Quench Cooks Italian by Quench Magazine

QUENCH COOKS   ITALIAN NANCY JOHNSON

THIS BOOK IS BROUGHT TO YOU BY

QUENCH MAGAZINE QUENCH IS A FOOD AND DRINK MAGAZINE,   AND SOCIAL NETWORK CURATED FOR THE   EVERYDAY GOURMET. FOR MORE ON QUENCH   OR TO SUBSCRIBE VISIT QUENCH.ME.

Quench Cooks Italian Nancy Johnson,   Food Editor, Quench Magazine

www.quench.me Published by Quench Digital Recipes and text © Copyright 2014 Nancy Johnson All rights reserved, including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form. Quench Digital and Quench Magazine are registered trademarks of Kylix Media.   Opinions expressed in this book are not necessarily those of the publisher. Art direction and production by Paris Associates To subscribe to Quench visit www.quench.me/subscribe-print-us/ ii

MANGIA, MANGIA

One of my earliest childhood memories is of my Italian grandmother making spaghetti sauce on a late Sunday morning after church. All up and down the block of her predominantly Italian neighborhood, the strains of crooner   Carlo Buti wafted from doorways as women donned aprons over their Sunday frocks and started the sauce. According to my grandmother, the sauce would be an absolute disaster without the help of Buti, known as   the “The Golden Voice of Italy,” on the hi-fi. I learned at an early age that Italian cooking, for the most part, is not complex. The goal of the Italian cook is not to wow the crowd with intricate recipes and elaborate tricks, but to cook simply with in-season, top-quality fresh ingredients. In many ways, Italian cooking doesn't really need a cookbook: Homegrown tomatoes with fresh mozzarella. A tender veal   cutlet, lightly sautéed and served with roasted broccoli. Linguine tossed   with garlic, extra virgin olive oil and Parmigiana Reggiano. Italian food is made to be shared. Gather your friends and family,   try a few of these recipes, and mangia! - Nancy Lucarelli Johnson, Food Editor, Quench Magazine

iii

WHY WE LOVE ITALY

“Everyone wants to be Italian.”

Every time someone finds out I'm Italian, their look softens and they start to

-Author Unknown

friends homes, soaked in good food, wine and fiery grappa. This is what Italy

speak almost nostalgically about the storied country. They’ve either been or have always dreamed of going. They talk of never-ending dinners at Italian evokes in people. It’s a dream for the everyday gourmet. Recipe books like this one help bring the best of Italy to your kitchen. It allows you to create the atmosphere those of us born into the tribe take for granted — minus the yelling Italian grandmother. So please take it all in as you are preparing these meals. Pour yourself a glass of your favorite wine and cook with all your heart. Then invite everyone who owns a phone to come and try what you’ve made. That’s what it means to be Italian.

- Aldo Parise, Editor-in-Chief, Quench Magazine

PRIMI

CHICKEN, FIG AND PANCETTA BRUSCHETTA SERVES 4

I am always looking for new ways to serve bruschetta, and I love figs. This recipe calls for fresh figs, but if not in season, dried figs work as well. This is a filling knife-and-fork appetizer that can also serve as a light lunch by adding one additional chicken breast fillet. If toasting the bread under the broiler, watch it closely as it goes from golden brown to burnt very quickly.

1. Heat a lightly oiled skillet until hot. 2. Season chicken with salt. Sauté on both sides until browned. Add 1/2 cup water and cook over low heat, covered, until cooked through, about 7 minutes. Remove. Drain pan. 3. Add pancetta; sauté until crisp. Drain and blot with paper towel. If using fresh figs, sauté until softened, then chop. If using dried figs sauté until heated through.

1 boneless chicken breast fillet

4. Thinly slice the chicken. Place two slices pancetta on each bread slice. Place chicken slices over pancetta. Sprinkle figs on top. Drizzle with balsamic vinegar, honey and olive oil, using more or less as desired. Garnish with basil. Serve immediately.

8 slices pancetta

MATCH: Serve with fruity South African Chenin Blanc.

4 fresh figs, halved or 1/2 cup chopped dried figs 4 thick slices Italian bread, toasted or grilled and   rubbed with 1 garlic clove 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar 2 tsp honey 2 tsp extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp minced basil 6

ROASTED PLUM TOMATOES SERVES 4

Nothing tastes better than a roasted plum tomato, bursting   with freshness and flavor. This is one of those dishes where a good-quality extra virgin olive oil makes a diﬀerence, so use your best. The garlic should be pushed between the tomatoes rather than scattered on top, which could cause it to burn. Roasted at high heat, plum tomatoes will hold their shape, while other tomatoes tend to disintegrate.

8 plum tomatoes, halved 12 cloves garlic, crushed with the back of   a knife and peeled

1. Preheat oven to 450˚F. 2. Place tomatoes cut side up in a baking dish. Place garlic between the tomatoes. 3. Drizzle oil over tomatoes; add bay leaves, salt and pepper. 4. Roast 45 minutes or until tomatoes are softened and lightly charred. Remove bay leaves. Garnish with fresh basil or oregano. Serve as a side dish or use for tomato sauce.

4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 2 bay leaves Salt and pepper, to taste Fresh basil or oregano leaves, for garnish

SALTIMBOCCA ALLA ROMANA SERVES 4

Long before I knew this dish was called “Saltimbocca,” which means “jump in the mouth,” I sampled it at my grandparents’ table. It was usually prepared by my Grandpa Lucarelli, a former cook in the Italian army, who seemed happiest at the stove or after dinner, when he sang Italian songs with his paesans over juice glasses filled with strong homemade wine.

