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www.hardys.com.au Please enjoy responsibly
//features 20// extract
by carolyn evans-hammond Another word for concentration, extract is what good wine boils down to.
22// old vines by michael pinkus
Does maturity matter?
24// saint-jo! by evan saviolidis
32
This northern Rhône stalwart creates intensity.
28// body and mind by Brenda McMillan
Eating and drinking keep mind and body together.
30// winning it by tim pawsey
British Columbia’s whole new wave of white blends.
32// heat seeking by merle rosenstein
Tidings interviews 4 mixologists for their favourite winter warm-up.
35// gifts that keep them sipping by rick vansickle
What bottle should I give you? Tips on giving wine.
39// barley wine by merle rosenstein
From the barrel to the bottle this enticing brewing style is making waves.
42// winter wanderings
by Rosemary Mantini Get some help planning your next trip.
45// and then there’s ... by duncan holmes
42 22
Can offal be great?
tidingsmag.com
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//Ă la carte 7// Contributors 8// from the editor 11// Conversations Letters to the editor.
13// feed
Tom Delarzac
14// Umami Joanne Will
17// lazy mixologist Crystal Luxmore
18// Bon Vivant Peter Rockwell
44// must try ron liteplo
51// Matter of taste sheila swerling-puritt
52// Davine
Gurvinder Bhatia
55// Bouquet Garni Nancy Johnson
44
66// final word
52
//notes 50// the mav notes
54// the food notes
An appetizing selection of food-friendly faves.
Tony Aspler
58// The Buying Guide
Top wines from around the world scored.
Australia // p. 58 austria // p. 58 Canada // p. 59-61 chile // p. 61 France // p. 61-62 germany // p. 62 italy // p. 62-63
4 // December 2012/January 2013
17
New Zealand // p. 63 Portugal // p. 63 South Africa // p. 63 spain // p. 63-64 United States // p. 64-65
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+ more on tidingsmag.com
Follow us on twitter and tumblr Quenchbytidings.tumblr.com twitter.com/quenchbytidings A former engineer, Gilles Bois is now devoting time to his passion, tasting wines from all over the world and meeting the people who make them. As a wine judge or in the vineyard, he is always on the lookout for an original bottle worth writing about.
Holiday Décor Learn how to make pretty winter-themed crafts with minimal fuss and maximum effect.
Recipe Feast Prepare this impressive festive buffet of Dungeness Crab with Wasabi Soy and Pickled Ginger, Grilled Beef Tenderloin with Sage Stuffing and Mushroom Sauce, Madeira Carrots, and more.
Travel Visit the top 10 wine destinations in Canada.
Gift Guide Nancy Johnson minced, sliced, chopped, sauteed and sipped her way through George Brown College’s culinary program with a focus on food writing and wine. Nancy cooks by the code her Italian grandmother taught her: For the best results, always use the freshest, best ingredients. She writes for Ohio-based Wine Buzz Magazine and recently published a short story in Woman’s World Magazine. She is always on a diet.
Peter Rockwell offers his take on the best gifts for hardto-buy-for family and friends.
Cooking Challenge Tempt your sweet tooth with Chocolate-Filled Macarons.
blogs Get your food and wine fix, updated weekly. This month, KitchenMama tests the tastiest holiday cookies.
Plus!
More original recipes; a daily serving of
food and drink news and views; culinary tips, tricks and techniques.
Merle Rosenstein channels her energy and curiosity into writing about food, drink, travel, and health and fitness and has been published in wherecanada.ca, AOL Travel Canada, Edible Toronto and TAPs magazine. Merle is also a staff writer for Canadian Traveller. You can catch up with Merle on Twitter and at www.newfreelancerwriter.wordpress.com.
Next Month In Tidings Starting a Vineyard: A Sane Person’s Guide To Insanity On the shores of Greece The intensity of amarone and ripasso The reds of the Loire and Algarve Deep flavoured sauces
Ron’s “Aha” wine experience occurred in 1979, when he had an affair with a case of 1961 Garrafeira from Portugal. Life since has been a quest for similarly fulfilling experiences, occasionally successful.
Niagara’s artisanal brewers and distilleries ... And So Much More
tidingsmag.com
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//from the editor December 2012 January 2013 Issue # 308
go now It is tough to give gifts. I’ve even thought about avoiding the whole thing. I can barricade myself in my home and wait till the snow melts. It sounds like a great idea. There is a problem though. As much as I hate giving gifts people love receiving them. So I’m left with finally breaking down and buying something — but what. You see my problem isn’t that I don’t like my friends or would rather not give anything. My issue is that I don’t know what to give. I’m always looking to replace the most mundane of gift ideas and sometimes it ends in disaster. If I have to give one more pair of socks or a scarf, I’ll truly lose my mind. On the other hand a lot of my friends do expect me to give them booze for the holidays. Being the editor of Tidings does give me an inside track on the more interesting bottles (see page 35 for Rick VanSickle’s article on gifting wine). I don’t mind exploiting my intel. But what happens when I’ve given you bottle after bottle? The sentiment is nice but it all lacks a certain originality.
\\
Editor-in-chief
Aldo Parise editor@tidingsmag.com Contributing Editors
Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart Contributing food Editor
Nancy Johnson Contributing Lifestyle Editor
Rosemary Mantini Columnists
Tony Aspler, Peter Rockwell, Michael Volpatt, Joanne Will, Sheila Swerling-Puritt, Ron Liteplo Contributors
Sean Wood, Harry Hertscheg, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Rick VanSickle, Brenda McMillan, Carolyn Evans-Hammond, Merle Rosenstein, Tim Pawsey, Michael Pinkus, Duncan Holmes Tasters
Tony Aspler, Rick VanSickle, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Jonathan Smithe, Ron Liteplo and Gurvinder Bhatia COPY DESK
This is where my charities kick in. For years my wife and I have been donating, in our friends names, to micro-finance web sites like Kiva. The idea being that a small bit of gift cash we might have goes a long way in places like Guatemala or central Africa. It’s always been much appreciated by our friends, and we know it will be useful to those in need. But the charity closest to my heart has always been Charity Water. They have helped hundreds of thousands of people in developing countries get access to clean water by providing well drilling to villages that need them most. Residents avoid long walks through sometimes treacherous areas while providing them with safe water for cooking and hygiene. So this holiday season I’d like to ask you to join my family in donating to those charities you feel a kindle to. And please enjoy yourselves. All of us at Tidings surely will.
Grace Yaginuma, Kathy Sinclair web editor
Rosemary Mantini Creative by Paris Associates Art Direction
Aldo Parise Production
ww+Labs, cmyk design, studio karibü Illustrations & Photography
Matt Daley, Francesco Gallé, Push/Stop Studio, august photography, Westen Photo Studio Cover Design
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Audited by
8 // December 2012/January 2013
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conversations\\
Kylix Media CFO
Lucy Rodrigues Circulation
circ@tidingsmag.com
I completely agree with Tod Stewart (“Gotcha By The Glass”). I’m sick and tired of being forced to empty my wallet for a decent glass of wine. Alicia Ross, email
... It was the house wine in every restaurant I visited on a recent trip to that part of Italy ...
Accounts
Marilyn Barter accounts@tidingsmag.com Advertising Representation Dovetail Communications
Senior Account Executive Jacquie Rankin: jrankin@dvtail.com 9 05-886-6640 ext 304 Sales Associate Amanda Jones: ajones@dvtail.com 905-886-6640 ext. 308 www.tidingsmag.com www.tidingseats.com Now in our 39 th year Kylix Media, 5165 Sherbrooke St. West, Suite 414, Montreal, Quebec, H4A 1T6, Tel: 514.481.6606, Fax: 514.481.9699. Subscription Rates: Canada: $36 per year, $58 per 2 years, USA: $55 per year, Other: $75 per year. Single Copies: $5.95. Tidings, Canada’s Food & Wine Magazine, a registered trademark of Kylix Media, is published 8 times a year: (February/March, April, May/June, July/August, September, October, November, December/January). Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. © 2012 Kylix Media Inc. Printed in Canada. ISSN-0228-6157. Publications Mail Registration No. 40063855. Member of the Canadian Federation of Independent Business.
Tidings uses 10% post-consumer recycled fibres
I really didn’t know very much at all about Hungarian wine until I read Tony Aspler’s article about it. I had a chance to try the Fríz Mátrai Hárslevelű 2008 at a friend’s home recently, and it was truly lovely. George Walker, email
I was pleased to see that Gurvinder Bhatia notes that Cannonau (aka Grenache) is widely planted in Sardinia. It was the house wine in every restaurant I visited on a recent trip to that part of Italy. Alison Dubois, Quebec City
Nancy Johnson’s anecdotes always make me laugh. Her recipes are always a hit, too. This time, her Chèvre, Garlic and Sun-Dried Tomato Pizza provided the perfect twist to our usual pizza night. No more delivery or boxed pizzas for us. I’ve added this one to my recipe rotation list. Marisa Johnson, Winnipeg
Re: “Why Cellar” by Crystal Luxmore, although I can appreciate why someone might want to cellar beer, I can’t seem to ever bring myself to do it. Most of us have been raised with the idea that beer is for drinking now. I like the concept, and I think I’d like to give it a try. Harjit Attard, email
Material chosen for publication may be edited for clarity and fit. Please e-mail your comments and questions to editor@tidingsmag.com.
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\\ 11
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breaking with tradition\\
Christmas is in the air. My family is Eastern European, so we probably celebrate a bit different than some. For instance, everything happens on Christmas Eve, while Christmas Day we rest. Yes, we still have a Christmas tree and keep the tradition of Santa alive for everyone (he is real, you know), but there are some subtle differences. For example, Santa comes during the Christmas Eve post-dinner; his jolly old self storms into the house and hands out presents to everyone. On the flip side, that means we get to sleep in the next morning. Before all this happens, the fun for me is just getting started: dinner. (Or better called the feast.) Christmas Eve is always a fast for us, which means no meat. But that doesn’t stop us from eating like kings. You can expect to find a wide variety of herring available. Who knew you could have five types in one sitting? There are also spectacular sides of vegetables and salads. The star, though, is always fish. A classic whole white fish stuffed with salt, pepper, lemon, parsley and butter. After many years of the same old dish, last year, I was asked to change it up a bit, and I gladly accepted the challenge. There is a lot of pressure-cooking for the main course, but I was more than willing to give it a try. So I embarked on a journey to update the boring old fish dish, and based on the reviews, I succeeded. Welcome the new star of Christmas Eve dinner, horseradish salmon! The key to this dish is the fresh horseradish, but be warned it does burn the eyes a bit during prep. The flavour it produces is ten times better than the pre-made stuff. Also, before your guests go running for the hills, let them know the taste mellows out while baking. Here’s to new traditions.
feed
by tom De larzac
horseradish salmon Serves 4
450 g salmon fillet, skin optional (divided into 4 equal pieces) 1/2 cup Panko breadcrumbs 2 tbsp melted butter 1/2 cup freshly grated horseradish (in the produce section of most larger supermarkets) 1/4 cup parsley, freshly chopped (divided into 2) 4 tbsp mustard (whole grain or Dijon) 2 tbsp olive oil
1. Preheat oven to 325˚F. Preheat an ovenproof frying pan on the stove over medium heat.
2. Mix breadcrumbs, butter, horseradish and half the parsley in a bowl to combine.
3. Pat dry salmon (if the skin is on, place skin-side down),
season with salt and pepper and spread 1 tbsp of mustard on the top of each piece . Evenly divide horseradish mixture between each piece of salmon. 4. Add olive oil to a frying pan. Place salmon in the pan with horseradish up and space evenly. Leave on stovetop for 45 seconds (double if using skin-on). 5. Place pan in oven for 15 minutes or till salmon is firm to the touch (time will depend on salmon thickness). …… Serve with a vibrant Viognier or stinging Riesling.
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\\ 13
3 good things on a plate\\
umami
by joanne will
Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, that British bastion of home cooking, champion of wild and sustainable food, promoter of foraging, saviour of battered chickens and over-fished stocks, has a new cookbook and TV series based on a numerical concept. Hugh’s Three Good Things on a Plate celebrates the trios of ingredients that form the foundation of the book’s many dishes, and aims to inspire anyone in a food rut by pointing out a pattern which already underpins many of our favourite recipes. According to FearnleyWhittingstall, most successful dishes can be deconstructed to reveal that even in the most elaborate creations, there
14 // December 2012/January 2013
are three key ingredients. When it comes to cuisine, three may just be a magic number. Think scallops, bacon and pea purée; salmon, lemon and dill; bacon, lettuce and tomato; beans, rice and cheese; raspberries, chocolate and mascarpone. He suggests examining your favourite trios, swapping ingredients and creating new combinations based on the idea of three complementary elements in which the whole plate becomes greater than the sum of its parts. With this approach, he writes that the key is to combine flavours and textures so that each ingredient shines and somehow tastes more “of itself.” In some cases, supplementary ingredients will be added, or perhaps when examining a recipe you’ll find there are elements apart from the core trio that don’t really need to be there. In any event, the concept aims to inspire and encourage us to experiment based on the concept of threes. While reading the book I thought about some of my own favourite trinities: egg, smoked salmon and toast; yogurt, fruit and seeds; lamb, mint and lemon; broccoli, chili and garlic; carrot, ginger and coconut; lentils, cauliflower and curry; beans, chorizo and scallops. What also came to mind was a simple lemon square we made at home when I was growing up. You probably won’t want to think about, let alone prepare or eat, another dessert after days (or weeks) of holiday feast-
ing, but this recipe is a gift for the whole year. Not only was it an easy dish to make as a youngster, it remains popular with the multi-generations in my family. It may already be in your current repertoire, or buried in your culinary history. In any case, it’s a simple celebration of three good things on a plate.
lemon squares
Graham crackers (preferably a brand which doesn’t contain hydrogenated oil or high-fructose corn-syrup) 1 can sweetened condensed milk 2 lemons
1. Line an 8 x 8 square pan with a layer of graham crackers,
making sure they fit snugly together and reach the edges and corners. 2. In a bowl mix the sweetened condensed milk with the juice and rind from the lemons until thickened. Pour over graham wafers and spread evenly, and add another layer of wafers on top to fit the pan. 3. These are best prepared in advance, up to 24 hours. Cover, refrigerate, and allow the filling to set and soften the wafers. …… Cut into squares and enjoy with tea, milk or coffee.
tidingsmag.com
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lazy mixologist
smoked up\\
There’s something about smoke that is masculine and downright sexy. Its slow, slinky trails and powerful aromas of wood and dank earth remind me of a lumberjack crossed with a refined gentleman, smoking a cigar in a plush leather armchair in his den. Translation? The perfect man. Perhaps that’s why I can’t stay away from the smoked cocktails that are popping up on bar menus across the country. And they’re popular stateside too. On a recent trip to Brooklyn, New York I ordered a Smoked Old Fashioned at a hip little corner restaurant, the Brooklyn Star. Made with smoked simple syrup, it was a subtle take on the smoke trend — the rye shone through, its grainy peppery notes marrying nicely with a smooth, smoky finish. I wanted to taste the smoke. So that’s what I ordered at Williamsburg’s hottest cocktail bar, Dram, where the all-knowing bartenders wow you by making a tipple that somehow exactly fits the vague description you offer. In my case I asked for a drink that put the smoke firmly in the foreground. What I got was a kind of peat sour, made up of equal parts Laphroaig Quarter Cask Single Malt Scotch Whisky, Green Chartreuse, Maraschino Liqueur and lime juice. It came in a tiny bowl glass, all lime green and crushed ice, and looked like a margarita. But the nose was all barbecue and smoked peat. The drink awoke every taste bud in my mouth — hitting the sour, spicy and sweet notes, until the smoke took over, outlasting them all. Wow. The bartender told me whenever he makes a smoked cocktail, he loves to work with a smoky spirit instead of adding smoked flavour. But I wanted to find a smoked essence that I could experiment with in different cocktails, so I hit Toronto’s BYOB when I returned home. There I found Fire and Damnation Bitters by Bad Dog Barcraft. Made with molasses, habanero peppers and smoked flavours, it was sweet, very hot and had that signature smoked-rib scent I was after.
