the hot pepper I had used was well over my heat threshold. I proudly suffered through my BBQ chicken, but decided to give the rest of the sauce away to friends who had a much higher tolerance than me. I prefer to use fruit that is in season, but any fleshy fruit will do. If it’s a sweet fruit (like mango), I will either add a little additional acidity (lemon or vinegar) or add less sugar. I recommend using fruit that you like; if you don’t like it fresh, chances are you won’t like it much better cooked. Go ahead and try different combinations, and don’t be afraid to add different seasonings just to have a slight difference in one batch vs another. And consider spice tolerance before jumping into any recipe.
18 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
APRICOT CHUTNEY
2 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, diced 1 1/4 lbs apricots, diced 1 cup raisins 1 cup brown sugar 1 tsp chili powder 1 tsp whole mustard 1 tsp salt 1 tsp turmeric 1 tsp cinnamon 1 tsp cumin 1. Heat mid-sized sauce pot over medium heat. Add olive oil. Add onion and sauté for 2 minutes. 2. Add apricots and soften for 2 minutes. 3. Add all other ingredients; stir to combine, reduce heat to low and sauté for 1 hour. 4. Serve with any meats to add additional moisture and flavour. MATCH: I say it’s time to open up one of those local, craft IPAs you’ve been saving. ×
LAZY MIXOLOGIST BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO ...
15 Minutes “There are only 10 minutes in the life of a pear when it is perfect to eat,” said Ralph Waldo Emerson. That’s pretty hard-core; even Andy Warhol was more generous with his time. That said, the Emerson quote speaks to an essential truth about the pear; namely, that we are all-too-often disappointed with either the hard, tasteless crunch of the unripe pear or the mealy mouthfeel of one that’s past its prime. But when it’s good, it’s pretty great. Thankfully, the fruit fly-esque lifespan of a pear can be extended through the miracle of distillation, which for years has enabled people to transform inglorious pears into rakia, eau-de-vie, brandy and the most splashy varietal of all: Poire William. That last one is the most recognizable, largely because it’s generally distinguished by having an entire Bartlett pear inside the bottle. The technique for this lovely gimmick (the pear is grown inside the bottle on the tree) was developed in France, a place responsible for a lot of pear spirit. But it doesn’t have a monopoly. Pear brandies are common all over Europe, America and more recently Canada, where Okanagan Spirits (BC), Dillon’s Distillers (Ontario) and Ironworks (Nova Scotia) all produce pear eaux-de-vies. Good news for locavores, sure, but what exactly are we supposed to do with it? While many drink it straight, Jesse Beamish, bartender at the speakeasy basement bar underneath Ottawa’s Union Local 613, says it’s high time we started using it in cocktails. “We should approach Poire William the same way we do something like Calvados,” says Beamish. “It’s a cutting-edge exotic ingredient that has a lot of versatility and potential.” Beamish is a big fan of relatively obscure ingredients at his bar, since he loves introducing novel flavours to his patrons. He particularly likes the “under-the-radar” Poire William because he’s found it can be used as a rinse, to add a degree of complexity to a drink, or simply to spice up a Champagne cocktail. “The subtle notes, dry body and aromatic characteristics of a pear eau-de-vie lends itself perfectly to being extended by cava,” he says. Looks as if Poire’s 15 minutes are finally about to start.
× Visit quench.me/search-mixed/ for more drink recipes
VON TRAPP LORD #3
If you managed to find Beamish’s bar (hidden behind a basement bookshelf), he might make you this.
1 oz Poire William 3/4 oz Koval Millet (or any young whiskey with not too much oak) 1/2 oz Aqua Madre Grillo 2010 (Beamish says an iced cider or even Icewine will do here) 1/4 oz Eggenberger beer schnapps (any beer schnapps can be substituted) 1/4 oz gomme syrup (visit quench.me for a DIY gomme syrup recipe)
Stir all ingredients over ice and strain into chilled coupe glass. Garnish with a lemon zest. ×
NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 19
PREP BY MICHAEL PINKUS ...
Another winner
FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO CAN’T SEEM TO GET THE NOTION that New Zealand makes wines other than Sauvignon
Blanc, allow me to show you exhibit A: Pinot Noir. Yes, the Kiwis are making quite a name for themselves with the grape of Burgundy — “stealing” yet another Northern France variety. It would seem that these days Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc are all you see at any New Zealand tasting you attend or liquor store you visit. And who could blame you for thinking that. At the most recent New Zealand Wine Fair, this past May, of the 106 wines that were on display 71 (or almost 67 percent) were either Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Noir. So here is the real question: Is New Zealand a two grape road show? While it’s true you have to really hunt for something other than these two grapes from the land below the Land Down Under, you don’t have to downgrade your good taste when you do. New Zealand is a cool climate country and has done exceptionally well with Northern French varieties, and now they seem to have moved even more north and plucked a grape from the Alsace region as their “next big thing.” Sure, you’ve probably seen some Syrah and Cab-based blends, but the real next star is the lowly, yet incredibly popular, Pinot Gris. It was once said to me that, “the characteristics of Pinot Gris are that it has no characteristics whatsoever.” While that can be a true statement for many producers and countries that have hopped onto the Pinot Gris bandwagon, the islands that make up New Zealand seem to have something special to offer us with this grape (as they did with Sauvignon Blanc) to help raise up its reputation from bland and blah to something truly special.
ASTROLABE 2013 PROVINCE PINOT GRIS ($22) This one starts off like a Sauvignon Blanc, which will make you recheck the label, but it ends with plenty of seemingly sweet white fruit à la apple and peach.
LAWSON’S DRY HILLS 2013 PINT GRIS ($20) Here’s a Pinot Gris with a twist (or two): 23% of the wine sees the inside of a barrel, while all of the wine gets the wild ferment treatment; the result is a weightier Pinot Gris full of orange zest, baked apple and delightful spice.
MARISCO VINEYARDS 2013 THE KINGS THORN PINOT GRIS ($19.95) Marisco makes lovely Pinot Noirs and Sauvignon Blancs, but this Gris really livens up their portfolio with lovely aromatics leading to a palate that’s just this side of tropical and spicy.
MIDDLE EARTH 2013 PINOT GRIS ($17.95) Surprisingly not owned by Peter Jackson but with a name that definitely capitalizes on New Zealand’s biggest export to date. The wine shows a pretty roundness and suppleness in the form of honey, peach pit and apple core
TE PA FAMILY VINEYARDS 2013 PINOT GRIS ($29.95) It’s the blend of the tropical with the typical that makes this one so intriguing: pineapple mixes it up with peach then throws in a little lemon pith for good measure. ×
20 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
BON VIVANT BY PETER ROCKWELL ...
How come wines made with the same grape can taste so different from one another?
ILLUSTRATION: MATT DALEY/SHINYPLIERS.COM
Actually, grapes do have, at their core, certain personality traits that travel with them no matter where they wind up calling home. Some, like Cabernet Sauvignon, are better at retaining the majority of their basic flavour profiles than others. Of course, the rain in Spain falls differently on its plain than it does in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley. To expect wines made with the same grape grown in different locations around the world (or even in the same region) to taste identical would be akin to thinking that both Pharrell Williams and Jack White could warble a carbon-copy interpretation of “Stairway to Heaven.” While geography plays a huge part in defining a wine (and that includes everything from the soil to weather conditions), how human ingenuity affects the final product is key to what you get in your glass. How winemakers decide to age their wines, what other grapes they may blend into the juice that hits the bottle and when they decide to harvest the fruit are just a few influential endeavours that will massage the personality of any grape. Thing is, that’s the way it should be. If every Chardonnay tasted exactly like every other Chardonnay, the wine world would be a pretty boring place to drink.
What’s the difference between a vertical and horizontal tasting?
Three decades into my professional drinking career, I’ve been to my fair share of wine tastings. While I always arrive with the intention of remaining vertical, there have been a few times where I wound up heading home horizontal in the back of a taxicab. That said, I’m betting you’re talking about something completely different.
× Ask your questions at bonvivant@quench.me
Okay, so as exciting as wine tastings can be, there’s more fun to be had than simply lining up a selection of vino and having your way with them. You can spice things up by choosing wines from a particular country, or ones all made from a specific grape variety, or even juice that all costs around the same to see what revelations leap from each glass. Those are still pretty broad themes to taste by, so industry professionals conceived two unique methods of liquid review that are able to give them (and you, too, if you can put a flight of either together) a much more focused view of place and time. A vertical tasting includes multiple versions of only one wine made by an individual winery. The trick to a vertical is that each wine in the tasting has to be from a different vintage — preferably in consecutive order. Not the easiest (or cheapest) way to taste. What a vertical tasting offers is a chance to dig deep into the philosophy of a winery by aiming your attention at a single member of its portfolio. Say you were lucky enough to have a bottle of Château Latour from the 2000 vintage through to the 2005 vintage. Trying each in succession would not only give you a mouthfeel for the winery, it would also reveal plenty about the quality of each of those years in the Bordeaux region. (Not all of them were stellar.) A horizontal tasting is a bit easier to host because the star of the show is a single vintage. Ideally you would gather together wines that are similar (like in grape blend) and from the same area. All the wineries selected should be different. Here, if you picked Sauvignon Blanc from the 2012 vintage made in New Zealand’s Marlborough region, you’d get an overview of how different winemakers worked with the fruit from a solitary harvest. If you give either a shot, try not to taste too many wines at a time. Remember, you want to be vertical, not horizontal. × NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 21
THE ART OF IT ALL
by Rosemary Mantini
Winemaking is a science, right? It’s like a lab experiment where the winemaker h is the flavour explosion in your mouth. That’s all well and fine. But if you ask the w did), they’re likely to relate the process more to an art. Winemakers, like artists, m something that’s unified, unique, beautiful and delicious. Andrea Orsini of Tuscan laia agrees. “Art and wine,” he says, “have shared a special relationship througho Let’s go one step further. It’s not just the winemaker’s job to produce a work of art, it’s also the winery as a whole that functions to improve the society in which it operates. Yes, you read that right. Wine and art make us all better people. That might sound like a lot to ask of a winery (or of art, for that matter), but tons of wineries are doing just that. Take, for example, the Hess Collection in Napa Valley and Huff Estates Winery in Prince Edward County. These two alone have constructed entire buildings dedicated to making us, the wine lovers, aware of art created by local painters, potters and sculptors. It’s a passion for beauty that extends beyond the boundaries of wine and it encourages us all to find, as Orsini suggests, “sensitivity, passions [and] sentiments” in the world around us. Ornellaia launched a project called the Vendemmia d’Artista with its 2006 vintage. Its intent was to “revive the Renaissance tradition and cultural value of artistic commissions.” For eight years now, Ornellaia has succeeded in bringing to the world a feast for both palate and eye. Orsini explains: “Every year, an internationally known artist will be commissioned to create a work of art that captures the essence of the wine, the individuality of the vintage and its specific personality. … The single adjective that best describes the ‘character’ of each new vintage … is selected by the technical team, following an analysis of the ‘history’ of the growing year, beginning with the weather conditions of the entire season, through the harvest, then through the wine’s maturation in the cellar, and concluding with the tastings of the wine still in barriques.” Ornellaia’s commitment to fostering the benefits of art in society doesn’t stop there. “Each year,” Orsini continues, “the unique Salmanazar bearing the label created by the artist, as well as other large-format bottles, will be put to auction and [100 percent of ] the proceeds will be donated to international cultural programs supporting art in the artist’s home country.” 22 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
L’Infinito (Infinity) was the theme chosen to describe the 2011 harvest, and Canadian Rodney Graham was appointed to create the art that would adorn the bottles. Those bottles were later auctioned, ultimately raising $126,500 for the Art Gallery of Ontario.
Art and wine doing good together is great, of course. But what I find particularly interesting is how the two showcase the people that create and consume them. Alberto Alessi, owner of Cascina Eugenia e il Passero Solitario, grows Pinot Noir and Chardonnay on his biodynamic estate overlooking scenic Lake Orta in Piedmont. He suggests that “wine is important and meaningful in understanding the society in which it is made. Think of the taste and its variations over time, and to the style and status symbol it
F
In his book, Dream Factories: People, Ideas, and Paradoxes of Italian Design, Alessi writes: “The good gardener sows, of course, what he thinks is right, but above all he tills the ground carefully to receive the new crops, and takes particular care when the first shoots begin to appear, nurturing them carefully to enable them to express the potential they have within them. Moreover, the good gardener knows he can count on unexpected seeds brought to him by the wind. Good products arrive when they want to. It is difficult to produce works of art to order (…) despite all efforts, good projects follow their own rhythms, which are often inscrutable and can rarely be planned …”
hopes that the kaboom winemakers (and I mix elements to create ny’s Tenuta dell’Ornelout history.” can become (expensive and rare wines are sold often to collectors in the Far East). Even my own challenge of creating a wine label can be read as a typical move of the recent times and the society in which we are living.” Like Ornellaia, Alessi advocates authenticity in the way that both art and wine can be felt in people’s lives.
Alberto Alessi
Ornellaia’s 9 litre Salmanazars from 2006 to 2011
The other side of Alessi’s winery is his family’s factory, which continues to be one of the leaders in modern housewares design. The company’s mandate has always been to seek out the best international designers, then produce, market and sell the pieces under the Alessi name, like Philippe Starck’s functional and striking Juicy Juicer. Given his exposure from birth to all things beautiful, it’s not surprising that Alessi views the connection between art and wine as natural and expected.
This year, when Alessi launched his wine, he was inspired to become “the good gardener” in a way he’d never been before. Rather than finding an artist to design a special bottle for the vintage, Alessi took a leading role, creating a product that represented what he admired most about both art and wine. “The reason for me to design the Leo bottle (I never designed anything myself ),” he explains, “is because this wine project is especially important for me. It is such a private and intimate project. … [Usually], at least here in my country [of Italy], when you see a well-designed bottle, with a nice contemporary graphic design on the label, you start thinking that probably the wine is not that good ... But for me, as an Alessi, it was a challenge I could not refuse: another reason to take direct responsibility.” The Leo bottle, pear-shaped and reminiscent of wine bottles dating back to pre-Roman times, is so named because the bottom is ringed with the knots of Da Vinci, a symbol Leonardo drew on many of his creations, including the Mona Lisa. Alessi explains, “[we are building] a global project around an aesthetic idea that, yes, concerns the quality of the wine, but also all the things that would surround it, … we have worked on a kind of Gesamtkunstwerk sui generis [an all-encompassing art form that pushes beyond conventional boundaries]….” That’s how a passion for art and wine guarantees a feast for all the senses. × NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 23
on a lighter note by Michael Pinkus
WHEN ONE THINKS about wines from
South America (namely Argentina and Chile), the last word that comes to mind to describe those wines is “light.” They are known primarily for their weight, high alcohol and depth of dark, red fruit flavours. These would be reds, big reds: Cabernets, Merlots, Carménères, Malbecs — wines that not only pack a punch but pair perfectly with grilled meats. But I’m here to tell you there is another side. The continent produces their fair share of lighter-style wines, the majority of which are white (Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Torrontes) with a small but growing minority being reds (Pinot Noir, Bonarda and some Merlot). You’ll rarely see the real light-sters in these parts: Pinot Gris and Gamay; and I bet you don’t usually place Pinot Noir and Merlot into the light category. In fact, it’s rare to see one of these reds without some form of amped-up fruit and fire-starting alcohol. In this day and age of social media, I put a question out there to see what people thought about when I said “light South American wines.” Answers ranged from “Couldn’t name one” (the many) to “Depending upon the producer: Torrontes, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier” (the few). Seems that light isn’t exactly what people think of where South America is concerned. The good news is Torrontes is starting to make a name for itself — plenty of people had that on their radar. Pinot Noir from Chile is also starting to make inroads into the consciousness of the wine buying public, while grapes like Bonarda and Viognier are making some headway. It seems that South America is becoming a more well-rounded part of the world.
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So let’s take a few minutes away from our pre-conceived notions of what this continent can do and look at the lighter (and mostly whiter) side of this part of the world.
ARGENTINA CRIOS DE SUSANA BALBO TORRONTES 2013 ($13.95) Fresh, lively and fruity with orange blossom, citrus zest and melon rind.
CATENA CHARDONNAY 2012 ($19.95) You have to be impressed with a Chardonnay that highlights oak as well as fruit like this one; pleasant vanilla with touches of butterscotch and hints of grilled peach.
ALAMOS VIOGNIER 2013 ($13.95) This is such a misunderstood grape variety. It does well in both the cool and hot climates: rich and lively with pear and pineapple purée.
Alfredo Roca
RAZA DOLCE TORRONTES SPARKLING 2013 ($15.95)
ALAMOS CHARDONNAY 2013 ($13.95)
Think of this one as Argentina’s version of Moscato; sweet and fizzy. Perfect for those unpretentious days on the patio.
Downplays the barrel in favour of fruit in a big way: apple and pineapple notes with hints of spiced vanilla.
HERMANOS DE DOMINGO MOLIA TORRONTES 2012 ($16.95)
ALFREDO ROCA PINOT NOIR 2012 ($14.95)
If this is your first experience with Argentina’s signature white, this would be a decent place to start: floral and pineapple with hints of lime meringue.
Packs a punch with earthy, spicy and floral aromas and flavours; finishes everything off with a generous note of pepper. Great with patés and terrines.
CHILE CHILCAS SINGLE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2011 ($17.95) Think Chilean Pinot too heavy? Think again. Some can have genuine Pinot Noir character: raspberry and spiced vanilla with a juicy layer seasoned with white pepper.
CASAS DEL BOSQUE RESERVA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2012 ($13.95) This brings a new layer to the usually grassy Sauvignon Blanc; here you’ll find some tropically tinged fruit along with plenty of grassy notes and a long finish. Try with dishes rich in chilli and coriander.
CONO SUR 20 BARRELS LIMITED EDITION PINOT NOIR 2011 ($27.95) Pretty with floral and sweet dark raspberry; there’s also a light touch of cherry, herbal notes and a nice long finish.
ANAKENA SINGLE VINEYARD VIOGNIER 2011 ($16.95) Tropical fruit, orange blossom and grilled pineapple — very tasty, a great expression of the grape. This one’s a real must try.
VIA CHILCAS SINGLE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2011 ($17.95) Here’s something you really don’t expect from a hot climate country Pinot: a cool climate version. This one has light cherry
Undurraga winemaker Rafael Urrejola
UNDURRAGA ALIWEN RESERVA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2012 ($13.95) This delivers exactly what many are expecting in their New Zealand Savvy B with something they’re not, a low price: good citrus flavours incorporating both grapefruit pith and rind with an undercurrent of grassiness. Serve with simply prepared oysters.
and strawberry with beetroot notes, nice acidity and good spice; quite delicate.
