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QUENCH MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER 2015 A MATTER OF AGE × 22 FINDING LEGS IN FRANCE’S MIDI BY GILLES BOIS GOLDEN TIMES × 24 BC IS STARTING TO REDEFINE ITSELF, STARTING WITH OLIVER’S GOLDEN MILE BENCH. BY TIM PAWSEY THE BIG O × 27 WHAT MAKES OREGON SUCH A WONDERFUL PLACE FOR GRAPES AND WINEMAKING? BY MICHAEL PINKUS POP QUIZ! × 30 WHICH VINEYARDS, VALUED AT FOUR BILLION EUROS, ARE THE MOST EXPENSIVE IN ALL OF ITALY? BY EVAN SAVIOLIDIS
24
AU NATURAL × 32 SO, WHAT EXACTLY IS A NATURAL WINE? BY RICK VANSICKLE CAST OF CHARACTERS × 34 MEET THE GRAPES, THAT ARE REDEFINING AN INDUSTRY. BY TOD STEWART BARLEY SOUP TO WARM THE SOUL × 37 WARM YOURSELF UP WITH SOME ELEVATED BEERS. BY SILVANA LAU HARD PRESSED × 40 AS THE LEAVES CHANGE, TASTE BUDS TURN TO APPLE CIDER. BY LISA HOEKSTRA WHERE THERE’S SMOKE × 44 OPEN YOUR EYES TO A WORLD OF SMOKE. BY DUNCAN HOLMES
37 DEPARTMENTS LOVIN’ MY OVEN × 48 WHAT WOULD YOU DO IF YOUR OVEN BROKE? BY NANCY JOHNSON
THE ROAD TO VERONA ... AND BEYOND × 64 GETTING ONE OF THE WORLD’S TOUGHEST CERTIFICATIONS. BY GURVINDER BHATIA
NOTED × 50 EXPERTLY-TASTED BUYING GUIDE FOR WINES, BEERS, CIDERS AND SPIRITS FROM AROUND THE WORLD.
FLY ON THE WALL × 66 THE POLITICS BEHIND BEAUJOLAIS’ NEW(ISH) SET OF REGULATIONS. BY TONY ASPLER
SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 3
@quench_mag Follow, like and connect with us online. WATCH “BEING CRAFTY,” OUR LATEST DOCUSERIES ON VIMEO. Take a look inside the
As someone whose days of drinking without a care are long past, I was thrilled to read that bartending has evolved to meet more discerning tastes [Life Behind Bars]. When I enjoy a dinner and drink, I want an experience. I want to discover new flavours and test my palate. I had always assumed that the boys (and girls) making my drinks had no clue about flavour profiles or alcohol combinations, nor any desire to learn more beyond the recipe they are given. Now I know that professional bartenders are out there and I look forward to patronizing their establishments. Charles Miller, Victoria, BC
fast-paced world of craft brewers and distillers, one of the fastest growing segments in the alcohol production world. Go to videos.quench.me for this and other documentaries.
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I OFTEN GET ASKED HOW MATURE THE CANADIAN WINE INDUSTRY IS. WE’VE BEEN AT IT FOR A WHILE BUT OBVIOUSLY NOT AS LONG AS SOME OLD WORLD — OR EVEN NEW WORLD — COUNTRIES. I guess it depends on your defini-
tion of mature. For winelovers, the term is ingrained in the way we look at the world. Maturity means longevity and a certain as-
4 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
Spritz [July/August 2015] opened my eyes to a whole new way to enjoy wine. I followed the tip to turn my off red wine into syrup instead of dumping it (not that wine really has time to go bad in my house) and invited my girlfriends over for cocktails — Girl in Trouble was a huge hit. Can’t wait to experiment more! Zoey Stevenson, email
Managed to secure half the wines listed on the Award Season list and tasted them over the course of the summer. My favourite was the Joiefarm Pinot Noir, but they were all good. Thank you for that! I look forward to more tasting lists. Hunter Joseph Newton, email
surance of quality. Even if you stayed with the slimmest of definitions, you can easily say that Canada has grown up quite a bit. It can be seen in the way we are starting to define our regions. Let’s give you a reference: turn to page 66 to read Tony Aspler’s After Taste column. I’ll wait for you here. Now that you are well versed in the Beaujolais situation and the intricacies of the Villages structure, you’ll see this isn’t easy. There isn’t a singular school of thought on how to define a wine-growing region. Especially one as storied as Beaujolais. So you’ll understand that here in Canada we still have a lot of work to do. On page 24, BC correspondent, Tim Pawsey, has laid out the very clear direction British Columbia is taking. The Golden Mile is one of the first steps in defining appellations across the province. It’s also happening in Nova Scotia with the Tidal Bay. We’ll start to see further segmentation of our wine regions as the years go by. But for now, put down this magazine and pick up a bottle of Canadian wine. You’ll see what I mean by maturity.
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CONTRIBUTORS Tim Pawsey (a.k.a. The Hired Belly) is a much travelled food and wine critic. He writes, tweets and shoots for the North Shore News and Vancouver Courier. He also writes monthly in WHERE Vancouver and contributes to Taste, Quench, Montecristo and others. In 2012, Tim was honoured to be inducted as a “Friend of the Industry” into the BCRFA Hall of Fame. Taste with him vicariously at www.hiredbelly.com and follow him at rebelmouse.com/hiredbelly.
Wine is a never ending story and an infinite source of discoveries, keeping Gilles Bois busy all year long, at home or abroad, as a wine judge or among friends. He likes to share his passion with the people who make wine and with readers across Canada.
Michael Pinkus’s love affair with wine began over 20 years ago and continues to this day. Michael is an award-winning journalist as well as a national and international wine judge. He is the head writer for OntarioWineReview.com and is President of the Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada.
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À LA CARTE Q SCHOOL × 10 7 USEFUL KITCHEN HACKS. GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON × 13 ALTHOUGH THEY ARE ONE OF THE UGLIEST FRUITS ON THE PLANET, DATES ARE WICKEDLY DELICIOUS. UMAMI BY KATIA JEAN PAUL × 14 TAMERA CLARK BRINGS AMERICAN-STYLE TREATS TO MONTREAL. NEXT STOP × 16 WITH HIDDEN DOORS AND OLD-FASHIONED DRINKS — MODERN SPEAKEASIES RECREATE THE CLANDESTINE BARS OF THE PROHIBITION ERA WITH BRIO. FEED BY TOM DE LARZAC × 18 ADD A LITTLE SMOKE TO YOUR CHICKEN. LAZY MIXOLOGIST BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO × 19 FEELING ADVENTUROUS? USE EGG WHITES IN YOUR NEXT COCKTAIL. BON VIVANT BY PETER ROCKWELL × 21 I’VE HEARD THAT ITALY GROWS OVER 1,000 DIFFERENT GRAPE VARIETIES. HOW CAN THAT BE?
SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 9
Q SCHOOL
Kitchen hacks
OUR KITCHEN CONTAINS A MULTITUDE OF TOOLS AND GADGETS, but it seems like we’re al-
ways missing that one gadget we need — or a tool just won’t get the job done. Before you run to the store, look around your house. You might find a common household item can do double duty. Here are seven unexpected kitchen tools to start your mind on its way out of the box.
#1 DENTAL FLOSS
Great for more than cleaning between the teeth — it can replace a knife when it comes to cutting soft foods, like goat cheese or cake. The floss slices through without gumming up the way a knife would — and you can toss it for easy cleaning.
#2 PANTS HANGER CLIPS
Multipurpose, use as a bag clip to keep snacks, flour, chocolate chips and other bagged items fresh; or as a recipe holder. Take the clips off the hanger for cupboard storage or countertop reading or leave them on the hanger and hook it onto a cupboard knob.
#3 HAMMER
Instead of investing in a meat tenderizer you’ll use once in a blue moon, grab your hammer, cover your meat with parchment or plastic wrap and smash away. 10 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
#4 FOLDER ORGANIZER
Available at most dollar stores, they’re designed to save space in the office, so why not in the kitchen too? Use to store cutting boards, pot lids, cookie sheets and other long, flat items.
#5 PLASTIC BOTTLE
If you need to separate egg whites and yolks, try using an empty plastic bottle. Crack your eggs into a bowl, put the open bottle mouth near the yolk, press down and watch as the yolk slides in, leaving the whites behind
#6 WINE BOTTLE
Have empty wine bottles lying around but no rolling pin for your cookies/pie crust/baking needs? Remove the label and wash the outside of the bottle (use dish soap and an abrasive cleaning pad), then roll out your dough with glee.
#7 STOCKINGS
The breathable fabric can prolong the life of produce like potatoes and onions. Put a potato in, tie the stocking; add another potato, tie the stocking; repeat until you have a lumpy looking leg; hang from the inside of your cupboard door. Every time you need a potato, just cut below the knot and enjoy. ×
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GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON
HOW ABOUT A DATE? STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING
MAKES 6 SERVINGS This is one of my all-time favourite desserts. A mash-up of British and Canadian recipes, sticky toffee pudding is topped with a rich caramel sauce that catapults it into the stratosphere of scrumptiousness! For best results, chop dates with floured scissors or use pre-chopped dates. The thick toffee-caramel sauce is the best part of the dessert. As my friend Rich says, “The sauce makes the dessert!” Amen, my brother.
1 3/4 2 1 1/2 2 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/3 1 3
cup chopped dates cups water tsp baking soda cups flour tsp baking powder tsp ground ginger tsp salt cup unsalted butter, softened cup sugar eggs Sticky Toffee Sauce Whipped cream, for garnish
1. Preheat oven to 375˚F. 2. Grease and flour 6 ramekins or custard cups. 3. In medium saucepan, simmer dates in water, uncovered, 5 min-
Although they are one of the ugliest fruits on the planet, dates are wickedly delicious. All brown and wrinkled and weirdly crushed, dates are actually wonderful — sticky, sweet and with a mysteriously rich caramel-meets-molasses vibe. I came to rely on dates when, fed up with the rancid trail mix sold at supermarkets, I started making my own. Dates have become my go-to fruit for the mix; mostly because of their uber-sweetness, but also because they’re nutritional heavyweights. High in calories? Umm ... yes, it’s true. One tiny, crinkly brunette fruit packs about 60 calories and is full of carbs and sugar, but it’s also loaded with dietary fibre, magnesium, potassium and antioxidants. Grown around the world in desert climates, dates are cultivated in Australia, Africa, the Middle East, California, Arizona and many other locations. The most common varieties found in North America are Medjool (the King) and Deglet Nour (the Queen). Medjool dates are larger, plumper, softer and sweeter, making them a good candidate for eating out of hand. Deglet Nour are smaller, chewier and drier, making them the date of choice for baking, although both varieties work well in most baking recipes.
× Search through our huge library of recipes on quench.me/recipes/
utes. Remove from heat and add baking soda. Let stand 30 minutes. 4. In large bowl, mix flour, baking powder, ginger and salt. 5. In a separate large bowl with electric mixer, beat together butter and sugar until fluffy. Add eggs, one at a time, beating after each addition until combined. Add flour mixture a little at a time, beating after each addition, until combined. Gently fold in date mixture. 6. Spoon batter into greased ramekins. Set 3 ramekins into one of two 9 x 13 pans. Add hot water to each pan to reach halfway up sides of ramekins. 7. Bake 25 to 35 minutes or until toothpick inserted in centre of one ramekin comes out clean. Cool 10 minutes, then unmould from ramekins. Serve warm with Sticky Toffee Sauce and whipped cream. To re-warm ramekins, microwave for 30 seconds each.
THE MAKE-IT-OR-BREAK-IT STICKY TOFFEE SAUCE: 3/4 1 1/2 1 1/2
cup plus 2 tbsp unsalted butter cups brown sugar cup heavy whipping cream tsp vanilla
In saucepan, melt butter. Add brown sugar. Bring to boil, stirring occasionally. Stir in cream and vanilla. Bring to boil, lower heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 5 minutes. Serve warm over pudding. Top with whipped cream. × JULY/AUGUST SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 13
UMAMI BY KATIA JEAN PAUL
Sweet as pie AMONG THE REQUISITE PIT STOPS TO GAS STATION RESTROOMS AND ROADSIDE EATERIES ALONG THE SCENIC ROUTE, nestled within the vast
expanse of lush greenery, the country pie stand harkens back to an era of Southern hospitality, friendly neighbourhood bakers and homemade pies. Vancouver-born pastry chef Tamera Clark likes her pies fresh out of the oven too. After working inside various kitchens in Europe and the Caribbean, since 2013 she has been busy whipping up classic, American-style treats at Rustique Pie Kitchen, Montreal’s “country pie stand in the city.” “I grew up with a family of home cooks, so we always had great meals,” says Clark, who is also co-owner — along with Ryan Bloom and Jacqueline Berman — of the homey specialty bakery-cum-café located in Saint-Henri. “I grew up with chocolate soufflé for dessert, crème caramel, those kinds of things that I thought were normal but aren’t that normal!” Clark’s career in food and hospitality began at age 14 with a job at a pizza shop. In 2003, she left Vancouver to travel the globe, residing in California, Whistler and the Cayman Islands among other destinations, and working as a server, bartender and manager in various restaurants and catering houses. In Australia, she found her calling. “I worked in a catering company where, in order to be a server at night, you had to work in the kitchen during the day,” explains Clark. “I was learning new recipes and it sparked my love for being in the kitchen.” However, it would be at EJ Catering in Cardiff, South Wales, that she would find her niche: desserts. Clark trained at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts in Vancouver and upon completion of a six-month program, became head pastry chef and general manager at Black Trumpet, a gourmet delicatessen in the Cayman Islands. “I got the feeling I wanted my own place at this point,” recalls Clark. While at Black Trumpet, Clark met Bloom, and — sold on his idea of bringing classic, American-style treats to La Belle Province — moved to Montreal and, along with Bloom’s sister-in-law, Berman, opened Rustique Pie Kitchen. “Montreal is full of incredible classic French desserts,” says Clark. “Having childhood desserts is something that people really grab on to as well. It’s nice to have both options.” Apple, cherry, blueberry and lemon meringue, the classic pies of our youth have a permanent spot on Rustique’s seasonal14 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
ly changing menu. But with 12 to 14 different pies on offer daily alongside other decadent handcrafted desserts, Clark has ample room to experiment. And experiment she does, whipping up “rustique-style” takes on classic British desserts like Eton mess and Banoffee pie, among other culinary sleights of hand. “For my Caribbean desserts, I use a lot of coconut, lime and pineapple,” says Clark. “I take flavour and develop desserts from that.” So what’s in a pie? “The perfect combination of a flaky crust, a right ratio of filling and some sort of finishing topping,” she opines. “Right now, we have a rhubarb crumble, so we have that flaky crust, tenny filling and crumble-streusel topping. It’s always nice to have those three elements. And butter of course!” As of this writing, Clark plans to hang up her Rustique apron and move back to Vancouver. “I’ve been traveling for so long, I need to set my roots,” she says. But with plans of setting up her own pastry shop there by next spring, and with two of her recipes featured in the new book Montreal Cooks: A Tasting Menu From the City’s Leading Chefs by Jonathan Cheung and Tays Spencer (2015, Figure 1 Press), it’s likely not the last we’ll hear of her, and her lemon meringue pie. “It’s something I brought here [at Rustique]. It’s something I grew up with,” says Clark. “Lemon meringue pie will always be my thing.” ×
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Old-school joints
Hidden doors, secret passwords and old-fashioned drinks — modern speakeasies recreate the clandestine bars of the Prohibition era with brio, right down to the thick veil of secrecy. EN CACHETTE
www.encachette.ca From outside, it would appear this Montreal speakeasy buried at basement level along Saint-Denis Street likes to play coy. But once inside, it’s clear that this throwback of an establishment is one memorable spot. Dim lighting, brick walls and plush seating take it back, way back, while gravlax-style salmon tartare, Mademoiselle Chanel (Gaston de Lagrange cognac, Bailey’s, crème de cacao and milk) and smooth contemporary R’n’B gives this spot a modern twist.
LOPAN
www.dailoto.com Asian-inspired cocktails and dim sum: Lopan is where Torontonians in the know come to enjoy Eastern-flavoured libations in a quaint, sophisticated atmosphere. Located on the second floor of Little Italy’s celebrated DaiLo restaurant, this speakeasy’s menu is as rich and lavish as the gilded markings on the walls. Case in point — Asian confit duck wings and truffle fried rice, as well as drinks that beckon like a perfectly tart Lemongrass Gimlet and Wo Shing Wo, which melds Pike Creek rye, dry vermouth, lemon and cherry-anise syrup. 16 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
NOBLE
www.themiddlespoon.ca Hidden inside luxe Halifax desserterie and bar The Middle Spoon, this erstwhile boiler room turned clandestine boîte — complete with velvet curtains, tufted-back chairs and exposed ceilings — has all the makings of a classic 1920s-style speakeasy. Still, award-winning mixologist Jenner Cormier’s cocktail menu mixes the old with the new — think Manhattan on one side and the class favourite, Adam’s Apple, which melds aged amber rum, ginger wine, aperol, sweet vermouth and orange bitters to delectable effect, on the other. Entry into this exclusive bar requires a password, sent out every Thursday by mailing list, if you can manage to get on it. (Hint: examine The Middle Spoon’s website!)
THE STAFF ROOF
www.union613.ca Ottawa’s Union 613 serves up proudly Canadian Southern cuisine out of an eccentric resto pub on Somerset Street West. And while unsuspecting patrons feast on marinated mackerel and grilled bavette upstairs, an intimate, rustic-style speakeasy, accessible through a door masquerading as a bookcase, calls below. Made entirely of reclaimed wood, this old-timey shack serves intricate cocktails and international whiskeys including selections from Japan, South Africa and the Netherlands. Care for a Cypress Swill (rosemary-infused Tromba tequila, Grand Marnier, pineapple juice, lime juice, gomme syrup, grapefruit bitters and chili oil)? You’ll have to unearth the secret bookcase (and pull the right book) first. ×
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In North West Greece, the Appellations of Florina (P.G.I. Florina) and Amyndeon (P.D.O. Amyndeon) are located in a region with ideal conditions for the production of high quality wines.
The viticulture zone of Amyndeon, sub region to that of Florina, probably the most promising in Greece, covers an area of more than 700ha, in a mountain plateau (580 – 700m) with semi continental climate, alluvium, sandy, sandy clay soils of excellent drainage, dictated by three big mountain volumes and two lakes. This is the smallest, coldest, driest and most north Appellation in Greece. An ecosystem with ideal
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P.D.O. (Protected Designation of Origin) Amyndeon wines are 100% Xinomavro (“ksee-NOH-mahvroh”), dry wines and they range from still to sparkling and from white (Blanc de Noir) to rose (Saignée) and big reds with unique tasting features and long ageing capacity.
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P.G.I. (Protected Geographical Indication) Florina wines range in the same types and colors of wines, with the addition of few late harvest and a wide range of indigenous and international varieties, from Malagouzia, Roditis, Assyrtiko, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürztraminer in the whites, to Mavropahne, Syrah, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tannat, Montepulciano and Negro Amaro in the reds. The region is proudly producing with consistency wines that are considered among Greece’s top quality wines with high international reputation.
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ADD A LITTLE SMOKE
AFTER A SUMMER OF GRILLING ON THE BARBECUE, EVEN THE BEST STEAKS BEGIN TO GET BORING. As in all
things, repetition can create ennui. If this sounds like you, then it is time to stop grilling and time to start smoking. It is important to know the difference between the two. Grilling involves fast cooking, often searing foods over high heats and cooking over direct heat. Smoking is cooking foods on a low heat and for long periods of time, often with indirect heat (see page 44 for more recipes). People often use the phrase “Low and Slow” to talk about real barbecue. While I enjoy the barbecue and love the flavour of a grilled steak (rib-eye all the way), a nicely smoked piece of meat is to die for. The way that smoke penetrates and creates a beautiful ring (barque) is something that is truly amazing. If you have never had true barbecue, then your culinary dining experience is incomplete. I recommend finding a place with a pit master and a smoker that get lots of work. The more it gets used, the better the flavour usually is. While a smoker would be ideal and typically yields the best results, it is not absolutely necessary in order for you to get true barbecue flavour at home. There are two key items for best results: a) smoke — you can make this with a smoker box (cast iron) or foil pouches; and b) a dry rub (see recipe). A true barbecue rub takes a long time to perfect, years to master and is usually highly guarded, but it is well worth experimenting to find the one that works best for you. Don’t be disappointed that barbecue is more than grilling; see it as an opportunity to learn a new way of cooking. It may take longer, it may take patience, but it will be well worth it with the first bite of true backyard barbecue.
18 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
SMOKED BARBECUE CHICKEN
1 whole chicken (split in half) 1/4 cup barbecue dry rub (2 tbsp salt, 2 tbsp pepper, 3 tbsp chili powder, 1 tbsp each brown sugar, cumin, coriander, smoked paprika, mustard powder) 3 cups wood chips (soaked for at least one hour) Tin foil (3 large pieces) 1. Mix all rub ingredients well. Season all sides of chicken evenly. Let chicken rest for 1 hour (leave at room temperature; if placed in fridge, remove 30 min prior to cooking). 2. Remove grate from one side of barbecue and turn on burner (same side) to low. Preheat to 250˚F. 3. Place 1/3 of wood chips into each piece of foil. Wrap and curl edge to create individual pouches. Use a fork and pierce each side 5 to 6 times. 4. Place chicken on top rack (skin-side up), on opposite side of barbecue to heat source. Place 1 wood chip pouch directly on burner (should begin to smoke within a couple of minutes). Change pouch every 45 min. Flip chicken over after 1 1/2 hours. 5. Cook chicken for 2 1/2 hours, or until internal temperature reaches 165°F. MATCH: Serve with a bright Sauv Blanc from the New World and enjoy. ×
LAZY MIXOLOGIST BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO
Get cracking Used to be that drinking raw eggs was the province of tough guys, like Rocky Balboa or Hulk Hogan, trying to bulk up in preparation for a big match. The rest of us regular folk were generally content to just scramble ‘em. But with the revival of drinks from days gone by, eggs have been making a comeback in craft cocktail joints, where bartenders are taking a cue from old cocktail recipes that frequently called for eggs. Some of these recipes demand carefully separated egg whites, but others actually make use of whole eggs, yolks and all. If this sounds odd, consider eggnog, a delicious and hearty drink that, every time the weather starts to take a turn for the worse, many of us quaff back with no thought whatsoever as to ingredients. Even in the summer months and/or tropical climes, if you’ve ever had a proper Peruvian Pisco Sour or a New Orleans-style Ramos Gin Fizz, you were almost certainly drinking a bit of egg white, given it’s a traditional ingredient in both. Why eggs? “It’s mostly about the texture,” explains Mélanie Aumais, bar manager at Maison Sociale in Montreal, who uses egg whites in a few of her signature cocktails. “It doesn’t really taste like much, so it doesn’t add much in the way of flavour but, if you use it properly, it can add an amazing amount of foam to a drink.” In addition to the foam, which makes for a lovely visual impact, the increased viscosity of the drink can help round out the sharp edges and tame twangy tartand-sour flavours, bringing all the disparate accents together. A culinary comparison might be making a roux for a sauce or a soup. As an added bonus, some bartenders find that cracking an egg behind the bar can spark a dialogue with curious patrons, something that cocktail bartenders are keenly trying to do as much as possible in beer- and wine-centric Montreal. “A lot of people stop me when I go to add an egg white and want to know what I’m doing, and why,” says Aumais. “I’ll explain it and then when people try it, they think the whole technique is really neat.” When using egg whites, Aumais shakes a cocktail such as her Cherry Gin Sour twice: once with ice, then a second time without. The idea is to get as much air as possible into the drink — a technique called the “reverse dry shake.” “If you shake with ice the second time around, the foam falls faster,” explains Aumais. “If you do shake it ‘dry’ the second time, the foam will stay on top of the drink.”
× Visit quench.me/search-mixed/ for more drink recipes
CHERRY GIN SOUR 1 1/2 oz Hendrick’s gin 3/4 oz Heering cherry liqueur 1 oz fresh lime juice 1 egg white 2 sprigs of rosemary Reserving 1 rosemary sprig for garnish, shake all the other ingredients with ice rigorously for 60 seconds. Remove ice and “dry” shake ingredients — again for another full minute. Strain into chilled glass, discarding the bruised rosemary. Garnish with a fresh sprig. ×
SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 19
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20 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
BON VIVANT BY PETER ROCKWELL
ILLUSTRATION: MATT DALEY/SHINYPLIERS.COM
I’ve heard that Italy grows over 1,000 different grape varieties. How can that be? While 1,000 may be pushing it (see page 64), Italy can lay claim to an astonishingly wide variety of varietals with 350 “officially” recognized by the governmental body that recognizes that sort of thing. There are hundreds of unofficial berries being grown across Italy’s 20 wine-producing regions but really, only a few are able to claim any kind of international superstar status. Why so many? Well, while we here in Canada see the eatand-drink local movement as a North American phenomenon, the Europeans have been promoting the philosophy (typically out of necessity) for centuries. Unless they were up for a long, long ride to anywhere else, oldschool Italians stuck close to home, developing pride and admiration for the liquids and solids being made in their own backyards. Even today, you’d be hard pressed to find a bottle of Chianti in Italy anywhere outside of Tuscany, unless you went to a fine wine shop in a major metropolis. So here’s where things get interesting when it comes to the Italian grape count. While non-Tuscans may snub that Chianti outside its home region, that doesn’t mean its primary grape (Sangiovese) gets tarred with the same brush-off. Emilia-Romagna, Tuscany’s next-door neighbour, grows its own version of Sangiovese called Sangiovese di Romagna. But it doesn’t end there. Dozens of clones have been created from both versions. And that’s just Sangiovese. If all 350 of its grapes gave birth to multiple imitators and emulators, it’s totally plausible that Italy can stake claim to over 1,000 different varietals. Do they all produce good juice? Now that’s a good question …
× Ask your questions at bonvivant@quench.me
Should I believe what’s written on a wine bottle’s back label?
