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ADAMO IN FOLDER
SEPTEMBER 2018 21 THE SURPRISE TRANSPLANT MICHAEL PINKUS
GROWING SYRAH IN THE HEART OF TUSCANY.
23 SWEET DREAMS
MICHAELA MORRIS
SICILY’S STORIED PAST IS LINED WITH GLASSES OF SWEET WINE.
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16 | THERE IS INK IN THERE JONATHAN SMITHE
THE PARADOX
Cooking with squid ink is a true art.
EVAN SAVIOLIDIS
18 | DON’T MAKE IT YOURSELF TOD STEWART Eating in someone else’s kitchen may help you cook better.
SICILIAN REDS ARE KING BUT THE SUN IS SHINING ON THEIR UNIQUE WHITE WINES.
31 | ORIGIN STORY LISA HOEKSTRA Visit the University of Minnesota, the place some of your favourite wines were born.
34 | CANADIAN EXPATS TAKE OVER THE WORLD TREVE RING How is Canada influencing the global wine scene?
38 | EUROPE DOES IT TOO DUNCAN HOLMES Rice dishes play a big part in European cuisine.
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BACK OF THE BOOK 42 | VEGGIE LOVE NANCY JOHNSON Take advantage of September’s crops to create your own veggie-dense dishes.
44 | BUYING GUIDE The best wine, beer and spirits from around the world, critiqued by our expert tasting panel.
64 | HEAT AND INTENSITY GURVINDER BHATIA The importance of Sicilian whites can’t be understated.
66 | ON THE WORLD STAGE TONY ASPLER How is Canadian wine being seen on the international stage?
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EDITOR’S NOTE IT’S NOT EASY BEING ITALIAN. GOOD FOOD EVERYWHERE, FREE-FLOWING WINE AND A SHOT OF GRAPPA TO BRING IT ALL TOGETHER. How can anyone
live like that? There are a number of people who see Italy (as well as France, Portugal … you name it) as places of high culinary pedigree. Europe does seem to have dominated our restaurant scene for decades. But as the tapestry of Canada changes, so does its gourmet makeup. New cuisines are added from far flung lands and we exercise our cooking muscles as we look for enticing flavours. I was aptly reminded this year, by our wine editor Gurvinder Bhatia, that there is no such thing as Indian food. As I looked at him with a slight bit of confusion, he went on to explain. Countries with such vast culinary histories as India, Italy and others don’t have a single thing you can point to and say, “that’s what the country is known for.” It’s not as macro as that. Regions, cities, villages and blocks can hold extreme differences in cooking style and ingredients. You can’t find one Italian who won’t side with his nonna’s recipe first. And that makes things hard for gourmets like us. On the other hand, it also makes things quite exciting. This makes for infinite taste possibilities. The nuances are exactly where we want to be. And before you ask, yes, my nonna’s recipe for arrabiata is the best.
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One story. AD Many authors.
WINES OF NOVA SCOTIA IN FOLDER
Discover Nova Scotia’s signature white wine. Officially launched in June 2012, Tidal Bay is the first wine appellation for Nova Scotia. A white wine with unique character, it brilliantly reflects the terroir, coastal breezes and cooler climate of our region. Described as the very essence of Nova Scotia in a glass, it is cool, crisp, lively and aromatic. The perfect pairing for our local seafood or for socializing with friends. R E F R ES H I N G LY N OVA SCOT I A N .
T I DA L BAY.C A
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Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Craig Pinhey, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Jonathan Smithe, Tim Pawsey, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Silvana Lau, Treve Ring CREATIVE DIRECTOR
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India. Not necessarily for the wine, but for the culture and people. I think they are a lot like the Italians, placing a huge importance on family, hospitality and coming together to enjoy a meal. And of course, I’d practise some yoga too. SUBSCRIPTION RATES Canada: $42.99 per year, $69.99 per 2 years; USA: $62.99 per year; Other: $89.99 per year. Single Copies: $7.95. Quench, Food and Drink Magazine, (founded in 1972) is a registered trademark of Kylix Media and is published 8 times a year: (February/ March, April, May/June, July/August, September, October, November, December/January). Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. ©2018 Kylix Media Inc.
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Michaela Morris is an international wine writer, educator, judge and speaker based in Vancouver with frequent engagements in Italy. Besides writing for Quench, she contributes to Meininger’s Wine Business International and Decanter online and print magazines. She is a certified Italian Wine Expert through Vinitaly International Academy (VIA) and is currently a 2nd stage student of the Institute of Masters of Wine. Michaela judges for competitions such as The Judgement of BC, Decanter World Wine Awards and Vinitaly’s 5StarWines. WHAT PART OF THE WORLD WOULD YOU MOST LIKE TO VISIT?
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Treve Ring is a wine writer and editor, wine judge and speaker, and endless traveller. A certified sommelier, WSET diploma holder, French wine scholar and Sherry instructor, she is based on Vancouver Island, though she is most often found on a plane or in a vineyard. She has spent the last few years concentrating on and researching sparkling wine globally. WHAT PART OF THE WORLD WOULD YOU MOST LIKE TO VISIT?
Right now, I’m exceptionally keen to get back to Champagne. I’m inspired by the growth in single vineyard wines, alternative aging vessels, confidence in grower champagne, and the rise in organics/ biodynamics. This is an exciting and revolutionary time to track one of the most traditional and formal of wine regions.
SEPTEMBER 2018 7
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DISCOVERING BARBERA D’ASTI DOCG A WINE WITH A STORY TO TELL
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arbera d’Asti DOCG is a unique wine, capable like no other to be a sincere expression of its motherland: the hills of the Monferrato area, in Piedmont. This wine is also strictly connected to the history and the tradition of this land as it was born as an everyday wine that accompanied the life and work of the winemakers. Then in 2008, it was recognized as a Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) becoming in short time a top-level appellation and the most exported Piedmontese wine. All that thanks to the producers’ constant care and attention to the cultivation of the vines and winemaking process but also, to the protective and promotional activities of the Consorzio Barbera d’Asti e Vini del Monferrato under the guidance of President Filippo Mobrici, the agronomist of Bersano winery.
MONFER DPS IN F
BARBERA D’ASTI DOCG SOILS AND STYLES
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t is obtained from the best grapes of the native vine variety barbera grown in the beautiful scenery of the Monferrato hills. A land incredibly suitable to the production of great wines. Here, we can find mainly two types of soils: the first are marly calcareous soils, rich in calcium carbonate and located on soft slopes and the second, the Asti area sands, located on steeper slopes. The wines produced from the grapes of the first soils are rich in color and body and maintain well over time. While wines from the Asti area sands are characterized by low acidity and an immediate drinkability.
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hanks to this richness in soils Barbera d’Asti DOCG can be both a fresh and easy to drink wine, as well as a complex wine that can evolve over the years. Among the winemakers, there are two varying styles of production: fermentation in steel for a fresh wine that can be enjoyed young or aging in barrels and barrique as is the case for Barbera d’Asti Superiore DOCG (must age at least six months in oak), a wine with complex aromas and taste, designed for a deferred consumption over time.
RRATO FOLDER A WINE FOR MANY DISHES
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his diversity in styles and the varietal profile of this wine, which is characterized by intense fruit aromas, vibrant and crunchy acidity and low tannins, make Barbera d’Asti DOCG incredibly versatile in food pairings. It can be great companion not only for meat and cheese dishes but also with pasta and even with fish, such as local delicacy salt cod, known as “baccalà”.
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UMAMI LISA HOEKSTRA
FIGHTING THE SUSTAINABLE FIGHT WHEN OCEAN WISE EXECUTIVE CHEF NED BELL was a
child, he didn’t know that he would one day become one of the top Canadian chefs advocating for sustainable seafood practices. All he knew was that he truly enjoyed cooking. “My mom … didn’t love cooking that much because she was out there raising the family and working at night,” Bell explains. “I started cooking for my brother and sister when I was 12, and I realized how food brought us together as siblings. I quickly fell in love with the food business, with what food does. It’s the one thing that connects every human.” While Bell is now passionate about sustainable seafood, he wasn’t always aware of the issue. “When I first moved to Toronto in 1997, no one was talking about sustainability. No one was talking about the fact that some of the species we were celebrating were at risk,” Bell explains. “Really the global sustainable seafood movement is only about two decades old.” “It’s important to me on multiple levels. First, as a father of three, and somebody who cares about the environment and the ecosystem and the world that we live in,” explains Bell. “Secondly, as a chef, I am only as good as the ingredients and the access to those ingredients. What if I’m in love something specific, then suddenly because of climate change or an unreliable season or extinction or over-fishing, I can’t cook with that ingredient anymore? I cannot continue to be a part of the problem by doing nothing,” he explains. “We have to start challenging people to do more. They have to pay attention to where the ingredients are coming from, how they’re ending up on their plates.” 10 @ QUENCH_MAG
When Bell was offered the job with Ocean Wise to be their executive chef at the Vancouver Aquarium, he just had to take it. “I’ve risked it all to dive as deep as I can into this,” Bell says. “I had a dream job and I left to work here. But the value that I get from doing the work I’m doing is so much bigger than me. I wake up every day and I can’t wait to chase the next opportunity and spread the message.” “I feel like people say ‘What can I do?’,” Bell mentions. “You can do a ton. I’m one chef, who has, in a short decade, raised awareness for sustainability because I dove deep. But there’s a lot of spirited, passionate environmentalists out there who are doing more, going above and beyond to affect change. Baby steps are good enough, but I wish that we would take some larger leaps.” Bell’s journey from award-winning chef to fierce advocate for the seas is an inspiring one that encourages everyone, from the home cook to the professional chef, to really analyze what they’re eating every day. The future, for him, is one where Mother Nature has recovered from our pollution and consumers are conscious of what they put on their plates. “It’s kind of extraordinary to think about the world’s oceans and this resource that Mother Nature gives us. It’s not our right to just go harvest it at an unsustainable rate,” Bell says. “The work that I do today has nothing to do with next year; the work that I do today has everything to do with a hundred years from now. I want to make sure that we still have wild salmon in 100 years.” × PHOTO: OCEAN WISE
LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO
A MIX OF THINGS LONG BEFORE THE SOYACCINO, THERE WAS HORCHATA.
Made from rice (and sometimes almonds), horchata is the original non-dairy “milk” — a refreshing, cold beverage that looks like milk, drinks like milk, but isn’t actually milk. That makes it perfect for vegans and just about anyone who dislikes the cloying mouthfeel of cow’s milk, since it’s a little bit lighter and thinner but still quite rich-tasting. To craft-cocktail bartenders, though, horchata represents something even bigger, namely, the key to resuscitating a whole swath of “guilty pleasure cocktails,” such as the Grasshopper, the Brandy Alexander and even the Dude’s favourite, the White Russian. These creamy drinks have mostly fallen out of fashion at bars that specialize in spirit-forward drinks because dairy is a total palate killer and it’s hard for the subtle notes of, say, a finely-aged rum or tequila to shine through. Horchata, on the other hand, is a little less of a flavour bully. Jhol Spindler, general manager of Victoria, BC’s Café Mexico, doesn’t need any convincing. He offers cold horchata straight-up, in a latté and mixed with tequila or mezcal in a horchata slushy. “There are a lot of people in Victoria who don’t want to drink milk either because they’re vegans or are lactose-intolerant,” says Spindler. “So having something that comes from rice × VISIT WWW.QUENCH.ME/MIXED/ FOR MORE DRINK RECIPES
and almond milk is great for people who want to have a creamy, milky kind of drink without actually doing dairy. That’s made us pretty popular.” Most of the people ordering the horchata mezcal and tequila cocktails, though, aren’t doing it for health reasons. People just love the way the drinks taste, since horchata is a natural fit with Latin flavours. Spindler’s done one-offs mixing horchata with housemade espresso liqueurs, spicy tinctures, banana liqueur and even bourbon. “I think we even did an Old Fashioned that was based on a Mexican rice pudding flavour with a little horchata,” he says. “A lot of the things we have here work really well with cinnamon or vanilla and the horchata is great at blending different ingredients together, especially ingredients that have a lot of smoke and depth of flavour.” It’s just one of those plays-well-with-others ingredients that acts as a natural cocktail “binder” — with an uncanny ability to make disparate flavour notes work together. That’s a handy ingredient to have in your back pocket, something an increasing number of bartenders are starting to realize. Inti, a Peruvian restaurant in Calgary, offers a boozy take on Tres Leches (a rich and creamy Latin dessert) that mixes up Pisco and horchata; Lo Pan in Toronto offers a delicious horchata Pina Colada and Vancouver’s La Mezcaleria mixes up sherry and horchata in La Carajillo. Perfect only for a column called the “Lazy Mixologist,” most bartenders endorse using a shortcut for making horchata as opposed to making it from scratch. Spindler uses almond “milk” and rice “milk” for his (recipe to follow) to make his delicious tequila and mezcal-horchata concoctions.
MEZCAL HORCHATA SLUSHY
2 oz Los Siete Misterios Mezcal 3 oz horchata (recipe below) 5 ice cubes
Blend together and serve with a dusting of cinnamon.
HORCHATA
10 7 3 1/4
oz rice milk oz almond milk oz cinnamon syrup** tsp vanilla extract
Blend together and chill. ** Cinnamon syrup: Bring 1 1/2 cups sugar, 1 cup water and 4 cinnamon sticks to a boil. Cool, let sit for an hour, strain and refrigerate. × SEPTEMBER 2018 11
PREP KITCHEN
COLOUR ME GINGER
The health benefits of ginger can’t be denied. Whether it’s in a tea or pickled as a palate cleanser, this root has been used throughout history to solve life’s digestive problems. But have you ever thought about using ginger to clean ... well anything. For those of us looking for less toxic ways to clean our homes, here is a recipe that’s sure to wipe that all away. 750 ml distilled white vinegar Juice from 1 lemon Peel from 2 lemons Peel from 1 orange 2-4 inch piece of fresh ginger root, sliced Fill a one litre mason jar with all the ingredients. Shake and place in a cool spot for 2 to 3 weeks. Once it has fully infused, strain and fill a spray bottle with the lovely smelling (if you are into vinegar) liquid. Clean at will.
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LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC
MA CHE SIETE VENUTI A FÀ
LA TERRA DELLA BIRRA It’s no question that Italy is a country run on wine. Since the ancient times, wine has always been a part of everyday life, with gods and festivals devoted to the drink. When the Greeks came to Italy, they called the region they were in Oenotria, the land of wine, which then became a name to describe Southern Italy. This beautiful country has attracted people from all over the globe to visit its many wineries. But with that, I’d be remiss to not talk about the excellent beer that can be had in the country as well. While Italy has never been short on good beer, craft beer has been a movement that, much like in a lot of the world, has been rising over the years. As a result, we’ve been seeing some truly unique offerings, with breweries taking influences from America, England, Germany and Belgium. Some have even developed an exquisite, distinctly Italian twist with their beers taking into account the tastes of the residents of the Land of Wine. In Piozzo, for instance, you’ll find one of the many locations of Le Baladin, a cozy brewpub that has been brewing since 1996. Of note is the complex nine-spiced Wayan Saison, the beautifully sour cherry richness of the Mama Kriek, and the Nazionale, a beer made with 100 percent Italian ingredients, including bergamot and coriander, that is at once captivating to the imagination and beautifully simple. Another brewery based out of Turin in the Marentino area is Loverbeer. Their Madamin sour amber ale, which was fermented and matured in oak vats, is a harmonious dance between tart berries and rich malts, with the oak dryness coming through very well.
But for the traveller in a rush who wants to try as many Italian and International beers as possible, one need look no further than the city of Rome. Not too long ago, I was staying a 30-second walk away from Campo di Fiori, a bustling historical square in Ancient Rome with a monument to philosopher Giordano Bruno in the centre. While it is a rather touristy area, the square is full of lively activity day and night, and worth seeing. From there, a quick nine-minute walk across the Tiber River will take you to a small side street where you’ll find the only two bars you’ll ever need to visit. Bir & Fud is a building with the longest bar of local and international beers on tap you’ve seen and a lovely dining space in the back. Directly across the street from there is Ma Che Siete Venuti A Fà, the only tiny craft beer gem worth going to, with a staggeringly good tap selection and rare bottle collection. For the ultimate Roman experience, do yourself a favour and order a pint of something tasty in the small bar and join the rest of the customers out front to people watch in the dark, tiny, always busy road. Saluti! × SEPTEMBER 2018 13
TBY BRIE DEMA
THOMAS BACHELDER MINERALITÉ CHARDONNAY 2014, VQA NIAGARA PENINSULA, ONTARIO ($20)
WINEMAKING GYPSY THOMAS BACHELDER IS A CANADIAN WINE ICON. His
years spent at Le Clos Jordanne winery in the early 2000’s brought international recognition to the young and growing Niagara region. His passion for cool-climate viticulture has led him to start his own label working with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in Niagara, Oregon and Burgundy; in his terms, a wandering wine gypsy of sorts. In my opinion, his most moving wines are the ones he crafts here at home, though his talent is evident in each and every bottle. There is something to be said for his intuitive winemaking and fruit selection, as even his entry level offerings are pure magic. I urge you to try his top bottlings, which for the most part I would stow away in the cellar over the short term, but his vin de soif style produced in Niagara are both perfect for drinking now.
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As the name suggests, this exhibits a mineral snap over bright, precise lemon zest and apple blossom. It is lean, with a kiss of oak and subtle spice, and just enough open expression to the green apple and pear fruit profile. Reductive, but in an “adds complexity” kinda way, with a flinty smoky note. A baby sibling to the more structured and riper Wismer Vineyard bottlings, but oh so good. THOMAS BACHELDER PARFUM PINOT NOIR 2014, VQA NIAGARA PENINSULA, ONTARIO ($20)
Again, the name hints at the style of liquid in the glass. Super pale in colour, with aromas of strawberries and red plums, delicate rose petal and violet. That same light spice comes through on this as in the Mineralité, and to me, shows that Thomas has a gift with using oak barrels as a complement and not a cover up. Lovely balance on the palate, and despite being quite delicate, has enough concentration of fruit. ×
BON VIVANT PETER ROCKWELL
Why does the Chianti Classico region use a black rooster as an emblem?
ILLUSTRATION: MATT DALEY/SHINYPLIERS.COM
Having been to Chianti a few times, I’ll freely admit that I can’t remember there being an overpopulation of roosters running the roads or bringing my mornings alive with a chorus of cock-a-doodle-doos. Maybe I’m a heavy sleeper. Anyway, at first glance around the region you’d think there’d be plenty of other more iconic Chianti-esque symbols to slap on a sign. My vote would go to the Cypress tree — you can’t swing a rooster without hitting one. While you can dismiss them as fake news, the internet offers a number of variations on the now classic story of why the black rooster is so revered in Chianti. The best one involves the historic feud between the cities of Florence and Siena. Sitting on either side of the region, the two had been fighting over who owns what real estate for centuries. From a modern perspective, Florence and Siena are very close to each other. Today it would take less than 90 minutes by car to make the 70 kilometre trek from one to the other. Back in the 13th century, when the rivalry was at its apex, the trip would have seemed like it took forever. A competition to see who could do it the fastest was agreed upon to officially decide where one city’s boundary began and the other’s ended. Rather than an all-out horse race, both Florence and Siena chose a rider who, at the crack of dawn on the designated day, would take off at top speed towards the opposite city. Where the two met would decide where the border line would be drawn. Here’s where the bird comes in. Rather than assign a human to prod each rider into action, the task was assigned to, you guessed it, roosters. Siena supposedly chose a fat white one assuming its gluttony would get it up bright and early. Over in Florence, they starved a black one, hoping its malnourishment would spur it into action as soon as the first rays of light appeared. It turned out that the hunger game worked. The black rooster crowed first; giving the Florentine competitor a huge edge on his rival and allowing him to cover way more territory before the inevitable hook-up some 12 kilometres from Siena’s front door. With most of Chianti now under its control, Florence designated their feathered hero the symbol of their territory or what we know call Chianti Classico. The end. × × ASK YOUR QUESTIONS AT BONVIVANT @ QUENCH.ME
SEPTEMBER 2018 15
THERE IS INK IN THERE by Jonathan Smithe
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Squid ink seems like a very Italian thing, but it is used up and down Europe in colourful ways. Whether it is in a seafood paella or a shock of black in a London cocktail, this unique ingredient has some suprising health benefits you might not realize.
It’s not surprising that most dishes using squid ink are seafood heavy. After all, the earthy, somewhat briny liquid screams, “I am from the sea.” Not only is this dark liquid filled with antioxidants (a buzz word of our time), it has iron and glutamic acid, an amino acid used to build proteins. With all that goodness packed into a small package, I had to find some and test it out. It’s definitely not the easiest ingredient to get your hands on. That being said, you can find cuttlefish ink in some Asian markets (and even on Amazon). But once you get your hands on it, what is one to do? At first, I simply added a dash to a not-so-exiting omelet. It wasn’t a miss but I wasn’t “so exited”. Next up was a traditional Venetian Risotto al Nero di Seppia. Now we’re getting there. It only has a teaspoon of squid ink but everything comes together with the addition of actual squid. That’s where the ink ingredient shines. I was hooked, and needed to try one more thing — fresh squid ink pasta. Poor skills aside, this is where it went from why to wow. Paired with a white wine cream sauce, pan seared scallops and a healthy dose of Parmesan cheese, it was exquisite. It might be easier for you to find ready-made squid ink pasta at your grocery store or specialty market. It’s worth picking up for a unique taste of the sea.