8 sage leaves

1. Preheat oven to 300˚F. 2. Place a sage leaf and a slice of prosciutto on one side of each veal cutlet. Secure with a toothpick. Season each cutlet with salt and pepper. 3. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons butter over medium high heat. Sauté cutlets 2 minutes per side. Remove and keep warm in oven. 4. Deglaze skillet with wine, stirring up browned bits with a wooden spoon. Whisk in remaining 2 tbsp butter and return cutlets to pan. Heat through. MATCH: Veal works very well with Bordeaux.

8 slices prosciutto 8 thin veal cutlets 4 tbsp butter, divided 1/2 cup dry white wine

PASTA SALAD WITH PEPPERONI SERVES 6

I love pasta salad for dinner, but one of my major complaints is that it never seems to have enough dressing on it. I’ve solved this problem by making the vinaigrette twice — once to dress the salad and again later to pass at the dinner table. I also cut the vegetables to about the same size so no one ingredient stands out. I call it “diced” in the recipe, but the chef’s term is “brunoise” — meaning the veggies are cut to about 1/8 inch size. And finally, I let guests add the cheese at the table, since most cheeses do not do well sitting in a vinaigrette.

PASTA SALAD WITH PEPPERONI CONTD.

450 g rotini, cooked 1 cup mini pepperoni 1 sweet red pepper, diced 3 stalks celery, diced 1 cup minced red onion 1/2 cup sliced green olives Pasta Salad Vinaigrette (recipe follows)

1. In a large bowl, toss rotini, pepperoni, red pepper, celery, onion and green olives. Pour vinaigrette over salad and refrigerate 1 to 4 hours. 2. To serve, arrange sliced eggs around edge, mound tomatoes in the centre and dust all with paprika. Pass vinaigrette and cheese at the table. MATCH: Gamay is a nice match.

3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and sliced 1 cup diced cherry tomatoes Paprika, for garnish Shredded mozzarella cheese

PASTA SALAD VINAIGRETTE Make the vinaigrette twice — once to dress the salad   and a second version to pass at the table. The Seasoning Mix makes a little over 4 tbsp — enough for both.

1. In a medium bowl, whisk seasoning mix, vinegar and lemon juice. Whisk in canola oil. If desired, strain before serving.

2 tbsp Pasta Salad Vinaigrette   Seasoning Mix (next page) 1/4 cup cider vinegar 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice 2/3 cup canola oil

PASTA SALAD VINAIGRETTE SEASONING MIX

1 tbsp garlic powder

1. In a small bowl, mix spice ingredients well.

1 tbsp onion powder 1 tbsp sugar 1 tbsp dried oregano 1 tbsp dried minced sweet red and â&#x20AC;¨ green peppers (optional) 1 tsp dried basil 3/4 tsp black pepper 1/2 tsp dried thyme 1/2 tsp kosher salt 1/4 tsp celery salt

ITALIAN-STYLE ARTICHOKES SERVES 6

Artichokes become crispy and brown when cooked slowly   in an oil bath. Slightly flatten the artichokes as they cook to   help them grow tender. Take your time; the flavors bloom as   the artichokes brown. Have a glass of wine and keep a close   eye on the proceedings.

12 baby artichokes Juice of 2 lemons 2 cups olive oil Grated Pecorino Romano cheese, for garnish

1. With scissors, snip oﬀ the sharp points on the outer leaves of each artichoke. Cut the stems evenly so that the artichokes will stand upright in the pan. Slice oﬀ the top of each artichoke, giving it a flat top. 2. In a bowl, combine the artichokes and juice from the lemons. Cover with ice water and refrigerate for 2 hours. Drain and pat dry. 3. In a large skillet, over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the artichokes, stem side up. Cook until tender, turning the artichokes to brown on all sides. Once browned, cook for another 10 minutes. To crisp the artichokes, carefully sprinkle a little water over them. Continue cooking for 2 minutes. MATCH: Serve with Pecorino Romano and a light Riesling.

CHÈVRE, GARLIC AND SUN-DRIED TOMATO PIZZA SERVES 4 TO 6

Most supermarkets now carry exquisite, creamy goat’s-milk cheeses, which are wonderful as an appetizer paired with hot pepper jelly and a baguette. But when you’d like to try your hand at something a bit more substantial, try this pizza.

1 head garlic, broken into cloves and peeled

1. Preheat oven to 300˚F. 2. In a small bowl, toss garlic cloves with olive oil. Spread on a baking sheet. Cover with foil and roast 30 minutes or until softened and golden. Chop. 3. Now preheat oven to 500˚F. 4. Brush pizza crust with oil from tomatoes. Spread with chèvre. Sprinkle with roasted garlic, sun-dried tomatoes and mozzarella. 5. Bake in 500˚F oven for about 10 minutes or until cheeses are melted. Garnish with parsley. MATCH: Pizza with Prosecco is a fizzy, happy match.