+ Visit tidingsmag.com/drinks/ for more drink recipes
by crystal luxmore
I decided to use it in a Manhattan. I liked the Old Fashioned but thought that the sugar in the drink distracted from the deep, smoky flavour. I made two versions — one with Canadian Club Rye Whiskey and the other with Woodford Reserve Bourbon. I started by adding two or three drops of the bitters to each drink, but found the smokiness too subtle. So I added three drops more and found the right balance. The smoke melded almost seamlessly with the bourbon, so I could barely detect it — whereas in the rye, it was more of its own complementary note — and that’s why, for a smoked drink, I picked the Rye Manhattan as the winner.
smoked manhattan 2
oz rye whiskey oz sweet vermouth (pro tip: bartenders love Dolin Rouge) 3 drops Angostura bitters 6 drops Bad Dog Fire & Damnation Bitters Slice of orange peel Mix rye, vermouth and bitters in a shaker with ice. Strain into glass. Twist orange peel and squeeze on top, then rub orange peel around inside rim of glass before disposing. Add 1 sliced maraschino cherry on rim to garnish.
1/2
tidingsmag.com
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bon vivant before its time and champers\\ by peter rockwell
18 // December 2012/January 2013
it up, try and force some age on it. In the end you’re drinking a pale comparison to what some hibernation will add to the wine. That said, if you’ve got some 21st-century First-Growth Bordeaux burning a hole in your cellar, just drop me an email, I’ll be happy to help you waste your dough ...
C
M
Y
CM
MY
What makes Champagne more expensive than a sparkling wine? I love it when two questions come together, especially when a lot of the last one is in play when it comes to all that sparkles. One thing you have to know is that while all Champagne is sparkling wine, not all sparkling wine is Champagne. The small French region of Champagne — about an hour north of Paris — just happens to be famous for making the world’s best bubbly. That doesn’t mean you can’t get your effervescence on elsewhere; it’s just that it’s not going to cost you an arm and a leg. Back to the last question: who you are, where you are and what you’re made from is a Champagne specialty. While the region has pumped out liquid gold for centuries (and you tend to get famous for something you’ve been good at for a long time), fermented facsimiles made in a similar manner are available from just about any country that makes wine. They’re cheaper because, well, they’re not from Champagne. Countries like Spain, Chile and the USA — who typically use the traditional Champagne method of production that sees a second fermentation occurring in the bottle — don’t have as many rules to make wine by as the French, so they can create more juice, which translates to a less-expensive (and usually very tasty) wine. If you’ve got Champagne taste and a wallet to match, never hesitate drinking a big gun from France. If your budget is a tad more conservative, your average under-$20 international sparkler is more than adequate. Really cheap sparkling wines have their bubbles infused into them like a soft drink does and should be avoided at any cost.
+ Ask your questions at bonvivant@tidingsmag.com
CY
CMY
K
Illustration: Matt Daley/Shinypliers.com
Is it really wrong to drink a wine before its time? I really hope you’re paraphrasing Orson Welles’ line from those cheesy Paul Masson commercials from the 1970s — I really, really do. For those of you too young to remember, back in the day, Mr Citizen Kane — in all his hugeness — hammed his way through a series of adverts for Masson’s California winery which (according to Welles) would never sell a wine before its time. (Check out the ads on YouTube: Orson looks half in the bag.) At the time Masson was king of the US jug-wine industry, so I’m betting that any time was the right time for him to let loose his juice. Drinking a wine before its “time” is another matter altogether. What you’ve got to realize is that most wines you see on your local liquor-store shelves are designed to be drunk pretty early. Winemakers know that, like me, most of you can’t wait to wrap your lips around a glass, so most purchased wine of late barely makes it past the 24-hour mark before the cap is cracked or cork is pulled. So while the time is now for just about everything you’re tossing into your day-to-day shopping basket, price does have a habit of being the great equalizer. I could go on forever about why wines cost what they do (and will a bit more in the next question), but the long and short of it is that expensive wines are either rare, hard to make, famous enough to ask the big bucks or a combination of all three. As a general rule you pay for longevity so, yes, while you could guzzle anything at any time, I say it’s wrong to crack open a wine you’ve melted your credit card purchasing before it’s had time to age its way to drinkability. (One caveat to my theory would be an older, matured wine you’ve shelled out mucho dinero for. That you should pour ASAP). What you lose when you open a wine that’s far too young is the nuance that time in the bottle brings. You’re never going to get your money’s worth from a powerhouse wine from a recent vintage if you suck it right away. Sure, you can decant it, shake
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Extract Urban Dictionary’s definition of Crocs: Quite possibly the easiest form of birth control.
by Carolyn Evans-hammond I couldn’t agree more. I also agree with the widespread sentiment that Gusto 101 — that newish restaurant in Toronto — is a testament to the quality of the city’s casual dining scene. I like it there. The people are young, but not too young — 35 to 40-ish. Stylish. Urban. None of the “Get off my lawn!” set. But no 20-something, straight-from-the-mall bling-dongs with that “I’m not looking at you; you’re looking at me” demeanour either. The vibe is cool. The food fabulous. And the service just invisible enough. The beef tartare is the best raw meat I’ve had the pleasure of pressing against the roof of my mouth. It’s a mix of cow, fig, ricotta cream and truffle oil. Clearly there’s more than a trifle of truffle, given that each bite tastes more potent than Ryan Gosling, George Clooney and Channing Tatum put together. I’ll leave you for a moment with that thought. Done? Okay. Let’s carry on. Gusto! Right. My friend swears by the Brick Chicken with Moroccan spices. The bird is cooked sous-vide then finished on the grill, so I imagine its texture is probably more tender than a baby’s gluteus maximus. Anyway, he raves about it and orders it every time he goes there. No idea how it actually tastes. Never had it myself or even asked for a bite. To me, chicken is the
20 // December 2012/January 2013
bland, in-between thing to turn to when there’s nothing enticing on the menu. And at Gusto 101, there’s no reason to call fowl. But the last time I went it wasn’t for the food but the wine. I was intent on tasting the buck-an-ounce house-made vino recommended by a colleague in the wine industry. Apparently, he says, the guy who makes it knows what he’s doing, gets the juice from an excellent source and treats the whole process with the appropriate tender loving care, so I shouldn’t expect the usual brew-your-own swill. So, off I went and ordered a glass of the Gusto Bianco Pinot Grigio. Vile. Oxidized. The kind of wine where upon tasting it you think, they should be paying me to drink this swill. Instead of tasting lovely, delicate and perhaps a tad floral and gently mineral, it was like a bottle of cheap wine that had been left open on the counter overnight — slightly sharp with that telltale aroma suggestive of vinegar. All around unpleasant. The moral of the paragraph? If you’re at Gusto 101 and want a nice, light white that’s dry, crisp and refreshing, go for the Prosecco Santomé. It’s not exactly a steal at $9.95 for five ounces, but it’s pure, pear-scented pleasure, teeming with extract. And Prosecco with extract is a beautiful thing. Extract — the other word for concentration — is what good wine boils down to.
And I mean that quite literally. Extract is what would be left after boiling. And it is one of the three keys of quality wine. I remember chatting with a fellow wine writer about 10 years ago in London. Tim Atkin is his name. He said to me over a fine fish lunch and a bottle of Louis Roederer Brut Premier Champagne, “Concentration, complexity and length: Those are the three hallmarks of quality wine. Simple as that, really.” That snapshot truth has always stuck with me. Concentration is not to be confused with tannins or fruit forwardness. Tannins are felt around the gums as a drying sensation, often described as similar in mouthfeel to walnut skins or strong black tea; it’s not about concentration at all. And fruit forward means the wine tastes fruity regardless of its concentration. For instance, Chablis can be very restrained and mineral — showing very few primary fruit characteristics — yet it can teem with extract and thus be incredibly concentrated. Felt mid-palate, concentration is the power of a wine. Like so much of wine appreciation, the best way to learn is through tasting. So I’ve put together a list of some delicious winter wines that do indeed brim with concentration. The whites on the list are all trade favourites from Ontario — serious world-class bottlings. The reds are a mixed bag of fun.
Closson Chase Vineyard South Clos Chardonnay 2009, Prince Edward County, Ontario ($39) This intense wine is a prime example of rich in extract yet not fruit forward. It reminds me of a grand cru Chablis from the Les Clos region, where that intriguing dichotomy of sly restraint and plunging power play on the palate. The nose is gently saline, while the palate is focused and hints at smoke, granite, steel, nutmeg, flint and damp herbs; nods toward grapefruit and lemon pith; then elongates toward a riveting stony finish. Quite a serious wine.
Norman Hardie Winery and Vineyard Unfiltered Chardonnay 2008, Wellington, Ontario ($35) Ms Jancis Robinson MW, one of the world’s most respected wine critics, called this wine “Really very Burgundian” when she tasted it in the summer of 2012. And when I tasted it in September of this year, that sentiment still held true; the wine remained well balanced and developed beautifully. Rich aromas of buttered toast, crème brûlée and lemon custard lead to tightly wound flavours layered with white grapefruit, warm brazil nut and crushed granite. A long, generous finish gives this silky, slinky wine elegance and finesse. It’s not fruity but indeed quite rich in extract. Get it?
Southbrook Vineyards Poetica Chardonnay 2009, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario ($50) This biodynamic and organic beauty is slightly tropical on the nose, then hits the palate briskly before centring mid-palate and expanding exponentially. Understated flavours of lime purée, grapefruit and orange zest resonate beautifully, then turn to white pepper and a long cinnamon finish. A delish and stylish choice.
Le Clos Jordanne Talon Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay 2009, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario ($40) Another wine modelled on the Burgundian form, this graceful and seamless yet concentrated gem shows no garish fruit whatsoever. Polished and poised with notes of pear, wet stones, toasted coconut, freshly rolled pastry and the slightest suggestion of toffee and sea salt. Fabulous stuff.
Two Hands Gnarly Dudes Shiraz 2010, Barossa Valley, Australia ($30) Serious concentration here. Think blockbuster red brimming with puréed plum, chocolate-covered black cherries, milky coffee, liquorice and pepper. It’s certainly fruit forward but also quite savoury.
Wolf Blass Cabernet Sauvignon Yellow Label 2010, Australia ($17) This wine yields the complexity and structure that makes it drink like a bottle worth twice the price. Clean aromas of cassis and macerated berries lead to articulate flavours of ripe cherries, Black Forest fruit, nutty oak, white pepper, mocha and a sassy little note of mint. Finely grained tannins give it poise, finesse and a certain gravitas — very appealing.
Vistalba Corte Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Mendoza, Argentina ($20) This stunning wine offers the richness of Malbec with the noble charm of Cabernet Sauvignon to grand effect. Mouth-coating flavours of macerated Black Forest fruits with a good crank of black pepper, cinnamon, espresso, dark chocolate, smoke, cassis and a long smoked black cherry finish. Full-bodied with 14.5% alcohol. Thrilling $20 bottle that drinks like a $40 one — at least. •
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Old Vines. by michael pinkus
It’s a romantic term that brings to mind age, maturity, a certain majesty if you will — when in fact it means nothing, legally. There is no law in the annals of wine history that dictates how old an old vine is supposed to be before it is given that designation. It’s random and up to the producer. The general rule is that any vine over 20 years of age is considered old, and in some cases no longer viable to produce enough fruit. Yet there is something romantic and majestic about an elderly vine. The trunk is thicker, more tree-like than vine-ish. Sure it produces less fruit, but it’s of outstanding quality, making it hard to just rip out to make room for a younger, more vigorous vine. Old-vine wine is complex; it has depth of character and a story to tell, which is one of the reasons we drink wine in the first place. Derek Barnett of Lailey Vineyard in Ontario recognized the potential of his old vines (planted in 1978) when he first segregated the vines in 2002 under the “limited edition” designation. “Old vines make a huge difference and we give them more respect,” he says emphatically. “Deeper flavour, richer texture, less aromatic but more fruit, even when using the same yeasts as on the younger vine fruit; the difference is always there.” A tasting of his first effort with Chardonnay showed pineapple and coconut, flinty notes with a spicy finish — it was alive and well, especially for a decade-old wine. Derek attributes this to the age of the vines and has no intention of ripping them out as long as he can make some wine from them. Not all old-vine wines are designated as such on the label; in many cases the consumer has to do a little research, even if it’s just reading the back label, but that little bit of research can pay off big dividends in the glass. Some countries tout their old vines more than others; Australia and the United States seem to shout it on the front label, while the Spanish couch it on the back label.
22 // December 2012/January 2013
There was a movement among Australian winemakers to bring the term “tri-century” into the vernacular. That does not mean 300-year-old vines; it means vines that have survived in three centuries (the 1800s, 1900s and into the 2000s). Whatever the term, old vines are something special, and what you’ll really notice is the flavour intensity in the glass.
Lailey Vineyard Old Vines Pinot Noir 2010, Ontario ($45)
Derek Barnett says that “old vines Pinot has less colour but better flavour,” and it’s really apparent here — you could actually read the newspaper through this wine. A nose of spiced raspberry and white pepper leads to a palate of rich raspberry and spiced-pepper with a little leathery-earthy note on the finish.
Castaño Solanera Viña Viejas 2009, Spain ($16)
A blend of Monastrell, Cabernet Sauvignon and Garnacha — sweet black fruit with a vanilla seam; delightful, delicious and a perfect accompaniment for grilled meats.
Domaine les Grands Bois Cuvée Maximilien Cairanne 2010, France ($22) Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah taken from 12- to 50–year-old vines grown in the Rhône region. Boysenberry, cigar box and tobacco leaf, all dried but with great intensity.
Altocedro Reserva Malbec 2009, Argentina ($25)
Average age of the vine is 75 years. Strong vanilla and smokiness with quite a bit of spice and brambly black fruit.
Rodney Strong Knotty Vines Zinfandel 2009, California, United States ($23)
Not naughty as in bad, but knotty as in gnarly because of the more than 100 years these vines have been in the ground. Lovely flavours of plum, white cherry and pepper.
Seghesio Old Vine Zinfandel 2009, Unites States ($50)
Seghesio is one of the best producers of old-vine Zin; even their youngest vines are considered old. It’s the intensity of aroma and flavour that gives this wine its oomph-wow factor.
Laurent Gauthier Grand Cras Vieilles Vignes 2010, Morgon, France ($16) This Gamay from Beaujolais touts 65-year-old vines. If you like cherry in your Gamay then you’re gonna love this one — those years have concentrated the fruit, making its flavour pervasive.
Cline Cellars Ancient Vines Zinfandel 2010, United States ($20)
80- to 100-year-old Zinfandel vines make for a beauty of a wine. Great balance in spite of the 15% alcohol; good acidity and tannins, with big, robust fruit. Everything a Zin lover wants is here.
Charles Cimicky The Autograph Shiraz 2008, Australia ($35)
When these grapes were growing some four years ago, the vines were 36 years old. While not as old as some on this list, these older-vine Shiraz grapes really show elegance and finesse of fruit and spice where others might just come off as jammy.
schild’s Scott Hazeldine
Domaine Roche Cairanne 2010, Côtesdu-Rhône-Villages, France ($22)
This wine comes from 40- to 105-year-old vines, and no matter how you slice it, that’s pretty old. Prevalent in this wine is the raspberry, which seems to carry from nose (subtle) to palate (intense).
