Tidings April 2012

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//features 20// Pie-eyed in portland

by John lee

28

A vibrant craft scene in Portland, Oregon.

22// all over it

by Evan Saviolidis

Jura — I am all over the obscure regions.

26// Reserved no more

by Gurvinder Bhatia

Awakening a new generation of winelovers.

28// Is your somme-

lier keeping a secret

by Carolyn evans-hammond 20 surprising tips from industry insiders.

33// Strongest suit

by Rosemary Mantini

Enjoying Icewine with food.

36// In Grained

42

by tod stewart

Whisky’s new character.

42// fava beans and a nice chianti by duncan holmes

Portugal’s fava bean connections.

46// Dishing out

by Robert hausner

36

Top ten chef tricks.

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//Ă la carte 7// Contributors 8// from the editor 11// Conversations Letters to the editor.

13// Simple Living Michael Volpatt

14// Umami

66

Joanne Will

17// Anything but

martinis

sheila swerling-puritt

18// Bon Vivant Peter Rockwell

50// must try Jaggit Bhatia

52// Davine

Gurvinder Bhatia

55// Bouquet Garni Nancy Johnson

66// final word

50

//notes 51// the mav notes

54// the food notes

An appetizing selection of food-friendly faves.

58// The Buying Guide

Tony Aspler

Top wines from around the world scored.

Argentina // p. 58 Australia // p. 58-59 Canada // p. 59-60 chile // p. 60-61 France // p. 61-62 Georgia // p. 62

55

Hungary // p. 62 Italy // p. 62-63 New Zealand // p. 63 luxembourg // p. 63 portugal // p. 63 South Africa // p. 63-64 spain // p. 64-65 United States // p. 65 spirits // p. 65

4 // April 2012

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+ more on tidingsmag.com

Follow us on twitter and tumblr Quenchbytidings.tumblr.com twitter.com/quenchbytidings features Ron Liteplo takes full advantage of the Alberta flat tax on wines. He delights in tasting obscure varietals and discovering new wine and food matches. He wishes he had more friends so he could open magnums more often.

Find out how to make leftovers the stars of your table.

Cooking school Discover crispy, lean and tender roast goose.

Wine Tasting club Come sample some Pecorino.

Learn Try these new recipes featuring Icewine.

blogs Get your food and wine fix, updated weekly. This month, Kitchen Mama lets you in on some great food buys.

British-born John Lee has been a Vancouver-based independent travel writer for 12 years. His work has appeared in more than 150 publications around the world, including the Globe and Mail, United Airlines Hemispheres, Los Angeles Times, Chicago Tribune and the Guardian. He has written 19 Lonely Planet guidebooks and his most recent accolade was a First Place for travel writing in the 2011 NATJA Awards. Follow his travels at www.johnleewriter.com.

Evan Saviolidis is the Wine Tasting Challenge Grand Champion, Instructor for the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers, and teaches wine appreciation courses in Niagara at WineSavvy. For complete information, please visit www.evanwinesavvy.com.

Plus!

Original recipes; a daily serving of

food and drink news and views; culinary tips, tricks and techniques.

Next Month In Tidings The sunny coast of Sardinia Sweet wine cocktails Top mixologists’ drink recipes Are we still cellaring wine?

A world of indigenous grapes

Nancy Johnson started writing before she could read, dictating her stories to her mother. Nancy’s love for cooking grew slowly, mainly because it involved kitchen clean-up. Eventually, she embraced her inner gourmet by attending George Brown College where she studied culinary arts, food media and wine. When she is not in her kitchen, she works as an editor at a Northeast Ohio magazine.

Wines of the Southwest (france, that is) Big Game eating ... And So Much More

tidingsmag.com

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//from the editor April 2012 Issue # 302

\\

8 annual next big thing issue th

a family affair

Editor-in-chief

Aldo Parise editor@tidingsmag.com

So much of our lives is spent in direct contact with a family. Now they may be from work, or the golf club or simply the group of people continuously congregating at your home. Semantics aside they can all be considered family.

You may not realize it but I’ve been editing Tidings for more than ten years now. And in that time we have definitely become a family.

Some of us get sick — more on that later — while others ebb and flow.

You can imagine that when I plan for the year I’m always excited to see who will engage in the tough subjects, who can we build a cover around, who can we count on.

You’ve all heard these names before. Tony, Rosemary, Tod, Gurvinder, Carolyn, Evan. They, and countless others, are the ones who make this magazine so interesting issue after issue.

But every once in a while we add some names. In the July issue we will be adding two new writers — look for a special craft beer section.

Then there is Ron Liteplo who, for the last two issues, has been gracing us with his light-hearted touch in the buying guide. And on page 50, Gurvinder’s mom, Jaggit Bhatia, shares with us a coveted family recipe. These are the members of our family.

But when one of those close to us has to take a sabbatical, we can’t help but feel saddened. So this issue goes out to Duncan Holmes who has shared his great humour and wit, while filling our bellies with a myriad of recipes. Feel better buddy, and we’ll see you soon in the pages of Tidings.

Contributing Editors

Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart Contributing food Editor

Nancy Johnson Contributing Lifestyle Editor

Rosemary Mantini Columnists

Tony Aspler, Peter Rockwell, Michael Volpatt, Joanne Will, Sheila Swerling-Puritt Contributors

Jaggit Bhatia, John Lee, Sean Wood, Harry Hertscheg, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Robert Hausner, Duncan Holmes, Carolyn Evans-Hammond Tasters

Tony Aspler, Rick VanSickle, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Jonathan Smithe, Ron Liteplo and Gurvinder Bhatia COPY DESK

Jennifer Croll, Kathy Sinclair web editor

Rosemary Mantini Creative by Paris Associates Art Direction

Aldo Parise Production

ww+Labs, cmyk design, studio karibü Illustrations & Photography

Matt Daley, Francesco Gallé, Push/Stop Studio, august photography Cover Design

studio karibü

Audited by

8 // April 2012

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conversations\\

Kylix Media CFO

Lucy Rodrigues Circulation

circ@tidingsmag.com Accounts

Marilyn Barter accounts@tidingsmag.com Advertising Representation Dovetail Communications

Senior Account Executive Jacquie Rankin: jrankin@dvtail.com 9 05-886-6640 ext 304 Sales Associate Amanda Jones: ajones@dvtail.com 905-886-6640 ext. 308 www.tidingsmag.com www.tidingseats.com Now in our 39 th year Kylix Media, 5165 Sherbrooke St. West, Suite 414, Montreal, Quebec, H4A 1T6, Tel: 514.481.6606, Fax: 514.481.9699.

Subscription Rates: Canada: $36 per year, $58 per 2 years, USA: $55 per year, Other: $75 per year.

Single Copies: $5.95.

Tidings, Canada’s Food & Wine Magazine, a registered trademark of Kylix Media, is published 8 times a year: (February/March, April, May/June, July/August, September, October, November, December/January).

Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. © 2012 Kylix Media Inc. Printed in Canada.

ISSN-0228-6157. Publications Mail Registration No. 40063855.

Member of the Canadian Federation of Independent Business.

Michael Volpatt’s seafood stew was a real eye opener for me. I had always thought that fish would be too delicate to stand up to brining. I just had to try it for myself. I omitted the sugar listed in Mr. Volpatt’s recipe, but followed everything else to the letter. What a scrumptious stew! It did take some effort to pull it together, but it was the perfect dish to warm us up after an afternoon of skating.

... I have no problem spending a lot of money on a great bottle of wine occasionally, but I can’t do that regularly ...

Sam Pontes, Montreal

Re: Peter Rockwell’s “Bon Vivant”. Mr. Rockwell seems to think that women expect chocolate and flowers on Valentine’s Day. I have news for him. As much as I love both of those, I would so much prefer to enjoy a good bottle of wine with my favourite person. Ok, diamonds would be nice, too.

J. Toma, email

In “Breaking the Cork Wall”, Gurvinder Bhatia misses one important point, at least for me. Price. I have no problem spending a lot of money on a great bottle of wine occasionally, but I can’t do that regularly.

The Italian wine Mr. Bhatia reviewed was much more reasonably priced than the Ontario wine. While I would love to support Ontario wineries more often, I find I just can’t afford to do so.

Barry Crenshaw, email

Tidings uses 10% post-consumer recycled fibres

I really enjoyed Rick Van Sickle’s “Can You Feel The Heat”. Rum should be fun.

So should wine, beer and all the rest of it, too, I’d say.

Linda Torres, Edmonton

Material chosen for publication may be edited for clarity and fit. Please e-mail your comments and questions to editor@tidingsmag.com.

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Simple living

by michael volpatt

My mother just had double bypass surgery, which was totally unexpected. Everyone in the family rallied to make sure she was feeling good, and I was summoned home to spend a few days with her and do some heart-healthy menu planning.

Having been on a diet for the last few months I had an idea of the types of food she should be eating, but I had never created recipes that were low in cholesterol and sodium. So my mother and I used the post-heart-surgery guidelines that the team at the hospital provided for her. We also turned to The New American Heart Association (AHA) Cookbook and revised some of the recipes to match with the flavours my mother loves.

Her doctors told her she should be eating fish at least twice a week. So we revised the salmon cakes recipe in the AHA cookbook, and this is what we created. Keep in mind that we tried to come up with foods that would freeze beautifully, and this dish is no exception. You can make a number of these ahead of time, freeze them in separate containers with a side dish, reheat and serve. All the while knowing that this is a heart-healthy dish.

1 1/2 lb fresh salmon filet (no skin) 1 1/2 tbsp of margarine 1 medium red onion, diced 20 whole wheat, low sodium crackers, processed in a food processor until fine 2 eggs, lightly beaten Egg whites from 3 eggs, whisked until frothy 2 tbsp capers, washed and chopped 1 red pepper, diced into small pieces Canola oil

1. Start by steaming the fish. Over the bottom of a sauté pan

with water, add the fish (you may have to cut it into two pieces), cover, turn on medium and let steam for 6 to 8 minutes.

2. Remove from the stovetop when cooked through and flaky and refrigerate until cool.

3. Take 1/2 tbsp of the margarine and melt in the sauté pan on medium heat.

4. Add the onions and sauté until translucent. Remove from the stovetop and cool in the refrigerator.

5. In the meantime, place the remaining ingredients into a large mixing bowl and mix well. Remove the fish and onions from the refrigerator, flake the fish into the bowl, add the onions and mix well.

6. Now form the mixture into palm-sized balls (you should end up with about 8 to 10). Cover the bottom of the sauté pan with canola oil (don’t use too much), turn on the stove to medium and melt the remaining margarine in the sauté pan with the oil.

7. Once heated begin cooking the salmon cakes until lightly browned on each side. If they begin to burn turn the heat down.

8. Let cool on a paper towel, serve immediately or wrap separately and freeze to be used as needed.

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bean there\\

umami

by joanne will

“You don’t live to be ninety-eight without having a lot in your head,” said Lotus Ruckle from her home on Salt Spring Island. That was three years ago, and we were talking about the origin of the Ruckle bean, a white kidney variety that has been grown continuously in British Columbia for at least ninety-five years and may be the only uniquely BC bean.

“It came from Ontario with the Harris family who came to Moresby Island. When Stanley Harris married Ella Ruckle, who was my husband’s aunt, Harris beans turned into Ruckle beans,” laughed Lotus. That was 1915, and given that the bean was likely grown earlier by the Harris family on Moresby (a small island southeast of Salt Spring), the Ruckle bean may have a century or more of history in the region.

The Ruckle Farm is the oldest working farm in the province.

Henry Ruckle started his Salt Spring homestead at Beaver Point in 1872. By the time Henry died in 1913, he had expanded his farm to nearly 1,200 acres.

His sons continued to work the land, and in 1930, nineteenyear-old Lotus Fraser, who grew up on a large farm near the Ruckles (and swore she’d never marry a farmer) married Henry’s grandson Gordon. The two moved into one of the homes on Ruckle Farm that year.

14 // April 2012

According to Lotus, they grew about one hundred pounds of Ruckle beans annually. “It would always be a potato sack about three-quarters full. Of course some years we had a lot left over, but we planted some anyway because we didn’t want to lose the seed.”

The Ruckles ate the beans often. “Nearly always if we had picnics or beach parties or so on. Somebody always produced a big pot of beans,” said Lotus.

There’s no easy answer to the question of whether the Ruckle bean is a distinct variety, according to Bert Vandenberg, a pulse crops specialist at the University of Saskatchewan. All the beans we eat — kidney, black, pinto and some thirty-two thousand other varieties — are a single species, phaseolus vulgaris, which was first domesticated in Peru and Mesoamerica and has since spanned the globe through human trade. Whatever variety it was that Stanley Harris brought to Salt Spring could now be extinct elsewhere, said Vandenberg. As well, the North Pacific coast may be so different an environment from where the original seed stock had grown that the plants that survive there today are the unique result of decades of natural selection.

Ultimately, says Vandenberg, it is people who decide what a variety is, and crops that have history with certain people or places are often given new names. The tradition goes back

to the origins of beans as a crop, when people in the valleys of South and Central America often had strong cultural preferences for beans that were only slightly different from beans equally well loved by their neighbours.

When grown side by side, says Dan Jason of Salt Spring Seeds (saltspringseeds.com), he can’t tell the difference between the Ruckle bean and the Walcherse, a Dutch white kidney bean that is itself listed as “rare” by the national seedsaving organization Seeds of Diversity. Jason keeps seed for some two hundred and fifty bean varieties, and has grown the Ruckle — which he originally got from Lotus and Gordon’s daughter — for twenty-five years.

“They’re a bush bean, a knee-high plant,” says Jason.

“They’re better dry than eaten fresh. When they’re brittle, you shuck ’em. They’re amazing to eat, without much embellishment.” He suggests chopped garlic and your favourite oil.

“They’re also beautiful in fresh salads, or in a three-bean salad with a darker bean and a lighter bean. Part of their beauty is their amazing translucent sheen.”

The Ruckle bean has few enemies. “They’re bug-free and drought-tolerant, almost care-free,” says Jason. He supplies about two hundred packets of Ruckle beans to his customers each year.

tidingsmag.com

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anything but martinis

a little bit green\\

One of the most appealing things about spring is watching those little chartreuse-coloured buds appear on the trees.

And before you know it, they turn into full-grown leaves.

Loved this line from Quentin Tarantino’s Death Proof: The bar owner, Warren (played by the director), serves a green liqueur to some customers. After they empty their glasses and ask what was just served, Warren says, “Chartreuse. The only liqueur so good they named a colour after it.” Another spring smile-maker is forsythia in bloom. Its yellow flowers can turn a grey day sunny.

All that fresh greenery puts me in the mood for chartreusecoloured Chartreuse-based drinks. This sweet herbal liqueur was created by Carthusian monks in the French Alps as an “elixir of long life” in 1605. Today, the secret recipe is known by only three monks from the order who swear a vow of silence.

The liqueur has been on retailers’ shelves for almost three hundred years. It’s made by macerating herbs in neutral alcohol spirits. The result is then distilled and aged for five years in oak vats. There are two varieties of Chartreuse produced: green and yellow. Each is made from one hundred and thirty different plants. Chartreuse Green, 110 proof, has an intense floral and herbal flavour with hints of citrus, thyme, rosemary and cinnamon. Chartreuse Yellow, only 86 proof, has a distinct citrus, violet and honey taste accented by liquorice.

Both Yellow and Green Chartreuse can be found in a bottling known as VEP (Vieillissement Exceptionnellement Prolongé), the same liqueur that is aged for a longer period of time. They have flavours similar to their younger counterparts, but you will find it more mellow. Hand sealed with a wax cork before being put to rest in a wooden box, it is labelled with a wax seal.

Chartreuse (especially Green) pairs wonderfully in recipes for seafood soufflés, desserts and chocolate. You can enjoy it chilled straight or on the rocks, or perhaps like the Swiss skiers, just a teaspoon dropped into a mug of hot chocolate.

+ Visit tidingsmag.com/drinks/ for more drink recipes

by sheila swerling-puritt

spring feeling 1 1/2 oz gin 1 1/2 oz strained fresh lemon juice 1/2 oz Green Chartreuse

Shake well in a cocktail shaker with ice. Pour into a chilled cocktail glass.

sunburst

2 oz Green Chartreuse 5 oz fresh orange juice Place chilled fresh orange juice in a tall glass with ice. Mix in the Chartreuse. Garnish with a slice of fresh orange. You can always add a straw as well for sipping.

daisy cutter 1 1/2 oz Luksusowa Vodka 1 1

oz St Germain oz dry vermouth 1/4 oz Yellow Chartreuse Place all into an ice-filled cocktail shaker and shake well. Pour into a chilled cocktail glass. Float mint leaves on top of cocktail.

spring frolic

2 oz Hendrick’s Gin 1 oz Yellow Chartreuse 10 fresh blueberries Place 7 blueberries into a cocktail shaker. Muddle. Add ice, then add the gin and Chartreuse. Shake well. Pour into a large chilled cocktail glass. Float the 3 remaining fresh blueberries on top of cocktail.

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#1 match and smelling cork\\

18 // April 2012

My final answer is to look at the cork if you don’t trust the restaurant or wine shop you’re patronizing. Some wineries, but not all, brand their corks so you might be assured that what you bought is what was really bottled if you eyeball the cork. Other than that, toss it and stick your nose in the wine.

When it comes to caps, they just keep the wine fresh and in the bottle. Smell at your own risk. ’Nuff said.

Are there any foods that match with every wine?

I asked a few foodie friends to give me some help with this question and they all came back with popcorn. WTF? Popcorn?

The only time I’ve ever eaten it is at a theatre, and who goes to theatres anymore?

In its defence, I jiffied myself up a bowl and what lightly salted and unbuttered popcorn lacks in personality it makes up for with its savoury side, which really does have an open mind when it comes to a wine match.

For the sake of argument I tried a few glasses of various mainstream single varietal reds and whites with a mouth full of popped kernels and they all married very well. Actually, sparkling wine was an even more impressive match with its mousey bubbles playing off the corn’s crunchy goodness.

That said, no one is eating popcorn as a main course.

For me, roast poultry is the ultimate food and wine combo.

Chicken is lighter, turkey fuller; either way the bird is the word when it comes to liquid-friendly grub. Lighter whites, richer whites, fruitier reds, rustic reds: the pairing goes on and on and on.

+ Ask your questions at bonvivant@tidingsmag.com

Illustration: Matt Daley/Shinypliers.com

When I open a bottle of wine, or am served one at a restaurant, should I smell the cork? What should I do if it has a screw cap?