SQUID INK PASTA IN A CREAMY GARLIC SAUCE 2 450 2 2 2 60
About 10 medium-sized scallops tbsp olive oil g squid ink pasta, cooked and drained tbsp butter cloves garlic tbsp heavy cream Salt and pepper g lump crab meat Oregano, for garnish Grape tomatoes, sliced in half Parmesan cheese
1. In a small frying pan over medium-high heat add the olive oil. Pat dry the scallops, season and add to the pan. Sear to golden brown on each side. Set aside. 2. Cook the pasta as per instructions and set aside. 3. In a large skillet over medium heat, melt the butter and add the garlic. Sauté until fragrant. 4. Add the cream and heat through (about 5 minutes). Season with salt and pepper. Add the cooked pasta and toss, then add the scallops and lump crab meat. Coat everything in the sauce, being careful not to break up the pasta. 5. When it’s time to serve, garnish with grape tomatoes, oregano and cheese. Serve immediately. MATCH: Works well with a Pinot Noir from New Zealand or — if you are adventurous — a Provence Rosé like the Château la Tour de l’Évêque. × SEPTEMBER 2018 17
DON’T
by Tod Stewart
MAKE IT YOURSELF It’s over. Finally. And thank God for that.
BRENT PRESTON
While the never-ending winter of 2017–2018 gave all of us in Canada plenty of opportunity to binge watch Netflix, rediscover the joys of cooking at home and develop a major case of claustrophobic shack whack, we have now shed our cocoons and, butterfly-like, fluttered out to rediscover the world.
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Though the time spent in your winter kitchen probably goes a long way in honing your knife skills, you’re no doubt ready to hang up your apron — or at least turn it over to someone else. So here are a few alternatives to get you out of your own cooking space. Perhaps even explore someone else’s kitchen that’s actually located within another kitchen. Let me explain … There’s a kitchen in downtown Toronto’s Westin Harbour Castle Hotel. “Yeah, duh!” you say. But wait. There’s also another kitchen inside this kitchen. (Ha! Didn’t see that coming, did ya?) Savoury is the name of the kitchen within a kitchen. It’s also a restaurant. Sort of. I’ll explain. Actually, no, I’ll let Savoury’s chef, Corbin Tomaszeski (of Food Network fame), do the explaining. It’s his ship, after all. “The vision behind Savoury is simple: work with quality ingredients to create a memorable experience that will stay with those who dine with us forever. By using locally sourced ingredients and preparing them in a way unique to my style, I want to ensure each guest feels as though they’ve been invited into my own personal kitchen, in my own home.” So, if you have a group of people (minimum five, maximum 10), I’d highly recommend you give Savoury a try. My experience there was indeed memorable. Not only was the food excellent and creatively prepared by Tomaszeski and sous chef Matt Munro, there were also unique wine matches courtesy of sommelier Jeremy Ennis. Not only was the experience a gastronomic treat, but it was also something of a show as Tomaszeski, Munro and Ennis played off each other in a thoroughly entertaining way.
ANGELO BEAN
ANOTHER OPTION, IF YOU’RE INTERESTED IN AVAILING YOURSELF to
(and dining in) someone else’s kitchen but want to sharpen your culinary chops at the same time, involves a trip to scenic Prince Edward County. Home to a maturing but still growing wine culture and a burgeoning micro-brewing scene, the County is also quickly becoming a culinary destination. When he retired from his position with the Ontario provincial liquor board, Angelo Bean packed up his love of food, wine and entertainment — and most of his worldly possessions — and headed off to the County. Already established as a producer of artisanal sausages and cured meats, Bean saw it fit to offer his culinary knowledge to others via the Angelo Bean Italian Cooking Studio. With a home kitchen decked out in high-end industrial restaurant guise, Bean offers Italian cooking classes that are informative, entertaining and, ultimately, deliciously rewarding.
“My classes offer an experience in food entertainment,” Bean explains. “Students come to my home to experience my life in the County. The cantina, the décor, the outdoor settings ... everything has a story and a meaning.” When asked what makes his particular classes unique, Bean says, “They are totally unique, like taking a trip back in time. They are original; all recipes and content are my own. There are no standard recipes. They are personal: guests become immediate friends as they come through the door. The classes are simple but extremely complex in the details.” Bean sources ingredients from the County first, Ontario second and then Italy for ingredients not available locally. Classes are generally attended by eight to 10 people and will occasionally have themes, such as Pasta 101 and 102, risotto, sauces, sausage making, salumi tasting and tasting menus. My visit included a hearty (and very tasty) multicourse tasting menu. SEPTEMBER 2018 19
SOMMELIÈRE REBECCA MEÏR-LIEBMAN
IF BEAN’S EMPHASIS ON LOCAL INGREDIENTS APPEALS TO YOU, feasting
on meals prepared from stuff literally grown in the backyard might be your ultimate indulgence. This kind of experience can be found in the form of The New Farm Kitchen. Located on the crest of the Niagara Escarpment, west of Creemore, Ontario, The New Farm is a certified organic family farm, owned and operated by the husband-and-wife team of Gillian Flies and Brent Preston. The New Farm Kitchen is an event and education space constructed to exacting energy efficiency and environmental standards. The space features a state-of-the-art commercial kitchen and a 25-seat dining room, plus room for an additional 25 people on a covered patio. It also sports two bunkrooms to accommodate a few overnight guests. The New Farm Kitchen bills itself as “… a place for educators, food industry professionals and all those interested in increasing access to good food to meet, learn and cook.” It’s a great location for corporate retreats, fundraisers, educational activities and pop-up dining. The Kitchen also hosts a series of seasonal dining events. “Each dinner will be unique, and will feature produce grown just a few metres from where it is served,” says Preston. These are private dining ex20 @ QUENCH_MAG
periences for groups of up to 24 people (individual tickets are not sold). The multicourse meal comes complete with wine and drinks, and the price is all-in. Meals are crafted by well-known local chefs and/ or food industry professionals. If you choose to book The New Farm Kitchen for an event (or even if you don’t), consider picking up a copy of the Preston-penned book The New Farm: Our Ten Years on the Front Lines of the Good Food Revolution. It’s an extremely entertaining read that details the trials, tribulations and ultimate rewards of uprooting from the pressures of city living to experience the very different pressures (and pleasures) of establishing an organic farm from scratch — and watching it succeed. OF COURSE, THERE’S ANOTHER POSSIBILITY when it comes to having a food
and wine experience tailor made for you. Chef Eyal Liebman and sommelière Rebecca Meïr-Liebman are the team behind Chef & Somm Bespoke Dining Experiences. Find a location — maybe your place, maybe someone else’s (boardrooms and yachts are also fair game if you’re a Wolf of Wall Street type) — and, as long as it has a kitchen, the Chef & Somm team will craft a five-star dinner for you and pair each course with perfect (and often surprising) wine choices.
Be it an intimate dinner for two or a soirée for a group of up to 35 (better be a large yacht), the Chef & Somm duo works with clients to come up with luxurious, custom dining experiences that showcase culinary art. “A musician turned into a cook, with a detour through film and theatre, Eyal is an artist first and a cook second,” explains Meïr-Liebman. “His food walks the thin line between art and flavour. He tells a story through his menus, and brings an artistic expression to his plates. Each menu he creates is a one-off.” Meïr-Liebman goes on to explain that the wines served are chosen not merely for their quality, but also for how they connect to the “culinary story” the duo is telling. “Wine,” as she eloquently notes, “can’t be judged just by quality of juice. Do we appreciate the differences between Picasso and Dali by the quality of paint they used or maybe how they stretched the canvas? The story of the food is often tailored to match the story of the wine in our dinners. “The experience that we give is beyond tasty food and delicious wine — that combination is easy to find! It is something that most restaurants offer. We walk you through a story that is tailored to each one of our clients — the food, the wine, the atmosphere — everything is bespoke with us.” ×
THE SURPRISE TRANSPLANT by Michael Pinkus
Italy is responsible for bringing us so many wonderful things: pizza, pasta, osso bucco, risotto, Tic Tacs, Ferrero Rocher and, of course, wine from some pretty awesome indigenous grape varieties like Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Primitivo. Then there are styles like Brunello, Barolo and Prosecco, not to mention the Super Tuscans that put Italy on the map with fine wines made from the French grapes we all know and love: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.
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LA BRACCESCA SYRAH BRAMASOLE 2012, CORTONA DOC ($47)
The 100% Syrah from this Antinori property is pure Syrah goodness with blackberry, black cherry, smoke and cinnamon — and at 6 years old, this wine still has plenty of life left in it. LA BRACCESCA SYRAH ACHELO 2016, CORTONA DOC ($25)
This entry-level Antinori-property Syrah has lovely black cherry and smoke with a touch of vanilla and oakiness on the finish, but it’s the fruit forwardness that most stands out. FABRIZIO DIONISIO SYRAH IL CASTAGNO 2015, CORTONA DOC ($20)
Mocha and black cherry lead things off adding in a dark fruit component and slight tanginess on the finish. BARACCHI SYRAH SMERIGLIO 2015, CORTONA DOC ($25)
Meaty and smoky with just the right amount of black cherry to make it feel more like a wine and not a sandwich. ROBERTA PASINI SYRAH DI EGO 2015, CORTONA DOC ($25)
A simple Syrah that has lively red fruit and anise with a black cherry finish. GIANNONI FABBRI SYRAH AMATO 2015, CORTONA DOC ($20)
This wine starts off pretty and just never lets up: red fruit, floral, mocha-cherry and liquorice all touched gently by a hint of oak. DAL CERO SYRAH KLANIS 2012, CORTONA DOC ($52)
Although one of the oldest wines I tried, this was still a baby. Meaty, blueberry and smoky notes kicked it off and the fruit on the finish was dark and brooding. Needs another 2 to 3 years. DAL CERO SYRAH SELVERELLO 2015, CORTONA DOC ($21)
Lip-smackingly good Syrah with juicy cherry, red liquorice and wood smoke leading to a smoked meat finish. BALDETTI ALFONSO SYRAH CRANO 2013, CORTONA DOC ($20)
Typical Syrah starting with white pepper and meaty notes, but when the black fruit sweeps in, you’re in for a treat. VILLA LOGGIO SYRAH TINIA 2015, CORTONA DOC ($15)
Nice layering of coffee, mocha and black cherry with a subtle smokiness on the finish.
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But what about Syrah? Sure, it is used as a blending grape, as any good Italian chef would use seasoning in his or her pasta sauce, but what about a standalone Italian Syrah? Do you have any interest in that? I am sure your answer is somewhere between “no” and “not really.” That is until now. Allow me to introduce you to Cortona on the outskirts of the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano appellation — what many of us would consider “Greater Tuscany.” Located in the eastern part of this area, at 585 metres above sea level and overlooking the Valdichiana, the Cortona DOC takes up only about 300 hectares of space, but with the growing popularity of its wines — and Syrah in particular — the territory is eyeing expansion. Currently, one million bottles a year are labelled as Cortona DOC. But how did this France grape find its way into a country that prizes its own indigenous grapes? Syrah is said to have come from France by way of the two other areas that proclaim its origin: the Middle East and the Mediterranean through Napoleon’s conquest and occupation of the area. Another story recounts the Count of Montecarlo di Luca bringing back some vines after a trip to France at the beginning of the 20th century. The first production of Syrah started in Arezzo and then moved to find a more permanent home in Cortona, where it has stayed and thrived. While Cortona claims other reds like Merlot and Sangiovese within its borders, Syrah makes up a whopping 80 percent of that production — so it is firmly entrenched there. Time to discover it. ×
SWEET by Michaela Morris
DREAMS
SEPTEMBER 2018 23
When it comes to wine, Sicily is Italy’s It Girl. For the last decade, the reds of Mount Etna have been all the rage. More recently, Grillo has erupted in popularity as exuberantly as one of the region’s many volcanoes, establishing itself as Sicily’s flagship white next to red counterpart Nero d’Avola. Yet Sicily’s success doesn’t just lie with its dry wines. Sweet wines are the original flag bearers. So, despite being a steadfast salt hound, I made the trek to Sicily to hunt for sugary tonics.
“No wine has a story like sweet wine,” declares Master of Wine Demetri Walters, “and they have been with us for thousands of years.” He is leading a masterclass in the must-visit city of Palermo. The Greeks were crafting sweet elixirs in Sicily as far back as the 8th and 7th Century BC. Their technique of choice was to partially dry the grapes before crushing them, concentrating the sugars for stronger, more resilient wines. This process, known as appassimento, is still common today, not just in Sicily but throughout Italy. Also, it is used for both sweet and dry wines (think Amarone). In Sicily, the dry climate and relentless sun support drying grapes outside on straw mats. The resulting sweet wines are thus characterized by an extra sun-kissed, baked quality and have an intense dried-fruit deliciousness to them. Passito wines, as they are called, differ from late-harvest wines in that the grapes are usually picked much earlier. Doing so helps preserve refreshing acidity, crucial to 24 @ QUENCH_MAG
balancing these luscious treats. They are equally distinct from botrytis-affected wines like Sauternes and Tokay, which are marked by noble rot. Pantelleria is Sicily’s poster child for passito. Often referred to as the black pearl, this volcanic island sits on the 26th parallel, closer to Tunisia than to Sicily. Besides being extremely arid, the island is battered by wind. The name Pantelleria comes from the Arabic Bent el Riah, or “daughter of the wind.” And in the hours leading up to my scheduled flight to the island, she was throwing a howling tantrum. I was told that 70 knots per hour is normal, but surely that is hurricane force ... I didn’t quite believe I would actually make it to Pantelleria until I was buckled up in my airplane seat staring down at the dark mass rising out of the Mediterranean. Safely on the ground, I immediately appreciated the squat architecture and low-lying vegetation. Bush vines are planted in shallow depressions called conca. Not only does this give some protection from the wind, but it also allows dew to collect overnight, providing the vine with precious moisture. Dry stone walls offer further shelter while also serving to curb erosion and delimit growers’ small parcels. Besides vines, olives and capers mingle with pink peppercorns, figs, wild fennel, lemons, oranges and carob in this sneaky Garden of Eden. Many of these flavours are echoed in the wines. Amazingly, one single grape variety dominates the island — Zibibbo, aka Moscato di Alessandria. Often (unfairly) considered inferior to its parent Moscato Bianco (Muscat Blanc à Petit Grain), Zibibbo comes into its own on Pantelleria. Most of the grapes — approximately 75 percent — are destined to make sweet wine in one form or another. A little bit is late harvested and called Moscato di Pantelleria, but a lot more is fortified to produce Moscato or Passito Liquoroso. The most impressive wine, however is the “natural” Passito. After drying in the sun for a cou-
ANTONIO, GABRIELLA AND JOSÉ RALLO FROM DONNAFUGATA
SEPTEMBER 2018 25
COSTE GHIRLANDA ALCOVA 2012, PASSITO DI PANTELLERIA DOC ($40)
Ex-basketball pro Giulia Pazienza Gelmetti established this 11-hectare estate after immediately falling in love with the island in 2001. An explosion of fig, sultana and raisin cake, this wine is full-bodied and unctuous with a touch molasses and lots of orange marmalade to finish. DONNAFUGATA BEN RYÉ 2015, PASSITO DI PANTELLERIA DOC ($40)
A gorgeous expression of honey, candied orange peel and subtle caramel nuances. The intense sweetness is brilliantly countered by an appetizing saline edge. While I love drinking this wine fresh and young, tasting a couple of older vintages demonstrated its ability to age. Caramel and fig notes were dialled up in the 2008 while the 2005 offered an exotic mix of coffee, bouillon and dried herb. DONNAFUGATA KABIR 2017, MOSCATO DI PANTELLERIA DOC ($30)
Neither dried nor late harvested, the grapes for Kabir come from a specific site that naturally yields super-ripe Zibibbo. It is lower in alcohol (11%) and half the residual sugar of Ben Ryé. While not as complex, it does possess lovely peach and orange sorbet notes along with a snap of pink peppercorn. Perfect for lighter desserts. BAGLIO DI PIANETTO RA’IS ESSENZA MOSCATO 2012, IGP TERRE SICILIANE ($30)
This wine hails from the area of Noto in Sicily’s southeast where lofty temperatures encourage Moscato Bianco grapes to raisin directly on the vine. A mouthful of orange and peach flowers, almonds, vanilla and honey, it makes me crave crème brûlée.
BAGLIO DI PIANETTO’S RENATO DE BARTOLI
ple of weeks, the grapes are added either to fermenting must or to fully fermented wine for a massive boost of sugar. Rich enough to stand up to the sweetest of puddings, Passito di Pantelleria sports intense aromas of sultanas, figs and marmalade. Though not particularly high in acidity, the best wnes have a tactile grip and slight bitterness that lends surprising balance. Despite hundreds of grape growers here, few actually make wine. Among the island’s nine consortium wineries, the largest is Donnafugata, which set up shop here in 1989. Their passito, Ben Ryé, is the flagship of their Pantelleria production. Owner Antonio Rallo describes that it takes a whopping four kilograms of grapes to produce one litre of wine, more than double what is required for most regular wine. Add that to the 50 percent loss in crop due to wind damage and it is evident that they aren’t out to make an easy buck. “At the start, we gave it away for free just to get people to know it,” claims Rallo. Alas, I was not of legal drinking age back then. Today Donnafugata’s Ben Ryé is one of Italy’s most well known and beloved dessert wines, and has put Pantelleria on the modern wine map. BY NO MEANS EXCLUSIVE TO PANTELLERIA, SWEET WINES POP UP IN EVERY POCKET OF SICILY. To the region’s northeast,
the blustery Aeolian archipelago gets its moniker from Aeolus, the god of wind. Born from two active volcanoes, this group of eight islands is also referred to as the Lipari Islands after the larg26 @ QUENCH_MAG
GORGHI TONDI GRILLODORO 2015, IGP TERRE SICILIANE ($45)
est in the chain. As on Pantelleria, sweet wine harks back to antiquity and wines are still largely made with sun-dried grapes today, though a small portion of late-harvest wine is also produced. Called Malvasia delle Lipari, these rare treasures were given a new lease on life when Milan artist/designer Carlo Hauner started making wine here in the 1960s. Without him, this wine might have fallen completely into oblivion. Even nowadays, less than a dozen producers exist and vineyards total a mere 90 hectares. While the setting might sound similar to Pantelleria, here the wines are made from the rare Malvasia di Lipari grape. Comparing it to Zibibbo, winemaker Pietro Colosi of Cantine Colosi says, “Malvasia di Lipari does not produce as much sugar, is higher in acidity and has more delicate flavours.” The resulting wines are elegant and fresh despite their sweetness. Along with exquisite apricot flavours, I find that appealing notes of herbal tea add complexity and intrigue. While the passito would be lovely with fruitbased desserts, Colosi suggests pairing the late-harvest wines, which are less sweet and concentrated, with fresh or aged cheese. At the aforementioned masterclass, Walters introduced a whole host of sweet treats made from a variety of techniques and grapes. Beyond passito and late harvests, some producers are playing with botrytis-affected grapes while others are experimenting with non-indigenous varieties, such as Sémillon and Gewürztraminer. In all cases, these experiments typically represent a small slice of the winery’s total production. “The difficulty of sweet wines is that they are seasonal in appeal,” laments Walters. “They are consumed at the end of the meal when entertaining, mostly in winter and above all at Christmas.” That is a pretty slim window of opportunity. So why do producers persist? “We need to respect nature, the native varieties and our traditions, because this is what makes us different from Tuscany or Veneto,” responds Marco Bernabei, consulting oenologist at Baglio di Pianetto, whose 2000-bottle production of Ra’is Essenza is made from Moscato Bianco grapes that have been dried on the vine. “It is a longer, more difficult road, but in the long run it is much more satisfying.” Put that way, I, for one, feel compelled to drink more of these decadent delights. And after a few days under the spell of Sicily, they quickly become hard to resist. The trick now is hunting them down at home. ×
A one-of-a-kind wine. Unlike Sicily’s passito wines, which are typically made with fully aromatic grapes, Grillodoro is crafted from the semi-aromatic Grillo variety. Furthermore, the grapes are late harvested and a small portion has been affected by noble rot. The result is a rich and textured wine with apricot jam and subtle marzipan. FEUDO ARANCIO HEKATE PASSITO 2014, IGP TERRE SICILIANE ($40)
Another charming and sweet curiosity, Hekate blends native cohorts Zibibbo, Grillo and Inzolia with non-indigenous Sémillon, each harvested at different times and air-dried on trellis wires. All lemon verbena tea on a backbone of vibrant acidity. CANTINE COLOSI NA’JM MALVASIA DELLE LIPARI 2014, DOC PASSITO ($35)
Made from grapes that are dried in the sun during the day and brought inside at dusk to protect them from overnight dew, this passito is understated yet captivating. Iced mint tea and dried apricot make way for mineral and balsamic notes to emerge on the palate.