SAN ESTEBAN IN SITU SIGNATURE WINE RIVERSIDE BLEND 2012 ($15) This blend brings together the smooth and creamy with the nice leesy quality of Chardonnay with the more tropical and grapefruit pith notes of Viognier. ×
• custom design & build • Premier Cru kit racks • wine coolers & accessories • established 1995
your wine deserves the very best home 416.285.6604 RosehillWineCellars.com NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 25
ABC by Rick VanSickle
It is both reviled and revered, depending upon which side of the ABC team you play on, but one thing is for certain: Chardonnay can be coolest kid on the block when grown in the right climate, with the right soil and carefully crafted by a skilled winemaker. Those “Anything But Chardonnay” people could be gently persuaded to join the other side if only they put a little more effort into finding wines that truly express all that is good about Chardonnay; the finesse, the freshness, the minerality, the vivid fruit and how it all comes together in the glass. While it is true that it is the world’s most planted grape (500,000 acres planted at last count), it is far too often thought of as flabby, bland, high in alcohol and short on pleasure. But Chardonnay gets a bad rap because the vast majority of it is planted in super hot climates — never getting a chance to reveal its true beauty. Chardonnay needs a strong sense of terroir — of where it is grown. A cooler climate with warm sunny days and chilly nights are the perfect conditions for a refreshingly dry wine loaded with orchard fruit and citrus flavours that’s also high in acidity and, at its best, has that minerality and silky texture sought after by Chardonnay lovers. Think of the greatest white wines (arguably) in the world from Burgundy’s top appellations of Montrachet and Meursault. Or coastal regions of California, pockets of high altitude vineyards in South America, cool regions in Australia and, closer to home, the distinct mineral-driven Chardonnays of Niagara, Prince Edward County and higher elevations in the Okanagan Valley. Dear people of the ABC ilk, there is a Chardonnay out there that you can embrace and love. Get off that tired, old bandwagon and taste what others so dearly cherish. 26 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
Our notes are culled (mostly) from the Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration (i4c) event held annually in Niagara to showcase some of the world’s best expressions of this grape. Over 2,000 guests sipped a diverse lineup of Chardonnay from the grape’s traditional home in Burgundy, to regions such as the Central Coast, Russian River Valley, Carneros and Santa Barbara in California; Chile and Argentina; South Africa; Penedès, Spain; B.C.’s Okanagan Valley and, of course, Ontario. All of the wines had one thing in common: the grapes came from a cool climate or a region within a warm region with cooling effects either from coastal moderation or altitude. The result was a stunning array of personable Chardonnays each expressing its own unique attitude.
FRANCE 92 DOMAINE DUBLÈRE LES TERRES BLANCHES NUITS-ST-GEORGE 2011, BURGUNDY ($105) Very young at this stage with aromas of citrus, pear, oyster shells, smoky minerality and soft spices. On the palate, this intriguing wine is complex and structured with a lively finish that goes on and on.
91 DOMAINE DUBLÈRE LES VERGELESSES SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE 2011, BURGUNDY ($59) The nose reveals pear, grapefruit, citrus, toasted spice and earthy minerality. It shows vibrancy on the palate balancing those unique mineral notes and integrated fruits and spice.
88 MAISON CHAMPY VIRE-CLESSE 2012, BURGUNDY ($26) Easy drinking with grapefruit citrus and slate-mineral aromas on the nose followed by smoke, lemon and subtle spice notes.
89 GERARD BERTRAND DOMAINE DE L’AIGLE LIMOUX 2012, LANGUEDOC ($26) A brisk and lively nose of grapefruit, lemon, green apple and subtle spice and mineral notes. The palate shows ripe pear, lemony citrus and roasted almonds that ride a core of fresh acidity and spice through the finish.
02
01
03
04 01 Ian Hongell, senior winemaker at Peter Lehmann; 02 Blue Mountain’s Matt Mavety; 03 Jean-Laurent Groux from Stratus; 04 Director of winemaking for Clos Du Bois, Gary Sitton; 05 Champy’s winemaker and manager, Dimitri Bazas
05
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CALIFORNIA 94 KISTLER STONE FLAT VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2012, SONOMA COAST ($108) The superstar of the i4c event from one of the classiest Chardonnay producers in North America (in my opinion). This has it all, juicy and fresh citrus, pear, river rock minerality and well-integrated fine oak spices. It is plush and voluptuous on the palate but not overbearing with ripe fruits, rousing spices, hazelnuts and good verve through the finish.
92 KISTLER LES NOISETIRES CHARDONNAY 2012, SONOMA COAST ($80) A generous nose of pear, pineapple, smoky minerality and oak-driven spices. It has depth and complexity in the mouth with bright fruits, wonderful acidity and length through the finish.
88 CLOS DU BOIS SONOMA RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2012, RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY ($26) An expressive nose of ripe pear and green apple with lovely spice in behind. It’s rich, textured and creamy on the palate with juicy pear and vanilla-oak spices.
OKANAGAN VALLEY 90 BLUE MOUNTAIN RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2011 ($30) A pretty and inviting nose of pear fruit, white flowers and subtle spice notes. It starts on the palate with juicy tree fruit, subtle minerality and spice, all propped up by racy acidity.
92 SILKSCARF UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2013 ($21) I love this pure expression of Summerland Chardonnay. Made with no malo and no lees stirring, the nose shows fresh green apple, lemon-citrus and just a hint of tropical fruits. It’s highly refreshing on the palate with pure flavours balanced by crisp acidity.
91 SPERLING VINEYARDS CHARDONNAY 2012 ($31) The nose shows pear, coconut, chalky minerality, apple pie and toasted spices. It has good concentration on the palate with complex flavours and spice with balancing acidity and a vein of smoky minerality.
89 CLOS DU BOIS CALCAIRE CHARDONNAY 2011, RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY ($29)
88 TINHORN CREEK CHARDONNAY 2012 ($23)
A more refined Chardonnay than the reserve above, with poached pear, peach and a balanced approach to the spices. Lovely mouthfeel to go with ripe fruits, a touch of minerality and spice flavours, all lifted by good acidity.
This is a softer style than I remember but still has some nice aromatics of sweet peach, apples and underlying citrus and cream notes. The fruit on the palate are joined by soft creamy-spicy notes that are well integrated.
NIAGARA
OREGON
92 13TH STREET SANDSTONE RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2011 ($35)
92 PONZI VINEYARDS RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2011, WILLAMETTE VALLEY ($56)
A warm, inviting nose of swirling spicy-creamy goodness that combines baked apple, poached pear, stony minerality and just a touch of citrus. Beautifully elegant and finessed on the palate, showing fine balance between ripe fruit, cream, spice and acid.
This is a gorgeously balanced Chardy with pear and other tree fruit aromas to go with a subtle mineral note. Such purity of fruit on the palate that builds in intensity with each sip, adding integrated oak spices through the long finish.
91 HILLEBRAND SHOWCASE WILD FERMENT CHARDONNAY OLIVEIRA VINEYARD ($36)
CHILE
This is from the Lincoln Lakeshore appellation and possesses an extraordinary nose of smoky, flinty, apple, spice and vanilla. It’s texturally perfect in the mouth with full apple-citrus notes, a mineral note that runs through the core and lively acidity.
91 STRATUS CHARDONNAY 2012 ($48) A more opulent expression of Chardonnay with poached pear, vanilla, toasted oak accents and spice on the nose. It’s rich and textured with succulent and highly extracted fruit, beautiful oak spices, buttery vanilla notes and fairly decent acidity.
87 VINA CARMEN GRAN RESERVA CHARDONNAY 2012, CASABLANCA VALLEY ($15) The nose displays tropical fruits, some herbs, peach and soft spice. It’s a fruit-forward wine on the palate with ripe tropical fruits, creamy vanilla notes and decent spice.
AUSTRALIA
89 FLAT ROCK RUSTY SHED CHARDONNAY 2012 ($25)
88 PETER LEHMANN H&V CHARDONNAY 2012, EDEN VALLEY, BAROSSA ($20)
Still a baby with soft aromas of pear, tangerine, toast and spice. It opens up on the palate with stony minerality, poached pear, vanilla and a healthy vein of acidity.
Plenty of tropical fruit, citrus and charry oak spice on the nose. The acid helps moderate the wood spices, revealing delicious green apple and tropical spices. ×
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Livin’ La Vida Bajan by Tod Stewart
I CAUGHT IT OUT OF MY RIGHT PERIPHERAL, ABOUT THREE METRES DOWN AND MAYBE TEN METRES AWAY, ATTRACTED, NO DOUBT, BY THE SCENT OF THE BAIT THAT HAD BEEN SET OUT. I hung in the buoyant, warm saline, trying not to hyperventilate through the snorkel as I sculled with as little commotion as possible to meet it head on. Finning at a measured, almost leisurely pace, the creature continued towards me, rising slowly to match my depth. My heartbeat quickened. I fought to remain calm and still, despite the adrenaline tingle that stoked my flight reflex. For a brief moment, I considered thrashing back to the catamaran anchored not that far behind me. But I knew I wouldn’t make it. Inches from my mask, with eyes as black as infinity, the alien-looking spectre opened its mouth. All I could do was repeat to myself over and over: It’s. Just. A. Turtle. A damn big turtle, to be sure, but still … Just. A. Turtle. NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 29
SEA TURTLES ARE REGULAR INHABITANTS OF THE WARM WATER REEFS SURROUNDING THE ISLAND OF BARBADOS’ WEST COAST AND TO THE CARIBBEAN SEA IN GENERAL. They aren’t in the least bit frighten-
ing (though underwater encounters with large sea animals can be somewhat unnerving to neophyte divers). The one that got up close and personal with me was just trying to get up close and personal with a piece of fish being fluttered in its face by our lead diver. The ancient reptiles appeared to have no fear of humans and took food right from (some of ) our hands, as this one did before cruising gracefully back into the depths. Though I received my skin diving certification through the National Association of Underwater Instructors (NAUI) when I was about ten years old, it had been, literally, a lifetime since I donned mask and snorkel, and did the whole Jacques Cousteau (lite) sorta thing. To be honest, I was performing about as gracefully in the water as sea turtles do on the beach. After a bit of reef exploring (nice blowfish!), I decided that being on the water was preferable to being in it. Heaving myself back onto the deck of the catamaran, I towelled off and settled down for a lunch of typical Bajan (the colloquial term for Barbadian) fare … and, of course, typical Bajan libations. My “dances with turtles” moment came close to the end of an excursion that had started early on a frozen February morning in Toronto. Clutched in the glacial talons of the dreaded “polar vortex,” my condo windows groaned in -30°C winds while outside, Lake Ontario steamed like the proverbial river Styx as the sun struggled — grudgingly and hopelessly — over its eastern expanse. The sprint from the lobby to the waiting airport limo dressed in summer attire brought me to within inches of frostbite. “Why the (expletive) do I live here?” I half asked, half cursed at the driver. Five or so hours later, as I stepped off the plane into a sultry Bridgetown afternoon, I repeated a variation on the same question to the driver as he took my suitcase: “Why the (expletive) don’t I live here?” 30 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
Jetting off to the warmth of the Caribbean while winter turned Ontario to frozen tundra had always been a dream. I don’t like winter. I don’t like “bundling up.” I don’t like ice fishing. Or having my car turned into a slushgrime-coated salt lick. As comforting as a crackling fireplace on a cold winter’s night may be, it pretty much sucks compared to a nice bonfire on a beach somewhere as the tide recedes. “You need a winter sport,” my hearty (possibly Inuit) friends would goad me. “I have one: sailing in Barbados,” I would retort. “I’ve just never tried it.” I thought about this and smiled slightly as the catamaran sliced through aquamarine waves that crested on platinum shores. I was finally trying it. As I suspected, I was liking it. Hey, wasn’t that Rihanna’s beach place we just passed? (Turns out, it was.) There’s plenty to keep a body occupied on this 423 square kilometre landmass, the most eastern in the Lesser Antilles chain of volcanic islands. Discovered by the Spanish in the late 15th century and claimed by the English under the name of King James I in 1624, Barbados has been an independent state and Commonwealth realm since 1966. This means that the official language is English and that motor vehicles are orientated left-side as far as road and steering placement is concerned (which can take a bit of getting used to for many Canadians). Besides sailing, power boating and sport diving, water babies can indulge in fishing, sailboarding, kiteboarding, parasailing, surfing, jetskiing, kayaking and anything else you can think of doing on, in, under or around water. That said, landlubbers can get up to some good times without getting their feet wet. But no matter what camp you fall into, you’ll need a base of operations.
Accommodations run the gamut, from affordable guesthouses to private luxury villas. I had the very good fortune of spending five sun-soaked days at Pandanus Villa. Perched on a breathtaking stone cliff overlooking the island’s Platinum Coast, and within walking distance to Mullin’s Bay, the villa came equipped with infinity pool, hot tub, personal chef and staff. Monkeys scampered around the grounds. Apparently it’s up for sale, if you happen to be interested. And happen to be a tad well heeled (asking price: $11,500,000 USD). As tempting as it was to simply hang out in the pool with a rum-based cocktail (Mount Gay Silver and fresh coconut water being a great combo), occasionally checking for a weather update from Toronto (and laughing hysterically), there was exploring to do. I STARTED WITH A TOUR OF HARRISON’S CAVE. Named after Thomas Har-
rison, a prominent landowner in the early 1700s, the cave was tentatively explored in the 18th and 19th centuries, but really wasn’t fully breached until 1974. And it wasn’t until 1981 that the public was given access. Today, it’s a famous Barbados attraction, where regular expeditions take visitors down through the labyrinth of the active (water carrying) cave network, past rushing streams, crystal clear pools, dangling stalactites and jutting stalagmites. Though you’ll be well shaded from the intense Barbadian sun while pseudo-spelunking, once back topside you’ll soon be in need of refreshment. While the local Banks Caribbean Lager wouldn’t be a bad choice, I’d opt for the real island spirit: rum. It’s the nation’s top export (on second thought, maybe Rihanna is).
A product of the island’s abundant sugar cane fields that you’ll see as you drive around, Bajan rum is synonymous with the Mount Gay Rum. I talk about rum in more depth in my story on page 42, but it’s worth noting here that Barbados is its birthplace and Mount Gay Rum is the world’s oldest rum distillery. Located in Bridgetown, the Mount Gay Rum Visitors Centre offers a range of tours as well as a one-stop opportunity to trace the history of rum distilling on the island. Of course, you can sample the range of Master Blender Allen Smith’s Mount Gay Rums here (not a bad idea — don’t miss the incredible Mount Gay 1703), but for the “real” Bajan experience, you might want to hit one of the many rum shops that are as abundant as churches are on the island (and there are plenty of churches). In a nutshell, a rum shop is basically a bar — where you serve yourself. Once you decide on the size of the bottle you want
(mini, flask or longneck; buzzed, ploughed or dead), you pick a mixer and free pour to your heart’s (or liver’s) content. Shops range in size from small roadside rest stops to larger venues with entertainment and plenty of seating. Judy’s Watering Hole is a good example of the former. The Village Bar, the latter. There’s usually local fare to be had at the shops as well. Dishes encountered at the rum shops (and elsewhere) might include the national dish of flying fish and cou-cou (polenta mixed with okra), breadfruit, buljol (a mixture of salt fish, sweet peppers, hot pepper, lime juice, olive oil, onion and tomato served on crackers), souse (a kind of pickled pork dish that can contain, well, all manner of pig parts, and that’s traditionally served on Saturday), and (this one struck me as a tad incongruous) macaroni pie. Must be the Caribbean’s proximity to the United States.
In any case, you have a number of dining options other than rum shops. You could hit the Cheapside Farmers Market to stock up on fresh local ingredients for a do-it-yourselfer; check out the famous Oistins Bay Gardens Fish Fry; or take in one of the many higher-end dining estabs like The Cliff (try to nail a reservation on the terrace, overlooking the floodlit sea teaming with fish below). The only real problem with visiting Barbados in the dead of a Canadian winter is having to return to the dead of a Canadian winter. When I left Toronto, it was dark, cold and freezing. I landed back at YYZ once again in the dark, in the freezing cold, and in the midst of an unwelcomed, raging blizzard. At least I’d managed to grab a couple bottles of the legendary Bajan Pepper Sauce before boarding the plane home. Stuff packs enough heat to de-ice airplanes. × NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 31
MAV WINE AN SPIRITS AWAR It’s been a great year for winelovers. Now in its eighth year, these awards are about the uniqunenes of assemblage and other tipples. Visit quench.me and tell us about your top picks. Collated and tasted by Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Harry Hertscheg, Rick VanSickle, Evan Saviolidis, Tod Stewart, Sean Wood, Ron Liteplo, Gilles Bois and Jonathan Smithe.