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Purchased pizza crust 1 1/2 cups chèvre or other goat’s-milk cheese 1 cup sun-dried tomatoes in oil, drained (reserve oil) and chopped 2 cups shredded mozzarella cheese 1/4 cup minced fresh parsley

ITALIAN WEDDING SOUP SERVES 6

I made this Italian–North American soup for a family party, and since then the fam has clamored for it again and again.   Forming the meatballs takes time; they must be small enough to fit on a soup spoon. I usually turn on the TV and watch my favorite show while forming them. Acini de pepe means “peppercorn” and indeed, the pasta in this soup is about the size of a peppercorn. You may use pastini as a substitute. I don’t cook the pasta in the soup as it tends to soak up too much broth. I cook and store it separately from the soup. Doing so also makes it easier to dole out the desired amount of pasta into each bowl before ladling in the soup.

ITALIAN WEDDING SOUP CONTD.

1 1/2 lbs meat loaf mix (or a combination   of ground beef, pork and veal) 1 small onion, grated 2 cloves garlic, pressed through a garlic press 1 large egg, lightly beaten 1/4 cup fresh parsley leaves, minced in food processor with 1 tsp kosher salt 1/4 cup dried bread crumbs 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for garnish 10 cups chicken broth 2 cups fresh baby spinach 1 cup acini de pepe pasta, cooked according   to package directions

1. Preheat oven to 400˚F. 2. In a large bowl, mix the meat, onion, garlic, egg, salt, parsley, bread crumbs and 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese. Using a measuring teaspoon, scoop up a small amount of meat and roll into a tiny meatball. 3. Coat 2 baking sheets with cooking spray. Place meatballs on baking sheets. Bake in oven 10 to 12 minutes or until cooked through. Transfer meatballs to paper-towel-lined plates to drain. Pat each meatball with a paper towel to remove any remaining grease. 4. In a large pot, over high heat, bring chicken broth to a boil. Add meatballs. Lower heat and simmer, uncovered, about 10 minutes. Add spinach and heat through. Serve in bowls over acini de pepe, garnished with Parmesan cheese. MATCH: Pinot Blanc is a nice choice with the soup.

POLENTA SALAD WITH   GOAT CHEESE As a kid, I hated polenta. It was something my Italian dad liked, causing me to suﬀer (and not in silence) through polenta dinners and fried polenta breakfasts. However, after learning to make polenta at George Brown, I came to appreciate it. You could make this dish with homemade polenta, but prepared is the way to go when you’re busy.

1 roll prepared polenta 1 bag mixed greens salad 1 red pepper, seeded and diced 1 tomato, seeded and diced

1. Coat a cast-iron grill pan with cooking spray. Slice polenta into 8 pieces and transfer to hot pan. Sauté over medium-high heat, turning, until heated through and cross-hatched with grill marks. 2. Divide salad among 4 plates. Add 2 slices polenta. Scatter red pepper, tomato and goat cheese over polenta. Drizzle with Grainy Mustard Vinaigrette. (see next page) MATCH: A crisp Sauvignon Blanc would go quite well with the salad or try Albarino from Spain.

1 cup crumbled goat cheese

GRAINY MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE I love this vinaigrette and make it often. I use Pommery Moutarde de Meaux but you can use any good-quality grainy mustard. â&#x20AC;¨ I actually have gone back to using Pommery because there really is no substitute. Expensive or not, it's worth it.

1. In a small bowl, whisk the vinegar and mustard. Whisk in the oil. Season with salt.

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar 1 tbsp Pommery Moutarde de Meaux or â&#x20AC;¨ other grainy mustard 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt, to taste

MUSSELS MARINARA SERVES 4

Mussels are the most versatile seafood and so inexpensive, you can make them for company without breaking the bank. Start dinner with shrimp cocktail, followed by a salad. For bigger appetites, add more mussels.

1. In Dutch oven, sautĂŠ shallots in olive oil until softened. Add garlic; sautĂŠ one minute. Add mussels, tomatoes and wine. Cover. 2. Cook over medium-high heat about 10 minutes or until mussels open. Discard any unopened shells. Serve in shallow bowls with baguette to soak up the juices. MATCH: Chablis and mussels make a nice couple.

2 shallots, peeled and minced 2 tbsp olive oil 4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 3 lb mussels, cleaned 1 can good quality diced tomatoes with juices 1 cup dry white wine French baguette

RAVIOLI AND KALE SOUP SERVES 4

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve gotten into kale lately, which isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t as abhorrent as I thought it would be. It has a sort of broccoli-meets-Brussels-sprout vibe, if you can stand it. Substitute spinach if you prefer a milder flavor.

1 tbsp olive oil 1 small onion, minced 3 carrots, peeled, halved lengthwise and sliced 3 stalks celery, sliced 1 tsp dried thyme 8 cups chicken broth

1. In a large pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion, carrots, celery and thyme. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened. 2. Add broth. Increase heat to high. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until carrots are cooked through. Bring back to a boil. Add ravioli. 3. Reduce heat and simmer until ravioli rise to the surface. Add kale or spinach. Cook until wilted. Season with salt, pepper and Parmesan cheese to taste. MATCH: Soave is a good choice for the soup.

1 package fresh small cheese-filled ravioli 4 cups fresh kale or spinach, cleaned and chopped Salt, pepper, grated Parmesan cheese

SAN FRANCISCO CIOPPINO SERVES 4 TO 6

Created by San Francisco’s Italian fishermen during the 19th century, cioppino is open to interpretation by the home cook. Use whatever seafood is freshest, or as those in the know might say, “Use the catch of the day!” This recipe calls for 2 tablespoons tomato paste. Freeze the rest.

