AND SOMMELIER
MAV
CHEFS 2017
WWW.QUENCH.ME OCTOBER 2017 PM40063855 $7.95
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QUENCH MAGAZINE OCTOBER 2017
MAVERICK CHEFS 2017 × 18 WE PROFILE THE BEST AND MOST INNOVATIVE CHEFS (AND ONE SOMMELIER) AROUND. 19 VÉRONIQUE DALLE, SOMMELIER, MONTREAL, QC 20 DAN VORSTERMANS, THE HIGHWAYMAN, HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA 22 MARK PERRIER, OSTERIA SAVIO VOLPE, VANCOUVER, BC 24 SIMON MATHYS, MANITOBA RESTAURANT, MONTREAL, QC 26 MICHAEL HUNTER, ANTLER KITCHEN AND BAR, TORONTO, ONTARIO BY LISA HOEKSTRA PIWOSA × 28 THE ACRONYM DEFINING SOUTH AFRICA’S WINE SCENE. BY TOD STEWART
31 44
WHAT ELSE CAN WE DO × 31 IT’S TIME FOR GERMANY TO SHOW THE WORLD IT’S MORE THAN JUST RIESLING. BY MICHAELA MORRIS COME BACK × 34 AUSTRIA IS LOOKING TO THE FUTURE BY DEFINING ITS REGIONS. BY EVAN SAVIOLIDIS MORE THAN ONE × 36 PUGLIA IS NOT ABOUT JUST ONE GRAPE (THOUGH IT MAY SEEM THAT WAY). BY MICHAEL PINKUS THE POETRY OF PARIS × 39 FINDING BEAUTY IN THE LITERATURE AND FOOD OF THE CITY OF LIGHTS. BY JOANNE WILL BETTER LOVE DOGS × 42 MICROBREWERY TAPROOMS ARE REVOLUTIONIZING NEW BRUNSWICK’S DRINKING CULTURE. BY CRAIG PINHEY FOOD CITY: SASKATOON × 44 THE PRAIRIES ARE BUILDING ONE OF THE MOST INNOVATIVE FOOD CULTURES IN CANADA. BY LISA HOEKSTRA
DEPARTMENTS WHAT’S IN A NAME? × 50 WHAT DID I MISS? WHEN IN THE WORLD DID RAISED DOUGHNUTS BECOME “GLAZED YEAST RINGS?” BY NANCY JOHNSON
NOTED × 52 EXPERTLY-TASTED BUYING GUIDE OF WINES, BEERS AND SPIRITS FROM AROUND THE WORLD. THE WINE COP × 66 PERCEPTION IS EVERYTHING WHEN IT COMES TO CANADIAN WINE. BY TONY ASPLER OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 3
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BY THEIR NATURE, SOMMELIERS ARE OFTEN MISUNDERSTOOD. SOMETIMES CONFUSED AS WELL-INFORMED WAITERS, THEY ARE USUALLY RELEGATED TO THE MOST WHITE-NAPKIN OF RESTAURANTS.
Or that used to be the case. Today, sommeliers are everywhere — from fine dining to the contemporary eateries. They know their wine lists
4 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
“Thanks for the heads up about Tidal Bay’s 2016 vintage ‘12 Tides’! [“On Top of the Bay” by Sean Wood; September 2017] I am constantly on the lookout for Tidal Bay wines to try - I see a tasting in my future.” Mirella Singh, email “Joanne Will’s thought-provoking articles about how our consumption-based society is ruining both the environment [“Wasted”, December 2016/January 2017 issue] and our health [“Stop this junk!”, September 2017] were very enlightening and a nice change in pace from the usual tone of your articles. It’s always eye-opening to think about how our relationship with food and the materials they come in changes over the centuries. One more reason to continue my eco-friendly, green (etc.) lifestyle.” Steven Chalmers, Muskoka, Ontario “My kiddos returned to school! Such a hectic process, getting them ready. Nancy [Johnson]’s recipes saved the day more than once [“Back to School”, September issue]. My favourite is her garlic and feta bread, but my kids are loving the pork chops with apples. Actually, my son likes the pork chops. My daughter likes the apples.” Olivia Lam, email
in and out, and are there for one thing: to supply the guest with the best experience ever. In order for them to take you in hand, you need to know how to use them. The confusion surrounding somms has created a level of mistrust between guest and the wine list keeper. First off, somms are not there to upsell you. As an extension of the kitchen, they are well placed to know what the chef has prepared and how to enhance the experience with a glass of … Secondly, they need your help. By learning what you like, they will guide you to highlights on the list (as if they were tailor made for your palate). But the most scary (yet rewarding) thing might be to leave yourself in their hands completely. In a restaurant with an enlightened wine list, it’s truly a delight. As you walk through the doors of most restaurants, by its nature, you place yourself in the capable hands of the chef. It’s now time to give the sommelier a chance.
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CONTRIBUTORS Craig Pinhey discovered good drink circa 1985 at Ginger’s Tavern/Granite Brewery in Halifax and has been writing about beer, wine and spirits for 25 years. A Certified Sommelier and BJCP judge, Craig lives in New Brunswick where he runs his own writing and consulting business and is the beverage columnist for Brunswick News. He is the only person to have judged both the national wine awards and beer awards of Canada. www.facebook.com/Craig.Pinhey.FrogsPad/
A National Magazine award-winning writer, Christine Sismondo is Quench Magazine’s Lazy Mixologist columnist, as well as a regular contributor to The Globe and Mail, The Toronto Star and Maclean’s. She is also the author of Mondo Cocktail: A Shaken and Stirred History, a history of cocktails and spirits and America Walks into a Bar: A Spirited History of Taverns and Saloons, Speakeasies and Grog Shops, a book in which she tries to change the way the world looks at their local.
A self-proclaimed bookworm (and proud of it), Quench’s editorial assisant, Lisa Hoekstra has transformed her love of reading into a writing career that spans an eclectic range of topics, from healthy eating to video games.
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OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 7
Q SCHOOL
How to start a wine cellar in a small space BEING A WINE LOVER IN THE CITY CAN BE A MIXED BLESSING.
On one hand, you have access to a vast array of stores and restaurants. On the other hand, it’s more than likely that you live in a smaller space than your outside-the-city counterparts — probably an apartment or condo, or a smaller home with limited storage options. If that’s the case, starting a wine cellar in the traditional sense doesn’t seem feasible. Well, here’s the thing — you can.
KEEP IT SMALL
The first step is knowing that your wine cellar doesn’t need to hold hundreds of bottles. It can hold as few as five and as many as you can comfortably store without everything toppling out every time you grab a bottle. To stock this mini-cellar, buy wines across three different price points — $10 to $20, $20 to $40 and $40+ — and include at least one sparkling wine, one or two rosés and divide the rest of the bottles between reds and whites. If you’re hoping to start aging wines, start with one or two bottles. So, if you find you only have room for a 15-bottle cellar, you could have one sparkling, two rosés, four wines for aging — one white and three reds — and eight wines for enjoying throughout the week, whatever combination of varieties, styles and types pique your interest. The benefit of keeping your cellar small — other than being convenient for your space — is you can easily experiment with styles, explore that vast selection of wines available to you and find new favourites … because you’ll have to restock every other week or so (depending on how often you open a bottle). Once you’ve figured out how many bottles you can store (and which you’d like to store), your next step is to figure out where to put your cellar. There are a two options:
WINE CLOSET
This is a DIY project that reaps a lot of reward. Find an unused space in your home. It can be dead space under your stairs or a cabinet/cupboard in your kitchen that is large enough to be 8 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
refurbished. Once you’ve chosen the location, here are a few tips for the installation. 1) Choose porcelain tile, slate or limestone to line the floor of your space, as these materials will help maintain a constant low temperature. 2) Use low-output LEDs; even a single bulb can heat up a small space. 3) Install a thermal-pane glass door so you can easily peek inside to browse your options before you open it to pick your wine. You can find full plans and details online; just search “DIY Wine Closet.”
WINE FRIDGE
Not all of us are DIY-inclined, and that’s where wine fridges come in handy. These can fit into the “dead space” mentioned above — under the stairs, unused cupboard, a closet. Before you purchase a wine fridge, measure your space so you know exactly how big (or small) a fridge you need. All that’s left is to plug in, stock and enjoy. ×
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GIVING IN
Wondering what to take to the family’s Thanksgiving gathering? Try these delicious focaccias, made with sun-dried tomatoes, homemade pesto and love. If kneading dough for 10 minutes sounds like a purgatory sentence, put on a couple of your favourite tunes and roll with it. Or watch the first 10 minutes of a Sherlock episode with the adorable Benedict Cumberbatch. Swoon. SUN-DRIED TOMATO AND PESTO FOCACCIAS
1/2 1 1/2 2 1/4 1 1/2 4 1/2 2
tsp sugar cups warm water tsp active dry yeast cup extra virgin olive oil, divided tsp salt cups all-purpose flour, plus more for bread board Shortening, as needed cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, minced tbsp basil pesto (recipe follows)
1. In large bowl, dissolve sugar in warm water. Sprinkle in yeast; let stand 10 minutes. Whisk in 2 tbsp oil and salt. Stir in 3 1/2 cups flour until smooth. Gradually stir in remaining flour as needed until soft dough is formed. 2. Scatter a bit of flour over bread or cutting board. Turn out dough and knead 10 minutes or until smooth and elastic. Dust with small amount of flour as needed to prevent sticking. 3. Spread a large bowl with shortening. Place dough in bowl, turning to coat with shortening. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise 1 1/2 hours or until doubled in size. Punch down dough and transfer to floured bread or cutting board.
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4. Using a knife, cut dough in half. Pat each half to 1/2-inch
thickness. Top one half with sun-dried tomatoes. Top the remaining half with pesto. Knead each half into a ball until ingredients are distributed evenly. With hands, flatten balls into 8-inch circles. 5. Spread two 8-inch round cake pans with shortening. Transfer each 8-inch round of dough into pans. Brush with remaining oil. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise 1 hour or until doubled in size. 6. Heat oven to 400˚F. Dimple dough by pressing finger into several places in top of dough. Bake 25 to 30 minutes or until golden. Remove from oven, brush with additional olive oil and cool on rack. Makes 2 loaves; cut each loaf into 8 to 10 wedges.
BASIL PESTO
Basil pesto freezes well for up to 3 months. I make this at the end of summer, when basil is plentiful, but it’s so good it’s truly worth a trip to the supermarket for fresh basil in October.
2 2 3 3 1/2 1/4
tbsp pine nuts cloves garlic, peeled and crushed tbsp extra virgin olive oil cups fresh basil leaves cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano tsp salt
In a food processor, mince pine nuts and garlic. Add oil; pulse 3 times. Add basil, cheese and salt. Process until finely minced. Yields 3/4 cup. × OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 11
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LAZY MIXOLOGIST BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO
YOU SAY TOMATO. I SAY TOMATO WATER. It took me a long time to come around to this bizarre-sounding cocktail ingredient, largely because I consider it an important part of my job to maintain a firm line between salad and booze. And tomato water definitely seemed to cross the line. As such, when, at a Dillon’s Spirits cocktail competition a couple of years ago, contestant Kathleen Shattock presented the Tomaccio for my consideration, I was ready to hate it. You will already have guessed I was wrong. The drink was a revelation and the tomato water delivered an umami-bomb component to this super-fresh cocktail. Even so, I wasn’t jazzed on trying to make it at home, since I knew it involved a fair bit of advance planning and it soon faded from memory. It all came back in a crystal-clear flash, though, when I recently tried Cazottes 72 Tomates, an eau-de-vie made from tomatoes (yes, really) from an organic, artisanal spirits distillery in the south of France run by the passionate vintner/distiller, Laurent Cazottes. It had that same umami-freshness balance. Funnily enough, I happened to be with Shattock at this tasting, too, since she was wearing her wine sales hat that day (she works with the Living Vine agency on top of working as a hospitality consultant in Toronto and Prince Edward County, where she lives). We both immediately associated the eau-de-vie and the Tomaccio. “I think that’s why I like tomato so much as an ingredient,” she explained, “It’s because of the tomato’s inherent sweetness, which is balanced with that great savoury thing. You can play off of that with bright citrus flavours or herbal notes, and you can easily create this all-palate flavour play that I really enjoy.” Shattock added lemon juice and fennel syrup to Dillon’s vodka for her competition entry — a flavour combo that she still uses when she helps restaurants develop cocktail menus. She also gives clients advice on how to get the tomato water as colour-free as possible (detailed below), so that the tomato flavour really takes people by surprise. “Everyone thinks of tomato cocktails as Caesars, all thick and tomato-sauce, and there’s so much more that you can do with it,” said Shattock. “And cucumber got the rise from salad ingredient to cocktail go-to, so why not tomato?” I’m sold. On the tomato, that is. But hold the cucumber, please — that’s starting to sound a little too much like salad for my tastes.
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TOMACCIO
1 oz vodka 1 oz tomato water* 3/4 oz fresh lemon juice 1/2 oz fennel syrup** Stir and fine-strain into chilled coupe glass.
*TOMATO WATER
Blanch a half-kilo of fresh tomatoes, so that it’s easy to remove skins. Blitz them with an immersion blender for 30 seconds. Place the tomato mush in a coffee filter and let it strain for several hours — up to 6. To achieve a very light-coloured tomato water, try to leave the mush alone instead of agitating it. The solids can later be turned into salsa or sauce.
**FENNEL SYRUP
This syrup can be made by heating 1 cup of sugar, 1 cup of water, 4 or 5 pieces of chopped fennel and a teaspoon of toasted fennel seeds in a saucepan until the sugar is dissolved. Cool and let the fennel infuse for an hour. Strain, bottle and refrigerate. × OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 13
MUST TRY
And the winner is ... You may not know this, but Canada produces a huge amount of pulses. If you are slightly confused by the term, it includes peas, lentils, beans, and chickpeas. As a point of fact, we are the world’s largest exporter of lentils and peas, and one of the world’s top five exporters of beans. That’s why, when chef Vikram Vij and the Northern Lands Festival (held in Edmonton this year) came to us and said, “let’s do a chef battle — only caveat, they must use pulses in their recipe” — we were in. We tasted a lot of amazing dishes that day but we had to pick a winner. Chef Kelsey Johnson from Café Linnea, in Edmonton, came up on top with an amazingly simple interpretation of the pancake.
14 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
PANCAKES WITH A PULSE 300 g dried green pea flour
20 350 2
g dried green peas, whole g water eggs Pinch of sea salt
1. Soak the whole peas overnight covered in cold water. 2. The next day, cook the whole peas gently in salted water; drain and reserve the water. 3. Combine the water, pea flour, salt and egg and let stand overnight. 4. The next day, fold in the whole peas. Heat a cast iron skillet over high heat, brush with a small amount of vegetable oil and pour out pancake batter to the size of your liking. 5. Top with your favourite ingredients and enjoy! Here are some suggestions: crème fraîche, smoked ham and white onions, thinly sliced and cooked briefly in whey; smoked salmon, dill, roe and sour cream; or for a vegetarian choice, a fried quail egg and thinly shaved asparagus. ×
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What’s the difference between Madeira and Marsala wine? Short of being fortified, the only thing they share is the letter “M.” Overshadowed by their port and sherry cousins, for some reason they’ve gained notoriety as a duo even though they share no geography or production method. Let’s start with Madeira. It’s an archipelago off the coast of Portugal that became famous for its burnt-tasting wines after barrels of the fresh liquid, which had grape spirit added for stability, got toasted after the long, hot trip from Europe to trading posts in the East Indies. Though not the outcome winemakers had hoped for, people started to dig the unconventional flavour of the mutated wine and Madeira was now in the unenviable position of having to recreate the uniqueness of their now popular juice as modern shipping methods ended its natural deconstruction. Today, fancy heating methods are employed to recreate what Mother Nature originated, and both drier and sweeter Madeira sits as an eclectic alternative to fortified wine produced on the Portuguese mainland. Marsala is made around the town of the same name on the Italian island of Sicily. Though nothing like Madeira in taste or fabrication, it also became a fortified wine so that it would survive the long sea voyages to foreign ports in the days of the tall ships. Also available in both dry and sweet versions, it’s most famous
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as a recipe enhancer, especially when it comes to its more sugary persona which is the base of many popular Italian desserts. Port and sherry may get the headlines, but fine Madeira and Marsala are pleasantly drinkable, and in the case of Madeira, surprisingly long-lasting if you’re looking for a no-brainer cellar selection that you can tuck away and leave, in the case of vintage varieties, for a lifetime.
I don’t know much about wine but just got invited to a fancy tasting. Any tips on how I can fake my way through the evening without looking like a dope?
Someone smarter than me once said there is no stupid question, so if you’re attending a wine tasting unarmed, feel free to tell the world you’re new to the scene and looking to learn. If there’s one thing I’ve had to come to terms with after three decades in the booze business, it’s that those who think they know anything about wine simply love shoving their knowledge down your throat. While it sometimes comes with a bitter finish, if you can stomach their pompous ballyhoo, most people who show up for a “fancy” wine tasting will be happy to take you under their wing as long as you keep your comments to yourself. I guarantee there will more fakers at your event than wine stains. Keeping things real will ensure you’re not at the receiving end of an uppity eye roll and allow you to soak in what knowledge you think is worthy of adding to your mental rolodex. Now, it doesn’t hurt to do a little research. Ask for a list of the wines being poured so you can get a feel for the selection and highlight those you really need to try even if it’s just those with the coolest-sounding names. If there’s a theme, say the wines of Bordeaux, hit up the internet for a little background on the region and what to expect from its output. The key to any learning opportunity is to have some takeaways. Since you’re never going to become an expert overnight (heck, I’m still trying to get there), consider what you really want to know to get you on that road and ask those questions. If anyone dares give you the business just smile and wave; there are plenty of tasting opportunities out there looking for your support and, trust me on this, you’ll find a more welcoming one very easily. × OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 17
MAV CHEFS
2017 Every year, Quench profiles Canadian chefs who are contributing that elusive something to the food scene, helping to change it, helping it to evolve. This year’s lineup is (often unintentionally) helping to define Canadian cuisine, which is no mean feat. Mark Perrier of Osteria Savio Volpe in Vancouver takes Italian cuisine back to its purely local origins, transforming traditional Italian dishes into meals you can only find in Canada; Michael Hunter at Antler Kitchen and Bar in Toronto melds wild, foraged ingredients and game meats with his European-inspired style and technique to craft dishes that showcase Canada’s natural products; Simon Mathys at Manitoba Restaurant in Montreal celebrates Canada’s large forests by bringing nature (and trees and bark) to the plate; and Dan Vorstermans at The Highwayman puts a Spanish twist on Halifax’s favourite export, seafood. These Mav Chefs know that our culinary identity isn’t about one specific style, but rather the combination of many cultural influences made new by incorporating Canada’s unique ingredients. I spoke with each of these creative, cuisine-defining chefs to find out what drives them and what’s in store for Canada’s culinary identity — and if it can really be defined.
by Lisa Hoekstra
A love of wine and all things beverage has seeped into the Canadian consciousness — finding a restaurant with exquisite food AND a great beverage menu isn’t as hard as it once was. That’s why, this year, we’re including our first Mav Sommelier.
Véronique Dalle is the co-owner of Moleskine, a three-part restaurant that offers takeout (through the street-level walk-up window), a pizzeria on the first floor and a 30-seat fine dining restaurant on the second floor. Dalle’s goal, in partnership with her co-owners — chef Frédéric St-Aubin, Bruno Braën and Catherine Bélanger (the latter two are also owners of neighbouring restaurant, Pullman) — is to make wine more approachable to everyone. It’s not about haute cuisine and crazy-expensive bottles. Instead, wine, beer and cocktails are acceptable alternatives to soft drinks for pairing with your pizza. 18 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
WHAT MAKES A GOOD SOMMELIER?
I think to be a good sommelier, you need to have a very good technical knowledge, you need to be a very good taster, you need to have a very good knowledge of the kitchen preparations —the type of fats that are used in cooking will change the texture of tannins — the different cuts of meat. You need to know so many things and to be interested in such a wide variety of things to make your proposition interesting or coherent with what they’re having. After that, if your guest doesn’t want what you propose, you need to be able to get him to listen, to get him the closest to what he wants with being as close [to] what the dish will allow. I think to be a good sommelier, you definitely need to listen to the guest first; I think it’s the main thing. And all the old-school sommeliers will say the same thing. After that, the guest is there to have fun. If he wants a Red Bull vodka with his tuna, well, so be it. What can you do?
VÉRONIQUE DALLE SOMMELIER MOLESKINE MONTREAL, QC SO THEN, WHEN YOU’RE RECOMMENDING A WINE, YOUR END GOAL IS TO PROVIDE THEM WITH AN ENJOYABLE EXPERIENCE?
My end goal is to provide them with an enjoyable experience. But my motivation is a bit larger than that. I need to respect the producer, because I’m just an intermediary between the producer and customer. So, I need to propose a product and treat it as it should [be treated]: the right temperature, the right glass, to make its presentation the best, to optimize the tasting of the wine. And through that, I have. It may be a little bit pretentious of me, because I have a lot of repeats, [but] I see where [my guests] start, and I want them to travel further. So, if they don’t, I’m not going to force them. I think that’s why I have customers that follow me for so long. Since the beginning of my career … my first job out of school, I still have guests that follow me until now. It’s been 20 years. They tell me “remember when you got me … you made me taste this wine that came from Serbia … you made it [a] blind taste because I told you ‘no’ and you brought it to the bar and told me, ‘I just opened this, taste that” and oh my god, it’s so extraordinary.” For me, it’s always a bit of fun. I know I’m a bit direct and sometimes a bit cocky, but it’s always from a good place, you know. And, people, they enjoy it.
cient. Since I have no sommelier downstairs, and I have no place for recycling, we decided to do wine on tap. And for upstairs, we have a short wine list that changes every week, so I would like it to be a little bit more wine-oriented, because this is who I am.
WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE WINE RIGHT NOW?
I can tell you I already sold all of it this year. It’s a producer that, year after year, I love to get his wines. The producer’s name is Richard Leroy, he’s from Anjou, France. He produces a white Chenin that’s called Le Clos des Rouliers. He does two cuvées, but on vintage 2014, which was this year’s, he does a top cuvée, which was Noëls de Montbenault. This tasted … wow. So much energy in the wine. Beautiful, beautiful Chenin Blanc. There are some tastings that touch you and they make you feel “wow, this is extraordinary” and “I’m so lucky to taste this.” One grape variety. One vintage. No blend, no nothing. Just the expression of one space from one place in the world, by one person who works at that spot. It was a remarkable wine. This wine was one of the top of the year for me. I couldn’t say in my career what I preferred, because I love Burgundy, but this was remarkable.
YOUR GOAL WITH MOLESKINE, IS IT WINE-BASED OR FOOD-BASED, OR A COMBINATION OF THE TWO?