SPIRITS Ultimat Vodka, distilled in Poland for The Patrón Spirits Company ($80)
While some vodka aficionados will argue the merits of potato-based vodka over grain-based vodka — or vice versa — the debate is rendered somewhat moot by this ultra-luxury brand. A combination of potato (for richness), rye (for complexity), and wheat (for smoothness) make up the final product, resulting in a fairly rich, viscous spirit featuring slightly earthy aromas and flavours reminiscent of anise, almond and wet grain. Some peppery notes appear on the way down. (TS)
Mount Gay 1703 Old Cask Selection Rum, Barbados ($125)
There’s rum. Then there’s, well, this stuff. Mount Gay Master Blender Allan Smith took 44 cracks at creating this blend until he reached what he considered to be perfection. Rums from between 10 and 30 years old, selected from rare and exceptional barrels, combine to form this nuanced, complex spirit. Marmalade, caramel, vanilla, clove and dark chocolate all interweave on the nose. Silky, rich and warming on the palate, with traces of dried fruit, oak, spice, toffee, and vanilla. The finish has a lot to say; mostly, “more, please.” (TS) 32 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
THREE SHIPS PREMIUM SELECT 5 YEAR OLD WHISKY, JAMES SEDGWICK DISTILLERY, WELLINGTON, SOUTH AFRICA ($35)
This award-winning dram is a blend of both South African and Scottish whiskies aged in oak casks for a minimum of five years. The Scottish component is likely sourced from an island (or Islay) distiller judging by the distinctly peat/smoky elements in the aroma. In fact, this might be the most peat-influenced blended whisky I’ve tasted. Traces of toast, hay/dried grass, grain and vanilla also make an appearance. Viscous and slightly oily on the palate, with smoky orange zest, toffee and vanilla flavours. A very distinctive blend for those seeking a more assertive style. (TS)
LAPHROAIG 18 YEAR OLD ISLAY SINGLE MALT ($180)
For Islay malt lovers, the Laphroaig 18 offers up a dollop of everything you’re looking for. Sure the peat smoke is there, but it doesn’t overpower. Instead you are served a blend of sea spray/kelp, sweet caramel/toffee notes, honey, vanilla and spice. Assertive for sure, especially when not tamed with a splash of water, but again showing balance between smoke, nutty oak and briny/tarry seaside flavours. Incredibly long on the finish; you’ll still be tasting it a good 10 minutes after swallowing. (TS)
LUKSUSOWA POTATO VODKA, POLAND ($26)
Created in 1928, Poland’s Luksusowa (look-soo-so-vah) is the best selling potato vodka in the world. Very mildly earthy on the nose, with traces of damp stone and vanilla. In the mouth, potato vodkas typically have a more creamy/viscous/oily palate than their grain-based counterparts and this one is no exception. Smooth, with some subtle earthy flavours, vanilla, sweet spice and some pepper on the finish. (TS)
2014
ND RDS
NEW WORLD
ANVERS THE WARRIOR SHIRAZ 2008, ADELAIDE HILLS/LANGHORNE CREEK, AUSTRALIA ($85)
Vibrant, elegant and complex with aromas of blackberry, blueberry, black pepper and spice. Rich but layered red; black and blue fruit flavours and spice, firm underlying structure, silky mouthfeel, great focus, beautiful construction and a long, lingering finish. Approachable without sacrificing complexity. Would pair beautifully with peppercorn and herb-crusted venison. (GB)
LOCAL FOREIGN AFFAIR GRAN Q 2010, NIAGARA ($150)
This is Foreign Affair owner Len Crispino’s dedication to Giuseppe Quintarelli (now deceased), Valpolicella’s most famous maker of Amarone wines. It is one of the biggest wines I have tasted from Niagara, made from grapes (Cab Franc, Cab Sauv and Merlot) dried for an average 90 days. The nose is astonishing; gobs of blackcurrant compote, rich, thick cassis, leather, graphite and sweet spices. The whopping 17.5% alcohol on the palate is backed up by luxurious, sweet and complex dark fruits, well-defined tannins and an array of spices that echo on the finish. Drink heartily, but serve with grilled red meat. (RV)
CHARLES BAKER IVAN VINEYARD RIESLING 2012, NIAGARA ($27)
Baker’s second vineyard, where he sources his site-specific Rieslings, is located in the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation. Baker has managed to bring a sense of lightness and airiness to this wine with a pretty and floral nose of citrus, stony minerality and soft stone fruit. It has texture on the palate with integrated grapefruit and citrus notes, lanolin, bright acidity and wet-stone minerality. As with all CB wines, you can let this age for a few years in the cellar. (RV)
LANGMEIL THE FREEDOM 1843 SHIRAZ 2008, BAROSSA ($115)
Sourced from Langmeil’s original vineyard, The Freedom, first planted in 1843. Intense, fragrant minty and chocolate aromas. An “old-school” style, so brace yourself for a fruit bomb that explodes with concentration, complexity and juiciness. Rich, ripe warm-climate flavours, soft tannins and a long finish. Worth lingering over after dinner. (HH)
STAGS’ LEAP WINERY NE CEDE MALIS PETITE SIRAH 2010, NAPA ($89.95)
Not for the faint of heart, this purple/black-coloured monster reveals layers of black fruit, violets and spice. Powerful and extracted, it has a rich personality with loads of tannins and a long finish. Drink until 2030. (ES)
JOIEFARM A NOBLE BLEND 2013, OKANAGAN ($24)
Spicy Gewürztraminer (45%) and lively Riesling (38%) carry this “Edelzwicker” blend, seasoned with Pinot Auxerrois (8%), Pinot Blanc (4%), Muscat (4%) and Schoenberger (1%). Intensely fragrant and flavourful, with a potpourri of elderflower, guava, clove and lime. Fabulously food-friendly, year in and year out. (HH)
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BEER AND CIDERS HOFBRÄU ORIGINAL HOFBRÄUHAUS, MÜNCHEN, GERMANY ($3.10/500 ML)
Owned by the Bavarian state government and with roots dating back to 1589, Hofbräuhaus, München is one of the state’s oldest beer halls and one where Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart came to find “inspiration.” This is a malty, mildly hopped lager with some grassy/fruity notes in the aroma. Clean, crisp, smooth with some gentle hop flavours, it finishes dry with a refreshingly bitter end note. (TS)
KISSMEYER BEER B-SIDE BREWING LABEL, ONTARIO ($4.85/ 600 ML)
Okay, bear with me for a second. Kissmeyer Beer is Beau’s All Natural Brewing Company’s version of a beer originally from Denmark, now brewed in Ontario, and marketed under the B-Side Brewing Label. Got it? Actually, it’s kind of an interesting concept. B-Side is billing itself as essentially a “record label for beer.” And Beau’s is basically the producer behind each “song.” The first act to “sign on” was Andres Kissmeyer, a one-man “gypsy brewing company.” His first “single” is Kissmeyer Beer. Brewed with a shopping list of exotic northern ingredients (sweet gale, yarrow, dried heather flowers, rosehips, cranberries, maple syrup and the like) it is at once hoppy, spicy, floral and nutty in terms of aromatics. Crisp, spicy and hoppy with nuances of rosehip and maple, it is rich and complex, yet refreshing. Destined to be a hit. (TS)
TENGUAMAI YAMAHAI JIKOMI JUNAMI SAKE, SHATA SHUZO, ISHIKAWA, JAPAN ($31/720ML)
Crafted from premium Gohyakumangoku rice polished to 60% of its original size, this top-end sake is made using the labour-intensive yamahai brewing method where lactic acid is allowed to develop naturally rather than being added. The result is typically a more complex final product. Earth, pear, pumpkin, mushroom, hazelnut and something slightly vinous on the nose. Rich and creamy, with some nutty, slightly lactic notes, along with pear and earth flavours. Surprisingly zesty with great balance and commendable length. Exceptional stuff. (TS)
SAVANNA DRY PREMIUM CIDER, DISTELL GROUP LIMITED, SOUTH AFRICA ($10/4-PACK 330 ML)
Mildly fizzy, aromas hint at baked apple and clove, with a hint of citrus and a very faint minerality. Off-dry, crisp and refreshing with brisk, crunchy green apple notes. Serve well-chilled with a squeeze of lemon to bump up the acidity. (TS) 34 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier Märzen Brauerei Heller-Bräu Trum, Bamberg, Germany ($3.50/500 ml)
For those who have never tried a German “smoke beer,” brace yourselves. This is like no brew you’ve ever tasted. In the (very) old days, green brewer’s malt was kiln-dried, imparting a distinctive smokiness. This example, from Bavaria’s Brauerei Heller-Bräu Trum, is the only Rauchbier you will find more or less readily in North America. Intensely aromatic with notes of (I kid you not) smoked meat, campfire log, dark roast coffee, dark chocolate and spice. Medium-full bodied with flavours of bittersweet chocolate, smoked almond and mocha. Serve just barely cool with BBQ or smoked meat sandwiches. “Märzen” denotes a style of Rauchbier brewed between September 29th and April 23rd. (TS)
DESSERT WHISTLER CHARDONNAY LATE HARVEST 2013 (BENCH 1775), BC ($19.90/375 ML)
You don’t see many Late Harvest Chardonnays about, but this one is worth seeking out. Straw coloured with a honeyed nose of peach and sultanas; initial sweetness curbed by racy acidity gives the wine a clean, continuous line of well-balanced, medium-sweet peach and honey flavours. (TA)
SANDEMAN VAU VINTAGE PORT 2000, PORTO, PORTUGAL, 750ML, 20% ABV, $19.95)
Designed to be consumed younger than “typical” vintage port (though it appears to have enough stuffing to age a bit), Sandeman’s VAU Vintage Port is certainly a bargain in the vintage port category. Lots of chocolate, plum, blueberry, raisin and graphite on the nose that follow through to flavours of smoky, stewed plum, fig, anise, blackcurrant/blackberry, and some spicy/ wet gravel notes. Pass the Stilton. (TS)
FONSECA VINTAGE PORT 2011, DOURO VALLEY, PORTUGAL ($135) A massive amount of fruit on the nose and the palate delivers amazing concentration of ripe black fruits, layers and layers, huge structure, but wonderful vibrancy, minerality and a long, long intense finish. An amazing Port that you can either enjoy right now before it goes to sleep, or one that will age for decades in your cellar. Stellar! (GB)
INNISKILLIN CABERNET FRANC SPARKLING ICEWINE 2012, NIAGARA ($120/375 ML)
Extremely rare style of Icewine that is expensive because it’s so difficult to make. The nose is explosive with raspberry, cherry, strawberry and rhubarb that jump from the glass. Highly concentrated on the palate with an electrifying jolt of sparkling bubbles and finesse on the palate to go with super-concentrated, super-sweet red fruits and balancing acidity. This is a decadent and splashy style of Icewine to be enjoyed by a roaring fire with a little bit of dark chocolate or even paired with cocoa-dusted duck breast. (RV)
OLD WORLD DOMAINE MOSNIER CHABLIS VIEILLES VIGNES 2010, FRANCE ($27)
SPARKLING CORNELLANA SPARKLING BRUT NV, CACHAPOAL VALLEY ($14.17)
Chardonnay/Pinot Noir blend, made by Charmat method. Medium butter-yellow with a delicate but long-lasting mousse. Clean, light nose of lemon and rising dough, accompanied by cantaloupe, pear and coconut aromas. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, dry and tart, tasting of citrus and pineapple. At its best the year after purchase. Terrific value. (RL)*
BENJAMIN BRIDGE TRADITIONAL METHOD SPARKLING ROSÉ 2010, 100% ESTATE GROWN, GASPEREAU VALLEY, NOVA SCOTIA ($44)
Aged on the lees for 3 years, this one opens with floral scents, red berry, mineral and yeasty brioche, together with a dash of vanilla. Subtle red cherry and raspberry fruit on the palate comes wrapped in a smooth, creamy texture balanced with refined acidity and crisp mineral grip. Polished fizz made in what is fast becoming the classic Benjamin Bridge style. (SW)
Whether it’s due to the exceptional 2010 vintage, its “old vines” status or the extra bottle age (or most likely a combo of all), this wine is definitely on the rich side, though it retains superb balance and a very dry profile overall. The nose is classic and quite intense with the usual mélange of briny mineral, stone fruit, lemon and basil. It shows a nice interplay between moderately intense fruit and zingy acid, with nuances of peach and anise rounding out the flavour profile. (TS)
DOMAINE DE L’ARJOLLE SAUVIGNON BLANC/VIOGNIER 2012, IGP CÔTES DE THONGUE, FRANCE ($12)
Another interesting blended white that gets an aromatic supercharge from the combo of 2 fragrant white varieties and a bit of added heft courtesy of the Viognier. Ripe melon, peach and flower blossom carry over to crisp, lively peach/citrus flavours. (TS)
CHÂTEAU DE VAUGELAS CORBIÈRES LE PRIEURÉ 2011, AOC CORBIÈRES, FRANCE ($14)
The 150 ha. Château de Vaugelas was purchased by the Bonfils family in 2000, adding another jewel to the vinous crown of this family’s ever-expanding empire. Enticing aromas of black cherry, dark plum, vanilla, smoke, mineral and a hint of black pepper segue to a fairly rich, full palate with layers of ripe black cherry, plum and a slight earthiness. Manages to be both modern and slightly rustic at the same time. (TS)
GUADO SAN LEO 2006 (CANTINE D’ALFONSO DEL SORDO, PUGLIA, ITALY, 750ML, 13.5% ABV, $18)
Good value here in a maturing, moderately complex southern Italian red. Made from the indigenous Nero Di Troia variety, it offers up a fragrant bouquet of cherry liqueur, new leather, tobacco, tomato leaf and nutmeg. Smooth and supple, with enough tannin to give it some backbone and grip, its flavour profile suggests sweet cherry, vanilla, anise and dried herbs on the finish. (TS)
TENUTA ARGENTIERA 2010, BOLGHERI SUPERIORE, TUSCANY, ITALY ($65.50)
Dark ruby. Shy nose of black fruits and lead pencil, characteristic of the Bordeaux varieties used in the blend. Supple attack, but full-bodied middle palate with a tight tannic core, slightly rough on the tongue. Great length and aging potential. (GBQc)
HINTERLAND SPARKLING ROSÉ 2011, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($37)
This traditionally made sparkling wine is a blend of 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay from estate fruit. It starts with a beautiful pale rose colour and shows a nose of pie crust, strawberry and cherry with a lick of citrus and toast. It is driven by racy acidity on the palate with flavours of wild raspberry, tart cherry and toast all delivered in a long and refreshing finish. (RV)
TENUTA DELL’ORNELLAIA 2010, BOLGHERI, TUSCANY, ITALY ($189.95)
Simply a magnificent wine that needs at least 5 years cellaring. Dense purple-ruby colour; cedar, spicy, blackcurrant nose with a floral grace note. Lively and firm on the palate; very elegant with ripe tannins. A beauty more in the 1998 vintage style that reminded me of Château Lafite. (TA) × NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 35
FAB In the past two years, I have lost count of how many times I have been asked for my recommendations by oenophiles from all walks of life as they plan their first trip to California. My response is always the same: Napa Valley. It is still the epicentre of the industry and its proximity to San Francisco allows visitors to do double duty while visiting the Bay Area. 36 Ă— @QUENCH_MAG Ă— NOVEMBER 2014
FIVE by Evan Saviolidis
California wine country is a powerful magnet for Canadians. In fact, we rank number one in terms of non-American visitors to Napa. I attribute this to a strong Canadian dollar, an educated consumer looking for the “next big experiential thing” and a strong attraction to the California lifestyle. It is also possible that the movie tandem of Bottle Shock and Sideways has had an effect. As for wineries, obviously, there is a multitude to choose from, but I always invoke the same five. Why? It’s a combination of history, affordability, hospitality, quality and diversity. Yes, believe it or not, I have experienced poor customer service, poor wine and have been turned away, rather rudely, because a winery did not accept visitors. That being said, here are my Fab Five.
ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY
The modern industry and history of Napa is intertwined with the name Mondavi. Without hyperbole, his accomplishments are legion. His was the first major winery in the valley, post-Prohibition, in 1966. In 1968, he created Fumé Blanc, a dry oak-aged Sauv Blanc, which was a total departure from the sweet versions — the norm at that time. This dry template was adopted by the rest of California as well as the first Kiwi Sauv Blanc producers. He was one of the first early proponents of varietal labelling, which eventually became the norm for California, and in 1980, he partnered with the Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Mouton fame, to create the first Bordeaux-styled winery outside of France, Opus One. Most importantly, in my books, is the fact he preached the Napa bible to the world, while at the same time fostering a sense of co-operation with other wineries and growers. He understood that his success was their success and vice versa. As tourism increased, he realized the need for education (wine and food), events and diversity. These projects were implemented and quickly propelled the winery to a destination for all wine lovers. Never one to rest on his laurels, Robert was always looking for the next big thing. I remember meeting him at Vinexpo, the world’s pre-eminent wine exposition, back in the early 2000s while he was in his 80s. He patrolled the halls of the massive convention centre with the enthusiasm of a man half his age, engaging everyone he ran into, even this wet-behind-the-ears journalist. Sadly, Robert passed away in 2008 at the age of 94, which was a true loss for the industry. Without question, Napa would not be where it is today without “Le Grand Bob.” NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 37
DINING
Eating in Napa does not necessarily have to be expensive. Personally, I enjoy dining at all levels. Here are my five recommendations.
HAMBURGERS
No, not a restaurant, but rather a glorious concept. Napa is full of top notch burger joints including Gott’s Roadside and the cult In-N-Out Burger. The latter is also a favourite with Anthony Bourdain and numerous other top-named chefs.
THE OXBOW PUBLIC MARKET
Located in downtown Napa, this premium market offers artisanal foodstuffs as well as a diverse selection of restaurants ranging from Asian to Latin to my favourite, the Ca’Momi Enoteca, which serves some fine Italian fare.
LA LUNA MARKET AND TAQUERIA
This unassuming Mexican grocery store, on a quiet side road in Rutherford, serves up one of Napa’s best burritos. The regular lunch line-up of ex-pats, tourists, winery retail staff and suits is a testament to its quality.
BOUCHON
Unable to secure a reservation and/or platinum/centurion card for dinner at Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry? His French bistro in Yountville will do just fine.
TRA VIGNE
Three things entice me back to this restaurant every time: the cocktail list, the fresh made à la minute warm mozzarella, drizzled with olive oil, and the tagliatelle tuna three ways. Squid ink pasta is topped with olive oil poached tuna, tuna tartare and bottarga — nirvana on a plate.
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Chef Perry Hoffman from étoile Restaurant at Domaine Chandon
INGLENOOK
The name Inglenook is weaved into the fabric of California wine. As the story goes, Finnish-born Captain Gustave Niebaum set sail for Alaska in 1864. Four years later, he docked in San Fran with a haul full of furs worth $600,000. He quickly became a rich man and married Californian Susan Shingleberger. In 1879, he purchased the Inglenook Estate, which had been planted with grapes eight years prior, in the yet unnamed hamlet of Rutherford. Construction of the famed château started in 1881 and the first harvest occurred the next year. The wine was labelled “Claret” and became California’s first Bordeaux-inspired red. Subsequent vintages won gold medals at the World Fair in Paris, were served at White House functions starting in 1891, became the wine of choice of the grand rail cars of the day, and were bestowed 100 points by Wine Spectator. After the death of Niebaum in 1908, winemaking halted. Three years later, Susan restarted the enterprise, and it prospered until Prohibition. After the repeal in 1933, Niebaum’s grandnephew, John Daniels Jr., assumed the mantle of control, instituting a culture of quality (read expensive) until 1964. By this time, the 85-year-old winery was in shambles and in need of dire upgrades. Faced with a cash shortage, Daniels sold off 72 acres of vineyard, the château and the Inglenook label, while retaining the Inglenook property of 1,500 acres and the Niebaum mansion. With his passing in 1970, John’s wife gave up the ghost and decided to sell the remaining assets. This part of the story alone would be enough to cement the property in the annals of Californian wine history. However, there is more. Enter The Godfather! After amassing a small fortune with his epic film trilogy, Francis Ford Coppola purchased the property and added his name to the mix, creating the Niebaum-Coppola winery. The first harvest was in 1978 and their flagship wine, Rubicon, was first released in 1985.
In the early 1980s, famed winemaker Andre Tchelistcheff was brought in as a consultant. He coined the now-famed term “Rutherford Dust” to define the special terroir of the village. Using the profit made from Bram Stoker’s Dracula in 1995, Coppola purchased the remaining plots of the Inglenook estate, including the château, and started the restoration process, which took two years. To celebrate the re-opening, Coppola incorporated much of his movie memorabilia as part of the winery experience. The last piece of the puzzle fell into place in 2011, when the trademark rights for the original name were acquired. Coming full circle, the winery name reverted back to Inglenook.