SAN FRANCISCO CIOPPINO CONTD.

2 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, chopped 1 sweet red pepper, seeded and chopped 1 cup chopped celery 1/2 cup chopped fresh fennel 2 cloves garlic, pressed 1 tsp dried thyme 1/2 tsp dried oregano 1/2 tsp salt Pinch crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste 2 tbsp tomato paste 1 cup dry white wine 1 large can San Marzano tomatoes 2 cups clam or chicken broth 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice 1 tsp sugar 1 bay leaf 1 lb large mussels, scrubbed

1. In Dutch oven, sautĂŠ onion, red pepper, celery, fennel, garlic, thyme, oregano, salt and red pepper flakes in olive oil until onion is softened. 2. Stir in tomato paste and cook for 1 minute. Add wine, scraping up browned bits. Cook, uncovered, 5 minutes over medium-high heat. 3. With kitchen scissors, chop tomatoes right in the can to tidbit size. 4. Add tomatoes with juice, broth, lemon juice, sugar and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 10 minutes. 5. Add mussels and fish. Simmer, covered, about 5 minutes. 6. Add shrimp and simmer, covered, 4 minutes or until shrimp are pink and cooked through. Discard any mussels that donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t open. 7. Remove bay leaf. Serve in shallow bowls with crusty sourdough bread to sop up the juices. MATCH: Reach for Pouilly-Fuisse.

3/4 lb firm white fish, such as cod 1/2 lb large shrimp, shelled and deveined

SECO NDI

LAZY DAY TOMATO SAUCE SERVES 2 FOR DINNER OR 4 AS AN APPETIZER

Sometimes the simplest ingredients can result in the most delicious meal. This is a super-easy tomato sauce for quiet Sunday afternoons.

1. In a large saucepan, combine the onion, tomatoes, olive oil and salt. Bring to a boil, turn heat to low and simmer, covered, for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. 2. Add more salt if needed. Toss sauce with pasta and top with cheese.

1 large onion, chopped

WINE: Serve with Sangiovese.

4 cups crushed tomatoes 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 1/2 tsp sea salt Ricotta gnocchi (see recipe that follows) Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated

RICOTTA GNOCCHI When making gnocchi, keep in mind what my Aunt Maria would say: “Gentilmente con le mani” — a gentle hand will yield tender dumplings. For the record, in the region of Italy where my family lives, gnocchi is pronounced NYAW-KEE.

1 pound ricotta cheese (not low-fat) 1 cup flour Flour for dusting 1 tbsp sea salt Freshly ground pepper and Parmigiana   Reggiano, for garnish

1. In a medium bowl, mix ricotta cheese and flour with a wooden spoon until it forms a soft dough. 2. Dust table or large cutting board with flour. 3. Break ricotta dough into egg-sized portions. With hands, roll each into long ropes, about as thick as your ring finger. 4. With floured knife, cut into bite-sized pieces. 5. Bring a pot of water to a rolling boil. Add sea salt. Drop gnocchi into boiling water. When water returns to a boil, cook 3 minutes or until gnocchi rise to the surface. Carefully scoop out with a slotted spoon and place in a colander to drain. 6. Divide gnocchi among 4 plates. Serve with Lazy   Day Tomato Sauce. Garnish with pepper and Parmigiana Reggiano. MATCH: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is a nice match.

BOLOGNESE SAUCE SERVES 6

This is a wonderful meaty sauce that freezes well. One of the secrets of success is to mince the vegetables. This allows the vegetables to flavor the sauce and give it texture without making it feel like a stew. Don’t be afraid to add the milk and cream.   It removes the tomatoes’ acidy edge but is barely perceptible in the finished product.

BOLOGNESE SAUCE CONTD.

2 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp salt

1 large onion, minced

Pepper to taste

4 ribs celery, minced

1 bay leaf

2 carrots, peeled and minced

1 1/2 lb spaghetti, cooked

5 cloves garlic, minced

Fresh minced parsley for garnish

1 lb ground beef round 1/2 lb ground pork 1/2 lb ground veal 4 slices bacon, chopped 1 large can tomato paste 1 large can tomato puree 1 cup milk 1/4 cup heavy cream 1 cup dry red wine 1 tsp dried parsley 1 tsp dried Italian seasoning

1. In Dutch oven, over medium heat, sauté onion, celery and carrots in olive oil until onion is softened. Add garlic and sauté 2 minutes longer. 2. Add beef, pork, veal and bacon. Cook, stirring, until meat is browned. Drain away most of the oil, leaving a small bit in the pan. Stir in tomato paste and cook, stirring about 1 minute. Add puree, milk, cream, wine, seasonings, salt, pepper and bay leaf. 3. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer over low heat, uncovered, 1 1/2 hours. Serve over spaghetti, garnished with parsley. MATCH: Try Nero D’Avolo with this dish.

FETTUCCINE ALFREDO SERVES 4; MORE IF PREPARED AS A SIDE

Italians cook with in-season, top-quality fresh ingredients. Nowhere is this more evident than in the making of Fettuccine Alfredo. When preparing this dish, use the freshest and best quality butter and cream. And remember that nothing but freshlygrated Parmigiana Reggiano will do. Add cooked chicken, shrimp, scallops, clams or mussels to this dish for an elegant entrée. Pesto may also be stirred into the sauce for a savory change of pace.

