Please enjoy responsibly.
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E ’ S D I N N E R. R E H T
with friends. JACKSON TRIGGS SAME AS P 5 JULY 2014 T H E R E ’S DI N N E R
AND THEN
there’ s dinner WITH
J AC K S O N - T R I G G S R E S E RV E VQA Award winning wines crafted with grapes reserved from select local vineyards.
QUENCH MAGAZINE ... SEPTEMBER 2014 VINEYARD EATS × 22 QUENCH DETAILS SOME OF THE TOP WINERY RESTAURANTS. BY LISA HOEKSTRA VARIETY × 25 LEARN HOW THE OKANAGAN VIEWS THE ART OF ASSEMBLAGE. BY TIM PAWSEY DO SOUTH × 28 OLD WORLD STYLING AND DRONES IN THE HEART OF BUZET. SOUTHERN FRANCE WILL NEVER BE THE SAME. BY TOD STEWART BEING PROMOTED × 31 THE CHANGING FACE OF LANGUEDOC. BY GILLES BOIS
34
INIMITABLE × 34 IMITATION IS THE SINCEREST FORM OF FLATTERY. BUT NOT FOR CHABLIS. BY TOD STEWART DESERTED ... × 39 WHAT IF YOU WERE TRAPPED ON A DESERT ISLAND? WHICH WINE WOULD YOU BRING? BY MICHAEL PINKUS THE DRAPER EFFECT × 42 WE’RE LIVING IN THE SECOND GOLDEN AGE OF COCKTAILS AND IT’S NOT A SHABBY PLACE TO DRINK. BY SARAH PARNIAK HAUTE CUISINE × 44 VIVE LA CUISINE FRANÇAISE! BY ROSEMARY MANTINI WINE RULES! × 47 LETTING THE WINE CHOOSE THE DISH. BY DUNCAN HOLMES
36 DEPARTMENTS ... UMAMI AND ME × 52 LONG BEFORE THE MEDIA BEGAN TOUTING UMAMI AS THE FIFTH TASTE, I SENSED THERE WAS SOME SAVOURY THING GOING ON WITH CERTAIN FOODS. BY NANCY JOHNSON NOTED ... × 54 EXPERTLY-TASTED BUYING GUIDE FOR WINES, BEERS, CIDERS AND SPIRITS FROM AROUND THE WORLD.
DON’T CALL IT A COMEBACK × 64 THE REPORTS OF THE DEATH OF CHENIN BLANC HAVE BEEN GREATLY EXAGGERATED. BY GURVINDER BHATIA MASSIVE UNDERTAKING × 66 GETTING READY TO JUDGE THE DECANTER WORLD WINE AWARDS CAN BE QUITE AN UNDERTAKING. BY TONY ASPLER
SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 3
@quench_mag ... Follow, like and connect with us online. Great food, an abundance of wine and a heated passion for everything puts Italy high in the minds of adventure seeking gourmets. That’s why Quench has published our first cookbook, Quench Cooks Italian, which you can now download for your Kobo or other eReader. Visit kobo.com or quench.creatavist.com/ quenchcooksitalian.
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join us in the conversation
Welcome Quench. We love the new design and columns. We felt the warmth come off the page. Susan and Jean Gagné, email It’s great that you are adding more articles on craft beers. As a wine lover, I am always looking for new things to savour and a light, hoppy number in the heat of the summer is sometimes the best way to cool down. I’m seeing a lot of Beau’s on the shelves but a Mill Street Tankhouse Ale is my top buy. Harry Crazen, North York, Ontario I have to tell you that I am a long term reader of Quench (Tidings) and have seen a lot of changes and iterations. Although I can’t say I was in love with every switch — I want more wine notes — this time around I am very happy to report, you’ve won me over. Gordon Haelms, email Rick VanSickle really nailed the hammer on the head with his piece on the Canadian wine identity. I’m tired of hiding in my wine closet. Give me a BC Riesling or Nova Scotia sparkling anyday. Sheila Wells, Grand Falls, New Brunswick
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THIS IS MY YEAR OF LIVING TO THE FULLEST. I DECIDED IN THE BEGINNING OF 2014 TO NOT DEPRIVE MYSELF OF ANYTHING. Torchons of foie gras as a snack; go for it. Precision headphones from Germany; sure. A dream spin around the track in a Ferrari; done. But when it came to wines I had salivated over for years, I was stuck. What can I do? Or better yet, how do I limit myself ? I can’t throw away the bank on just wine.
4 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
Well, maybe I could but I shouldn’t. So I decided to whittle it down to a couple of wines and throw a soirée for my friends, where we’d taste the wines blind. Trust me, it wasn’t the easiest of decisions to make. Should I focus on New or Old World. My palate is decidedly New World, but I love those chunky, tannic traditional wines. So I created a short list of about 50 wines. I guess that could be considered the long list. I then created a short-short list. Now I was down to 10. From that, I hemmed and hawed. I had to make a choice. So this is what I ended up with: The Ornellaia 2009, Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe 2010, Le Cigare Volant 2008 and the Penfolds RWT 2009. To round it all out, I decided to go back to the wine that started me off on my oenological adventure all those years ago; the Manischewitz, circa 2014. Hey, we all have to start somewhere. Let me know about the bottles you covet the most by commenting at quench.me.
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CONTRIBUTORS ... Tom de Larzac has a true passion for all things food. Whether it be catering friends’ parties or experimenting on dinner guests, the creativity and sheer enjoyment of cooking has never escaped him. Rustic, imaginative and a disregard for proper plating is the best way to describe his cooking style.
When encouraged as a child to “take a bite from the Apple of Life,” contributing editor, Tod Stewart, proceeded to eat the whole thing. He has since committed to a life of excess, living by the motto: “Everything in moderation…including moderation.”
Sarah Parniak is a freelance writer, bartender and consultant with a (healthy) spirits obsession that she channels into a weekly drinks column for Toronto’s NOW Magazine. She’s represented Canada in international bartending competitions and currently works behind the stick at People’s Eatery in Chinatown on weekends. When she’s not working in bars, she’s usually drinking in them. Follow her on Twitter and Instagram @s_parns.
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SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 7
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SAM ADAMS SAME AS PAGE 10 JULY/AUGUST 2014
À LA CARTE Q SCHOOL × 10 DECIPHERING A FRENCH WINE LABEL. GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON × 13 LONG LIVE THE KING OF MUSTARDS. UMAMI BY JOANNE WILL × 15 THE ART OF FERMENTATION WITH SANDOR KATZ. NEXT STOP × 16 A LOOK AT URBAN WINERIES. FEED BY TOM DE LARZAC × 18 CREATING NEW MEMORIES. LAZY MIXOLOGIST BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO × 19 MAKE YOUR DRINK COOL WITH A CUCUMBER. PREP × 20 OUTFITTING YOUR CULINARY LIBRARY. BON VIVANT BY PETER ROCKWELL × 21 WHAT IS A CLONE?
SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 9
Q SCHOOL ...
label hunting Reading a French wine label can be confusing. It’s a mass of words — usually in French — that may hold meaning ... after reading your umpteenth label. To give you an edge when selecting your next Bordeaux, look for these five elements to tell you about what’s in the bottle.
PRODUCER
Usually the first name at the top. There are two types: winemakers who bottle and sell their own wine, and négociants who source and sell wines from different estates.
VINEYARD OR ESTATE
Many larger French producers have several vineyards. This will appear as a second name. In the case of négociants, it’ll be the winemaking estate or château.
REGION/APPELLATION
French wine labels can have multiple “regions” listed. In most cases, the more specific the regions, the better quality the wine. GENERIC: France, Bourgogne (Burgundy), Bordeaux, Loire, Languedoc-Roussillon and so on. The statement “Vin de France” indicates a table wine. Good for beginners or a party, but not to tempt your palate. SPECIFIC: Individual regions where the grapes were harvested. Wines with a generic and specific region are usually classified as IGP (indication géographique protégée). Winemakers can choose this designation for two reasons: the wine is medium quality, or they’ve made it in a style not allowed by appellation restrictions. AOP/AOC/AC DESIGNATION: Strict regulations placed on all stages of wine production. This designation means an expert has decreed the wine to be high quality.
ADDITIONAL PRODUCTION SPECIFICATIONS TO NAME A FEW:
“Mis en boutielle ...”, where the wine was bottled — on the estate (... au château) or off-site (... par ...); “Grand Cru” and “Premier Cru”: the vineyard’s rating. These two specifically are in the top 15 percent, quality-wise; “Recoltés”, made with 100 percent estate-grown grapes; and “Vielles Vignes”, made from 40+-year-old vines.
VARIETAL
To keep up with current labelling trends, more French producers are including the varietal, usually on IGP wines. A single varietal means at least 85 percent of the wine is made with this grape. If two or more appear, the varietals will be listed in descending order of percentages. ×
10 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
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BY S . P E L L E G R I N O
Meet Chef Grant van Gameren, the culinary pioneer and driving force behind Toronto’s Bar Isabel, named as Canada’s Best New Restaurant in 2014. We asked him to reveal his sources for inspiration and ingredients, and tell us what’s on his radar for the future.
SAN PELLIGRINO IN FOLDER
CAPTURE THE ESSENCE O F W H AT ’S H A P P E N I N G IN THE CANADIAN CULINARY SCENE.
Orphans cooking with orphans. In Toronto, the people opening restaurants now are in their late 20s, early 30s who haven’t been slugging it out in a brigade-style kitchen for years like the founding fathers. There’s a generation of us rebellious teenagers just opening up restaurants, hiring our friends and taking risks. Hopefully, these young chefs grow into the leaders of Canada’s modern culinary movement. HOW DO CULINARY T R E N D S I M PA C T YO U R MENU?
I’m too busy to concern myself with trends. Evolution is made, not speculated. If there’s anything I’m into, it’s about finding something new. Maybe not something new to the world, but new to me. That’s my food trend. W H AT I S I N S P I R I N G YO U RIGHT NOW?
Gooseneck barnacles-pre-historiclooking crustacean creatures, super tasty. Only in season for about a month. When I sourced some, I was
so excited that I posted a photo on Instagram. 48 hours later there was an article about how these are the “next new thing.” ASIDE FROM THE F O O D , W H AT M A K E S A G R E AT R E S TA U R A N T EXPERIENCE?
Everything you put on the table matters. The details can dramatically elevate the dining experience—like a good quality napkin, artisanal bread or a bottle of S.Pellegrino. Even the bottle itself is beautiful; it’s like a bottle of wine. Water is the first thing served at the table and the last thing that remains. So it only makes sense that the kind of water you serve is considered. If you think about it, filtered water or tap water—it’s only as good as its source. GIVE US A HINT ABOUT W H AT ’S O N T H E H O R I Z O N F O R YO U ?
I’m excited about a new venture I’m working on inspired by the Pintxo bars of San Sebastian. It’s a completely different way of eating, very social and a new style for Toronto. It’s food-at-your-ownpace that takes traditional tapas to a whole new level.
GRANT VA N GA M E R E N
“E V E RY T H I N G YO U P U T O N T H AT TA B L E M AT T E R S . T H E D E TA I L S C A N D R A M A T I C A L LY E L E VA T E T H E D I N I N G EXPERIENCE, LIKE A GOOD QUALITY NAPKIN, ARTISANAL BREAD OR A BOT TLE OF S.PELLEGRINO.”
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GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON ...
Long live the King A CONDIMENT AT THE TABLE OF KINGS SINCE 1632, Pommery Moutarde de Meaux has earned the
illustrious crown as the la-di-da King of Mustards in my humble kitchen. This French whole-grain brown mustard, created by the Chanoines Monks of Meaux, is neither as hot nor as spicy as some folks suspect. Instead, it is über-savoury and uniquely mellow, with the satisfying crunch of whole mustard seeds. A spoonful stirred into meatloaf or macaroni and cheese can turn those mundane dishes into gourmet fare. Add Moutarde de Meaux to a vinaigrette, an omelette, a sandwich, a hot dog, a dip or a marinade and you will instantly notice a difference. The epicure Brillat-Savarin once said: “If it isn’t Meaux, it isn’t mustard,” which sounds suspiciously like a 2014 ad campaign until we note that Monsieur Brillat-Savarin lived in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Back in the day, long before refrigeration, mustard — and other similar condiments — were created to effectively disguise the less-than-flattering flavour of less-than-fresh meats. Yet, despite that inauspicious beginning, they have endured most admirably over the years, outliving the iceman to occupy our fridge doors as the must-haves of modern cuisine. In 1760, probably ready to retire to the French Riviera, those clever Chanoines monks sold their secret recipe to the industrious Pommery family, who have been churning out their exquisite mustard ever since. Is it expensive? Mais oui! But sold in an earthenware crock with a red wax lid, it will last for at least a year in the fridge, maybe even two — and it will, I assure you, rise to kingly status in your kitchen. Yes, I must admit, you can make the following recipes with any Dijon, honey mustard, wholegrain mustard, horseradish mustard, wasabi or even yellow mustard. Each will add its own flavour profile to delightful effect. But if you have a crock of Pommery Moutarde de Meaux, give it a whirl and see what you think. C’est bon!
ROASTED SALMON WITH MOUTARDE DE MEAUX GLAZE
SERVES 4 Preheat oven to 400˚F. In a small bowl, combine 2 tbsp mayonnaise, 1 tbsp Pommery Moutarde de Meaux, 2 tsp brown sugar and 1 tsp lemon juice. Place 4 salmon fillets on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Season with salt and pepper. Spread mayonnaise/mustard mixture over fillets. Roast 12 to 15 minutes or until cooked through.
POMMERY MOUTARDE DE MEAUX PORK TENDERLOIN
SERVES 4 TO 6 Preheat oven to 450˚F. In a small bowl, mix 2 tbsp of mustard with 1/2 tsp fennel seeds and 2 cloves of minced garlic. Rub over 1 pork tenderloin. On a large plate, mix 1/4 cup Italian-seasoned bread crumbs, 1 tbsp dried parsley, 2 tbsp grated Parmesan cheese, 1/2 tsp dried thyme, 1/2 tsp paprika. Roll pork in bread crumb mixture. Place tenderloin on parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Roast 30 to 40 minutes or until meat thermometer reads 165˚F. Let meat rest 10 minutes. Slice and serve.
HOUSE VINAIGRETTE
In a medium bowl, whisk 1/3 cup of good-quality balsamic vinegar, 1 tbsp each of mustard, salt, pepper and sugar. Whisk in 1 cup extra virgin olive oil. Serve over salad greens. × SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 13
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UMAMI BY JOANNE WILL ...
The Art of Fermentation
Sandor Katz teaching one of his fermentation classes LONG BEFORE SANDOR KATZ,
author of the New York Times bestseller The Art of Fermentation, was practising — or even thinking about — fermentation, he was drawn to the taste. “As a kid growing up in New York City, one of my favourite foods was what we call sour pickles,” Katz states. “I’ve always been drawn to the lactic-acid flavour — one of the key notes of fermentation.” While in his mid-20s, Katz practised a macrobiotic diet, which emphasizes live-culture foods. But it wasn’t until 1993, when he moved to a community in rural Tennessee and began keeping a garden, that he had a practical reason to jump into fermentation. “I discovered that in a garden a whole row of cabbage would be ready at the same time. So I looked in The Joy of Cooking to learn how to make sauerkraut, and that was my gateway into fermentation. Over the course of that year I developed a bit of an obsession and got interested in how to ferment all kinds of things, experimenting a lot and searching for information wherever I could find it. “I was able to do lots of fermentation with people around to eat the things I made and give me feedback. I got a bit of a reputation among my friends and acquaintances for always showing up
with fermented foods. Then I got invited to teach a sauerkraut-making workshop at a local annual event, and that led me to the first ‘zine I wrote in 2001.” The tour for his first book, Wild Fermentation, published 2003, led him to a life of teaching about fermentation. Sauerkraut is not to everyone’s taste, but in the broadest definition, fermented foods and beverages include things we all consume, such as bread, beer, coffee, cheese, cured meats, condiments and anything vinegar-based. Only certain types of fermented foods, however, contain live bacterial culture — which Katz calls the single most profound nutritional benefit. “We’re developing this understanding of how important bacteria are in our bodies, from our ability to effectively digest food and absorb nutrients, to our overall immune functioning. Increasingly there is evidence that our mental health is related to our gut bacteria — yet we all have exposure to chemical compounds that kill bacteria. So people are becoming interested in consciously replenishing that bacteria. “All fermentation processes are manipulating environmental conditions to discourage the growth of certain kinds of organisms — which would just decompose the food into nothing that
anyone would want to eat — and creating an environment that’s hospitable to the kinds of organisms that will make the food more stable for long-term storage, more delicious and more digestible.” Arguably the oldest method of food preservation, fermentation is undergoing a revival — in restaurants and at home. Katz continues to give workshops all over the world, and in the past has visited Ontario, Quebec and BC. “I think it’s really just an aspect of people becoming more interested in the sources of their food. Somewhere around the new millennium people started waking up to the fact that the food from this centralized system of mass production was nutritionally diminished, ecologically destructive and economically devastating. For all of these reasons and more, there’s been a growing interest in knowing where our food comes from, having relationships with farmers and other food producers, and learning how to do stuff ourselves. I think everything — from backyard gardens to farmers’ markets, and community-supported agriculture to people trying their hand at food preservation, baking their own bread and making their own beer — all these things are manifestations of this same broader cultural phenomenon that’s been going on.” × SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 15
NEXT STOP ...
In the City
Part winemaking facilities, part boutiques and part bistros, urban wineries across North America bring a taste of the bucolic to the city. Complete with wine tours, artisanal bottlings, pours from local appellations and even eco-friendly wine on tap, a master class in winemaking is now but a short drive — or walk — away.
VANCOUVER URBAN WINERY
www.vancouverurbanwinery.com The Settlement Building, home to Vancouver Urban Winery, is a vast rustic space with 24-foot ceilings, a stone fireplace and a vintage-style wine shop and lounge. But the main attraction is the wine on tap. Co-owners Mike Macquisten and Steve Thorp bring the Okanagan to the city by way of 36 wine varietals from BC — including their own brand, Roaring Twenties Wine Co., dispensed out of stainless-steel kegs, which keeps the oxygen out, and the libations fresh and flavourful. To be savoured with the delectable fare from in-house eatery The Belgard Kitchen.
BROOKLYN WINERY
www.bkwinery.com In the spirit of sustainable living and DIY that has come to characterize Brooklyn, this urban winery located in Williamsburg is the artisanal winemaking enterprise of Internet-startup-staffers-turned-winery-owners Brian Leventhal and John Stires. Resident winemaker Conor McCormack whips up small batches of wine with some available exclusively on tap at the wine bar, an old-world haunt accented with relics from the past — think WWII ammo boxes for wine racks and 1940s wallpaper. There, patrons can enjoy Riesling, Zinfandel and everything in between with shareable items from executive chef’s David Colston’s eclectic All-American menu. 16 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
ENSO WINERY
www.ensowinery.com While many urban wineries impress with grandiose facilities, Portland’s Enso Winery’s appeal lies in a cozy, homey setup, right down to its lift garage door. In addition to the house brand, Resonate, all manner of Portland wines are available to taste, complemented by bread, cheese and chocolate from neighbouring vendors. A must-try is the Portland Sangria, Enso’s house-made blend of dry rosé wine, Northwest Berry juice and spices served over frozen berries.
REVOLUTION WINES
www.rwwinery.com Much like restaurants that serve up farm-to-table food, this Sacramento winery is all about the goût de terroir. Here, “vineyard-to-table” pours made with local fruit pair well with locally grown produce, as well as local products, including cheese and charcuterie on offer at the midtown winery’s charming bistro. While unassuming in style, Revolution Wines has a wine list and menu rich with flavours and aromas from the world renowned wine region. ×
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SUMER FRESH SAME AS P 13 JULY 2014
FEED BY TOM DE LARZAC ...
first times THE FIRST TIME I VISITED FRANCE I WAS 16. My passion and love of food hadn’t quite developed yet, so I didn’t know what to expect. It was absolutely amazing. I spent a week in southern France with my mom, and since neither of us were very good at planning ahead — or really spoke French — we were in for a week of discovery. I remember the first night clearly. Trying to find a restaurant that was open, after a long flight, wasn’t easy. We stumbled into some outdoor seating area in a fantastic garden — the kind of gardens you would expect everywhere in cinematic Europe. While the scenery was breathtaking, I’ll always remember the food from that night. We had snails, mushrooms and I’m pretty sure rabbit, too. Again, the language barrier didn’t make it easy to know exactly what we were ordering. And finally, we had BREAD. A fresh crusty baguette with butter. So plain and simple, yet I couldn’t stop eating it. The next morning we went straight to a bakery to get more baguettes. That’s where I discovered what a true croissant tastes like. It must have been made with at least a pound of butter, and it was delicious. I ate three, ordered six to go and still had to go back for more that same day. I didn’t keep track of everything I ate, or how much I actually consumed, but to this day I remember how tasty fresh bread can really be. I don’t consider myself a baker by any means, but I enjoy baking fresh breads — the smell and taste takes me back to that tucked-away garden in France.
18 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
EVERYDAY CHEDDAR BISCUITS
2 3/4 cups all-purpose flour 1 tbsp baking powder 1 tsp sugar 1 egg, beaten 3/4 cup milk 1/2 cup butter + 1 tbsp extra 1/2 cup cheddar, grated 1 egg wash (mix egg with a little water) 1. Preheat oven to 450°F. 2. Place an empty large cast-iron skillet in the oven to heat up.
3. Mix all dry ingredients together. Mix egg and
milk separately; set aside. 4. Grate the frozen butter directly into the flour. Rub butter and flour mixture together for 30 seconds (enough to coat the butter in flour). Add cheddar and mix gently to incorporate. 5. Add egg and milk; work the dough to incorporate the ingredients, but do not overmix (the dough should be holding together loosely). 6. Press dough out to about 1-inch thickness (use your hands). Cut out circular biscuits. 7. Take pan out of the oven, add remaining butter and let it melt; quickly place biscuits in pan and brush with egg wash. Return pan to oven. 8. Bake for 15 minutes (do not open the oven.) Serve and enjoy. ×
LAZY MIXOLOGIST BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO ...