DARIOUSH
My first visit to this winery was on an overcast and chilly day in January of 2005. The grey gloom quickly disappeared as soon as I drove up the driveway and was welcomed, most warmly, into a gorgeous golden 22,000 square foot Persian palace, which looks like it was lifted from the set of the latest 300 movie. Owner Darioush Khaledi grew up in Shiraz, Iran, one of the country’s pre-eminent wine growing regions. There, his father dabbled in the vinous arts and as a curious lad, Darioush was compelled to sample his father’s ferments. This fact-finding led to a wine collecting passion as an adult. However, with the Islamic revolution of the late 1970s, he was forced to flee his beloved homeland and start over in southern California. There, in Los Angeles, he partnered with his brother-in-law and purchased a failing grocery store, transforming it into the first cog of a 23-store empire. The success of the grocery business afforded him the opportunity to return to fine wine collecting and eventually he became convinced that opening a premium winery would be his next big move. The first guests were welcomed in the summer of 2004, with a one-on-one experience by a team of extremely knowledgeable tour guides. Darioush sources all their grapes from the Oak Knoll and Mount Veeder AVAs. This combination of valley floor and mountain fruit help craft some of the most concentrated and compelling wines I have ever tasted from Napa, including their Cab Sauv, Shiraz, Viognier and the ethereal proprietary red, Darius II.
DOMAINE CHANDON
Without a doubt, the best way to start any Napa wine jaunt is with bubbles. Enter Domain Chandon, the California outpost of the famed Moët et Chandon (LVMH) empire. As the story goes, in the early 1970s, Count Robert-Jean de Vogüé (then president of Moët and legendary Champagne figure) and his son were visiting their exporters in San Francisco. As chance would have it, the Wine Institute of California was also hosting their annual meeting at the same hotel. Intrigued, he sent his son to take his place with the importers while he participated at the California meeting.
That evening, he informed his son that Moët would be the first Champagne house to establish a California sister company. Obviously, his son thought that he had fallen ill. As for the Champenois, when informed of said plans, they were not amused at the perceived betrayal of setting up shop in the enemy camp. Nonetheless, it always pays to be first. Moët enjoyed great success, which inspired the arrival of other Champagne houses in California. As you walk up the winery’s driveway, the aroma of rosemary beguiles; the entire property is covered with massive shrubs of the soul-soothing herb. Once inside, tasting options include a myriad of sparklers, dry whites and dry reds. The common thread for all the wines is that the grapes are sourced from the cooler AVAs of Napa, which help to retain natural acidity, which is especially crucial for the longevity of bubbles. Post tour, a must (especially for foodies) is their fabulous restaurant, étoile. The food and service are top notch. They also pour wine from other local wineries including their sister property, Newton, which makes some of my favourite Napa Cabs and Chards.
BERINGER
With being the oldest continuously-operating winery in Napa Valley comes history. German-born Jacob Beringer first sought riches in New York. For a time, all was good. Then he heard the rumours of a wine region that had rocky slopes and fertile valley floors, much like the vineyards near his hometown of Mainz. Travelling west, he arrived in St. Helena with his brother Frederick in tow. In 1875, the brothers purchased 215 acres in St. Helena, and the first wine was made a year later. Moreover, for 138 consecutive years, Beringer has been producing wine, even through Prohibition. How? A federal license for sacramental wine production was obtained. In 1934, with the repeal of the Volstead Act, the winery was the first to offer visits for tourists, helping to ignite the concept of wine tourism in the valley. Notable “early” visitors included Clark Gable and Carole Lombard. Five years later, during the Golden Gate Exposition, then winemaker Fred Abruzzini took it upon himself to distribute flyers and maps detailing the main highways and attractions on the way to the winery, further cementing Napa as a tourist destination. The winery has had only seven winemakers throughout its entire history. This limited passing of the torch has ensured unwavering quality as witnessed by the winery being the only one ever to win the prestigious “Wine of the Year” by Wine Spectator for both a red and white. As for the current torchbearer, Laurie Hook, she has taken the quality of the wines to the next level, especially the Chardonnays. She has moved away from the overtly oaky/oily style to one which is more subtle with wood and higher in acid, creating a more food-friendly style. I will also profess a certain fondness for Beringer’s Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and Howell Mountain Merlot. The vertical of both slumbering in my cellar provides testament. Today, Beringer and its Napa sister properties Stags’ Leap, St-Clement and Etude are part of the Treasury Wine Estates portfolio. That said, each property is run independently and offers a singular wine experience. × NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 39
Adapting is the sincerest form of flattery by Sarah Parniak
Fresh twists on timeless drinks have become the norm at contemporary cocktail bars, making this the most exciting era to drink in yet. While creativity is at an all-time high, with adaptations ranging from subtle to outrageous, classic drinks remain prototypical sources of inspiration in the world of contemporary mixology. Lauren Mote, bar manager at Vancouver’s Uva Wine and Cocktail Bar and one of Canada’s most noted bartenders, sees knowledge of classic drinks as fundamental, often referencing old formulas when she’s writing a new list. “Using classic cocktails as a template is absolutely critical and necessary. The most common classic cocktails of all time are all very similar in design,” she said. “Ninety percent of what we do is so mathematical and based on systems as a bartender. The last 10 percent is creativity.” Mote schools her bartenders on 50 definitive classics, making sure they can mix perfect Daiquiris and Sazeracs before getting inventive. Once there’s an understanding of flavour, proportion and balance, interpreting a classic cocktail through a new lens can be as simple as switching up base spirits. The Negroni can be made with tequila, the Manhattan with aged rum and the French 75 with amaro, but you’d never know if you lacked understanding of these drinks to begin with. Every bartender has their preferred liquid equations. Mote loves the complexities achieved by loosely modelling drinks on the Vieux Carre (multiple spirits, vermouth and cordial modifiers with two types of bitters). Traditional punch — which comes from the Hindustani word for five (strong, sweet, sour, water and spice) — is also a frequently used combo. Spirit bases are easily diversified, lemon can be substituted with a more intriguing ingredient like yuzu, and sugar replaced with flavoured syrups from lavender to cherry blossom, she explains. 40 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
Shane Mulvany, who manages the bar program at Toronto’s newly opened DaiLo, is a fan of what he calls the Daisy spec — spirit, citrus and a sweetening agent — on which the Margarita and Daiquiri are based. “Most of my drinks come off as some sort of a riff on a classic, especially when I’m making a cocktail list,” he said. “When I started training [in London], they said do not start creating drinks until you’ve mastered these,” and slapped him with a long list of iconic drinks. Patterns and ratios in classic drinks are readily apparent, especially when you’re mixing them twenty times a night: Boulevardiers can be prepared using the same ratios as Sidecars (2:1:1) and the Aviation is a spruced up Gin Daisy. This repetition didn’t arise from chance, but necessity. “I think that a big portion of classic cocktail design is understanding that [bartenders] were once really limited in what they had to work with,” Mote said. In a historical context, it becomes obvious that old drinks are being updated because now we have the means to do so. The craft and DIY movements, though not limited to cocktail culture, have cracked a new dimension of ingredients and flavour combinations for bartenders to explore. “I think it’s cool to look at it on a broad spectrum — we can’t even fathom how many flavours there are out there to work with,” said Mote, who is also the co-owner of Bittered Sling Extracts, a line of artisanal bitters she produces with her partner, Chef Jonathan Chovancek. “We are in the middle of a bitters revolution right now and we’re grateful to be able to provide people with the tools to make interesting cocktails.”
CONSIDER THAT THE OLD FASHIONED, one of the original
and most widespread cocktails, can now be consumed ad infinitum: smoked, barrel-aged or jellied with genever or mezcal, seasoned with a flavour-wheel of sugars and bitters. Accessibility of information and enhanced communication within and between bartending communities is another modern advantage. This also means that the average guest’s knowledge has risen, along with expectations. “Now, it’s less about gimmicks and over-complicating things — the average cocktail can’t be just average anymore,” Mote observes. “In order to capture the drinking public, you need to learn how to make cocktails.”
SHANE MULVANY’S WO SHING WO is a twist on the classic Scofflaw, which uses his go-to spec.
WO SHING WO
1 1/2 oz Pike Creek whisky 1/2 oz Dolin dry 1 oz fresh lemon juice 3/4 oz cherry-anise syrup Shake and double strain into a chilled coupe. Garnish with a lemon twist. LAUREN’S CHERANTES CHANSON, based on the formula for the New Orleans classic Vieux Carre, is currently on the seasonal cocktail list at Uva Wine and Cocktail Bar in Vancouver.
CHERANTES CHANSON
1 1/2 oz Pierre Ferrand 1840 Cognac 3/4 oz Cocchi Vermouth di Torino 1/4 oz Okanagan Spirits Framboise Eau-de-Vie 1/4 oz Aromatic Syrup 2 dashes Bittered Sling Malagasy Chocolate Bitters
Lauren Mote
Proper training and mentorship play a crucial role, along with experience. “Veteran bartenders have figured out how to train, develop programs and transition into what is expected from them in the industry,” Mote says. “I think I was lucky that I got schooled in old style hotel service,” Mulvany said. “I was trained using tongs to pick up ice and told to always use a julep strainer for stirred cocktails. Technique is part of the theatre.” Mulvany recalls working with a grumpy mentor, who’d throw ice at his head if he swore behind the bar and crack him over the knuckles with a bar spoon if his stir wasn’t up to par. “I hated him,” he laughs, “but I have to thank him for helping with my technique.” But a scholarly knowledge of classic cocktails, a refined skillset and an expansive back bar don’t define a great bartender. “He could have been one of the best bartenders in London, but he had the wrong attitude,” Mulvany reflects on his embittered teacher. The classical influence extends to attitude; commitment to good old-fashioned hospitality is the strongest attribute any bartender can acquire. “It’s really about creating a place where people are comfortable, excited and having so much fun — the bartender is the curator of the experience,” Mote said. Whether the recipe is canonical or inspired, a drink is just a small part of the equation. ×
In a mixing glass, add the ingredients. Using a bar spoon, stir with ice until well chilled and properly diluted. Using a julep strainer, hold the ice back while you pour the cocktail neat into a chilled cocktail coupe or v-shaped glass. Garnish with a small cheek of orange peel, the pith removed — express the oils over the top of the cocktail and add to the glass. AT THE TORONTO TEMPERANCE SOCIETY, Robin Kaufman makes a spirit-forward variation of the Blood and Sand. Never wild about the orange juice component in the classic version, he replaces it with Campari foam, so “it still retains the identity of a Blood and Sand, but changes the texture and complexity. The iodine from the Laphroig is cool with the bitterness of the Campari,” he said.
STIRRED BLOOD AND SAND 1 1 1 1/4
oz Laphroig Quarter Cask oz Cherry Heering oz Punt e Mes Campari (for foam) tsp sucrose esters (emulsifier)
Stir everything but the Campari and sucrose with ice. In a separate glass, use a small milk frother to whip the Campari and sucrose into a foam. Strain cocktail into chilled coupe. Scoop 1/4 inch of foam on top of cocktail.
NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 41
Rum Run by Tod Stewart
CALL IT WHAT YOU WILL — RUMBULLION, BLACK GOLD, NELSON’S BLOOD, SCREECH, KILL-DEVIL, REDEYE, DEMON WATER, RUMBUSTION, BARBADOS WATER — RUM (AS MOST OF US WOULD CALL IT) IS EXPERIENCING SOMETHING OF A RESURGENCE IN NORTH AMERICA. I wouldn’t go as far as to call it a “comeback,”
per se. Rum has always been popular to one extent or another on these shores. Today, perhaps due to the growing appreciation for brown spirits, rum is moving beyond simply the base for rum punch or the ubiquitous Cuba libre, and into the exalted realm of premium and super-premium spirits. One of the oldest distillates around, the production of rum predates that of whisky by a century, with the world’s oldest rum distillery established in Barbados in 1703. Named after Sir John Gay, a hereditary Baron and prominent Barbadian politician descended from the island’s original colonists, the Mount Gay distillery was born, indirectly, as a by-product of England’s sweet tooth. Sugarcane (a member of the grass family, originally of South Asian lineage and brought from Brazil to the Caribbean by the Dutch in 1642, or by Christopher Columbus in 1492 — sources seem to disagree on this) grew like, well, like grass, in the fertile island soil with stalks sprouting from knee-high to over three metres in less than two weeks. This meant intrepid traders and harvesters could grow a personal fortune in relatively little time. France became so enamoured with sugar that it effectively traded its “few acres of snow” to Britain for the return of several cane growing islands after the Seven Years’ War (the “few acres” in question being, er, Canada). As demand picked up throughout the UK and Europe, so, of course, did production, which in turn increased the amount of “by-product” in the form of molasses. 42 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
No telling exactly when, but tales started to circulate around the plantations that some of this molasses was being fermented for an alternate use; this use being the distillation of a drink called “black gold.” Apparently you could tell which plantation was producing the most black gold via the corresponding slowdown in productivity. Nonetheless, word got out and a thirst for this island elixir soon surpassed even the taste for sugar. Of course what this meant, in practical terms, was that the profits made through the sale of rum offset the costs of refining and shipping sugar, making those involved in the trade even richer (hence, “black gold”). It also didn’t hurt that the water (a key rum ingredient alongside sugar) in Barbados was (and is) naturally filtered through layers of ancient coral limestone, resulting in an extremely high level of purity. Sugarcane (and rum production) spread throughout the Caribbean and, due to the influx of European emigrants, rum spread throughout the world. In fact, it was discovered that the liquor shipped overseas in barrels took on a deeper colour and richer, more complex flavour than before it had shipped, giving birth to the practice of barrel maturation.
left The oak’s permeability allows air to pass through the pores allowing the rum to mellow; toP Mount Gay’s master blender Allen Smith; bottom The 4 Maestros of Brugal: Fernando Ortega Brugal, Guillermo Abbott Brugal, Gustavo Eduardo Ortega Zeller and Miguel Repoll Lee
× For a comprehensive Rum tasting, see page 63 of the October 2014 issue
NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 43
Made from either sugarcane juice or molasses, rums can differ significantly depending on which base is used. As Mount Gay Rum Master Distiller Allen Smith notes, “… molasses imparts a rich, ripe, fruity/almond aromatic, and deep caramel and mocha notes, whereas rum made from sugarcane juice is much more vegetal.” Rums from sugarcane juice were originally made in the French West Indies and are referred to as rhum agricoles. In the case of molasses, water is added, along with yeast, to start fermentation. The type of yeast used has an impact on the flavour profile of the final distillate, with slower fermenting yeasts yielding more esters and, ultimately, a richer spirit. Once fermentation is complete, the resulting wash is distilled using either copper pot stills or continuous stills. Smith notes that Mount Gay Rums are a blend of distillates from both pot and continuous stills. “The pot stills impart a much heavier body and more intense aromatics, whereas the column stills are lighter in body and aromatics. It is the blending of both that gives all Mount Gay Rums their signature notes.” Joy Spence, Master Blender, Appleton Estate Jamaica Rum, explains that all their rums are also crafted using a combination of stills, each of which imparts specific aromas and flavours. “The pot still rums that we produce at Appleton are aromatic and flavourful; it is these rums that are the heart of every blend and which impart to our rums both their unique character and orange peel top note that is the hallmark of the brand. The column still rums that we produce tend to have nice fruity, floral, pear drop and honey notes, and we use these to tone the pot still rums.” The Dominican Republic’s Brugal & Co. distillery takes a different approach, one that allows it to craft rums in a distinctively dry style. “With alcohol being a solvent, a spirit made from sugarcane by-products is bound to contain more dissolved sugar, with the majority of it being contained in the heavy alcohols,” reveals Gustavo Zeller, Maestro Ronero, Brugal Rum. “Brugal uses column stills. Column stills allow for a better separation of the heavy alcohols from the light alcohols, resulting in a much lower sugar content and sweetness, as well as a much purer rum. It is this distillation process that characterizes the Brugal flavour profile.” But no matter what method is used, the final distillates are almost always matured in oak barrels, most commonly in ex-bourbon casks, but there are no real restrictions on the type of wood used or the lineage of the barrels (Brugal rums, for example, are also aged in Spanish casks that used to hold sherry). Cask maturation gives rum its final colour (though, as with many brown spirits, neutral-flavoured caramel colouring is often employed to maintain consistency). White (or silver) rums stored in stainless steel retain their straight-from-the-still water-white hue, and are sometimes bottled at straight-from-the-still potency (Wray and Nephew White Overproof Rum from Jamaica is a commonly-seen example of this style). The impact of oak maturation on rum depends on a few things, as it does in the case of most spirits. “The process of maturation in a barrel is a combination of chemical reactions such as condensation, esterification and physical processes such as extractions,” explains Smith. “A ten degree increase in temperature normally results in a doubling of a reaction rate.” 44 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
“Determining which rums profile that you want in a happen when the differen is both an art and a scien intertwined that it is hard and the other begins.” Joy Appleton Estate Jamaica Rum
In the case of Caribbean rums, the warm temperature of the aging warehouse significantly speeds maturation time. “In the Caribbean, we have a phenomenon which is known as tropical aging, meaning that a spirit in Jamaica ages at a rate of approximately three times the rate of a spirit aged in Scotland,” notes Spence. “For instance, our Appleton Estate 21 Year Old Jamaica Rum would have to be aging for 63 years in Scotland to achieve the same levels of richness and complexity.” Spence also points out that evaporation plays a role in the maturation of rum. “The permeability of the oak allows air to pass through the pores of the barrel, and this mellows the rum. The passage of air through the barrels results in some evaporation of the liquid; this is known as the ‘angel’s share.’ The rate of evaporation is dependent on a number of factors, the most important of which is the average temperature.” However, a number of silver rums — including the Mount Gay Silver and Brugal Especial Extra Dry — are actually oak-matured to increase complexity, but then filtered to remove the colour. Zeller explains: “All [Brugal] rums are aged at least one year; this is a law requirement in the Dominican Republic. In order to achieve Brugal Extra Dry, aged two to five years, the rum is triple filtered over activated charcoal. This process gradually lightens the colour with each passing. The charcoal that is used in this process is from Brugal casks that have been broken down and burned. It comes full circle.”
to select to give you the a final blend, and what will nt rums are blended together, nce. The two are so intricately d to pinpoint where one ends
y Spence, Master Blender,
In any case, there is a multitude of things that make a particular rum unique — from the terroir where the sugarcane grows, through to the water source, yeast strain and aging regime. However, it falls on the master blenders — the Smiths and Spences of the world — not only to create a distillery’s signature blends, but to ensure these blends remain consistent. “Determining which rums to select to give you the profile that you want in a final blend, and what will happen when the different rums are blended together, is both an art and a science,” Spence maintains. “The two are so intricately intertwined that it is hard to pinpoint where one ends and the other begins.” Smith elaborates: “If you were to run an analysis on any spirit, you’d get a report back indicating the level of esters, congeners, etc. That would be the science part. The art part is determining what the combination of all those compounds would yield in the best tasting rum.” “I first select the barrels of rums that will be used in a particular blend based on the age, type and style of rum that it contains,” Spence elucidates when asked about the actual process, “and then each barrel undergoes extensive quality checks. The different rums of varying styles and ages are blended together, with each one adding a distinctive layer to the blend which contributes to the complexity and richness of the [final] rum.” As mentioned in the introduction, the quality of rum produced today is up, as is the interest in premium examples. There are probably a few factors leading to the latter.