At the beginning, it was not wine-oriented project. Downstairs is mostly a pizzeria, and we have a collaboration with organic wine producers from France, friends of mine who don’t do bulk wine at all. Like Mathieu Lapierre, a really well-known Morgon producer, sold me 600 litres because I wanted to give students easy access to wine, for them not to drink Coca-Cola, but for them to drink a good glass of Beaujolais with their pizza. For me, it was my goal, still teaching. Still going towards demystifying that good wine is for everyone, it doesn’t need to cost you an arm and a leg. It’s so much fun just to have a good glass of wine with a pizza; it’s simple, good, effiOCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 19
DAN VORSTERMANS
THE HIGHWAYMAN HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA For someone whose career in the kitchen started by answering a help-wanted ad on Kijiji, Chef Dan Vorstermans has carved out a solid place for himself in Nova Scotia. His sixmonth stint at that first restaurant inspired him to become a chef. In 2010, he moved to Halifax to study culinary arts at Nova Scotia Community College while working at Chives. After gaining experience as sous chef at Morris East, he and his wife, Ceilidh Sutherland, opened Field Guide in 2013. This first foray into restaurant ownership gave him the creative bug and, in 2016, he, his wife and business partners Adam MacLeod and Michael Hopper opened The Highwayman. At The Highwayman, Vorstermans focuses on Spanish food — fresh fish, cured meats, pintxos — a culinary style that works well with the natural produce and ingredients found in Nova Scotia. WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT COOKING?
I love that cooking is always different. I never liked the sciences or math when I was in school because there was a rule for everything; there wasn’t much room for interpretation. When you’re cooking, especially in a restaurant, you’re constantly making decisions on the fly, making changes and adjustments to get things just right. No two days are ever the same, which can get exhausting, but it’s exhilarating at the same time.
WHAT IS THE BIGGEST INFLUENCE ON YOUR COOKING STYLE AND WHY?
Currently my biggest influence is Spanish cuisine. I love the simplicity and focus on quality ingredients in Spanish cuisine. When you keep things simple, the focus can be on having a good time with friends and family. With the exception of “modern Spanish cuisine,” it’s not about complex cooking techniques or overly complicated dishes, it’s just about sitting down and eating really flavourful food.
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WHY DID YOU GUYS CHOOSE THE HIGHWAYMAN POEM AS YOUR INSPIRATION AND HOW DOES IT SHAPE WHAT YOU DO WITH THE MENU/SERVICE/ BRAND/DIRECTION AT THE HIGHWAYMAN?
We chose Highwayman mostly because we just liked the name and the imagery that it provokes: sort of dark and moody, elegant but not “fancy.” It inspired our branding and the design of the restaurant a lot. There’s a lot of imagery in the poem — talk of fabrics, colours, textures — and things that we used to inspire the design of the restaurant.
WHAT CHALLENGES HAVE YOU FACED FUSING TOGETHER SPANISH CUISINE AND NOVA SCOTIAN INGREDIENTS?
Nova Scotia is a very small province, and therefore we don’t have a ton of purchasing power. Unfortunately, this means that a lot of things — seafood in particular — gets shipped to other markets before we can even get our hands on them here at home. It sounds crazy, but my biggest struggle on a day-to-day basis is getting good-quality, fresh seafood for our restaurant. Luckily, there are a couple people working really hard to change this, but there’s still a long way to go.
ROASTED CAULIFLOWER WITH RADISH TOP PESTO IN YOUR OPINION, WHAT IS THE ESSENCE OF CANADIAN CUISINE?
I don’t know if there is an “essence of Canadian cuisine.” We have so much regional diversity, plus the diversity brought by immigrants. All that added to the fact that Canada is such a gigantic country with so many different agricultural regions, and the diversity of things like fish species from coast to coast, makes it difficult to pick one unifying aspect to all of it. I think that all this makes Canada a really interesting place to be making food, though, because there aren’t such strict traditions or expectations that you might get in a country like France or Japan.
HOW DOES YOUR DRINKS MENU PLAY INTO/COMPLEMENT THE FOOD YOU SERVE AT THE HIGHWAYMAN?
Our wine list is mainly Spanish and Spanish-style wines, which is a no brainer. Our sommelier Nicole does an amazing job. We also have a great list of sherries and amari, both of which are just catching on in Halifax. The cocktail scene here has been growing a lot over the last few years (since we opened Field Guide). So, with Highwayman, we wanted to introduce people to something new. We do also have a great cocktail menu, and a gin and tonic menu with a selection of about 10 different gins with complimentary garnishes (the G&T is the unofficial drink of Spain).
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE MEAL WHEN IT’S COLD AND RAINY OUTSIDE?
1 large cauliflower 1 bunch radishes, with tops left on 1/2 cup whole blanched almonds 50 g Idiazabal cheese 1 large garlic clove 1/3 cup mild olive oil (plus more for the roasting the cauliflower) Salt 50 g white anchovy fillets (boquerones) 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 2. Trim any large leaves off the cauliflower, then
cut into quarters. Toss with enough oil to coat the outside and sprinkle generously with salt. Place the quarters flat side down in a covered roasting pan or a large Dutch oven. Roast for 30 to 40 minutes or until the thickest part of the stem is almost completely cooked through. 3. Toast the almonds at the same time for 10 to 15 minutes, or until they are nicely browned. 4. Meanwhile, trim off the radish tops and wash them very well. Chop the radish tops as finely as you can. Add half of the toasted almonds and the garlic and chop them into the radish tops until there are no large pieces. Grate the Idiazabal with a microplane and mix it all together in a bowl. Season with salt and add enough olive oil to make a loose pesto. 5. Slice the radishes as thinly as possible, using a mandoline if you have one. Roughly chop the remaining almonds. 6. To serve, char the cauliflower on all sides in a very hot cast iron pan with a bit of oil, or on the barbecue. Arrange the cauliflower with the cut sides facing up on a large platter. Spoon the pesto overtop, then top with the almonds, radish slices and the anchovies.
Something like a roast chicken, or lasagna. Something hearty and warm and that takes a long time to make. It’s fun to spend a couple hours in the kitchen when it’s cold and rainy. OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 21
MARK PERRIER
OSTERIA SAVIO VOLPE VANCOUVER, BC
HOW DID YOU GO FROM A BSC IN FORESTRY TO BEING A CHEF?
I was lucky enough to grow up in a family in which my mother cooked dinner every night. Nothing fancy, but always made from scratch with good ingredients. She made her own bread and canned in the summer. I always loved eating but never really cooked anything until second-year university when I moved out of residence and had to fend for myself. I started messing around in the kitchen and trying to figure out how I was going to feed myself while at school and realized that I had a knack for making food that tasted good. Soon enough, I was spending more time worrying about what to cook for dinner than my forestry studies. As soon as I graduated, I enrolled in cooking school.
WHAT IS THE STYLE YOU’RE GOING FOR AND HOW DO YOU ACHIEVE IT?
Perrier started out in forestry — he got his BSc from the University of British Columbia — but took a sharp turn into Vancouver’s Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts, graduating at the top of his class. After years of working in upscale French kitchens, Perrier needed a break from the restaurant biz for a bit. He spent two-and-a-half years at Two Rivers Specialty Meats, mastering whole-animal butchery. All of this drive pushed him towards one goal — to run his own kitchen — which he does as Osteria Savio Volpe. If you’re looking for uncomplicated fare, look no further. Simply prepared vegetables. Fruit picked at the height of the season. Handmade pastas, cured meats and whole grilled fish. None of these descriptors truly shout “Italian,” but they are, especially after Perrier gets his hands on them. But they’re also truly Canadian — every ingredient used in his menu comes from the soil, trees, waters and farms of Vancouver and the surrounding area. 22 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
My cooking style — and the food I make at Savio Volpe — is largely influenced by traditional Italian peasant cooking, la cucina povera. I cook Italian food from “here” — meaning Vancouver. I take the very best products available locally and prepare them in an Italian way, using traditional Italian techniques and restraint. We buy the best ingredients and do as little as possible to them to get them on the plate. To me, rustic food is cooked unpretentiously and in a way that honours the true, unadulterated spirit of the ingredient. A perfect example of this philosophy is our whole suckling pig, which is cooked on a spit over an apple wood fire, served with its crackling, dripping roast potatoes and cipollini onions, and a fresh salsa verde.
WHAT IS THE “LOCAL PERSPECTIVE” AND HOW DOES IT CHANGE THE TRADITIONAL ITALIAN DISH?
I believe that, at its core, Italian cuisine is hyper-local. To simply copy a dish from Italy and try to recreate here in Vancouver is not only impossible — we have a unique climate and access to different ingredients — but it wouldn’t be adhering to cooking in the true spirit of the cuisine. You need to cook the very best of what is available where you are, and prepare it with an Italian spirit. I’m not Italian, did not grow up eating this type of food and have never been there so how could I cook “authentic” Italian food? When I use terms like “rustic” and “simple” to describe the cooking that we do at Savio Volpe, I see these as virtues. PHOTOS: KNAUF AND BROWN
RABBIT CACCIATORE WITH PINE MUSHROOMS HAVE YOU DEVELOPED A SENSE OF CANADIAN CUISINE? IF SO, IN YOUR OPINION, WHAT IS IT?
Outside of Quebec and parts of the East Coast, I don’t feel that there’s really anything you could call a Canadian cuisine, except maybe Kraft Dinner! Our country is too new; we’re from too many places across the globe and came of age in the modern world. Traditional cuisines in other parts of the world developed slowly over hundreds of years because of isolation and cultures trying to make the most out of limited scarce resources. For a large portion of our history, there has been an abundance in variety of ingredients, travel between different geographic areas has become common and ingredients are shipped out of season from everywhere to everywhere. Canada is a multicultural country with a varied landscape and our cuisine reflects that diversity.
SAVIO VOLPE DOESN’T HAVE TOO MANY COCKTAILS OR “FUSSY” DRINKS — WHY CHOOSE THIS DIRECTION AND HOW DOES YOUR DRINKS LIST PLAY INTO/COMPLEMENT THE FOOD YOU SERVE?
In my opinion, you cannot eat Italian food without wine — they are inseparable. We focus on developing a curated wine list and offer a few simple cocktail options, such as the Negroni or Aperol Spritz. For me, cocktails are for getting drunk, not for pairing with a meal.
1 whole rabbit (substitute chicken if you prefer) Salt and pepper, to taste 2 bay leaves 1 sprig rosemary 2 sprigs thyme 3 cloves garlic 1/4 cup olive oil 1/2 cup flour 1/2 cup pancetta, diced 1 onion, finely chopped Dry porcini mushrooms, rehydrated and chopped, soaking liquid reserved White wine 2 cans Italian plum whole tomatoes (14 oz) Chicken stock, as needed Fresh pine mushrooms Parsley and garlic, chopped together 1. Divide the rabbit into sections, chopping through the bones with a heavy knife when necessary, so you have two legs, two shoulders, two bellies, one neck, two ribs and two loin sections. Season with salt and pepper. 2. Pound the bay leaves, rosemary, thyme and garlic cloves into a paste. Add the olive oil and rub the herb paste onto the rabbit. Cover and leave to marinate in the refrigerator overnight. 3. The next day, lightly dust the rabbit sections with flour and sear in olive oil until golden. Remove from pan and set aside. 4. Add the pancetta and chopped onion to the pan. Cook over medium heat until the onion is soft and begins to caramelize. 5. Add the rehydrated porcini mushrooms and cook for a few more minutes. Add the wine and deglaze the pan. 6. Reduce the heat slightly, then add the porcini soaking liquid, tomatoes and rabbit pieces. Add chicken stock until the rabbit is half-submerged. Bring to a low simmer, partially cover and braise until the rabbit is tender — roughly 40 minutes — adding more brodo (broth) as needed. 7. Garnish with pine mushrooms sautéed with garlic and parsley. Serve with plenty of bread for the juices. OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 23
SIMON MATHYS MANITOBA RESTAURANT MONTREAL, QC Chef Mathys joined the Manitoba Restaurant team in 2016; owners Simon Cantin and Elisabeth Cardin introduced him to the concept of forest-to-plate and transforming Canadian-sourced ingredients into symbolic representations of our country’s large natural ecosystems. Mathys draws on his education at L’École Hôtelière in Laval and his experiences working at St-Christophe with Stéphane Charpentier, at Laurie Raphael with Daniel Vezina and at France’s La Ferme de l’Hospital. His return to Montreal in 2011 was followed by an increase in his prestige: head chef at Bar et Boeuf followed by a stint as head chef at Racines. Now, he’s redefining the simplicity of eating well, drinking well and having fun with food while also working towards giving Canadian cuisine a leg up on the world’s food scene. HOW DO YOU BRING THE FOREST ONTO THE PLATE?
With the foraged products. By the history of Quebec’s cooking, too. Bringing a little bit back of the memories that we can discover. And with the plating, we play with the different layers of colour and texture. So, we bring different layers, and visually we try to bring back some of those colours. Like, we sell seal for now, so we try to bring back some white element for the snow, kind of play around with where we have the product.
DO YOU FORAGE FOR INGREDIENTS?
For both of the owners, it’s an obsession. In the summer, we forage the most. We start on the North Coast, Gaspésie. We move pretty much every weekend to forests — anywhere really. And depending on the season, we bring back anything we can find over there. We also buy a lot from other pickers. All over Quebec.
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IT’S BEEN SAID THAT YOUR FOOD EVOKES MEMORIES OF HIKING AND BEING SURROUNDED BY TREES. HOW DO YOU CREATE THAT?
We infuse. Like we’re making chocolate ganache infused with pine. You can really taste the pine but eating pine is not good. It’s not what they eat. For the chocolate, we infuse it with the water. Bring the water to a boil and make the ganache with the water. And it doesn’t contain any dairy so those who are lactose intolerant can eat it.
IN YOUR OPINION, WHAT IS CANADIAN CUISINE?
It’s all to discover. We don’t have thousands and thousands of years of cooking history, like in Europe. But I think if we can make our own choice… [to] bring some new Quebec cuisine, with all the products and the small history we have, and push it forward. There’s a big history of mixing things, with the British invaders, French invaders, the First Nations here. I mean, the whole cooking history comes from all these people coming in and interacting with the First Nations. So, we try to find these spots or points where these cultures cross together and make our culinary history. PHOTOS: PHILIPPE RICHELET
IS THERE A SPECIAL STORY BEHIND THE NAME OF YOUR RESTAURANT — MANITOBA — SINCE YOU’RE IN MONTREAL, PRETTY FAR FROM MANITOBA?
The main idea is we wanted to have a link with the First Nations. So, we wanted the name to be Native American, without bringing back the whole political history with the First Nations. For most Quebecers, Manitoba is just an empty space with bison in it. If we have to bring back the political history of Manitoba, it’s Louis Riel and the Métis. So, [what’s] already embedded in that name is the mixing of these two cultures: the colonial one and the First Nations. And the name sounds good in French and in English, and it looks good graphically. And it’s an easy name to remember.
IS THERE ANYTHING THAT YOU DON’T LIKE ABOUT OTHER RESTAURANTS THAT YOU TRY TO FIX HERE IN YOUR COOKING OR HOW YOU WORK WITH YOUR TEAM? We try to reduce the waste, for sure. Use more local products to encourage the economy in Quebec. And the schedule for the team. People are working four days a week, so they can have a life doing what they love to do. It’s long hours, working all the time. I try to contain that, make sure that everyone’s happy. They can have a long weekend, three days off to go do what they want.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE MEAL WHEN IT’S COLD AND RAINY OUTSIDE?
SEAL WITH CELERIAC, ELDERBERRIES AND SMOKED BUTTER 60 g of seal meat per person 1 celeriac Salt Canola oil 200 ml brown stock 1 tbsp smoked butter 1 tsp elderberries Fleur de sel, to taste 1. In a pan over high heat, sear the seal for 1 minute per side. Set aside on a plate cool. 2. Place the celeriac directly in the flame of a grill on high heat. Burn it all the way around, until soft to the touch. Let cool. Peel the celeriac, then use a Rotato Potato peeler to make a long string. 3. Cut the seal into small cubes and place in a bowl. Add salt and a drop of canola oil. Shake to mix. 4. In a pan, reduce the brown stock by 3/4. Add the elderberries and smoked butter. Stir to make a sauce. 5. Place the seal cubes on a plate. Add the sauce and top with a long celeriac string. Season with fleur de sel.
Braised meat. Big pot of braised meat with roots and vegetables, and a big piece of bread. It just has to be good braised meat. OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 25
MICHAEL HUNTER ANTLER KITCHEN AND BAR TORONTO, ONTARIO Chef Michael Hunter is probably one of the only Mav Chefs on this list who is actively trying to define Canadian cuisine. His passion for nature, and all it has to offer Canadians, is evident when you speak with him. He’s a regular forager, gathering ingredients for the restaurant, and a hunter. Everything on his menu is game-based (meat), local/seasonal (produce) or foraged (fungi, berries). If you usually order the steak or chicken, then you won’t find these options on his menu. Try bison or Cornish hen instead. Antler Kitchen and Bar’s culinary theme is “Canadiana”; Hunter showcases contemporary Canadian cuisine with flavours from Ontario, Quebec and even British Columbia. He is transforming familiar dishes — like Jamaican patties, gyoza and even burgers — into local creations. WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT COOKING?
I’ve always loved food. So, even as a kid, I just loved to eat. As I got older, I just really liked trying new things. And then, as I got into cooking professionally, I really fell in love with organic gardening and foraging for wild food and hunting, just because it tastes so much better than what you buy at the grocery store.
WHAT EXACTLY DOES IT MEAN TO FORAGE?
My take on it is: I go to the woods and pick. Right now, wild leeks are coming into season. So, we go pick wild leeks, bring them to the restaurant and serve them. We pick morel mushrooms, pheasant back mushrooms, wild ginger, cedar, sumac, watercress, wild mints. All these things we go and pick ourselves. So, that’s foraging. We’re not growing it; we’re finding it in the woods.
IS THERE A SUSTAINABILITY CONCERN? YOU HAVE TO MAKE SURE DON’T PICK TOO MUCH?
Yeah, definitely. Wild leeks are a big one. They banned it in Quebec, because they don’t grow back very well. [But] in Ontario there’s no law against harvesting wild leeks. There are definitely things you need to know when foraging certain things.
WHY DO YOU FORAGE INSTEAD OF BUYING?
It’s really strange. It’s a bit of a primal urge thing — satisfaction. It’s fun. I love being in nature, I think about my menu when I’m out in nature. I take my kids; it’s a family outing. I take my partner — she comes along with me. It’s very therapeutic to be in nature as opposed to a fast-paced crazy restaurant. So, it’s kind of just … my therapy. But also, it tastes great. 26 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
WHY DID YOU SPECIFICALLY CHOOSE TO INCORPORATE THOSE FORAGED INGREDIENTS, GAME MEATS AND THAT WILD ASPECT INTO YOUR MENU?
It’s really just what I love to eat. For me, when you cook what you love, it tastes better. You know, you’re passionate about it. Our whole brand is Canadiana, wild food, forest to table. And for that to be authentic, we have to use those ingredients.
WHAT IS CANADIANA?
Canada’s a very unique country in terms of food because our immigration is so huge. Our cuisine has turned into a bit of a melting pot. Which is really cool. But I think the Canadian food scene has a young identity. My take on it is: I’m born and raised here, and I’m highlighting the ingredients that are only from Canada. I love to eat avocados but I don’t serve them at my restaurant because we’re highlighting Canadian producers, farmers and foragers. So, we’re using, I would say, about 90 percent only Canadian products in the restaurant. A lot of those are regional Canada — we buy our wild fish from BC and the east coast, and also the Great Lakes. Our bison comes from Alberta, our deer comes from Ontario, our rabbit and wild boar come from Ontario. So, we’re just highlighting Canadian ingredients and farmers.
SO, YOU TAKE THE ESSENCE OF CANADIAN CUISINE — GAME, LOCAL — AND YOU APPLY THESE TYPES OF COOKING METHODS TO THE INGREDIENTS?
Yeah, I’m cooking something sous vide; I’m braising things; I’m serving rabbit with pasta. There’s lots of Italian dishes with rabbit and pasta, but we’re using local rabbit and local vegetables in that dish. So, it’s kind of a mash-up between my cooking background and Canadian ingredients.
RICOTTA CAVATELLI WITH VENISON RAGU CAVATELLI DOUGH
For this recipe, you will need a cavatelli machine (or a wooden gnocchi board with lined grooves).
500 g ricotta cheese 800 g all-purpose flour 200 g semolina 5 g salt 1 g grated nutmeg (optional) 1/2 cup milk 1 egg 1. Place all the ingredients into a mixing bowl and mix with your hands, adding water as needed, until the dough comes together. Transfer the dough to a table and knead until it is a firm, smooth ball. Cover the with a damp cloth or plastic wrap and rest for 30 minutes. 2. Cut the dough into 6 equal-sized pieces. Roll each one into a log 1 cm thick and partially flatten into strips. Feed each strip of dough through the cavatelli machine while turning the handle. If you are using a gnocchi board, cut your logs into 1/2 cm rectangular slices and push the dough downwards onto the board, using your thumb to curl the dough and create a concave centre with grooves on the outside. 3. Spread out the dumplings on a baking sheet, dusting with extra semolina to keep from sticking.
VENISON RAGU
2 kg deboned venison meat (neck, shoulder or leg) 1 large Spanish onion 1 carrot 2 stalks celery 6 roma tomatoes 4 cloves garlic 100 ml olive oil 350 ml red wine 200 g dried wild mushrooms (preferably saffron cap) 1 bouquet garni (thyme, parsley, and bay leaves tied with twine) 2 l dark venison stock Salt and pepper, to taste 1. Preheat a large skillet. Cut the vegetables into medium dice. Crush and mince the garlic. Season the venison meat generously with salt and pepper. 2. Add the oil to the hot skillet and add the venison; do not stir until the meat is caramelized. Transfer the meat to a roasting pan and set aside. 3. Add the vegetables to the skillet and sauté until they begin to caramelize. Add the garlic and stir; deglaze the pan with the red wine. Add the soft mirepoix to the roasting pan. Add the stock, bouquet garni and dried mushrooms, then cover the pan with foil. 4. Bake at 325°F for 2 1/2 hours or until the meat is tender. Use a fork to pick apart into large pieces, leaving the meat in the liquid to cool.