There’s no reason to doubt the blurb on the back of the bottle, as long as you wrap your palate around the fact that we’re talking about some limited real-estate where a lot has to be said in a few words and marketing is its motivation. In Canada, space becomes even more of a premium thanks to our rules and regulations about what has to be stamped on each panel before any poetic glory statements can make an appearance. I’m talking all the stuff that you, the consumer, need to have access to so that you don’t buy booze by accident. (Like standing in a liquor store isn’t enough of a hint at what’s on the shelves.) Size, country of origin, alcohol content, product style, etc. has to be on the label that you and I would consider the front part of the bottle. While the debate rages on which side that is, all the info has to be in both French and English to boot. Once all the legal blah-blah is taken care of, the winery’s marketing team can fill the remaining space with as much flowery prose or deep-dive detail that they feel will sell their juice to the unwashed masses. Now, some winemakers love to put their two cents worth on their back labels, giving John Irving a run for his money when it comes to story structure and changing up their descriptors every vintage. On the other hand, the vast majority of producers keep to the same finely manicured spiel no matter how good, bad or indifferent the harvest was. In the end, it comes down to caveat emptor on your part. You’re not going to find any lies on the back of a wine bottle. It’s just that much of what you’ll read is a generic sales pitch formulated in a boardroom rather than the vineyard. × SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 21
Vincent and Isabelle Goumard from Mas Cal Demoura
Jean marc, Xavier and Pierre Ravaille from Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup
Pech Redon’s Christophe Bousquet
A MATTER OF AGE by Gilles Bois
FRANCE’S MIDI IS WELL KNOWN AS A GREAT SOURCE FOR RED WINES.
The Côteaux du Languedoc AOC encompasses a vast territory where most of the villages make age-worthy wines. To celebrate its 30th anniversary, the AOC (which was renamed “Languedoc” in 2007) held a tasting of a selection of old bottles at Mas de Saporta near Montpellier, during the annual Millésime en Languedoc event. The price of these wines range from $20 to $50 upon release. Wines at these price levels are usually drunk within a few years. This tasting was proof that some of them can last and be enjoyed much longer — especially if you appreciate the taste of a mature bottle. The wines were poured straight from the bottle, without decanting. Sadly, one bottle was corked, the 2002 Noël Calmes from Cave de Saint-Saturnin. 22 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
MAS JULLIEN 1996, TERRASSES DU LARZAC
CHÂTEAU L’ENGARRAN QUETTON 1998, SAINT-GEORGES-D’ORQUES
At close to 20 years of age, the wine shows an expected garnet colour. The nose is equally evolved with notes of dried fine herbs and plums. A tertiary animal scent shows up in the glass after a while. The mouthfeel is caressing, the tannins are melted; balance is still excellent, from the mid-palate all the way through the lovely finale.
Brick-red colour. Fresh nose of tea leaves, mushrooms and wet earth. Supple, tender texture, only medium bodied with melted tannins and a seductive finish.
CAVE DE SAINT-SATURNIN SEIGNEUR DES 2 VIERGES 1998, SAINT-SATURNIN The colour is dark, but has a brick-brown rim. The nose is complex, full of tertiary, empyreumatic aromas. The texture is still slightly grainy, but very finely so, with largely melted tannins. Finish is long and delicate.
CHÂTEAU PECH-REDON L’ÉPERVIER 1998, LA CLAPE Garnet colour. Still a good deal of freshness on the nose with a delicate bouquet of wet earth and animal scents. Medium bodied at most, it is past its prime and declining but still enjoyable.
CLOS MARIE SIMON 1998, PIC SAINT LOUP Garnet colour. The nose is predominantly earthy with declining fruit. The tannins have taken over in the slightly astringent mouthfeel. Unrewarding and near the end of its life.
DOMAINE DE PEYRE-ROSE CLOS DES CISTES 1998 Noticeably younger than other wines of the same vintage. Aromas of blackberries are still present on the nose, along with earth and liquorice. Still firm on the palate, it finishes on a tannic note. Impressive longevity.
DOMAINE DE LA PROSE LES EMBRUNS 2002, SAINTGEORGES-D’ORQUES Ruby garnet colour. The nose retains a lot of fresh fruity notes but alcohol is perceptible. Medium bodied and with a good deal of dry extract but the finish is a little warm.
MAS JULLIEN 2000, TERRASSES DU LARZAC
CHÂTEAU PECH REDON LA CENTAURÉE 2002, LA CLAPE
The only wine from the 2000 vintage is showing extremely well. Colour still has a ruby tint; the nose is mostly fruity and shows some reduction (none of the wines were decanted prior to pouring). Excellent presence in the mouth, robust tannins and still juicy. Impressive.
Pleasant nose of candied fruits but not perfectly clean, possibly slightly corked?
MAS BRUGUIÈRE LA GRENADIÈRE 2001, PIC SAINT LOUP Brick red colour. Nice fresh nose of dead leaves and lots of fine herbs notes with a menthol-like touch. Very expressive on the palate, with an “open” structure and a great length to match. A joy to drink.
CLOS MARIE OLIVETTE 2001, PIC SAINT LOUP A disappointment. The nose appears to be tired and lacking with only dried plum notes. Equally weak in the mouth, the tannic backbone is all that is left. This wine is well past its prime.
ERMITAGE DU PIC SAINT LOUP GUILHEM GAUCELM 2001, PIC SAINT LOUP Garnet tint. Tertiary nose of tea leaves plus a fresh note of menthol. Melted mouthfeel, still intensely flavoured even if oxidative notes appear. Very pleasant to drink but entering its declining phase.
DOMAINE D’AUPILHAC LES COCALIÈRES 2001, MONTPEYROUX Colour is still on the ruby side. The nose is complex, generously fruity and oak notes are still clearly perceptible. This wine is surprisingly young and delicious to drink, full of fruity extract and well balanced.
PRIEURÉ SAINT JEAN DE BÉBIAN 2001, PÉZENAS Dark colour with a brownish rim. The nose is evolving, at this stage it is dominated by meaty notes of overripe blackberries. Only medium to full bodied, but it fills the mouth well. Very satisfying.
CASTELBARRY ROCQUEFEUIL GRANDE CUVÉE 2003, MONTPEYROUX Seductive nose of fine herbs, very fresh but not with the usual menthol-like note. Equally fresh in the mouth and highly drinkable, nicely balanced. Very enjoyable.
CHÂTEAU L’ENGARRAN 2003, GRÈS DE MONTPELLIER Astonishing freshness on the nose, especially from the extremely hot 2003 vintage. Pleasant to drink, but the vintage has left its imprint: the alcohol level seems a little high and is perceptible in the finish.
DOMAINE DE LA PROSE LES EMBRUNS 2003, SAINT-GEORGESD’ORQUES Light garnet colour. All components of the bouquet are intermingled in the beautiful, complex, evolved nose. Melted tannins glide on the palate; the taste is fresh and very pleasant. At its peak. Hard to believe this is from 2003.
MAS BRUGUIÈRE LA GRENADIÈRE 2004, PIC SAINT LOUP Garnet. Fresh and intense nose of tea leaves and decaying fruit. Medium bodied and softly textured, this is a beautiful wine, still at its peak.
MAS CAL DEMOURA COMBARIOLLES 2006, TERRASSES DU LARZAC Dark ruby. Blackberries and liquorice over oak notes. Round and full bodied, fleshy mouthfeel, well balanced. Finish is firm and not without power. Still far from its peak.
PRIEURÉ SAINT JEAN DE BÉBIAN 2004, PÉZENAS Restrained nose of blackberries. Still energetic on the palate, the fine, tight tannins provide a full body mouthfeel.
CASTELBARRY ROCQUEFEUIL “GRANDE CUVÉE” 2005, MONTPEYROUX The wine is more evolved than the 2004 tasted just before. Nose is tertiary with empyreumatic notes. Medium bodied and well balanced. Fully mature.
ERMITAGE DU PIC SAINT LOUP SAINTE AGNÈS 2005, PIC SAINT LOUP Bright ruby. Young nose of red and black fruits. Compact mouthfeel, a little acidic with a nice fresh fruity taste. Intense and slightly warm finish. Still maturing.
MONTCALMES 2005, TERRASSES DU LARZAC Beautiful nose of red and black berries. Oak is perceptible but well integrated. Pleasant sweet fruit taste and a nice long finish lifted by acidity.
MAS CAL DEMOURA COMBARIOLLES 2005, TERRASSES DU LARZAC Small black fruits on the nose. Supple and chunky mouthfeel, harmonious balance.
DOMAINE D’AUPILHAC LA BODA 2005, MONTPEYROUX Beautiful nose of blackberries, elegant oak notes. Full bodied and lots of fruity extract to wrap the firm tannins. Will evolve.
DOMAINE DE PEYRE ROSE SYRAH LÉONE 2005 Fresh nose, complex with some tertiary notes. Medium bodied, there is still fruit on the palate but it is declining, the sharp tannins pierce through.
DOMAINE ALAIN CHABANON LA BOISSIÈRE 2006, MONTPEYROUX Pale ruby tint. Small red fruits and oak notes. Nice fresh palate, fine tannins in the elegant mouthfeel but the finish is a little rough yet intense. Needs more time.
DOMAINE ALAIN CHABANON L’ESPRIT DE FONTCAUDE 2004, MONTPEYROUX
DOMAINE LES AURELLES SOLEN 2006, PÉZENAS
Younger than the other 2004s, its texture is chewier and thicker. A beautiful glass of mature wine.
Pleasant nose of red fruits. Tight and even a little astringent in the mouth, with a lengthy finish. Wait for its peak. × SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 23
GOLDEN TIMES by Tim Pawsey
This spring witnessed a pivotal moment in the relatively brief history of British Columbia’s modern wine industry when, on March 30th, 2015, Oliver’s Golden Mile Bench was formally recognized as the province’s first sub-appellation. While Oliver has long proclaimed its prowess as one of the province’s more definable and specific grape-growing regions (and, indeed, likes to boast that it’s “The Grape Capital of Canada”), this sub-appellation encompasses the bench itself. Here, many of the Okanagan’s pioneering vineyards — such as Gehringer Brothers, Tinhorn Creek, Inniskillin Okanagan (formerly Okanagan Vineyards) and present-day Hester Creek (originally Divino) — were established. The other, equally noteworthy members are: CC Jentsch, Road 13, CheckMate Artisanal Winery, Rustico, Culmina, Fairview Cellars and Willow Hill Vineyards. The process to formal approval (signed off in the BC Attorney General’s office) was lengthy, taking about five years and not without some bumps in the road. Nor is everyone happy, including a few people who wound up on the “wrong” side of the boundary. However, the applicant wineries were careful to do their homework in completing an in-depth scientific analysis that proved the wines produced on the Golden Mile Bench are distinct, as required by the BC Wine Authority. At the moment, BC is divided into five Designated Viticultural Areas (DVAs). As the largest, the Okanagan Valley contains a diverse range of varying sites, soils and climatic conditions. In fact, harvest times alone can differ by as much as a month from north to south in the valley. A sub-appellation — or more correctly a Sub-Designated Viticultural Area — can be approved only once a number of conditions have been met. Overall, these must “consistently demonstrate distinctive characteristics related to shared soil, topography and climate, enhanced by the adoption of specific production practices.” Several experts contributed to the Golden Mile Bench study, including long-time Summerland Pacific Agri-Food Research Centre (PARC) viticultural scientist Dr Pat Bowen and Master of Wine Rhys Pender, among others. Interestingly enough, the origin of the name “Golden Mile” actually had nothing to do with grapes. It dates from a time when Oliver enjoyed fame as “The Cantaloupe capital of Canada,” when the northern reaches of the Sonoran desert had only become viable for agriculture thanks to a newly introduced irrigation system that channelled water from nearby Vasseaux Lake to the US border. 24 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
(The system was built in part to provide work for soldiers returning from World War I, but its primary intention was to bring water to potentially thousands of acres, which would be farmed by the new settlers. Much of the irrigation canal built originally under the auspices of the South Okanagan Lands Project remains in service today and is vital to the wineries and farms of the south valley.) In recent years the term Golden Mile was unofficially adopted to publicize all of the wineries on the west side stretch of the valley on Oliver’s southern limits. However, the “Bench” designation will apply only to fruit grown on the bench itself above the valley floor. The northern boundary (based on soil sampling) runs right through Bill Eggert’s Fairview Estate. Interestingly, while much of the Triggs Family’s Culmina Estate is included, the ambitiously constructed, 595-metre elevation Margaret’s Bench (likely the highest vineyard in the south Okanagan) is not considered part of the Golden Mile Bench. Even though the core group drove the application, it’s worth noting that these wineries do not enjoy sole use of the term. Any winery that buys grapes from within the sub-DVA may use them to make a Golden Mile Bench designated wine and use the term on the front label. According to the regulations currently in effect (and unchanged in 25 years), the Okanagan Valley DVA is described very broadly as “the land within the watershed of the Okanagan water basin.” Important to note, BC’s DVAs were defined when there really was little happening outside of the Okanagan Valley — and when only about a 10th of the land was under vine compared to today. CONSIDERING THE GROWTH IN THE INDUSTRY, and the occurrence now of so many unofficial sub-regions within the 250 km long valley, some suggest that such a broad term as “Okanagan Valley” is no longer sufficiently specific. Also, not too far down the road — sooner rather than later — is the need to confer DVA status on emerging regions, such as The Shuswap, Kamloops and Lillooet. Their wine activity may be still small but it promises to grow. And they’re not designated within any specific DVA status. While Ontario moved several years ago to adopt a comprehensive system of soil based sub-appellations throughout all of its DVAs, primarily guided by major winery and other commercial interests, BC has so far chosen to ignore the issue.
“THE QUALITY OF WINE PRODUCED IN BC HAS IMPROVED EXPONENTIALLY SINCE THE BC VQA APPELLATION WAS PUT IN PLACE 25 YEARS AGO. NOW, REVIEWING THAT SYSTEM AND UPDATING IT WILL HELP SET US UP FOR EVEN GREATER QUALITY, INTERNATIONAL RECOGNITION AND SUCCESS FOR THE NEXT 25 YEARS AND BEYOND … ” SUMMERHILL PYRAMID WINERY’S EZRA CIPES
Those unofficial sub-regions that are in play are based on wine tourism and brand designations that, in most cases, offer little indication of the grapes’ actual origin. Although there are no other formal applications known to be currently in process, it’s possible that a half dozen or more could eventually be forthcoming from the Okanagan Valley alone. These might include areas generally described as: Naramata Bench; Skaha Bluffs; Westbank Bench; Kelowna Mission District; East Kelowna Bench; Black Sage Bench and Okanagan Falls; and there are likely a few more, both in the valley and beyond. Not by chance, the announcement of the province’s first sub-appellation coincided with the creation of the BC Wine Appellation Task Group, which is examining a number of ways to improve the appellation system for wine produced from 100 percent BC grapes. The task group was initiated by the BC Wine Institute board of directors, in partnership with the Ministry of Agriculture and the BC Wine Authority. Among its goals, the group will review the current system of appellations and the BC Vintners Quality Alliance program. Group chair Ezra Cipes (Summerhill Pyramid Winery) said the timing makes sense: “The quality of wine produced in BC has improved exponentially since the BC VQA appellation was put in place 25 years ago. Now, reviewing that system and updating it will help set us up for even greater quality, international recognition and success for the next 25 years and beyond … ” The group’s timeframe is tight, as the government wants its recommendations to be made public by the fall. An initial meeting found consensus on many core issues, but the group also
invited others on board in an effort to forge a broader coalition between sometimes differing factions. The approach, says Task Group Executive Director Mike Klassen, is to consult with industry and key people, through town hall style meetings and other events. Klassen has already hit the road, visiting Vancouver Island’s Cowichan Valley, as well as Lake Country and West Kelowna, Summerland, Similkameen, Fraser Valley, Okanagan Falls and Naramata. “We’re really covering the ground that we need to,” he says. Klassen says, beyond producers, the group will also talk to “those who sell wine so we can understand what consumers are looking for as well.” He says the discussions usually encompass four general topics: VQA and the need or not for tasting panels; appellations and sub-appellations; mandatory registration of origin (which has broad support); and the entire audit process. “Audits for wine producers have become a real flashpoint, says Klassen. “Everyone welcomes the need to audit that the wine is produced with 100 percent BC grapes. But the sheer number of audits (including those monthly for now-redundant excise tax) consume valuable hours that take away from the business at hand: producing wine.” Klassen says the debate around VQA is “broad and diverse” — but most people still sense there is a value. “There’s no strong desire for any tiered quality measurement for wine,” says Klassen, “But there is broad recognition that health-safety is an important factor. Also, there is a discussion as to whether it’s time to move on from VQA tasting panels, as to whether they still serve a useful purpose.” SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 25
CULMINA HYPOTHESIS 2012 ($48) One of the most balanced Bordeaux blends to come out of the south valley, with Merlot (57%), Cabernet Sauvignon (24%) and Cabernet Franc (19%) in perfect harmony. From a spectacular vintage, this wine aged in mainly new French oak sports the vineyard’s trademark acidity with lifted red and black fruit on top, followed by a plush and plummy palate of mulberry and black pepper notes.
HESTER CREEK CABERNET FRANC RESERVE 2012 ($29) The original and first planting of Cab Franc in BC (by pioneering Joe Busnardo) dates from the late 1960s. A combination of old and newer vines yields aromas of deep red fruit and vanilla before a layered palate. Bing cherry and mulberry, wrapped in juicy acidity with good structure, approachable tannins and a lengthy close. Match with duck magret or venison.
FAIRVIEW CELLARS TWO HOOTS 2012 ($25) Bill Eggert likes to describe his classic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc as his value wine for “daily consumption.” Grown on the northern limits of the designated sub-app, the Cab Sauv delivers structure, with plushness from the Merlot. Named in honour of the great horned owls that nest on the property, it sports lifted red berry and cassis notes followed by a medium-bodied palate of cherry and cassis, wrapped in approachable tannins with a good, persistent finish.
GEHRINGER AUXERROIS 2013 ($14) Much of the Gehringer Brothers vineyard (which is just about in the centre of the bench area) harks back to the early 1980s, when trial plantings from Geisenheim’s Becker Project proved that many Germanic aromatics were well suited to several sites in the Okanagan. A classic expression of the winery’s popular off-dry style, this easy drinking white shows orchard and tropical notes on top, followed by a lighter palate of apple and citrus with a hint of pineapple. Think milder seafood plates such as shrimp or scallop.
INNISKILLIN DARK HORSE VINEYARD MERITAGE 2012 ($24) Long time Inniskillin winemaker Sandor Mayor, who recently returned to his native Hungary, was another driving force behind much of the ground-breaking early vinifera plantings on the Golden Mile Bench, including one of the first blocks of Cabernet Sauvignon on this very warm site. From one of the best vintages in many years comes this Merlot dominant/Cab Sauv/Cab Franc blend, with up front dark notes such as cassis, followed by a supple palate of blue and black fruits wrapped in easy, well-integrated tannins.
TINHORN CREEK 2012 PINOT NOIR ($20) From another of the bench’s pioneering producers, also one of relatively few remaining blocks of Pinot Noir after others were pulled out in the now much warmer South Okanagan. Red and black fruit on the nose with an herbal hint, followed by a quite full-bodied palate of spice and slightly savoury notes underpinned by juicy acidity but balanced with plushness and finesse, before a lengthy finish. 26 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
Hester winemaker Rob Summers
As for the debate on sub-appellations, whatever the outcome, it needs to be founded on good science, says the group, which will work closely with Pacific Agri-Food Research Centre (PARC). The task group itself will not be identifying potential other sub-appellations but will be examining how such demarcations might be decided or applied. Says Klassen: “There is a good case to be made for a region and village system for wine origin. Letting consumers know that the wine came from, say, Summerland or Oliver could be useful.” As far as further splitting the Okanagan into designated areas, “a few suggest there’s a need to ‘go slow.’ Some producers say only now do people understand that there’s real value in the Okanagan Valley brand.” However, others say it’s important to identify the likes of Golden Mile Bench, “to let people know that there are places distinct within the Okanagan Valley.” The group says there are lessons to be learned from the Golden Mile Bench process, in that some things worked and others didn’t. It may have taken a long time but in the end it was successful, says Klassen, “So we need to learn from that.” The task force will survey industry and other stakeholders to get data in order to determine opinion across the board on these issues. Once the survey results are in, the group will develop a set of recommendations and a final report will be issued publicly by the end of September for government consideration. Coming on the heels of BC liquor licensing reforms that have provoked dissatisfaction within some sectors of the industry, the government has plenty riding on the BC Wine Appellation Task Group’s success. Whatever the outcome, however, one thing’s certain: Golden Mile Bench signals an auspicious beginning of a far more detailed and transparent system of origin for the Okanagan and beyond. At time of publication there are few, if any, wines released that are specifically labelled Golden Mile Bench, since approval came too late for member wineries’ spring releases. However, the wines to your left are all bench grown (not having any other fruit declared in their origin) and may, in time, be labelled as such. ×
the big o by Michael Pinkus
OREGON … FOR US IN THE EASTERN PART OF CANADA, IT’S A LAND OF MYTH AND MYSTERY — KIND OF LIKE THE ORIENT WAS FOR OUR ANCESTORS. In western Canada, it’s a hop,
skip and jump over Washington and helps to encompass what is known as the Pacific Northwest wine region, which includes both Washington and British Columbia. Here in the east, we hear rumours of the great wines being made there in the Big “O,” especially the Pinot Noirs, but we only see a mere smattering of these wines trickle through our respective liquor boards. Many say it is because of the small amounts of these wines that are being made. The good news is that Oregon does more than just Pinot Noir, though it is what they are most commonly known for. They also do a great job with Pinot Gris and Chardonnay, which make up the two biggest white varietal plantings in the state, and, even more surprising, in that order. Oregon is one of the top five wine-producing states in the USA. According to the 2014 stats of The National Association of American Wineries, it follows California, Washington and New York — sitting comfortably in fifth spot behind … (wait for it) … Pennsylvania. Those same stats show
the number of actual wineries in Oregon, which puts them in third place behind California and Washington but ahead of New York and Virginia. The major AVAs of the state are the Willamette Valley, Southern Oregon and the Columbia Gorge, which follows the Columbia River and includes both Oregon and Washington lands. The question remains, for those of us who have never been, or been exposed to enough of its wines: what makes Oregon such a wonderful place for grapes and winemaking? I spoke with a gentleman who has made Oregon part of his trifecta of regions. Thomas Bachelder started his label back in 2009 and decided to use grapes from his native Ontario, his love, Burgundy and his former state of employment, Oregon, as the basis for his Pinot Noir and Chardonnay dominated wines. He seemed the perfect person to ask what makes Oregon such a lure, not only for a winemaker, but for a wine lover as well; and hopefully put it into a context that we can all understand. “Oregon is known for its wet winters, but the summers are bone dry and the wines sing of the intense luminosity of those pacific hills. Working with fruit from both the Sandstone and Volcanic (Basaltic) strata that predominate in Oregon, we aim to capture the fruit, coax
perfume and elegance out of the famously-concentrated Oregon Pinot Noir and find the stunning minerality of Oregon Chardonnay in all of its lacy purity. There are very important similarities in the way Oregon and Niagara are planted. Not only are the Oregon vines planted on a wider spacing than Burgundy, the vines are younger … this naturally gives the New World wines a fruit forward character that is evident, even after 16 to 18 months of barrel age and subsequent bottle age. In addition, Oregon vines must be lightly irrigated to get them through the parched (but not too hot) Oregon summer.” Now that we’re all salivating at the thought of putting Oregon wines to our own lips, here’s a bunch to look for next time you’re in the mood to head west (or at least as far as Oregon).
ARGYLE ARTISAN SERIES RESERVE PINOT NOIR 2012 ($49.95) Light yet generous of flavour with cherry and strawberry framed by spice and fine tannins.
DUCK POND PINOT NOIR 2012 ($29.95) Straddles the line between Burgundy and California with good tannins, sweet cherry and peppered minerality. SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 27
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02
03 01 Duck Pond winemaker Mark Chargin; 02 Michael Davies at A to Z Wineworks; 03 Elk Cove’s Adam Campbell; 04 Elizabeth Grant-Douglas, Director of Winemaking at La Crema 28 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
04
ADELSHEIM PINOT GRIS 2012, WILLAMETTE VALLEY ($24.95)
PLOWBUSTER PINOT NOIR 2012 ($25.95)
What really gets you hooked on Oregon Pinot Gris is the minerality and it is definitely here, along with nicely balanced fruit and acidity — but that minerality, wow.