1/2 cup butter, cut into chunks

1. In a large skillet, over medium heat, cook the butter and cream until the butter melts. Stir in cooked fettuccine with reserved pasta cooking water. 2. Add Parmigiana Reggiano and toss with tongs to coat. Transfer to a serving platter. 3. Season with salt and pepper. Grate additional cheese on top. MATCH: Soave would complement the creamy sauce.

2 cups heavy cream 450 g fettuccine, cooked and 1/4 cup   pasta cooking water reserved 1 cup freshly grated Parmigiana Reggiano   cheese, plus extra for garnish Sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

SPINACH, TARRAGON AND FETA CHEESE FRITTATA SERVES 4 TO 6

Years ago, I frequented a restaurant that made the best chicken salad I had ever eaten. I finally figured out the secret ingredient was fresh tarragon. Not only does it elevate chicken salad to a new level, it enhances many dishes, including this frittata. Tarragon has an assertive flavor that can overwhelm a dish, so always use sparingly.

SPINACH, TARRAGON AND FETA CHEESE FRITTATA CONTD.

2 tbsp butter 2 tbsp olive oil 3 scallions, sliced 3 cups chopped fresh spinach Salt and pepper to taste 12 large eggs 1 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon 1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese 3 tomatoes, sliced and baked until   softened, or sliced fresh strawberries

1. Preheat broiler. In a large broiler-proof skillet, melt 1 tbsp butter with 1 tbsp olive oil over medium heat. Add the scallions; sauté until softened. Add the spinach, salt and pepper. 2. Cook until spinach is wilted. Remove from heat and cool slightly. 3. In a large bowl, beat eggs. Stir in spinach mixture. Add tarragon. 4. In same skillet, melt remaining butter with olive oil over low heat. Add egg mixture, top with feta and cook over very low heat about 15 minutes until top is set and the frittata is cooked through. 5. Place skillet in broiler. Broil until frittata is lightly browned, about 2 to 3 minutes, watching closely. 6. Slide frittata onto plate and cut into wedges to serve. Serve with a side of sliced baked tomatoes or sliced fresh strawberries. MATCH: I love mimosas with this dish — sparkling wine mixed with orange juice, each goblet garnished with a sliced orange and strawberry “kebab.” 33

LINGUINE WITH RED CLAM SAUCE SERVES 6

Nothing is more delicious than linguine with clams.You can   use the reserved clam juice from the steamed clams or, if you want to be absolutely certain there is no sand in the juice, buy bottled clam juice.

6 lb clams, scrubbed 450 g linguine 6 cloves garlic, sliced 2 tbsp olive oil 1 can San Marzano tomatoes, drained and chopped 1/4 cup tomato paste

1. Steam clams in a large covered pot in 2 cups salted boiling water for 10 minutes. Remove and discard any that have not opened. Remove clam meat and chop into large pieces, leaving a few in the shell for garnish. 2. Prepare linguine according to package directions. 3. In large skillet, sauté garlic over low heat in olive oil until softened. Watch carefully, as garlic burns easily. 4. Add tomatoes, tomato paste and red pepper flakes. Bring to a boil and simmer about 2 minutes. Stir in clam juice and simmer 2 minutes more. Season with salt. 5. Place linguine on large platter. Top with sauce, clam meat and basil. Garnish with a few clams in the shell. MATCH: Beaujolais works with the tomatoes and the clams.

Red pepper flakes, to taste 1 cup clam juice, strained through cheesecloth,   or store-bought clam juice 2 tbsp fresh minced basil 34

SHELLS WITH BROCCOLI, GARLIC AND SUNDRIED TOMATOES SERVES 4

Only the broccoli florets are used in this dish. Blanch and freeze the stems to make broccoli soup another day. Shell pasta captures the garlicky bits in its folds, but you can use rigatoni or fusilli. My Aunt Rena used to make a version of this dish with thick, chewy cavatelli, which can sometimes be found in the frozen foods section of the supermarket.

2 bunches broccoli, cleaned and stems removed 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 6 cloves garlic, pressed and minced 1 small jar sun-dried tomatoes in   oil, drained and minced

1. Cut the broccoli florets into bite-sized pieces. In a large pot of boiling water, cook the florets for about 5 minutes or until crisp-tender. Drain and pat dry. 2. In a large frying pan, in hot oil, over medium-high heat, sauté garlic and sun-dried tomatoes until garlic is softened. Add sherry, scraping up browned bits. 3. Add broccoli florets, salt and red pepper. Sauté until broccoli is lightly browned. Serve over shell pasta, garnished with slivered almonds and parsley. MATCH: Serve with Barbera d’Alba .

1/2 cup dry sherry Crushed red pepper to taste 450 g shell pasta, cooked Toasted slivered almonds and minced   fresh parsley, for garnish 35

GARLIC, PARSLEY AND TOMATOSTUFFED CHICKEN BREASTS SERVES 4

Ancient Romans used a salted fish sauce called garum,   believed to have enhanced the flavor of food much the same way anchovy paste enhances this dish. The paste is a good item to keep on hand as it infuses many dishes with “umami,” the elusive fifth flavor. Use this recipe as a starting point for many diﬀerent types of stuﬀed chicken breasts.