TO FINISH THE PLATE
250 250 250 1 50 50 250
g butternut squash g turnip g parsnip bunch kale g unsalted butter ml olive oil g grated Parmesan cheese Salt, to taste
1. Fill one of the large pots with salted
water and bring to a boil (pasta water should be seasoned to taste mildly like the ocean). 2. While the water boils, mince the root vegetables. Tear the kale leaves off the stem and roughly chop. Heat a second large pot to medium-high and sauté the vegetables in the butter and olive oil until tender. 3. Add the braising liquid, pulled venison meat and soft mirepoix to the sautéed vegetables. Reduce by half over medium heat. 4. Once the water in the other pot comes to a boil, cook the fresh cavatelli for 5 minutes. 5. Drain and transfer the cooked dumplings to the ragu, stirring with a wooden spoon. Add the cheese and cook for an additional 2 minutes. 6. Spoon into serving bowls and top with additional grated Parmesan. ×
OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 27
PIWOSA by Tod Stewart
So, I was sitting at a bar in downtown Toronto slurping glasses of Chenin Blanc with the Cape Crusaders. No, that’s not a typo; I meant to say “cape” and not “caped.” Though these guys are superheroes in a way, they were wearing jeans rather than spandex (as was I, so let’s get that cleared up right away). Their mission isn’t ridding the world of crime but rather ridding it of ignorance, preconception and overt cluelessness. All in the name of South African wine. Gesondheid to that! The Premium Independent Wineries of South Africa — PIWOSA for short (which is not quite as sexy as, say, UNCLE or SPECTRE maybe, but certainly acceptable as far as acronyms go) — is a 10-winery league of merry (as far as I could tell) men (and woman) that came together via a shared vision. “As a united force we aim, over time, to open up the World to premium South African wine consumption and to bring the spotlight very much onto the flourishing premium facet of the South African category” reads the group’s website. But surely the world — at least the wine world — already knows about the fabulous wines South Africa makes, ones that sell at equally fabulous prices, no? Well, maybe not. “South Africa remains a largely unknown winemaking country in Canada. It is geographically very far away so, quite fairly, many people have not visited and therefore, their frame of reference is limited,” suggested Laurel Keenan, Market Manager, Wines of South Africa, Canada and the U.S. “That, in and of itself, can be a big obstacle. The second is the amount of shelf space we are generally afforded in retail stores, which is quite small and sometimes hard to locate. For a long time, the selection was also not reflective of the best wines being produced [in South Africa], but that is slowly changing.” 28 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
ALEX DALE
What that translates to, as far as South African winemakers are concerned, is frustration. This frustration, combined with an equal portion of necessity, is what PIWOSA was built on. “It was a combination of a lot of years of frustration,” admitted Radford Dale’s Alex Dale, PIWOSA co-founder and director, when he joined me for some Chenin
Blanc along with Paul Clüver of the eponymously named Elgin Valley-based Paul Clüver Wines, and Bruce Jack, from The Drift Farm in the Overberg Highlands. As Dale noted, “All of us [were] travelling around the planet — going to the shows, working with importers, doing our bit — and realizing that the reputation of South African wines, in many markets, is be-
BRUCE JACK
ing driven by wines on the low end of the scale. This isn’t South Africa — especially not South Africa today.” Keenan, when asked if there really is a misconception among Canadian consumers when it comes to South African wines, didn’t tiptoe. “In a word, yes. The current brand lead in the category is under $10, so there may be a misconception that all South African wine is ‘cheap and cheerful,’” which is categorically not the case. South Africa’s real strength lies in the $15 to $25 price band, where it over-delivers and outperforms higher priced wines from other countries time and again in blind tastings. The challenge lies in first getting people to taste the wines and discover what has been going on in terms of quality growth over the last decade.” People like Dale and the rest of the PIWOSA contingent realized that if this was to change, they would have to, in Dale’s words, “roll up our sleeves and do it ourselves.” With no government funding, member wineries were faced with little choice but to crack open their collective piggybanks and pool their resources. “Either we clubbed together to make a difference and make it happen by ourselves, or it wasn’t going to happen at all,” Dale emphasized.
One might wonder — okay, I wondered — how just 10 wineries, in a sea of about a thousand in South Africa, can hope to have any impact on the global market. Clüver was quick to point out that PIWOSA represents the “super-premium” tier of South African wines. In other words, the wines that fall into the price bracket noted by Keenan where the real “bang for the buck” starts to be realized. And while there are other South African winery associations in operation, none, in Clüver’s eyes, “are as committed to the process or as organized and active as we are.” That said, he is emphatic that PIWOSA member wineries aren’t the only ones producing fantastic wines at, what he says are, “ridiculously low prices.” So, how does PIWOSA intend to wake up the collective Canadian palate to the quality and value of South Africa’s vinous treasures without bags of advertising and marketing dollars? The strategy is as simple as it is effective: education via ingestion. The only way to really get people to see the amazing quality-to-value ratio of top-quality South African wines is to get people to taste them. “What we’ve done,” Clüver revealed, “in the UK, in Shanghai, Hong Kong, Singapore, Tokyo, Dubai, is to invite top som-
meliers from all over those geographical areas to blind taste a series of phenomenal international varietal wines, including our own, so they can get an unbiased picture of how South African wines stack up. More than stack up, in fact, beat out, some of the world’s best. It certainly knocks down preconceived ideas.” Clüver likened the exercise to a mini “Judgement of Paris.” “Nobody took Californian wines seriously until that event,” he maintained, referencing when a California Chardonnay beat out the best from France. I listen to this with a degree of incredulity. Are these guys telling me that the world’s “top sommeliers” are not familiar with the quality of — and even the existence of — the wines of South Africa? “Are you guys telling me that the world’s top sommeliers are not familiar with the quality of — and even the existence of — the wines of South Africa?” I ask, incredulity dripping off the question. “Definitely in the United States,” Clüver admitted, “where the words ‘South Africa’ and ‘wine’ sometimes seem incongruous. They have to make that leap of faith and accept that we make wine in Africa.” “But that’s an American thing,” Dale interjected. “This is Canada. Canadians know we have trees and schools …” OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 29
“Escalators, even,” Jack, the quieter of the trio, dryly informed me. Possibly even winemakers, methinks. The real problem, as I see it, is trying to work from the bottom up. If you get into the market at the high end, it’s fairly easy to work down (look, in no disparaging way, at what Robert Mondavi did — reportedly personally disfavourably — with the Woodbridge brand). But it’s not so easy going the other way. “The South African entry into the major market, after 1994, was never from the premium end. It was always volume, always commodity, always the lowest common denominator. So, our collective mission — our task — is to eliminate old preconceptions and raise the bar. A lot of sommeliers are very Euro-centric with their wine lists and perceive South African wines in a way that is completely inaccurate. We want — and need — to change this, and the impact we can have as a collective is exponential to what we could do alone,” Clüver goes on to say. EXPONENTIAL VALUE, MORE OR LESS, IS THE THEME that drives PI-
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WOSA’s main message, which is: put head-to-head, and judged dollar-for-dollar, premium South African wines will consistently offer a better return on investment than those from any other country. Personally, I tend to agree. What I find remarkable about the wines of South Africa is their ability to straddle the delicate line between Old World “funk” and New World fruit. As well, I find South African wines to be increasingly elegant. “Sure, there are a number of South African producers that are turned on by status and that are still producing the over-extracted, showy wines that typically command high scores,” Dale admitted, adding “but that’s yesterday’s news. If you look at the guys who are really driving fine wines in South Africa today, these are people who are all about the wine, not the status.” “I also think that what you’re seeing more and more of in South Africa is regional focus,” Jack revealed. “The question we are bombarded with is, especially in Asia, ‘What’s South Africa stand for? Should it be Pinotage?’ We hear this because if you think of, say, New Zealand, it’s Sauvignon Blanc. In Argentina, it’s Malbec. In Australia, it’s Shiraz. My retort to this is, ‘What
do you associate France with?’ The answer depends entirely on the region, and this is what’s happening in South Africa. Elgin, for example, is becoming better known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. For Swartland, it’s southern Rhône blends.” Keenan, for one, agrees with Jack’s read on how certain countries have, in a sense, embraced a “national grape,” and understands how the diversity of South Africa’s wines can be a bit of a double-edged sword. On the one side, it gives wine lovers an amazing selection. On the other side, well, I’ll let Keenan explain. “I think, from a consumer point of view, South Africa can be difficult to place. Certain regions of the world have very comfortably hung their proverbial hats on a single grape. It doesn’t mean that is all they produce, but it allows the consumer an entry point where they can become familiar with something that region does very well. South Africa’s inherent variety and diversity, which is a core strength, makes for a difficult message.” Which is not at all unlike the winemaking situation right here in Canada. Obviously, PIWOSA members — and the South African wine industry, in general — face a number of challenges. The consumer ones have been spelled out pretty clearly by Clüver, Dale, Jack and Keenan, but there are also others. PIWOSA members are obviously clearly aware that South Africa’s apartheid past is baggage they will have to carry with them, no matter where they go. (The group’s ethics policies are broad and rigourous. “We have to be squeaky clean,” Dale emphasized.) There’s also the drought disaster that’s hit the Western Cape, which is currently the worst water shortage the area has seen in more than 100 years. Both realities have required skilful management of natural and human resources; but more effective use of both has translated into better businesses and better wines. “The human species — homo sapiens — originated in South Africa,” informed Jack as he brought our conversation to a close. “In fact, where we started thinking cognitively, it was exactly where we grow grapes. So, from my perspective, I’d like to say to Canadian wine aficionados that if soil is important — if terroir is important — then South African wines are the only ones that really taste like home.” ×
WHAT ELSE CAN WE DO by Michaela Morris
GERMANY MAKES EXCEPTIONAL RIESLING. No other
country demonstrates the range so appetizingly – from sparkling to still and thrillingly bone dry to lusciously sweet. After years of being under-appreciated and misunderstood, this grape has finally developed cult status with the most ardent followers tattooing Riesling across their forearms. After all its efforts to make Riesling cool, you’d think that Germany could just ride its wave. Alas, Riesling only represents 20 percent of the country’s production. So, the Germans set their sights on making a name for themselves with Pinot Noir as well. Known as Spätburgunder in Germany, it’s the only noble red grape that could historically ripen in Germany’s chilly climes and the warmer temperatures associated with climate change have made it even more reliable. Beyond this, better vineyard practices to achieve healthy grapes, lower yields, appropriate clones for Germany’s terroir and balanced use of oak have all contributed to improving quality. Even so, a major obstacle to Spätburgunder ascension was convincing Germany’s own producers that their Pinot Noir was competitive. In 2011, the German Wine Institute agreed to participate in a blind tasting in London. 20 German Pinot Noirs and 20 similarly priced Pinot Noirs from around the globe were ranked by a battalion of renowned journalists. The results? Seven out of the top 10 were German. While not definitive, it still boosted producers’ confidence and gave them something to talk about. Today, German Spätburgunder is finding a place on prominent wine lists internationally.
MULLER-CATOIR’S PHILIPP DAVID CATOIR
But is that it? Far from it! “We did a good job placing Riesling and Spätburgunder,” says Romana Echensperger, Master of Wine and a German wine educator. “Now it’s time to show the world what else we can do.” In Germany, the other burgunders are also going like gangbusters. Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) are on the rise in terms of popularity and plantings. Made in all sorts of guises, from simple and straightforward to full and rich, with techniques like skin contact and oak aging adding complexity, there’s plenty to explore. What excites me even more than the burgunder-wunder, though, is Germany’s sparkling wine. “This could be the next big thing,” agrees Echensperger. Besides being the highest per capita consumers of bubble, Germany is the third-largest producer of sparkling in the world, making a whopping 420 million bottles a year. It’s a confusing category, though, as much of it is made from a base wine of grapes coming from other countries and simply labelled “Sekt.” Think inexpensive tank method à la Henkell Trocken. While there is a place for this, it’s not truly representative of Germany. OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 31
KRACK ROSÉ BRUT 2014, PFALZ ($25) The three young Krack brothers established their own bubble-only label in 2015. The wines aren’t available outside Germany ... yet. For the rosé brut, Pinot Noir is fermented in oak, aged on the lees for 18 months and given a modest 3g/l dosage. Juicy, characterful and exuberant, it’s all cranberry and raspberry.
BARBARA AND JULIAN HUBER FROM WEINGUT BERNHARD HUBER
LINGENFELDER FREINSHEIMER MUSIKANTENBUCKEL SCHEUREBE TROCKEN 2012, PFALZ ($20) From the romantic-sounding Musikantenbuckel (“musician’s knoll”) vineyard, this “Shoy” bursts with gorgeous pink grapefruit, orange blossom and candied citrus peel. The palate is fresh, lively and dry with a subtle leesiness giving texture and weight.
MULLER-CATOIR SCHEUREBE TROCKEN 2015, PFALZ ($35) Pretty, fruity and exotic but not saccharine at all, it is dry and minerally with a persistent blood orange, guava and white flower character.
WEINGUT SALWEY OBERROTWEILER HENKENBERG WEISSBURGUNDER 2013, BADEN ($25) The volcanic soils of the Kaiserstuhl slopes give a powerful, smoky and structured expression of Pinot Blanc with an intriguing iodine underpinning. Oak aging lends some toast to peach and honey notes with plenty of acid to keep everything in balance.
WEINGUT THÖRLE SAULHEIMER PROBSTEY SILVANER TROCKEN 2015, RHEINHESSEN ($20) Quince and herbs, with noticeable yet well-integrated oak and an appetizing bitterness. It shows the potential of Silvaner and what it is capable of in caring hands.
LINGENFELDER ONYX GROSSKARLBACHER BURGWEG DORNFELDER SPATLESE 2011, PFALZ ($35) A charming mouthful of mulled spice, forward exuberant plum, dark berries and sweet vanilla with soft ripe tannins. Clearly crafted by a producer who respects Dornfelder.
WEINGUT BERNHARD HUBER ALTE REBEN CHARDONNAY 2014, BADEN ($30) Alte reben means “old vines” and these ones are grown in a limestone soil. Captivating flinty, nutty nose with a hint of toast. The fruit is lean and linear but there is lots of energy and concentration on the palate.
GRAFEN NEIPPERG NEIPPERGER SCHLOSSBERG GG SPÄTBURGUNDER 2012, WÜRTTEMBERG ($35) Fragrant red cherry, pleasant herbal tobacco and dried spice suggest a classy Pinot Noir. Well-integrated oak adds some structure and toastiness but does not overwhelm the fruit. 32 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
What is representative, however, is the growing number of small producers making premium traditional method sparkling from their own homegrown grapes. In fact, every single producer I visited greeted me with an exhilarating glass of fizz. Many examples were, unsurprisingly, made from Riesling while others featured Champagne’s classic grapes, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. For most of these estates, sparkling wine is a minor, albeit delicious, adjunct to their main production. However, there are a few brave producers who are hanging their hats solely on it. My first stop was Raumland in Rheinhessen, which set the bar very high. Widely regarded as Germany’s top bubble producer, Raumland focuses exclusively on traditional method sparkling. Volker Raumland established his estate in 1990, and since 2002 his vineyards have been certified organic. He has also progressively lowered dosage levels and increased lees aging for some of his cuvées. As much as he loves delving into the technical aspects of sparking, like any self-respecting German, he enjoys drinking it even more. “A magnum is the perfect size for two people,” proclaims Raumland, “if your wife doesn’t drink.” At the risk of sounding discouraging, this niche sector of high-quality sparkling wine will be an uphill battle. The problem is being sandwiched between two giants: Prosecco, on the one hand, is an affordable, everyday tank-method bubble, while Champagne, on the other, has the name to go along with the price. However, this doesn’t seem to have deterred the Germans. And I’m ready with glass in hand to support them.
Conversely, Germany has the market cornered for born-andbred grapes. While they offer a strong point of difference, the hurdle is the poor reputation these grapes have acquired. Silvaner is a particularly sad tale. A reliable grape, it was the most planted variety in Germany in the 1960s, but has since been in steady decline. True, it doesn’t reach the heights of Riesling. However, it does have great potential. Its downfall is in part due to its reliability, which is what led to plantings in lesser sites. Furthermore, in the past, it was often made sweet but, unlike Riesling, it doesn’t have the racy acidity to balance the sugar. Finally, more recently, textbook winemaking practices like low-fermentation temperatures and aging in stainless steel have yielded clean but boring wines. “France doesn’t help us promote Silvaner,” adds Echensperger referring to mediocre examples that hail from Alsace’s fertile plains.
IN GERMANY, FRANKEN IS THE SILVANER “SWEET” SPOT, AND HERE IT IS ENJOYING A RENAISSANCE. The extreme continental climate makes
Riesling less suitable while Silvaner thrives. The gypsum-rich limestone soil creates an intriguing, smoky nuttiness and creamy texture. Additionally, more adventurous winemaking, including cold soaking, skin contact, wild fermentation and aging in oak, has resulted in fascinating wines. Within Germany, Silvaner has been promoted as “spargel wine” but its food-pairing options go well beyond just asparagus. Silvaner’s dependability has also made it a popular candidate for crossings. Germany has bred many new grapes with
the intention of producing economically viable varieties that will reliably ripen in its cool climate. While many were initially successful in this regard, few demonstrated superior quality. Müller-Thurgau (not borne of Silvaner) and Bacchus are just a couple of examples. Unfortunately, over-cropping and the inevitable sweet style have led to their decline. Scheurebe (pronounced SHOY-ray-beh) provides an exception to the rule. Created in 1916 by Georg Scheu, it is a crossing of Riesling (for its excellent genes) with Bukettraube (a crossing of Silvaner and Trollinger). Originally called S. 88, it was later baptized “Scheurebe” in Scheu’s honour. It’s made in the same range of styles as Riesling and actually suits sweetness. With notes of passionfruit and citrus, dry versions even have some similarities with Sauvignon Blanc. Yet Scheurebe possesses juicy rather than raspy acidity and has ample body to go along with its aromas. The comparison with Sauvignon Blanc is particularly significant as plantings of this latter variety are on the rise in Germany while there were none 40 years ago. Within Germany, Sauvignon Blanc is considered an exotic grape but some growers, like Rainer Lingenfelder in Pfalz, ask, “Why plant Sauvignon Blanc? We should have something from our home.” I’ll admit that, along with the sparklings, Scheurebe was my biggest coup de coeur. I casually mentioned my wine crush to Lingenfelder when I arrived at his estate. Later, during the tasting, he ended up pouring three Scheurebes for me blind. While diverse, all reinforced my sentiments. A champion of these underdog grapes, he also introduced me to Morio Muscat, yet another crossing, and also poured one of the best Dornfelders I’ve ever tasted. The latter is an easy-to-grow, forgiving grape, which was bred in the 1950s as an alternative to Spätburgunder in order to offer wine with a dark colour. “It’s never very good and it’s usually not that bad either,” jokes Steffen Schindler of the German Wine Institute. After a low point in the 1990s, it is making a comeback and grown in plantings by 80 percent. A firm supporter, Lingenfelder proclaims, “It’s a very charming grape for a cool climate, with nice colour and tannin.” And Germany hasn’t stopped creating new grapes. Today’s needs are different, though. Developing fungal-resistant varieties is a priority, not just in Germany. The 1989 crossing of Silvaner and Müller-Thurgau with Chambourcin, with the results called Regent, has growing by 326 percent for this very reason. I tried a more recent experiment, currently called VB. Cal. 6-04, which counts Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and a fungal-resistant partner as parents. If successful, hopefully it will be bestowed with a more romantic moniker. The excitement and enthusiasm is palpable in Germany. Without discounting established producers, much of this energy stems from a new generation of winemakers. The young Christopher Köhr at Josef Köhr speaks on their behalf, “We have been lucky to have travelled abroad, come back with new ideas and positively influence the quality and philosophies of our companies.” This, coupled with an intelligent, tongue-in-cheek sense of humour, makes Germany a wine region to watch. × OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 33
COME BACK by Evan Saviolidis
Every couple of years, an opportunity arises to visit Austria and discover a new wine region; this year, it was Austria’s least known, Steiermark (aka, Styria). What made this trip even more compelling was that I was also invited to watch the finals of the Best Sommelier of Europe and Africa competition live in Vienna. As a professor of the profession, it was an über-cool opportunity and an honour of the highest order. But more about that later. Of Austria’s four wine-growing states (or, Weinbaugebiete), Styria is Austria’s southernmost and warmest. It lies at the confluence of the Pannonian climate, Central Europe’s warmest/driest influence, as well as the heat rising up from the Mediterranean ocean. Within Styria, there are three sub-regions: Vulkanland Steiermark, Südsteiermark, and Weststeiermark. Each one specializes in something different, even 34 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
though the dominant grape across all three is the singular Welschriesling. Of an unknown parentage, this grape has no relation to the noble Riesling grape, but its versatility is undeniable. It produces everything from neutral base wines — perfect for sparkling wine production — to easy-drinking whites to botrytis-affected lusciousness. It is also worth mentioning that Styria was the first region to bounce back from
the infamous 1985 diethylene glycol scandal. Prior to this time, the majority of wines produced in Austria were on the sweeter side. To further enhance this attribute, a few unscrupulous producers were illegally adulterating their bulk wines with the aforementioned substance, so as to emulate a late-harvest/richer style. However, this greed caused the entire industry to collapse like dominos. On the flip side, it forced the country to create the strictest wine laws in the world, focusing on small producers and primarily dry wines. As Styria had always produced dry styles, the region was the least affected by the scandal, and thus the phoenix rose first here. Finally, I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that Styria is also the birthplace of a famous Terminator/Governor of California and Donald Trump antagonist.
K
burgunder (Pinot Gris), Sauvignon Blanc, Gelber Muskateller (Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains) and all kinds of Traminer, with the latter being a calling card. All wines tend to show a spicy/minerally quality due to the geology. Prices are also reasonable as this part of Styria has yet to be discovered.
SÜDSTEIERMARK
VULKANLAND STEIERMARK
A recent name change (previously Süd-Oststeiermark) has seen producers push this sub-region’s 14-million-year-old volcanic deposits to the forefront of wine labels. Throughout history, it has also been the frontline of many border skirmishes with its European neighbours and invading armies, which is why the first things that the horizon presents are castles and fortified towns, sitting upon impressive basalt cliffs. Steep slopes are the norm here, and even though it is a large area geographically, the majority of 1,500 hectares of plantings are concentrated around three villages: Klöch, St. Anna am Aigen and Straden. Production is usually consumed in the local taverns or through winery doors. Myriad white grapes are grown here — more than in any other region — including Welschriesling, Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Morillon (Chardonnay), Grau-
The bucolic countryside gives rise to rolling hills with steep grades, which makes grape growing somewhat backbreaking. This is white wine land, with Austria’s finest Sauvignon Blanc (and Chardonnay) being the calling card. It is worth mentioning that Südsteiermark Sauvignon Blanc is now being referenced alongside the Loire and New Zealand as benchmarks. Not to rest on their laurels, and to continue to deliver high quality for their signature varietal, producers travel and work abroad to learn from their peers. Of course, the question on everyone’s lips is how did French grapes find a home here? The simple answer is love. During the first half of the 1800s, Archduke Johann of Austria became enamoured with and married a local lady, and in doing so became attached to the Styrian people. It is documented that he was a man of the people, helping to modernize the region and advance their cause. And when it came to the vine, he helped populate the land with varietals of personal predilection — which leaned towards French ones. The region, though, is no dual-trick pony, so there are plenty of other paleskinned varietals to be found. Pinot Blanc, which is produced in qualitative quantities, tends to be consumed within Austria, as the locals know a good thing. My personal epiphany, though, were the Rieslings from the Sausal area. Look across the rolling green hillsides with vineyards as far as the eye can see, and you could, in fact, be in Italy. This enclave of 400 hectacres is planted on steep slopes of slate (Riesling’s favorite soil), between 400 to 600 metres. These wines are truly impressive and reminiscent of top dry, mineral-tinged offerings from the Nahe and Mosel. The Pinot Gris wines from Sausal are also worth discovering as they show depth and complexity seldom found elsewhere.
WESTSTEIERMARK
Styria’s western region is also its smallest ( just 546 hectares) and is home to the rare and sauvage Blauer-Wildbacher. It is an ancient dark-skinned varietal, believed to have been cultivated since Celtic times. It’s first official documentation was in the 16th century, and its main requirements are heat, a long hangtime and aeration via leaf removal so as to mitigate the possibility of rot, which is its primary enemy. Although there are rare dry red and dessert renditions, Wildbacher’s main interpretation is Schilcher, a dry, crisp and fruity red-berry-scented rosé, which possesses a certain rusticity. These wines are easily identifiable via the Lipizzaner stallion on the bottle.