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THE PARADOX by Evan Saviolidis
BEFORE HEADING TO THE ANNUAL SICILIA EN PRIMEUR TASTING IN PALERMO, I WAS REFLECTING ON THE MAIN FACTORS THAT HAVE CONTRIBUTED TO THE RISE OF SICILIAN WINE GLOBALLY, AND CAME UP WITH THE FOLLOWING. First, the wine world currently has a predilection to-
wards indigenous varietals. With over one million wine brands worldwide based on notables such as Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Cabernet and Syrah, people are looking for something different. Second, unwooded, high-acid wines are in fashion. Third, most Sicilian wines are certified organic. Last, Etna, which has become a global phenomenon, is on most sommeliers’ Top 10 list. On my first visit to the island last year, I decided the signature reds, Nerello (Etna) and Nero d’Avola would be my focus. Why? Two reasons. With its warm Mediterranean climate, the reds relish the heat — it’s these darker renditions that we see in our market. Well, imagine my surprise when I found out that the island produces 65 percent white wine with elevated acids. Altitude (up to 3,000 feet) and strong winds are the two main elements that act as a counterbalance to the heat. Also, Sicilians themselves drink more white wine because of its refreshing qualities (think lemonade on a hot summer’s day) and because it goes well with their main dietary protein of seafood. Today, there are 76 authorized grapes, with many more still being discovered. Below are the notable workhorse whites. 28 @ QUENCH_MAG
CATARRATTO
This, the third Marsala grape, is a parent to Grillo and also to Garganega, the grape of Soave from Northern Italy. The most prolific of all of Sicily’s grapes, Catarratto accounts for 35 percent of all plantings, with the majority situated in the western provinces of Trapani, Palermo and Agrigento. It is also found on Mt. Etna where it is blended with Carricante. People tend to dismiss this varietal, as years of over cropping have created a negative impression. When done well, there is a floral attribute that couples with lemon, melon, green apple, white peach and herbal elements. The acid is zippy, and there is a strong mineral backbone.
CARRICANTE
INS(Z)OLIA
This grape has been cultivated on the island since ancient times. It is respected for its aromas, which run along the lines of peach, pear, apple and almonds, all supported by moderate acidity. Most renditions are mono-varietal, but it also plays nicely with other indigenous and French grapes.
MARSALA
Sicily’s first wine is Marsala. Production occurs in and around the town of the same name, located in western Sicily. That said, before any grapes were ever vinified, it was a trading port. This is what attracted English wine merchant John Woodhouse back in 1773 when he was looking for a fortified wine that could withstand the rigours of boat travel to England. Once Marsala hit the Queen’s shores, it became an instant success. By the middle of the 1800s, its reputation was on par with that of Port, Madeira and Sherry. Unfortunately, all good things must come to an end. In the 1900s, producers started to make inferior flavoured/ sweetened Marsalas, which had nothing to do with quality and everything to do with American Italian veal and chicken dishes. Reputation became so low globally that most producers started to look towards dry white winemaking with the classic varietals of the region (Grillo, Inzolia and Catarratto), which can all produce delightful expressions. It is also worthy to mention that Marsala producers have now re-grouped and started a campaign to promote the virtues of premium dry and sweet Marsala — and there are some exceptional wines that can be had for a song.
The name of this grape translates as “to load or burden,” a reference to its high yields. Plantings are confined to its home base on Mt. Etna, at elevations exceeding 950 metres. These wines contain serious acidity, which is somewhat tamed by malolactic fermentation. Though there are mono-varietal Carricantes, most of the time it is blended, acting as the dominant grape alongside Catarratto. Etna Bianco DOC must contain a minimum of 60 percent of Carricante, and Etna Bianco Superiore DOC must contain 80 percent. In the mouth, these wines possess a distinct salinity, low alcohol and a savoury/herbal/citrus edge. Fuller versions, which are picked later, have nuances of honey and creaminess from sur lie treatments.
ZIBIBBO OF PANTELLERIA
The first thing every wine textbook references about the volcanic island of Pantelleria is its proximity to Northern Africa rather than Sicily itself. What the texts don’t mention is the raw beauty of this isolated island of 5,000 inhabitants. Tourists have yet to discover it because rugged cliffs create its perimeter, rather than sandy beaches, making other Mediterranean islands more attractive to sun lovers. Pantelleria means “island of the wind,” and after spending two days on the island, this is no hyperbole. That is why the island’s main grape, Zibbibo (aka, Muscat of Alexandria), is grown goblet style to ensure proximity to the soil and to allow the wind to pass over. So unique is the viticulture here that it was granted UNESCO World Heritage status last year. Even though the majority of Zibbibo grown is used to make the more famous sweet dessert wines, which my colleague Michaela Morris will expand upon in her column, there has been a rise in dry wine production. Look for Muscat’s quintessential call signs of orange blossom, honey, lemon, peach and spice in these renditions. What is even more heartening is the high acidity, which is not the case for most Mediterranean Muscat. I would also be remiss if I did not mention the other famous agricultural product of the island: capers. Here, they are planted on rocks terraces, next to Zibbibo, picked, brined and then packed in salt for sale. SEPTEMBER 2018 29
ETNA HAS BECOME A GLOBAL PHENOMENON, MAKING IT TO MOST SOMMELIERS’ TOP 10 LIST.
GRECANICO (DORATO)
Recent DNA testing has shown that this grape is identical to Garganega from Veneto. Basic versions can lack punch. Better versions feature peach, pineapple, honey, pear and bitter almond qualities.
GRILLO
My favourite white Sicilian varietal is Grillo. This crossing of Zibbibo and Catarratto was first created in 1874 to produce a more aromatic Marsala. Other notable attributes include lower yields than other Sicilian varietals, which is always good for quality, and resistantance to heat and drought conditions. Today, there are two main sub-varieties: Nuovo and Vecchio. Vecchio is the original incarnation and is the one that produces more honeyed/richer/fruitier versions. Nuovo, the new bio-type, leans towards the Sauvignon Blanc paradigm with a green/herbaceous edge. With such an array of flavours, many producers state that a mix of both clones in the vineyards produces the complete wine. It is also noteworthy to mention that 30 @ QUENCH_MAG
Grillo sales within Italy increased 23 percent last year, which speaks well to this grape’s future.
THE FUTURE
There are also limited plantings of Malvasia delle Lipari, Fiano, Trebbiano and Pinot Grigio. Of course, Sicily has also succumbed to global tastes, so there are the mandatory plantings of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. More singular options include Chenin Blanc and Müller-Thurgau. Personally, I believe the island should stick to its indigenous heritage, as it is what it does best. With the 2017 vintage, Sicily doubled its production from the previous year. (Yes, I said doubled!) In the past decade, there have been massive plantings all over the island, and now that they have matured, it is helping to position Sicily as a potent player within Italy and abroad. By way of comparison, the island now has three times the amount of vineyard space than New Zealand and the same as Germany and South Africa. With such a proliferation, it is my fervent hope that we will see more of the white wines on our shores as the prices are reasonable and the quality has never been better. ×
ORIGIN STORY by Lisa Hoekstra
Plant breeding has been around since early human farmers decided one plant tasted better than another. Or was easier to grow. Or prettier. It was only in the late 19th century that technology stepped in to help. A deeper understanding of genetics and plant hybridization gave scientists the knowledge they needed to intervene and manipulate the results on a molecular level to craft new cultivars according to their plan.
In the University of Minnesota’s Grape Breeding and Enology program, a number of people from different disciplines — arboretum and horticultural sciences, vineyard managers, oenologists, graduate students, undergraduates and seasonal staff, as well as scientists who specialize in soil, food, nutrition and entomology — work together to develop grapes that will survive in North America’s colder climates. “The overarching goal of the program is to continue to improve the disease resistance, cold hardiness and fruit quality traits of grapes through variety development,” explains Matthew Clark, Assistant Professor and Extension Specialist. Clark oversees the grape-breeding project at the Horticultural Research Center in Excelsior, Minnesota. “We research the underlying genes for these traits and develop DNA marker tests to screen our seedlings ... DNA tests expedite our breeding process … We collaborate with researchers from around the country and participate
MONTE CREEK
in a U.S. Department of Agriculture – National Institute of Food and Agriculture funded project called VitisGen2, which uses the most up-to-date genomic and genetic resources to propel our project.” Their first successful cultivar, Frontenac, was released in 1996. Since then, the program has provided five other wine grapes used by wineries in the U.S. and Canada: Frontenac Blanc, Frontenac Gris, Itasca, La Crescent and Marquette. With more than 12,000 experimental
vines in cultivation on 12 acres, there are sure to be more new breeds of grape released in the future. “Our plan is to continue to develop and evaluate the best options for vines to be grown in Minnesota,” Clark states. According to Clark, the process from seed to fully developed wine cultivar takes about 10 years. First, they choose the parents to be part of the breeding program based on the traits they hope to develop in the final vine. “We do controlled polSEPTEMBER 2018 31
lination so the seeds inside are the new unique combination of genetics we want,” Clark explains. “We will do these ‘crosses’ for 30 to 100 different pairs. At the end of the season, this leaves us with thousands of new unique seeds that become our test seedlings the next year.” These test seeds are planted in a greenhouse. They currently have 7,000 to 10,000 seeds germinating, which they screen with DNA tests for disease-resistance traits. These tests help them cull the seedlings that are disease prone. “We use our nursery to screen for other traits, including insect and disease resistance, vigour and how the vines prepare for winter,” Clark says. “Theoretically, we can move about 1,000 of these plants to a vineyard in the next year.” Then comes patience, testing and evaluation. Of the 1,000 vines that they plant from their seedling experiments, 99.9 percent are eventually removed from the breeding program. “Anytime we see plants not performing well in the process, we cull them,” explains Clark. “This could be because of winter injury, disease, poor fruit flavours … Or they just aren’t anything better than their parents or other cultivars.” The top performers are vinified into wines and sampled for further evaluation. After all, a wine grape that doesn’t make a great-tasting wine isn’t right for the market. There are several traits they look for in grapes to move them from seedling, to nursery to experimental growth and finally out into the wine world. “The berries have to have the right pH for winemaking, suitable amounts of acid (sometimes too high in the Minnesota/hybrid backgrounds), and of course good flavours and aromas in the wine,” Clark explains. “In addition to wine, we are concerned about the viticulture attributes. They need to have good growth habit, yield well and consistent results.” Itasca is the most recent grape released from the University of Minnesota program. It was only planted in vineyards in 2017 so they have yet to really see the fruits of this vine. “We have one grower in Minnesota who has invested in 10 acres!” Clark exclaims. “We look forward to see32 @ QUENCH_MAG
ing how it performs at this site as well as at University test plots around the country, and the other growers who are testing it on their own properties.” As for the grapes released prior to 2017, I reached out to growers in Vermont, Quebec and British Columbia to see how they’re faring with these lab-grown and scientifically enhanced cultivars.
VERMONT
La Garagista uses several University of Minnesota hybrids, namely La Crescent, Marquette, Frontenac Gris, Frontenac Blanc and Frontenac. Winemaker and owner Deirdre Heekin chose to plant hybrids instead of the traditional European varieties because their alpine climate is a bit too harsh for more sensitive vines. “We did do some experimentation with vinifera, which was largely unsuccessful, and found that after we began making wine with the cold-hardy varieties that the potential was so intriguing and exciting that working with vinifera here became less compelling,” Heekin states. “We pulled out our Riesling and Blaufränkisch, and replanted to La Crescent; Marquette; Frontenac Noir, Gris and Blanc; and St. Croix.” “It was really important to us to work as naturally as possible,” she explains. “We wanted to have vines that we could work with like any other winegrower and not have to resort to logistically and financially challenging methods in order to care for our vineyards properly.” The logistically and financially challenging methods she refers to are the need to bury vines and protect them with geotextiles, methods commonly used in Quebec to help vinifera vines survive harsh winters. Working with hybrids came with its own challenges. However, overall, Heekin has found them to be hardier and easier to maintain. “Despite the natural resistance of these vines, we do have to manage and monitor disease and pest pressures,” she explains. “I imagine we have similar issues that any grower might have, but I don’t feel that there have been any real obstacles to our farming here. And, in fact, these varieties have advantages.”
“In many ways, it is less stressful to grow wine here,” Heekin continues. “Granted, we deal with cold temperatures during pruning, but our plants go into full dormancy. Harvest is typically much saner here. We don’t have to worry about extreme heat where we have to pick at nighttime or chill our fruit down. While we did have heat spikes this past harvest, we were still able to use cooler evening temperatures to protect the fruit before processing.” Heekin has had a lot of success with these hybrids. Her 2013 vintage of Damejeanne, made from Marquette, made the New York Times’ Top 10 Bottles of 2015, the first hybrid to ever be included on that list. She credits her serious approach to winemaking as the root of her success with these hybrids. “No one had really grown hybrid wine like this before or worked in a low-interventionist way in the cellar,” she explains. “Producers who work with hybrids always seem to be apologetic about growing hybrids. We strive to grow the most honest and transparent wine that we can that speaks of our landscape and terroir. We are thankful that we have wine grapes that we can grow, and we respect how much heart they have.”
QUEBEC
France Cliche and her husband own La Mas des Patriotes in Saint-Jean-surRichelieu, Quebec. The cold climate in Quebec prompted them to plant Frontenac Blanc and Gris, as well as St. Croix, instead of vinifera. “In 2003, we tried a few Vandal-Cliche to observe if it will survive to the next winter,” Cliche explains. The Vandal-Cliche is a Quebec white grape cultivar from the grape parents Chancellor and Vitis Ripario developed in 1989 by Joseph-O. Vandal and Mario Cliche. Since then, Cliche has worked with the University of Minnesota grapes to create wines that hit the mark in Quebec. “It took 10 years to have a mature fruit,” Cliche says. “Now our wine is well respected, and we are selling our wine at the liquor board, restaurants and fine grocery stores.” The challenges of vinifying these hybrids and marketing them are similar to the challenges faced by the other wine-
“WE USE OUR NURSERY TO SCREEN FOR OTHER TRAITS, INCLUDING INSECT AND DISEASE RESISTANCE, VIGOUR AND HOW THE VINES PREPARE FOR WINTER.” MATTHEW CLARK
makers. “Acidity level in hybrids is not easy to control,” she mentions. But they’re able to produce “very aromatic local wines with less sulphite. And they are unique.”
BRITISH COLUMBIA
Winemaker Galen Barnhardt works with Frontenac, Frontenac Gris, Frontenac Blanc, Marquette and La Crescent at Monte Creek Ranch Winery. The choice to use these grapes came largely from the climate in Monte Creek. “Our wintertime lows are two to three degrees colder than the Okanagan, which doesn’t sound like much, but can be significant,” Barnhardt explains. “If there is an exceptionally cold winter and we have a reduced crop in the European varieties, then we still know that the hybrid varieties should produce like normal.”
As with any variety, there have been challenges associated with transforming these hybrids into quality wines. “After a bit of trial and error, we have five of the University of Minnesota varieties in our program. We tried a few others but ultimately pulled them out,” Barnhardt states. “The hybrid varieties tend to have a fair bit of acidity, so we have certainly had to dial in our viticulture to ensure that we manage that acid throughout the growing season. In my opinion, a lot of the success has to do with determining what each grape excels at and how they fit into a portfolio. For instance, Marquette makes fantastic rosé, La Crescent is a superb grape for sparkling and Frontenac Blanc makes a great base for blending purposes. Once we had figured out the strengths of each variety, then it was just a matter of
fine-tuning the viticulture and winemaking in order to maximize those strengths.” The market for hybrid grapes grows every day, and winemakers like Barnhardt help to create the demand by producing quality wines. “Some hybrid varieties, such as Foch, have a bit of a cult following. These varieties were relative unknowns to consumers when we started producing them. However, at the end of the day, they produce aromatic and easy-drinking wines so it’s not that hard to convince people,” he explains. “They all have a unique character. Even the three Frontenac varieties are incredibly different. Consumers become very normalized to drinking the same dozen or so varietals, so I think when new flavour and aroma profiles come along, people are genuinely intrigued.” × SEPTEMBER 2018 33
CANADIAN EXPATS TAKE OVER THE WORLD
by Treve Ring
Though the wine industry in Canada is relatively big, we’re still a drop in the global wine sea. For many Canadians specializing in wine, our vast country is still too small to make the kind of impact they desire. I spoke with five successful Canadians working in different parts of the wine world and their reason for leaving home.
DEREK MORRISON
SASKATOON > LONDON, ENGLAND RETAIL MANAGER AND BUYER, THE GOOD WINE SHOP HOST/CO-CREATOR, BRING YOUR OWN AKA @BYOPODCAST CO-FOUNDER, GROWER CHAMPAGNE MONTH
WHERE DID YOU GET YOUR START? My first wine-focused job was at an Edmonton retail shop somewhere around 2006. This is when I really started to engage with wine more seriously as a passion and hobby. After working at Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge in the summer of 2005, I had been introduced to some incredible wines by colleagues there, which planted the seed. WHERE WERE YOU LIVING AND WHAT WAS YOUR JOB WHEN YOU LEFT? I was working in finance for a mortgage investment corporation in Saskatoon, which was focused on helping families get through difficult financial situations. I had also spent several months prior to my European move doing stand-up comedy. Not necessarily your typical recipe for the wine industry! WHAT’S EASIER ABOUT WORKING IN THE WINE INDUSTRY WHERE YOU ARE NOW BASED? The selection of wines available; there is little you can’t get here in London. The depth and diversity of wine available here, of perfect provenance, is unbeaten anywhere in the world. This is combined with sensible legislation that actually encourages and supports wine culture rather than suppresses it. If you are a wine lover, I really don’t think there is any better city in the world to be in. 34 @ QUENCH_MAG
WHAT WAS THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE WHEN YOU BEGAN WORKING IN WINE OUTSIDE OF CANADA? Being from Saskatoon, you don’t really have much inherent credibility when it comes to wine, so cracking into European wine and establishing yourself as a trusted resource on fine wine for clients around the world doesn’t happen overnight or easily.
COULD YOU DO WHAT YOU DO, AT THE LEVEL YOU DO NOW, ANYWHERE IN CANADA? No. The liquor regulations across Canada absolutely strangle your ability to do anything meaningful in a cost-effective way. It also chokes out potential innovations, and ultimately deprives the customer. It’s also stifling the Canadian wine industry across the country. The fact you can’t easily find great Ontario wines in B.C., and vice-versa, is a national embarrassment. WHAT DO PEOPLE THINK/KNOW ABOUT CANADIAN WINE WHERE YOU ARE NOW? I think the market is still learning, but over the last five years the wines have gone from something of a novelty to something seriously appreciated in the top restaurants in London. WHAT IS YOUR CURRENT FAVOURITE CANADIAN WINE? An impossible question to answer! From my time living in BC, the wines of the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys hold a special place in my heart. Le Vieux Pin/La Stella, Tantalus, Meyer Family Vineyards, Synchromesh, Bella, Little Farm, Nichol/ Lock & Worth, and TH Wines are making incredible wines, which help tell the diverse story of the region and reflect the inspiring people behind the labels. *ANSWERS HAVE BEEN EDITED FOR SPACE
DODGY BROS WINES
HARLEY CARBERRY VICTORIA > LAS VEGAS
DIRECTOR OF WINE AT MANDALAY BAY RESORT & CASINO AND DELANO LAS VEGAS
WHERE DID YOU GET YOUR START IN THE WINE INDUSTRY IN CANADA? I really started to fall in love with wine working at the Algonquin Resort in St. Andrews, New Brunswick, and decided I wanted to make a career of it when I was at the Fairmont Chateau Whistler.
WHAT DO PEOPLE THINK/KNOW ABOUT CANADIAN WINE WHERE YOU ARE NOW? Canadian wine is still looked at as a novelty, most guests only think of Icewine when you mention Canadian wine.
WHERE WERE YOU LIVING AND WHAT WAS YOUR JOB WHEN YOU LEFT? I was living in Whistler, B.C. and working as General Manager/ Sommelier at Wildflower Restaurant.
WES PEARSON
WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO MOVE? I decided to move to Las Vegas after visiting twice. I knew that I wanted to be part of the wine business here. DESCRIBE YOUR CURRENT ROLE. I’m responsible for all wine purchasing, storage, pricing, training and operations for managed outlets — including the Wine Spectator Grand Award-winning Aureole by Charlie Palmer, Stripsteak by Michael Mina, Fleur by Hubert Keller, Rivea by Alain Ducasse and Libertine Social by Shawn McClain — as well as the casino, room service, banquets, pools, bars and dining outlets. I also oversee a team of eight sommeliers and manage over 4,000 wines.
WINNIPEG > MCLAREN VALE, AUSTRALIA SENIOR SENSORY SCIENTIST, AUSTRALIAN WINE RESEARCH INSTITUTE WINEMAKER/DIRECTOR, DODGY BROS WINES
WHERE DID YOU GET YOUR START IN THE WINE INDUSTRY IN CANADA? My first wine industry job was in 2004 working in the vineyard at Pinot Reach in Kelowna, which became Tantalus Vineyards shortly thereafter. WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO MOVE? I felt like I had better opportunities outside of Canada, and I wanted to work and learn from some of the best in the world. I lucked into a six-month internship at Leoville Las Cases in the Medoc and that was it — I was gone! SEPTEMBER 2018 35
KENJI HODGSON
WHAT’S EASIER ABOUT WORKING IN THE WINE INDUSTRY WHERE YOU ARE NOW BASED? The climate! There is not much disease pressure on grapes here, plenty of sun and heat, and very little moisture, so most years you can rely on good quality and quantities. But it’s also the way the industry is set up here. “Estate” fruit isn’t really a big thing, so if you don’t own vineyards, it’s not really a big deal. You can just go out and buy grapes from whatever grower you want. The by-product of that is that you don’t need crazy amounts of capital to get into the game. A resourceful winemaker can go out, source some grapes, set up a little winery somewhere and make some wine. This has led — in McLaren Vale, anyway — to a region with both big, established and traditional producers; and a vibrant community of small, cutting-edge, adventurous and modern producers.