“I think we’ll start to see a lot more growth in the premium rum segment,” asserts Darcy Zupko, National Brand Manager for Appleton Estate Jamaica Rum, PMA Canada Ltd. “Not necessarily ‘premium’ just by age, but premium rum in terms of quality and taste profile.” Zupko contends that consumers are becoming more concerned with, and aware of, what is going into what they drink. They are doing more research into how, say, a quality rum is made and with what ingredients. “While rum is traditionally known for its party origins and more often than not the first spirit we were introduced to, rum such as Appleton Estate Jamaica Rum is also quickly being recognized as a rum that can be savoured and enjoyed for its quality, much like a fine scotch or bourbon.” Danielle Milette, Canadian Brugal Brand Manager, Beam-Suntory, notes that while emerging economies like China and India are the fastest growing rum markets, Canadians are also becoming more familiar with the pleasures of premium rum. “We are seeing a more discerning and educated consumer who is willing to trade up for a better tasting, quality product.” Much like other premium spirits, the best rums are rarely mixed. Serve them neat with a small splash of water or over ice. Finally, comparing high-end rums to single malt scotch or bourbon (or cognac/Armagnac/calvados) breaks down in one crucial area. While top-quality rum certainly stands up to them as far as flavour goes, rum has the edge when it comes to price. “You’ll pay an arm and a leg for well-matured scotch,” Smith (correctly) maintains. “Not for rum.” Indeed, the price for a bottle of high-end rum is typically less than for an entry-level single malt. At least for now … × NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 45
MEAT AND POTATOES by Duncan Holmes
THE TRUTH IS THAT IT NEVER REALLY WAS JUST MEAT AND POTATOES. OF COURSE THERE WAS MEAT, AND WITHOUT A DOUBT, POTATOES. BUT YOU AND I WELL KNOW THAT MEAT AND POTATOES MEANT — AND STILL MEANS — MUCH MORE THAN A COUPLE OF GRAVY-SOAKED LUMPS OF PROTEIN AND STARCH SITTING ON A PLAIN WHITE PLATE.
46 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 47
Yorkshire pudding used to be served ahead of the main meat course. It’s filling, which meant that you wouldn’t need as much (expensive) meat to fill you up.
7/8 1/2 1/2 1/2 2
cups flour tsp salt cup milk cup water eggs
1. Preheat the oven to 400˚F. 2. Stir the flour and salt into a bowl. Make a well
in the centre, add the milk and water, and stir. Beat until fluffy and add the eggs. 3. Beat until large bubbles rise on the surface. Let stand in the fridge, then beat again. Use a muffin tin or oven proof dish. 4. Add oil (your choice) to the container(s). Pour in the batter. It should be about 1/2 inch deep. Bake for 20 minutes. 5. Reduce heat to 350˚F and bake another 10 to 15 minutes. Serve at once.
YORKSHIRE PUDDING 48 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
Meat and potatoes describes a whole comforting family of food. Meat and potatoes was a whole culture — a way of life. How you eat, who you are, where you are and, sorry for a sniff of snobbery, where you came from. Meat and potatoes, because that’s all you really needed to get a meal going, defined simplicity. Nothin’ fancy. Just the honest basics. Shepherd’s pie, meat loaf, bangers and mashers — you know them all. All that said, we’ve come a long, long way in the last couple of generations from the daily fare of Prairie farms; from gentler cities and ‘burbs; from a world where the “cut” came from the local butcher, and the spuds and other veg were dug or otherwise harvested from what we grew in the backyard garden. We’ve shucked a lot of that for the supermarket. As the world has squeezed smaller, we’ve caught a whiff of tempting trends or come back from foreign climes to top up our shopping carts with dozens of new tastes that are miles away from the roast on Sunday, with spuds on the side and a ladle full of fatfilled gravy sloshed over everything. Tantalizing tastes that would have been “what’s this?” to our cautious great-grandparents have become regular fare in today’s kitchens. Being more conscious than ever about what we eat and what food can do to us, or for us, we’re finding that fat and starchlaced “meat and potatoes” are now all but forgotten in the meal choices we make. Eating in or dining out? We may go out on occasion for an outrageously-priced steak and a “baker” topped with sour cream, bacon bits and chives but, for any number of reasons, we mostly take a pass on meals like these. Then vegetarians appeared, teeming-green thousands of them, as have the flexitarians — those who are on the way, but have yet to make the last leap from meat. The quiet, compelling, Sixties-like vegans are among us, simulating meat-like shapes and tastes from soy; and so are the lactose intolerants and the gluten frees, dodging in and out of the re-designed supermarket aisles. Invite the gang over for dinner these days and the easy answer as to what’s to eat is “bring your own, we’ll open a bottle of something organic with a back label that says what’s in it.” I asked Barbara-Jo McIntosh, who has won awards as a food professional and is the founder-owner of the richly-stocked Barbara-Jo’s Books to Cooks in Vancouver, what all of this might be about. She’s a great trend-spotter and her book sales are accurate gauges for where things are going. She says it’s a wise person who limits their intake of the meat and potato combo. “Like all delicious treats, our diet would be balanced and healthy if we distracted our desire for burgers and fries, sausage and mash, beef roasted with the potato in its savoury fat, to once a week. The rest of the week should be dedicated to an abundance of vegetables, to great masses of colour and freshness. “I make a choice when preparing my meals,” said B.J. “I pair vegetables and starch, or animal protein and vegetables. My whole being is grateful when I am stringent with this routine. And happily, many of the books I sell are coming round to this way of thinking — meals where vegetables are the heart of the plate.”
But regardless of change, for many, the old habits die hard and the sizzling siren song of fat, smells of steaks and rare to medium rare roasts, beckon. “Eat,” said grandma, piling the table with mountains of … meat and potatoes. “Give that kid another helping. He’s fading away to nothing.” Why did we do this meat and potato thing? Because it was there and the combo was à la mode? A bit of both. But most likely it was because it tasted good and in a world without social media to tell us otherwise, we just kept doing it. Will meat and potatoes still have a place as we move forward? In a lesser way, of course it will. Despite the daily findings of science and medicine, it’s in our genes to return to our pantries and fridges for the meat and spuds that, in combination with butter, cream and gravy, will bring forth greater foods and tastes. As with everything else that is “food illegal,” these things will warm the cockles and feed the soul.
ROAST PRIME RIB OF BEEF
Of all the cuts in the meat family, and there are dozens, a prime rib roast is the star. Sure it’s expensive, but after the first celebratory dinner, it keeps on giving for days — in slices for sandwiches, in salads and in the preparation of stock for soups and stews. Praise be the well-aged, beautifully marbled — the word for intra-muscular fat — prime rib, and the meals it produces. Web and recipe-book research will illustrate many ways to prepare this roast. Check them out, but remember that your best guarantee of success is to buy the best. It’s an investment and a butcher will counsel you well. Let’s say you end up with a 5-pound roast. Here’s what I do. Sprinkle the fat side generously with salt and pepper. Preheat the oven to 425˚F and put the roast in, fat-side up, for 15 minutes. Then lower the heat to 375˚F for the remainder of the cooking time, allowing 15 minutes a pound. That adds up to an hour and 15 minutes, which will produce a roast that is medium rare. Let it rest for 15 minutes before you carve it. Remove the bones before you carve and offer bones to the real carnivores at your table. Save any others for making stock. Potatoes with your roast? I parboil mine for five minutes, then pour off the water, add oil, salt and pepper, and give them a shake to coat them before popping them in with the roast. When the roast is done, the spuds will also be done. If they seem to be sticking to the pan, add a splash or two of water. Serve your roast with the potatoes and other vegetables if you wish, and offer gravy or horseradish as an accompaniment. Gravy? Great gravy is an essential part of any roast dinner. After you’ve removed the roast from the pan, pour off excess fat and shake flour into the pan. On a low stovetop element, brown the flour and stir in some stock that will be thickened by the flour as you stir. Incorporate the drippings from the roast. It may be lumpy. Keep stirring, don’t overheat. When the mixture has browned, run it through a sieve. Season your gravy with more salt and pepper to taste, and add more stock to thin. NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 49
HEATHER’S POTATOES
There are all kinds of things you can do with a potato and this is one of the tastiest. Mint has the freshest flavour.
5 1/2 lbs new red potatoes 8 cloves garlic, finely minced 1 1/2 cups quality olive oil 1 large or 2 small bunches fresh mint, stems removed, leaves finely chopped 1 tbsp coarse salt Freshly-ground black pepper to taste
CLASSIC SHEPHERD’S PIE
Shepherd’s pie has to be one of the best meat and potato combos extant — even if I’ve never figured out how they got the pies out to the boys on the blasted heath. I’ve made hundreds over the years, never resorting to a recipe. Which is why I went to the Australian site taste.com.au to find this recipe, uploaded a few years ago by one Sarah Hobbs. Make fancy patterns in the mash, and don’t forget the butter on top.
1 tbsp olive oil 1 brown onion, halved, finely chopped 1 carrot, peeled, finely chopped 2 celery sticks, trimmed, finely chopped 500 g lamb mince (beef if you wish) 2 tbsp plain flour 2 cups beef stock 1 dried bay leaf 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 1 tbsp tomato paste 4 Desiree, or other peel-type potatoes, peeled, chopped (about 200 g each) 40 g butter 1/2 cup milk Melted butter to brush 1. Preheat oven to 400˚F. 2. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat.
Add onion, carrot and celery, and cook, stirring for 5 minutes or until soft. 3. Add mince meat and cook, stirring to break up any lumps, for 5 minutes or until meat changes colour. Add the flour and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes or until combined. Add stock, bay leaf, Worcestershire sauce and tomato paste. 4. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes or until sauce thickens. Taste and season with salt and pepper. 5. Meanwhile cook potatoes in a saucepan of salted boiling water for 15 minutes or until tender. Drain well. Return to the pan with the butter. Use a potato masher or fork to mash until smooth. 6. Add milk and use a wooden spoon to stir until combined. Taste and season with salt and pepper. 7. Spoon meat mixture into an 8-cup capacity ovenproof baking dish. Top with mashed potato and use a fork to spread over meat mixture. Brush with butter. 8. Bake for 20 minutes or until mashed potato is golden brown. Serve immediately. 50 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. 2. Wash (but don’t peel) potatoes, cut into large pieces, oil and
roast in shallow pan for 2 hours. 3. Toss the potatoes with the garlic, oil, mint, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Let stand for 30 minutes before serving.
PLUM PUDDING
I’ve included this because the holidays are coming. If you have kids, you can, if you wish, wash up some nickels and dimes, wrap them in foil and add them to the final mix. In these inflationary times, you may even wish to consider loonies and toonies! Kids love finding money in their food. Try this at home, but watch what’s going on.
1 1 1 1 1/2 1/2 1 1 1/4 1/4 1/2 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/2 1/2 2 1/3 1
cup soft bread crumbs cup seedless raisins cup currants cup chopped dates cup chopped citron peel cup chopped walnuts cup all purpose flour tsp baking powder tsp baking soda tsp salt tsp cinnamon tsp nutmeg tsp cloves tsp all-spice cup butter cup brown sugar eggs cup treacle or molasses cup milk
1. Prepare the bread crumbs, fruit and nuts; dust with a small amount of flour. Stir the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and spices together. 2. Cream the butter and sugar together well. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each. Blend in the molasses. 3. Add milk alternately with the dry ingredients, beginning and ending with the dry ingredients. Fold in fruits, nuts and bread crumbs. 4. Fill a greased 1 1/2 qt. pudding bowl or individual moulds 2/3 full; cover tightly with foil. Steam 3 hours or until done for large mould; 1 to 2 hours for small moulds. 5. Serve hot with a sauce, whipped cream or ice cream. If you make this pudding ahead of time, reheat by steaming for 2 to 3 hours.
SCONES
In North America, they call these things baking powder biscuits. But they taste like the scones that I remember as a kid in Australia, so that’s what I’m calling them.
2 1 1/2 4 3/4
cups sifted flour tbsp baking powder tsp salt tbsp vegetable shortening cup milk
1. Preheat oven to 450˚F. 2. To the flour, add the baking powder
and salt, and sift together. 3. Cut in the shortening with a pastry blender until the mixture has the consistency of coarse cornmeal. 4. Stir in the milk to make a soft dough, then turn the dough out onto a lightly-floured board and knead for half a minute. Extra kneading doesn’t help! 5. Roll out the dough about an inch thick. Cut into 2-inch rounds with a floured biscuit cutter, and bake on an ungreased baking sheet in the oven for 12 to 15 minutes, or until the scones are browned. 6. Serve with jam and cream, of course! Or butter. ×
NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 51
BOUQUET GARNI BY NANCY JOHNSON ...
Catching the Trends I’ve been trying to work my way out of a culinary rut and reach for trendy ingredients I don’t often use. While the rest of the world is going gaga for kale and quinoa, cupcakes and cronuts, I’m patting myself on the back for cooking couscous. Even though couscous is just another cutesy pasta shape, by stocking it in the pantry, I feel I have taken a huge step in the general direction of 2015. I’m turning up the heat on seafood, which I love but don’t cook often enough because it requires a separate mid-week trip to the supermarket’s fish counter. I mean, it’s not like I can stock up on fresh fish for the entire week during my Saturday run. I don’t mind frozen shrimp and certain brands of frozen tilapia, but no matter how often I’ve heard that flash-frozen seafood is fresher than fresh, my taste buds — and my nose — tell me unequivocally that my local fishmonger has cornered the market on fresh. I have to confess, I haven’t gotten into the Mason jar thing yet. You know, where you layer a bunch of food in a jar and take it to work in your lunch box. I am sure that trend will die out before I try it, but frankly, I don’t want to try it. The layers look kind of pretty, but what havoc will erupt when you start mixing up those layers in that tiny jar? The thing is, I am old-school: I make my own muffins and pie; my own salad dressings, spice rubs and dips; my own lemonade and iced tea. But I have to wonder, is that enough? Food fads come and go, but only a few truly make sense to me, like eating in season, eating locally and sharing food with family and friends. That never goes out of style.
PROSCIUTTO WITH ASIAGO CHEESE, FIG JAM AND ARUGULA
SERVES 4 When in doubt, serve prosciutto. It’s great wrapped around melon slices, as part of an antipasto tray or in this recipe, where it’s paired with nutty Asiago cheese and fig jam. Use as much or as little meat and cheese as you’d like. Kick it up with slices of sopressata salami or spicy capicola (or as Tony Soprano called it, gabagool.) Mangia!
1 1
loaf Italian bread Purchased fig jam Thinly sliced prosciutto Thinly sliced Asiago cheese bunch arugula
Cut Italian bread into 4 pieces; split. Spread top and bottom halves with fig jam. Layer bottom halves with prosciutto, cheese and arugula. MATCH: Excellent with a Chianti Classico. 52 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
BAKED HALIBUT WITH TOMATOES AND COUSCOUS
SERVES 4 Enhanced by white wine and lemon, mellowed by Italy’s San Marzano tomatoes and finished with a drizzle of olive oil and briny, dark kalamata olives. Plus it’s served with couscous, a nice change from the usual rice. Marjoram is one of those herbs that usually languishes in my pantry but is put to good use here.
2 tbsp olive oil 2 onions, thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, pressed 2 carrots, grated 2 celery stalks, thinly sliced 1 cup dry white wine Juice of 1 lemon 1 can San Marzano tomatoes, chopped in can with scissors 1/4 tsp sugar 1 tsp dried parsley 1/2 tsp dried marjoram 4 halibut fillets Couscous, cooked according to package directions 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil and chopped kalamata olives for garnish 1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. 2. In a large skillet, heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a large skillet. Add
onions and garlic. Cook 5 minutes until softened. Add carrots and celery. Sauté until softened, about 7 minutes. 3. Add wine. Cook 2 minutes or until reduced slightly. Add lemon juice and chopped tomatoes, sugar, parsley and marjoram. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low and simmer 20 minutes. 4. Spray a shallow ovenproof baking pan with cooking spray. Place fish in pan. Pour tomato mixture over fish. Season with salt and pepper. 5. Bake, uncovered, 35 to 45 minutes or until fish is tender. Serve immediately over couscous, drizzled with 1 tbsp olive oil and garnished with chopped kalamata olives. MATCH: Open a California Sauvignon Blanc.
LOUISIANA SHRIMP
SERVES 4 Louisiana cooking is all about the “holy trinity” of peppers, onions and celery, the Creole version of French cuisine’s mirepoix. This is a super easy meal because the sauce is simmered in the slow cooker while you take a long, leisurely bubble bath before dinner, something I would love to see become a cooking trend of 2015.
2 1 1 4 1 1 1 1
tbsp olive oil sweet red bell pepper, seeded and diced vidalia onion, diced celery stalks, diced tsp chili powder large can fire-roasted tomatoes large can tomato sauce tbsp Worcestershire sauce
× Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on quench.me
OLIVE TAPENADE
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS This is a great starter to dinner, impressive but easy to make. Don’t be afraid of the anchovies. They add a salty shot of flavour.
1 1 1 1/2
tsp sugar Salt to taste tsp Tabasco (or more to taste) lb shrimp, peeled Hot, cooked rice
1. Create the Creole Sauce: in a large skillet in hot oil, sauté pepper, onion and celery until softened. Add chili powder and sauté 1 minute longer. 2. Place tomatoes, tomato sauce, Worcestershire sauce, sugar, salt and Tabasco in slow cooker. Add pepper/onion mixture. Cook on high 3 hours. 3. Season shrimp with salt and pepper. Sauté shrimp in a large skillet until pink and cooked through. Stir into Creole Sauce. Serve over rice. MATCH: Serve with Sauvignon Blanc.
PATTYPAN SQUASH WITH ONIONS
SERVES 4 Pattypan squash has a delicate flavour and is smaller and easier to cut than other types of squash. This recipe isn’t an exact science – adjust depending on the size and number of squash you use.
1 3-4 1 1/2
tbsp olive oil pattypan squash, chopped onion, sliced cup chicken broth Dash sugar Salt and pepper to taste
In large skillet, sauté squash and onion in hot oil until softened and browned in places. Add chicken broth, sugar, salt and pepper; cook on low heat, uncovered, until liquid evaporates and squash is tender. MATCH: Serve with a German Riesling.
2 3 1 2 2 1/2
cups Niçoise olives, pitted anchovy fillets, drained clove garlic tbsp pine nuts tsp capers, rinsed cup extra virgin olive oil Juice of 1 lemon
Pulse the olives, anchovy fillets, garlic, pine nuts and capers in a food processor. With motor running, pour olive oil through the feed tube. Add lemon juice. Serve with sliced, toasted ciabatta bread. MATCH: Nothing but Champagne will do here.