BACK TO VIENNA AND EUROPE’S TOP SOMM
As mentioned earlier, the crescendo of my trip was being invited to the Best Sommelier of Europe and Africa competition in Vienna. Before the event, a walk-about of the old town was a mandatory pre-requisite. People rave about Paris and Rome, but for me, the most enchanting European capital is Vienna. A leisurely stroll through its streets, surrounded by beautiful Baroque architecture, is inspiring. Obligatory stops included the Hotel Sacher for its namesake Torte served alongside Viennese Coffee as well as an Aperol Spritz and finger food at the legendary Zum Schwarzen Kameel. After a quick change into my James Bond outfit, our group departed for the competition. Traditionally, there are three finalists, but this year included a fourth participant, as the difference separating third and fourth place in the quarterfinals was marginal. Starting at 8 pm, contestants, working in a language other than their native tongue, were put to task. Challenges included serving a magnum of Champagne into 18 glasses, equally, in one pass; red wine decanting; multiple blind tastings; sake pairing; food and wine pairing; wine list correction; and global wine picture identification. At 1:30 am, the podium belonged to Raimonds Tomsons of Latvia, who will now move on to the World Championship, in Antwerp, Belgium, in 2019. Saluté! × OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 35
MORE THAN ONE by Michael Pinkus
Lately, when you hear about the region of Puglia (Apulia) in Italy, it’s usually in relation to Zinfandel, or as the Puglianese call it, Primitivo. You’ll sometimes get into a debate about where the grape is from and how it relates to Italy, Croatia, California or any other part of the world the grape has landed. But Puglia is not just about one grape (though it may seem that way); the region is as diversified as any other in Italy for what it grows, with many indigenous varieties making up the fabric of its wines.
Vinicola Rivera’s Carlo de Corato and his sons Sebastiano and Marco
36 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
TAGARO PASSO DEL SUD APPASSIMENTO 2016 ($20) Might seem a bit odd to see appassimento in the south, but everyone is doing it so why not. This is a blend of Primitivo, Negroamaro, Montepulciano and Nero di Troia with lots of plum, black cherry, mocha and smoke.
CLAUDIO QUARTA ANIMA DI PRIMITIVO 2015 ($15) Anima means “soul” and this wine has plenty of that plus plum, cherry, spice and a freshness in the mouth that’s very surprising considering the spicy finish.
VARVAGLIONE 1921 PAPALE 2014 ($25) 50- to 60-year-old vines aged 10 months in oak, this 100% Primitivo is just so enjoyable with its sweet plum, cocoa, cherry, vanilla and wood smoke; it’s the kind of wine you could enjoy all night long.
PRODUTTORI VINI MANDURIA ELEGIA RISERVA 2013 ($25)
As you can imagine, being in the South of Italy, there is a need for refreshing, summery wines like whites and rosés — and there are plenty to be had. I even discovered, to my surprise, that the sparkling revolution had made it to the south of Italy. Though, maybe the bigger surprise was the quality of these bubbles, which are made primarily in the Charmat method, with longer aging times on lees to give the wines some depth and character. But who’s kidding anyone? You rarely think of white, rosé or even sparkling in this part of the world, because nothing beats a great Southern Italian red with all its plum, raisin, chocolate, black cherry and other alluring aromas and flavours drawing you in to the glass and allowing you to linger, both nose and palate. You’ll soon realize that few of these grapes are household names — and might never ever be — but they are worth seeking out and experiencing for yourself: Nero di Troia, Aglianico, Negroamaro, Bombino Nero and, of course, Primitivo. But there’s also Aglianico del Vulture. In truth, it’s just Aglianico grown and produced in the Vulture area of Basilicata (recognized as a DOCG in 2011), but when compared to a regular Aglianico, you’ll see why it’s so coveted. In Puglia, the wines truly do speak for themselves; they are unique to this area. And while the grapes may travel up and down the country – and sometimes overseas — the wines made here truly do have that element of terroir that makes them gems to be prized.
Vanilla and black cherry rule the roost here followed by plum, cassis, smoke, graphite and chocolate … it’s a multi-layered wine that has plenty of punch now and for the future.
APOLLONIO NEGROAMARO TERRAGNOLO 2011 ($20) Old vines are in abundance in the south and it’s great to see what they can do with those 60- to 80-yearolds: cocoa dominated with spiced cherry, fig and plum with a long finish.
CARBONE VINI STUPOR MUNDI 2013 ($30) This wine leans heavily on new oak (50%) but the Aglianico can take it: black cherry, cocoa, mineral and spice. It may seem simple but this wine has a big mouthfeel that is balanced with great acidity.
ALOVINI ALVOLO 2013 ($25) Vines are only 30 to 38 years old in this Aglianico, but after 12 months in second-use French oak, the mineral character sits right up front followed by a mix of red and black fruit and a super-long finish.
OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 37
RIVERA PUNGIROSA 2016 ($15) Borgo Turrito’s Luca Scapola
While the white version of this grape makes some incredible bubbly, the red makes simple, fruit-driven red wines brimming with raspberry and lime-like acidity on the finish; on the mid-palate, it’s a strawberry–cherry mashup.
CANTINA IL PASSO ALBERI IN PIANO 2013 ($20) LIZZANO MANOROSSA 2016 ($25) While the name Negroamaro means “black bitter,” the wines made from this grape are usually anything but. Here, vanilla and chocolate co-mingle with rich plum for a silky-smooth wine loaded with flavour.
CANTINA SOCIALE DI BARLETTA PRIAMIS 2012 ($20) This Nero di Troia spends 12 months in oak then another 6 in bottle, allowing it to come together naturally. The first sip may seem almost too spicy and oaky but let the wine settle into the glass and experience the blackberry and spicy blueberry notes this wine has to offer.
BORGO TURRITO TROQUÉ 2013 ($20) Nero di Troia is not a well-known variety, but it is fun to say, and it’s about as much fun to drink. Smooth and silky with vanilla, plum and black cherry; on the finish, there’s plenty of spice and acidity to keep you coming back for more.
KANDEA BOLLA D’ORO 2014 ($20) The main grape here is Bombino and it makes an excellent base for bubbly. This 9-month Charmat method sparkler is bone dry and lively with lime and green apple notes. 38 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
A long-aged Aglianico (18 months) with 15 days’ skin contact and made using 35-year-old vines. Vanilla dominates with wood spices coming through before the dark fruit and pepper take over; minerality and acidity help clean up the finish, readying it for the next sip.
MASSERIA ALTEMURA SASSEO PRIMITIVO 2014 ($20) Those who don’t see the similarities between Primitivo and Zinfandel have to try this very Zin-like wine that doesn’t push the grape over the top: bright cherry, strawberry and a 70% cocoa-like note. Silky and lovely.
CASA GIRELLI VIRTUOSO PRIMITIVO 2013 ($20) After years of dealing with this grape, Virtuoso seems to fit: the wine has all the cherry and mocha found in Zinfandel, but there’s a mineral component that’s unusual, and welcome. This wine also shows restraint and delicacy with a smoky finish. Truly different from its U.S. counterpart.
SAN MARZANO VINDORO NEGROAMARO 2012 ($20) Some will hear sweet fruit and shy away, but don’t let that be the deciding factor; it’s also fresh, dark fruited and supremely concentrated. It’s a wine that leaves it all on the field and you’ll love its smooth and silky texture. ×
by Joanne Will
THE POETRY OF PARIS It’s hard to separate literature from food when you’re thinking of Paris. The City of Light is renowned for inspiration of the culinary and literary variety, and they’re often intertwined. As Hemingway wrote, “If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.” Taking Hemingway’s cue, I spent three days creating my own tour through Parisian literary and culinary history.
OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 39
IT BEGINS BY SITTING IN THE VERY SPOT WHERE OSCAR WILDE EXPIRED, DRINKING A GLASS OF GASCOGNE, WHICH I’M ALMOST CERTAIN IS THE BEST GLASS OF WINE I’VE EVER HAD. There’s something special about being in the
space once inhabited by a great writer. The sofa is in Wilde’s former ground-floor hotel room, now known as Le Bar, in L’Hotel, on Rue des Beaux-Arts in Paris’s trendy Saint-Germain-desPrés neighbourhood. It’s purported that moments before his last breath Wilde uttered, “My wallpaper and I are fighting a duel to the death. One or the other of us has to go.” Later, during a visit to Wilde’s grave in the 20th arrondissement on the Right Bank of the Seine River at Père Lachaise Cemetery, we find gastronomic essayist Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, the father of culinary writing, resting nearby. A prior visitor had left a small whisk beneath Brillat-Savarin’s headstone. A passerby helped me locate the grave. As he walked away, the stranger smirked and asked if I was a glutton. Was Savarin a glutton? I’ll leave that to the reader. But, his The Physiology of Taste is undoubtedly the most famous book about food. And it was Brillat-Savarin who left us with such memorable food quotes as: “The discovery of a new dish confers more happiness on humanity than the discovery of a new star.” To that, he added many other culinary gems, including “Tell me what you eat and I will tell you what you are”; “To receive guests is to take charge of their happiness during the entire time they are under your roof” and “The pleasure of the table belongs to all ages, to all conditions, to all countries, and to all areas; it mingles with all other pleasures, and remains at last to console us for their departure.” 40 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
A few rows over in Père Lachaise is the final resting place of Marcel Proust, whose book In Search of Lost Time introduces readers to the quintessential Proustian moment, after the narrator tastes a madeleine dipped in tea and embarks on a journey of memory. Back in Saint-Germain-des-Prés for Sunday lunch at a Paris classic, Le Relais de l’Entrecôte, the only menu choice is steak frites and a starter salad dressed with Dijon vinaigrette and walnuts. The waitresses are all in tasteful French maid “uniforms” (there’s not a man working in the joint, at least not in the front of house). What tops the steak, and also helps to make the meal unique, is a “secret” sauce. In 2007, however, French newspaper Le Monde, reported that the sauce is made from fresh thyme, chicken livers, full cream, white Dijon, butter, salt and pepper. The desired doneness preferred by each customer is written next to their place on the paper covering the table “cloth,” and second helpings are offered on silver platters — even the frites. Don’t bother asking for ketchup — only mustard is served here, in a petit pot with a matching spoon. In fact, this is the case in most eateries in the city. In his day, Ernest Hemingway had a raft of favourite culinary spots — from the now-heavily-touristed Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots (perhaps the most well known) to the newly renovated (and insanely overpriced) Bar Hemingway at The Ritz. But the most preserved of Hemingway’s haunts may be the mis-advertised Brasserie Lipp (featured in his A Moveable Feast memoir), which has been a Paris institution for more than 135 years. Don’t let the cheap neon sign featuring a beer stein mislead you: Brasserie Lipp could easily be mistaken for a tacky tourist pub. But after passing through the revolving wood door, you will return to a de-
cor unchanged since the 1930s, with an array of ceramic tiles and Art Deco design. And, unlike many other Paris establishments, you’d best dust off your French as there are no English menus. Boulangerie Poilâne is just down the street, where the famous round loaves have been made since 1932, when Pierre Poilâne started a bakery with the intent of making just one thing, and making it very well: bread made using stone-ground flour, a natural fermentation process and baked in a wood-fired oven. The bakery has expanded to make cookies, pastries and other types of bread, including rye and spelt. In 1970, Pierre’s son Lionel took over the business and, since 2002, when he and his wife were tragically killed in a helicopter accident, his daughters run it. Lionel’s brother, Max Poilâne, also has a chain of Parisian bakeries and if you’re in the mood you can try both and decide for yourself which is the best.
A PERFECT BASE TO EXPLORE ALL THAT SAINT-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS HAS TO OFFER IS HÔTEL LE SAINT — a newly reimagined combina-
tion of three old buildings, one of which was once the Hotel Lenox, where James Joyce first arrived in Paris with his two children and partner (and later wife), Nora Barnacle. Paris was, after all, where he finished writing Ulysses, the novel that takes place entirely on one day, June 16, 1904 — the date of his first, real-life outing with Barnacle. Le Saint is all about attention to detail, beginning with the extra-hot basement hammam, or steam room. Above ground, there are delicious handmade caramels in every room, fresh flowers throughout and a cozy fireplace off the main lobby. Afternoon tea, with macarons and all manner of pastries, is served daily. If your heart desires, management will even hire a classic car to take you to the metro station, train station or l’aéroport. To top off the experience, owner and manager Bertrand Plasmans seems to always be on hand, watering plants, fluffing lobby pillows and answering questions. A fount of knowledge and excitement about the area, Plasmans recounts that this street, which is now home to independent fashion and shoe stores, was historically filled with book binders and porcelain repair shops. He shows me one of the upper-floor suites in Le Saint that has a wonderful view of the Eiffel Tower. Was this Joyce’s room? He doesn’t know. In fact, no one seems to know where the Joyces stayed. As a result, my hope of visiting the actual space inhabited by this great writer was stymied. Le Saint also offers a complimentary bicycle service for guests to explore the area, and there’s much to see nearby. This is the area where American food writer and TV host Julia Child shopped and dined in the 1940s and ’50s, and many of the same establishments still remain. Down the road on adjacent Rue de l’Université, a ten-minute walk or quick cycle from Le Saint, is where Child and her husband lived. The simple blue door of their apartment building has become a mecca for fans of the book and film, Julia and Me.
A few blocks in the opposite direction is Shakespeare and Company, famous for hosting writers like Joyce, Hemingway, Gertrude Stein and Ezra Pound in the 1920s. Founder Sylvia Beach was the first to publish Ulysses in 1922. Today, in its modern incarnation, the bookstore also has a connected cafe serving some of the best coffee to be found in Paris, along with housemade granola and treats whose names are literary puns, such as “The Bun Also Rises.” It’s in view of Notre-Dame, and next to Saint-Julian-le-Pauvre, one of Paris’ oldest churches. If Hôtel Le Saint is beyond your budget (though it’s indisputably excellent value, considering the location, amenities and service), you can’t do better than the Hôtel Eiffel Blomet, which, at least for the time being, may be Paris’s best kept secret. A newly renovated hotel in the 15th arrondissement, it’s now a paean to the Art Deco age with 78 rooms, eight suites and a spacious basement pool, gym and hammam. The coveted rooms are those on the rooftop — five in total, with views across the city, and most importantly, wicker chairs and tables where you can have your own private breakfast, lunch or dinner party.
WAS JEAN ANTHELME BRILLAT-SAVARIN, THE FATHER OF CULINARY WRITING, A GLUTTON? I’LL LEAVE THAT TO THE READER. Wander along Rue Blomet and you’ll find the famed Bal Blomet jazz club. You can also find plentiful cheese, pastries, roast chickens and Norman and Breton cider for your own moveable feast, to be gathered and eaten back on your rooftop terrace. This is not a tourist spot but a true Paris neighbourhood, where you’ll get a taste of being a local, with a choice of excellent French bistros to boot. Le Wallace, with a patio in full view of the pleasant Général Beuret Square, is a people-watching hotspot for the comings-and-goings of the neighbourhood. The restaurant is named for Wallace fountains, one of which is the centrepiece of the aforementioned square. During a water supply crisis in the French capital following the 1870 siege, British philanthropist Richard Wallace gifted Parisians 50 fountains with drinkable water – hence the English-sounding name. If you’re looking to drink something other than water, the sommelier at Le Wallace is particularly fond of wines from the Languedoc region. From this neighbourhood, you can always walk the 20 or 30 minutes to the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighbourhood, and en route past Gertrude Stein’s former apartment at 27 Rue de Fleurus, where Pablo Picasso visited, and Hemingway returned many times for friendship and mentoring. Or, you can turn in the opposite direction and walk the same distance to the Eiffel Tower. There ends my tour, but it’s clear that there’s so much more to see and experience, so I leave you with Hemingway’s invitation to create your own moveable feast. × OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 41
BETTER LOVE DOGS by Craig Pinhey
Microbrewery taprooms are revolutionizing New Brunswick’s drinking culture If you walk into the taproom at Rothesay, New Brunswick’s Foghorn brewery on a Saturday afternoon, you’ll probably find around 15 or 20 locals sitting around sipping pints of beer or cider, with perhaps two or three dogs lounging around, occasionally begging for some of the Covered Bridge potato chips people are snacking on. There’s music playing, but there are no VLTs or TVs. There’s also no kitchen, no servers carrying trays of food and drinks, nor stage for live music. It’s just a gathering spot for folks to chat and pet each other’s dogs. And the brewery is right there: there’s no barrier between drinkers and the work going on, as brewer Andrew “Esty” Estabrooks lugs around grain bags. It can get hot, steamy and “beer smelly” but people don’t seem to mind. In fact, they seem to enjoy being part of the ac42 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
tion, albeit only as interested observers. After a pint or two, many will buy a growler of beer and head home for supper. This is the new “local pub” and, more and more, it’s becoming the norm. Whether you are in the taproom of Railcar in tiny Perth (recently relocated from Florenceville-Bristol); Big Axe, overlooking the Saint John River, in Nackawic (yep, the place that’s home to that really big axe sculpture); Picaroons’ General Store in Uptown Saint John or their main brewery in the roundhouse across the river from downtown Fredericton; TrailWay, just a short walk from Picaroons’ Round House; Graystone in downtown Fredericton; or Grimross up on the hill, you will be drinking beer with a crowd of mostly locals — with the odd beer tourist thrown in for good measure.
And such taprooms are not just in New Brunswick, but are becoming common throughout the Maritimes. What’s the difference between a brewery with a taproom and a brewpub? Fair question. One key difference is they don’t serve hot food or provide table service, but you can come in to most taprooms with a pizza slice, a burger and fries, or — the traditional Maritime beer-drinking food — a donair, that you bought at less inflated prices than a typical pub, or even something you made yourself at home. They are more like brewpubs with benefits. Unless you don’t like dogs. A brewery taproom is different from a pub with dozens of taps of local and outof-province beers — that’s the typical beer geek hangout. Instead, taprooms, some of which are in quite rural locations, are
for everyone, and, because of that, they are probably introducing more “average drinkers” to flavourful beer than any hipster-laden, speciality-beer pub. Many of the patrons are walk-ins — truly local — or folks popping in on the way home from work. If you look around the room in Foghorn, you’ll see a range of ages and careers represented. It’s definitely not the “beards, indie music and tattoos” clique you find at craft beer meccas. Rather, it’s a bit of an older crowd, more “barbers, independent business folk and tradespeople,” although, of course, there’s overlap. One of the most exciting things about the explosive growth in small breweries in New Brunswick, and the Maritimes in general, is that even small towns are getting a brewery. Or perhaps two or three — like Rothesay, a community of slightly more than 12,000 people just outside Saint John, where Hammond River and Long Bay have joined Foghorn. The fact that these new businesses are opening, creating jobs and generally making good, fresh beer that is readily available — particularly in smaller markets — has made beer a very important sector of the rural tourism market in Atlantic Canada. New Brunswick is a unique part of Canada. Unlike provinces west of us, which are very sparsely populated in their northern regions, people are more evenly spread out over this bilingual square that’s roughly 450 kilometres by 450 kilometres. The ability to sell beer to Alcool NB Liquor (ANBL), out of their own stores, direct to pubs and in their own taprooms means that small breweries can thrive from north to south and east to west in this deceptively large province. It’s to the point where it feels like every small town will soon have its own brewery, or perhaps three. And why not? What community would want to be left out of that deal? At last count, according to the Atlan-
tic Canada Beer Blog (www.acbeerblog.ca), there were 41 breweries, brewpubs and cideries open (or soon to open) in New Brunswick — and that number just keeps growing. One potentially negative aspect to a brewery having its own taproom is the perceived competition with pubs that are also key customers. There were certainly some rumblings from local pubs when Picaroons opened its small brewery and taproom in the heart of Uptown Saint John, where it quickly became a popular
to our mutual customer. For pubs not serving local craft beer, they may feel a pinch and a disconnect with their customer.” It would also be naïve to underestimate the dog factor. Many people with dogs have made “going to the pub” a regular part of their dog-walking duties, which all dog owners know is a regular occurrence. In fact, one wonders if these folks would go out for a beer at all if it wasn’t for these places. Some pubs have made their patios dog friendly, including the Saint
ANDREW ESTABROOKS, THE BREWER AT FOGHORN
hangout. Part of this popularity is that people can bring their dogs, but there’s also a feeling of lack of pressure when you go to a taproom. You aren’t taking a seat from someone waiting to order a meal. “I don’t think we compete with the pubs,” says Stephen Dixon, owner and brewer at Grimross and current president of New Brunswick Craft Alcohol Producers. “As a matter of fact, I think we create more interest in local beer, and beer in general, that helps the local pubs sell more and better beer. When our customers go out for dining and food, they have a deeper sense of craft beer and local beer. People feel a better connection with local. And if the pub is serving local craft beer, it is a bonus
John Ale House and the Stillwell Beer Garden in Halifax, Nova Scotia, which, like most brewery taprooms, provide a water bowl and are tolerant of the occasional bark and dog squabble. There is a necessary assumption that only owners of dogs that behave well would even consider bringing them to a taproom. One suspects there have been a few occasions where things have escalated a bit, but the typical person who frequents a local brewery taproom doesn’t fit the dog-fighting stereotype. That said, if you want to pop into Foghorn for a brew, don’t be surprised if Lucy the Lab sticks her nose in your unmentionables while you are in the beer lineup. × OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 43
FOOD CITY by Lisa Hoekstra
SA
CHEFS KYLE MICHAEL AND CHRISTIE PETERS FROM THE HOLLOWS
Farming, flat, potash and prosperity — according to a survey completed in 2015 by Insightrix Research Inc, these are just a few of the terms that come to mind when Canadians think about Saskatchewan. There were other less positive terms, like “boring” — gasp — but if Saskatoon is any indication, this flat, farming province is anything but boring. Saskatoon is the next stop in our Food City series. This small-town, big-city stop on the Trans-Canada Highway is the largest city in Saskatchewan. It boasts a rich culinary scene that is growing in leaps and bounds as locals take a look at what their farming neighbours are producing and realize that these local ingredients make for great fare. Next time you find yourself in this prairie town, take a tour of these must-visit locales that are helping to put Saskatoon on Canada’s culinary map.
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ASKATOON MUST VISIT BAKERIES & CAFÉS THE NIGHT OVEN BAKERY www.thenightoven.ca 629-b 1st Avenue North
Owner Bryn Rawlyk serves handmade artisan bread pulled out of his hand-built brick oven each morning. His approach is simple — start with organic, local ingredients and create breads and pastries that highlight the flavours of Saskatoon. “The main focus of what we do is to utilize local ingredients to create breads, pastries and foods for our customers,” says Rawlyk. “Our style is rustic French with some eastern European specialties at times. Customers have grown to know our standard for quality and appreciate our creative seasonal items.” His creative menu includes different cultural breads during the holidays; Red Fife sourdough bread, which has just the right amount of chewiness, moistness and sourness to please any bread critic; whole-wheat brioche hamburger buns; and a wide (and changing) selection of French pastries difficult to find anywhere else in Saskatoon, including flaky, crisp croissants and savoury or sweet tarts (try the lemon, if you can get there in time — all of their pastries sell out quickly). You can place an order to take home and share with your family, or sit in the café, sip an exquisite coffee made with organic milk and enjoy with a good book (or a close friend).
If you’re visiting Saskatoon over the weekend, stop in for their Friday Pizza Night. Rawlyk and his team make every style of pizza — meat, veggie, cheese — and they change up the selection each week. Their fresh, local ingredients are framed by a soft, crunchy crust that has a slight sourdough flavour, all baked fresh that night in the brick oven. The Night Oven also mills its own flour right there in the store. “Using local, organic grain is a big part of what we do,” says Rawlyk. “In starting the bakery, I really wanted to connect customers with the grain that is grown all around our town. I think starting with quality ingredients is very important to creating a great product.” You can bring home their stone-ground flour, Two Stones Mills, to try to recreate some organic pastries of your own, though you can’t beat the experience — and the mouth-watering smells — of visiting The Night Oven Bakery. You’ll never want to buy store-bought bread again.