WHAT IS YOUR CURRENT FAVOURITE CANADIAN WINE? I may hear it from my Okanagan friends but Norman Hardie County Pinot Noir. World class.
WHAT WAS THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE WHEN YOU BEGAN WORKING IN WINE OUTSIDE OF CANADA? Getting your foot in the door. When you’ve studied wine science in Canada, it doesn’t quite have the bling of a degree from say UC Davis, Bordeaux or Geisenheim. Most employers were unaware there was even a wine industry in Canada, so I was a bit of a wild card. Most of the people in the workforce here have gone to the University of Adelaide or Charles Stuart University, and the employer knows exactly what they’re getting as far as education and training from those programs. That was one of the reasons I transitioned into research. It’s a bit different now, I think, as the world is a bit smaller and more people at the top would be pretty clued in as to what’s happening in Canada.
KENJI HODGSON
COULD YOU DO WHAT YOU DO, AT THE LEVEL YOU DO NOW, ANYWHERE IN CANADA? On the wine production side, with the current business model we employ, I’d say no way. Too many barriers to entry, money being the first and most obvious one. For research, it’s a bit more likely, but as it stands right now, there are probably only a handful of people in Canada doing what I do in a wine space, so those aren’t the kinds of jobs that come up all that often. 36 @ QUENCH_MAG
IF YOU WERE GOING TO MOVE AGAIN, AND CONTINUE TO WORK IN WINE, WHERE WOULD IT BE? Since I was a teenager, I’ve consistently asked myself, “Is there somewhere I could be doing whatever it is I’m doing that would be better?” And that has kind of driven a lot of my travel over the years. But at this point in my life, I don’t think there is. I get to make wine from grapes grown on some of the oldest Grenache vines on the planet, I get to do relevant and interesting wine research, and my kids get to grow up surfing. Tough to beat.
VANCOUVER > ANJOU, LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE FOUNDER/WINEMAKER AT VINS HODGSON
WHERE DID YOU GET YOUR START IN THE WINE INDUSTRY IN CANADA? James Nevison and I started Halfaglass in 2002, with the purpose of introducing wine to a new demographic. Then, after a cellar internship in Japan, I was hired by Richard Kanazawa at Red Rooster for the 2006 vintage. WHERE WERE YOU LIVING AND WHAT WAS YOUR JOB WHEN YOU LEFT? Penticton. My wife and I were pruning for Morton Serbon at Blasted Church in 2009. WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO MOVE? At first, it was a one-year work-holiday. We had been tasting what French organic/biodynamic wine we could access in BC shops (not much back then; I hope this has changed) and we couldn’t figure out the reason for the massive quality gap com-
pared to BC wine (I also hope this has changed). So, we left to try to learn why. WHAT’S EASIER ABOUT WORKING IN THE WINE INDUSTRY WHERE YOU ARE NOW BASED? Support from community and colleagues. We had a miniscule budget and for the first few years had to work seasonal jobs to fund our project. The outright generosity of our colleagues is the only reason we could get this far. And even though now we’re better equipped, we still rely on them. Though finally I feel we are in a position to give back as well. COULD YOU DO WHAT YOU DO, AT THE LEVEL YOU DO NOW, ANYWHERE IN CANADA? No.
ETHELIYA HANANOVA
ETHELIYA HANANOVA
MONTREAL > PARIS
SOMMELIÈRE AND OWNER OF COMICE
WHERE DID YOU GET YOUR START? I started out in wine in New York, then went to sommellerie school just outside of Montreal, and worked at Le Club Chasse et Pêche, which was as much of a wonderful training ground and wine school as any formal education. WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO MOVE? My husband, Noam, who is a chef, was set on cooking in France and I was ready for new challenges and interested in living in close proximity to vineyards in Europe. We got sponsored to come work here together in 2014 and figured that it was a oncein-a-lifetime opportunity.
WHAT WAS THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE WHEN YOU BEGAN WORKING IN WINE OUTSIDE OF CANADA? The adjustment to working in a culture steeped in tradition. It’s both wonderful and sometimes limiting, as people can be a bit closed-minded about non-French wines or non-classic regions and styles. But in the four years that I’ve been here, I’ve seen that evolve, which makes me happy.
DESCRIBE YOUR CURRENT ROLE. I own a Michelin-starred restaurant in the 16th arrondissement of Paris with my husband. I oversee the dining room and am the wine director.
WHAT DO PEOPLE THINK/KNOW ABOUT CANADIAN WINE WHERE YOU ARE NOW? They barely know it exists, outside of a select number of people in the wine business. It’s not really a thing here, it doesn’t get exported in this direction very often, from what I can tell. Though I’ve seen the Hydromel from Ferme Apicole Desrochers, which is cool (and good).
WHAT’S EASIER ABOUT WORKING IN THE WINE INDUSTRY WHERE YOU ARE NOW BASED? Interacting with the winemakers on a regular basis (a lot of them come through Paris on a frequent basis), tasting wines of the same vintage several times over the year.
IF YOU WERE GOING TO MOVE AGAIN, AND CONTINUE TO WORK IN WINE, WHERE WOULD IT BE? In the French countryside. Otherwise, Paris is kind of the mecca for us, at least for the foreseeable future. Especially since we own a restaurant here. × SEPTEMBER 2018 37
EUROP IT TOO
38 @ QUENCH_MAG
PE DOES O by Duncan Holmes
AT THE GYM LAST THURSDAY, BETWEEN PRESSES ON THE BENCH, MY TRAINER, ANNA, AND I TALKED ABOUT FOOD. Nutrition, diets … what we ate as kids. The latter was the
interesting bit. Growing up in long-ago Australia — before waves of immigrants from war-bruised Europe suggested that there could be more to our meals than over-roasted legs of lamb, and the beef and mashed potatoes of Olde England — our family’s fare was as simple as food might be. Wonderful French, Spanish, Greek, Indian and all the rest? None of that. Ne’er even that international favourite, a bowl of rice! Even though I could almost guess what my trainer’s answer would be, just for fun I asked Anna — who I knew had grown up in Germany — if she had had much rice as a kleiner liebling? “Nein,” she said. (Actually, she said “no.”) “We were meat and potato people — and any other veg that came seasonally from our garden ... Oh yes, and those wursts. The wursts were the best!” While rice and its carby cousins have come a long way in the southern parts of Europe, I’m sure that even staid Germany is also on board with this world-wide wonder. Everyone has rice now and then. It might seem obvious, but right after wheat, rice is the most widely cultivated cereal in the world. It works for dishes at the start of the meal, as a pearly-white add-on for mains and as a sweet dessert. Ricepedia.org, a cousin of “Wiki”, is a bubbling pot of info about rice in Europe, and makes it clear that, while rice is neither a staple nor a major European crop, it’s a big deal in Italy, Spain, Greece and Portugal, and to a lesser extent in France, Romania, Bulgaria and Hungary. Per capita consumption down south ranges from 6–18 kilograms annually, compared with just 3.5–5.5 kilograms up north. The Camargue region of France, colourfully famous for its white horses, black bulls and pink flamingos, also supplies about 20 percent of that country’s rice requirements. The balance comes from the United States, Madagascar and the Ivory Coast.
Perfect Every Time
My Larousse Gastronomique says that the key to cooking rice is ensuring that the grains remain a little firm (al dente) but not hard, so they remain separate and retain their flavour. I once had the good fortune of living next to a dietitian, who among other things, offered me a no-fail method for cooking rice. It needs a video, but, short of that, here’s the deal. Pour into any saucepan the amount of rice you estimate will be needed for your meal. Half a cup of uncooked rice per person is a good starter. Crook your third finger and hold it against the rice as you pour cold water to cover the second joint of your crooked finger. Add a half-teaspoon of salt and a teaspoon of oil. Bring to a boil, then immediately cover with a lid and turn the heat to its lowest point. Leave covered for 20 minutes, then lift the lid. The water will be absorbed, and the rice will be cooked. Before serving, add butter, salt to taste, stir and serve. Feedback on your success — with any saucepan — will be welcomed. Here’s another for a serving for two. Two cups long-grain rice. Place the rice in a saucepan. Wash and rinse the rice several times — until the white starch disappears. Add enough cold water to cover the rice by half an inch. Cover and cook on high heat until boiling. Boil for two minutes, then turn the heat to medium and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the lid and stir with a fork. The rice will be fluffy.
SEPTEMBER 2018 39
ARANCINI
MAKES 16 3 1/4 1 2 1/2 1/2 2 2 1/2 1 1/2
cups low-sodium chicken broth tsp kosher salt cup arborio rice tbsp pine nuts, toasted cup shredded mozzarella cheese cup shredded Fontina cheese tbsp chopped fresh parsley large eggs cup grated Parmesan cheese cups bread crumbs, divided Vegetable oil, for frying
1. Bring the broth and 1/4 tsp salt to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Stir in the rice, reduce the heat to low and simmer until tender, about 20 minutes. Spread on a parchment-lined baking sheet and let cool completely. 2. Combine the pine nuts, mozzarella, Fontina and parsley in a bowl. Set aside. 3. Beat the eggs in a large bowl, then stir in the cooled rice, the Parmesan and 2/3 cup bread crumbs. Shape the mixture into 16 1 1/2-inch balls. 4. Place the remaining bread crumbs in a shallow bowl. Press your finger into the centre of each rice ball, insert 2 tsp of the mozzarella mixture, then pinch the rice around the filling to enclose. Roll the balls in the breadcrumbs and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Loosely cover and refrigerate, for at least 1 hour or overnight. (If refrigerating overnight, roll in additional bread crumbs before frying.) 5. Heat 1/2 inch vegetable oil in a large saucepan over medium heat until a deep-fry thermometer registers 350˚F. Working in batches, fry the rice balls, turning, until golden brown on all sides, about 4 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Season with salt. × 40 @ QUENCH_MAG
SPANISH RICE SERVES 4
Marion Cunningham at Epicurious says that this is more Cajun-New Orleans than it is a dish from your favourite Spanish haunt. She goes on: “This recipe gave rice a little style, made it a delicious ‘fancy’ side dish to serve alongside grilled meat or chicken. I always look forward to having any leftovers as a cold salad for lunch the next day. If you like a little added spice, put some hot pepper sauce on the table.”
1/4 cup olive oil 2 onions, finely chopped 2 green bell peppers, seeded, ribs removed, and diced 2 ribs celery, finely chopped 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 cup long-grain white rice 250 ml tomato sauce 2 cups water 1 tsp salt 1/4 tsp black pepper 1 tsp cumin (optional)
RICE PUDDING
1. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat, then add the onions, green peppers and celery. Sauté until soft, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another minute while stirring. 2. Add the rice and stir together to mix. Add the tomato sauce and the water carefully. Season with the salt and pepper, and add the cumin, if using. 3. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, cover and simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, until the rice is done, stirring once or twice.
GREEN PEPPERS STUFFED WITH RICE SERVES 4
Juicy green peppers are made for stuffing, and rice, tarted up with other goodies, is perfect for this stuffing opportunity. (Just like the cavities of our favourite poultry.) I found this super-easy stuffer at Allrecipes. com, repository of mountains of great cooking ideas.
1 1/2 2 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1/2
cup water cup uncooked arborio rice green bell peppers, halved and seeded tbsp olive oil green onions, thinly sliced tsp dried basil tsp Italian seasoning tsp salt pinch ground black pepper tomato, diced cup crumbled feta cheese
1. Preheat the oven to 400˚F. Lightly grease a baking sheet. 2. In a medium saucepan, bring the water to a boil. Stir in the rice. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside. 3. Place the peppers cut side down on the prepared baking sheet. Roast for 25 to 30 minutes in the preheated oven, or until tender and the skin starts to brown. 4. While the peppers are roasting, heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Cook the onions, basil, Italian seasoning, salt and pepper in the oil for 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the tomato and cook for 5 minutes. 5. Spoon in the cooked rice and stir until heated through. Remove from the heat, mix in the feta cheese and spoon the mixture into the pepper halves. 6. Return to the oven for 5 minutes. Serve immediately.
1/3 cup long grain rice (prewash and then soak in a saucepan of cold water for 2 hours) 1 cup milk 1/4 tsp salt 5 cups half and half 1 cup sugar 2 tbsp soaked raisins 2 tbsp slivered almonds 2 tbsp chopped pistachios 1/2 tsp ground cardamom 1 tbsp rose water
1. Drain the rice and return to the saucepan. Add the milk and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring. Reduce the heat to low and cover. Simmer for 5 minutes, lifting the lid occasionally to stir. 2. Uncover, add the salt and pour in the half and half. Increase the heat to medium and bring slowly to near boiling, stirring occasionally. Continue to cook, uncovered, stirring from time to time to prevent burning and until the mixture thickens. (This will take about an hour. Do something else while this is happening!) 3. Stir in the sugar and continue to cook, stirring fairly steadily until the mixture has the consistency of thick custard and drops slowly from the spoon. (At this stage, the rice will have almost completely disintegrated.) 4. Stir in the raisins, almonds, pistachios and cardamom. Blend everything well and remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the rose water and spoon the pudding into a serving dish. Serve warm or refrigerate and serve cold. You may wish to decorate the top with some slivered almonds. I usually grate some nutmeg or cinnamon overtop.
BAKED RICE WITH APPLES
4 cups cooked white rice, divided 6 medium apples, peeled, cored, coarsely shredded 2 tbsp granulated sugar, divided 2 tbsp cinnamon, divided 1 tsp lemon juice 1 cup light cream 1 tsp vanilla extract Butter, for greasing the casserole dish 1. Grease a 6-quart casserole dish with butter then spoon in 2 cups of the cooked rice, spread it evenly, and firmly pat it down. In a medium bowl, mix the apples with 1 tbsp of sugar, 1 tbsp of cinnamon and the lemon juice. 2. Spoon the apple mixture over the rice layer and pat it down. Cover the apples with the remaining 2 cups of rice and pat it down. In a medium bowl, mix the cream with the vanilla extract and remaining 1 tbsp sugar. 3. Gently pour this mixture over the rice layer. Sprinkle the remaining 1 tbsp of cinnamon overtop. Preheat the oven to 375˚F. Bake uncovered for 30 minutes. Serve warm or cold with fresh fruit, jam, whipped cream or your favourite syrup. × SEPTEMBER 2018 41
BOUQUET GARNI NANCY JOHNSON
THAI YELLOW CURRY TOFU WITH MUSHROOMS AND PEPPERS SERVES 4
VEGGIE LOVE I enjoy several vegetarian meals per week and love discovering new and innovative ways to dish up the tastiest of vegetable dishes. From grain-filled bowls to pasta to stir-fries to stews, vegetarian fare is healthful and soul satisfying. Take advantage of September’s crops to create your own nutrient-dense dishes using potatoes, peppers, squash, beets, tomatoes, cabbage, artichokes, broccoli, beans, mushrooms, carrots, cauliflower, corn, garlic, onions, leeks, spinach, turnips, eggplant, Brussels sprouts, grapes, figs, apples, cranberries and more. If it’s veggie-based, you really can’t go wrong.
Thai yellow curry paste is less spicy than Thai red or green curry and for that reason, it’s my favourite. Because extra firm tofu is packed in water, it absorbs a great deal of liquid. After draining, thickly slice tofu and set the slices in a colander to extract any additional water. This will allow the tofu to nicely brown in the hot oil. Change the recipe by adding different vegetables and substituting the yellow curry for Thai panang, red or green curry. Serrano peppers are decidedly Mexican but readily available. If you prefer, use a Thai or bird’s eye chili pepper, which is quite a bit hotter. In any case, add more or less hot peppers to the mix, depending on your preference.
2 1 2 1 1 2 1 2 1/2 1 1 1 1 2
packages extra-firm tofu, drained and thickly sliced tbsp coconut oil, or more if needed cups sliced mushrooms onion, chopped red bell pepper, chopped tsp minced serrano pepper tsp Thai yellow curry paste garlic cloves, pressed tsp grated fresh ginger can unsweetened coconut milk Fresh juice from 2 limes tbsp tomato paste tbsp sugar tbsp fish sauce tbsp minced fresh cilantro
1. Place tofu slices in paper towel-lined colander. Cover with additional paper towels, pressing down on tofu. Set a couple heavy cans or a small heavy skillet on top. Let sit 20 minutes. Pat tofu dry. 42 @ QUENCH_MAG
× SEARCH THROUGH A WIDE RANGE OF WINE-FRIENDLY RECIPES ON WWW.QUENCH.ME/RECIPES/
2. In a large skillet, heat coconut oil over medium high heat. Add tofu and cook until browned on both sides. Remove from skillet and keep warm in low oven. If needed, add more coconut oil. Add mushrooms, onion, bell and serrano peppers. 3. Sauté until softened. Add curry paste, garlic and ginger. Cook 1 minute longer. 4. In a large bowl, whisk together coconut milk, lime juice, tomato paste, sugar and fish sauce. Add to skillet. Return tofu to skillet. Bring to a boil and cook 5 minutes, uncovered, until slightly thickened. Garnish with cilantro. Serve with jasmine rice. MATCH: Curry pairs well with floral and fragrant Gewürztraminer.
QUINOA BOWL WITH AVOCADO, RED CABBAGE AND SESAME SEEDS
1. In a large skillet, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add garlic, ginger, turmeric, cumin, cinnamon and chili flakes. Cook 1 minute. 2. Add tomatoes, squash, carrots, potatoes and vegetable broth. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, covered, 20 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Add chickpeas and raisins. Heat through. 3. Stir butter into hot cooked couscous. Serve stew over couscous, garnished with mint. MATCH: The complex spices of this dish require a fruity Syrah or Zinfandel.
SERVES 4
A bowlful of grains is the starting point for many surprising combinations of food and flavour. Change this recipe by adding thinly sliced radishes, red onions or golden beets, spiralized carrots or zucchini, spinach or kale, black beans or chickpeas, chopped dates, walnuts or pecans. Be sure to use toasted sesame oil; it has a richer flavour than regular sesame oil.
1 1 1/2 1/2 2 2 1 2 1 2 1 1
can unsweetened coconut milk cup quinoa tsp salt tbsp toasted sesame oil tbsp soy sauce tbsp rice vinegar tsp grated fresh ginger tsp honey avocados, peeled and sliced cup shredded red cabbage tbsp sesame seeds
1. In a large saucepan over medium high heat, combine 2 1/2 cups water, coconut milk, quinoa and salt. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and cook, covered, 15 minutes or until liquid is absorbed. 2. In a small bowl, whisk sesame oil, soy sauce, vinegar, ginger, honey and 1 tbsp water. 3. Divide quinoa among 4 bowls. Top with avocado, shredded cabbage and sesame seeds. Drizzle dressing over each serving. MATCH: Excellent with a sparkling wine or Pinot Grigio.
1 1 1/2 1 1 2 2 2 1 1/4 4 1 2
tsp ground cumin tsp ground cinnamon tsp red pepper chili flakes can diced tomatoes butternut squash, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes carrots, peeled and chopped potatoes, peeled and chopped cups vegetable broth can chickpeas, drained and rinsed cup golden raisins cups cooked couscous tbsp butter tbsp minced mint
FRESH FIG SALAD WITH GOAT CHEESE AND PISTACHIOS SERVES 4
My dad used to say his idea of heaven was to be able to reach out his kitchen window to pick fresh figs from a tree. And indeed, he grew fig trees all of his life in the rugged northeast, a singular accomplishment and one that makes me so proud of him. Figs are in season from August through October, so this is the time to buy a few and make this simple salad for dinner. Rich in fibre, potassium and manganese, figs are also a good source of calcium. If you need extra protein and don’t mind a bit of meat, add grilled, sliced chicken.
SERVES 4
8 1/4 2 1 1 8 1/2 1
1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. 2. Toss figs with 1 tbsp olive oil and place on parchment-lined baking sheet. Roast in 350˚F oven 10 minutes or until lightly browned. Cool. 3. In a small bowl, whisk vinegar, honey, shallot, salt and pepper. Whisk in 1/4 cup olive oil. 4. Divide greens among 4 plates. Arrange figs, pistachios and feta cheese over each. Drizzle with dressing. MATCH: Uncork a Pinot Noir. ×
SPICED MOROCCAN STEW A blend of Arabic, Andalusian, Berber and Mediterranean cuisines, the foods of Morocco are often seasoned with cinnamon, turmeric, ginger and more. This spicy vegetable stew is served over Morocco’s popular couscous and garnished with mint.