The one thing you can say about a well-crafted Oregon Pinot is that it is quite pretty. The Plowbuster is fruit forward, to say the least, with its dusty cherry, hints of plum and touch of cinnamon.
CARABELLA ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2012 ($46.95) Boysenberry, cassis, black cherry, and hints of liquorice all get in on the action before that signature minerality takes over on the finish.
BACHELDER PINOT NOIR 2012 ($35) One of the best Oregon Pinots I have tried, from the master of Pinot and Chardonnay: cherry jumps out of the glass with notes of cranberry and violets.
ADELSHEIM WILLAMETTE VALLEY PINOT NOIR 2011 ($39.95) Soft and supple upon entry, fruit is subtle and delicate with sour cherry and cranberry taking centre stage, by the time the finish rolls around you’ll find a nice balancing spice and backing acidity.
DOMAINE SERENE YAMHILL CUVEE PINOT NOIR 2011 ($69.95) Once again we have a Pinot with an abundance of fruit, cherry, cranberry and strawberry with a tart finish that sings with acidity and minerality.
JOLETE PINOT NOIR 2012 ($44.95) Seemingly simple, but simply delicious is the best way to describe this one: vanilla and smoke with spiced-raspberry and violet encrusted strawberries, very pretty indeed.
BACHELDER JOHNSON VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2012 ($44.95) Silky Chardonnay with creamy apple and pear purée, hardly shows the oak that was used in the crafting of this wine; there’s also a touch of vanilla that creeps into the mix, but you’ll definitely get the minerality on the finish.
PLANET OREGON PINOT NOIR 2012 ($25.95) Pleasantly Pinot-esque with its earthy raspberry, dried red fruits and a pleasant spicy finish; it’s not complex, but for those looking to explore Oregon Pinot, it’s a great place to start.
ELK COVE PINOT GRIS 2013 ($24.95) You’ll notice a recurring theme in many Oregon wines, especially the Pinot Gris: minerality. There’s a nice dose of mineral in this one with nice apple and pear notes.
LA CREMA PINOT NOIR 2012, WILLAMETTE VALLEY ($34.95) Here we have that mix of La Crema knowhow from California and that Oregon soil and minerality: red fruit meets spice and acidity in the glass.
DOMAINE DROUHIN DUNDEE HILLS PINOT NOIR 2011 ($46.95) Yet another foreigner comes to Oregon to play with Pinot, this time from Burgundy, and here they have managed to make a sweet cherry fruit explosion with anise and spice; incredible juiciness.
BACHELDER JOHNSON VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2012 ($55) It starts off with a nose that screams of juicy cherry and raspberry but in creeps a hint of salty-minerality; this follows onto the palate in all its red berry glory and smoothness with a whack of minerality on the tongue.
ADELSHEIM CHARDONNAY 2013 ($25.95) A Chardonnay that blends the loveliness of fruits, such as apple and melon, with tropical nuances plus a touch of smoke and mineral for good measure.
A TO Z WINEWORKS PINOT NOIR 2012 ($24.95) Oregon Pinot is known for being at the higher end of the price scale, but A to Z seems to have found a way to make Oregon wine accessible as well as tasty. The earthy, sour cherry and cranberry version might seem like a basic Pinot Noir, but it’s another great wine to start your education of the wines from this state. ×
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Pop quiz!
WHICH VINEYARDS, VALUED AT FOUR BILLION EUROS, ARE THE MOST EXPENSIVE IN ALL OF ITALY?
by Evan Saviolidis Most would fancy a guess down the path of Chianti Classico, Brunello or Barolo. All are logical choices, but believe it or not, the answer is Valpolicella. Now, some might think my fact checking is slightly skewed because of the low cost of basic Valpolicella wines. True, but one should not forget the high price fetched for the wine, which is the driving force behind the appellation — Amarone, and to a lesser extent, Ripasso. Of the close to 13 million bottles of Amarone produced annually, almost 80 percent is exported, with the big-boy markets being Germany, USA and Canada. As for the country with the largest increase, that honour rests with Russia. This trend will inevitably increase with the arrival of the 2011 vintage, which has earned a perfect five stars by the local Consorzio and is now in their books as one of the best ever. Amarone, unlike other red table wines, requires the convergence of two factors to ensure a top-quality vintage. The first, a great growing season. The second, a great autumn to ensure a proper and a healthy desiccation period (appassimento), which usually lasts two to three months. In 2011, both were perfect.
THE GROWING SEASON
Following a wet winter, March arrived with above average heat, which started the sap flowing, ensuring an early bud break. With the turn of the calendar, the first 10 days of April saw the temperature increase once again, causing vegetation to develop. Unlike previous years, there was no rain, but that was mitigated by the extra water in the soil from the winter. May also continued the theme of warmth, which contributed to the flowering that started on the 20th of the month, some 20 days earlier than the norm. June and the first half of July brought average to high temperatures, with just the right amount of rain. In the middle of July, the temperature dipped, slowing down the advanced growth cycle. August and September, the months which shape the quality, were warm as opposed to hot. August had zero precipitation and September just a smidge. These factors helped to create a long and leisurely ripening process, which produced small berries that were phenolically ripe, with skins that were 20 percent thicker than normal.
APPASSIMENTO AND VINIFICATION
The grapes were laid on drying racks at the end of September. With the arrival of October, temperatures abruptly dropped to 14 30 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
degrees, with no humidity or rain. Coupled with the thicker skins, this ensured that the long drying process produced concentrated and healthy raisins. It is also important to note that the larger, more technologically advanced wineries have invested in temperature/ humidity controlled rooms to ensure the same conditions, regardless of autumn climactic conditions. Vinification started in January and the minimum two years of aging soon followed.
THE STYLE
This past winter, I was invited to Anteprima Amarone, the annual new vintage tasting in Verona, which showcased the wines of the 2011 vintage. After tasting over one hundred wines, I can say, without hyperbole, that the majority (there are always a few underperformers) were fabulous. They show ripe jammy fruit (red and black), concentration, polished tannins, and alcohol levels hovering around the 16 percent marker. Most impressive is the fact that even though they are high-octane, the concentration holds the alcohol in check. Below are my favourites. You will probably notice that some of the most famous names in Amarone are not present. The reason is that they have formed their own organization to promote their personal interest, and were not part of the Anteprima event. Based on what I tasted, I have no doubt that those wines will perform admirably. Prices for the wines listed below should be between 50 and 75 dollars when they hit our shores.
93 ACCORDINI STEFANO ACINATICO This wonderful ripe and polished Amarone shows layers of plum, cassis liqueur, raspberry, sweet dark cherry, vanilla, chocolate and spice. The 16.5% alcohol is nicely buried under the concentrated palate and long finish. This will easily age for 15 to 20 years.
93 BENNATI This, along with the Accordini, was my favourite wine of the annual Amarone preview tasting. Made in an old-school oxidized style, this wine’s concentration and complexity is impressive. Cherry, raspberry, spice, tomato purée, raspberry, vanilla, cocoa, dried flowers and mint carry the superb finale.
92 SCRIANI This wine is slightly shy at this early stage, but you can see that there is greatness in the bottle. Graphite, plum, dark cherry, cocoa, earth, tobacco and violets all appear at this early stage. Cellar until 2018 and then drink over the subsequent 15 years.
91 CA’ RUGATE
90 PIETRO ZANONI
At the low end of the Amarone alcohol spectrum (14.5%), this refined bottle serves up sweet cherry, plum, earth, vanilla, spice and cola. There is excellent length, some spicy alcohol and a slightly higher average residual sugar of 11g/l, which might irk some. This is made for braised lamb and beef dishes.
Firmly tannic, this Amarone still needs some time. Vanilla, cherry, spice, violets and leather are in play in this wine. Hold until 2017 and then drink until 2028.
91 FALEZZE This small, artisanal family winery, which is located on the flatlands of Valpolicella, was one of my discoveries at this year’s Anteprima Amarone, in Veneto. It just goes to show that a great wine can be made outside the fabled Classico zone, when respect of the land, old vines (80 years here), and dedication come together. Concentrated, yet linear, this wine delivers the goods in the form of dark fruit, cherry, vanilla and black pepper. Give it another year in the bottle and then drink until 2027.
89 TEZZA CORTE MAJOLI A slightly roasted nose of plum, cherry, spice and rubber greet raspberry, raisin and earth on the taste buds. There is very good length and enough chutzpah to cellar for a decade.
89 CESARI A mid-weight Amarone with a profile of prune, cocoa, earth and spice. Solid length and ready to drink. It will not make old bones, but is certainly satisfying.
91 ALDEGHERI This Amarone beguiles with aromas of plum, vanilla, spice, cocoa, raspberry, vanilla and a most unusual edamame character. The same is found on the palate as well as a slight tinge of nuttiness. There is also some apparent heat as the fruit fades away.
91 FARINA Another old-school style that emphasizes number 2 pencil, spice, herbs, tomato vine, raspberry and cherry. The palate adds raisin, plum and cocoa, as well as great persistency.
91 BUGLIANI Explosive aromas of plum, dark raspberry, blackberry, spice, violets and earth also come out on the refined palate, which shows a sweet texture and a superb aftertaste. 15 years of longevity ahead.
91 LATIUM MORINI CAMPO LEON The fruit tingles on the overripe side. Plum, raisins, earth, cocoa and spice carry long into the sunset. Great juice that is a perfect foil for roast pork with a prune sauce or a steak with a rich demi-glace.
Ca’ Rugate Michele and Amedeo Tessari
91 ROCCOLO GRASSI
89 PASQUA TERRE DI CARIANO
Starts with a dark fruit explosion and then the spice and cocoa kick in. Linear on the palate, the tannins are still forward, so age it for a couple years and then drink over the subsequent decade.
Here you will find a solid, straight up Amarone that doles out the plum, cherry, violet, dried earth, raisins and spice. Finishes warm and is ready to drink.
90 GAMBA LE QUARE
88 SALVATERRA
Robust, this modern Amarone doles out mocha, coffee, plum, dark cherry and spice. The palate is refined, with excellent length and a somewhat soft personality.
This is a rather simple and light Amarone, especially considering the greatness of the 2011 vintage. Fruit, earth, spice and an ever-present alcohol mandate early drinking.
90 SAN CASSIANO
88 TENUTE UGOLINI
The bouquet of cassis, coffee, toast and vanilla finds its way onto the taste buds, where herbs, chocolate and red fruits carry the long finish. It will age well for 10 years.
Leans towards the red fruit spectrum, with dashes of cocoa and earth acting as an accent. Lengthy aftertaste and somewhat simple. Drink up.
90 VALENTINA CUBI MORAR
88 CANTINA DI SOAVE CADIS
A solid Amarone that reveals plum, raspberry, cherry, spice and cola qualities. Elegant, the fruit echoes all the way to the end. It should improve in the bottle.
There is a dark ruby colour with a perfume of spice/pepper, dried flowers and cherry. Finishes dry, so pair with some braised lamb or beef stew. × SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 31
AU NATURAL words and images by Rick VanSickle
NOTHING ADDED, NOTHING TAKEN AWAY. That may be the mantra that
drives purists in the “Vin Nature” movement, but for those dabbling in this brave (or as some would say, silly) new world of natural winemaking, there is a whole lot of grey area in that statement. As Tawse Estate winemaker Paul Pender told me only a few scant years ago: “Natural wine in its purest form is going out to the vineyard and eating a grape.” He vowed then that he would never make a natural wine even though he already had a jump on the trend with his organically and biodynamically-farmed vineyards and minimalist intervention winemaking techniques at his Niagara winery. So — quelle surprise — Pender bottled his first 100 percent natural wine last spring, evoking the term “never say never” because it always comes back to haunt you. Natural wines have been getting “so much talk and hype,” says Pender. “We wanted to know if it’s possible to make a natural wine that shows the terroir of the vineyard and not just the flaws (such as oxidation, reduction, Brettanomyces, etc.)” He admits it was “easy to say I’ll never do it” back in 2011. He’s still not sold on the concept of natural wines, calling most of the examples he’s tasted as being “oxidized” and unpleasant. But he was willing to give it a shot and may even make a red “natural” wine from 32 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
estate Cabernet Franc or Gamay depending on how the Chardonnay turns out during its evolution. Pender’s natural wine was made from Chardonnay grapes harvested from the winery’s Quarry Road Vineyard, and was wild fermented and aged on the lees in new 500-litre Mercurey oak puncheons. Pender bottled the wine directly from two oak barrels, going “old school” and drilling a hole in the bottom of the puncheons. Because the wine has no sulphur added, which means no preservatives to protect it from premature aging, the 1,000 bottles were sold with a warning to consumers to enjoy the wines in their youth (within six months of release while keeping them in a cool, dark cellar before drinking). The wine, at $36 a bottle, sold out immediately. To taste the wine, which is ever evolving in the bottle and maturing rapidly, it has a rounded texture on the palate with flavours of pear and apple, and a subtle creamy note. It lacks the freshness and finesse of its “non-natural” sibling from Quarry Road, because there is no sulphur added to the wine. It’s different, but different in a good way. As is the Bella Wines Methode Ancestrale Rosé 2014, a Naramata Bench sparkling wine made by the chef-turned-winemaker Jay Drysdale. For this sparkling rosé, Drysdale wild ferments his organically grown single-vineyard Gamay, uses
no sulphur, has zero dosage (no added sugar) and no secondary fermentation (it finishes its first fermentation in the bottle). It is essentially an early-picked Gamay with sparkle; an austere, pure, fresh, tangy and intense wine that is as true an expression of the vineyard as you can get. “I’D RATHER GIVE AN HONEST WINE THAN SOMETHING THAT WAS DOCTORED,” Drysdale says. “It’s so focused
that I’m able to geek out just on that.” Drysdale isn’t the first to go natural in BC. Others are jumping in with various recipes and styles. One getting a lot of attention is the Haywire winery in Summerland. The Haywire Free Form is a blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc made with no commercial yeasts, enzymes or sulphur added; in other words, natural and unfiltered. The wine is pressed after full malolactic fermentation and eight months of skin contact. It is a thought-provoking and multi-dimensional wine, with a nose of flinty minerality, lemon, grapefruit, tropical fruits and a complex array of citrus peel, mango and melon. It has lovely texture on the palate, with some weight, and bursts with flavour. It’s a pure geek wine that has generated a lot of discussion and encouraged others to explore the boundaries of traditional winemaking.
The latest “natural” wine to emerge from the shadows is from the organic-biodynamic vineyards of Niagara’s Southbrook winery. The Southbrook “orange” wine, made with 100 percent Vidal, shows a cloudy orange/copper-glowing hue in the glass. It’s certainly an aromatic wonder, all citrusy with lime zest and equal parts tropical and pear-apple fruit notes, but it takes some thought to nail the complex components on the nose. It gets more interesting in the mouth. There is texture, body and soul; there is something alive about this wine. The citrus fruit is substantive, pulpy yet clean, with a lively, zesty and tangy freshness; but it also shows elegance and poise, making you think and wonder, what is this? At the heart of this compelling wine is a vibrant core of racy acidity that props up all the components and energizes the palate. It is “natural” in every sense of the word: Wild yeast fermented, no temperature control whatsoever, no wood influence and no sulphites, that’s zero sulphites, which is very important to understand and extremely risky to attempt. Winemaker Ann Sperling says she has been waiting to make a wine like this “for a long time” and says it is only possible when “you have the structure in the vineyard” to support the wine. It is that “structure” that Sperling is chasing with her interpretation of orange wine. Paul Pender at Tawse
So, what is a natural wine?
The mere mention of “natural” wines strikes general discord among wine lovers. It’s been called many different things — naked, live, naturel, among them — and it has its critics and supporters on both sides of the fence. Perhaps the most severe description comes from natural wine crusader Alice Feiring, author of Naked Wine, on Cory Cartwright’s Saignee blog. Here she describes in a letter to Cartwright what “Vin Nature” wines are not: “Any wine that deploys aromatic yeasts, enzymes, bacteria, new oak, toasted oak, oak additives, tannins, gum arabic, reverse osmosis for concentration or alcohol removal, spinning cone, excessive sugar, mega-purple thermo-vinification, cold-soaking, anti-foaming agents, ultra-sulfuring and God knows what else, in any combination, is far from natural. To argue the point is being combative, or desperate.” Feiring’s simple definition of what natural wines are, which leaves room for interpretation and debate, is this: “Nothing added, nothing taken away.” I have always preferred a less severe definition, like this one from Matt Mallo, who works at one of the finest wine shops in Boston, The Wine Bottega, which specializes in natural wines: “Possibly the most controversial banner of our day, the term ‘natural wine’ really means nothing at all. There is no governing body or book of guidelines to making ‘vin naturel’. In general, when we at the shop speak of natural wine, we are talking about producers that work the vineyards without chemicals, they sometimes use biodynamic principles (sometimes not). “They cultivate healthy grapes, which they allow to ferment without the addition of commercial/industrial yeasts, colour stabilizers, acid adjustments, etc. Basically, natural wines are those that haven’t been messed around with. Where organic wines stop at the cellar door, natural wine merely begins. It’s about the simplest and most honest expression of the terroir through the medium that we call wine.” The sticking point for most sustainable wineries, of course, is the use of sulphur, an essential component in the making of wine. Sulphur dioxide (SO2) is used to inhibit or kill unwanted yeasts and bacteria, and to protect wine from oxidation. If you are commercial winery and want to be successful, this is a crucial step not to be missed. Not using even small amounts of sulphur is a risk most winemakers do not want to take (and fewer winery owners). × Chef-turned-winemaker Jay Drysdale from Bella
SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 33
Cast of Characters by Tod Stewart
THE RESIDENTS OF VINIFERA BLVD ARE A DIVERSE LOT. Many of them are international superstars, darlings of
both critics and consumers. They are inevitably of royal European lineage, with roots stretching far back through history. Being the time of year when they’re all out flaunting their fruit after a summer of soaking up the sun, we’ve a grape opportunity to check out the berries on the block. There’s Cabernet Sauvignon — chiselled hard-body (and captain of the grapeball team), who answers to Cab Sauv (or Cab Suave, or King Cab) and who’s rarely seen without his loyal buds — the somewhat fleshy Merlot and the sinuous one we’ll just call Franc (who sometimes comes off as a bit green, but also sports a spicy kick). These guys seem to always end up in the same vat together. Kinda suspicious, if you think about it. Then there’s the (almost inseparable) Betty and Veronica duo of pretty Ms Chardonnay and her darker, more mysterious foil, Mme Pinot Noir. The former makes friends everywhere and can come off as bubbly but at times, a bit vacuous, though she does have quite a serious side when you can coax it out. The beguiling Mme Noir is almost everything her GF isn’t — temperamental, thin-skinned and often downright hard to work with. In spite of the fact that she can really get up in your canopy, she has a devout following that’s willing to put up with her prima donna antics for an all-too-rare glimpse of her true vinous beauty. She has a ton of clones. Anyway, moving on … Ah, there’s the split personality — Dr Syrah and Mr Shiraz. Sure, same roots, but two distinct characters. Dr Syrah is by far the more serious of the pair. He can be wrapped a bit tight at times, but he does — as any sapling will attest — open up when Lady Viognier crosses his path. Must be the French connection or something. Mr Shiraz is louder and tends to speak in purple prose. However, you have to admire his close-to-universal popularity. He’s always gathering clusters at veraison, which, to me, just reeks of Mega-purple (and often of inner staves). Personally, I find him to be a show-off that could use a good cropping. Hope he gets oidium … if not phylloxera. Okay, stop staring at the well-pruned, willowy blond with the high-trellises. Fräulein Riesling. German supermodel type. Elegant, refined … and also a bit racy — but apparently she’s not really into blending. Shame to see her staying single (bet she’s highly organic). Sometimes her perfume can be a tad distracting — sorta like the high-octane stuff she decants into her 34 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
Beemer — but I’m sure she’ll age gracefully if she can keep her nose outta the oxygen. Anyway, she’s not gonna find her prince by kissing nematodes. Just sayin’. I could pick (or pick on) a few other various and sundry ripe berries in the field … if pressed. There are the Italians, notably Nebbiolo (a kinda hard seed from some fog-enshrouded hamlet in the north), and Sangiovese (a nice ragazzo from the Tuscan hills who’s — IMHO — being overly influenced by King Cab and his droogs). I think he’s taken to sleeping way too long in that new oak apartment. Neither of these guys is really into travelling, though. They pretty much stick to their own plots. Pinot Gris — Mr Gris — less said about him the better. Seriously, he’s a mutant (with questionable tastes ... Fifty Shades of Gris, and all that). But at least he has some character, not like his evil twin, Grigio. “Wet” is about his most redeeming quality. Popular though (for whatever reason). I’m not quite sure about the pip over there they call Gamay. Is he red or white? Sometimes hard to tell. Yeah, he can get a party stomping, but I find him just a tad fruity. Plus, he, like, does carbonic (everybody knows) … and believe me, it ain’t pretty when he’s fermenting internally. Guy sulking behind the mechanical harvester? Zinfandel — beefy, darkly tanned West Coast dude with a severe image problem. Couldn’t get enough attention so he came out and told everyone that he was really pink. Now he’s in full-on damage control mode, claiming the pink thing was “manipulation” and that he’s really “serious.” Right. Well, at least Paul Draper hasn’t abandoned him. Yet. Speaking of serious, I’m seriously done with all the fuss over flighty little Sauvignon Blanc. She was actually pretty well behaved back home in France, but then the damn Kiwis put her up on a pedestal and her inner banshee was loosed. Now she just screams shrilly (and incessantly) about the virtues of cut grass, gooseberry and cooked asparagus. Grow up … little tart! In any case, I’ve had it with these desirable (I refuse to call them “noble”) vines that laud it around the world. Do they think their VA doesn’t stink? Anyway, they’ve all taken to the graft — and I’m pretty sure the whole overripe bunch is into fungicides. I’d rather have the juice of other, lesser but more honest, raisins under my refractometer. These guys may not be the most popular on the block, but without them some regions — and even countries — wouldn’t have much of a wine culture.
Meet, for example, my good friend Señor Garnacha (aka Monsieur Grenache when he travels to France). Garnacha gets around (including to places like Sardinia, where he answers to the more exotic-sounding Cannonau. He even covers close to 1,000 hectares in Mexico, of all places), but where he likes best to flex his shoots is under the hot sun of Spain and southern France. Sr Garnacha is a working man, to be sure, but this doesn’t mean he can’t hold his own among his more aristocratic counterparts. In fact, in Spain, he often lends his backbone to support the more swish (though far less gutsy) Tempranillo. In France, he can be seen, more often than not, contemplating vinous verities over a glass of pastis with the stoic Dr Syrah. However, as much as Sr Garnacha likes to mingle and lend support to all who require it, he can shine on his own (though this still seems to be a bit of a secret). He’s the High Pape of Châteauneuf in the playground of Château Reyas, and in the volcanic, licorella soils of Priorat, he lends weight to some of Spain’s most expensive and sought-after reds. Íñigo Alberto, Commercial Director of Bodegas Borsao (located in the Campo de Borja region of Aragón — The Empire of the Garnacha), is very familiar with the various faces of Sr Garnacha. Though he’s distinctly masculine, Alberto says he has a certain Cinderella-like character. “He’s done the dirty work for decades, but now he’s starting to shine on his own!” Alberto also notes that Sr Garnacha’s character shifts based on where he lives. “He can produce light and simple wines with low acidity when grown in rich soils with plenty of water and mild temperatures. On the other hand, when grown in harsh conditions like in Campo de Borja that include scarce rain, windy conditions (the Cierzo is the local name of the wind), hot summers and cold winters, Garnacha vines produce smaller [amounts] of voluptuous wines; lively and vibrant with perfect balance between acidity and alcohol.” It’s also good to note, as Alberto does, that the sprightly, young version of Garnacha behaves nothing like the more mature elder character. “Garnacha is very sensitive to age,” Alberto reveals. “Meaning that the older he is, the better the grapes he will produce. An old Garnacha vine will be very consistent in terms of yield and also in terms of quality, something that doesn’t happen with other varieties. Our aim is to preserve the oldest plots of Garnacha in Campo de Borja by applying the best possible practices to avoid the uprooting of these very unique vines.” Yes, Sr Garnacha enjoys his place in the sun (low-key as it might be). I wish I could say the same for the shy, yet charming and fair-skinned, Mademoiselle Chenin (Blanc). The poor girl. Such potential. Such versatility. So misunderstood. It’s very sad, really, and I pity her as much as I (secretly) swoon over her. She’s the Mary Ann Summers to Fräulein Riesling’s Ginger Grant (and like Mary Ann, all the boys would probably take her over Riesling any day). She lets her vivacity show (as much as is proper for a lady of her demeanour) back home in the cool vineyards of the Loire, where her naturally high acidity is held in check by a real sweet streak. But on the international scene, she strikes me as somewhat confused about her own identity — who she is, what she should be doing and how she should be presenting herself to the world’s discerning cognofrementi.