Valdivieso Single Vineyard Old Vines Malbec 2009, Chile ($20) Chile does not usually come to mind when you think of Malbec, but these vines have been kicking around there for quite some time. Minty, cedary, with balls-to-the-wall black fruit and coffee on the mid-palate. This wine has so much elegance and finesse, just as a Malbec should. Greg Morthole at Rodney strong
Pirramimma Old Bush Vine Grenache 2008, Australia ($25)
The fruit is sourced from two vineyards, one of 1944 origin and the other 1968. Intensity and complexity of flavour — coffee, mocha, dark berries, allspice and liquorice — is the hallmark of this wine.
Peique Tinto Mencía 2010, Spain ($15)
The vines are 45 years of age; the grape is Mencía — not a grape you typically hear about, but one you’ll love for its interesting spiciness and sweet berry flavour.
Schild Estate Old Bush Vine GMS 2010, Australia ($22)
A Grenache/Mourvedre/Shiraz blend made from vines more than 60 years old. With layers of flavour, it starts off slow then intensifies and ends with a smooth, supple finish.
Escondido Tempranillo 2009, Spain ($15) Made from vines over 50 years of age, this wine shows lots of mineral and blackberry on both the nose and the palate (more palate than nose).
Filón Garnacha 2010, Spain ($15)
Made from 30- to 40-year-old vines, this beautifully complex wine — with hints of ripe cherry, plum and sweet spice — is hidden behind a label that looks like 1970s bathroom wallpaper. •
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Saint-
Jo!
by evan saviolidis
24 // December 2012/January 2013
“… my brother gave him some of the famous Vin de Mauves to taste, which he does not drink himself, as it is very valuable …” Victor Hugo, Les Misérables (1862)
Vin de Mauves was the medieval name for the wines of Saint-Joseph, a clear indication of the history (and reverence) of this northern Rhône stalwart — even longer that its famed neighbour, Hermitage. The history of viticulture in Saint-Joseph started circa 600 BC, via the Greeks, and continued to expand under Roman tutelage. Being that the Rhône River was the primary communication/trade route between the Mediterranean, Northern Europe and the Atlantic, it was only natural for settlements to be established along its banks. Enamoured by the steep slopes, the Romans took to the hills, planting the vines and supporting them with retaining walls made of stone, known as challeys. This prosperity lasted until the collapse of the empire. It was at this point that Saint-Jo (the local nickname for wines coming from the appellation), as well wines coming from the rest of the Rhône, fell into a dark period. The rebirth started under Charlemagne in the late eighth century and continued under the Holy Roman Empire. By the late Middle Ages, the wine was cherished by the tsars and other European nobility, as well as being the wine of choice for the royal court of Louis XII, who owned a vineyard in the village. In 1650, the first decree guaranteeing the origin and quality of the wine was enacted, and by the end of the 17th century, the name Saint-Joseph first came into use. It was monks who named the vineyard after the patron saint of husbands. The modern era of Saint-Joseph commenced in the early 20th century, when a syndicate was formed to protect the wine’s authenticity. With this groundwork laid, the appellation and its 200 acres was officially bestowed AOC status on June 15, 1956. In 1971, it was decided that the appellation would be expanded.
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Olivier CIOSI & Xavier FROUIN from cave de tain
Today, it is a 50-kilometre-long strip, running north to south on the left bank of the Rhône. The majority of the 2,500 acres of vines are planted on steep south-southeastern granite slopes, which provide maximum sun exposure, retain and reflect heat back into the vineyards, offer excellent drainage, and protect against northern and western winds. All these factors assist in the ripening of the Syrah grape. The white varietals Marsanne and Rousanne are also planted and, by law, can be blended with Syrah, to a maximum of 10 per cent. This practice is generally eschewed, as most producers choose to make a small percentage of white wine instead. For every one bottle of white, 10 are produced in a darker shade. Of the two, Marsanne is the most cultivated, thanks to its ease of ripening. Rousanne is more of a precocious creature, but when done well, it produces elegant wines with wonderful aromatics. Another eccentricity is where the northern part of the region intersects with the southern portion of Condrieu: a white wine– only appellation. If Viognier is grown within the Saint-Jo appellation, it is labelled as Condrieu. Conversely, if Syrah is grown within the Condrieu boundaries, it is called Saint-Joseph. It is also interesting to note that with the region’s friendly climate, many producers have switched over to biodynamic practices. Clearly, the results demonstrate that they are on the right track. While visiting the region this past autumn, I had the chance to taste over 100 wines and got a pretty clear picture of what is happening, quality wise. It is said that the red wines of Saint-Jo are to be drunk while the wines of Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie mature. And until recently, I would have agreed with that statement, as many tended to be mid-weight at best. But as time passes, vines grow older and modern technology and techniques come into play. Today, the best reds are powerful medium- to full-bodied offerings with a profile of cassis, pepper, herbs, violets, smoke and enough tannin to allow them to carry on for 20 years. Of recent vintages, my nod goes to the spectacular 2009s, followed by the excellent 2010s. 2011 was a variable year. As for the whites, I was pleasantly surprised, as they were refreshing offerings, with honey, flowers, peach, apple, pear and hazelnut qualities. The few that were oaked had the vanilla and spice working in tandem with the fruit.
26 // December 2012/January 2013
looking for a bite
Brandade de Morue, a local specialty of puréed salt cod, potatoes, garlic and olive oil, was a sublime match with the whites. Other great pairings I feasted on in the Rhône were fish carpaccio, smoked salmon, fresh lobster, goat cheese and creambased vegetable soups. As for the reds, veal, rack of lamb, duck breast, steak tartare, beef stew and steak frites worked incredibly well, as the tannins of the Syrah did their job. The other upswing about the wines is price. A good bottle of red or white will only set you back $30. The premium cuvées will cost a little more. Compared to famed Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie, Saint-Jos are relative bargains.
Pierre Finon Le Caprice d’Héloïse 2009 ($15) This was my top red Saint-Joseph while tasting my way through the appellation. There is impressive concentration to this full-bodied Syrah. The cassis, blackberries, raspberries, herbs, spices and dark cocoa, which are present on the nose, also carry long on the finish. The tannins give it two decades of aging potential. Impressive juice indeed!
M. Chapoutier Les Granits Rouge 2009 ($50) From one of the most famous names in the Rhône comes this delicious offering. It is chock full of cassis, vanilla, nuts, rosemary, oregano, pepper and red fruits. There is great length, and the wine should easily last for a decade.
M. Chapoutier Les Granits Blanc 2009 ($70) This 100% Marsanne possesses a deep yellow colour and a huge bouquet of peach, apple, peachesand-cream corn, petrol, honey and flowers. There is a rich and creamy texture, with honey, spice, pineapple and peach carrying long into the sunset. This stunning white is a perfect foil for grilled salmon or chicken vol-au-vent.
Domaine de Coursodon L’Olivaie 2010 ($30) A bouquet of crème de cassis, raspberries, vanilla, mocha, nuts and pepper meets a lovely florality on the palate. There is excellent length and enough tannin to age a decade or more. This would be a sublime pairing with a duck breast topped with a dark berry sauce accented with star anise.
Cave de Tain Esprit de Granit 2010 ($35) Cave de Tain is the pre-eminent co-op of the Rhône Valley and one of the best in all of France. As proof, all you need to do is taste this wine. Intense crème de cassis, smoke, vanilla, tapenade and spice are in play. There is excellent length and a somewhat grippy finish, which rounds out the experience. It still needs another year in the bottle; then it can be drunk until 2020.
Delas Frères Cuvée François de Tournon 2010 ($28) Quality at Delas has increased considerably over the past decade. It is now one of my favourite Rhône producers. Plums, herbs, crème de cassis, white pepper, coffee and raspberries are all present in this youthful wine. Hold until 2014 and then drink until 2023.
Yves Cuilleron Saint-Pierre 2011 ($28) Michel CHAPOUTIER
In my mind, Cuilleron is one of the top 3 producers of white wines in the northern Rhône. This small production, 100% Rousanne, spent 9 months in the barrel. There is a medium yellow colour and an intense nose of pineapple, honey, nuts, vanilla, spice and white flowers. In the mouth it is concentrated, with a creamy texture and great persistency. Drink over the next 3 years.
Domaine Courbis Les Royes 2010 ($38) The 2010 Les Royes possesses a deep colour and flattering nose of mocha, cassis, violets and spice. With this mid-weight wine, the palate chimes in with rosemary and black pepper. The tannins suggest that the wine should be consumed over the next 7 years.
Domaine des Remizières 2010 ($90) This is a structured Saint-Jo, which will easily last for 15 years. Cocoa, roasted herbs, cassis, raspberry and flowers come together as one. The length is excellent, and seared grilled duck breast topped with a dark berry sauce would be a divine match.
Ferraton Père et Fils La Source 2010 ($25) The dark purple colour leads the way to a mixture of cherry jam, cassis, dark cocoa, pepper and anise. A mid-weight wine with depth and very good length. Drink now and over the next 6 years. •
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Body
and
von Winning Win Win Rotwein Cuvée Trocken 2009 ($19)
mind
Win Win indeed. This is a well-structured combination of Dornfelder (40%), Pinot Noir (35%), Cabernet Dorsa (15%) and Lemberger (10%). Cherry colour, aroma and flavours, mixed with blackberry and a hint of coffee bean. Unusual, well balanced, delicious and totally at home with a saddle of veal crowned with a Parmesan crust and surrounded by gnocchi in a rich brown sauce.
by brenda mcmillan
“Eating and drinking keep mind and body together.” Old German saying.
If you want to put on a few pounds in a short time, visit Germany. It’s not that the food is rich or heavy — quite the opposite — but it is so delicious and varied that you can’t stop eating. And it doesn’t help that German wines pair so well. After visiting the Rheingau, Pfalz and Baden regions, I came home thoroughly impressed, if a tad rotund. I never knew that 60 per cent of the world’s Riesling vineyards are in Germany or that the country is the third-largest producer of Pinot Noir after France and the United States. That wouldn’t be newsworthy if all the wines were like the off-dry, fruity, low-alcohol sippers (think Blue Nun) available here, but, fortunately for us, they are not. Germany produces a plethora of stellar, lip-smackingly dry Riesling — seriously great stuff from robust vines grown on mineral-rich, sunny hillsides — and a Pinot trio. Pinot Noir is coddled and cajoled into mouth-watering companionship with meats and cheeses, while Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc are coaxed to crisp greatness. These are world-class, single-varietal dry wines with charisma and style. The wines take their personality from their vineyards, but also from passionate winemakers and owners who believe in bottling the best. Many wineries are organic, use biodynamic practices or just interfere as little as possible to allow natural yeasts and gravity to play their parts. They are the future of German wines, which explains why it was so easy to keep body and mind together on my visit.
28 // December 2012/January 2013
Burg Ravensburg Husarenkappe Riesling 2011 ($28)
Husarenkappe (the grand cru vineyard and the wine from it) pays homage to a famous hussar major who brought Riesling seeds to the area in his cap in the early 1800s. Despite its reference to a male soldier, this wine is all lady. Beguiling with a soft, spicy, floral perfume, she delivers mineral flavours (vines grow in gypsum limestone) accented with mango and pineapple. A touch of salt with spicy herbs play on the long finish. Dry, well structured and absolutely delicious now, she will be all the better with a few years of experience (aren’t we all?). Organic.
A. Christmann Idig Riesling 2008 ($47)
Steffen Christmann, passionate president of the prestigious VDP (Die Prädikatsweingüter — a group of producers dedicated to producing wine of the highest quality from the best vineyards), says that Rieslings need varying times to age as they go through a period of intense acidity before the ripeness of the fruit kicks in. We tried his 2008 Riesling. It has mellowed to soft, round quaffability. Scrumptious. Everything works together perfectly in this food-embracing wine.
A. Christmann Gimmeldingen Riesling 2011 ($24)
From his premier cru vineyard. Seductively rich, the aroma of this wine makes my mouth water. I want to dive into the glass. This all-mineral delight is so soft that it wraps around food like a silken shawl. Balanced. Lovely.
Michael Fröhlich Lump Riesling 2011 ($24)
Soft candied pineapple nose. Delicious crisp wine with a looong finish. As strongly expressive as Donald Trump, this wine needs a flavourful tamer on the plate to take on the acidity and win. Bring on Singaporean or Thai food and watch this guy strut his stuff.
Wittmann Kirchspiel Riesling 2011 ($42)
Outgoing, flavourful and friendly, but with an acerbic wit. Needs an appreciative audience, like chicken in a cream sauce or homemade mac and cheese. Drink with comfort food. Often.
Georg Mosbacher Pechstein Riesling 2011 ($36)
Sandy soils from the northern part of the Pfalz region produce wines with more fruit than mineral flavours. This one is indicative as pineapple, guava and white bread aromas lead to big fruit flavours, lots of well-integrated acidity and a long finish. Really good. Take this one home to meet mother. Pad Thai would be so happy next to this.
Dr Deinhard Grauer Burgunder Trocken 2011 ($9)
Grauer Bergunder is Pinot Gris. This wine was served to me with a raw marinated beef filet with horseradish crème fraîche and salad dressed with the same sauce. I swooned over the dish and gulped the wine with it. A wonderful combination of acidity, minerals and soft fruit was just what the beef needed.
Fritz Haag Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling 2011 ($33)
Biscuits, lemon and pineapple nose lead to huge mingled flavours of stones and stone fruit. Grill spicy shrimp and nectarines and taste the magic this Mae West of wines brings to the dish. She will shine alongside foods with personality.
Dr Bürklin-Wolf Wachenheimer Altenburg Riesling 2011 ($24)
The limestone vineyard in the lee of an altenburg (old castle) gives the wine a creamy pineapple-peach-spicy minerality and a delightful crispness. A perfect match for the salad of wild herbs and foraged mushrooms with apple-ginger chutney.
Meyer-Näkel Blue Slate Spätburgunder 2011 ($25)
A delicious and elegant Pinot Noir from 20-year old vines. From a touch of smoke on the nose it moves to friendly fruit, fading tannins and woody overtones from spending 11 months in used French oak barrels. Mineral flavours from the vineyard are overshadowed at this point but may emerge later. the wittmann family
Gies-Düppel Pinot Blanc Sekt 2009 ($16)
Sekt, German sparkling wine, is extremely popular with Germans. This slightly off-dry Pinot Blanc is made in the traditional method at a family winery that now has Volker Gies, the youngest generation of winemakers, at the helm. Elegant with fruit and nut aromatics, it is crisp with fine bubbles and flavours. Clean and fun to drink, you’ll want a second glass with appetizers.
oliver and wilhelm haag
Klumpp Alte Reben Riesling 2011 ($23)
Made by a husband-and-wife winemaking team, this romantic offering is a favourite for weddings in Germany as the wine is called Hand-in-Hand. An aroma of biscuits and ripe pineapple slide into more fruit flavours. Oak from barrel aging is present to add a complexity to the wine, but does not impose. Dry with a happy freshness. Serve with love.
Dr Bürklin-Wolf Forster Ungeheuer Magnum Riesling 2005 ($38) Riesling ages very well, and this is an example of a perfect-now wine. Round, smooth, complex and very tasty, it is honey without the sweetness. Petrol, fruit and honey aromas are the preamble to an elegant charmer with a long finish. Fruit, minerality and acidity have mellowed and matured. Serve with a free-range organic chicken braised with citrus and thyme.
Kranz Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé Brut 2010 ($18)
Only 2000 bottles are made each year by young winemaker Boris Kranz. A pretty pale pink, this fresh sekt has a captivating aroma, fine bubbles and soft flavours that deserve to be invited to brunch.