Hear that? It’s the sound of me biting my tongue. I’m giving you a bit of a break on this question because at its core it is the wine world’s classic old wives’ tale and — like the career of Lindsay Lohan — it simply refuses to die.

Let me start by answering your question with a question, which I will then answer before your original question. Why in the name of whatever god you believe in would you smell a cork from a freshly opened bottle? The answer is, wait for it, there isn’t any answer that a person with an ounce of vino inteligencia should be buying into.

Corks smells like cork. That’s it. That’s all. There ain’t no more to the story.

If you have a concern about the wine you’re serving or being served, all will be revealed in the glass and not on the stopper.

Think the wine’s oxidized? Smell the juice. Worried about TCA (i.e. 2,4,6-Trichloroanisole, a.k.a. cork taint)? Smell the juice.

Why sticking the cork to your schnoz became synonymous with wine analytics I’ll never know. My bet is that Hollywood is to blame. I mean, how better to illustrate the pompous wine ass than by having him one-up the on-screen sommelier by taking a snoot full of cork and giving his thumbs up or down on what his fine-tuned nasal passages apparently perceive.

Another theory could be that the average wine drinker of the last century lacked the knowledge or chutzpah to make a quality decision based on the liquid and had to rely on something solid to tell them what was what when it came to a wine.

bon vivant

by peter rockwell

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Pie-eyed in

Portland It’s easy to believe that Americans only drink Budweiser. by john lee

Step into almost any south-of-the-border bar and the Missouribased behemoth’s neon signs and red taps dominate like noisy drunks at a frat party. But visiting beer nuts with more discerning palates shouldn’t despair: the US is plastered with lip-smacking microbreweries and one of its leading tipple towns is Portland, Oregon — or “Beervana,” as some glassy-eyed locals know it.

“This is a top location for beer drinkers. There are more producers here than in any other US city,” says Megan Flynn, editor-in-chief of Portland-based Beer West, a magazine covering the brew scene from California to British Columbia. “It’s a very eclectic mix: there are bigger brewers as well as nano-breweries producing everything from traditional ales and IPAs to experimental sours and barrel-aged beers.”

Along with its 40 or so breweries and brewpubs, Portland has a funky, student village vibe and a downtown full of indie shops and attractive older buildings. In this eclectic setting, my tastebuds were piqued for a tipsy visit with my ever-thirsty brother.

We kicked off with a liquid lunch at BridgePort Brewing Company. One of Oregon’s oldest, started in ye olde days of 1984, it’s in the Pearl District, a strollable neighbourhood of gentrified warehouses with several breweries.

Its brick-and-beam-lined double-level tasting bar was packed with chatty drinkers tucking into pub grub meals, including some families — many Portland watering holes welcome children until around 9 pm. But while most of the high tables were topped with pints, I opted for a US$8 sampler: eight small glasses placed on a laminated mat that tells you exactly what you’re quaffing.

20 // April 2012

The mildly fruity Blue Heron Pale Ale and smoothly malty ESB slid down easily — both are top-sellers — but the lip-puckering Hop Czar won my beery heart. It’s a brash, hop-packed IPA that slaps you in the face like the tail end of feisty fish.

“It’s a really punchy IPA,” says BridgePort brewmaster Jeff Edgerton. “This region specializes in IPAs — the hops are grown locally — and it’s hard to find a brewer in Oregon who isn’t a total hophead. But there’s also a lot of diversity here and if you can’t find a beer you like in Portland you’re not really trying.”

Determined to try harder than anyone, we weaved to nearby Rogue Ales Public House for round two. Famous for its bold bottle art and brews with knowing names like Dad’s Little Helper and Yellow Snow IPA, Rogue’s beers are produced in nearby Eugene. But its laid-back, fancy-free Portland bar housed in a historic former brewery building lures locals with its eye-popping chalkboard of more than 30 drafts.

Already slightly merry — BridgePort’s tasters were up to 7.5 per cent — I slid into a corner table and launched an overly chatty conversation with the friendly young server. She didn’t have to work too hard to persuade me to have another sampler; this one a US$8 fourglass set. My brother sensibly stuck with a single pint plus some water while I dived in as if I’d crawled through a desert to get here.

The bitter Double Mocha Porter and creamy Santa’s Red Ale were a little heavy for 3 pm, while the searingly hoppy Yellow Snow was delightful. My brother hated it, though: Oregon’s IPAs are like the blue cheese of the beer world, and their intense flavours are an acquired taste.

Instead, we agreed on Mogul Madness Ale as the winner; a smooth, copper-red citrusy brew that gave me a rosy-cheeked grin for the rest of the afternoon. At this point, it was easy to nod sagely over the Benjamin Franklin quote I found on the menu: “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Back outside in the sobering fresh air, we hunted down an early dinner to soak up the beer. Alongside its drinking habit, Portland has a celebrated street food scene with innovative carts colonizing empty corners and the edges of parking lots. Far from the dodgy hotdog stands that are the staple of many US cities, there were hundreds of tasty options, including everything from Thai and Mexican to Italian and Chinese.

We settled on spicy Japanese curries and, after a short hotel rest, it was back on the beer trail for an evening at downtown’s smallest and easily most charming watering hole. Stepping into Tugboat Brewing was like nosing into someone’s warm and lived-in front room: its candlelit walls were lined with books and board games, the tables were animated with groups of merry regulars and the barman was busy working the room as if he was hosting a party.

He stopped by our table to introduce Tugboat’s five ownbrewed beers, plus guest ales from the likes of San Francisco’s Anchor Brewing. Trailing him to the bar, I tried a free swig of Imperial Stout, a heady 13 per cent witches’ brew similar to liquid Christmas pudding, before settling on a crisp pint of Hop Gold. I chased that with a gratis sample of Farmers Brown: a strong, tongue-lacerating ale that puts hairs on your chest and the chests of everyone within a 10-metre radius.

Rising late the next day with a head that felt like a bowling ball on a pipe cleaner, we breakfasted at one of Portland’s other local legends. Voodoo Doughnut is a hole-in-the-wall that attracts long queues with its wacky treats: fresh doughnuts topped with everything from crushed Oreo cookies to Fruit Loops. One of its confections seemed oddly suited to hangover busting: a rectangular doughnut topped with maple icing and a rasher of bacon. It certainly took my mind off yesterday’s beer.

After an extended browse around Powell’s Books, one of the biggest bookshops in the US, and quick visits to the Portland Art Museum (with its impressive Native American art collection) and the Oregon History Museum (with its evocative photos of old town Portland), a little hair of the dog sud-

denly seemed in order. Which, of course, meant a visit to Lucky Labrador Beer Hall. A cavernous, canine-friendly tasting room lined with doggy memorabilia, including a No Barking sign, locals are encouraged to bring their pets here for sociable imbibing (including bowls of water).

Alongside a sampler of fairly mild brews (apart from a seasonal barley wine that proved hard to finish) we tucked into a late-afternoon pizza here before winding back to the Pearl District for an evening finale at Deschutes Brewery. Taking the beer hall approach even further, its massive room — lined with glossy wooden tables and heavy, totemesque carvings — was so packed that we had to wait for a table.

But it was worth it. From the US$6.50 six-beer sampler we consumed with our shareable Brewer’s Platter of sausage and cheese, the citrusy Hop City Imperial IPA was an early frontrunner. But the rich Super Jubel was the eventual winner. A sweet and spicy 10 per cent-strength winter ale partly aged in Pinot Noir barrels, it’s the ideal after-dinner drink.

“Most of our beers are traditional English-style ales,” says Deschutes’ assistant brewmaster Ryan Schmiege. “But the fullflavoured seasonals are more and more popular — people wait for them to appear throughout the year.” He encourages out-oftowners to be adventurous with their Portland quaffing. “If you want to try something different, the best approach is to know your tastes and then ask people for tips as soon as you arrive.” Or, like me, you could just sample everything in sight. •

travel essentials

Use the Beer Places link on Beer West’s website (beerwestmag.com) for Portland brewery and brewpub listings. The city’s popular beer festivals include April’s Spring Beer & Wine Fest (springbeerfest.com) and July’s Oregon Brewers Festival (oregonbrewfest.com). For trip planning information, see travelportland.com.

BridgePort Brewing Company, 131 NW Marshall Street; bridgeportbrew.com Rogue Ales Public House, 1339 NW Flanders Street; rogue.com Tugboat Brewing Company, 711 SW Ankeny Street; d2m.com/Tugwebsite Lucky Labrador Beer Hall, 1945 NW Quimby Street; luckylab.com Deschutes Brewery, 210 NW 11th Avenue; deschutesbrewery.com

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When a close friend of mine first heard of the inaugural Jura Wine Tasting in Toronto last April, his Twitter was ablaze with statements like “Jura — I am all over the obscure regions!”

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all over it

by Evan saviolidis

Just east of Burgundy, and slightly to the west of Switzerland, is the 80-kilometre-wide wine region known as the Jura. This secluded, mountainous land is probably best known, to most people, for its non-vinous exploits. It is the birthplace of Louis Pasteur, and home to a trio of renowned cow cheeses: Comté, Morbier and Blue de Gex. Wine-wise, the Jura has the distinction of being home to France’s very first co-op, established in 1906, the first AOC area, Arbois, in 1936, and of course, the address of Vin Jaune — France’s answer to dry sherry. Also, the global wine community owes a debt of gratitude to a Jurassian botanist, Alexis Millardet. He was the creator of the famous “bouillis bordelaise,” used to combat vineyard rot. And, even more importantly, he and his partner were the first to suggest grafting as a means to combat phylloxera.

In Montreal, where I grew up and started wine studies, Vin Jaune and other dry wines from the same area have always been plentiful. Even after I moved to Niagara in the mid-1990s, these wines were available at the LCBO. Sadly, due to the monopoly’s decision to shift purchasing towards a more streamlined and homogenously fruit-driven product, these wines fell out of favour.

A true pity! the Jura offers a selection of grapes and wine styles found nowhere else, making for both interesting drinking, as well as innovative food marriages.

The region itself only became French in 1678. Before this time it was under Spanish influence. European power plays of that time period did produce some interesting results. And because the Spaniards created sherry, there is a certain belief that the genesis of oxidized wines in the Jura stemmed from their rule. But there is no firm evidence to validate this hypothesis.

Prior to the arrival of phylloxera and WWI, there were close to 20,000 hectares of vineyards. Today, there are only 2000, planted on a mixture of limestone on the slopes, clay on the flatlands and smatterings of marl throughout, giving rise to four geographic appellations, two style appellations and five varietals.

chardonnay

Because of its proximity to Burgundy, it comes as no surprise that Chardonnay is the most planted grape in the Jura.

The best renditions are from a combination of hillside slopes and limestone soils, à la modèle de la Bourgogne. Both nonoaked and oaked versions exist. In regards to the latter, when applied, it is done so judiciously, so as to protect the integrity of the fruit.

savagnin (naturé)

The Jura’s singular white grape, and number two in terms of acreage, is Savagnin, which is also known as Traminer (but not Gewürz). It may be the only grape authorized in the production of Vin Jaune, but it is not solely restricted to said specialty. Late ripening, low yielding and high in acid, it has the capacity to produce interesting dry wines, as well as vibrant dessert wines.

Also, there are distinctions to be made with both white varietals, namely non-oxidized (labelled ouillé) and oxidized (nonouillé) versions, which refers to the fact that all barrels topped up to the eye (oeil) of the barrel are not oxidized, while those coming short of the eye are.

Historically, a high percentage of white wines from the region were oxidized, but sometime in the 1990s, a transition to a modern style of winemaking occurred. Today, both styles coexist. In the case of Savagnin, many producers will actually label their wine Naturé, the ancient name of Savagnin, when producing the oxidized version. There is also a wine christened Tradition, which is a blend of oxidized Savagnin and Chardonnay.

pinot noir

Without a doubt, this is the finest red varietal grown in the Jura.

The best are reminiscent of top Côte de Beaune, and once again, the limestone is the key to their success.

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Today, both oxidized and non-oxidized styles co-exist. In the case of the grape Savagnin, many producers will actually label their wine Naturé, the ancient name of Savagnin, when producing the oxidized version.

poulsard (ploussard)

In times gone by, the Jura’s most planted red was consumed as a table grape due to its pale colour and minimal tannins. Even after a week of hard macerations, it is a rosé at best. It is also susceptible to a plethora of viticultural issues. More structured versions come to life when blended with Pinot Noir or Trousseau. Classic aromas are of red fruits and flowers.

trousseau

Known as Bastardo in Portugal, this late ripening varietal finds success being planted on the warmest gravel soils with full sun exposure. Good colour, medium tannins, high alcohol and combination of red and black fruits are its call signs.

vin jaune

The secret to making Vin Jaune is late harvested Savagnin planted on blue and red marls. By law, the minimum alcohol content at harvest is 11.5 per cent, but in practice, most producers easily surpass this. The juice is then fermented in older barrels to dryness, but never fortified like sherry. Aging then transpires in low humidity cellars, wherein the barrels are never topped up, allowing for evaporation, and subsequently, the development of the famed voile (yeast film), which partially protects the wine from oxidation.

After six years and three months of aging, the wine’s alcohol rises to 15 per cent, and it develops the characteristic deep yellow colour and attributes of yeast, nuts, dried fruits and curry. It is then bottled in the squat bottle known as the clavelin, which has a standard volume of 620 millilitres — this is what is left over after one litre of wine ages and evaporates for 75 months.

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Of course, such a singular wine deserves an equally singular celebration, which comes in the form of the La Percée du Vin Jaune. The event, which has become France’s largest wine festival, welcomes close to 60,000 people during the first weekend of every February, when the yeast is broken and the wine from six autumns previous is withdrawn from cask.

vin de paille

Grapes for this wine are picked early to retain good acidity and avoid any rot which may occur with late autumn rains. The whole clusters are then dried on straw (paille) mats or racks, in well-ventilated rooms for a minimum of six weeks, until they desiccate. It is at this point they are pressed. 100 kilos of grapes will produce a miniscule 15 litres of wine, which will then be fermented until 15 to 18 per cent alcohol is achieved. The resulting sweet wine will then spend three years in barrel, producing a sticky spectrum of jammy fruits, prunes, honey, caramel and orange marmalade. These wines can only be fashioned within Côtes de Jura, l’Étoile and Arbois AOCs.

appelations the

arbois aoc

Jura’s most important region in terms of production is Arbois.

Within the 850 hectares, many soils exist, allowing for all styles and colours of wine to be produced. Within this area is the tiny town of Pupillin, whose name is spelled in white letters on the hill, like Hollywood. And the big star in Pupillin is Poulsard, with 70 per cent of all plantings being this fickle varietal.

côte de jura aoc

The second largest appellation follows the ground rules set about for Arbois; all grapes, colours and styles are in play.

l’étoile aoc

L’Étoile is the smallest region with a slim 60 hectares cultivated.

This appellation derives its name from two sources – the starshaped fossils throughout the soils, and the village itself, which is surrounded by five mountains, roughly forming the five points of a star. Chardonnay is the king, followed by the queen, Savagnin. Poulssard is authorized solely for Vin de Paille.

château-chalon aoc

crémant de jura aoc

The AOC may be produced anywhere in the Jura region and denotes a sparkling wine made in the traditional method.

Both white and rosé versions are produced, and all five grapes are authorized for use. For the white version, the law mandates a minimum usage of 50 per cent Chardonnay, and for rosé, Pinot Noir and Trousseau must comprise at least 50 per cent of the assemblage.

macvin de jura aoc

Macvin is a Mistelle/Vin de Liqueur, or, if you will, fortified grape juice. Like Crémant, Macvin is a “style” AOC, which may be concocted anywhere within Jurassian boundries, and all grapes are permitted.

Two parts fresh sweet grape juice are blended with one part Marc de Jura, a pomace (think grappa) based spirit, which has already been aged, in barrel, for 18 months. Once blended, the two are set aside to marry for 12 months before bottling. The final product will be sweet, with an alcohol content somewhere between 16 and 22 per cent.

The appellation of CC is a village perched on small mountain, surrounded by sloping vineyards. It is also considered the cru of Vin Jaune. Why cru? The combination of slopes with blue marl and stones helps to expedite ripening and give an extra dimension to the low yielding Savagnin grapes. Producers are also fanatical. In a great year, a meager 2000 hectolitres is produced, while in lesser ones, there is not a drop.

classic jura food and other possibilities

So what to pair with these wines? Locally, the classic dish served with Vin Jaune is, ironically enough, Coq au Vin Jaune; a decadent combination of free range Bresse chicken, cream, Vin Jaune and morel mushrooms. The version I savoured while in the Jura also had a pinch of curry added, to further bridge the pairing.

Otherwise, Comté cheese pairs perfectly for its nuttiness.

For Chardonnay and Savagnin, fondue and fresh water fish work extremely well because of the wines’ acidity. As for the reds and their natural propensity for delicacy, charcuterie, smoked sausage and duck are regional combinations.

Then again, do not restrict yourself. Open your mind and your palate, as there is too much versatility and diversity to restrict yourself to just one style of cuisine. These wines are made for food! •

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When I first got into the wine industry over 16 years ago, I did so because I believed that wine needed to become more accessible. There seemed to be an air of exclusive, hoity-toity pretension around the beverage creating a profitless aura of intimidation for younger consumers and wine novices. My how things have changed.

Today, wine bars are packed with 20- to 40-year-olds who are redefining society’s wine culture with their open-minded, unfussy approach to wine. Where their parents often put wine on a pedestal, they see it as a fun social beverage without the seriousness. They still want to learn about it, but without the stuffiness of the previous generation. In fact, I suggest that when the current generation reaches the same age as their parents, they will be more knowledgeable on the subject because of their willingness to drink outside the box.

The “box” is the Bordeaux, Burgundy, France in general, Barolo, Napa Cabernet categories of wines that many of the older generation of wine drinkers believe are the only wines worth drinking (even Napa Cab is relatively new to this category). To some extent that is understandable, as 25 years ago, the quality of many wines outside this category, particularly from New World countries, was not as good. But the fact that many of this group continue to hold onto this belief today is ludicrous, given the tremendous quality and diversity of wines being produced globally.

The Millennials’ and Generation Xers’ approach to wine may be due to a few factors. First, they were exposed to wine at an earlier age than their parents. Their parents grew up in an era where their parents drank cocktails and spirits after (and at) work (watch Mad Men) as opposed to wine. It wasn’t until

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the Baby Boomers got older that they started drinking wine. For today’s young adults, seeing their parents open a bottle of wine with dinner would not be an unusual occurrence.