3 garlic cloves, peeled and   pushed through a garlic press 1 tbsp anchovy paste 1/4 cup chopped parsley 2 tsp olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste 4 chicken breast fillets, pounded to   1/4-inch thick and patted dry 2 plum tomatoes, sliced 2 tbsp olive oil

1. In a small bowl, mix garlic, anchovy paste, parsley, 2 tsp olive oil, salt and pepper. 2. Spread chicken fillets with parsley mixture. Place a tomato slice on one-half of each fillet. Fold each fillet in half. Use kitchen twine to hold folded fillets together if necessary. 3. Preheat oven to 325˚F. 4. Heat 2 tbsp oil in large skillet. Sauté chicken 2 minutes per side. 5. Coat a baking sheet with cooking spray. Place chicken on baking sheet. Roast in oven 15 to 20 minutes or until chicken is cooked through. Remove twine before serving. This dish is great with baked potatoes and sautéed zucchini. MATCH: Match the anchovy stuﬃng with a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. 37

SPINACH FETTUCCINE WITH PEAS AND PANCETTA IN SAFFRON CREAM SAUCE SERVES 2 AS A MAIN DISH; 4 AS AN APPETIZER OR SIDE DISH

Spinach fettuccine is a nice departure from the usual pasta and absolutely fabulous when paired with pancetta. This recipe uses peas in the winter but will easily segue to a spring dish with asparagus. I love making this quick dish on a cold winter night and eating it while watching old reruns on the telly.

SPINACH FETTUCCINE WITH PEAS AND PANCETTA IN SAFFRON CREAM SAUCE CONTD.

250 g fresh spinach fettuccine, cooked 3 tbsp butter 1 tbsp olive oil 8–10 slices pancetta 4 shallots, peeled and chopped 1/2 tsp saffron 1 cup frozen peas, thawed 1/2 cup dry white wine 1 cup heavy cream 2 tbsp snipped fresh chives

1. In a large skillet, heat butter and olive oil together. Add pancetta and sauté until cooked through and crisp. Drain on paper towels. 2. To same skillet, add shallots and saﬀron. Cook until shallots are softened. Add peas. Cook until heated through. Add wine. Cook for 2 minutes. Stir in cream. Heat through. 3. Pour sauce over fettuccine. Gently stir in pancetta. Garnish with chives. Serve with Romano cheese. MATCH: Very good with Pinot Grigio.

Grated Romano cheese

GARLICKY BRAISED LAMB SHANKS WITH FRESH TOMATOES SERVES 4

The secret to yummy lamb shanks is to sauté them slowly, browning on all sides. Don’t rush it; have a glass of wine while you’re cooking. This is delicious with buttered orzo.

4 lamb shanks Salt and pepper, to taste 2 tbsp olive oil 6 cloves garlic, peeled 1 onion, chopped 1/2 cup dry white wine 2 cups chicken stock, divided 2 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary 4 fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped 1 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1. Preheat oven to 325˚F. 2. Season lamb shanks with salt and pepper. In olive oil in a large skillet, slowly sauté lamb shanks over medium heat, browning on all sides until deep golden brown. Transfer to roasting pan. 3. Add garlic and onion to skillet. Add more olive oil, if needed. Sauté until softened. Add wine; cook 3 minutes more or until slightly reduced. 4. Add garlic-onion mixture to roasting pan. Pour in 1 cup chicken stock, rosemary and tomatoes. Roast, covered, for 2 hours or until lamb is tender. Add remaining chicken stock if needed. 5. Divide lamb shanks among 4 shallow bowls. Pour sauce over the lamb and garnish with parsley. MATCH: A Barolo would be an excellent accompaniment to the lamb and tomatoes.

VEGGIE RISOTTO SERVES 4

Not a vegetarian dish because of the addition of chicken broth and prosciutto, but brimming with healthful asparagus and spinach. Risotto seems fussy because you have to stand nearby, adding broth and stirring as needed. I usually call a friend and chat while I’m stirring. It makes the time fly by.

6 cups low-sodium chicken broth 2 tbsp olive oil, divided 4 slices prosciutto, chopped 1 bunch asparagus, cut into 1/2-inch pieces 2 large shallots, peeled and minced 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 1 1/2 cups Arborio rice 1/2 cup dry white wine 2 cups fresh spinach 1/2 cup shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano,   plus more on the side

1. In a large saucepan, simmer the broth over medium heat. Keep hot. 2. In 1 tbsp olive oil, in large skillet, sauté prosciutto until crisp. Remove and set aside. 3. Add asparagus to skillet. Sauté until tender, about 5 minutes; remove and set aside. 4. Add remaining oil to skillet. Sauté shallots and garlic until softened. Stir in rice. Sauté 1 minute, stirring to coat rice with oil. 5. Add wine and stir until absorbed, about 2 minutes. Add 1/2 cup broth to pan, simmer and stir frequently until nearly absorbed. Add another 1/2 cup of broth, repeating process until all broth is absorbed and rice is tender, about 40 to 45 minutes. Stir in asparagus and spinach. Heat through. 6. Stir in Parmigiano-Reggiano. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with prosciutto. Serve with additional Parmigiano-Reggiano on the side. MATCH: Semillon is a good accompaniment for the risotto.

PASTA GRATE’ SERVES 4 TO 6

Although this dish originated in my cousin Luisa’s Italian kitchen, she creates it using Dubliner cheese, a fine Irish cheese with flavors of cheddar, Swiss and Parmesan. If you can’t find Dubliner cheese, use sharp cheddar. When Luisa’s boys were little, they called this dish Italian Mac ’n’ Cheese and it is, indeed, a comforting gratin for cold evenings. For a delicious variation, add cubed ham or tender artichoke hearts.