Heymann-Löwenstein Schieferterrassen Riesling 2009 ($40)
This wet-straw-coloured wine from slate terraces has grapefruit/ peach/mineral nose and mineral flavours with a touch of white peach. The slight sweetness, combined with its delicious acidity, makes it an extremely good match for sashimi with a daub of salty-sweet sauce, spicy squid salad and crunchy shrimp in panko.
Gut Hermannsberg Steinterrassen Riesling 2009 ($20)
Stone fruit and stones are the flavours and aromas of this wine, which makes sense as it hails from a stony terraced vineyard. Its flavours and great acidity make it a dance partner to pepper-crusted black cod with miso, spinach and shiitake mushrooms. •
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winning
Terravista Fandango 2011 ($25)
it
by tim pawsey
The Lieutenant Governor’s Awards for Excellence in British Columbia Wines (which inspired their Ontario counterpart) is one of the toughest competitions on the Canadian circuit. Each year only 10 or so wines from a field of almost 400 entries are singled out for recognition — judged blind over three days at Victoria’s Government House. One of the standouts this year was a southern Rhône–inspired 2011 Jackpot white from Oliver’s Road 13. While BC’s modern industry was revived (particularly in whites) on single-varietal wines, more recently winemakers have been exploring with blends and choosing increasingly to work with varietals that, while not so common in Canada, are indeed well proven elsewhere. Trailblazers (aside from Road 13) include Inniskillin Okanagan’s Sandor Mayer (whose Discovery Series celebrates Marsanne-Roussanne, Tempranillo and Pinotage) and Joie Farm’s Heidi Noble and Michael Dinn, who from the start have made wines “inspired by Alsace.” Bob and Senka Tennant (who sold their iconic Black Hills Estate in 2007) look set to repeat the success of Nota Bene and Alibi with recently launched Terravista Vineyards and winery. The couple have planted Albariño and Verdejo on a rocky southwest-facing slope on the Naramata Bench specifically chosen to pursue their passion for these two varieties, whose roots on the Iberian peninsula can be traced back several centuries. Their approach, well beyond single-varietal wines, is very much indicative of a whole new wave of BC white blends.
30 // December 2012/January 2013
This Albariño-Verdejo blend sports a lively floral and citrus nose, followed by a zesty and apple-toned palate wrapped in juicy acidity that cries out for cold cuts, grilled chicken or firm cheeses.
Terravista Figaro 2011 ($23)
A balanced blend of Roussanne and Viognier yields stone fruits on the nose in a generously textured, mouth-filling, lengthy pear-toned drop.
Road 13 Jackpot White 2011 ($29)
This well-crafted wine made by Jean Martin (JM) Bouchard blends Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne (with most of the fruit grown in the neighbouring Similkameen Valley) for a luscious, layered, honey- and stone fruit–toned drop.
Young and Wyse Amber 2011 ($20)
After a decade at his family’s Burrowing Owl winery, Stephen Wyse and partner Michelle Young have decided to go it alone, already with some good results. This blend of Viognier (43%), Pinot Gris (37%) and Gewürz (20%) seduces with stone fruit and apricot aromas before a lively palate of citrus and orange notes with hints of mineral balanced by bright acidity.
Heidi Noble and Michael Dinn
Black Hills Alibi 2010 ($25)
Every time we taste this Sauv Blanc/Sémillon blend it gets better. Look for up-front citrus and honey aromas, followed by zesty lemon lime on the quite broad palate, with some mineral hints before a lengthy close. Think scallops in lemon butter sauce.
photo: tim pawsey
Laughing Stock Blind Trust White 2011 ($25)
The winemaker’s background in the world of finance makes for a clever play on words, while the Pinot Gris (43%), Pinot Blanc (29%) and Viognier (28%) blend is visible only once the capsule is removed. Lots of clean, green apple and citrus play with honey and a touch of minerality.
Fort Berens 23 Camels 2011 ($15)
The initial releases from Lillooet’s first winery bode well for this fledgling region, 250 kilometres northeast of Vancouver. This wine celebrates the (failed) effort to introduce camels as pack animals during the Gold Rush. Pinot Gris plus Chardonnay and Riesling combine 40% estate with Okanagan fruit for a well-balanced sipper: lively stone fruit and juicy acidity.
Clos du Soleil Capella 2011 ($25)
This Sauvignon Blanc (90%), Sémillon (10%) blend from Similkameen’s upper bench sports some grassy notes with citrus and gooseberry on the nose, followed by a broadly textured citrus and stone fruit palate from sur-lie aging, with moderate acidity and a lengthy close.
AGENCE DE VOYAGES W. H. HENRY INC.
TRAVEL AGENTS
Intrigue 11 2011 ($15)
A well-made, value-priced, apple-toned and juicy-tasting combo of Riesling, Gewürz and Muscatel from talented Gray Monk assistant winemaker (and long-time Riesling specialist) Roger Wong, who now has his own winery and tasting room.
Bartier Scholefield BS White Table Wine 2011 ($19)
Okanagan Crush Pad winemaker Michael Bartier and consultant (and former BCLS head buyer) David Scholefield are behind this smart blend of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Floral on top with a broad leesy palate, juicy acidity and bright apple and pear notes. Concrete “egg” fermented.
Joie Farm A Noble Blend 2011 ($24)
Joie’s flagship is a blend of Riesling (38%) and Gewürtraminer (33%) with Pinot Blanc (14%), Pinot Auxerrois (11%) and Schönberger (4%), mainly from the central Okanagan. A seductively Rubenesque drop on both the nose and palate, fresh floral notes and sweet, followed by distinctive lime citrus and tropical flavours wrapped in juicy acidity and complexity with a lingering end. •
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3/20/12 9:36:25 PM
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heat
seeking
By December, the thirst-quenching quaffs of summer are long forgotten. Dark, dreary days and frosty nights dictate a different approach to imbibing, with deeper shades of spirits spreading warmth and well being from within. Hot mixes knock the chill out of winter-weary bodies and create quick comfort. Four Canadian bartenders weigh in on winter warm-ups you’ll want to try at home or at an establishment in your area.
the four horsemen
Jay Jones
4 dashes The Bitter Truth, Jerry Thomas’ Own Decanter Bitters Combine all ingredients with ice in a mixing glass. Stir gently for 15 to 20 seconds. Fine strain into a coupe and serve neat.
Vancouver
Jay Jones describes his mixing style as “ingenuity based on classic designs” and enjoys “introducing his own ingredients and conceptual flavours.” He matches the mood of guests using intuition and alters his approach according to the season. “In the winter, you tend toward things that are a little deeper in nature. Spice inevitably pops up. Winter cocktails are often more dictated by sugar because the palate is ready for a bit more sweetness,” he advises. Rather than creating hot drinks, Jones generates warmth and resonance from the inside out. As he says, “Who hasn’t been warmed by a whisky as it works its way into you?” Jones will create new cocktails this winter using different spirit bases. With recent awards including 2011 and 2012 PourMaster Vancouver, GQ magazine’s 2012 Most Imaginative Bartender in Vancouver and enRoute magazine’s 2012 Canadian Bartender of the Year, there’s little doubt these libations will make a big splash.
32 // December 2012/January 2013
This is the ultimate “end of day, warm you from the inside
out” drink and pairs well with rich cheeses after dinner,
adding a bit of decadence to complement the saltiness.
1/2 oz Maker’s 46 Kentucky straight bourbon 3/4 oz Averna Amaro Siciliano 1/2 oz Giffard Abricot du Roussillon 1
immaculate conception This sweet cocktail is named for Mount Gay Rum, the oldest Rum brand in existence (established in 1703). Barbados is quoted as “the birthplace of rum.” Rich appetizers such as foie gras with brioche match the richness of the drink, while an accent of cherry gratin adds sourness to go along with the sweet and softly bitter flavours of the cocktail. 1 oz Mount Gay Extra Old Barbados Rum 1/2 oz Cynar 1/4 oz Giffard Vanille de Madagascar 1/4 oz Giffard Banane du Brésil Combine all liquid ingredients with ice in a mixing glass. Stir gently for 15 to 20 seconds. Fine strain into a rocks glass. Fill the glass with large ice cubes. Garnish with fresh lemon peel.
ng
Dave Mitton Toronto
David Mitton, owner/bartender at the Harbord Room in Toronto, will play with more scotch and cognac cocktails and Canadian whiskies this winter. “Everyone has been going bourbon and rye cocktail crazy. We’re in Canada and we’ve got lots of Canadian whiskies here,” said Mitton. He notes that “booze-forward cocktails will continue to be a trend.” The signature cocktail at the Harbord Room is the Ronald Clayton, an all-alcohol concoction created in memory of his grandfather, a dairy farmer in small-town New Brunswick. Mitton’s grandfather, who drank Crown Royal and smoked a pipe, treated his grandchildren to homemade vanilla ice cream drizzled with maple syrup. The Ronald Clayton, a take on an Old Fashioned, infuses Crown Royal with vanilla bean, tobacco syrup and organic maple bitters. The tobacco syrup is made by boiling down alcohol and pipe tobacco. For a less booze-forward drink, the Spiced Pear is a take on a sour, a cocktail with egg whites, citrus and bourbon, and is made with Canadian whisky, pear juice, spiced syrup and egg white. The egg white emulsifies and expands to give the drink a nice creamy texture. On the role of cocktails, Mitton says, “God created wine for a reason — to have with your meal. I think that cocktails are great for before dinner or after dinner. Cocktails are for helping you to open your palate and help with digestion.”
by merle rosenstein
the ronald clayton Vanilla-infused Crown Royal Canadian Whisky with organic maple bitters. It has a solid, manly look but is hardly harsh. Instead, the taste is sweet and smoky, a result of adding tobacco syrup to the drink. 2 oz vanilla-infused Crown Royal 1/2 oz tobacco syrup 1 dash organic maple bitters Stir all the ingredients over ice and fine strain into and Old Fashioned glass. Serve with one large ice cube.
spiced pear Wiser’s Legacy Whisky has aromas of rich oak with warm notes of apple and cinnamon. This full-bodied, silky-smooth Canadian whisky has slight notes of juniper and coriander, which gives it an almost gin-like edge. There is sweetness with a hint of tart green apple, fresh-cracked black pepper and some bold oak with an ever-so-subtle spicy wine quality to it. 1 1/2 oz Wiser’s Legacy Whisky 1 1/2 oz fresh pear juice 3/4 oz spiced syrup 1 dash walnut bitters 1 egg white Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker, dry shake for about 1 minute so that the egg white emulsifies. Then add ice to shaker and shake until well blended and fine strain into an Old Fashioned glass. Garnish with freshly grated nutmeg.
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Fabien Maillard Montreal
wild berries at the bottom. Cover the glass with a snifter glass to capture the skim of the cocktail.
Bartender Fabien Maillard entertains patrons of Le Lab by juggling flaming bottles of booze high in the air. His use of flame will also extend to cocktails he’ll create this winter. “What’s popular here in winter is a warm cocktail called the Blue Blazer invented by Jerry Thomas in the 19th century. You use fire to make it,” he said. Maillard will also be serving grog, made with hot rum, hot water and spice; hot wine cocktails; and cocktails made with tea and spirits.
flaming berry 1 1
tsp sugar dash Fee Brothers Cherry Bitters 1/2 oz Chambord Black Raspberry Liqueur 1 1/2 oz Havana Club 7 Year Old Rum 3 wild berries Pour all ingredients into 2 blazer cups. Light cups on fire and pour the mix from 1 blazer cup to the other. Repeat several times and pour drink into an Old Fashioned glass with the
CELLARS OF Guaranteed
34 // December 2012/January 2013
Dominic Primard Quebec City
Quebec mixologist Dominic Primard, winner of the 2012 Quebec City Made with Love cocktail competition prefers simple cocktails produced without “having to be a chemist.” Primard picks up the makings of his mixes from the local grocery store and builds bitters at home. This winter, he will experiment with coffees from different countries like Jamaica and Brazil and get back to basics with a sweet twist on the Manhattan.
sweet manhattan 2 1 2
oz of your favourite bourbon or rye whisky oz sweet vermouth dashes Angostura bitter 1/2 oz maraschino cherry juice Put all ingredients in a mixing glass, stir for about 15 seconds and double strain in a chilled martini glass. •
THE WORLD
Gifts That Keep Them Sipping by Rick VanSickle
He couldn’t have been more than eight years old. Wide-eyed, gaptoothed and giddy with anticipation, the kid gingerly descended the stairs to a basement bathed in a festive glow from the twinkling lights of the Christmas tree.
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His mom and dad were waiting as the kid entered the room with a mix of caution and excitement. Suddenly, the lights switched on and what did appear but an electric train set speeding magically along a track that had been set up by Santa Claus himself. That kid was me, all of eight years old, and, to this day, the thrill of Christmas morning has never diminished. Nowadays, instead of trains and table hockey games and stockings full of all things sweet, it’s the not-so-cleverly disg uised wine bags and boxes that send my adrenalin soaring as the holidays approach. Oh, I know, it’s all about the kids now and their excitement, but, damn it, not knowing what’s in those decorative bags and boxes drives me bonkers. Adults can dream, too, right?
I like to be creative in my choices and scour the magazines and shelves for treasures that are unique and sure to please. 36 // December 2012/January 2013
I am blessed with a thoughtful wife and children who have received the message loud and clear. Not socks, ties or cheap cologne. Spare me the golf shirt, slippers and gourmet popcorn. It is wine that fuels my seasonal joy, a mystery bottle or two of something different, something exciting, no matter the price or pedigree. Surprises are encouraged (but acting on those subtle hints left around the house is pretty sweet, as well). When we lived in Calgary, my wife would simply go to my favourite private wine store, Willow Park Wines and Spirits, and seek out Gerry Buchner and ask him what bottles make me weak in the knees. Gerry knew my tastes and always had something delicious and surprising to recommend. And now my kids, 15-year-old twins, have learned to peruse wine websites for top-scoring vino and cross-reference what’s good with what’s available at the LCBO or Vintages close to where we now live. They tell my wife and she makes the seasonal purchase for them. Kistler Chardonnay, Cloudy Bay Sauvignon, Jim Barry Lodge Hill Riesling, gems from Alsace, Napa Valley, Bordeaux and Burgundy in all the right vintages … they have all ended their journey under the Christmas tree for grateful little me. But I know shopping for the perfect bottle can be a daunting task for even the wine savviest of shoppers. You want to blow their minds. You want the boom!-pow!wow! factor under that tree. And it has to fit into your budget.