CITIZEN CAFÉ AND BAKERY
www.citizencafeandbakery.ca 18 - 23rd Street East House-made treats, excellent coffee and lounge-worthy couches for an afternoon pick-me-up, this little coffee shop and bakery is a great place to rest your feet as your tour Saskatoon.
THE KARMA CONSCIOUS CAFÉ & EATERY
www.thekarmacafe.ca 2-157 - 2nd Avenue North A flavourful fusion of vegan and vegetarian food accompanied by espresso made from hand-picked fair trade coffee. Three percent of all revenues go towards helping charities in the community.
LAST MILE COFFEE TRUCK
www.lastmilecoffeetruck.com Saskatoon Farmers’ Market If you’re spending the day at the Farmers’ Market, stop by this truck for some independent roadster coffee. OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 45
DINNER & DRINKS
AYDEN KITCHEN & BAR www.aydenkitchenandbar.com 265 - 3rd Avenue
THE HOLLOWS www.thehollows.ca 334 Avenue C South
Chef Christie Peters was a 2016 Mav Chef and she’s still working hard to craft seasonal dishes in the heart of Saskatoon. “After cooking in larger cities, Saskatoon feels like the Wild West,” says Peters. “Being my own boss allows me to focus on any areas I feel passionate about at the time. At this time, I am able to practise charcuterie in conjunction with whole-animal butchery.” Peters and her husband, Kyle Michael, own The Hollows and Primal Pasta (see below). Both restaurants work around Saskatoon’s climate to ensure all dishes are made with local ingredients, all year round. “The challenges of the harsh climate and short growing season here keep us on our toes,” explains Peters. “We are always finding new ways to preserve items from our gardens so that they carry us through the long, cold winters.” Gardening is a major passion for Peters. She planted her gardens in order to grow her own ingredients. “The gardens guide the menus at both restaurants,” she says. “Every year we are learning new things. Right now [in July], we are harvesting rose petals, raspberry leaf, rhubarb, wood sorrel, lamb’s quarters and dandelions. And next week, it could be entirely different!” Her menu at The Hollows is as eclectic and creative as you could want. Dishes crafted with local ingredients, focusing on texture and unique flavour combinations, mean you’ll get to enjoy buttery-salty roasted bone marrow; or dandelion tempura with spicy mayo, one of the daily specials, seasoned just right and not too spicy. Main dishes — served in reasonable portions rather than piled on the plate — include creations like pork sausage with kimchi and olive oil potatoes, where the pork sausage has the perfect ratio of meat to fat and the kimchi gives it all a nice kick. Finish your meal with the dessert flight, a sampling of all of their desserts in just-the-right-size portions so you can have a taste of everything. “Our motto is high quality, seasonal and sustainable,” says Peters. “It happens to be that the most high-quality and fresh products available are usually locally grown, or foraged, or locally pastured animals. This philosophy guides our menus in such a way that the slightest micro-changes in the season are reflected.”
PRIMAL PASTA
www.primalpasta.ca 423 - 20th Street West Here, you’ll find a menu replete with fresh, homemade pastas and sauces crafted with local ingredients (including those from Chef Peters’ garden). A nice Saskatoon-twist on traditional Italian cuisine. 46 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
If you’re looking for high-end pub food, heavy on the meats, Ayden Kitchen & Bar is the place to be. The relaxed, inviting atmosphere, replete with rich dark woods and antiques, is the perfect setting for an evening of dining, after-work cocktails or a night cap. The menu includes special selections that showcase all that Saskatoon has to offer, made with local vegetables, seasonings and meats. “We work with a lot of local farmers and producers. We’ve built great relationships with them and there’s that sense of satisfaction knowing that we can take their locally crafted products and create something extraordinary for our guests to enjoy,” says general manager and mixologist Christopher Cho. “We learn so much when working with local suppliers, about how their product has been handled and the amount of love and care they put into it. We want to give the products justice by giving the same love the suppliers have and that is why I think it changes the taste of our menu.” Their drinks list is a big draw as well and includes signature cocktails created by Cho. These are created to pair with the menu, though Ayden also has all the classics and the bartenders can recreate whatever cocktail you crave. “The moment you walk through our doors to the moment you walk out, we want our guests to feel as if we took them on a journey,” says Cho. “We strive to exceed our guests’ expectations when it comes to the food, the service, the drinks and the ambiance.” Judging from the reviews and the number of awards they’ve received, they have succeeded in achieving that goal. “Ayden Kitchen & Bar was the first restaurant in Saskatchewan to be acclaimed in the Top 10 Best Restaurants through Vacay.ca, Top 10 Best New Restaurants in Canada through enRoute Magazine, and Top 100 Best Restaurants in Canada through Macleans. We couldn’t have achieved that without the support of this city,” explains Cho. “Throughout my travels, I find Saskatoon to be one of the friendliest cities across Canada. There’s a huge support culture in Saskatoon. People who are from here or live here have a big amount of pride to be in Saskatoon.”
PRAIRIE HARVEST CAFÉ
2917 Early Drive Prairie Harvest isn’t actually a café — it’s a small, quirky lunchbrunch-supper spot found in the middle of a charming neighbourhood. Owner/chef Michael McKeown, and his co-chefs Bret Eldstrom and Adam Carrier, serve up interesting seasonal dishes, all surrounding their three staples: lasagna, pierogis and doughnuts. “We change the menu weekly [or] bi-weekly, depending on what ingredients are available,” says McKeown. “Maple bacon doughnuts, PH lasagna and pierogis have been there in one form or another since Day One; the rest of the menu kind of fits around that.”
AYDEN’S CO-CHEF & BUTCHER NATHAN GUGGENHEIMER, CHEF DALE MACKAY AND GM & MIXOLOGIST CHRISTOPHER CHO
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MORE T LAST SHOES
www.lastshoes.ca 318 Avenue C South
APRON BY LAST SHOES
Local, seasonal ingredients are the cornerstone of Prairie Harvest’s menu. McKeown and his team transform these ingredients into handmade dishes. “We don’t bring anything in store-bought at all. Everything that goes on the plate, we make,” explains McKeown. “We make all our own doughs, all our own breads, all our own pastas.” They also make sauces, mayo, ketchup, mustard — literally everything. This means that the dining experience is truly home-style and one-of-a-kind. Take the maple bacon doughnut, for example. The strong, smoky bacon flavour combines so well with the hints of maple — an interesting fusion of savoury and sweet. Their breads are dense and hearty. Sausages perfectly juicy. The actual bacon crispy and thick. The combination of local ingredients with the out-of-the-box approach to flavour makes it worth hunting down this small, out-of-the-way space. To help prolong the availability of seasonal ingredients, Prairie Harvest preserves its sauces, pickles ingredients and does its best to store enough to get the restaurant through the winter. “Right now, we’re pickling asparagus,” mentions McKeown. “With tomatoes, we roast them off, make sauce and freeze that and use it as long into the winter as we can. But we’re a little, tiny place, so it can last as long as it can last.” If they do run out, all they have to do is change the menu up a little bit — tweak it so that if they run out of something, you won’t even notice. Even if it is in the dead of winter.
SASKATOON STATION PLACE
www.saskatoonstationplace.com 221 Idylwyld Drive North When Saskatoon Station Place opened, it was the first Greek-Canadian fusion restaurant in the city. A visit here is like a journey to the past, when trains featured classic food cars, bar cars and even smoking cars. This is the full fine-dining experience at its best. 48 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
Cordwainer (aka, shoemaker) Adam Finn opened up Last Shoes to provide Saskatoon with custom shoes. “Last Shoes is all about craftsmanship and self-expression,” explains Finn. “When a customer buys a pair of handmade shoes, it’s an investment in their aesthetic sensibilities as well as a unique story and experience.” Finn opened up Last Shoes because he’s “always had an interest in craft, creating objects that people interact with and build a relationship with.” Given how important shoes are not only to the comfort of our feet but also our posture, back and overall balance, having a good pair of shoes is key — especially if you’re a chef, like Christie Peters, who pointed me to Last Shoes, the creators of her kitchen clogs and apron with sturdy leather accents. Finn has had a lot of success marketing his custom shoes and other leather products — and he hasn’t looked back. “I love working in a city that is growing and changing. There’s a mentality of collaboration rather than competition,” he explains. “The response has been great.”
THE CURE ARTISANAL CHARCUTERIE
110-209 Avenue D South Artisanal meats are the only thing sold at this carnivore’s grocer. Treat yourself to an epic meat and cheese platter for your next gathering or for a snack while you relax at your hotel before dinner.
MANA BAR
TO SEE
SASKATOON FARMERS’ MARKET
www.manabaryxe.com 523 - 20th Street West New to the Saskatoon bar scene, this is a prime spot for gamers, nerds and trivia lovers who refuse to give up on those pastimes they enjoyed as kids. Every day is a new theme — Magic Mondays, Tabletop Tuesdays, Waffle Wednesdays and Trivia Thursdays, plus they host events throughout the year.
www.saskatoonfarmersmarket.com 414 Avenue B South Every vendor at the market sells only what they produce, so this is the place to be if you want a true representation of all that Saskatoon has to offer.
Microbreweries & Distilleries
HAZLEWOOD CLOTHING CO.
9 MILE LEGACY BREWING COMPANY
www.hazlewoodcompany.com 120 - 20th Street West Antiquing in style. A curated vintage shop with clothing, home furnishings and handmade apothecary.
Drinks & Nightlife THE ROOK & RAVEN PUB
www.therookandravenpub.com 154 - 2nd Avenue South When The Rook opened in 2011, it started the locally owned and operated pub revolution of downtown Saskatoon. A comfortable, casual spot to unplug from the outside world and enjoy a pint.
MELODY LOUNGE BAR
www.melodybar.ca 255 - 3rd Avenue South This brilliant, off-the-beaten-path bar has live music, great cocktails and a selection of nibbles to keep you satisfied all night long.
BARTARI VIDEOGAME RESTAURANT & BAR
www.bartari.net 511 - 20th Street West Retro games and adult beverages with some food thrown into the mix. Not sure about you, but to me, that’s a recipe for a great evening.
www.9milelegacy.com 229 - 20th Street West This brewery represents the close-knit community of Saskatoon like no other: the two families that own 9 Mile Legacy (the Moens and the Pedersons) have lived roughly nine miles apart for over a century. Their collaboration creates a selection of smooth beers, each with its own unique flavour.
LUCKY BASTARD DISTILLERS
www.luckybastard.ca 814 - 47th Street East The cold winters and short, hot summers in Saskatoon make for some of the finest growing conditions in the country, which is probably why the whole province is synonymous with wheat fields. These quality grains are transformed into some of the best micro-distilled liquor in Canada via owner Michael Goldney’s hand-hammered copper pot still named Ginger.
PRAIRIE SUN BREWERY
www.prairiesun.ca 2020 Quebec Avenue The vision of Prairie Sun Brewery was the result of a road trip to the beer-capital of the US: Denver, Colorado. Cameron Ewen, a Humboldt, Saskatchewan native, and Heather Williams, originally from Boulder, Colorado, transform Saskatoon’s local grains into beers that wow the palate. Try their Toffee 5 or their 306 Urban Wheat Beer.
PADDOCK WOOD BREWING CO.
www.paddockwood.com 116 - 103rd Street East Buy some beer, pick up a kit to make your own or reserve a keg, Paddock Wood is a must-visit. The friendly staff will help you find the perfect ale to quench whatever thirst hits you.
BLACK FOX FARM & DISTILLERY
www.blackfoxfarmanddistillery.com 245 Valley Road Black Fox makes gins for non-gin drinkers. Their assortment of juniper-based spirits (four recipes in total) are a good way to introduce your palate to gin. They also have some delicious fruit liqueurs made from apples, haskap berries, raspberries, blackcurrants and sour cherries — all grown on their farm.
Festivals SASKTEL SASKATCHEWAN JAZZ FESTIVAL
www.saskjazz.com June 2018 For 10 days every summer, Saskatoon is home to the biggest names in jazz, with over 85,000 music fans grooving to jazz, blues, funk, pup and world music.
A TASTE OF SASKATCHEWAN
www.tasteofsaskatchewan.ca July 2018 Foodies rejoice! This five-day event features more than 30 of Saskatoon’s finest restaurants, plus a selection of local music, all celebrating the flavour of the prairies.
NESS CREEK MUSIC FESTIVAL
www.nesscreekmusicfestival.com July 2018 For more than 26 years, music fans have made their way to Prince Albert National Park for the “Woodstock of Saskatchewan.” With big-name musicians, intimate local bands, tents and drums, this festival is a must for any music fan.
NUIT BLANCHE SASKATOON
www.nuitblanchesaskatoon.ca September 2018 Free, all-ages night-time arts festival showcasing art and culture in Saskatchewan. × OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 49
BOUQUET GARNI BY NANCY JOHNSON
WHAT’S IN A NAME? Where have I been? What did I miss? When in the world did raised doughnuts become “glazed yeast rings?” Yes, this unsavoury moniker is slapped atop boxes of fresh doughnuts TURKEY ORZO SOUP at my local grocery store. A frantic search onSERVES 4 TO 6 line did nothing to assuage my horror. Calling a Here’s a delicious way to use up some of that leftover Thanksgivdoughnut a glazed yeast ring is a trend, a thing ing turkey. Soups are never an exact science. Use whatever ingre— not just a fad, my friends. It is, in fact, here to dients you fancy. For the record, I use salt-free or low-salt turkey broth. And I sometimes substitute light red kidney beans for the stay, much like the millennials’ annoying newly cannellini beans. Add sautéed onion, celery, shredded carrots and created word “adulting.” (“Woohoo, I paid my garlic if you’d like. bills! I’m adulting!”) I’m not altogether certain a glazed yeast ring sounds better-tasting or better for me than a plain old doughnut. However, the sneaky attempt to make a food sound healthier by giving it a cryptic euphemism isn’t all that new. For the past few decades, some food manufacturers have been disguising sugar as “evaporated cane juice,” leading to a few fairly ambitious consumer lawsuits. Let’s face it, not everything is exactly what we think it is. Dried plums are prunes. Chilean sea bass is Patagonian toothfish. Canola oil is rapeseed oil. Calamari is squid. Benedict Cumberbatch is not really Sherlock Holmes. And adulting means you’ve grown up and become a responsible human being, at least occasionally. Meanwhile, here are a few recipes to try when you feel like adulting … um … I mean cooking. By the way, I do not know how to make glazed yeast rings, so you’re on your own for that recipe. Sorry. 50 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
8 2-3 1 1 1/2 2 1/2
cups turkey broth cups cooked turkey, diced can tomatoes, diced can cannellini beans, drained and rinsed tsp Italian seasoning cups spinach or baby kale Salt and pepper, to taste cup orzo Garlic croutons, for garnish Salt and pepper, to taste.
1. In a large pot, bring turkey broth, turkey, tomatoes, beans and seasoning to a boil. Reduce heat. Simmer, uncovered, until heated through. Add spinach or kale and cook 2 more minutes. 2. Meanwhile, in a separate pan, cook and drain orzo according to package directions. Add hot orzo to soup. Salt and pepper to taste. Garnish each serving with a few croutons. MATCH: Serve a Chardonnay with the soup.
× Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on quench.me/recipes/
SOUR CREAM DIJON COD FILLETS
SERVES 4 Every so often, I crave something I’ve never actually tasted or perhaps tasted so long ago I can’t remember when I had it. Recently, I woke up one morning craving fish with a mustard sour cream sauce. Perhaps I had it in a dream. Who knows — but here’s the result.
4 1/2 1 1 2
cod or other whitefish fillets Salt and pepper, to taste cup sour cream tbsp heavy whipping cream tbsp Dijon mustard tsp chives or scallions, minced
1. Preheat broiler. 2. Pat fish dry with paper towels. Salt and pepper to taste. 3. Coat a broiler pan with cooking spray. Place fish on broiler
pan. Broil 4 inches from heat until fish flakes easily with a fork, about 5 minutes per half-inch of thickness. (When broiling, stay in the kitchen and watch carefully. Food can segue from done to burnt in a flash.) 4. In a small saucepan, stir together sour cream, cream, mustard and chives or scallions. Heat through over low heat. Do not boil. Spoon sauce on 4 plates. Top with fish. MATCH: Uncork a Sauvignon Blanc.
ASIAN FLANK STEAK WITH PEPPERS
SERVES 4 Fast, fresh, fabulous — I’ve been making this quick dinner since before the millennials were “babies babying” let alone “adults adulting.” A tip — I sometimes add cubed fresh pineapple or drained canned pineapple tidbits. Sirloin steak can also sub for the flank steak. For easy slicing, put the beef in the freezer for about 30 minutes before preparing.
1 1/2 1/4 2 1 1 4 1 1 1 1-2 2 1 1/4
flank steak, about 1 1/2 lbs cup plus 2 tbsp soy sauce cup plus 1 tbsp white wine tsp cornstarch tbsp rice vinegar tbsp sugar tbsp canola oil green bell pepper, sliced red bell pepper, sliced cup mushrooms, chopped cups snow peas cloves garlic, minced tbsp fresh ginger root, minced tsp cayenne pepper, optional Hot, cooked jasmine rice
1. Slice flank steak across the grain in thin slices. In medium bowl, combine 2 tbsp soy sauce, 1 tbsp white wine and the cornstarch. Add beef slices, mixing to coat well. Set aside.
2. Make sauce: In a small bowl, combine remaining soy sauce, wine, vinegar and sugar. Set aside. 3. In a wok or skillet, heat 1 tbsp oil over medium-high heat. Add peppers, mushrooms and snow peas. Stir-fry 2 minutes. Cover and cook 2 minutes more or until mushrooms are tender. Remove and set aside. Add 1 tbsp oil to work. Add garlic, ginger and cayenne pepper, if using. 4. Cook and stir 1 minute. Remove and set aside. Add remaining oil. Add beef. Stir-fry until browned and cooked through. Remove and set aside. Drain off excess oil. 5. Return beef to skillet or wok. Add sauce and veggies. Heat through. If too thick, add more soy sauce. Serve over jasmine rice. MATCH: An Australian Shiraz goes well with this dish.
STUFFED ACORN SQUASH
SERVES 4 For something different on a cold October night, try this mealin-a-squash. I’ve stuffed acorn squash many different ways, with a variety of bread stuffings or even rice pilaf. Be adventurous and come up with your own special dish. Or if you’d just like a squash side dish for Thanksgiving, follow the roasting instructions in this recipe. In the last 10 minutes, turn the squash right-side up; place butter, cinnamon and maple syrup in the hollow of each squash half. Roast 10 minutes longer.
