Quench October 2015

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QUENCH MAGAZINE OCTOBER 2015 VAN ISLAND × 20 BC’S NEW HOT SPOT. BY TIM PAWSEY THE BEST × 23 FINDING THE BEST THING TO GROW IN THE DEPTHS OF BRITISH COLUMBIA. BY RICK VANSICKLE MEANING OF COOL × 26 WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO BE COOL CLIMATE?

BY MICHAEL PINKUS IN SYNC × 29 NOT SOLD ON THE WINES OF GERMANY? HERE ARE 5 MYTHS WE SMASH. BY SILVANA LAU RABBIT LOVE × 32 IT STARTED WITH TWO. THEN IT OVERRAN A COUNTRY. BY DUNCAN HOLMES

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MAVERICK CHEFS 2015 × 35 WE CHOOSE THE TOP CHEFS INNOVATING IN THE KITCHEN AND BEYOND. BY LISA HOEKSTRA BLENDING IN × 44 SEE HOW YOUR FAVOURITE BOTTLE OF BOOZE GETS BLENDED TO PERFECTION. BY TOD STEWART

44 DEPARTMENTS A HACK IN THE KITCHEN × 48 CULINARY CONCOCTIONS HACKED IN MY KITCHEN. BY NANCY JOHNSON CHARRED × 50 MAVERICK CHEF NICK NUTTING BRINGS THE OCEAN ALIVE WITH THIS SQUID RECIPE. NOTED × 51 EXPERTLY-TASTED BUYING GUIDE FOR WINES, BEERS, CIDERS AND SPIRITS FROM AROUND THE WORLD.

GRAPES YOU SHOULD KNOW, IF YOU DON’T ALREADY × 64 FORGET ABOUT CHARD AND CAB SAUV.

BY GURVINDER BHATIA RISING WITH THE TIDE × 66 NOVA SCOTIA’S NEW TIDAL BAY APPELATION TRIES TO DEFINE A REGION. BY TONY ASPLER

OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 3

@quench_mag Follow, like and connect with us online.

OUR SECOND BOOK, QUENCH COOKS THINGS WITH WINGS, IS NOW AVAILABLE AT THE KOBO STORE. You can

get both books in this series for FREE at books.quench.me.

You can also search for the ebooks in the Kindle or iTunes store.

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I just read the article “Being Balanced” by Lisa Hoekstra in your May/June [2015] issue, and as a Sommelier, you don’t often see as much information about acidity in wines being published... kudos on a great article and addressing a topic that is equally important as tannin in wines when everybody wants to know what goes into a balanced tasting of wines.

These major components are, of course, part of what every winemaker tries to orchestrate in producing as good a wine as the soil, grapes and climate will give you each vintage.

Brian Preston, Portland, Ontario I am a huge smoked meat fan, so you can only imagine that I was salivating over Duncan Holmes’s smoked meat recipes [Where There’s Smoke; September 2015]. The smoked black cod with hoisin and ginger sauces is now one of my go-to recipes. Also, I’m definitely going to have to plan a trip to Spain to check out those museums.

André Martin, email

join us in the conversation

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for recent back issues: back.quench.me

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IT’S NOT THAT DIFFICULT TO MAKE A CHANGE. SOMETIMES THE SMALL THINGS WE DO CAN AWAKE A MOVEMENT. If there is one thing I know about

the readers of Quench, it’s that, if we decide to, we can move the needle.

Think back on your life. How many times have you found an interesting spot and told all your friends? What about a bottle you discovered by chance that then made

4 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

the rounds? A new store you championed? Think back. There have been hundreds, if not thousands, of items you’ve advocated. You, my friend, are an early adopter.

That’s not just fancy marketing speak. I’ve met enough Quench readers to know you don’t take your passions lightly. You scour your neighbourhoods, if not the world, looking for new and exciting things to taste and savour.

You delight in the exotic and push away the ordinary.

This year’s batch of Maverick Chefs do much the same. Honestly, I can’t remember one of the Mavs from the last 11 years that can’t be placed in the same boat as you. That’s just how they are. Pushing the envelope (or in most cases, not even realizing an envelope exists). That is what Quench is.

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CONTRIBUTORS Ron started drinking wine as a University student in 1968. A cheap Spanish red called “Yago” was his entry into the wine world. He has since toured, and led tours of, vineyards in France, Portugal, Spain, Italy, Morocco, Argentina, Chile, Australia and the United States, as well as Canada. He is a past-Maitre of the Commanderie de Bordeaux and a Certified French Wine Scholar, but his palate is open to any wine from anywhere.

Food editor, Nancy Johnson, logged 30 years in the music industry before segueing into writing about food, wine and life. She never turns down a glass of Châteauneuf-duPape. Or any other wine for that matter.

A self-proclaimed bookworm (and proud of it), Lisa Hoekstra has transformed her love of reading into a freelance writing career that spans an eclectic range of topics, from geriatric care management to aromatherapy. Her passion for discovering new things has helped her in her role as the editorial lead for our new iPad app, Q School by Quench Magazine. Look for it in the App Store.

www.quench.me Editor-in-chief

Aldo Parise editor@quench.me WINE EDITOR

Gurvinder Bhatia gbhatia@quench.me

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Nancy Johnson njohnson@quench.me Associate Editor

Rosemary Mantini rmantini@quench.me

Tasters

Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Crystal Luxmore, Tim Pawsey, Jonathan Smithe, Sarah Parniak

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À LA CARTE Q SCHOOL × 10 5 TASTY USES FOR YOUR LEFTOVER PUMPKIN SEEDS. GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON × 13 MAKING THE PERFECT PIE CRUST. UMAMI BY KATIA JEAN PAUL × 14 THE EXPERIMENTS OF CHEF TUNDE WEY. NEXT STOP × 15 THE YOUTHFUL INDULGENCE OTHERWISE KNOWN AS CANDY IS ALL GROWN UP. FEED BY TOM DE LARZAC × 16 STARTING THE DAY OFF RIGHT. LAZY MIXOLOGIST

BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO × 18 MIXING IT UP WITH POMMEAU. BON VIVANT BY PETER ROCKWELL × 19 I’VE READ THAT IN MANY TASTINGS, CHEAP WINE SCORES HIGHER THAN THE GOOD STUFF. HOW IS THAT POSSIBLE?

OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 9

Q SCHOOL

Picking seeds

ROASTING PUMPKIN SEEDS

IT’S OCTOBER AND THAT MEANS PICKING OUT PUMPKINS in preparation for the dual-holiday season of Thanks-

giving and Halloween, both of which have a tendency to leave behind pumpkin seeds by the handful. Instead of tossing them in the compost, try making delicious snacks — here are a few ideas to get you started.

USING PUMPKIN SEEDS

While the seeds alone make a nutritious and delicious snack, you can use pepitas (the Spanish term for pumpkin seeds) in a variety of other ways to add a bit of pumpkin-y goodness to your day. #1 AS A GARNISH Soups, salads, cheese, bread — the options are endless and the garnish delicious. #2 AS AN ADDITION Throw pepitas in granola or your favourite trail mix to get a new flavour dimension. Or, if you’re feeling adventurous, include a cup in your muffin mix, cookie batter or even biscotti recipe. #3 AS A CANDY Bake up some spiced pumpkin seed brittle (recipe to follow) or encase the pepitas in sugar and honey. #4 AS A SPREAD Purée pepitas to make pesto, pumpkin seed butter or even hummus for a delicious new spread. #5 AS A MEAT ALTERNATIVE Pepitas are rich in protein, potassium, fibre and iron, so they’re an excellent meat alternative. Cook up some pumpkin-seed burgers or try out a pepita-based pâté.

10 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

The following recipe is the basics. Experiment to create different flavours, from barbecue to smoky chipotle and more — add your spices to the olive oil prior to tossing with the seeds.

2 cups raw seeds, cleaned 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Bring to a boil a medium pot of water. Add seeds, lower

heat and boil gently for 10 minutes. Drain well and pat dry with paper towel.

3. In a medium bowl, add seeds and olive oil. Toss until seeds are coated.

4. Spread seeds in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet; bake, stirring occasionally, until puffed, crisp and browned, about 10 to 12 minutes.

SPICED PUMPKIN SEED BRITTLE

3 1 1/2 1 1/4 1/4 1/2 1 1/2

tbsp butter cup sugar cup honey tsp cinnamon tsp nutmeg tsp cardamom or ginger tsp salt cup pumpkin seeds, raw and hulled tsp baking soda

1. Melt butter in a saucepan over low heat. Add sugar, honey, spices and salt, stirring until the sugar dissolves.

2. Raise heat to medium and bring to a boil. When it reaches 280°F on a candy thermometer, add pumpkin seeds. Bring the mixture up to 300°F. 3. Remove from heat and stir in baking soda.

4. Pour onto a greased cookie sheet, flatten and let cool. ×

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GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON

PERFECT CRUST

WITH THE HOLIDAYS COMING UP, IT’S TIME TO BAKE A PUMPKIN PIE OR TWO. But first, let’s talk about the pie crust.

I learned to make a crust at Toronto’s George Brown College.

Prior to that, my pie crusts were a dismal failure. I’m not quite sure why the school’s recipe works, but it does. That said, the recipe makes six crusts, which you may or may not need. They can, however, be rolled out, wrapped well and frozen.

Another caveat regarding this recipe — it’s in grams because I never once used measuring cups or spoons in my four-and-ahalf years at George Brown. I learned to cook and bake using a scale, a crucial component in turning out the perfect pie crust.

If this whole operation seems too time consuming and fussy, trust me, I understand — just pick up one of the fabulous refrigerated pie crusts readily available in the supermarket’s dairy case. Then make the yummy pumpkin pie recipe that follows.

But if you’d like to give it a go, here it is:

GEORGE BROWN COLLEGE PIE CRUST 750 g pastry flour, sifted 500 g shortening 250 ml cold water

15 g salt 30 g brown sugar 1. Place flour and shortening in a bowl and rub with fingers until reduced to irregular pea-sized crumbs. Pretend you’re Uncle Scrooge McDuck rubbing coins between your fingers, letting them drop into the bowl before scooping up more.

2. In a small bowl, dissolve salt and sugar in very cold water.

Add to flour mixture all at once. Using a mixer, mix on low speed just enough to incorporate. Do not overmix.

3. Transfer dough to floured board or table, shape into a thick roll and allow to rest a few minutes before rolling.

4. To roll, divide dough into 6 pieces. Roll each piece to size and shape of pie plate. Use immediately or freeze up to 3 months.

× Search through our huge library of recipes on quench.me/recipes/

CLASSIC PUMPKIN PIE SERVES 6

1 3/4

1 1/2 1/2 1/2

3 2/3 1/2

can pumpkin cup sugar tsp cinnamon tsp salt tsp ground ginger tsp ground nutmeg eggs cup evaporated milk cup milk Unbaked pastry for single-crust pie

1. Preheat oven to 375˚F. 2. In large bowl combine pumpkin, sugar, cinna-

mon, salt, ginger and nutmeg. Lightly beat each egg into mixture with a fork.

3. Add the evaporated milk and milk, mixing well.

Pour into unbaked pie shell. Cover edge of crust with foil.

4. Bake 25 minutes, remove foil and bake 25 to 30 minutes longer. To test, insert a knife into pie. If it comes out clean, the pie is done. Cool before serving. ×

OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 13

UMAMI BY KATIA JEAN PAUL

From Lagos with love

MOUTHFEEL, CONSISTENCY, TERROIR: Tunde Wey

believes the plethora of nouveau terms and buzzwords that have come to describe modern cuisine are, well, a buzzkill. “People are no longer enjoying food. They enjoy the idea of food.”

Growing up in Lagos, Nigeria, food, he contends, was described with simplicity. “When you take ebà [cassava flour, hot water and palm oil], scoop up some egusi [a savoury stew made from the ground seeds of melons from Nigeria] with ebà and put it in your mouth, it’s one flavour. Everything has come together to form this one thing. You can’t distinguish one thing from the other when it’s done well. And I think maybe that’s my problem with these words and these abstractions,” he says. “I certainly understand it” — “it” being the intellectualization of food, which Wey chalks up to the multifaceted nature of modern gastronomy — “but I condone it less than most people do,” he admits.

The self-taught chef would like to push for a more holistic, conscious approach to dining. Lagos, Wey’s contemporary Nigerian eatery at posh food hall St Roch Market in New Orleans, offers unfussy, uncomplicated West African fare in “hearty,” “sloppy,” “spicy,” “greasy” and “f***ing delicious” spoonfuls.

Wey’s journey to culinary success, however, was not as straightforward as his dishes.

First came Revolver, an experimental restaurant of revolving chefs and menus, which he opened with friend Peter Dalinowski in 2013 in Hamtramck, Detroit, the city he moved to from Nigeria at age 16. Seeking a more creative outlet, Wey then taught himself to cook his mother’s and his aunt’s recipes. Many a YouTube tutorial later, he launched the first of four monthly pop-up dinners in Mexicantown, Southwest Detroit.

“Sometimes, the food got worse before it got better,” he concedes, though the overall concept was well received. After

14 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

hosting as many as 100 hungry diners at a time, Wey challenged himself creatively with a small, intimate party of 12.

Emboldened by the experience, Wey, who had since left Revolver, travelled to New Orleans to visit a friend — and try his hand at cooking for pay. And so Lagos: Nigerian BBQ, a traveling dinner series, was born. Wey’s casual Nigerian culinary affair has since travelled to eight cities, including Washington, DC, Philadelphia and New York City.

“The preponderance of Nigerian restaurants caters to Nigerians. I think there hasn’t been a conscious, intentional effort to mainstream Nigerian cuisine, having it at least be part of the vocabulary of ethnic food in the country,” says Wey. Approached by St Roch Market in January, he has since put down roots in New Orleans where he now has a kitchen to call his own — and experiment in, unbridled. “I personally don’t follow recipes and try to cook more intuitively, adjusting flavour as I go.”

So how does Wey’s West African cuisine differ from that of his brethren?

“My voice is more contemporary, more reflective of my experiences of somebody born in Nigeria who grew up there but also grew up here [the United States], who’s trying to create a space in this country where I can be Nigerian and comfortable while still being accessible to people. Opening a kitchen in New Orleans seems to have fine-tuned my mission, which is to mainstream Nigerian cuisine without making it pedestrian.”

Future plans include a stand-alone brick-and-mortar Lagos and more pop-up dinners across the Unites States and farther afield. Nigerian fusion: not so much. “My philosophy is always being refined,” says Wey. “Who knows, maybe I’ll go to culinary school and do some African fusion stuff, but I hope that never happens! ×

NEXT STOP

The sweet spot

Prosecco-infused gummy bears, absinthe-flavoured lollipops, beer brittles: judging by candy makers’ spirituous gourmet offerings from Montreal to Austin, the youthful indulgence otherwise known as candy is all grown up.

SQUISH

www.squishcandies.com The perfect accompaniment to a glass of bubbly? Translucent gummy bears with notes of pineapple- and raspberry-flavoured Prosecco, courtesy of Squish. The Montreal artisanal candy purveyor’s selection of boozy sweets also includes mulled-wine star-shaped gummies (taking after the traditionally spicy libation) and Cuba libre cubes boasting a chewy rum-and-cola centre, alongside traditional, vegetarian and even vegan bite-sized treats.

CHRISTIE’S GOURMET GIFTS

www.christysgourmetgifts.com Inspired by good ol’ ale, this mom-and-pop boutique in Burlington serves up handmade brittles made with local craft beer and peppered with almonds. The melt-in-your-mouth treat is in good company: patrons can also sample Chardonnay, Merlot and Baco Noir wines from the Niagara and Prince Edward County regions with every bite of Christie’s organic wine-infused toffees made with Belgium chocolate, among other fine sweet treats.

LOLLYPHILE

www.lollyphile.com As its name suggests, San Francisco-born and Austin-based candy manufacturer Lollyphile reimagines the perennial lollipop, offering up some 30 unique flavours — think chai tea, maple-bacon and wasabi-ginger, a far cry from lemon, strawberry, blueberry and other traditional lollies. Its cocktail, beer- and wine-inspired selection, however, draws on time-honoured happy-hour staples like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and lager beer, as well as comeback kid absinthe.

CURIOUS CANDY

www.curiouscandy.com With an entrance bedecked in twisted branches leading to a whimsical world past its haunting gates, fashion designer Cynthia Rowley’s Upper East Side confectionary takes a page out of Tim Burton’s book. Cookies and cream popcorn, brickle (a buttery toffee-and-dark-chocolate sandwich sprinkled with toasted peanuts, almonds and pecans) and birthday cake-flavoured jelly beans beckon, though you’ll first want to make a beeline for the houses’s Champagne bubbles reminiscent of the first-rate sparkling wine. × OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 15

FEED BY TOM DE LARZAC

STARTING THE DAY OFF RIGHT

I, LIKE MANY OTHERS, LOVE BACON. Actual-

ly, I love pork, all things pork. So it’s not a surprise that I indulge a little bit extra during my weekend breakfasts. Bacon is the staple, but every once in a while I like to mix it up, and the go-to is sausage.

Not the kind of sausage you find at your local greasy spoon, or even the bangers you get in a proper British pub, but simple breakfast sausage patties. Not that there is anything wrong with either of the other options, but the ground pork patties allow for so much more flavour to be added.

My first experience with breakfast sausages was a complete accident. I was making ravioli (yes, this recipe tastes great in ravioli as well) and ended up with too much filling. I threw it in the fridge without a real idea of what I would do with it. The next morning we had a kitchen catastrophe ... we ran out of bacon, not a surprise when eight people are having breakfast together. We needed something to go with eggs, so I threw some of the seasoned pork into the frying pan, and the results were very fantastic.

Running out of bacon is normally seen as a kitchen tragedy with cause for an emotional meltdown, but this time it turned into a moment of surprise ingenuity, with results that now open the door to endless breakfast options.

16 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

APPLE BREAKFAST SAUSAGE

1 1 1 2 2 1/4 1

lbs ground pork (cold) Granny Smith apple, fine dice large shallot, finely diced tbsp sage, dried tbsp butter cup cream tbsp each salt and pepper

1. Heat non-stick pan over medium heat. Add butter, apple

and shallots. Cook for 5 minutes. or until both shallots and apples are soft and slightly browned. Remove from heat and cool in fridge.

2. In a mixing bowl, combine all ingredients (try to keep all ingredients as cold as possible). Mix until all ingredients are evenly distributed. Form mixture into small patties (1/2 thick, or size of sliders). Place back into fridge for 15 minutes.

3. Heat pan over medium-high heat. When hot, place patties in pan (do not overcrowd). Allow patties to cook for 3 minutes on each side, or until outside is seared and centre is cooked through. Serve with your favourite style of eggs. ×

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How do you like them apples?

THEY SAY “AN APPLE A DAY,” RIGHT? But if you tried to do

that all year ‘round, some of those apples would be ... well, less equal than others.

The best time to bite into a crisp, juicy apple is at the tail end of summer and into the fall — harvest time (see page 40 of the September 2015 issue). After that, it’s time to switch to calvados, the tried and true method for preserving apple goodness throughout the year. Generally made by distilling apple cider, calvados is still under the radar at our nation’s bars, even though the spirit is the official drink of several branches of the Canadian Armed Forces, who adopted it after the D-Day invasion. To this day, Normandy’s signature apple brandy is still used as a palate cleanser in between meals at official dinners.

Given the range of spirits and apéritifs made with distilled cider, however, it’s hard to know how to get the most out of it as a cocktail ingredient. Some products are aged for only two years, while others make it to the quarter-century club.

Calvados is also occasionally made with pear cider instead of apple and, of late, we’ve been seeing a new strain, pommeau, a traditional apéritif version of calvados that mixes up the spirit with a little fresh-pressed cider. I asked Kyle Burch, known for his calvados cocktails at Toronto’s Cava where he tends bar, to explain why it inspires him so.

“I really like the spectrum of spirits that complement calvados,” says Burch, “but I approach it in a very different way than I would a brandy, since I’m specifically looking to showcase the apple flavour.”

18 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

Burch advises we reach for white vermouth, gin and young sherry when picking soul mates for calvados. But he cautions we should be careful and avoid having a heavy hand with these modifiers.

“I think of calvados as something like a Burgundy, as opposed to a California Cabernet,” he explains. “A California Cab hits you in the face whereas a Burgundy is a little more thoughtful and delicate.”

Especially so with pommeau, which he uses in his Hildegard cocktail and is so delicate that, once you start to mix it up, it’s easy to lose the distinct fresh apple flavour. But Burch is an old pro and, as such, managed to find the perfect formula to showcase pommeau in this subtle, yet boozy, pre-dinner libation.

And, yes, we really do love them apples.

HILDEGARD

1 oz London Dry gin 1 oz fino sherry (Burch recommends Barbadillo Solear Manzanilla or something similar) 1 oz Père Jules Pommeau 3 drops orange flower water 3 dashes Regans’ orange bitters

Stir over ice. (Burch advises to stir “quick and light,” so as to preserve the delicacy.) Strain and serve straight up into a chilled coupe. ×

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BON VIVANT BY PETER ROCKWELL

ILLUSTRATION: MATT DALEY/SHINYPLIERS.COM

I’ve read that in many tastings, cheap wine scores higher than the good stuff. How is that possible?

The internet sure loves a good controversy, especially when it appears to prove that “the man” is sticking it to the little guy. To many wine novices, the perception is that the sticking is being done by all those high-end wineries that charge what, to them, seems like a king’s ransom for their juice.

These “tastings” you mention seem to pop up online with unsettling frequency as anyone with a love of conspiracy, looking for a chance to go viral, gathers together a handful of regular folk to give their hedonistic opinion on a group of mystery wines in hopes of showing that price doesn’t relate to quality.

Some setups do include professional wine tasters, but they tend to be aimed at embarrassing the experts rather than proving an average table wine is better than the output of a premium winery.

× Ask your questions at bonvivant@quench.me

So how could anyone, no matter how little they know about vino, determine that a bargain-basement bottle tastes better than its pricier counterparts? Well, the key is that the less a taster knows, the more apt they are to drink from the heart rather than the head, and that scenario guarantees that the odds will always be stacked against, as you put it, the good stuff.

Why? In many ways you pay the big bucks for body, muscle and longevity, and a wine built to taste best in 30 years won’t drink to its true potential if you pop its cork before its time. Line up a selection of cheap, cheerful and odds are, sweeter wines against their pricier competition all packed with heavy tannins, sharp acidity and unbalanced fruit flavours (which they all would show if drank too young), and I have no doubt the majority of newbies would pick the path most approachable.

Not that there’s anything wrong with inexpensive wine; I certainly drink more than my fair share. I just know what great wine tastes like, and they cost a lot more.

Is there a trick to describing a wine’s flavour?

The best thing about describing wine is there really aren’t any rules. Sure, professionals have a lexicon of liquid descriptors they rely on to get their opinions across, but you don’t have to use them. All you have to do is keep your mind as open as your mouth.

I get that the pressure to pull out specific flavours and aromas from a glass can be daunting for the uninitiated palate. If I can give you one tip it would be to worry less about what a wine isn’t revealing to you and more about putting into words what pops into your head when you’re experiencing its juice.

You can start by imagining all the other non-grape fruit flavours a particular wine is letting loose. They all have basic characteristics you’ll easily find familiar. Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, can give the impression of blackberry, blackcurrant or cassis depending on how winemakers put their spin on it.

Beyond the basic flavour profile, any number of winemaking manoeuvres (like how a wine is aged) will add layers of nuance to that profile that you’ve got to understand to identify. That’s where a seasoned taster can pull a rabbit out of their hat.

Never fear the use of purple prose. I have a friend who goes back into her mind when she tastes, humanizing what she’s drinking into vivid, and often hilarious, pictures.