1/4 cup butter 2 tbsp flour 2 1/2 cups milk Salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste 450 g ziti or penne, slightly undercooked

1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. 2. In a large saucepan, melt butter. Stir in the flour and cook 1 minute, whisking constantly. Add milk, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Cook until thickened. 3. Remove 1/2 cup of the sauce and set aside. Gently fold the pasta into the remaining sauce. Stir in the mozzarella, Dubliner and Parmesan cheeses. 4. Butter the bottom and sides of a 9 x 13 baking pan. Sprinkle bottom and sides with bread crumbs. Pour pasta mixture into pan, smoothing with a spatula. Pour the reserved 1/2 cup of sauce over the top, smoothing to cover the pasta. Bake until golden and bubbly, about 45 minutes. MATCH: Vidal Blanc works well with this creamy, cheesy casserole.

1 cup cubed fresh mozzarella 1/2 cup grated Dubliner or sharp cheddar cheese 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese Butter and dried bread crumbs for pan

ORZO WITH HAM AND PEAS SERVES 4

Note to self: no more 9-lb Easter hams. This recipe is a result of having too much of a good thing. The egg yolk lends this dish a creamy richness.

1 cup uncooked orzo 1 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp butter 1 sweet onion (such as Vidalia), diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1/4 cup white wine 1/2 cup heavy cream 1/3 cup chicken broth 1 cup frozen peas 2 cups diced ham

1. Cook orzo according to package directions. 2. In a large skillet, melt butter with olive oil. SautĂŠ onion until softened. Add garlic and cook 1 minute longer. 3. Add cooked orzo, stirring to coat 1 minute. Stir in wine; bring to a boil, lower heat and let reduce about 1 to 2 minutes. Add cream, chicken broth, peas and ham. Simmer over medium heat, uncovered, about 5 minutes or until peas and ham are cooked through. 4. Remove from heat; stir in egg yolk, cheese, salt and pepper. Garnish with chives. Serve immediately. MATCH: Riesling is a very nice match with the salty ham.

1 egg yolk 1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano Chives, snipped 44

ROASTED TUSCAN CHICKEN SERVES 4

Dried rosemary can sometimes feel like sharp pine needles   in a dish, but fresh is a whole diﬀerent story. This dish will   work with chicken breasts as well, but will require a slightly   longer roasting time.

1. Preheat oven to 400˚F. Coat a roasting pan with cooking spray. 2. Place the chicken in the roasting pan. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Scatter garlic and rosemary over chicken. Drizzle olive oil over chicken and add a bit of chicken broth to the baking dish. 4. Bake, uncovered, 30 to 40 minutes or until chicken is cooked through. MATCH: Pair with Canadian Chardonnay.

8 bone-in chicken thighs, skin removed 6 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 2 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary Olive oil Chicken broth

LUISA’S BOSCAIOLA SERVES 4 TO 6

Boscaiola (pronounced Bosca-YO-la) means from the forest. It’s made with items Little Red Riding Hood might have found in the woods, such as garlic, porcini mushrooms and pine nuts. For those who prefer a meatier version, add Italian sausage meat. The measurements below are just a guide. Use more or less of any ingredient depending on your preference.

2 packages dried porcini mushrooms 1 large can San Marzano tomatoes 2 tbsp olive oil 3 cups sliced cremini mushrooms 4 large cloves garlic, pressed and chopped 1/4 cup pine nuts 1 1/2 cups black or green pitted olives, chopped 1 cup dry white wine 1 small can tomato paste 1/4 cup liquid from porcini mushrooms

1. In large bowl, cover porcini mushrooms with boiling water. Steep for 30 minutes. 2. Lift porcini out of water; be careful not to disturb the grit that has drifted to the bottom of the bowl. 3. Reserve 1/4 cup of the liquid. If desired, pour the reserved liquid through a cheesecloth-lined strainer to remove any grit. 4. Pat porcini dry and chop. 5. Purée tomatoes in food processor. 6. In a large skillet in hot olive oil over medium-high heat, sauté porcini and cremini mushrooms until softened. 7. Add garlic, pine nuts and olives. Cook 2 minutes or until garlic is softened and pine nuts are lightly toasted. continued >>

450 g fettuccine, cooked 47

8. Add wine and cook for 2 minutes, scraping up browned bits with a wooden spoon. Stir in tomato paste. Cook 1 minute. 9. Add tomato puree and reserved porcini liquid. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer uncovered 15 minutes. If sauce is too thick, add a little wine or water. Serve over fettuccine. 10.Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Primitivo would go well as would a California Zinfandel.

RIGATONI   WITH BEEF TENDERLOIN SERVES 4 TO 6

This is a great way to stretch one beef tenderloin steak, although it can also be made with sweet or hot Italian sausage. I recommend San Marzano tomatoes because they have the best flavor and match nicely with the tender beef. Use scissors to chop the tomatoes right in the can.

1. In a large skillet, melt butter with 1 tbsp olive oil. Sauté the garlic until softened. 2. Add the tomatoes with their juice, salt and pepper. Stir in the wine. Cook over medium-high heat about 15 minutes. Add more wine if needed. 3. In a separate skillet, sauté beef in the remaining olive oil over high heat. Stir the beef into the sauce along with the pan juices. 4. Serve over rigatoni, garnished with cheese. MATCH: Serve with Chianti, preferably the old-style/ nouveau Chianti in the straw-bottomed bottles.