Second, every generation holds a natural aversion to conform to their parents’ habits for fear of becoming their parents. As a result, they would not want to drink the same kinds of wines as their parents. And, significantly, the wines their parents drank are no longer priced affordably for everyday consumption. The cost of a first growth Bordeaux in the early 70s was under $20, compared to several hundred dollars today (even upwards of $1,000 per bottle).

And wine is definitely more accessible to younger consumers in formats and settings they can relate to. Check out Joel Gott’s funky videos on YouTube. Charles Smith with his rock ‘n’ roll “it’s just booze — drink it” approach, and the numerous wineries that are using social media to engage the up-and-coming generation of wine drinkers. The hard sell approach just doesn’t work on this generation.

The Outside Lands festival, held in Golden Gate Park in San Francisco, combines music, food and wine. This past summer saw over 100,000 people attend the festival headlined by Arcade Fire. But instead of the usual concert fare, restaurants of every cuisine had booths, there was a “food truck forest,” and most notably, there was a wine tent. Over 30 wineries were pouring tastes and glasses to a tent jam-packed with 21- to 35-year-olds who were having a great time discussing the fruit-acid balance, the differences in Cabernet from particular regions, the merits of California wineries trying to produce Italian varietals, and on.

They’re not intimidated by wine, they’re fascinated by it.

no more

by gurvinder Bhatia

And let’s face it, if wineries didn’t take this inclusive approach, their sales would be suffering. Their established clientele is dying off (literally) and the current generation of wine drinkers isn’t interested in the chi chi exclusivity of wine that probably attracted their parents. It helps that the next generation of winemakers and winery owners such as Gott share the same philosophies as their target markets.

This is clearly evident at Gott’s Roadside, a classic walk-up diner, owned by the Gott brothers in Napa Valley. They serve freshly made burgers, ahi tuna burgers, fish tacos, milkshakes, and so on, all using the freshest local ingredients and produce from their own garden alongside great quality and value wines in a casual setting. The philosophy is to demystify wine and put it into an everyday setting.

And the young wine-drinking consumer has responded, though their buying and drinking habits are considerably different than their parents’. Sam C., an early-30s financial planner, makes great money, loves to travel and loves wine and food.

His parents have a cellar filled with Bordeaux and high end California Cabs. He happily imbibes when his parents open a bottle, but isn’t impressed by “the show” each time his father retrieves a bottle and recounts the pedigree and current value of the wine. Sam says drinking the wine is a cerebral, somber experience. No one says much, but they all nod their heads as they drink, acknowledging the reputation of the wine, as no one would dare question the quality of a $700 First Growth Bordeaux regardless of how it actually tastes. The experience, he says, lacks enjoyment.

Sam and his wife buy wine based on what they like. They attend tastings and wine dinners, hold dinner parties in their home and love to travel to wine country. They mostly buy to drink, and while Sam’s parents’ cellar is upwards of 1000+ bottles, their cellar is about 100 bottles with wines from Italy, Chile and California, most in the $30 to $60 range. Their everyday wines are in the $20 to $35 range.

Manfred K. is under 40 and works in the industry at a conference centre. He loves to cook and loves wine. He likes to support small producers and makes an effort to “drink local” whenever he can. He doesn’t see the value in most $100-a-bottle wines, particularly when he can buy four to six bottles of really great quality and value wines for the same amount. He doesn’t have the budget to cellar many bottles, so instead splurges on the occasional special bottle. Manfred K., from my experience, represents the majority of the wine drinkers in their 30s.

Jason S. is 25 and thinks wine is cool. He and his friends have attended a few tastings, and are more intrigued by the story behind the wine than any of the technical blah blah like pH, amount of residual sugar, whether the wine’s been acidified, etc. Their main concern is that it tastes good, and he admits that on several occasions, he and his friends have drank wine right out of the bottle. They’re not trying to be disrespectful, they’re just having fun and enjoying themselves and they see wine as just another drink. He says that he and his friends are just as likely to drink wine while watching a hockey game (with all the accompanying junk food) as they are beer or whisky. While Jason says he would like to learn more about how wine is made and the whole “farming thing,” he figures that will just come as he gets a little older.

Jason’s girlfriend Julie admits she used to buy wine just based on how much she liked the label. She’s decided that she wants to learn more it, particularly because she loves going out to eat and she would be more comfortable picking a wine off a restaurant’s list if she knew a little bit more.

The next generation of wine drinker is not concerned with pedigree, they are not caught up in pretence, and they are much more willing to experiment with different grape varietals and wine styles than their parents. They believe that you can enjoy wine without over-intellectualizing it. They will happily drink from their parents’ cellars, but they would not buy those wines themselves. They see wine as fun ... which is what it’s supposed to be. The future of the wine industry appears to be in good hands. •

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Don’t you love Montreal? Had dinner there not too long ago at a little place called Garde Manger in the old part of town. Funky-buzzy atmosphere, attractive servers, excellent food and wine, and a palpable lack of pretence. And despite the 6:30 pm booking, the place was hopping. But, what about the food and wine?

by Carolyn Evans-Hammond I had the pan-seared duck breast with roasted fingerling potatoes, mixed wild mushrooms, melted Riopelle (a triple cream, hand-crafted cheese from Quebec), and seared foie gras. But what set it off was the sauce. An unctuous red wine and veal stock reduction. Magic. That tongue-lashing alone was worth the trip.

With it, I had a glass of Berretta Maremma Toscana DOC 2008 — a lively blend of 60 per cent Sangiovese and 40 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon from Italy. Earthy-cherried fresh-and-easy. Worked nicely.

My friend had the halibut, pan-seared and served on spinach with mushrooms and a veal stock sauce. With it, she sipped Château La Tarcière Muscadet 2009. Superb — unlike the usual bland and boring versions of this Loire style of wine, it was rich with extract and laced with stony minerality. Quite compelling.

Garde Manger doesn’t have a sommelier on staff, but because I’m trained as one, I could navigate the wine list well enough to make satisfying selections for us. Though even then, I would have preferred the ad-

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venture of being walked through the selection by someone with an intimate knowledge of the juice on hand.

Herein lies the value of a sommelier. A person, who is essentially a wine expert trained to select and manage a restaurant’s wine stock, knows the wine list well enough to be an expert on every entry. S/he can tell you what’s drinking well now, what offers the best value, and which wines go best with every item on the menu.

Let’s consider the facts: There are more than 6000 wine-producing regions in the world. Each region has hundreds if not thousands of producers.

Each producer makes several wine styles each year.

Vintage conditions change annually. And every wine ever made continues to evolve in bottle — for better or worse — at varying rates based on storage conditions, grape quality and style. It’s nearly impossible to know it all in detail.

So if presented with a wine list when there’s a sommelier in the building, it’s a no-brainer. Link up. But for the times you find yourself without one, I’ll share some of the things I learned in sommelier school.

Vintage charts

dictate good and bad wines.

Truth is, completely good and bad vintages don’t exist. Wine regions are vast geographic areas where weather varies. So some producers experience great conditions in so-called poor vintages. Also, a highly acclaimed vintage is no guarantee of quality because grape growing and winemaking practices influence the quality of the wine as much as weather does. Use vintage charts as a general guide only, if at all. Better rule is to buy from a reliable producer so the wine is less likely to let you down.

Myth: You only decant red wine. Truth: Many white wines of distinction, such as Sauternes or white Burgundy from better properties, also benefit from decanting because aeration brings out aromas and flavours.

Red wine can make fish taste metallic.

This happens when the iodine in fish meets tannin in red wine. To minimize the effect, choose low tannin reds such as Beaujolais or Pinot Noir with fish or seafood, or play it safe and go with white or rosé.

Don’t assume all the wines on a list are ready to drink. This means, if there’s a $100 Barolo from a recent vintage, you might find it’s a glass full of unimpressive hard work because it’s too tannic — a stoic, impervious, unresolved wine that’s completely unwilling to befriend you. Barolos generally don’t provide pleasurable drinking until about 10 years after their vintage date, and they don’t take kindly to impatience.

Some more modern Barolo producers are moving toward a style that’s ready to drink upon bottling — another reason to know the producer.

pairing food

When and wine, body not colour matters most. Body is the weight of the wine in your mouth and corresponds closely with the alcohol level. Fuller-bodied wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah go well with heavier dishes such as roasted meats, while lighter wines such as Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir go best with lighter fare such as salads and fish.

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If you’re going to a restaurant without a sommelier and it’s a special night, consider bringing your own bottle. Many restaurants now offer you the privilege to do so for a corkage fee. Call first.

Once you’ve chosen a wine on a menu, it should be brought to you unopened to view the label. Check the name of the wine and vintage to confirm they match what you ordered. Once you give the nod, the waiter will open it and pour you a tasting measure. The idea here is not for you to taste it to see if you like it, but to approve the quality of the wine — in other words, make sure it’s not flawed. So check to make sure the wine is clear rather than hazy, smells fresh and like wine instead of musty or otherwise nasty, and tastes equally clean. Once these things are confirmed, give the nod again and the waiter should fill the other diners’ glasses, then yours.

Wines in magnums age about one and a half times as long as the same wine in a normal-sized bottle. And wines in half bottles age more quickly than regular bottles of the same wine — in about twothirds the time.

When you’re serving an aged wine of good quality and expecting complexity, don’t pair it with fancy food.

Choose something simply prepared to ensure the wine isn’t upstaged. If you’re uncorking a mature Bordeaux blend such as Opus One 1999 from Napa, it would go better with a simple roasted prime rib roast, potatoes and steamed green beans than, say, a root vegetable and pear ragout with venison crêpes.

Champagne is a wine, not just a celebratory tipple. It works marvellously as an aperitif, a first course accompaniment, or both. Bubbly has the refreshing tartness to freshen the palate, making it a good wine to whet the appetite, and its toasty, biscuity flavours make it a lovely match for seafood, truffled eggs or even a plate of French fries. it’s a classic match for sautéed mushrooms.

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When thinking about wine and food pairing, remember to match the strongest flavour in the dish to the wine.

This dominant flavour may well be the sauce.

A traditional pesto penne works very well with the herb and nut flavours of Spanish Verdejo, for instance.

Chilling wine is a good way to improve the taste of a lesser quality wine. Chilling masks imperfections such as searing sourness, lack of complexity, or too little fruit. Conversely, over-chilling very good wine hides the subtle nuances of flavour that make it interesting and pleasurable.

Different decanter styles exist for different wines. To open up, a young wine needs more oxygen than an old wine, so a broad-bottomed decanter is best, giving the wine a larger surface area to be in contact with the air. On the other hand, an older wine is more fragile, so taller, slimmer decanters are best, exposing less wine to the air yet still offering a means to separate the wine from the sediment.

Q uality and

Tradition, from one generation to the next

Although red wines generally age better than whites because tannin is a preservative, some whites can improve with time in bottle. Riesling, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay can age quite gracefully if they’ve been made well and have sufficient concentrations of fruit. And top cuvÊes of Champagne can age for decades.

1106024_Cesari_tidings_Ad.indd 1

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Wine meant to be consumed young can start to lose its fresh, fruity appeal within about a year or so of bottling, so opt for recent vintages when buying relatively inexpensive wines and consume them quickly. This is a particularly good rule to follow when buying white and rosé wines because they deteriorate faster than reds.

The colour of wine where it meets the glass, which is called the rim, is the best clue to a wine’s maturity. As white wine matures, the rim turns from watery white to golden. And as red wine matures, the rim moves through a range of colours starting with purple, moving to ruby, russet, brick and finally brown.

You’ve heard it once, you’ve heard it a million times. Gewürztraminer and Asian food are a perfect match. Truth is this aromatic, fullbodied wine would overpower any of the mild cornerstones of Asian cuisine such as dim sum, tempura, or sashimi. It also lacks the palate acidity needed to stand up to the spicier or fattier fare of the region such as chilli-powered pho, green curry chicken, or Peking duck. Better selections for any of these dishes are highacid whites with restrained fruit such as Chablis, Champagne, Muscadet or Grüner Veltliner.

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Knowing when to drink a wine depends on your ability to detect fruit concentration, tannin, acidity, and alcohol — and the balance of these four elements. Fruit and tannin diminish as wine ages, while acidity and alcohol remain constant. So, a wine with more fruit and tannin than acidity and alcohol can improve with age.

Tannins and protein are a winning combination.

Wine tannins are attracted to proteins so, without getting too technical, a tannic wine may be too chewy on its own but will feel silky and full of fruit when taken with meats and cheeses.

Although cheese is usually paired with red wine, don’t discount whites. A milky mozzarella marries beautifully with the herbaceousness of Sauvignon Blanc; the buttered toastiness of white Burgundy is excellent with the pungency of Parmigiano Reggiano; and the sweetness of Sauternes absolutely salutes a soft, fresh goat cheese. •

Strongest

suit

by rosemary Mantini

Sir Wilfrid Laurier once proclaimed that the 20th century belonged to Canada. If the worldwide popularity of Canadian Icewine is anything to go by, I’d say his assessment is bang on. I had the opportunity recently to attend a pretty extensive tasting of Ontario sweeties. I was anticipating leaving with a sugar high. Instead, I walked out the door with a pretty keen appreciation for this complex sticky.

If Sue-Ann Staff, winemaker and owner of Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery in Jordan has anything to say about it, Icewine will dominate the 21st century, too. Traveling the world, she’s found that everyone wants to join in when Icewine is on the table. “It’s our strongest suit,” she says.

Ask for advice on how to match this sticky with food and you will no doubt be told that it’s actually a dessert in itself, or to at least pair it with something that’s less sweet than the wine, like apple pie. Sure, but consider this: Icewine shines when matched with savoury and spicy dishes. Ontario restaurants have latched onto a delicious new way of adding balance to any dish they create. “The key is really the [wine’s] acidity that makes it perfect for food,” says Jason Parsons, Executive Chef at Peller Estates Winery. »

+ Lots more Icewine-inspired tips, recipes and cocktails to be found at tidingsmag.com

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ricotta and tarragon mousse Makes 2 cups

Courtesy of Executive Chef David Penny, The Great Estates of Niagara, this recipe makes a nice change to cheese and crackers. Serve with crusty bread or crackers, and sip a cool glass of Riesling Icewine.

500 ml ricotta cheese Salt and pepper to taste 4 tbsp 35% cream 1 tbsp tarragon, chopped 1/4 cup confit shallots (recipe follows)

1. Combine all ingredients in a food processor and blend until smooth. Chill and serve.

confit shallots Makes 2 cups

16 1 1 1 1/2 4

shallots, peeled and sliced into rings cup olive oil tbsp salt tbsp sugar tbsp black pepper sprigs fresh thyme

chef’s tips

»» Pair Icewine with strong-flavoured cheese, like Benedictine Blue. You’ll find that the saltiness of the cheese brings out the wine’s fruitiness, and the sweetness of the wine mutes a bit of the cheese’s intensity.

»» Instead of adding honey to a dressing or glaze, try a tablespoon or two of Icewine.

»» Looking for the sweet taste of fresh fruit out of season?

Icewine will give your recipes a hit of citrus and summer fruits.

»» Thanks to the wine’s natural acidity, it can take the place of vinegar in vinaigrette.

»» Better yet, sip some alongside a spicy Indian dish. You’ll notice that the wine pulls out the complex flavours that underlie the heat. »» Want to impress that special someone? Try this: Poach lobster in-shell until it’s about 90 per cent done. Discard the shell, and simmer the meat in Icewine for a few minutes.

1. Place all ingredients in a deep sauté pan. Cover with foil and place in a 300˚F oven.

2. Bake for 1 hour until shallots are tender and sweet. Cool and store in an airtight container in the fridge. Shallots will last up to 2 weeks.

34 // April 2012

kir catharine Thought Icewine was for sipping straight? Try this cocktail developed at Niagara’s Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery. For a “Blushing” Kir Catharine, use a sparkling rosé instead.

3 oz Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Brut (substitute Champagne or sparkling wine) 1 oz Cabernet Franc Icewine Pour over a spoon to layer.

photo: Wine Country Ontario

taste this Note: Prices are for 375 ml bottles.

Jackson-Triggs Winery Proprietors’ Grand Reserve Gewürztraminer Icewine 2007 ($65) The grapes for this wine were pressed at -12°C and fermented in stainless steel, and it shows. Flavours and aromas are rich in petrol and guava with a hint of pineapple adding just the right acidity to leave you wanting more. Lovely with duck confit.

Pillitteri Estates Winery Gewürztraminer Icewine 2008 ($60) This one stands out from the others thanks to its mouthwatering acidity, and notes of ripe peach and mango on the nose. Tastes just like lemon gelato. Pair with sponge cake.

Cave Spring Riesling Icewine 2008 ($49.95) Golden hued with intense flavours of raisin, pear, apple and honey, it finishes with a hint of lemon that leaves you anticipating the next sip. Cellar until 2020 or enjoy it now with panettone bread pudding served with a dollop of crème fraîche.

Coyote’s Run Estate Winery Riesling Icewine 2008 ($39.95) Wow! This one is super citrusy with a nuance of stewed fruit on the nose. Apricot and lychee are complemented by an undertone of minerals and petrol. You will want to snack on best quality milk chocolate when sipping this one.

Inniskillin Winery Riesling Icewine 2008 ($69) What strikes me about this wine is its pronounced aromas of honey and apricot jam. Those elements carry through to the tongue as well, and are balanced with fresh flavours of lemon and lime. There’s a full mouthfeel, and enough acidity here to balance it all out. Pairs perfectly with lemon meringue pie.

Henry of Pelham Estate Winery Riesling Icewine 2009 ($49.95) I had this one with a frisée salad of candied salmon and French beans topped with a bacon and almond dressing. Notes of mineral, dried fruit and honey enhance the lovely salmon in the dish while slightly muting the bitterness of the frisée salad. Feel free to cellar this one for the next 15 years.

Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvèdre and Syrah.

Actually, Stratus is the first winery to include Mourvèdre in a sticky.

It lends just the right amount of acidity to balance out flavours of rhubarb and raspberry pie. Enjoy with a slice of black forest cake.

Tawse Winery Riesling Icewine 2009 ($34.95) Lovely tropical aromas are enhanced by a rich mouthfeel. That fruity sweetness is then balanced by flavours reminiscent of lemon meringue pie. Try it with sautéed scallops drizzled with a spicy chilli butter glaze.

Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery Riesling Icewine 2007 ($50) This is a very pretty wine. Pale straw colour with a low alcohol of only 8.3%, there’s lots of complexity here with aromas and flavours of sweet lemon, mandarin orange and acacia honey.

There are even underlying tones of mango and quince. This is a wonderfully alluring wine. Enjoy with spicy crab cakes.

Reif Estate Winery Vidal Icewine 2005 ($57) Fig, apricot and maple syrup entice the nose and the palate. The grapes that went into making this Icewine were harvested from 24-year-old vines, Reif’s oldest block. I had it with chipotle sauce spooned over a slice of slow-cooked pork shoulder.

Peller Estates Vidal Icewine 2010 ($54.85) This latest offering from Peller can also be found in a smaller, 200 ml size priced at $30. The classic aromas of wildflower honey, apricot, orange marmalade and lemon zest carry right through to the palate. Savour it in an Icewine martini or with Icewine poached pear.

Harbour Estates Winery Cabernet Franc Icewine 2008 ($74.90) Lovely aromas of strawberry, fig and caramel permeate right through to your taste buds. Try this one with chicken liver pâté on toast.

Hillebrand Winery Showcase Cabernet Franc Icewine 2008 ($85) Yes, the price is steep. But, this cherry-coloured Icewine with aromas of strawberry-rhubarb pie will have you licking your lips.

Drinking it is like eating a handful of ripe strawberries. It finishes with a crisp hint of red currant. Pair with black olive tapenade.

Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard Château des Charmes Winery Riesling Icewine 2009 ($65)

Strewn Winery Cabernet Franc Icewine 2008 ($59.95)

Harvested December 29th, there’s just the right amount of sweetness here to bring out undertones of fresh apricot and honey in aroma and taste. It’s delicious with Icewine chicken liver pâté and onion marmalade.

Cranberries, raspberries and tropical fruits on the palate complement aromas of stewed fruit and caramel. Pair with dark chocolate.

Stratus Vineyards Red Icewine 2010 ($39.95) This red is actually a pretty pink, indicating that the skins spent minimal time in contact with the juice. Stratus’ Icewine is a blend of

Vineland Estates Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine 2008 ($42) Displays a fresh aroma of field berries on the nose. Each sip tastes of strawberry jam tempered by a hint of tart cranberry.

Drink until 2023. Try it with Gorgonzola on crackers. •

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in The term “whisky drinker� conjures a certain visual. Stereotypically male and on the older side of young, he is often thought of as being somewhat well-heeled, enjoying his amber liquid (perhaps poured from a decanter sitting on a fireplace mantel or drinks cart) from a cut crystal glass, seated in a plush leather chair in the company of others of his ilk. Cigars may be present. Women typically are not.

36 // April 2012

by tod stewart

grained Of course, there are variations. Mention Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey and one is transported to a world of pool halls and Harley Davidson motorcycles. Canadian rye draws an association with fishing/hunting lodges and rugged, outdoor pursuits (or the equally rugged indoor pursuits of the college and university crowd).

How accurate these character types are is debatable these days. However, what cannot be debated is that, as a beverage that’s been with us since the 1400s, whisk(e)y (spellings differ depending on origin; Irish/American whiskey has an “e”,

while typically Scottish/Canadian does not) has remained largely unchanged.

However, we live in a complex world and distillers face the challenge of at once trying to retain their traditional customer base while enticing new, typically younger, imbibers into the fold. How are they doing this? What’s new with this old spirit?

scotland

Starting with the ever-popular blends that have traditionally been somewhat restrained in character when compared to single malts, there is a move towards upping the flavour ante. Brands like Islay

Mist and The Black Grouse use a higher percentage of peated whisky in the blend to add the smoky/briny notes typically found in island single malts.

When it comes to single malts, the word “natural” is cropping up more often.

Used in conjunction with whisky, “natural” refers — not surprisingly — to a product that has not been coloured, filtered or (in many cases) diluted. “The move to more ‘natural’ whiskies is part of the same trend as the move towards less chill filtering,” confirms Michael Cockram, Senior Global Director, Scotches, Laphroaig. “All whiskies are natural; however, the com-

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Mad Drinks The 300

This drink recipe was exclusively developed by Cutty Sark to help celebrate the 300th issue of Tidings.

2 shots Cutty Sark Blended Scotch Whisky 1 shot fresh lemon juice 1/3 shot pure Canadian maple syrup 3 dashes Angostura bitters Shake all ingredients with cubed ice, strain over fresh cubed ice in a short glass. Garnish with lemon zest.

Warm Old Fashioned 1 sugar cube 3 dashes Angostura bitters 1 orange slice 1 cherry Soda 2 oz Maker’s Mark Kentucky Straight Bourbon Place one sugar cube into the bottom of a cocktail glass and add bitters directly onto the sugar cube. Add the orange slice and cherry, and a splash of soda and muddle thoroughly. Remove the fruit remnants. Add Maker’s Mark, ice, and top off with warm water. Garnish with a fresh orange slice and a cherry.

Sherry Cask Manhattan

1 1/2 parts Canadian Club Sherry Cask 1/3 part sweet vermouth Dash of Angostura bitters Maraschino cherry In a cocktail shaker, combine Canadian Club, vermouth and bitters. Shake thoroughly. Serve in a chilled cocktail glass adding in the cherry before serving.

Maker’s Mark Peach Tea 1

cup Maker’s Mark Kentucky Straight Bourbon 1/2 cup peach schnapps 1 peach, sliced 1 1/2 litres prepared iced tea In a large, at least 2 litre pitcher combine Maker’s Mark, peach schnapps and sliced peach. Allow to “set” for at least 15 minutes. Add ice and prepared tea.

38 // April 2012

plete removal of more modern bottling techniques for many represents ultimate authenticity, even though the effect on the flavour can be marginal at best for some.”

“Originally, before the now common practice of chill filtration, malt whiskies would have been of a higher strength.

Once a whisky is above usually 46 per cent ABV [alcohol by volume], it is stable (non-cloudy) when it is non-chill filtered,” Cockram explains. “This, for some whiskies, can mean more body or flavour can be detected. However, it is very much down to the individual whisky and the flavour the master blender or distiller is trying to achieve. Often 40 per cent will be the best ABV to bottle at. As consumers have begun to seek out more individual malts and been prepared to accept higher costs, higher alcohol expressions more common to non-chill filtered whiskies are now more common.”

In any case, chill filtering whisky — much like filtering wine — is strictly about aesthetics (making sure the liquid is free of any cloudiness or haze). And though the actual effect on the aroma and taste can be debated, it certainly can’t be argued that the process is “natural.”

Artificial colouring is another practice eschewed by fans of “natural” whiskies. Caramel is regularly used to give spirits (among other beverages) a darker hue. It’s often (mistakenly) thought by consumers that the longer a spirit soaks in oak barrels, the higher quality it will be. And, of course, the longer soak will result in a darker colour.

A corollary to this has to do with the use of ex-sherry casks for ageing scotch.

Sherry casks have long been felt to increase the overall complexity of a whisky aged within. And obviously, any barrel that once held a rich Oloroso, Pedro Ximénez or other dark style will also impart colour to the whisky. But extended oak aging and the use of sherry casks don’t always guarantee a superior product (a woodier/fruitier one for sure), so adding colour to a whisky serves little purpose beyond deception.

Anyway … More “natural” whiskies — bring ’em on!

encing a resurgence in popularity. The reemergence of the whisky-based cocktail combined with the younger crowd’s gradual embrace of bourbon as being “hip” has resulted in new distilleries cropping up, as well as an expansion of the category to include a growing number of single-barrel and “small batch” versions.

The venerable Maker’s Mark Distillery has recently released its first new whisky in its 50-year history in the form

Another significant trend in the US whisky market has been the introduction of flavoured whiskies. Jim Beam (with Red Stag Black Cherry bourbon), Evan Williams (cherry and honey versions) and Jack Daniel’s (Tennessee Honey) are but a few of the big players that have jumped on the bandwagon. Sales have apparently been brisk and these concoctions have managed to appeal to both the female and other markets, but for whisky purists

ireland

According to historians and Wikipedia, the first written accounts of whiskey production came out of the Emerald Isle, where the term uisce beatha (“water of life”) eventually became Anglicized to “whiskey.” Typically the product of a triple distillation yielding a smooth, slightly sweet and fairly gentle style, Irish whiskey travelled a rather straight and narrow road with the country’s total output originally controlled by four companies, then two, and finally, for two decades, one.

The landscape shifted in 1987 when the Cooley Distillery fired up its stills. The first new Irish whiskey distillery to be set up in over two centuries, Cooley set about reviving historic brands and creating new ones, the most interesting of which (in my opinion) is the Connemara Peated Single Malt Irish Whiskey.

According to Cooley, the practice of drying barley (and heating homes) using smouldering peat was a common practice until the introduction of cheap coal led to its demise in the late 19th century. Cooley has revived the practice and the award wining, double distilled, American oak-aged and distinctly smoky Connemara is a welcome newcomer to Ireland’s whiskey portfolio.

united states

Bourbon, the world-famous corn-based whisky whose lineage can be traced back to Bourbon County, Kentucky, is experi-

John Campbell from scotland’s Laphroaig

of Maker’s 46 (the name refers to the number of attempts Master Distiller Kevin Smith made before happening on the ultimate formula). To create this unique whisky, Smith started with the best raw material he could find: namely, barrels of mature Maker’s Mark bourbon. The whisky is siphoned out and a series of ten seared oak staves are affixed to the inside of the barrel before the bourbon is returned to the barrel and left to mature, not for any specific length of time, but just until it tastes right.

(count me in), whisky flavoured whisky is still where it’s at. And for us, a more interesting trend is emerging: the increasing availability of American rye whisky.

Made from a minimum of 51 per cent rye grain, American rye is nothing new (George Washington’s Virginia estate, at the time of his death in 1799, was the largest producer of rye whisky in the country). However, there has been a renewed interest in its production that, in turn, has created an interesting alternative to cornbased bourbon. And speaking of rye …

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canada

“It is becoming harder to believe,” laments whisky guru Jim Murray in Jim Murray’s 2011 Whisky Bible, “that Canadian (sic) was once a giant among the world’s whisky nations.”

Indeed, when compared to what’s been coming out of the UK and US, the Canadian whisky scene seems rather sleepy. While it would be unfair (as well as inaccurate) to conclude no new, interesting and good whiskies are coming out

40 // April 2012

of our home and native land, it just seems that those from our domestic industry don’t seem to be creating the same buzz as their counterparts from elsewhere. However, 2012 will be the year things start to change, at least according to Cheryl Hudson, Brand Manager, Canadian Club & Bourbons for Beam Global Canada.

“This year will be an exciting one for Canadian Club and the Canadian whisky category,” she enthuses. “The brand has plans to bring new product innovations to

market that will help to bring excitement to the Canadian whisky category and appeal to new consumers. We’ll have more details and news to share in Spring 2012!”

Well, okay, I guess we can wait.

In the meantime, Canadian Club whisky has been getting more and more attention due in no small part to successful television shows. “Programs like Mad Men and Boardwalk Empire have certainly had a positive impact on brands like Canadian Club,” Hudson confirms.

“Canadian Club has been highlighted in both shows and was truly a key brand within the timeframes portrayed. Canadian Club, situated a mile across the Detroit River from the US, was a favourite of bootleggers during Prohibition, including the infamous Al Capone. And Mad Men, set in the 1960s, certainly depicted the drinking culture of the era.”

But with spiced and flavoured whiskies like Revel Stoke and Spice Box, clear whiskies (White Owl) and corn-based whiskies (Collingwood), some (okay, I), wonder if the Canadian whisky industry needs to decide what it really wants to be associated with. While most Canadian whisky is termed “rye,” very few are actually made from 100 per cent rye grain (Alberta Premium from Alberta Distillers Ltd. being the only mainstream Canadian to go this route).

This is unfortunate, as rye (as the Americans discovered) makes a style of whisky unlike any other. Here’s a Canadian whisky trend I’d like to see (yes, I know you’ve been holding your breath waiting for this): 100 per cent rye, nonchill filtered, without artificial colouring and bottled (if suitable) at full cask strength. Now that would be truly unique … and truly Canadian.

Whisk(e)y Notes:

Canadian Club Reserve Aged 10 Years (40% ABV, $25)

Fruity (pear) aromas with traces of vanilla, citrus and clove give way to a smooth, slightly viscous texture. The flavour combines a peppery spiciness with some fruity, vaguely honeyed nuances that wrap up into a long, gently spicy, vanilla-tinged farewell.

Canadian Club Classic Aged 12 Years (40% ABV, $27)

More restrained on the nose than the 10 Year Old, the Classic displays an interesting mix of nutmeg and candied orange peel. Silky, elegant and subtle with less overt peppery spice than the 10 Year, with a round, polished and approachable nature thanks (I suspect) to the additional years in cask and a slightly different grain mixture.

Canadian Club Sherry Cask (41.3% ABV, $35)

Matured for 8 years in white oak barrels before an additional finishing in ex-sherry casks à la certain Scotch whiskies, the CCSC is certainly not your “typical” Canadian whisky.

Whether or not you gravitate to this sort of style will depend on, well, you. Aromas of sultana raisin, marmalade, cocoa and a touch of vanilla segue into a palate that trades up on the raisin/caramel/toffee and down on the spice/grain/vanilla. Your call …

Sazerac Straight Rye (45% ABV, $50)

A Kentucky rye that delivers intense, peppery aromas combined with vanilla bean, new leather, toffee, caramel and some fruity/citrus elements. Warm and spicy on the palate with flavours of toffee, vanilla, mineral and tangy fruit; persistent caramel/vanilla finish.

Maker’s 46 (46.4% ABV, $50)

The 46th try was a charm for Master Distiller Kevin Smith. Intense caramel, crème brûlée, tangerine, cocoa powder and flower blossom aromas give way to a smooth, silky, viscous palate featuring warm toffee and fruitcake nuances; long, spicy finish.

Connemara Peated Irish Whiskey (40% ABV, $56)

Delicately peaty/smoky notes on the nose with some floral, honey, grain and biscuit elements. In the mouth the whiskey delivers distinctive smoky nuances but with a certain delicacy, all made more complex in the mouth via the interplay between sweet grain and briny sea spray elements.

Ardbeg Uigeadial (54.2% ABV, $165)

Pronounced “Oog-a-dall” and taking its name from the hill loch that supplies the peat-laden water to the distillery, this is a special vatting that marries Ardbeg’s traditional deep, smoky notes with luscious, raisiny nuances of aged ex-sherry casks. Cocoa powder, mocha and nutty raisin all appear in the aroma with the expected underpinning of peat smoke. Raisin pie, spice, sultana flavours usher in a long, smouldering finish.

Laphroaig Quarter Cask (48% ABV, $65)

Rather than trying to invent something new, those at Laphroaig went back to the history books for inspiration. Finished in smaller barrels (originally to accommodate the pack horses used to transport the whisky in the early 19th century), the ratio of wood to whisky in this version is increased and this is evident in the aroma which offers up hints of mocha, toasted barley and, of course, a noticeable dose of peat smoke. Warm and intense, the flavour profile centres around fruitcake, toffee and smoky/fruity ending notes. •

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fava beans nice Chianti and a

by

can bring. Allotment gardens are the same, except that in these earthen “condos without walls,” you learn to love Duncan Holmes your gardening neighbours — or you pick up your shovel, go home, and buy your veggies at the supermarket.

For no other reason than they were Round about the time that Hannibal (the Cannibal) wonderful people who knew an awful lot Lecter was enthusiastically dining on a census taker’s about growing things, I loved my garden liver with “some fava beans and a nice Chianti,” I was neighbours, attempted to emulate their sucking up fava bean lore from an affable Portuguese skills, and over the seasons, welcomed gardener called Miguel, who preferred to pair his them into my life as friends.

Almost all my neighbours were Porbeans with gentler fare. tuguese. Not from mainland Portugal, Miguel, his wife Maria, other Miguels, Manuels, Marias that western snout of Europe, but from the Azores, and I, were part of a complement of a hundred or so ama- a fascinating group of islands that pokes up from teurs and professionals who grew favas, other vegetables, the depths of the Atlantic, some 1500 km west of and a flurry of flowers in a community allotment garden the mainland. Whether it was from memories born in the southeast corner of Richmond, BC. We grew fare of centuries fishing for Grand Banks cod — another to feed our families, and flowers to adorn our homes. And 4000 km to the west! — or simply because they have the growing of these things, in the rich soil of the Fraser always been people who sought wider horizons, the River delta, was also food for the soul.

Portuguese have often found new homes in Canada.

If you’ve ever lived in a strata title development, you You may know some where you live, tasted their food, will know of the challenges that close-proximity living and been captivated by their generous personalities.

42 // April 2012

••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

The Manuels and Miguels grew favas, and other beans that climbed up tall, expertly constructed towers.

They grew potatoes and brassicas that, like the favas, over-wintered in the allotment, and were harvested the following year. The essential tool of the Azorians was a broad blade affixed to a short handle.

It is amazingly versatile, and most effective for just about anything that needs doing. They “double dug” the garden rows, seeming always to create easy order from nature’s seasonal chaos. And when the time came, their harvests were huge — barrowloads of beans to take home for drying and cooking all winter long. The same for spuds, cabbage, kale and vine-ripened tomatoes, all veggies they would have grown back in the Azores.

Between crops we would talk of tongue-tingling peri peri chilli, killer garlic, soups, stews, and all the seafood that is so much part of the healthy Portuguese diet. And when nobody was looking, we would share drafts of homemade red wine from a four-litre bottle, listen to the red-wing blackbirds, and praise nature’s generosity.

fava beans with a portuguese-style sauce Serves 6

No credit to Hannibal Lecter on this one. I found John Pacheco’s recipe at allrecipes.com, where you may wish to spend some web time.

5 3 2 2

¼

tbsp olive oil large onions, chopped cloves garlic, minced tbsp red pepper flakes cup tomato sauce

2 3

½

2 2

cups hot water tbsp chopped fresh parsley tsp black pepper tsp paprika cans fava beans (19 oz)

1. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Sauté onion and garlic until golden brown.

2. Stir in red pepper flakes, tomato sauce, hot water, parsley, salt,

pepper and paprika.

3. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Gently stir in fava beans.