While I’ve never enjoyed her grandmother’s Blueberry Grunt, when she uses that kind of imagery it never fails to remind me that when it comes to wine, you get what you get. × OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 19

VAN IS

by Tim Pawsey

When the wraps came off the bottles at this year’s Lieutenant Governor’s Awards for Excellence in British Columbia Wines, there was one particularly welcome surprise. For the first time ever in the prestigious competition’s 13-year history, a Vancouver Island winery was among the winners.

The wine awarded was Tempest Ortega 2014 from Enrico Vineyards in the Cowichan Valley.

(clockwise from top left) Winemaker Daniel Cosman has his hands full working at Unsworth and Enrico; Averill Creek’s Andy Johnston; Blue Grouse winemaker Bailey Williamson and owner Paul Brunner 20 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

SLAND To put things into perspective, there were 425 wines entered by 116 wineries, meaning that the wine received support throughout the process, to be awarded one of just 14 medals.

For the past two or three decades — at least since the inception of the Okanagan Wine Festival competition (recently renamed the BC Wine Awards) — the staging of white flights to be judged at most competitions has been pretty well defined something like this: Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, white blends and “other” white varieties that could range everywhere from Madeleine Sylvaner to Pinot Auxerrois and not a few wines in between, including Ortega.

While there’s no denying the Okanagan’s success, Vancouver Island has unquestionably lingered far too long in its shadow. Whether due to small volumes, a string of difficult harvests a few years back or the reality that most Island wines rarely make it off the island, these wineries still have a relatively low profile.

Although, signs of change now abound as BC’s smaller regions, once considered too marginal to be taken seriously, are now starting to show their potential.

Enrico’s win also comes at a timely moment: this summer, a survey was underway to determine how best to move forward with sub appellations in BC, following this year’s confirmation of Golden Mile Bench as the province’s first Sub Geographic Indicators (GI). Vancouver Island and its surrounding Gulf Islands will no doubt be part of the discussion. It’s quite likely that the spotlight on the Cowichan will serve to highlight the need to also address the “catch-all” convenience of the current Geographical Indicators that have been in place since the early 1990s.

Somehow, the generic label of “Vancouver Island” just doesn’t cut it in a province where the boundaries of winemaking are being pushed further every year. While the original GI tended to be umbrellas, in terms of grouping similar, smaller regions, the fact is that the Cowichan Valley is unique, as are the Saanich Peninsula and the Comox Valley. Even considering the North and South Gulf Islands (a good 120 km apart) as one entity would seem to be less than ideal, when matters of more precise origin on the label are being widely discussed.

Enrico is a relatively recent addition to the Cowichan scene.

The vineyard was established in 2007 (followed by the winery in 2009) and varieties grown include Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Cabernet Foch and Cabernet Libra. Enrico’s winemaker is Daniel Cosman, whose full-time gig is at Unsworth Vineyards, another newbie making waves on the island.

Cosman worked in the Fraser Valley and the Cowichan for several vintages before joining the Unsworth opening team assembled in 2010 by owners Tim and Colleen Turyk. They had moved to the valley after retiring from their successful commercial fishing business. Tim Turik grew up spending summers on close-by Shawnigan Lake and wasted little time in purchasing the historic farm and acreage that the family has now shaped into Unsworth Winery and Restaurant — which bears his mother’s maiden name.

It’s very much a family-run affair: Tim and Colleen’s son Chris is assistant vineyard manager and handles marketing. He’s also a certified sommelier, which comes in handy at the restaurant. Daniel’s wife, Sarah Cosman (also a trained viticulturist and

oenologist), is the general manager, while chef Steven Elskens is married to restaurant manager Christle Pope.

There’s a sense that Unsworth is part of a new breed of island winery that promises to take things to the next level, along with the likes of Averill Creek and a handful of others. Of particular note here is the hospitality — that makes the restaurant a must-visit proposition. The 1900s farmhouse has been well restored, with a sensitivity that very much retains the feel of the old home, while adding an airy extension and patio overlooking the vineyard. Elksens’s locally focused plates are as good as I’ve tasted at any winery restaurant in Canada or elsewhere.

Daniel Cosman says the island thrives or fails very much at the mercy of Mother Nature, who he likes to refer to as a “cruel mistress.” He offers Tasmania and Champagne as climatic comparisons to Vancouver Island. Like many Island winemakers, he’s keenly aware of the risks and limitations.

And driven by the understanding that success, always, flows from the right grape for the site.

His wines demonstrate an across-the-board cleanness of style. Unsworth offers a unique interpretation of the acidity that very much defines island wines. Cosman works with Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignette, Petit Milo, Marechal Foch and Cabernet Libre. (Sauvignette is the new name given by Unsworth to Epicure.) Riesling — for which he considers the Cowichan Valley not ideal — he brings in from Naramata.

Petit Milo — “It’s astonishingly similar to Riesling,” says Cosman — ripens before the rain comes and grows very manageably straight. Many of the varieties now grown on Vancouver Island were test planted at around the same time as the Okanagan trials that served to establish the modern industry, he says.

For example, Sauvignette was originally planted in the 1980s on Salt Spring Island.

CONTRARY TO POPULAR BELIEF, BC’s commercial winemaking history actually had its early beginnings on Vancouver Island, when, in 1927, the Growers’ Wine Company started making sparkling apple drinks and loganberry wine in Saanich.

Growers Cider is made to this day. The first modern vineyard was established at just about the same time that the early Okanagan pioneers were getting started, with the first commercial vineyard started almost by chance — in 1970, near Duncan.

Dennis Zanatta, a dairy farmer of Italian heritage, like many Italian-Canadians had penchant for making his own wine and planted a few vines on his property. Over the years, his interest grew and he eventually planted some hybrids such as Léon Millot, which came from the Federal Government’s Plant Health Centre in Saanich, BC. A spin-off from the Okanagan’s Becker project, the Duncan project (1981-1986) undertook similar trials of varieties that might prove suited specifically to Vancouver Island. A number of sites were involved in the provincially run program, including one acre supplied by Zanatta.

The trials of some 150 varieties at three sites proved to be invaluable in examining the suitability of many varieties that form the backbone for coastal plantings today, ranging from Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer to Ortega and Bacchus.

OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 21

BLUE GROUSE PAULA SPARKLING ($25) A blend of this wine, perhaps as much as any other I’ve tasted recently from Vancouver Island, is a really good example of what could be taking place on a broader scale. It’s superbly textured with just a little sweetness and is a shoo-in for seafood and Asian plates.

BLUE GROUSE BLACK MUSCAT 2012 ($30) Hans Kiltz planted this variety and it remains the only one known of its kind in the country. Almost indigo in the glass, it sports an intense cassis nose with a spry palate of blackcurrant, mulberry, spice and peppery notes. Very limited availability.

BLUE GROUSE PINOT NOIR 2013 ($24) Lifted cherry notes on top with bright fruit and some earthy notes before an elegant, quite fruit-driven palate with firm acidity, good length, definite minerality and well-balanced tannins.

ENRICO TEMPEST 2014 ($18) This 100% Ortega jumps out of the glass with white flower and orchard fruits, followed by a juicy, citrus and peach-toned palate with an excellent balance of fruit and acidity to produce a textbook example of what this variety can do. Think mild cheeses and cold cuts or just plain sipping.

AVERILL CREEK FOCH EH 2014 ($24) A fun approach to much maligned Marechal Foch yields lively upfront red fruit berries on the nose before an approachable lightto medium-bodied, quite fruit-driven palate with a slightly herbal rather than foxy edge with just a touch of tannin. Like many a lighter red, a few minutes in the chiller makes all the difference.

AVERILL CREEK GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2014 ($20) Delicate floral and spicy notes on the nose, followed by orchard fruits, citrus and hints of ginger on the palate with a zesty ending.

UNSWORTH PINOT GRIS 2014 ($22) Lees aging (“How we deal with island acidity,” says Cosman) brings remarkable texture, orchard fruits, purity of flavours, structure and great fruit acid balance.

UNSWORTH PINOT NOIR 2013 ($24) Earthy and mushroom notes with pure, sweet fruit, dark cherry over strawberry with juicy acidity and some oak notes.

UNSWORTH ROSÉ ($18) Well-balanced, delicious expression of Pinot Noir with integrated 10% neutral oak: cranberry, cherry with apple and citrus background and lingering acidity. Best of Class All Canadian Wine Championships.

UNSWORTH ALLEGRO 2014 ($20) Straw colour with an orchid pink hue, this refreshing blend of Petit Milo and Sauvignette offers orchard fruits on top, followed by pear and apple on the palate. Nicely fruity but dry with a hint of nettle that’s somehow reminiscent of Pinot Auxerrois.

22 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

While Unsworth Vineyards is fundamentally a newcomer from the ground up, recently unveiled Blue Grouse amounts to a dramatic makeover of one of the Cowichan’s longest-running pioneers.

Founded as a labour of love in 1989 by Hans Kiltz and family, Blue Grouse has been a trailblazer in forging a path for earlier ripening German varieties such as Ortega, Bacchus and Siegerrebe.

Kiltz very much understood the need to resist being seduced by commercial pressures to plant more trendy varieties of the times and focused on planting what worked.

Over the years, Blue Grouse built a reputation for producing one of the most consistent Ortegas in the small region, very much helping to establish it as the Island’s flagship white.

When the small winer and vineyard were purchased by the Brunner family, the new owners embarked on an expansion that has truly transformed the small estate winery. They managed to stay true to Hans Kiltz’s original vision, which has now grown to 31 acres.

Paul and Cristina Brunner and their daughter Paula-Cristina are well along the path to transform Blue Grouse into one of the area’s top destinations. They’re a globetrotting family with connections to Chile, Peru, South Africa and the US, who have visited many of the world’s more prominent wine regions.

For winemaking, Brunner turned to Bailey Williamson, who used to work with Road 13 Vineyards in the Okanagan. He, too, has very much grasped the need to work only with varieties that make sense for this sometimes-borderline region. Williamson is a huge fan of the Cowichan Valley, which he identifies as one of the warmest regions on Vancouver Island, an ideal microclimate that is perfect for growing any number of varieties. But he insists it’s crucial for those to be the correct varieties, to allow him to showcase the vineyard’s true potential.

Interestingly enough, the grapes that are emerging as the Blue Grouse stalwarts are, in fact, the very same varieties that Hans Kiltz had originally decided to work with. Early signs are that Williamson’s Pinot Noir program will prove to be one of the region’s more impressive, with strong showings from 2012 and 2013. The new sparkling wine program, using island-grown varieties, also has plenty of potential.

All too often new ownerships choose to deliberately ignore what has gone before. Not so in this case. The Brunners are truly gracious in their acknowledgement of the Kiltz family. In fact, they have dedicated the entire mezzanine, along with its balcony overlooking the vineyard, as a tribute to the Kiltz family and their vision. The winery itself is impressive enough, but this thoughtful gesture obviously flows from people with a real understanding of the kind of commitment it takes to start a successful winery from scratch. It’s heart-warming to see Hans Kiltz getting the recognition he so well deserves after all these years.

The Brunners are also in no hurry to add more hospitality such as a boutique inn or full-service restaurant, even though the new winery does have a commercial kitchen and excellent reception facilities. Paul Brunner says that may or may not come in time. For now, he says, the winery needs to solidify its reputation as a serious producer. However, that already appears to be unfolding.

“We want to make great wines, not just good wines,” he says. ×

the best

by Rick VanSickle

IF THERE IS ONE THING everyone can agree on here in this land of phantasmagorical beauty, it is this: Not one white wine style defines the Okanagan Valley and its sister region the Similkameen Valley. It really is an ever-changing mosaic, born of the free will of those who craft the wines from virtually any grape they choose.

“The interesting thing about the Valley,” says Black Hills Estate winemaker Graham Pierce, “is we haven’t quite nailed down what we do best. I would say the we are trending away from a signature variety.”

Oh, there’s good Chardonnay all right, plenty of it; Pierce makes a dandy, but there’s a particular joie de vivre his Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc/Sémillon blend called Alibi bring to the party; these are swoon-worthy wines that make you think about the profound diversity in a northsouth climate that ticks off all the right boxes: ripeness, acid, balance and variety.

It would be silly to fence yourself into a style or “signature” grape when there is so much freedom to roam in this region of endless possibilities.

By sheer numbers, Chardonnay was sent packing from its dominant position as most planted grape in the Valley in 2008.

The ubiquitous (I mean that in a loving way) Pinot Gris now leads the onslaught with Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc following behind. Pinot Blanc, once the darling of BC,

has spiralled to sixth position with a host of other grapes — Viognier, other white Rhône varieties, Sémillon, Chenin Blanc and even a tiny sprinkling of Gruner Veltliner (OK, one Gruner, from Culmina, but it’s a knockout!) — rounding out, and gaining momentum, in what is truly an eclectic and dizzying choice for consumers.

There is no limit to what can be grown in the hot/cool climate of the Okanagan Valley, so winemakers are constantly experimenting with what does best or separating themselves from the pack (more than 250 grape wineries and counting in BC) and creating unique house styles.

But, as in every industry, there are those who take the road less travelled.

Going rogue has never been a problem for winemaker Dwight Sick at Stag’s Hollow Winery in Okanagan Falls. Sick has always marched to the beat of his own drum, surprising consumers with quirky varietals, blends and styles that have increasingly become as much a part of the Okanagan and Similkameen Valley winescape as Chardonnay and Pinot Gris.

“We’re becoming known for not following conformity,” says Sick.

The winery is always “trying to narrow down the focus” and play to the Okanagan’s strengths, which he says are “natural acidity and aromatics for days.

That can be an identifier for us. We have that in spades.”

Sick believes three white grapes answer the bell on both counts: Riesling, Vidal and Albarino. Wait, did he just say Albarino? You bet. Sick elected to send Sauvignon Blanc packing and instead turned to the Spanish stalwart Albarino to fill the gap. His initial crop, the first in Canada, produced a mere four cases (with 300 to 400 cases planned for 2015) and it is delicious, with ripe, succulent flavours, lemon oil and hazelnut accents. It’s another arrow in the quiver as Sick tries to stay one step ahead of fickle consumers in a changing climate that is forcing many in the Okanagan to rethink what they have planted and where they’ve planted it.

Rhône varieties, such as Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne, are on the uptick and, in the right hands, can be a recipe for gorgeous, complex whites in the warmth and sunshine of the Okanagan.

I was enthralled with Pentage Winery’s 2011 Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier blend with spicy Asian pear, melon and complex exotic spice notes.

The Stag’s Hollow Viognier/Marsanne Kiln House Vineyard 2013, made in limited quantities, was also memorable, but undeniably quirky. It’s made in the natural “orange” wine style with skin contact, co-fermentation, low sulphur, wild fermented, unfined and unfiltered. “It’s more about texture; this plays on the oxidative side of things,” explains Sick. “How OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 23

Pentage’s Paul Gardner far can I go?” Well, he went pretty far and I have to agree when he says, “Reductive?

Oxidative? Whatever, it’s so interesting and thought provoking, it makes you salivate. People will love it or hate it.” With flavours of marmalade, peach purée, citrus rind, ginger and papaya accompanied by tannins and a burnt orange colour, this is a whole new frontier to explore for white wine making in the Okanagan.

Not that a smattering of Rhône varietals and a natural/orange style paint a true picture of what’s going on here in terms of white wines in the Okanagan. It is trending, but in small doses.

The classic white Bordeaux blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon shows real potential as a white wine that can do a lot of the heavy lifting in both the Okanagan and Similkameen valleys. It can be viewed as a solid alternative to Chardonnay with a richness and complexity that can rival the world’s most popular white wine.

In the stunningly beautiful Similkameen Valley, the Clos du Soleil Capella 2013 accentuates what winemaker Michael Clark calls “the strong mineral component and herbality” the region’s rocky soils bring to the wines. The Capella is all about elegance and finesse. Pear and apple flavours mingle with profound, stony minerality and fine oak spice. The winery’s entire portfolio is based on the style of both red and white Bordeaux.

“It’s exciting to a part of an emerging region,” Clark says.

Time Estate also makes a similarly classically styled blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon with pear, melon and gooseberry notes and nicely packaged in 24 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

is the one constant from winery to winery, and, of course, Gewürztraminer, which provides so much pleasure for the West Coast’s Asian-influence dining scene, has found a home in the Okanagan Valley.

But it is Riesling that has come the furthest in terms of style since I have been coming to the region in the early 1990s.

What was once an overly sweet, flabby, unbalanced style is emerging as a serious wine that is embracing the natural acidity and minerality that both the Okanagan and Similkameen have to offer.

Tantalus Vineyards, Stag’s Hollow, Sperling Vineyards, St Hubertus Estate Winery and Orofino Winery are at the forefront of a BC Riesling revolution.

Dwight Sick at Stag’s Hollow elegant oak stylings. It paired perfectly with marinated scallop, panko fried oyster, house cured bacon, foie gras dust and beurre blanc at a dinner at the Local Lounge and Grill in Summerland.

Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc are also the foundation for a growing number of proprietary blends for many Okanagan wineries. Tinhorn Creek blends in Viognier, Muscat and Chardonnay for its top white, the Oldfield Series 2Bench 2013, which delivers a showy profile of pear, melon, apple and peach notes. It’s fairly elegant but bolstered by firm acidity through a long finish.

Other varietals that help build the white wine structure of this region include Chenin Blanc, which can be a gorgeous, reliable wine for casual drinking. The Inniskillin Discovery Series Chenin shows classy honeydew and tropical fruits. Pinot Gris is a staple of the Valley and above all

One of the finest examples of the new Rieslings emerging I tried on a recent trip was the Summerhill Vineyard Riesling 2013. It’s made from old vines planted with the Weis 21 clone, based on biodynamic principals using ambient yeasts from the vineyard.

This wine absolutely stole the show on the Riesling front, with succulent grapefruit, vivacious lemon-lime, alfalfa honey, brilliant and defined minerality that works magnificently with a slight reductive note.

Does this wine benefit from 30 days of aging in the winery’s curious pyramid? That is one of the mysteries of the Okanagan.

What isn’t a mystery is how so many styles of white wines not only thrive in the remarkable climate of the Okanagan Valley, but also have the power to thrill. Here, and in the emerging Similkameen Valley, it’s a multi-dimensional mecca of goodness where Chardonnay is but a cog in a giant wheel of varietal bliss.

This is a brilliant Riesling from fruit grown using biodynamic principles and fermented wild in the vineyard from ambient yeasts. The nose shows an explosion of succulent grapefruit, lemon-lime, quince, alfalfa honey and a slight reductive note. It shows brilliant minerality on the palate with zesty lime, citrus rind, lemon tart and honeycomb.

92 CLOS DU SOLEIL CAPELLA 2013, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($28) The Capella is a 91% Sauvignon Blanc/9% Sémillon blend that draws from the rocky soils of the Similkameen Valley. It’s pure elegance on the nose with pear, apple, grapefruit, cream and spice. On the palate, it is all about finesse and balance with pear and apple flavours mingling with profound and stony minerality and fine oak spice.

91 BLACK HILLS VIOGNIER 2013, OKANAGAN ($25) A fresh-style Vio that sees no oak.

Beautiful aromas of peach, apple, mango and fragrant white flowers. It’s round and rich on the palate and shows a range of ripe fruit flavours that build in intensity through the finish.

91 CULMINA UNICUS 2014, OKANAGAN ($30) This is Culmina’s second vintage of Gruner Veltliner, the first planting of this Austrian grape in BC. It’s highly aromatic with floral notes, citrus, melon, grapefruit, ginger and even a white pepper accent. The flavours range from lime, lemon peel and grapefruit to rounder notes of pear and peach with some minerals and spice.

90 INNISKILLIN DISCOVERY SERIES CHENIN BLANC 2014, OKANAGAN ($17) Lovely melon, pear and apple aromas on the nose. It’s round, delicious and juicy on the palate with rich pear, apricot and mango flavours.

90 TINHORN CREEK OLDFIELD SERIES 2BENCH WHITE 2013, OKANAGAN ($20) A blend of Sémillon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier and Muscat that shows pear, melon, apple and peach notes

on the nose. It’s fairly elegant on the palate with a cacophony of flavours that are layered and lush, but lifted by firm acidity through a fairly long finish.

90 PENTAGE WINERY VIOGNIER/ ROUSSANNE/MARSANNE 2011, OKANAGAN ($27) A lovely Rhône-inspired white blend with a nose of spicy Asian pear, apricot, melon and peach. Shows some elegance on the palate with fully integrated and exotic apricot, peach and pear fruit as well as intriguing spice notes.

90 CLOS DU SOLEIL SATURN 2013, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($29/375 ML)

with great anticipation. finally available in ontario in limited quantites. a champagne providing perfect balance.

Duval-Leroy Brut Reserve reveals its complexity and recognition for consistency. a fine champagne, finally.

The Saturn is a late harvest Sauvignon Blanc with 10% of the fruit botrytised.

Such a classy nose of sweet Meyer lemon, lime peel, grapefruit and crème brûlée. It’s rich and creamy on the palate with sweet fruit notes, roasted hazelnuts and complexity all balanced by fresh acidity.

90 STAG’S HOLLOW ALBARINO 2014, OKANAGAN (NA) This first vintage of Stag’s Hollow’s Albarino is not available to the public because so little was made. It’s an interesting wine, made with a touch of oak and a little reductive. It’s quite ripe and full throttle with notes of peach, apricot, hazelnuts, lemon oil and minerals.

89 SEE YA LATER RANCH GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2014, OKANAGAN ($15) Highly aromatic Gew with aromas of honey-dipped grapefruit, lychee, tropical fruit and exotic spices. It’s nicely balanced on the palate with grapefruit, spice and balancing acidity.

89 TINHORN CREEK PINOT GRIS 2014, OKANAGAN ($17) Tinhorn always does a nice job with this Okanagan staple. The nose shows honeysuckle, melon, tropical fruits and a smidge of citrus. All that lovely fruit is balanced nicely by racy acidity through the finish.

88 THE VIEW RIESLING 2012, OKANAGAN ($19) Packed with citrus, pear, apple, ginger and interesting mineral notes on the nose. It’s crisp and fresh on the palate with green apple and lemon-lime flavours that play well with the subtle minerals through the finish. ×

LCBO# 661264 | VINTAGES: October 17, 2015

93 SUMMERHILL VINEYARD RIESLING 2013, OKANAGAN ($30)

OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 25

MEANING OF CO

by Michael Pinkus

What does it mean to be cool climate? Well, if you think of this past winter you probably wouldn’t be asking that question. Here, I’m asking in a smaller context. In wine terms — what does it mean to be cool climate?

For starters, it means high acidity, difficulty growing grapes — especially the big reds — and a fluctuating result from year to year; I’m not talking diurnal temperatures (cool nights and warm days), I’m talking one year is great and everything grows, the next is wet and rainy to the point where the berries are almost waterlogged and the next is so cool the Cabernet and Syrah are destined for rosé.

Cool climate is tough grape growing to say the least — but it’s the wines that make us all swoon and the ones we all talk about from France, from New Zealand, from Italy. They are all conversation starters, and what they lack in power, more times than not, they make up for in finesse. Their natural acidity helps to keep the wines from becoming jammy and too hot with alcohol. True, the fruit occasionally suffers. After all, big, fluffy, fruity wines are fun to drink and as any winemaker will tell you, “appeal to the masses and win competitions every time.” But give a cool climate wine a chance with dinner and you may have trouble serving warm climate to anybody with a delicate piece of fish on their plate. That’s because cool climate equals food friendly. They may not be the wines you pull out as the walk-around-wine at a party (that’s what California is for), but around the table they make all the difference.