Life would be so much so simpler if we could simply walk into a wine shop and purchase First Growth Bordeaux (2009, please) or grand cru Burgundy (2010, if you’re asking) or top Supertuscans and cult Napa Valley Cabernet. But where’s the fun in that? So let’s break it down as we get ready to shop till we drop this holiday season.
be smarter than everyone else
In fact, I hope it’s not too late already. Have you ever been to a wine store in late December? It looks as if a nuclear bomb has exploded and left only the crap wine on the lower shelves, the cheap stuff, the really bad stuff. Let’s face it. December is the month of giving, and for a lot of people the giving starts with good booze. So shop early and pay attention. If you live in the coddled provinces of Ontario or Quebec, where there is but one wine store, the LCBO or SAQ, you are racing against millions of thirsty savvy wine shoppers all eyeing the same wines. So get ahead of the fray and get in the know. Vintages has a twice-monthly publication that brims with useful information on Christmas buys. The November 24 issue is the main “icon” wine publication for Christmas featuring the finest wines in the world including a good selection of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti wines. The last Classics Collection Catalogue printed edition (now going online only) came out on October 16 and also includes superb classic wines
for the locavore
that can be ordered and picked up before Christmas. The SAQ has its own publication called Cellier that’s heavy on European Old World treasures. If you live in any of the Canadian provinces with private stores (lucky you!), your choices of unique and fine wine increases exponentially. You get to actually physically shop for vino that’s hand-picked by the proprietor. Get to know your purveyor of wine, take in the tastings, get on the mailing list and buy what you think will wow who you are buying for. I have some cool yule suggestions for you (children, are you paying attention?). I like to be creative in my choices and scour the magazines and shelves for treasures that are unique and sure to please. I look for that wow factor with a dash of intrigue thrown in. The Ravenswood Icon Native Sonoma Mixed Blacks 2008, Sonoma ($75) fits the bill of exactly what I look for in a Christmas wine. It’s different (a crazy blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Carignane and Alicante Bouschet from pre-Prohibition vines); it’s stunning on the palate with thick, concentrated fruits and layered spices; and it will age beautifully. The Ruffino Serelle Vin Santo del Chianti 2008, Tuscany ($25/375 mL) also caught my eye. This is another wine that will have your recipient in awe of your wine-buying prowess. Vin Santo is a sweet Italian specialty where the grape bunches are slowly dried in the vinsantaia, a cellar characterized by its constant natural ventilation. The result is a gorgeous dessert wine with deep amber hues and complex f lavours of candied
While it’s true that good Canadian wine is made by the boatload these days (you can’t go wrong with Riesling, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc from Ontario; big red blends, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Syrah from the Okanagan Valley; or even Quebec apple cider and L’Acadie Blanc and sparkling from Nova Scotia) but this is Christmas, and that calls for some extra special attention to some extra special wines. Here are a few standouts that I’d love to see under my tree: Foreign Affair Unreasonable 2008, Ontario ($163)
This appassimento-style red from Niagara’s Foreign Affair is the bomb. Big, bold, brash and as unique a wine as you’ll find in Canada. The grapes have been dried for 163 days, hence, a dollar for each day aged (and the most expensive table wine in Ontario). If you’re splurging, go no further than right here.
Tinhorn Creek Vineyards Kerner Icewine 2011, BC ($30)
This has all the right wow factors for Christmas gift giving: different, delicious and sweet with honey, citrus and peach flavours that build on the palate.
Orofino Beleza 2009, BC ($34)
There are so many great wines in BC, but this one caught my full attention during a recent visit. It’s in the booming Similkameen Valley (a short drive from the Okanagan) and built just like a fine Bordeaux with power, structure and layers of pleasure. A real treat if you can get your hands on it.
Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Pinot Noir 2009, Niagara ($70)
One of the benchmark Pinots in Canada from one of the best vintages. Gorgeous plum and black cherries and toasted vanilla with aging potential of 10 years or more. Throw in a nice wooden box for $16, and Santa may never leave your house.
Jackson-Triggs Entourage Sparkling Merlot, Ontario ($30)
A fabulously delicious (in a manly way) bubbly with raspberry, wild field berries, kirsch and plums with toast and spice to boot. Made exclusively for that favourite man in the house who needs a little sweetness in his life.
Inniskillin Sparkling Icewine 2011, Niagara ($70)
Benjamin Bridge Nova 7 2011, Nova Scotia ($26)
Nova Scotia’s This comes in a gorgeous Benjamin Bridge is decorative gold tube but turning heads for its it is the golden nectar that all-sparkling wine awaits in the bottle that program. The Nova will thrill your recipient. 7 hits all the right Think honey, peaches, notes in a slightly sparkles and apricot fruit off-dry style. all delivered flawlessly in a racy, tongue-tingling explosion on the palate.
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tropical fruits, mango, marzipan, figs, citrus peel, honeycomb and sweet spices. Looking for something a little more, shall we say, affordable? It has to be different and punch well above its weight class to be a true Christmas wow-wine. I’d suggest Bodegas Castaño Hécula Old Vines Monastrell 2009, Yecla ($12). This is a hidden gem from Spain with a bold nose of raspberry, violets, light spices and a touch of blueberry. It’s rich and complex on the palate with bountiful fruit and subtle spices. And there’s nothing wrong with wrapping up wines with famous names under the Christmas tree. Try the Chateau St Jean Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Sonoma ($20) or the iconic symbol of Napa Valley, the Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 ($35). Both are excellent choices.
think outside the box
The competition for Christmas wines is fierce. Chances are the hot wines that are being released will disappear from store shelves as soon as they get there. Pro tip: Regular shoppers will ask their favourite liquor store consultant to put aside the bottles they want, and their wish is usually granted. So if you leave your shopping to hope and chance, you will be disappointed.
And don’t limit yourself to what you can find on store shelves. There’s an entire industry built on “consignment” wines from the hundreds of wine agencies spread across the country. By only buying wine at the retail store level, shoppers are missing out on thousands of the premium wines not available to the general public. Artisanal, small-production wines are often only available by buying directly from a wine importer (or agency). You are advised to get on the mailing list of the agencies that specialize in what’s for sale exclusively from interesting wineries. The wine can be ordered online and shipped to your door. The only drawback is that you will likely have to purchase six or 12 bottles, and you may have to wait a while for your order to arrive. I found some wonderful Christmas wines at one of the newest agencies to start up in Ontario, Noteworthy Wines (@noteworthywines on Twitter), based in London. Co-owner Bill Wittur has done a fine job of building a small but exciting portfolio of unique wines. I loved both the Zantho Grüner Veltliner 2011, Burgenland, Austria ($15), with lime-citrus, apple and slate minerality, and the Zantho St Laurent 2010 ($15) with blueberry, black cherry, raspberry jam and currant flavours.
38 // December 2012/January 2013
Pro tip: Regular shoppers will ask their favourite liquor store consultant to put aside the bottles they want, and their wish is usually granted. So if you leave your shopping to hope and chance, you will be disappointed. Noteworthy has done well finding good wine at affordable prices that you won’t find anywhere else. Even the Tenuta Le Velette Rasenna Orvieto 2011, Umbria, Italy ($13) was a lovely surprise with green apples, melon and citrus. It’s a great choice for the wine lover on your Christmas list who is looking for a unique bottle of wine at a fair price. Christmas is about the warmth of the season, sharing with family and friends. It is made with memories and anticipation, laughter, too much food and everything sweet. The wine that accompanies all of that, whether you are giving it, receiving it or just sharing it by a crackling fire, should never be a chore. Buy what you like, buy what you think they like, sit back and enjoy. And one more thing: Happy holidays to all! •
Barley
wine from the barrel to the bottle this enticing brewing style is making waves by merle rosenstein
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Expertly bound in an oiled cloth for at least a year, sheep cheddar packs a piquant punch and delivers a full-flavoured bite. Prosciutto di Parma care-
fully cured for up to 18 months makes a sweet and delicately salty appetizer. A vigorous Syrah peaks at about 10 to 15 months after release, displaying exotic flavours such as leather and truffle. Careful aging enhances the taste of favoured foods and adds value to ordinary offerings. Aging beer in oak creates a new layer of complexity, capitalizing on the aromas of spirits or wines previously inhabiting a barrel. However, not all beers are meant to mature, especially hop-forward varieties. Beers such as barleywines, stouts, bocks and sour Belgians, those with strong malt characters that will not be overpowered by the oak, are recommended for barrel aging.
a marriage of malts
Central City Brewing Company from Surrey, BC, took the Canadian Brewery of the Year award for the second time last June. Brew master Gary Lohin and Central City Brewing president Darryll Frost also received three gold medals, including one for Thor’s Hammer Bourbon Barrel Aged Barley Wine. Lohin has been brewing Thor’s Hammer since 1998 and knows what it takes to make a great beer. As he said, “At Central City we are a little anal about what we do. We don’t cut corners on any process. We are not shy about spending money on ingredients to make the best beer.” Lohin described Thor’s Hammer as a niche beer, created by a brewery to demonstrate excellence, but not a production beer. As he said, “You have to produce this with your pale ales and lagers. We are trying to push a higher-end craft almost treating beer like wine.” The winning beer was brewed in February 2011 using eight or nine different coloured barley malts and a bit of molasses and two 500-litre bourbon barrels. By law, bourbon must be aged in new barrels to allow for the infusion of vanilla and caramel characters. According to Lohin, this requirement means that used bourbon barrels come cheap. He adds twice the amount of barley used in regular beers to boost the level of fermentation and the alcohol content to 11 per cent. The brew spent eight months in stainless steel fermenters and another 10 months in bourbon barrels to allow the aromas to comingle. A sampling after six or seven months helped Lohin control the amount of barrel tannin. “That’s where the artisan part comes in. It’s almost like blending and tasting, and you have to know when your product is ready or you risk overcooking, like with eggs,” explained Lohin. He used another food analogy to describe the blending process. “When you put chilli away for five days and you take it out and reheat it again it tastes much better. It takes the flavours all that time to marry during the maturation process. When we release the beer, you’re getting a beer very close to how it’s supposed to be drunk.” Lohin remarked proudly on the age of the beer, “It’s very hard to find a beer that is over a year old on any shelf anywhere.”
40 // December 2012/January 2013
“We are trying er-end craft al beer like wine.”
says Brew master Gary Lohin, C
Lohin characterized Thor’s Hammer Bourbon Barrel Aged Barley Wine as “your stereotypical after dinner or in front of a fire reading a book drink.” The full-bodied, fruity complex beer has hints of dried fruit including prunes, as well as plums and walnuts, and is perfect for fall or winter as a dessert beer along with cheesecakes, pastries and candied fruits. Lohin suggested placing the beer into a snifter or goblet, leaving it in the fridge for about 20 minutes and serving it almost like a port — not cold or warm but somewhere in between.
heady stuff
When BC brewer Jack Bensley couldn’t find wheat wine ale in Canada, he crafted a hopped-up wheat-style barleywine aged in 10 Jack Daniel’s barrels using strisselspalt hops from France’s Alsace Region. “We decided to go crazy and not only brew a style of beer we never brewed before but use hops we’d never used before in our first barrel-aged beer,” remarked Bensley. He explained that “wheat wine is a North American creation that can be either hop or malt forward. Ours is 10 per cent ABV (alcohol by volume) but is very hoppy and quite bitter at 70 BU (international bittering units). It’s very different than an English-style barleywine.”
deceptively smooth
to push a highlmost treating ”
Central City Brewing
Sales of the beer were brisk. “All of the beer was pre-sold to liquor stores and restaurants. It was gone from the brewery the day it was released. Stores were fighting for cases,” said Bensley. The hoppy Nectar of the Gods Wheat Wine Ale by Russell Brewing won a silver medal at the 2012 Canadian Brewing Awards in the Wood and Barrel Aged Strong Beer category. Bensley talked about the challenges of brewing Nectar of the Gods. “Our brew house is not really designed for doing big beers. It was a bit of an adventure in that we had to do two mashes to get nearly a full brew kettle of the alcohol we wanted.” The brew is made with 50 per cent Canadian wheat malt, plus pilsner and Munich malts with a big addition of hops for flavouring. It is then finished in the brew kettle. After fermentation in standard tanks, the ale is aged for seven or eight months in barrels and is bottle conditioned for two months to create carbonation and a fine mousse head. The Jack Daniel’s barrels lend a bourbon and woody-vanilla flavour to the ale, and the strisselspalt hops account for the black current aroma. With 50 per cent wheat malt, the beer can be served all year round and is best paired with strong cheeses. This hopped-up version of barleywine is relatively light despite having 10 per cent alcohol and can be enjoyed after dinner. According to Bensley, “It’s strong. You certainly want to be careful with a 10 per cent beer.”
Sixty freshly emptied Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Jack Daniel’s barrels stacked neatly against a wall at Amsterdam Brewery make up an ambitious barrel-aging program. As part of the program, last March head brewer Iain McOustra and Eric Ecclestone of the Biergotter Homebrew Club collaborated on a singlebarrel release that sold out in six hours. The new brew, Sleeping Giant Barley Wine, spent three and a half months in dripping-wet 220-litre Jack Daniel’s barrels from the distillery in Lynchburg, Tennessee. According to McOustra, the name Sleeping Giant fits the description of this “large beer (10.7 per cent ABV) that is deceptively smooth and sneaks up on you quickly and puts you to sleep fast.” He also explained that Sleeping Giant is the name of his and Ecclestone’s favourite track from an album by Mastodon. McOustra mentioned that he builds beer recipes with specific barrels in mind. For example, he has experimented with adding golden ale to Pinot Noir barrels to impart a tannic edge to the brew. “The barrel should complement the beer. It’s important to be aware of what a barrel will do for the beer,” he said. According to McOustra, the barrel shouldn’t overpower a beer but should “complement the flavours of the original beer while adding depth and complexity. He is pleased to have so many high-quality barrels available to his brewery. “The freshness and quality do translate to the finished beer,” he said. Sleeping Giant is an English barleywine unlike the hopforward US version. The beer is made with English ingredients including a huge amount of barley malt and brown sugar with very light hopping. The brown sugar is boiled down for one and a half hours to add a deep base note and is added during the boil to bump up the alcohol content. After fermentation in steel vessels, the barleywine displays lots of fruit notes from the malt and maple sweetness from the brown sugar. The Jack Daniel’s barrels add oak and whiskey characters and a hint of toasted coconut, a twist on the British style of beer. The result is a caramel-coloured, very smooth, light, big beer with a thin head and a creamy smooth mouthfeel. Sleeping Giant is a special occasion beer for sharing with friends after dinner. McOustra will be brewing Sleeping Giant again this fall and aging it in Pinot Noir, bourbon and whiskey barrels to experiment with different flavour profiles. •
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win wander Ready or not, here it is — winter. Personally, I’d rather find myself sinking ankle deep into the hot sand of some tropical beach than risk losing a finger or toe to frostbite. Sadly, I’m not basking in paradise. I’m here bundling up against the cold weather under layers of blankets. Well-meaning friends have tried to convince me that the best way to endure winter is to embrace it. I’ll take it under advisement, I tell them. So, last year I decided to be a wimp no more. I strapped on my brand-new padded skates, and off I went to while away the hours until rising temperatures turned the outdoor rink into a puddle. It was fun, I admit. Given my druthers, I’d rather not have to negotiate safe passage through the snow and ice accumulating outside my door every day. I’d rather take a quick plane, train or car ride to some place close by that will encourage me to ward off the chill with fun and food. I like to consider it a little gift to myself that never fails to re-energize. The best part is that I don’t have to look far across this expansive land of ours to find the perfect winter getaway. Here’s what’s on my wish list of great wintertime destinations.
culinary adventures
Cooking or wine appreciation classes make me forget that the snow continues to fall outside. Finding one nearby is easy. Google will unearth a plethora of local restaurants and culinary academies willing to instruct on everything from cocktail mixing to cookie making. But say you’re craving a little heat. Then there’s nothing better than a dose of the warm desert — the Canadian desert, that is. British Columbia’s South Okanagan just happens to be located at the northernmost tip of the Sonoran Desert.
42 // December 2012/January 2013
That’s the same one that runs all the way down to Mexico’s Baja peninsula. Take my advice and visit now. Going there during the winter means that you can take a walk without fear of treading on tourists or western rattlesnakes. Rife with vineyards, wineries and restaurants (like Nk’Mip Cellars and Restaurant at Spirit Ridge), the South Okanagan will melt the ice that’s starting to bond your eyelashes. On the other hand, winters in the Atlantic provinces can test the resolve of even those who long for cold weather year round. But if snow is your thing, then do like the locals and go play. Try some ice fishing or catch a glimpse of a pod of blue whales swimming alongside the coast. Later, when you’re truly in need of something hot and tasty, I suggest you go Acadian. Fill up on classics like poutine râpée (potato dumpling with pork filling), lobster rolls and crunchy dulse (seaweed). While you’re in the neighbourhood, pay tribute to the Maritimes’ own L’Acadie Blanc. Developed in Nova Scotia, this award-winning wine is made from the popular white grape at L’Acadie Vineyards. Stepping outside just now, I couldn’t help notice that the temperature has most definitely plummeted. I think Nature is trying to tell me something. I think it’s saying, Road Trip! Get your taste buds in gear for a drive along Ontario’s craft beer route. Travelling through six regions of the province, it covers several hundred kilometres from Ottawa to Muskoka. I’ve completed only a portion of this excursion so far. However, I can tell you to leave time to stop in at a few bakeries along the way and stock up on fresh and scrumptious butter tarts. The craft beer route conveniently cuts through portions of the equally appealing butter tart trail.