“Malbec crosses terroirs distinctively and beautifully, yielding wines that can be big, fat and blowsy, or very floral and mineral-driven.” Winemaker Paul Hobbs
“My feel is that Chenin Blanc is both male and female,” says Neil Fortes, owner of the Wine Guru agency that specializes in (among other things) South African wines (he also owns a farm in South Africa), noting that in that region (where the grape has made a second home), it can yield wines that are refined and feminine, as well as bold and masculine. Originally planted to slake the thirst of those looking for a simple quaff, a handful of pioneers began experimenting with wood-aged Chenin in a decidedly “serious” style. At one point, Steen (as the South Africans called he/she/it) was in danger of loosing its foothold, grubbed up in favour of sexier numbers. But a new wave of winemakers is bringing it the attention it deserves. “In South Africa … Chenin is now a cult varietal,” Fortes confirms, “and winemakers are trying to make great Chenin. There is now a Chenin challenge [competition] in South Africa and many winemakers have stepped up to try their hand.” While Ms/Mr (whichever) Chenin grapples with identity issues, other grapes have clearly established themselves and, having been more or less shown the door by their country of origin, have risen to heights in fields abroad. Enter Malbec and Carménère. Until fairly recently, Carm and Mal were having a bit of a tough go of things. Carm used to hang with Cab Sauv & Co in the posh enclaves of Bordeaux, until phylloxera (the Black Death of European grapes) brought that little party to an end. Most of the big shots accepted American graft and came back to life; Carm refused to be taken. Luckily, Carm managed to hightail it to Chile and escaped total extinction. Here, he was thought to be Merlot for the longest time. In any case, Carm fell in love with the warm South American sun, as well as the long, dry autumns in Chile’s Central Valley. SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 35
KEN FORRESTER OLD VINE RESERVE CHENIN BLANC 2014, SOUTH AFRICA ($20) Waxy, apricot nose with hints of fresh melon, vanilla and a sprinkle of dried herbs. Quite full and creamy on the palate with flavours suggesting honeydew melon, ripe apple and a touch of vanilla on the finish.
BORSAO GARNACHA 2013, BORJA, SPAIN ($12) Here we have Sr Garnacha doing one of the things he does best — lending support and backbone to more “prestigious” grape varieties — in this case, Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon (the proportions of which vary depending on the year). There are subtle hints of iodine, mineral and freshly cut herbs, along with notes of cedar shavings and cocoa powder. Flavours of fresh black raspberry are enhanced by hints of graphite and spice that trail off to a long, persistent finish.
VIÑA COBOS BRAMARE MALBEC 2012, ARGENTINA ($45) The complex aromatic profile offers up blueberry, kirsch, mint, tobacco leaf, wet slate and coffee grounds. Rich and full, but retaining balance and poise among the layers of blueberry, blackberry, earthy/gamey/mint notes. Certainly not the cheap ‘n cheerful stuff most of us are used to, but proof that in the right vineyards, and in the right hands, Argentine Malbec is truly capable of greatness.
ALAMOS MALBEC 2013, ARGENTINA ($15) The 2013 Alamos Malbec is 90 percent composed of the principal variety, with support from Syrah and Bonarda. Loads of concentrated, smoky plum and dark berry aromas give way to a fairly dense structure that wraps itself around the palate, coating it with layers of blackberry, subtle oak and mild spice. It matched famously with a 48 oz “tomahawk” steak that I devoured along with about six other people (to clarify: I devoured the steak, as did the six other people) at a lovely Argentine resto in Toronto.
BODEGA NORTON MALBEC RESERVA 2011, ARGENTINA ($18) Fruit for this wine was sourced from vines over thirty years old. Eucalyptus, cassis, violet, tobacco leaf, wood smoke and maybe a touch of new leather and bell pepper. Nicely balanced with flavours suggesting mint, black cherry, black pepper and dark chocolate. Long and supple on the finish.
ARTAMISQUE MALBEC 2011, ARGENTINA ($30) From 100-year-old, pre-phyloxera rootstock vines comes this muscular (15% ABV), dense, concentrated Malbec that’ll certainly please those who appreciate both power and poise. Typical aromas of blueberry and wet slate are enhanced and given complexity via suggestions of mint and menthol. Dense, meaty and ultra-concentrated, it’s loaded with black cherry compote seamlessly integrated with some sweet oak notes. A real heavyweight.
SANTA ALICIA RESERVA CARMENERE 2013, CHILE ($13) For less than $13.00, Santa Alicia’s Reserva Carmenere offers exceptional value. Black cherry, smoky plum, leather, mocha, vanilla, tobacco leaf...there all here and wrapped around a core of ripe, mouth filling dark fruit flavours. A kiss of spice and vanilla follow through on the silky finish. 36 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
“Carménère is recognized as a green variety,” explains François Pouzet, Export Manager North America for Bethwines, which counts Santa Alicia as one of its many Chilean brands. “To reach his potential, he needs to be picked very late in comparison with other varieties.” Pouzet also points out that Carm’s original nemesis, phylloxera, has never made it to Chile. “Thanks to our ‘natural borders’ with the Andes Mountain in the east, the Coastal range in the west, the desert in the north and the ice in the south, it is very difficult for any pest like the phylloxera to get inside our country and harm our vineyards.” This has made Carm very happy and very grateful to his new Chilean friends, whom he has repaid with generous fruit yields and in turn, luscious, award-winning red wines. Like Carm, Mal also struck pay dirt in South America — in Argentina this time — where he’s given the country absolutely nothing to cry about. He still lingers in pockets of his French homeland, and his successful rise to stardom overseas is also elevating his status back there. Paul Hobbs, a “flying winemaker” with something of the Midas touch, saw the potential of Malbec — and of Argentine wines in general — during his first visit in 1988. Having attracted the attention of French winemaker Bertrand Vigouroux (whose family has been producing Malbec-based wines in Cahors since the 1860s), the pair established a partnership and is now producing Crocus Malbec de Cahors in the French soil where Mal first grew up. For Hobbs, visiting Cahors was much like his first visit to Argentina. “I had a very similar feeling,” he confirms. “Just like in Argentina, I saw a vast amount of hidden potential in Cahors … but the wines struck me as being hard, green and aggressively tannic.” He adds that with Crocus, the aim is to do for Malbec in Cahors what he helped do with Malbec in Argentina, noting, with a degree of irony, that the situation in Cahors “ … is possibly the only one where France is having to catch up to the New World.” But the geography and weather in the foothills of the Andes must be quite different from that of the southwest France wine region. Apparently, this suits Mal fine. “Malbec can be spectacular in very dissimilar regions,” Hobbs explains. “He crosses terroirs distinctively and beautifully, yielding wines that can be big, fat and blowsy, or very floral and mineral-driven.” David Bonomi, winemaker for Argentina’s Bodega Norton, concurs with Hobbs. “Keep in mind that Malbec spreads from northern Argentina (Salta-Jujuy) to Patagonia (Neuquen-Rio Negro) with excellent results, but in very different styles.” He’s truly a grape for all palates, my friend Mal, and he’s won the hearts of many. As Bonomi eloquently states, “Malbec is a kind gentleman, with a very adaptable personality, who stands out, but possesses the right touch of modesty. Malbec is trustworthy and will not let you down. In the end, everybody loves him. When you meet him, you’ll fall in love and you won’t let him go.” Indeed, those staking a claim on Vinifera Blvd can represent some pretty royal lineage. But I’d suggest getting to know the more marginal types. They can be less demanding on your patience and pocketbooks. With a little persistence, I think you’ll find them to be generous, reliable and most importantly, very, very friendly. ×
Barley Soup To Warm The Soul by Silvana Lau
IN THE BEGINNING, MAN CREATED BEER — THE SAME BORING ONE-DIMENSIONAL STUFF, EASY DRINKING AND LIGHT, MEANT TO BE SERVED ICE COLD. (Hello Coors light! Bonjour
Canadian!) Then came the craft movement, with beers as creative as Starbucks coffee was to that once-sleepy industry. Many of these experimental brews happen to be much higher in ABV (alcohol by volume) as well, as craft brewers pursue the most extreme flavours possible. Many of these intense flavours require higher grain content, ultimately spiking the alcohol levels of the final brew. Yet high alcohol beers are hardly new. The British, Germans and Belgians have been brewing boozy beers for years, since they discovered increasing the alcohol content made the beer more stable for storage and export. Furthermore, new brewing techniques have elevated ABV levels even higher than historically possible. Today, many breweries have produced beers with alcohol contents that far exceed those found in spirits. Known for pushing boundaries, Scottish Brewer BrewDog
concocted an immensely alcoholic beer. “The End of History” has a whopping ABV of 55 percent. To reach this colossal potency level, a fractional freezing technique is employed. This involves cooling the beer so that the water content freezes while the alcohol remains in its liquid form. The water is then separated from the alcohol, increasing the beer’s body, flavour and alcohol content. Only 11 bottles were made available worldwide, and sold stuffed inside either a taxidermied squirrel or stoat (shhhh! Don’t tell PETA). At $650 USD and $900 USD respectively, it’s also one of the most price-potent brews in the world. Unfortunately (or, fortunately), a $900 beer isn’t typically the sort of thing most of us would opt for if we want something hearty to warm us up on a chilly autumn evening. Still, the palate of the new generation of beer drinker is often looking for brews that are different, tasty and assertive. Rainhard Brewing, one of Toronto’s newest players in the craft industry, is responding to the growing demand for innovative beers. A homebrew heavyweight who has won several brewing awards, Jordan
Rainhard is an excellent example of an entrepreneur leaving his corporate marketing day job to follow his passion. “I could not find the beer I wanted to drink, so I decided to make my own,” Rainhard says. “I brew what I love to drink and that’s hoppy styles.” Many of these “hoppier style” beers also have a higher ABV content. “Our style is high ABV, but we aren’t forcing it. I didn’t set out to brew a 10 percent ABV beer. When I’m crafting a recipe, I start with the malt and decide what kind of base flavours I want and where I want to take it. Some breweries dump flavourless dextrose to the brew to bump up the ABV. At Rainhard, we don’t add any sugar. We don’t just throw hops into a beer; we want to achieve a balanced IPA, so we add malts to intensify the flavour. Our goal is to create a well-balanced and complex beer,” notes Rainhard. The concept of “more is more” holds true here, as in more added malts, more flavour and more alcohol. He further explains, “Every brewmaster wants to push the boundaries. We are all very competitive, yet there is a sense of camaraderie. Everyone is trying to one up on each other. Who SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 37
Pretty soon it will be frosty out, and you will need a beer that will keep you warm from the mid-autumn chill. You won’t need a coat; you will only need this beer list: RAINHARD BREWING LAZY BONES IPA TORONTO, CANADA 6.7% ABV ($6.95/650 ML) Seductive dank citrus and resinous pine in the aroma. A very solid take on a West Coast style IPA, with big juicy citrus hops enveloping your tongue, followed by a moderate presence of bitterness. The pungent tropical fruit gives off a perceived sweetness, but the beer is very dry. If you drink enough of these, you will get lazy. A perfect sipper for a lazy Sunday … actually, perfect anytime.
NICKELBROOK BOLSHEVIK BASTARD IMPERIAL STOUT BURLINGTON, CANADA 8.5 % ABV ($9.95/341 ML, 4-PACK) Skip the dessert and have this instead! Dark, intense brown, almost black in colour, with a thick creamy head that subsides quickly. Cocoa, vanilla, dark fruit and coffee aromas. The flavours don’t fall too far away from the smell. Although it has a creamy and silky mouthfeel, it is a tad thin. Don’t be intimidated by the 8.5% ABV; the roasted malts hide the alcohol strength. Goes down so effortlessly that you can be a total bastard if you aren’t careful. Na zdorovye!
UNIBROUE LA FIN DU MONDE TRIPLE STYLE GOLDEN ALE CHAMBLY, QUEBEC, CANADA 9% ABV ($7.99) A Belgian Tripel that pours like Champagne! A hazy golden colour with a touch of amber. A stream of fine bubbles rising to the top with a nice prickly effervescence rush in the finish. Underneath the aromas of spicy cloves, orange peels, banana and coriander are mellow yeast notes that pleasantly linger on with a warm after finish. The subtle sweetness of the malt leaves the mouth salivating for more. If it really is the end of the world, I need another.
RAINHARD BREWING ASYSTOLE IIPA TORONTO, CANADA 8.5% ABV ($8.95/650 ML) This imperial IPA is anything but a standstill. Asystole is aggressively hopped and full of life! Simcoe, Centennial and Amarillo hops are added 6 times throughout the boil and then it’s double dry hopped in the fermenters. Although the aroma has a resinous, pine and citrus bouquet, this is much more than a smack-you-in-the-face-with-a-bag-of-hops ale. An East Coast style IIPA, it balances out the hop bombs with the malty flavours of biscuit, honey and caramel. At 8.5% ABV, this beer is dangerously drinkable. One too many and your heart may flatline. Consider yourself warned.
LES TROIS MOUSQUETAIRES GRAND CUVÉE AMERICAN BARLEY WINE QUEBEC, CANADA 10% ABV ($12.50) If you are a hophead like me, then this is the barley wine for you. This American barley wine is much more hop-forward than its English counterparts. Brown sugar, caramel and biscuit integrate 38 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
together with aromatic, juicy tropical hop notes of citrus, pine tree and resin. A big melting pot of flavours. The hop punch provides a welcoming level of hoppy bitterness to accompany the thick and syrupy orchard-fruit sweetness. Boozy; sweetens considerably as it warms. Don’t age the barley wine for too long. You need the fresh hops to balance out the cloying sweetness. Try it with a spicy andouille sausage gumbo. Alternatively, it would go great with a chocolate cheesecake. The hops would cut the richness of the cake. Think of this as IIPA’s maltier and boozier cousin. Recommended for all hopheads.
RAINHARD BREWING HEARTS COLLIDE PROPELLER COFFEE EDITION RUSSIAN IMPERIAL STOUT TORONTO, CANADA 9% ABV ($8.95/650 ML) When 2 hearts collide, love conquers every time. The love story of Rainhard Brewery and Propeller Coffee (a local Toronto coffeehouse and roaster) begins by infusing cold brew coffee into the beer, which contains 9 different types of malts. The resulting love child is a luscious and velvety brew packed with rich roasted coffee and cocoa notes that are rounded out by the assertive bitterness of the Warrior and Centennial hops. Not as boozy as the 9% ABV would imply. Keep an eye out on your heart, or in this case Rainhard’s experimental beer: “we will use the base beer every year to try something new; this year we focus on coffee, next year, we will collaborate with another local product and infuse it into the beer.” Rainhard explains. What a beautiful love story.
BELLWOODS BREWERY 3 MINUTES TO MIDNIGHT IMPERIAL STOUT AGED IN COGNAC BARRELS TORONTO, CANADA (PRICE UNAVAILABLE) Bellwoods Brewery, known for creating delicious finicky-to-make Belgian-style beers offers this stupendously delicious black forest cake in a bottle. This limited release is part of their extensive barrel-aging program. Pleasant tartness from the cherries mingles with plum, prune and dark chocolate, complementing the lingering bitterness of the roasted malts and oak. The cognac presence is evident, with notes of dried apples, fall spices, and subtle butterscotch. Sip on this with a slice of black forest cake. Cherries, chocolate, cognac, I’m in love as this thick and viscous elixir hugs the tongue with each sip.
BLACK OAK BREWERY EPIPHANY 2 IMPERIAL PILSNER ETOBICOKE, CANADA ($8.95/650 ML) Not ready to swap in your pilsner for a heartier brew? This beer will transition you from summer to fall, one sip at a time. Part of the Epiphany series, this is a new initiative from Black Oak’s experimental brews. Aroma of subtle cereal notes, bready malt, floral hops and a bit of spiciness. This is not your dad’s watery pilsner. This unfiltered pilsner starts with a sweet biscuit malt base and ends with a mild grassy and peppery finish. Although more robust than a standard pilsner as a result of the imperial heaviness and caramel sweetness, the alcohol heat is well hidden and goes down dangerously smooth. There may be a chill in the air, but don’t put away the barbecue grill just yet. This jacked up pils would complement a grilled bison burger perfectly. Recommended for those who are still in denial that summer is really over.
Alex Ganivet-Boileau, brewmaster at Les Trois Mousquetaires can brew a sessionable beer with the most flavour and the least alcohol? On the other spectrum, who can brew a high ABV beer that is hop forward yet well balanced?” High ABV beers are commonly referred to as “high-octane,” and when it comes to beer, high-octane refers to high gravity beers, which is based on the difference between the original gravity (how much sugar is in the beer before fermentation) and the final gravity (how much sugar is left over after fermentation). A beer with a lower final gravity tends to be drier and crisper. Conversely, a higher final gravity beer will be sweeter and have a malt backbone. (A nice tidbit of info to flaunt before your beer geek friends!) So the $64,000 question: what ABV percentage is considered high-octane? There is no concrete definition. In fact, it is culturally dependent and depends on where you live. For example, if you are at a pub in England, most of the beers are very sessionable, — a fancy word for a pint of beer that is suitable for a lengthy drinking session — clocking in between four to five percent ABV. In other words, between four to five percent of your 20-ounce pint glass is pure alcohol (or ethanol for you science nerds out there). Low in alcohol (three to five percent ABV), sessionable beers can be consumed in large quantities, within a reasonable period without getting intoxicated. (Yes, you can drink and enjoy beer without getting drunk!) It is suggested that the term “session” originated during World War I in England. Munitions workers were allotted two allowable drinking periods or “sessions” between shifts and many of them spent those breaks in their local watering holes. Workers would be able to enjoy an adequate amount of quaffable lighter beers and return to the factory without getting inebriated.
Considering the term’s origins, the British view any beer greater than five percent ABV to be high-octane. Moreover, beer in the UK is taxed based on alcohol content, creating a reason for brewers and drinkers to avoid the higher potency styles found in other countries. (For example, RateBeer. com, a website dedicated for beer enthusiasts all over the world, considers beers with seven percent ABV to be the starting point for high-octane beers.) Rainhard defines high-octane brews in terms of style. “In my opinion, eightpoint-five percent ABV for IIPA (double IPA), and nine percent for stouts is the threshold,” he explains. Okay, what about from the Canadian government’s perspective? Please inspect the beer bottle in your hand. If you don’t have one in your hand, go to the nearest fridge and fetch one (the bottle will serve as a visual aid and a reward for reading). Beer in Canada is labelled according to guidelines by the Canadian Food Inspection Agency. If the label simply says “beer,” it contains between four-point-one percent and five-point-five percent ABV. “Strong beer” is used when the alcohol content is greater than five-point-six percent and “extra strong beer” is at eight-point-six percent ABV or higher. “Double,” “triple” and “quadruple” are all more or less self explanatory. Sometimes alcohol percentages can be implied in the name of the beer (Delirium Tremens anyone?) One labelling term that’s being used with increasing frequency worldwide is “imperial.” The term “imperial” dates back to the 1700s when beer (usually stout) was brewed in England and then shipped to the imperial court of Russia. Over the centuries, brewers started using “imperial” to denote a style of beer that is heftier, hoppier and more sophisticated than the traditional versions of the beers that inspired them. Simply put, if you see “imperial” on anything, be warned
that these beers pack a bit of a kick. If you enjoy the classic style (IPA, stout), more than likely you will enjoy the more intense, revved up imperialized version as well. For some, the amount of “bang” in the beer is a deciding purchasing factor. For others, like me, seasonality and food matching count for more. So if we are going to be drinking and eating with the seasons, how do we pair these high gravity beers with food? As the days get shorter, ‘tis the season for pitch-black imperial stouts, robust barley wines and chewy double IPAs. Sure, these strong beers are excellent for “après-ski” and shovelling breaks, but they are also very versatile in the food-pairing department. Since some of these high gravity beers share the characteristics of port, sherry, cognac and other after dinner tipples, they can be served in their place. Or, if you are anything like me, an imperial stout or barley wine can actually be liquid dessert. Speaking of dessert, this Thanksgiving try a caramel-y barley wine with your pumpkin pie. For an even more decadent treat, nibble on a piece of pungent blue cheese while sipping barley wine from a snifter. The buttery creaminess of the cheese intermingles with the thick, viscous elixir enhancing both the cheese and the beer. For a grown-up version of an ice cream float, replace the root beer with an imperial stout. The incredibly rich, deep chocolate and coffee notes are in harmony with the creamy vanilla ice cream. When pairing high gravity imperial IPAs with food, focus on the three dominant flavours in the beer. Hoppiness, bitterness and caramel. Hop flavours complements spices and light fruits. Bitterness has a cooling effect and it amplifies salty and umami flavours, meaning it works great with curries and other spicy foods. When the leaves start to turn from green to orange, my mug of suds changes from a sessionable IPA to an imperial IPA; or from an English bitter to a barrel-aged quad; a Berliner Weisse to a barley wine. Just as my shorts and sundresses are packed away, to be replaced by jeans and cosy sweaters, the beer equivalents of “The Boys of Summer” are sent on their way, their light, golden tans and simple character supplanted by the darker, spicier, stronger and more mysterious high-octane brews of winter. × SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 39
HARD PRESSED by Lisa Hoekstra
As the leaves turn colour and the weather takes on the crisp bite of fall, orchards across the country are preparing the fresh, tart and sweet treats we’ve all grown up loving — apple pie, applesauce, apple butter and, best of all, apple cider. Wait, isn’t that alcoholic?
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NO, NOT ALWAYS. The name for the rich, flavourful, non-al-
coholic apple beverage changes depending on where you are in Canada. “If you are in eastern Canada or eastern US, then everybody refers to fresh pressed juice as cider — non-alcoholic, fresh pressed juice with no additives,” explains Tom Davison of Davison Orchards in the Okanagan. “In western Canada, and even western US, as soon as you talk about cider, it’s always assumed to be alcoholic … Somebody always comes to the farm and asks for ‘cider,’ and I always make a joke — which part of Ontario are you from?” Cider, by itself, and hard cider are usually reserved in the industry for the alcoholic beverage that feels like sucking on a bubbly apple. But referring to apple cider as apple juice can be confusing too. “The problem with ‘apple juice’ is that it’s a pretty big umbrella,” says Davison.” “Apple juice is pasteurized and filtered,” explain Matthew Estabrooks and Heather Rhymes of Gagetown Fruit Farm in New Brunswick. “Fresh apple cider is just fresh squeezed apples, we don’t pasteurize ours — so it just goes in the bottle and then to market.” “The bottom line is what we’re doing is a fresh pressed product right off the trees with no additives,” says Davison. “Actually, ‘fresh juice’ is probably the clearest way to define it.” When you go to the grocery store or supermarket and pick up a bottle of apple juice, the liquid contents have been pasteurized to give it a longer shelf life, sugar and other additives have been thrown in to make it taste “better,” and the end result is a beverage that is just a sad shade of true, fresh apple juice. Canadian food laws require cider sold commercially to be pasteurized, which adds a bit of a conundrum to the definition of apple juice/cider. If you want the true juice, visit your local orchard and ask for fresh pressed apple juice/cider — but prepare your taste buds, as the experience is nothing like commercially sold apple juice. “People say ‘oh, the juice is so strong, I feel like I should water it down’ and that’s so hard to hear,” says Davison of his apple juice. “It’s just that people aren’t used to all the flavour.” The flavour is one of the reasons why apple cider has the popularity it does across Canada. I’m sure everyone remembers drinking it in the fall as a kid, the slightly grainy texture playing on the tongue as the intense apple flavour overwhelms. This intense flavour isn’t the result of just one apple variety being pressed into juice form. Instead, it’s a blend of multiple varieties. “When we’re making juice or cider, one of the keys is the blend and the different varieties that we have,” says Davison. He oversees the farming, produce packing and apple juice production at Davison Orchards and has first-hand experience with choosing varieties for his blends. “There are certain varieties that I know are quite consistent in what they will bring to the juice. Those ones I use as my base varieties and then I add to that base to achieve the desired taste. “There are some that are very common varieties — Golden Delicious is really good in juice — while there are also uncommon ones, like Arlet. Arlet is really great as a juice. It’s my favourite. We’re one of the only ones around here that grow it.” Estabrooks and Rhymes explain that the apples they use in their apple cider blends depend on where they are in the season. “The earlier apples produce a cider that is more tart and as the apples get sweeter in the later varieties, the cider gets sweeter. We always do a blend for fresh cider as each apple has
its own little flavour profile; we try and get a nice blend of apple-y goodness: tart and sweet.” “Every growing season is a little different and that affects the sugar content and acid content in the fruit,” agrees Davison. “Every year you’re playing around with the combinations to get the flavour you want. And the balance — if you use too many sweet apples, the sweetness overtakes the flavour. You’re really looking at the balance to get the best quality fruit juice.” MAKING APPLE CIDER IS MUCH LIKE MAKING WINE OR BEER. The producer needs to have a good understanding of how
the climate and growing season will affect the fruits’ flavour profile, they need to understand how these flavour profiles will interact with each other, and most of all, they need to know how to combine it in such a way that the end result will be balanced and enjoyable. At Gagetown Fruit Farm, they use this nifty process: “Keep eating apples to check flavour, then drink the juice after pressing. The growing season is different year to year, which means the flavour of the apples might vary a little.” As you’ve probably noticed, the process starts with the apples. “We want to have a premium product, so we use very high quality apples,” says Davison. “You can’t make great apple juice out of so-so apples — you have to start high quality … Everything is fresh picked.” Over at Gagetown Fruit Farms, they have a similar standard. “We don’t use windfall apples in our juice, we only use treepicked — we grade through the fresh eating apples and anything that isn’t up to standard for that (they mainly just have branch rub marks, or aren’t as red as they should be), we use in juice. It’s an efficient system for us.” Once you have your apples, you can start the juicing process. “The apples go through a grinder and then into a press that has a big air bladder in the centre,” state Estabrooks and Rhymes. “The bladder fills up with air and presses the apple pulp.” Davison explains the full process he uses: “Basically the apples come in. The first thing is that they’re washed. Then they go through a grinder, which grinds them into fairly large chunks so that when they’re pressed they explode with juice and then they go into the press and under the UV light pasteurizer and bottled right from there. No filtering.” At Davison Orchards, they use the UV light pasteurizer instead of the typical heat pasteurization to ensure the juice is as safe as possible. “We use a cold pressing technique — the apple juice is never heated … As soon as you heat it to pasteurize, you’ve extended the shelf life, but you’ve destroyed all the great things that make it juice.” Once the pressing is complete, the juice is jugged — nothing added, not even sugar — and the apple cider is ready. “We add nothing to the fresh cider, it is pure apple-ness,” state Estabrooks and Rhymes. “Then is gets bottled and labelled.” In addition to apple cider, the process has a second by-product: pulp. “After you’ve pressed it out, you have the skins and the stems. It’s quite dry,” explains Davison. “It’s not really for human consumption; best for animals. We have a friend who owns cattle and they’re very excited to get the pulp. They haul it away in the fall and we get manure in the spring.” At Gagetown Fruit Farms, the pulp “goes to the compost pile or a little bit to the cows and sheep.” SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 41
Flavour of the Day
Here’s your basic guide for apple flavour — remember that the final sweetness or tartness levels will change from season to season, so taste and experiment to find your perfect blend.