As one Australian winemaker commented to me after a few vintages in Ontario, “I love the natural acidity we get here, to us Aussies acidity was something that usually came in a bag.”

To understand the notion of acidity, you’d have to compare hot climate versus cool climate, but that’s a no-brainer. A better way is to seek out cool climate styles and compare those classic grape varieties with their Old World and New World counterparts. Each has developed its own signature style, but as Old World falls behind, they try to mimic the New World to make up market share; case in point the Loire versus New Zealand. Each makes Sauvignon Blanc and sometimes those lines get blurred as the Loire tries to play catch-up with New Zealand (which has propelled the grape to new heights with the wine buying public).

But if the Loire can stick with its own style, instead of trying to copy others, then when Savvy B drinkers get tired of the flashy New Zealand style, they’ll know where to go.

The same can be said for grapes like Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Syrah. Each grape brings something to the cool 26 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

climate portfolio that is different than its hotter climate counterpart. Sure, a Burgundian Pinot tastes different than an Oregon or a Tasmanian, but each has its place in the lexicon of wine lovers as long as you know what you’re looking for and why you’re going to that particular place in the world for that particular grape variety. There are points and counterpoints and then there are the extremes. These are the easiest to detect. It is those subtle nuances that we get from cool climate regions that really make wine so interesting and so much fun to learn about.

CHARDONNAY MAISON ROCHE DE BELLENE VIEILLES VIGNES MEURSAULT 2010, BURGUNDY, FRANCE ($48.95) Creamy with lime meringue, peach purée and a shot of vanilla and butter cream. Sounds sloppy but once that acidity hits the back palate, bang, you’re back for more.

DOMAINE BERTHENET MONTAGNY 1ER CRU, BURGUNDY, FRANCE ($27.95) Nice depth and roundness of flavour, some apple, peach and a small dollop of vanilla that can be found at the back; once again acidity is the cornerstone.

DOMAINE VINCENT SAUVESTRE BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY 2013, BURGUNDY, FRANCE ($19.95) While the nose is subtle and white fruited, the palate punches you in the mouth with Chardonnay flavour. Nice spiced finish.

GREYWACKE CHARDONNAY 2012, NEW ZEALAND ($45) Rich and full flavoured with butterscotch, almond, butter and spice, fruit should emerge with time in the bottle but those seemingly sweet notes are counterbalanced by the acidity.

TRINITY HILL GIMBLETT GRAVELS CHARDONNAY 2013, NEW ZEALAND ($34.95) Hints of almond and praline with white fruits on the mid-palate and through to the finish where a mineral hit kicks in; New Zealand Chardonnays are really starting to show great finesse.

OOL (top to bottom) Kevin Judd from Greywacke; Dog Point’s winemaking team Matt Sutherland and Murray Cook; Nicolas Potel and Sylvain Debord at Maison Roche de Bellene

SAUVIGNON BLANC CHATEAU DE SANCERRE 2013, LOIRE, FRANCE ($24.95) Here the subtlety of the Loire kicks in: pleasant bit of grassy and grapefruit rind which are just all part of the grape’s charm.

WILLIAM FEVRE SAINT-BRIS 2013, BURGUNDY, FRANCE ($20.95) One of the few allowed Sauvignon Blanc plantings in Burgundy; nice nose and flavours of Sauvignon Blanc with grapefruit pith finish and some minerality peeking through.

STONELEIGH LATITUDE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, NEW ZEALAND ($21.95) Balancing the more robust flavours of pink grapefruit with the grassy and tropical fruit; it’s a really pretty wine.

DOG POINT SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, NEW ZEALAND ($24.95) Putting all the right things together, it’s the typical New Zealand Savvy B we all know and love with its intensity of grapefruit, grassy and gooseberry notes all shot up with big acidity.

OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 27

PINOT NOIR

PINOT GRIS

AUNTSFIELD SINGLE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2012, NEW ZEALAND ($29.95)

PIERRE SPARR RESERVE PINOT GRIS 2013, ALSACE, FRANCE ($16.95)

Delicate yet fruit-driven Pinot Noir with cherry, raspberry and tart cranberry on the finish.

Sure Alsace has a little sweetness behind their Pinot Gris but it’s the acidity that keeps this from being syrup. Flavours are classic hints of honeyed white fruits and floral notes.

MARCHAND-TAWSE BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR 2012, BURGUNDY, FRANCE ($29.95) Classic styling with more earthy notes to complement the black cherry, mineral and cranberry.

CARABELLA ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2012, OREGON, USA ($46)

TIEFENBRUNNER PINOT GRIGIO 2014, ALTO ADIGE, ITALY ($19.95) This citrus dominated Pinot Grigio is full of lemon, lime and hints of grapefruit with lively acidity and a pleasantly long finish.

Oregon has a myriad of Pinot-styles, this one hits the dark and delicate side: boysenberry, cassis, black cherry and hint of liquorice with a nice mineral aspect on the finish.

RAPAURA SPRINGS PINOT GRIS 2013, NEW ZEALAND ($17)

MAYSCHOSS 140 JAHRE JUBILAUMSWEIN TROCKEN PINOT NOIR 2013, GERMANY ($21.95)

OPAWA PINOT GRIS 2014, NEW ZEALAND ($16.95)

Germany is now one of the top producers of this grape in the world, and they are showing some pretty classic styling: a certain smoky element with nice cranberry and a cherry/mineral finish.

DEVIL’S CORNER PINOT NOIR 2013, AUSTRALIA ($24) From Tasmania, where they do cool climate extremely well and Pinot perfectly: really juicy core surrounded by cherry, raspberry, spice with a touch of floral on the finish, all sprinkled with white pepper.

AGENCE DE VOYAGES

W. H. HENRY INC.

TRAVEL AGENTS

This wine brings the fruit in the form of apple, peach and pear; fresh and fruity, a real patio sipper with wonderful balancing acidity.

Another white fruit showstopper, but here there’s a little mineral and citrus that helps keep it fresh.

SYRAH ELEPHANT HILL RED LABEL SYRAH 2013, NEW ZEALAND ($22.95) Everything Syrah should be; a touch smoky, meaty, peppery along with hints of spiced-raspberry and a long, peppery finish. ×

INDO CHINA DISCOVERY JANuARY 9 – 24, 2016

Hanoi, Hoa Lu, Tam Coc, Halong Bay, Hue, Hoi An, Saigon, Mekong Delta, Siem Reap, Phnom Penh

W H Henry Inc. invites you to come and experience a 15 night journey into the heart of Indo China.

Together we will discover its natural beauty, intriguing history and its rich ethnic and cultural diversity.

We will visit awe-inspiring temples, villages and world heritage sites that remain unchanged for centuries.

Our tour will sail in the peaceful Halong Bay and conclude in the world heritage site of Angkor Wat in Cambodia.

15 NIGHTS INCLUDING AIRFARE FROM TORONTO AND VANCOUVER $4,479.00* / MONTREAL DEPARTURES $4,779.00* *price based on double occupancy, including GST/HST, QST and FICAV contribution of $1.00/$1000. Quebec licensee.

Please call Daphne Chin at 514 369 3300 or email daphchin@yahoo.com for further information.

W H Henry Inc. 5165 Sherbrooke Street West, Suite 500, Montreal QC H4A 1T6

28 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

in sync

by Silvana Lau

Deutschland. We love their beers, their cars and their sausages. Yet, for some reason, we are not entirely sold on German wines. The sugary headache inducing plonk of the 1970s left a bad taste in our mouths, blemishing the country’s wine reputation. Blame it on the damn nun.

Blue Nun, an unsophisticated, cheap, flavourless semi-sweet wine, targeted the export market, primarily the UK. To facilitate sales abroad, Blue Nun was advertised as wine that could be quaffed throughout an entire meal, thereby eliminating the often-intimidating dilemma of food and wine pairings. Not only was the wine touted as food-friendly, it was user-friendly as well. The label was easy to read in contrast to the indecipherable gothic scripts, hard to pronounce names and complicated labels that steered many away from German wines. In the 1980s, Blue Nun turned into a flying nun; sales flew through the roof in the UK, the USA and Canada.

The fruity, one-dimensional flavour of Blue Nun (as well as Black Tower and Piesporter) was popular among novice wine drinkers, such as myself. When I was 16 years old, I bussed tables at my parents’ restaurant. The tall, thin bottle, with a blue and white clad nun on the label, sat snugly in the bar fridge alongside her friends, Mr Mateus Rosé and Miss French Piat d’Or. Patrons dined on Ginger Beef and Kung Pao Chicken, and washed it down with a glass or two of Blue Nun. On some occasions, after the customers’ departure, I would discover a partially consumed bottle of wine on the table. After my clean up duties, I would promptly bring the unfinished bottle to the back area where all the “empties” were stored. We all know the saying, “one person’s trash [literally in this case] is another person’s treasure.” Curiosity got the best (or worse) of me, as I “emptied” out the bottle and sampled the leftovers.

As a teen, my taste buds favoured Shirley Temples (the virgin kind) and Fun

Dip (flavoured sugar eaten with a sugar stick). Now this sickly sweet glorified grape juice was added to the list.

The perception that German wines are sugar-water concoctions suited only to the taste buds of newbie wine drinkers (and 16-year-olds) has been difficult to shake. But it’s time to debunk the stereotypes that German wines have unwillingly been assigned.

MYTH #1: SWEET WINE EQUALS BAD WINE

“There is a certain false corollary that since so many bad wines are sweet, that all sweet wines are bad. Well balanced and well made sweet wines are one of the great treasures and legacies of Germany as a wine producing region,” explains Andrew Hanna (the Director of Sales and Marketing) of fine wine importer JH&S. “Off-dry or semi-sweet expressions of Riesling, like Kabinett and Auslese, represent some of the most profound drinking pleasures you’ll find anywhere,” he continues. “It should remain a benchmark for what well balanced Riesling should taste like. Certain folks are promoting a ‘drier is better’ message to drive sales, but I believe this is an oversimplification and a misguided strategy. In my opinion, dryness as a virtue does not make wine more drinkable, saleable or food-friendly. Residual sugar in wine is often a required element to balance the acidity and should be celebrated and embraced.”

The sweet wines of Germany should be celebrated and embraced, especially if it’s a bottle of Trockenbeerenauslese (dried berry selection), Beerenauslese (selected berry harvest) or Eiswein (Icewine). Germany has a long tradition of high quality

and well-balanced sweet wines. These delicious dessert wines have great aging potential, are usually very rare and expensive, and should not be confounded with the “budget” sweet bulk wines. Just like the saying goes, “don’t let one bad apple [or in this case grape], spoil the bunch.”

MYTH #2: GERMAN WINEMAKERS ARE NOT IN SYNC WITH TODAY’S CONSUMERS

There is a new crop of young, passionate, artisan winemakers producing wines that showcase the terroirs of Germany. Hailing from century-old wine industry families, they have the desire and appetite to travel the world and gain skills to better craft their wines. The focus is definitely on quality over quantity.

“Old vines produce smaller yields, resulting in grapes that are complex and deeply concentrated,” Hanna notes. “The results from these plots are electrifying; this is truly the next level of wines in Germany. Over-yielding has done more harm to Germany’s reputation as a quality wine producer than the stylistic choice to bottle some Rieslings off-dry.”

The new breed of winemakers is producing “Old-New” German wines, applying modern winemaking techniques to great old vineyard plots. They are concentrating on promoting the terroirs of Germany.

According to Constantin Richter, winemaker at Weingut Max Ferd Richter, “the different regions in the country can be remarkably different in climate, elevation and soil makeup. Wines produced from the Mosel and Rhine regions can OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 29

FÜNF RIESLING, RHEIN ($10.40) “Fünf” translated from German means 5. As in “it’s 5 o’clock somewhere” and time for an après-work drink!

Off-dry and fruity with subtle aromas of peach, Meyer lemons and honeydew. A slight tease of minerality in the palate ends with a lively bitter finish. Even the frosted white bottle with a cobalt blue label is cheerful; the German umlaut over the “u” resembles a smiley face. Nothing complicated, but an easy everyday (after work) drinking wine that will put a smile on your face. Perfect with “happy hour” snacks such as red curry chicken kebabs and Thai crab cakes.

KÖNIGSCHAFFHAUSER VULKANFELSEN PINOT NOIR ROSÉ TROCKEN 2014, BADEN ($13.95) Prepare your palate for a volcanic eruption of flavours. Grown on the slopes of the ancient volcano Kaiserstuhl, this dry Pinot Noir rosé will whisk your taste buds to the strawberry fields. Coppery pink in colour, this medium-bodied rosé displays aromatic rose petals, ripe strawberries and sweet Rainier cherries on the palate that finishes with a refreshing, zippy acidity. Good depth of flavour with a long finale. Terrific value. A perfect companion to a grilled salmon salad with strawberries, goat cheese and pecans.

RE-THINK DRY RIESLING 2012, MOSEL ($12.80) Still have the stigma that German Rieslings are all overly sweet? This dry white wine will make you “re-think” your attitude towards German Riesling. Pale straw in color with subtle aromas of green apple, ginger, lemon and peach. On the palate, this Mosel Riesling has a refreshing crispness that is rounded out by hints of honeycomb on the finish. The vibrant acidity will make your mouth water, making this wine an ideal apéritif sipper or the perfect lunch companion with a ham, gruyere and apple panini.

SCHLOSS SCHÖNBORN HATTENHEIM ALTE REBEN RIESLING TROCKEN 2012, RHEINGAU ($28.95) Since 1349, Schloss Schönborn has been continuously owned by the same family for 27 generations. The grapes are grown from Alte Reben, or “old vines”, of Hattenheim and provide a symphony of complex flavours. A serious trocken wine that is lush and juicy. Supple, mouth filling and delicious. On the nose, you will encounter ripe peaches, ginger, pineapple compote and citrus notes. Delicate hints of chamomile linger in the background.

The palate is beautifully balanced combining intense stone fruit with a crisp acidity and a chalky minerality kicking in on the finish. An excellent example of Riesling that showcases the terroirs of Germany. A delicious partner with sushi, nasi goreng or even seafood ceviche.

MAX FERD RICHTER WEHLENER SONNENUHR RIESLING KABINETT 2013, MOSEL ($21.95) Wow! From one of the most renowned vineyards in the Mosel region, this extraordinary Kabinett Riesling will enrapture your taste buds. A melange of fragrant peaches, ripe apricots and honeyed fruit oozes over every taste bud, filling the pores of your tongue. Firm acidity and lively minerality pushes through on the finish providing a beautifully balanced wine. At just 8.5% alcohol, this enchantingly elegant wine may be low in alcohol but definitely NOT low in the flavour department. Another glass, please!

REINHOLD HAART HAART TO HEART PIESPORT RIESLING 2013, MOSEL ($19.95) From one of the greatest producers in Piesport, this wine has perfumed aromas of sweet apples and ripe stone fruit that mingle curiously with wet stone mineral notes. The vibrant acidity cuts through the sweetness of this off-dry Riesling and leaves you wanting more. I heart this wine. This is love at first sip. A quintessential “date night” wine, especially if it involves spicy Thai or Szechuan takeout.

KÖNIGSCHAFFHAUSER STEINGRÜBLE PINOT NOIR 2013, BADEN ($17.95) So it is not Burgundy … but for under $20 you will get a seductive Pinot Noir from Baden’s leading cooperative, which focuses on low yields. Earthiness, juicy wild strawberries and black cherries tinged with smoked meat and spice dominate the nose and palate. The acidity is layered with dried berries and silky smooth tannins. A good “bang for your buck” Pinot. Enjoy it with smoked duck or a smoked meat sandwich.

KÖNIGSCHAFFHAUSER VULKANFELSEN PINOT GRIS TROCKEN 2014, BADEN ($17) Planted on volcanic soils, this is another reliable and great value from Baden’s leading cooperative, Königschaffhauser. Floral scents greet you at first, a mix of orchard fruits and honey. Sunny nectarine, ripe green apples and lively lemon flavours follow, big and full. It is medium bodied with a rich, creamy mouthfeel and a balanced finish. This Pinot Gris is much more interesting than her ubiquitous Italian cousin, Pinot Grigio.

An ideal wine for soft rind cheeses or creamy pasta dishes.

30 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

Johannes Haart from Reinhold Haart

taste bone dry as a result of the acidity and minerality. In contrast, wines with the same level of residual sugars from Baden and Pfalz would taste syrupy.”

The biggest challenge Richter and his peers face is bringing the existing high-quality wines to the attention of the general public, while simultaneously increasing the quality of the “budget wines.”

They want to show the world that there is another side to German wines.

MYTH #3: GERMANY DOES NOT PRODUCE RED WINES

The “other” side of Germany does include red wines. German red wine? Isn’t the climate too cold for red grapes to ripen? Up until the 1980s, that assumption was valid. Red grapes accounted for just 12 percent of Germany’s vineyards. The red wines produced were, for the most part, light, thin and sour.

These days, German winemakers are applying their knowledge of cool climate viticulture to dark-skin grapes. Global warming and climate change has allowed Germany to have much success cultivating red wine grapes, such as Dornfelder, Lemberger and Spätburgunder. In fact, Spätburgunder is gaining a reputation in Germany and the rest of the world.

The new rising star may be hard to pronounce, but you can always call it by its less tongue-twisting moniker: Pinot Noir.

According to the President of HHD Imports, Harry Drung (a veteran importer of German wines in the Ontario market), “Pinot Noir is the most widely planted

red grape varietal in the country, and it’s the world’s third-largest producer after France and the US.” Germany’s light and earthy Pinot Noirs are more like modest French Burgundy than the fruit-bomb Pinots of California. Günter Zimmermann (from WG Königschaffhausen Winery) reveals that the wine regions of Baden, Ahr and Pfalz are producing incredible versions that can stand up to and against the greatest French Burgundies.

“It’s an exciting time for German winemakers. German Pinot Noirs have won several international competitions against Burgundies.” Indeed, this may well be the next big wine of Germany.

German winemakers are also vinifying Spätburgunders to make Pinot Blanc de Noirs (white from black). As Zimmerman points out, “the process is like making white wines; the skins of the grapes have little contact with the pressed grape juice. Blanc de Noirs are unique and complex, they have more body and are more fruit driven than white wines, and they are more refreshing and acidic than the red wines that these grapes would make.”

MYTH #4: GERMANY IS JUST RIESLING

It’s hard not to associate Riesling with German wine. It’s the grape that truly put Germany on the map (over 50 percent of the grapes grown in the country are Riesling). However, the new generation of winegrowers wants the world to know that Germany is much more than Riesling.

Let me introduce to you Silvaner and Müller-Thurgau from Franken. Prost! to Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) or Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) from Baden. In fact, there are over 140 grape varietals grown in Germany. Due to global warming and climate change, the country has had success growing Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot.

MYTH #5: GERMAN WINES ARE MOSTLY AVERAGE QUALITY

Blame this misconception on the 1971 German Wine Law. Under this law (legally speaking), the sweetest grapes by definition made the best wine. Sugar content at harvest was all that mattered. Not the

terroir, not the grape variety and not the yield. The sugar-forward law was a horrible tragedy for many of the country’s greatest winemakers. They fought an uphill battle to resist these sabotaging winemaking techniques. Instead, they stuck to their guns and continued growing Riesling on steeply sloping German vineyards.

Sadly, these top-notch Rieslings were all but washed away by the flood of cheap mass-produced wines hitting the market.

During the 1970s and ‘80s, Liebfraumilch and its variations (Blue Nun, Black Tower, etc) lined the shelves of wine stores. These unsophisticated wines (not made from Riesling) garnered much popularity for novice wine drinkers. However, they left a bad taste in the mouth of many wine connoisseurs and stigmatized all German wines. Sales declined in the ‘90s as the world turned to drier styles.

“Those brands were created for the export market and were unknown in Germany. Wine made and sold in Germany is dry. While there are commercial brands in Germany, the majority of German wines come from small or famous international estates,” explains Drung.

Now, more than 20 years later, German Riesling is firmly on the rebound, as quality conscious winemakers impose yield limits and usher in improvements in viticulture. However, popularity does have some downsides for consumers. “As vineyard demand and production in other markets increases, too much of a good thing can only lead to higher prices. Get into German wines while they still represent excellent value,” advises Drung.

It’s time to expand our viticulture horizons. The next time you are shopping for wine, don’t snub past the German section.

In fact, I want you to erase the words Liebfraumilch, Blue Nun and Sweet Plonk from your vocabulary. Forget about them; bury them in a deep dark place along with shoulder pads, Shirley Temples and Fun Dip. From the emerging top-notch Pinot Noirs to the Riesling-based whites that are now reaching new heights thanks to the talents of a new generation of winemakers, modern-day Germany offers wines of diversity and quality unprecedented in the country’s history. If you’ve yet to discover what she has to offer — or if you’ve been blindsided by long-standing myths — there’s no better time than now to discover Germany’s vinous charms. × OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 31

When the “First Fleet” of 11 ships sailed from England in 1787, bound for newly-discovered/acquired Australia, there were about 1,500 people on board.

Men, women, children — and a couple of rabbits.

Yep, rabbits! I’m saying two because, as we all know, a male and female are all you need to get things going. And indeed they did. Hang in, the food angle is coming.

32 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

RABBIT LOVE

by Duncan Holmes

Many of the men, and possibly women, were convicts. Prior to 1783, they would have ended up in North America. But after the American Revolutionary War ended that year, the newly formed United States said that no matter how small the crime — and some were ridiculously small — it no longer wanted Britain’s convicts. Ship them somewhere else, said the new, unencumbered US; we don’t want them.

While in many ways the Land Down Under was a challenging new destination for England’s convicts, the Great Brown Land was heaven on Earth for the propagating rabbits. What started out as the introduction to Oz of an iconic pair of hoppers — memories from home for the Brits, and targets for their muskets on weekend hunts for some easy hippity-hopping protein — got completely out of hand. The First Fleet rabbits went forth and multiplied into plagues of great proportion.

I’ve never been a fan — actually I’m disgusted — of pictures of Great White Hunters who felled giant “trophy” creatures in Africa or elsewhere, then stood, gun in hand, for a picture next to, or actually on, their quarry, as in elephant. But disgusting as this may be, it seemed OK for me to be photographed with the 50 or so rabbits I felled one Saturday afternoon in my long-ago teens. But understand, these grey thumpers were not trophies of some ridiculous sport, and nor was I some kind of Australian super sniper. Nope, these rabbits were food for our family. And for this entrepreneurial youth to gut, skin and sell to his appreciative neighbours.

All that is a long way of getting into the fact that the protein we all need and enjoy eating doesn’t necessarily have to be the production-costly likes of beef, pork or lamb. There is other food out there. If there’s a rabbit plague, catch it and eat it. As I did with my .22. When I took up the call to help control the plague, these were not cute Disney thumpers that show up annually for 15 minutes of Easter fame. They were and continue to be simply grey European rabbits that can be barbecued, roasted, deep fried, fricasseed, casseroled or whatever into delicious meals. My mother, bless her, invariably chose to roast, and roast, and roast our lapin quarry. I never had the courage to suggest that there were other ways to do them, or that medium rare might be an alternative to extremely well done.

While rabbit may not become our everyday fare, it could well become part of a whole range of foods that will end up in our kitchens, simply because all kinds of world change might one day force us to eat differently. Droughts, floods, disasters, supply and demand, global warming, economics in general will mean that not just rabbits, but many other kinds of what we now think of as unusual fare of the fields, forests and streams will become centre-of-the-plate protein. Unusual today, but sustaining us tomorrow.

It will be a tough call to wean ourselves from the tastes, succulence, and potential kitchen triumphs of the red-meat family.

Sure, we eat seafood and poultry, but somehow it doesn’t have the same zing for a Big Deal meal.