SCALLOPS WITH HERB BUTTER SAUCE
SERVES 4 I often overlook scallops at the supermarket’s seafood counter and frankly, I shouldn’t. They are quick and easy to cook and absolutely delicious. This recipe was born from my determination to cook scallops more often. I happened to have Pinot Grigio on hand — you can use any white wine. I also happened to have unsalted butter on hand. I do recommend it for this recipe as it is creamy and sweet.
1 lb sea scallops, rinsed and patted dry 1 tbsp unsalted butter 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
3 1 1/4 1/4
Herb Butter Sauce tbsp unsalted butter, cut in 6 pieces large shallot, minced cup Pinot Grigio cup mix of minced parsley and basil Juice of 1/2 lemon
1. In large skillet in melted butter and oil, sauté scallops in batches, 4 minutes per side or until cooked through. Set aside. 2. In same skillet, add 1 piece butter and shallot. Cook until shallot softens. Add Pinot Grigio. Cook 1 minute or until reduced by half. Add herbs and lemon juice. Whisk in remaining butter. Season with salt and pepper. MATCH: Go with a Pinot Grigio, of course. × NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 53
NOTED ... 90 VIÑA SEÑA 2009, ACONCAGUA COSTA, CHILE ($113)
Dark ruby. Nose is a bit shy but refined with black fruity notes, hints of tar and meat. Fresh attack thanks to a light vegetal edge followed by a soft texture, silky tannins and full-bodied middle palate that lacks a bit of harmony at this stage. Time should help improve this. Finish is already pleasant. Wait 3 to 5 years. (GBQc)
91 HILLEBRAND SHOWCASE SERIES WILD FERMENT OLIVEIRA VINEYARDS CHARDONNAY 2012, LINCOLN LAKESHORE, ONTARIO ($36)
This impressive Chardonnay doles out toast, honey, apple, fig, citrus and caramel qualities. It is full bodied with excellent length and a fine spine of acid. Pair with butter-poached lobster. (ES)
91 ST SUPÉRY VIRTU 2012, NAPA VALLEY, UNITED STATES ($36.95)
A stylish blend of 56% Sémillon and 44% Sauvignon Blanc. Straw coloured with an elegant lanolin and grapefruit nose backed by evident oak. Beautifully balanced grapefruit and yellow plum flavours with well-integrated toasty oak. (TA)
90 DARTING DÜRKHEIMER MICHELSBERG RIESLING KABINETT 2012, PFALZ, GERMANY ($18.95)
Winemaker Helmut Darting continues the tradition of his father Kurt in producing very affordable Riesling at the highest quality. This single-vineyard Riesling is made in the old style of richly expressive wines. Pale straw in colour with a lime tint, it offers a nose of citrus, apricot and petrol, and a forest-floor note. Light on the palate, it is off-dry with a honeyed grapefruit flavour and a lovely mouthfeel. (TA)
54 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
91 CLOOF PINOTAGE 2009, DARLING, SOUTH AFRICA ($17.83)
89 CEDARCREEK PLATINUM “BLOCK 3” RIESLING 2013, OKANAGAN ($25)
Harvested early in mid-September to capture the low sugar levels required for an off-dry 8.8% alcohol Riesling. Very floral nose, bespeckled with white flowers. Pristine lemon-lime and green apple flavours turn tropical on the finish. Like Mosel Rieslings, expect crisp acidity, lively mouthfeel and joyously balanced sipping. (HH)
Pinotage is the durian fruit of the wine world — you love it or .... Clear deep-maroon colour. The aromas are typical and pungent, based on chokecherries and rhubarb overlaid with some coffee and smoke. Where this example surprises is on the palate, with an astonishing amount of delicious red berry-fruit. Medium-body and medium acidity with a wrap of firm, leathery tannins. Ready to drink. Eat ethnic: serve with grilled peri-peri boerewors (spicy South African sausage) over a bed of polenta with a rich tomato sauce. (RL)*
91 LE CLOS JORDANNE CLAYSTONE TERRACE CHARDONNAY 2011, TWENTY MILE BENCH, ONTARIO ($40)
Pale straw colour; lightly floral nose of apples and oak; medium- to full-bodied. Soft mouthfeel, elegant and silky; beautifully balanced. (TA)
× Find a collection of tasting notes for wine, beer and spirits at quench.me/notes/
Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category. Our scores are based on the wine's quality as well as price point. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Carefully study the commentaries to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Crystal Luxmore and Jonathan Smithe. QUENCH USES THE 100-POINT SCALE 95-100 = Exceptional 90-94 = Excellent 85-89 = Very good
SPARKLING 89 REINHARTSHAUSEN RIESLING SEKT BRUT, RHEINGAU ($18)
Pale yellow. Delicate nose of white peach and apple with a light floral scent. Very light and dry, the clean fruity taste combined with abundant carbonic gas cleanses the palate. Ready to drink and delicious on its own. Good buy. (GBQc)
88 SIMONNET-FEBVRE CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE, BURGUNDY ($22)
Very pale. White peach and a light spicy touch of cloves. Lively attack, nice fruity taste and a clean finish. Well done. Stock up for the upcoming holiday season. (GBQc)
WHITE ARGENTINA 90 DON DAVID RESERVE TORRONTÉS 2012, CAFAYATE VALLEY ($13.95)
The highly perfumed Torrontés grape is a specialty of Argentina and is one of the most seductive of wines. Very pale in colour with a lime tint, this wine has an intense orange blossom and peach nose with dry orange peel, ginger and lavender flavours. A bargain at the price. (TA)
80-84 = Good 75-79 = Acceptable 70 & under = Below average *Available through wine clubs
88 MENDEL SÉMILLON 2013, MENDOZA ($32)
Fresh and bright with stone fruit, tart citrus, savoury notes; clean and racy with refreshing acidity on the finish. A great match with ceviche or chilled seafood salads. (GB)
87 DON RODOLFO TORRONTÉS 2012, MENDOZA ($16.99)
Very aromatic with loads of peach, pineapple and citrus; fresh and clean with lovely mouthfeel, hints of fresh herbs and floral notes, and a fresh, lifted finish. A really good value. (GB)
ple, honey and minerals are supported by cinnamon and vanilla notes from partial barrel aging. The crisp personality, 12% alcohol and long finish make this well suited to grilled salmon or roasted chicken. (ES)
88 BERTON VINEYARDS HEAD OVER HEELS CHARDONNAY 2012 ($15.50)
AUSTRALIA
Clear medium-deep lemon yellow. Nose of banana, pineapple, orange and jellybeans. Full-bodied, buttery and soft on the palate, tasting of apples and citrus. Drink now with a lightly poached salmon or, if you are more adventurous, a braised rabbit stew with a mustard emulsion. (RL)*
90 LOAN WINES SPECIAL RESERVE SÉMILLON 2005, BAROSSA VALLEY ($16.95)
88 TYRRELL’S OLD WINERY CHARDONNAY 2012, HUNTER VALLEY ($19)
Great Aussie Sémillons usually come from the Hunter Valley, but this one from Barossa is a gem. Lemon yellow in colour, with no help from oak, it has a rich, complex nose of lanolin, petrol and peaches; beautifully balanced, mature peach flavour that reminded me of Tahbilk Marsanne (another favourite wine). The patio may be closed but summer is in the bottle. (TA)
89 PETER LEHMANN H&V CHARDONNAY 2012, EDEN VALLEY ($20)
This is not your parents’ Aussie Chardonnay! Planted on rock soils in the cool Eden Valley, this wine is all about restraint and elegance. Huge citrus, ap-
Crisp, bright and aromatic with apple, lemon and pear fruit flavours; round texture, good structure finishing quite fresh with more and more fruit in each sip. A natural with chicken and pork. (GB)
86 ROSEMOUNT ESTATE SÉMILLON/CHARDONNAY 2010, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA ($14.99)
Tropical and ripe citrus fruit on the nose shifting towards leaner citrus and crisp green-apple flavours in the mouth. Finishing with lively refreshing acidity and dry grip, it will pair well with seafood, cream-based pastas and white meat dishes. (SW) NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 55
NOTED ... CANADA 91 TANTALUS RIESLING 2013, OKANAGAN ($23)
Complex throughout, opening with intense floral, lime and petrol aromatics. Vibrant flavours of green apple, kiwi, guava, pink grapefruit and, of course, more lime. A dab of honeyed sweetness balances the zesty acidity. Long mineral-toned finish. Pair with ceviche now, or patiently wait for added nuances as this decade progresses. (HH)
90 QUAIL’S GATE DRY RIESLING 2013, OKANAGAN ($17)
From estate vines that are nearly 30 years old. A lovely nose of citrus, peach, apple and flinty minerality. The palate reveals bright green-apple flavours with citrus and lime accents to go with that vein of minerality and firm acidic backbone. (RV)
90 FEATHERSTONE CANADIAN OAK CHARDONNAY 2012, NIAGARA ($22)
Fermented with wild yeast, the fermentation took place in oak barrels that are made from oak trees that grow along the Grand River in Brantford. How Canadian! The nose shows poached and spicy pear with hints of green apple and vanilla. It has wonderful texture in the mouth with creamy ripe pear, well-integrated spice and grip through the finish. Try with crab cakes or grilled shrimp. (RV)
89 QUAILS’ GATE DRY RIESLING 2013, OKANAGAN ($16.99)
One of the driest Rieslings in BC. Very pale in colour with a lime tint. Minerally, floral, citrus nose. Medium-bodied, tart green-apple and lime flavours with racy, mouth-freshening acidity. (TA)
89 QUAILS’ GATE CHENIN BLANC 2013, OKANAGAN ($18.99)
Quails’ Gate has a consistent history with this wine. Very pale straw colour. Minerally, pear nose. Dry, medium-bodied pear and lemon zest flavours. Clean and true to the varietal, well balanced. A great food wine. (TA) 56 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
88 CALLIOPE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2013, BC VQA ($16) Very fragrant aromas and intense flavours, highlighted by varietal markers like gooseberry, passion fruit and pink grapefruit. Citrusy acidity and a dry, medium-bodied palate support a well-balanced quaff. There’s a mineral tanginess on the finish with a lick of wet stone. Pairs well with halibut. (HH)
Pinot Gris (22%). Viognier (21%) adds a honeyed texture and spicy tropical fruit. Chardonnay (15%) offers crisp apple and a toasty note; while for Riesling (12%), it’s tangy acidity and sweet lime. Will be enjoyed by most everyone, so it’s the ideal potluck party-pleaser. (HH)
86 CALLIOPE VIOGNIER 2013, BC VQA ($14)
Apple, citrus, white flowers, honey and hints of tropical fruit are all in play in this medium-bodied, refined wine. There was no malolactic, so there is fresh acid as well as very good length. (ES)
Engaging tangerine, pear, cantaloupe and herbal aromas lead to spicy apricot and tangy Seville orange flavours. The weighty mid-palate creaminess gives way to a slight oiliness on the back end. Finishes with hints of anise and white pepper. Try with fruit-stuffed pork loin dishes. (HH)
88 QUAIL’S GATE CHENIN BLANC 2012, OKANAGAN ($19)
86 COYOTE’S RUN GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2013, NIAGARA ($14.95)
88 PELLER ESTATES PRIVATE RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2012, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE ($18.95)
Fantastic expression of this grape with a nose of white flowers, melon and pear-apple fruits. Nice and crisp in the mouth with pure apple, minerals and refreshing citrus notes through the finish. (RV)
88 SOUTHBROOK TRIOMPHE CHARDONNAY 2012, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE ($22.95)
The ripe and round Chardonnay has seen 50% oak. That said, it is not overt; rather, the fruit and wood are in balance, producing a lifted nose of pear, pineapple, grilled peach, apple, vanilla and caramel. It is mid-weight with a lengthy aftertaste and good acidity. Ready to drink. (ES)
88 HIDDEN BENCH ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2012, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($28.75) Yes, there is oak but it is kept in check by the fruit, producing a mix of caramel, honey, vanilla, peach, pineapple, citrus and sweet apple. Medium to full body; there is sound acid and a lengthy aftertaste. (ES)
87 CALLIOPE FIGURE 8 WHITE 2013, BC VQA ($15)
Each grape’s character pokes through. Fresh-cut grass aromas from Sauv Blanc (30%). Ripe pear flavour from
Coyote’s first ever Gewürz is a textbook sample. Peach, rosewater, orange blossom, honey, cinnamon and pineapple find themselves on a medium-bodied frame. Dry, there is moderate length and uplifting acidity. A Gewürz is sometimes hard to match. Lobster and other shellfish are easy standards but spicy dishes are where this wine shines. Even if it’s just a shot of wasabi with your favourite sushi. (ES)
86 SERENDIPITY VIOGNIER 2013, OKANAGAN ($20) Opens with spicy apricot on the nose supported by orange-peel scents. Blood orange and tangerine flavours punch through the medium-bodied frame and rich, round mouthfeel from the sur lees contact. Closes with zesty citrus peel. Seems well-suited to coconut sauce– based dishes. (HH)
85 SERENDIPITY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2013, OKANAGAN ($20)
Varietal-true wet grass leads a scent trail of dill, citrus and melon. The sharp acidity splashes flavours of kiwi, asparagus and pink grapefruit throughout the medium-bodied frame, while lime and honeydew linger. Tasty with smoked salmon and goatcheese crostini. (HH)
CHILE 89 VOLCANES DE CHILE POMERAPE LIMITED EDITION SAUVIGNON BLANC 2011, LEYDA VALLEY ($14.95)
Here’s a well-priced Sauvignon Blanc from Chile that makes a perfect partner for goat’s cheese or shellfish. Pale straw in colour, it sends off an intense bouquet of asparagus and nettles. The flavour is all gooseberries and cut grass riding on lively acidity to a green guava finish. (TA)
FRANCE 92 LOUIS LATOUR CORTONCHARLEMAGNE GRAND CRU 2009, BURGUNDY ($189)
Pale yellow. Complex nose full of finesse; delicate oaky and smoky notes over ripe fruit. Expansive on the palate, fatty texture. Again, great finesse in the flavour. Precise acidity, well-balanced and a lively, extremely long finish. Must wait a few more years to show its full potential. (GBQc)
91 DOMAINE GAUBY LES CALCINAIRES 2012, IGP CÔTES CATALANES, ROUSSILLON ($25.65)
Pale golden yellow. Notes of tropical fruits and honey over a limestone edge. This blend of Muscat, Chardonnay and Macabeu has a sharp fruity taste, powerful acidity and penetrating flavour. Very long finish to match. Impressive. (GBQc)
90 JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE CM SANCERRE 2012, LOIRE ($28) A very fine Sauvignon Blanc with a nose of grapefruit, fresh herbs, lime, citrus and gorgeous mineral notes. The fruits are plump and juicy on the palate with chalky minerality and good verve through the finish. (RV)
88 ADRIEN VACHER LES ADRETS 2012, ROUSSETTE DE SAVOIE ($17) Pale yellow. Slightly perfumed nose of pear-peach with hints of honey. Delicate flavour, fatty texture, balanced acidity and a nice round finish give this 100% Altesse wine a somewhat reserved per-
sonality. It is ready to drink with roasted chicken or pork. (GBQc)
88 DOMAINE DU TREMBLAY VIN NOBLE QUINCY 2012, TOURAINE, LOIRE VALLEY ($21)
Pale yellow. Grassy nose with citrus notes and a dry mineral undertone. Lean attack, lively; flavourful middle palate sharpened by acidity. Light body and good length. Drink now with seafood. (GBQc)
88 SAINT COSME CÔTES-DURHÔNE BLANC 2012, RHÔNE VALLEY ($28)
Fresh with white peach, melon, almonds and savoury notes. Mineral, firm mid-palate and a bit of wet stone on the round finish. Versatile match with everything from roast pork to lentils. (GB)
87 DOMAINE D’ALZIPRATU FIUMESECCU 2013, CALVI, CORSICA ($22.40)
Pale yellow. Citrusy nose. Discreet; hints of almonds. Lively on the palate with a light body and a fresh taste of good intensity. Sharp finish. Drink now with oysters or seafood. (GBQc)
GERMANY 88 HENKELL TROCKEN RIESLING DRY RHEINGAU ($20.25)
Pale yellow. Citrusy nose with hints of petrol. Biting acidity, tempered in the middle palate by a little residual sugar. Finish is energetic with a touch of bitterness. (GBQc)
GREECE 91 KTIMA BIBLIA CHORA ASSYRTIKO/SAUVIGNON BLANC 2013, PANGEON IGP ($22.95)
This 40/60 blend starts off with a pale straw colour and then leads into a perfume of fresh-cut grass, bergamot, passion fruit, white pepper, mango, green apple and honey. Once on the taste buds, the minerals and citrus kick in, creating a long finale. Great juice and the price is right! (ES)
90 KTIMA BIBLIA CHORA OVILOS 2013, PANGEON IGP ($29.25)
Many believe that Greece’s finest wines are those that are blends between indigenous and French grapes. Here, you will find a marriage of Sémillon and Assyrtiko. The former provides the weight and aroma, while the latter balances with freshness and minerality. Peach, red apple, mineral, honey, wax, evergreen and pineapple on the nose mesh with lanolin, spice and cream on the palate. Long aftertaste. It will age well, especially if you find the mature qualities of Sémillon enticing. (ES)
89 DOMAINE GEROVASSILIOU WHITE 2013, EPANOMI ($22.95)
This is a 50/50 blend of Malagousia and Assyrtiko, the famous white grape of Santorini, which has now been transplanted all over Greece. By blending the 2, the exotic aromas of Malagousia find a home with Assyrtiko’s mineral-driven, crisp personality. Peach, honey, white flowers, crushed rock and spice are all in play. Splendid length and ready to drink. (ES)
89 DOMAINE GEROVASSILIOU MALAGOUSIA 2013, EPANOMI ($29.95)
Depending on your point of view, Malagousia is Greece’s answer to Gewürz or Muscat. One of the main differences between it and the aforementioned grapes is the fact that it retains acidity. Gerovassiliou’s version serves up honey, peach, spice, orange blossom, bergamot, citrus and spice qualities. Superb length makes this wine a natural partner for sushi or deepfried appetizers. (ES)
ITALY 90 DONNAFUGATA VIGNA DI GABRI 2011, CONTESSA ENTELLINA, SICILY ($24.25)
Pale yellow. Pleasant, slightly perfumed nose. Its greatest quality is its balance and harmony on the palate matched by its freshness. Everything is in the right proportions: acidity, alcohol, fruity NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 57
NOTED ... extract. Simply delicious. About 2/3 Ansonica (the local name for Insolia) combined with Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Catarratto. (GBQc)
89 CASATA MONTICELLO CONTI SPERONI 2009, BARBERA D’ASTI SUPERIORE DOCG ($13.67)
Clear medium-deep garnet colour, with a clean medium-intensity, fully developed nose of strawberry jam, candy floss, tea, a hint of mint and toast aromas from oak aging. On the medium-bodied palate, there is a blend of sour- and black-cherry flavours. The relatively high acidity and low tannins make this a sort of red wine equivalent of Sauvignon Blanc. Drink up. (RL)*
88 SARTORI GARGANEGA 2012, GARDA DOC ($14.99)
Opens with soft floral and green fruit scents, and a subtle but distinct trace of almond. Supple, green fruit flavours are supported by firm mineral and appetizing acidity, finishing with green-apple and mineral notes. (SW)
NEW ZEALAND 92 GREYWACKE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2013, MARLBOROUGH ($24.95)