4. Remove from heat and let stand for several minutes to allow flavours to meld. …… Dare we suggest a nice Chianti?

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•••••••••••••••••

portuguese paella •••••••••••••••••

Serves 4 to 6

With the bounty of the Atlantic out there to the west and south, it was a natural for the Portuguese to be seafood-eating people. Not from just around their shores, but (years ago) from as far away as the Grand Banks, where cod was caught and salted for the journey home. Combine seafood with chicken and other tastes from the land, it’s paella. I snaffled this recipe from food.com. A great mélange of flavours, one of which is the earthy and gorgeous saffron.

6 skinless chicken thighs (about 1 ½ lb) 1 tsp chopped fresh rosemary or ¼ tsp dried rosemary ¾ tsp salt, divided ¼ tsp fresh ground black pepper 2 tsp canola oil 1 link Portuguese chouriço, sliced in rounds 1 cup onions, chopped ½ cup red bell peppers, chopped 1 ½ cups uncooked Arborio rice or 1 ½ cups other medium grain rice ½ cup diced plum tomatoes 1 tsp sweet paprika ¼ tsp saffron threads, crushed 1 garlic clove, minced 3 cups chicken broth ¾ lb large shrimp, peeled and deveined 1 cup asparagus, cut diagonally ½ cup frozen peas, thawed

44 // April 2012

1. Preheat oven to 400˚F. 2. Sprinkle chicken with rosemary, 1/2 tsp salt, and

black pepper. Heat oil in a large ovenproof nonstick skillet or paella pan over medium-high heat.

3. Add chicken; cook for 3 minutes on each side or until lightly browned.

4. Remove chicken from pan; cover and keep warm. Add chouriço and cook until lightly browned.

Add onion and bell pepper; cook for 7 minutes, stirring constantly.

5. Add rice, tomato, paprika, saffron and garlic; cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Return chicken to pan. Add broth and 1/4 tsp of salt; bring to boil. Wrap handle of pan with foil, cover pan, bake at 400°F for 10 minutes.

6. Stir in shrimp, asparagus, and peas. Cover and bake an additional 5 minutes or until shrimp are no longer translucent.

Serves 6

Long-time friend Mary was born in Portugal, lives in Toronto, and for years has administered the marketing for a very successful Canadian restaurant company. These days, she doesn’t cook a lot of home-country food, but says that cod dishes, green soup, corn bread, custards and coconut cake quickly come to mind. Her green soup recipe, she says, is “fairly standard.” The chouriço, or chorizo, in combination with the greens, makes it different and special.

Thank you Mary!

¼ cup olive oil 1 large Spanish onion, diced 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 10 oz chouriço, diced 6 medium potatoes, peeled and diced 8 cups cold water 1 lb collard greens or kale, cut very fine julienne style Salt and pepper, to taste 1. In a large pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until translucent.

2. Add the garlic and half the chouriço, and cook for 2 minutes.

3. Add the potatoes, cover everything with the water, bring to a boil and lower the heat, simmering until the potatoes are almost done, about 15 minutes.

4. When the soup is cool enough to handle — and if you like it a little chunky — gently mash the potatoes. If you prefer no lumps, purée it in a food processor and return to the pot.

5. Add the collard greens, bring everything back to a boil and simmer for 2 minutes.

6. Season with salt and pepper, ladle into bowls, and garnish with the remaining cubes of chouriço. Serve with slices of corn bread.

•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

chouriço kale soup

portuguese custard tarts No matter where you go in Portugal, you’ll find these delectable little darlings. Rich? Any recipe that includes six egg yolks is rich. But you’ll only be eating one or two at a time of the dozen that you bake. One of the Marias at the allotment garden used to bring her custard tarts to the garden. We’d have them with tea from a thermos.

1 1 3 1

½ 6

package frozen puff pastry, thawed cup milk tbsp cornstarch cup white sugar vanilla bean egg yolks

1. Preheat oven to 375˚F. 2. Lightly grease 12 muffin cups and line bottom and sides with puff pastry.

3. In a saucepan, combine milk, cornstarch, sugar and

vanilla bean. Cook, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens. Place egg yolks in a medium bowl.

4. Slowly whisk 1/2 cup of hot milk mixture into egg yolks. Gradually add egg yolk mixture back to remaining milk mixture, whisking constantly.

5. Cook, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes, or until thickened. Remove vanilla bean.

6. Fill pastry-lined muffin cups with mixture and bake in preheated oven for 20 minutes, or until crust is golden brown and filling is lightly browned on top.

7. It may not be totally Portuguese, but on occasion, I have sprinkled brown sugar onto the tarts when they have cooled, then melted it under the broiler. …… Fortify your tart experience with a sip or two of Port! •

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by Robert Hausner

46 // April 2012

illustrations: FRancesco GallĂŠ, www.francescogalle.com

Home cooks are always seeking the exciting. But complicating the cooking process in search of a flavour boost appears formidable to most. The truth is that we’re intimidated by lengthy or complex recipes, and even those whiz-bang television personalities who promise it’s simple. The result of our efforts never quite turn out as we hope.

Yes, the conventional term is “kitchen secrets,” and too often they turn out to be difficult to master. But there are a few key techniques that are absolutely ingenuous and can be used in most of what you prepare, with the result that brings a smile to your face, satisfaction in what you’ve accomplished, consistently flavourful and aromatic dishes.

friend or foe?

Almost everyone is sensitive to too much salt. But why and how does salt enhance flavour? Should it be used at all? You cannot taste the salt itself. Salt actually changes the chemistry of food, and its effect on the food’s molecules increases aroma and enhances flavour so that we can perceive it better. In fact, in recent years, we have learned that salt also has an effect on brain function and tells us there is a more pronounced taste. That is why it is important not to add salt too early in the cooking process, because the amplified aroma will be released into the kitchen, and not into the mouth. It certainly makes the kitchen smell nice, but the objective is maximum flavour on the palate.

a pasta secret shared When serving pasta, drizzle a few drops of truffle-infused olive oil. You can buy 1 or 2 oz bottles and they’ll last quite awhile. This, in turn, adds a new taste element to the dish. A wondrous result from one small, affordable, extra ingredient.

Restaurant Kitchens; Lots of special equipment produce tastier food This is a common misconception.

Besides a professional stove that produces more heat to sear food, Scott Geiring from La Carambola, the outstanding fusion restaurant in Hudson’s foodie haven, says there are very few exceptions.

Tastier food can be duplicated in the home kitchen by following a few simple guidelines.

Freshness matters! The home cook too often grabs what’s available, especially at the “fresh” vegetable counter.

“Freshness is A1,” says Scott.

Buy first-quality ingredients.

Mediocre dishes come from mediocre ingredients.

(Sounds like the wine world!)

Some of us are confused by how to use baking powder and baking soda. Are they interchangeable? The simple answer is no, and the reason is clear.

Baking soda is sodium bicarbonate, a chemical that reacts with acids to produce CO2, carbon dioxide gas. It is a single material.

Baking powder, on the other hand, is a mixture of baking soda and cornstarch, which gives a result that has more volume, and is therefore easier to measure and control. So, baking powder is a complete raising agent where baking soda is a half leavener. If you use melted butter in a mixture and add baking soda, it reacts and makes bubbles. The result is light and airy.

Whereas, when making traditional pancakes where you add milk, the recipe would call for baking powder.

The result is a flatter pancake, but it’s no less enticing.

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the greatest kitchen trick

the microwave oven, a controversial appliance And what about the microwave oven? Does it have value for the professional chef (or your kitchen) for anything other than heating plates? The answer is a resounding yes. It is a useful, if limited, appliance.

It is not a surprise that some people perceive taste less intensely than others, especially when cooking fresh vegetables. We can all sense the delightful slightly crunchy texture on the palate. How can this be enhanced using a microwave? The logic is simple: when vegetables are boiled or steamed, it is not only hard to stop the process while the vegetables are still crunchy and brightly-coloured, but also, much of the flavour and certainly most of the vitamins leach into the boiling water or through the steam. Careful use of the microwave, checking the process a few times, gives a great result. Placed in a ceramic dish with just a tablespoon of water, vegetables not only keep their colour, they give optimum taste and texture – and importantly, retain their vitamin content. And by the way, it’s a great trick for thin fish fillets, cooked for about a minute as well. It is also wonderful and impressive to guests when an Italian theme is the order of the meal. Polenta is one of those traditional recipes that require standing seemingly forever at the stove and very slowly drizzling grains into the water until they reach the optimum texture. To the rescue comes the microwave, where you add both the polenta grains and the appropriate volume of water to a dish, turn the cook level up to high, and watch the polenta grains swell until they’re perfect. Quick, easy and effective. And for the health conscious cook, it’s useful to know that microwaves kill the enzymes that degrade the nutritional value of vegetables.

And looking at the flavour of food from a scientific viewpoint just for a moment, many wonder why the flavour of food changes so much when it is cooked. It is because heat is a form of energy, and the aroma compounds are very sensitive to heat and air.

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It is to understand the simple idea of how heat affects the flavour and texture of what we eat. The basic principle is that most meat and fish have an optimum interior temperature for doneness, flavour and safety. This is usually around 150˚F. So, many professionals start by using very high heat to brown the food and give a pleasing texture and taste to its exterior, and then instead of reducing the oven temperture – not to 350°F, which would complete the cooking cycle as quickly as possible, but would be difficult to control – but to around 200°F, which slow cooks food so that it is easier to regulate the optimum final interior temperature. It is just a practical and logical approach; slow cooking gives much greater control.

MAY 11th to 19th, 2012 or MAY 18th to 26th, 2012

Our Tour starts in ISTANBUL – we visit Turkey’s capital city of Ankara and enjoy the scenic 13th century Cappadocia – continue to Pamukkale and visit the famous ruins of Ephesus.

Tour ends in Kusadasi.

Enquire about additional cruise of Greek Islands.

Price: $1,295.00 per person not including airfare.

FOR ITINERARY PLEASE CALL DAPHNE AT 514.369.3300 • 1.800.361.9421 OR EMAIL daphchin@yahoo.com Wh_Henry AD_Turkey.indd 1

48 // April 2012

9/12/11 10:29:31 PM

seasoning food

There is nothing cloak-and-dagger about the best time to season food. Without doubt, it is shortly before serving, and indeed best at serving temperature. Yes, there is a contrary argument that adding spices, seasonings and salt during the cooking process infuses them into the food. This is true, but the herbs and spices added during the process are modified by the heat and lose their freshness. Ask any of your favourite chefs or outstanding home cooks, and they will confirm it makes sense, always, to taste at the end of the cooking cycle. That is the time to decide how much to adjust your seasonings: don’t salt too early in the cooking process. Do it when the aroma is complete if you want to bring out the optimum flavour. In particular, the flavour balance of fruit changes with temperature, especially with seasoning. And it’s logical that foods taste different if served very hot, warm, or at room temperature. For extra finesse, check your supermarket or look online for a range of finishing salts.

Celery salt, Himalayan, Hawaiian, black lava, or red sea salt, sold in tiny (affordable) racks from various online suppliers. Each imparts a different mouth pleasing finish to any dish. The most popular and readily available is Fleur de Sel, which has a wonderfully crystalline texture. Since salt is not a spice (it’s a mineral), it doesn’t lose its flavour over time, so controlled use at the moment of serving is by far the most effective way to incorporate this ubiquitous kitchen friend into your dishes.

adding small steps for wonderful salads When mixing first press olive oil and balsamic vinegar for salad dressing, take less than one minute to reduce the balsamic on the stove, and then mix. The effect is to intensify the balsamic, thus the dressing, and give it a brighter, mouthwatering taste.

Small steps, satisfying results.

an underrated quality Another simple kitchen aid used by virtually all chefs is lemon juice or vinegar. The effect is to make flavours brighter. Acidity is underrated, and for appropriate foods, at the end of the cooking cycle when you always taste to see what may be added to enhance the flavour, adding some lemon juice or a bit of vinegar often makes the food more mouth-watering. Frankly, it increases the saliva flow, and does more so than extra sugar. Acid effects both the taste and smell of food, and the combined effect makes food more vivid.

cutting boards and kitchen hygiene Some people prefer wooden cutting boards, which certainly degrades the sharp edge of your favourite knives more slowly than the plastic variety. But there is the distinctive disadvantage that liquids absorb into the cutting board itself. However, many of today’s boards contain an antibacterial compound, and thus repel pesky bacteria. At first glance plastic cutting boards may appear better because they are easy to clean, and can go into the dishwasher. But with time, they develop scars from cutting, and these scarred slots become increasingly unhygienic. Hence, boards should be replaced periodically.

Every chef has his own secrets. Use the freshest ingredients, and taste and adjust the food’s seasoning just before it is served.

Very simple, incredibly effective. •

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must try

lollipops\\

by Jagjit Bhatia

This long time Bhatia family tradition can be served with naan as an entrée, or make smaller versions and serve with mint chutney as an hors d’oeuvre.

lamb kebabs Makes 6 large or 12 small kebabs

1 yellow onion Peeled ginger root (size of your thumb) 1 green serrano chili pepper (can vary amount depending on how spicy hot you want it) Cilantro (1/2 bunch, heavy stems removed) 1 red onion 1 lemon 360 g fresh lean ground lamb 1 tsp salt 1 tsp paprika 1/2 tsp garam masala Chat masala (sprinkle)

1. Coarsely chop yellow onion, ginger root, serrano chili pepper, and 2/3 of the cilantro into food processor. Blend until chopped into small pieces, but not puréed.

2. Chop the red onion into long pieces and marinate in juice of half a lemon. Set aside.

3. Put mixture from food processor into a bowl with the ground lamb. Add salt, paprika, and garam masala. Now it is time to get dirty. Put a little vegetable oil on your hand and mix away.

4. Take a skewer and form some of the lamb mixture around it to make a long kebab shape.

5. Place the skewers on some oiled aluminum foil on a cookie sheet. Roll the kebab so that it is even width throughout.

6. Place under a broiler (high or 500˚F) for 10 minutes or until top is browned; then turn over for another approximately 10 minutes, until cooked through.

7. Put on a platter and sprinkle with chat masala.

8. Chop up remaining cilantro and sprinkle on top.

Do the same with the marinated red onion.

9. Squeeze the rest of the lemon juice over kebabs and serve with mint chutney. You can also mix some yoghurt with the mint chutney to add some texture. …… Find a bottle of Sula Shiraz from India and get ready to be surprised. •

50 // April 2012

the mav notes\\ 89 Rodney Strong Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Alexander Valley, United States ($22.95)

A classy Sonoma Cab that’s not over-extracted. Dense purple-ruby colour with a nose of cedar, blackcurrant, vanilla oak and a floral top note; medium-bodied, sweet, juicy blackcurrant and mulberry flavours with soft tannins. (TA)

89 Marchesi Antinori Montenisa Dizero Brut, Franciacorta, Lombardia, Italy ($45.75) Nice fruity nose, inviting, even charming with complexity.

Great acidity, lots of freshness and fruity presence; overall very nice. Finish is clean and fresh. Made using the same method as Champagne, it is as good as any. (GBQc)

88 Sledgehammer Zinfandel 2009, North Coast, United States ($17.95)

The name is very apropos as the wine just hits the senses with 15.1% alcohol, a mélange of dark and red fruits and gobs of new oak. Jammy, a touch of sweetness and very good length make for a hedonistic bottle of juice. (ES)

90 Château des Charmes Old Vines Riesling 2008, St David’s Bench, Niagara ($16.95) The “White Wine of the Year” at the 2011 Ontario Wine Awards. Straw-coloured, with a hint of lime; on the nose, minerally, petrol and apricot aromas; off-dry and elegant with flavours of grapefruit, honey and green apple. A testament to Ontario Riesling. (TA)

92 Janoueix Cuvée du Fondateur 2004, Bordeaux Superior, France ($19)

She’s so French, wearing her flirty medium-garnet dress and perfume of sweet berries and rich leather. On the palate, she is a classic claret, beautifully balanced with crushed berries and a touch of smoke from her Gauloises. Like the best French women, sophisticated and will plateau beautifully for a number of years. (RL)*

91 Bellingham Bernard Series Old Vines Chenin Blanc 2009, Coastal Region, South Africa ($24.99)

90 Farina Gran Colegiata Campus 2004, Toro, Spain ($26) From old vines, this is deep plum red with fine particles. The bouquet is of raspberries with a hint of barnyard, spice and cedar. In the mouth the red berries continue, including lively cranberry-like acidity. Mediumbodied with some soft tannins still contributing structure. Will peak in a couple of years. (RL)*

Sourced from unirrigated, low-yielding 40-year-old bush vines, it unleashes astonishing complexity. Floral, spicy, honeyed aromas lead to rich flavours of baked apple, ripe pear and vanilla. Partial new French oak aging confers structure, a buttery texture and long finish. Serve with Asian-spiced seafood. (HH)

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home cooking redux\\

I love good food. Italian, Malaysian, Vietnamese, Peruvian, Mexican, North African, Spanish, Californian, the list goes on and on. The one commonality is flavour. I need flavour, a depth of flavours and a seamless balance of flavours, in order to elicit the emotional response I crave when exploring culinary offerings around the world.

But the cuisine I crave the most is Indian food. Yes, I grew up with it, and I always liked it, but I probably took it for granted when I was younger because my mom is such a great cook.

As I got older, I appreciated the flavours and techniques more, but it wasn’t until I moved away for university that I realized how much I love the cuisine.

Of course, there is no substitute for experiencing a country’s cuisine than while you are there. I’ve travelled to India many times, but my last visits were before I was in the food and wine industry. I still like to go to the same types of restaurants, street vendors and hole-in-the-wall joints, but on a recent trip, I was interested to see how the food, wine and restaurant culture has evolved over the past seventeen years in light of India’s booming economy, enormous wealth, huge middle class, and strong ties to the western world.

Finding your way in a country of 1.2 billion people and in cities (Mumbai, Kolkata and Delhi), each of whose populations is half that of Canada’s, can be overwhelming. Fortunately I still have numerous cousins, uncles, aunts and extended family members who were more than willing to lead the way. A trip to India should be on everyone’s bucket list. Here are some of the not-tomiss food experiences in three of the country’s largest cities. (I’ll explore India’s emerging wine culture in a future column.)

52 // April 2012

davine

by gurvinder Bhatia

mumbai (bombay)

Mumbai is the financial and entertainment centre of India. I was a little disappointed with how the city looked (dirty and unfinished), particularly in light of the apparent development since my last visit and the enormous amount of wealth in the city. Fortunately, the food did not disappoint.