Cool as a Cucumber C-U-C-U-M-B-E-R. It’s the very first word I learned
how to spell. If that sounds like a funny choice for a beginner speller, consider that it was my favourite food at the time. And we didn’t have a D-O-G or C-A-T. Although other foods have probably surpassed the cucumber to become my favourites since, I still love ‘em. At the very least, I can safely say it’s my favourite gourd. Though many sophisticated people seem to prefer the long, plastic-wrapped English cuke, I still prefer the juicy field cucumber of my youth — and this time of year is just about last call for fresh, local ones. We all know cucumbers work with some drinks, since it’s a standard garnish on the Pimm’s Cup and some more elaborate Caesars. But I wondered if I could up my cucumber game and find a way to get more of that cool, crisp and refreshing flavour into a cocktail. For advice, I turned to Steve Benson, one of Ottawa’s best-known bartenders, currently in charge of Salt Dining Lounge’s bar program. Benson thinks that cucumbers, which can really “brighten up” a cocktail, should get more airplay than they do. “I get a lot of odd looks and sideways glances when I start a training session and pull out a cucumber,” says Benson. “Young bartenders can’t seem to believe it’s going to work in anything but a salad.” Benson says this is the perfect time of year to savour the last gasp of summer produce. “Cucumbers have a freshness to them that can’t be beat,” he says. “But, unlike the way you’d treat it for a soup, you don’t want to seed it, since so much of that fresh flavour is in that centre almost-jelly bit around the seeds.” Benson advises gently muddling cucumber (you don’t want to crush the seeds) along with gin and lime juice and then straining out the pulp to get the most flavour for a cool cocktail.
CUCUMBER COLLINS
2 3/4 1/2 2 3
fat slices of peeled cucumber oz fresh lime juice oz simple syrup oz Victoria Gin oz Fever-Tree tonic water
Muddle cucumber, lime juice, syrup and gin together. Shake with ice. Strain into tall glass with fresh ice. Top with tonic and garnish with a lime wedge and a salt-and-pepper cucumber spear. ×
× Visit quench.me/search-mixed/ for more drink recipes
SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 19
PREP ...
Outfitting your Culinary Library Pots and pans aren’t the only thing you should have in your kitchen. As with any school of thought, a gourmet lifestyle requires some study, which means you should crack open a few books. Sink your mind’s metaphorical teeth into these tasty tomes you must have in your kitchen library.
LAROUSSE GASTRONOMIQUE
By Prosper Montagné Hardcover, $70 An encyclopedia of gastronomy, this reference book is 1,216 pages of French cuisine, recipes, cooking techniques, terminology, history, biographies and recommendations. The newest edition expands to include recipes and information on global dishes as well as current food legislation, labelling and technology. This is not a cookbook. Instead, it focuses on the ingredients to give you a full understanding of how the recipe works and why it came into being in the first place. As an added bonus, Montagné’s writing is smooth, the sense of comedy surprising and enjoyable, and the information easily absorbed.
MOMOFUKU MILK BAR
By Christina Tosi Hardcover, $25 Desserts are important and deserve just as much creativity and experimentation as the main course, especially if you want to wow your guests with a final punch. Manhattan’s Momofuku Milk Bar is one of the most exciting pastry shops in the country, and Tosi tries to bring that to the page. Featured in this 256-page “cookbook” are whimsical dessert recipes such as the compost cookie, crack pie and cereal milk ice cream. Each recipe is based on one of 10 “mother recipes” and is depicted in one of 100 coloured photos. 20 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
CANADIAN WINERIES
By Tony Aspler Paperback, $20 In this 272-page guide to Canada’s wine industry, Aspler discusses the history of Canada’s four major wine regions — British Columbia, Ontario, Quebec and Nova Scotia/the Atlantic provinces; profiles the best wineries across the country; tells the story of Icewine and Ice Cider, two famous Canadian products; and provides a seasonal guide to touring wineries. Each bit of text is complemented by a captivating image (or three) provided by photographer Jean-François Bergeron. This tour of Canada lets you meet the men and women behind the wine and visit each estate from the comfort of your own home. It will give you a better understanding of how our country’s wine industry has expanded in the last decade.
THE DEVIL IN THE KITCHEN
By Marco Pierre White Paperback, $14 The first celebrity chef. The enfant terrible of the UK restaurant scene. The godfather of modern cooking. These are just a few of the monikers given to Marco Pierre White. If you enjoy a good autobiography, or even if you don’t, this one will keep you on your seat and salivating for more. Read about London’s greatest restaurant, meet the man who made TV chef competitions popular and find out how a passion for culinary art can get you through just about anything. ×
BON VIVANT BY PETER ROCKWELL ...
What is a clone? If only viticulture was as easy to explain as Star Wars. Much of the plot of those anemic prequel movies was centred on what we typically think of as cloning. A living thing (bad-guy Jango Fett) offers up some DNA so that a bunch of weird, tall aliens could create thousands of cookie-cutter soldiers for the Republic’s army in their laboratory far, far away. Actually, grape viticulture cloning isn’t as elaborate, nor does it follow the sci-fi model of how a clone is produced. When it comes to vines, a clone is a cutting from a parent (appropriately called the mother) that is either planted in the ground or grafted onto rootstock to create a separate vine with the same personality. Why would a winemaker want to do that? Well, not every vine grows the same. Some are stronger, produce more and/or better berries or fend off disease with more gusto. A winemaker might wish to have a vineyard of vines with some or all of those traits, so he finds a knife and gets his clone on. Now, don’t think cloning is only reserved for very special grape vines. Many of the wine world’s most famous fruit has a doppelgänger or two or more growing somewhere out there. Pinot Noir is one of the most prolifically cloned. France alone recognizes over four dozen versions of the hundreds in the ground internationally. Sangiovese and Chardonnay are two others with clones aplenty. The thing to remember is that we’re not talking Star Wars or Invasion of the Grape Snatchers here. Vine cloning isn’t a mad science; it’s a standard practice that’s been around, well, as long as grapes.
pointed to find out that there isn’t that much difference when you compare whites with whites and reds with reds. Style and winemaking philosophy dictate the amount of booze in the bottle, with white wines averaging between 8 and 12 percent and reds 12.5 to 14 percent. It’s nowhere near enough of a gap to use alcohol as a barometer for buying. After all, winemaking is all about balance and the way fruit, wood (from aging), acids, tannins (in reds) and alcohol all come together to create something enjoyable to swallow. Too much of any of them will just leave a bad taste in your mouth. There was a trend a few years ago that saw wineries pushing the envelope on how high a wine’s alcohol level could go and still allow the juice to be choked down. Some wine critics liked the palate-pounding impression a heavy red (that clocked in around 16 percent) delivered, and that put pressure on the industry to follow suit or fear a bad review. While critics may have thought of them as “better,” consumers found them off-putting and things eventually went back to normal. Again, it’s all about the balance, not the booze. ×
ILLUSTRATION: MATT DALEY/SHINYPLIERS.COM
Does the alcohol content of a wine give any indication of its overall quality?
When I was in university I had a friend who insisted cheap fortified wine was the cat’s meow because it was (A) cheap and (B) about five percent higher in alcohol than any other wine he could find. I’m not sure what he’s doing now, but I’m betting the fact I don’t really care all that much has a lot to do with his perception of what constitutes a beverage of “quality.” Just like a pretty label doesn’t mean a wine is worth pouring, a more potent potable will not shine any brighter in your glass. Fortified junk aside, frugal (used here loosely) drinkers like my old school chum, who insist on shopping for “best bang for the buck” wines, will be disap-
× Ask your questions at bonvivant@quench.me
SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 21
Vineyard eats by Lisa Hoekstra September is the start of vendanges. Winemakers across the country are in the fields, testing the grapes and preparing for the full-on harvest. This is probably the most interesting time of the year to visit a winery. And experiencing harvest firsthand from the comfort of a winery’s restaurant, where you can watch the action as you enjoy a scrumptious meal, is key. We’ve asked Quench contributors Rick VanSickle, Tony Aspler, Sean Wood, Tim Pawsey and Gurvinder Bhatia to suggest a few of their favourite winery restaurants. Just bring your appetite.
BRITISH COLUMBIA
TINHORN ESTATES - MIRADORO RESTAURANT 537 TINHORN CREEK ROAD, OLIVER WWW.TINHORN.COM/RESTAURANT
Almost all of the experts consulted included Miradoro as their number one pick. That makes this a must-visit stop. Located in the south of the Okanagan Valley, the dining room boasts a commanding view of the valley’s Golden Mile. “I once ate three consecutive meals here,” says VanSickle, “lunch, dinner and lunch, from three different tables all equally with stunning views on the wrap-around outdoor patio.” Aspler raves about the view as well: “Our table on the balcony gave us a magnificent view over the valley, towards The Golden Mile and Black Sage Road.” But the view alone isn’t the only thing that draws attention; the food is touted to be equally as amazing. “[Executive Chef ] Jeff Van Geest, one of BC’s most celebrated chefs, focuses his culinary talents entirely on locally procured foods from sustainable producer partners,” says VanSickle. Aspler mentions that “[Restaurateur] Chef Manuel Ferreira, owner of Le Gavroche in Vancouver, prepares some of the best food in the country.”
QUAILS’ GATE - OLD VINES RESTAURANT 3303 BOUCHERIE ROAD, WEST KELOWNA, OKANAGAN VALLEY WWW.QUAILSGATE.COM/RESTAURANT
Unlike the other two Okanagan restaurants on this list, Old Vines is open all year ‘round. “Quails’ Gate was among the first to create the humble genesis of what’s evolved into a year-round destination,” says Pawsey. “The food is stunning, locally sourced and simply, beautifully prepared. And the setting is gorgeous,” says Bhatia. Located on the slopes of the Boucherie Mountain Bench, the view completes your tour of the Okanagan Valley. “The Okanagan boasts no shortage of vista-kissed dining opportunities,” states Pawsey, “but few combine lake and vineyard views, great tastes and sophisticated service as this.” That service Pawsey speaks of is managed by Chef Roger Sleiman. Working with Executive Sous Chef Andrea Callan, Sleiman prepares gourmet fare with suggested pairings. “Add in smart pairings and sound local sourcing … — plus a polished adjacent hospitality centre — and it’s easy to see why Quails’ Gate has emerged as the go-to North Okanagan room,” says Pawsey. 22 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
MISSION HILL FAMILY ESTATE TERRACE RESTAURANT 1730 MISSION HILL ROAD, WEST KELOWNA, OKANAGAN VALLEY WWW.MISSIONHILLWINERY.COM
Suggested to us by Wood, this outdoor restaurant features a seasonal menu of wine country fare that complements their wines. “My other great Canadian top pick is the whole culinary package at Mission Hill,” says Wood. “[It] has rightly been called ‘a temple to wine and gastronomy.’” The view from the dining area is nothing to scoff at either — rows and rows of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay will enchant you as you enjoy the fare that made Travel + Leisure magazine call them “one of the top five winery restaurants in the world” and “the centerpiece of the Canadian wine tourism industry.” The menu is created from local products grown on nearby farms and each dish comes with two wine pairing suggestions.
SASKATCHEWAN
CYPRESS HILLS VINEYARD & WINERY BISTRO HWY 271, MAPLE CREEK WWW.CYPRESSHILLSWINERY.COM
The only commercial vineyard on the prairies, Cypress Hills is a quaint working ranch in the southwest corner of Saskatchewan. Their wines are still being discovered by Canadians, though their signature red is intriguing enough to make the trip; a blend of grapes, rhubarb and Saskatchewan sour cherry. The Bistro embodies the essence of the vineyard — a successful “accident” that draws in all who visit. Their gourmet sandwiches, green salads and cheeses are the perfect snack as you sip their original fruit wines.
ONTARIO
CAVE SPRING CELLARS ON THE TWENTY RESTAURANT 3836 MAIN STREET, JORDAN, NIAGARA WWW.INNONTHETWENTY.COM/DINING.HTML
Part of the On the Twenty partnership between Inn On the Twenty and Cave Springs Cellars, this restaurant was founded to help contextualize Niagara wines with regional cuisine. According to Aspler, they’ve attained that goal. “The menu is
Old Vines Chef Roger Sleiman Jeff Van Geest, Executive Chef at Miradoro
Dundee Restaurant
inspired by local produce, beautifully prepared and stylishly served in tranquil surroundings,” says Aspler. “Angelo Pavan’s accompanying Cave Spring wines match the menu perfectly.” It is their ability to remain true to their brand that truly impresses Aspler. He suggests them “for sheer consistency over the years (since 1993).” Since it’s located opposite the Inn On the Twenty, you can make a visit to this restaurant a weekend experience. “This was one of the first high quality winery restaurants in Canada,” says Bhatia. “In my opinion, [it] signalled the coming of age of the Canadian wine industry with respect to hospitality and tourism and the importance of the connection between wine and food and the concepts of local and handcrafted (both the wines and the food).”
PELLER ESTATES 290 JOHN STREET EAST, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE WWW.PELLER.COM
Most Canadian wine aficionados will recognize the Peller Estates label. But a visit to their restaurant will give you a true appreciation for their wines. The restaurant sits in the middle of the winery, where you can relax and stare out at their vineyards as you enjoy the seasonal menus created by Chef Jason Parsons.
Executive Chef Justin Downes from Vineland
Each dish is matched to one of Peller Estates’ wines by winemaker Katie Dickieson. Rated “Extraordinary” by Zagat readers — the highest rating possible — and mentioned in their Top 10 Best Overall Dining Experience and Best Ambience lists, this is a must-visit winery restaurant on your tour.
RAVINE WINERY RESTAURANT 1366 YORK ROAD, SAINT DAVIDS WWW.RAVINEVINEYARD.COM
Located in St David’s Bench, a sub-appellation of Niagara, the 34-acre winery is home to a “self standing restaurant” — they bake bread, raise pigs and grow certified organic vegetables to use in their dishes. Chef/proprietor Paul Harber teamed up with Chef Nathan Young and winemaker Martin Werner to create a menu that is wine focused. Each dish complements the wines of Ravine, with suggested pairings from the vineyard cellar. The ingredients are preserved with “Ravine Pure And Free Preserves” so that their extremely local produce is available throughout the winter (during which the chefs create rustic comfort dishes with these little “drops of summer”). The Ravine Pure And Free Preserves pays homage to the old Lowry Bros Family Canning Factory that operated on their location over 100 years ago. SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 23
VINELAND ESTATES WINERY RESTAURANT 3620 MOYER ROAD, VINELAND, NIAGARA WWW.VINELAND.COM
One of Niagara’s first winery restaurants, Vineland Estates Winery Restaurant offers locally-sourced cuisine prepared by an internationally-trained team led by Executive Chef Justin Downes. The restaurant is situated in a renovated 1845 farmhouse with an outside “terrace” covered by new shade sails.
QUEBEC
L’ORPAILLEUR WINERY LE RESTAURANT DU TIRE-BOUCHON 1086 BRUCE STREET, DUNHAM WWW.TIRE-BOUCHON-ORPAILLEUR.CA
This quaint Quebec vineyard provides a picturesque venue for parties and events, or, if you’re looking to relax, they have a special vine and spa package with the nearby Spa Eastman. Known as one of the first commercial vineyards in Quebec, L’Orpailleur’s Le Restaurant de Tire-Bouchon is the perfect place to rest after you’ve explored the winery — one that embodies all of the characteristics of Quebec’s wine scene.
NOVA SCOTIA
DOMAINE DE GRAND PRÉ LE CAVEAU RESTAURANT 11611 HIGHWAY 1, GRAND PRÉ WWW.GRANDPREWINES.NS.CA/RESTAURANT
Located in the heart of the Annapolis Valley, just outside of Wolfville, Le Caveau Restaurant is a 50 minute drive from Halifax. “Do not overlook Le Caveau … here in Nova Scotia,” says Wood. If you’re looking for an exceptional Nova Scotian dining experience, this is the place to be. Chef Jason Lynch and restaurant manager Beatrice Stutz emphasize regional products in their global cuisine infused menu. Each dish on the menu is matched with one of Domaine de Grand Pré’s wines. Sit on their outdoor terrace during their popular Martini Night, sip on a glass of wine on the pergola or enjoy a fancy meal in the dining room while you enjoy their unique atmosphere.
UNITED STATES
For those of us who are travelling south this September to get away from the ever-colder temperatures, here are a few intriguing wineries that’ll keep your palate begging for more.
BARNARD GRIFFIN WINE BAR AND EATERY 878 TULIP LANE, RICHLAND, WASHINGTON WWW.BARNARDGRIFFIN.COM
On Tulip Lane, there sits three wineries, each with their own individual charm. That being said, Barnard Griffin Wine Bar and Eatery is the best choice. Whether it’s happy hour, a weekend lunch or an evening dinner, the local wines pair well with their bistro dishes (try the little flat bread pizzas for some interesting pairings). Their menu features fresh, local cuisine made in a con24 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
temporary style with Mediterranean flare. Throughout the week, they host fun events like Trivia Tuesday or live music on Friday and Saturday. They even have special tasting events. Their website has a full schedule listing of the events. Barnard Griffin is the only winery in the world to also have an artisan glass studio and gallery on the premises — db Studio & Gallery is full of charming art made from glass and other textiles created by winery co-owner and artist Deborah Barnard.
CHARLES SMITH WINES - FIRST THURSDAY 400 W MOORE ST, WALLA WALLA, WASHINGTON WWW.CHARLESSMITHWINES.COM
First thing to note is that this isn’t a winery restaurant but rather an event that is held in Charles Smith Wines’ Tasting Room. “For a number of years, Charles Smith would run Blues And BBQ,” says Bhatia. “Now it’s First Thursday and they bring in live bands of all sorts, have different food trucks parked outside and serve Charles Smith and K Vintners wines.” This is a unique opportunity to taste the wines from Washington State in an informal and fun atmosphere. “The event was great because it look all the pretence out of wines,” states Bhatia. “[That] made it fun and accessible while still maintaining high quality — exactly what wine is and should be about.”
PONZI VINEYARDS - THE DUNDEE BISTRO 100-A SW SEVENTH STREET, DUNDEE, OREGON WWW.DUNDEEBISTRO.COM
Located right beside the Ponzi Wine Bar, The Dundee Bistro is the perfect stop for a beautiful meal after your tasting tour of the vineyard. Executive Chef Christopher Flanagan crafts a seasonal menu that emphasizes the intriguing characters of local fish, meat and produce. You’ll enjoy your meal and Ponzi wines surrounded by murals designed by Oregon artists and decorative wine bottles. If your taste buds are too saturated to enjoy another glass of wine (hey, it’s possible), Dundee Bistro also offers a selection of Oregon microbrews and direct fair trade, locally roasted coffee.
THE MOUNTAIN WINERY MULTIPLE DINING OPTIONS 14831 PIERCE ROAD, SARATOGA, CALIFORNIA WWW.MOUNTAINWINERY.COM
One thing that makes this place stand out from all of the other great wineries and restaurants in California is the concert venue. Visitors can purchase tickets to the concert itself in the grand amphitheatre or watch from the mountaintop patio. The Chateau Deck offers the elegance of fine dining coupled with an exquisite concert. The Backstage Brasserie on the Winery Deck features California comfort cuisine, inspired by the flavours of Italy; it sits above the amphitheatre and offers a view of the concert and the surrounding vineyards. Michi Sushi in the winery building, an ivy-covered building constructed in 1905, allows you to experience the “new wave” of sushi in an old-style ambience. Plaza Grill, Vineyard Terrace Wine and Martini Bar, and Marketplace Bistro on the Plaza are casual, just-passingthrough options for those who want to see the other vineyards of California before the sun goes down. ×
variety by Tim Pawsey
IT’S A REALITY THAT WHEN IT CAME TO BUYING WINE, for many
years the BC consumer was driven by the supposed lure of single variety. There was an (often misinformed) opinion that the single varietal wine was in some way superior or better than the sum of its blended counterparts. And years of new drinkers being shaped by the New World — from Australia and California — had left a lasting impression. In recent times, however, as palates have evolved to become more sophisticated and the Okanagan continues its course of (still early) exploration, the rise of the blend (both white and red) has been just shy of spectacular. Rare is the winery today that doesn’t make a blend that’s no longer a “what’s leftover cocktail” but in many instances a flagship statement, and sometimes the definition of the house style. BC’s wide array of vinifera, ranging from the University of Geisenheim supervised 1970s plantings of numerous cool climate aromatic grapes to those more recent Burgundian and Bordeaux inspired, afford its winemakers a formidable arsenal from which to draw. Combine with that the ascent of West Coast cuisine, driven by a community of increasingly wine savvy chefs, and it’s no
surprise that the white blend now constitutes one of the province’s largest categories. In particular, a broader range of seafood offerings and a growing market for this cuisine is also driving demand for food friendly whites. The north and central parts of the Okanagan, not to mention new plantings beyond the valley, around Lillooet, Kamloops and Creston, underscores the growth in white varieties in cooler areas. Their overall propensity for earlier ripening, as well as the range in styles, make them ideal blending candidates. One of the first white blends, and to date most successful, Latitude 50 was created in 1990 by Gray Monk founder and Okanagan pioneers George and Trudy Heiss. At the time, explains Heiss, their white wine production (which constituted the bulk of the operation) was made up of a “vast line-up” of Germanic varieties, most of which had arrived under the stewardship of Geisenheim project spearheaded by Dr Becker. His commercial reps suggested the best way to make an unwieldy situation more viable would be to combine some varieties into a larger volume wine that could command a stronger market presence.