Winemaker Kevin Judd, who put Cloudy Bay Sauvignon on the world wine map, makes this stunning wine at Dog Point Winery in the Brancott Valley. Very pale in colour, it has an intense guava and pea-pod nose; elegant and beautifully balanced with mouth-watering citrus and green plum flavours. Try with a panzanella (a Florentine bread salad made with tomatoes). (TA)
91 GREYWACKE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2013, SOUTH BAY ($25)
This partially barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc is simply lovely with a nose of lime-grapefruit, smoky herbs, melon, hay and sweet grass. It has inviting texture on the palate with lemon-lime, exotic tropical fruits, herbs and freshening acidity. A welcome change from typical SB. (RV) 58 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
88 KIM CRAWFORD UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2013, EAST COAST ($18)
A nicely balanced and easy-drinking Chardonnay from NZ. The nose shows ripe orchard fruit, pineapple and inviting citrus notes. It’s fresh with flavours of peach, pear and tropical fruit. Serve this with pan-seared salmon and lemon wedges. Yum. (RV)
87 MONKEY BAY PINOT GRIGIO 2013 ($14)
A floral nose with intriguing tangerine, melon and ripe apple notes. It’s ripe and round on the palate and has some weight for a Pinot Grigio, but it’s a nice summer sipper with low acidity. (RV)
PORTUGAL 86 ADEGA COOP MURALHAS DE MONÇÃO 2012, VINHO VERDE ($15) Pale yellow. Light nose of pear with a mineral (oily) nuance. Its lively acidity is reinforced by a small amount of carbonic gas. Its light body and flavour make it a quaffable wine that drinks well right now. A blend of Alvarinho and Trajadura. (GBQc)
SOUTH AFRICA 91 WARWICK THE FIRST LADY UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2013 ($13.67)
Clear medium-deep gold. Flirtatious buttery melon and peach aromas. This Lady is voluptuous, full-bodied and plush on the palate, with citrus flavours and a long, rich finish, accessorized with a spark of acidity. Great value. Drink young. (RL)*
86 TWO OCEANS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, WESTERN CAPE ($11) Fragrant aromas jump from the glass, with floral, gooseberry, tropical fruit and 3-bean salad. Lively acidity underpinned by ripe melon, passion fruit, asparagus and pineapple. Lingering notes of nettles and spice. The touch of sweetness and modest 12% alcohol partner well with mildly spiced Thai dishes. (HH)
86 TWO OCEANS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, WESTERN CAPE ($12.29)
Offers fresh Sauvignon varietal aromatic gooseberry; green herbal and grapefruit with lively flavours encompassing gooseberry, citrus, characteristic mineral and crisp acidity. Surprising quality for the price. (SW)
UNITED STATES 92 STONESTREET BROKEN ROAD CHARDONNAY 2011, ALEXANDER VALLEY ($49.95)
This is a remarkably fine Chardonnay that could well have come from Burgundy in a warm vintage! Straw in colour with green highlights, its nose is nutty, minerally and toasty with a barnyard note. Full-bodied with sweet tropical fruit flavours, it’s beautifully knit with a toasty, nutty finish that ends satisfyingly dry. Great length and breed. (TA)
89 CHATEAU ST JEAN CHARDONNAY 2011, SONOMA ($18.99)
A polished California Chardonnay showing citrus, subtle buttery notes and a whiff of hazelnut on the nose. Ripe citrus and apple flavours come in a creamy texture with lively acidity and mineral on the finish. (SW)
88 DON SEBASTIANI & SONS THE CRUSHER CHARDONNAY 2011, WILSON VINEYARD, CLARKSBURG, CALIFORNIA ($19.50) Offers inviting, lightly buttery lemon-citrus and vanilla scents with green apple coming forward on the palate. Backed by zesty acidity and mineral notes, it finishes very dry. (SW)
ROSÉ 87 CALLIOPE ROSÉ 2013, BC VQA ($14)
A watermelon pink-coloured blend of mostly Syrah and ample Viognier. Focused red berry, floral and spice aromas. The hefty Tavel-like mouthfeel features
plum, watermelon, anise and orange flavours. Dry tannin and white pepper on the finish. Pairs brightly with a watermelon, mint and feta cheese salad. (HH)
86 SERENDIPITY ROSÉ 2013, OKANAGAN ($18)
A pale pink/rose colour from 24-hour skin contact. Confected aromas of strawberry and rhubarb with tangier flavours of cranberry, pomegranate and watermelon on the light-bodied palate. Juicy acidity and zesty mouthfeel ensure a food-friendly cool-climate rosé. Tasty with candied salmon. (HH)
89 DOMAINE DES CARTERESSES TAVEL ROSÉ 2013, RHÔNE VALLEY, FRANCE ($18.95)
One of the best rosés I’ve tried this year, and not just a summer wine. Deep pink in colour, it has a minerally nose of pink grapefruit and strawberries with a floral note. This is a muscular, dry rosé that has enough power and concentration to stand up to meat dishes. (TA)
RED AUSTRALIA 98 K1 BY GEOFF HARDY TZIMMUKIN 2005, ADELAIDE HILLS ($62) A Shiraz/Cabernet blend. Velvety deep plum-red colour. The initial nose is of orange marmalade on toast, immediately followed by black cherry, raisin, black pepper and sweet cassis aromas. On the palate, it is full-bodied with soft tannins. Good acidity keeps the stewed fruit flavours bright and fresh. Superb. Drinking perfectly now. (RL)*
90 DOMAINE TOURNON MATHILDA SHIRAZ 2011, VICTORIA ($19.95) If your taste runs to bold, spicy reds you’ll really like this medium-bodied fruity wine from Australia’s Victoria region made by Michel Chapoutier, the great producer from the Rhône Valley. This Shiraz is deep ruby in colour with a peppery, blackberry nose and a dry herbal
flavour of smoked bacon and celery — yes, celery. Simply delicious. (TA)
90 TURKEY FLAT BUTCHERS BLOCK 2012, BAROSSA VALLEY ($30)
Elegant, ripe and beautifully balanced with supple tannins. Generous and full aromas and flavours of plum, blackberry and exotic spice. Silky texture with a long, lingering, juicy finish. A blend of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvèdre. (GB)
89 PETER LEHMANN LAYERS RED 2011, BAROSSA ($17.95)
A definite crowd-pleaser! From a cool vintage comes this GSM-plus-Tempranillo blend. Dark plum, sweet cherry, strawberry and raspberry mesh with the oak flavours of vanilla, cocoa and spice. Rather full-bodied; the texture is soft, and there is very good length. Ready to drink, preferably with boeuf bourguignon or lamb chops. (ES)
88 WESTEND ESTATE 96 POINTS SHIRAZ/VIOGNIER 2012, RIVERINA ($16.33)
Medium-deep plum red. Nose of tart cherries, spice and roasted meat. On the palate, it is peppery with lots of blackberry and cherry fruit. A European style of Shiraz, well-balanced such that the 14% alcohol does not overwhelm and the fruit does not become a “bomb.” Will keep another year or 2. (RL)*
88 PARACOMBE MALBEC 2009, ADELAIDE HILLS ($32)
Dark and intriguing with vibrant violet and mineral notes. Loads of plum, blackberry, dark cherry, earth and spice; rich, firm structure, fruit-laden tannins and bright acidity on the long finish. Wild game would work well. (GB)
87 TYRRELL’S OLD WINERY SHIRAZ 2011, SOUTHEASTERN AUSTRALIA ($19)
Bright, crisp and elegant. A restrained style of Shiraz that shows aromas and flavours of blackberry, raspberry, plum and a touch of pepper. Soft, refined tannins and a fresh finish. Quite pleasant and drinkable. (GB)
CANADA 93 DOMAINE QUEYLUS PINOT NOIR LA GRANDE RESERVE 2011, NIAGARA ($60)
Such a gorgeous and complete Pinot. Aromas of black cherry, field raspberries, toasted vanilla and nutmeg with a subtle floral note. It has beautiful concentration of redcurrants, cherry, raspberry, oak spices and pure elegance from sip to finish with depth and complexity, all delivered on a lovely bed of firm tannins. (RV)
91 DOMAINE QUEYLUS LA GRANDE RESERVE MERLOT/ CABERNET FRANC 2011, NIAGARA ($65)
The blend is 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Franc. It has a gorgeous nose of sweet tobacco, ripe cherry, cassis, graphite and vanilla oak spices. It is nicely integrated on the palate with a core of juicy fruit, bramble, spice and depth of flavour through the finish. A beauty. (RV)
90 FEATHERSTONE RED TAIL MERLOT 2012, NIAGARA ($20)
The 2012 vintage has been very kind to Featherstone. This is another solid from the winery’s red portfolio. The nose shows inviting raspberry, cherry and plum aromas with light spice. It’s lush and smooth on the palate with medium weight, showing flavours of raspberry, plums, liquorice and spice with a smooth delivery through the long finish. (RV)
90 13TH STREET CABERNET/MERLOT 2012, NIAGARA ($20)
The hot, near-perfect growing season of 2012 provided the backdrop for some very fine Bordeaux red blends in Ontario. 13th Street has done just that, and they have done it at an attractive price. The nose shows rich blackcurrants, black cherry, ripe plums, bramble-bush undertones and an array of spices. It possesses lovely texture on the palate with chewy tannins and rich, opulent fruit that’s highly extracted to go with layers of spices, a hint of liquorice and a fairly long finish. (RV) NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 59
NOTED ... 90 ROSEHALL RUN THE CERTAIN RATIO 2012, ONTARIO ($29.95)
The grapes for this Meritage were sourced from PEC and Niagara. The ratio is 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot and 21% Cabernet Franc. Full-bodied, concentrated and layered; the tobacco, dark cherry, plum, olive, spice, mocha and vanilla flavours are underpinned by loads of ripe, yet unobtrusive tannins. It should age well for the next 8 years. (ES)
90 TINHORN CREEK OLDFIELD SERIES MERLOT 2011, OKANAGAN ($30)
2011 was a cool year by Okanagan standards; as a result, the wines are less concentrated and lower in alcohol. Tinhorn’s 2009 Oldfield Merlot reached 15.3% while the 2011 is pegged at 13.9%. That translates to better balance and more finesse. The nose on this classy Merlot shows succulent red berries, blackcurrants, cassis, kirsch and sweet, savoury spices. It’s a lovely drop in the mouth with red fruits, currants and anise all nicely balanced by a healthy vein of acidity and spice. (RV)
90 COYOTE’S RUN DAVID SHEPPARD VINTAGE 30 CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE ($36.95)
This one-shot release was created to commemorate winemaker David Sheppard’s 30th harvest in the Niagara wine business. It is full-bodied and backwards, and at this early stage, plum, vanilla, spice and cassis are present. The tannins are elevated, so 2 options exist. The first, if you wish to drink now, is to pair with an extremely rare cut of beef. The second, as well as my personal preference, is to cellar for 3 years and then drink until 2025. (ES)
89 COYOTE’S RUN RED PAW VINEYARD MERLOT 2012, FOUR MILE CREEK ($24.95)
A huge bouquet of damson plum, sweet cherry, mocha and vanilla are all present in this 14.5% alcohol wine. It is ripe and concentrated with the sweet fruit on the palate meshing with a light herb60 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
al note. There is a long finish and firm tannins, so hold for 2 years and then drink until 2020. (ES)
89 HAYWIRE CANYONVIEW VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2013, OKANAGAN ($35)
Classic Pinot Noir descriptors of cherry, raspberry and cinnamon. The complex palate expresses the blend of 55% Clone 115 and 45% Clone 667, with the former imparting minerality and a bite of tannin, while the latter brings out bright red fruits and a weighty mouthfeel. Lingers with rhubarb. A match for mushroom-laden fall stews. (HH)
87 SERENDIPITY SERENATA RESERVE 2010, OKANAGAN ($40)
This Bordeaux-style blend asserts itself with aromas of floral, blueberry, cherry and a hint of eucalyptus. Plum, blackberry and black-cherry flavours follow. The rich texture is balanced by juicy acidity and lingering dry tannins on the spicy, smoky finish. Drink now and over the next 5 years. (HH)
85 SERENDIPITY RED HANDED 2010, OKANAGAN ($18)
Violets, wild berries, black pepper and toffee waft from the glass. Rhubarb, blueberry, strawberry and cherry flavours match well with the softly textured mouthfeel, juicy acidity and light tannins. The warm finish accentuates clove, vanilla and chocolate. Grab some sliders and fries. (HH)
CHILE 93 CORNELLANA BARREL RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007, CACHAPOAL VALLEY ($14.33)
Deep garnet beginning to brown, with some fine particles in suspension. Clean, fully developed nose of cassis, blueberry jam, lilac and coffee. Surprisingly high alcohol (14.5%) is tamed by juicy blackcurrant and blueberry fruit in lovely balance with fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Long finish. Drink now. Great value. (RL)*
88 SANTA DIGNA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, COURICO ($14.95)
Santa Digna is the name of Miguel Torres’ winery in Chile. Here they make a Cabernet Sauvignon more in Bordeaux style than New World. This claret-like wine is dense purple in colour with a cedary, savoury, earthy, blackcurrant nose. The wine has a soft mouthfeel; it’s medium-bodied and well balanced with chalky tannins. Good value. Try it with lamb dishes. (TA)
FRANCE 90 DOMAINE LA FOURMONE LE FAUQUET GIGONDAS 2011, RHÔNE ($28.95)
Dense purple colour with a blackberry nose tinged with savoury herbal notes, this Village Côtes-du-Rhône has richly extracted sweet black-fruit flavours with an iodine note. Firmly structured with a spicy liquorice finish. (TA)
88 PIERRE ANDRÉ 2011, CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES AC ($34.99)
Shows enticing developed strawberry, raspberry and subtle spicy oak on the nose. Flavours lean more towards dark cherry with brisk acidity and a lightly firm tannic grip. Will benefit from another year or 2 in the cellar. (SW)
87 LOUIS JADOT PINOT NOIR 2012, BURGUNDY ($23)
Pale ruby. Typical Burgundian nose of small red fruits, earthy notes and a touch spicy. Its main quality on the palate is its freshness, accompanied by a light fruity flavour and tannins that are barely firm. Finish is clean. Ready to drink on everyday dishes; hamburger or charcuteries. (GBQc)
87 SAINT COSME CÔTESDU-RHÔNE 2012, RHÔNE VALLEY ($23)
Very pleasant and full of personality with concentrated flavours of blackcurrant, black cherry and plum, meaty smoked bacon, spice and earth; fine tannins and a fresh, elegant finish. Perfect with cassoulet or earthy mushroom dishes. (GB)
Shows dark berry fruit with peppery spice on the nose and thickly textured blackberry on the palate, supported by firm tannic structure and balanced acidity. Old-style solid winemaking. (SW)
pepper. Medium-bodied, it has fresh-tasting blackberry and cherry fruit with smoke and spice from the oak aging. This is indeed Lady-like, with gentle alcohol and acidity, and soft tannins. Drinking well now and for another year or 2. Good value. (RL)*
GREECE
90 WARWICK RED LADY CAPE BLEND 2011 ($13.67)
86 CRISTIA VENTOUX 2012, VENTOUX AC ($14.99)
91 DOMAINE GEROVASSILIOU AVATON 2011, EPANOMI ($44.95) This intriguing, indigenous blend of Limnio, Mavroudi and Mavrotragano is a big wine full of plum, smoke, violets, cherry jam, earth and mocha aromas. The palate is quite punchy with lots of tannin enveloping the raisin, red and dark fruit flavours. Excellent length and a decade of life ahead. (ES)
ITALY 94 ANTINORI SOLAIA 2008, TUSCANY ($248)
Very dark, almost opaque. Opulent nose. Complex red and black fruit notes, luxurious oak, deep. Thick and concentrated on the palate, very soft and chewy but still-firm tannins. Rich flavour, great balance from start to the very long finish. A great wine with a great future. (GBQc)
92 DONNAFUGATA MILLE E UNA NOTTE 2007, CONTESSA ENTELLINA, SICILY ($75) Nero d’Avola at its best! Dark ruby. Rich nose of blackberry and other small black fruits, a touch of green pepper and eucalyptus; pastry notes from the oak. Full-bodied. Lots of fruity extract, firm — even a little bit rough — tannins that will soften over time. Finish is firm. (GBQc)
SOUTH AFRICA 90 WARWICK THE FIRST LADY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012 ($13.67)
Clear medium-deep plum red. Nose of cassis seasoned with a bit of green
Mostly Syrah with a good chunk of Pinotage and some Cabernet Sauvignon. Clear, medium-deep plum red. Aromas of blueberries, cherry, smoke, leather and black pepper. On the palate, there is mostly cherry fruit and some vanilla from oak aging, supported on a strong framework of acidity, alcohol and smooth tannins. Ready to drink. (RL)*
89 KLEINE ZALZE VINEYARD SELECTION SHIRAZ 2010, STELLENBOSCH ($20.99)
Intense dark colour mirrors the concentrated character of this stylish South African Shiraz. Dark ripe berry-fruit shows peppery spice and refined oak influence on the nose with rich dark fruit, thickly textured tannins and dark chocolate in the mouth. Robust flavours call for spicy grilled red meats. (SW)
85 WARWICK OLD BUSH VINES PINOTAGE 2012, STELLENBOSCH ($17.33)
Clear medium-deep plum red. The nose is clearly Pinotage, pungent with a candy coating over a base of plums, strawberries and blackberries. Light-bodied but packed with juicy berries accented with leather and menthol. Prominent alcohol and acidity with smooth tannins and a short finish. Needs 1 more year. Pinotage enthusiasts might give this a higher rating. (RL)*
SPAIN 89 MONTEBUENA RIOJA CUVÉE KPF 2012 ($15)
Rioja reds are hot right now; this is a nice place to start your love affair with Spanish Tempranillos. It has a bold and fruity nose of blueberry, cherry,
kirsch and spice. On the palate, look for wild berries, cherries, currants and raspberries with light spice notes and decent structure. Could cellar for a couple of years. (RV)
89 DESCENDIENTES DE J PALACIOS PETALOS 2011, BIERZO, GALICIA ($24)
Dark ruby. Intense nose of ripe black berries, cassis, vanilla and earthy notes. Full-bodied, energetic acidity and great fruity taste. A slightly coarse tannic backbone brings more body to the middle palate. The native Mencia grape gives original wines that are increasingly popular. This one should peak in a couple of years. (GBQc)
88 BODEGAS PIQUERAS TERRA GRANDE BARREL-AGED SYRAH 2010, ALMANSA DO ($13.99)
Nose reveals somewhat complex, fleshy developed fruit with subtle cinnamon, peppery and oaky overtones. Generous dark-berry flavours, solid tannic grip and a light splash of chocolate lead into a well-integrated, very dry finish. (SW)
UNITED STATES 89 CHATEAU ST JEAN PINOT NOIR 2012, CALIFORNIA ($18.99) Attractive scents of strawberry, cherry and vanilla-accented spice open the way for red cherry and raspberry on the palate with well-balanced acidity and a light splash of dry chocolate on the finish. Fine value. (SW)
89 DON SEBASTIANI & SONS THE CRUSHER PETITE SIRAH 2012, CLARKSBURG, CALIFORNIA ($19.50)
This harmoniously balanced example shows why Petite Sirah is making a bit of a comeback. Developed red berry, cherry and cinnamon on the nose lead the way for equally attractive red and dark fruit wrapped in velvety texture, backed by solid tannic structure and a light splash of dark chocolate on the palate. Very easy to like, especially at this price. (SW) NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 61
89 BOGLE VINEYARDS MERLOT 2012, CALIFORNIA ($22.29)