Trishna (Sai Baba Marg, in the Kala Ghoda neighbourhood) is an amazing seafood restaurant. Tandoori pomfret, butterpepper-garlic crab, and masala prawns were all finger-licking delicious as the seafood was prepared perfectly with layers of tantalizing flavours.

Down the street from Trishna is the funky café-styled Paratha Mantra, which serves a variety of stuffed parathas (panfried whole-wheat flatbread). The traditional aloo (potato), gobi (cauliflower), and mooli (daikon) shared the menu with more trendy fillings such as mozzarella-olive-jalapeno, kidney beans and serano pepper, mushroom-cheese and many others. There is a wide selection of other vegetarian dishes and the place was packed with a younger crowd.

Chinese food is very popular in India. Vong Wong (Express Towers, Nariman Point) is an upscale Chinese restaurant with a selection of Thai, dim sum, Chinese and continental items.

The food was very good, but it took some time to navigate the multiple menus left at the table. Be sure to dress warmly as the restaurant is kept at a temperature fit for a meat locker.

Located near the Gateway of India and the luxurious Taj Mahal Palace Hotel is the elegant Indigo Restaurant (4 Mandlik Road, Colaba). Described as “modern European,” the restaurant would easily fit in any metropolitan city in the world.

The menu is filled with creative dishes such as chilled leek and green apple soup, roasted beet carpaccio with caramelized pears and feta, fresh oysters on the half shell with cucumber and lime granita, cornmeal fettuccine with straw mushrooms and bok choy, Buffalo tenderloin with braised oxtail and tandoor-roasted pumpkin, and on and on. Everything sounded so delicious I had a hard time deciding, but my lamb shank was one of the best I’ve ever had.

new delhi

Delhi is the diplomatic centre of India. The airport is ultramodern and the streets are wide, although traffic is a complete nightmare (as it was in Mumbai and everywhere else in India, but Delhi seemed to take the chaos to another level).

The first stop in Delhi has to be Haldiram (many locations, but go to the Connaught Place location). Haldiram is a snackfood-and-sweets haven serving everything from papri chaat (fried disks of whole wheat dough topped with diced potatoes, chickpeas, yogurt, spices and tamarind and mint chutneys) to dosa (crepe-like, plain or stuffed with potato, onion or paneer and served with lentil soup-like sambar and coconut chutney).

The pani puri (fried whole wheat disks that puff up and become hollow; fill them with potato, chickpeas, yogurt, chutney and dip in jeera [cumin] water) are a must, as are the numerous Indian sweets. You could spend days exploring Indian cuisine without leaving Haldiram.

Delhi has many great restaurants, but two really stood out.

Drums of Heaven (Nilgiri Shopping Complex) may be the best Chinese food in the country with dishes such as prawn satay with peanut sauce and kaffir lime leaves and crisp lamb topped with sesame. And Bukhara (in the ITC Maurya Hotel), whose chefs have perfected the art of marinating and cooking in a tandoor, kill it with their succulent kebabs, leg of lamb and black lentils.

Going to Nizam’s is the ultimate hole-in-the-wall street eating experience. Standing outside the takeout window in the littered side street, with the stray dogs hoping for any scraps that may hit the ground (because there are no garbage cans in sight), and with the fan venting grease on to the waiting customers is not for the precious. But these pan-fried flatbreads rolled with a variety of fillings are so good, they will make the surroundings more than worth it (the surroundings actually add to the experience). Egg and double chicken roll ... amazing; potato and egg roll ... amazing; paneer and potato with extra serano chilli ... amazing. They are all amazing, and the place is timeless. The best food you will have for less than $2.

Kolkata (Calcutta)

If Mumbai is the financial and entertainment centre and Delhi is the diplomatic centre, then Kolkata is the heart of India.

The city seems to have changed little since I last visited it in 1976, but I mean that in the best possible way. Yes, the city is run down (landing at the airport brought to mind the Seinfeld episode with George’s reluctance to use the loo), it is dirty and smelly with an abundance of stray dogs, homelessness is all too evident, and it is representative of almost every stereotype used to describe the issues facing the country. But the people of Kolkata are the warmest, most hospitable and sincere people you could meet and the food is heart-warming.

The Astor Hotel is great for kebabs and late-night dancing at its Plush nightclub. Flavours of China Bar-B-Q Restaurant (Park Street) serves delicious Chinese food and Kewpie’s (Elgin Lane) serves incredible Bengali dishes such as shrimp in coconut, fish in mustard sauce cooked in banana leaf, stewed mutton, eggplant in yellow curry, and lentils. But a visit to “Cal” is not complete without going for Nizam rolls and dinner at Sanjha Chulha Dhaba (Bypass).

my lovely wife Aimee enjoying a double-chicken, no egg Nizam roll

The only place that comes close to Nizam’s is Sanjha Chulha Dhaba. A dhaba is a casual roadside eatery, but Sanjha Chulha’s flavours take this food to another level. This is real food ... simple, delicious, and unpretentious. Fish and chicken kebabs are so tender they melt in your mouth, pudina paneer (homemade ricotta cheese with mint) is divine as are the yellow lentils, mutton biryani, and assortment of rotis, naans, and parathas. Dinner at Sanjha Chulha’s at a table with twenty of my relatives — young and old, everyone laughing, yelling across the room and raving about the food — will always rank as one of my best meals ever. •

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//the food notes 88 Hester Creek Pinot Blanc 2010, Okanagan ($15.99) Spicy scents of baked apple, ripe pear, clove, orange and honey lure the nose. Vibrant mouthfeel unveils juicy acidity and tangy peach and melon flavours, followed by a soft, round finish flecked by herbal notes. Refreshing with oysters on the half shell. (HH)

87 Mud House Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Marlborough, New Zealand ($15.95)

An attractively priced Sauvignon from Kiwi land. Pale straw in colour with a nose of grass, passion fruit and green apples. These flavours, replicated on the palate, make for a crisply dry, medium-bodied, fresh and lively wine. Great with goat’s cheese. (TA)

86 Graffigna Centenario Malbec Reserve 2009, San Juan, Argentina ($13)

A subtle nose of soft berries, pepper, plums and light oak. It picks up on the palate with cherry, blackberry and spice in a balanced approach. Serve with roast beef, BBQ ribs, and roasted vegetables. (RV)

92 Stoney Ridge Estate Winery Excellence Barrel Fermented Gewürztraminer Icewine 2009, Niagara ($100/375 ml)

What a wowser of an Icewine! The bright yellow/golden colour heralds the huge nose of guava, peach compote, buckwheat honey, dried apricots, dried roses, applesauce and spice.

Full-bodied with considerable richness, this wine is ready to drink now, preferably with blue cheeses or foie gras. (ES)

88 Angels Gate V, Niagara ($50)

90 Emiliana Gê 2007, Colchagua Valley, Chile ($75)

90 Aliança Quinta da Garrida 2007, Dão, Portugal ($16)

Elegant and rich with bold, ripe and focused aromas and flavours of plum, black cherry, raspberry, and currants; hints of cedar and spice, velvety tannins; a bright minerality and long, fresh finish. Great with grilled lamb. Syrah, Carmenère and Cabernet Sauvignon. (GB)

This singular wine is a blend of 5 different wines from 5 different vintages: 2002 to 2006. The colour is still youthful, but the nose is starting to show some mature cedar qualities, which melds with the plums, dried cherries, earth, dark cocoa and spice. The tannins have melted and the acid is fresh, making for a wine that is ready to drink with braised lamb shanks in a rosemary/red-wine jus. (ES)

This is a gorgeous wine made from a blend of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz in the Dão region. The nose shows spicy cinnamon, oak and vanilla notes with prunes, currants, raisins and flowery accents. It’s quite funky and rustic but enthralling in its unique profile. In the mouth look for sweet, rounded fruit with liquorice, cherry, dark chocolate and gritty tannins followed by espresso notes on the finish. Very nice. Try with mushroom risotto. (RV)

54 // April 2012

bouquet garni

matchy, matchy\\

I’ve been a dedicated fashionista since my early teens, but lately the fashion industry has left me behind in its multicoloured dust. I’m talking about the annoying trend to mismatch colours, patterns and fabrics. After years of coordinating my handbag with my shoes, I suddenly find myself frumpy and outdated. It seems “matchy-matchy” is a fashion no-no.

Fashion editors are dressing models in layers of wild colour and pattern. Sparkly striped tee with plaid leggings and forestranger boots? Check. Green tweed jacket with blue flowered blouse over red jeans and bright orange sandals? All right!

Heavy woollen Grandpa sweater with sequined skirt and fuchsia tights? Bring it on! Honestly, the magazine models look like clueless three-year-olds who have dressed themselves for the very first time. I am this close to calling the fashion police.

But then, I spy a photo of those same fashion editors sitting in the front row at a show during Fashion Week. They are tastefully decked out in basic black, with matchy-matchy sunglasses and handbags. True, they’ve donned red stilettos to kick things up a notch, but let’s face it, they are not following their own nouveau fashion rules. I feel safe again, and très chic to boot.

In the culinary world, there are some matchy-matchy foods that should never be tampered with, although some have tried. Beef tenderloin with cabbage? Never! Black pepper on my frosting? Big no! Taco pizza? I’ll pass! Call me oldfashioned, but I stick to tried-and-true combos. And believe me, when I cook up these delicious dishes, nobody cares if my shoes match my handbag.

by nancy Johnson

braised pork and sauerkraut serves 6

This is sauerkraut’s big year, having become the darling of the health industry. And why not? It’s high in fibre, calcium, potassium and iron, plus vitamins C and K. It’s also high in sodium, which is why some people rinse sauerkraut before adding it to the pot. I’ve tried rinsing it, but humbly put forward the thought that sauerkraut tastes better when added with its juices. The addition of nutrient-dense caraway seeds aids in the digestion of sauerkraut. If you like a sweet-and-sour note to your sauerkraut, add the brown sugar. I sometimes use brown sugar and sometimes don’t. It tastes great either way.

3–4 2 1 1 1/2 1 1 1 2 1

lb boneless pork loin tbsp olive oil large jar sauerkraut (about 2–3 cups) tsp caraway seeds tsp dried thyme tsp paprika cup chicken broth can beer bay leaves tbsp brown sugar (optional)

1. Preheat oven to 325˚F. 2. Season the pork with salt and pepper. In a large Dutch oven, in hot olive oil, brown the pork on all sides. Remove and set aside.

+ Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on tidingsmag.com

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3. Add the sauerkraut with its juices, caraway seeds, thyme,

ginger beef and bok choy Serves 6

I love Asian food because it often features the delicious combination of sweet, sour and spicy all in one dish, like this recipe. The fish sauce amps up the flavour; the lime and ginger impart tang and spiciness; the sugar lends sweetness. To make preparing the steak easier, partially freeze it before slicing. While this dish calls for bok choy, I have made it with zucchini, sugar snap peas or green beans, essentially whatever’s in the fridge or freezer.

1 3 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2

beef sirloin steak, about 1 pound, partially frozen small heads baby bok choy tbsp fish sauce tbsp water tsp lime zest tbsp lime juice tsp sugar tbsp canola oil cloves garlic, minced tsp grated fresh ginger

1. Chopped scallions, minced candied ginger and toasted sesame oil for garnish

2. Slice sirloin steak across the grain into strips.

3. Blanch the bok choy for one minute in boiling water. Drain

and pat dry. Slice lengthwise.

4. In a small bowl, mix fish sauce, water, lime zest, lime juice and sugar. Set aside.

5. Heat canola oil in wok or large skillet. Stir-fry bok choy for 1 to 2 minutes. Remove and set aside.

6. Add garlic and ginger to wok. Cook for 1 minute. Add meat.

Stir-fry about 3 minutes or until meat is just pink in centre.

Return bok choy to wok. Add sauce. Cook, stirring, about 2 minutes or until heated through. Garnish with chopped scallions, minced candied ginger and a drizzle of sesame oil.

Serve with jasmine rice. …… A dry Riesling from Germany or Alsace will complement this dish.

56 // April 2012

paprika, broth, beer, bay leaves and brown sugar if using.

Bring to a boil.

4. Return pork to the Dutch oven, nestling the roast into the sauerkraut mixture. Cover tightly and braise in the oven for 2 1/2 hours or until pork is fall-apart tender.

5. Remove bay leaves before serving. Serve with buttered noodles, baked apples and glazed carrots. …… The last time I made pork and sauerkraut, I served a chilled California Moscato — it was a delicious combination, although Riesling works well too.

greek shrimp with tomatoes, ouzo and feta cheese serves 4

The combination of fresh tomatoes, anisette-flavoured ouzo and tangy feta over briny-sweet shrimp is a marriage made on Mount Olympus, worthy of the gods. This dish requires what chefs call mise en place, or advance prep — before cooking, blanch and peel the tomatoes, peel, devein and rinse the shrimp, mince the onion and parsley and measure out the ouzo, hot red pepper flakes and oregano. After that, the dish comes together in less than 15 minutes.

2 1

1/8 1 2 1 1 1 2

tbsp olive oil small onion, minced tsp hot red pepper flakes (or to taste) tsp dried oregano lb Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped tbsp ouzo or Pernod lb shrimp, peeled, deveined and rinsed cup feta cheese, crumbled tbsp fresh parsley, minced

1. Preheat broiler.

2. In a broiler-proof skillet, heat olive oil and sauté onion, hot

red pepper flakes and oregano over medium heat until onion is softened, about 5 minutes.

3. Add tomatoes and cook over medium heat until tomatoes are softened, about 5 minutes. Remove skillet from heat. Stir in ouzo.

4. Arrange the uncooked shrimp on the tomato mixture.

Sprinkle feta over the shrimp. Broil until feta is bubbly and slightly browned and shrimp are pink and cooked through.

5. Watch closely, checking every 1 to 2 minutes. It should take less than 4 minutes to cook, depending on your broiler’s heat.

6. Garnish with parsley and serve immediately with a loaf of crusty bread to soak up the juices. Also delicious served over orzo. …… Herbaceous Oregon Pinot Gris is a good match for this dish.

chicken fingers with honey mustard dipping sauce serves 4

I am not a big fan of frozen chicken fingers, so I make my own, which isn’t as complicated as it sounds. Lately, I’ve found that combining panko (Japanese) bread crumbs with store-bought bread crumbs results in a crust that is crunchy but not too crunchy. This is a fast mid-week dish that is heavenly with the pairing of a honey and mustard dip.

2 large skinless, boneless chicken breast halves 1 cup flour 2 eggs, beaten with about 1 tsp of Dijon mustard 1 cup panko bread crumbs 1 cup dried bread crumbs 1 tsp dried parsley 1/2 tsp garlic powder 1/2 tsp sweet paprika Salt and pepper to taste Olive oil for drizzling

honey mustard dip

1

cup honey tbsp Dijon mustard

1/4

1. Coat a baking sheet with cooking spray. Preheat oven to 450˚F.

2. Cut chicken into strips. Place flour on a plate.

Place egg and mustard mixture in a bowl. In another shallow bowl, mix panko, bread crumbs, parsley, garlic powder, paprika, salt and pepper.

3. Dredge chicken in flour, then eggs, then bread crumb mixture.

4. Place chicken on baking sheet in a single layer.

Drizzle each piece lightly with olive oil. Bake uncovered in 450˚F oven 11 to 15 minutes or until chicken is cooked through.

5. Meanwhile, make honey mustard dip: in a bowl, whisk honey with mustard. Serve chicken strips with dip. …… This is a simple dish, so keep the wine to a simple white vin de pays or California Chardonnay.

phyllo-wrapped brie with blueberries Is there no combination more magical than warm blueberries with brie? I can’t think of a more delicious combo, unless you wrap it all up in phyllo dough. Amazing! As blueberries come to market, make this as often as possible. When blueberries reach their peak, freeze them and you’ll enjoy blueberry pancakes, muffins, pie and this yummy appetizer all year long.

2/3 1

1/2 2 10 1

cup fresh blueberries tbsp lemon juice tsp cinnamon tbsp sugar sheets phyllo dough small wheel of double-cream brie (about 8 oz)

1. Preheat oven to 375˚F. 2. In a small bowl, combine blueberries, lemon juice, cinnamon and sugar. Set aside.

3. Arrange phyllo sheets in a stack on a baking sheet. Place brie in centre.

Spoon blueberry mixture over brie.

4. Fold the edges of the top sheet of phyllo up and over cheese and blueberries. Spray with cooking spray, then repeat with remaining sheets.

5. Bake brie 25 minutes or until phyllo is golden brown. Serve immediately with a warm toasted baguette. …… When served as an appetizer, open a bottle of sparkling wine. When served as dessert, try a Vidal Icewine. •

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Tidings uses the 100-point scale 95-100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

90-94. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

85-89 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80-84. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

75-79. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70 & under. . . . . . . . . . .

exceptional excellent

very good good acceptable

below average

Our Scoring

System

* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . available through

wine clubs green. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . white & rosé wines red. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . red wines

the commentaries in order to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board, or its website, for availability.

Our tasters are Tony Aspler (ON), Sean Wood (NS, NB), Gilles Bois (QC), Evan Saviolidis (ON), Harry Hertscheg (BC), Gurvinder Bhatia (AB), Rick VanSickle (ON), Ron Liteplo (AB) and Jonathan Smithe (MB).

Argentina // p. 58; Australia // p. 58-59; Canada // p. 59-60; Chile // p. 60-61; France // p. 61-62; Georgia // p. 62; Hungary // p. 62; Italy // p. 62-63; New Zealand // p. 63;

Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category.

Readers should open their palates to compare the relationship between quality and price. We’d also ask you to carefully study

Luxembourg // p. 63; portugal // p. 63; South Africa // p. 63-64; Spain // p. 64-65; United States // p. 65;

the notes\\ /Argentina /

89 Zuccardi Series A Malbec 2009, Mendoza ($16.99)

Classic Argentinean Malbec nose with currant fruit and delicate spice. Harmoniously integrated red and dark fruit on the palate backed by supple tannins with notes of chocolate, spice and impeccably balanced finish. (SW)

88 Graffigna Centenario Malbec Reserve 2008, San Juan ($12.95)

San Juan is located to the north of Mendoza. Purple colour; sweet red and black fruits (blackcurrant, blackberry), spicy oak. The intense

58 // April 2012

Spirits // p. 65

fruity taste fills the mouth along with barely rough tannins. Tame acidity, nice round middle palate.

Generous and pleasant to drink now. (GBQc)

cherry and plum flavours, a touch of espresso and a rather short finish.