Heiss, who still chooses not reveal the precise breakdown of each vintage (although Riesling is the mainstay), says he settled on the name Latitude 50, not only to underscore Gary Monk’s northern location but also as a nod to the celebrated vineyards of Schloss Johannisberg, through which also runs through that latitude. Interestingly, even though Gray Monk was most northerly winery in the valley when the wine was created, that title has been eclipsed considerably over the last 24 years. Another Becker project that turned into a small celebrity, Chenin Blanc has become known as an award winning sparkler made by Road 13. It’s also the major component of Quails’ Gate’s popular white blend — which actually lacks a proprietary name — in which it gets married up with equal parts Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and a splash of Gewürz. Newly arrived Quails’ Gate winemaker Nicki Callaway says the combo is somewhat critical to turning what can be a bit of a ho-hum variety into an interesting sip. She says in some years the grape can sometimes even be hard to ripen, and that the addition of Gewürztraminer in particular adds some heft. But she does admit it makes for “a nice sipper on a hot day.” SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 25
GRAY MONK LATITUDE 50 WHITE 2012 ($13) Tropical notes on top followed by a ripe, fruit forward palate of grapefruit and citrus notes with a touch of spice. A versatile food wine to enjoy with everything from Waldorf salad to pink salmon.
QUAILS’ GATE CHASSELAS, PINOT BLANC, PINOT GRIS 2013 ($19) Chasselas was the first vinifera planted on Quails’ Gate’s estate and it remains a mainstay in this blend: aromas of citrus and pear followed by an easy-sipping, apple- and pear-toned palate in a slightly drier style than before, with good structure and a lengthy, zesty end.
ROAD 13 HONEST JOHN WHITE 2012 ($17) Floral, honey and citrus aromas precede a juicy, well-structured palate of orange and lemon with some honeyed and spice hints. Has mouth-filling acidity and a lengthy end.
BLASTED CHURCH HATFIELD’S FUSE 2012 ($17.99) Likely the BC blend made from the most varieties, a true “cocktail” with usually up to nine grapes. Tropical, apple and peach on the nose with a crisp palate of stone fruit, citrus and grapefruit. Good with seafood, from oysters to pink salmon.
MAVERICK ESTATE ORIGIN 2012 ($15.90) Former Burrowing Owl winemaker Bertus Albertyn displays his deft touch in this unique blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürz, for an intriguing mix of tropical, grassy, floral and citrus notes in bright acidity.
MOON CURSER AFRAID OF THE DARK 2013 ($21.90) Roussanne, Viognier and Marsanne yield intense aromas of citrus, peach and stone fruit before a nuanced apricot- and lemon-toned palate and a clean and lingering close.
YOUNG & WISE AMBER 2013 ($18.90) Blend of Viognier 43%, Pinot Gris 37% and Gewürz 20% offers a playful dance of rose petal tinged aromas and a citrus-toned palate with a streak of minerality wrapped in bright acidity.
ARROWLEAF CELLARS FIRST CRUSH WHITE 2013 ($15) Well-balanced, aromatic blend of Bacchus, Gewürztraminer, Auxerrois and Pinot Gris offers aromas of citrus and orchard fruit with juicy acidity on the off-dry palate, good mouthfeel and a clean finish.
GEHRINGER BROTHERS GEWRUZTRAMINER SCHOENBERGER 2013 ($15.99) The Gew lends body and the Schoenberger adds spice in an easy sipping, clean and approachable blend underpinned by good acidity with notes of citrus zest and a crisp finish.
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your wine deserves the very best home 416.285.6604 RosehillWineCellars.com 26 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
BENCH 1775 CHILL 2013 ($16.90) Easy sipping, crisp citrus and stone fruit toned off-dry blend of mainly Pinot Gris, with Chardonnay and smaller amounts of Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Semillon and Gewürz. Sports tropical notes and a hint of mineral in refreshing acidity.
INTRIGUE SOCIAL 2013 ($15) Riesling, Gewürz and Muscat Canelli combines for a food friendly sipper that sports citrus and apple notes up front with a well rounded pear and melon toned palate — all in a “cloud” tagged designed and surprisingly weighty bottle.
Road 13 winemaker JM Bouchard says having access to so many wines can be a real boon. He puts it to good use — arguably with more blends than almost anyone else in the valley. What may not work in one combination can usually be put to good use elsewhere, he suggests. Bouchard uses pressings from more premium sites to enhance his work-aday wines — although his Honest John White usually doesn’t need it, as it has a fair bit of old vine fruit already. Overall, he also doesn’t feel compelled to use every litre of his production and does sell off juice that’s not really needed rather than just “blend it away.” More and more of BC’s winemakers are discovering precisely what different varieties can bring to a blend. “We don’t add grapes just because we have them. Sometimes we sell the juice off.” Another one of BC’s more popular blends, Blasted Church Hatfield’s Fuse has played a role in building the success of wines on tap. In fact, it was arguably the first wine to be kegged for wide distribution by Vancouver Urban Winery’s Fresh Tap process — in part because it’s such an easy drinking blend that makes for laid-back quaffing as well as being a pretty versatile food wine. Sometimes, however, necessity truly is the mother of blended invention. When most of The View’s East Kelowna vineyards were devastated by a huge hailstorm in August 2013, they found some Muller Thurgau from nearby Lakeshore Trail to blend with their surviving Riesling. The result: an easy sipping white, christened (of course!) Hail Mary. What’s the most unusual BC blend? Tough to nail down just one, although the prize for containing the most old vine varieties might just well go to Stoneboat Vineyards — which boasts a goodly number of those now highly regarded original Becker project plantings. Usually going into the mix are: Pinot Blanc, Muller Thurgau, Schonberger, Kerner, Pinot Gris and Viognier. And the wine is known — most appropriately — as “Chorus.” ×
top Newly arrived Quails’ Gate winemaker Nicki Callaway; right JM Bouchard at Road 13; bottom Gray Monk founder and Okanagan pioneer George Heiss
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Do South by Tod Stewart
FOR MOST OF US (OKAY, MOST OF US LIKE ME), THE NOTION OF A “WINE LAKE” CONJURES VISIONS OF SOMETHING FOUND IN XANADU. “Sweetie, the bouillabaisse needs another splash of rosé … and I just drank the last of it!” “No problem, dear, I’ll just go ’round back to the Wine Lake and fetch us another fresh pail. I was meaning to take a splash in the Fountain of Youth anyway, and the Lake isn’t that much further.” “Great. While you’re at it, can you pick me a few $1,000 bills off the Money Tree?” “Sure, it needs pruning anyway. Darn thing’s been dropping bills like crazy. Soon it’ll be attracting tax collectors, accountants, divorce lawyers and other riffraff.” HOWEVER, FOR VINTNERS IN CERTAIN WINE PRODUCING REGIONS OF EUROPE (who live on Earth as opposed to in
my fantasies), the wine lake was a) real b) serious and c) not at all good. Nobody wanted to see it dry up more than the vignerons in the south of France, specifically in the Languedoc-Rousillon region (two distinct areas that are typically spoken of synonymously). In warm areas like this one, grape growing isn’t subject to the same climactic impact facing those more northerly vineyards. Meaning nature serves as less of a vigour-control mechanism. Meaning you can grow a whole lot of grapes and make a whole lot of wine. Way more, in fact, than you can possibly hope to sell. Now, I can already hear you chiming out a (quite reasonable by my standards) solution: “Drink more!” A good call, to be sure. But bear in mind that when we’re talking “overproduction,” we aren’t talking a few extra cases or even skids. It’s a shipload (probably a few hundred or so). After all, it’s a wine lake, not a wine puddle. Fortunately for all concerned, things have turned around. “Production has been reduced to 12 million hectolitres [for the entire region] from 18 million in 2000,” confirms Christine Molines, Marketing Director for the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Languedoc. Though exactly when this happened even she doesn’t know for sure. “It is frankly difficult to give you a precise date for the shift,” she admits, “but for sure [it was] in the 1970s when French consumers changed their habits. [Within] 15 to 20 years the wines [of the region] began to be recognized for their quality and this trend has accelerated every year. The trade has recognized the huge increase in the quality of the region’s wines and now consumers are [finally] aware of the potential of this area. I am very confident that we are just at the beginning [of the quality revolution].” What’s been happening in the south of France has, incidentally, been occurring in other European vineyards, too. Be it other French wine regions, Spain or Italy, zones that used to make 28 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
a whole lot of not-so-good, inexpensive wines, are now making plenty of very good ones. And still at very reasonable prices. With growing international competition, it came down to either buck up or grub up. Those who couldn’t adapt got out. The rest dug in. Change on an epic scale followed. “[The region is] barely recognizable in comparison with even 20 years ago,” says Robert Cripps who, along with his wife, Kim, and Robert’s retired parents, distinguished themselves as being the first non-French owners of a domaine in the Languedoc (the 66 hectare Domaine du Poujol). “When we bought the Domaine in 1994, I was told that there were 400 caves particulaires (private wineries) in the entire Languedoc-Roussillion. In 1998 alone, 400 new ones opened. Many of the cave co-ops have closed and their vineyards ripped up. In 1994, we were one of 14 professional vignerons in our commune; we are now the only ones left. The other 13, who took their fruit to the co-op, retired or left the business when the co-op closed down about 10 years ago. I think (but don’t quote me here) the total vineyard area in the Languedoc has fallen by 30 percent.” Cripps, a Brit by birth who honed his wine chops in California, reports that in the vineyards that survived the “great grubbing up,” big changes have also been afoot. “There has been a transition to much cleaner agricultural practices, often organic. I understand that one third of the AOP Languedoc classified vineyards are either going through the certification process, or have been certified organic. Twenty years ago, weeds were rarely seen in the area’s vineyards, whereas now many spot them, indicating a drastic reduction in the use of herbicides, particularly the more polluting anti-germinatives.” (Note: AOP stands for Appellation d’Origine Protégée; it replaces — or will replace — Appellation d’Origine Contrôlee or AOC). Of course, the wheels of change sometimes roll a bit too far. A desire to become more “international” can mean the loss of local tradition. Continuing to comment on changes in the vineyards, Cripps emphasizes this problem.
× visit quench.me to see tod’s tasting notes for this region
“The varietal makeup has changed, too, although in my opinion this is not always an improvement. Government subventions have been used to encourage the grubbing up of ‘old’ varieties like Carignan and Cinsault in favour of the ubiquitous Syrah, Cabernet and Chardonnay. Ironically this has placed more value on older varieties for small, artisan wineries like us.” Molines confirms that the traditional varieties are indeed regaining ground, with a renewed (and better) understanding of which variety grows best where and which yields result in the best quality fruit. Interestingly enough, one of the things that took Cripps back to the “other side of the pond” in order to realize his vinous dreams (once he realized he actually had some) was his (and his wife’s) passion for Old World wines. Though he had worked with some top-flight Cali producers, including Napa’s Saintsbury, Cripps found the west coast wine scene not really to his liking. “We were both more interested in European-style wines,” he says when explaining why he and his wife chose to trade New World sun for Old. But if Cripps wanted to leave California behind, one French producer sought to take it with him. As Cripps alluded to earlier, planting non-indigenous vines in the south of France is a bit easier than trying to plant them in any other region in the country. Yet there is a big difference between replanting a European variety and importing a va-
riety from, well, California. Those at Domaine L’Arjolle in IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée) Côtes de Thongue found out the hard way. “Louis-Marie Teisserenc, one of the founders of Arjolle, is one of the rare Languedoc winemakers who has travelled to California to view winemaking there,” reveals Geoffroy de La Besnardière, Associate and Sales Manager for this dynamic
and modern Languedoc producer. “While in the Napa Valley, he discovered the quintessential California grape … Zinfandel. He was impressed with how well this grape retained its acidity in Napa’s warm climate.” He was also convinced the variety would thrive in the sunbaked vineyards of the Languedoc. Displaying incredible tenacity (and incredible patience), Teisserence lobbied the French authorities for permission to plant it (“... surmounting the typical difficulties of French administration” is how Arjolle’s website puts it). He finally got his wish. It took six years and he was allowed to grow only a single hectare, but Arjolle is now the producer of France’s only Zinfandel, “Z de L’Arjolle.” Another hectare should soon be fully planted.
Discovering Zinfandel in a southern French vineyard may indeed come as surprise. But the buzz of an Unmanned Aerial Vehicle (aka a UAV, aka a drone) during your leisurely vineyard stroll could be downright unnerving. So if your meandering takes you through vineyards farmed by Les Vignerons de Buzet, you might want to brace for just such a buzzing. To get to these vineyards you’ll first need to drive three hours or so due west, northwest, to a point midway between Toulouse and Bordeaux. Given its AOC status in 1975, the region officially changed its name from Côtes de Buzet to simply Buzet in 1986. Though the region’s heart is planted with Bordeaux varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, etc.), its soul is definitely southern, at least according to Delphine Leuillet, Les Vignerons de Buzet’s Export Area Manager. SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 29
Drones are being used to look for disease and determine which vines are ripe. “The climate in Bordeaux is influenced by the ocean,” she explains. “In Buzet, we are protected by a very big pine forest, which gives us a more continental climate. In fact, Agen, a city in the region, is the hottest in France in the summer.” Having spent 15 years working in the southwest of France, Leuillet is cool with the heat. What particularly attracted her to Buzet was the passion and commitment of the cooperative, an organization that represents 95 percent of the appellation’s vignerons and vineyard area. Lest you envision it as a sleepy little collective of pétanque-playing villageois, keep in mind that this group is utilizing some pretty avant-garde technology, including, of course, the drones. “For the 2013 vintage we worked with Telespazio, a multinational company specializing in satellite technology and drones. For this harvest, we used their drones to determine which parcels of vines were ripe and harvest accordingly. We will also be using the drones to look for any signs of disease and treat these vines individually rather than spraying the whole vineyard.” This sits well with the company’s approach to vineyard management and vinification, a philosophy that strives to be as “hands off ” as possible. And while this course continues to be charted by wineries around the world, Les Vignerons de Buzet has woven it right into the fabric of its corporate strategy. In fact, it was the organization’s commitment to all things sustainable that drew in Leuillet. It has also led to accolades both at home and abroad, including attaining the rare and prestigious AFAQ 26000 “Exemplary” status, and a silver medal from the International Awards of Excellence in Sustainable Winegrowing from the Botanical Research Institute of Texas 30 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
(BRIT). Most recently, the company picked up the Amorim Sustainability Award: Wine” at the Green Awards, sponsored by industry publication, The Drinks Business. Of course, you can have great winemaking practices and, in turn, great wines, as winemakers in the south of France have proven. However, this doesn’t mean that you still won’t have challenges to overcome. Stéphanie Creyssels, the effervescent Area Export Manager for Vignobles Bonfils, a company that controls 23 estates scattered throughout the Languedoc-Rousillon, with a few in Bordeaux, recognizes that the region is producing world-class wine, but that spreading this information around the world has been difficult. “Unlike other countries, we don’t speak with one voice in France when we talk about our wines, and this is an important thing to do especially in this market.” Creyssels says that in Quebec, with a largely French-speaking population, talking about wine-producing regions like Corbières, for example, is not too hard. “In the English-speaking market, however, it’s much more difficult. When we do promotional campaigns for this market, we should be joining together to promote France.” It will be interesting to see how the wines from Bonfils, including its Château Vaugelas Le Prieuré Corbières, fare across Canada. While promotional activities will no doubt help, it is also up to the consumer to take an active role in getting to know the wines from France’s lesser-known regions. Be they traditional appellations like Buzet and Corbières, or those that are still developing, experimenting and emerging, there is a plethora (I’ll refrain from using the word “lake”) of unique wines yet to be tapped into by Canadians. Do so and you’ll be rewarded with wines of exceptional quality and value. ×
BEING PROMOTED by Gilles Bois
THE FRENCH MEDITERRANEAN HARBOURS ONE OF THE LARGEST VINEYARDS IN EXISTENCE.
Midi, South of France, Languedoc, Pays d’Oc and Roussillon are its names, all designating the region that spans more than 200 km — between the Spanish border and Provence. Red wines largely dominate, but all colours are made either in the generic appellations or in the sub-regions of Corbières, Minervois, Faugères, etc. The entire area is very dynamic and over the past years, a number of villages have emerged and now possess their own AOC. Names like La Livinière, Boutenac or Roquebrun have become familiar. A few more villages are just about to be promoted (La Clape, for example) and even more are in the process of preparing to submit their case. The annual Millésimes en Languedoc event and (huge) tasting is a great opportunity for us to identify rising stars. During the sixth edition held last April, I focused my attention on reds from villages that showed enough potential to obtain their own AOC. These names will draw increased attention in the near future. The tasting showcased mostly wines from 2011 and 2012, with a few samples from the promising but not yet completely released 2013s. The wines of La Clape showed beautiful tannins and excellent concentration, a few vegetal notes were perceptible, bringing a welcome freshness to those otherwise generous wines. Bottles from Pézenas were the most powerful of the group, full of fruity extract and oak content, ideal for the amateur of big wines. The Pic StLoup samples varied in style, always good and well balanced. But it was the reds of
Terrasses du Larzac (which has just been given full AOC status) and of Grès de Montpellier that impressed me most for their elegance and drinkability, a pleasant surprise and quite an achievement under such a hot climate.
CHÂTEAU DE L’ENGARRAN 2011, GRÈS DE MONTPELLIER ($17) Expressive nose of rich red fruits and fine oak notes with dark caramel and a balsamic undertone. Tender tannins support a medium- to full-body middle palate. It turns a little warm on the finish but length is very good.
CHÂTEAU DE L’ENGARRAN GRENAT MAJEUR 2011, GRÈS DE MONTPELLIER ($21) This Grenache dominant (80%) blend shows characteristic velvety mouthfeel, a light- to medium-body but tight finish. Pleasant red fruits nose.
VIGNOBLES JEANJEAN MAS DE LUNÈS 2011, GRÈS DE MONTPELLIER ($15) Nose is a bit shy with delicate notes of red fruits and a touch of perfume. Fresh attack leading to a mouth-filling and fruity middle palate. Round finish is quite elegant and lengthy.
CLOS DE L’AMANDAIE AMANDAIE ROUGE 2012, GRÈS DE MONTPELLIER ($14) Fruits are of the black variety with a fresh menthol-like note and liquorice. Full bodied, the slightly coarse tannins are a little astringent on the finish, but the concentration is there to give it some aging potential.
DOMAINE TISSOT LA BANQUIÈRE 2011, GRÈS DE MONTPELLIER ($14) The nose is intriguing: there is freshness, fruity notes and some spicy oak. The fruity taste is so ripe it seems sweet. Medium body and velvety tannins lead to a tight and slightly warm finish.
CHÂTEAU LA SAUVAGEONNE GRAND VIN 2011, TERRASSES DU LARZAC ($35) The château is owned by Gérard Bertrand, a major player in the region. Nose is open with fine herbs, elegant red fruits and soft spices. The tight mouthfeel has a spicy taste and very fine tannins. Finish is well balanced with a good length.
MAS DES CHIMÈRES NUIT GRAVE 2011, TERRASSES DU LARZAC ($14) Red and black fruit nose with a little oak. Nice fresh attack, soft and tight middle palate progressing to a full finish that is slightly warm and astringent.
CHÂTEAU PAUL MAS CLOS DE SAVIGNAC 2012, GRÈS DE MONTPELLIER ($24)
VIGNOBLES GILLES LOUVET DOMAINE MON RÊVE 2012, TERRASSES DU LARZAC ($15)
Expressive nose of bright red fruits and light spices. But it is the spice that takes over in the mouth, dominating the fruit in the voluminous, light-bodied middle palate. Finish is tight and firm with very decent length.
The light nose of red fruits and spicy notes is not without elegance. Medium bodied, the fine texture of velvety tannins is wrapped in fruit. It finishes on the light side, giving the impression that the wine is taking off from the tongue. Quite enjoyable. SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 31
right Château La Sauvageonne’s Gérard-Bertrand; toP Guilhem Dardé, the paysan vigneron of Le Mas des Chimères
LE CLOS DU SERRE 2012, TERRASSES DU LARZAC ($15) Candy sugar and red fruits on the nose. Medium body with a firm backbone of fine tannins. The balanced finish is very nice.
DOMAINE DE L’ARGENTEILLE GARRIC 2012, TERRASSES DU LARZAC ($18) Flowery notes float above light red fruits and well-dosed oak for a very open and seductive nose. Only medium bodied but there is a nice volume in the middle palate. The slightly tannic backbone leads to a firm finish of very good length.
CHÂTEAU DES CRÈS RICARDS OENOTHERA 2012, TERRASSES DU LARZAC ($20) The red fruits notes are a little jammy, oak is quite present but not obtrusive. The voluminous middle palate has decent concentration and slightly firm tannins. Finish is clean, very nice and elegant.
DOMAINE DU CAUSSE D’ARBORAS LA FAILLE 2012, TERRASSES DU LARZAC ($14) Red and black fruits with some oak notes. Soft attack, velvety tannins give a smooth 32 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
texture with a full body that gains in firmness near the finish. A richer and riper interpretation of Terrasses du Larzac in the style of owner Jeanjean.
DOMAINE DE VILLENEUVE CHANT DES ROCHES 2011, PIC ST-LOUP ($24.50) A light vegetal note hangs over black fruits, spices and a good deal of oak. Very soft tannins, velvety mouthfeel, rich and smooth texture. It finishes tight with a very good length.
MAS DES BROUSSES 2012, TERRASSES DU LARZAC ($22) The nice red fruits nose has finesse with its touch of cinnamon candy and soft spices from the oak. Elegant, medium bodied with fine tannins that have a powdery texture. Nice finish too. Great! Drink on its own or along side some braised short ribs.
DOMAINE PUECH-HAUT CLOS DU PIC 2011, PIC ST-LOUP ($58)
Nose has complexity with black fruits, tobacco and oak. Soft attack, nice velvety tannins in a medium-bodied middle palate. Balanced finish. Maybe not quite the wine of your dreams, but still very good. There is some magic in the price though. Will be wonderful with a wild boar stew.
Shame on this producer for a very confusing label. He claims the wine is from Pic St-Loup but this is not mentioned on the bottle ... worse the front label says St-Drézéry in big letters (a designated village) but this is the address of the producer, the wine is not from that village at all! It is good though (albeit expensive) with black fruits, garrigue and oak notes; chewy tannins and good extract. A small acid lift energizes the finish.