+ For more on the top travel destinations visit www.tidingsmag.com/travel/
inter rings by rosemary mantini
unique escapes
Been there, done that, have you? Or perhaps you would prefer to frequent the same wintertime destination year-in, year-out. I have two words for you: try this. Head to Alberta. Stand with the Rocky Mountains behind you and the Great Plains spread out in front of you as far as the eye can see. You’ll find yourself at the “world’s oldest, largest, and best preserved” Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump. Sounds wonderfully dramatic, doesn’t it? It’s the best place to learn about why Aboriginal peoples occupied that location for over 5,000 years. Need another idea? How about this one? Instead of travelling to the destination, make the journey the highlight of the trip. Most provinces boast at least one historic steam rail line excursion. These huge iron horses bear little resemblance to the sleek, modern trains gliding along the tracks today. The engineers that operate them swear they’re living beings with distinct personalities. Hop aboard; a scenic tour of the landscape can last a few hours or a few days. Many of these tours offer fine dining packages on board and shopping stops in towns along the way. Enough relaxing already! There’s only one way to keep warm in winter, and that’s to make sure you’re moving. Imagine you’ve just cut your own trail in fresh powder, and now you want a new adventure, something that’s just a little out of the ordinary. Well, here it is. Skijoring. Take dogsledding (or horse) and cross-country skiing; mash them together, and stir. The result is a skier who is towed behind a running dog or galloping horse. C’mon, that’s cool. Now that I have you thinking of horses dashing through the pristine snow, why not consider an activity that most people usually only think about on warm summer days. Horseback riding along a groomed trail, brushing past tree branches heavy with snow is a spectacular way to take in the best of winter. Let’s go one better, shall we? Falcon Beach Ranch in Manitoba offers bareback riding along the Canadian Shield. End the day huddled around a blazing bonfire sipping hot chocolate. Now that’s a winter vacation to remember. •
You don’t have to travel far to experience a winter vacation that will have you talking for years. Check out your local, provincial or territorial tourist information centre for all the options. The attractions I’ve listed here happen to be on my own to-do-one-winter list. Nk’Mip Cellars Osoyoos, BC www.nkmipcellars.com Restaurant at Spirit Ridge Osoyoos, BC www.spiritridge.ca Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump Fort Macleod, AB www.history.alberta.ca/headsmashedin Falcon Beach Ranch Whiteshell Provincial Park, MB www.falconbeachranch.com Credit Valley Explorer Orangeville, ON www.creditvalleyexplorer.com Domaine Acer Auclair, QC www.economusees.com/domaine_acer_en.cfm L’Acadie Vineyards Wolfville, NS www.lacadievineyards.ca
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must try
a truly new world\\
by ron liteplo
winemaker Guillaume Constant
Two weeks in a Muslim country in the Sahara desert: but to heck with the heat and the incomprehensible language — my biggest worry was that I was going to suffer wine-withdrawal. Well, it turns out that a large quantity of wine is made in Morocco. But that’s not all good news. Under Islam, consuming wine is generally frowned upon, to the extent that many grapegrowers surround their vineyards with a concealing ring of olive trees for the sake of discretion. There is no wine culture, and hence little incentive to produce good wines. My first taste of Moroccan wine was in a Berber tent camp in the desert. I was surprised to find wines offered with dinner, but also intrigued: the bottles were made in Morocco, and in the heat (over 50°C), the prospect of a cold glass of rosé was enticing. Alas, this wine was both poorly made and obviously stored in the bright sunshine since then: it was baked, sour, and nearly tasteless. As my journey went on, I continued to sample, but nearly always had the same disappointing experience. Waiters and restaurateurs, like all merchants in Morocco, are highly enthusiastic about their offerings (“Best quality!”), but caveat emptor, my friend, caveat emptor. I did finally find some wines worth drinking. Domaine de la Zouina (“zouina” means “beautiful” in Arabic) is located near the city of Meknes, nestled between the Rif and Atlas mountain ranges in the northern part of the country. Wines have been made here since Phoenician times, but the Domaine’s heritage is in Bordeaux, for its founders ran Châteaux de Fieuzal and Larrivet Haut-Brion, and winemaker Guillaume Constant made wine at Château Gilet in St-Emilion before being seduced by the sunshine and terroir of northern Africa. One of the advantages Guillaume treasures about making wine in a frontier area is freedom. He can experiment with unusual varietals and blends forbidden in France. The Domaine grows mostly Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Chardonnay, but also lesser-known grapes such as Sauvignon Gris, Vermentino, Mourvèdre, Marselan and Caladoc. No pesticides are necessary
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because there are no grape-threatening insects, and vintage quality is quite constant from year to year because so is the weather. The heat and sunshine make different winemaking techniques necessary. For example, canopy thinning, common in Bordeaux to maximize grape ripening, is unheard of here: these grapes need all the cover they can get, to avoid sunburn and premature ripening. Sixty-nine hectares of vines, planted in 2001 on Morocco’s classic red-clay-and-limestone soil, produce about 400,000 bottles per year, mostly red and rosé, at two quality levels: the basic Volubilia, and the higher-end Epicuria line. Almost all of the production is consumed in Morocco, mostly in hotels and upper-end restaurants, but also by the general populace — in the privacy of their homes. If you find yourself in Morocco, these should be your wines of choice.
Volubilia Rouge 2009 A blend of 50% Cab Sauv, 40% Syrah, and 10% Tempranillo. Bright candy-apple red with fresh cherry-pie aroma. Fresh and fruity with a touch of leather, made for early drinking.
Epicuria Syrah 2005 From the Dalia Negra Madura vineyard at 828 meters altitude. Medium-deep brick red, nose of dried cherries with a hint of black pepper, good Syrah typicity; stood up well to spicy food.
Epicuria Chardonnay 2010 Medium brown-gold with a nose of fresh apples and nice toasty oak (aged 19 months in barrel). Buttery, with brilliant acidity, this was a delightful surprise and my favourite of the tasting.
Epicuria Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 100% Cab Sauv, a deep brick red with a classic cassis nose and some raspberry thrown in for good measure. Warm blackberries in the mouth, delicious, easily the best wine I tasted in Morocco. •
photo: Barbara Chapman
+++++++++++++ B y DUNCAN HOLMES
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My editor said he wanted a story about offal.
“Except for heads and brains, everything, so to speak, is on the table.” I confronted testicles as food for the first time at a spring cattle roundup in the Chilcotin Country of British Columbia. On that July 1 weekend, calves unfortunate enough to have been born male were not only branded, inoculated and de-horned in two days of violent rangeland activity, but their treasured sexual identifiers were deftly removed by a cowboy with a pocket knife and tossed onto the lid of the brandingiron barbecue to sizzle into lunch. Even if they have such romantic names as prairie oysters, Rocky Mountain oysters, Montana tendergroins, cowboy caviar, and swinging beef, it’s painful for a city slicker to watch all of this and wait for an old, hungry cowboy to say, “They’re ready.” “Oysters” don’t usually get the “toss it on the barbie” treatment, but out there, as the neutered calves staggered off to find their moms again, freshness and tenderness was guaranteed. No slicing, dicing and seasoning out here. Just sparkling-in-the-sun jewels that deserved and got a nervous “soft, and tastes a bit like sausage” bite.
We’ve come up with all kinds of euphemisms to hide the real names of the bits that end up in the collective offal family. Tripe, on the other hand, comes right out and says, “This stuff ain’t much.” Food that calls itself tripe certainly lowers expectations. Beautiful as it may appear in its latticed state, it has never been one of my favourites. Mother used to boil, then smother it, as she did with all meats, in a white sauce. On the plate it looked like the underside of a doormat, and it was just as hard to chew. “Lamb’s fry” was the clever name we gave to the liver of sheep. But no matter how we sliced it, it was liver and onions, still a favourite of folks of a certain mature age who don’t really care what it is, as long as it’s two for the price of one, coffee not included. Hearts, I think, should have been included with head and brains as non-essential for this story. I suppose that stuffing and roasting them might work, but somehow it would seem like macabre cardiology to bring it all together. For years I relished sweetbreads — which might double as a name for a dessert — until they became simply too rich for comfort, even with the best of frosty whites. I’ve made dozens of kilos of sausages, each time knowing exactly what’s in them and what holds them
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together, up to and including scoured-out pig intestines, which make the best casings. It’s fascinating to watch my partner oil and slide the casing onto the spout that spits out the filling as the sausage snakes across the counter. I sense that kidneys, alone or adding alleged richness to a beef pie or stew, are also for those of a certain senior age or British-pub background. You’ll need a very sharp knife to chop them up as they tend to be a bit wobbly. As with most offal, try to disengage your thoughts from their original purpose. I won’t be writing about the frightening eyes of a sheep that peered at me from inside a plastic bag in the meat department of a store in Palm Springs. Sorry, no brains or heads, which, of course, include eyes. But pigs’ “trotters” boiled up with good seasonings and set, glue-like, in a pot are okay, and so are oxtails, in a soup or a stew. Peeling tongues
has never been a kitchen fave for me, even if I’m quite willing to accept the stomach of a sheep as a handy-dandy container for the tummy-filling ingredients that turn it into haggis. The black puddings that help fill the “breakfast-included” buffet tables at any number of British hotels were not always that colour. No bloody way. And you will have to do your own research on repulsive Norwegian smalahove because, again, heads are out. Especially when boiled and served up with rutabagas and potatoes. Chicken livers, and any kind of pâtés, no matter how buttery rich and delicious they may be, are on my list. So are lungs, which breathe dubious life into markets around my neighbourhood from time to time. But thankfully I’ve run out of words. And I’ve all but run out of contributing critters large and small that we choose to eat. Bit by fascinating offal bit.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Serves 6
The best place to find one of these is in a pub in any village in England. A distinctive, rich taste that will keep you coming back. Or perhaps not? The pie at the pub will likely have been made using beef kidney. I prefer veal or lamb, and depending on who’s coming for dinner, I forget the kidney and use mushrooms instead. Your choice.
680 g boneless top-round steak 350 g veal or lamb kidneys 3 tbsp butter or beef fat ½ cup chopped onion
Flour seasoned with herbs 2 cups beef broth 1 cup dry red wine Pastry dough to cover
1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. 2. Cut the steak into 1/2-inch-thick cubes. Wash, remove the membranes and thinly slice the kidneys.
3. Melt the butter or fat over medium heat. Add the kidneys and the onion and cook, stirring for about 5 minutes. Dredge the beef cubes in seasoned flour. 4. Add the beef to the pan and brown on all sides. Add the broth and the wine. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for an hour. 5. Preheat the oven to 425˚F, transfer the meat mixture to a 9 x 9 baking dish, cover with the pastry and bake 15 to 20 minutes or until the crust is browned. …… Pretend you’re in a British pub, and serve with a beer!
46 // December 2012/January 2013
braised pig’s feet I used to love pig’s feet. We would boil them up with all kinds of fragrant seasonings, then let it them cool; strip the feet of the meat, which would then be added back to the liquid, heated, then poured into a mould. We would slice it and eat it with buttered bread and a pickle or two on the side. This French recipe is more elaborate.
2 pig’s feet, cleaned, rinsed and blanched 500 g lean salt pork with the rind removed, chopped 4 medium-sized carrots, sliced 2 medium-sized onions, sliced 226 g pork rind ⅓ cup brandy, warmed 1 cup dry red wine
1. In a heavy pot, heat the salt pork until the fat begins to melt. Add the carrots and onions. Place the pig’s feet and pork rind on the bed of vegetables, pour in the brandy and set it alight. 2. When the flame dies, moisten the mixture with the red wine. Season with the salt and pepper to taste. 3. Cover the pot and seal the lid with a paste made from flour, water and a few drops of oil. Simmer the mixture for a minimum of 4 hours so that the meat is completely tender. 4. The presentation will be up to your imagination. A pickle or two on the side?
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Serves 4
Serves 4 to 6
If you’re new to tripe, this will be a good starter for a dinner for four. Thanks to Maro Duncan, who featured the recipe in Cooking the Greek Way.
1
kg tripe, rinsed
½ lemon
1 small onion 1 or 2 carrots 1 celery rib Salt and peppercorns
2 sprigs parsley, plus 1 tsp chopped fresh parsley 3 tbsp olive oil 3 tbsp fresh lemon juice 3 tbsp dry breadcrumbs
1. Rub the tripe well with the half lemon. Place in a
saucepan with the onion, carrots, celery and parsley sprigs, and season to taste with salt and peppercorns. 2. Add enough boiling water to cover, and simmer gently for about 3 hours. Remove the tripe from the pan, dry thoroughly and cut into small pieces. 3. In a large bowl mix the oil, lemon juice and chopped parsley, and add the tripe. Stir well and leave for 30 to 40 minutes, turning the tripe pieces occasionally in the liquid. 4. Remove the pieces of tripe carefully and roll them in the breadcrumbs. 5. Put them in an oiled ovenproof dish and bake in a preheated 350˚F oven for 15 minutes, or until golden brown. 6. Garnish with the chopped parsley and serve with a sturdy white.
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In the introduction to their volume on “variety meats” — another of many colourful euphemisms for offal — the Time-Life people write, “Any cook daring enough to experiment with variety meats is almost always pleasantly surprised.”
In the sanitized, “best before” world where many of us urban-types live, we simply don’t have a lot to do with offal. It’s food for others. And no matter how many pleasant surprises may come from the outside and inside of mammals, birds and creatures that swim, most of us steer clear of the innards. We may try liver or kidney on a good day, even tail on occasion. But heads, feet, ears and all of the oddly shaped, strangely textured bits that are vital to living creatures? We leave those to braver souls and those who have grown up in cultures that consider all of this stuff delectable. My global research indicates that offal was and is eaten because it’s all part of the creature — and utilizing everything from nose to tail, inside and out, makes good economic sense. And why not? There should be more to eating than just the prime cuts. But the prime cuts look appetizingly different, more approachable than the oddities of offal. And to make these eating adventures even more iffy, we sort of know the function of these bits because, like the rest of the animal world, we too have all of these things inside us, and for that reason we mostly say no to the prep, the cooking and the eating thereof. It’s simply too personal, too creepy. But all of this notwithstanding, I did find some gentle recipes, for dishes other than just giblet gravy. Nothing too scary. If you wish to dig deeper into guts to perhaps find glory, your own library of recipe books and other sources will find you tastes that hopefully will really be ... pleasantly surprising.
48 // December 2012/January 2013
Do chicken livers count as offal? Your call. This rich and delicious recipe calls on several others, but has evolved over the years into being mostly my own.