1 1 3 1 1
tbsp extra virgin olive oil onion, chopped cloves garlic, minced tsp ground ginger tsp ground turmeric
fresh figs, cut in half cup + 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, divided tbsp Champagne vinegar tsp honey minced shallot Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste cups mixed salad greens cup shelled pistachios cup crumbled goat cheese
SEPTEMBER 2018 43
BUYING GUIDE All wines listed are recommended by our experienced panel of tasters. Each wine is rated based on its varietal character, representation of style and/or region, balance and price-quality ratio. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Browse our experts’ tasting notes to find the wines that may appeal to your taste or pique your interest to try something new. Afterall, one of the best parts about wine is the discovery. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and will likely vary from province to province. A large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, so check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Treve Ring, Tim Pawsey, Silvana Lau, Craig Pinhey and Jonathan Smithe. *Available through private import and wine clubs
SPARKLING SEGURA VIUDAS RESERVA BRUT CAVA, PENEDES, SPAIN ($14)
Looking for a sparkling wine that’s not going to compromise your budget? Pale straw in colour, this bubbly has a minerally, chalky, lemon and green apple nose. It’s light to medium-bodied, dry, slightly earthy, with a green apple flavour and good length aided by citrus acidity. (TA)
mellow pear and floral scents with a distinctive almond overtone. Green apple is more forward on the palate, with light refreshing spritz and almond note reprising on the finish. (SW) BERNARD-MASSARD CUVÉE DE L’ÉCUSSON BRUT ROSÉ, LUXEMBURG ($20)
Light salmon pink with short-lived bubbles. Light strawberry with hints of minerality (chalk, limestone). Light on the palate, the lively acidity gives it a nice freshness. Delicate fruity flavour, fully dry through the clean finish. Drink soon. (GBQc)
COLIO LILY SPARKLING ROSÉ, ONTARIO ($17)
Delicate pale pink in colour with active bubbles. On the nose, you experience aromas of mineral-tinged wild strawberries. It’s light-bodied and crisp on the palate, offering flavours of cranberry and raspberry. An easy drinking bubbly. (TA) CARPENE MALVOLTI PROSECCO FRIZZANTE, PROSECCO DOC, ITALY ($20)
Bottled under screw cap, this one offers 44 @ QUENCH_MAG
SANTA MARGHERITA VINO BRUT ROSÉ NV, VENETO, ITALY ($21)
Presented in the same distinctive squat bottle that their still rosé comes in, though the sparkling version is not nearly as successful. This is a blend of 50/45/5 Chardonnay/Glera/Malbec, charmat method (tank fermented, as per Prosecco). Tight, herbal-lined berries, pink florals and cherry jam are carried along
× FIND A COLLECTION OF TASTING NOTES FOR WINE, BEER AND SPIRITS AT WWW.QUENCH.ME/THENOTES/
KIR-YIANNI PARANGA XINOMAVRO/SYRAH/MERLOT 2015, MACEDONIA ($14) PARANGA ALWAYS OVER-DELIVERS FOR ITS PRICEPOINT. A BLEND OF XINOMAVRO, SYRAH AND MERLOT, THIS MEDIUM-BODIED RED FEATURES PLUM, CHERRY, SPICE, BLACK PEPPER, HERBS AND SOME COCOA. VERY GOOD LENGTH WITH ENOUGH PUNCH TO PAIR ALONGSIDE LASAGNA OR A MEAT LOVERS’ PIZZA. TBY EVAN SAVIOLIDIS
a tight, sharp palate to a sweet, candied necklace finish. Sweet, sour, sharp and short does not make for a pleasant sipper, but well chilled and with flavourful brunch pancakes or pastries (or, better yet, in punch), this would do well. (TR) DE CHANCENY CRÉMANT DE LOIRE BRUT ROSÉ NV, AOP CRÉMANT DE LOIRE, FRANCE ($25)
Medium blush in hue, this is a traditional method fizz from 20 to 30-year-old Cabernet Franc. You get a sense of the grape’s alluring herbaceousness throughout, crossing raspberry, cherry and rhubarb jam. Perky grapefruit acidity lifts to a snappy, dried cinnamon and salts finish. Great food pairing sparkling rosé, with enough weight to easily match proteins. (TR) SÉBASTIEN BRUNET VOUVRAY BRUT MÉTHODE TRADITIONNELLE 2015, LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE ($25)
Pale yellow with fine bubbles. Fruity nose of apricot, peach/pear and limestone with hints of wet wool. Fine acidity, round mid-palate, great fruity taste. Dry finish. Overall softer than most brut sparklings, this is due to less acidity, not more sugar. Ready to drink. (GBQc)
DOMAINE ROLET PÈRE ET FILS BRUT 2012, CRÉMANT DU JURA, FRANCE ($26)
Very pale yellow. Light fruity notes of green apple, dry stone, shells. Fully dry palate, clean taste, slightly fruity with vivid acidity for a very fresh mouthfeel. Compact, short finish. Drink or hold a few years. (GBQc) DOMAINE ROLET CRÉMANT DU JURA ROSÉ BRUT NV, JURA, FRANCE ($32)
Domaine Rolet is run by four siblings: Pierre and Elaine, plus winemaker Guy and vineyard manager Bernard. Together they sustainably farm prime old-vine vineyards in Arbois, Côtes du Jura and L’Étoile. This is a blend of Pinot Noir and Poulsard, from vines over 30 years old, growing on gray marl up to 380 m. This was native fermented and saignée method, fermented and aged in tank before spending 40+ months on the lees. This fine fizz is a creamy pink/orange hue, with red currant, pomegranate, brisk cherry, streaming down a tight line to a salted, snappy finish. (TR) HAYWIRE VINTAGE BUB 2013, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($35)
This is a special cuvee that was bottled in
early January 2014 and remained on its lees in triage for 52 months. No dosage was added at disgorgement. It has a vigorous and lively mousse with deep brioche and flint aromas to go with baked apple, lemon and grapefruit accents. Even with aging, it shows an austere profile on the palate with zippy, zesty acidity and a clean profile that highlights the apple, citrus, minerals, baked bread notes and wonderful freshness through the finish. (RV) LUC BELAIRE RARE SPARKLING ROSÉ NV, PROVENCE, FRANCE ($38)
Fruit driven, this bubbly from Southern France exudes strawberry, cherry, raspberry, plum, red flowers, herbs and hints of spice. Impressively rich on the palate with some residual sugar, so chill and serve alongside Indian curries or Tacos al Pastor. (ES) SUMMERHILL CIPES BLANC DE BLANC 2012, OKANAGAN ($40)
This beautiful, traditionally made 100% Chardonnay sparkler is from a blend of Okanagan vineyards and spends a minimum of four years on the lees. Such an enticing nose of Meyer lemon, poached pear, brioche, melba toast, summer SEPTEMBER 2018 45
BUYING GUIDE apples and toasted almonds. It is wonderfully clean and fresh in the mouth with a fine mousse that tickles the palate and lifts the creamy flavours of apples, pears and citrus accents that all lead to a long, long finish. (RV) NYETIMBER CLASSIC CUVÉE NV, WEST SUSSEX, ENGLAND ($75)
Delicate and accessible with aromas and flavours of ripe pear, baked apple, citrus, almonds and spice. Gentle bubbles, creamy, slightly juicy texture and a pleasant, lingering finish. A lovely match with sashimi and Asian or Indian influenced summer salads with a touch of heat. (GB) TAITTINGER PRESTIGE ROSÉ NV, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($80)
This aromatic rosé obtains its colour from the addition of 15% Pinot Noir added to a white wine base that contains a high percentage of Chardonnay. Strawberry, cherry, apple, toast and mineral transition from the nose to the palate where a creamy texture comes in to play via the bubbles. It is all about the finesse here! (ES)
um-bodied, dry, with green apple flavours carried on lemony acidity. Great length and great elegance. (TA)
ITALY ZENATO SAN BENEDETTO LUGANA 2016, VENETO ($19)
Bright, medium straw in colour. Minerally, green melon bouquet; medium-bodied, dry, ripe melon and lemon flavours. Well-balanced. This 100% Trebbiano di Lugana is actually related to the Verdicchio family! (TA)
WHITE $20 AND UNDER
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED UNITED STATES CANADA FORT BERENS PINOT GRIS 2017, LILLOOET, BC ($18)
This Gris is mostly from the estate vineyard with the rest coming from the Similkameen Valley. It has a rich, expressive nose of peach, pineapple and golden delicious apple. It’s juicy and rocks on the palate with a range of orchard fruits, tropical mango and pineapple, and vibrancy through the finish. Well-made and attractive Pinot Gris from BC. (RV)
CLINE VIOGNIER 2017, NORTH COAST ($19)
When Viognier is done right, it is a truly ethereal experience — and Cline has hit the mark with this offering. Medium body with a beautiful perfume of banana, peach, honeysuckle, golden apple, yogurt, fresh flowers and spice. The palate doles out the same alongside a combination of cream and acidity. (ES)
RECOMMENDED FRANCE
NYETIMBER BLANC DE BLANCS 2010, WEST SUSSEX, ENGLAND ($95)
Citrus, baked brioche and lightly floral on the nose with fresh and expressive bubbles, more citrus, fresh herbs, baked apple and pastry on the palate with nice depth and complexity, finishing with a lifted, mineral finish. (GB) LOUIS ROEDERER PREMIER BRUT, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($150)
Pale straw in colour with tiny bubbles and an active mousse. Minerally, apple and white blossoms on the nose. Medi46 @ QUENCH_MAG
GREECE THALIA SAUVIGNON BLANC-VILANA NV, CRETE ($10)
A Sauvignon Blanc may not be the first Grecian wine that jumps into your head, but this is a real bargain — a non-vintage blend of Sauvignon with the local variety Vilana. Bright, pale straw in colour, it has a minerally, herbaceous, green plum nose with a graphite note. Medium-bodied and crisply dry, its flavours are green plum and grapefruit with a light floral note and a lively acidic finish. (TA)
BARON DE HOEN RESERVE PINOT BLANC 2016, ALSACE ($14)
An easy drinking PB with melon, apple, citrus and notes of white flower. Acidity is medium as well as the length. Try alongside a chilled seafood tower. (ES)
GREECE THALIA WHITE SAUVIGNON BLANC VILANA 2017, CRETE ($10)
This is the best yet for this wine and it’s
an absolute no-brainer for the warm summer, especially for the price. It is a delicate offering with banana, citrus, apple, grapefruit, gooseberry, honey and herbs all supported by crisp acidity. Chill thoroughly and drink up. (ES)
ITALY VILLA SANDI CHARDONNAY 2016, VENEZIA DOC ($17)
Leaning towards the austere, this one shows light floral scent with an intriguing anise overtone. Palate is smooth, with citrus and apple flavours, attractively balanced acidity and a light clean finish. Understated style that will pair with, rather that overwhelm, lighter dishes. (SW) FONTANAFREDDA GAVI DI GAVI CORTESE 2016, PIEDMONT ($19)
Gavi is always 100% Cortese, a grape known for it vibrant acidity, which is most definitely found in this bottling. Add lime, apple, honey, almond and herbal elements, and you have a perfect pairing with pickerel topped with a tarragon-infused beurre blanc sauce. (ES)
ANTHONIJ RUPERT PROTEA CHENIN BLANC 2017, WO WESTERN CAPE AFRICA ($13)
Protea is South Africa’s national flower; this wine and beautifully distinctive label pay tribute to the beautiful bloom. This is a lean, tighter Chenin, with lemon and greengage, green melon, pear and green apple. Grapes from across the Western Cape were selected for this wine, fully crushed and fermented in stainless before time in stainless and 10% in 600 L oak barrels for 5 months prior to bottling. That barrel is all but entirely absorbed by the fruit, leaving some firm spice lingering on the finish. (TR)
From pioneering winery co-op KWV, this easy, lightly oaked Chardy was sourced from various spots around the Cape, and partially (40%) barrel rested for 4 months. Yellow apple, lemon, melon and white peach with a buttery mid and a warming, short finish. Soft on the palate and with a solid dose of RS, this should be well chilled and drunk soon. (TR) FLAT ROOF MANOR PINOT GRIGIO 2017, WO STELLENBOSCH ($11)
Lean and tight, with lemon, melon, green apple and grass on a thin, steely frame to a shorter, snappy finish. The Grigio comes from three Stellenbosch vineyards, from vines 5 to 34-years-old. The wine spent 2 months on the lees in stainless, where it was blended with 9% Sauvignon Blanc and 2% Chenin. Crisp, shining and lively, chill and crack now. (TR)
JOSH CELLARS CHARDONNAY, CALIFORNIA ($18)
With the Josh Cabernet Sauvignon as the number one selling California Cabernet at the LCBO, it was only time before a white wine companion would be listed — enter this Chardonnay! It is a well-balanced wine with restrained pineapple, apple, peach citrus and spice. Medium body with a refreshing palate and great length. Can be sipped by itself or with food. (ES)
$20.01 TO $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
SPIER CHENIN BLANC 2017, WO WESTERN CAPE ($14)
Grapes for this likeable, potent Chenin were sourced from the Breede and Coastal regions of Western Cape. After light crushing, brief skin contact and overnight cold settling, this was tank fermented where it spent 3 months on lees before bottling. The result is an easy and juicy white, with ripe yellow apple, pear, guava, lime, melon and pineapple on the spicy, medium-bodied palate, finishing shorter and snappy. A swig of RS rounds this out and makes it super accessible. Great value. (TR)
SOUTH AFRICA KWV THE VINECRAFTER CHARDONNAY 2017, WO WESTERN CAPE ($9)
UNITED STATES
BOSCHENDAL 1685 CHARDONNAY 2016, COASTAL REGION ($19)
The 1685 in the name refers to the date this winery was founded, and today Boschendal is one of the grandest, largest estates on the Cape. Shining with bright lemon curd, this Chardonnay was selected from Stellenbosch, Elgin and Boschendal farm in Franschhoek. Grapes were whole bunch pressed and cold settled for 2 days before some of the puffy solids were added back into the clear juice. It then underwent partial natural fermentation in 30% stainless and 70% French oak (12% new), where it remained on primary lees for 10 months. Regular battonage amped up the mouthful of this creamy wine, one already generous with wood. Thankfully there is a tight backbone of lemon and stones to right this and keep it from feeling too fat. Green apple, wood spice, and the ever present zippy citrus hold this aloft, to a warming finish. Great value for a fresh, lightly oaked Chardy. (TR)
ARGENTINA ZUCCARDI Q CHARDONNAY 2016, TUPUNGATO, MENDOZA ($23)
This wine is better than ever, shaped by Sebastian Zuccardi’s lighter hand and inherent knowledge of soils. This wine was sourced from limestone laced soils of Tupungato, as well as Mendoza. Pure, light lemon is bedded with lees and salty spice in this bright, fresh, textural white. After direct press, this was native fermented in a mix of concrete and 20% oak, aged on the lees with no MLF, with freshness as aim. The mid-palate weight is now almost entirely lees-led (compared to the wood of the past), bedding white peach, lemon blossom, pears and fine toast. Salted cashews and lemon pith linger on the lengthy finish. Very complete, offering a friendly view of the exciting new world of Argentine Chardy. (TR)
CANADA TRIUS BARREL FERMENTED CHARDONNAY 2016, NIAGARA ($20)
Winemaker Craig Macdonald makes rich and compelling Chardonnays. This is a wine that’s drinking well now but will age beautifully with a year or two in bottle. Bright straw in colour, it shows a toasty apple and citrus nose. Medium-bodied and dry spicy flavours of apple and green pineapple fill the mouth, buttressed by well-integrated oak. (TA) SEPTEMBER 2018 47
BUYING GUIDE FLAT ROCK CELLARS CHARDONNAY 2016, TWENTY MILE BENCH, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT ($20)
Bright, pale straw colour. Apple and citrus nose with a suggestion of oak and a light floral note. Medium-bodied, dry, apple and lemon flavours. Well-balanced with a long finish. (TA) SUMMERHILL PYRAMID WINERY ORGANIC RIESLING 2017, OKANAGAN ($22)
Pure and minerally that rocks with lime, lemon, ginger, tangerine and river-rock minerality. It’s made in an off-dry style with the honey-sweet notes and a range of citrus and minerals held together nicely by mouth-watering acidity. (RV) JOIE FARM RE-THINK PINK ROSÉ 2017, VQA OKANAGAN VALLEY ($24)
Shows bright red cherry colour with red cherry, berry and a pinch of spice on the nose. Crisply dry in the mouth, showing cherry and background cranberry flavours with appetizing mineral grip. 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Gamay, made in the dry style of the Loire, this is rosé created with food top of mind. Will pair flexibly with hors d’oeuvres, salmon, chicken and charcuterie. (SW)
vineyard in the Kelowna region, this lifted, aromatic wine opens with white flowers and ripe pear, evolving to pear and green apple flavours backed by lively acidity, finishing with a squeeze of grapefruit and appetizingly dry mineral grip. (SW) JOIE FARM A NOBLE BLEND 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($26)
The blend is nearly half Gewürztraminer with the rest a combination of Riesling, Pinot Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc and Muscat. A spicy and aromatic nose of apricot, tropical fruits, lychee nut and grapefruit with a subtle note of ginger. It’s vibrant and fresh on the palate and made in a perfectly dry style with flavours of tropical fruits, citrus, lychee and interesting spice notes. (RV) CULMINA UNICUS GRÜNER VELTLINER 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($27)
This is an enthralling mélange of citrus, peach, grapefruit, herbs and enticing slate minerality on the nose. It is lean and nervy on the palate with a range of lemon, tangerine, white pepper, melon and minerals in a mouth-watering and fresh style all the way through a long finish. (RV)
food-friendly Muscat with moderate alcohol will appreciate this one. (SW) THIRTY BENCH SMALL LOT WILD CASK RIESLING 2016, NIAGARA ($30)
There is a beautiful floral note on the nose that leads to quince, lime, honey-dipped peach and subtle ginger and lime. More river-rock minerality and a lovely texture on the palate work well with the range of white flowers, succulent peach, grapefruit, lime-ginger and wild honey notes that all benefit from freshening acidity on the finish. (RV)
FRANCE BARON PHILIPPE DE ROTHSCHILD BARONNE CHARLOTTE 2016, GRAVES AC ($23)
A typical Bordeaux Blanc blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle, opening with mellow citrus, delicately honeyed and spicy scents. Smoothly rounded on the palate, presenting citrus and orchard fruit with a touch of stony mineral and a deft trace of oak rounding out the finish. (SW)
ITALY JOIE FARM UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2017, VQA OKANAGAN VALLEY ($25)
Lively tropical and citrus fruit with a whiff of ripe banana yield to clean citrus, tropical fruit and ripe apple flavours with hints of grapefruit and pineapple on the back palate. A stylishly crisp and food-friendly Okanagan Chardonnay. (SW) JOIE FARM PINOT BLANC 2017, VQA OKANAGAN VALLEY ($25)
Sourced entirely from the St. Hubertus 48 @ QUENCH_MAG
JOIE FARM EN FAMILLE RESERVE MUSCAT 2017, VQA OKANAGAN VALLEY ($28)
Made from 100% Moscato Gallo (Yellow Muscat) grown in Joie Farm’s Estate Vineyard on the Naramata Bench. Shows highly aromatic and pungent smoky, grapey and green herbal intensity. Concentrated grapey character persists on the very dry, crisp palate. Citrus and drying mineral notes appear on the back palate, finishing quite lean. Muscat’s emphatic character means you love it or you don’t. Fans of dry,
DELICATO NOBLE VINES 446 CHARDONNAY 2014, SAN BERNABE AVA, MONTEREY COUNTY ($20)
Showing the effects of bottle age, this one is deep straw gold in the glass with mellow lemon citrus and butterscotch on the nose. Juicy ripe citrus and tropical fruit flavours in a creamy buttery texture on the palate. It is balanced by still crisp acidity, with citrus and lightly toasted notes on the medium length finish. (SW)
XAD
HAVE WE MET?
ARMAGNAC DE MONTAL VSOP “This is delightfully delicate as far as Armagnac goes. From an excellent producer that’s been around since the 17th century, it’s juicy and redolent of sweet stone fruit, apple, orange peel and brown sugar, with penetrating warmth underscored by baking spices and brown butter.”
Beppi Crosariol The Globe and Mail
MEET THE FAMILY
MCO WINE TO COME
Pictured above 1987, XO, Hors d’Age, 1997 and VS. Also available Blanche d’Armagnac and older vintages starting from 1893. Good taste runs in the family.