I have never tried possum, armadillo or Australia’s wichetty grubs. But I’ve had fish and chips of shark, and shamefully soup of their fins. The list goes on. I have some whitetail deer meat in the freezer, and easy access to kangaroo meat, which my cousin says is really good if you do it the right way. It’s not on my food bucket list. But rabbit? I’m thinking about it once again as I remember our afternoon hunt, and how we singlehandedly attempted to wipe out a plague.

Not bunnies, but rabbits. Find yourself a quality butcher, and hop into something nutritionally different.

OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 33

LAPIN A LA COCOTTE

SERVES 4 TO 6 Unless you toss bits on the barbie, rabbit often ends up a roast or some kind of delicious, melt-in-your-mouth stew. The kind you often make with beef, pork or chicken. I trekked ’round the web and found this French beauty on food.com, and I thank EdsGirlAngie who is credited as the creator.

1 rabbit, quartered (about 2 1/2 lb)

3 slices bacon, cut in thirds 1 1/2 cups onions, sliced

2 garlic cloves, minced

3 tbsp flour

1 cup beef broth

1/4 cup red wine

1 tsp dried thyme

2 tsp dried parsley

2 bay leaves Salt and pepper 1. In a large skillet or medium-sized Dutch oven, cook bacon until done; remove bacon with a slotted spoon and reserve for another use (ex. for a salad).

2. In the bacon drippings, cook the onion and garlic until transparent. Add the rabbit pieces and sauté over medium heat until rabbit is golden.

3. Sprinkle on the flour and continue to brown rabbit for another 5 minutes or so, then add the beef broth, red wine, thyme, parsley and bay leaves.

4. Cover and simmer over low heat for about an hour, adding more broth if necessary. Salt and pepper to taste (with the bacon drippings, not much salt is needed).

5. Serve with mashed potatoes or buttered egg noodles.

SLOW ROASTED RABBIT

SERVES 4 TO 6 I wish my mom could have had access to this recipe from allrecipes.com. The way she did it was to roast the rabbit whole, sometimes with vegetables. She left it in the oven forever.

1 rabbit, cut into pieces, 3 lb 1 3/4 tsp salt

1 tbsp ground back pepper 1/4 cup vegetable oil

4 tsp white sugar

1 onion, chopped 3/4 cup ketchup

1 clove garlic, chopped

1 tbsp paprika 1 1/2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

1 cup water 1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. 2. Season the rabbit pieces with salt and

pepper. Heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. Add the rabbit pieces and brown on all sides.

3. Place in a 9x13 inch baking dish. In a medium bowl, combine the sugar, onion, ketchup, garlic, paprika, Worcestershire sauce and water; pour over rabbit pieces.

4. Bake uncovered for 90 minutes in the preheated oven, basting frequently. Meat should be tender when done.

MATCH: I’d recommend a dry Australian white but nothing oaky.

ROAST VEGETABLES

5 lb potatoes

8 cloves garlic, finely minced 1 1/2 cups olive oil

1 large or 2 small bunches fresh mint, stems removed, leaves finely chopped

1 tbsp coarse salt Freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1. Preheat oven to 350˚ F. 2. Wash and peel the potatoes, cut into

large pieces. Steam for ten minutes.

3. Oil and roast in shallow pan for an hour or so.

4. Toss with the garlic, oil, mint, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Let stand for 30 minutes before serving.

34 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

POT-ROASTED RABBIT WITH ROSEMARY, THYME, SAGE AND LEMON

SERVES 4 This recipe is from Jamie Oliver’s first book, The Naked Chef. Jamie — who is everywhere, doing everything — says normally the rabbit is braised but in this recipe, it is pot-roasted quickly. Love his herb selection, and lemon is always right.

1 rabbit, cut into 8 pieces.

1 lemon Salt and coarsely ground black pepper

1 heaping tbsp rosemary, chopped

1 heaping tbsp thyme, chopped (or a generous tsp of dry thyme) Olive oil

3 tbsp butter

8 sage leaves

1 clove of garlic, thinly sliced

1 large glass of white wine 1. Peel the lemon, roughly chop the peel and set aside. Squeeze the lemon and drizzle the juice over the rabbit pieces.

Season the pieces generously with salt and pepper. Sprinkle the rosemary and thyme over the rabbit.

2. Preheat your oven to 400˚F. 3. Heat some olive oil in a baking dish, add the rabbit pieces, any loose rosemary and thyme; fry over a high heat for about 5 minutes or until the rabbit is golden brown.

4. About halfway through, add the lemon zest, a tablespoon of butter and the sage leaves. Add the garlic and fry for another minute to soften but not colour.

5. Add the white wine — let it sizzle for a minute or so. Put the dish in the preheated oven for about 10 minutes or until cooked to your liking.

6. Remove pan from the oven. Add 2 tbsp of butter and stir it through the juices. Served with baked vegetables. Drizzle the juices over the rabbit.

MATCH: Don’t always head for the whites. You might want to try a light red, like Gamay. ×

MAVERICK

2015

Mavericks, by definition, are unorthodox, independent-minded people. They take a look at what’s considered the norm and tweak it to create something new — something unique to their community.

Our 2015 Maverick Chefs have done just that.

Jenna Mooers and Robert Reynolds of EDNA in Halifax’s north-end; Kazuo Akutsu of Kazu Restaurant in Montreal; Edgar Gutierrez of Edmonton’s Rostizado; and Nick Nutting of Wolf in the Fog in Tofino, British Columbia — each of these intrepid people have provided a unique twist on the traditional to create a culinary treat that their community can revel in.

The thing about our Mavs is that they didn’t set out to change the world or create a new culinary trend. They simply saw a need and decided to fill it. In talking to them, you come to realize that what makes these chefs capable of change and trendsetting is their passion for the whole dining experience. From Halifax to Tofino, these Mavs have realized that we diners want more than just great food on our plates. We want the ambience, conversation and comfort of a family dinner, while still being out on the town. And that’s what they deliver, day in and day out — because it makes people smile.

BY LISA HOEKSTRA

CHEFS OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 35

CHEF ROBERT REYNOLDS & JENNA MOOERS EDNA RESTAURANT HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA IT’S RARE BUT IT HAPPENS — WE HAVE TWO MAVS FROM THE SAME RESTAURANT. Really, we couldn’t include one without the other, for these two are creating a stir in

Halifax’s north-end. Owner Mooers has restaurant management in her blood; her mother, Jane Wright, is famous for Jane’s on the Common, a popular Halifax hot spot until 2012. EDNA is Mooers’s baby — she launched it in 2013 after managing a small restaurant in Montreal. She collaborated with everyone on every aspect — from the designer to the chef, Robert Reynolds. Reynolds has been cooking since he was 14 (and knew he’d become a chef at the young age of 12). His resumé includes stints in England and Scotland, as well as working for Wright at Jane’s on the Common. At EDNA, these two create the complete dining package, from communal-style dishes made of local produce to the Halifax-meets-Montreal style décor. In fact, when EDNA opened its door, they started a new wave of fine dining for Halifax’s north-end.

HOW DID YOU MEET?

Mooers: I met Robert in 2004, when he first moved to Canada.

He was working at Jane’s on the Common. Our first shift together, I was actually his dishwasher — he was sous-chef. We lost contact when I moved to Montreal, but reconnected at a friend’s wedding just as I was starting renovations at EDNA.

WHY EVEN OPEN A RESTAURANT?

Mooers: I like to joke that I knew what I was getting into — having grown up with a family in the industry. But it was really just stars aligning — timing was right. It was the right location, right time and the project took on a life of its own.

WHAT MAKES A RESTAURANT SPECIAL?

Reynolds: It goes beyond just the food. I think it’s a fine balance of great, fresh, honest food, an inviting atmosphere and dedicated, happy staff.

WHY USE COMMUNAL DISHES AT EDNA?

Reynolds: We started that because we think sharing is fun. We generally only have one or two family-style items at one time.

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HOW DOES THE COMMUNAL RESTAURANT ATMOSPHERE PLAY OUT AT EDNA?

Mooers: Our communal harvest table is the centrepiece of the restaurant. It’s a very interesting table. Sometimes it’s one large group, sometimes it’s all separate tables. My favourite moments are when two groups sitting next to one another connect. I have even witnessed tables beside each other offering bites of their food to curious onlookers beside them.

IT’S EASY FOR RESTAURANTS LIKE YOURS TO GET FRESH/QUALITY INGREDIENTS — CAN YOU STILL COOK SOMETHING GOOD WITH FROZEN OR GROCERY STORE INGREDIENTS?

Reynolds: Campbell’s mushroom soup braised pork chops with frozen green peas is a childhood favourite that I still make at home today.

ROBERT’S SEAFOOD CHOWDER WITH BULWARK CIDER

1 cup onion

4 cloves garlic, chopped 1/2 cup leeks 1/2 cup carrot 1/2 cup celery 3/4 cup unsalted butter 750 ml Bulwark Apple Cider, Nova Scotia (or another hard, dry cider) 3/4 cup white flour

1 l milk

1 l 35% cream

3 bay leaves

1 lb mussels 20 medium hard shell clams or quahogs 1/2 lb halibut

2 large yellow-fleshed potatoes, boiled until soft 1/2 lb lobster meat Chopped chives and dill, for garnish 1. Dice onions, garlic, leeks, carrots and celery.

2. Add 1/2 cup butter to a saucepan over medium heat. Sweat

the vegetables until soft.

3. Add 500 ml cider and reduce until almost all liquid has evaporated.

4. Add flour to the pan and stir. Cook while stirring for 2 minutes.

5. Add milk and cream; bring to a simmer until thickened.

Add bay leaves.

6. Clean mussels and clams: rinse well with lots of water.

7. Add remaining 250 ml of Bulwark Cider to a large pot with a tight fitting lid.

8. Add mussels and clams. Steam over high heat until all shells have opened.

9. Strain seafood and reserve the steaming liquid. Once cooled, remove all seafood from shells.

10. Strain steaming liquid through a fine cheesecloth to remove any sand or grit.

11. Add liquid to chowder base. Add all shellfish to the chowder.

12. Finely dice halibut, potatoes and lobster, and add to chowder. Simmer to a light boil.

13. Top with chives and dill when serving.

14. Serve with warm buttermilk biscuits and butter.

MATCH: Open a bottle of Tidal bay white of course.

OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 37

CHEF KAZUO AKUTSU KAZU RESTAURANT MONTREAL, QUEBEC IF YOU’VE EVER WONDERED WHETHER OR NOT ALL JAPANESE FOOD IS SUSHI, WONDER NO FURTHER. Akutsu has proven that Japanese cuisine is so much more. His izakaya-style restaurant, Kazu, in the heart of Montreal was the first of many new family-style Japanese restaurants to pop up in Canada. Akutsu and his wife Yuko opened Kazu together to show us Canadians that Japanese cuisine has more dimension and excitement than raw fish in seaweed provides. From the limited seating (there are lineups out down the street even during a weekday) to the handwritten menus to the homemade ice cream and delicious iced green tea, Akutsu reveals the true nature of a Japanese family dinner, with his own unique twists.

WHAT EXACTLY IS AN IZAKAYA?

Izakaya is a family restaurant offering small things, like tapas, for five or six dollars. When I go to restaurants with small portions, I find it difficult — two bites and you’re done. I like to serve big portions because guests can share, so we have big portions here.

WHAT MADE YOU DECIDE TO OPEN KAZU?

Because there were so many Japanese restaurants, but they were either just sushi or weren’t true Japanese cuisine. The other restaurants changed the food so it wasn’t Japanese anymore. We wanted to make traditional, family-style Japanese cuisine served in a comfortable setting.

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WHY HAVE YOU KEPT THE RESTAURANT SMALL, INSTEAD OF EXPANDING?

We are able to make quality food in a small setting. If we expanded, the food we prepared wouldn’t be the same. This place is good because we seat 30 people and have five people in the kitchen. It’s easy to serve people quickly; they don’t have to wait.

If we expanded, there would be more people and no communication with the customers. Staying small allows us to keep the restaurant comfortable.

IT’S SAID THAT YOUR BROTHS AND SAUCES ARE AMAZING — WHAT MAKES THEM DIFFERENT?

They are traditional Japanese recipes, but I’ll add a little spice to them, maybe some chilli or other spices. Japanese cuisine doesn’t have spices, only wasabi. Sushi is the only spicy dish.

So I like to incorporate spices to the traditional recipes, to make them better.

WHAT IS YOUR MOST FAVOURITE MOMENT AT KAZU?

When we first opened, we didn’t have many visitors.

But after one week, we had a lineup out the door. We were so happy.

WHAT INSPIRES YOUR NEW RECIPES? Every day I wake up thinking about food and write it down on paper. Food and new recipes are always on my mind. We serve traditional-style Japanese cuisine, but I get creative with it. I worked at a French restaurant and an Italian one and add those styles into the mix — but the taste is pure Japanese.

CAN ANYONE LEARN TO COOK LIKE YOU?

My cooking is made from the heart. People need to cook with their heart and the food they make will be delicious.

OKONOMIYAKI 80 g flour 120 ml water

2 tbsp soy sauce 200 g cabbage, minced to 1cm 150 g small shrimp

2 medium eggs Mayonnaise Okonomiyaki sauce (see recipe below) Mixed green salad Aonori (aka green laver) Dried bonito flakes Red pickled ginger Tempura flakes 1. In a bowl, mix flour, water and soy sauce. Add cabbage and stir 20 times. Then add eggs and shrimp, and stir 10 times.

2. Heat oil in a pan over medium heat. Pour in the mixture and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until well browned. Flip and cook the other side for 5 to 6 minutes.

3. Remove from heat and put on a plate. Cover with mayonnaise and Okonomiyaki sauce; garnish with mixed green salad, aonori, bonito flakes, red ginger and tempura flakes — as much as you like!

MATCH: Serve with a light lager.

OKONOMIYAKI SAUCE

Mix together: 1 tsp ketchup, 1/2 tsp Worcestershire sauce, 1/2 tsp Tonkatsu sauce, 1/2 tsp soy sauce and 1/2 tsp honey.

Use in recipe above or as a Japanese barbecue sauce (because that’s what it is).

OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 39

CHEF EDGAR GUTIERREZ ROSTIZADO EDMONTON, ALBERTA

A FILIPINO CHEF FAMOUS FOR CHANGING THE PERCEPTION OF MEXICAN FOOD IN EDMONTON — SOUNDS HARD TO BELIEVE, BUT IT’S TRUE. Gutierrez and his partners, Dani

Braun and Chris Sills, created Tres Carnales to provide street-food inspired Mexican cuisine to Edmontonians. On the wings of their success, they decided to push further and show their community exactly what Mexican food is all about and Rostizado was born. Fine dining meets the kitchen of a Latino mother in this mid-century Mexican restaurant. They make family-shared dishes with melt-in-your mouth roasts, salsas and churros that make you want to shout for more.

WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT COOKING? I love creating and infusing flavours from different cultures. The way our senses can bring back memories from childhood, travel and life experiences is so special. It’s a real privilege to get to cook for people for a living!

WHAT PROMPTED YOU TO MOVE AWAY FROM FINE DINING TOWARD THE MORE RELAXED STREET FOOD AND FAMILY-STYLE FORMAT?

I started cooking street-style food because I love to eat it. It was such a ritual growing up in the Philippines. Together, neighbours visit street vendors selling Banana-Q’s, Fish Balls on a Stick and Balut (duck embryo) — and it becomes a real social eating ritual.

Hot, fast food with tons of flavour. It’s incredible.

Dining family-style is truly my favourite. Passing big platters around, bountiful family gatherings, lots of storytelling, ribbing and laughter. Food really is love.

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HOW DID YOU MEET CHRIS SILLS AND DANIEL BRAUN, AND WHY DID THE THREE OF YOU DECIDE TO LAUNCH TRES CARNALES?

We all worked together at a local steakhouse; Chris and I entertained the idea around starting a food truck. We both went separate ways for a few years and one day I got a call from Chris about Dani coming to him with a taco shop concept. It was a no brainer — I was IN. We started researching Mexican food, with Dani taking the lead since he’s from León. When we came back to Edmonton, we started Tres Carnales Taquería and the rest is history. We are all so blessed to have found a way to reconnect and start something special.

WHEN YOU, CHRIS AND DANIEL WERE PLANNING YOUR NEXT VENTURE, WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO OPEN ROSTIZADO INSTEAD OF OPENING A NEW LOCATION FOR TRES CARNALES?

We started Rostizado so we can show a different side and a more modern way for Mexican cooking. Edmontonians really embraced us and our food. It was the perfect time to show our interpretation of traditional Mexican food made modern.

HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT BEING CITED AS “LARGELY RESPONSIBLE FOR CHANGING THE GENERAL PERCEPTION OF MEXICAN FOOD” IN EDMONTON? Oh wow — it’s so humbling and we are all so thankful for the support. Mexican food was starting to evolve, with new restaurants opening all over the world that honour authentic Mexican flavours and preparation (not Tex-Mex or fast food). I’m so proud when I look up from the line and see the Mexican community dining with us.

I feel like we’ve accomplished something really special.

WHAT ROLE DOES SOCIAL MEDIA PLAY IN YOUR LIFE AND IN YOUR KITCHEN?

In my personal life, I’m pretty low-key on social media.

I really don’t have time for it because I’m working so much but for Tres Carnales and Rostizado, sharing new menu items, daily specials and everyday goings on in the kitchen is really important. Our fans are so engaged and send us so much love online. It not only keeps me and my kitchen inspired to keep putting out delicious, mouth-watering dishes — we love to use social media to express our thanks and shout-outs.

A RESTAURANT IS MORE THAN JUST ITS MAIN DISHES. WHAT DO YOU DO TO ENSURE THAT THE SIDE DISHES ARE AS IMPRESSIVE AS THE MAINS AND WHY?

I treat all ingredients the same, whether its huitlacoche or foie gras, with respect. It doesn’t matter how much it costs or if it’s the hot new trend — the bottom line is that there’s a good chance, before it was on my cutting board, that many, many people were involved in getting it to me. With that in mind, when my team and I are creating new sides to accompany our signature RostiPollo and RostiPuerco, we think about all those people and making them proud of the work they do. We hope showcasing their products in the best way possible keeps them doing what they are passionate about each day.

FLAN DE QUESO MAKES 10 RAMEKINS (4 OZ)

250 g cream cheese (room temperature)

16 eggs

3 cans Carnation Evaporated Milk

3 cans Eagle Brand Condensed Milk

1 tbsp vanilla extract

1 cup sugar 1/2 cup water 1/2 cup toasted almonds, slivered 1. Pre-heat oven to 350°F. 2. In a blender, combine cream cheese, eggs, evaporated

milk, condensed milk and vanilla. Blend for 3 minutes at medium speed.

3. Strain mixture using a fine sieve and place in a cooler or fridge for 1 hour.

4. Make caramel by mixing sugar and water in a pot. Place on the stove and let simmer for 10 minutes, or until golden brown.

DO NOT STIR. Handle with care.

5. Pour equal amounts of caramel in ramekins or moulds and let stand for 5 minutes.

6. After sugar has set, pour cheese mixture into the ramekins.

Place in a bain marie and place in the oven for 30 to 45 min.

7. Let cool for 24 hours, covered.

8. Take a thin knife and run it along the side of the custard (between the custard and the ramekin); flip the ramekin upside down onto a plate. Top with toasted almonds and enjoy.

MATCH: Don’t overwhelm this delicate dish with an overly sweet sticky. Open a bottle of sparkling or a Moscato d’Asti.

OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 41

CHEF NICK NUTTING WOLF IN THE FOG TOFINO, BRITISH COLUMBIA

NUTTING WENT FROM BIG-CITY LIVING, WORKING IN CALGARY AND MONTREAL, TO FORAGING HIS OWN MUSHROOMS IN SMALL-TOWN TOFINO — AND HE COULDN’T BE HAPPIER. This tiny town is perched on the edge of Vancouver Island’s west coast looking over the Pacific Ocean. There, Nutting gets to follow his passion to honour fresh, local ingredients and let them sing in his cooking. While the way he cooks hasn’t changed from the big-city style, the presentation has made its mark. Casual and communal, guests can chat and share as they enjoy delicious dishes fresh from the ocean. The result is an influx of tourists that make their way around the winding road to Tofino just to get the Wolf in the Fog experience.

WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT COOKING?

I love both the creative and the technical aspects of cooking, and also the rush of busy service. I’m lucky to have a great team — we have a lot of fun in our kitchen.

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HOW DID YOU GET INVOLVED IN THE PROJECT WITH ANDRE MCGILLIVRAY AND JORGE BARANDIARAN? All three of us were looking to move away from “fine dining” and create a unique restaurant that showcases the cuisine and vibe of Tofino.

× For more on this year’s (and past) Mavs visit quench.me/mavericks/

CHEF NICK NUTTING’S CARROT GNOCCHI WITH HAZELNUTS AND GOUDA CHEESE SERVES 4

HOW OFTEN DO YOU CHANGE UP THE MENU AND WHY MAKE THESE CHANGES? Our menu is based heavily on what’s available at our doorstep.

We have amazing seafood, produce and foraged mushrooms. We aren’t really following trends here, just inspiring ingredients. We change our menu with the seasons to go with the freshest local ingredients, plus we will switch up dishes on a whim if there is something new available.

WHAT ROLE DOES SOCIAL MEDIA PLAY IN YOUR LIFE AND IN YOUR KITCHEN?

I can’t say it’s a huge part of our lives ... but we take photos of dishes and drinks to share on social media. A lot of people like seeing what’s cooking in Tofino.

A RESTAURANT IS MORE THAN JUST ITS MAIN DISHES — IS THERE ANYTHING SPECIAL YOU DO TO ENSURE THAT THE SIDE DISHES ARE AS IMPRESSIVE AS THE MAINS? Everything we put on our menu has a lot of care and thought put into it. From a side of fries to a platter of fish to share, we take a lot of pride in doing things right.

IT’S EASY FOR RESTAURANTS LIKE YOURS TO GET FRESH PRODUCE. CAN YOU STILL COOK SOMETHING GOOD WITH FROZEN OR GROCERY STORE INGREDIENTS? Good produce makes cooking easy. It takes a little more work to create outstanding dishes from “not so perfect” produce, but it can be done. I’m always up for a good black box challenge with grocery store ingredients.

4 russet potatoes, skin pierced with a paring knife

1 heaped tbsp carotene (see recipe below)

1 egg 2-3 cups all-purpose flour

2 tbsp unsalted butter Sautéed mixed wild mushrooms

1/4 cup each: roasted carrots and onions

1/4 cup Gouda cheese Garnish: chives, celery leaves and toasted hazelnuts 1. Bake potatoes in oven at 375°F for 1 1/2 to 2 hours until soft. Rice the potatoes into a medium-sized mixing bowl using a potato ricer (or mash really well if you don’t have a ricer).

2. Form a well in the centre of the processed potato and add carotene and egg while the mixture is hot.

Mix gently until evenly coloured throughout.

3. Fold in flour and mix gently until it forms a soft but workable dough.

4. Form gnocchi by rolling dough into a 1/2-inch thick log and cutting into 1-inch cylinders. Blanch the gnocchi in salted water until they float, then leave them floating for another 30 seconds. Reserve on an oiled tray.

5. To finish, melt butter in a sauté pan. Add gnocchi and cook until golden. Add sautéed wild mushrooms, pre-roasted carrots and onions.

6. Top with Gouda cheese and gratinée under the broiler. Garnish with celery leaves, chives and toasted hazelnuts.

CAROTENE

Juice fresh carrots until you have about 8 1/2 cups.