CHÂTEAU LASCAUX CARRA 2012, PIC ST-LOUP ($15)
CHÂTEAU DE LANCYRE VIEILLES VIGNES 2012, PIC ST-LOUP ($14)
Fine nose of black fruits, cinnamon and other spices from the oak. Soft on the palate, medium body and tender tannins. Finish is a bit drying but well balanced.
Rich nose of red fruits, kirsch and a fresh menthol-like note. Soft texture but there is a tight backbone of finely grained tannins. Finish is firm. ×
CHEMIN DES RÊVES ABRACADABRA 2012, PIC ST-LOUP ($12.50)
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01 Diane Losfelt and Constance Rérolle both run Château de l’Engarran; 02 Paul Mas has a far reach in Languedoc; 03 Château de Lancyre’s wine grower Régis Valentin; 04 Béatrice and Sebastien Fillon from Le Clos du Serres in Terrasses du Larzac SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 33
Inimitable by Tod Stewart
“Often imitated. Never duplicated
34 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
WHO KNOWS WHO ACTUALLY COINED THIS PHRASE, BUT MARKETING/ADVERTISING TYPES HAVE USED IT SEEMINGLY FOREVER. It kind of bookends that other say-
ing: “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.” The wine produced by the vignerons of Chablis has never been duplicated. The so-called “imitations” could hardly be seen as flattering. Insulting, perhaps, but in no way flattering. The distinctive — and inimitable — Chardonnay-based wines of this demarcated area in the northern reaches of France’s Burgundy region have remained virtually unchanged, stylistically speaking, since the inception of its appellation designation in 1938. With their mouthwatering acidity, flinty, mineral-driven aromatics and crisp, laser-focused flavours, the wines of Chablis are universally regarded as those that represent the grape in its purest, most unadulterated style. Of course, their popularity and prestige has lead to misrepresentation and misappropriation of the name Chablis. Most of the imitators aren’t made from Chardonnay, don’t have much in the way of complexity and finesse, and are produced from valley floor-grown grapes in vineyards thousands of kilometres from France. Fortunately this has become less of an issue these days, partially due to tightened laws and to consumer awareness.
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“Indeed, this is a particular problem in the United States, where ‘Chablis’ came to mean a dry white wine of any origin,” admits Guillaume Michel, owner and sixth generation winemaker at Domaine Louis Michel et Fils. “We have noticed that as consumers have become more discerning and more interested in where their wines come from, this phenomenon is less of an issue. Certainly appellation laws in France … have also helped with this and the fact that the term ‘Chablis’ is now restricted to those wines made from Chardonnay in the designated area of Burgundy helps matters.” So what makes the wines from this region unique to the point where the name itself became ubiquitous with top-quality white wines? Probably not the grape variety used. Chardonnay is the only grape that, by law, is permitted to be planted in the region. So winemaker A has no choice but to use the same grape as winemaker B, winemaker C and so on. And it’s not like there aren’t other supremely complex Chardonnay-based wines to be found both in France and around the world. Nor is it radically different winemaking approaches, as producers in the region tend to use vinification methods not dissimilar from that of their neighbours. The secret, it would seem, is in the soil. Or, more completely, in the terroir, a particularly French term that most Quench readers are familiar with. Basically, terroir amounts to “soil plus.” The plusses include climate (macro and micro), topography, flora, fauna and other elements unique to a particular plot of land. “It is not only a question of the [soil composition], but also the [angle] of the slope, of the climate, of the micro-climate, of the microbial life [in the soil] and numerous other factors,” confirms Jean Paul Durup of Jean Durup Père et Fils, owners of Château de Maligny and Domaine de L’Eglantière. To get an understanding of how important the concept of terroir is in Chablis, consider the following: the entire region is comprised of 5,300 hectares, just slightly smaller than the Bordeaux AOC of Saint Émilion. However, Chablis is divided into four distinct AOCs (Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru, Chablis Grand Cru) and a total of 47 climats (individual sites), which, in turn, may encompass (fully or partially) other vineyard parcels referred to as “lieux-dits.” Forty climats are based in AOC Chablis 1er Cru, the remaining seven in AOC Chablis Grand Cru. SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 35
“The fact that the term ‘Chablis’ is now restricted to those wines made from Chardonnay in the designated area of Burgundy helps matters.”
“These elements also give different nuances from a climat to another one,” Durup continues. “It is possible to obtain completely different wines on plots of land spaced out by 50 meters. It is the magic of Burgundy.” Now, getting a handle on the interplay between Chablis’ AOC regions, its climats and its lieux-dits can leave one in desperate need of a glass or five. For example, the AOC of Chablis 1er Cru actually consists of 79 lieux-dits, which are generally grouped into 40 climats that, for simplicity, are often consolidated into 17 of the best-known climats. So the owner of a particular lieu-dit could sell his wine under the name of the lieudit, under the name of the climat that encompasses a part or all of that lieu-dit, or under the name that reflects both the lieu-dit and the climat as long as certain conditions are met (some of which have to do with typeface sizes … I think). Sure, pour me one, too. And even that attempt to sort things out is, admittedly, a tad too “linear” (which is to say, too simply understood). In reality, the line that differentiates climats from lieux-dits is so blurred that they often become interchangeable. Which is convenient in that it helps make the differences between two things that are (apparently) not the same, similar…. ANYWAY, WHAT THIS REALLY POINTS OUT — OTHER THAN THAT MAYBE THE FRENCH HAVE A PREDILECTION TOWARDS SEMANTICS — IS JUST HOW IMPORTANT THE DISTINCTIVENESS OF EACH SITE MUST BE.
After all, if you’re using the same grapes (vine age, yields and the like being ignored for argument’s sake) and the same vinification techniques, and the wines can actually be tasted and determined to be different, then there must be something unique in dat dar dirt. It is exactly this “something” that the region’s winemakers strive to retain and enhance. “In the case of Domaine Laroche, we have really gone to a more precise and pure expression of each terroir in the wine,” confirms the Domaine’s Thierry Bellicaud. “We are lucky to own vineyard in several crus: that is the magic of Chablis; each cru, each terroir, has its unique personality. Our job is to make it clear in the glass.” 36 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
Guillaume Michel
Indeed, the notion of minerality is what the majority of Chablis producers strive to realize and express. Which is why oak barrels are only rarely seen in the region’s wineries. The soil makeup of Chablis is particularly unique, with the best vineyard sites sitting atop ancient Kimmeridgian beds. The Kimmeridgian is a mass of limestone marl that stretches from England (Kimmeridge is actually a town in Dorset), right down though Champagne, the Loire Valley and Burgundy, and which also sports a high percentage of fossilized oyster shells. It is the distinctive nature of the soil’s contribution to the quality of the wine that has made the expansion of the vineyards of Chablis — particularly since the 1970s — somewhat controversial. Some see this as a good thing (more vineyards = more good wine). Others are not so enamored. “The expansion of the AOC can only mean that wine is being produced on soil that is not perfectly suited to the production of high quality Chablis,” concludes Michel. “The expansion of the AOC is harmful because it runs the risk of diluting the typical Chablis aromas and flavours. And the very best terroirs are, I believe, the traditional ones, those that were already being cultivated one thousand years ago.” Bellicaud is a tad more pragmatic. “As long as the quality improves, I don’t think that the expansion is a problem,” and Durup is all for it.
A tasting of the wines of Chablis is a study in subtlety. Almost all these wines shared certain things in common; most obviously, a lack of any discernible oak, moderate alcohol levels and a razor-edged, mineral-driven fruit core. Think of a single concerto played by different players on a number of different pianos. DOMAINE LOUIS MOREAU CHABLIS DOMAINE DE BIÉVILLE 2013 ($35) The Moreau family settled in Chablis in 1814 and currently owns vineyards. Today, it produces wines representing all regions in Chablis, including the prestigious monopoly Chablis Grand Crus Clos de Hospices dans le Clos. The 65 hectares planted at Domaine de Biéville enjoy a beneficial south/southwest exposure. Very intense and fragrant on the nose with a layer of almost tropical fruit nestled in with typical minerality. Quite rich in the mouth, with ripe pear, white peach and a hint of flint.
JEAN DURUP PERE & FILS CHÂTEAU DE MALIGNY CHABLIS LE CARRÉ DE CÉSAR 2012 ($26) Jean Paul Durup rates the 2012 vintage in Chablis “exceptional.” This wine is vinified from fruit sourced from a particular plot of vines that consistently produce wines that are few notches better than those from surrounding vines. On the nose, Durup’s Carré de César shows slightly floral, peach pit, citrus and, of course, mineral aromas that carry over to the palate, which also shows a pleasant note of baked apple.
DOMAINE LAROCHE CHABLIS SAINT MARTIN 2012 ($23) Pretty much textbook Chablis, showing trademark chalky, wet stone aromas with some white flower, lemon and a hint of brine. Fresh and crisp, with nuances of lemon and mineral. Nicely balanced and about as good an introduction to Chablis as you’re likely to get.
DOMAINE LOUIS MICHEL & FILS CHABLIS 2012 ($26) Like many producers in the region, Louis Michel experimented with wood aging but ultimately abandoned it in favour of “letting the soil speak.” Precise, focused aromas of oyster shell, anise, almond and lemon zest. Lively on the palate, with distinctive smoky/flinty overtones, stone fruit and zesty, mineral-laden acidity.
DOMAINE LOUIS MOREAU CHABLIS 1ER CRU VALLIONS 2012 ($47) You do notice a difference (or at least you should) when moving from AOC Chablis up to the 1er Cru wines. Ideal exposure and soil type (in the case of Vallions, clay and calcareous marls) lead to increased ripeness and overall depth. Gunflint and a whiff of smoke over a bed of crushed seashells on the nose, as well a bare hint of almond extract. Focused and precise on the palate, if still showing a bit of youthful tightness, with ripe apple, mild apricot and a touch of baking spice. Give it a few more years for maximum enjoyment.
DOMAINE LOUIS MOREAU CHABLIS 1ER CRU VALLIONS 2011 ($48) Interesting to see what an additional year in bottle brings to the wine. Even though 2012 is generally considered a “better” vintage, Moreau’s 2011 Vallions has everything found in the 2012; taken up a notch in terms of development. Citrus, mineral and ripe, almost tropical fruit (mango?) aromas with matching flavours enhanced by that characteristic flinty/smokey note and a very long, balanced finish.
DOMAINE LOUIS MOREAU CHABLIS 1ER CRU VAULIGNOT 2011 ($40) “The Chablis 1er Cru Vaulignot is actually spelled Vau-Ligneau [it can be spelled both ways], and is located on the left bank of the Chablis’ Le Serein river, in a long, deep, cooler valley, behind the 1er Cru Côte de Lechet, and 1er Cru Vau de Vey,” says Louis Moreau. “It was one of the last 1er Cru vineyards upgraded from Chablis village status to 1er in 1976.” Moreau owns half of Vaulignot, which is shared among four domains. This wine sported a distinctly sooty (some tasters described is as “ash,” others got spent gunpowder) note along with the usual variations on briny seashell with some hints of almond, vanilla and banana. Mid-weight with traces of fresh herbs, it reveals a touch of exotic fruit on the finish.
DOMAINE JEAN-MARC BROCARD CHABLIS DOMAINE SAINTE CLAIRE 2011 ($25) From a single vineyard with vines averaging 30-years-old and fermented using indigenous yeasts. Intense flint and chalk on the nose with some peach/white flower nuances and mouth-watering acidity. Dry and steely, with a hint of lime and sea spray on the palate followed by a long, briskly refreshing finish.
SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 37
“We are lucky to own vineyard in several crus: that is the magic of Chablis; each cru, each terroir, has its unique personality. Our job is to make it clear in the glass.”
Thierry Bellicaud
Jean-Marc and Julien Brocard
“The area of Chablis has increased its surface during the last forty years and it is a very good thing. First of all, the [additional] volume produced every year in Chablis allows our appellation of Chablis to yield [a higher] quantity of [quality] wine. Secondly, even if there is a general character for the Petit Chablis and the Chablis, there are nuances from a village to another one. [Remember], the vineyards of Chablis are composed of 20 different villages. The Chablis AOC, as well as the Petit Chablis, the 1er Crus and the Grand Crus are not too large given that Chablisien wine growers continue to produce wines of great quality.” But to make balanced, complex wines in vineyards situated on the upper edge of the northern wine belt’s limits, expressive soil is but part of the equation. Vineyard exposure, along with soil composition, is what differentiates the Grand Cru vineyards from the 1er Crus, and those of AOC Chablis from Petit Chablis. What you want, ideally, is a vineyard that has some degree of southern exposure. The seven climats that comprise the 105 or so hectares of AOC Chablis Grand Cru are all situated on sloping vineyards on the eastern side of the river Le Serein, enjoying a southwestern exposure. In recent years, however, environmental changes have increased the amount of heat being distributed to all of the vineyards in Chablis. Though the global change in weather patterns isn’t typically regarded as a good omen, it actually has had some beneficial impact in Chablis according to Louis Moreau, of Domaine Louis Moreau. 38 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
Moreau, who is also the president of l’Union des Grand Crus de Chablis (UGCC) and the Chablis arm of the Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne (BIVB), reports that while the sporadic, heavy downpours the region now experiences have necessitated some intervention to assure vineyards aren’t flooded and soil isn’t washed away, the overall impact has been positive. “The climate has definitely changed,” he maintains, “and this is especially noticeable when it comes to harvest dates.” Moreau notes that 30 or 40 years ago, grapes were being brought in typically starting around October 15th. Today, that day has been moved forward by, in some cases, well over a month. “This has been positive for Chablis,” he explains. “The wines in the past had often been tart, green, austere and, basically, unripe, with too much acid.” The additional heat, he argues, is “a plus for Chablis.” At least for now. One other benefit that went unmentioned is the possibility of more stable pricing not only due to the expansion of the region, but the overall more predictable harvest outcomes. Moreau agrees that in the Canadian market today, finding AOC Chablis selling in the $20 range is not uncommon and that quality levels continue to rise. “There’s no bad wine in Chablis anymore,” Moreau concludes in a tone of voice that is in no way boastful, but simply matter-of-fact. So if your experience with Chablis started and ended with “Chablis” from California, or if the term “white Burgundy” evokes “second mortgage,” or you equate the flavour of Chardonnay with that of new barrel staves, now is probably better than ever to discover, or rediscover, a French classic that eschews brute force in favour of subtlety, elegance and sophistication. ×
At a winemakers dinner, I was once asked what my “desert island wine region” would be. Meaning, if I were trapped or sent to live the rest of my life on a desert island and could have but one region’s wines flown in, which would I choose. Since then, I have asked that same question to others and have received the standard Bordeaux, Champagne and Burgundy. Now I’m known for my love of local, but if I really had to choose, I’m 99.999 percent positive I’d go Rhône (the politician in me likes to leave a little wiggle room). I also qualify this choice by saying I drink more red than white, so this is my red region of choice.
DESERTED by Michael Pinkus
SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 39
left Christophe, Alain and Sebastien Jaume from Lirac’s Domaine Grand Veneur; below Old vines like these can be found everywhere in the Rhône bringing great concentration and complexity THE FACT OF THE MATTER is that Rhône offers a multitude of grape varieties (27 at last count), which translates into a complexity of flavours that range from the soft and subtle red fruits to the behemoth black fruits along with spices and chocolate — plus they’ll age — so whatever I don’t get to right away, I’ll be able to set aside for another time. To me, that’s a win-win situation and equals an area hard to get bored of — the longer the wine sits, the more interesting it becomes. This is not a region I worry about over-aging in my cellar. The complexity is there from the get-go and age can only enhance that. But in choosing this region, the more frugal side of my brain also has a say in the matter … the Rhône offers such fantastic value (even Châteauneuf-du-Pape can show restraint at the register for what you’re getting). Places like Cornas, Rhône-Villages, Rasteau, Gigondas, Plan de Dieu and Vacqueyras, all have the complexity and characteristics I’d be looking for with a price tag that’s affordable to many. And let’s face it, if I’m living on a desert island and have “someone” shipping me wine the rest of my days, the last thing I want to have happen to my generous benefactor is that he runs out of coin to pay for my habit because I’ve decided on fancy French Champagne or pricy Bordeaux or Burgundy wines. After all, if he’s willing to shell out the dough, I’m willing to drink amongst the sand and surf; and I certainly don’t want that tap to dry up any time soon.
DOMAINE LA GUINTRANDY 2012, CÔTES DU RHÔNE ($15.95) Cherry, plum and raspberry, surrounding a core full of white pepper and a touch of mocha, all balanced with good acidity.
DOMAINE LAFOND ROC-EPINE 2011, LIRAC ($18.95) Talk about interesting flavours with complexity: meaty, cola, dark fruit, anise and chocolate all reveal themselves in the glass.
FAMILLE PERRIN 2011 LES SINARDS, CHÂTEAUNEUFDU-PAPE ($34.95) Sometimes it’s the simple things in life we crave: raspberry, cherry, sweet black liquorice, vanilla and spice; all well balanced and truly enjoyable.
DOMAINE LA GUINTRANDY 2009 VIEILLES VIGNES, CAIRANNE ($19.95) Savoury as well as juicy with raspberry and black cherry mixing with some fine herbal and spice notes. I could see this going well with lamb.
CAVE LES COTEAUX DU RHÔNE PANICAUT PLAN DE DIEU, CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES 2012 ($15.95) Extremely juicy and fruity with lovely raspberry and cherry, hints of floral and above all an incredible drinkability factor. A wine to guzzle with glee.
DOMAINE MARTIN 2011 PLAN DE DIEU, CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES ($19.95)
LE GRAVILLA 2011, GIGONDAS ($25.95)
Right next door to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but at half to a third the price, it has all the power and performance: red and black fruit, leather, mocha, good spice and a long finish.
Plenty of chocolate hits the palate like a runaway train. From there it’s dark fruited and delicious, but it’s the chocolate that’ll keep you coming back for more.
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left La Ferme du Monde winemaker Stéphane Vedeau; below Alexandre Favier from Domaine Chante Cigale
PIERRE AMADIEU 2011 LA GRANGELIERE, VACQUEYRAS ($21.95) I like to call this “specifically fruited,” because the fruits are so recognizable, namely raspberry and cassis; they come in one-byone and take up residence on the palate. There’s also a nice cherry visitor and lovely acid kick.
DOMAINE CHANTE CIGALE 2010 TRADITION, CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE ($41.95) Rich and supple with a core that comes off as sweet fruited; don’t be fooled, that’s just the heavy-weight alcohol talking. Don’t operate heavy machinery after a glass.
DOMAINE LES APHILLANTHES 2010 CUVEE LES GALETS PLAN DE DIEU, CÔTES DU RHÔNEVILLAGES ($19.95) Nice smoke to fruit ratio, dark and red berries with plenty of picante spices to keep it honest. A wine to enjoy with BBQ.
LA FERME DU MONT 2010 COTES JUGUNDA, GIGONDAS ($29.95)
DOMAINE FONTAINE DU CLOS 2011 REFLETS DE L’AME, VACQUEYRAS ($20.95)
Nice, complex collaboration of fruit and oak: spiced blackberry, dark cherry, vanilla, currants and subtle spices.
This is a hedonistic pleasure for those with a penchant for penny candy: has a liquid red liquorice centre enrobed in chocolate and covered in blueberries sauce … trust me, it’s amazing.
LES VIGNERONS DE VISAN 2011 VISAN, CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES ($15.95) Robust red fruit and a little chalky mineral that might be a turn off, but stay with it, lovely fruit kicks in to save the day; good value for an everyday sipper.
DOMAINE CROS DE ROMET 2011 CAIRANNE, CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES ($23.95) Fruit is at the forefront here, most notably with raspberry, cherry and plum. You’ll also find hints of chocolate, white pepper and a dash of spices; talk about pretty.
PIERRE AMADIEU 2011 ROMANE MACHOTTE, GIGONDAS ($24.95) Lush, plush and deliciously drinkable; there’s plenty of black and red fruit co-mingling with chocolate, hints of spice and a great lengthy and pleasant finish that lingers.
DOMAINE GRAND VENEUR 2010 CLOS DE SIXTE, LIRAC ($23.95) Lots of dark fruit with spiced and peppered elements to keep everything on an even keel. × SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 41
the Draper effect by Sarah Parniak WE’RE LIVING IN THE SECOND GOLDEN AGE OF COCKTAILS AND IT’S NOT A SHABBY PLACE TO DRINK.
At the height of popularity, the Noble Experiment, the Manhattan, Old Fashioned and Negroni are as much a part of our social lexicon now as when they were first enjoyed over a century ago. Just as James Bond kickstarted the vodka craze with his shaken-not-stirred signature order in the 1960’s, shows like Mad Men and Boardwalk Empire have played a large part in glamourizing cocktail hour and whiskey-forward pick-meups to the masses. But the Draper effect, for all its persuasive pull, certainly isn’t the only thing that’s making us thirsty. Like star-crossed love affairs and sultry jazz, classic cocktails transcend time and tap into tradition. A Manhattan today tastes as it did when it was first mixed for members of the Manhattan Club circa 1870. There’s something supremely comforting about sipping the same dram your great-grandfather meditated over in his man-cave; it’s like legacy in a glass. “What I like about classic cocktails is that no one’s reinventing the wheel. They’re just great drinks that have with-
Shaun Layton
42 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
stood the test of time,” says Dave Mitton, owner of Toronto’s Harbord Room, a prime destination for expertly mixed drinks. Mitton, a major influencer in the city’s cocktail boom over the past five years, notes that the popularity of these classics has become so pervasive that he no longer needs to list them on his menu. Guests freely request Sazeracs and Last Words, and stipulate without prompting that they prefer rye in their Old Fashioned. Consumer knowledge is at an all-time high and bartenders act as an important channel of communication, introducing guests to new flavours via old cocktails. Educated drinkers have most likely spent time across the wood from a charismatic and hospitable bartender who’s done their homework, but the general public’s ravenous obsession with food has contributed significant momentum to the cocktail craze. The rise of the cocktail has paralleled the escalating sophistication of North America’s culinary landscape, observes Shaun Layton, head barman of Vancouver’s L’Abattoir. “Dining has been so elevated that all aspects of the experience are now relevant,” he says.