TART
make it at home
Have a bushel of apples and want to add some variety to your beverage selection? Try making some apple cider yourself. The best part is you can call it whatever you want — apple juice, apple cider, fresh-pressed cider or whatever else floats your boat!
STEP 1 – SELECT YOUR APPLES
Put together 1/3 bushel of apples, either of a single variety or a blend (like the pros). If you have more of a sweet tooth, use a 3:1 ratio — 3 parts sweeter apples to 1 part tart apples; medium sweetness is 2:1 and mouth-puckering tartness is 1:1. Remember to use apples that you would eat — they can be misshapen and scratched, but avoid bruised or mushy apples, as those will lower the quality of your juice.
STEP 2 – PREPARE YOUR APPLES
Wash them, and then quarter them, leaving the skin and seeds in place.
STEP 3 – MAKE APPLE MUSH
Put the apples in a food processor and purée them until they look like applesauce. Don’t worry about the seeds and other suspicious bits.
STEP 4 – STRAIN IT OUT
Strain the pulp and seeds out of the apple mush by running it through a cheesecloth, fine-mesh sieve or chinois sieve held over a bowl or wide-mouthed jar. Using the back of a spoon, press the mixture through your straining tool of choice. Once the whole bushel has been strained, you can either restrain or move to step 5.
STEP 5 – REFRIGERATE AND ENJOY
Always keep your apple-cider-juice refrigerated (best kept at below 4°C). It will stay fresh for up to 2 weeks. To keep it longer, freeze it and thaw when company comes over so you can show them your apple talent. 42 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
Granny Smith – tart, tangy and very acidic; lemon notes perfect for blends Gala – mild, yet sweet and juicy. Watery with an astringent acetone aftertaste Mcintosh – rich, tangy, classic apple flavour; becomes sweeter as it ripens Mutsu (Crispin) – slightly astringent and aggressively tart; sweeter when cold Northern Spy – combines flavour of a sweet pear with a tart bite Winesap – spicy wine flavours. Sour; will make your mouth pucker
SWEET AND TART
Braeburn – sweet yet tart, almost caramelized flavour Empire – watery with balanced sweet and tart flavours Jonagold – full-flavoured, sweet and tart Macoun – perfect balance between sweet and tart with berry nuances Pink Lady – sweet, slightly tart, floral, fruity and slightly tropical Red Delicious – mild, slightly sweet and tart; watery Sunrise – great blend of sweet and tart SweeTango – not too sweet, not to tart; perfect apple flavour
SWEET
Honeycrisp – as sweet as honey (hence the name) Nicola – sweet, crisp and juicy Royal Gala – sweet and succulent Spartan – sweet, succulent and crunchy; slightly tart and crisp Opalescent – creamy, sweet and rich Cortland – thick skinned, floral, spicy, sweet and crisp Fortune – mild and sweet with a slight milky note Ginger Gold – sweet and slightly spicy
VERY SWEET
Ambrosia – crisp, sweet and aromatic – very sweet actually Arlet – crisp, juicy, quite honeyed and lightly perfumed Fuji – very sweet with earth and snap pea notes Golden Delicious – very sweet
If there aren’t any animals around to enjoy munching on the leftover apple parts, some cider makers use it as mulch. “I know some growers who put it in a spreader and spread it out on their land to break down organically,” mentions Davison. However, according to Davison, the pulp isn’t as efficient as a fertilizer as the manure he gets from his friend. Many Canadian orchards and farms are family affairs, passed down through the generations to the current owners. “Matt’s family has owned the farm since the early ‘70s (1973 I think), his parents (Greg and Marylou) retired and we decided to continue on,” states Rhymes. “We both have backgrounds in professional kitchens, so our version of Gagetown Fruit Farm reflects that — we have the freedom to grow it and then use it in fun applications, which was our goal.” Today’s intrepid farmers are changing with the times, modifying their ancestors’ traditions to include new ways of selling their produce. Ways that are slightly more profitable to their bottom line. “I’m third generation,” states Davison. “The first two generations grew apples and then hauled them to the packing house and the packing house would package and sell them. When my wife, Tamra, and I started back in the business some 35 years ago, the reality was the returns from the wholesale production weren’t really great. We changed the direction … to direct sales.” THESE CHANGES INCLUDE EXPANDING THEIR ORCHARDS TO INCLUDE NEW VARIETIES, EXPLORING GRAFTING AND FULFILLING CUSTOMER DEMANDS.
Gagetown Fruit Farm currently grows Vista Bella, Lobo, Jersey Mac, Melba, Paula Red, McIntosh, Cortland, Red Delicious and Golden Russet. “These were established before we arrived — apple trees take a while to start producing, so you need to either plan ahead or be patient!” say Estabrooks and Rhymes. “We have some Ambrosia, Cox Orange and Regal Gala on the cusp of being ready for a harvest (cross your fingers!).” “We recently grafted a few newer-to-us varieties,” mention Estabrooks and Rhymes. These new varieties include Honeycrisp, Sandow and Gingergold. “But these will also take two or three years to start any kind of fruiting. Varieties that we have planted and grafted were based on ones we’ve had in the past and enjoyed, or customer demand.” Davison Orchards also expanded their apple portfolio when Tom and Tamra took the reins. “As soon as we started growing for ourselves, we started grafting and expanding our varieties. We went from being a McIntosh grower to growing 25 varieties, as well as peaches and pears. We grow everything from watermelons to peas.” The addition of other fruit to their orchard’s produce selection was a necessity. “It’s a great area to grow apples,” says Davison. “But it’s a very expensive area so we have to maximize the returns. We are diversified to the point of insanity.” Diversifying production is common in the apple-growing industry. “We also have pears, plums and cherries in the orchard. The garden is usually full of fun stuff — most notably: coloured carrots, heirloom tomatoes, peppers and asparagus,” state Estabrooks and Rhymes. “In addition to outside bounty and our fresh cider, hard cider and wines, we also have a commercial kitchen in which we create pastries, soups, granola, shortbreads, pickles and preserves that we take to market. We really enjoy focusing on seasonal and local. We use our own produce and we support the other local producers as much as possible.” They also have goats, pigs, cows and other animals.
Patriarch Bob Davison
In fact, Tom and Tamra Davison promoted the idea of visiting the farm to see how your produce is grown before the “buying local” craze. “The concept was radical at the time,” Davison said with a chuckle. “I always encourage people wherever they’re from to buy local and get to know your local farmers. Go and see how things are being done, look for the cleanliness and all the things that should be there. If you can buy directly from the producer, that’s the best quality you can find. You should talk to your local farmer and ask them what they use and put in there. They’ll be happy to explain their products.” Selling at the market or from the orchard itself is only one of the ways orchard owners get a buzz going on their products. While Gagetown Fruit Farms has a commercial kitchen and market-bound baked goods, Davison Orchards has a small café located in a farmhouse circa the 1940s. “We converted that to a little coffee shop so we can sell our pies. All the fresh vegetables go into soup, so we’ve got a bit going on,” says Davison. “We also have preserves … our baking staff makes preserves six months of the year. We’re really into anything we can do to market our crops.” This includes tasting events. After all, how will you know which apples you like in your cider blend if you haven’t tried them all! “We do tasting events to find out what’s popular. And we do tasting events with the juice as well,” states Davison. “As soon as we start picking our apples, we are doing tastings all the time. Most of our varieties have a following. People come in and it’s almost like a wine tasting. People become their own apple connoisseurs and are really proud of it.” So get out there, grab an apple, or two … or three … and munch away until you find the varieties you like. Then try your hand at making a batch of fresh apple cider at home — you’ll enjoy the experience and maybe just develop a deeper appreciation for the hard-working men and women at Canada’s orchards! × SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 43
44 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
WHERE THERE’S SMOKE by Duncan Holmes
SMOKED MEAT, HUH? On the night before travelling on the
sleek 310K-an-hour AVE train from Madrid to Cadiz, we stayed in an unpretentious little hotel a couple of blocks from the sprawling Atocha station. Like most areas around railway stations, it was a bit unkempt, but friendly enough for a walk in the dark in search of a coffee. We found coffee and sipped it with a tableful of tapas, shared with a couple of señoras de la calle, who stopped in for a break. The best part of the walk was not all of this, but the discovery of one of Madrid’s Museos del Jamón. Yep, museums full of musty, smoked ham. No Goyas, Dalís or El Grecos in this museum. Just walls, countertops and showcases loaded deep with beautiful smoked hams from all over Spain. What a sight, and in due course, what delicious tastes. Some of the hams at the Museo del Jamón were as black as night. The most expensive was jamón ibérico de bellota, a luxury of taste from a free-range black pig that dines on nothing but acorns and herbs as it leads a free-range life in forests of oak. Then, as I discovered, it is slaughtered and the meat is cured with smoke and love for three years, sometimes four. It’s worth the 10 or so euros for 100 grams. We had some, of course. So did the mangy, half-starved hound outside the door. My sympathetic partner begged for some scraps and got them, and the appreciative dog wagged his Spanish tail as we wandered back to the hotel. Spain salutes smoked meat with museums in recognition of an industry. But notwithstanding the hams of Spain, the juicy smoked brisket sandwiches of the great delis in Montreal, and elsewhere, are right up there as iconic items of Canadian taste. Sit down to a large-plate seasoned, marinated, smoked sandwich at Schwartz’s on Saint-Laurent and you’re hooked forever. Maybe you’ll be prompted to walk a labyrinth of brands and prices to purchase a smoker of your own. It was a long, long time ago that smoked meat first became part of mankind’s yummy diet. Research is scarce, but my guess would be that in one distant wildfire some poor critter — pig or other — lost its life in embers that could have glowed for days, the leftovers were smoke-cured. Not only were they partly eaten and enjoyed at that stage, but the remainders were lugged back to the cave and because the smoke had preserved the flesh, it lasted to be enjoyed again and again in the season ahead.
Over time, clever evolutionaries didn’t wait for wildfires. As the First Nations people do with salmon, they threaded raw flesh onto sharpened canes and set them over smoking pits. In time, the flesh was dehydrated and smoke-cooked. By doing so, it was preserved. Eventually smoke ovens came along. The flesh of all kinds — fish, birds and beasts — were smoked, sometimes for days. The chips of exotic flora — hickory among them — were added to enrich the flavour. Scoured intestines were stuffed with ground meat to make sausages and these too were smoked. The world had all kinds of great tastes that today are hot. Indian candy? What a treat. Beef jerky? Of course. Alaska Black Cod? Even smoked vegetables for vegetarians and vegans. This is where we find — on Vancouver’s always-exciting Granville Island, a loosely defined patch of previous and current industrial land in the middle of everything — the fifth-generation sausage stuffer John van der Lieck, who holds sway and wins fans exponentially at his Oyama Sausage Company. Only John knows the number for sure, but about 15 percent of his deliciously tempting array is smoked in a smokehouse in the south end of the city. John is a guy who speaks with passion about food simplicity and flavour, reflected always in the sausages and other meats that he sells and which he has sold at the market for 14 years. Of course, he has supermarket needs from time to time, but clearly indicates that the whole food retailing industry has shelf-lifed, artificially coloured and flavoured itself to death. Give him stumps of hardwood alder and maple, some well-chosen meats and seasonings that matter and he’ll turn you out chorizo to die for. More about simplicity? He told of a dinner he made that was duck confit, served with red cabbage liberally dabbed with butter. “Know what people talked about later? The cabbage. That’s the kind of thinking that goes into a smoky, or any other Oyama sausage.” Smoking is for just about all creatures. I’ve smoked rainbow trout in BC’s Cariboo in a home-fashioned oven loaned by a fellow fisher. What a treat to enjoy rainbows a season later. Check the web and you’ll find all kinds of smokers, some big enough for a Christmas turkey and more. Prices are all over the map. A foodie friend has an Emson smoker the size of a pressure cooker and uses it often in his Kitsilano apartment. Bradley is a name big in the smoker business. Smokers are at all of the big name stores. You’ll be entering a whole new world, which is not for the impatient or the faint of heart, so good luck. SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 45
INDIAN CANDY
This recipe, gleaned from Food.com, presumes that you have a smoker. Of several recipes, it appears to be the simplest for you to make not exactly candy, but smoked and sweet salmon bits that are chewy and delicious.
1 2 2 1 3/4 1/4
cup pickling salt l water cups dark row sugar cup maple syrup Salmon, cleaned and cut into 1/2-inch strips cup honey cup water
MAPLE-MARINATED PORK TENDERLOIN
This recipe from the Bradley smoker site presumes that you have a smoker. A different take on an old favourite.
1 pork tenderloin, silver skin and fat removed
MARINADE
4 2 1/2 1 1/2 1
cloves garlic, minced tbsp Dijon mustard cup maple syrup tsp salt tsp pepper tbsp vegetable oil
1. Mix together the water, salt, sugar and syrup, and stir until all ingredients are dissolved. Add salmon and brine for 24 hours. 2. Remove fish and smoke anywhere from 8 hours to 1 1/2 days, depending on your smoker. Use the 3/4 cup honey mixed with the 1/4 cup water for basting. 3. Don’t over smoke or you’re going to have jerky. Apple and cherry woods are great for this recipe.
1. Whisk together ingredients for marinade. Place tenderloin and marinade ingredients in a freezer bag and allow to marinate overnight in the fridge. 2. Remove tenderloin from marinade. Smoke for 2 1/2 to 3 hours in preheated smoker at 225°F with maple bisquettes. Remove from smoker once an internal temperature of 160°F is reached.
SMOKED ALASKAN BLACK COD WITH HOISIN AND GINGER SAUCES
This recipe is attributed to Chef Paul Shufelt who writes that it will require some skill, special equipment and ingredients, and a lot of patience. You can find more at chefpaulshufelt.com
You won’t be doing it yourself, but this smoked fish has a gentle buttery taste and a really melt-in-your-mouth texture. Gently steam a fillet or two, or pair it with these two distinctive tastes. It’s the best of seafood. And it’s also sustainable.
1/2 1/4 1 1/2 1 1/2 1 1 1/4 2 1/4 1 4
cup soy sauce cup unseasoned rice vinegar tbsp fresh ginger, peeled and minced tbsp green onions, chopped tbsp honey large garlic clove, minced cup hoisin sauce tsp hot chili paste tbsp vegetable oil Alaskan black cod fillets (approx. 200 g each) Steamed rice
1. A day ahead, whisk first 6 ingredients in small bowl. Preheat
oven to 450°F. 2. Stir hoisin and chili paste in another small bowl. Heat oil in heavy, large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. 3. Add cod, skin side up. Cook 2 minutes, then turn cod over. Spoon hoisin mixture over fillets, dividing equally. 4. Transfer to oven and bake until fish is just opaque in centre, about 5 minutes. Place one fillet in each of 4 shallow soup bowls. 5. Spoon ginger sauce around fish and serve with steamed rice.
46 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
MONTREAL SMOKED MEAT
1 brisket (3 to 5 lbs) Fresh rye bread (the more it smells like coriander the better!) Mustard (yellow, Dijon, hot; use your favourite) BRINE
4 180 60 60 75 30
l water g kosher salt g curing salt #1 g dextrose g pickling spice g Montreal steak spice
RUB FOR SMOKING
45 g pickling spice 30 g Montreal steak spice
1. Combine the water and spices, stir. Rinse brisket off to remove any and all blood. 2. Place brisket in brine, fat side down (if cooking more than one brisket, go meat against meat and fat against fat). Pour the brine over the brisket and ensure it is fully submerged. 3. Cover with plastic wrap and place in fridge, for up to 60 hours, but 48 should suffice. Once brined, remove from liquid, pat dry. Rub with spice mix. 4. Fire up the smoker and get a good smoke going. Place the meat and smoke for 2 hours, feeding the chips as necessary. Remove from the smoker and place in a pan with 2 cups of water. 5. Cover with aluminium foil and place in a 250˚F oven for 3 hours. Remove from the oven, allow to rest 5 minutes. Slice, pile high on rye bread and enjoy!
MONTREAL SMOKED MEAT
SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 47
BOUQUET GARNI BY NANCY JOHNSON
LOVIN’ MY OVEN
MY OVEN BROKE. Did you hear me? MY OVEN BROKE! Yes, I’m
shouting and I apologize. But this is a setback of major proportions. You see, some women run marathons. Others scrapbook, grow roses, play bocce ball, turn pottery, crochet, knit or sew their own dresses. Me? I cook. That’s what I do. I cook, I bake, I broil, I roast, I braise and occasionally I burn. I’m a mad scientist; the kitchen is my lab. I experiment with new foods, techniques, tips, trends and hacks so that I might share my culinary knowledge in writing. But here are the sad facts: Although the stovetop is still in working condition, my beloved oven is defunct, finished, kaput, pushing up daisies, dead. You might ask the obvious question, as my always-practical beau Ron did: Why not just call for service? Oh, but you see, my friend, it’s much more complicated than that. My stove is a standard-issue-run-of-themill-all-white-electric model that came with my condo. It’s not even self-cleaning, for Pete’s sake. I’d like to explore my options. So what will it be? Stainless steel? Five-burner? Double oven? Convection? Stovetop griddle? What about the other outdated appliances in my kitchen? Why, I’ll replace them, of course! And if I’m installing all new stainless steel appliances, shouldn’t I add granite countertops, a tumbled-marble backsplash and hardwood flooring? If I’m doing all that — um — have I thought about how l will pay for it? These are the questions I will ponder for at least a few weeks before I call for service on that old rattletrap standard-issue oven. But a girl can dream, can’t she? Meanwhile, here are the recipes I created on my working stovetop. Bon appétit!
48 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
× Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on quench.me/recipes/
STEAMED MUSSELS WITH WHITE WINE
SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE Steamed mussels are my go-to for a special dinner while my oven awaits repair. Serve this dish with lots of freshly baked bread — I make mine in the bread machine. Seriously, who needs an oven?
5 4 5 2 1 4
tbsp butter shallots, minced cloves garlic, minced cups dry white wine bay leaf lb mussels, scrubbed and debearded Minced fresh parsley, for garnish
1. In a Dutch oven, melt 2 tbsp of butter over medium heat. Add
the shallots and cook until softened, about 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook 1 minute. 2. Add the wine and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer 3 minutes. Increase heat to high and add mussels. 3. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mussels open, about 7 to 9 minutes. Discard any that don’t open. 4. Transfer mussels to serving bowl. Over low heat, whisk remaining butter into broth. Pour broth over mussels. Garnish with parsley. MATCH: Enjoy with a California Sauvignon Blanc.
SPIRALIZED ZUCCHINI WITH ONIONS, PEPPERS AND GARLIC
SERVES 4 My son bought me a spiral vegetable slicer for my birthday and it is lots of fun to use. It easily turns vegetables into slender curlicues, as thick or as thin as you like. My first venture was this dish — chili-seasoned caramelized vegetables that I wrapped in whole wheat tortillas along with lettuce, diced tomatoes and shredded cheese. You can add the seasoning of your choice (try Italian or Greek) and other vegetables such as spiral-cut carrots, sweet potato or eggplant. For the record, I sliced the onion and pepper with a knife since they aren’t particularly suited for spiral slicing.
1 2 1 1 8 1 3
tbsp butter tbsp olive oil onion, sliced large sweet red pepper, sliced cloves garlic, peeled and left whole tsp chipotle chili powder (or seasoning of your choice) Salt and pepper, to taste zucchini, trimmed and cut into thick spirals
1. In a large skillet, melt butter with olive oil. Add onion, red pepper and garlic. Cook over low heat until onion, pepper and garlic are softened and onion is golden, about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally and adding a tsp or two of water, as needed. 2. Add chili powder, salt, pepper and zucchini spirals and cook 10 minutes longer or until zucchini is softened, gently stirring occasionally. 3. Serve in tortillas or over buttered rice or orzo. MATCH: Serve with Mexican beer.
STEAK AU POIVRE
Usually I’m not fond of a strong black pepper flavour, but in this case the results are delicious. I use tenderloin (filet mignon) steaks, but you can easily substitute your favourite steak with excellent results.
1 4 2 1/4 1/4 1/2 1
tbsp freshly ground black pepper beef tenderloin steaks, each 1-inch thick tbsp butter cup brandy cup beef broth cup heavy whipping cream tsp Dijon mustard
1. Press pepper onto both sides of the steaks (I use the flat side of a carving knife to pound it in.) 2. In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add steaks and cook until medium rare, about 6 minutes per side. Transfer steaks to serving platter. 3. Stir brandy and beef broth into pan drippings in skillet, scraping up the browned bits. Stir in heavy whipping cream and mustard. Bring to a boil. 4. Lower heat and simmer 6 minutes or until mixture is reduced to 1/2 cup. Spoon sauce over steak. MATCH: This would be awesome with a Sassicaia, but if I could afford Sassicaia, I could afford a new kitchen. Open a Toscana IGT and enjoy.
ORANGE PORK WITH SNOW PEAS AND CASHEWS
SERVES 4 This recipe isn’t a science — add whatever you have on hand such as chopped onion, garlic, mushrooms, broccoli florets, bamboo shoots or water chestnuts. Use unsalted peanuts or fried chow mein noodles instead of the cashews. You will need about 1 pound of pork. If the pork tenderloin is large, freeze what you don’t need for another recipe.