½ 1 226 1 2 ½ 2 2
kg of chicken livers package of side bacon g ground, lean veal cup shelled pistachios eggs cup brandy tbsp sherry tbsp Port
Bay leaves 2 cloves finely chopped garlic Sprigs of fresh thyme Fresh-grated nutmeg ½ cup cream 1 tbsp gelatin 1 cup water 1 cup stock
1. Chop the livers into small pieces. Coarsely chop the pistachios. Place
livers in a large bowl; add the beaten eggs, the veal, the cream and all other ingredients except the bacon, bay leaves and gelatin mix. Stir, then leave covered to marinate in the refrigerator overnight. 2. Line loaf tins — or terrines if you have them — with the bacon to form what will be the terrine’s covering. Ladle in the mixture to almost fill the containers, cover the tops with more bacon and some fresh thyme. 3. Cover with foil and place the containers in a water bath in a pre-heated 425˚F oven. After an hour, top up the water and remove the foil cover. 4. Bake for another 45 minutes, then remove from oven to cool. Sprinkle the gelatin onto 1/4 cup warm water and stir to dissolve. Add 1/4 cup of boiling water and stir again. Top up with more water to make a cup of liquid. 5. Mix with the cup of stock and pour over the terrines to fill them. Leave to set in the fridge overnight. 6. To remove the terrines, dip them for 10 or so seconds in warm water, then turn them out onto a garnished plate. 7. Serve with small, sweet gherkins, plum sauce or some exotic fruit jam and French bread. With a nice cold white, of course.
++++++++++++++++
Serves 6
This is really a fancier way of preparing that perennial favourite, liver and onions. Make sure the liver is thinly sliced, and while you won’t want it rare, don’t overcook it. The balsamic vinegar enriches the taste in this recipe for 6 that I found in the New Basics Cookbook.
250 g bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces 2 large onions, thinly sliced 1 kg calf’s liver, cut into ½-inchthick-slices 1 tbsp unsalted butter (optional) 3 tbsp balsamic vinegar 3 tbsp chicken stock
++++++++++++++++
1. Sauté the bacon in a large skillet until
crisp. Remove it with a slotted spoon and set aside. Add the onions to the skillet and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently until wilted and golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove them with a slotted spoon and keep warm. 2. Raise the heat under the skillet to medium-high. When the bacon fat is hot, reduce the heat and sauté the liver, a few slices at a time, for 1 to 2 minutes on each side for medium-rare. If necessary, add the butter to the skillet and sprinkle the liver with pepper and coarse salt while it is cooking. 3. Slice the liver on the diagonal into about 6 slices per piece. Keep warm. Add the vinegar and stock to the skillet and bring to a boil, scraping away any brown bits. 4. Add the reserved onions and toss over medium heat for 30 seconds. Let them rest off the heat for an additional 30 seconds. 5. Arrange the liver on a serving platter or on individual dinner plates. Top with the onions and sprinkle with the reserved bacon. …… Serve with your choice of red wine. •
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the mav notes\\
93 Inniskillin Sparkling Vidal Icewine 2011, Niagara ($70/375 ml)
93 Ruffino Serelle Vin Santo del Chianti 2008, Tuscany, Italy ($25/375 ml) What a stunner! A gorgeous dessert wine with deep amber hues and a complex nose of candied tropical fruits, mango, marzipan, figs, citrus peel, honeycomb and sweet spices. It comes at you in waves on the palate with maraschino cherry, toasted almond, raisins, honey, crème brûlée, sweet wood spices and creamy caramel. It’s layered and textured and has a finish that lasts and lasts. Enthralling comes to mind. Enjoy with crème brûlée. (RV)
89 Osoyoos Larose Pétales d’Osoyoos 2009, Okanagan ($25) Full ruby. Nose is predominantly on delicious red fruits with a perfumed note. Of medium concentration on the palate, its tannins have a fine grain of good quality. Already providing pleasure in the glass. (GBQc)
This special bottling of sparkling Vidal Icewine has quickly become a favourite of mine, and a style I hope catches on with every Icewine producer in the peninsula. It starts with rousing, invigorating aromatics of sweet apricot, peach tart and exotic tropical fruits. The bubbles from this charmat-method sparkler dance nimbly in the glass but explode on the palate with alluring sweetness and playful effervescence. The flavours are gorgeous with peach compote, orange peel, citrus, mango, apricot and honeycomb all delivered on a racy spine of acidity. Herein lies the future of Icewine. Wow. (RV)
89 Grant Burge Miamba Shiraz 2010, Barossa, Australia ($21.95)
The black/violet colour heralds a perfume of blackberries, crème de cassis, plums, raspberries, violets, spice and hints of tar. Full-bodied, the wine is rich and mouth-coating, with loads of dark fruit, mocha and spice. The plummy tannins are integrated to the point that some might not even perceive them. Drink over the next 5 years. (ES)
91 Nk’Mip Cellars Merlot 2009, Okanagan ($32.99)
Refined, nicely developed dark fruit bouquet reveals plum and blackberry notes with a dusting of cinnamon and a hint of redcurrant. Well-structured, powerfully concentrated and smoothly rounded dark plum and black cherry on the palate, culminating in harmoniously integrated fruit, oak and spice on the finish. A very impressive wine. (SW)
95 Cave Vinicole de Hunawihr Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Schoenenbourg 2005, Alsace, France ($21.50)
Medium-deep brass, like looking into the eye of a duck. Sophisticated nose of roses, lychee, a bit of celery and a hint of allspice. Full-bodied, unctuous, with flavours of tangerine and pears and even a sprinkle of coconut. Good now, but will last a long time. (RL)*
89 Santo Wines Santorini Assyrtiko 2011, Santorini , Greece($16.95)
Santo is the only co-op on the island of Santorini, and by law, all growers are members. That being said, they are focused on quality rather than quantity. This wine speaks of the volcanic terroir of the island: huge salty minerals combine with green apple and meyer lemon. The depth and richness of the wine suggest a pairing with oven-roasted pork loin with artichokes or grilled octopus drizzled with herbs and olive oil. (ES)
50 // December 2012/January 2013
xo, xo\\
We have been told for ages that the mouth has millions of taste receptors, that some of them even reside in our throat and these generate messages to our brain. Science has said we had four basic tastes: sweet, sour, salty and bitter. (Now umami — salts of certain acids — has been added to the list of what our tongue can taste.) These gave early humans clues about what foods were good to eat and what was harmful. According to one writer, “taste is really flavour perception — the summation of palate, aroma, texture and visual stimulation.” Without smell as an integral part of taste, one can’t always be on track. How lucky we are to have our noses to assist. And without our saliva we couldn’t taste much at all. As we grow older, the papillae — the little receptors on our tongues — don’t replicate, and we aren’t as good as when we were younger. Thankfully, as life moves along, we develop a small memory library so when we taste certain foods we are able to identify them again and again. With the aid of smell, of course, it becomes much easier. I was fortunate to travel though one of France’s southwest scenic areas, Gascony. Not to mention it is the home of my favourite gastronomy. It’s foie gras country. The locals consume all forms of geese, ducks, fried forest mushrooms and potatoes cooked in duck fat and of course rich cheeses and pastries. And what’s better to wash it down than a glass of Armagnac? Armagnac is wood-aged grape spirit which starts out as an acidic white wine. It can be made from a number of varieties but four grapes are most common: the powerful Baco 22A, delicate Ugni Blanc (Trebbiano in Italy), spicy Colombard and floral, fruity Folle Blanche. It’s often distilled only once in copper columnar stills.
Matter of taste
by Sheila Swerling-Puritt
Long aging in Limousin or other Gascon oak turns the clear distillate brown. It allows for a wide range of chemical reactions that produce flavours and aromas. Vanillin and other aromatic compounds seep into the eau de vie over time and undergo reactions too. The characteristic qualities of Armagnac start with its colour: there’s a distinct black note in with the amber and copper thanks to its aging. These become more intense over time and move from sawn plank to much more complex notes, including saddle leather and mushrooms. The most interesting tastes and aromas result from longterm alchemy between the various elements in Armagnac. These tastes range from prune fruit through Madeira-like notes of burnt orange-peel smoke, raisins and toasted nuts.
Château de Laubade XO, Bas-Armagnac ($80) It’s a sweet vanilla/caramel spirit with smoky, woody notes and creamy mouthfeel, with that tell-tale “dancing fire” on the palate.
Janneau XO, Armagnac ($85) Its lovely copper colour draws your nose into an aroma of toasted nuts, dried fruits and honey with floral and spicy notes found on a long pleasant finish. •
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who’s your daddy\\
Chardonnay is the mostly widely planted and consumed wine grape in California. There is one family, though, that shares a special connection with the varietal and is credited with not only introducing this classic grape to the region, but with the majority of its plantings in the state to this day. The Wente family’s history is inseparable from the wine evolution in California. Second-generation wine grower Ernest Wente was a member of the first class of the now-famous and highly respected wine school at University of California, Davis. Upon graduation, he embarked on a journey that would result in the family name becoming synonymous with Chardonnay. In fact, 2012 marks the century-long relationship between the Wentes and the grape varietal. In 1912, the young Wente persuaded his father, winery founder Carl, to import Chardonnay cuttings (purportedly from Burgundy’s Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru vineyard) from the vine nursery at the University of Montpellier, France and planted them, along with budwood sourced from the Gier Vineyard in Pleasanton, California, in the family’s vineyards in the Livermore Valley, about 50 miles east of San Francisco. Over the next 40 years, Ernest, through a vigorous selection process, identified the healthiest vines and those with the besttasting grapes. These vines were cultivated and replanted and, ultimately, became the source for the majority of Chardonnay planted in California. It is estimated that 70 to 80 per cent of the 100,000 acres of Chardonnay currently planted in the state originated from the “Wente Clone.”
52 // December 2012/January 2013
davine
by gurvinder Bhatia
Wente bottled California’s first varietally labelled Chardonnay in 1936. As late as 1960, the family owned a third of the Chardonnay planted in the state. The Wente clone started to spread to other wineries such as Martini and Hanzell, but the 1976 Judgement of Paris (JOP) served as the catalyst for the grape’s growth in California. The JOP saw a 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay, comprised largely of the Wente clone, defeat, in a blind tasting, some of France’s most prestigious white Burgundies. This sparked tremendous growth in Chardonnay, and the Wentes played an instrumental role in assisting new vineyards to get set up. At one point the family started a certified nursery to supply Chardonnay cuttings (which has since been closed). It is important to recognize that while the term “Wente clone” is often used, “Wente selection” is more accurate terminology. There are actually numerous clones of Chardonnay that exist in California, many of which originated and evolved from Ernest Wente’s vigorous selection process. Three of the most significant clones are the Old Old Wente Clone located on the family’s estate property in Livermore, the Old Wente Clone (Clone 2) and the Wente Clone (clone 4), said to be the most widely planted Chardonnay selection in California. The Wente family grows and uses these as well as numerous other Chardonnay clones in the production of their many wines. I had the opportunity recently to sit down with fourth-generation family member and winery CEO Carolyn Wente, to taste through a number of the Chardonnays produced by the winery.
Wente Vineyards Chardonnay Riva Ranch 2010, Arroyo Seco, Monterey ($26)
winemaker Karl Wente
Wente Vineyards Chardonnay ‘Morning Fog’ 2010, Livermore Valley ($18) Aromas and flavours of delicate pear, citrus and green apple, with hints of spice and vanilla; nice weight in the mid-palate and a pleasing freshness on the finish. 50% of the wine was barrel-fermented in second-use French oak. Aged sur lie (on the lees) for 7 months with batonnage (stirring of the lees) performed monthly to add complexity. Composed of 80% Wente clone (clone 4), 10% Old Wente clone (clone 2) and 10% Dijon clone. A great value.
Entwine Chardonnay 2010 ($17)
A partnership between the Food Network and Wente, Entwine wines are intended to help introduce wine to the masses and encourage the general populace to consider wine as an everyday part of a meal. Soft, round and approachable with aromas and flavours of apple and pear; slightly creamy, good weight and balance and a pleasant hint of acidity on the finish.
Clean, fresh aromas and flavours of banana, apricot and pineapple with a rich, creamy texture, hints of vanilla and a bright, crisp, uplifted finish. In the words of Phil Wente, and I concur, it’s “pow, wow, delicious!” Very versatile and can pair with rich, meaty fish like salmon and tuna, chicken and pork, Mediterranean-influenced dishes and even Asian-inspired cuisine. Consists of 90% Wente clone (clone 4) and 10% Dijon clone.
Wente Vineyards Small Lot Eric’s Chardonnay 2011, Livermore Valley ($40) Ripe apple, pear, citrus, peach and melon with fresh minerality and tart acidity; clean, crisp and refreshing. Completely unoaked and composed 100% from the Wente clone (clone 4). Only 300 cases produced.
The Nth Degree Chardonnay 2010, Livermore Valley ($55)
Rich, weighty and complex, with baked apple and pear aromas and flavours, tropical fruit, spice, vanilla and buttery notes, but still has a freshness with a crisp mouthfeel and long, rich, uplifted finish. 100% barrel-fermented in a combination of French, American, Eastern European and neutral oak and 100% consisting of the Wente clone (clone 4). A great match for butter-poached lobster or pork roast; could even hold up to a nice NY striploin. •
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//the food notes 87 Sandhill Gamay Noir 2010, Okanagan ($20) Given its reliability, more Gamay should be grown in the Valley. Opens with a fragrant array of plum, dark fruits and baking-spice aromas. Characteristic juiciness and fruitiness on the well-balanced, softly textured palate, leading to a satisfying, earthy finish. A robust choice for Asian stir-fry dishes. (HH)
87 Red Rooster Pinot Gris 2011, Okanagan ($18)
This perennial good value delivers again with its delightfully spicy ripe-pear nose. Well balanced from start to finish, with a rich, fruity midpalate. Ample pineapple, star fruit, green apple and lemon flavours. Sage and almond notes linger on the finish. Exceptionally versatile with poultry and seafood. (HH)
94 Sergio Traverso Memorable 2005, Chile ($19.50)
Mostly Carménère with some CS and a little Merlot, this spent only a short time in French oak, but has the spicy aromas and flavour from that experience. Deep plum red with generous nose of blueberries, green pepper, herbs and coffee. Full-bodied, with chocolate cherries on the palate. I had mine with burgers, but it deserves a grilled ribeye. (RL)*
87 Monkey Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Marlborough, New Zealand ($14)
A nose of zippy lime, grapefruit, tropical fruit and fresh-cut grass. It’s racy and zingy on the palate with citrus, star fruit, herbs and a touch of mango. Pair with chicken or seafood dishes. (RV)
90 Bodegas Castaño Hecula Old Vines Monastrell 2009, Yecla, Spain ($12)
Spain’s Yecla region is delivering some mighty fine wines at attractive prices. This is a beauty with a bold nose of raspberry and violets; lightly spiced and a touch of blueberry. It’s rich and complex on the palate with bountiful fruit and subtle spices. Pairs beautifully with Don Heliodoro Romarin Queso sheep’s milk cheese. (RV)
90 Merryvale Chardonnay ‘Silhouette’ 2010, Napa, United States ($78)
Delicious wine with loads of complex aromas and flavours: rich, ripe peach, pear, apricot and citrus with spice. A hint of vanilla and cream, as well as a lively seam of acidity that keeps the flavours bright and lively; a subtle bit of toasted brioche adds dimension. Calls for butterpoached lobster. (GB)
54 // December 2012/January 2013
88 Zantho St Laurent 2010, Burgenland, Austria ($15) A nose of blueberry, black cherry, raspberry jam and currants. This dark berry– driven wine is a nice find from Austria with blueberry/ raspberry-jam flavours and bramble-spice notes backed up by good acid and medium tannins. Try with red-meat dishes. (RV)
bouquet garni
roast then toast\\
I like to entertain for the holidays, but sometimes I’m a bit envious of my guests. They hang out in my dining room toasting each other, dropping appetizers on the carpeting and telling jokes they will refer to all night long. They set the rhythm of the evening during that interlude, while I’m just the grumpy maid peering out from the scullery, excluded from all the toasting and jokes. That’s why, for my holiday dinners, I often choose a main course that can be roasted, allowing me a chance to mingle with my guests. When the entrée is ready and meltingly tender, I bring it to the table and propose a toast. Then I bumble my way through a joke, nobody laughs and dinner is served. Here’s to the holidays!
garlic sirloin roast with red wine and shallot sauce serves 8
I assume my guests are going to get their turkey dinner at Mom’s house, so I like to serve something a little unexpected. A top sirloin roast, studded with garlic and slow-roasted, is a nice way to effortlessly serve dinner for eight. For the most even cooking, have your butcher tie the roast. I offer a red wine sauce for the more ambitious cook, but if you’d rather spend that time with your guests, let Bisto make the gravy.