4 tbsp butter 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, divided 4 garlic cloves, minced 1 large can San Marzano tomatoes, chopped Salt and pepper, to taste 1 cup Chianti 1 beef tenderloin steak (fillet mignon) thinly sliced 450 g rigatoni, cooked Parmigiana-Reggiano, grated

DOLCE

LUISA'S MARMALADE CROSTATA This recipe is from my cousin Luisa Terrinoni Oriti.

2 cups flour, more if needed 3 eggs 3/4 cup butter, softened 1 cup of sugar

1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. 2. Place flour on large cutting board. Form a well and add ingredients into the well. Gently work into a dough ball. Dough should be soft, shiny and pliable. 3. Divide dough in half. Roll one half into round. Place on cookie sheet or pizza pan. Top dough with a thick layer of orange marmalade, leaving about a 1/2 inch border all around. 4. With hands, roll out long round strips to place crisscross over the marmalade, three in one direction and three in the other. Roll the extra dough over the lattice with the back of a fork. Wash with beaten egg and bake at 350˚F till golden brown.

1 tbsp lemon zest 1/2 tsp vanilla Orange marmalade 1 egg, beaten

CANNOLI FILLING Start this recipe the night before as the ricotta cheese   must be drained. Instead of vanilla, try a half teaspoon   of Grand Marnier. For a fancy presentation, cannoli ends can be dipped in chocolate chips, melted chocolate, candied fruit or pistachios. Cannoli are filled just before serving to prevent them from getting soggy.

1 cup whole milk ricotta cheese 1 cup mascarpone cheese 1/4 cup icing sugar 1/2 tsp vanilla 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon Pinch of salt 1/2 cup mini semi-sweet chocolate chips   or candied fruit, optional

1. Place cheesecloth in a colander or sieve, set over a bowl. Transfer ricotta cheese to colander. 2. Place cheesecloth on top of ricotta and press to extract whey. Refrigerate and let drain overnight. 3. In a large bowl, with electric mixer, mix ricotta until smooth. Mix in mascarpone, sugar, vanilla, cinnamon and salt. 4. Fold in chocolate chips or fruit, if using. Transfer mixture to a food-safe plastic bag. Refrigerate two hours. 5. Cut corner of bag. Pipe filling into cannoli shells. Serve immediately. MATCH: Limoncello or Grand Marnier will hit the spot.

1 package cannoli shells

PANNA COTTA SERVES 8

There are many variations of panna cotta (cooked cream). This one is probably the most fattening, using all heavy cream. You can try making it with half-and-half or whole milk but it wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have the same creamy mouthfeel.

4 cups heavy cream 1/2 cup sugar 2 tsp vanilla extract 4 1/2 tsp powdered gelatin 6 tbsp cold water Mixed berries such as blueberries, â&#x20AC;¨ raspberries and blackberries

1. In a large saucepan, combine the heavy cream and sugar over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until sugar dissolves. Add vanilla extract. 2. Coat 8 custard cups with cooking spray. 3. In a medium bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over the cold water. Let stand 10 minutes. 4. Pour warm cream mixture over gelatin and stir until gelatin dissolves. 5. Pour into prepared cups. Chill at least 4 hours and up to 24 hours. 6. Run a sharp knife around the edge of each panna cotta. Unmold onto serving plates. MATCH: Serve with mixed berries and a light Canadian Icewine or late harvest.

CREAM PUFFS WITH ZIA MARIA’S CUSTARD FILLING SERVES 6

Our Italian feasts always included homemade cream puffs.   I like to say making cream puffs is as easy as making instant mashed potatoes, although that might be a bit of an exaggeration. But they are much easier to create than you would think and they make quite an impressive dessert. Years ago, I filled my cream puffs with instant pudding; then my Aunt Maria taught me the custard recipe.

FOR THE CREAM PUFF (CHOUX) PASTRY:

2 cups water 1/2 cup butter 1/4 tsp salt 1 cup flour 4 eggs, at room temperature

1. Preheat oven to 400˚F. 2. In a large saucepan, bring water, butter and salt to a boil over high heat. 3. Turn heat to medium and add flour all at one time, stirring with a wooden spoon until mixture forms a ball, about 1 minute. 4. Remove pan from heat and set on a damp cloth. 5. Add eggs one at a time, stirring well after each addition. The batter will look almost curdled at first but will pull together as you stir in each egg. 6. Drop pastry onto un-greased baking sheet to form 12 rounds. Bake 30 to 35 minutes or until puﬀed and golden. Cool before filling.

AUNT MARIA’S CUSTARD FILLING This makes a delicious vanilla pudding as well. Just spoon into dessert cups and top with whipped cream.

4 egg yolks (freeze the egg whites for later use) 4 tbsp sugar 2 cups whole milk 4 tbsp flour 1/2 tsp vanilla, rum, lemon or almond extract

1. In a large saucepan, whisk yolks and sugar. Add milk and flour. Cook over medium heat until thick, whisking constantly. Whisk in extract. Cool. 2. Fill cream puﬀs just before serving. To fill, split each puﬀ horizontally with a serrated knife. 3. Spoon custard filling into hollow. Replace top. 4. Dust with icing sugar or drizzle with melted dark chocolate.

LA FINA

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