1/2 1/4 2 1 1 1 1 2 1/2
cup orange juice cup orange marmalade tbsp low-sodium soy sauce tbsp cornstarch tsp fresh ginger, grated tbsp peanut or canola oil (or more as needed) pork tenderloin, thinly sliced cups fresh snow peas, trimmed cup unsalted cashew pieces Hot cooked jasmine rice
1. In a small bowl, stir together orange juice, marmalade, soy sauce, cornstarch and ginger. 2. Heat oil in wok or large skillet. Add pork in batches (do not crowd.) Stir-fry about 3 minutes or until juices run clear. Repeat as needed. 3. Return all pork to pan. Add snow peas. Cook 1 minute. Make a well in centre of wok by pushing all ingredients to the sides. Stir sauce into well. 4. Cook and stir until thickened and bubbly. Mix sauce with pork mixture. Cook 2 minutes to heat through. 5. Add cashew pieces. Serve over jasmine rice. MATCH: Serve with Ontario Pinot Gris. × SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 49
NOTED WHITLEY NEILL GIN, ENGLAND ($45/700 ML)
93 K1 SAUVIGNON BLANC 2013, ADELAIDE HILLS, AUSTRALIA ($25.67)
Independent distiller Johnny Neill, a descendent of Thomas Greenall, is a fourth generation gin maker. Made in England but inspired by Africa, much of its bright, citrusy character comes from exotic baobab and physalis (Cape Gooseberry) fruit. Smooth and creamy with assertive juniper and bursts of fresh-squeezed citrus. Try this steal of a spirit in a G&T. (SP)
A blend of 60% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon all from the estate’s Sundial Vineyard on the Black Sage Bench. A beautiful nose of black cherries, cassis, currants, barrel spices, earth and cedar. On the palate, this red blend displays a rich broth of bold dark fruits, kirsch, earth, firm tannins and enticing spice notes. (RV)
Clear medium-deep lemon yellow. Interesting medium-intensity nose of gooseberry, lemon, orange blossom, pineapple, even a bit of ground coriander. Medium-bodied with good acidity and a long finish. Tastes of pineapple, lime, lemon and a bit of lychee. Complex and elegant, an SB to be savoured, not quaffed. Drink soon. (RL)*
90 WASHINGTON HILLS LATE HARVEST RIESLING 2013, WASHINGTON STATE, UNITED STATES ($18.95)
Tasted blind, I would have taken this for an Auslese from the Rheingau. Straw-coloured with nose of petrol, honey and grapefruit. Light- to medium-bodied, sweet peach and grapefruit flavours with enough acidity to balance, ending on a white chocolate note. (TA)
90 DEMORGENZON RESERVE CHENIN BLANC 2011, STELLENBOSCH, SOUTH AFRICA ($29.95)
Opulent, this Chenin serves up toast, sweet apple, smoke, cream, lilac, spice and a slight light tropical edge. Full-bodied with a ying-yang of cream and acid that carry the long finish. Pair with panseared halibut. (ES)
50 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
92 TIME MERITAGE RED 2012, OKANAGAN ($30)
PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND BREWING COMPANY GAHAN ISLAND RED, PEI ($14.75/330 ML, 4-PACK)
Irish Red Ale is an amorphous beer style beloved by Maritimers: toasty and sweet with firm bitterness, it’s a style that’s rare in the rest of Canada. This one pours a sparkling, clear copper with a delicate digestive biscuit and caramel nose — those flavours follow into the sip balanced by light tobacco notes and firm bitterness. Serve with any caramelized dishes or try fish ‘n’ chips for some East Coast flavour. (CL)
91 UNSWORTH ROSÉ 2014, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($19)
Nicely balanced, delicious expression of Pinot Noir with integrated 10% neutral oak: cranberry, cherry with apple and citrus background and lingering acidity. Best of Class ACWC. (TP)
91 MCWATTERS COLLECTION MERITAGE 2012, OKANAGAN ($25)
A blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc from Harry McWatters’ vineyards on the Black Sage Bench. It has a lovely nose of blackberries, plums, cassis, a touch of raspberry-cherry and a range of spice. On the palate, there is bountiful fruit, including cassis, blackberry, cherries and a touch of earthiness in a balanced attack of oak, tannin and spice. Good length through the finish. (RV)
93 VIETTI BAROLO BRUNATE 2011, PIEDMONT ($150)
From a warm vintage comes this dark-coloured Barolo, which is stacked full of cherry, plum, vanilla, earth, liquorice, rose, leather and dried earth. Full bodied with grippy tannins and a superb finale, this wine still needs 3 to 4 years in the bottle and should be emjoyed in the subsequent two decades. (ES)
× Find a collection of tasting notes for wine, beer and spirits at quench.me/notes/
Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category. Our scores are based on the wine's quality as well as price point. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Carefully study the commentaries to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Sarah Parniak, Crystal Luxmore, Treve Ring, Tim Pawsey and Jonathan Smithe. QUENCH USES THE 100-POINT SCALE 95-100 = Exceptional 90-94 = Excellent 85-89 = Very good
SPARKLING 90 TAWSE WINERY SPARK LIMESTONE RIDGE SPARKLING RIESLING 2013, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($20)
The second vintage of the Limestone Ridge Vineyard Riesling Spark impresses instantly with its limey, green apple and light petrol whiff. The dry, crisp palate dances with focus and drive — all high-toned and Riesling-marked, with pure lime, lemon zest and abundant minerality. Lively and refreshing; positively demands pairing with oysters or salty snacks. (TR)
90 DOMAINE DES RONCES CRÉMANT DU JURA AOC 2011, JURA ($25)
This traditional-method Chardonnay bubbly is bone-dry with rapier-like acidity and a delicate mousse, so it’s very appetizing as an apéritif. Lemon, white flowers and peach aromas, with clean citrus and blanched almond flavours. Long minerally finish with ginger notes. Pure refreshment. (HH)
89 MONZIO COMPAGNONI BRUT 2009, FRANCIACORTA, LOMBARDIA ($22)
Pale yellow. White peach, fresh bread and a delicate note of mushroom. Nice round mouthfeel, dry without being extra-dry.
80-84 = Good 75-79 = Acceptable 70 & under = Below average *Available through wine clubs
Intense, pleasant fruity taste; acidity is a bit shy for a sparkling wine. Drinks well right now so don’t wait. (GBQc)
and citrus notes on the finish. A stylish example of Clare Valley Riesling. Pour a glass and dream of summer. (SW)
89 HENRY OF PELHAM CUVÉE CATHARINE BRUT NV, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($30)
89 THORN-CLARKE PINOT NOIR/ CHARDONNAY BRUT RESERVE SPARKLING WINE, EDEN VALLEY, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($16.95)
Henry of Pelham Family Estate has been owned and operated by the Speck family since 1988, but their connections to the land reach back far further than that. The winery was founded by brothers Paul, Matthew and Daniel Speck on the limestone bench land that was deeded to their great-great-greatgrandfather, Henry Smith, in 1794. This traditional method bubble shows dough, subtle wet stone, apple, citrus, playdough and nougat notes, with a fairly intense hazelnut paste and delicate Meyer lemon jockeying on the medium-bodied palate. (TR)
WHITE AUSTRALIA 90 KILIKANOON KILLERMAN’S RUN RIESLING 2012, CLARE VALLEY, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($19.99)
Shows classic aromatic Riesling varietal lime, floral, mineral and a light whiff of petrol. Lemon and lime citrus flavours fill the mouth together with zingy acidity, great mineral grip, and lingering floral
Don’t miss this great-value bubbly. Pale pink-gold in colour; a nose of cherries with a floral grace note. Medium-bodied, dry, easy-drinking; creamy on the palate with a sour cherry flavour. (TA)
88 MCGUIGAN EXPRESSIONS PINOT GRIGIO 2013, VICTORIA ($18.99)
Fresh aromatic, green fruit with a light floral overtone opens the way for crisply fresh green apple and citrus flavours in the mouth. Brings zesty acidity and dryness to the finish, together with light body and moderate alcohol. (SW)
AUSTRIA 92 HÖPLER GRÜNER VELTLINER QUALITÄTSWEIN 2012, BURGENLAND ($17.17)
Clear pale gold. Aromas of green apple and ripe peach/pear with orange and lime in the background. Richly flavoured, featuring green apple and citrus, perked up by a bite of limey acidity and a mineral bitterness. GV is a versatile food wine: I enjoyed this with a spicy, cheesy vegetarian lasagna. (RL)* SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 51
NOTED CANADA 92 SPIERHEAD PINOT GRIS 2014, OKANAGAN ($15)
Bursting with vibrant orchard and tropical fruits, this complex, intense and textured Pinot Gris adds up to a superb expression of the varietal that balances its generous pear and palate with good acidity and restrained sweetness. Match it with grilled chicken and Waldorf salad. (TP)
92 SEA STAR SIEGERREBE 2014, PENDER ISLAND, BC ($17.30)
A flagship wine from this Pender Island relative newcomer, this full-on interpretation takes no hostages: up-front honey and floral aromatics follow vibrant acidity and immense vinous backbone with a touch of clove spice to finish. (TP)
91 SEA STAR ORTEGA 2014, PENDER ISLAND ($17.30)
Forward hints of slightly earthy notes and orchard before a palate of pear and starfruit, melon and stone fruit with a luscious texture supported by easy acidity and a lengthy end. (TP)
91 MORAINE VIOGNIER 2014, OKANAGAN ($17.90)
From a cooler site on the Naramata Bench. Distinctive, varietal tangerine notes on top followed by layers of melon and stone fruits on an intense but measured mineral-toned palate with seductive viscosity before a dry finish. (TP)
91 BLUE GROUSE DRY BACCHUS 2013, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($20)
A refreshing departure from some sweeter styles, produced from the original vines on the property, this Bacchus offers up aromas of nettle and honey notes before a crisp but smooth palate with intense stone fruit underpinned by mineral hints before a firm, dry finish. The perfect match for fresh oysters on the half shell. (TP)
91 CC JENTSCH VIOGNIER 2013, OKANAGAN ($22.90)
Floral, orchard and stone fruits up-front, followed by a generous but balanced 52 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
palate of tropical and pineapple notes with a streak of citrus through a crisp and clean finish. (TP)
91 MCWATTERS CHARDONNAY 2013, OKANAGAN ($25)
Harkens back to the old-style California Chards with a big, rich, opulent nose of buttered toast, poached pear, tropical fruits and layers of fine oak spices. It has an extravagant feel on the palate with buttery-rich fruit, spices and a nice finishing jolt of citrus on the finish. (RV)
90 MAVERICK ORIGIN WHITE BLEND 2014, OKANAGAN ($15)
Unique combination of Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc that combines surprisingly well to produce a burst of floral and tropical notes with fresh, lively acidity, considerable texture and a spicyzesty close. (TP)
90 BLUE GROUSE QUILL WHITE 2013, BC ($17)
A blend of Ortega, Pinot Gris, Gewürz and Müller-Thurgau, over 50% estate grown with grapes from just north of Summerland, adds up to a well-balanced workhorse of a blend. Apple, citrus, stone fruit and definite mineral hints that can handle everything from simple seafood to lightly spiced Asian plates. (TP)
90 TOWNSHIP 7 CHARDONNAY 2014, OKANAGAN ($18.25)
Forward, lifted apple and pear notes with a touch of vanilla, followed by a fresh palate. Tropical, stone fruit and a burst of citrus. Very clean and food-friendly: try white spring salmon or scallops with a little citrus butter. (TP)
90 BLUE GROUSE SIEGERREBE 2014, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($20)
Another Cowichan Valley pace-setter for Vancouver Island. This very expressive style brims with bright ripe apple and grapefruit hints wrapped in juicy acidity with tropical notes underpinned by moderate acidity. (TP)
90 SEA STAR STELLAR MARIS 2014, PENDER ISLAND ($20.78)
Multi-varietal “cocktail” of estate-grown,
oceanside Gewürz, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Ortega and Schöenberger yields forward honey and stone fruit notes before a layered and juicy, seamless palate that delivers complexity and interest with textured umami. (TP)
90 HUFF ESTATES SOUTH BAY VINEYARDS CHARDONNAY 2012, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($29.95) Medium yellow colour. The fruit and oak work in tandem to help create a complex wine: pineapple, golden apple, quince, honeyed peach, vanilla, yeast, toast and spice. The mouthfeel is a combination of creaminess and acidity with the County’s telltale minerality providing a defining undercurrent. A long finale makes a perfect partner for lobster thermidor or salmon topped with hollandaise. (ES)
90 THIRTY BENCH WINERY SMALL LOT RIESLING TRIANGLE VINEYARD 2013, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($30)
From a vineyard planted in 1981 comes this redolent Riesling full of bergamot, kaffir lime, white peach, petrol and smoky minerals. The tension between acid and slight residual sugar is beautiful. The long finale will ensure a decade or more of life ahead. Red snapper in a red curry/peanut sauce or chicken satay will be magical with this wine. (ES)
90 CASA-DEA ESTATES WINERY EVA, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY 2014, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($44.95)
This Chardonnay was made à la Amarone method and clocks in with a warming 14.9% alcohol. Sweet peach, golden delicious apple, pineapple, mango, honey, candied ginger and spice are all present. The palate is ripe and concentrated with some residual sugar and excellent length. Ready to drink. (ES)
89 FLAT ROCK RIESLING 2013, ONTARIO ($16.95)
Pale straw in colour with a lime tint; honey and grapefruit on the nose. Off-dry, sweet grapefruit and lime flavours; light on the palate and easy-drinking. (TA)
89 SPERLING VINEYARDS THE MARKET WHITE 2013, OKANAGAN ($17)
Well-crafted blend of Pinot Blanc and Bacchus shows orchard fruit such as peach and pear on the nose before a refreshing apple and citrus-lime palate. Think lighter seafood plates or just good sipping. (TP)
89 THE FOREIGN AFFAIR ENCHANTED 2013 ($17.95)
This one-of-a-kind blend of 45% Riesling and 55% Sauvignon Blanc reveals a huge perfume of passion fruit, honey, sweet peach, cassis, violets, guava and white flowers. The same follows through on the palate, where bergamot and citrus chime in. Fresh acid, off dry and ready to drink. (ES)
89 HENRY OF PELHAM ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2013, SHORT HILLS BENCH ($19.95)
Defines the Niagara Peninsula Chardonnay style in a warm year. Pale lemon in colour with a bouquet of apple and green pineapple backed by spicy, toasty oak. Full-bodied, dry and spicy — oak-driven. (TA)
89 HUFF ESTATES PINOT GRIS 2013, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($20) A portion of this wine spent eight months in new oak, which has imbued the wine with a creamy texture that envelopes the apple, pear, white peach, honey and spice. Medium body, there is great length and enough depth to pair up against creambased dishes. (ES)
89 THIRTY BENCH WINERY SMALL LOT RIESLING STEEL POST 2013, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($30) A tight wine, this is just starting to show peach, white flower, grapefruit, lime and smoky minerals. It is best left untouched for a couple of years and then consumed until 2025. (ES)
88 CAVE SPRING ESTATE BOTTLED CHARDONNAY MUSQUÉ 2013, ONTARIO ($15.45) An easy-drinking Chardonnay made without recourse to oak. Medium straw in colour with a nose of apples heightened by a floral top note; medium-bodied, dry and fresh. (TA)
88 COYOTE’S RUN RED PAW VINEYARD PINOT GRIS 2013, FOUR MILE CREEK, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($16.95)
Here’s a Pinot Gris with substance. Straw-coloured with a peach pit and menthol bouquet, it has richly extracted pear and citrus flavours. Crisply dry and well made with a clean, minerally finish. (TA)
88 CASA-DEA ESTATES WINERY MELON DE BOURGOGNE, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($18.95)
Casa-Dea has now entered the Ontario Melon market with this solid textbook offering. Almost water colour, this zesty white wine reveals green apple, pear, white flower, lemon and salty minerality. Light bodied and dry, there is very good length. Of course, the classic pairing of oysters on the half shell is what is required for this wine. (ES)
88 MISSION HILL RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2013, OKANAGAN ($20)
Polished and stately first whiff, with hazelnuts, fine cream, ripe melon and subtle vanilla blossoms. Orchard pear, apple and bright Meyer lemon is pure and potent on the fuller-bodied palate, though overshadowed by spicy clove and vanilla wood texturing. Finish is spicy — cloves and vanilla — and lingering. Pour with richer citrus-buttered white fish or lobster. (TR)
88 8TH GENERATION VINEYARD RIESLING CLASSIC 2013, OKANAGAN ($21)
Bernd Schales is an 8th-generation winemaker and his wife, Stefanie, is a 10th-generation winegrower. Lifetimes of history and years of winemaking/ winegrowing study throughout Germany (where their family still owns vineyards), New Zealand and South Africa led the Schales to set up shop with their young family in the Okanagan in 2003. They have carved their niche with Germanic-meets-Okanagan wines, crafted in a small-scale, contemporary style. This is from 28-year-old estate vines, with the fruit purity preserved by stainless-steel tanks and the hint of sweetness from the ripe, concentrated fruit. Bright intensity and tension throughout,
with Anjou pear, white peach, gooseberry, lime pulp, stone, nectarine and a touch of candied lime zest on the lengthy finish. Partner with papaya salad or Indian-spiced chutney. (TR)
CHILE 93 CASA NUEVA SAUVIGNON BLANC RESERVA 2012, CASABLANCA VALLEY ($11.33) Clear pale yellow. Complex nose of flowers, oranges, pineapples and pears. From a hot year, this is surprisingly full-bodied and rich with sweet peach, apricot, lemon and lime flavours followed by a graceful, long, minerally finish. If you like your SBs rich and unoaked, this is for you. (RL)*
88 CONO SUR BICICLETA CHARDONNAY 2014, CENTRAL VALLEY ($10.45)
Another stellar bargain from the Bicicleta brand. Pale straw colour with a bouquet of peach and lemon. Medium-bodied, fresh and dry with a clean finish. Can’t beat the price. (TA)
ITALY 90 ALOIS LAGEDER BENEFIZIUM PORER PINOT GRIGIO 2008, ALTO ADIGE DOC ($28)
Pale gold colour. Old 30- to 40-year-old vines, neutral oak influence and some bottle age brings out a rich, round, complex and savoury sipper, replete with baked pear, mushroom and apple peel. Long, minerally finish makes it even more compelling. Pair with autumnal mushroom dishes. (HH)
89 ALOIS LAGEDER PINOT GRIGIO 2013, VIGNETI DELLE DOLOMITI IGT, ALTO ADIGE-TRENTINO ($22)
Clear, star-bright. Stainless steel fermentation and aging, so very fresh on the nose, highlighted by white flowers, white peach, ripe pear and tropical spice notes. Rich, round mid-palate. Clean and minerally from start to finish, with a lingering, appetizing salty tang. Pair with a seafood salad. (HH) SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 53
NOTED 88 S MARIA LA PALMA VERMENTINO BLU 2013, SARDINIA ($19.99)
Crisp, lively and fresh with herbal notes, aromas and flavours of citrus, ripe apples, peach and almonds with a bright finish. Ideal with shellfish and Asian cuisine. (GB)
88 ALOIS LAGEDER MÜLLER THURGAU 2011, VIGNETI DELLE DOLOMITI IGT, ALTO ADIGETRENTINO ($22)
Straw yellow colour. Stainless steel fermentation means a very crisp and clean style. Apple and citrus fruitiness accompany zesty acidity and off-dry honeyed notes on the finish. It all adds up to a refreshing, thirst-quenching style. Drink now. (HH)
87 FABIANO PINOT GRIGIO 2013, VENETO ($16.99)
Open, easy-drinking and fresh, this excellent value offers apple, mineral and citrus flavours; crisp with good acidity and a clean finish. Pinot Grigio, in general, deservedly gets a bad rap because of the abundance of insipid offerings on the market; but when it’s made well, it is a lovely, drinkable and food-versatile wine. Fabiano is an extremely underrated producer and this wine, in my opinion, is the best quality entry-level Pinot Grigio available on the market. Excellent with summer salads, seafood, poultry and pork. (GB)
87 CEUSO SCURATI BIANCO 2011, SICILY ($24)
Aromas and flavours of white peaches, pineapple, citrus rind and tea; fleshy texture in the mid-palate with a soft acidity on the long finish. A versatile food wine having the ability to match with everything from grilled octopus to white fish to spicy cuisines. (GB)
SOUTH AFRICA 89 ALVI’S DRIFT VIOGNIER 2014, WO WORCESTER ($13.99)
A real steal in this price range, showing lively fresh floral, stone fruit and tropical fruit character, appetizingly crisp acidity, a touch of mineral grip and elegant, 54 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
satisfying finish. It works equally well as an apéritif or to match with a variety of seafoods and white meat dishes. (SW)
89 EIKENDAL CUVÉE BLANC CHARDONNAY/SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, STELLENBOSCH ($14.99)
This unusual blend reveals varietal Sauvignon characters: fresh green herb, green fruit and stony mineral aromatics. Grassy green fruit and crisp mineral in the mouth. A touch of grapefruit on the mid-palate leads to rounded Chardonnay-like citrus flavours with some leesy softness, finishing crisp and dry. A lively and intriguingly different wine. (SW)
88 VINUM CHENIN BLANC 2012, STELLENBOSCH ($15.95)
Always a solid value! If you are a fan of oaked Chardonnay, spread your wings and try this wooded Chenin. Peach, toast, honey, spice and wet wool are underpinned by fresh acidity and splendid length. Tandoori chicken or a filet of salmon will pair brilliantly with this wine. (ES)
88 KEN FORRESTER OLD VINE CHENIN BLANC, STELLENBOSCH ($17.95)
Peach, yellow apple, honey, pineapple, pear, white flowers and mineral find a home in this crisp white. Great length and ready to drink, preferably with a cheese board or freshwater fish. (ES)
SPAIN 91 TXOMIN ETXANIZ TXAKOLI GETARIAKO 2014, TXAKOLINA ($23)
A Basque country favourite made from the Hondarrabi Zuri grape. A beautiful nose of lemon-lime, minerals and a lovely herbal note. Slight spritz on the palate with an explosion of citrus and stony minerality, and a bright and breezy feel. Serve with all manner of seafood and all day long. (RV)
88 MARQUÉS DE CÁCERES ANTEA 2013, RIOJA ($15.95)
A fresh white blend of Viura with a touch of Malvasia. Lemon yellow in colour with
an oaky, spicy, stone-fruit nose. Full-bodied, waxy, white peach, pear and citrus flavours. Good value. (TA)
UNITED STATES 89 CHARLES AND CHARLES CHARDONNAY 2013, WASHINGTON STATE ($15.95)
A bargain-priced Chardonnay from the Evergreen State. Pale straw colour with a nose of vanilla oak and spicy apple; full-bodied, richly extracted flavours of pineapple and melon with balancing acidity and a minty finish. (TA)
88 CLINE FAMILY CELLARS VIOGNIER 2013, NORTH COAST ($17.99)
A stylish California style showing ripe peach and floral notes on the nose. Generous apricot, peach and honeyed flavours balanced by zesty acidity with a long harmonious finish. Pair with richer seafood and white meat dishes. (SW)
ROSÉ 93 CHÂTEAU VIGNELAURE ROSÉ 2013, AOC COTEAUX D’AIX EN PROVENCE ($21.83)
Clear pale copper-pink. Potent fruit-salad nose, everything from apples and oranges to rhubarb and strawberry pie. Medium-bodied, ever-so-slightly sweet with refreshing acidity and flavours of orange, persimmon and passion fruit with a long finish. A food rosé — pink wine with pink meat, so try this with smoky glazed ham and buttery mashed sweet potatoes. Drink now. (RL)*
92 CHURCHILL’S ROSÉ DOURO 2012 ($15.50)
Clear orange-vermilion. Light nose featuring strawberry, cherry and tangerine with a hint of celery leaf. Full-bodied for a rosé, with a touch of sweetness but well-balanced. On the palate, very fruity with strawberry, peach and a hint of almond bitterness giving interest on the finish. A rosé for red wine drinkers. Drink now. Good value. (RL)*
90 TINHORN CREEK OLDFIELD SERIES ROSÉ 2014, OKANAGAN ($20) Partial saignée process yields appealing pale salmon colour in the glass. Aromas of orange, apple and red berries followed by a well-structured palate with definite citrus and zesty notes. Think more towards Provence. (TP)
89 VIGNOBLES LORGERIL L’ORANGERAIE ROSÉ 2014, PAYS D’OC ($9.95)
This is a delicious rosé for the price: you get dry wine that is salmon coloured with a fresh citrus and strawberry nose and crisp flavours of sour cherry and oranges. A perfect summer sipper in the sun or you could serve it with seafood salad. (TA)
89 MUGA RIOJA ROSÉ 2014, RIOJA ($13.95) One of the best rosés currently on the market. It’s a blend of 3 classic Spanish varieties: Tempranillo, Garnacha and the white Viura. Pale salmon in colour, it has a cherry and cherry-pit nose, beautifully perfumed. Dry and easy-drinking. (TA)
RED ARGENTINA 89 SECRETO PATAGONICO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, PATAGONIA ($18.95) This full-bodied, gutsy Cab from the cooler southern Patagonia is dense purple-black in colour. On the nose, it offers a bouquet of blackcurrants and vanilla oak. Sweet fruit and a soft mouthfeel; structured and finishing with a mocha sweetness. (TA)
88 FUZION SHIRAZ MALBEC, MENDOZA ($15.45/MAGNUM)
From the initial offering in 2006, the quality of this bargain wine fell off a bit, but now it’s back on form and a real bargain in the 1500 ml format. Deeply coloured with a nose of black cherries and raspberries; fruity but firm and gulpable. Perfect for barbecue parties. (TA)
AUSTRALIA
CANADA
91 WAKEFIELD ESTATE SHIRAZ 2013, CLARE VALLEY ($17.95)
94 THE FOREIGN AFFAIR GRAN Q 2010, NIAGARA ($150)
A beautifully made wine. Dense purple in colour with a savoury, liquorice and herbal nose elevated with a floral note. Full-bodied, rich, dry; prune, plum, blackberry and blackcurrant flavours with well-integrated oak. Muscular but elegant. (TA)
90 DE BORTOLI GULF STATION SHIRAZ/VIOGNIER 2010, YARRA VALLEY ($19.95)
Very northern Rhône in style, it’s deep ruby in colour with a savoury-herbal nose of blackberries. Medium- to full-bodied, dry and elegant with black raspberry and liquorice notes. Nicely balanced with good length. (TA)