Armagnac de Montal
www.mcowines.com
BUYING GUIDE MONTE DEL FRÁ CA’ DEL MAGRO CUSTOZA SUPERIORE 2015, DOC CUSTOZA SUPERIORE, VERONA ($24)
Richer, honeyed and floral, this is a lush blend of grapes: Garganega, Trebbiano Toscano, Tocai Friulano, Cortese, Chardonnay, Riesling Italico, Malvasia and Incrocio Manzoni. This spends 6 to 8 months on full lees in stainless steel to preserve bright acidity, which is needed to carry the sun-ripened weight of the grapes. Quince, ripe pear, honeydew melon and honeysuckle fills the expansive palate, remarkably slender at 13 degrees, to a warming gingersnap finish. Glazed duck, pork would be a lovely choice. (TR)
NEW ZEALAND VILLA MARIA SAUVIGNON BLANC CELLAR SELECTION SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017, MARLBOROUGH ($22)
Pink grapefruit, lime, nectarine, passion fruit and fresh peach juice. Zest acidity, medium body and a long fruity/mineral aftertaste. (ES) SPY VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, MARLBOROUGH ($22)
Very pale in colour with a hint of lime. Grassy, passion fruit aromas with notes of green beans fill the nostrils. Medium-bodied and dry, grapefruit and green plum flavours excite your taste buds. The flavour goes on and on. (TA)
of quince. Medium to full-bodied, dry, richly extracted flavours of quince and pear with an engaging ouch of bitterness on the finish. (TA)
fruits, peach and apricot, lean texture with soft acidity and a dry, tart finish. A classic match with coconut milk based curries. (GB)
UNITED STATES
ITALY
FETZER VINEYARDS BONTERRA VIOGNIER 2017, MENDOCINO COUNTY ($22)
Opens with the scent white flowers and ripe stone fruit. Generously ripe, lightly sweet stone fruit flavours come in a smoothly rounded texture with contrasting stony mineral and deftly balanced acidity. Easy charm and ideal as an aperitif. (SW)
MULLINEUX OLD VINES WHITE 2016, SWARTLAND ($35)
Light golden colour with a minerally nose 50 @ QUENCH_MAG
Grapey green fruit nose leads the way for full-flavoured green grape and citrus flavours with refreshingly clean acidity and stony mineral grip. (SW)
SOUTH AFRICA
RODNEY STRONG CHALK HILL CHARDONNAY 2015, SONOMA COUNTY ($27)
Reductive nose of apple, oak spice and toast. Full-bodied, richly extracted ripe pear and apple flavours lifted with spicy oak. Great length. (TA) ST. SUPÉRY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017, NAPA VALLEY ($30)
Passion fruit, nectarine, guava, pineapple, cucumber, lime and pink grapefruit explode out of the glass and onto the taste buds. There the acidity tidies everything up and helps carry the extended finale. (ES)
LA COURONNE CHARDONNAY 2016, FRANSCHHOEK VALLEY, CAPE OF GOOD HOPE ($30)
Rich, full and creamy with smoky peach and citrus flavours, vanilla and nutty, weighty but still shows good acidity. This barrel fermented style calls for a rich pairing such as poultry in rich cream or cheese based sauces. (GB)
OVER $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
RECOMMENDED AUSTRALIA AUSTRALIA
SOUTH AFRICA
CANTINE RIVERA MARESE 2017, CASTEL DEL MONTE BOMBINO BIANCO DOC ($20)
DANDELION VINEYARDS WONDERLAND OF THE EDEN VALLEY RIESLING 2017, EDEN VALLEY ($24)
Light and delicate with aromas and flavours of lime and a mix of citrus
WAKEFIELD WINES ST. ANDREWS CLARE VALLEY CHARDONNAY 2016, CLARE VALLEY ($44)
This is the winery’s flagship white, named for the historic property first established in 1892. This is sourced from the heart of Clare, from two
blocks in the historic St. Andrews vineyards, and planted to the French Bernard clone. From the famed terra rossa soils (red brown loam over limestone), this is whole berry pressed with juice cooled quickly to maintain freshness and delicacy. The juice is then cold-settled prior to fermentation in French oak barrels with batonnage for 9 weeks post fermentation, followed by 10 months on lees in new and 1-year-old French oak. All the treatments are certainly felt in this serious, full-bodied and creamy white, lined with lemon curd, hay, roasted almonds and savoury flinty notes. Pear, white peach, large flake salts are compacted into an impressive 12 degrees alcohol. Though the wood is evident at this very youthful stage, this wine was built for the future. So much freshness and finesse here now; drinks beautifully now after opening but will be a killer in a few years’ time. Cellar-worthy, and a highlight of the portfolio. (TR) SHAW + SMITH M3 VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2015, MT. LOFTY RANGES, ADELAIDE HILLS ($53)
Shaw + Smith winery was founded in 1989 by Michael Hill Smith (of Yalumba) and Martin Shaw (his cousin, a well-travelled wine consultant) with the goal of producing elegant, refined cool climate wines at a time when no one in Oz was talking about cool climate. They focused on Adelaide Hills for their project. This was whole bunch pressed and native fermented in new and used French oak, where it spent 9 months with some lees stirring, and another 2 months on lees in tank before bottling. The wood is present in this youthful, expressive wine, but handily balanced by weighted pear, white peach, apple and ample cream on the medium bodied palate. Hazelnuts, brioche, lemon pith layer on the confident, structural palate. Acidity backbones this lengthy wine, and river stones texture and bed it through the spicy, lingering finish. Drinking very well now, but will continue to gain in depth over 5+ years. If you can’t wait, pour with halibut, sablefish and fresh spring vegetables. (TR)
CANADA STRATUS WHITE 2014, NIAGARA ($38)
This assemblage is a blend of 54% Chardonnay, 35% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sémillon, 5% Viognier and 1% Gewürztraminer. It has an overt and expressive nose of tropical fruits, apple skin, peach, apricot and woodsy/savoury spice notes. Certainly a complex white blend on the palate with a range of fruits unlike any other white wine you will taste in Niagara to go with spice, integrated herbs and citrus notes on the finish. (RV) STRATUS CHARDONNAY 2015, NIAGARA ($48)
This possesses a beautiful nose of poached pear, fine oak spices (but kept in check), baked apple, underlying minerality/leesy notes and just a touch of lemon. It has wonderful mouthfeel and texture on the palate with concentrated fruits of apple and pear that marry well to the oak spices and minerals. It’s long and luscious on the finish with freshening citrus to keep lively. (RV)
FRANCE ANDRÉ ET MIREILLE TISSOT CHARDONNAY LES GRAVIERS 2014, ARBOIS, JURA ($48)
Golden yellow. Floral nose with ripe yellow fruits and fine oaky notes of butter. Full and fatty on the palate, with seductive floral and pure fruity flavours. Long finish, very elegant. (GBQc)
GREECE SANTO SANTORINI GRAND RESERVE ASSYRTIKO 2014, SANTORINI ($45)
Most Assyrtiko is vinified in the stainless steel, unwooded, purity of fruit style. That said, the wooded versions are on the rise, and in my esteem, this is the one that leads the pack, qualitatively. Full-bodied, this wine doles out honey, salty minerals, quince, pineapple, peach, banana and spice. There is strong Assyrtiko acidity on the palate that meshes with creamy notes. Excellent length. Lobster and cream-based dishes all the way! (ES)
ITALY BOTTAZZI MONTEROSSO COLLI TORTONESI TIMORASSO 2016, PIEDMONT ($40)
Floral, fruity, salty, wet-stone minerality and lightly peachy with a rich, grippy texture, high acidity, tight core and bone dry. The wine is fermented on the skins for 3 days and the vines are grown in sandy soils with rocks. The wine is a little unsettled, but has all the components to suggest that some age will allow all the components to become focused and integrated. The producer suggests waiting 3 to 5 years. Don’t feel shy to geek out over this one. A wonderful compliment to all things Italian, including a wild boar ragu. (GB) BOTTAZZI ITALO COLLI TORTONESI TIMORASSO 2016, PIEDMONT ($60)
Great focus, acidity, mineral and mouth-watering saltiness, so well integrated and balanced with a grippy, full texture from 7 days of skin contact during fermentation and clay rich soils, but the freshness and brightness of the wine shines through. Timorasso shares some similarity to Riesling as it ages. Keep an eye on this producer and this grape variety. Timorasso could very well become the next darling of wine professionals, somms and chefs due to its character and incredible food versatility. (GB)
UNITED STATES BIRICHINO JURASSIC PARK VINEYARD OLD VINES CHENIN BLANC 2016, SANTA YNEZ VALLEY ($55)
Lively, persistent and minerally with aromas and flavours of apple, pear and spice. Salty and chalky with a texture that’s both rich and fresh, likely as a result of combining the fruit from both an early and late harvest, finishing with bright acidity and length. The vines are own-rooted on sandy, limestone soils at an elevation of 1,100 feet. The wine was a perfect match with Asian-Peruvian cuisine (check out the menus at Coya in London, England, or La Mar in Santiago, Chile). (GB) SEPTEMBER 2018 51
BUYING GUIDE RECOMMENDED
DUCA CATEMARIO COLLEZIONE PRIVATA PINOT GRIGIO ROSÉ 2017, FRIULI, ITALY ($15)
AUSTRIA WEINGUT ALLRAM GAISBERG RIESLING RESERVE 2016, KAMPTAL ($36)
Loads of peach character with apricot and citrus, a generous, rich and full mouth-feel, gentle acidity, finishing dry, juicy and long. A versatile match with seafood. (GB)
ROSÉ CORNELLANA ROSÉ 2015, CACHAPOAL VALLEY, CHILE ($9)
Clear medium-deep orangey-pink. Medium nose of strawberries with a hint of marmalade and pie crust. Light-bodied, tasting of more fresh strawberries with some good green apple acidity. Drink yesterday. (RL)* VINA CONO SUR BICICLETA PINOT NOIR ROSÉ 2017, BIO-BIO, CHILE ($11)
One of the most consistent, best value brands on the market. I’ve yet to come across a wine that is disappointing and most are entirely overachieving, especially considering their humble price. I think that price causes these wines to be overlooked, but savvy shoppers know. This year’s rosé is another winner. Medium pink blush in the glass, this Bio-Bio sourced Pinot Noir is all sun-ripened strawberry, raspberry jam, candy apple and mountain air freshness in this just offdry pink. Chill down and stock up. (TR) 52 @ QUENCH_MAG
The two most popular categories at liquor boards across the country are Pinot Grigio and rosé, so you don’t have to be a marketing genius to come up with a winning concept of a Pinot Grigio rosé. Palest pink in colour, the scent of apple peel and rhubarb rise from the glass. Medium-bodied and dry on the palate, expect citrus and green plum flavours with zesty acidity. (TA) CHATEAU BELLEVUE LA FORÊT 2017, FRONTON, FRANCE ($15)
Fronton is a small appellation in South West France that uses the singular Négrette grape as it’s signature varietal. Here, it is blended with Gamay to produce a dry and tangy rosé with a personality of strawberry, lemon balm, herbs and pepper. Chill and serve with mild cheeses. (ES) CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES CUVÉE ANDRÉE ROSÉ 2016, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($16)
Deep pink in colour with a bluish tint, this tasty rosé has a nose of fresh raspberries. Medium-bodied and dry, flavours of raspberry and wild strawberries fill the mouth. A fruity wine with balancing acidity. Sip it outdoors or serve it with charcuterie. (TA) WINE FOR YOGA LOVERS SANGIOVESE ROSÉ 2017, LANGHORNE CREEK, AUSTRALIA ($17)
If someone showed me this label, I would pass. But if someone poured me a glass of this very pale, lightly spiced strawberry, wild raspberry, Rainier cherry, dried herbs, light bodied rosé, I would easily finish the glass and inquire what it is
while pouring a second. Gimmicky label and name aside, this is pretty serious Sangiovese rosé from Langhorne Creek. This achieves that tricky trifecta of fruit/ acidity/interest, the latter in this case is a swig of salted herbs. There’s a wee swell of warmth on the finish that surprises in this 12.5 degree frame, though that is easily overlooked by the numerous food pairing/patio pairing opportunities in this dry rosé. Props for making a real wine aimed at, I assume, a mass market audience of spandex-wearing yogi. Now, about that name/label (TR) TILIA MALBEC ROSÉ 2017, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA ($17)
Tilia is Latin for Linden, the traditional tree found throughout Mendoza. Its flowers are used to make a popular herbal tincture said to have calming properties. This export-driven wine was made by long-time Catena winemaker Leopoldo Kushner at Bodegas Esmeralda, from Malbec sourced from eastern and southern regions of Mendoza. Medium pale blush in hue and bone dry, this is white pepper spiced orange, cherry, wild raspberry, spring rhubarb, light smoke on a brisk palate, tightened with roasted tea leaves and lengthened by the lingering, salty finish. An impressive showing, all at a welcome 12.5 degrees alcohol. (TR) BODEGA SIERRA NORTE PASION DE BOBAL 2017, DO UTIEL-REQUENA, SPAIN ($18)
Ripe, round and glycerol-slicked, this youthful Utiel-Requena rosé is filled with fleshy strawberry, cherry jam and raspberry thorn spice. A medium-pink hue, this is entirely Bobal, a native grape to the region and one responsible for over 90% of plantings. This reflects the sun-baked
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BUYING GUIDE MALIVOIRE MOIRA ROSÉ 2017, NIAGARA ($25) THE BOMB, RIGHT HERE. THE MOST COMPLEX AND INTERESTING ROSÉ FROM NIAGARA I HAVE TASTED. MADE FROM 100% PINOT NOIR, THE NOSE IS TIGHT, DELICATE AND COMPLEX WITH A RANGE OF RED FRUITS AND FLORAL NOTES. IT SHOWS ITS TRUE BEAUTY ON THE PALATE WITH SUCH EXPRESSIVE CRUSHED RED BERRIES, LAYERS OF COMPLEXITY, EARTH AND BRAMBLE UNDERTONES AND TAUT TENSION BETWEEN THE ELECTRIC ACIDITY AND THE JUICY FRUITS ALL LEADING TO A FRESH, CLEAN AND SUPER-LONG FINISH. TBY RICK VANSICKLE
region, with jammy berry fruit, softer sides and moderate, though juicy, acidity. Pour this rustic red with grilled root veg or meat pies. (TR)
this requires a chill and drinking this summer for best effect. (TR)
STRATUS WILDASS ROSÉ 2017, NIAGARA ($19)
Pale hued, mineral salted and bone dry, tasted blind I’d swing to Provencal over Tuscany every time. And I’d be failing massively, every time, as this delicate and elegant rosé is a purpose-made Merlot dominant (Sangiovese splashed) rosé from the heart of Chianti Classico. The salted herbs/red fruits lures in this pale, elegant rosé, pouring a pale orange hue. Light florals weave throughout the subtle orange, wild raspberry, faint smoke and ample mineral on a lengthy finish. Though slight in frame (at 12.5 degrees), this carries ample intelligence and presence. (TR)
Cotton candy colour with an explosive bouquet of strawberry, raspberry, gooseberry, cassis, herbs and citrus. Medium-plus body with refreshing acidity and excellent length. There is just a touch of sweetness, so pair alongside tuna/salmon sashimi. (ES) MARISCO VINEYARDS THE NED PINOT ROSÉ 2016, WAIHOPEI VALLEY, MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND ($25)
Marlborough Pinot Noir is fruited up with 30% Pinot Gris in this fuller, juicy rosé. There’s ample spice riding a wave of plump cherry, raspberry fruit, red apple, finishing with a splash of spice and an ample dose of candied mandarin. Ripe, round and soft, with a good swig of sweet, 54 @ QUENCH_MAG
BARONE RICASOLI ALBIA ROSÉ 2016, IGT TOSCANA, ITALY ($29)
SOTO Y MANRIQUE NARANJAS AZULES ROSÉ 2016, DO CASTILLA Y LEON, SPAIN ($30)
If you’re familiar with most Spanish rosados, this pale orange hued Garnacha
rosé from Rueda will surprise. Husband and wife team (Sr. Soto and Sra. Manrique) began a project in 2012 to highlight what their homeland of Castilla y Leon is capable of. They found a small, high altitude (780 m) 12 ha vineyard of poor, limestone rich sandy clay soil, planted to Verdejo, Garnacha and Chardonnay, with vines 20 to 75-years-old. They make only three wines, including this purposeful rosé, all biodynamically farmed, native fermented and using ancient clay amphorae. This wine was whole bunch, gently crushed, immediately pressed off skins and fermented in stainless. Lees-led wild raspberry and wild strawberry is streaked with salted dried herbs and generously twisted with bergamot on the finish. There’s a lovely textural mid that makes this wine generous despite its slender 13 degree frame. Salted strawberries linger on the finish. Alive with energy and beautifully knit; if you shy away from Spanish rosés due to their punchy rusticity, try this. (TR)
RED $20 AND UNDER
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA FABRE MONTMAYOU MALBEC RESERVE 2015, MENDOZA ($17)
Dense purple-black in colour with a warm nose of cedar, toasty oak and black fruits, lifted with a light floral note. It’s medium to full-bodied, dry, savoury, with blackberry and black cherry flavours and fresh acidity. (TA) FINCA LAS MORAS BLACK LABEL MALBEC 2014, SAN JUAN ($19)
Dark berry fruit accented with cinnamon, clove and a splash of caramel on the nose leads the way for well-integrated dark fruit and spice on the palate. Harmonious and full-flavoured but rather subdued on the finish. (SW)
AUSTRALIA QUARISA TREASURES COONAWARRA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($18)
Dense purple-black in colour. Spicy, blackberry nose with a floral top note; medium-bodied, dry, fruity but firm with a clovey, tannic finish. (TA)
CHILE
here’s an inexpensive red that can match all your red meat dishes, with all the weight and flavour to stand up to steak or spicy ribs. Deep purple-ruby in colour, it offers a floral, spicy, blackberry nose with a liquorice note. Medium to full-bodied, richly extracted flavours of black plum carried on lively acidity fill the palate ending on a spicy cinnamon note. (TA) DOMAINE D’AUPILHAC LOU MASET 2016, LANGUEDOC ($16)
Ruby with a purple rim. Fresh red berries (strawberry, raspberry), a little spice, a metallic nuance, no perceptible oak. Medium body, bright fruity taste with notes of fruit stones. Great balance throughout. Enjoy now. (GBQc)
that will flatter many, especially for the price. Drink or hold. (ES)
SPAIN MONTBLANC 362 MERLOT 2013, DO CONCA DE BARBERA ($18)
Clear, deep garnet. Intense nose of blackberry jam seasoned with black pepper, tea and a dash of soy sauce. Medium-bodied and in good balance with black cherry and blueberry flavours. Spicy enough that I enjoyed it with a pepperoni pizza. Drink now. (RL)*
UNITED STATES CAMBRIDGE & SUNSET MERLOT 2014 ($16)
CHÂTEAU VIGNELAURE LA SOURCE 2010, AOC CÔTEAUX D’AIX-EN-PROVENCE ($18)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and a bit of Carignan, it shows a clear, very deep garnet. Interesting nose of plums, Cherry Heering, a definite splash of maple syrup, and prominent oak scents. Not a subtle wine, it is warm with alcohol and its acidity and tannins are both still firm, but the sour cherry and cranberry fruit is probably peaking now, so drink soon. (RL)*
Clear, medium-deep ruby. Fairly forward nose of prunes and strawberry jam with some pipe tobacco, vanilla and toast. Juicy on the palate, tasting of Evans cherries backed up with some smoky oak and still-noticeable tannins. Drink now. (RL)*
RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA
GÉRARD BERTRAND SAINT CHINIAN SYRAH/MOURVÈDRE 2015, LANGUEDOC ($18)
From a reputed producer, this wine packs lots of punch for the price. Firm, there is plum, blackcurrant, garrigue, spice, violets and earth qualities to be found. Very good to excellent length. Grilled meat all the way. (ES)
CATENA ALAMOS MALBEC 2016, MENDOZA ($17)
Scents of dark berry, cinnamon, clove, chocolate and a touch of herb give way to predominantly blackcurrant flavour with dark chocolate and a firmly dry, medium length finish. Well-made, consistently reliable value. (SW)
VINA TARAPACA GRAN RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MAIPO ($18)
On the nose, cassis, blackberry, plum, cherry, mint, herbs, liquorice and tobacco. Medium-plus body and tannins. Lengthy aftertaste. Drink until 2021, preferably with grilled tri-tip. (ES)
FRANCE OGIER HERITAGES CÔTES DU RHÔNE GRENACHE/SYRAH 2016, RHÔNE ($15)
With the BBQ season almost done,
GREECE MEGA SPILEO CUVÉE III MAVRODAPHNE/ CABERNET SAUVIGNON/AGIORGITIKO 2016, ACHAIA ($19)
From the Peloponnese region comes this assemblage of 40% Mavrodaphne, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Agiorgitiko. Intense and somewhat over-ripe, there is cherry syrup, blackberry jam, plum, vanilla, spice, mint and laurel. It is an unmistakable style
FRANCE CHATEAU D’AIGUEVILLE CÔTE DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2016, RHÔNE ($14)
Vivid, dense violet-purple colour. Lively, fresh, spicy, plummy, black cherry nose with some cedary notes and a hint of black pepper. Dry, medium-bodied, well-structured, spicy, tangy, youthful, fruity, raspberry and plum flavours with a lingering, crisp, gently cedary finish with a hint of mocha-chocolate. (TA) SEPTEMBER 2018 55
BUYING GUIDE DOMAINE CANET SYRAH 2015, IGP PAYS D’OC ($15)