2 acorn squash, cut lengthwise in half and seeded Olive oil, divided Salt and pepper 250 g mild or hot Italian sausage, casings removed and sausage meat crumbled 1 clove garlic, minced 1 small onion, minced 1 cup mushrooms, finely chopped 1 sweet red pepper, minced 1/4 cup chicken broth 2 slices Italian bread, cut into cubes 1/2 cup shredded mozzarella 1. Preheat oven to 375˚F. 2. Cover a baking sheet with parchment paper. Brush each
squash half with olive oil. Salt and pepper to taste. Roast, cutside down, uncovered, 30 minutes. 3. Turn squash cut-side up and roast 10 minutes longer, or until tender. 4. Meanwhile, in large skillet, heat 1 tbsp olive oil. Add sausage, garlic, onion, mushrooms and red pepper. Cook, stirring often, 10 minutes or until sausage is cooked through. 5. Add chicken broth and bread. Cook 2 minutes. Scoop sausage stuffing into each squash half. 6. Sprinkle with mozzarella. Return to oven and bake 10 minutes or until cheese melts. MATCH: Try a California Pinot Noir or a light Gamay from France or Canada. × OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 51
NOTED 92 TENUTA SANT’ANTONIO AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CAMPO DEI GIGLI 2012, VENETO, ITALY ($85)
89 MALIVOIRE LADYBUG ROSÉ 2016, NIAGARA ($16.95)
There is no denying that this wine is consistently one of Ontario’s top rosés. Mid-weight, there is a salmon colour and a personality of strawberry, rhubarb, cherry, peach, red flowers, herbs and dried earth. Delicate, but lengthy and ideal with sushi. (ES)
Apparent new oak in the form of coffee, chocolate and toast weaves its way through the damson plum, prune, dark cherry and anise. Full throttle, with a brilliant finale. (ES)
93 DOMINUS ESTATE DOMINUS 2012, NAPA, UNITED STATES ($317)
Dark colour with purplish rim. Deep nose; the fruity aromas are covered by the oak expression of spices and pastry cream. Very full-bodied and very concentrated, thick texture, tight but tender, chunky tannins. Heavy but balanced. Excessive? Certainly impressive. (GBQc)
92 SEA STAR PINOT GRIS 2016, SOUTHERN GULF ISLANDS, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($22)
Lifted notes of green apple, pear and apple skin precede a generous palate of stone fruit, citrus and tangerine before a luscious, lingering, zesty finish. (TP)
91 LAMBLIN CHABLIS PREMIER CRU 2014, AC VAILLON, FRANCE ($27.50)
Clear pale yellow. Medium-intensity nose of ripe apple with added pineapple and citrus. Medium-bodied with archetypal Chablis slicing acidity. Elegant, with a rich Granny Smith apple flavour accented with some bitter orange peel leading to a long finish. A decent accompaniment, but too good for the chicken pot pie I had with it. Give it another couple of years. (RL)*
52 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
92 TOWNSHIP 7 RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, OKANAGAN ($40)
90 MAGNOTTA BLANC DE BLANC CHARDONNAY NV, NIAGARA ($19.95)
96 CHÂTEAU LA CONQUETE 2009, POMEROL, FRANCE ($39)
90 BLANKBOTTLE MOMENT OF SILENCE 2015, WO WELLINGTON, SOUTH AFRICA ($25)
It’s quite dense in the glass and displays a complex array of blackberries, cassis, cherries, graphite, fine oak spice and toasted oak notes on the nose. It’s robust and concentrated on the palate with fine tannic structure, dark fruits, vanilla and beautiful spice accents. Can age 5+ years. (RV)
Clear, very deep plum red. Aromas of dates, raisins, raspberries, black liquorice and a touch of allspice. Despite its age, the flavours are still fresh with plum fruit and some Merlot herbal accents. Lovely balance; tannins are still there but starting to say goodbye. Will withstand another couple of years. (RL)*
Off-dry, this Chardonnay bubbly was made in the traditional method and thus displays some toast/yeast notes alongside apple, citrus and honey. Rather weighty, the palate adds spicy/tropical notes. Excellent length. (ES)
Creamy, expansive and textural, but with an effortless and gentle lightness from the thin, driving vein of acidity that streams along. Lovely ripe pear, quince and pear skin is balanced well with lees and the comfort of older wood. There is a kelp/saline note that weaves through the weighted, lees-lined palate. Chenin clearly rules here, with the rivet of acidity throughout to the slight bump of warmth on the finish. (TR)
× Find a collection of tasting notes for wine, beer and spirits at quench.me/thenotes/
Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category. Our scores are based on the wine's quality as well as price point. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Carefully study the commentaries to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Treve Ring, Tim Pawsey, Silvana Lau and Jonathan Smithe. QUENCH USES THE 100-POINT SCALE 95-100 = Exceptional 90-94 = Excellent 85-89 = Very good
SPARKLING 94 LOUIS ROEDERER PREMIER BRUT CHAMPAGNE, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($39.95/375 ML)
Simply divine. Straw-coloured with a rich bouquet of brioche, honey-white blossoms and apple with a thread of minerality; medium bodied, dry, elegant and perfectly balanced with great length. A real thoroughbred. (TA)
92 HAYWIRE THE BUB 2015, OKANAGAN ($29.90)
Méthode traditionelle, bottle-fermented and aged; arguably the best Bub yet, with fine, persistent bubbles, a classic, yeastytoasty top, followed by a citrus and leesy palate with very definite Pinot flavours. Focused, elegant mouthfeel, all wrapped up with a mineral background, lively acidity and non-stop finish. (TP)
91 FEATHERSTONE CUVEÉ JOY SPARKLING 2012, NIAGARA ($35)
This is 100% Chardonnay that spends 30 months on lees and another 2 years in bottle, made in the traditional method. The nose shows toasty brioche notes with citrus, biscuit and apple. It’s deliciously dry on the palate with an energetic mousse and citrus/apple flavours with lovely toasted notes through the finish. (RV)
80-84 = Good 75-79 = Acceptable 70 & under = Below average *Available through wine clubs
89 MESTRES 1312 BRUT RESERVA CAVA, SPAIN ($20.55)
Pale yellow, small short-lived bubbles. Green apple, watermelon, limestone; rancio-like notes developing in the glass. Delicate, clean fruity taste; very dry, almost tannic, especially in the finish. Ready to drink. (GBQc)
89 JAILLANCE CRÉMANT DE BORDEAUX CUVÉE DEL’ABBAYE BRUT ROSÉ AOC, FRANCE ($27.69)
Light partridge eye in colour with fine bead, and floral, spicy and red cherry scents. Cherry flavour comes with appetizing sour bite, finishing with refreshing, crisp acidity, a dash of vanilla biscuit and stony mineral grip. Offers plenty of charm at a reasonable price. (SW)
89 BLUE MOUNTAIN BRUT 2013, OKANAGAN ($28.45)
Very pale, fine bubbles. Fresh fruity nose, simple but clean notes of biscuit; vinous. Clean flavour, great balance in the fruity and round mid-palate. Starts to show hints of rancio over time. Ready to drink. A characterful sparkling, worth its price. (GBQc)
86 CAVAS HILL 1887 BRUT, PENEDÈS, SPAIN ($14)
This is a round, frisky and approachable Cava, with yellow and red apple, plums and a riff of orange citrus on the finish. Stony and bright, this is amply padded out with a noticeable bump of residual
sugar at 12 g/L. Nice buzzy acidity on the finish. Chill well and drink now at brunch. (TR)
83 CIROTTO ASOLO 2015, DOC PROSECCO SUPERIORE, ITALY ($22.17)
Pale silvery-yellow with sparse bubbles. Faint nose of pear and apple. Fizzier on the palate than it looks in the glass, tasting of lemon and melons with a slight sweetness. Good party wine. Drink up. (RL)*
WHITE AUSTRALIA 92 MOUNTADAM ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2015, EDEN VALLEY, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($24.95)
Pale straw colour with green highlights; toasty, peachy-melon nose with oak spice; medium-bodied, dry, elegant, fresh and lively on the palate with toasted hazelnut and white peach flavours. Great length. (TA)
88 CLARE VALLEY ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2016, CLARE VALLEY ($15.95)
This barrel-fermented Chardonnay is certainly wallet-friendly. It’s medium straw in colour with a spicy, lightly floral, OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 53
NOTED apple and lemon nose. It’s medium-bodied, dry and beautifully balanced with a lovely mouthfeel. Fresh and lively on the palate with just a hint of oak. (TA)
88 WOLF BLASS YELLOW LABEL CHARDONNAY 2014, PADTHAWAY/ADELAIDE HILLS, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($18)
Lemon citrus and a whiff of tropical fruit and nutty, spicy overtones on the nose yield to richly concentrated ripe citrus and melon flavours, shifting to stone fruit on the mid-palate, finishing with buttery and lightly oaky notes. (SW)
87 MCGUIGAN BIN SERIES NO 9000 SÉMILLON 2016, HUNTER VALLEY ($14.95)
Classic Hunter Sémillon with mineral, lime, lemon, lanolin and lip-smacking acidity. Chill it well and pair alongside oysters on the half shell. (ES)
85 HARDY’S NOTTAGE HILL CHARDONNAY 2014, SOUTHEASTERN AUSTRALIA ($14)
Citrus, tropical fruit and floral scent give way to light lemon citrus flavour; a lick of tropical fruit with refreshing acidity and a clean fresh finish. (SW)
AUSTRIA 88 SOHM & KRACHER LION GRÜNER VELTLINER 2015, NIEDERÖSTERREICH ($19.95)
Crisp with flavours of grapefruit, apple, pear, white pepper, mineral and lemon balm. Light-bodied with a lingering personality. (ES)
CANADA 92 SEA STAR ORTEGA 2016, SOUTHERN GULF ISLANDS ($20)
Aromas of citrus, nectarine, gooseberry and pink grapefruit with well-balanced fruit and acidity on a focused mid-palate; complex layers of spicy hints and lingering zesty notes. One of the best examples of what should be the coastal islands flagship varietal. (TP) 54 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
92 TERRA VISTA FIGARO 2016, NARAMATA BENCH ($24)
This artful blend of Roussanne and Viognier adds up to a seductive nose of floral notes, honey and pear. A luscious, layered, well-textured and quite viscous palate of orchard and tropical fruits is wrapped in juicy acidity with spicy and nutty hints through a generous finish. (TP)
92 HAYWIRE SWITCHBACK PINOT GRIS 2015, OKANAGAN ($25)
Organic fruit wild-fermented and aged in concrete for 11 months on the lees. It has a complex, creamy nose of melon, guava, herbs, pear and baked apple. Such a creamy, round profile on the palate with ripe, harmonious fruits that caress the palate with just a hint of ginger/clove on the lively finish. (RV)
91 CLOS DU SOLEIL GROWER’S SERIES PINOT BLANC 2016, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($20.90)
One of few wineries that continues to make a statement with what used to be BC’s most widely planted white vinifera. Forward notes of floral, citrus and orchard fruits precede a palate of red apple and citrus, with a hint of spice; fresh with clean fruit and subtle acidity. (TP)
91 HAYWIRE WATERS & BANKS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, SUMMERLAND ($24.90)
All concrete-fermented and aged; lifted notes of tropical and stone fruit announce a refreshing, fruit-forward and well-textured palate of passion fruit, peach pit and guava, wrapped in moderate acidity with a hint of lemon zest through the lengthy finish. (TP)
91 TERRAVISTA ALBARIÑO 2016, OKANAGAN ($25)
From both Naramata and South Okanagan sources, aromas of orchard fruits and floral-citrus notes precede well-balanced fruit and acidity. Emphasized by juicy citrus and mineral notes, and supported by a crisp and clean lingering finish. (TP)
91 TERRAVISTA FANDANGO, NARAMATA BENCH ($25) A unique field blend of Albariño and Verdejo, the only one of its kind in Cana-
da, sports appealing, lifted apple and pear with citrus hints, followed by subtle zesty stone fruit and mineral notes. Some stony overtones buoyed by good acidity through a refreshing close. (TP)
91 BLACK HILLS ALIBI 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($25.90)
Classic blend of well-balanced Sauvignon Blanc (75%) and Sémillon (25%) yields vibrant tropical fruits, wild honey and pear on the nose, followed by a broad mouthfeel. Luscious but elegant, with flavours of citrus and quince supported by freshness, acidity and lingering creaminess. (TP)
91 CULMINA UNICUS 2016, OKANAGAN ($29)
Grüner Veltliner in the Okanagan? You bet, and here it’s done right. The nose opens with floral notes followed by flint, ginger, lemon curd and apple pie aromas. It has a spicy edge on the palate with pronounced notes of ginger and jasmine that work well with the citrus, pear and baked apple flavours all propped up by zippy acidity on the finish. (RV)
91 FIVE ROWS CRAFT WINE PINOT GRIS 2016, NIAGARA ($35)
This is an opulent, ripe and highly aromatic Gris with a nose of peach cobbler, baked apple pie, apricot, honey and melon. It has beautiful texture in the mouth with rich, ripe flavours of peach, tropical fruits and decent acidity holding it all together. (RV)
91 INNISKILLIN DISCOVERY SERIES LEGACY PINOT GRIS 2014, NIAGARA ($35)
A fragrant wine with melon, poached pear, baked apple, toast and spice from a touch of oak aging. It has wonderful texture on the palate with bold pear, apple pie and melon flavours to go with that integrated spice. (RV)
90 STAG’S HOLLOW TRAGICALLY VIDAL 2016, OKANAGAN FALLS ($17) Rarely seen in BC as a table wine, this vineyard once supplied grapes for Icewine. Vibrant aromas of pear and zest notes followed by a luscious, juicy
pear and tropical palate with good mouthfeel and just enough acidity to keep it structured. (TP)
90 QUAILS’ GATE CHENIN BLANC 2016, OKANAGAN ($17.99)
Tired of Chardonnay? Try this delicious Chenin: Light straw in colour with a minerally, quince and green pear nose; medium-bodied, dry, fresh and lively palate with well-balanced lemon and green pear flavours. (TA)
90 INTRIGUE WINES FROSTED VINES 2016, LAKE COUNTRY ($18)
A unique, refreshing, very off-dry sipper blends Kerner (47%), Riesling (30%) and Ehrenfelser (23%) picked only after the first frost. Honey and floral notes with apple and hints of petroleum on the nose followed by an unabashedly zippy and semi-sweet lemon-lime palate with good length and juicy acidity. Cries out for spicy foods such as curries and pad Thai. (TP)
90 INNISKILLIN P3 DISCOVERY SERIES 2016, NIAGARA ($20)
An interesting blend of Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc that shows a slight copper colour in the glass. It has a robust nose of apples, citrus and spice with hints of rhubarb and cherry fruit. It’s dry and spunky on the palate with lovely texture and a complex array of fruit flavours. (RV)
90 FEATHERSTONE CANADIAN OAK CHARDONNAY 2015, NIAGARA ($22)
This Chard was fermented with wild yeast strains in Canadian oak barrels and further aged in Canadian oak for 1 year. This has a big buttery nose of poached pear, baked apple, caramel, toasted vanilla and a range of baking spices. It’s a big, full-on Chard with orchard fruits and then butterscotch, vanilla, caramel and toasted oak flavours that benefit from just a squirt of citrus on the finish. (RV)
90 HAYWIRE SWITCHBACK GRIS 2016, SUMMERLAND ($24.90)
From the original home vineyard, now certified organic, this fruit-forward, all
concrete-aged Gris delivers tropical and orchard fruits up-front before a well-structured and broadly textured palate with generous mouthfeel but still lively acidity throughout the close. (TP)
89 NIAGARA COLLEGE TEACHING WINERY BALANCE DRY RIESLING 2015, NIAGARA ($13.95)
Gold-medal winner at this year’s Ontario Wine Awards. Aromatic, with copious amounts of lime, apple, bergamot, honey and mineral that carries through onto the extended finale. Pair with ceviche or chilled shellfish. (ES)
89 FORT BERENS CHARDONNAY 2016, BC ($19)
The nose is fresh and lively with aromas of grilled pineapple, citrus, bright apple and subtle spice. It’s fresh and fruity on the palate with tropical fruits and integrated apple and zesty citrus with a racy, mouth-watering finish. (RV)
88 QUAILS’ GATE GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2016, OKANAGAN ($15.99)
Very pale, almost water-white in colour with a spicy, aromatic, light lychee and rose-petal nose; medium-bodied, showing more varietal character on the palate than on the nose; dry, medium-bodied, lychee and grapefruit flavours. (TA)
CHILE 87 MONTES TWINS WHITE 2016, ACONCAGUA VALLEY ($16)
Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Viognier from the Aconcagua come together in this creamy, medium-bodied white, one ripe with tropical fruit and finishing with toasty spice and a heat wave. Suitable for richer white fish with fruit salsa — think Chilean or Peruvian. (TR)
CROATIA 88 STINA WINERY WHITE CUVÉE 2015, BRAČ ISLAND ($19.49)
A blend of indigenous Pošip and Vugava varieties together with 10% Chardonnay, this aromatic white offers floral and
lightly perfumed yellow fruit with mild apricot flavours and distinctive stony mineral. Different but charming wine, well worth a try. (SW)
FRANCE 90 DOMAINE SERVIN VAILLONS CHABLIS PREMIER CRU 2015, CHABLIS ($34.95)
From a warm vintage comes this accessible Chablis full of apple, white peach, citrus and salty minerals. Medium body, dry and mouth-watering acidity round out the package. (ES)
90 DOMAINE BOBINET LES GRUCHES 2015, AOC SAUMUR, LOIRE ($35)
Sebastien and Emeline Bobinet are in high demand for their low-interventionist wines (all the rage in Paris, London and the like), so to have a few cases on our shores is a big win. Stock up! The couple organically farm 7 ha in Saumur (with their horse plow) and with vines ranging from 25-80 years of age. Wild yeast-fermented, sans additives, and aged in old 300 L wood before being bottled unfined and unfiltered, this lays on a clay and herbal base, creamy with wild herbs and a cut of anise. Very light waxy, hazelnut, yellow plum throughout the flow to the pithy finish. This lacks Chenin’s shearing cut of acid, but shows up with a honeyed, dense form to impress. (TR)
89 DOMAINE DE LA RENNE TOURAINE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015, LOIRE ($14.95)
This bargain Sauvignon comes on like a white Bordeaux. White-gold in colour, it shows a grassy, green plum and lanolin nose with a light floral note. On the dry, medium-bodied palate, a note of lychee with a lemon-lime finish. (TA)
89 BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS LES DEUX LOUPS 2014, BURGUNDY ($16.95)
Côteaux Bourguignons is a regional wine appellation in France, covering the entire Burgundy region from the area around Auxerre down to Beaujolais. From this OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 55
NOTED region Bouchard Père & Fils make this blend of Chardonnay and Aligoté. Pale yellow in colour, it shows a spicy, apple nose. It’s medium-bodied, dry and crisp with crabapple and green pear flavours and a lemony finish. A great introduction to white Burgundy. (TA)
89 DOMAINE D’AVRILLÉ SAUVIGNON 2016, VAL DE LOIRE IGP ($17) Opens with delicate scents of white flowers and green fruit, showing pure varietal Sauvignon fresh green fruit flavours, backed by vibrant acidity and steely mineral. Has charm and offers fine value. (SW)
89 DOMAINE DE LA ROSIÈRE JONGIEUX 2015, AOC SAVOIE ($20)
Stony, streamlined and bright, this lively Jacquère charms with herbal meadow blossoms, green apple and scents of green fig, lemon thistle and nettle. A river stream of minerality beds this light-bodied white, one that flourishes in the steep clay-limestone slopes of the French Alps. A herbal lick of lees carries throughout, until lemon zest, white blossoms and light smoked stone ring on the crisp finish. Honest, simple, charming, smashable. (TR)
89 GUY ALLION DOMAINE DE HAUT PERRON SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, TOURAINE SAUVIGNON AC ($20)
Fresh green fruit with floral and steely mineral on the nose, lively green apple and tart gooseberry flavours, with brisk acidity and gun flint mineral, finishing crisply clean. Polished, disciplined Loire style. (SW)
88 PIERRE SPARR RÉSERVE PINOT GRIS 2015, ALSACE ($18.95)
More octane here than in previous vintages. Aromatic; there is cream, honey, tropical fruit, sweet peach and spice. The palate shows heft, and there is a touch of residual sugar. Chill well and serve alongside Thai cuisine. (ES)
88 BOUCHARD PÈRE ET FILS 2015, BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ AC ($21.99) A worthy stand-in for standard Bour-
56 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
gogne Chardonnay showing similar green apple and floral notes, though with sturdy, workman-like weight and grip. Will pair well with a variety of cream-based white meat dishes, roast chicken or pork. (SW)
88 CHÂTEAU DE TRACY POUILLY-FUMÉ 2015, AOC POUILLY-FUMÉ ($40)
Wines have been made from the vineyards of this Château since 1396, with the Count and Countess Alain d’Estutt d’Assay in ownership of the estate since 1952. Today, it is run by their children. Sharp, crisp and riffing, this intense white stings with passionfruit, tangerine and ripe peach before a scratch of pink grapefruit on the lingering finish. (TR)
87 LOUIS LATOUR CHARDONNAY 2015, BOURGOGNE AC ($24.50)
Clean citrus and light floral scents yield to crisp lemon citrus, a touch of green apple, light chalky mineral with medium weight and length in the mouth. Expresses generous flavours of the ripe ’15 vintage. (SW)
GERMANY 89 DR VON BASSERMANNJORDAN RIESLING TROCKEN 2015, PFALZ ($27)
This is sourced from the Bassermann-Jordan estate vineyards in Ruppertsberg, fermented wild and without any additives. Alluring nose of stones, lemon verbena, tangerine, pear skin and a wash of petrol on the juicy, pulpy, cushioned core. Dry and honey-sheened, this matches well the bitter pithiness of the citrus against underripe orchard fruit, all bedded with stones, plumped with Pfalz generosity, and finishing with a swipe of anise. (TR)
88 LOOSEN BROS DR L RIESLING 2015, MOSEL ($13.95)
Great value here! Pure, authentic Mosel, with lime, mineral, white peach and apple. Off-dry with refreshing acidity providing focus. Bring on the Szechuan cuisine! (ES)
87 UBER RIESLING KABINETT 2015, PFALZ ($14.10)
Very pale in colour; minerally, kiwi flavours with good tension between sweetness and acidity. Just a touch of oxidation (browning-apple flavour) on the finish. (TA)
ITALY 90 VILLA RAIANO GRECO DI TUFO 2015, CAMPANIA ($23.95)
A rich golden colour leads you to a bouquet of spicy, sweet herbs and nectarines with a floral top note; medium-bodied and dry with well-balanced peachy-herbal flavours carried on a thread of minerality. (TA)
90 FORADORI FONTANASANTA MANZONI BIANCO 2014, IGT VIGNETI DELLE DOLOMITI ($40)
As strikingly singular and memorable as the natural wine producer herself, Manzoni Bianco is a cross of Riesling and Pinot Bianco, embodying both the citrus purity of Riesling and the perfumed orchard blossoms of the Bianco. This grows in the calcareous clay hills above Trento and was fermented on the skins in cement tanks, followed by 12 months of aging in acacia casks. Pink perfumed blossoms, bruised quince, yellow fruit on a light bed of nut, nectarine and slick of herbal oil. A quiet hum of minerals and white grapefruit on the finish. This wine will turn more honeyed and nutty with time. (TR)
89 SENTIERI PECORINO 2015, ABRUZZO ($15.95)
Pale yellow. As with many biodynamic wines, minerality (chalk in this case) is at the forefront. Fruitiness is present but with muted, discreet notes of wax and honey. Dry acidity; its medium body relies on the minerality. Mid-palate has good volume and the finish is impressive in both length and expression. (GBQc)
89 UMANI RONCHI CASAL DI SERRA 2015, VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI DOC CLASSICO SUPERIORE ($20) Elegantly perfumed floral scents, with fresh yellow fruit on the nose shift to
concentrated citrus flavour; background tropical and stone fruit, supported by firm mineral grip, balanced acidity and a mélange of complex fruit flavours on the finish. (SW)
88 RUFFINO 2015, DOC ORVIETO CLASSICO, UMBRIA ($13.50)
Almonds, kernel, nut oil, orange oil, tangerine skin and heady lanolin-lined lees in this Orvieto Classico from Umbria. Density without heft, this lingers with stones and wild herbs. Lovely intensity in a slimmer frame and would make for an ideal partner to grilled halibut or sesame scallops. Great value. (TR)
88 VELENOSI QUERCIANTICA 2016, VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI DOC CLASSICO ($17) Fresh floral and yellow fruit scents lead the way for delicate lemon citrus, melon and tropical fruit, supported by firm mineral and lively acidity. Medium-length finish. (SW)
88 MIOPASSO FIANO NV, TERRE SICILIANE IGP ($19.64)
From the Gela region of Eastern Sicily and made from the distinctive regional Fiano grape, this one offers ripe yellow tropical fruit and honeyed floral scents, with full-flavoured ripe stone fruit, melon and a trace of banana. Finishes quite dry with a distinctive mineral overtone. (SW)