89 MCGUIGAN EXPRESSIONS SHIRAZ 2012, LANGHORNE CREEK, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($18.99) Fleshy ripe berry-fruit and light peppery spicy notes on the nose. Blackberry and blackcurrant flavours supported by velvety tannic structure and a touch of dark chocolate. Balanced full-flavoured wine that deserves a dish with equal intensity. (SW)
88 FIFTH LEG SHIRAZ 2012, WESTERN AUSTRALIA ($16.99)
Shows some depth and complexity with developed Shiraz varietal raspberry, cinnamon and a pinch of white pepper on the nose. Shifts to rich blackberry flavours on the palate in a mediumto full-bodied package with well-integrated fruit, oak and light dry tannins on the finish. (SW)
87 KILIKANOON KILLERMAN’S RUN SHIRAZ 2012, CLARE VALLEY, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($22.99)
Developed deep red fruit with raspberry and supporting peppery spice shifting to concentrated dark berry and black chocolate themes on the palate. Shows a touch of liquorice on the slightly bitter tannic finish. Will be better with 2 to 3 years additional aging. Ready for the final days of summer and the grill. (SW)
The name of this wine is a tip of the hat to the famed Amarone producer Guiseppe Quintarelli, whose wines were the reference point for Len Crispino when he decided to start the Foreign Affair a decade ago. The grapes for this 17%+ alcohol monster were dried for 3 months before being pressed. It possesses the texture of syrup and a sexy profile of plum, dried olives, maraschino cherries, anise, mint, milk chocolate and vanilla. Yes, the price is out of reach for most of us mere mortals, but this is a singular wine, which will continue to evolve for the next 15 to 20 years - and I have never said that about Ontario red before! Serious meditation wine here! (ES))
92 MORAINE PINOT NOIR 2012, OKANAGAN ($24)
This small but focused Naramata producer impresses right out of the gate. Up-front anise, violet and smoky-earthy hints followed by a supple palate with balanced fruit and oak below a savoury and mineral centre with appealing acidity. Multiple awards. (TP)
92 POPLAR GROVE CABERNET FRANC 2012, OKANAGAN ($35)
From the winery that put Okanagan Cab Franc on the map. Up-front bright red berry and tobacco notes followed by a supple palate of black cherry and raspberry with a spicy edge wrapped in juicy acidity and a lingering, gently herbal finish. (TP)
92 TIME SYRAH 2012, OKANAGAN ($35)
Shows a deep, inky purple colour with a nose of grilled meats, pepper, earth, eucalypt and then an array of plums, currants, cassis, anise and barrel spices. This is a big wine in the mouth that starts with black pepper and currants, dark plums, grilled meats, garrigue and a touch of minty herbs. It’s bold and complex through the finish and is built to be aged. (RV) SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 55
NOTED 92 THIRTY BENCH SMALL LOT CABERNET FRANC 2012, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($40)
After winning 3 gold (including this wine) and 2 silver medals at this year’s Ontario Wine Awards, it is no wonder that Emma Garner also took home the Winemaker of the Year trophy. This powerful and concentrated Franc pumps out the cocoa, violets, cassis, raspberry, grilled red peppers, graphite and earth. Elegant; the sweet mid-palate, long finish and ripe tannins mean that this wine will cellar until 2022. (ES)
92 VINELAND ESTATE CABERNET FRANC RESERVE 2012, NIAGARA ($40)
This is a beautiful Cab Franc from the near-perfect 2012 vintage in Ontario with a rich nose of raspberry, cherry, cassis, currants, integrated herbs and spice. It is defined by its smooth, lush entry in the mouth as the rich array of fruits wash over the palate with perfectly integrated spices following behind. Ever thought of a Cab Franc with boiled artichokes. Now that I’ve planted the seed, try it. You’ll be pleasently surprised. (RV)
91 THE FOREIGN AFFAIR DREAM 2012, NIAGARA ($29.95)
This appassimento-style blend of 33% Merlot, 33% Cabernet France, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot is truly impressive. Clocking in at 14.7% alcohol, it sings with chocolate, blackberry, kirsch, violets, dark cherry, prunes and a hint of rubber. Full-bodied with some residual sugar, the wine is already approachable, but will handle another 5 to 6 years in the cellar. (ES)
91 HUFF ESTATES QUARRY ROAD PINOT NOIR 2013, VINEMOUNT RIDGE ($30)
This wine is the result of a fruit swap between Huff and Tawse wineries. Huff obtained Pinot Noir from the acclaimed Quarry Vineyard in Niagara and Tawse opted for the Chardonnay from the equally prized South Bay vineyard in PEC. This Pinot is the epitome of poise and elegance. Red fruit, beetroot, 56 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
mushroom, mineral and vague spice are all built on a medium-bodied frame. Superb length, fresh acid and soft tannins. Drink until 2018. Oh yes, I should also mention that this is the gold medal winning Pinot Noir at this year’s Ontario Wine Awards. (ES)
91 PONDVIEW BELLA TERRA CABERNET FRANC 2012 UNFILTERED, NIAGARA ($35)
Gorgeous nose of concentrated cherry-kirsch, raspberry, cassis and touches of anise, bay leaves and a range of spices and herbs. It’s thick, rich and flavourful on the palate with good concentration of succulent fruit favours, a balanced approach to spice and tannins, and structure through the finish. (RV)
91 CULMINA HYPOTHESIS 2012, OKANAGAN ($39.95)
For number lovers, this blend of 57% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon and 19% Franc spent 16 months aging in 70% new French oak. It is a full-bodied offering that exudes dark cherry, blackberry, cassis, plums, chocolate, spice, toast and mint/eucalyptus. Full bodied, it is concentrated and ripe with considerable refinement and suave tannins. Drink over the next five years. (ES)
91 BURROWING OWL SYRAH 2011, OKANAGAN ($39.95)
This is a beautifully crafted Syrah from the southern part of the Okanagan. Dense purple-black in colour, it has a nose of cedar, smoke and blackberries with a herbal note. Dry, full-bodied and lively on the palate. Very much in northern Rhône style. (TA)
91 THIRTY BENCH SMALL LOT BENCHMARK RED 2012, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($60)
This 14%+ alcohol Meritage is smooth and concentrated with loads of plum, vanilla, raspberry, dark cherry, mint, chocolate and vanilla. The palate is rich with a long finish and a tannic backbone. Hold for a year and then drink until 2023. A blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. (ES)
90 THIRTY BENCH SMALL LOT MERLOT 2012, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($40)
A textbook example of Merlot. Plum, dark cherry, spice, roasted herbs, chocolate and red/purple flowers flow from the glass. The 14.4% alcohol, suave tannins and excellent length make for one tasty drop of juice. Add a dash of piri piri to your steak and drink until 2022. (ES)
89 BURROWING OWL CABERNET FRANC 2011, OKANAGAN ($33)
From one of the original cult wineries of the Okanagan Valley, and still a sought-after producer today. Bright and juicy red and black fruits meets structured, ripe tannins in this fresh, herbal red. Tobacco, branch, cherry compote, bramble, rhubarb, plum and some darker cola notes on the smooth, full palate, finishing with a peppery spice and dusky clove. Pour now with grilled ribs. (TR)
88 THE FOREIGN AFFAIR CONSPIRACY 2013, NIAGARA ($19.95)
Modelled after a Ripasso, this wine contains 62% Cab Sauv, 22% Cab Franc and 16% Merlot. Plum, cherry, blackberry, cinnamon, vanilla, cocoa powder, incense, green jalapeño and violets are all in the glass. Medium body, fresh acid and great length round out the experience. Pair with a grilled veal chop or moussaka. (ES)
88 TINHORN CREEK OLDFIELD SERIES MERLOT 2011, OKANAGAN ($27)
Here Merlot from Black Sage Bench’s Diamondback Vineyard is splashed with 9% Cabernet Franc and 2% Syrah and rests for 18 months in new, 1- and 2-year-old French oak before a further 18 months of bottle aging. The result is deep cassis, wild blackberry, thorn and a light smoke nose. The deep palate is full with black smoked plum, cedar, dark chocolate and fine clove spices, ending with a bitter tobacco leaf/espresso note. Tannins are firm, but smoothed over — all that additional aging served this big wine well. It will continue to meld for another 2 to 4 years. Pour with rosemary lamb medallions now. (TR)
CHILE
FRANCE
90 FALERNIA RESERVA SYRAH 2010, ELQUI VALLEY ($18.95)
90 CAVE DE ROQUEBRUN FIEFS D’AUPENAC 2013, SAINT-CHINIAN ROQUEBRUN, LANGUEDOC ($20)
A bargain at the price. This wine from the north of Chile is dense purple-ruby in colour with a smoky, savoury nose of blackberries and white pepper; full-bodied, dry and richly extracted with freshening acidity. (TA)
90 COUSINO MACUL FINIS TERRAE 2010, MAIPO VALLEY ($40)
An ambitious blend of Cab Sauv, Merlot and Syrah. Expressive nose of ripe red fruits, menthol and obvious oak (coconut, pastry notes). Full-bodied but velvety on the palate, seductive; the tender tannins are in good balance with the fruity extract. Finish is firm. (GBQc)
89 ERRAZURIZ ACONCAGUA ALTO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, ACONCAGUA ($19.95) The new vintage of Errazuriz Aconcagua Alto Cabernet Sauvignon is the kind of wine you want to take to a barbecue. The 2012 is a real extroverted Chilean red with concentrated blackcurrant and black plum flavours carried on lively acidity and wrapped in spicy vanilla oak. It comes from the same vineyard that produces the Don Maximiano Cabernet but is a fraction of the price. (TA)
88 ALTO LOS ROMEROS RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, COLCHAGUA VALLEY ($16.99)
Dark, concentrated colour accurately foreshadows intense blackcurrant and blackberry character that is backed by cinnamon, clove and a whiff of green herb. Lightly sweet ripe fruit is supported by solid tannic structure, well-balanced acidity and a light splash of milk chocolate on the well-integrated finish. (SW)
87 ALTO LOS ROMEROS SHIRAZ 2012, VALLE CENTRALE, CHILE ($12.99)
Deeply scented fleshy raspberry and redcurrant with a distinctive herbal overtone, evolving to raspberry, blackberry and dark chocolate in the mouth with firm tannic grip and good overall balance. (SW)
88 DOMAINE DU VAL DES ROIS 2010, AOC CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES ($19)
Medium yellow. Ripe and rich nose of apricot, white flowery notes and a kiss of oak. Fine acidity, nice harmonious mid-palate, well balanced through the finish. A blend of oak-aged Roussane and Grenache Blanc. (GBQc)
Medium-deep young garnet with fine particles. Intense nose of raspberries and plums with hints of cinnamon and cloves and the candy scent of Grenache. Light bodied for its type with bright fruit acidity, tasting of blackberries and cranberries. But the fruit is fading and the tannins are almost gone; drink up. (RL)*
90 LA CHABLISIENNE LA SEREINE 2012, CHABLIS ($23)
86 JP CHENET VIVE LA VIE VIN DE FRANCE ($11)
2012 gave some very classic wines in Chablis. Very pale yellow. Sharp nose, aromatic with mineral and citrus notes. Lively acidity; the delicious citrus taste has precision and intensity in the mid-palate. Finish is round with great length. Drinks well now and over the next few years. (GBQc)
89 HUGEL GENTIL 2013, ALSACE ($15.95)
An Edelzwicker blend of Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Sylvaner and Muscat. Pale straw in colour with an aromatic, minerally nose of grapefruit and apricot — flavours that are repeated on the palate. Refreshingly dry. Perfect for Asian dishes. (TA)
89 LA CHABLISIENNE LES VÉNÉRABLES 2011, CHABLIS ($29)
Pale yellow. Fresh citrusy nose with mineral undertones. Lively acidity in the classic Chablis mouthfeel: chip-dry and dense, with a tight core and a mineral finish. Ready to drink, from a more approachable vintage. (GBQc)
89 DOMAINE PIERRE RICHARD “LES MARNES” CHARDONNAY FLORAL 2013, CÔTES DU JURA AOC ($39)
“Floral” designation means oak barrels were topped up during its 12 months of aging, as opposed to the more oxidative “Tradition” that features untopped ullage. A bounty of fresh white flowers, white peach and citrus. Silky texture and firm acidity with vanilla and a hint of nuttiness on the minerally finish. (HH)
This sympathetic white blend of Colombard and Gros Manseng will extend your summer. The grass and citrus notes coming out of the glass are simple but pleasant. Very light and as refreshing as a sparkling lemonade; your glass will be empty in no time. (GBQc)
92 GUIGAL CHÂTEAUNEUF-DUPAPE 2011, RHÔNE ($59)
A blend of 75% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah and 5% other grapes (average age of 45 years old) from soil that is a mix of round pebbles and red clay. Such a gorgeous nose: mature red fruits, boysenberry, plums, smoke, game, garrigue, tar, anise and spicy notes. It is complex and powerful on the palate, showing youthful vigour that highlights the darker fruits and ripe, full tannins. Cellar 5 to 10 years. (RV)
92 GUIGAL CÔTE-RÔTIE BRUNE ET BLONDE 2011, RHÔNE ($75) The blend for this Côte-Rôtie is 96% Syrah and just 4% Viognier from plots grown on the limestone-rich soil on the steep slopes of the Côte Blonde and Brune. A gorgeous nose of warm raspberries, herbs, grilled meat, blackberry jam, earth, tar and smoke. It is complex and fleshy on the palate with an array of red and dark fruits that play nicely with the oak spices and soft tannins. Age 5 to 10 years. (RV)
91 CAVE DE ROQUEBRUN FIEFS D’AUPENAC 2012, SAINT-CHINIAN ROQUEBRUN, LANGUEDOC ($22)
Full ruby. Black fruits, a touch of oak and a hint of cooked red meat. Full bodSEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 57
NOTED ied, ripe fruity taste, tight mid-palate; a little graininess leading to an intense, open finish. (GBQc)
91 E GUIGAL CROZES-HERMITAGE ROUGE 2011, RHÔNE ($29)
The 2011 Crozes-Hermitage, which is made of 100% Syrah from vines that average 35 years old, is classic Northern Rhône with a gamy, meaty, peppery nose that reveals a range of dark fruits, boysenberry, olives and savoury spices. There is good acidity in the mouth but not overly tannic with flavours of smoky blackcurrants, lovely integrated herbs, spice and pepper. (RV)
90 CHÂTEAU LAMARTINE CUVÉE PARTICULIÈRE 2011, CAHORS, SOUTHWEST ($22)
Dark ruby. Deep, concentrated nose of black fruits with a good deal of oak. Full bodied, intense fruity taste, tight and compact tannic backbone, generous in every way yet well balanced. Will last 10 years. (GBQc)
90 DOMAINE DE LA PINTE LA CAPITAINE ARBOIS ROUGE AOC 2012, JURA ($29)
Biodynamic methods since 2009, this red blend is 60% Pinot Noir, 30% Poulsard and 10% Trousseau, made with only indigenous yeast and no new barrels. Fresh floral, herbal and cherry aromas. Great tension and grip on the palate, supported by fine tannins along with savoury and mineral from start to lingering finish. (HH)
90 LOUIS JADOT BEAUNE BOUCHEROTTES 2009, BURGUNDY ($59.95)
A beautifully poised red Burgundy — ruby-coloured with a bouquet of raspberries, minerals and a light floral note; dry, lean, elegant and firmly structured. (TA)
89 CHÂTEAU VINCENS ORIGINE 2011, CAHORS ($17.95)
A wine to cellar for at least 3 years. Deep ruby in colour with a minty, spicy plum nose; earthy black plum and dark chocolate flavours. Dry and full-bodied with dusty tannins. (TA) 58 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
89 DOMAINE ROLET VIELLES VIGNES ARBOIS ROUGE AOC 2011, JURA ($24)
A delightful, fascinating pale garnet red wine made with 100% Poulsard grapes from minimum 35-year-old vines. Meaty, rhubarb, cherry and slight vegetal notes on the nose. Light, fine tannins, soft texture and a very minerally finish. Its meaty character will develop over the next 10 years. (HH)
89 CAVE DE ROQUEBRUN CHEMIN DES OLIVETTES 2013, SAINT-CHINIAN, LANGUEDOC ($18) Ruby-purple. Ripe red and blackberries, without any oak. Very supple, yet full-bodied with chewy tannins, a mouthful of fruity extract and a nicely balanced finish. (GBQc)
89 DOMAINE BELLE CUVÉE LOUIS BELLE 2010, CROZES-HERMITAGE, RHÔNE VALLEY ($30)
Dark ruby. Black berry fruits, olives, smoky notes and a hint of liquorice for a typical Syrah nose from that region. Balance is leaning on the acidic side, so the finely grained tannins are more apparent in the tight mid-palate but there is lots of fruity extract to make it last another 5 to 7 years. Drying finish. (GBQc)
88 LOUIS BERNARD CÔTESDU-RHÔNE VILLAGES 2013, RHÔNE ($14.95)
Deep ruby in colour with a minerally nose of raspberry and pencil lead. Dry and fruity. It tastes like a Beaujolais Villages on steroids, firm and earthy, with spicy red berry-fruit. (TA)
88 CAVE DE ROQUEBRUN TERRASSE DE MAYLINE 2013, SAINT-CHINIAN, LANGUEDOC ($15)
Dark ruby. Raspberry and blackberries with spicy notes. Dry fruity taste. Slightly grainy texture yet supple mouthfeel. Clean finish. Drink now. (GBQc)
88 CHÂTEAU LAMARTINE 2011, CAHORS ($18)
Dark ruby. Blueberry and black fruits over oaky notes. Full and generously fruity, the
tannins are felt but not aggressively so. Tight finish of good length. Drink over 5 to 7 years. (GBQc)
86 CHATEAU DE COURTEILLAC 2012, BORDEAUX AOP ($16.50)
This is a sturdy, workmanlike Merlot-led Bordeaux for everyday drinking. It offers typical dark plum, blackcurrant and green herbal notes with a bit of tannic backbone and appetizing, food-friendly acidity. (SW)
GERMANY 89 LOOSEN BROS DR L RIESLING 2013, MOSEL ($13.95)
Great value here. Pale straw colour; minerally, citrus and peach bouquet, already developing petrol notes; light-bodied, off-dry, peach and honey flavours with a soft mouthfeel. (TA)
GREECE 92 SANTO WINES ASSYRTIKO GRAND RESERVE 2012, SANTORINI ($30)
I have the highest respect for this co-op which represents close to 1,000 growers, as it always turns out bang-for-the-buck wines. But now they have taken it to the next level with the introduction of this beauty, which blew me away! From 100-year-old vines and aged in partial new oak, it features a golden colour and a huge bouquet of toast, peach, bay leaf, honey, golden apple, spice, resin and white flowers. The same flows over onto the taste buds where Assyrtiko’s telltale crystalline/saline acidity carries the long finale. A wild ride in the best possible sense! (ES)
HUNGARY 88 TOKAJ KERESKEDOHAZ GRAND SELECTION SEMI-DRY TOKAJI FURMINT 2012, TOKAJ-HEGYALJA ($16.95)
A very serviceable, food-friendly wine. Straw-coloured with a spicy apricot nose
lifted with a floral note; medium-bodied, off-dry, herbal, minerally flavour finishing with a dried apricot flavour. (TA)
ITALY 95 VIETTTI BAROLO LAZZARITO 2011, PIEDMONT ($150)
My personal favorite of all of Vietti’s Cru Baroli! Powerful, rich, ripe and extracted, this Barolo just flatters with all of its plum, blackberry, dark cherry, tobacco, anise, violets, vanilla and cocoa powder. The palate is already approachable, offering sweet fruit, concentration and an incredible aftertaste. Great now, but it will continue to improve over the next 20 plus years. (ES)
94 VIETTI BAROLO ROCCHE DI CASTIGLIONE 2011, PIEDMONT ($150)
Every year, when I visit Piedmont for Nebbiolo Prima, the annual new vintage release tasting of all things Nebbiolo, I always make sure to book a side visit to Vietti. Last year, I was seduced by all their 2010s and can say emphatically that their 2011s are right on par. Rich and extracted, there is dark cherry, plum, vanilla, anise, cocoa and mint. Full bodied with a crazy finish and structure to take it 25 years. Absolute brilliance! (ES)
93 COS MALDAFRICA 2011, SICILY ($44)
Vinous and delicate aromas of blackberry, cherry, earth and mineral with great balance, structure and depth. Persistent and penetrating with a fresh, long and clean finish. 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. (GB)
93 CASTELLO DI CACCHIANO MILLENNIO CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG GRAN SELEZIONE 2009, TUSCANY ($50)
Ruby core with garnet rim. Wide ranging aromas include raspberry, vanilla, cloves, graphite and forest floor. Generous, round palate with an elegant balance of juicy acidity and fine-grained tannins. Almond notes on the finish. 100% Sangiovese. A fine partner with game meats. (HH)
92 ROCCA DI CASTAGNOLI STIELLE CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG GRAN SELEZIONE 2010, TUSCANY ($47)
Deep ruby colour. Ripe red berries with spice and balsamic notes. Firm acidity, well-structured tannins and powerful intensity on a full-bodied frame. Long finish with balsamic notes. 100% Sangiovese. Cellar for 5 to 10 years to enhance its elegance. I can recommend a dozen Italian dishes but it’s perfect on its own. (HH)
92 ROCCA DELLE MACÌE SERGIO ZINGARELLI CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG GRAN SELEZIONE 2011, TUSCANY ($95)
Deep ruby colour. Intense nose with forest floor and vanilla spice. Fresh acidity, juicy texture and dry, fine tannins add up to a well-balanced, velvety palate. Long, savoury finish with lingering mineral notes. Delicious with venison in an espresso-chocolate-cherry sauce. (HH)
91 S MARIA LA PALMA CAGNULARI 2011, SARDINIA ($44)
Dark and dense, yet balanced, fresh and elegant showing dark berry, spice, exotic herbs, a firm structure, depth and nuanced finish. Unique and distinct and worth it to seek it out. Great with veal cheeks. (GB)
91 CASA SOLA CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG GRAN SELEZIONE 2010, TUSCANY ($45) Ruby core with garnet rim. Ripe red fruit aromas with light notes of spice and bramble. Rich, round palate with robust tannins and a powerful structure. Clove leads the charge on the long spicy-sweet finish. 100% Sangiovese. A match for barbecued meats. (HH)
91 CASTELLO DI GABBIANO BELLEZZA CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG GRAN SELEZIONE 2011, TUSCANY ($45)
Deep ruby colour. Complex aromas of red berry fruits, spicy vanilla and orange-peel notes. Ripe dark-fruit flavours with nervy acidity and silky tannins. Very elegant and approachable now. 100% Sangiovese. Sip with aged cheeses. (HH)
90 RIVERA CAPPELLACCIO RISERVA 2007, CASTEL DEL MONTE, PUGLIA ($18)
Ruby-garnet. Sweet plums, spices, blackberry jam and anise notes. A mouthful of dark fruit flavour wrapping chewy tannins in the velvety mid-palate. Long finish refreshed by a touch of anise. Ready to drink. (GBQc)
90 ALLEGRINI PALAZZO DELLA TORRE 2011, VENETO ($24.95)
This is a delicious blend of Corvina and Rondinella. Dense purple in colour with a nose of ripe black cherries and vanilla oak; medium- to full-bodied, it’s dry with blackcurrant, cherry and pencil lead flavours, finishing firmly. (TA)
90 CEUSO SCURATI NERO D’AVOLA 2012, SICILY ($25)
Vibrant and fresh with intense aromas and flavours of wild berries, red liquorice, wild herbs, spice, earth and mineral with great balance, elegant tannins and fresh acidity on the finish. A great value and possesses loads of character. A textbook example of Sicily’s most planted red grape. Ideal with octopus and squid, caponata, grilled tuna, pasta in tomato sauces, or anything coming off the grill. (GB)
90 PIETRADOLCE ETNA ROSSO 2013, SICILY ($30)
Elegant, fragrant and fresh with strawberry, sour cherry and wild currant aromas and flavours, great focus and finesse with a stony minerality and crisp finish. The vineyards on the northern slopes of Mt Etna, the tallest active volcano in Europe, and high altitude contribute to the vibrancy, intensity and minerality of the wine. Don’t let the lighter colour and medium body fool you. This wine has loads of character. 100% Nerello Mascalese, a grape you should discover if you haven’t already. (GB)
89 CAPEZZANA VIN RUSPO ROSATO DI CARMIGNANO 2014, TUSCANY ($25)
Loads of cherry and citrus aromas and flavours complemented by fresh herbs, bright acidity and a food-friendly firmness. Pair with everything! (GB) SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 59
NOTED 89 ALOIS LAGEDER MIMUÈT PINOT NOIR RISERVA 2012, ALTO ADIGE DOC ($29)
Pale garnet colour. Fermented in stainless steel and then aged in a mix of stainless steel and oak barrels. Aromas of fresh rhubarb and brambly red berries. Red and black cherry flavours accompany fine tannins, austere acidity and a great structure. Cinnamon joins the long, minerally finish. A red for salmon. (HH)
88 AGRICOLTORI DEL GEOGRAFICO CHIANTI COLLI SENESI 2010, DOCG ($12.83)
Clear medium-deep cherry-garnet. Faint nose of raspberry, dust and leather. Light bodied with appealing typical Chianti flavours of bright cherry/raspberry fruit, an approachable crowd-pleaser at a good price. Lots of acidity to stand up to the classic match of pastas with tomato sauce. Drink now. (RL)*
heavy oak flavours of chocolate, mocha and coffee as a means to cover the undesirable qualities. That said, there have always been a few producers who have churned out profound Pinotage, and Kanokop is certainly at the top of my list. The 2012 shows lovely raspberry, cassis, sweet cherry, vanilla, herbs and a touch of animal. Full bodied, there is excellent length and structure to take it into the late 2020s. (ES)
90 CLOS MONTBLANC SYRAH PREMIUM 2010, DOC CONCA DE BARBERA ($14.25)
91 KANONKOP CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, SIMONSBERG-STELLENBOSCH ($47.99)
89 LUIS CAÑAS CRIANZA 2011, RIOJA ($17.95)
From a top producer comes this equally exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon. Full bodied and elegant, it doles out cherry, plum, blackberries, cassis, vanilla, violets and earth. The palate shows sweet fruit and suave tannins, allowing for a decade of cellaring. (ES)
89 BOESCHENDAL 1685 S&M 2013, SIMONSBERG PAARL ($19.95)
Dark cherry and spice on the nose are followed by ripe rounded flavours of cherry, plum and hints of blackberry, finishing with harmoniously integrated fruit, spice and a splash of dark chocolate. (SW)
All jokes of Fifty Shades of Grey aside, S&M is a Rhône blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre. Full bodied, there is lots of oaky mocha and vanilla rubbing shoulders with raspberry, dark cherry, blackberry, black pepper and game. Lengthy, there is a creamy texture, which rounds everything out. (ES)
NEW ZEALAND
SPAIN
92 GREYWACKE PINOT NOIR 2011, MARLBOROUGH ($49.95)
93 SONSIERRA CRIANZA 2008, DOC RIOJA ALTA ($13.50)
86 ILLUMINATI RIPAROSSA 2013, MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO DOC ($15.29)
A truly great wine from Kevin Judd, formerly winemaker at Cloudy Bay. Ruby-violet in colour with a nose of raspberries and a floral grace note; elegant and sensual on the palate with great balance. (TA)