Put juice in a tall pot with a squeeze of lemon juice and bring to a low simmer. The carotene will separate from the clear liquid; strain through a coffee filter to capture it. Though not ideal, you can also do this with store-bought carrot juice. × OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 43

BLENDING IN

by Tod Stewart

I was sure we nailed it.

A careful selection of the component spirits painstakingly sampled in laboratory pipette measured into a graduated cylinder. The millilitres recorded before the contents added to a beaker. Then swirled and emptied into a waiting tasting glass. The contents nosed to determine the experimental blend’s proximity to the “real deal” — the “control sample” in the other tasting glass beside me. A little heavy on the caramel/honey notes, I judge. A squirt of a smoky malt, and a dollop of another with a grainier/cereal quality to counterbalance.

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Smell. Compare.

Getting there ... definitely getting there, but still a touch on the heavy side. Just a smidge of a lighter, more neutral sample to tone things down a wee bit.

Smell. Compare.

Ah, okay ... so close, but off by just one or two notes. Where’s that component sample with the slightly fruity, pear-like note? Right ... a little of that. “Careful,” my blending partner (BP) cautions as I, with a slightly shaking hand, administer but two drops (two drops!) directly into our final amalgam.

Smell. Compare. Smell. Compare. Pass to BP. Smell. Compare. “I can’t tell the difference. I think we nailed it!” Pass to a bystander in the crowd who’s been watching all this go down. “Wow. That’s pretty good.

You’ve pretty much nailed it!”

Pass to the judge. Smell. We did not nail it.

In hindsight, I shouldn’t have even expected I’d be able to replicate the blend that makes up The Famous Grouse Blended Scotch whisky. They say that spirit blending takes the work of both an artist and a scientist. I am neither.

Now, I’ve been subjected to the organoleptically humbling “blending exercise” on several occasions. With the Metaxa Master Blender in sunny Greece. With the Mount Gay Rum Master Blender in sunny Barbados. My first-ever blending exercise (and, as I recall, one of my first ever professional wine events) was trying to duplicate the “recipe” for the German wine Blue Nun [see page 29] in Toronto (where I recall it being at least partially sunny). I’m sure there were more. Most have been mentally blocked, as the mind can only tolerate a finite number of crushing failures.

The Famous Grouse Defeat (henceforth, TFGD), however, was the last pipette (as it were). I will no longer participate in such sadomasochistic “exercises,” no matter how sunny the locale or how gracious the host.

I mean, seriously, even the dreaded “blind” wine tasting offers more opportunities for a possible ego inflating win than a spirit blend-off. “I guessed the colour right!” can, at the end of it all, count as a victory. In any case, it got me wondering as to whether anyone could replicate a spirit blend close to perfect-

ly. (Yeah, yeah, okay ... the guy who did come out primo must have done a fair bit better than me. Ditto for the guy who came secondo. And, like, no, I’m not saying the judge could have been bribed or anything like that.)

Consider: the point of the art/science/frustration of spirit blending is twofold. First, it’s to create a sort of liquid gestalt, where the blend turns out to be something magically different than its component parts. The second is to be able to recreate this consistently, day in day out. Most spirits are, in fact, blends.

Whether you’re blending whisky, brandy, rum or tequila, you’ll be shooting for a common goal (though you may go about it somewhat differently).

“The common objective [in blending] is to obtain a product that conforms to a standard,” confirms Karina Sanchez, Global Brand Ambassador for the tequila producer Casa Sauza. “For a specific [type of ] spirit, the blending process has unique details related to customs and legal constraints, production and warehousing processes, approval criteria and so on.”

These blends are typically closely guarded secret recipes, sometimes passed down from hand to hand. Could someone who’s not a part of the covenant of the Master Blender/Knights Templar/Masonic Orders in general, ever be able to duplicate a successful blend?

Maybe it isn’t possible. Maybe trying to replicate a blend is a mug’s game.

So I asked a few Master Blenders this: Is trying to replicate a blend a mug’s game? To which they replied: Yeah, pretty much.

See, even if you had all the exact component liquids and mixed them in the exact proportions, you still wouldn’t get the exact blend. Here’s why: Remember when you were a kid? And you had a hamster? And you got another one? And you wanted to introduce Hamster A to Hamster B (for whatever reason)? And your parents told you that first you had to put their cages together so the two rodents could “get to know each other”? And how instead you just dumped the two into one cage and were treated, for a few fleeting seconds, to the spectacle of a single, eight-legged squealing, spitting, flailing ball of airborne claws and incisors before being rewarded with a more or less immobile lump of shredded fur and hamster tartar? Right? Remember? Okay, if you just dump a bunch of spirits together in a beaker or vat, the same thing will happen. Okay, not really the same thing. Okay, not the same thing at all. But my point is, the spirits have to get to know each other by spending some time together. They have to “marry.”

Spirit blenders have been likened to marriage counsellors in many instances, or at least in one instance I know of for sure. In the book Goodness Nose, Richard Patterson, Master Blender for Whyte & MacKay scotch, reveals this about blending: “Not all of the whiskies will immediately fall in love with each other. Indeed, some may be totally incompatible. The boisterous, younger malts may simply flirt, only to go their separate ways. The chosen whiskies must be given time to court, time to sort out their differences and to make the necessary compromises before a perfect partnership is achieved.” Somehow my hamster analogy doesn’t sound so goofy anymore.

“The blends have to marry or mature before being bottled,” explains Michel Casavecchia, Cellar Master for Château de Cognac (the distiller of the Baron Otard and Gaston de Lagrange OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 45

“Every blend is created following the same philosophy.”

Constantine Raptis, Metaxa

cognacs). “We need to ensure the components of each blend will get together and achieve the balance we seek for the final blend.

The older the ingredients of the blend, the longer this marrying period will be.” He points out that this period can last anywhere from three months to over a year, depending on the age of the components. Kind of like people, I guess. The older you get, the more time it takes to find a harmonious relationship.

Of course, all this marrying, conjugating, getting-to-knoweach-other stuff happens after the blender has worked his or her magic. Before this stage, the blender not only has to select the spirits that will best work together to create a final product, but also ensure that there is sufficient stock of the components on hand to recreate this product in the volume required on a regular basis. While general blending principles pretty much apply to all blended spirits, there are subtleties. A blender of scotch will typically work with a range of malts of varying ages sourced from a number of distilleries, as well as more neutral grain whiskies. A Canadian whisky blender typically works with only his own distillery’s stock, but still has to determine the ratio not only of ages, but also of the proportion of “base” whiskies mixed with more intense “flavouring” whiskies.

It’s worth noting, at this point, that even “single malt” whiskies are, in reality, blends. However, the blend, in this situation, would be made up of stock from a single distillery’s warehouse. Should the whisky carry an age statement, that age indicates the youngest spirit in the blend. An age statement of “10 Years” does not preclude there being some much older whiskies in the mix. As always, though, there are variants depending on the spirit being combined.

“At Mount Gay, we don’t rely on physical age to determine the aromatic quality of our blends,” reveals Allen Smith, Master Blender for Mount Gay Rum. “Rather, we rely on the maturity level of the rum in each barrel in the warehouse.” Smith notes that for a rum like Mount Gay Black Barrel, he looks for rums that generally fall in the two to seven year range. “How46 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

ever, if there is an older rum, say an eight-year-old in physical age, but has the characteristics that we seek in Black Barrel, such as the right peppery, vanilla or smoke nuances, we will absolutely use it for the blend.”

Martine Pain, Cellar Master at St Rémy, the French brandy producer with roots stretching back to 1886, echoes Smith’s sentiments, noting, too, that with brandy, “each producer’s secret recipe determines the proportions of all the eaux-de-vie that comprise the final product,” and that outside of the legal requirements surrounding age statements, “no rule applies” when it comes to the development of the final blend.

While there may be no set “rules,” blenders work much like chefs — or composers for that matter. Each spirit brings a unique note to the final composition. The talent of the blender is being able to select between a wide range of aromatic and taste profiles — dictated by sample age, wood types, alcoholic strengths and so forth — and craft them into a liquid where no single note dominates.

Be it rum, whisky, brandy or tequila, once the blender is satisfied with the profile of the new blend — or the proximity to the “standard” is so close that no differences can be detected — the blend is ready to be replicated on a commercial scale. However, given the advances in modern science and technology, I wondered how important the human senses are in the finalizing process, especially when it comes to duplicating a pre-existing blend. Surely in the world of spectrometers and the like, this task would be best handled by machines. Or so I thought.

“The human nose is our most important tool as no technology is able to replace it,” emphasizes Nicolas Villalon, Edrington Portfolio Ambassador (Brugal Rum, Highland Park, The Macallan, The Famous Grouse). “We do use some technology in order to the determine the quantities of various components of the whiskies but, ultimately, each batch has to be approved by our Master Blender’s nose and, subsequently, palate.”

In fact, of the half dozen or so Master Blenders, Cellar Masters, and Brand Ambassadors I spoke to, all were unanimous in asserting that while technology can offer assistance, it is ultimately human senses that dictate the final blend. “So far, there is no modern technology that has managed to replace the talent of men and women Cellar Masters,” confirms Anne Sarteaux, Cellar Master for French brandy producer De Valcourt. “Of course, there are analyses that ensure the organoleptic components serving as support for the daily work, but only the human palate identifies the subtlety of the eaux-de-vie which make up the final blend.”

Once this blend has been settled on, it’s time for the Master Blender to unleash it on a thirsty world. This basically involves recreating the blend by the barrel, rather than by the beaker. But it’s not quite as simple as a straight swapping of barrels for millilitres.

“To start, each blend is elaborated in our laboratories with graduated test tubes,” explains Sarteaux. “Then we select the available blends that we regularly test. We then develop the blend on a larger scale, always testing the organoleptic quality.

Each selection is then tasted. Lastly, we test our brands blind with an independent and expert consultant.”

Constantine Raptis heads up perhaps one of the most intricate blending regimes. As Metaxa Master, Raptis blends spirits, wines, and a special aromatic component together to create the signature spirit of Greece.

“I create Metaxa by bringing together aged distillates, Muscat wines from the Aegean islands and a secret bouquet of May Roses and Mediterranean herbs,” Raptis reveals. “Every blend is created following the same philosophy. The first step is to collect, evaluate and record all the information (years of aging, origin, organoleptic characteristics) of every cask where distillates are left to age. Then, based on my experience and — sometimes-smallscale tests — I decide which cask will be used for the specific blend. The content of the casks is emptied in a tank and stirred.

The new blend is then tested and if needed, I may add some specific distillate to achieve the final character of the blend that I am looking for. Usually my blends are 20,000 or 70,000 litres, depending on the Metaxa style that I want to create.”

Consistent flavour is what a blender obviously aims for, but just as different casks will bring different nuances in flavour and taste, colour consistency also has to be considered and typically, adjusted. Raptis explains: “Every blend is created with distillates of different aging that may have certain variations in their appearance. Therefore, every final blend may present slight colour variations that are adjusted by the addition of natural caramel colour. This step is important so as to maintain stable all the other organoleptic qualities of the blends.”

The addition of natural caramel colour is standard practice in the blended spirits industry, and it has no impact on the final taste of a brown spirit.

Like the end product itself, the art and science of spirit blending is complex. But whether they are mingling whisky, rum, tequila, brandy or exotic elixirs like Metaxa, the aim of the blender is the same — consistency and uniqueness in aroma, flavour and colour. The Master Blenders and Cellar Masters use both talent and time to ensure that, as a spirit aficionado, you can be confident that the second bottle you buy will be every bit as enjoyable as the first one.

BRANDY BARON OTARD COGNAC VSOP ($80) As the pedigree and age levels increase, so does the complexity (and, sorry, price). This is very elegant stuff with layers of sweet citrus fruit, exotic vanilla bean and Asian spice, buttressed by suggestions of new leather, fresh oak and orange zest. Smooth, clean, very long and spicy/fruity as it tails out.

SCOTCH THE FAMOUS GROUSE BLENDED SCOTCH WHISKY ($28) While it’s always the blender’s secret as to what malts and grain whiskies make up the blend, The Famous Grouse (the best-selling scotch in Scotland for quite some time now) is owned by the Edrington Group — which also owns The Macallan and Highland Park. So, just sayin’. Floral, honeyed heather notes with a dash of lemon oil and malt. Fairly gentle and smooth, but with some nice fruity/grainy/malty nuances and a dash of spice on the finish.

LAPHROAIG QUARTER CASK ($70) Even single malts are blends of different years and casks. In this case, the whisky is “double matured,” first in standard-size barrels, then in barrels one quarter of the size. Peat smoke, lemon oil, kelp, brine, mild iodine and cocoa all feature in the aroma of this assertive dram, along with hints of toasted barley and nuts. Warm and smoky in the mouth with traces of buckwheat honey and a very long, peat-tinged finish. Assertive yet balanced and harmonious.

TEQUILA HORNITOS BLACK BARREL ($35) The newest offering from Hornitos takes añejo tequila (oak aged for 12 months) and introduces it to deeply charred barrels for 4 months, then into toasted oak barrels for a final 2 months. The result is rather unique. Whisky notes are definitely there (caramel, toasted oak), but they don’t mask the baked agave aromas. Cherry/vanilla cola, ginger, nutmeg, and pepper also make appearances. Zippy spice in the mouth, along with sweet/smoky oak, tobacco leaf, caramel and cooked agave nuances.

RUM EL DORADO 8 YEAR OLD DEMERARA RUM ($30)/EL DORADO 12 YEAR OLD FINEST DEMERARA RUM ($36) It’s an interesting exercise to compare the two expressions of this beautiful rum side-by-side. The 12 year is (not surprisingly) noticeably darker to the eye. Aromatically, it shows notes of walnut, wood polish, nutmeg, marzipan and a slight earthiness.

The 8 year is fruitier with candied orange peel, vanilla, toffee and singed brown sugar. In the mouth, the younger version is mildly spicy with traces of crème caramel, vanilla and nougat, whereas the 12 year is silkier, nuttier, considerably more complex and longer on the finish. But take whichever one you can get! × OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 47

BOUQUET GARNI BY NANCY JOHNSON

A HACK IN THE KITCHEN

I’M JUST NOT SURE ABOUT SOME OF THE WORDS CREEPING INTO THE CULINARY DICTIONARY. Take

“hack,” for instance. What does that mean exactly? I thought a hack was a dull, uninspiring journalist ... not that I’ve ever been called one, at least not recently. When used as a verb, hacking is that thing hackers do to your computer to steal your identity. But now suddenly a hack is a good thing, a way to save you time or money or let you perform in the kitchen like a swashbuckling Iron Chef. I gotta say, it sounds like a good deal to me. I’m in.

So when I eventually hack my way to the kitchen, the following are the tasty concoctions I will make, including the culinary hacks that get me there — hacks, I might add, that are anything but hackneyed.

MARINADES

This is a hack as old as time. In my mother’s day, good old store-bought Italian dressing was the marinade of choice but things have gotten fancier since the ‘60s.

Marinades add flavour and tenderize.

As a rule, fish and seafood should be marinated for 1 hour. Meat and poultry can be marinated 4 hours or overnight.

LEMON MARINADE: To get the most juice

out of a lemon, roll it on the counter a few times. If you have leftover lemons, juice them, zest them and freeze both separately. In a medium saucepan, cook 2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil, zest of 1 lemon, 3 bay leaves, 3 rosemary sprigs and 1/2 tsp freshly ground pepper. Remove from heat; add 1/4 tsp kosher salt, 1/3 cup fresh lemon juice, 1/3 cup water. Great as a 1-hour marinade for fish or a 4-hour marinade for pork. Grill or roast. Serve with Riesling.

SRIRACHA MARINADE: Stir together

1/2 cup low-sodium soy sauce, 1/4 cup rice vinegar, 1/4 cup brown sugar, 1 tbsp Sriracha sauce, 1 tbsp minced garlic.

Pour over sliced beef tenderloin or other tender steak. Marinate 4 hours. Thread meat on skewers and broil or grill until medium-rare. Serve with Zinfandel.

48 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

× Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on quench.me/recipes/

CHICKEN BROTH

My favourite hack is having homemade broth on hand. It takes time to simmer but is actually quite easy to make and is liquid gold in your freezer. In a pinch, I use good-quality, low-salt packaged chicken broth and freeze any leftover broth for later.

When making broth from scratch, be sure to chill strained broth in refrigerator overnight. The hardened layer of fat will be easy to remove. Find a myriad of chicken broth recipes online, but basically you just cook a whole chicken in water with a lot of veggies for about 3 to 4 hours.

MISO SOUP: Bring broth to a boil. Whisk in a spoonful or two of miso paste. Add cubed tofu (I prefer firm). Simmer until heated through.

Garnish with minced scallions. Serve with green tea or sake.

CANNELLINI BEAN SOUP: Bring broth to a boil. Stir in a can of

drained cannellini beans and baby spinach or kale. Add a can of drained diced tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper. Simmer until heated through. Serve topped with homemade croutons or cooked crumbled bacon. Good with a Canadian beer.

CHOPPING BROCCOLI: When using broccoli crowns only, I

freeze the stalks for soup. The soup is actually silkier without those little florets all over the place. Bring broth to a boil. Add a couple peeled and diced potatoes, sliced broccoli stems and chopped onion. Bring to a boil and simmer until vegetables are tender. Add some milk and shredded cheese, stirring until cheese melts. Purée in food processor. Serve topped with caramelized shallots. Serve with Sauvignon Blanc.

NEW YORK SPAGHETTI SAUCE: It’s the butter that makes this sauce! Sauté a diced onion, minced garlic and sliced mushrooms in olive oil. Add a few tablespoons of tomato paste and 1 can San Marzano tomatoes with juice. Chop tomatoes right in the pot with scissors. Cook about 5 minutes. Add 1 cup chicken broth; bring to a boil and simmer, uncovered, 20 minutes. Add a handful of chopped fresh basil. Stir in 6 tbsp butter. Season with salt and pepper. Serve over fresh angel hair pasta and pour a Chianti.

Freeze any leftover basil — or any fresh herbs for that matter — in olive oil in an ice cube tray.

EGGS

If I have eggs in the kitchen, I’ve got dinner. From eggs benny to spaghetti carbonara, eggs are a most versatile and nutritious ingredient. There are so many kitchen hacks involving eggs that I’d need to write a book to include them all. The latest hack is draping fried eggs over everything from hearty beef steaks to ham sandwiches to delicate mesclun salads.

CRACKING DISASTER: When cracking an egg, if a little bit of

shell goes with it, scoop it out with the larger portion of cracked shell. Works like a magnet!

POACH: Poach eggs in disposable foil cupcake liners coated with

non-stick spray. Place in skillet, add water so it’s even with eggs and poach, covered, over medium heat about 5 minutes or until set to desired consistency.

BAKE: Bake eggs in the oven in a nest of creamed spinach.

Make hollows and crack 1 egg into each hollow. Bake at 350˚F until eggs are set.

HARD BOIL: Cover eggs with water, bring to a boil and remove

from heat. Cover and let sit 15 minutes. Peel under running water, pat dry, chop and toss with cooked potatoes or macaroni, minced celery, sweet pickles and red onion. Add mayo, salt, pepper and paprika. Or halve eggs and whip egg yolks with mayo, a dab of Dijon mustard and a pinch of salt. Stuff back into egg halves for devilled eggs. Most egg dishes are great with Champagne or unoaked Chardonnay.

FAST, FRESH, EASY

No matter how many hacks I learn, the most valuable hack will always be a recipe file of fast, fresh and easy entrées that make cooking a breeze. Here are a few of my favourites.

BAKED FISH WITH BREAD CRUMBS: Whenever I make honey white bread in my bread maker, or any kind of bread for that matter, I turn the leftover stale bread into crumbs and freeze them. Spread halibut, snapper or flounder fillets with mayonnaise. Season bread crumbs with onion or celery salt, freshly ground pepper, garlic powder, Parmesan cheese, a pinch of dried herbs and paprika. Press onto fish. Bake at 425˚F until cooked through. Serve with Chenin Blanc.

BROWN BUTTER RAVIOLI: In a saucepan, melt 1/2 cup unsalted butter over medium heat, swirling the pan occasionally. After the butter foams and has settled, the solids will begin to darken. When butter turns a caramel colour and has a nutty aroma, remove from heat. Pour over cooked cheese or beef ravioli.

Serve with Chardonnay.

COCONUT CHICKEN WITH TWO DIPPING SAUCES: Dredge chicken fillets in flour, then beaten eggs, then a mixture of panko and unsweetened coconut. Place chicken in baking pan that has been coated with cooking spray. Bake at 450˚F until chicken is done, about 15 to 20 minutes. Make sweet and sour dipping sauce: In a medium saucepan, whisk 1 cup pineapple juice, 1/2 cup brown sugar, 1/3 cup water, 1/4 cup cider vinegar, 1 tbsp soy sauce and 3 tbsp cornstarch. Can also add pineapple tidbits or crushed pineapple. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly until thick and bubbly. Make Sriracha mayonnaise: Stir together 1 tsp Sriracha sauce with 1/2 cup mayonnaise, 2 tsp rice vinegar and 2 tsp soy sauce.

Serve with Gewürztraminer.

SPEEDY SHREDDED PORK: Rub 2 well-trimmed pork tenderloins

with a mixture of 1 tsp chili powder, 1 tsp paprika and 1 tsp garlic powder. In large skillet, heat 1 tbsp canola oil. Add pork and cook over medium-high heat about 5 minutes per side or until cooked through. Remove from skillet, tent with foil and let rest 5 minutes. Using 2 forks, shred pork. Serve with barbecue sauce on toasted buns. Good with a craft beer.

For more kitchen hacks see page 10 of the September 2015 issue. ×

OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 49

PREP

CHARRED

CHEF NICK NUTTING’S CHARRED HUMBOLDT SQUID WITH VIETNAMESE SLAW SERVES 4

FOR THE HUMBOLDT SQUID

MAVERICK CHEF NICK NUTTING brings the ocean alive in his Tofino restaurant (see page 42).

This squid recipe is simple yet chalk full of flavour.

2

2

2

2

1

4

12

1

tsp fish sauce tsp ginger, minced tsp garlic, minced tsp sambal tsp lime zest sprigs cilantro, picked oz Humboldt Squid, cleaned and scored on both sides tsp grape seed oil Juice of 1 lime

FOR THE VIETNAMESE SLAW

1 carrot, cut lengthwise on a Japanese mandoline slicer with medium teeth 1 cucumber, cut lengthwise on a Japanese mandoline slicer with medium teeth 1/2 daikon radish, cut lengthwise on a Japanese mandoline slicer with medium teeth

1 shallot

4 leaves Thai basil

2 sprigs cilantro, picked Salt and pepper, to taste 1. Combine fish sauce, ginger and garlic, sambal, lime zest and cilantro in a mixing bowl to create dressing. Using half the dressing, marinate squid for 1 hour prior to cooking.

2. Combine sliced carrot, cucumber, daikon, shallot, Thai basil and cilantro for Vietnamese slaw and dress with remaining dressing. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

3. Preheat a sauté pan on high heat, add grape seed oil and heat until almost at smoke point. Sear squid on each side for 45 seconds. Pull pan away from heat and squeeze lime juice over squid.

4. Rest squid for 2 minutes then slice thinly. Place squid slices over slaw and serve.

MATCH: Great food should be honoured by a bubbly. Or for a more relaxed feeling try opening a Pinot Grigio from the Okanagan. × 50 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

NOTED 92 GARDET BRUT TRADITION CHAMPAGNE NV, FRANCE ($16.92/375 ML)

Medium-deep gold with lively bubbles. Aromas of mandarin orange, ripe pineapple, pastry dough and a hint of caramel. Light-bodied and fizzy with good acidity. Tastes of fresh lemon tart with lime and caramel overtones. Drink immediately. (RL)*

92 CLOS DU SOLEIL SIGNATURE 2012, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY, BC ($45)

A blend of Cab Sauv, Merlot, Cab Franc and a smidge of Petit Verdot, this winery’s top wine displays a complex array of aromas — from blackcurrants, smoky cherry and blueberry fruit to toasted cedar, vanilla and earthy/meaty notes.