Clear deep purplish-red. Forward, multi-layered nose that starts with a top note of violets, yielding to strawberry and blueberry jams in the glass, and finally a deep lingering aroma in the empty glass of dark berries, chocolate and oak spice. Medium-bodied, a hearty but still balanced wine. Will last another year. (RL)*
GREECE BOUTARI AGIORGITIKO 2015, NEMEA ($13)
Deep ruby in colour with a cedary nose of vanilla oak, ripe plum, lightly spicy with floral and graphite notes. This bargain-priced wine is medium-bodied, dry, with the flavour of red plums ending on grainy tannins with nicely integrated oak and a firm tannic finish. (TA)
SOUTH AFRICA SPIER MERLOT SIGNATURE COLLECTION 2016, WO WESTERN CAPE ($14)
Soft on the sides, sappy on the palate and snipped on the finish, this Merlot is sourced from vineyards 20 to 60 km from the coast in Swartland, Paarl, Overberg and Stellenbosch. Fruit from these 17 to 19-year-old-vines were cold soaked and fermented in stainless with ample pumpovers. Post-ferment, 20% saw time in stainless, with the remainder in contact with wood staves. Plum and cherry jam dominate, with some wet wood, medicinal cherry on the back end, choked out with spice. Though blocky in form, the soft sides 56 @ QUENCH_MAG
and jammy fruit will attract many cushy Merlot fans. (TR) BOEKENHOUTSKLOOF THE WOLFTRAP 2017, WO WESTERN CAPE ($14)
Ripe, dense and rich, opulent black fruit, cherry jam, resin and tar coat the palate of this Syrah, Mourvèdre and Viognier blend from sandy Franschhoek. Tannins are ample and supple, squeezing the sides of this full-bodied red. There’s a pretty floral lift on the end, perhaps a nod from the Viognier, though the rest of this blend is weighted down with some charcoal dust. Certainly an easy grilled meat partner. (TR)
URUGUAY AGROLAND COLINAS DE URUGUAY TANNAT 2013 ($20)
Typically heavily tannic, the Tannat grape seems to do particularly well in Uruguay. This example shows blackcurrant, piquant green herbal scent and background blackberry notes. Blackcurrant and blackberry flavours are backed by solid but approachable tannins with balanced acidity, culminating in a smoothly rounded, well-integrated finish. (SW)
$20.01 TO $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED SPAIN BODEGAS VOLVER PASO A PASO TEMPRANILLO 2015, CASTILLA LA MANCHA ($16)
Ruby purplish. Seductive red and black fruits, empyreumatic (smoke, toast). Nice freshness, rather full-bodied with great fruity core, the supple tannins are wrapped in fruit. Balanced finish of good length. This great buy is ready to drink. (GBQc)
UNITED STATES GNARLY HEAD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016, CALIFORNIA ($17)
This is a multi-versatile Cabernet that won’t break the bank. Smoke, tobacco, blackcurrant jam and plum surround notes of mint and cocoa. Very good length and ready to serve with tonight’s dinner. Let’s say steak with grilled vegetables. (ES)
ARGENTINA PIEDRA NEGRA RESERVA MALBEC 2015, UCO VALLEY ($20)
Dense purple-black in colour; cedary, black plum and cherry bouquet with a note of smoke. Medium to full-bodied, dry, earthy, black fruit flavours with a firm tannic finish. Hold from 2 to 3 years. (TA) TAPIZ ALTA COLLECTION MALBEC 2015, MENDOZA ($20)
Although the price of good Argentinian Malbec is creeping up, there are still some pretty great buys in the $20 range — just like this one. Dense purple in colour, it has a cedary, spicy nose of blackberries with a floral top note; it’s medium to full-bodied, dry and fruity with a lively acidity. Another terrific BBQ wine for your red meat dishes. (TA)
TRAPICHE PERFILES CALCAREO MALBEC 2016, MENDOZA ($22)
This is an example of Trapiche’s project seeking to demonstrate the impact of terroir in Argentina. Grapes were sourced from heavily calcerous soils in prime vineyard locations. On the nose, the wine shows attractively developed ripe berry, floral, spicy and leathery notes. Blackcurrant and blackberry flavours take over on the palate, with firm, dry tannic grip, black chocolate and dark fruit that persists on the finish. (SW) TRAPICHE GRAN MEDALLA MALBEC 2014, MENDOZA ($26)
Inky purple in colour, this is a substantial Malbec with blueberry, cassis, cherry, smoke, vanilla and distinctly spicy. Concentrated with loads of fruit and spice lingering long. Drink over the next 5 years. (ES) MASCOTA VINEYARDS UNANIME VINO TINTO 2014, VALLE DE UCO, MENDOZA ($30)
Floral and light herbal scents, together with dark fruit and spicy notes, pave the way for blackcurrant and blackberry in the mouth. Supporting tannins show velvety texture with a touch of dark chocolate and tobacco ash on the finish. (SW) BODEGA NOEMÍA A LISA 2016, RIO NEGRO, PATAGONIA ($32)
This is a very special collaboration between Danish winemaker Hans Vinding-Diers (cousin of Peter Sisseck of Pingus), and Countess Noemi Marone Cinzano. The project was inspired by the discovery of a small plot of old vine, pre-phylloxera Malbec in the Río Negro Valley. From that, they’ve produced a small range of Malbec, Malbec blends, rosé and Cabernet Sauvignon. A Lisa is a blend of Malbec with 9% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot, with a blend of estate and neighbouring fruit. Tight and chiseled, with pure black cherry, plum and thorny blackberry, housed by finely gritty tannins. Acidity is taut and direct, keeping this streamlined and narrow, tucked into its 13.5 degree frame. (TR)
AUSTRALIA TURKEY FLAT BUTCHERS BLOCK SHIRAZ/ GRENACHE/MOURVÈDRE 2015, BAROSSA VALLEY ($20)
If big, bold red wines are your bag, this is your wine. Deep purple in colour, it has a rich nose of blackberries and cedar with a note of iodine. Medium to full-bodied, you get concentrated flavours of sweet blackberry and plum with a chocolate note. An ideal BBQ wine, especially for pepper steak. (TA)
HASTWELL & LIGHTFOOT CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, MCLAREN VALE ($21)
Opaque plum red. Complex nose in which one can detect the aromas of raisins, light molasses, treacle toffee, dark chocolate, and even a bit of eucalyptus. Medium-bodied, tasting of blackcurrant, blackberry and stewed fruits with some herbal and green bell pepper overtones from the Cabernet Franc in the blend. Fruit is thinning, drink now. (RL)* PETER LEHMANN THE BAROSSAN SHIRAZ 2015, BAROSSA ($22)
Superb value! There is a good amount of oak in the form of coffee and chocolate, which weave between the dark cherry, damson plum, blackberry and eucalyptus. It is deeply coloured with firm tannins that will allow it to age for a decade. (ES)
VASSE FELIX FILIUS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, MARGARET RIVER, WESTERN AUSTRALIA ($27)
Dense purple-ruby in colour with a cedary, vanilla-laced nosed of blackcurrants. Medium to full-bodied, elegant blackcurrant flavour with a floral grace note; beautifully balanced with great persistence on the palate. (TA)
HOWARD PARK MIAMUP CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, MARGARET RIVER ($28)
Spicy, ripe, full and powerful, as one would anticipate from a Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon, one of the region’s hallmark grapes and one of the grape’s classic regions. This is sourced from numerous vineyard blocks in and around the subregion of Wilyabrup. Blocks are vinified separately, fermented in
tank, and matured in French oak for 18 months. Blackberry, black cherry is pushed through a charcoal filter, with a perfume of dark florals, anise emerging on the back end. Tannins are present, but sueded, and take a backseat to the fruit. Ample perfume, dusky black fruit, peppery spice fill the ripe palate, one that holds its poised form to the vanilla and cardamom-kissed finish. This is ready for drinking now, though will hold with time in cellar. (TR) VASSE FELIX FILIUS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, MARGARET RIVER ($30)
Rich and velveteen, this Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon is joined with 13% Malbec, flushing out Cab’s structural side with plush blueberry, blackberry jam and peppery spice. Ample dusky, brooding spices and extra ample sticky/tacky tannins house the ripe fruit, one that spent a backbone-building year in French oak (13% new). Savoury dark cherry, mint and sultry tobacco lingers on the finish. Though this certainly carries heft, it brings with it an impressive freshness to carry. This will be happy with a few more years in bottle, though showing very well now with airtime. (TR)
CANADA STRATUS WEATHER REPORT CABERNET FRANC 2015, NIAGARA ($28)
This inaugural Cabernet Franc from the new Weather Report series is a pretty nice drop at an attractive price. It shows a vibrant, intense colour in the glass with aromas of brambly raspberry, dark cherry, earth, currants, spice, vanilla and subtle herbs. It has intensity on the palate with flavours of wild raspberry, anise, tobacco, herbs and integrated spice with ripe, approachable tannins that all lead to a smooth finish. (RV) MALIVOIRE COURTNEY GAMAY 2016, NIAGARA ($30)
Up to 30% of the fruit is whole bunch pressed with 20% aged in ceramic. From the extremely warm 2016 vintage, this is the most concentrated version of the Courtney I have tasted. Expressive, penSEPTEMBER 2018 57
BUYING GUIDE CASTORO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, PASO ROBLES ($24) OPAQUELY DEEP PLUM RED. MEDIUM NOSE OF CASSIS AND BLACK CHERRY. MEDIUM-BODIED, TASTING MOSTLY OF BLACKCURRANT AND BLACK CHERRY, WHILE BOTH THE ALCOHOL AND THE TANNINS ARE QUITE PROMINENT. WILL IMPROVE FOR ANOTHER YEAR OR TWO. TBY RON LITEPLO
etrating and uber-ripe aromas of black cherry, red plum, rhubarb, raspberry bramble, redcurrants, earth and spice notes. A magical wine — it has depth, complexity, a full range of rich red and dark fruits. Integrated spice notes with plush tannins and enough acidity to keep it fresh on a long, long finish. (RV)
CHILE SAN PEDRO 1865 SINGLE VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, MAIPO ($20)
This friendly and well-priced Cabernet Sauvignon features cassis, blackberry, herbs/mint, spice, vanilla, black olive and violets. Full-bodied, it starts off fleshy, almost creamy, and then the tannins appear, turning the finale dry. (ES) CREMASCHI FURLOTTI SINGLE VINEYARD CARMENÈRE 2015, MAULE VALLEY ($23)
Dense purple in colour with a cedary, red pepper and blackcurrant nose. Medium-bodied, dry, well-balanced blackcur58 @ QUENCH_MAG
rant flavour with nicely integrated oak and a firm tannic finish. (TA) TABALI SYRAH RESERVA ESPECIAL VETAS BLANCAS 2015, LIMARI VALLEY ($25)
Juicy, fresh and savoury with cherries and blueberries, slightly meaty and smoky. A touch of pepper, well integrated, refined tannins with bright acidity and mineral on the finish. The vineyards are located only 24 km from the Pacific Ocean. The cool, maritime breezes contribute to the wine’s vibrant character. Chill slightly and enjoy with grilled veal chops or hand-chopped tartar. (GB)
FRANCE VILLA PONCIAGO LA RÉSERVE FLEURE 2015, BEAUJOLAIS ($20)
A very flavourful Beaujolais! Dense purple in colour with a spicy, cedary, blackcurrant and plum bouquet. Medium-bodied, fruity and dry, cherry and red plum flavours. (TA)
CHATEAU VIEUX CLOS 2011, GRAND CRU SAINT-ÉMILION ($27)
Clear, very deep browning garnet. Nose of prunes, blueberries, sweet black licorice and a hint of sage from the Cabernet Franc in the blend. Soft and warm on the palate, medium-bodied with appropriate acid and tannin levels, sour cherry flavours leading to a long finish. Drink today, perfect with the Sunday joint. (RL)* CHATEAU VIEUX CLOS 2015, GRAND CRU SAINT-ÉMILION ($27)
Clear, very deep pinkish garnet. Medium intensity nose of candied prunes, mashed berries and cedar. Medium-bodied with quite high acidity. The warm year produced ripe berry flavours and noticeable alcohol and tannins, which need another year or two to integrate. (RL)* CHÂTEAU DE CHAMIREY 2015, MERCUREY, BURGUNDY ($28)
Light ruby. Enticing red fruits, delicate oak and earthy notes with hints of fruit stones and soft spices. Light to medium
body, soft texture in the expansive, round mid-palate. Intense fruity flavour leading to a balanced, barely tannic finish. Enjoyable now or hold 4 to 5 years. (GBQc) CHÂTEAU CAPBERN GASQUETON 2012, AOC SAINT-ESTÈPHE ($33)
Opaquely dark garnet. Mature, medium-strength nose of raisins, treacle toffee and a nice bit of barnyard. Medium-bodied, tasting of blackcurrant and other dark berries. An elegant, clearly Old-World wine. Tannins are still prominent but the fruit may be thinning. Drink soon. (RL)*
and bitter cherry. Classic, food friendly acidity, spicy dark fruit, agreeable tannic bite and a touch of almond on the long, satisfying finish make this a great example of Dolcetto the way it was meant to be! (SW)
olate and spicy undertones. The 15% alcohol punches alongside a certain richness on the palate. Excellent length. Serve alongside a coffee-crusted ribeye now or over the next 5 years. (ES)
GERARDO CESARI JEMA CORVINA 2012, VERONA, VENICE ($31)
IRONY SMALL LOT RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, NORTH COAST ($25)
Dark ruby, garnet rim. Red and black fruits, floral notes, dried herbs and integrated oak on the complex, deep nose. Full-bodied and with a good density in the mid-palate, the melted tannins remain firm. Finish is round, overall very nice right now. (GBQc)
CHÂTEAU PEY LA TOUR RÉSERVE 2014 BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR ($39/1.5 L)
Ruby purplish. Discreet nose of black fruits, toasted oak and a touch of iodine. Supple attack, soft texture in the concentrated mid-palate of finely grained tannins. Balsamic notes develop on the palate. Finish is firm, quite long. Drink or hold. Merlot with 10% Cab. Sauv. and 2% Petit Verdot. (GBQc)
GREECE BOUTARI GRANDE RESERVE NAOUSSA XINOMAVRO 2012, MACEDONIA ($25)
Made from 100% Xinomavro, this wine is a dead ringer for a quality Barolo — for half the price. Full-bodied and complex, there is cherry, plum, herbs, tomato paste, tar, leather and rose. Grippy, there is high acidity, so best serve alongside beef brochettes or braised lamb chops. (ES)
ITALY MICHELE CHIARLO LE ORME 2015, BARBERA D’ASTI DOCG ($20)
Classic varietal aromatic spicy plum introduces flavours of black plum with a splash of dark chocolate, grippy tannins and drying sour cherry bite on the finish. A stylish Barbera showcasing characteristic ripeness of the 2015 vintage. (SW) G.D. VAJRA 2016, DOLCETTO D’ALBA DOC ($29)
Kicks off with lively plum, black cherry and spice on the nose introducing succulent, mouth-filling flavours of black plum
This multi-appellation blend from Northern California is made in a crowd-pleasing style with plum, dark cherry, blackcurrant, mint, spice, cocoa and vanilla. The tannins are suave and the fruit echoes long. Ready to drink. (ES) CLINE PINOT NOIR 2016, SONOMA COAST ($26)
NEW ZEALAND TRINITY HILL THE TRINITY RED BLEND 2014, HAWKES BAY ($23)
A blend of Merlot, Tempranillo, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Syrah. Deep ruby in colour with a cedary, savoury-herbal nose of black fruits. Medium-bodied, dry, with forward flavours of blackberry, plum, black liquorice and iodine, finishing with ripe tannins. (TA)
SOUTH AFRICA ERNIE ELS BIG EASY RED 2016, WESTERN CAPE ($20)
It was, perhaps, inevitable that when Ernie Els, the South African golfer, put his name to a wine, it would be called by his nickname, Big Easy. It’s a fruit salad blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsaut, Grenache, Viognier and Mourvèdre. Dense purple in colour, its bouquet is an amalgam of wood spice, cedar, smoke and blackberry with a note of leather. Medium to full-bodied, it’s dry on the palate with plum and prune flavours carried on a rush of fresh acidity. A great barbecue wine. (TA)
UNITED STATES CLINE ANCIENT VINES ZINFANDEL 2016, CONTRA COSTA COUNTY ($23)
I have always been a fan of this bottling! Jammy plum, blackberry and cherry fruit mesh with raisin, vanilla, choc-
The vineyard for this wine is situated in the cool ‘Petaluma Gap’, which is slated to become Sonoma’s next AVA. Sweet cherry, raspberry jam, plum, cinnamon and violets coat the palate and are supported by lovely acidity and smooth tannins. (ES) BUENA VISTA PINOT NOIR 2014, CARNEROS ($30)
A melange of plum, earth, smoke, herbs, red flowers and vanilla flow from the glass. It is somewhat jammy on the palate with some alcohol creeping in on the grand finale. Ready to drink. (ES) JACKSON FAMILY WINES LA CREMA PINOT NOIR 2016, MONTEREY COUNTY ($30)
Very light in colour, showing fine red cherry and floral scents together with a whiff of herb on the nose. Pleasantly ripe refined cherry flavours persist on the palate with a touch of spice and a light splash of milk chocolate. (SW) JACKSON FAMILY WINES EDMEADES ZINFANDEL 2014, MENDOCINO COUNTY ($30)
Weighing in at a robust 15.5% alcohol, this is nonetheless a rather refined Zinfandel, offering ripe berry fruit, fine peppery spice and a whiff of herb, tamed down wild berry character and an agreeable splash of chocolate. (SW) FETZER VINEYARDS 1000 STORIES ZINFANDEL 2016, CALIFORNIA ($33)
Aging in Bourbon casks gives this hefty wine plenty of flavour and character, not to mention heady alcohol (15.5%). On the SEPTEMBER 2018 59
BUYING GUIDE nose, red berry and wild berry flavours are accented with plenty of peppery spice. The tone shifts to rich blackberry in the mouth, supported by velvety tannins, dessert-like cherry chocolate flavours with a touch of spirity warmth on the finish. (SW)
RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA TRIVENTO AMADO SUR 2015, MENDOZA ($20)
This is mainly Malbec blended with Bonarda and Syrah to produce a forward, perfumed wine showing ripe dark berry, blackcurrant, cinnamon, clove and minty herbal notes. Rounded and velvety smooth, with milk chocolate and sweet ripe fruit lingering on the finish. Emphatically fruity New World style. (SW) BODEGA EL ESTECO MALBEC 2015, CALCHAQUI VALLEY ($24)
Shows dark fruit with evident note of plum, subtle cinnamon and a deft hint of oak. Solidly structured with firm, dry tannins and dark chocolate culminating in a firm, well-integrated finish. (SW) NORTON PRIVADA 2016, MENDOZA ($26)
This Malbec-led blend is sourced from vineyards in Lujan de Cuyo and Maipu. Warmly scented with redcurrant, red berry, subtle spice and a suggestion of oak, it shifts to blackcurrant and blackberry flavours in the mouth. Shows good overall balance and depth of flavour with moderate tannins and a splash of dark chocolate, finishing a touch short. (SW) 60 @ QUENCH_MAG
AUSTRALIA JIM BARRY THE COVER DRIVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, COONAWARRA ($28)
Ready to drink. Beaujolais can be really interesting if you avoid the large industrial producers. (GBQc)
Cured meats, cassis, redcurrant is imbued with light smoke and leather in this ripe Coonawarra cab. Medicinal, minted redcurrant and cherry come across thick and ripe on the dense palate, with soft plushy tannins and seasoned with Worcestershire, damson plum, salty olives. Sweet tobacco, perfumed, sweet jam fruit on the compact palate finish with cedar spicing. This is a rough and ready, plucky big red, perfect for your juicy grilled burgers and chips. (TR)
CHATEAU VIEUX CLOS 2007, GRAND CRU SAINT-ÉMILION ($27)
WAKEFIELD WINES JARAMAN SHIRAZ 2016, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($30)
KATOGI AVEROFF XINOMAVRO 2013, DO NAOUSSA, NEMEA ($31)
Nearly equal parts Clare and McLaren Vale, this deep, full and sun-ripened Shiraz was cold soaked prior to fermentation, and then into American oak for a short stint before bottling. Thick on the palate, compounded by wood and super ripe fruit, this is medicinal black cherry, cassis, ample pepper and eucalypt on a dense, kissed-with-vanilla palate. Too much of too much; if you’re looking for an intense Aussie Shiraz, devoid of place but full of intent (richness), here you go. (TR)
Deep, slightly murky brownish-garnet. Medium nose of dates, raisins, burnt sugar and oak, later opening to a touch of lilac. On the palate, the mostly raspberry fruit tastes fresher than it looks or smells. Acidity is high, tannins at a medium level. Drink yesterday. (RL)*
GREECE
Light mint, crushed cassis, wild scrubby herbs and elegant purple florals fill this Xinomavaro through the mid-palate. It’s Barolo-esque up front, even pouring with a brown tint in the glass. However, as soon as you get to the finish, the raging, grippy Xino tannins take over, stripping this of easy drinking pleasure if you’re not consuming with lamb or ribs. There’s a lovely freshness that carries this compact wine, though those tannins require serious protein or a day in the decanter to mitigate now. (TR)
FRANCE ITALY PIERRE-MARIE CHERMETTE COEUR DE VENDANGES 2016, BEAUJOLAIS, BURGUNDY ($25)
Purplish. Fresh nose of red fruits (strawberry, raspberry) with a little earthiness. Half-bodied with delicious fruit in the mid-palate. Tender, soft tannins getting barely firm in the finish.