SOUTH AFRICA
Clear deep plum-red. Aromas of blackberry, fig, coffee and vanilla from the American oak. Medium bodied. Despite its age, the fruit is still fresh-tasting, showing prune, cherry and raisin flavours. This should be drunk soon, preferably with rustic lamb sausage flavoured with garlic and lemon oil. Great value. (RL)*
92 KANONKOP PINOTAGE 2012, SIMONSBERG-STELLENBOSCH ($45)
92 VEGA SICILIA ALIÓN 2011, RIBERA DEL DUERO ($89.95)
Until about 5 years ago, the majority of Pinotage wines were bitter and ridden with loads of brettanomyces (leathery, gamey qualities). Today, as a means to gain favour with international palates, coffee Pinotage has taken over, a style that emphasizes 60 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
This is a keeper. Dense purple-black in colour, emitting aromas of black olives, bitter chocolate and plums. Full bodied and tight at the moment, it promises to be a magnificent wine with its deep, black-fruit flavours and tannic lift on the finish. (TA)
Medium-deep garnet with fine particles in suspension. Mature, forward nose of plum stewed with a bit of rhubarb, then seasoned with black pepper and some sweet black liquorice. Just medium bodied. Tastes of strawberry and cherry jam with good balance and a long finish. Drink now. (RL)*
A blend of 95% Tempranillo and 5% Garnacha, this wine delivers ripe red fruit qualities along with rose, black pepper, earth and roasted herbs. It is mid-weight on the palate with uplifting acidity and soft tannins. Ready to drink with red pizza or lamb chops. (ES)
89 TORRES CELESTE CRIANZA 2011, RIBERA DEL DUERO ($20.95)
A richly textured Tempranillo wine. Dense purple in colour with a nose of black cherries tempered with oak. Medium- to full-bodied, dry, elegant and firmly structured with a fresh acidic finish. (TA)
88 LA MAGDALENA SUEÑO TEMPRANILLO 2011, RIBERA DEL JÚCAR DO ($23.99)
Complex, spicy redcurrant and floral scents suggestive of violets on the nose move to characteristic varietal redcurrant and blackberry on the palate. Tannins are firm and dry,with good weight and a touch of chocolate, finishing very dry. (SW)
UNITED STATES 90 ETUDE LYRIC PINOT NOIR 2013, SANTA BARBARA COUNTY ($29) This Pinot has heft and you know you’ve got it on the palate. Dense purple colour with a spicy, black cherry nose supported by vanilla oak. Medium bodied, it offers a fruity, black cherry flavour; firmly structured with a lively acidic spine. (TA)
89 CLINE FAMILY CELLARS ESTATE GROWN PINOT NOIR 2013, SONOMA COAST ($22.99) Deeply scented ripe red cherry, straw-
berry and cinnamon evolve towards dark cherry, blackberry and a touch of milk chocolate in the mouth. Supporting tannins and acid are harmoniously balanced. Solid value in this price range. (SW)
89 DUCKHORN WINE COMPANY DECOY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, SONOMA COUNTY ($31.79)
Attractive varietal Cabernet nose reveals blackcurrant, blackberry, vanilla, clove and a whiff of green herb. Fresh blackberry and blackcurrant wrapped in silky tannins in the mouth. Medium weight and good overall balance, culminating in dark fruit and a light splash of dark chocolate on the long finish. (SW)
88 WHIPLASH RED WINE BLEND 2012, CALIFORNIA ($22.79)
An eclectic blend of 8 grape varieties led by Syrah and Petite Sirah and 100% aged in French oak, this offers enticing scents of wild berry, peppery spice and ripe plum. It opens up on the palate with lightly sweet blackberry and bramble berry flavours, backed by firm but approachable tannins and a splash of dark chocolate on the well-integrated, satisfying finish. (SW)
DESSERT 92 S MARIA LA PALMA SOFFIO DI SOLE PASSITO 2008, SARDINIA ($38) Loaded with aromas and flavours of honey, raisins and spice; great concentration of flavours and balance between sweetness and acidity, possessing an incredibly fresh finish. Ideal with semi-aged pecorino drilled with honey and sprinkled with finely ground coffee. (GB)
91 CHÂTEAU D’ARLAY VIN JAUNE 2007, CÔTES DU JURA AOC ($80/620 ML)
Vin jaune (golden wine) ages in oak casks under a veil of yeast that protects it from oxidation (like Fino Sherry, except not fortified). Made from the Savagnin grape, it’s dry, complex and unique with its notes of toasted almond/walnut, quinine and preserved lemon. A classic pairing with the region’s Comté cheese. (HH)
88 HENRY OF PELHAM SPECIAL SELECT LATE HARVEST VIDAL 2013, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($20/375 ML)
Vidal grapes from Short Hills Bench. Sweet and silky without the unctuous body of an Icewine, this is a great alternative for a lighter dessert wine. Perfumed florals, lemon curd, lychee, apricot and lime come together with potent sweetness, cut with pointed lime peel and gooseberry acidity. Pour alongside a vanilla or stone-fruit custard dessert. (TR)
BEER PICAROONS BREWING BEST BITTER, NEW BRUNSWICK ($5.49/500 ML)
Atlantic Canada’s oldest craft breweries, like Picaroon’s, specialize in traditional Irish, Scots and English ales — and this one is worth picking up. Pouring deep amber with copper tones and a fuzzy yellow head, this is a medium-bodied ale with a light, crisp mouthfeel. The sip is layered with biscuit, spicy hop and honey — and its spicy herbaceous notes last from start to finish, building with each sip. A light caramel and nutty backbone is just here for balance. Try with aged cheddar. (CL)
BRUNEHAUT BREWERY BRUNEHAUT TRIPLE GLUTEN-FREE, BELGIUM (PRICE VARIES)
Gluten-free beer usually leaves a lot to be desired. But that’s not the case with Brunehaut’s line of organic, (almost) gluten-free, vegan ales. Full, rich bodies and Belgian yeast’s signature fruity and spicy flavours dominate this Belgian brewery’s 4 gluten-free ales. This old-school Belgian brewery, founded in 1890, de-glutenizes its estate-grown barley malt and claims there are less than 5 ppm of gluten remaining in the malt. The triple is an 8% ABV beauty with light apple and pear aromas, a honeyed-fruit flavour balanced by a crack of white pepper, a hint of bittering hops and a knockout body that blows most g-free brews out of the water. (CL)
GOOSE ISLAND BREWERY SOFIE, USA ($9.95/765 ML)
Pop the cork off this Champagnesized bottle and serve in your red wine glasses to help the nose of this spicy, citrusy Belgian-style saison really pop. Made from a blend of beer batches — some aged in oak casks deliberately inoculated with wild yeasts, others fresh from the fermenter — giving the naturally fermented ale a slightly wild, barnyard-like acidity and funk. But the sparkling ale drinks more like a fine, complex Champagne with white pepper, bright citrus and orange-peel notes alongside a hit of rice-crispiesquare sweetness. Elegant and super food-friendly — pair with just about anything from Thai to Mexican to a grilled peppercorn steak. (CL)
CIDER WOODCHUCK CIDERY WOODCHUCK HARD CIDER, VERMONT ($13.75/6-PACK)
For a large-batch cider company, this Vermont maker sticks to its all-juice foundation, crafting a sweet, fruit-forward cider that offers a bit more complexity than its widely available competitors. Made by blending plenty of McIntosh with Northern Spy, Courtland, Ida Reds and other dessert apples, this deep gold, bubbly cider boasts a candy-apple sweetness balanced by racy acidity and a clean, semi-sweet finish. Sweet enough to serve with chocolate cake or caramel cheesecake. (CL)
WEST AVENUE CHERRY BEACH CIDER, ONTARIO (N/A)
This barrel-fermented cider was made with Niagara Montmorency cherries and aged for 18 months in oak barrels that were previously used for Pinot Noir. It shows a lively pale rose colour with rich aromas of apple, subtle cherry, citrus and a nice spice note. There’s a delicate spritz on the palate with an explosion of crisp apple, soft layers of cherry and spice with a clean invigorating finish. (RV) SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 61
WEST AVENUE NORTH BY WEST ICE CIDER 2013 (N/A)
Made from frozen juice and slowly fermented. It shows a beautiful deep amber colour and has a nose of caramel apple, honeycomb and creamy vanilla. It is luxurious on the palate with a thick, rich profile of baked apple flavours, cream and spice with sweet honey notes through the finish. (RV)
REVEL CIDER HOP X CIDER (N/A)
Cider maker Tariq Ahmed stumbled on this “mutant” Ontario-grown hop variety from Clear Valley Hops and he hasn’t looked back, creating this feral cider that is the wild beast of the cider world at the moment. Wow, what a nose of bright apple, funky hop notes, yeast, brioche, lanolin, fresh-cut hay and underlying Mandarin orange and lychee aromas. It has delicious baked apple flavours, slight effervescence, dry hops and a pinch of astringency on the finish. (RV)
SPIRITS MONKEY 47 SCHWARZWALD DRY GIN, GERMANY ($45/375 ML)
A recipe of 47 botanicals may sound suspicious to some gin purists, but in the case of Monkey 47, more really is more. Flavoured with fruit, spices, herbs, roots and flora from the Black Forest and bottled at 47% ABV, this lauded gin is insanely layered, expressing pine forest, tea leaves, fresh citrus and a woodsy persistence. Makes an excellent Martini but try it neat to grasp its nuances. (SP)
WOODFORD RESERVE RYE, KENTUCKY, UNITED STATES ($40)
Recently released in select markets, Woodford Reserve’s rye doesn’t sway from the brand’s trademark delicacy and balance. Intricate on the nose with fresh peaches and mint, orange peel, vanilla roiboos and hints of dusty silo. Engaging in the mouth, tasting of honeyed granola, sweet tea and dark chocolate with a long, methol-spiked finish fading sweet to dry and back again. An exceptionally pretty whiskey. (SP) 62 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
LAPHROAIG 10 YEAR OLD, ISLAY SINGLE MALT, SCOTLAND ($82)
Laphroaig, named for the “hollow on the bay” where the seaside distillery sprawls, celebrates 200 years of whisky-making heritage this year. Brooding, medicinal, deeply earthy and saline with an immense smokiness that doesn’t obscure a sweet oaked core and bright citrus notes, this 10-year-old whisky is what Master Distiller John Campbell calls “a benchmark style” for the house. (SP)
NEW YORK DISTILLING COMPANY DOROTHY PARKER GIN, UNITED STATES ($40)
A bold and beautiful expression of New American Style gin named for Dorothy Parker, celebrated New Yorker and big time gin lover. Distilled in Brooklyn with botanicals like hibiscus, elderflower, cinnamon and citrus, this gin has a bright and saucy nose of peeled orange, juniper and elderflower with hints of cassia. There’s a creamy sweetness on the palate intertwined with green botanicals, citrus, tart cranberries and spice. A killer cocktail gin worthy of the Parker name. Turn to page 19 for a Cherry Gin sour recipe. (SP)
TEQUILA OCHO LOS FRESNOS 2013, MEXICO ($45)
Developed by third generation master distiller Carlos Camarena alongside tequila expert Tomas Estes, Ocho is dedicated to showcasing terroir in tequila. Agaves are sourced from single ranchos (estates) and the tequila is released in specific vintages, which is highly unusual for a spirit. This brilliant blanco has aromas of ripe stone fruit, vanilla custard, flowers, sandalwood, tomato leaf and roasted agave, and drinks both sweet and dry. Vegetal flavours give way to peppery, caramelized agave, tropical fruit, dark chocolate and finish with dusty, dry earth. Excellent stuff. (SP)
PISCO CAMPO DE ENCANTO GRAND AND NOBLE, PERU ($50)
A bartender, a sommelier and a master distiller walk into a bar … In the case of Duggan McDonnell, Walter Moore and Carlos Romero, the punchline is a pisco voted best in the world. The
Grand and Noble expression is an incredibly aromatic acholado, or blend, of five different grapes with a nose of juicy pear, white flowers, mint, chocolate and citrus. Grapes are sustainably harvested and distilled only once according to Peruvian standards. After resting for a year, the spirit is bottled at proof (40.5% ABV). The outcome is a gorgeous and remarkably smooth eau-de-vie tasting of lychee, peppermint and creamy dark chocolate, grape must, bitter almonds and earth. (SP)
RUSSELL’S RESERVE 6 YEAR OLD RYE, KENTUCKY, UNTIED STATES ($40)
Blended from select casks chosen by father and son team Jimmy and Eddie Russell at Wild Turkey, this striking rye whiskey bridges brawn and elegance. The nose is a lively expression of the relationship between the majority grain and heavily charred new American oak: fresh-baked rye bread, spice and florals, hints of brine and a lurking farmyard funk rounded out with caramel and vanilla. Energetic on the palate, it bounds from citrusy notes of grapefruit and tangerine to dusty grain, oak and caramel. (SP)
ARDBEG UIGEADAIL, ISLAY, SCOTLAND ($125)
Ardbeg drawn from bourbon and sherry butts and bottled at cask strength (around 54 % ABV), this whisky lives up to its name — uigeadail connotes “a dark and mysterious place” in gaelic. There’s a lot going on in this intensely smoky dram that smells of sultanas, toffee, saddle, chocolate and overripe bananas. Creamy and mouth-coating, it tastes of sweet spices and dry leather cloaked in ash. Pour a glass (on ice or not) and cut a slice of pumpkin pie. (SP)
EL DORADO 3 YEAR OLD RUM, GUYANA ($25.95)
If El Dorado’s youngest expression were assessed blind, it might be hard to nail its hue. Rich and generous aromas of coconut cream and banana split that carry through on the palate with lingering spice. A lively cocktail rum, especially for classic daiquiris. (SP)
WELL NOTED 93 GARDET BRUT ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE NV, FRANCE ($37)
Copper-orange with lots of bubbles. Aromas of citrus, orange blossom and yeast. On the palate, there is crisp acidity with apple and lemon flavours and a touch of ripe blackberry. Drink now. (RL)*
94 DUVAL-LEROY FEMME DE CHAMPAGNE 2000, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($188.50) Champagne at its finest. Great balance between the delicate flavours and the vinosity. Still very fresh and elegant after 15 years; there is an impression of perfect integration of every dimension. Great length too. A real pleasure to drink. Made from 95% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Noir, all from Grands Crus vineyards. (GBQc)
89 CONSTANTIA GLEN THREE 2011, CAPE PENINSULA, CONSTANTIA ($21.95) This great-value, fruit-forward Bordeaux-styled blend doles out plum, dark cherry, smoke, game and iodine qualities. No need to cellar, so drink up with some barbecue. (ES)
91 TAWSE WINERY RIESLING ICEWINE 2013, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($35)
Concentrated lime cordial, apricot pit, brown butter and savoury whiffs of salt, lending interest and intrigue. Acidity is easily fresh enough to carry the silken palate of richly honeyed fruit, while citrus closes out the very lengthy finish. Try with foie gras. (TR)
91 ALOIS LAGEDER GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2012, ALTO ADIGE DOC, ITALY ($27)
Pale straw with pink highlights. Effusive aromas of rose water, cinnamon and Turkish delight candy. Rich yet dry on the refreshing, mouth-watering palate. Fresh peach, citrus and ginger flavours. Very long finish with spicy notes throughout. Delightful on its own. (HH)
90 WAKEFIELD ESTATE MERLOT 2013, CLARE VALLEY, AUSTRALIA ($18) Almost in the same class as this winery’s Shiraz. Deep ruby in colour with a cedary, blueberry nose supported by deftly-handled spicy oak. Medium- to full-bodied on the palate; dry, firmly structured and elegant. (TA)
92 CULMINA UNICUS 2014, OKANAGAN ($25)
The second release of the Triggs family’s pioneering Grüner Veltliner, from Margaret’s Bench, is a powerhouse of racy minerality with broad texture and a palate emphasized by citrus and schist-y notes with a lingering, peppery end. (TP)
89 COUSINO MACUL CABERNET SAUVIGNON ANTIGUAS RESERVAS 2012, MAIPO VALLEY, CHILE ($17.50)
Medium ruby. Red berry fruits, vanilla notes from the oak and a light perfumed touch. Medium-bodied, well-balanced; the fine tannins are less tight than most Chilean reds for a more elegant mouthfeel. Nice finish on the same theme. Ready to drink. (GBQc)
94 COS PITHOS RED 2013, SICILY, ITALY ($55)
Such a pretty wine showing a medium ruby colour, perfumy aromas of black cherries, earth and mineral with a depth of flavour; great backbone, abundantly elegant. Bright acidity, meat, earth, game, strawberry, currant and pepper combine seamlessly to a long, delicious, lifted finish. 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Frappato. Fermented in terracotta amphorae. (GB)
SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 63
DAVINE BY GURVINDER BHATIA
THE ROAD TO VERONA ... AND BEYOND
IT’S NO SECRET. I have a soft spot for Italy. When I first started in the wine industry more than 20 years ago, it was not a predetermined path that led me to take a special interest in this regionally diverse country. Instead, the wines of Italy found me. There is an allure to, and I am fascinated by, the hundreds of indigenous grape varieties (over 500 that have been genetically identified and an equal number yet to be identified); the regional diversity (Italy was only unified as a country just over 150 years ago); the intricacies (and sometime frustrations) of the wine producing regulations and the perceived confusion in deciphering Italian wine labels. But it’s more than just the wines. I love the food, the culture, the history, the people and that each of the country’s 20 regions are so culturally and gastronomically distinct. I empathize with the Italians’ obsession with digestion. I can relate to their aversion to catching a chill and “getting wind” (my word) on their necks, backs and chests. I even get a kick when they mock you if you order a “caffè” containing milk (latte or cappuccino) anytime beyond mid-morning — which also relates to their obsession with digestion (milk fat is hard to digest). I once ordered a caffè macchiato after dinner and was mocked relentlessly by my Sardinian hosts. Suffice it to say, I never made that mistake again. Over the past 15 years, I’ve been to Italy on 30-plus occasions and travelled extensively throughout much of the country. My wife and I were married in Italy. I’ve always believed that wine gets its context from the people, place, culture and history of its origins. There may not be a country that better exemplifies this than Italy. 64 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
So when VinItaly International Academy (VIA) announced that it was accepting applications for a course to certify Italian wine ambassadors, how could I resist? I, along with 54 other selected candidates from 17 countries, gathered in Verona earlier this year for a weeklong program of lectures and tastings led by Dr Ian d’Agata, VinItaly’s Scientific Director and one of, if not THE world’s most knowledgeable and insightful authority on Italian wine. The purpose of the course was clear from the onset: to create a global network of wine professionals to educate and promote the quality and diversity of Italian wines using consistent and accurate information. The level of experience and quality of the candidates was impressive. Top professionals — sommeliers, retailers, distributors, journalists, educators and several Master of Wine candidates — from all corners of the globe, all with the expectation of passing the course and achieving either the Italian Wine Ambassador or Italian Wine Expert designation. Regardless of the individual’s background, it became clear quite early in the week that passing the exam was going to be much more than a formality and you would have had to have significant prior exposure to Italian wines to even have a shot. Dr d’Agata covered aspects of the history and culture of Italy along with more information of the science and genetics of grape varieties (biotypes, genotypes, phenotypes, ampelology vs ampelography, DNA testing, etc) than any of us anticipated. The exam, evidenced by the looks of anguish, stress, fear, anger, exasperation, disappointment and helplessness of the candidates while writing and immediately afterwards, was difficult, and it should be difficult if it is to have significance and
LEFT: Enjoying a meal with like minded Italophiles; BOTTOM LEFT: Dr Ian d’Agata leading one of the many lectures; BOTTOM RIGHT: Understanding the many nuances of Italian wine takes a lot of concentration.
credibility. In the end, 26 of us (the other Canadians who passed including me were Michaela Morris and Richard Sagala) were certified as Italian Wine Ambassadors (no one achieved the higher certification level at this inaugural course). But the VIA certification is far from the culmination of our journey. The study of Italian wine is a lifelong journey and as Certified Italian Wine Ambassadors, we have a responsibility to not just continue our studies on Italian wine, but to ensure that we have a clear and in-depth knowledge and understanding of Italian food, culture and history as it is from these that Italian wine gets its context. While I have very basic Italian language skills, I have set a goal to become fluent within a year (how could I be comfortable as an Italian Wine Ambassador without being proficient in the language?). Also, I am sure that many will re-sit the exam (I plan to) in hopes to achieve the next level of certifica-
tion (I also hope that the candidates who did not pass on the first attempt will re-sit the exam). Ultimately, we have an excellent role model in Dr Ian d’Agata. I have always had great respect for his encyclopaedic knowledge and insight, but it is rare that an individual is both so unconditionally generous with sharing and adept at conveying his knowledge. There is no one better to lead VIA’s educational program as there is not a higher benchmark for us to strive. So what’s next? I look forward to working with my VIA colleagues to establish accessible, enjoyable and informative courses, tastings and events in Canada and beyond. The diversity of Italian wines may seem intimidating, but it is that diversity that makes them so fascinating. Italian wines are simply an extension of the country’s food, lifestyle and history. What better gateway to experience all that this culturally distinct and diverse country has to offer than through wine? × SEPTEMBER 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 65
AFTER TASTE BY TONY ASPLER
FLY ON THE WALL THE FRENCH ARE NOTHING IF NOT PRAGMATIC. In 1953,
the winemakers of the Côtes-duRhône looked north to the Beaujolais region and saw that the system for differentiating quality made economic sense, so they decided to emulate it. It took 13 years of politicking before their regulations were set in place. (I would have loved to be a fly on the wall at those negotiations.) Beaujolais had its own unique class structure originally established in 1936: in the flat southern part of the region, you have your generic Beaujolais, grown in sandstone or clay and limestone. In the hilly north, the soils are granite or schist on the upper slopes, and stone and clay soils on the lower slopes. In the north, whose soils produce more complex, structured wines, you have Beaujolais-Villages — wines from a single vineyard or commune. Then at the top of the quality pyramid you have the 10 villages whose names appear on the label without the designation “Beaujolais,” which separates them from the pack: from north to south, they are St Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly and Côte de Brouilly. They’re known collectively as the Beaujolais crus. Here, the term cru encompasses an entire wine-producing area rather than a single vineyard as it does in, for example, Bordeaux. Both Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages can, by law, produce Beaujolais Nouveau whereas the regulations do not permit St Amour et al to be produced as a new wine. Though with the fading popularity of this fruity, aging cheerleader of a wine, the point may well become academic. While Beaujolais, like its Burgundy neighbour, has simply one black grape to contend with (Gamay in Beaujolais, Pinot Noir in Burgundy), Côtes-du-Rhône has 10 permitted black varieties: Brun Argenté, Carignan, Cinsault, Counoise, Grenache Noir, Muscardin, Mourvèdre, Picpoul Noir, Syrah and Terret Noir. So, following the Beaujolais model, you have generic Côtes-du-Rhône, Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages and the top quality, the named villages of which there are now 18. The list is too long to enumerate here but the most famous of them are Cairanne, Chusclan, Laudun, Saint-Maurice-sur-Eygues, Séguret and Sablét. (Gigondas was part of the original group but in 1971 it was elevated to the status Appellation d’Origine
66 × @QUENCH_MAG × SEPTEMBER 2015
Controlée. Vacqueyras, also an early member of the club, was given its own AOC in 1990.) To use the term Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages, vintners must adhere to stricter regulations than those governing the production of simpler Côtes-du-Rhône. For red wines, Grenache must make up at least 50 percent of the blend along with 20 percent Syrah and/or Mourvèdre. They can then use up to 20 per ent of other sanctioned varieties. Their rosés must contain the same amounts of black grapes as the red wines but not more than 20 percent of white varieties (of which there are eight — everything is big in the Rhône). The minimum alcoholic strength of the wines must be 12 percent, one degree higher than generic Côtes-du-Rhône. How does all this translate into the taste of the wine? I had the opportunity recently to compare two wines made by Louis Bernard from the 2013 vintage — Côtes-du-Rhône and a Côtesdu-Rhône-Villages. The generic Côtes-du-Rhône was deep ruby in colour with a black raspberry nose threaded with a mineral note and carried on vanilla oak. The Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages was deeper in colour with a raspberry and pencil lead bouquet, richer and firmer on the palate with an earthy note but with the same intensity of vanilla oak. It reminded me of a Beaujolais on steroids. The price: $14.95 in Ontario, just a dollar more than the simpler Côtes-du-Rhône. So my advice is, given the choice, opt for Côtes-du-RhôneVillages. The extra cost is well worth it. × ILLUSTRATION: FRANCESCO GALLÉ, WWW.FRANCESCOGALLE.COM
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