Enticing bouquet reveals scents of plum, blackcurrant, cinnamon, clove and a pinch of herb. Blackberry and ripe dark plum take over in the mouth backed by velvety tannic structure and a touch of dark chocolate. (SW)
89 FRANCIS COPPOLA DIAMOND COLLECTION BLACK LABEL CLARET (1910 TYPE CABERNET SAUVIGNON) 2012 ($42) Aged 15 months in French oak, this traditional Bordeaux blend is still a little shy on the nose but shows deeply concentrated dark fruit with solid structure and evolving balance. Needs 3 to 5 more years in the cellar. Perfect with game meats, prepared simply. (SW)
88 JOEL GOTT MERLOT/ CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, WASHINGTON ($25)
Typical of Joel Gott’s wines, this is approachable with a pleasing drinkability without being dumbed down. Shows aromas and flavours of ripe cherry, blackcurrant, raspberry and blackberry with well-integrated soft tannins, a rich mouthfeel and a fresh, juicy finish. (GB)
88 MEADOWCROFT SYRAH 2013, CALIFORNIA ($25)
Dark aromas and flavours of blackcurrant, blackberry and plum with a silky palate, soft lush tannins, a fresh tartness and just a bit of meat, earth and spice on the lifted finish. Perfect with meat off the grill. (GB)
DESSERT ROSEHALL RUN THE FINISHER LIQUOREUX 2013, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($17.95/375 ML) This playfully named dessert wine is a blend of 85% Ehrenfelser and 15% Muscat. With 70g/L of sugar (think Auslese), fresh acid and a profile of peach, honey, white flowers and spice, this is a perfect foil for foie gras or fresh-fruit custard desserts topped with an apricot glaze. (ES) 62 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
SPIRITS CITADELLE GIN RÉSERVE 2013, FRANCE ($39.99)
Derives its striking goldenrod colour from several months aging in cognac casks, followed by further time in casks used for Pineau des Charentes. Cask aging, together with the infusion of some 22 botanicals, produces astonishingly delicate fragrance and complexity. Floral, spicy, fruity and beautifully integrated cask flavours, together with more characteristic juniper notes, come wrapped in a harmoniously smooth, creamy texture. (SW)
UNGAVA CANADIAN PREMIUM GIN, CANADA ($34.99)
This remarkable gin is made using rare botanicals from the Canadian North. The vivid aromatics are unfamiliar and therefore difficult to describe, but are strikingly fresh and fragrant, with attractive herbal and delicate fruity character. Very smooth and slightly viscous on the palate; flavours are similarly elusive but quite delicious, finishing with an agreeable touch of alcoholic heat. (SW)
TORONTO DISTILLERY CO. ORGANIC ONTARIO SOFT WHITE WINTER WHEAT (BATCH #2, 2013 HARVEST) ($40)
Did you know that distilling has come back to the heart of Toronto? This unaged white whiskey has tons of clean malt and flowery notes on the nose but it’s on the palate that it falls a bit short. The smallest amount of residual sugar remains. Going down, it is a bit green with pepper and citrus notes. The finish is a bit more bitter than I’d like. Overall, it’s worth picking up as a mixer. Espcially with all the new moonshine drink recipes online now. (JS)
BEER CARIB BREWERY MACKESON XXX STOUT, TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO ($13/6-PK)
This milk chocolate-tasting brew sets
the bar for milk stouts worldwide. It is a stunner of a beer: a full-bodied stout sweetened with lactose and caramel, it has the creaminess and airy bubbles of an ice cream float with milk-chocolate notes that fade into a drier, dark chocolate finish. So yummy! (CL)
PROPELLER BREWING CO. PROPELLER ESB (EXTRA SPECIAL BITTER), NOVA SCOTIA ($13/6-PK)
Having taken home 3 gold medals at the World Beer Awards, this supremely mellow brew is a great starter craft brew. If you haven’t tried this Halifax brewery’s spectacularly smooth, caramel and nutty English bitter with a dry, earthy finish, do it. Now. Great with fish and chips, pizzas and Indian curries. (CL)
LES TROIS MOUSQUETAIRES PORTER BALTIQUE 2014, QUEBEC ($9.95/750 ML) Pop the cork on this Champagne-style bottle and share this Baltic (indicating high-alcohol) Porter with friends to take off the autumn chill. This malt-forward brew has ruminating aromas of chocolate, liquorice and dates, with flavours of milk chocolate, vanilla, coffee and dark fruit with a smoky undertone — a great match for sharp blue cheese. (CL)
LE CASTOR/PIT CARIBOU 30 CENTS BLACK IPA, QUEBEC ($4.99/660 ML)
Like having a pine tree in a bottle. Citrus and resin on the nose with a hefty wollop of toasted malt and chocolate. Very well balanced with a chocolate espresso tinge on the palate. The finish is smooth with a piney hop bite in the back. Sorry to be clichéd buthave with some spicy Indian or Thai curries. (JS)
LE CASTOR CITRA WEISSE, QUEBEC ($4.99/660 ML)
Airy and fresh on the nose. Banana, cloves, candy and lemon dominate in the glass. On the palate, the bitterness is present but it is mellow leading to citrus, cloves and notes of Indian spices. The short acidity will allow it to match well with most dishes. Try with some roasted vegetables and a nice bloody steak. (JS)
WELL NOTED ... 88 STRATUS KABANG RED 2011, NIAGARA ($20)
92 PAINTED ROCK SYRAH 2011, OKANAGAN ($40)
Effusive aromatics with a charge of pervasive violets as well as black cherry, blackberry and a hint of bacon. A very elegant, sexy wine that has caressing satiny tannins and seductive blueberry, black cherry and rich mocha flavours. Long finish redolent with violets and cracked black pepper. Enjoy with braised red meats. (HH)
Kabang Red, featuring a cartoonish label that depicts a man with a cigar in his mouth that has just exploded, combines Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. It promises fun but really delivers a serious red wine with a nose of savoury dark fruits, bramble and meaty-earthy notes all slathered in peppery spices and cedar. It’s firm and structured on the palate with smoky blackberry and currant fruits to go with cracked peppercorns, minty spices and tannic grip through the finish. (RV)
89 TANTALUS ROSÉ 2013, OKANAGAN ($22)
A bright pink-coloured blend of 60% Pinot Meunier and 40% Pinot Noir grapes. Intensely fragrant scents of roses, pomegranate, red apple and Bing cherry. Refreshing acidity supports vibrant flavours of raspberry, plum and açai berries. Finishes dry with lithe tannins and compelling vanilla spice. Delicious with burgers. (HH)
90 KTIMA TSELEPOS AMALIA BRUT, ARCADIA IGP, GREECE ($25.95) SEA CIDER RUMRUNNER, VANCOUVER ISLAND, BC ($16/500 ML)
91 BOGLE VINEYARDS PHANTOM 2010, CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES ($33.49)
A blend of Old Vine Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Old Vine Mourvèdre, this is a powerful, concentrated and complex wine. Developed, perfumed fruit, oak and subtle spice on the nose lead into richly rounded ripe fruit, harmoniously integrated with oak and spice supported by firm tannic structure. Drinking very well now but has lots of life ahead. (SW)
A perfect blend of cider apples are aged in rum-soaked bourbon barrels for at least half a year. This certified organic cider is a thing of beautiful complexity with aromas of rum and black pepper. It tastes like a baked-apple crumble soaked in rum with notes of butterscotch, with a lightly acidic apple tang, a silky mouthfeel and warming heat. A great one for rum lovers; try it with black peppercorn steak or a Moroccan tagine. (CL)
This 100% Moschofilero, traditional-method sparkling wine is my favourite Greek bubbly. It totally flatters with peach, honey, white flowers and spice qualities that become enveloped by the small pinpoint bubbles. It is dry with a long finish and is an absolute delight with any appetizer course or celebration. (ES)
89 VILLA PONCIAGO BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES 2012, BEAUJOLAIS, FRANCE ($15.30)
Beaujolais is one of the most versatile wines when it comes to food matching. Serve it at room temperature with meat dishes; chill it and its freshness can complement fish. This well-made village wine is light ruby in colour with a nose of spicy cherries. On the palate, it’s light and fruity with flavours of cherry and strawberry, finishing dry and crisp. (TA)
NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 63
DAVINE BY GURVINDER BHATIA ...
Cake and Critters
At a recent tasting of some wines rang I was astonished to overhear someone great, but there’s still a place in the wo ic, mass-produced wines too.” I walked and said, quite emphatically, “No, ther The reality is that there is a sea of homogeneity crowding the shelves of liquor stores, which has been manufactured by marketing and accounting departments as opposed to winemakers. Much of this “wine” is little more than alcoholic grape juice with added sugar — essentially wine pop (coca-cola wines) — and the majority of it all tastes the same. Wine is not supposed to all taste the same. It is an agricultural product and it should reflect the soils and microclimates where the grapes are grown. It should have a sense of place. Different grape varieties have different taste profiles. The beauty of wine is its diversity, and you can taste the difference. There is so much good wine being produced in the world; there is no excuse to settle for mediocrity, even in the lower price points. The producers of bulk brands take advantage of consumers intimidated by the huge quantity of wines available. They focus on kitschy packaging and splashy ad campaigns. Consumers see the trendy labels, recognize the names and think that for the price, they can’t get anything better. The common misconception is that you have to spend a lot for quality. This couldn’t be further from the truth. Don’t buy wine based on an eye-catching label ... the focus should be on the quality of what’s in the bottle. (Helpful hint: avoid wines named after desserts or with critters on the label). The ironic part is that we are supporting producers who have little concern for their customers. These producers, along with many importers, retailers, restaurateurs and liquor-board buyers, support mediocrity because it’s easy. It’s easy to buy and sell well-known commercial brands. It’s 64 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
easy to buy the popular flavour of the month. But popularity doesn’t necessarily, and often doesn’t, equate to quality. I am amazed and disappointed at the number of hoteliers and restaurateurs who select their wines regardless of the quality. They are buying based on commercial popularity or an agent’s promotional budget. Can you imagine if they purchased their meat and produce using the same philosophy? It wouldn’t happen. Even more disappointing is the hypocrisy of restaurateurs who profess to support local farmers, growers and sustainable food producers, yet fill their wine lists with generic, mass-produced swill with no veracity or sense of place. Wineries producing quality and value may not be as well known in many instances, but any real wine store will be happy to help you discover the gold beyond the glitter with respect to great-quality, inexpensive wines. They’re not that hard to find, and you’re benefiting yourself by seeking them out. Although it’s obvious, it needs to be said ... supporting mediocrity perpetuates mediocrity, but supporting quality ensures the existence and sustainability of quality (whether wine, food or anything else). It’s time we resolve to drink better, which doesn’t have to mean more expensive. It’s time we stop making excuses for mediocrity. The following are great examples of wines with a sense of place, at excellent price points. Keep in mind that restaurateurs and hoteliers (regardless of home province) are able to purchase these wines at significantly less than the Alberta retail prices listed. There really is no excuse to drink or serve shitty wine.
NAVARRO LÓPEZ, VALDEPEÑAS, SPAIN
The Old Vines Tempranillo “Pergolas” from Navarro López may be one of the best-value wines in the world. Dark berry, plum, earth and soft tannins with a touch of acidity on the finish that pairs with a variety of food and is immensely drinkable. Quite the deal for $14. The winery also makes a killer Garnacha for $15.
EMILIANA ADOBE, CHILE
Emiliana’s Adobe line of wines may be entry-level, but they are created to reflect their region with organically grown grapes. While many give lip service to sustainability, Emiliana walks the talk. Great quality and value for $14.
ging from $14 to $150, e say, “These wines are orld for all those generd over to the person re isn’t.” KEN FORRESTER, SOUTH AFRICA
One of the world’s most ardent advocates for Chenin Blanc. Forrester’s Petit line consists of great-quality entry-level wines that have great varietal character, sense of place and drinkability. The Petit Chenin Blanc has crunchy apple and citrus with a fresh finish, while the Petit Cabernet/Merlot possesses aromas and flavours of ripe berries, a touch of spice, soft tannins and a lifted finish. Great values for under $15.
FABIANO, VENETO, ITALY
It’s quite amazing that as Nicola Fabiano grows his winery, the quality actually gets better. Fabiano has always possessed the philosophy that he wants to make great-quality wines that people can afford to drink every day. His Soave, Valpolicella and Pinot Grigio (all $15 and under) are easily the best entry-level wines in this category available on the market.
DON RODOLFO, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA
It’s official. Malbec has become the Aussie Shiraz of 2014. So many of the generic, one-dimensional Malbecs being exported are in no way representative of the tremendous quality and diversity being produced in Argentina. Even Malbec exists in so many different flavour profiles and styles depending on the vineyard sites in which the grapes are grown. But beyond Malbec, you will be doing yourself a favour by experiencing wines like Don Rodolfo’s fresh and perfumed Torrontés, and bold, ripe and juicy Tannat ($16).
Francisco Navarro Lopez
DE ANGELIS, MARCHE, ITALY
Often I’m asked what the next hot wine region, where you can get great-quality wines for great prices, is. For years, my answer has been Italy’s Le Marche. Although the region and its wines have received greater notoriety, there are some amazing values waiting to be discovered. The De Angelis winery is producing amazing quality at almost inconceivably inexpensive prices. The Rosso Piceno (blend of Montepulciano and Sangiovese) is fresh, dark, ripe, meaty and smoky while the Chardonnay is somewhat tropical with great freshness and bright acidity. Killer wines for $16-ish.
AVELEDA, PORTUGAL
Wines have been produced in Portugal for centuries, but the world is still discovering the great values from this country best known for port. Still family-owned, Aveleda has been producing wines for over a century. The Casal Garcia Vinho Verde is fresh and quaffable while the Charamba Douro shows red berries and spice with great character. Remarkable wines for $12. × NOVEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 65
AFTER TASTE BY TONY ASPLER ...
Chardonnay Show and Tell I4C IS THE BEST THING THAT’S HAPPENED TO THE CANADIAN WINE INDUSTRY SINCE THE INTRODUCTION OF THE VQA APPELLATION SYSTEM IN 1988. The cryptic
name is a punning acronym for the International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration. First mounted in 2011, this Ontario-based annual event in July invites producers of Chardonnay from around the world to show off their best products over three days at a variety of events and meals. This year’s i4c, entitled “The Rebirth of Cool,” attracted winemakers from Argentina, Australia (including Tasmania), Burgundy, California, Chile, Oregon, New Zealand, South Africa and Spain, as well as British Columbia’s Blue Mountain, Sperling Vineyards, Tantalus and Tinhorn Creek. Half of the participating wineries were from Niagara and Prince Edward County — 24 in all. Strangely, there was no representation of Chardonnay from Lake Erie North Shore. The event opened with a keynote address by British wine writer Tim Atkin, MW. His theme: as the fifth-most widely planted variety on the planet, at around half a million acres, “Chardonnay is a victim of its ubiquity and a victim of its adaptability.” Three panel discussions followed. The first panel discussion, “Techno vs Tech-no,” addressed what winemakers use in the cellar to make their wines. Ron Giesbrecht of Niagara College, and formerly the winemaker at Henry of Pelham, illustrated techniques that can be used to enhance wine by preparing four glasses of the same 2013 Chardonnay using different treatments. The first glass had nothing added — stainless-steel fermentation and no malolactic (the least appreciated by the audience). The second glass had gum arabic added to enhance mouthfeel and to stabilize tartrates (the favourite of most of the hall). The third had three different types of oak chips from French barrels added at different temperatures. The fourth had tannin added. Giesbrecht once described Chardonnay as “the chicken of the vineyard,” meaning that, unlike Riesling, it’s a variety that is shaped by the winemaker. If you gave a chicken to 10 different chefs, they would produce 10 different dishes. 66 × @QUENCH_MAG × NOVEMBER 2014
The second session, called “Yield and Context,” dealt with crop sizes and the fact that low yields don’t necessarily make better wines. Jim Willwerth of CCOVI got the biggest laugh of the morning when he posited the idea that if you subscribe to the theory that lower yields make better wines, then a zero yield should make the best wine. The third session, called “The Living Vine: The Viticultural Continuum,” got into the contentious subject of organic and biodynamic growing. John Szabo, MS, who moderated the discussion, cited the case of a Burgundian winemaker who refused to spray his vines. When a fatal vine disease called flavescence dorée was discovered near Beaune in June of last year, the local prefecture decreed that all vineyards in the region must be sprayed. Emmanuel Giboulot, a biodynamic wine grower since 1970, refused. The debate came down to individual rights and group responsibility. Giboulot was subsequently fined 500 euros for putting his neighbours’ vines at risk. In the evening, participants gathered at 13th Street Winery in St Catharines for a barrel-top tasting and pig-roast dinner complete with a rock band. The next day there were lunch tastings at various wineries culminating in the evening with “The Cool Chardonnay World Tour Al Fresco Feast” at Vineland Research and Innovation Centre. By this time, I had tasted and re-tasted over two days more than 100 Chardonnays from around the world and was ready to bite my wrist for some red wine. But it was a highly instructive experience because it put Canadian Chardonnay in a global context. And I’m here to tell you that our Chardonnays can stand against rest of the world without a blush. × ILLUSTRATION: FRANCESCO GALLÉ, WWW.FRANCESCOGALLE.COM
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