You wouldn’t serve Blue Nun alongside a finely marbled rib eye or pop Baby Duck with your Russian caviar unless you were deeply committed to irony or attending some morally questionable theme party. We live in an age where options abound and everything’s available for a price, and the informed public holds increasingly high standards. It’s not surprising that we’ve abandoned bar lime and saccharine fishbowls of unnaturally hued sludge for classier pastures. Though today’s mixologists are more creative than ever before, tinkering with homemade vermouths and foraging for esoteric ingredients, any trend can quickly fall prey to overzealousness. It’s important to remember your roots, and many of the best and most experienced drinksmiths consider classics the foundation of their craft. In the cocktail’s heyday around the turn of the 19th century, bartenders were respected professionals and some, like Jerry Thomas, were minor celebrities. Layton notes that classic drinks are part of what’s made bartending a noteworthy vocation again. “The reason we’re all here working these jobs is because of the classics, so
SAZERAC
1 1/2 2 1 2 1
tsp Ricard tsp superfine sugar dashes Peychaud bitters tsp water oz Bourbon twist of lemon peel
Pour Ricard into a glass and swirl around to coat glass, discard any excess. Place the sugar, Peychaud bitters, and water into the glass and muddle with the back of a teaspoon. Almost fill the glass with ice cubes. Pour the bourbon over the ice cubes.
OLD FASHIONED
“The reason that classic cocktails are classic is because of balance; the Manhattan and the Negroni are all examples of perfectly balanced drinks,” says Dave Mitton. we need to respect them. If someone just wants a Manhattan, then give it to them and keep your homemade bitters to yourself,” Layton goes on to note. When it comes to classic drinks, simplicity is a selling point. Some of the most iconic cocktails have no more than three ingredients, allowing quality spirits to shine and flavours to marry rather than muddle. “The reason that classic cocktails are classic is because of balance; the Manhattan and the Negroni are all examples of perfectly balanced drinks,” says Mitton, who sees these recipes as a valuable template for mixology. “Learn the classics, learn why they work and then start playing on your own,” Mitton advises. It’s all a matter of proportion. With so few ingredients, all elements are detectable; there’s no smoke and mirrors to hide behind. There’s an unrivalled sophistication in a carefully executed Martini or Manhattan, and learning the golden ratios (in this case, 2:1 spirit to modifier with a few dashes of bitters) is key.
In our distractive, digitized landscape the seductiveness of simplicity is often overlooked. Taking time to unplug and engage in face time (note: not the app) has become a luxury for which cocktail hour is the best possible excuse; the sputtering engine of traditional socializing is easily revived by sloshing a little lubrication on the ol’ cranks. This may be part of the reason why classic cocktails, easily mixed with a modest booze stash and a basic bar guide, are becoming fixtures of home entertainment much like they were in the 1950s. Fixing your guests a fine Manhattan or a properly shaken Sidecar at home is as much about old-fashioned hospitality as it is about appreciating a well-mixed drink; cocktails have always been a delicious catalyst for camaraderie. The benefits of the cocktail renaissance are myriad, but ultimately classic drinks have plucked us from the blah of the vodka and cream-liqueur soaked 1980s and 1990s and taught us how to taste again. No one’s whining about where to score a solid Old Fashioned these days and that’s a triumph. ×
2 oz Bourbon 2 dashes Angostura bitters 1 splash water 1 tsp sugar 1 maraschino cherry 1 orange wedge
Mix sugar, water and angostura bitters in an old-fashioned glass. Drop in a cherry and an orange wedge. Muddle into a paste using a muddler or the back end of a spoon. Pour in bourbon, fill with ice cubes, and stir.
MANHATTAN 3/4 2 1/2 1 2 or 3 1 1
oz Sweet Vermouth oz blended bourbon dash Angostura bitters ice cubes Maraschino cherry twist of orange peel
Combine the vermouth, whiskey, bitters and ice in a mixing glass. Stir gently, don’t bruise the spirits and cloud the drink. Place the cherry in a chilled cocktail glass and strain the whiskey mixture over the cherry. Rub the cut edge of the orange peel over the rim of the glass and twist it over the drink to release the oils but don’t drop it in. For more classic drink recipes visit www.quench.me/search-mixed/
SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 43
Haute Cuisine Vive la cuisine française! by Rosemary Mantini
OR RATHER, LA CUISINE FRANÇAISE VIVE. The reports of the death of French cuisine are somewhat premature and exaggerated. That bastion of good taste isn’t anywhere near giving up the ghost. In fact, if the chefs I met while researching this article have anything to say about it, classic French cuisine is as modern, influential and delicious as it always was. “Take all the cuisines of the world, the base is (still) French,” says Chef Pascal Geffroy. Those have to be the most potent fighting words ever spoken. But, before pulling out the knives, consider that Geffroy may actually have a point. His statement encompasses not only the similarity of preparation and cooking techniques around the world, but most importantly, the philosophy that is French classical cooking: to accent fresh, quality ingredients until they reveal their essential flavours. There probably isn’t a cuisine around that doesn’t strive to do that. CHEF PASCAL GEFFROY has owned and operated Batifole in Toronto’s Chinatown for about a year (though the restaurant itself has been a magnet for lovers of French food for 10 years). Hailing from Provence, Geffroy brings a Mediterranean flare to the classics that showcase his southern French heritage.
MANCHONS DE CANARD CONFIT ET LENTILLES DU PUY (DUCK WINGS CONFIT WITH DU PUY LENTILS) SERVES 4
120 g du puy lentils 40 g duck fat 4 onions, each cut into 4 large pieces 1 carrot, diced 2 garlic cloves, whole and unpeeled 1 celery branch, chopped Fleur de sel, to taste Sichuan pepper, to taste Flour 1 bouquet garni (1 thyme sprig, 1 parsley sprig) 4 manchons de canard (you can find a recipe for confit of duck wings online and make your own, or you can use the pre-made, store-bought variety) 80 g veal stock 2 tbsp vinegar 1. Rinse and pick over lentils. In a heavy-bottomed casserole or pan, melt the duck fat. Add the onions, carrot, garlic, celery and flour. Pour the lentils into the pot. 44 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
2. Add cold water until just covered. Bring to a boil. Skim off any scum. 3. Add the bouquet garni and cook at a simmer for about 10 minutes, or until al dente. 4. Strain the lentils. Add the veal stock and vinegar. Set aside and keep warm. Season to taste. 5. Reheat manchons de canard according to package directions (if using store-bought). Spoon some lentils onto the serving plate and top with a manchon de canard.
SABLÉ À L’ANIS ET MOUSSELINE DE MARRONS (ANISE-FLAVOURED SAND COOKIES WITH CHESTNUT CREAM) SERVES 8
Sablé à l’anis 150 g butter 90 g icing sugar 30 g almond meal 1 egg 250 g flour 1 tsp ground anise Mousseline de marrons 300 g butter 375 g French custard (pastry cream) 125 g chestnut cream (find it in the jam section) For the sablé: 1. Cream the butter and the icing sugar together; add almond
meal and the egg. Add the sifted flour and ground anise. Stir well. Let rest in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes. 2. Remove from the refrigerator and roll out the dough to 2 to 3 mm thick. Cut dough into 8 cm rounds. Bake at 320˚F for about 15 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool.
For the mousseline marrons:
Whip the butter until pale and light. Add the custard and stir well. Stir in the chestnut cream until well blended.
Assembly:
Place one sablé d’anis on a plate. Using a pastry bag, cover the sablé with the chestnut cream mixture.
CHEF ADRIEN BAILLEUX of Toronto’s 9-month-old La Croisée
French Restaurant originates from Dijon. His vision demands that he and his staff interpret French cuisine in the way that his great-grandmother might have. “I’m very old school,” he admits, spending days slow-cooking his menu’s essential ingredients until they’re perfectly flavoured.
POIRES POCHÉES AU VIN ROUGE (POACHED PEARS IN RED WINE) SERVES 6
6 Williams pears 1 750 ml bottle red wine 240 g sugar (adjustable according to the sweetness of pears) 1 orange, zest only 1 vanilla pod 2 cloves 1 cinnamon stick 1 pinch ground nutmeg 1. Preheat oven to 320°F. 2. Put red wine, sugar, orange zest, vanilla, cloves, cinnamon
and nutmeg in a large saucepan. Bring wine to a boil over high heat, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Remove the saucepan from the heat. 3. Meanwhile, peel pears and remove cores from the bottom. 4. Add pears in the saucepan and cover it with aluminium foil. Place the saucepan in the oven. Keep the pears simmering for approximately 25 minutes, turning pears halfway through the cook time. 5. Allow pears and juice to cool completely, then place them in the refrigerator to chill. 6. Before serving, remove pears from syrup and keep chilled. Reduce syrup over medium heat, then chill the thickened syrup in refrigerator. 7. To serve, cut the pears in half or quarters and pour the syrup over the pears.
Chef’s Note:
×× Prepare the poached pears the day before serving and keep them soaking in the wine syrup overnight.
×× Serve with ice cream or whipped cream. ×× Use a light red wine, like Gamay, to make this recipe. SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 45
BOEUF BOURGUIGNON SERVES 6
2 lbs beef shoulder or chuck, cut in cubes 100 g bacon, chopped 4 carrots, peeled and chopped 2 onions, chopped 1/2 lb mushrooms, cut in quarters 2 stalks celery, chopped 2 750 ml bottles red wine 1 sprig thyme 2 bay leaves 2 clove garlic, chopped 30 small white onions 1/4 cup flour Butter Vegetable oil 1. In a small saucepan, sauté mushrooms with half of the sprig of thyme in butter; add water to cover the mushrooms. Bring to a boil; cover the saucepan and simmer at medium heat. 2. Remove mushroom, put aside. Discard the thyme. Keep mushroom juice. 3. In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, sauté bacon with several drops of vegetable oil. 4. Remove bacon, put aside. Sauté the beef cubes in bacon fat with salt and pepper until they turn brown. Sprinkle the flour on the beef, mix well and cook together for 2 to 3 minutes. 5. Add the chopped onion, carrots, celery, garlic; mix well with beef. Add mushroom juice, and reduce together for 5 minutes. Pour in red wine to cover all the ingredients. 6. Add thyme and bay leaf; cover the saucepan. Simmer for 4 hours at low heat. 7. At the 3 hour and 45 minute mark, add mushrooms, bacon, small onions and simmer for the last 15 minutes. Chef’s Notes:
×× In Burgundy, Boeuf Bourguignon is often served with tagliatelle or mashed potatoes.
×× Prepare the Boeuf Bourguignon the day before you need it. Reheat just before serving.
×× The choice of wine plays a key role in the quality. Remember,
what grows together, goes together. Burgundy red wine is ideal to use when cooking this dish. However, a fruity, rich and slightly spicy wine will also make this tasty dish.
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CHEF EVARISTO DE ANDRADE’S passion and commitment to the best of classic French cuisine comes naturally to him. He grew up in Fontainbleau, just outside of Paris before moving to the south of France with his family. Andrade, who now owns Pain Perdu Bistro in Toronto, is not only an expert chef, but an accomplished artist as well. Adorning the walls of his bistro are canvasses of both figurative and abstract art that Andrade has painted himself. “Cooking and art, for me, are almost the same,” he says, “[except that] art is more relaxing.” Given how much his clients love his take on the French classics, I guess he does need to relax every once in a while.
MOULES MARINIÈRE (MUSSELS MARINARA) SERVES 1 TO 2
1 1 1 1 1
lb mussels tsp shallots, minced tsp garlic, minced tbsp white wine tbsp fish stock
1. Rinse mussels and remove the beards. In a large, high-sided pan or pot, sauté shallots and garlic. 2. Add the white wine and fish stock. Add mussels to the pan. 3. Cover and steam for 5 or 10 minutes, or until mussels have opened. Discard any shells that have not opened.
ESCARGOTS À LA REINE SERVES 1 TO 2
Puff pastry baskets, baked (use store-bought if you prefer) Snails (enough for 1 or 2 people) 1 tsp olive oil 1 tsp shallots, minced 1 tsp garlic, minced 1 tsp parsley, chopped 1 tsp white wine 1 tsp Ricard Pastis 1 tsp butter Spinach leaves Vinaigrette 1. Keep puff pastry baskets warm in the oven. 2. Dress the spinach leaves with an olive oil-based vinai-
grette; set aside. 3. Heat olive oil in a pan. Sauté shallots and garlic until softened. Add wine and Ricard. Stir in snails, cover and cook over low heat for about 2 minutes. 4. Add butter and parsley, and stir until sauce is silky and smooth. Season with salt and pepper. 5. Fill puff pastry basket with some of the escargot. MATCH: Top with some of the spinach salad and serve with a glass of Chablis. ×
wine Rules! by Duncan Holmes Twice a week, my friend Angela - who lives in the southern French village of Léran - can scoot over to the markets in neighbouring Mirepoix or Lavelanet. There she can pick up a kilo of alive, alive-o mussels for three euros. Yum! A bag of shellfish heaven for a bit less than five bucks. Angela knows the guy who harvests the mussels and packs them at three am, on market days, into his van to bring them to market. It doesn’t get any better or fresher than that. On one occasion, Angela picked up a kilo of mussels, knowing that in her wine cave at home she had a bottle of Picpoul de Pinet — son terroir c’est la mer — that would accompany her meal. The Picpoul, we are told, “has a soft, delicate nose, with pleasant hints of acacia and hawthorn blossom, and it neutralizes the salt and iodine in shellfish and other crustaceans.” The wine was there in Angela’s stash. All it needed was the mussels and her market had them. In a twist on the usual pairing of food and wine, the wine chose the food. » SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 47
Cooking the mussels? For Angela, it’s rural French simplicity. Dice some shallots and garlic, toss the mussels into a pan, add a blob of butter and a splash or three of white wine, cook until the mussels open, fancy it up with snips of parsley from the garden, uncork the Picpoul and go for it. A baguette, if you wish, to mop up the luscious juices. Almost always, it has been a gastronomic custom to pair wine with food, and no doubt the custom will continue. We buy the standing rib, the fillets of fresh halibut, the chicken or whatever, and magically we find a wine to make a palatable or better match. It’s a happy dining-table thing when they do. “Wow, this really works!” Doing it the other way — matching the food with the wine already on hand — is an interesting twist. And it can be just as rewarding. I don’t know about your liquor cabinet, but bear with me while I tell you about mine. First of all, it’s not really a liquor cabinet, or a wine cabinet or anything else that might command a fancy name. It’s a small, glass-fronted cupboard between the kitchen and the dining room, where I accumulate wines and bottles of the hard stuff that I felt were interesting and nicely priced as I wandered through liquor stores and assorted duty frees in exotic airports around the world. Like the Milagro tequila from Puerto Vallarta. A classic brand and bottle that for four years has remained unopened. A Pellegrino Marsala, thrust into my suitcase as we departed Gibraltar. A bottle of Cointreau, a Bombay Sapphire and a Tanqueray gin from Charles de Gaulle in Paris. A Smirnoff and Absolut vodka from HLR Heathrow. Then there’s the rest — because the cupboard is too small — that spills out, so to speak, onto the dining-room floor. A 19 Crimes Shiraz that I think came from Sydney; a 2003 Château Roumieu Sauternes, a 2012 Louis Latour Pinot Noir, a 2011 Pouilly-Fuissé Chardonnay and an obligatory Veuve Clicquot champagne, the orange-coloured label of which always says, “buy me, buy me!” (I’ve never figured why I got the Chardonnay. In my real life, I would never pay what I did for this Chardonnay, but when the back label talked of tastes of honeysuckle, limestone and shaved ginger, I couldn’t resist.) 48 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
Bear with me for a moment longer for a 2012 Fat Bastard Shiraz, a 2011 Washington State Mary Hill Columbia Valley red, a 2012 Hardys Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon, a Banrock Station sparkling Shiraz, a trusty Prosecco and two or three Okanagan VQA’s in the back that I can’t immediately reach. It was mussels that got Angela going with the Picpoul. It will be fat Fanny Bay, Vancouver Island oysters that will get me to unwire and pop the cork on the Verve Clicquot. A sparkling reward for their pearly little hearts.
CREAMY DIJON CHICKEN
In my freezer meat corner, chicken breasts invariably dominate. Adapt this one from my book and serve it with a 2011 Pouilly-Fuissé Chardonnay, as I did.
250 g chicken breast (more if you have more people) auce (enough for 4 breasts) S 3 tbsp butter 1 tbsp finely-chopped onions 1 tbsp minced fresh garlic 125 ml dry white wine 1 cup whipping cream 3 tbsp Dijon mustard 3 tbsp finely chopped chives 1. Melt the butter in a frying pan and stir in the onion and garlic. Sauté for 1 minute on high-ish heat. 2. Add the wine, stir and cook for 1 minute. Reduce the heat, add the cream and cook until reduced and thickened. Remove from heat and stir in the mustard. Maintain the sauce at about 140˚F until ready to serve. 3. The chicken breasts can be baked in a 350˚F oven until cooked and golden, but are much better done on the barbecue. Butterfly them if you wish. 4. Ladle on the sauce and sprinkle with chives. Serve with roast potato and vegetables.
OYSTER GRATIN WITH CHAMPAGNE AND CHIVES
SERVES 4 Fresh oysters — for those who are aficionados — are a great beginning for a special dinner, especially when there is champagne in the fridge.
16 oysters, removed from the shell (reserved in their liquor) 1 tsp shallot, chopped 100 ml champagne 4 tsp brunoise of leek/ carrot/fennel 1/2 cup whipping cream 1/2 tsp lemon juice Salt and ground white pepper, to taste 2 tbsp Hollandaise sauce 2 tsp chives 1. Poach the oysters lightly in the cham-
pagne with the chopped shallots and then remove them, set aside. 2. Reduce the champagne cooking liquid over moderate heat by half. Add the brunoise of vegetable and whipping cream, reduce again by half. Season with salt and white pepper. Add a squeeze of lemon juice for freshness. 3. Remove the reduction from the heat. Fold in the Hollandaise sauce and chives. 4. Divide the oysters into 4 soup plates. Spoon the sauce over and then place the plates under the broiler to gratinée. MATCH: Garnish with a sprig of herb and serve with champagne.
crème brûlée Rich, light and delicious. Can it be all three? Certainement. Certainly with a sip of Marsala or the Château Roumieu Sauternes.
1/2 cup milk 2 cups heavy cream 1/2 cup sugar 1 vanilla bean, slit lengthwise 9 room temperature egg yolks, blended with a fork
1. Place the milk, cream, sugar and vanilla bean in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Remove from heat and let bean steep for at least an hour or until the mixture cools to room temperature. Discard bean. 2. Pre-heat the oven to 300˚F. 3. Place a 9 x 13” baking dish in a larger baking pan. Pour enough water into the larger pan to come 3/4 of the way up the sides of the baking dish. 4. Remove the baking dish and place the baking pan with water in the oven to preheat for about 15 minutes. 5. Whisk the egg yolks into the cooled custard mixture. Strain through a fine sieve into the baking dish. 6. Place the dish in the baking pan with water and bake until the custard is set and a knife inserted into the centre comes out dry — about 45 minutes to an hour. 7. Remove the baking dish from the water bath. Cool, cover and refrigerate before serving. SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 49
nachos
This recipe came from a restaurant, and it’s been in my book for many years. I trotted it out because my long-hoarded bottle of Milagro tequila from Puerto Vallarta needed opening. A quick lime and salt lick, followed by a shot of tequila will get you going when the gang comes over for your first party of the fall.
Whole tortillas Monterey Jack cheese Cheddar cheese Sour cream Salsa (see below) Guacamole (see below) Sliced black olives
Salsa Whole peeled tomatoes Peeled white onions Peeled garlic Green baby chillies (Jalapeño peppers) Tabasco Salt Guacamole Avocados Peeled white onion Whole peeled tomato Salsa Salt Lemon juice Salsa:
Drain the tomatoes and place with the onions, garlic and chillies in a blender or through a grinder. Add Tabasco and salt, cover and refrigerate.
Guacamole:
Finely chop peeled onion; roughly chop tomato; peel avocados and reserve the pits, roughly chop pulp, rub avocado with lemon so it retains green colour, keep the pits with pulp as an additional aid to discoloration prevention. In a small bowl, combine onion, tomato, salsa and avocado pits. Season with salt, cover and refrigerate. Shred the cheeses, break up the tortillas and deep fry at 365˚F until crisp. Place chips on dinner plate and cover with cheese, heat in 400˚F oven until cheese melts. Ladle sour cream and guacamole onto chips and spread salsa around chips. Mince olives and spread on nachos. 50 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
rack of lamb
I KNOW IT’S JUST A SIMPLE BODY OF WATER that
squeezes between Britain and France, but being of a certain age, with a brain that was well acquainted with the Second World War, I’ve always looked at the English Channel and its history with certain awe. I’ve crossed the Channel three different ways. On a plunging ferry from Dover to Calais, in a low-altitude plane ride from London Gatwick to Paris Charles de Gaulle, and in a London to Paris train that zipped across the rainy Kent countryside, dived into the darkness of the Chunnel and came up into the green fields of France. As I was putting this food-wine piece together, I tried to remember if food and/ or wine had ever been part of those journeys. Not really. A ferry buffet breakfast that couldn’t decide whether it was French or English. And a bag of oyster and vinegar-flavoured Kent Potato Crisps to munch in the darkness of the Chunnel. No wine air, train or sea.