On the palate, there is structure and ripe tannins to go with fully integrated dark fruits, earth and spice that are balanced and poised through the finish. (RV)

92 STAG’S HOLLOW VIOGNIER/ MARSANNE KILN HOUSE VINEYARD 2013, OKANAGAN ($25)

This is made in the “orange” wine style with skin contact, co-fermentation, low sulphur, wild fermentation, unfined and unfiltered. Such a powerful nose of lemon, peach, citrus, spice and marmalade. The look of the wine might throw you for a loop with its burnt orange colour and slight cloudy appearance but it’s a knockout on the palate with peach purée, lemon rind, ginger, papaya and evident tannins. Wow. (RV)

90 SPERLING GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2013, OKANAGAN ($21.95)

90 CANOE RIDGE THE EXPEDITION CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, HORSE HEAVEN HILLS, UNITED STATES ($24.90)

A delicious Cab from Washington State.

Deep ruby colour; blackcurrant and black cherry nose with a cedary note; full-bodied with a sweet and savoury flavour given a lift by a floral note. Nicely integrated oak and a firm finish. (TA)

90 RION LES TERRES BLANCHES NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 2011, BURGUNDY, FRANCE ($66.95) Pricey but delicious. A deep yellow straw colour with a smoky, tarry, reductive nose. Medium-bodied, spicy apple and tangerine flavours that billow on the palate sustained by lemony acidity. Elegant and beautifully balanced. (TA)

× Find a collection of tasting notes for wine, beer and spirits at quench.me/notes/

Ann Sperling is an award-winning vintner who makes wine at Southbrook in Niagara and at her family farm in BC’s Okanagan Valley. Sperling Gewürztraminer 2013 from BC has a nose of lychees, rose petal and grapefruit notes.

The wine is medium-bodied, off-dry with orange, peach and rose water flavours.

It works well with Asian dishes, light curries or as an apéritif. (TA)

FOURSQUARE RUM DISTILLERY PORT CASK FINISH, BARBADOS (US$35/750 ML)

This extremely limited rum is crafted by local legends RL Seale & Co Ltd, the last Bajan-owned rum producer on the island. Aged 3 years in former bourbon casks before mellowing in port wood for an additional 6, this aromatic spirit expresses dark cherries, tobacco, hay and an alluring funk (for those that dig a romp in the barnyard). Leather, vanilla pastry cream, cassis and oak lead the unctuous palate. (SP)

OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 51

Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category. Our scores are based on the wine's quality as well as price point. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Carefully study the commentaries to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability.

Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Sarah Parniak, Crystal Luxmore, Tim Pawsey, Silvana Lau and Jonathan Smithe.

QUENCH USES THE 100-POINT SCALE 95-100 = Exceptional 90-94 = Excellent 85-89 = Very good

80-84 = Good 75-79 = Acceptable 70 & under = Below average *Available through wine clubs

SPARKLING

percent alcohol and an off-dry profile, you can enjoy this treat anytime. Try pouring some over ripe peach slices ... for breakfast! (SL)

92 FEATHERSTONE CUVÉE JOY 2011, NIAGARA ($35)

89 RUGGERI ROSE DI PINOT BRUT NV, VENETO, ITALY ($29)

A traditionally made sparkler made from 100% estate-grown Chardonnay. This is such a delightful, yes, joyful, wine with a nose of brisk lemon, baked apple, toast, citrus and interesting yeasty-bready notes. Perfect tiny bubbles tickle the palate with a lovely mélange of citrus, toast and creamy notes all lifted by wonderful, refreshing acidity. (RV)

90 FERRARI PERLÉ 2007, TRENTO DOC, ITALY ($39.99)

This is a rich, well-structured vintage bubbly showing bottle development, elegant fruit, biscuit and light-buttery character balanced with good acidity and firm dry mineral grip. Exhibits elegance and finesse that compares favourably with more costly Champagne. (SW)

89 JACKSON-TRIGGS CHARDONNAY MUSQUÉ 2014, NIAGARA ($18) Look out Italy, you’ve just been “out-Moscatoed!” If I didn’t know this was a Niagara Chardonnay Musqué, I’d have sworn it was a yummy Italian Moscato. Ripe peach/apricot aromas, with tropical fruit and spring flowers. Fresh as a summer breeze, with apricot jam/peach juice flavours and crisp, palate-cleansing bubbles. At 8.5

52 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

Lively fresh cherry, strawberry, peaches, apricots, redcurrant and citrus flavours with dancing bubbles and an uplifting, vibrant dry finish. Will pair with just about anything and is excellent with fried foods.

A blend of predominantly Pinot Noir with Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay. (GB)

WHITE ARGENTINA 88 NORTON BARREL SELECT SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, MENDOZA ($13)

A generous, round style of lightly oaked SB with a nose of grapefruit, herbs and touches of toast and vanilla. The fruit is ripe on the palate with tropical fruits, grapefruit and oak-spice accents. (RV)

88 ALAMOS CHARDONNAY 2013, MENDOZA ($14.95)

Loads of flavour here for the price.

Straw-coloured with an apple bouquet heightened by a note of forest floor. Rich mouthfeel of tropical fruit flavours carried on lively acidity. (TA)

88 THE WINES OF CATENA ALAMOS CHARDONNAY 2013, MENDOZA ($15.99)

Lemon citrus, background tropical fruit and light toasty and buttery notes on the nose open the way for full-flavoured ripe citrus and yellow tropical fruit on the palate. Finishes with fresh acidity and contrasting nutty and lightly buttery notes.

Well balanced, harmonious and stylish.

Have with a light salad. Remember not to overdo the dressing. (SW)

AUSTRALIA 87 MCGUIGAN THE SÉMILLON BLANC 2012 ($14.99)

Lively and aromatic wine showing floral, lemon citrus and mineral character with succulent, limpid green fruit flavours on the palate. Polished, attractively balanced, very drinkable wine. Break out your favourite Thai curry recipe. (SW)

AUSTRIA 89 KURT ANGERER KIES GRÜNER VELTLINER 2013, NIEDERÖSTERREICH ($18.95)

Pale straw colour with that characteristic minerally, white-pepper GV nose; medium-bodied, crisply dry, white peach and lemon flavours with driving acidity. You can balance the acidity with veal or pork dishes. Austrian ones of course. (TA)

CANADA 93 CULMINA DILEMMA 2013, OKANAGAN ($33)

With this vintage of Culmina’s Chardonnay, the fruit is sourced from the highest elevation on the property. What a beautiful, elegant wine. The nose shows swirling pear, citrus, green apple, minerals and soft vanilla spices. It’s perfectly balanced in the mouth with complex pear-apple fruit, lightly toasted vanilla spice and freshening citrus that kicks in through the long finish. (RV)

91 PONDVIEW BELLA TERRA CHARDONNAY 2012, NIAGARA ($25)

The nose is fresh and balanced with apple, pear and citrus notes with light caramel spice and minerals. It’s elegant and balanced on the palate with ripe fruit and lightly toasted spice that offers a poised and seductive Chardonnay through the finish. (RV)

90 FLAT ROCK CELLARS RIESLING 2014, TWENTY MILE BENCH ($17.15)

Gold-medal winner in the Semi-Dry Riesling category at this year’s Ontario Wine Awards. An explosive bouquet of peach, honey, mandarin, bergamot, lime and mineral beguiles. The crisp acidity is held in check by some residual sugar, but for all intents and purposes, it comes across as a dry wine. All I kept thinking about when drinking this wine was a huge plate of sushi and sashimi. (ES)

90 FORBIDDEN FRUIT PEARSUASION 2013, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($19)

This is a dry white fruit wine made from 90% certified organic Asian pears and 10% certified organic Euro pears aged briefly in French oak. So enticing on the nose with aromas of poached pear, soft vanilla and a nice smoky ginger note. It’s rich and full-bodied on the palate with ripe and spicy pear flavours and a fairly dry profile. Don’t be afraid to swing for the fences when thinking up a match.

You’ll be pleasantly surprised. (RV)

90 ROCKWAY VINEYARDS SMALL LOT BLOCK 150-183 RIESLING 2013, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($19.95)

Don’t be put off by the very pale, almost water-white colour of this Riesling — it’s all there on the nose and palate.

Petrol, lime and honey bouquet; light-bodied, crisply dry and clean as a whistle. Good tension between sweetness and acidity. (TA)

maybe the world will discover what this grape can do in its “gris” guise. Tropical fruit, white peach, rose petal, melon and baked apple aromas create a tantalizingly complex aromatic tapestry.

Full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, with stone fruit, ripe melon, mild spice and a gentle toastiness. Easy to drink, but watch out (14 percent ABV)!

You can go for something spicy or open a simple gravlax. (SL)

90 INNISKILLIN DISCOVERY SERIES BARREL FERMENTED SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014 ($23)

89 TAWSE LIMESTONE RIDGE RIESLING 2013, TWENTY MILE BENCH ($21.95)

Barrel fermenting isn’t a path most winemakers choose when working with very aromatic varietals like Sauv Blanc.

Nevertheless, Inniskillin’s Bruce Nicholson has done a pretty commendable job with this one. Grapefruit, gooseberry, cut grass...in other words, classic SB aromas with no overwhelming oak notes. Bright, zesty grapefruit on the palate with a hint of fennel and just a bare hint of spicy oak.

Nice, crisp finish. (SL)

90 TAWSE QUARRY ROAD CHARDONNAY 2012, VINEMOUNT RIDGE ($34.95) Organic and biodynamic, the 2012 Quarry Chardonnay is an open and accessible offering with pear, anise, honey, yellow apple, pineapple and vanilla qualities. Medium body; there is excellent length and sound acidity.

Perfect with lobster and drawn butter with grilled salmon filet. (ES)

89 HENRY OF PELHAM ESTATE RIESLING 2012, SHORT HILLS BENCH ($17.95)

A textbook Niagara Riesling that bursts forth with peach, lime, apricot, pear and honey. It comes from a warm vintage, so the acids are slightly lower than usual and there is some residual sugar to balance things off. All in all, another great Riesling from the boys at HOP! (ES)

89 INNISKILLIN RESERVE PINOT GRIS 2013 ($20)

Once the infatuation with Pinot Grigio blows over (and that can’t be too soon),

Made from 15-year-old vines, this Riesling displays moderate aromas of lime, lemon, green apple and wet stone. The bright acid, slight sweetness and linear palate make for a fine partner with sautéed scallops or lighter cheeses. (ES)

89 INNISKILLIN KLOSE VINEYARD RIESLING 2014 ($25)

This single vineyard Riesling sports refreshing notes of lemon-lime, mineral, stone fruit, white flowers and just a bare touch of petrol. Racy and brisk, it’s loaded with peach pit, almond and citrus flavours and finishes with a clean, mineral-tinged edge. (SL)

89 BENJAMIN BRIDGE TIDAL BAY 2014, GASPEREAU VALLEY ($25)

Bright and fresh with peach, apricot, fresh herbs and pineapple; racy, refreshing, minerally and mouthwateringly salty.

A delicious blend of L’Acadie Blanc, Ortega and Muscat. Cries for oysters. (GB)

89 RUSTIC ROOTS FAMEUSE 2013, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($26) This is somewhere between a white and red, perhaps a sparkling rosé style of wine, made from a single, 100-yearold estate Fameuse apple tree, blended with 30% Santa Rosa plums and fermented with wild yeast. What a treat! It has a gorgeous mulled apple-plum nose with subtle caramel and red fruit notes. Lovely bubbles come into play on the palate with all that apple and plum fruit benefiting from a touch of sweetness. (RV)

OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 53

NOTED 88 TAWSE SKETCHES RIESLING 2014, NIAGARA ($17.95)

The new release of Tawse’s entry-level Riesling is a solid offering as per usual.

Peach, honey, lime, powdered candies, jasmine, crushed rock and hints of honey find themselves meshing with an electric palate of acidity. There is a hint of sweetness, which reigns everything, as well as a lengthy finale. (ES)

88 ROAD 13 CHIP OFF THE OLD BLOCK CHENIN BLANC 2014, OKANAGAN ($25)

Flavourful and refreshing with aromas and flavours of grapefruit, melon and honey. A juicy, zippy minerality, bright acidity and fresh finish. From a young vineyard planted with cuttings from the winery’s home vineyard, originally planted with Chenin Blanc in 1968, making them some of the oldest vines in the Okanagan. Look forward to seeing this vineyard mature and tasting the resulting wines. (GB)

88 OROFINO SCOUT VINEYARD RIESLING 2013, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($32)

Great focus and intensity with loads of crunchy apple, lime, tangerine and mineral; firm backbone, juicy mid-palate and bright acidity to balance the touch of residual sweetness on the finish.

While the Okanagan may be BC’s bestknown wine-growing region, it’s time to discover the quality coming from the desert surroundings of the Similkameen Valley. Great with grilled pork belly and spicy smokies. (GB)

87 KACABA UNOAKED CHARDONNAY, NIAGARA ($14.95) This pure expression of Chardonnay exudes lemon, pear, green apple, white peach and smoky minerals. On the taste buds, it is mid-weight and dry with moderate acidity and a lengthy finale. (ES)

87 INNISKILLIN DISCOVERY SERIES EAST-WEST PINOT GRIGIO/CHARDONNAY 2014 ($17) Composed of a 50/50 blend of Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay harvested from

54 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

Niagara and Okanagan vineyards. Flower blossom, green apple, pear and orange peel aromatics. Flavours of pear, mineral, apple and citrus dominate with a long, clean, apricot-tinged finish wrapping things up nicely. (SL)

86 KACABA RIESLING RESERVE 2014, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT ($17.95)

Dry, this Riesling displays moderate aromas of lime, lemon, mineral and peach. It is light and airy on the palate with fresh acidity, making it food-friendly. Pair with grilled sausages or a mustard-and-herbcrusted rack of pork. (ES)

CHILE 91 LEYDA GARUMA SINGLE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, LEYDA VALLEY ($19.95)

A classic Sauvignon Blanc from Chile’s cool-climate Leyda Valley. Pale straw colour with a gassy, gooseberry nose.

Medium-bodied, fresh and tangy on the palate, crisply dry with great length. (TA)

86 ALTO LOS ROMEROS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, VALLE CENTRALE ($12.99)

Fragrant floral and grassy herbal scent with gooseberry and a whiff of asparagus lead the way for attractive green fruit, supported by lively acidity and mineral in the mouth. Offers easy charm and very good value. (SW)

FRANCE 94 MICHEL CHAPOUTIER 2010, ERMITAGE DE L’ORÉE AC ($325.79) This rare, expensive and extraordinarily concentrated wine from the northern Rhône is 100% Marsanne. Yellow gold in colour with great depth and complexity, revealing floral notes, apricot, tropical fruit, spicy vanilla, buttery (almost butterscotch) character and rounded glycerol mouthfeel. Exotic richness is countered by stony, gravelly mineral, finishing with slight bitterness

and distinctive saltiness. Top vintages can age from 30 to 50 years and longer.

The 2010 should be cellared for at least another 3 to 5 years. (SW)

91 MAS DE DAUMAS GASSAC 2012, IGP SAINT-GUILHEM-LE-DÉSERT, LANGUEDOC ($45)

Discreet, distinguished nose of fine herbs, hot stones, white flowers and exotic fruit notes. The ample, open mid-palate fills the mouth with its rich, tasteful fruity extract, perfectly balanced. Each sip calls for another one, it’s just that delicious. (GBQc)

90 CLOS DE L’ÉPINAY CUVÉE MARCUS VOUVRAY 2012, LOIRE ($20.95)

A much under-appreciated wine category.

This Chenin Blanc is very pale in colour with a nose of quince, honey and just a touch of barrel influence. Medium-bodied on the palate, it’s off-dry with a clean and persistent honeyed pear flavour carried on lively acidity. (TA)

90 PASCAL BOUCHARD MONTMAINS VIEILLES VIGNES CHABLIS 2012, BURGUNDY ($38.95)

A warm-year Chablis, straw-coloured with a bouquet of apple, apple blossom and minerals touched by oak and already developing a barnyard note. Medium- to full-bodied, full on the palate with a firm finish. (TA)

89 LÉON BEYER RIESLING RÉSERVE 2013, ALSACE ($19)

Pale yellow. Seductive nose of pineapple, quince and a delicate flowery touch. Structured by its acid backbone, the mid-palate is round and flavourful, almost racy. Drink or hold 3 to 4 years. (GBQc)

89 JAFFELIN 2013, CHABLIS AC ($35.29)

Sappy green apple and subtle leesy and spicy overtones on the nose with lively green apple, crisp acidity, firm mineral and elegant creamy texture in the mouth.

Shows authentic Chablis character with good depth. (SW)

87 OSMIN PYRÈNE CUVÉE MARINE 2013, IGP CÔTES DE GASCOGNE, SOUTHWEST ($13.50) Very pale yellow with grey reflections.

Light nose; slightly herbaceous with citrus notes. Crisp, lime-flavoured, very light and refreshing on the palate, this is a nice simple white that will go well with river fish or a salad. (GBQc)

GREECE 92 HATZIDAKIS ASSYRTIKO CUVÉE 15 2014, SANTORINI ($35) This organic wine spent 12 hours on its skins to give more aroma and flavour, and 8 months on the lees to give more weight.

Full-bodied, it is stunning, revealing a bouquet of sweet peach, honey, pear, white flowers and candied lemon. Round and smooth in the mouth, the acidity and minerality are tucked nicely beneath.

Long finale and still young; it will evolve nicely over the next 5 years. Pair with shrimp kabobs or pork chops. (ES)

89 KARAMOLEGOS WINERY ASSYRTIKO BARREL AGED 2014, SANTORINI ($34)

Aged in new wood for 6 months, the mineral, citrus, peach, honey, white flower and grapefruit is supported by vanilla and cream qualities. On the palate, spiced apple and salty rocks add dimension.

With its depth and complexity, I suggest pairing with grilled fish topped with lemon and olive oil. (ES)

88 ARGYROS SANTORINI ASSYRTIKO 2014, SANTORINI ($21.95)

Santorini produces some of Greece’s best white wines. Pale straw in colour with a minerally citrus bouquet heightened by a floral grace note. Medium-bodied, crisply dry and citrusy, marred by a touch of hardness on the finish (from over-pressing?). (TA)

88 KARAMOLEGOS WINERY SANTORINI 2014, SANTORINI ($30)

There is an almost Grüner quality to this wine; lime zest, white flowers, grapefruit, white pepper, honey and a slight

vegetal note work their way out of the glass. Brisk acidity and crystalline minerality carry the finish. (ES)

peach and white pepper nose. Medium-bodied, perfumed stone fruit and green pineapple flavours. (TA)

ITALY

NEW ZEALAND

91 VALLE REALE VIGNA DI CAPESTRANO TREBBIANO D’ABRUZZO DOC 2012, ABRUZZO ($29)

88 OPAWA PINOT GRIS 2014, MARLBOROUGH ($16.95)

Hand-harvested grapes from the Capestrano vineyard then fermented using natural yeast and bottled unfiltered. Fruit peel and wilted flowers on the nose. Almond, peach and melon on the rich, round, medium-bodied palate.

Delicious now but will also develop with a few years of cellaring. (HH)

90 MONTE DEL FRÀ CA’ DEL MAGRO CUSTOZA DOC SUPERIORE 2012, VENETO ($20)

The Ca’ del Magro vineyard lies in the hamlet of Custoza, southeast of Lake Garda. A blend of 40% Garganega, 20% Trebbiano Toscano, 15% Incrocio Manzoni, 10% Cortese and 15% other grapes.

Fragrant white flowers, spice, citrus and melon aromas. Rich, medium-plus body.

Long citrus-peel and almond finish. (HH)

90 ROBERTO SNIDARCIG TIARE COLLIO SAUVIGNON 2013, FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA ($25)

The Collio subregion near the Slovenia border is increasingly renowned for its quality Sauvignon Blanc. Assertive freshcut grass, asparagus and vegetal scents.

Fresh acidity, vibrant flavours and long minerally finish with grapefruit-pith notes. An intense glass of wine. (HH)

88 DONNAFUGATA ANTHILIA 2014, SICILY ($18.50) Pale yellow. Aromatic with citrus, hay and a light pear note. Lively and very expressive, the slightly oily texture brings thickness to the mid-palate.

Ready to drink. (GBQc)

87 MONTE DEL FRÀ CA’ DEL MAGRO 2012, VENETO ($17.95) A Garganega wine, the grape of Soave.

Lemon yellow in colour with a white

A Pinot Gris with flavour. Straw colour with a green tint; a minerally, peach nose with citrus notes; medium-bodied, dry, well-extracted peach and nectarine flavours with a long, clean finish. (TA)

87 WHITEHAVEN SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014 ($19)

A refreshing and crisp savvy from New Zealand with a grassy, herbaceous nose that shows grapefruit, gooseberry and citrus accents. It’s zesty and flavourful on the palate with good acid lift. (RV)

SOUTH AFRICA 92 DE MEYE CHENIN BLANC 2013, STELLENBOSCH ($16)

Clear medium-lemon yellow. Nose of melon, citrus and flowers. Light- to medium-bodied with good acidity and delicate pear, lemon and melon flavours.

Drink now. (RL)*

88 GLENELLY GRAND VIN CHARDONNAY 2012, STELLENBOSCH ($19.95)

A mid-weight Chardonnay that wears its oak up front: toast, hazelnut, smoke and spice. The fruit comes in afterwards in the form of peach, yellow apple, sweet pear and ripe melon. Very good length and balanced with just the right amount of acidity giving a lift at the end. (ES)

86 FLAGSTONE FISH HOEK SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, WESTERN CAPE ($12.49) A classic clean, crisp, lightly aromatic Sauvignon showing grassy green fruit and passion fruit character backed by zesty acidity and good mineral grip.

Excellent value. (SW)

OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 55

NOTED SPAIN 90 AZUMBRE VERDEJO 2013, DO RUEDA ($13.50)

Clear pale gold. Medium-intensity nose of lemon, pineapple, honey and a bit of artichoke. Full-bodied with a viscous mouthfeel, but crisp acidity prevents flabbiness. Flavours of lemon and peach with a long finish. A food wine, enjoyable with a pulled-chicken pot pie with lots of herbs. (RL)*

87 BODEGAS VETUS FLOR DE VETUS VERDEJO 2013, RUEDA ($15.95)

Straw coloured, this wine has a nutty and pear bouquet. It’s medium-bodied and dry with the flavour of pear skins and lingering citrus acidity. (TA)

UNITED STATES 91 GRGICH HILLS ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2012, NAPA ($66.95)

An impressive Chardonnay with Old World leanings and New World vitality.