Neither offensive nor compelling. (GB)

88 Zuccardi Series A Syrah 2008, Mendoza ($15.99)

/Australia /

Offers surprisingly deep aromatic and flavour profile for the price. Refined fruit flavours suggest red cherry and plum with fine spice, good tannic grip, smooth velvet texture and flawless balance. (SW)

83 Santa Florentina Malbec/Syrah 2010, Famatina Valley ($12.99) Simple, with some light

88 Geoff Hardy Salmon Sparkling, South Australia ($22)

Lovely vermilion/tangerine hue with lots of fine bubbles.

Try this in a regular wine glass, the better to enjoy the floral and apple bouquet.

Luscious strawberry and papaya flavours are kept honest by zingy acidity. The surprisingly long finish hints of lemon zest. (RL)*

87 Yellow Tail Reserve Chardonnay 2010, New South Wales ($16)

The popular Yellow Tail brand has taken it up a notch with the reserve wines that offer up some pretty decent value. This Chard shows a peachy-vanilla nose with soft apple and spice notes. In the mouth it’s creamy with peaches, butterscotch, spice and a citrus note on the finish. Pair with poached salmon or lobster slathered in butter. (RV)

92 Wynns John Riddoch 2008, South Australia ($70)

Another sensational Aussie classic made from 100%

+ A searchable listing of our tasting notes is at tidingsmag.com/notes/

\

Cabernet fruit from Coonawarra. Cassis and crushed currants explode on the nose with toasted oak spice and minerals chiming in. The dark fruits are lush on the palate and joined by a range of spice and oak notes that come at you in layer after layer. A voluptuous and fleshy wine with gritty tannins that will age for a decade or more. (RV)

92 Wolf Blass Black Label 2007, South Australia ($100)

Back in the early 1970s, this was the wine that established Wolf Blass as a driving force in Australian winemaking. It’s a blend of 70% Cabernet, 22% Shiraz and just a touch of Malbec from a variety of regions in Australia. It is spectacular. The nose shows ripe plums, currants and mature blackberry fruits to go with layers of spice and meaty-earthy notes. It shows depth of flavour in the mouth with wonderful fruit, plush tannins, liquorice, oak and layers of spice. You can cellar for 10 or more years as it matures gracefully. Try with grilled lamb loin or a simple BBQ steak. (RV)

89 Stone Dwellers Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Strathbogie Ranges, Victoria ($19.95) Dense purple-ruby in colour; a lifted nose of blackberries and blackcurrants with a cedary, peppery note. Wellextracted fruit backed by evident oak and texture-giving tannins. Drinking nicely now but will repay a year or two’s cellaring. (TA)

87 Yellow Tail Reserve Shiraz 2010, New South Wales ($16)

The Shiraz version of the reserve tier shows a nose of cassis, black cherry, black pepper, kirsch, currants and toasted vanilla. It’s rich and layered on the palate with dusty tannins, pepper and cherry-currantblackberry fruits. (RV)

87 d’Arenberg ‘The Peppermint Paddock’ Sparkling Chambourcin, McLaren Vale, South Australia ($34)

A fun, festive red sparkler that’s crimson-purple in colour with aromas of plum, raspberry and spice; refreshing, rich flavours of cherry and plum with a touch of fresh herbs, minerality, firm tannins and an uplifted acidity on the finish. Chambourcin is the grape varietal, but a small amount of fortified Shiraz was added, which contributes to the funky uniqueness of the wine. (GB)

/Canada / 94 Benjamin Bridge Brut Reserve LD (Late Disgorged) 2004, Nova Scotia ($89.79)

Discernibly similar to the previous release but shows richer and softer notes of creamy spicy brioche together with delicate floral and honeyed overtones.

Enhanced richness carries through on the palate with citrus, green apple and a subtle hint of red berry fruit.

Signature Nova Scotia acidity and mineral grip provide

dynamic contrast with creamy richness. A stellar achievement. Only 900 bottles made. (SW)

92 Stoney Ridge Estate Winery Excellence Pinot Gris 2010, Niagara ($25)

Winemaker Gord Robert has stepped out of the shadow of his predecessor, the famed Jim Warren, and is producing compelling wines at Stoney Ridge. This Pinot Gris is a dead ringer for a top Alsatian version. Full-bodied and dry, there are mega amounts of peach, flower, smoke, vanilla, cream, spice and honey. Rounding out the experience is a creamy texture and superb aftertaste. (ES)

91 Château des Charmes Old Vines Riesling 2008, St David’s Bench, Niagara ($16.95)

I have tasted all of CDC’s Rieslings since 1992, and I can say, unequivocally, this edition is their finest of this varietal to date. Medium-bodied, the explosive nose is starting to show some age in the form of petrol, which couples with the white peach, apricot, mineral, honey, lime cordial and white flowers. Lightly off-dry; crisp acidity and a medium finish round out the picture. It should age well for another 4 or 5 years. (ES)

91 Stoney Ridge Estate Winery Excellence Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Niagara ($30)

A quarter of this wine was barrel-fermented and barrel-aged, giving a vanilla and spice slant to the floral,

honey, lime, mint, gooseberry and fruit-salad qualities of the grape. Full-bodied, the great depth and long finish are supported by crisp acidity. It is a worthy successor to the great 2009 rendering. Ideal with a lightly breaded veal cutlet. (ES)

90 Inniskillin Legacy Riesling 2010, Niagara ($30)

This is the second Legacy Riesling to have been produced. The previous one was in 2008. Like its predecessor, it is a full-bodied white with loads of peach, honey, lime and minerals, but the acid is softer due to the heat of 2010. The finale is long and fruit-driven.

Beautiful stuff indeed! (ES)

89 McWatters Collection Chardonnay 2010, Sundial Vineyard, Okanagan ($25) Generous aromas of caramel, coconut and lemon meringue.

An elegant palate showcases sleek citrus and sweet pineapple flavours, followed by notes of lemon zest, hazelnut and buttered toast on the finish. Pair with Dungeness crab cakes. (HH)

88 Stoney Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Niagara ($17)

Strong aromas of passion fruit, grapefruit, gooseberries, grass, minerals and honey just keep on coming.

In the mouth, minerals, citrus and grapefruit dance with the medium body and sound acid. There is very good length and it is ready to drink. (ES)

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//the notes 88 Hester Creek The Judge 2008, Okanagan ($45)

This estate-grown Cab Franc/ Cab Sauv/Merlot blend offers rich fruit, velvety tannins and a well-structured palate.

Features fragrant plum, blackcurrant and hickory smoke aromas and concentrated cassis, caramel and black cherry flavours. Savoury herb notes linger. Pair with roast leg of lamb. (HH)

87 Reif Estate Winery Gewürztraminer/ Riesling 2010, Niagara ($14.95)

The medium yellow colour leads into a nose of peach, lychee, cold cream, roses, honey and cardamom. In the mouth, it is dry, with the acidity of the Riesling acting as a backstop to the candied pineapple and ginger flavours. Serve it with prawns in a coconut curry sauce or pad Thai. (ES)

87 Kacaba Vineyards Unoaked Chardonnay 2009, Niagara ($14.95)

This is a pure expression of Chardonnay: green apple, pear, peach, gooseberries and anise. Light to medium body; there is fresh acid and a green apple finale. (ES)

92 Mission Hill Family Estate Oculus 2007, Okanagan ($70)

A St Émilion-style blend of Merlot, Cab Sauv, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. Dense purple-black in colour with a richly expressive nose of cedar and vanilla oak; dry and savoury on the palate with blackcurrant and dark chocolate flavours.

Will cellar well. (TA)

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90 Stoney Ridge Estate Winery Excellence Cabernet Franc 2009, Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara ($39)

The grapes for the wine were sourced from the Fox Croft Vineyard, one of the top 3 for Cabernet Franc in the Niagara Peninsula. The dark cherry colour heralds a bouquet of cassis, smoke, violets, graphite, herbs and vanilla. Medium- to fullbody, there is pronounced acidity and tannins, ensuring a long life ahead. Hold it until 2013 and then enjoy it until 2020. (ES)

88 Reif Estate Winery Cabernet Franc 2010, Niagara ($19.95)

From the fabulous 2010 vintage comes this Franc, which possesses a deep cherry colour. Plums, cassis, dark cherries, tobacco, smoke and black pepper are layered on a medium body. Elegantly styled, the flavours carry long on the finish, while the tannins ensure at least 4 years of longevity. Pair it with herb and olive oil–marinated grilled pork chops and sautéed Swiss chard or vegetarian lasagna. (ES)

87 Stoney Ridge Estate Winery Simply Red Cabernet/Merlot 2009, Niagara ($13.95)

Stoney Ridge’s lifestyle red is a blend of 50% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot. The medium cherry colour leads into a nose of spice, herbs, cassis, raspberries and flowers. Soft, smooth and easy drinking is its mantra. (ES)

87 Kacaba Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Niagara ($18.95)

93 Montes Alpha “M” 2007, Apalta Vineyard, Santa Cruz ($95)

/Chile /

93 Viña Seña 2007, Aconcagua Valley ($99.99)

This Cab is still tight and requires another year in bottle before showing its full potential. That being said, mocha, spice, cassis, coffee, plum and herbs are all in the mix. Very good length and firm tannins round everything out. Serve it with grilled rosemary-scented lamb chops. (ES)

90 Santa Carolina Oceanside Sauvignon Blanc 2011, San Antonio Valley ($19.99)

Ocean breezes cool off afternoon-warmed grapes, ensuring pungent aromas and crisp acidity, while rocky soils confer lingering minerality. Look for fresh grassy scents, setting up spicy honeysuckle and passion fruit flavours, spiked with citrus from start to finish.

Bring on oysters, ceviche, sashimi, etc. (HH)

94 Casa Silva Microterroir de los Lingues Carmenère 2006, Colchagua Valley ($50)

Sourced from 11 specific vineyard sections. Be seduced by expressive aromas and rich flavours of boldo tea, coffee bean, chocolate and fragrant spice. The profound complexity and well-balanced palate are swaddled by soft tannins. A very satisfying savoury and spice-laden finish. Enjoy with merquén spice–rubbed pork or simply on its own. (HH)

This Cab Sauv (80%) dominant blend captivates the nose with floral, blackcurrant and minty aromas. Rich cocoa and red cherry flavours ride atop velvety tannins. Finishes warm, dry and with a lingering spicy perfume. Supported by 10% Merlot with 5% each of Petit Verdot and Cab Franc.

Partner with steak. (HH)

The complex nose features floral, mint, cassis and vanilla aromas. The full-bodied palate exhibits exceptional finesse, with ripe fruit, supple textures and sweet tannins. Layers upon layers are revealed by each subsequent sip. Mineral notes linger. Drink by 2016 to still taste that bright fruit character. (HH)

92 Luis Felipe Edwards Doña Bernarda 2007, Colchagua Valley ($35.99)

This Cab Sauv–dominant blend gets care from handpicked, hilltop fruit and attention from 18 months in new French oak. The result is fragrant aromas of red berries, blackcurrant and chocolate, accompanied by a creamy mocha texture, supple tannins and a polished, earth-toned finish. Pair with lamb stew. (HH)

89 De Martino Legado Reserva Carmenère 2008, Maipo Valley ($15.95) One of the best unblended

Chilean Carmenère I’ve tasted — and a super price. Dense purple-black in colour with a spicy blackcurrant nose and note of leather. Fruity but dry and medium-bodied with fresh acidity, it lingers long on the palate. (TA)

88 Cousiño-Macul Antiguas Reservas Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Maipo Valley ($15) A perennial favourite of mine — vintage after vintage — a New World 100% Cabernet Sauvignon made in Old World style. Dense purple colour with a nose of blackcurrant and plum; mediumbodied with a rich fruitcake flavour, a fine mouthfeel and a sweet core. (TA)

88 Quintay Clava Pinot Noir 2010, Casablanca Valley ($17.99)

A seductively perfumed New World Pinot loaded with ripe strawberry, cinnamon, vanilla and milk chocolate smoothness on the palate. Finishes with well-integrated fruit, spice, chocolate and a deft touch of oak. (SW)

/France / 93 La Fleur d’Or Sauternes 2005, Bordeaux ($32)

Medium amber colour, with a rich nose of apple cider, crème brûlée and pineapple. Very full-bodied, unctuous, with flavours of honey, toffee, and ripe pears. Outstanding value, with at least a decade ahead of it. Remember to choose a dessert that has slightly less sugar content. (RL)*

92 Château HautBergeron Sauternes 2005, Bordeaux ($24/375 ml)

Rich bronze with polished clarity. Lots of noble rot aroma covering ripe apples and tropical fruits poached in honey and drizzled with caramel. Very full-bodied, viscous satiny mouthfeel.

Flavours of peaches, pears, and a hint of orange marmalade on the finish. A long way from maturity. (RL)*

92 Bruno Paillard Premiere Cuvée Brut Champagne, Reims ($78) Pure, clean and elegant with a refined texture and beautiful, delicate flavours of citrus, apple and almond; bright minerality and excellent length. Not just for toasting, this beautiful Champagne would be perfect with everything from oysters to foie gras to french fries. (GB)

90 Château Montus 2008, Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec, Southwest ($23.55)

Straw yellow. Intense and fresh nose with obvious oak along with citrus notes.

Penetrating flavour, sharp acidity and silky texture. Not very complex at this stage, but it holds the promise of a fine evolution; you can keep it 4 to 5 years. (GBQc)

90 Veuve A. Devaux Blanc de Noirs Brut, Champagne ($49.75)

Enticing nose, complex with nice white fruits. Balanced and intense on the palate, it drinks easily thanks to a great ripeness in the fruity flavour.

The nice, long finish has great balance. A beautiful wine, hard to put in words. (GBQc)

light style. Crisply fresh citrus notes give an appetizing lift on the finish. (SW)

90 Agrapart & Fils Minéral Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs 2003, Champagne ($83.50)

87 Domaine J. Laurens Le Moulin Brut Blanquette de Limoux, Languedoc ($18)

89 A. & P. de Villaine Bourgogne Les Clous 2009, Côte Chalonnaise ($26.40)

85 Domaine Villabea Condrieu 2007, Rhône Valley ($40)

Complex nose, minerally with notes of yeast and apricot. Biting acidity, very dry, a bit of rancio and bitterness in the finish. A serious bubbly for amateurs who like their champagne very, very dry. (GBQc)

Straw yellow. Aromatic and perfumed nose with pleasant, ripe quince, peach and gunpowder minerality. Lively attack, minerally with an insisting taste of dried herbs surrounding a fruity core.

Great length. Original and quite delicious. (GBQc)

88 François Lurton Sauvignon de Bordeaux 2010, Bordeaux ($11.95) A well-priced Sauvignon Blanc. Very pale in colour with a perfumed bouquet of lychee and cut grass; crisply dry and fresh with flavours of gooseberry and grapefruit. A wine for fish and seafood. (TA)

87 L’Ormarine Carte Noire Picpoul de Pinet 2010, Coteaux de Languedoc ($15.99)

Delicate floral and tropical fruit scents with attractive tropical fruit follow through on the palate. Medium bodied nicely balance, refreshingly

A tasty little sparkler with a nose of toast, citrus, apples and fresh-baked bread. It has a delicate mousse but good vibrancy on the palate with toasty apple fruit and zesty lemon spritz on the finish.

Serve as an aperitif. (RV)

Medium gold with an inviting nose of pears, apples and burnt sugar. Full-bodied, at the apex of maturity as the melon and white peach flavours start to become more austere and complex. The long finish is dry with an interesting trace of bitterness. Excellent with a Waldorf salad. (RL)*

92 Château Bouscassé Vieilles Vignes 2004, Madiran, Southwest ($36.25)

Very dark ruby. Notes of ink hit your nose first, followed by kirsch and jam. Concentrated, ripe flavour, the finely grained tannins give a smooth texture on the palate. Finish is very tight and long. (GBQc)

92 Château Montus Cuvée Prestige 2002, Madiran, Southwest ($53)

Deep colour, almost black.

Nose is subtle but has finesse and richness in its notes of kirsch and licorice. Very

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//the notes supple on the tongue but it shows more firmness in the finish. Ripe, fruity, very elegant middle palate. Still has potential to age another 5 years. (GBQc)

90 Château Bouscassé 2007, Madiran, Southwest ($19.50)

Ruby, very dark. Black fruits, meaty, its nose has depth with notes of licorice. More than full-bodied, generous, the compact tannins have no roughness. A solid wine. (GBQc)

89 Jean-Paul Brun Cuvée Première de Jean-Paul Brun 2010, Beaujolais ($17.99)

The 2009 and 2010 vintages are restoring my faith in Beaujolais, which had been lackluster for too long.

Jean-Paul Brun is a smaller producer with bold ideas who has established quite a following. This example shows emphatic peppery and dark cherry scents followed by a luscious mouthful of dark fruit and grippy minerality. Great mouth feel and excellent balance. (SW)

89 Christian Moueix Pomerol 2008, Pomerol ($37.99)

Refined, complex developing dark fruit and fine cinnamon spice on the nose. Surprising dark fruit with firm but approachable tannins. Youthful acidity apparent but manageable. Well integrated and deftly oaked on the finish. (SW)

87 Christian Moueix Merlot 2005, Bordeaux ($16.99)

Characteristic earthy plum

62 // April 2012

and muted green herbal notes with cinnamon spice on the nose. Generously rounded dark fruit flavour is backed by solid tannic structure, vigorous acidity and a lick of mineral. (SW)

87 Marquis de Jouennes Château de Chamirey 2009, Mercurey, Burgundy ($28.10)

Light ruby. Classic, enticing Pinot Noir nose of small red fruits, cinnamon and hints of earth. Well-dosed oak. A bit acidic in the mouth, there is good fruit in the middle palate of medium to light body. Give it 3 to 4 years to lose a bit of its acidity. Oysters may save those who don’t necessarily want to wait. (GBQc)

86 Brumont Torus 2008, Madiran, Southwest ($16.25)

Young, purplish colour. Nose of cherry and other red fruits. Compact on the palate, clean taste and firm tannins leading to a mediumlength finish. Simple but well made. (GBQc)

86 Domaine Pierre Fil Cuvée Elisyces Minervois 2007, Languedoc ($20)

A blend of Mourvèdre, Carignan, Grenache and Syrah, this is a savoury treat with a funky nose of blueberry, cherry, mocha, cinnamon, plum, roasted coffee bean and earth. It displays sweet, ripe fruit on the palate with added tar, smoke, mint and spice with decent acidity and soft tannins. Try with well-aged gouda and cheddar. (RV)

/Georgia / 84 Tbilvino Cabernet Saperavi 2010, Kakheti Region ($16.99)

A 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with the local Saperavi variety showing aromatic cherry, red currant and a touch of green herb which reprise on the palate with notes of dark cherry and milk chocolate. Clean, straightforward finish. (SW)

/Hungary / 86 Hungaria Grande Cuvée Brut, Budafok ($12)

Yes, a $12 bubbly. Why is it in the notes? Because it’s delicious and it’s also cheap.