Being of Australian lineage, it was natural to cozy up to a roast rack of lamb with the 19 Crimes Shiraz Durif that’s been mellowing comfortably in my wine cupboard for the last couple of years. For those of you who may not know the brand, the nineteen crimes that this well-regarded South-Eastern Australian blend recognizes were those that England deemed serious enough to have the offenders ‘transported’ as convicts to far-away Australia — where with others they soon began to build the country. Lamb racks are not inexpensive, but they are certainly tender and delicious. I often serve them with roast vegetables. Kick start potatoes, carrots, onions and something of the squash family for 5 minutes in salted, boiling water. Drain the water, toss with olive oil, and a sprig of mint if you have one, then season and roast for 30 minutes or so in a 350˚F oven. Minted peas will add more colour and flavour.
The rack? Trim the ends of the bones back an inch or so and wrap in foil to prevent burning; the ends will be ‘popsicle’ holders as you dine. Salt and pepper the rack. Remove the vegetables from the oven and increase the heat to 450˚F. Sear the rack in an oiled skillet front and back for a couple of minutes. Remove the rack from the oven and brush with a mixture of Dijon mustard and crushed garlic. Top with sprigs of rosemary. Lower temperature to 400˚F, and continue to roast for another 15 to 20 minutes, along with the vegetables. The rack will be cooked to medium. Remove from oven and let the rack rest covered for 5 minutes, while the vegetables remain in the oven until you’re ready to plate. Carve into individual ribs and serve two per person with the roasted vegetables and minted peas. (This may sound a bit shocking, but one Vancouver-area restaurant gained fame by roasting its lamb racks with a topping of peanut butter. Try it some time. Delicious.) × SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 51
bouquet garni by nancy johnson ...
Umami and Me
Long before the media began touting umami as the fifth taste, I sensed there was some savoury thing going on with certain foods. For instance, a fine aged cheese tastes and feels differently on my palate than, let’s say, a stale bran muffin. Umami, a word borrowed from the Japanese, means something like “savoury taste,” but it’s much more than that. When I think umami, I think roasted, meaty, earthy. Like biting into a perfectly seared steak with dark, sautéed mushrooms, then scooping up a forkful of table-made Caesar salad and washing it all down with a Bloody Caesar, which is thick, briny, spicy, hot, salty and something else ... umami. I taste it on the roof of my mouth and across the back of my tongue, although experts say it also affects the throat. It’s a sensation that harkens back to ancient Roman times when anchovies were cured to create “garum,” an umami-packed condiment similar to Thailand’s fish sauce, China’s soy sauce and England’s Worcestershire sauce. Back in the 1950s, my mother sprinkled every dish — from soup to nuts — with Accent, aka monosodium glutamate, which was purportedly the miracle spice, designed to “enhance flavour.” While MSG fell out of favour as the 1960s hullabalooed into the 1970s, the quest for umami never truly went away. Now it’s the darling of the culinary world. Said to be one of the “next big things,” umami-inspired concoctions are showing up on restaurant menus around the world. These foods, when rushed to a lab and analyzed, contain the combined tastes of glutamate and nucleotides. But let’s face it, science is a drag; I don’t understand what any of that means, and, frankly, all I really care about is umami and me. 52 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
ZIA MARIA’S ANCHOVY CHICKEN
SERVES 4 TO 6 Anchovies have gotten a bad rap. It’s time to give them the respect they deserve as the godfathers of umami. Chicken, by the way, is also an umami star. This is a dish my beloved Aunt Maria always made without telling us it contained anchovies. Secret’s out, Maria!
6 1 4 4 1 3
bone-in chicken thighs tbsp extra virgin olive oil, more as needed shallots, peeled and chopped garlic cloves, peeled and chopped tin anchovies, drained and chopped sprigs fresh rosemary Juice of 1 lemon or 1/4 cup white wine
1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. 2. In a large skillet, sauté chicken in hot olive oil until
browned on all sides. 3. Transfer chicken, skin side up, to a roasting pan and place in oven. 4. Add additional oil to the skillet if needed. Sauté shallots until softened. Add garlic and sauté 1 minute longer or until garlic is softened. Add anchovies and cook, stirring until anchovies melt. 5. Spread the shallot/garlic/anchovy paste on chicken with a spoon. Lay rosemary sprigs over chicken. Drizzle chicken with lemon juice or wine. Roast, uncovered, for 30 minutes or until chicken is cooked through. MATCH: This dish is quite lovely when served with a Soave.
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ACCORDION POTATOES
Believe it or not, potatoes have the amino acids that spell umami. This is one of those fancy, festive dishes that isn’t as hard to make as it looks.
6 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, scrubbed, peeled or unpeeled Extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt, pepper and paprika Melted butter, for serving 1. Preheat oven to 375˚F. 2. Coat a baking pan with cooking spray. Place potatoes on pan.
Make about 7 deep horizontal cuts in each potato, without completely cutting through the potato. It helps to place a butter knife or chopstick on each side of the potato so you don’t cut through. The potato will fan out like a little accordion. 3. Drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and paprika. 4. Roast for about 45 minutes or until tender. Drizzle with melted butter before serving.
BUCATINI WITH PANCETTA
SERVES 4 TO 6 Pork, especially cured pork, has umami. So does Pecorino Romano cheese. You can also count tomatoes in the umami pantheon. All are present in this dish, which is pleasurably enhanced by the thick, chewy bite of bucatini.
8 slices pancetta 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 onion, chopped 1/4 tsp hot pepper flakes Kosher salt 1 large can (796 ml) San Marzano tomatoes, puréed in food processor 1 tsp dried oregano 1 lb bucatini or other thick pasta, cooked according to package directions 1/2 cup grated Pecorino Romano, plus more for serving 1. In a large skillet, sauté pancetta in hot oil until crisp and browned. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate. When cool enough to handle, tear into bite-sized pieces. 2. In same skillet, add onion and pepper flakes. Season with salt. Sauté until onion is softened. Add tomatoes and oregano. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 15 minutes. Add pancetta and heat through. 3. Toss together bucatini, sauce and cheese. Serve with additional cheese. MATCH: This dish calls for a Sangiovese, which stands up well to the pancetta, tomatoes and red pepper flakes.
BURGERS WITH BLUE CHEESE
SERVES 6 TO 8 Beef and blue cheese is one of those umami miracles. Good alone, awesome together. My son got me started on this combo on my birthday, when he served me a perfect filet mignon sprinkled with blue cheese. For a more casual take on the classic, try these burgers on the outdoor grill or indoors on a cast-iron grill pan.
2 1 1
lb lean ground beef tbsp Worcestershire sauce Hamburger buns or rolls, toasted cup crumbled blue cheese Sliced red onion, grilled or sautéed
1. In a large bowl, mix ground beef, Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. Shape into 8 hamburger patties. 2. Grill 3 to 5 minutes per side or until cooked through. 3. Serve on bun, topped with blue cheese and onions. MATCH: A juicy Merlot would be a nice match.
STUFFED BANANA PEPPERS
SERVES 4 This dish is on the appetizer menu of my favourite restaurant, and I tried to duplicate it with excellent results. I use the milder sweet banana pepper, but you can certainly use hot banana or poblano peppers for a pop of heat. Veal makes a more tender stuffing than beef, but feel free to use either or both.
4 1 1/4 1/2 1/3 1 1 1/2 1 1/3 1 1
large banana peppers lb ground veal or lean ground beef lb sweet Italian bulk sausage meat small onion, grated cup Italian-seasoned bread crumbs tbsp dried parsley tsp dried oregano tsp garlic powder egg cup ketchup large can (796 ml) tomato purée or crushed tomatoes cup grated mozzarella cheese
1. Preheat oven to 325˚F. 2. Cut off stem ends of peppers and slice lengthwise, leaving
ends intact. Scrape out seeds. 3. In a large bowl, mix veal, sausage, onion, bread crumbs, parsley, oregano, garlic powder, egg and ketchup. Season with salt and pepper. 4. Arrange in roasting pan. Pour crushed tomatoes over peppers. Bake, covered, for 2 hours. Remove lid and sprinkle with mozzarella. Bake until cheese melts. MATCH: Uncork a spicy Zinfandel. × SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 53
NOTED ... 92 MARIMAR ESTATE MAS CAVALLS PINOT NOIR 2009, SONOMA COAST, UNITED STATES ($42.95) An exceptionally fine Sonoma Pinot. Deep ruby in colour with a rich, spicy nose of black raspberries, smoke and milk chocolate. The fruit is sweet and seductive, beautifully balanced with oak, acidity and mellowing tannins. (TA)
BEAU’S ALL NATURAL BREWING COMPANY NIGHT MÄRZEN, ONTARIO ($4.35/600 ML)
The Oktoberfest lager, or Märzen, was originally brewed in March and then lagered (German for “storage”) in cold caves until fall. Brewed with rich, toasty Munich malts, these malt-bombs are notable for their creamy texture and clean finish. Beau’s version is a soft and full lager with hints of caramel and a floral, grassy hop finish. Bonus: All of Beau’s beers are organic and vegan. (CL)
90 JOIE FARM PINOT BLANC 2013, ST HUBERTUS VINEYARD, OKANAGAN ($22)
Enticingly perfumed, with scents of fresh ripe apple and pear, and very ripe honeyed yellow fruit flavours on the palate, indicating long hang time before harvesting. Well balanced, with good mineral grip and a long, smooth finish. (SW)
54 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
93 BENJAMIN BRIDGE TRADITIONAL METHOD SPARKLING ROSÉ 2010, 100% ESTATE GROWN, GASPEREAU VALLEY, NOVA SCOTIA ($44.79)
91 RENNIE ESTATE WINERY ‘G’ ASSEMBLAGE 2011, NIAGARA ($55) This Amarone-inspired red clocks in with an alcohol level of 16.5%. This was accomplished via the Merlot (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (25%) and Cabernet Franc (25%) grapes being dried for 70 days in specially climate-controlled rooms, which caused a loss of 35% volume and a brix level close to 29. Aging then transpired in new and used oak barrels for 18 months. Full-bodied and thick, there is a flattering profile of jam: plum, blackberry and cherry, as well as cocoa, coffee, cinnamon, tobacco, herbs and raisins. Concentrated and succulent; a long finish ensure this wine will age for another 8 years. (ES)
Aged on the lees for 3 years, this one opens with floral scents, red berry, mineral and yeasty brioche, together with a dash of vanilla. Subtle red cherry and raspberry fruit on the palate comes wrapped in a smooth, creamy texture balanced with refined acidity and crisp mineral grip. Polished fizz made in what is fast becoming the classic Benjamin Bridge style. (SW)
90 TENUTA ARGENTIERA ARGENTIERA 2010, BOLGHERI SUPERIORE, TUSCANY, ITALY ($65.50) Dark ruby. Shy nose of black fruits and lead pencil, characteristic of the Bordeaux varieties used in the blend. Supple attack, but full-bodied middle palate with a tight tannic core, slightly rough on the tongue. Great length and aging potential. (GBQc)
89 DOMAINE DES CIGALONS 2010, AOC CHÂTEAUNEUF-DUPAPE, FRANCE ($27.83)
Clear, medium-deep plum red. Good typicity; Grenache nose of candied plums, with raisin and raspberry aromas. Medium-bodied, with lots of sour cherry-fruit. Tannins are still rough; will improve with 2 to 3 more years. (RL)*
× Find a collection of wine, beer and spirit tasting notes at quench.me/notes/
Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category. Our scores are based on the wine's quality as well as price point. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Carefully study the commentaries to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Crystal Luxmore and Jonathan Smithe. QUENCH USES THE 100-POINT SCALE 95-100 = Exceptional 90-94 = Excellent 85-89 = Very good
SPARKLING 91 DIEBOLT-VALLOIS BRUT ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE NV, CRAMANT, FRANCE ($68)
Beautifully aromatic with cherry and raspberry aromas and flavours; a bit of a juicy, tart quality mixed with an earthy toastiness, fresh acidity and a good bit of mineral from start to finish. (GB)
90 HENRI BILLIOT BRUT RÉSERVE GRAND CRU CHAMPAGNE NV, AMBONNAY, FRANCE ($65)
Fresh, refined and rich with lots of spice, ginger, stone fruit, toasted apple and citrus zest; lovely texture and balance. Mineral with a mouth-watering quality that carries through the long aftertaste. (GB)
90 VARNIER FANNIÈRE BRUT ZERO GRAND CRU CHAMPAGNE NV, AVIZE, FRANCE ($65)
Lively and elegant with loads of stone fruit, apple, spice, citrus peel; a wonderful clean texture with a hint of fresh-baked brioche and a mouth-watering finish. (GB)
89 DOMAINE J LAURENS LE MOULIN BRUT NV, BLANQUETTE DE LIMOUX, MIDI, FRANCE ($17.95)
A bargain-priced sparkler. Straw colour. A nose of apples and apple blossoms with toasty notes in the background. Full on the palate and fairly complex with an energizing, crisp personality and a toasty-nutty finish. (TA)
80-84 = Good 75-79 = Acceptable 70 & under = Below average *Available through wine clubs
88 VITICOLTORI DELL’ACQUESI BRACHETTO D’ACQUI NV, PIEMONTE, ITALY ($13.35)
Here’s the perfect late-summer sparkler. This foaming, light ruby-coloured wine is off-dry with cherry and rose-petal flavours, refreshing and easy-drinking with a mere 6.5% alcohol. A wine for sipping on the patio while waiting for the BBQ to heat up. (TA)
WHITE ARGENTINA 89 DON DAVID RESERVE TORRONTÈS 2012, SALTA ($13.95)
This highly perfumed grape is a specialty of Argentina and is one of the most seductive of wines. Very pale in colour with a lime tint, this wine has an intense orange-blossom and peach nose with dry orange peel, ginger and lavender flavours. Ideal for spicy Thai or curried dishes. (TA)
89 BODEGAS FRANÇOIS LURTON PINOT GRIS 2013, VALLE DE UCO, MENDOZA ($13.99)
Delicate floral, green and tropical-fruit scents pave the way for gently ripe green apple and lemon citrus flavours on the palate. Well-modulated acidity and a touch of gravelly dryness round out this gracefully balanced wine. Serve with braised vegetables as an opener or a simple salad with a mustard dressing. (SW)
AUSTRALIA 91 NUGAN KING FRASCA’S LANE CHARDONNAY 2012, VICTORIA ($19)
A bargain Chardonnay from a much-overlooked region of Australia. Straw colour with a hint of lime, it offers a toasty, peachy nose with a barnyard note. Medium- to full-bodied, it’s fresh and lively, crisply dry, well balanced and long on the finish. (TA)
CANADA 92 JOIEFARM PINOT BLANC 2013, OKANAGAN ($23)
Another Alsatian variety that Joie excels with. Nose is fuelled by wonderful minerality, melon, pink grapefruit and fresh apple slices. It’s fleshy on the palate but maintains freshness with juicy apple and citrus fruit, a pinch of sweetness, a touch of spice and crushed-stone minerality. (RV)
92 JOIEFARM RIESLING 2013, OKANAGAN ($23)
This is a delicious Riesling from Joie, made in a late-harvest style, with a nose that shows lemon-ginger, tropical fruits and a generous smack of wild honey. It’s juicy on the palate, yet maintains a vibrant feel with chalky minerality, lemon-lime and honey notes. It’s pure, clean, fresh and delicious. (RV)
92 PEARL MORISSETTE CUVÉE BLACK BALL RIESLING 2012, NIAGARA ($25)
Named “Black Ball” because VQA keeps rejecting it for being “atypical.” It possessSEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 55
NOTED ... es a jarring nose of grapefruit, lime and apple skin, and powerful minerality with a controlled, subtle oxidative note from neutral oak fermentation. It is bone-dry on the palate, with lovely texture and ferocious energy that balances citrus, apple, mineral and acid. This is built to age, to soften and integrate with time. Note to VQA: being different is a good thing! (RV)
91 HUBBS CREEK PINOT GRIS 2012, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($18) I love this style of Gris with its crisp and refreshing nose of green apple, pear and pure river-rock minerality. The refreshing tone of this wine carries to the palate with apple-citrus flavours, wet-stone minerality and racy acidity that induces sip after sip. (RV)
91 JOIEFARM THE PURE GRAPE MUSCAT 2013, OKANAGAN ($23)
A blend of 2 Muscat grapes: Yellow Muscat from their home vineyard and White Muscat from nearby Deep Roots Vineyard on the Naramata Bench. Both exude a very spicy “Muscaty” nose while peppering the palate with gingerbread spices and orangey flavours. It’s such a bright, fun wine to drink on its own, whether before, after or without dinner. (HH)
90 KEINT-HE HILLIER BLANC 2011, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($28)
This unique assemblage is a blend of the white juice of red Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, and spends 12 months in a combination of new and seasoned French oak. It’s highly aromatic with pear, pineapple, vanilla and nutmeg spice. It has lovely texture and oak styling in the mouth to go with pear and lemon flavours that caress the palate. (RV)
89 BAILLIE-GROHMAN GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2013, CRESTON ($19)
Sports a faint pink hue from a 24-hour cold skin soak. Musk and rose petal bolt from the glass. Richly textured with soft acidity, supporting Turkish delight, Mandarin orange and dukkah spice flavours. Finishes with lingering lychee and cinnamon. Includes 12.5% Schoenberger for aromatics and depth. Must try this with tandoori chicken. (HH) 56 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
89 RIVER STONE PINOT GRIS 2013, OKANAGAN ($20)
88 BAILLIE-GROHMAN PINOT GRIS 2013, CRESTON, BC ($20)
89 JOIEFARM A DELICATE BALANCE RIESLING 2013, OKANAGAN ($23)
88 HINTERLAND WHITECAP 2013, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($22)
Quite rich, so don’t look for an austere Pinot Grigio here. Generous aromas of fruit, spice and nuts. Abundant buttery macadamia-nut flavour, well balanced by lemony acidity, ripe-pear sweetness and a well-rounded, medium-body frame. Brilliant when served slightly chilled with cheese. (HH)
This Spätlese (late harvest) style is sourced from 34-year-old average vines. Opens with scents of dried herb, applesauce and spicy mango. Juicy acidity balances the rich texture and medium sweetness. Ginger and lemon-lime zest linger long. Suited for the spicy sweetand-sour tastes of Asian cuisine. (HH)
89 JOIEFARM UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2013, OKANAGAN ($23)
An Okanagan expression of a Chablis-inspired white. Sweet corn on the nose, with ample red apple, lemon and orange creamsicle flavours on the bright, juicy palate. The 14.2% alcohol is well balanced, so it finishes clean, crisp and minerally. Well suited for sweet, briny shellfish dishes. (HH)
88 QUAILS’ GATE DRY RIESLING 2013, OKANAGAN ($17)
Sourced from 29-year-old vines along the slopes of Boucherie Mountain. Fragrant sweet apple, tangerine and lemon-lime dance atop tingly acidity balanced by off-dry peachy sweetness. Pear skin and sweet spice linger. A delightful glass with the salad course. (HH)
88 MALIVOIRE WINE COMPANY MUSQUÉ SPRITZ 2013, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($19.95)
Modelled after a Moscato d’Asti, this slightly effervescent wine beguiles with peach, honey, apples and freshcut flowers. Lengthy, slightly sweet and a sumptuous pour for patio-sipping (for those few days we have left) or cheese boards. (ES)
Sourced from the dry hillside of their Creston Valley Vineyard, and fermented half-warm in French oak and half-cool in stainless steel tanks. Aromas and flavours of pear, peach, melon and orange blossom. Richly textured with zesty acidity and ripe sweet fruit, while white flowers and white pepper linger. Pair up with chicken dishes. (HH)
This is made in the Charmat style, and blends Vidal, Riesling and Muscat into this easy-to-like, easy-to-drink sparkler that is highly aromatic with peach, citrus, wild summer flowers and apple slices. It’s bright and fresh on the palate with tart lime-citrus, peach and tropical fruits. (RV)
88 JOIE FARM UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2013, OKANAGAN ($22)
Aromatic ripe banana and pineapple themes carry throughout this full-bodied, exotically flavoured Chardonnay, with hazelnut and dry mineral notes kicking in on the finish. In this vintage, richness and weight are more apparent than crisp fruity freshness. (SW)
88 BURNING KILN WINERY SWEET LEAF RIESLING 2012, NORFOLK COUNTY ONTARIO ($24.95)
This soft Riesling doles out peach, lime, honeydew melon and white flowers. The alcohol is low, with a rich mid-palate, some sweetness and considerable length. Chill well and enjoy over the short term. (ES)
88 TRIUS WINERY SHOWCASE GHOST CREEK VINEYARD RIESLING 2012, FOUR MILE CREEK, ONTARIO ($25)
This single-vineyard Riesling serves up peach, pear, petrol, crushed seashells, lime and spice. Mid-weight; there is a fine spine of acidity, giving 5-7 years of cellaring potential. (ES)
87 PONDVIEW ESTATE WINERY GR GEWÜRZTRAMINER/RIESLING 2013, NIAGARA ($13.95) Peach, honey, rose, Red Delicious apple,
spice and tropical fruit are all in play in this off-dry wine. There is moderate acidity and decent length. Drink now with coconut curry shrimp or fish tacos topped with pineapple/jalapeño salsa. (ES)
87 BURNT SHIP BAY PINOT GRIGIO 2013, NIAGARA ($14.95)
I will preface this rating by saying that, as a general rule, I am not a fan of Pinot Grigio. That said, this PG is an absolute joy to drink! The pretty bouquet of banana, peach, honey and flowers give way to fresh apple, mineral and spice on the refreshing palate. Put a good chill to it and enjoy this summer/autumn on the patio or with grilled fish topped with lemon. (ES)