Light straw colour with a smoky, minerally, reductive nose; full-bodied with a lovely mouthfeel, beautifully balanced with rich pineapple and pear flavours, and great length. (TA)

89 FRANCIS COPPOLA DIAMOND COLLECTION GOLD LABEL CHARDONNAY 2013, MONTEREY COUNTY ($19.95)

This full-bodied Chardonnay is straw-coloured with a spicy, tropical nose. The richly extracted fruit is sweet, augmented by toasty oak that lingers on the palate. Big enough to stand up to grilled tuna or even a veal chop if you prefer white wines. (TA)

89 CHATEAU STE MICHELLE RIESLING 2011, COLUMBIA VALLEY ($19.99)

Shows good aromatic intensity, revealing floral notes, lime, petrol and a whiff of mineral. Lemon and lime citrus are front and centre on the slightly off-dry palate, deftly balanced by fresh acidity 56 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

and dry mineral grip. Offers considerable charm and excellent Riesling varietal character. You may want to go for a light soft cheese. (SW)

88 CHATEAU STE MICHELLE GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2012, COLUMBIA VALLEY ($19.99) Lightly fragrant, delicate rose petal and spicy green-apple notes swinging to white peach and apple flavours in the mouth. Backed by zesty acidity and a lick of dry mineral, it finishes a touch off-dry, with lingering delicate fruity and floral sensations. (SW)

88 SOUVERAIN CHARDONNAY 2012, NORTH COAST ($24.99)

Classic California-style citrus, buttery toasty hazelnut and a dash of vanilla on the nose shifting to rich lemon citrus and tropical fruit on the palate. Subtle toast and butterscotch notes on the mid-palate are balanced by lively acidity leading into clean citrus freshness with a touch of nutty butter on the finish. (SW)

86 THE PRISONER WINE CO BLINDFOLD WHITE, CALIFORNIA ($39.95)

This full-bodied blend of Chardonnay, Viognier, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Chenin Blanc “and a few other varieties” has the most offensive label I’ve ever seen (a blindfolded prisoner lashed to a stake).

The nose is peppery, tropical fruit and spicy oak; it’s fat and over-extracted with spicy, toasty orange and mango flavours.

Not my cup of tea but there are some who will like its over-the-top flavours. (TA)

ROSÉ 89 STRATUS WILDASS ROSÉ 2014, NIAGARA ($17.95)

This is an all-year-round rosé with enough gumption to stand up to a veal chop. Pale pink in colour, it presents a minerally nose of elderberries and watermelon; dry, elegant and full on the palate with great length. One unusually flavourful rosé. (TA)

88 FAT’N SKINNY FORGOTTEN ROSÉ 2014, MCLAREN VALE, AUSTRALIA ($13.75)

Clear, rich reddish-orange. Nose is laid-back, but shows citrus, floral and green almond notes. Light-bodied, soft and fruity with apple and red berry flavours. Easy-drinking; serve very cold and soon. (RL)*

88 LA CADIERENNE CUVÉE GRANDE TRADITION BANDOL ROSÉ 2012, BANDO, FRANCE ($20) An impressive, fairly dry rosé with pretty aromas of violets, watermelon, raspberries and rhubarb-strawberry pie. Nicely balanced on the palate between sweet fruit and freshness with plenty of length through the finish. (RV)

87 BODEGA VOLCANES SUMMIT RESERVE ROSÉ 2014, RAPEL VALLEY, CHILE ($9.95)

Here’s a wine that punches above its weight in terms of quality for the price.

This rosé is flesh pink in colour with a peach and citrus nose tinged with a mineral note. It’s easy-drinking, fruity and refreshing on the palate. (TA)

RED ARGENTINA 88 NORTON BARREL SELECT MALBEC 2013, MENDOZA ($12.95) Bargain-priced Malbec. Purple-ruby in colour, it has a spicy, black-cherry nose with a peppery note; on the palate, sweet black fruit flavours with supple tannins and a good spine of acidity. Ideal barbecue wine. (TA)

88 ALAMOS MALBEC 2013, MENDOZA ($14.95)

An attractive Malbec at an equally attractive price. Deep ruby in colour with a floral, blackberry bouquet enhanced by a savoury note. Medium-bodied, dry with a soft, caressing mouthfeel and a floral note. (TA)

88 THE WINES OF CATENA ALAMOS MALBEC 2013, MENDOZA ($15.99)

Deeply scented, attractively ripe dark berry-fruit, elegant cinnamon, clove and a subtle whiff of oak on the nose, with mouth-filling blackberry and redcurrant flavours, firm, dry tannins, good acid balance and a splash of dark chocolate completing the picture.

Try with smoked meats or some charcuterie. (SW)

87 NORTON BARREL SELECT MALBEC 2013, MENDOZA ($13) A lot to like in this bargain wine that sees 12 months of oak. The nose shows rich, ripe currants, cassis, plums, pepper and vanilla. It has ripe tannins and liquorice notes on the palate with a mélange of dark fruits and spice. Fire up the barbecue! This may be your last chance before the snow rolls in. (RV)

AUSTRALIA 92 K1 SHIRAZ 2009, ADELAIDE HILLS ($32.33)

Clear deep plum red. Nose of blackberry, prune, white pepper and a touch of mace. Medium-bodied and well-balanced with smooth tannins backing up red and black berry flavours and vanilla from the oak-aging. An elegant Shiraz, fruity but not a “bomb.” Will improve for another year or 2. Delicious with Schwartz’s smoked duck served with fresh Brussels sprouts roasted in a tangy olive oil. (RL)*

CANADA 93 BLACK HILLS NOTA BENA 2013, OKANAGAN ($60)

The blend consists of 50% Cab Sauv, 40% Merlot and 10% Cab Franc. The nose shows perfectly ripe blackcurrants, black cherries, violets, vanilla, cinnamon toast and barrel spices. On the palate, the rich fruit package is nicely integrated with the soft, ripe tannins and lovely harmonious spice notes. A stunner of a wine. (RV)

93 PILLITTERI ESTATES RISERVA FAMIGLIA CABERNET FRANC 2010, NIAGARA ($78)

The grapes for this Amarone-style red were dried for 26 days before being pressed. Following fermentation, it was aged in French oak for 24 months.

Needless to say, this 14.9% wine is a powerful monster redolent with blackberry, plum, dark cherry, cassis, raspberry liqueur, sweet herbs, smoky tobacco and spice. There is brilliant length and enough tannin to age for a decade — at least! (ES)

91 JACKSON-TRIGGS GRAND RESERVE RED MERITAGE 2012 ($25)

Depending on the weather, Niagara Bordeaux blends can be hit or miss. J-T hits it out the park with this one. Layers of sweet blackcurrant, mocha, smoke, vanilla and mint pretty much jump out of the glass. Full, rich and silky, with loads of cassis, chocolate-coated cherry and vanilla on the palate. Smooth and seductive all the way down. More, please! (SL)

91 JACKSON-TRIGGS DELAINE SYRAH 2012, NIAGARA ($32.95)

It is my belief that this is the best Syrah being made in Ontario. Unlike many other renditions, which tend be overextracted and manipulated so as to appear more Shiraz-like, this wine embraces its Ontario origins. Full-bodied, it busts out the pepper, smoke, hickory, violets, cassis, oregano and raspberry.

The tannins are smooth, and the flavours echo long. (ES)

91 PONDVIEW BELLA TERRA UNFILTERED CABERNET FRANC 2012, NIAGARA ($35)

Gorgeous nose of concentrated cherry-kirsch, raspberry, cassis and touches of anise, bay leaves and a range of spices and herbs. It’s thick, rich and flavourful on the palate with good concentration of succulent fruit flavours, a balanced approach to spice and tannins, and structure through the finish. Roast a nice side of beef or venison making sure not to overcook. (RV)

91 CULMINA HYPOTHESIS 2012, OKANAGAN ($44)

A blend of 57% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc, 19% Cabernet Franc. Deep purple-ruby colour with a complex nose of blackcurrant, blueberry, vanilla oak, cedar, tobacco and pencil lead; full-bodied, dry with a lovely floral note and lively acidity. Corseted with tannins at the moment; needs 2 to 3 years. (TA)

91 TRIUS SHOWCASE EAST BLOCK CLARK FARM VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, FOUR MILE CREEK ($45)

In all my years of evaluating wine professionally, I have never seen an Ontario Cabernet Sauvignon with such a saturated/black colour. Then again, 2012 was an exceptional vintage for reds.

This gold-medal winner at this year’s Ontario Wine Awards is full-bodied with a personality of crème de cassis, raspberry, herbs, mint, dried earth, spice and dried cocoa. The remarkable length and ripe tannins will ensure a decade of positive evolution. (ES)

90 HUFF ESTATES SOUTH BAY UNFILTERED MERLOT 2012, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($40)

I tasted this wine from barrel last year with winemaker Frédéric Picard, and at that time, I thought that it had the potential to be the best South Bay Merlot to-date. Well, I am happy to say that the final product has lived up to my expectations! Medium to full body; there is an underlying linearity and grip to the cherry, plum, cocoa, smoke, tobacco, spice and herb flavours. Excellent length. Hold until 2016 and then drink until 2021. (ES)

90 KACABA MERLOT RESERVE 2010, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT ($44.95)

Gold-medal winner in the Merlot category at the Ontario Wine Awards — and it is easy to see why! Medium to full body; a perfume of coffee, violets, blackberries, plum, spice, chocolate, roasted nuts and roasted herbs meets up with raspberry and smoked qualities on the palate. Great length and ready to drink now. (ES) OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 57

NOTED 89 KONZELMANN SHIRAZ 2013, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($13.80)

This is a steal at the price. Deep ruby colour with a peppery, blackberry nose and an herbal note; dry, medium-bodied, sweet fruit that finishes dry with a toasted herb note on the finish. Soft mid-palate in Northern Rhône style. You can go for a traditional beef stew but a brisket might be better. (TA)

89 MALIVOIRE GAMAY 2013, NIAGARA ($17.95)

The fresh and fruit-driven Gamay doles out strawberry, raspberry, cracked pepper, fresh earth and herbs. Light-bodied, there is great length. Don’t expect the power of Malivoire’s top-end Gamays, but it does deliver in spades on the pleasure/ quaffable scale. This wine is made for pasta, pizza and antipasto. (ES)

89 BRICKLAYER’S REWARD OLD FARM CABERNET FRANC 2012, LAKE ERIE NORTH SHORE ($19.95)

From the good folks at Colio Winery comes this solid Franc with an enormous bouquet of smoky tobacco, raspberry, cassis, blackberry, herbs and black pepper notes. Splendid length and suave tannins bode well for 5 years of cellaring. Time to break out some dark chocolate. (ES)

89 SOUTHBROOK ORGANIC TRIOMPHE CABERNET FRANC 2013, NIAGARA ($21.95)

Mid-weight and smooth-drinking, this textbook Franc doles out the cassis, raspberry, herbs, cedar, pencil shavings, violets and vanilla. Splendid length, fresh acid and fine tannins round out the experience. Pair with a pepper steak or ratatouille. (ES)

89 THIRTY BENCH SMALL LOT PINOT NOIR 2012, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($35)

A lovely Pinot that starts off with a perfume of kirsch, plum, black raspberry, beet root, mushroom and rose. The palate is weighty and chimes in with oak notes of cocoa and spice. Some gritty tannins appear at the end. Pair with grilled quail or duck confit. (ES) 58 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

89 THIRTY BENCH SMALL LOT CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($45)

Medium-plus body. There is a complex nose of cassis, raspberry, vanilla, tobacco, bell pepper and dried earth. Linear, the wine is still tightly wound and tannic, so hold for a couple of years and then drink until 2024. (ES)

89 TAWSE MERITAGE 2011, NIAGARA ($59.95)

A blend of 36% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon and 32% Cabernet Franc. It is the Merlot that greets the senses first with damson plum, cherry, blueberry, cocoa and spice. Afterwards, the Cabernets chime in with cassis, raspberry, cassis and roasted herbs. Vanilla and smoke from the oak ties it all together.

Very good length, fresh acid and moderate tannins will ensure 5 to 6 years of cellaring, if you can wait so long.

I’d say this wine calls for a prime rib but it will also match well with duck and game birds. (ES)

88 KACABA CABERNET/SYRAH 2012, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT ($30) The Syrah component dominates the nose with its black pepper, violets, cassis and rosemary. Afterwards, the Cabernet component chimes in with raspberry, roasted herbs and tobacco. There is a ripe mid-palate with very good length and enough tannin to suggest holding until this winter to pair with braised dishes and roasts. (ES)

CHILE 90 ERRAZURIZ ACONCAGUA ALTO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, ACONCAGUA ($19.95)

Dark ruby, almost opaque with a purple tinge, this Cab is generous but not overt.

Full-bodied; there is cassis, blackberry, mint/cedar, vanilla, anise, smoke and dark cocoa flavours. There is great length with supporting tannins. A real crowd-pleaser and solid value for the price. Drink until 2019. Try with an herb-encrusted lamb dish. (ES)

89 MAYCAS DEL LIMARI RESERVA ESPECIAL SYRAH 2010, LIMARI VALLEY ($28)

Elegant and meaty with engaging aromas and flavours of blackberry, earth, pepper and coffee; mineral, firm structure and a long, savoury finish. A classic cool-climate Syrah that’s aging nicely and a great match with grilled lamb, beef or game meats. (GB)

FRANCE 94 CHÂTEAU HOSANNA 2012, POMEROL, BORDEAUX ($155)

Dark ruby. Distinguished nose of black fruits with floral notes; well-dosed and integrated oak. Beautiful fruity taste, velvety texture, perfectly balanced and full; fleshy mid-palate. Finish is compact and gently firm. Artfully made. (GBQc)

93 CHÂTEAU LAFLEUR-PÉTRUS 2012, POMEROL, BORDEAUX ($169) Full ruby. Beautiful nose, full of finesse; spicy notes complement the fruit and oak in great balance. Delicate in its attack, it becomes full-bodied in the mid-palate yet it remains very elegant.

Delicious and impressive by its superb, round finish. (GBQc)

92 CHÂTEAU LAFLEUR-GAZIN 2012, POMEROL, BORDEAUX ($49)

Young ruby colour. Bright nose of red fruits; very clean, slightly perfumed and generously oaked. Tight in the mouth, tannins are a little dry at this stage but the fruit is pure. Finish is very clean, tight and firm. Give it a few years to mellow the tannins. (GBQc)

91 CHAPOUTIER LA BERNARDINE 2011, CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE AOC ($54.99)

Unwraps elegant dark fleshy fruit backed by subtle cinnamon and dry earthy notes.

Blackcurrant, plum, a pinch of white pepper and a splash of dark chocolate roll out on the palate with notes of roasted coffee and black cherry on the dry tannic finish.

A complex and still-evolving wine that will benefit from additional cellaring. (SW)

91 CHAPOUTIER 2007, HERMITAGE, MONIER DE LA SIZERANNE AC ($83.49)

2007 was a strong vintage for Hermitage, producing well-structured wines for long-term keeping. This one shows scents of violets and developed dark fruit with a subtle cinnamon overtone. Blackberry and blackcurrant flavours come with a splash of vanilla encased in firmly structured tannins and stony mineral grip. Better with another 2 to 5 years in the cellar. If you were able to get a crop of wild mushroom, this might be the time to cook that ragout. (SW)

90 TORTOISE CREEK SHIRAZ 2011, IGP PAYS D’OC ($10.92) Clear medium-deep plum red. Nose of black cherry, strawberry jam and instant coffee. Medium-bodied with lots of alcohol and tannins over tart cherry and ripe cranberry flavours. Long finish. Will improve for another year. (RL)*

90 CHÂTEAU BLAIGNAN 2010, MÉDOC ($24.95)

The dense purple colour suggests intensity of flavour, and that’s what you get. A classic claret nose of blackcurrant, vanilla oak and cedar. Medium-bodied with a savoury, liquorice and dark chocolate flavour. Still tight. Hold 5 years. (TA)

90 CHÂTEAU CHANTALOUETTE 2010, POMEROL, BORDEAUX ($49) Full ruby. Seductive nose with delicate fruity notes and well-dosed oak. More elegant than powerful, it’s medium-bodied yet compact. Drinks beautifully now with a few years ahead of it. Second wine of Château de Sales. (GBQc)

89 CHATEAU LE PRÉ DE LA LANDE 2010, AC SAINTE FOY BORDEAUX ($12.33)

Organic. Suspended fine particles in a deep garnet background. Medium-intensity, mature nose of blueberries, raisins and a touch of soy sauce. Medium-bodied, tasting of tart cranberries and raspberries. Tannins, alcohol and acidity are all prominent but the fruit is fading. Drink up. (RL)*

89 CHÂTEAU DE PANIGON 2011, MÉDOC ($18.95)

A Cru Bourgeois at a great price. Deep ruby colour with an engaging bouquet of currants, cedar and a light floral note.

Fresh and lively on the palate with a firm tannic structure. Will reward cellaring for 3 to 5 years. (TA)

89 BASTIDE MIRAFLORS VIEILLES VIGNES SYRAH/GRENACHE 2013, CÔTES CATALANES ($19.95)

70% Syrah and 30% Grenache. Dense purple in colour with a nose of blackberries and vanilla oak spice with pepper and floral notes. Full-bodied, rich and full in the mouth with a petal-like softness mid-palate. Its lively acidity carries it to a firm finish. (TA)

89 LE LOUP BLANC LES TROIS P’TITS C 2011, IGP AUDE VAL DE CESSE, LANGUEDOC ($24.30)

The garnet rim is a sign of evolution. So is the nose with its torrefied notes of tobacco over red berries. Moderately oaky (spicy notes), it is inviting overall. Satisfying on the palate, it is well balanced and well integrated. The long finish is a tad warm. (GBQc)

89 CHÂTEAU CRUZEAU 2011, PESSAC–LÉOGNAN, BORDEAUX ($25.25)

Dark purplish colour. Nose is dominated by notes of blackberries with a good deal of oak and the typical Bordeaux mineral touch. Full-bodied, well-balanced with generous fruit in the mid-palate. A good glass of Bordeaux at a reasonable price, ready to drink or hold. (GBQc)

88 CHÂTEAU DE PENNAUTIER 2012, CABARDÈS, LANGUEDOC ($15)

Pleasant nose of red and black fruits with a light, spicy touch. Fresh and supple, easily approachable, medium-bodied. Nice harmonious finish. Well done. (GBQc)

88 DOMAINE DU CROS LO SANG DEL PAÏS 2013, MARCILLAC, SOUTHWEST ($16.25)

Ruby-purple. Fresh fruity nose of raspberry, blackberry and a hint of white

pepper. Light- to medium-bodied, a well-dosed vegetal note keeps it fresh in the supple, crunchy-fruity mid-palate.

Clean finish with a good length. Ideal now on charcuterie. (GBQc)

87 LAURENT MIQUEL CAZAL VIEL SAINT-CHINIAN 2013, LANGUEDOC ($13)

Ruby-purplish. Attractive nose of ripe blackberries, spices and dried herbs.

Medium body, sweet fruity taste, supple texture in a very approachable style. A tad bitter, its finish remains fresh. A blend of Syrah and Grenache that will be perfect with meat lasagna. (GBQc)

87 CHÂTEAU DU CORNEAU 2010, MÉDOC ($15.95)

A modest claret at a good price. Deep ruby in colour with a nose of cedar and blackcurrant; medium-bodied, lean and sinewy redcurrant flavour buoyed up by lively acidity to a firm tannic finish. (TA)

87 XAVIER VENTOUX 2012, CÔTES DU VENTOUX ($15.95)

Deep ruby colour offering a bouquet of blackberries and vanilla oak; full-bodied. Sweet, firmly structured fruit with a lively spine of acidity and a firm tannic finish. (TA)

85 COTÉ MAS ROUGE INTENSE MÉDITERRANÉE 2012, PAYS D’OC IGP ($13.99)

Bright fresh red fruit scents, together with green and dried herbal notes and a whiff of mineral, introduce flavours of black cherry and blackberry in the mouth. Tannins are solid with good acid balance and a dusting of dark chocolate on the finish. (SW)

GERMANY 89 ANSELMANN EDESHEIMER ROSENGARTEN SIEGERREBE SPÄTLESE 2012, PFALZ ($15.95)

If you love German wines, don’t miss this one. Bright yellow colour, it has an intriguing aromatic nose of lychees and honey. Light on the palate with concenOCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 59

NOTED trated flavours of lychee and pineapple with great length. I would have scored it higher but for a touch of hardness on the finish. (TA)

GREECE 88 AGIORGITIKO BY GAIA 2013, NEMEA ($19.75)

The Agiorgitiko grape is known for producing supple wines with moderate tannins — case in point, this wine. Aromas of cherry, raspberry, plum, tobacco and vanilla are in play. Ready to drink or hold for up to 3 years. (ES)

ITALY 94 PIRA VIGNA RIONDA BAROLO 2010, PIEDMONT ($115)

From a top-notch vintage, this modern Barolo flaunts sweet cherry, plum, red flowers, anise and herbs. Once it hits the palate, the weight and tannins stand up and carry themselves with refinement, all the way to a lengthy exit. Hold until 2018 and drink for a good 2 decades. (ES)

93 IL MOLINO DI GRACE IL MARGONE CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG GRAN SELEZIONE 2010, TUSCANY ($59)

Medium-plus ruby colour. 100% Sangiovese. Beautiful, fragrant aromas of violets, wild herbs and black fruits. Elegant, complex and balanced with fresh acidity and fine, dry tannins. Very long finish.

Pair with a rack of lamb and/or age up to 10 years for greater integration. (HH)

92 CASTELLO DI GABBIANO BELLEZZA CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG GRAN SELEZIONE 2010, TUSCANY ($45)

100% Sangiovese from their Bellezza estate vineyard. Medium-plus ruby with garnet rim. Spicy nose with lots of toast and vanilla. The full-bodied palate is rich, spicy and concentrated with darkfruit flavours, but tannins need time to integrate. Its freshness bodes well for cellaring over the next 10 years. (HH) 60 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

92 VIETTI CASTIGLIONE BAROLO 2011, PIEDMONT ($75)

From a warm vintage comes this forward and soft (for Barolo, that is) red with aromas of fraise de bois, plum, cherry, vanilla and tobacco. The palate displays a slight creamy texture with elements of earth, tar, spice and cocoa adding dimension. Excellent persistency and 15 years of life ahead. (ES)

92 SETTE PONTI ORENO TOSCANO IGT 2011, TUSCANY ($79)

A super Tuscan Bordeaux-style blend of 45% Merlot, 40% Cab Sauv and 15% Petit Verdot. Clove, blackcurrant and vanilla aromas. Ripe red-and-black fruit and cassis flavours. Full-bodied, well-structured and rich with fine tannins. A consideration for beef roasts and/or aging 5 to 10 years. (HH)

91 GIUSEPPE GABBAS DULE CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA DOC 2011, SARDINIA ($27)

Recent research now suggests that the Grenache in France and Spain originated as Cannonau in Sardinia, not the other way around. Blueberry, red fruits and strawberry-jam aromas. Soft, juicy, red-berry flavours. Satiny tannins, medium body and plush texture. Warm, clove-spice finish. (HH)

91 IL GRIGIO DA SAN FELICE CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG GRAN SELEZIONE 2010, TUSCANY ($43)

80% Sangiovese with 20% native grapes (Abrusco, Pugnitello, Malvasia Nera, Ciliegiolo and Mazzese). Deep ruby with garnet rim. Faint scents of forest floor, black cherry and smoky notes. Richly textured, velvety tannins, full-bodied and a long finish. Drink over the next 5 to 8 years. (HH)

90 MARCHESI DE’ FRESCOBALDI NIPOZZANO CHIANTI RUFINA DOCG RISERVA 2010, TUSCANY ($22) 90% Sangiovese plus 10% Malvasia Nera, Colorino, Merlot and Cab Sauv.

Ruby red with garnet rim. Aromas and flavours of floral, violets, herbal, forest

underbrush and red berries. Well-balanced and structured with a minerally spine and liquorice on the finish. Poised for barbecue fare. (HH)

90 CASTELLO DI GABBIANO CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG RISERVA 2010, TUSCANY ($24)

95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot. Deep garnet colour. Fresh, faint bouquet with floral, herbal, cherry and orange peel.