87 CANICATTÌ LA FERLA INZOLIA 2015, IGP TERRE SICILIANE ($15)
From an indigenous Sicilian varietal. Clear pale yellow. Faint nose of apple and hazelnuts. Medium-bodied, nicely balanced with a long finish; tastes strongly of pears, with apple and citrus. Drink up. (RL)*
NEW ZEALAND 91 SACRED HILL SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, MARLBOROUGH ($18.95)
Very pale straw colour with a grassy, green plum and grapefruit nose; medium-bodied, crisply dry with green plum and elderberry flavours carried on racy
acidity. Well-balanced with great length. A joy to drink. (TA)
90 TAKA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, MARLBOROUGH ($17.17) Clear pale silvery yellow. Medium-intensity nose of gooseberry, mango and banana. Light-bodied and quite tart with a near-vinegary prickle to the acidity. Flavours of pineapple, lemon and melon. Drink up. (RL)*
89 KONO SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015, MARLBOROUGH ($18.95)
A zesty mix of lime, passion fruit, nectarine, fruit salad, jalapeño, verbena and honey. Brisk acidity helps carry the flavours. Drink now. (ES)
87 MATUA VALLEY PINOT GRIS 2015, GISBORNE ($22)
You never really know what you’re going to get with New Zealand Pinot Gris. This one is ripe, full-bodied and honeyed pear, surprisingly showing some maturity beyond its 2015 vintage and the warmth of the fruit basket of Gisborne, on the North Island. Marmalade and ginger finish out the snappy finish. (TR)
SLOVENIA 91 MOVIA SIVI PINOT GRIGIO 2014, BRDA ($35)
The Movia estate dates back to 1700, straddling 22 borderland ha of land, about half of which lie on the Italian side of the Goriška Brda (Collio) and the remainder in Slovenia (ZGP Brda). This iconic naturalist producer makes wines of place, not grape. There is a distinct and overt earthy swing to this layered, complexed and characterful Pinot Gris. Some are quick to call “cork” on this, but none is there. There is lots of other stuff to uncover however. Oxidative, sure, and alluringly so, this is harvested later than any contemporaries, wild-fermented in barrique, on lees, without racking, with no additives at all. Light honey, crabapples, honey, Seville orange, broken stones and medicinal, mint-threaded meadow herbs on the tight, textural, lingering and bracing finish. Not an easy wine; wild and
unruled, and unapologetically so, yet I found myself returning to this complete, balanced and interesting wine over 3 evenings in a row, each time uncovering more layers within. (TR)
SOUTH AFRICA 92 REYNEKE BIODYNAMIC CHENIN BLANC 2016, WO STELLENBOSCH ($30)
Biodynamic beauty. Reyneke was South Africa’s first certified biodynamic vineyard and winery, and all their wines are made without additives (yeasts, enzymes acidity or settling agents). Young RSA star winemaker John Reyneke’s old vine (50+ years) Chenin Blanc on decomposed granite loans is harvested from a single vineyard in the Polkadraai Hills, just west of Stellenbosch. Whole-bunch pressed, this was fermented in both 300 L barrels (second fill) and a 2,500 L foudré, and spent 10 months on the lees followed by a 2-month stint in stainless for tightening. Serious and savoury, this vibrates the length with a flinty mineral hum, with savoury meadow herbs, lemon thistle and quince lining the medium-plus palate. There’s a gentle but streaming wild bergamot/Earl Grey tea that lingers on the finish. A striking Chenin. (TR)
88 PAINTED WOLF THE DEN CHENIN BLANC 2016, WO SWARTLAND ($14)
Similar to last year, this remains a value gem on our market, a varietally true Chenin at a killer price. And that’s not even considering this is from 20- to 40-year-old Swartland vines, partially dry-farmed and partially wild-fermented. There’s also parts of this wine that were fermented and aged in stainless, some with French oak staves and some with a good swath of earthy, funky lees and a long, slow ferment for mouthfeel and texture. Did I mention the price? Shiny and bright, with juicy pear, apple, light herbal lees and ample tight citrus on a well-cushioned palate. A splash of 10% Chardonnay seems redundant, but it works. Youthful, vibrant and likeable — stock up. (TR) OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 57
NOTED 88 GLEN CARLOU CLASSIC CHARDONNAY 2014, WO PAARL ($20)
Relatively young by South African standards (and a winemaking tradition more than 350 years old), Glen Carlou was founded in 1985 and is now in the hands of Hess Family Estates. This Chardonnay was sourced from 10 different sites in Paarl and picked over 3 weeks. After ferment, the wine spent an additional 10 months in barrel to knit. Rich and creamy, with waves of lemon curd, tangerine and sun-ripened pear. Acidity is lemon-lined and works to swell the weight. All this intensity is packaged in a 13.5% form, with a glow of warmth on the finish. A fuller style set to take on richer seafood or poultry. (TR)
88 ANTHONIJ RUPERT CAPE OF GOOD HOPE CAROLINE 2015, WO SWARTLAND ($30)
This is one of the Anthonij Rupert projects, now owned by the Rupert family and based on the L’Ormarins Farm in Franschhoek, dating back to the 17th century. This is a blend of Chenin Blanc, Roussanne, Viognier and Marsanne from the decomposed Malmesbury shale slopes of the Riebeek-Kasteel mountains. 60-yearold Chenin bush vines make up the majority of this blend, one that was 10% new French oak fermented and spent 9 months on the lees. Perfumed and full-bodied, with heady pear, quince paste and cream on a waxy base, propped with toasty oak. The finish is equally perfumed and polished, with a lingering honeyed grapefruit note. Reflections of richer Rhône. (TR)
SPAIN 92 SOTO Y MANRIQUE LA ORQUESTA 2014, VT CASTILLA Y LEON ($32)
This biodynamic, characterful and challengingly alluring white is mostly high-altitude 75-year-old Verdejo vines from poor, sandy limestone soils. A 10% splash of Chardonnay fills out this naturalist white, one shaped by the extreme continental climate. 50% was 58 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
aged reductively in clay amphorae with the remainder fermented and aged in old oak barrels, with battonage for 10 months. Oxidative-leaning and saltlicked, this is roasted hazelnuts and almonds, pear skin, light quince, green fig and fennel to a lingering, salted stone finish. This wine shines when it has time open, allowed to warm some and expand. (TR)
88 ARIYANAS SECO SOBRE LÍAS FINAS 2014, DO SIERRAS DE MÁLAGA ($24.83)
Clear medium-deep gold. Medium-intensity nose of orange, grapefruit and lime peel drizzled with a lot of caramel. Medium-bodied, bone-dry but grapey and fruity, with a hint of pine nuts on the finish. Good acidity provides structure for this unusually elegant Muscat. Drink up. (RL)*
UNITED STATES 92 ROBERT MONDAVI RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2014, CARNEROS, NAPA ($44.95)
Light straw colour; spicy oak, lemon and green apple with an apple-blossom note on the nose; full-bodied, dry, rich and full on the palate with toasty, citrus, pineapple and caramel flavours. Beautifully balanced and elegant with a long, nutty finish. (TA)
91 RODNEY STRONG CHALK HILL CHARDONNAY 2014, SONOMA ($27)
The nose shows creamy apple, pear, vanilla toast, citrus and spice. This classic Sonoma Chard displays a spicy bite on the palate to go with baked apples, poached pear, vanilla cream and a range of toasted oak spices. Good acidity keeps it lively and fresh on the finish. (RV)
91 STAG’S LEAP WINERY CHARDONNAY 2015, NAPA ($34.95)
This is a linear Chardonnay which reveals honey, spice, apple, pear, banana, white flowers and minerals. Elegant on the palate, it is refreshing and ideally suited for lobster dishes. (ES)
91 ROBERT MONDAVI RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2014, CARNEROS ($44.95)
Pear, pineapple, sweet peach and golden apple meet up with oak influence: cream, vanilla and spice. Taut, there is crisp acidity, with citrus and minerality carrying the finale. (ES)
89 RODNEY STRONG CHARLOTTE’S HOME ESTATE VINEYARDS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015, SONOMA ($19)
A nose of ripe honeydew melon, citrus, tropical fruits and lime. It has a bold expression on the palate with ripe melon, lemon, tropical fruit, lemon and zesty lime on the finish. (RV)
ROSÉ 91 QUAILS’ GATE ROSÉ 2016, WEST KELOWNA, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($16)
Predominantly Gamay Noir (70%) with Pinot Noir (20%) and Pinot Gris (10%); sports aromas of red apple, strawberry and cherry before a juicy, citrus-toned red berry with gentle hints of grapefruit on the palate. Fruity but dry with solid acidity and a firm finish. (TP)
90 BLACK HILLS ROSÉ, SOUTH OKANAGAN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($24.90)
Pinot Noir (100%) produces medium rose colour in the glass, with lifted bright cherry up-front, followed by a juicy, cherry and strawberry-toned palate through a refreshing end. (TP)
89 FOUNDSTONE ROSÉ 2016, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA ($14.17)
From the Barbera varietal. Clear pink-tinted orange. Medium-intensity nose of pineapple, strawberry, peach and apricot. Light-bodied, slightly sweet but still crisp, tastes like strawberries glazed with that bright red stuff they put on candy apples, also a hint of papaya. Perfect with charcuterie and an assortment of olives. Drink up. (RL)*
89 HIDDEN BENCH LOCUST LANE ROSÉ 2016, ONTARIO ($21.95)
Pale orange-pink in colour with a minerally nose of red cherries and a floral grace note; medium-bodied, dry, clean and crisp with red plum and citrus flavours. (TA)
88 OGIER VENTOUX ROSÉ 2016, PROVENCE, FRANCE ($14.15)
A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. It’s what I would call an allyear-round rosé, not restricted to the summer months. Light pinkish-orange in colour, it has a nose of wild strawberries with mineral and floral notes to give it complexity. Medium-bodied and dry, it offers mouth-freshening flavours of strawberries and raspberries carried on lively acidity. (TA)
88 JEANJEAN LE PIVE GRIS 2016, IGP SABLE DE CAMARGUE, FRANCE ($15.05)
Pale pink. Light strawberry, a salty note reminding of the sea. Delicate taste, fresh and balanced with tender acidity and a slightly fat mid-palate. Drink up. (GBQc)
88 CELLIER DES PRINCES LA PRINCESSE ROSÉ 2015, IGP VAUCLUSE, FRANCE ($17)
This light pale Vaucluse rosé is smarter than the cartoon girl on the label might indicate. The label changes colour once the wine temperature reaches 12°C, indicating that it’s ready to drink. Liberally. A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault, this spent a quick 6 months in tank after a cool fermentation to keep the freshness front and centre. Youthful strawberry, raspberry, cranberry share the stage on this dry, light-bodied and pink one that finishes sunny and juicy. Chill and enjoy this little charmer this summer. (TR)
RED ARGENTINA 88 BODEGA RENACER ENAMORE 2014, MENDOZA ($35) An Alberto Antonini project, Enamore
is an Amarone-style wine, where grapes are dried appassimento style to create a concentrated, full wine. Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bonarda and Cabernet Franc are sweet and thicker on the full palate, with ripe and dried plum, dried blackberry, raspberry leather and pink florals drawn across thick, sueded and — at the end — drying tannins. Cushy, velvety, warm on the finish; think of this as a red-fruited/pink floral and lighter version of Amarone. (TR)
AUSTRALIA 86 MCGUIGAN BIN 4000 CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($15)
Appealing ripe blackberry and raspberry fragrance with similar fruit profile on the palate; a splash of chocolate, soft tannins and balanced acidity complete the picture. (SW)
BRAZIL 89 SALTON RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013 ($13.67)
Very deep garnet. Mature, medium-intensity nose of raisins, cassis, instant coffee and caramel from oak. Full-bodied; tannins are soft, acidity and alcohol taste prominently. Quite fruity, with sour cranberry and cherry flavours. Long finish. Drink this year. (RL)*
CANADA 92 PLAY ESTATE SYRAH 2014, OKANAGAN ($25)
fruit precede a plush and plummy palate with good structure supported by well-integrated tannins; defined by cassis, spice and oak, with varietal meaty gamy notes leading into a lengthy close. An impressive first release. (TP)
92 PILLITTERI EXCLAMATION WINEMAKER’S SELECT CABERNET FRANC 2012, NIAGARA ($68)
This is a beautiful and structured Cabernet Franc with a powerful and penetrating nose of savoury cherry, raspberry, bramble, earth, redcurrants, vanilla toast and rousing spice notes. It’s concentrated and packed with flavour on the palate with both red and dark fruits, ripe tannins, structure and a finish that lasts for days. (RV)
91 HAYWIRE SECREST MOUNTAIN VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2015, OKANAGAN ($27)
A brambly, savoury nose of wild raspberry, black cherry and a subtle note of cassis. It’s pure and delicious on the palate, a rich broth of wild red berries, bramble, earth, smooth tannins and length through the finish. (RV)
91 BLACK HILLS CARMÉNÈRE 2015, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($45) A rare (for Canada) standalone of this varietal delivers seductive up-front black fruit. Black with hints of sage and wild berries that announce a plush and plummy but focused palate with a viscous mouthfeel. Underpinned by approachable tannins, with gentle spice and leather notes before a polished and long-lasting finish. (TP)
Cool-climate-inspired Syrah with varietally correct meaty and gamy aromas plus red and black fruit before a generous and juicy palate of blackberry and damson. A distinct mineral undertone, approachable tannins and measured toastiness from 2/3 used oak, plus a streak of bacon before a solid finish. (TP)
91 BLACK HILLS CARMÉNÈRE 2016, OKANAGAN ($50)
92 CLOS DU SOLEIL GROWER’S SERIES SYRAH 2014, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($26.90)
90 KACABA CABERNET FRANC RESERVE 2015, ONTARIO ($44.95)
Vibrant aromas of crushed red and black
Dense purple in colour with a violet tint at the rim; a cedary nose of blackcurrants with a hint of oak; full-bodied, dry, well-extracted blackcurrant and blackberry flavours, juicy on the palate and beautifully balanced. (TA)
Dark ruby-purple in colour with a cedary nose of currants and a light floral note; OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 59
NOTED medium- to full-bodied, dry, well-extracted blackcurrant and black cherry flavours. Well structured with fresh acidity and good length. (TA)
89 TINHORN CREEK OLDFIELD SERIES PINOT NOIR 2013, OKANAGAN ($31.99)
Light ruby in colour; earthy, raspberry and dried tea-leaf nose; medium-bodied, candied raspberry flavour with a note of smoky oak, lively acidity and a warm alcoholic finish. (TA)
CHILE 89 ARBOLEDA SINGLE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2015, ACONCAGUA COSTA DO ($20)
Shows fine Pinot varietal character with scents of red berry-fruit, earthy barnyard and mushroom aromas. Good depth of succulent red fruit on the palate with savoury overtones suggestive of OldWorld style. Very good value. (SW)
88 FAMILIA ZUCCARDI TITO ZUCCARDI 2013, UCO VALLEY ($35)
This is an opaque blend of 80% Malbec, fleshed out with Cabernet Sauvignon and Ancellotta (most often seen in Emilia-Romagna and prized for its inky colour) from Paraje Altamira in the Uco Valley. The additional grapes give Malbec a fleshy, red-fruited character, with cherry, liquorice and tobacco housed by gritty tannins and seasoned with roasted wood and aromatic herbs. Fine spices — cinnamon, nutmeg — warm the warm finish. Requires decanting to fully appreciate now (or a hunk of grilled meat). (TR)
FRANCE 94 BARON DE BRANE 2010, MARGAUX ($35.50)
Clear very deep blackcurrant. Medium-intensity nose of cassis, cedar and instant coffee. Fresh-tasting blackcurrant and black cherry fruit, with soft tannins on a very long finish. Feminine and classy, drink over the next couple of years. (RL)* 60 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
92 LA CONQUETE 2010, POMEROL ($30)
Clear but opaquely deep plum red. Initially medium-intensity nose of plums, raisins and black cherries opens in the glass to dates, vanilla and maple syrup. Lots of fruit, alcohol and tannins, but they are not yet in balance; give this another few years and the score will rise. (RL)*
90 DOMAINE DES BILLARDS HERITIERS LORON 2015, STAMOUR AC ($29.41)
Perfumed dark fruit, a touch of spice and a whiff of tannic astringency. Luscious dark cherry and raspberry flavours are enveloped in velvety tannins with a lick of peppery spice on the finish. Eminently quaffable now, but can develop further. (SW)
90 PIRON & LAMELOISE QUARTZ 2015, CHENAS AC ($29.79)
Classic Beaujolais Cru showing off another fine vintage with appetizing, succulent sour cherry flavours that call for gulping rather than sipping. Supported by food-friendly acidity and lightly firm tannic bite on the finish. (SW)
90 DOMAINE COMTE DE LAUZE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2014, RHÔNE ($39.95)
Dense ruby in colour with a spicy, cedary nose of blackberries and fresh herbs lifted by a note of lavender; medium- to full-bodied, savoury black cherry flavours fill the mouth. Firmly structured, this wine is still tight and deserves 3 to 4 years in the cellar. (TA)
89 TRENEL BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES 2015, BURGUNDY ($16.95)
Dense purple in colour, this flavourful Beaujolais offers a spicy, black cherry nose with a touch of oak. It’s medium-bodied, dry and well extracted with flavours of ripe cherry and plum. Fruity and firm, it finishes with grainy tannins. (TA)
89 CAP ROYAL ROUGE, BORDEAUX ($17.95)
A Bordeaux Supérieur (80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon) that punches well above its weight — or should I say price?
Deep ruby in colour with a spicy, cedary nose of cassis and coffee beans with a smoky note. Medium-bodied and dry, it offers sweet black fruit flavours with well-integrated oak. (TA)
89 CHÂTEAU HAUT-MONPLAISIR MALBEC 2014, CAHORS ($17.95)
Cahors in Southwest France has been making Malbec-based wines for centuries, but Argentina has stolen their thunder. You might like to try the French version though. It’s dense purple in colour with a cedary nose of plums and violets. It’s medium- to full-bodied, dry, fruity and firmly structured with a sour cherry flavour and lively acidity. (TA)
89 GÉRARD BERTRAND GRÈS DE MONTPELLIER SYRAH/GRENACHE 2014, LANGUEDOC ($18.95) Deep ruby in colour, this Syrah/Grenache blend shows a floral, cedary nose of blackberry and raspberry. Medium-bodied, it’s dry and well-balanced with savoury-herbal flavours of black fruits freshened by zesty acidity. (TA)
89 MICHEL JUILLOT PINOT NOIR 2015, BURGUNDY ($24.25)
Bright ruby. Red flowers, spices, ripe red fruits and light earth notes in an engaging nose. Light to medium body, fresh fruity taste with notes of fruit stones energized by a bright acidity and slightly firm tannins. Nice fruity finish. Drink within 2 to 3 years. (GBQc)
88 JEAN PERRIER CUVÉE GASTRONOMIE MONDEUSE 2015, VIN DE SAVOIE ($21.95)
Medium ruby. Fresh red fruits (raspberry, cherry) and dry earth. Light to medium body, soft, tender tannins, nice fruity taste. Simple and delicious. More fruit in the not-too-short finish. Drink up. (GBQc)
88 CHÂTEAU PEY LA TOUR RÉSERVE DU CHÂTEAU 2014, AC BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR ($23)
This vineyard dates to the Middle Ages. Respect. This blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon is splashed with 2% Petit Verdot before a year in oak (approximately 50% is new). Severe in youth,
as befitting a Bordeaux Superieur, this carries smoked stones, branchy tobacco and tight cassis on its strict form. There’s a wee cushion of black plum and blacker cherry on the mid-palate, but this strips back quickly to the tight, bitter-edged and powdery finish. Simple, classical, and proper; drink now with roast beef and Yorkshire pudding or hold for a couple of years in the cellar. (TR)
88 DOMAINE QUENARD MONDEUSE LA SAUVAGE 2015, VIN DE SAVOIE ($24.50)
Mondeuse is a grape originating in the region. Dark red. Fresh, fruity/spicy nose with earthy notes. Flavours of dark cherry and plum in the mouth, juicy texture in a dry tannic background. Short but clean finish. Ready to drink. (GBQc)
87 RIGAL ORIGINAL MALBEC COMPTE TOLOSAN 2015, CAHORS IGP ($18)
Scents of ripe red fruit and spice evolve to sweet cherry in the mouth with a lick of vanilla. Easy tannins have just enough bite, with food-friendly acidity and light tannic grip on the finish. (SW)
GREECE 88 CAVINO GRANDE RESERVE 2009, NEMEA ($17.95)
Made from 100% Agiorgitiko, this wine exudes damson plum, cherry liqueur, chocolate, brown sugar, tobacco and baking spice. Tannins are present but unobtrusive, and the flavour carries. Roast pork all the way. (ES)
88 STROFILIA ESTATE MOUNTAIN FISH AGIORGITIKO 2014, NEMEA, PÉLOPONNÈSE ($19)
Strofilia Estate was started by 2 friends in 1984. This is the latest project in their portfolio, “Syn+”, the result of the next generation experimenting with their family’s accomplished practices. This Agiorgitiko is from mountainous vineyards in Asprokambos and Psari in Nemea. Deep clay soils, whole cluster and 2 weeks on the skins, this spent 6 months in tank before bottling. Downy plum,
blackcurrant, cassis, wild cherry on the soft, generous and friendly palate, one with fine powdery, fuzzy tannins hugging the edges to a warming finish. A fine, potent line of acidity plumbs the whole. Rustic and charming; crack, chill and serve with pork. Good value. (TR)
finest renditions to be found in Piedmont. Dogliani is also where they believe the grape originated. Made from 55-year-old vines, it possess 15% alcohol and an explosive combination of blueberry, plum, raisin, spice, violets and scorched earth. Drink or hold. (ES)
ITALY
90 TEDESCHI CAPITEL NICALO 2015, VENEZIE ($17.95)
94 ALLEGRINI AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA 2012, VENETO
At 16% alcohol, this wine features layers of plum, cherry, spice, dried flowers, cocoa and raisins. Needless to say, it is full-bodied with a long finish and enough stuffing to age a decade, at least. (ES)
92 DONATELLA CINELLI COLOMBINI LEONE ROSSO ORCIA 2011, DOC ORCIA ($27)
DOC Orcia is produced in 13 municipalities between Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. This is 60/40 Sangiovese/Merlot from the historic estate, built by Donatella Cinelli Colombini’s ancestors in 1592. 6 months in tonneaux has given a frame of smoky structure, without overwhelming the plush fruit. Salted black liquorice, anise, brooding blackberry fills the dense, compact frame. This is youthful still; tannins are sticky, the medium body (13.5%) intense and the finish lengthy, salted and concentrated. That said, for all its potency, it’s drinking beautifully now, assisted by ample decanting and by the addition of roast lamb or game. (TR)
92 MASI AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SERÈGO ALIGHIERI VAIO ARMARON 2011, VENETO ($84.95)
Plum, cherry, spice, vanilla, toast, fig and chocolate are found in this powerful Amarone – after all, it is Masi! Lots of texture here, with an impressive aftertaste. Enticing right now, but there are easily 2 decades of life ahead. (ES)
91 MARZIANO ABBONA DOGLIANI PAPÀ CELSO 2015, PIEDMONT ($20) I am a sucker for good Dolcetto, and without a doubt, this bottling is one of the
This Rosso delle Venezie from one of the great Amarone producers is dense purple in colour with a smoky, blackberry nose augmented by vanilla-oak notes; it’s full bodied and dry with blackberry and blackcurrant flavours, well-structured with lively acidity and a firm finish. (TA)
90 PODERI COLLA BRICCO DEL DRAGO 2009, LANGHE, PIEMONTE ($29.75)
Dark ruby. Ripe nose of red and black berries, little oak. Mid-palate is velvety on the surface with a tight and firm backbone, slightly tannic in the finish. Great aging potential at a fair price. (GBQc)
90 IL GRIGIO DA SAN FELICE 2012, CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG RISERVA ($31)
Displays ruby red colour with warm, spicy scented red cherry and earthy mushroom aromas. Smooth and medium-bodied with fine red fruit flavours, silky tannins and still youthful acidity, it finishes with lightly dry tannic grip. (SW)
90 TENUTA TIGNANELLO MARCHESE ANTINORI CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2013, TUSCANY ($39.75)
Full ruby. Complex nose with pretty, ripe red fruit notes and integrated oak. Medium- to full-bodied, chubby mid-palate. Quite delicious already, it can wait a few more years. (GBQc)