87 QUAILS’ GATE CHENIN BLANC 2013, OKANAGAN ($19)
Sourced from both their West Kelowna estate and Osoyoos vineyards. Fermented 85% in stainless steel and 15% in 2-year-old French oak barrels, with 9% Sauvignon Blanc. Lots of vibrant apple, melon, herbal and celery. Works well with vegetarian dishes now, but can also be cellared for 5 to 7 years. (HH)
87 RIVER STONE SPLASH 2013, OKANAGAN ($19)
Juicy Pinot Gris is accompanied by the aromatics, spiciness and richness of Viognier and Gewürztraminer. Strikes with some intensity on both nose and palate, but the soft acidity and off-dry sweetness make it approachable as an outdoor sipper. Opens up with aeration and when served slightly chilled. (HH)
86 BAILLIE-GROHMAN RÉCOLTE BLANC 2013, CRESTON, BC ($17)
First release of their “White Harvest” blend of Pinot Gris (60%), Schoenburger (25%) and Kerner (15%). Scents of pear, honeysuckle and white flowers. Flavours of melon, tropical fruit, candy apple and pear peel. Quite rich for only 12.5% alcohol, but it’s the 14.6 g/l sweetness that rounds out the palate. (HH)
86 QUAILS’ GATE CHASSELAS/ PINOT BLANC/PINOT GRIS 2013, OKANAGAN ($19) Their first vinifera grape and wine was
Chasselas, and this subsequent blend remains its most popular wine (11,200 cases). Brightly aromatic with honeysuckle, fresh apple, clean citrus, refreshing offdry sweetness and lingering spiced honey. Not meant to age, but for kick-starting good times now. (HH)
CHILE 90 ERRAZURIZ CHARDONNAY WILD FERMENT 2012, CASABLANCA VALLEY ($18)
Very pale yellow. Nose is pleasant with notes of white fruits, lanolin and toast. Tame acidity, supple and slightly fat texture; oak is well integrated. Finish is intense but a little short. (GBQc)
88 J BOUCHON SAUVIGNON BLANC RESERVA 2011, MAULE VALLEY ($10.40)
Good value here. Pale colour, almost water-white. A nose of lanolin, grapefruit and green pepper. Medium-bodied, crisply dry with lemon and grapefruit flavours that carry through to a moderately long finish. Great with a light risotto and a lightly poached salmon. (TA)
FRANCE 92 BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS MEURSAULT GENEVRIÈRES PREMIER CRU 2012, BURGUNDY ($119)
Great white Burgundy, without a doubt. The oak and fruit come together to create a personality of apple, pear, yellow plum, spice, vanilla, hay and boatloads of minerals. Fullish, it has fresh acidity, providing structure and longevity. Drink until 2020 with sautéed prawns or cracked crab in a butter/ lemon sauce. (ES)
91 JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE G.C. SANCERRE 2012, LOIRE ($28.95)
Straw colour with a green tint; minerally, grassy nose of green plum and passion fruit. Rich mid-palate flavour; dry with a lovely mouthfeel and a refreshing citrus finish. A classic Sancerre. (TA)
91 JEAN-MAX ROGER SANCERRE BLANC CUVÉE GC 2012, SANCERRE ($29)
The nose on this Sauvignon Blanc is redolent in white summer flowers, grapefruit and mineral notes. Citrus washes over the palate in a refreshing mélange of ripe grapefruit and lime flavours and terrific minerality. Well-balanced and delicious summer wine. (RV)
90 BOUGRIER VOUVRAY DOUCE 2012, LOIRE VALLEY ($18.99)
Bright and fresh aromas and flavours with lovely apple, fig and fresh almonds. A hint of sweetness on the finish, but balanced with a nice bit of acidity and very pure fruit. A great value and great partner with seafood and Asian cuisine. (GB)
90 DOMAINE VACHERON SANCERRE 2012, LOIRE VALLEY ($30)
Bright pale yellow. Very fresh nose of lemon and grapefruit with herbaceous notes and a hint of flint. Light body; the affirmed acidity brings lots of freshness to the round and powerful middle palate. Finish is long and satisfying. It drinks very well right now but will last a few more years. (GBQc)
90 CHÂTEAU LA LOUVIÈRE 2009, PESSAC-LÉOGNAN ($52)
A highly aromatic Bordeaux blanc from this undervalued producer, with an elegant nose of pear, lemon verbena, nutmeg, grapefruit and subtle grassy/ oak/spice notes. It lingers on the palate yet shows freshness and vibrancy with lemon, citrus and grapefruit notes to compliment the supporting spice. A stylish and finessed Sauvignon Blanc at a (relatively) good price. (RV)
89 IN VINO EROTICO WHITE 2012, CÔTEAUX DU LIBRON IGP ($18.99)
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier and partly oak-fermented Chardonnay offering lush floral scents with yellow tropical fruit and grapefruit; ripe citrus, tropical fruit and honeyed apricot balanced by zesty acidity come through on the palate. (SW) SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 57
NOTED ... 89 DOMAINE GAUTHERON CHABLIS 2012, BURGUNDY ($25)
A nose of lime, fresh lemon, peach and apple that’s pure, fresh and unburdened by oak aging. The array of citrus fruit is crisp, tart and vibrant on the palate. Racy acidity and chalky minerality add pleasure to this lovely old-school Chablis. (RV)
89 LA CHABLISIENNE LES VÉNÉRABLES VIEILLES VIGNES 2010, CHABLIS, BURGUNDY ($25)
Straw yellow. Citrusy nose with a gunflint undertone. The sharp acidity hits your taste buds first, followed by a moderately fruity middle palate with a strong mineral component. Lasting finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 4 to 5 years, ideally with oysters. (GBQc)
89 HENRI BOURGEOIS LES BARONNES 2012, SANCERRE, LOIRE VALLEY ($25)
Pale yellow. Sharp nose of citrus and herbaceous notes; very aromatic. Lively on the palate; light body but intense Sauvignon flavour. Refreshing due to its lasting acidity. Ready to drink. Perfect on a warm day. (GBQc)
89 DOMAINE VILLABEA 2011, CONDRIEU AOC ($36)
Clear medium-deep gold. Huge nose of peaches, honey, a little orange peel. Full-bodied, a little shy on fruit and acidity but good-tasting: apricots and honey with some interesting hazelnut bitterness on the finish. (RL)*
88 DOMAINE DU TARIQUET CLASSIC 2012, CÔTES DE GASCOGNE, SOUTHWEST ($13)
This blend of Ugni Blanc and Colombard offers a nose reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc plus a hint of exotic fruits. Light and refreshing on the palate, it has a great fruity taste and a clean finish. Drink now. (GBQc)
87 JEANJEAN LE PIVE GRIS 2013, IGP SABLE DE CAMARGUE, LANGUEDOC ($15.70)
Very pale pink. Light strawberry and candy notes. Delicate fruity taste; soft mouthfeel. Balanced with some extra vol58 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
ume and power in the expanding finish. Easy drinking, so don’t wait. (GBQc)
87 WILLM PINOT GRIS RÉSERVE 2012, ALSACE ($17.35)
Medium yellow with pink reflections. Ripe pear and apricot on the nose. Offdry with a nice acidity to keep it balanced and fresh. The middle palate has a good body and flavour presence with a hint of bitterness to lift the medium-length finish. (GBQc)
GERMANY 87 WACHENHEIMER SCHENKENBÖHL GEWÜRZTRAMINER KABINETT 2009, PFALZ ($14.17)
Clear medium yellow. Nose of roses and lychee with a touch of allspice. Full-bodied. Sweetness just barely offset by acidity; flavours of peaches drizzled with a bit of honey. The rich fruit and spice nicely complement grilled teriyaki chicken garnished with pineapple and sweet potato fries. (RL)*
86 BRETZ GEWÜRZTRAMINER SPÄTLESE TROCKEN 2011, RHEINHESSEN ($16.33)
Medium gold. Scents of lychee fruit and ripe banana. On the palate it is full-bodied with a bit of late-harvest sweetness but good balancing acidity. Flavours of rose petals, banana, pine sap. Interesting and unusual take on this grape; good for Gewürz lovers. (RL)*
GREECE 89 DOMAINE GEROVASSILIOU MALAGOUSIA 2012, MACEDONIA ($29.95)
Evangelos Gerovassiliou is the man who rescued the aromatic Malagousia grape from extinction back in the 1970s. Personally, I describe the varietal as being Greece’s answer to Gewürz. Peach, honey, banana, citrus, flowers and spice flatter the senses. The crisp personality makes this a perfect pairing for grilled octopus topped with a Moroccan harissa sauce. (ES)
88 TERRA LEMNIA MUSCAT OF ALEXANDRIA 2012, LIMNOS ($23)
This Muscat of Alexandria is from the Greek island of Limnos in the North Aegean. Introduced to the island over a century ago, it’s an extremely rare and dry Muscat with an aromatic nose of lemon drop, lanolin, oyster shell, citrus and grapefruit that is, oddly, reminiscent of Hunter Valley Sémillon. It is quite delicious on the palate with grapefruit and lemon flavours in a perfectly dry style, all bolstered by bright acidity. (RV)
ITALY 90 TENUTA ARGENTIERA POGGIO AI GINEPRI BIANCO 2011, IGT TUSCANY ($19.65)
Straw yellow. The sharp nose has finesse and complexity in its ripe fruit, smoke, honey and white flowers. Rich on the palate, even without any oak. Nice ripe taste and body. Enjoy now. (GBQc)
87 SANTA MARGHERITA PINOT GRIGIO 2013, TRENTINO/ ALTO ADIGE ($17.95)
I’m not a fan of Pinot Grigio, but this one was a pleasant surprise. Very pale in colour, it has a minerally peach-pit nose and crisply dry flavours of white peach, green apple and lemon zest. (TA)
NEW ZEALAND 89 STONELEIGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2013, MARLBOROUGH ($17) Very pale in colour with a sweaty, grassy, struck-flint nose; exuberant flavours of gooseberry and elderberry billow on the palate. Crisply dry; medium-bodied with an engagingly tart finish. (TA)
SPAIN 88 TORRES VIÑA ESMERALDA SEMI-DRY WHITE 2013, PENEDÈS ($13.95)
Water-white in colour with a lime tint, it offers a fragrant Muscat nose of honey-
suckle and orange, flavours that replicate on the palate. Initially off-dry, this charmer finishes dry. (TA)
UNITED STATES 91 SMITH-MADRONE CHARDONNAY 2011, NAPA VALLEY ($39.95)
A terroir-driven, full-bodied Chardonnay that sings in the glass. Bright straw colour with a mineral, peach and vanilla oak nose. The texture is oily with citrus and peach flavours that culminate in a toasty, nutty finish that lingers on the palate. (TA)
89 DON SEBASTIANI & SONS THE CRUSHER VIOGNIER 2012, CALIFORNIA ($16.95)
Pale lemon colour with a minerally, floral, peach nose; full-bodied, dry, richly extracted flavours of white peach and honeysuckle. Delivers a true Viognier experience at a reasonable price. (TA)
ROSÉ 91 HINTERLAND ROSÉ 2011, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($37)
This traditionally made sparkling wine is a blend of 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay from estate fruit. It is simply delicious and, in my opinion, the signature wine from Hinterland. It starts with a beautiful pale rose colour and shows a nose of pie crust, strawberry and cherry with a lick of citrus and toast. It is driven by racy acidity on the palate with flavours of wild raspberry, tart cherry and toast all delivered in a long and refreshing finish. (RV)
89 JOIEFARM “RE-THINK PINK!” ROSÉ 2013, OKANAGAN ($21)
The cool-climate Loire Valley is the inspiration for this Pinot Noir/Gamay (60%/40%) blend. Strawberry and sage aromatics greet the nose. The juicy, cherry-like acidity balances the tasty, off-dry sweetness joyfully, while the slight tug of tannin adds complexity. One of BC’s most versatile food-pairing wines. (HH)
87 QUAILS’ GATE ROSÉ 2013, OKANAGAN ($16)
A salmon-hued blend of Gamay Noir (60%), Pinot Noir (30%) and Pinot Gris (10%). Light floral and red-berry aromas and flavours whet the whistle. Crisp, clean, refreshing; a well-balanced dry palate with just a hint of sweet ripe berries. Drink up around the charcuterie platter. (HH)
87 RIVER STONE MALBEC ROSÉ 2013, OKANAGAN ($20)
Bright red rose colour. Floral and strawberry scents set up flavours of red plum, rhubarb and some meaty notes. Lively mouthfeel balances well with the lingering light tannins. Although a worthy summer sipper, it has heft enough to pair well with hamburgers year-round. (HH)
86 BAILLIE-GROHMAN BLANC DE NOIRS ROSÉ 2013, CRESTON, BC ($19)
This rose-hued 100% Pinot Noir is no shrinking violet. Although only 12% alcohol, there are intense aromatics and a rich palate backed by 18 g/l sugar. Replete with pomegranate, raspberries, black cherry, fresh-cut flowers and even tropical fruit salad. Bring on chicken wings with all manner of dipping sauces. (HH)
RED ARGENTINA 88 CHAKANA ESTATE MALBEC 2012, MENDOZA ($17)
A plump and juicy Malbec with blue plum, baking spices, cocoa and blackcurrant aromas. It’s warm and inviting on the palate with plums, dark fruit and touches of anise, spice and dark chocolate. (RV)
AUSTRALIA 89 TWO SPURS PINOT NOIR 2011, ADELAIDE HILLS, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($17.99) Seductive, spicy strawberry and red-cherry bouquet reveals unmis-
takable Pinot pedigree. Dark cherry flavours enveloped in silky-smooth tannins with good weight and balance take centre stage on the palate, fully delivering on the promise. (SW)
CANADA 92 ANGELS GATE WINERY MOUNTAINVIEW PINOT NOIR 2010, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($24) For the price, this wine immensely over-delivers. Concentrated and ripe, it has loads of plum, cassis, cherry, black tea, spice and vanilla that carry onto the long finale. Suave tannins allow another 4 years of aging. Mushroom risotto and lighter game fare will be a marvellous pairing with this beauty. (ES)
91 HUBBS CREEK PINOT NOIR UNFILTERED 2011, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($29)
A personable, terroir-driven Pinot with aromas of beetroot, cherry, savoury spice, violets and foraged mushrooms. On the palate there is a distinct mineral and floral note through the core with integrated spice, a silky feel and length through the finish. A stylish, unique Pinot from Hubbs. (RV)
91 REDSTONE SYRAH REDSTONE VINEYARD 2010, NIAGARA ($40)
Grapes come from the original Thomas and Vaughan Vineyard (now Redstone) planted in 1998. Such a beautiful nose of peppery red fruits, earth, bramble, tobacco and spice. This is heady stuff on the palate — a gorgeously built Syrah with red and dark fruits, cracked black pepper, graphite, cedar and lavish spice notes that adds plenty of length through the finish. (RV)
90 RAVINE VINEYARD ESTATE WINERY RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010, NIAGARA ($55) A personality of sweet fruits — plum, cassis and raspberry — melds with savoury elements à la herbs and tobacco. New oak adds cocoa, vanilla and spice to the mix, creating a complex wine. Medium- to full-bodied; the tannins will allow cellaring until 2020 and possibly beyond. Pick
SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 59
NOTED ... your favourite cut of steak to enjoy with this impressive homegrown Cab! (ES)
88 BURNING KILN WINERY KILN HANGER THE SEQUEL 2010, ONTARIO ($59.95)
Made from 100% Cabernet Franc grapes that were dried for 8 days in old tobacco kilns. Raspberry, cassis, cherry, plum, herbs and vanilla are layered on a rather full-bodied frame. The tannins are firm, so cellar it for a couple of years and then serve with lamb kabobs or pepper-crusted bison steaks. (ES)
87 PONDVIEW ESTATE WINERY CABERNET/MERLOT 2011, NIAGARA ($18.95)
Although 2011 was not a great one for red wines in Niagara, Pondview has turned in a solid offering with this wine. Clocking in with a natural alcohol level of 14.3%, this midweight blend churns out plum, raspberry, cherry, violets, smoky tobacco, roasted herbs and vanilla. The finish is grippy, so best grill up some steak or serve with braised lamb shank. (ES)
CHILE 88 MONTES LIMITED SELECTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON/ CARMÉNÈRE 2011, COLCHAGUA VALLEY ($14.90)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (70%) and Carménère (30%) that’s spent 6 months in American oak. Deep ruby colour with an intense nose of cassis and vanilla oak. Rich and full on the palate with concentrated flavours of blackcurrant, coffee bean and smoky oak; spicy finish of ripe tannins. Great value. (TA)
88 ARBOLEDA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2011, VALLE DE ACONCAGUA ($19.99)
Unmistakable Chilean piquant, green-herbal and blackcurrant nose with a hint of clove and a dash of vanilla. Incisive blackcurrant and blackberry flavours are supported by solid tannic structure, good weight and acidity, and a touch of dark chocolate on the firm, dry finish. (SW) 60 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
87 ARBOLEDA CARMÉNÈRE 2011, COLCHAGUA VALLEY ($20.99)
Signature Chilean herbal/grassy scent with red currant and blackcurrant fruit on the nose and lively blackcurrant and blackberry flavours in the mouth. A splash of milk chocolate on the mid-palate is balanced by firm, dry tannic grip on the finish. (SW)
are flavours of blueberry and raspberry with high acidity and tannins that need more time to smooth. Will become more complex with more age. (RL)*
90 DOMAINE VILLABEA 2011, CÔTE-RÔTIE AOC ($38.17)
FRANCE
Deep garnet. Scents of raisins and black cherries with a hint of barnyard. In the mouth there are more raisin and cherry flavours and a hint of cloves, with good acidity and robust tannins. (RL)*
93 BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS CHAMBERTIN-CLOS-DE-BÈZE GRAND CRU 2012, BURGUNDY ($406)
90 THIBAULT LIGER-BELAIR MOULIN À VENT LES VIEILLES VIGNES 2011, BEAUJOLAIS ($45)
Yes, the price is stratospheric for mere mortals. That said, if you have the means, this is a perfumed and elegant Grand Cru full of cherry, rose, animal, barnyard, herbal and iodine qualities. The lengthy aftertaste is supported by fresh acidity and ripe tannins. This is not built for the long haul; rather, I would opt to drink over the next 5 to 7 years, so as to enjoy its soothing personality. (ES)
92 CHÂTEAU DE CHAMIREY LES RUELLES 2010, MERCUREY PREMIER CRU, BURGUNDY ($42.50)
Light ruby. Enticing nose of small red fruits, seductive vanilla and soft spices. Delicate fruity taste, firm acidity; the silky tannins are tight in the medium-bodied middle palate. A nice long finish wraps things up beautifully. (GBQc)
91 SHATTER GRENACHE 2011, VIN DE PAYS DES CÔTES CATALANES ($34.99)
This huge wine shows both depth and concentration of fine-spiced cherry fruit on the nose and similarly intense yet refined flavours of black cherry and crushed black plum with firm, but not excessively forbidding, tannic grip. More berry-like flavours emerge on the back palate. Fruit concentration is so intense that the 16% alcohol is only apparent as heady sensations creep up on the very long, deep finish. (SW)
90 CHÂTEAU DE SOURS ROUGE 2011, AOC BORDEAUX ($17.83) Medium-deep garnet. Nose of cassis, leather and cedar. On the palate there
Rich and complex. Great structure with loads of ripe fruit, cherry, plum, pepper and spice flavours. Great depth and full, silky tannins. Very persistent on the long, lingering finish. Terrific food wine for everything from earthy vegetarian dishes to roasted meats. (GB)
90 BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS NUITS-ST-GEORGES LES CAILLES PREMIER CRU 2012, BURGUNDY ($146) This Pinot leans to the dark fruit end of the spectrum: plum and dark cherry. Spice, cocoa, earth and iron play into the mix as well. Midweight, it is airy, yet long on the palate. Tannins are ripe and polished. Now until 2018. (ES)
89 CHAPOUTIER COLLECTION BIO 2012, CÔTES DU RHÔNE ($22) Bright ruby. Without any oak, it’s like sticking your nose in a jar of strawberry jam. Supple with a soft texture, fat tannins and a clean fruity taste. The finish is long and deliciously fruity. Drink now to enjoy at its peak. (GBQc)
89 CHAPOUTIER LA BERNARDINE 2011, CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE AOC ($51.49)
Still a little closed and should be decanted before serving, but does reveal elegant, dark, fleshy fruit backed by subtle cinnamon and dry earthy notes. Blackcurrant, plum, a pinch of white pepper and a splash of dark chocolate unfold on the palate with notes of roasted coffee and black cherry on the dry tannic finish. Needs 3 to 5 years further aging. (SW)
88 MARIS ORGANIC SYRAH 2011, MINERVOIS ($24)
Rich and full with ripe blackberry, black cherry and plum aromas and flavours; a firm structure and tannins coated with mocha, coffee, earth and spice, and a bold finish. (GB)
87 MAGELLAN GRENACHE VIN DE PAYS DE L’HÉRAULT 2011, MAGALAS ($19.99)
Slightly closed on the nose, it shows dark berry and cherry flavours, spice and savoury herbs. A little one-dimensional, but well structured with a full mouthfeel. Decent value but lacks some elegance and complexity. (GB)
86 CHATEAU PIQUE-SÈGUE 2011, AOC BERGERAC ($14.83)
Medium-deep plum just turning over to garnet. Light nose of violets and raspberry. Light fruit in the mouth, with cassis and blackberries, and substantial tannins. Needs another year or 2. (RL)*
84 MAISON BELLEROCHE MALBEC 2012, IGP PAYS D’OC ($9.17) Medium-deep plum red. Nose of candy apple, raspberry, cherry and rhubarb. Light-bodied with raspberry and plum flavours and a tannic finish. Ready to drink now. (RL)*
80 OLIVIER ST-NICOLAS-DE-BOURGUEIL 2012, AOC LOIRE VALLEY ($16) Pale to medium pinkish-plum colour. Typical Cabernet Franc nose; a little green and stemmy, with raspberry and spice aromas. From a difficult year in the Loire Valley, the body is light with flavours of redcurrant and cranberry. Needs more time but the fruit flavours may not last much longer. (RL)*
GREECE 88 LYRARAKIS THE LAST SUPPER DRY RED WINE 2010, REGIONAL WINE OF IRAKLION, CRETE ($16.99)
Reveals elegantly developed red and dark fruit with a trace of cinnamon and dried herb on the nose. The emphasis shifts to
dark berry and chocolate on the palate, supported by firm tannic structure with good weight and balance. (SW)
ITALY 94 BEL COLLE BAROLO 2007, DOCG MONVIGLIERO ($27.83)
Clear medium garnet. Clean, medium-intensity nose of blackberry, geranium flowers, leather, liquorice, coffee and vanilla. Medium-bodied with red-berry fruit, high acidity and alcohol, tannins beginning to soften, and a long finish. Outstanding. Drink now to 2016. (RL)*
92 TENUTA ARGENTIERA ARGENTIERA 2008, BOLGHERI SUPERIORE, TUSCANY ($65.50) Ruby-garnet colour. Shy nose of black fruits and toasted oak with a balsamic touch. Supple and medium-bodied, the tight middle palate is not without elegance. Nice round finish of good length. Drinks well now. (GBQc)