Somewhat light-footed up-front with a rather fresh mid-palate, but still balanced and well-structured. Long mineral-driven finish. (HH)

90 RUFFINO CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG RISERVA DUCALE 2011, TUSCANY ($26)

80% Sangiovese plus 20% Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot. Deep garnet colour.

Spicy, dark fruit on the nose. Savoury flavours of tobacco, cedar and red berries.

The medium-plus body displays richness and velvety-yet-rustic tannins. Long mineral finish. Serve with grilled meats and vegetables. (HH)

90 VITICCIO CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG RISERVA 2010, TUSCANY ($35)

95% Sangiovese plus 5% Merlot. Deep ruby colour. Aromas of oak and vanilla spice, blackberry and dark chocolate. A modern style with its rich, soft tannins on a full-bodied, powerful frame. Long finish. A weekend steak red. (HH)

89 ABBONA PAPÀ CELSO DOGLIANI 2013, PIEDMONT ($19.75)

Dolcetto, like its Piedmontese brother Barbera, has risen from an everyday drink to high-quality juice, in the right hands. Dogliani is also the birthplace of the Dolcetto grape and this rendition pumps out blueberry, dark cherry, plum, spice, anise, white pepper and cola. Full-bodied with fresh acidity and medium tannins, this wine will age for a decade if you so choose. As a side note, while visiting the winery this past summer, I tasted a vertical of this wine, going back to 2004, and all were still incredibly vibrant. (ES)

89 MARCHESI DE’ FRESCOBALDI TENUTA DI CASTIGLIONI 2012, TUSCANY ($21.95)

A Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese blend. Deep ruby colour with a savoury nose of cherries and lead pencil; medium-bodied, dry, lean and sinewy on the palate with a rich cherry flavour that opens up after an hour or so in the decanter. Look up braised short ribs on the Quench website. (TA)

PORTUGAL 88 LOIOS RED 2014, ALENTEJO ($9.30)

A bargain-priced Aragonez and Trincadeira blend. Deep ruby with purple highlights; black cherry and plum aromas with spicy oak springing out of the glass; medium-bodied, dry, well-extracted black fruit flavours with balancing acidity and an overlay of spicy oak. (TA)

89 BARONE RICASOLI BROLIO RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2011, TUSCANY ($30)

SOUTH AFRICA

89 CELLOLE CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG GRAN SELEZIONE 2010, TUSCANY ($39)

Deep ruby-coloured with scents of blackberry, raspberry, peppery spice and a whiff of herb. Rich blackberry and raspberry flavours play through on the velvety palate with a splash of chocolate, nicely structured tannins and harmoniously integrated fruit, spice and subtle supporting oak. Richly satisfying and outstanding value. (SW)

Full ruby. Beautiful nose of red fruits; clean and precise, plus a touch of tobacco.

Supple yet full-bodied, ripe fruity taste, well-rounded flavour. Firm and full finish of very good length. (GBQc)

90% Sangiovese with 10% Merlot and Colorino. Deep ruby colour. Herbal, floral and bramble aromas are complex but still somewhat closed. Blackberry and blueberry flavours. Tannins are rustic and still tight, so needs a few years in the cellar before it blossoms. Calls for pasta, pasta and more pasta. Don’t forget the meatballs .(HH)

88 CAPEZZANA MONNA NERA 2013, TUSCANY ($23)

Fresh and bright with ripe cherry and raspberry flavours; spicy, savoury, earthy and nicely drinkable. Great match with roast chicken. A blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo. Contact your local butcher and ask for beef or veal cheeks.

Braised along with the wine. It will be well worth it.(GB)

84 GRANATELLO ROSSO 2013, TERRE SICILIANE IGT ($12.99)

Concentrated aromas of dark fruit and a splash of liquorice with dark fruit flavours backed by agreeably rough tannins and brisk acidity. A sturdy everyday wine to drink with burgers, pizza, tomato-based pasta and firm cheeses. (SW)

89 KLEINE ZALZE SHIRAZ/MOURVÈDRE/VIOGNIER 2013, WINE OF ORIGIN WESTERN CAPE ($13.99)

86 FARAWAY FARM WHODUNIT RHÔNE BLEND 2012 ($14.17)

Clear medium-deep plum red. Reserved nose of raspberry jam, strawberry candy and violets. Light-bodied, tasting of raspberries and cranberries with high acidity and some bitter almond on the finish. Drink up. (RL)*

SPAIN 91 HACIENDA LOPEZ DE HARO RESERVA RIOJA 2005, RIOJA ($19)

This Rioja is a nicely aged Tempranillo blend that’s drinking perfectly right now. It has a nose of dark fruits, mineral and rousing spices. It’s soft and rounded on the palate with perfectly integrated spices to go with a range of meaty dark fruits. (RV)

90 MONTEBUENA CUVÉE KPF RIOJA 2012, RIOJA ($16)

This 100% Tempranillo from Spain’s

Rioja region shows a lovely nose of plums, currants, cherries and toasted spice notes. It’s juicy on the palate with a range of currants, cherries and plums with earthy-spicy-vanilla undertones all lifted by bright acidity.

Good-value wine. (RV)

URUGUAY 90 ARTESANA TANNAT 2012, CANELONES ($25)

Rich, bold and dark with elegant yet grippy tannins; lots of blackberry and dark cherry flavours, cedar and spice with an intriguing edginess, finishing big, but juicy. Such a cool wine. Great with wild game. (GB)

DESSERT 94 CAPEZZANA VIN SANTO DI CARMIGNANO DOC RISERVA 2007, TUSCANY, ITALY ($65/375 ML)

Dessert wine. Mainly Trebbiano grapes were dried for several months on cane matting. Then matured for over 4 years in cherry-wood, oak and chestnut 100-litre kegs. Amber colour. Pungent, concentrated hazelnut, ginger, apricot, orange and caramel aromas and flavours.

Lively acidity balances the richness.

Rum-raisin and oxidative notes on the long, lovely, captivating finish. Drink now through 2020, on its own or with a light dessert. (HH)

90 TAWSE OAK AGED CHARDONNAY ICEWINE 2013, NIAGARA ($34.95/200 ML)

Even though the wine spent 6 months in new French oak, any trace of wood has been absorbed by the richness of the wine. Pineapple, golden raisin, apple blossom, honey-drizzled apricots and peach candy are all present. Full-bodied; there is freshness that keeps any overt sweetness in check. Excellent length and perfectly suited for cream and custard desserts. (ES) OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 61

BEER BROOKLYN BREWERY PILSNER, NEW YORK, UNITED STATES ($19/6-PACK)

Quite refreshing and crisp with floral aromas and a hint of flavourful hoppy bitterness, finishing smooth and clean.

Very drinkable with nice character and complexity. (GB)

DRIFTWOOD FAT TUG IPA, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($7/650 ML)

Big and hoppy, but nicely balanced by the maltiness; smoothly bitter with citrus and apricot aromas, bold flavours and a lingering finish. (GB)

LE CASTOR FARMHOUSE HOUBLON, QUEBEC ($5/500 ML)

The farmhouse style seems to be everywhere these days. This bold ale is fermented with both Saccharomyces and wild brettanomyces yeasts. The hops jump onto the front palate with a long finish. The brewery thinks this beer can use a little more time. They aren’t wrong.

Waiting a year will open the beer up quite a bit and balance out the hops. Food will also do the trick. Try with a smoked brisket (see page 46, September 2015) (JS)

SPIRITS BRUGAL 1888, DOMINICAN REPUBLIC ($70/750 ML)

A premium expression from the top-selling rum brand in the Caribbean, Brugal 1888 advances the house style: “clean, dry and woody,” according to 5th-generation Maestro Ronero, Gustavo Ortega Zeller Brugal. Distilled from pure Dominican molasses and double-aged in both bourbon and sherry casks, Brugal’s richest offering noses banana bread, tobacco, saddle, candied orange and holiday spices. It’s rich but playful on the palate, flitting back and forth between tropical fruit, vanilla and caramel and a defining woody dryness. Serve with a slice of pumpkin pie (see page 13). (SP) 62 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

BARBANCOURT 15 STAR, HAITI ($55/750 ML)

Produced in a style similar to rhum agricole (now a strictly observed AOC), Barbancourt is distilled from fresh-pressed Haitian sugarcane rather than molasses.

Originally blended solely for the family and friends, this exclusive expression represents a tiny sliver of Barbancourt’s sales. Caramelized cane, candied orange peel and scorched earth on the nose.

Apricots, honey and caramel are spiced up with hot edges. (SP)

PLANTATION GRAN AÑEJO, GUATEMALA ($37/750 ML)

This Guatemalan rum is aged for a minimum of 4 years in ex-bourbon barrels before crossing the Atlantic to France, where it finishes maturing in cognac casks courtesy of father company Pierre Ferrand. Whisky-esque with whiffs of charred pineapple upside-down cake, chocolate and overripe banana. A fruit-forward, nutty and faintly earthy rum for sweet-toothed sippers. (SP)

NEW GROVE OLD TRADITION RUM, MAURITIUS ($45/700 ML)

This gorgeously peculiar rum hails from Mauritius, a small volcanic island in the middle of the Indian Ocean. Aged in a winning combination of Limousin oak casks and port pipes, this complex and aromatic rum tastes like an oaken fruit bowl peppered with exotic spices in the proximity of a gas station. A perfect rum to lavish tiki cocktails with a little something extra. (SP)

CAOL ILA 15 YEAR OLD UNPEATED SCOTCH, ISLAY, UK ($130/750 ML)

Aged in first-fill American oak, this unpeated Islay Scotch exudes a thousand characteristics without flirting with fragmentation. Smells like green bananas, ground almonds, honey-smothered toast, greens and grains. In the mouth, it’s delicate, honeyed and spicy with just enough salinity to encourage serial sipping. Lofty, but of the earth: a lovely conundrum. (SP)

BAINS CAPE MOUNTAIN WHISKY, SOUTH AFRICA ($48.50/750 ML)

If tasted blind, this whisky might leave

your palate reeling; it’s like American rye, Highland Scotch and Irish whiskey had a endearingly awkward, oddly alluring but ultimately underdeveloped love child. A reserved nose of fruit, grain and spicy oak leads to a compact palate of sweet vanilla and wood sprinkled with brine. Not bad, but it skirts the complexities it almost delivers. (SP)

SPRINGBANK LONGROW PEATED WHISKY, CAMPBELTOWN, UK ($98/700 ML)

Hailing from Campbeltown, once the most prolific and now one of the most obscure of all Scotland’s whisky regions, this is a mighty appetizing dram with bright aromas of tangerine and lemon peel mingling with roasted marshmallow, malt syrup and smoky barnyard. A flavour bomb of green fruit, smoke and sea spray firmly backed by wood and a lingering peaty tang. Awesome stuff. (SP)

SILO AGED WHISKEY, VERMONT, UNITED STATES ($60)

The carmelized banana on the nose opens up as cane sugar, honey and tropical fruit warms the palate. A touch of corn and spice rounds out the finish. (JS)

JURA PROPHECY, JURA, UK ($99/750 ML)

Besides local wildlife, this distillery is probably the main attraction on the remote and rugged Hebridean Isle of Jura.

A deep, intensely peated whisky that flexes serious muscle amidst aromas of charred tropical fruits and vanilla crème brûlée. Spicy cinnamon and salty fruit notes dominate; like washing down slightly burnt fruit cake with potent chai tea. (SP)

STRATHISLA, HIGHLANDS, UK ($120/700 ML)

From the oldest operating distillery in the Scottish Highlands, this Strathisla single malt comes courtesy of independent bottlers Gordon & MacPhail. Whiffs of pears, lemon and gingerbread lead to a palate of spiced apple, fresh ginger, toffee and wood. Want to be adventurous? Pair with a mellow blue cheese. (SP)

WELL NOTED 86 FOUNDSTONE MERLOT 2012, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA ($14.17)

88 ABELLIO ALBARIÑO 2013, DO RIAS BAIXAS, SPAIN ($13)

Clear medium-deep garnet. Reticent nose of herbs and forest floor underlying cranberry and plum/prune aromas.

Light-bodied, soft and fruity with cherry flavours and some kirsch bitterness on the finish. Drink now. (RL) *

92 FORBIDDEN FRUIT CAUGHT APRICOT MISTELLE, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY, BC ($27/375 ML)

89 KELLERMEISTER THE FUNK WAGON GSM 2011, BAROSSA, AUSTRALIA ($16.30)

GSM refers to a Southern Rhône-inspired blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mataro (Mourvèdre). Full-bodied; there is a rich texture and a profile of sweet cherry, raspberry, plum, black pepper, anise and earth.

Soft tannins and ready to drink. Pair with baby back ribs or chorizo sausage. (ES)

DRIFTWOOD WHITE BARK WITBIER, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($6.50/650 ML)

Pale golden, lovely floral quality with notes of coriander and orange peel; good depth and complexity, finishing dry and clean, readying you for the next quaff. (GB)

91 CORNELLANA CHARDONNAY 2014, CACHAPOAL VALLEY, CHILE ($8.67)

Clear pale yellow. Somewhat reticent nose, but with good unoaked Chard typicity; citrus and banana aromas.

On the palate, it is full-bodied, well balanced and crisp, stuffed with pear, apricot and lemon-lime flavours. Tremendous value. (RL)*

Good bang-for-buck ratio in this Galician white. Sure, it’s not the most complex Albariño I’ve ever tried, but considering you typically have to go north of $20 (sometimes considerably north) to get a basic one, this fresh, crisp, mildly peachy, slightly lemony number is refreshing and clean, with peach/pear notes wrapped in a mid-weight guise, is an affordable and tasty introduction to the style. (SL)

This sweet dessert wine is made from 3 varieties of organic apricots and is fortified with grain spirit and finished at 17% alc. It has a gorgeous, honey-sweet nose of intense apricot, dried fruits and mango.

It’s all about compoted marmalade and luxurious apricot on the palate that’s viscous and velvety smooth with decent acidity for balance. (RV)

92 BARONE PIZZINI FRANCIACORTA DOCG BRUT NATURE 2010, LOMBARDY, ITALY ($40)

Tiny, fast-rising bubbles. Attractive bouquet of freshly baked brioche, lemon zest and yellow flowers. Elegant acidity, vibrant texture, fine mousse; richly structured and very dry. The limestone-rich soil confers a long minerally finish. A worthy contender to Champagne. A worthy companion for oysters. (HH)

91 ROLLAND-GALARRETA RUEDA 2012 ($21)

Pale golden yellow. Delicate, floral nose with hints of honey. Fresh attack; the fine acidity is in perfect balance.

Tender mid-palate and very nice finish. 100% Verdejo vinified by Michel Rolland. (GBQc)

89 KARAMOLEGOS WINERY ASSYRTIKO BARREL AGED 2014, SANTORINI, GREECE ($34)

Aged in new wood for 6 months, the mineral, citrus, peach, honey, white flower and grapefruit is supported by vanilla and cream qualities. On the palate, spiced apple and salty rocks add dimension.

With its depth and complexity, I suggest pairing with grilled fish topped with lemon and olive oil. (ES)

90 BLACK HILLS ALIBI 2013, OKANAGAN ($25)

A classic blend of 75% Sauvignon Blanc and the rest barrel-fermented Sémillon. It has an elegant nose of grapefruit, grilled pineapple, citrus and baked apple with lightly toasted spices. It has wonderful mouthfeel with rich flavours on the palate that are bolstered by oak-derived spice notes. (RV)

OCTOBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 63

DAVINE BY GURVINDER BHATIA

GRAPES YOU SHOULD KNOW, IF YOU DON’T ALREADY

IMAGINE EATING CHICKEN EVERY NIGHT for dinner, or only ever

frequenting the same restaurant and always ordering the same dish. Most people would call you boring.

Then why is it that so many people only drink the same wine? Perhaps wine is still slightly intimidating to many, so when people find something they like, they stick with it. I suppose it is human nature to stay within your comfort zone and stick with the familiar. But it’s still boring, particularly with the huge variety and diversity of styles and flavours available.

In Canada, we are fortunate as wine consumers to have access to so many great wines from around the world, including those grown on our home soils. While there are over 1,000 grape varieties used to make wine, most people collectively tend to gravitate to the same seven or eight better-known grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah/Shiraz, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling). Even Malbec is a relatively recent “discovery.” 20 years ago most people 64 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

in Canada had never tasted Malbec from Argentina (they may have tasted Malbec from France without even realizing that they were drinking Malbec).

I say “collectively” because even within this familiar group of grapes, most people tend to limit themselves to only a few. Too often I hear emphatically “I only drink Chardonnay” or “I only drink California Cabernet.” It’s time to expand your horizons. There are so many amazing wines being grown in the world; you are depriving yourself of their pleasures by not being more adventurous.

The key point to remember is that how well known a wine is bears no relationship to the quality of that wine, and just because you’ve never heard of it doesn’t mean it’s not good. The following is a list of grapes that can produce delicious, character-filled, diverse wines along with suggestions for recommended producers. Give a few of them a try (if not all). Better yet, introduce a few to your friends. You’ll look like you’re on the cutting edge of what’s happening on the wine scene.

TANNAT

Dark, powerful and brawny with grippy tannins; black and red fruit flavours with an intriguing edginess finishing big, but juicy with fresh acidity. Its home is southwest France (Madiran in particular), but it does quite well in Uruguay and Argentina. Good examples are intriguing and full of character. For everyone who only drinks Malbec from Argentina, drink Tannat instead. Good examples: Alain Brumont (Madiran), San Pedro de Yacochuya (Argentina), Artesana (Uruguay).

BAGA

Found in northern Portugal, most often in Bairrada and Dão, the grape can be difficult to grow. But when done well, these wines have beautiful fruit and freshness. When young, they evolve and develop more complexity as the tannins soften with age. But it doesn’t only for stills. A few producers are making interesting sparkling wines with Baga. Good examples: Luis Pato, Caves Messias, Caves São João.

LACRIMA

An aromatic red grape primarily found in Italy’s Marche region. Dark with intense aromas of roses and spice, bright dark berry and cherry flavours. Well structured. Good examples: Marotti Campi (who makes a red, rosé and extremely cool sparkling) and Mancinelli.

NERELLO MASCALESE

One of the main grapes (along with Nerello Cappuccio) grown on Sicily’s Mt Etna, currently one of the globe’s “it” wine regions. Generally lighter in colour, but don’t let that fool you as Nerello Mascalese can make incredibly enticing wines. Fragrant and fresh with sour cherry and wild currant aromas and flavours; great focus and finesse with a stony minerality and crisp finish. The vineyards on the slopes of Mt Etna, the tallest active volcano in Europe, and high altitude contribute to the vibrancy, intensity and minerality of the wines.

Good examples (either monovarietal or at least 90% Nerello Mascalese): Benanti, Pietradolce, Tasca d’Almerita.

CINSAULT

Its home is southern France and the grape can produce delicious wines that are soft, fruit-driven, juicy and aromatic.

It is often blended with Grenache and Carignan, but some excellent monovarietal red and rosé bottlings exist. Good examples: Domaine d’Aupilhac (France), Birichino (California).

AGLIANICO

One of Italy’s most important grapes.

Primarily grown in the south in Campania and Basilicata. Produces remarkable, character-filled red wines that are structured, savoury, minerally, dark fruit, floral and ageworthy. Good examples: Mastroberardino, Cantine del Notaio, Elena Fucci, Tenuta del Portale, Madonna delle Grazie.

FRAPPATO

Generally blended with Nero d’Avola in Sicily’s Cerasuolo di Vittoria wines, monovarietal bottlings are becoming more common due largely to the success of Arianna Occhipinti. Lighter in colour; fragrant, bright red fruit, dried herbs, vinous, juicy, refreshing, medium body with lively acidity. Good examples: Arianna Occhipinti, COS, Valle dell’Acate.

CARIGNAN

I’ve saved the best for last. Perhaps best known from Spain and southern France, this high-acid, dark, often tannic grape is experiencing a resurgence perhaps due to the wines being produced from old, dry-farmed vines in Chile’s Maule Valley. Chilean producers have even created an association, VIGNO, to collectively promote quality Carignan from these old vines. Good examples: De Martino, Undurraga TH (Chile), Cims de Porrera (Spain), Le Roc des Anges (France). ×

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AFTER TASTE BY TONY ASPLER

MOVING WITH THE TIDE

THE TASTING ROOM AND RETAIL STOP AT AVONDALE SKY IN NOVA SCOTIA MEASURES 40 FEET AT THE PEAK OF ITS STEEPLY RAKED ROOF TO A FOOTPRINT OF 36 BY 50 FEET. Not the sort of dimensions one would normally

associate with a winery. But the 1837 Carpenter Gothic-style building began life as a church — and not in its current location.

It was, in fact, the church’s second move. The winery’s website tells this story: “The village of Walton had developed closer to the waterfront than was originally anticipated. So, one winter about a century and a half ago, the parishioners used oxen to move the building to its new site three kilometres from the old.”

In 2011, Stewart Creaser and Lorraine Vassalo purchased St. Matthews Church for $1.67 — the same price its congregation paid for the building in 1844. The couple had the deconsecrated church lifted off its foundations and ferried 42 km down the Minas Basin shore to Newport. Had they not rescued it, the church would have been torched so that the local fire brigade could practise their fire-fighting skills. The move took just over 24 hours, the stately church riding Minas Bay’s perilous tides that rise and fall 42 feet.

This was not the first of the owners’ efforts to preserve heritage buildings; Avondale Sky’s fermentation tanks are housed in a 1920s hay barn they had salvaged from a dike along the St. Croix River, 10 km from their vineyard.

Today, Avondale Sky’s winemaker Ben Swetnam produces a range of wines from Nova Scotia’s signature white grape, L’Acadie, as well as a product conforming to the province’s unique appellation, Tidal Bay. The concept, launched with the 2012 vintage, was for wineries to produce a dry or off-dry white blend of locally grown grapes that speak to Nova Scotia’s terroir. The primary

66 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2015

grapes that make a majority of the blend have to be chosen from L’Acadie, Vidal, Seyval and Geisenheim 318 or a combination thereof. Secondary grapes, if used, can include Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and 11 other lesser varieties.

Then there is a third option of grapes for inclusion in the blend — aromatic varieties such as Gewürztraminer, Perle of Csaba, Traminette or New York Muscat, but only up to 15 percent of the total. Yields are regulated and no more than 20 percent new oak can be used, although stainless steel is recommended to maintain the freshness of the wines and their lightness (alcohol levels should not exceed 11 percent; some are as low as 9.5 percent).

Residual sugar must not climb above 20 grams per litre — which may sound high, but given the exuberant acidity in Nova Scotia’s grapes, it makes for a more balanced wine.

To ensure vintners respect the guidelines, the wineries have to submit their blends to a panel of experts to ensure typicity.

Currently 12 of the province’s producers make a Tidal Bay wine.

I tasted all 12 at the launch of this year’s Tidal Bay Wines in Halifax last June. While stylistically they ranged from bone-dry (Benjamin Bridge, Gaspereau Vineyards, Blomidon Estate and Lightfoot & Wolfville, the province’s newest winery opened this summer) to off-dry (Grand Pré, Luckett Vineyards, Mercator, Jost, Ste Famille, Planters Ridge and Annapolis Highland Vineyards), they all had a floral or aromatic component and were immensely drinkable.

Avondale Sky’s Tidal Bay 2014 was a blend of L’Acadie, Vidal, Geisenheim 318, Minnesota Muscat and a variety I had never come across before, Petite Milo. The wine was pale straw in colour with a Sauvignon Blanc-like nose, offering dry, gooseberry, green plum and cut-grass flavours. Winemaker Ben Swetnam calls his wine, irreverently, “Tiddly B.” × ILLUSTRATION: FRANCESCO GALLÉ, WWW.FRANCESCOGALLE.COM

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