We need inexpensive sparklers for everyday drinking and I would happily free-pour this Hungarian bubbly, made with Chardonnay, Rhenish Riesling, Királyleányka and Pinot Noir, for anyone who enters my house. It’s fruity with citrus-orange notes, toast and a vigorous bead of bubbles that are sustained in the glass. This is a nice, friendly sparkler with a flinty-floral note on the finish. Not every sparkling wine needs to bust your wallet. (RV)

full fruity intensity in the mouth. Body is smooth, showing a streak of creaminess, mineral, appetizing acidity and stone fruit. (SW)

88 Bastianich Flor Prosecco, Friuli-Venezia Giulia ($19.99) A rather complex nose with expressive floral, honey and applesauce aromas. The palate pleases with fresh acidity, a softly-textured mousse and delicate fruit flavours. A refreshing finish with a slightly salty tang. Poised to start the party. (HH)

86 Lamberti Santepietre Pinot Grigio 2011, Veneto ($13)

A nose of bright stone fruits, melon and flowers. It’s quite fresh on the palate with peach, melon and citrus fruit notes in a clean, crisp style. A nice pairing with white fish and chicken or simply as an aperitif. (RV)

93 Fabiano Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva ‘I Fondatori’ DOC 2005, Veneto ($78)

/Italy /

Rich, powerful and complex with aromas of dried fig, cherry, raisin and mocha; elegant and refined with penetrating flavours, a full body with rich, velvety tannins and a very long, fresh mineral finish. Fantastic now, but will age very well. (GB)

88 Masi Masianco 2010, Pinot Grigio/Verduzzo Delle Venezie ($16.99)

90 Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo 2008, Toscana ($33.95)

Shows green apple and pear scents that leave you unprepared for the generously ripe,

10% of Merlot is added to this delicious Sangiovese. Deep ruby in colour, it offers a nose

of cherries, chocolate and mint carried on vanilla oak.

With a little air the floral aspect emerges. A very elegant, firmly structured wine, dry and satisfying but needs time. (TA)

89 Monte Antico 2007, Toscana IGT ($16.99)

This Sangiovese/Merlot/Cab Sauv blend delivers perennial drinking pleasure and excellent value. Opens on a rustic nose of earthy cedar and prune aromas, followed by leather and black cherry flavours. Well-integrated wood spice and dry tannins linger elegantly. A very versatile dining companion. (HH)

88 Zenato Cormi 2007, Veneto ($18)

Dark ruby colour. Pleasant nose of cherry, chocolate and a little spice for this blend of Corvina and Merlot. Velvety texture brought by the ripe fruit wrapping fine-grained tannins who show their presence only in the precise finish. Its nice fruity taste makes it ready to drink now with pizza, pasta or grilled red meat. (GBQc)

88 Masi Campofiorin 2008, Rosso del Veronese ($18.99)

Deep cherry colour with aromatics and flavours to match. Fruit shows depth and subtle development with hints of clove and cinnamon.

Warm, rich fruit has the support of solid structure, finishing with harmoniously integrated fruit, fine spice, a splash of coffee/chocolate.

Why not try it with some 80% chocolate then. (SW)

87 Cantina Clavesana D’Oh Dolcetto di Dogliani 2011, Piedmont ($12.95)

The only Dolcetto on the LCBO’s general list. Ruby colour with a nose of ripe cherries; fruity, dry and refreshing, nicely balanced with a cherry pit finish.

Great value and a versatile food wine. (TA)

/Luxembourg / 87 Caves Bernard-Massard Cuvée de l’Écusson Brut Mousseux, ($17.95)

Inviting nose with nice fruit and good freshness. Its flavour has a good presence and roundness in the mouth. Vivid acidity. A touch of bitterness adds complexity. Perfectly dry and a great buy. (GBQc)

/New / Zealand 87 Cottesbrook Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Marlborough ($14.99)

Fresh aromas spring from the glass: herbs, honey melon, passion fruit and a hint of gooseberry. Juicy flavours of green apple, pear and lemon tart please the palate. Well balanced from start to finish. A very appetizing and goodvalue aperitif wine. (HH)

/Portugal / 92 Justino’s 10 Year Old Medium Dry Verdelho, Madeira ($23/375 ml)

Deep amber colour with a nose of toffee and dried peach; elegant, aromatic flavours of

dried fig and lemon with a nutty finish. The flavour goes until you tell it to stop. (TA)

90 Churchill Estates Rosé 2009, Douro ($13)

Striking bright vermilion, a sunset in a glass. Appealing nose of strawberries and Granny Smith from the Touriga Nacional grapes. Mediumbodied and packed with clean bumbleberries. In-your-face yet aristocratic — exactly the rosé one would expect from a portmaker. (RL)*

85 Aliança Vinho Verde 2010, Minho ($9)

Aliança makes a million litres of this white staple from Portugal, so you know it’s a crowd-pleaser around the world, not to mention one of the best bargains on the shelves of wine stores for summer whites. The nose is fresh with melon, citrus and green apple notes. The mouth shows subtle spritz with tart, dry forward citrus fruits. Perfect with fish and seafood. (RV)

85 Cigarra Branco 2010, Vinho Regional Lisboa ($12.99)

A blend of three indigenous grapes with Chardonnay, showing crisply fresh scents of citrus and green apple with equally fresh lively fruit on the palate. Refreshingly light and clean. (SW)

91 Aliança Quinta da Terrugem 2007, Alentejo ($28)

Another Portuguese beauty with a stunning nose of funky cherry, smoke, chocolate, vanilla and complex earthy

notes. Such a different wine from a blend of unusual Portuguese grapes. It’s elegant and complex on the palate with a persistent attack of fruit, firm tannins and layers of spice and oak stylings.

Lovely, long finish. Ideal match with wild game. (RV)

90 Quinta do Noval Black Port, Douro ($24.95)

At this time of the year it’s port season. This innovative style is lighter than a Late Bottled Vintage but there’s no sacrificing intensity of flavour.

A nose of blackcurrants, smoke and tar gives way to more elegant flavours of raspberry and plum on the palate. (TA)

84 Cigarra Tinto 2008, Vinho Regional Lisboa ($12.99)

Interesting aromatics reveal damson plum, cinnamon, clove and herbal scents, shifting to sweet ripe red fruits in the mouth. Medium weight, nicely balanced with lingering plummy and spicy notes on the finish. (SW)

/South / Africa 86 Flat Roof Manor Pinot Grigio 2011, Stellenbosch ($11)

Sometimes an inexpensive little white fits the occasion.

This is a crowd-pleaser with friendly peach, tropical fruits and fresh, forward citrus notes on the nose that carry through to the palate. A white that will appeal to just about everyone at your party. Serve with grilled scallops. (RV)

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//the notes 87 Flagstone Dark Horse Shiraz 2008, West Cape ($18)

A bold, sassy and spicy offering from South Africa that shows blackberry-mulberry fruits on the nose with savoury-peppery notes and a touch of mint. It’s very nice on the palate with substantive and ripe currants, liquorice, tar, cracked black pepper and spice. Big, bold and beautiful! It would pair well with braised lamb shank or oxtail stew. (RV)

/Spain / 89 Jaume Serra Cristalino Brut, Cava ($12.99) Opens with fresh scents of apple, lemon and toasty almond. The lively palate delivers crisp apple, juicy stone fruits, and candied lemon peel. Finishes clean and refreshing, so goes down easy. An ideal aperitif bubbly given its style, and especially so given its price. (HH)

89 Jaume Serra Cristalino Rosé Brut, Cava ($15.99) Salmon-pink colour captures attention along with a fragrant nose of strawberry pie, spice

and lemon curd. Tautly textured on the palate, while bursting with bright red cherry flavour.

Tasty cinnamon-stick spice on the long finish. Delicious with smoked salmon. (HH)

92 Miguel Torres Mas La Plana Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Penedès ($46.95)

Prepare to be astonished by the purity of this Catalonian Cabernet. Cedar, cigar box and crushed blackcurrants leap out of the glass. Elegant and beautifully balanced, the mouthfeel is velvety. It’s tasty now but will hold for a decade. (TA)

90 Can Blau 2008, Montsant ($26.99)

Syrah (40%)/Mazuelo (40%)/ Garnacha (20%) hails from next door to the famed Priorat region in Catalonia. Alluring aromas of smoke, liquorice and red and black fruits on the nose. Juicy black fruits abound on the lush palate. Supple tannins, but with a good grip.

Delicious with osso buco. (HH)

89 Vega Moragona Tempranillo Viñas Viejas 2008, Ribera del Jucar ($17.80) A compelling wine offering

both power and some refinement. Dark fruit bouquet is laced with enticing cinnamon and nutmeg spice. Thickly textured developed dark fruit is supported by firm tannic backbone concluding in a well integrated, satisfying finish. (SW)

89 Farina Gran Colegiata Campus 2005, Toro ($26)

Clear, deep Bing-cherry red.

The bouquet features raspberries, leather and spice. Full-bodied with mouth-watering sour cherries and blackcurrants and a silky mouthfeel. Lots of fruit still evident for aging potential, but the tannins are quite soft. Flank steak is called for here. (RL)*

88 Montecillo Crianza 2007, Rioja ($15)

Made with 100% Tempranillo, it has a wonderful nose of stewed cherries, cassis, spice and a touch of black liquorice. It’s savoury on the palate with sweet spices, mature red fruits and smooth through the finish. Perfect with seared lamb chops or winter stews. (RV)

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64 // April 2012

88 Campo Viejo Crianza 2008, Rioja ($15)

A blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha and Mazuelo, the local name for Carignan.

Bright ruby with an expressive nose of spicy vanilla, ripe red and black fruits (cherry, plum) and earthy notes. Soft on the palate, its fruity taste is well balanced with a round finish of good length. Ready and easy to drink right now, a foodfriendly red to go with a roast of red meat or pasta. (GBQc)

87 Vega Moragona Tempranillo 2010, Ribera del Jūcar ($13.99) Spicy ripe red berry scents open the way for a powerful whallop of alcohol together with rich blackberry fruit, firm tannic grip, dark chocolate and oak on the finish.

Emphatic, robust wine. (SW)

87 Palacio de Sada Crianza 2006, Navarra ($14.95)

A tasty Tempranillo at a bargain price. Dense purple ruby in colour with a spicy, cedary, vanilla oak nose; medium-bodied with ripe cherry fruit flavours, a floral grace note and a firm tannic finish. (TA)

87 Farina Gran Colegiata 2004, Toro ($19) Deep garnet with fine particles. The nose shows lots of oak, vanilla, plums and prunes. From a ripe vintage, this has lots of alcohol and port-like flavours, featuring stewed plums, but a bit one-dimensional. The tannins are softening; this will get better with a little more time. (RL)*

/United / States 87 Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc 2009, Napa Valley ($23)

Mondavi pioneered this style of oak-aged Sauvignon Blanc from Napa Valley. The nose shows passion fruits, peach, creamy spice and ripe, exotic notes that jump from the glass. On the palate, the grapefruit, peach and tropical fruits are joined by vanilla spice, mouth-watering acidity and a rounded mouthfeel. (RV)

91 Gallo Family Frei Ranch Vineyard Zinfandel 2009, Sonoma County ($37.95) There’s a little Petite Sirah in this massive, full-blown Zinfandel. Deep ruby in colour with a creamy nose of plum and blackberry; sweet succulent fruit offering plum and blackcurrant flavours backed by sweet oak and peppery notes. (TA)

91 Merryvale Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Napa Valley ($109) Elegant, rich and subtle, with ripe, spicy currant, black cherry and plum

flavours, great balance and concentration, supple and mouth-coating with an amazing finish that lingers with flavour. Great with roasted meats. (GB)

89 Château St Jean Merlot 2007, Sonoma County ($35)

A nose of cherry and cassis, sweet oak, kirsch and lovely spices. The cherry-berry fruits are lush on the palate with added chocolate and spice notes. It’s not an overdone Merlot and shows some elegance through the finish. Pair with veal, lamb or beef stews. (RV)

89 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Napa Valley ($35)

This iconic Napa Valley producer doesn’t disappoint with the 2008 version of its classic Cabernet. The nose is rich in spiced plums, generous red fruits, cloves, toasty spice and fine oak notes. It’s supple and polished on the palate with plums, blackberry, cassis, liquorice and a subtle yet defining note of eucalyptus through the finish. It’s a big, fruity Cab from Napa but balanced with acid and spice. Wonderful. Pair with grilled flat-iron steak with maitake mushrooms. (RV)

89 Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Napa Valley ($82)

Full, rich and concentrated with ripe aromas of blackberry, blackcurrant, cedar, coffee and mocha; a powerful, full body, firm tannins and a rich, dark finish. Needs grilled red meat. (GB)

88 Renwood Petite Sirah 2009, Shenandoah Valley ($27.99)

Deliciously rich and deep, ripe and bold, with a complex mix of currant, wild berry and blackberry flavours; big fruit-laden tannins, but still vibrant and fresh. Ribs and BBQ. (GB)

88 Gallo Family Frei Ranch Vineyard Zinfandel 2007, Sonoma County ($38.75)

Spicy nose with dark fruits (plum) and a touch of alcohol. The signs of reduction will go away after a while or if you carafe it for an hour before drinking. Soft and warm on the tongue, it shows an intense flavour and a velvety texture. It finishes a bit earthy with a slight burning sensation, typical of Zinfandel. (GBQc)

87 Sledgehammer Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, North Coast ($19.95)

Here is a commercial Cab with blackcurrant, blackberry and plum fruit swirling around a core of oak-influenced spice and cocoa.

Medium-plus length and somewhat firm tannins make this a solid steak wine. (ES)

/Spirits / Bruichladdich 21 Year Old Single Malt Scotch, Islay, Scotland ($165/700 ml)

Subtly floral with aromas of salty sea air; a touch of smokiness with a light fruitiness, spice, sweet

nuttiness and a long sherry finish. Elegant and very drinkable. (GB)

Jack Daniels Old No 7 (Black Label) 40%, United States ($26.98)

Shows vanilla spiciness on the nose with complex pencil box woody notes and a hint of banana. Mellow, rounded, almost creamy, with harmoniously integrated fruity, spicy flavours on the palate. Long spicy finish has just enough fiery warmth. (SW)

Jack Daniels Gentleman Jack 40%, United States ($40.99)

Fine mellow, fruity and floral aromatics with subtle oaky background scent. Rich, powerful taste reveals fruity citrus and somewhat ashy dryness with a forceful, spirity finish. A very fine Whiskey.

Not for mixing. (SW)

Poli Pere, Veneto, Italy ($72/500 ml)

Intense pear aromas with pure pear flavours, a hint of spice, elegant with a long finish. A pure essence of pear. Use it in a flambé or in poaching pears. (GB)

Citadelle 6C Vodka 40%, France ($34.99)

Distilled in a very small Alambic Charentais this sophisticated spirit has an amazingly fragrant, elusively floral and spirity nose. Light, oily smoothness on the palate reveals surprisingly full flavour, no sense of rawness, yet a pleasantly warming touch of alcohol on the finish.

The best vodka I have tasted for some time. (SW)

tidingsmag.com

\\ 65

hair today, gone tomorow\\

This past November I grew a Movember moustache. I hadn’t sported one since 1972 and it drove me nuts. I couldn’t wait until December 1st to shave the damn thing off. I felt obligated to keep it for the month since I had contracted to grow it on the understanding that family members, friends and colleagues would actually put good money down to support the cause of prostate cancer.

The itchiness was one thing, but worse, it affected the way I tasted wine. I say “tasted” advisably since you taste with your nose. Without a shadow of doubt your nose is your most important organ — when it comes to wine tasting. You can smell four hundred molecules of a substance, but in order to taste that same substance you need at least twenty-five thousand molecules dissolved in the saliva of your tongue. Which shows you just how acute your nose is, relative to your palate.

Your tongue is a blunt instrument; it registers only five basic tastes: sweet, sour, salt, bitter and umami (a Japanese term for a sweet and sour taste, like soy sauce). The real work of differentiating tastes is done at the top of the nose — little hairs that receive the message from our taste buds and fan out those five basic tastes to all the hundreds of flavours we can identify.

But unless your nose is clear you’re not going to taste properly.

That’s why food doesn’t taste great when you have a cold and your nose is blocked.

My wife Deborah insists we have a teaspoonful of fish oil at breakfast as a nutrient supplement. It is obnoxious stuff and the only way I can get it down is by holding my nose when I swallow.

And then immediately I take a swig of orange juice to neutralize the taste before my brain finally reacts to what I’ve ingested.

66 // April 2012

final word

by tony aspler

So how does my erstwhile, unlamented moustache come into it? When I’m tasting wine I habitually rest the rim of the glass against my philtrum. (In case you’re rushing to the dictionary to see if I’m doing something obscene, the philtrum is the groove between your nose and your upper lip.)

When I grew my moustache I lost my groove.

The wiry hair pushed the rim of the glass away from the usual angle at which I hold a glass under my nostrils. First, the scratchy sound of the bristles brushing against glass was distracting and then the itching started, and somehow familiar wines began to smell different. I kept the moustache scrupulously clean but it had a smell of its own. Not of soap but rather feral, like a dog that’s been left out in the rain.

I had thought if I ever felt moved to keep the moustache that I would become accustomed to it, to the point where I wasn’t even aware I had one. Rather like those French winemakers of my acquaintance who smoke through tastings. They’ve gotten used to appraising wine through the filter of tar and nicotine.

What was most disturbing is that my awareness of my hairy lip and the way that it made me change my tasting routine somehow became the wine’s fault. I was just not enjoying the daily ritual of tasting. I don’t know if this was reflected in the scores I awarded but I do know that my threshold of patience was lowered. I was quickly irritated by plastic corks, any suggestion of oxidation, the merest whiff of corkiness or a wine that was blatantly overpriced.

But now the moustache has gone and all’s right with the world. I’ve got my mojo back. Oh, and I raised $1,000 in pledges for prostate cancer research. •

illustration: FRancesco Gallé, www.francescogalle.com

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