GERARDO CESARI MARA VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO SUPERIORE 2015, VENICE ($20)
Dark ruby, purplish reflections. Discreet nose of red fruits, a floral touch. Very supple on the palate, soft tannins, tame acidity, fruit forward. Easy to drink, so enjoy now. (GBQc)
BOTTAZZI BRIC DEI SERPENTI COLLI TORTONESI BARBERA SUPERIORE 2015, PIEDMONT ($30)
Big cherry fruit, loads of fresh herbs and tamed acidity, shows some richness but the freshness dominates. Quite tight, young and a little nervous. Some additional time in the bottle will allow this to settle and become more integrated and focused. (GB) CANTINE RIVERA IL FALCONE 2012, CASTEL DEL MONTE ROSSO RISERVA DOCG ($34)
Opens on the nose with spicy red fruit showing scents of plum in the foreground. The opening theme carries through on the palate with lively red plum flavours overlaid with intriguing smoky notes suggestive of charred bacon. Finishes with stiff tannic grip. Better with another 2 to 3 years in the cellar. (SW)
UNITED STATES JOEL GOTT MERLOT 2014, CALIFORNIA ($25)
A pleasant “drink up” Merlot featuring plum, cherry, chocolate, vanilla and some herbal elements. The palate is four square and it is made in a style for the masses. (ES)
OVER $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA TRAPICHE TERROIR SERIES FINCA AMBROSIA 2013, GUALTALLERY, MENDOZA ($43)
Very complex nose unfolds developed, refined dark fruit, fine spice and a whiff of minty herb. Lightly sweet ripe dark fruit flavours show blackberry and blackcurrant, supported by solid but approachable tannins with a lick of dark chocolate on the medium length finish. (SW) BODEGA EL ESTECO ALTIMUS 2013, CALCHAQUI VALLEY ($50)
Opens with complex, aromatic fresh blackberry together with background
plum, cinnamon, clove and a whiff of herb. Mouth-filling flavours of ripe dark plum and blackberry are backed by very dry tannins and dark baker’s chocolate on the well-integrated finish. Give it another 2 to 3 years in the cellar. (SW)
gering sweetness on top of the super ripe fruit. Dense and hot, but with élan, this drinks well now with richer beef dishes, but will reward cellaring. (TR)
CANADA NORTON LOTE FINO AGRELO MALBEC 2010, LUJAN DE CAYO, MENDOZA ($53)
This 100% Malbec is sourced from old vines in a single vineyard, Fino Agrelo. The richly complex nose reveals bottle-developed vinosity with harmonious spice and a delicate whiff of vanilla. Fine, developed blackberry flavours are supported by firm, but not overbearing tannic grip, with lingering dark fruit, black chocolate and spice on the finish. (SW)
AUSTRALIA WEST CAPE HOWE BOOK ENDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, MT. BARKER, WESTERN AUSTRALIA ($38)
Mount Barker is a region at the southernmost point of Western Australia, eastward of famed and coastal Margaret River, and gaining acclaim on its own stead. This is classic Western Oz, with juicy, full-bodied blue and black fruits, plush tannins and ample coastal freshness to carry. Eucalyptus is omnipresent, from first sniff to lingering finish, flushed out with plum, blueberry, cassis on a steely, lingering finish. Tannins are ample, but comfortable in the background, supporting the fruit. This strikes the ideal balance between ripeness, acidity, fruit — plus that bonus point of restraint. (TR) WAKEFIELD WINES ST. ANDREWS SHIRAZ 2015, CLARE VALLEY ($58)
This wine contains some of the oldest vines on the family estate, first planted in 1892. Ample and alluring red raspberry, mulberry and cracked peppercorn and threaded with medicinal cherry/kirsch and lifted with a thread of potent acidity. Peppercorns scent the whole, and sticky tannins, vanilla-lined, prop this up. After fermentation and ample hands-on time, this spent 20 months in American oak prior to bottling. The wood is evident but well integrated, leaving an additional lin-
THIRTY BENCH SMALL LOT CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, NIAGARA ($49)
Winemaker Emma Garner has crafted a pretty Cabernet Sauvignon with ripe blackberries, cherries, raspberry bramble, leather and spice notes on the nose. It does have tannic structure, but not overbearing, with lovely red and dark fruits, elegant spice notes and already well on its way to being perfectly integrated. (RV) WAKEFIELD WINES 2015 ST. ANDREWS SINGLE VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON, CLARE VALLEY ($58)
This Clare Cabernet is from this historic St. Andrews property, first planted in 1892. Rich and full, with roasted coffee bedding, this is a dense, thick and potent red, with medicinal cherry leading and tobacco, cassis and cedar filling out the rest of the ample 14.5 (minimal) fleshy frame. Tannins are wood-strident and opaque at this youthful stage, enough to hold up the very ripe fruit. The finish burns with wooden alcohol, requiring rich and fatty ribs to counter now or, better yet, time in the cellar to lessen the impact. (TR) FOREIGN AFFAIR APOLOGETIC RED 2015, NIAGARA ($70)
This is made from 100% Cabernet Franc, with 50% of the grapes dried appassimento style for two months. A big, heady nose of figs, blackcurrants, kirsch, leather, blackberries, mature red fruits and a range of barrel oak spices. It has incredible depth of fruit on the palate, from dark cassis and currants to fortified cherry/raspberry notes with added espresso bean, spice, anise, a mélange of integrated herbs, smooth tannins and a long, long finish. (RV) FOREIGN AFFAIR CABERNET FRANC 2010, NIAGARA ($110)
Every single grape that went into this wine was dried for 100-plus days and was aged for 27 months in French oak SEPTEMBER 2018 61
BUYING GUIDE barrels. The aromas on the nose of this behemoth teem with thick, juicy waves of blackcurrants, figs, kirsch, savoury herbs, cigar-box cedar, toasty vanilla, campfire smoke and rousing spice notes. It is a substantial wine on the palate but as generous as it is, it still shows rather nicely at this point in its short evolution. The flavours range from jammy cherry/currant compote to rich blackberries and raspberry bramble with notes of sweet tobacco, dark chocolate and thick spices all delivered on a plush bed of tannins. (RV)
FRANCE CHÂTEAU BELGRAVE 2012, HAUT-MÉDOC GRAND CRU CLASSÉ ($54)
Very dark ruby. Deep nose of black fruits, a fair dose of oak, spicy liquorice. Very smooth at first, full-bodied with tannins lost in the generous fruity extract. Finish is a bit dull due to a slight lack of acidity at this stage. Will time improve this? Cab Sauv with one third Merlot. (GBQc)
ITALY
on the palate, showing fine red fruit, though still youthful, aggressive acidity. Should be drinking well with another 3 years aging. (SW) MARCHESI ANTINORI PIAN DELLE VIGNE 2013, BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO DOCG ($65)
62 @ QUENCH_MAG
UNITED STATES
Leads off with refined spice, scents of cherry, plum and overtones of dried fruit. On the palate, the wine is already showing harmonious vinosity with integrated cherry, plum and berry fruit. Berry, dark chocolate and tobacco notes linger on the finish. (SW)
SOKOL BLOSSER PINOT NOIR 2014, WILLAMETTE VALLEY, OREGON ($36)
ORNELLAIA E MASSETO L’ESSENZA 2014, BOLGHERI SUPERIORE, TUSCANY ($199)
BOOTLEG RED 2013, NAPA COUNTY ($45)
This is the wine also known as Ornellaia, the producer name used to be Tenuta dell’Ornellaia. The changes are meant to reinforce Masseto as a brand. Ruby purplish. Smoky nose, red and black fruits, spicy notes, already complex. Soft and smooth on the palate, dense, ripe mid-palate with firm yet velvety tannins. The slight astringency will soften over time. Disassembled at this early stage, acidity and oak are opposing each other, patience is on the order and will be rewarded. Wait 10 to 15 years. (GBQc)
MICHELE CHIARLO TORTONIANO 2014, BAROLO DOCG ($62)
2014 was a difficult vintage with heavy rains requiring careful pruning and cluster thinning. Better weather in August saved the day, carrying through to a relatively late harvest in October. This example shows characteristic Nebbiolo scents of violets together with elegant red fruit and a whiff of cinnamon and clove. It is surprisingly approachable
berry flavours with structure from high tannins. Interesting, elegant and sophisticated. A food wine: try it with grilled lamb or goat chops. (RL)*
PORTUGAL QUINTA VALE DE FORNOS CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVA 2013, DOC TEJO ($37)
Clear, deep plum red. Nose of tart red berries and raisins with underlying vanilla oak and a touch of barnyard. On the palate, there are cherry and mixed
Medium ruby in colour; lightly floral nose of cherries with spicy oak notes. Medium-bodied, dry, firmly structured, red cherry flavour a well-balanced wine with a firm tannic structure. (TA)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot! Dense purple in colour with a cedary, lightly floral nose of plum and blackcurrants with cedary, spicy notes. Full-bodied, dry with black fruit flavours and a firm tannic finish. (TA) ROBERT MONDAVI MAESTRO 2014, NAPA VALLEY ($60)
73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Cabernet Franc, 2% each Merlot and Petit Verdot. Dense purple in colour with a cedary, blackcurrant bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, ripe plum and currant flavours with a dark chocolate note. A beautiful wine, firmly structured. Drinking well now but will reward cellaring a couple of years. (TA) LEVENDI SWEETWATER CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, NAPA VALLEY ($70)
Levendi means “handsome man/ eye-pleasing,” and indeed this wine will please those who enjoy jammy reds decked in oak. It hits the senses with
blackberry, crème de cassis, cherry liqueur, vanilla, smoke and mint. Full-bodied and ready to drink. (ES)
um-bodied, sweet, richly extracted peach and mango flavours. (TA)
no bitterness and more carbonic gas is released in the mouth, giving a simple, very refreshing experience. (GBQc)
MESSIAS LBV 2013, PORTUGAL ($25) TREFETHEN CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, OAK KNOLL ($90)
Planted on rocky, well-drained soils, this Cab possesses a dark ruby/purple colour and features a gorgeous nose of crème de cassis, boysenberry, blackberry, mint, anise and cocoa. Powerful and linear, there are enough tannins to allow 15 years of cellaring. (ES) EISELE PICKETT CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, NAPA VALLEY ($97)
Dense purple-black in colour. Cedary, herb-tinged blackcurrant bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, richly extracted, savoury, creamy blackcurrant flavours with mocha chocolate notes. Well-structured with a firm tannic finish. A gorgeous wine. (TA) PAUL HOBBES CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, NAPA VALLEY ($145)
Dense purple-black in colour with a cedary, plum and vanilla nose. Full-bodied, rich and flavourful Morello cherry and plum flavours. Lovely mouth-feel with cocoa powder tannins. (TA)
BEFORE & AFTER DINNER ADEGAME DORY 2016, LISBOA IGP, PORTUGAL ($17)
This red blend from Lisbon is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Syrah and Tinta Roriz. Fresh, juicy and easy drinking, there is plum, cherry, cassis, violets and black pepper. Solid length and tailored for grilled sausages or roast pork loin. (ES) PONDVIEW GOLD SERIES VIDAL ICEWINE 2015, ONTARIO ($20/200 ML)
Old gold in colour with a nose of honeyed peach and a spicy botrytis note; medi-
Deeply coloured, this LBV dishes out intense plum, blackberry, dark cherry, raisin, chocolate and spice. Round, mouth-filling and sweet. Excellent length and ready to drink. (ES) RAMOS PINTO LBV 2013, PORTUGAL ($32)
An unfiltered style of LBV, the wine is opaque black/purple with a soaring bouquet of plum, blackberry, crème de cassis, raspberry, violets, raisins and spice. Concentrated, powerful and sweet, it is very much enjoyable right now but should age well for a decade. (ES) DOMAINE HUET CLOS DU BOURG PREMIÈRE TRIE 2003, VOUVRAY MOELLEUX, FRANCE ($148)
Enticing, complex nose of exotic fruits, butterscotch, cold tea. Rich on the palate, not very sweet, fresh acidity. Its age explains the signs of oxidation in the otherwise very long and intense finish. A wine to sip after a special meal. (GBQc)
BEER & CIDER BRASSEURS DU MONDE SOLERA PALE ALE, SAINT-HYACINTHE, QUÉBEC ($5/500 ML)
As its name implies, the beer was aged in a solera system similar to what is used for sherry. Golden yellow, slightly hazy. Light nose, citrusy with floral and delicate notes of hops. Quite acidic (coming from the acidophilus bacteria that exist in the solera) and refreshing. Fully dry, clean taste and short finish. (GBQc) BRASSERIE VROODEN BERLINER WEISSE SOUR ALE, GRANBY, QUÉBEC ($6/500 ML)
Made with 50% wheat and German malt and hops. Very pale yellow with lots of snow white foam. Fresh nose of coriander, announcing sourness in the mouth. Very sour taste, delicate flavour,
BRASSEURS RJ TITANIC STRONG BEER ON LEES, MONTRÉAL, QUÉBEC ($10)
Brown colour with a dark orange rim. On the nose, you get toffee, soft spicy notes, sweet malt. Medium body with a rich taste and a creamy texture. Very soft and no bitterness in the finish. (GBQc)
SPIRITS MASTER’S SELECTION LONDON DRY GIN, SPAIN ($36)
This Spanish gin undergoes a complex triple distillation process in which juniper, coriander and cardamom are infused into grain spirit, with lemon and orange citrus, including some whole fruit, with bitter Seville orange infused later. Juniper, coriander and citrus all come through on the aromatic nose, with sweet citrus and refined herbal flavours more pronounced on the ultra-smooth palate. (SW) FORTY CREEK HERITAGE RESERVE WHISKY 40%, CANADA ($75)
Complex and refined nose presents fine fruity, spicy and toasted oak aromas together with an intriguing whiff of ginger. Big, generously flavoured and creamy in the mouth, showing lightly fruity, nutty and even buttery character, finishing with a touch of fiery spirit and lingering elegant, oaky dryness. (SW) FORTY CREEK SPIKE WHISKY 40%, CANADA ($30)
Normally, I prefer my spirits unadulterated, but this one, lightly infused with honey, has made me a convert. It reveals a distinctive honeyed scent overlaid with cinnamon spice, together with citrus fruit, vanilla and caramel. Flavours of citrus and darker fruits kick in on the smoothly rounded palate, finishing with agreeable warming spirit and nutty dry oak. A fine after-dinner sipper and another exceptional value. (SW) SEPTEMBER 2018 63
FIELD NOTES GURVINDER BHATIA
HEAT AND INTENSITY TO UNDERSTAND THE CURRENT STATE OF SICILY’S WINE INDUSTRY,
one needs to first understand the history of modern wine production on this island located at the tip of the toe of Italy’s boot. I’ve previously written of Sicily’s status as Italy’s largest producer of wine by volume — for most of the past century, the focus was on quantity rather than quality. In fact, due to the heat and intensity of the sun, there was an abundance of dark and overly alcoholic wine intentionally produced to ship throughout Europe for blending into wines across the continent, contributing colour and potency. The 1980s and 1990s brought an increased focus on quality, but also a misguided, as it turned out, attraction to international grape varieties and the unfortunate and short-sighted uprooting of native grape varieties. Despite a few exceptions, most notably Syrah, the past two decades have shown that most international grapes are not well suited to the 64 @ QUENCH_MAG
island’s hot climate. The rash of mediocre and monolithic Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay, and the mostly incompatible blends with native grapes contributed to the misperception that because of the climate, Sicilian wines were all dark, heavily alcoholic and lacking elegance and freshness. Nothing, as it turns out, could be further from the truth. Fortunately, there is now a renewed interest in Sicily’s native grapes which, not surprisingly, are better suited to the island’s microclimates and soils. This combined with better viticulture, winemaking and an understanding of the significant diversity of elevations, soils, microclimates and maritime influences has led to the production of wines that are fresh, lively, elegant and minerally, thus helping to correct the misperception that all Sicilian wines are heavy and hot. There are many fresh, bright and delicious reds being produced — COS Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Occhipinti Frap-
pato, Gulfi Nerojbleo, Feudo Montoni Vrucara and Pietradolce Etna Rosso to name a few. But Sicily’s focussed and energetic white wines from native grapes Carricante, Grillo, Inzolia and even Catarratto (which was most often used as a workhorse grape to produce rather uninspiring wines) are deservedly receiving widespread acclaim (see page 28). These vibrant white wines are also helping to beat into submission any misconceptions that still remain of Sicily as an excessively hot region only capable of producing blending wines to add colour and alcohol. The quality of Sicily’s white wines was reinforced earlier this year at the Sicilia en Primeur organized by Assovini Sicilia and held in Palermo. Not surprisingly, the wines produced using native grape varieties impressed me the most. From the slopes of Mount Etna to the coastal vineyards to the interior mountains, Sicily’s vibrant, focussed, fresh and versatile whites are worth seeking out.
GULFI CARJCANTI 2014, DOC SICILIA ($30)
Notes of tropical fruit and preserved lemons with great focus. Minerally, fresh and rich texture, slightly tart with a savouriness, elegant and complex with an appealing persistence. PIETRADOLCE ETNA BIANCO ARCHINERI 2017, DOC ETNA ($40)
Focussed and linear, herbal and savoury with penetrating flavours, complexity and depth with a mineral, elevated, salty finish. BENANTI ETNA BIANCO 2016, DOC ETNA ($30)
Mineral and salty with bright acidity and great length, nice texture in the mid-palate that makes the wine slightly less angular but does not detract from its linear path. Good depth and a mouth-watering finish. FEUDO MONTONI GRILLO DELLA TIMPA 2017, DOC SICILIA ($20)
From grapes grown on steep slopes at high elevation, the wine shows notes of stone fruit and floral blossoms with a brightness on the palate, great balance, soft acidity and a persistent, lifted finish. FEUDO MACCARI GRILLO OLLI 2017, DOC SICILIA ($20)
Aromas and flavours of citrus, pineapple and fresh herbs, textural with soft acidity, mineral notes with a slight salinity on the finish. FEUDO MONTONI INZOLIA FORNELLI 2017, DOC SICILIA ($15)
Floral notes with pear, melon and honey, slightly grippy texture and well balanced with savoury notes and a minerally finish. “Fornelli” comes from the ancient ovens in which clay was cooked to create amphora for winemaking, as well as containers to store oil, vases, ornamental tiles and bricks for construction. TERRE DI GIURFO INSOLIA SULICCENTI 2017, DOC VITTORIA ($15)
Aromas of flowers and lemon blossoms. Flavours of fresh apple, herbs and citrus; medium-bodied texture while still maintaining freshness and nice salinity on the finish. FEUDO MONTONI CATARRATTO MASSO 2017, DOC SICILIA ($20)
Aromas and flavours of citrus and fresh herbs, nice weight and texture, mineral notes with fresh acidity and a long finish. The vineyard site is at 700 metres on sandy, rocky, mineral-rich soils.
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Aromas of fresh herbs, topical fruit with lemony citrus. Fresh fruit with good acidity and a touch of bitter almond on the finish. ×
RosehillWineCellars.com SEPTEMBER 2018 65
AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER
ON THE WORLD STAGE For the past 14 years I have been judging Canadian wines at the Decanter World Wine Awards in London. This year, there were over 17,000 entries from all over the world, making it the largest such competition on the planet.
Our Canadian panel for the past nine years has consisted of Barb Philip MW, a buyer for BC’s liquor monopoly, Rhys Pender MW, a wine writer and educator who owns his own small winery in BC’s Similkameen Valley called Little Farm, and myself as Chair. The fourth member of the panel is a European judge, usually Master of Wine or Master Sommelier, and they change each day. The year I started judging at DWWA, there were just enough Canadian wines to fill a day and a half’s judging, after which I moved on to panels tasting French wines for the rest of the week. But over the years, more and more Canadian wineries have entered the competition. This year, producers from BC and Ontario entered a grand total of 329 wines (including one sparkler from Nova Scotia). All the wines are tasted blind, of course, and the only information we are given about them is the region they are from, the sub-region if applicable, the vintage, style, principal grape and percentage (percentage of other grapes if it’s a blend), the alcohol level, whether the wine was aged in oak and if so for how long, and the retail price band (although I think the organisers were translating the Canadian dollar figure directly as British pounds!). As panelists, we make our notes directly on individual iPads; we rank each wine out of 100 points. After tasting each flight we discuss the wines and — by consensus — award each wine either a Gold medal, a Silver, a Bronze, a Commendation or no medal. If there is a significant disagreement among the panel over a particular wine, we call in one of the three uber-judges to arbitrate the final score. 66 @ QUENCH_MAG
Those wines to which we have given a Gold medal are tasted again by another panel the week following the competition and its members will either confirm our decision or knock the wine down to a Silver medal. At the time of writing, I am not privy to the final results (these will be published in the October issue of Decanter magazine) but I can tell you that — when the dust had settled and our panel all had black teeth — after four solid days of tasting over 80 wines a day, we awarded a total of 17 gold medals and 46 silver medals (nobody cares about bronze, unfortunately). And what, you may ask, do we do at the end of a strenuous day’s tasting (which is both physically and intellectually exhausting)? We repair to the nearest bar for a cleansing ale. What impressed me about the number of Canadian entries in the competition is the commitment our winemakers have to thrust themselves into the international market and the confidence they have in doing so. While they are not necessarily competing against wines from other countries in this competition — and only against themselves for the medals — they are participating on a world stage and their best efforts (the Gold medal winners) are put out, still clothed in their anonymous sealed bags, with “Canada” emblazoned on the label, for the other judges from around the world to taste at their leisure. No doubt, the number of Canadian entries into the Decanter World Wine Awards will grow each year and I hope, in the future, we’ll see more Nova Scotia representation as well as some wines from Quebec. × ILLUSTRATION: FRANCESCO GALLÉ, WWW.FRANCESCOGALLE.COM
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Crafting 100% Nova Scotia wines that reflect our maritime climate and coastal terroir.
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