90 PRODUTTORRI DEL BARBARESCO 2012,BARBARESCO DOCG ($49.54)
Opens with signature Nebbiolo scent of violets, red fruit, a pinch of cinnamon and clove, and a pleasant earthy aroma. Big, mouth-filling, lightly sweet red fruit, with distinctive redcurrant flavour, on the palOCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 61
NOTED ate finishing with still-aggressive acidity and very dry tannic grip. Give it another 3 to 5 years in the cellar. (SW)
full-bodied, firm tannic core wrapped in soft fruity texture. Compact, satisfying finish. (GBQc)
90 CIABOT BERTON BAROLO LA MORRA 2011, PIEMONTE ($53)
88 SASSOREGALE SANGIOVESE 2014, TUSCANY ($16.95)
Comfortably worn leather, dried raspberry and dried cherry pervade this Barolo from the commune of La Morra. Worn leather, worn cherry, ripe and savoury and finely salted on the mellow palate, showing much more age than its age. Tannins are softly buggy, and dried rose petals linger on the finish. This is from Ciabot Berton’s 8 ha of hillside Nebbiolo on sandy, marl and calcareous clay soils. After maceration on the skins for 16 days in concrete, this spent 18 months in Slovenian oak casks, followed by a tightening 6 months in stainless before bottling. (TR)
89 FALESCO VITIANO ROSSO 2015, UMBRIA IGP ($19.78)
Complex cherry fruit, spice and a whiff of subtle oak with robust, satisfyingly full-flavoured and well-integrated red fruit on the palate. Solid structure and balance makes for ready drinking, but will develop further. (SW)
89 DI MAJO NORANTE RAMITELLO 2012, DOC BIFERNO ROSSO, MOLISE ($24)
Black plum, black cherry and anise imbue this sultry, savoury blend of Montepulciano and Aglianico from DOC Biferno Rosso in Molise. Supple leather on the palate carries dried cherry and raspberry, dusky mulberry, anise and perfumed scrubby herbals (rosemary, thyme, rock roses). Lovely red-fruited and floral intensity for its 13.5% frame. (TR)
89 VILLA ANTINORI CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2013, TUSCANY ($29.95)
Dark ruby. Dry red fruits, inviting oaky notes and a flowery touch. Well balanced; full-bodied, almost elegant mid-palate. Powdery tannins, tight finish. (GBQc)
89 PRUNOTTO BAROLO 2012, PIEMONTE ($42.50)
Orange rim. Oak-dominated nose with notes of tar and liquorice. Medium- to 62 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
A bargain red from Maremma. Deep ruby in colour with a cedary nose of red cherries; medium bodied and dry. The cherry flavour is augmented by tangy redcurrant and bolstered by ripe tannins. (TA)
88 SELLA & MOSCA CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA DOC RISERVA 2012 ($20) Opens with red fruit, a whiff of dry herb, cinnamon and clove. Generous dark bitter cherry with appetizing sour bite supported by good tannic structure, lively acidity and medium length; satisfying finish. (SW)
PORTUGAL 90 SÃO MIGUEL ESCOLHA DOS ENOLOGOS 2014, ALENTEJO ($15)
They don’t get much better than this for the price! A blend of Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional. Dense purple in colour with a floral-spicy nose of black plums with a tobacco-leaf note; medium bodied, dry with richly extracted flavours of plum and mocha chocolate that finish firmly. (TA)
SOUTH AFRICA 89 WANDERING BEESTE SYRAH 2015, WO SWARTLAND ($25)
This skinny Syrah is aptly named and labelled for Africa’s famously skinny Nguni cattle. “Beeste” is the Afrikaans word for cattle, and “Wandering Beeste” was sourced from a farm high on Swartland’s Kasteelberg Mountain, sharing the steep, stony slopes with the wandering beestes. Young, lauded South African winemaker Donovan Rall oversees this line of wines from Boutinot, devoted to single-vineyard, terroir-expressive and low-intervention wines from around the Cape. This charming, bright, peppery red is half whole-berry, half whole-bunch, with sapid, resinous notes, perfumed black-
berry, black cherry and a slate/stone base. Tannins are gritty but fine and the acidity is brisk. Anise lingers on the end. A lovely, fresh, authentic, charming, medium-bodied Syrah that speaks of place. (TR)
85 KWV CLASSIC COLLECTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, WINE OF ORIGIN WESTERN CAPE ($12)
Shows developed dark berry-fruit with soft spice on the nose; smoky black fruit with dry tannic grip and balanced acidity, finishing quite dry. (SW)
SPAIN 89 TELMO RODRIGUEZ GABA DO XIL 2014, VALDEORRAS ($19.55)
Purplish. Red and black berries, spicy oak and earthy notes on a typical nose for the Mencia grape. Smooth texture, sharp acidity and a fresh fruity taste in the full mid-palate. Notes of fruit stones in the warm finish. Ready to drink. (GBQc)
89 FINCA DE LA RICA EL NOMADA SPECIAL SELECTION RIOJA 2014, DOC RIOJA ($35)
60-year-old Tempranillo and Graciano from the cooler, higher-altitude, calcium-clay soils of Labastida, in Rioja Alavesa. Finca de la Rica owns all the 39 ha of this village. A quarter of this was fermented in stainless, before all returning to French oak for 14 months. As grippy and strict as you’d expect from a youthful Rioja, though there’s a lovely core of plum and cherry that counters the tight tannins surrounded by mulberry, warm baking spice, tobacco leaves, light smoke and leather before the tight, astringent, cocoa-crusted finish. This medium-bodied red is far too young to drink now without protein (think pork or lamb), but the freshness and authenticity is solid. (TR)
UNITED STATES 93 QUILT CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, NAPA ($59.95)
From Joe Wagner (Belle Glos, Caymus) comes this overt red with lots of new oak
polish. Blueberry, kirsch, raisin, chocolate and spice. Full bodied and concentrated, it provides a mouthful of pure hedonism. Braised lamb shank would be the optimal accompaniment. (ES)
92 TREANA RED 2014, PASO ROBLES ($42.95)
Super-ripe, jammy and oaky, this blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Syrah exudes copious amounts of crème de cassis, Chambord liqueur, kirsch, chocolate fudge and coffee. Thick in the mouth, the tannins are buried under all the richness. Excellent length. (ES)
91 FRANK FAMILY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, NAPA ($66.95)
Blackcurrant, raspberry, vanilla, tobacco, anise. It starts off with a rich texture, then the grippy tannins of the 2013 vintage clamp down on the finale. Grill up a rib steak and top with a mushroom demi-glace and enjoy. (ES)
91 DOMINUS ESTATE NAPANOOK 2012, NAPA ($94.25)
Dark colour with purplish rim. Rich nose of black berries with lots of oak. Very smooth texture, velvety tannins, ripe flavours, concentrated mid-palate. A well-made technical wine. (GBQc)
91 CHIMNEY ROCK CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, STAGS LEAP DISTRICT ($101.95)
This is an elegant Napa Cab with a solid vertebrae of tannins. Full-bodied, there is cassis, tobacco, cocoa, spice and leather. Personally, I would hold until 2020 and then drink until 2030. (ES)
90 DONKEY & GOAT CARIGNANE 2015, MENDOCINO COUNTY AVA, CALIFORNIA ($50)
From 75-year-old organically farmed Carignan vines, this is from Testa Vineyards’ sandstone and loam soils in Mendocino, just over 520 m in altitude. After a 10-day maceration, this spent an additional 10 months in neutral French oak before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. Dusky plum, raspberry, mineral, black cherry, dried thyme is carried with fine, persistent acidity, lifted and bright,
all with a persistent perfumed overhue of wild bush blueberry. Bottled unfined and unfiltered (an overt cloudiness), this has a grippy duskiness on the lingering finish. A lovely pour, though wish it was about half the price. (TR)
90 FRANK FAMILY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, NAPA ($66.95)
The deep, intense purple colour suggests richness of flavour, which you get in spades. The spicy, cedary, blackcurrant nose leads into a full-bodied, dry wine that’s juicy and fruity with a flavour of blackcurrant jam held in check by ripe tannins. (TA)
89 RAVENSWOOD OLD VINE ZINFANDEL 2013, NAPA ($21.95)
Deep purple-ruby in colour with a nose of leather and black plums perfumed with oak spice; full-bodied, dry, peppery plum flavour, well balanced and firmly structured. (TA)
89 LA CREMA MONTEREY PINOT NOIR 2014, MONTEREY COUNTY ($26.95)
From the cool Monterey region comes this refined Pinot. It features a bouquet of cherry, beetroot and carnation. On the taste buds, the fruit is sweet with earth, vanilla and spice adding complexity. (ES)
89 STONEHEDGE GRAND RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, NAPA ($39.95)
A smooth and approachable Cab with black cherry, cassis, blueberry, blackberry, mint, smoke, cocoa and vanilla exploding from the glass. Rich; there are no hard edges. It is ready to go. (ES)
88 STONE VALLEY RED BLEND 2013, CALIFORNIA ($11.42)
Lots of oak on the nose, overlaying sour cherry, leather and black pepper aromas. Jam-packed with simple but ripe strawberry and plum flavours accented with soft acidity. Drink up. (RL)*
85 STONE VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, CALIFORNIA ($11) Clear medium-deep garnet. Medium-intensity, spicy nose of cassis, chocolate
and coffee. Simple flavours of dark cherry, light-bodied with minimal tannins left. Drink up. (RL)*
DESSERT 93 INNISKILLIN CANADIAN OAK AGED CHARDONNAY ICEWINE 2015, NIAGARA ($80/375 ML)
The white oak for this unique Icewine bottling comes from a forest just north of Brantford, Ont. The nose is enthralling for its range of sweet tropical fruits, sweet citrus rind, peach, apricot and vanilla/caramel notes. It’s super-charged honey sweet and delivers rich apricot, peach compote, pineapple and poached pear that’s succulent and unctuous on the palate but balanced somewhat by fairly decent acidity. (RV)
89 TAYLOR FLADGATE FINE WHITE PORT, DOURO, PORTUGAL ($19.95) A well-priced apéritif. Deep amber in colour with a nutty nose of dried apricot and orange peel; spicy flavours of orange, caramel and honey fill the mouth. Serve chilled. (TA)
BEER & CIDER SUPERFLUX HAPPYNESS, BC ($20/4 TALL CANS)
Formerly Machine Ales, this small Vancouver-based brewery had to change their name due to a copyright issue. Happyness is the juicy IPA of the moment that west coast beer lovers are queuing up for. It’s juicy in every way, from its dried apricot hue to its full body and fruity aromas, like orange rind and ripe mango, bursting from the glass. Expect to taste apricot, sweet carrots, grapefruit rind and pine with a prickly carbonation, creamy mouthfeel and a big, bitter finish. Take it out of the fridge for 15 minutes to let the beer warm up a little; you’ll miss out on the flavour complexity if you drink it ice-cold. (CL) OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 63
NOTED TWO ROADS BREWING ROAD TO RUIN DOUBLE IPA, CONNECTICUT ($14.95 /4 TALL CANS) New to Canada, this brewery is based in Stratford and is known for its assortment of award-winning beers crafted by Master Brewer Phil Markowski and his team. A mix of 4 American-grown hops pack a huge pine-and-lemon-punch and are complemented on a caramel malt backbone. It pours a deep amber, with a building bitter finale. (CL)
MILL STREET BREWERY WELTER WEIGHT SESSION IPA, ONTARIO ($3.10/473 ML)
Session-style IPAs clock in at between 4-5% ABVs, and are hugely popular because they pack in big, juicy hop flavour without the soaring ABVs. Welter Weight has beautiful aromas of peach, pineapple juice and some floral notes. It’s light golden, with a bright white foamy head and lots of delicate bubbles dancing in the glass. It drinks like a tropical fruit cup, with pineapple, pear and some juicy sweetness on the finish. No residual bitterness. (CL)
SILVERSMITH BREWING BLACK LAGER, ONTARIO ($7.75/650 ML)
DANDY BREWING COMPANY UNE VIEILLE MAÎTRESSE, ALBERTA ($7/650 ML)
This 3-year-old Calgary nano-brewery turned out 40 beers last year and is one of the most creative breweries in the province. Its Grisette, originally designed as a one-off, has won coveted year-round status (they only produce staple products). This quaffable, light-bodied straw-hued ale is made with rye and a French Saison yeast. The nose has delicate aromas of apple and pear leading to a lightly sweet grainy sip with a quick, crisp finish. (CL)
STONE CITY ALES 12 STAR SESSION ALE, KINGSTON, ON ($5.50/500 ML)
An explosion of mango and spicy florals erupts on the nose, priming the palate for a judiciously hoppy sip of pineapple and spicy bitterness with a nearly imperceptible malt backbone. This session ale is laser-focused on its bright, Galaxy and El Dorado hop profile with a dry, lightly bitter finish and a soft, delicately bubbly body. (CL)
BANDED PEAK PLAINSBREAKER, ALBERTA ($11.95/1 L)
Crafted in a church converted to a brewery in the picturesque Niagara region, this black lager is one of my favourites. On the nose, there’s baguette crust, a medium-roast coffee and a whisper of lemony florals. On the sip, there’s a hint of lemon-hop bitterness, with roast coffee; finishes with a crisp and clean finish signature of the lager style. (CL)
Opened last March by 3 former home brewers, this Calgary outfit has an impressive lineup of 3 year-round brews. The 5% ABV hopped-wheat ale is one of Canada’s best takes on this wheat beer spinoff. The nose swirls with apricot, melon and light citrus giving way to a bubbly, prickly hop sip on a light but creamy, mouth-filling body with a firmly bitter finale. (CL)
NINE LOCKS BREWING CO CREAM ALE, NOVA SCOTIA ($3.94/473 ML)
LAST BEST BREWING THERE WILL BE PORTER, ALBERTA ($7.75/530 ML)
Nine Locks in Dartmouth was dreamt up by 2 cousins around a late-night campfire, and a desire to bring more local craft beer to the provincial market. Their cream ale is balanced between spicy hops and sweet grain, with a light, refreshing body. Aromas of grassy hops and light apple, followed by herbal hops, light honey and crispex cracker on the tongue. An all-around wellmade cream ale. (CL) 64 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
Aussie expat Phil Brian is nurturing Alberta’s craft beer scene by bringing lively ales and new brewing techniques to the province as operations manager at four brewpubs in the province. At Calgary’s Last Best, he plays with new ingredients, like lupulin powder, in his one-offs, and turns out a solid lineup of staple brews. The Porter is trim-bodied with notes of medium-roast coffee, cacao and whispers of toffee. (CL)
FLYING MONKEYS JUICY ASS IPA, ONTARIO ($3.05/473 ML)
This New England–style IPA crafted by Barrie’s eclectic Flying Monkeys took home gold at the Ontario Brewing Awards this year. Pouring a hazy peach hue with a lasting mousse-like head, aromas of pine, pineapple and pink grapefruit flesh burst out to the nose and carry through to the sip that balances baguette-like sweetness with plenty of judicious citrusy hops before cresting to a long, bitter ending of grapefruit pith. (CL)
BRASSERIE DIEU DU CIEL P’TIT BLANC WHEAT BEER, QUÉBEC ($4.95)
Pale yellow, slightly hazy. Very fruity nose of lime, juniper and hops (lime and juniper berries were added to the brew). Quite acidic (think lemonade), light taste; extremely refreshing with noticeable bitterness in the finish. (GBQc)
BRASSERIE VROODEN GOSE SOUR BEER, QUÉBEC ($5.99/500 ML)
The name refers to the German town famous for its sour beer. Bright pale yellow. Fresh nose of citrus and herbs with delicate notes of hops. Very light on the palate, not so sour, extra refreshing and low in bitterness. Easy drinking. (GBQc)
MICROBRASSERIE LA CHOUAPE EVERYDAY IPA SESSION, QUÉBEC ($5.59/500 ML)
Pale, hazy yellow, little foam. Fresh hops and coriander along with citrus notes of lemon and lime. Very light and thirst-quenching, its 3.8% ABV contributes to its gulping character. Perfect on a warm day. (GBQc)
NORTH BREWING COMPANY GUS 65M BELGIAN BLONDE, NOVA SCOTIA ($6.49/650 ML)
Gold/straw-coloured, this is a Session beer, moderate in alcohol and refreshingly light but with plenty of flavour. You will find citrus, spicy notes and a smooth wheat finish accented by a touch of hoppy bitterness. Lovely with a mustard drenched rabbit stew. (SW).
UNCLE LEO’S BREWERY CEILIDH ALE KOLSCH, NOVA SCOTIA ($4.15/473 ML)
Pale gold colour with mild citrus and light malty aromas carrying through on the palate, with refreshingly light creamy malt and moderate bitter hoppiness. (SW)
2 CROWS BREWING CO POLLYANNA WILD NORTHEAST IPA, NOVA SCOTIA ($4.49/473 ML)
Shows hazy amber colour with strong astringent hop aromas, shifting to full-flavoured dried fruity malt in the mouth. Finishes with nutty, dry, hoppy bitterness and lingering fruity character. (SW)
HELL BAY BREWING CO OATMEAL PALE ALE, NOVA SCOTIA ($4.49/500 ML)
Thick, creamy head and gold/amber in the glass, showing mild malty, floral citrus and subtle herbal scents. Mild sweet citrus and nutty flavours are enveloped in a creamy texture with a hit of bitterness. (SW)
NORTH BREWING COMPANY PRIORITY PALE ALE, NOVA SCOTIA ($6.49/650 ML)
Hazy blond appearance with herbal hoppy and citrus aromas. Crisp citrus, malty and pronounced hoppy bitterness on the smooth, creamy finish. (SW)
BRETON BREWING COMPANY STIRLING HEFEWEIZEN, NOVA SCOTIA ($3.99/473 ML)
Typical hazy blonde with aromatic banana, lightly sour yeasty aromas and a slight whiff of spice. Smooth, creamy and pleasantly refreshing, with mild malty and lightly bitter flavours in the mouth. (SW)
BRETON BREWING COMPANY SONS OF HECTOR BROWN ALE, NOVA SCOTIA ($3.99/473 ML)
Shows reddish brown colour, with a persistent head. Mild nutty and fruity aromas. Moderately roasted and fruity sweet malty flavours yield to mild bitter bite on the finish. (SW)
WEST AVENUE CIDER BLEUET SAUVAGE 2014, ONTARIO ($15)
This is a tequila barrel-fermented cider with wild blueberry and a sour edge from a dose of lactobacillus. It shows notes of wild blueberry, tangy rhubarb, mulled apples, cloves and ginger. Just a riot of flavours on the palate — blueberries, apples, spice and sour funk that’s smooth and fresh on the finish. (RV)
WEST AVENUE CIDER CHERRIOSITY, ONTARIO ($20/GROWLER)
This is a blend of Ontario apples and Niagara Montmorency cherries. It’s bright, refreshing and slightly off-dry to punctuate those lovely ripe cherry flavours. Look for a perfect marriage of apple and cherry that’s lively and popping on the palate. (RV)
WEST AVENUE CIDER MALUS LUPULUS, ONTARIO ($22/GROWLER)
A dry hopped Heritage apple cider finished unfiltered. Hops and spruce needles mingle with apple and citrus rind on the nose. It has grassy notes on the palate to go with citrus, apple and hops with a fresh, dry finish. (RV)
NOGGINS CORNER FARM VINTAGE APPLE CIDER, NOVA SCOTIA ($11)
Bright, clear yellow-gold colour, with lively spritz and deeply scented ripe, spicy apple scents leading into crisply dry apple bite in the mouth. Finishes with a touch of balancing sweetness. (SW)
SAKE TSUKASABOTAN YAMAYUZU SHIBORI SAKE, JAPAN ($25/720 ML)
And now for something completely (and deliciously) different: flavoured sake. Infused with yuzu (an Asian citrus) juice and coming in at a modest 8% ABV, this is really refreshing stuff. Fresh tropical fruit and citrus (grapefruit/lemon) aromas lead to crisp and pleasantly tart flavours suggesting pink grapefruit and mango. (TS)
KUHEIJI EAU DU DÉSIR, JAPAN ($57/720 ML)
Vintage sake is not all that common, but they do exist and serve to showcase the differences in rice harvest years. Kuheiji is a cult brewery from Aichi prefecture spearheading the “next generation” of toji (brewmasters). This is an intense sake with vibrant aromas of ripe citrus fruit, herbs and fennel. There’s a delicate sweetness balanced by lively acidity and solid core of citrus/tropical fruit. Quite complex, and a great companion to the pan-seared Wagu beef and sea salt. (TS)
SPIRITS DOMAINES HINE BONNEUIL COGNAC LIMITED EDITION 2006, FRANCE ($160)
The 2nd release of Hine’s single-estate (Grande Champagne) Cognac, the 2006 Bonneuil is a very inviting, fruit-forward number with aromas redolent of dried apricot, sultana, baking spice-laced apple, vanilla bean and some sweet oak overtones. Warm and mildly spicy with nuances of apricot and subdued tropical notes, with cedar and floral nuances. Extremely well-balanced, with just a kiss of ground pepper end notes. (TS)
CANOPÉE GIN FORESTIER, QUEBEC ($35)
Like taking a deep breath in a Québécois forest. Citrus fruit with pin notes on the nose followed by a light smokey, grapefruit/juniper palate (you’d think they wouldn’t work together but you’d be wrong). (JS)
CHÂTEAU DE COGNAC COGNAC D’USSÉ VSOP, FRANCE ($120)
Very fragrant and intense, with a nice blend of fruitcake, toasted/caramelized nuts, orange zest, toffee and dried flowers. Very supple and rich in style, with layers of candied citrus fruit (orange-flavoured milk chocolate comes to mind), cinnamon and toasted nuts. The long, warm finish is given added complexity by traces of buckwheat honey and subtle orange/ lemon zest suggestions. (TS) OCTOBER 2017 × QUENCH.ME × 65
AFTER TASTE BY TONY ASPLER
THE WINE COP ALEX EBERSPAECHER, MY FRIEND AND FELLOW WINE SCRIBE, PASSED AWAY IN MAY. He was known
as “the Wine Cop.” I knew him as a wine writer but he was also a member of the Metro Toronto Police Force for 28 years. He once turned up at one of our Wine Writers’ Circle tastings in uniform — complete with side arm. Alex was a great storyteller, evidenced by his book Vino Veritas “In Wine the Truth”: Adventures of a Travelling Wine Writer. In 1980 he recounted to me this anecdote, which he had witnessed. In 1965, a group of 20 French officers from the International Police Association were visiting Toronto. While being shown around a local station they were much intrigued by a large cell area known as the “drunk tank.” Through an interpreter they asked why there were so many men inside. The station sergeant replied that they had been incarcerated because they had been found inebriated in a public place. The French police went into a huddle and asked the interpreter to inform their host that they thought it was a terrible thing to lock people up for drinking. As they left the area, they passed the liquor cabinet where all the confiscated booze was kept. One of the French policemen grabbed a bottle of 75-cent Ontario wine and took a swig. He handed the bottle around to his compatriots who immediately proceeded to huddle again. After an animated discussion, they instructed the interpreter to pass on the message: “Anyone who drinks this stuff ought to be locked up.” In those days, apart from a few wines made from hybrid grapes, Canadian wines were virtually all “sherries” and “ports,” sweet as candy and highly alcoholic. They attracted the trade of people 66 × @QUENCH_MAG × MAVERICK CHEFS 2017
who did most of their social drinking in doorways, out of brown paper decanters. These products were known as “block & tackle wines” — you drank one, you walked a block and you could tackle anyone. I recall my first taste of Canadian wine. It was at a Canada Day lunch in 1975 at Macdonald House in London. I was seated next to a British diplomat. When it came time for the loyal toast to the Queen, we were served Chateau-Gai “Champagne.” I asked my lunch companion what he thought of the wine. “Fine, dear boy,” he replied, “for launching enemy submarines.” In the late 1960s, the table wine boom happened and the nation’s wineries switched gears to satisfy the taste for drier, less heady products. Since those days, the local wine industry — in British Columbia, Ontario, Quebec and Nova Scotia — has made monumental strides in crafting wines from the noble grapes of Europe to compete with the rest of the world without a blush. And that goes beyond Icewine.
In April of this year, I was chairing the Canadian panel at the Decanter World Wine Awards in London. This week-long competition — the largest in the world — received 17,429 entries from 58 countries. These wines were judged by 219 wine professionals from all over the world. Canadian wineries entered 281 wines of which 12 won gold medals, five won silver and 111 won bronze. An Adamo Riesling 2016 from Ontario won a Platinum Best in Show award as the Best Value Dry Riesling in the competition. (For complete results of the Decanter World Wine Awards see http://www.decanter. com/wine-news/decanter-world-wineawards-2017-results-revealed-369585/) I’m sure Alex Eberspaecher would have been pleased by this result as he was born in Heilbronn, Germany, and grew up during the war surrounded by Riesling vineyards. His first job when he emigrated to Canada was as a game warden. I guess he became a poacher when he became a wine writer. × ILLUSTRATION: FRANCESCO GALLÉ, WWW.FRANCESCOGALLE.COM
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