87 LA VALENTINA MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO 2011, PIEMONTE ($16) A friendly Italian red from Abruzzo with a fruity nose of blackberry, blueberry, kirsch, currants; lightly spiced. There are some structured, but not aggressive, tannins in the mouth to go with dark fruit, liquorice and savoury spices. (RV)
SOUTH AFRICA 87 NEDERBURG MANOR HOUSE 2011, WESTERN CAPE ($17)
Dark ruby. Black cherry and vanilla on the nose. Warm and intense on the palate; ripe fruity flavour, but the tannic backbone has a grainy texture like very fine sandpaper. It finishes warm with a sharp acid lift. Drink within a year or two. (GBQc)
UNITED STATES 94 ROBERT MONDAVI RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010, NAPA VALLEY ($139.95)
I tried this wine 5 times over the period of
1 month, and every time the wine scored the same. Powerful, concentrated, intense, rich and layered were but some of the descriptors I used. Full-bodied; the dark fruit comes at you from every direction, followed by mint, violets, cinnamon, cocoa and vanilla. Needless to say, the finale is super long, and there is a boatload of tannins that will ensure 3 decades of aging. (ES)
89 BIRICHINO CINSAULT OLD VINES BECHTHOLD VINEYARD 2012, MOKELUMNE RIVER ($32)
Supple, stylish and flavourful with a perfumey nose, flavours of plum, black fruits, currant, white pepper, tea, silky texture and juicy finish. (GB)
88 BIRICHINO GRENACHE OLD VINES BESSON VINEYARD 2011, CENTRAL COAST ($32)
Fresh and vibrant with aromas and flavours of redcurrant, spice, cranberry and a subtle earthiness, good depth and balance with elegant tannins and a pleasant, lingering finish. Great with game birds. (GB)
87 BONNY DOON A PROPER CLARET 2012, SANTA CRUZ ($30) Refreshing, its silky texture, ripe raspberry, sour cherry, tart pomegranate and brightness make it very drinkable. It’s also lower in alcohol and less extracted than so many of today’s California Cabs. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot with splashes of Tannat, Syrah and Petite Sirah. Great food wine as it will complement as opposed to overpower. (GB)
BEER SEA LEVEL BREWING SOUTHERN CROSS IPA, PORT WILLIAMS, NOVA SCOTIA ($7/1 L)
This light amber brew shows almost delicate floral and fruity malt aromas that do not quite prepare you for the rich, full flavours on the palate. Rounded, lightly sweet malt with a suggestion of caramel shifts to a very bitter hoppy dry wallop on the finish. Not for the faint of heart, this one is definitely in the West Coast school of heavily hopped IPAs. (SW) SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 61
BOXING ROCK CRAFTY JACK ENGLISH ALE, SHELBURNE, NOVA SCOTIA ($4.80/650 ML)
Dark ale coloured with distinct chocolate malt and lightly smoky aromas. This is a well-made, richly flavoured ale with bitter dark chocolate softened by just a touch of fruitiness, finishing very dry and bitter. Closely resembles stout in style. (SW)
GREAT LAKES BREWERY MY BITTER WIFE IPA, ONTARIO ($5.95/650 ML)
A “seasonal release” from GLB. The name pays tribute to Carrie Amelia Moore Nation, a rabid prohibitionist who had a penchant for attacking alcohol-serving establishments with a hatchet (no reports of her attacking alcohol-consuming people with said implement). Assertive on the nose, with lashings of piney hops, citrus, dried grass/hay and toasty/malty nuances. Crisp, crunchy, hoppy and malty with a brisk, dry finish and lingering notes of citrus and hops. (TS)
HACKER-PSCHORR MÜNCHNER KELLERBIER UNFILTERED LAGER BEER, GERMANY ($4.26/500 ML)
Relatively mild nutty malt and light yeasty aromas give way to fruity-sweet citrus, apple and mild malt flavours, finishing with subtle, light yeasty bitterness. Though slightly reminiscent of wheat beer, the style is pleasing in its own right. (SW)
SAMUEL ADAMS HOPOLOGY LATITUDE 48 IPA STRONG BEER, BOSTON, UNITED STATES ($14.98/6-PACK)
This is another super-hopped, West Coast-style IPA. Aromas of fruity malt with a light herbal hoppy accent are not overly assertive, but flavours really open up on the palate. Balanced fruity and malty character is quickly overtaken by powerful hoppy bitterness that lingers on the finish. Has real appeal for hop aficionados but might be too assertive for some. (SW)
INNIS & GUNN LAGER, SCOTLAND ($2.65/500 ML) With the introduction of its lager, I&G 62 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
breaks from its tradition of bottling cask-aged brews to offer a lighter, more approachable style with (perhaps) a more universal appeal. Based on the traditional German Helles style of lager first brewed in the 1800s, it delivers clean, slightly malty, mildly fruity (banana?) aromas, and a crisp palate that nicely balances the hop/malt components. (TS)
warm pumpkin bread slathered with rich cream-cheese icing. Luckily, there’s enough cinnamon and nutmeg to keep the caramel middle and those frosting flavours from being too sickly. Batting over 8.5% ABV, this is a beer to share, and pie-heads should sip it alongside a whipped cream-topped slice for a double dose of the mighty gourd. (CL)
MEANTIME BREWING INDIA PALE ALE, LONDON, UK ($9)
LAKE OF BAYS SPARKHOUSE RED ALE, ONTARIO ($13.25/6-PACK)
This is a classically brewed India Pale Ale, with aromas of earthy wet leaves, biscuit and caramel with flavours of marmalade and marzipan, and a medium finish of leafy hops. No-fail food pairings are Indian curries or carrot cake. (CL)
BREWERY TAVERN SCHLENKERLA AECHT SCHLENKERLA RAUCHBIER, GERMANY ($3.65/500 ML)
All beers were once made from malts that were dried over smoke, giving them fiery characteristics. This rauchbier (or smoked beer) from Bamberg, Germany is the classic example of this ancient beer style — the Schlenkerla family has been brewing this amber lager since 1405. Made from 100% malt that is smoked over beechwood, the beer tastes a bit like taking a bite of a double-bacon-and-smoked-meat sandwich on rye and washing it down with a swig of cola. Try it with smoked meat, applewood-smoked cheddar, or a hearty game or beef burger. (CL)
DESCHUTES BREWERY BLACK BUTTE PORTER, UNITED STATES ($5.30/650 ML)
Opened in 1988, this Oregon brewery is a beloved veteran of America’s craft-beer boom, standing out for its British-style ales. This porter is a long-standing favourite among the state’s discerning craft beer-ites, and it’s easy to see why — flavours of lightly roasted coffee, cocoa powder and milk chocolate dominate, with a tangy hop bitterness balancing out this silky, slim-bodied ale. (CL)
SOUTHERN TIER BREWING COMPANY PUMKING, UNITED STATES ($9/650 ML)
This brew, made with pumpkin purée and plenty of vanilla, is like biting into
This cherrywood-hued brew is an Ontario take on a Québécois “rousse” ale. Aromas of roasted nuts and chocolate with a slight grapefruitiness make this easy-drinking ale taste a little like an unsweetened Dairy Milk Fruit & Nut bar. Hints of cherry and a subtle smokiness; the hops kick in late to dry out the finish. Why not have with a wild boar poutine? (CL)
CIDER THE OLD THIRD GOLDEN RUSSET CIDER CUVÉE YQUELON 2013, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY, ONTARIO ($20)
Ontario craft cider has exploded onto the drinks scene in the last couple of years, and this predominately Pinot Noir producer has jumped in headfirst with this stylish méthode traditionelle offering made from local golden russet apples. The nose shows aromas of pear, toasty citrus, lychee and fresh apple pie with subtle vanilla nuances. A lively mousse sparkles on the palate with complex fruit and an explosion of flavours. Careful, it’s made with 9.5% alcohol. (RV)
WEST AVENUE HERITAGE DRY CIDER, ONTARIO ($10/500 ML)
West Avenue are definitely on the forefront of Ontario’s cider revolution. This is the flagship cider, made from 100% Heritage apples. It’s everything you want in a cider — crisp, relatively dry, teeming in apple flavours, with a lovely, long and refreshing finish, and balanced from sniff to swallow. Fast becoming a cider staple at top watering holes in Toronto and Ontario. (RV)
WELL NOTED ... 89 JOSEPH DROUHIN MÂCONVILLAGES 2012, BURGUNDY, FRANCE ($18)
Straw yellow. Expressive nose of apple-pear, tropical fruits (pineapple) and a mineral hint with dried herbs and flowers developing in the glass. Lively acidity, very good flavour presence and fruitiness, but the strong dried herbs and flowers can be disturbing. Original and seductive, if not in the classic white Burgundy style. Ready to drink with fruit-seasoned white meat such as chicken mango. (GBQc)
92 MAIPE RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA ($19)
90 ERRAZURIZ LA CUMBRE 2008, ACONCAGUA VALLEY, CHILE ($90)
This is one of those wines that you may want to stock up on, as it offers terrific value and top-drawer quality. It shows cocoa, blackcurrants, cherry and interesting savoury spice notes. The blackberry and anise fruits are concentrated on the palate and bolstered by roasted espresso bean, spice and balancing acidity. There’s a lot to like in this complex and structured red. (RV)
Purplish in colour, this Syrah with 3% Petit Verdot shows an intense, very oaky nose of red fruits, chocolate and spices. Full-bodied and intense in the mouth, it has great concentration and puts forward its power over finesse. Loaded with extract. (GBQc)
93 BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE GRAND CRU 2012, BURGUNDY, FRANCE ($260)
This beauty was slightly closed at the time of tasting, but its stature was undeniable. Full-bodied and powerful, it offers up a mélange of apple, spice, white flowers and minerals. The texture is a combination of creamy and crisp, with an oh-so-long finale. Drink over the next decade. (ES)
90 DOMAINE TOURNON MATHILDA SHIRAZ 2011, VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA ($19.95)
If your taste runs to bold, spicy reds, you’ll really like this medium-bodied, fruity wine made by Michel Chapoutier, a great producer from the Rhône Valley. Deep ruby in colour with a peppery, blackberry nose and a dry herbal flavour of smoked bacon and celery — yes, celery. (TA)
89 DOMAINE TSELEPOS MOSCHOFILERO 2013, MANTINIA, GREECE ($19)
90 JOST SELKIE FRIZZANTE 2013, NOVA SCOTIA ($19.99)
This newcomer reveals delicate scents of spring flowers, ripe red apple, white peach and a trace of green herb. A panoply of fruit flavours in the mouth are led by ripe apple and yellow pear. Appetizingly off-dry with very light, prickly sparkle, zippy acidity, a hint of honey and lightly drying mineral on the finish. (SW)
A youthful bouquet of peach, tangerine, banana, white flowers and honey also reveal themselves on the palate, along with lime, stony minerals and crisp acidity. Although lithe, it has ample length. Pair with fried shrimp topped with lemon or a spiced ceviche infused with tropical fruit. (ES)
89 DOMAINE DU POUJOL PICO VIEILLES VIGNES 2011, IGP PAY DE L’HÉRAULT ($20)
This intriguing white is a blend of Vermentino (aka Rolle), Carignan Blanc, and Roussanne from vines dating as far back as 1961. Very aromatic, with suggestions of spring flowers and lime zest, it is extremely well balanced and surprisingly full on the palate. A unique blend of ripe, borderline tropical fruit enhanced by some hints of rose petal and a touch of mineral. (TS)
SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 63
DAVINE BY GURVINDER BHATIA ...
Don’t call it a comeback KEN FORRESTER REFERS TO CHENIN BLANC AS THE “GREATEST WHITE-WINE GRAPE IN THE WORLD.” For-
rester is perhaps South Africa’s top producer of Chenin Blanc and one of the globe’s most ardent supporters of the grape. Originating in France’s Loire Valley, the varietal is experiencing a resurgence after many years of declining production. Okanagan winemaker Grant Stanley believes Chenin’s decline in popularity stemmed in large part to all the sweet, flabby wines from California and South Africa that dominated the market over much of the past two decades. When Forrester first purchased his vineyards in 1993, located on the slopes of the Helderberg Mountains in Stellenbosch, South Africa’s most famous wine-producing region, he was advised to rip out all the old Chenin vines that existed on the property. He was told that the grape was out of fashion and he would be better off planting Chardonnay, which was much more popular. To the benefit of wine drinkers everywhere, Forrester ignored the advice and set out to preserve and conserve the old vines on the property in a quest to Ken Forrester produce Chenin Blanc that could rival the top white wines of the world. Some 20 years later, Forrester has received international acclaim for not just the quality of his wines, but for raising the global profile of this versatile and delicious grape. According to Forrester, Chenin Blanc loves sun and cool temperatures. Abundant sunshine allows the grapes to ripen, while a cool climate allows the grapes to maintain a natural vibrancy. Forrester’s vineyards are located in the shadows of the mountains in close proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. The cool maritime breezes are corralled by the hills, resulting in a natural air-conditioning of the vineyards, producing grapes with a fresh crispness and minerality. The attractive features of Chenin Blanc lean toward medium-dry to medium-sweet wines with enough acidity for balance. These wines exhibit flavours of apple, honey and straw with a tacky texture and an ability to age, developing more complexity with several years in the bottle. While producers such as Forrester appear to be leading Chenin Blanc’s global revitalization, a renewed interest in the 64 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
wines from the Loire Valley — it’s home for all intents and purposes — has also contributed. The variety also, in my opinion, has a tremendous amount of potential in the Okanagan. There are only a couple of wineries, including Quails’ Gate and Road 13, producing Chenin Blanc in the Okanagan, and they are producing delicious, interesting, food-friendly wines. The current success of Chenin Blanc seems to be driven by wine geeks, restaurateurs and sommeliers who, inspired by the beautiful wines being produced in a number of regions, recognize the wine’s affinity for and versatility with a variety of cuisines.
The move by producers and consumers away from apple-juicy, sweet wines to accepting and embracing the natural acidity that exists due to Chenin’s natural character and the cool-climate viticultural areas in which the grape is being cultivated, has contributed to its evolution and a balance in many of the wines.
BOGLE VINEYARDS CHENIN BLANC 2012, CLARKSBURG, CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES ($24) Delicate and fresh. Aromas and flavours of stone fruits; a touch tropical with a slightly creamy texture; a pleasing, lifted finish and a hint of spice.
ROAD 13 SPARKLING CHENIN BLANC HOME VINEYARD 2009, OKANAGAN ($52) Fresh, vibrant and seamless showing apple, pear, citrus and fresh brioche; very focussed with racy acidity, amazing depth and complexity, a touch of nuttiness and a long, uplifted finish. One of our country’s top sparkling wines.
KEN FORRESTER PETIT CHENIN BLANC 2011, STELLENBOSCH, SOUTH AFRICA ($16)
KEN FORRESTER CHENIN BLANC THE FMC 2011, STELLENBOSCH, SOUTH AFRICA ($62)
Clean and fresh with lovely ripe aromas and flavours of apple, pear and white peach; immensely drinkable, finishing with a crisp minerality and just a hint of fresh-fruit sweetness. The ideal patio quaffer or, as Forrester puts it, “keep 3 cold and 3 spare.”
Rich, intense and creamy with fresh-baked bread, honey, citrus curds, floral notes, quince and baked apple aromas and flavours. Mouth-filling; great balance and acidity with a vibrant finish. Built to age.
BOUGRIER VOUVRAY DOUCE 2012, LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE ($19) Bright, fresh aromas and flavours with lovely apple, fig and fresh almonds. A hint of sweetness on the finish, but balanced with a nice bit of acidity and very pure fruit. A great value and great partner with seafood.
ROAD 13 OLD VINES CHENIN BLANC 2011, OKANAGAN ($35) From some of the oldest vines in BC (40+ years old), this is evidence of the Okanagan’s ability to make world-class wine. Great savoury and citrus aromas followed by flavours of lovely pear and grapefruit, balanced acidity, sweet spices and a lingering, refined finish. Ideal for turkey dinner or Asian cuisine.
QUAILS’ GATE CHENIN BLANC 2012, OKANAGAN ($24) Bright, fresh, crisp and lively with loads of lemon and lime, hints of tropical fruit and mineral; nice weight in the mid-palate, ripe fresh-fruit sweetness balanced with bright acidity, finishing clean. The majority of the grapes come from the winery’s home vineyard, providing the lemon, lime and mineral character. Grapes from the warmer Osoyoos vineyard site contribute the tropical-fruit notes.
RAATS ORIGINAL CHENIN BLANC 2009, COASTAL REGION, SOUTH AFRICA ($26) Mick Luckhurst from Road 13
Delicious and vibrant peach, apple, fig, almond, mineral and spice. Elegantly rich, great focus and loads of bracing acidity on the mouth-watering finish. ×
SPAIN & PORTUGAL TOUR THE PASSION OF THE IBERIAN OCTOBER 3 – 16, 2014
Tour Spain and Portugal
with WH Henry Travel Inc.
The Iberian Peninsula, home of two wine producing countries known worldwide for their long winemaking history, unique varietals and luscious wines. The countries Spain, where Tempranillo, sherry, Albariño, Catalonia and Cava are familiar faces; and Portugal, where Vinhos Verdes, Port and Alentejo are just a few of the many native varieties.
AGENCE DE VOYAGES W. H. HENRY INC.
TRAVEL AGENTS
Our tour will take us through seven regions of the northern Iberian Peninsula: we will start in Spain with the Ribera del Duero, Burgos and Rioja; the Portugal leg of our trip will include Vinho Verde, Douro, Oporto and Lisboa. Visit vineyards, see picturesque cityscapes and enjoy the varied, warm weather.
12 NIGHTS IN THE IBERIAN PENISULA: $5,965.00*PER PERSON, SINGLE SUPPLEMENT $1,970.00 *price based on double occupancy, including GST/HST, QST and FICAV contribution of $2.00/$1000. Quebec licensee.
Please call Lucy Rodrigues at 514 369 3300 or email whhenrytravel@gmail.com for brochure. WH Henry Inc. 5165 Sherbrooke Streat West, Suite 500, Montreal QC H4A 1T6
SEPTEMBER 2014 × QUENCH.ME × 65
AFTER TASTE BY TONY ASPLER ...
Massive Undertaking It is somehow fitting that the Decanter World Wine Awards should be held at Tobacco Dock in the East End of London.
FROM THE OUTSIDE, TOBACCO DOCK LOOKS LIKE A WOMEN’S PRISON. According to its website, the massive
building was constructed “in the early 19th century as a secure bonded warehouse for the receipt and storage of tobacco from the New World. Tobacco Dock was designed to offer complete security for precious and highly desirable goods.” Refurbished two years ago as an event venue, the place is full of natural light from the glass ceilings, ideal for wine tasting. And what is more highly desirable for wines of quality! I’ve been the Regional Chair for Canada at the DWWA for several years now and have seen it outgrow its first home — a photographic studio complex called The Worx in Parsons Green, south west London. The 2014 competition received more than 15,000 entries, making it the largest wine judging in the world. The statistics give you an idea of the logistical nightmare involved in mounting such a competition: 220 judges from 28 countries (including 67 Masters of Wine and 17 Master Sommeliers). 6,000 Riedel glasses a day. 5,200 boxes of wines that have to be moved around; 60,000 individual bottles have to be put in masking plastic bags, stickered with code numbers, arranged into flights and delivered to the panels. The woman in charge of this enterprise is Sarah Kemp, long time publishing director of Decanter Magazine (billed on its cover as “The world’s best wine magazine”). In 2003, she acceded to Steven Spurrier’s suggestion that the magazine mount a competition to rival the well-established London-based International Wine Challenge. Now that DWWA has surpassed the IWC in numbers, there is no love lost between the two organizations. 66 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2014
Steven Spurrier, whom you will recall set the wine world on its ear in 1976 when he organized “The Judgement of Paris” blind tasting, set the competition’s rules and is the chief judge. Sarah Kemp told me: “Originally, I hated wine competitions. The reason was I thought they came out with very solid international-style wines but not wines of typicity, which is what Decanter is about. I think the success of the competition was to divide it regionally and put people who really knew the regions in charge. They would be the policemen of typicity and they direct their panels. I recognized that people really needed advice and we could never make recommendations in the numbers that we do without the competition.” What makes the Decanter World Wine Awards so successful? “We are absolutely rigorous about whom we invite to judge,” says Kemp. “I don’t believe this is a training ground for people. Our duty is to get the very best possible. Why? Because it’s not a bottle of wine we’re judging but a year’s work of somebody, and therefore we have a professional responsibility because we have influence to really select the very best tasters in the world. And when those tasters come, we have to put them in an environment where they have nothing to do but concentrate on the wines.” My fellow judges on the Canadian panel were Janet Dorozynski from Ottawa, Barbara Philip MW and Rhys Pender MW from British Columbia. After three days of tasting 245 Canadian wines, we awarded 14 Gold medals, 36 Silver, 79 Bronze and 45 Commended (for the total results, see www.decanter.com/dwwa). When I told my sister-in-law that every April I go to London to judge the Decanter competition, she said: “Is there really that much difference every year in decanter designs?” × ILLUSTRATION: FRANCESCO GALLÉ, WWW.FRANCESCOGALLE.COM
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