1 boneless beef top sirloin roast, about 3 1/2 lb 3 large cloves garlic, sliced and tossed with 1/2 tsp kosher salt 3 tbsp olive oil, divided
1. Preheat oven to 250˚F.
by nancy Johnson
2. Make slits all over the roast and insert the garlic. Rub the
roast with 1 tbsp olive oil. In large skillet, in the remaining olive oil, sear the roast on all sides until browned. 3. Place on a rack in a roasting pan. Roast until internal temperature is 130˚F for medium-rare or 145˚F for medium, about 30 minutes per pound. 4. Remove from oven, tent with foil and let stand 10 minutes before carving. Serve with Red Wine and Shallot Sauce (recipe follows.)
red wine and shallot sauce The secret to a chef’s glossy brown sauce is cold butter. Use the same skillet in which the meat was sautéed, and stir in juices from the roast for the best boost of flavour.
1 2
3/4 1/2 2 3
tbsp olive oil shallots, minced cup beef broth cup dry red wine tsp brown sugar tbsp cold butter
1. In a large skillet, sauté the shallots in olive oil until soft-
ened. Stir in broth, wine, and brown sugar, scraping up browned bits. Simmer, uncovered, about 5 minutes. 2. Stir in juice from the roast. Over low heat, swirl in butter, one tablespoon at a time, until melted. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with roast. …… I love Châteauneuf-du-Pape with a beef roast, and of course a Bordeaux is always welcome at my table.
+ Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on tidingsmag.com
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pork loin with root vegetables and maple syrup glaze serves 6
Parsnips are an under-rated root vegetable with a slightly sweet, earthy flavour. If you’re not sure about parsnips, vary the root vegetables in this recipe to suit your fancy. Pork is one meat on which I liberally sprinkle on the garlic powder, even though garlic powder is a bit retro in the modern kitchen. Don’t be tempted to trim away the pork fat; it will prevent the roast from drying out. Cut the fat away after roasting.
1 boneless pork loin, about 3 lb Salt, pepper and garlic powder 2 tbsp olive oil, divided 6 large red potatoes, quartered 5 carrots, peeled and cut into chunks 4 parsnips, peeled and cut into chunks 1/2 tsp dried thyme leaves
1. Preheat oven to 375˚F. 2. Pat the pork dry. Season with salt, pepper and garlic
powder. In a large skillet, in 1 tbsp olive oil, sauté the meat on all sides until browned. 3. Put the vegetables in a roasting pan and toss with 1 tbsp olive oil and thyme. Add the pork. 4. Roast, uncovered, until pork reaches an internal temperature of 145˚F, about 60 to 90 minutes. 5. Brush the roast with Maple Syrup Glaze in the last 10 minutes of roasting (recipe follows.) Remove roast and let rest, tented with foil, for 15 minutes. …… Pour your favourite Pinot Noir with this dish.
maple syrup glaze 1
cup maple syrup 1/2 tsp cinnamon Pinch of cayenne pepper
In a small saucepan, combine the ingredients. Simmer over low heat until heated through.
56 // December 2012/January 2013
veal and mushrooms in sour cream sauce serves 6 to 8
The veal bakes in its own sauce and creates a creamy stroganoff-style dish that is delicious over thick buttered noodles.
2 1 3 1
tbsp butter tbsp olive oil lb veal stew meat, cut into cubes onion, chopped 1/2 lb mushrooms, chopped 2 tbsp flour 1 cup veal or beef stock 1 1/2 cups sour cream
1. Preheat oven to 300˚F. 2. In large skillet, in butter and oil, sauté veal
cubes until browned. Transfer veal to baking dish. 3. In same skillet, sauté onions and mushrooms until softened. Remove from heat. Stir in flour, stock, sour cream, salt and pepper. Pour over veal. Cover baking dish with foil. Bake 1 hour. …… Pair with a white Burgundy.
ham with mango chutney glaze serves 6
A fully cooked ham is ready to eat but can be baked in the oven with a glaze for an elegant entrée. I prefer the shank end of a ham, but the rump end can also be used. This recipe adds a savoury and sweet note with the mango chutney glaze. I sometimes take the easier route by glazing ham with orange marmalade or pineapple preserves that have been melted over low heat with a half-teaspoon of puréed canned chipotle pepper. The glaze will penetrate deeper if you crosshatch the ham with a knife. Some cooks stud the crosshatches with cloves, but I am not one of them: I think cloves overwhelm the flavour of ham.
1
fully cooked ham, about 5 to 6 lb
1. Preheat oven to 325˚F. 2. Place ham on a rack in a shallow roasting pan. Bake 2 to 2 1/4 hours or until ham reaches internal temperature of 140˚F.
Brush with Mango Chutney Glaze during last 15 minutes (recipe follows.) …… Pair with a California Fumé Blanc or a Chablis.
mango chutney glaze 1
jar mango chutney cup maple syrup or honey 2 tsp Dijon mustard In a food processor, combine mango chutney, maple syrup and mustard. Process until smooth.
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roasted leg of lamb serves 4 to 6
I feel like I’m in the medieval court of Henry the VIII when I bring a roasted leg of lamb to the table. Rosemary pairs naturally with lamb; fresh is best, but you can also use a teaspoon or two of dried instead. As always, mint sauce or jelly makes a fine accompaniment.
1 2 1 3 3
bone-in leg of lamb, about 4 to 5 lb, trimmed tbsp fresh rosemary, minced tsp sea salt cloves garlic, minced tbsp olive oil
1. Preheat oven to 450˚F. 2. In a small bowl, mix the rosemary, salt, garlic and olive oil.
Rub the seasoning mixture over the meat. Place the meat on a rack in a roasting pan. 3. Place in 450˚F oven and turn heat to 325˚F. Roast, uncovered, until internal temperature reaches 135 to 145˚F, about 1 hour and 50 minutes. 4. Remove from oven, tent with foil and let rest about 15 minutes. …… Merlot is a good match with the lamb.
baked rice pilaf serves 4
For the easiest of pilafs, try baking rice in the oven. You can change this recipe with any combination of ingredients such as sautéed green peppers, shredded carrot, chopped asparagus, peas, green onions, diced tomatoes, chopped dates, walnuts or slivered almonds. Try seasoning with saffron, curry or chili powder, paprika, basil or thyme.
1 1 1
tbsp butter tbsp olive oil onion, diced 1/2 lb mushrooms, chopped 1 cup long-grain rice 2 cups chicken or beef broth 1/2 tsp salt Minced fresh parsley for garnish
1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. 2. In a large oven-proof skillet sauté onions and
mushrooms in butter and olive oil until softened. 3. Stir in rice, cooking about 1 minute or until rice is coated with butter/oil mixture. Add broth and salt. Bring to a boil. 4. Cover and bake rice in oven until broth is absorbed and rice is tender, about 25 minutes. Garnish with parsley. •
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Tidings uses the 100-point scale 95-100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90-94. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85-89 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80-84. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75-79. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 & under. . . . . . . . . . .
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Our Scoring
System
* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . available through wine clubs green. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . white & rosé wines red. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . red wines
the commentaries in order to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board, or its website, for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler (ON), Sean Wood (NS, NB), Gilles Bois (QC), Evan Saviolidis (ON), Harry Hertscheg (BC), Gurvinder Bhatia (AB), Rick VanSickle (ON), Ron Liteplo (AB), Tod Stewart (ON) and Jonathan Smithe (MB). Australia // p. 58; austria // p. 58; Canada // p. 59-61; Chile // p. 61; France // p. 61-62; germany // p. 62;
Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category. Readers should open their palates to compare the relationship between quality and price. We’d also ask you to carefully study
greece // p. 62; italy // p. 62-63; new zealand // p. 63; portugal // p. 63; South Africa // p. 63; Spain // p. 63-64;
the notes\\ /australia / 88 Grant Burge Summers Chardonnay 2011, Eden Valley/Adelaide Hills ($19.95)
A refined and aromatic Chardonnay imbued with lemon zest, minerals, white flowers, pear, apple and a hint of honey. The palate is vibrant with refreshing acidity working in conjunction with the lemon, apple and pear on the long finale. (ES)
87 Hardys Twice Lost Rosé 2011, Australia ($14) Looking for a bold and meaty rosé to perk up your collection? This is for you. Manly,
in-your-face strawberry, blueberry and cherry fruit on the nose of this Malbec rosé. It’s slightly off-dry on the palate but layered in strawberry-cherry fruit that lingers on the finish. (RV)
87 Hardys The Gamble Chardonnay/Pinot Gris Chronicle No. 2 2011, South Australia ($15) A nose of creamy pear, soft vanilla, spice, tropical and melon fruit. The flavours are well integrated on the palate with spicy pear and toasty vanilla flavours balanced by decent acidity. Serve with grilled shrimp or chicken or creamy pasta. (RV)
58 // December 2012/January 2013
United States // p. 64-65
89 Thomas Hardy & Sons Tintara 2006, McLaren Vale, South Australia ($27)
Ripe red and black fruits with heavily toasted oak and liquorice notes. Very ripe, full-bodied with barely rough tannins that show some tenderness. Oak is very present throughout, but it is not excessive. (GBQc)
88 Hardys Butcher’s Gold Shiraz/Sangiovese 2010, South West Australia ($15) Dark ruby. Pleasant nose of red fruits. Supple and fruity taste, medium body, clean finish. According to the
producer, this unusual blend is an attempt to introduce Sangiovese to the consumer of Australian wines. Those who love Chianti need no presentation. (GBQc)
/austria / 89 Zantho Grüner Veltliner 2011, Burgenland ($15)
A gorgeous nose of lime, citrus, apple and slate minerality. Grüner is such a lovely grape and this is a perfect example of how good it can be. The palate reveals refreshing and zesty citrus, stone fruit, zippy acidity and a
\
vein of minerality that prances through the finish. Enjoy with grilled white fish. (RV)
/canada / 91 Inniskillin Vidal Sparkling Icewine 2011, Ontario ($79.95/375 ml) Straw-coloured with an arresting nose of honey and peaches. Creamy on the palate; elegant, with tropical fruit flavours nicely balanced with citrus acidity. (TA)
90 Luckett Vineyards Muscat 2011, Gaspereau Valley ($20)
Lush peach, floral and musky scents with a note of green herb and both green and stone-fruit flavours on the smoothly rounded palate. Floral, lychee and mineral notes linger on the lightly off-dry finish. A seductively aromatic wine to pair with lightly spiced Asian foods and seafood hors d’oeuvres. (SW)
90 Andrew Peller Signature Series Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Niagara ($30)
Here is a tropical-style Sauvignon Blanc which has seen some new oak influence. The bouquet of pineapple, honey, flowers, vanilla, yeast and parsley meets up with minerals and high acid on the palate. The long aftertaste makes me want to pair this with grilled mahi mahi topped with a jalapeño/ tropical-fruit salsa. (ES)
89 Château des Charmes St. David’s Bench Aligoté 2010, Ontario ($13.55) If you’re looking for a change
from Chardonnay, try another Burgundian grape variety called Aligoté. Only this Aligoté is grown in our back yard — at Château des Charmes in Niagara. Their 2010 Aligoté is a pale lemon colour with an earthy apple and peach bouquet and a citrus note. The wine is mediumbodied, crisply dry, full on the palate and mouth-filling. Food match: seafood salad. (TA)
89 Muwin Estate Northern Compass Framboise “Mistelle,” Nova Scotia ($18.99)
This fortified wine shows highly aromatic, delicately perfumed ripe red berry shifting to very distinctive sweet raspberry flavour, with balancing crisp acidity and seductively perfumed raspberry fruit lingering on the palate. (SW)
89 Nk’Mip Cellars Pinot Blanc 2010, VQA Okanagan ($28)
The Okanagan seems to bring out the best in this grape, and this one is no exception. Fragrant floral and ripe grapefruit on the nose lead the way for a supple creamy mouthful of refined grapefruit and green apple flavours. Zesty acidity and dry mineral grip add verve and dynamic balance. (SW)
89 L’Acadie Prestige Brut 2007, Annapolis Valley ($40)
Nova Scotia’s signature grape, L’Acadie proves its suitability in this fine-bubbled traditional-method sparkler. Fragrant orchard-blossom aromas. Juicy apple and crisp citrus flavours. Tart minerality
lingers on a very dry finish. 30 months en tirage instills yeasty bread notes. Palatecleansing with oysters on the half-shell. (HH)
88 Trius Rosé 2011, Ontario ($15.95)
To the best of my knowledge, this is the only Syrah-dominant (50%) Rosé made in Ontario. The remainder of the blend is 36% Merlot and 14% Cabernet Franc. On the nose, there is watermelon, ruby grapefruit, strawberry and white pepper/ spice. In the mouth, the wine is slim but long-lasting, making charcuterie and premium pâtés an easy call. (ES)
88 Road 13 Honest John’s Rosé 2011, Okanagan ($16)
This mainly Pinot Noir/ Gamay/Merlot 8-varietal blend delivers superb value with surprising complexity. Sports an attractive pale salmon colour, a red-appleand-spice nose, berry-bursting flavours and a refreshing, minerally finish. Its off-dry style pairs well with turkey or even order-in Chinese food. (HH)
88 Muwin Estate Northern Compass Cassis “Mistelle,” Nova Scotia ($17.99)
This is a refined, highly aromatic fortified fruit wine delivering bright, sweet blackcurrant character in a lightly syrupy package dynamically balanced by lively acidity on the very long finish. (SW)
88 CedarCreek Ehrenfelser 2011, Okanagan ($19)
An underrated aromatic grape that deserves more of the
spotlight. The very spicy and fragrant nose seduces, while the juicy, spicy palate satisfies with fruit-salad flavours, from nectarines to orange-lime to tropical fruit. Long, vibrant finish. Its slight, well-balanced sweetness works well with roast turkey. (HH)
88 Trius Barrel-Fermented Chardonnay 2010, Niagara ($19.95)
This Chardonnay has hit its ‘sweet spot’ and is drinking beautifully right now. Peach, flowers, honey, candied apple, pineapple, vanilla and spice flow out of the glass. The medium body, round texture and lowish acid make for a crowd-pleaser. Pair with halibut topped with a beurre blanc or chicken shish kabobs. (ES)
88 Jost Tidal Bay 2011, Nova Scotia ($20)
Although not a specific location, the newly launched Tidal Bay appellation represents cool coastal breezeinfluenced wines exhibiting a “fresh, crisp and bright” style. This inaugural edition has that hallmark, featuring fragrant orchard blossoms with squirts of lemon, grapefruit and green apple. Honey notes balance its zippy acidity and 10.6% abv weight. Bracing minerality lingers with a slight sea-salt tang. Scallop-friendly. (HH)
87 Sperling The Market White 2010, Okanagan ($16)
Ann Sperling’s blend of Bacchus (45%), Pinot Blanc (40%) and Perle of Csaba (15%) unleashes thrilling aromatics. The perfumed nose
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//the notes explodes with floral and spice. The palate exudes fresh, rich, fruity flavours, led by nectarine, apricot and lime. Medium sweetness ensures a delicious quaff on its own. (HH)
L’Acadie (20%), Vidal (8%) and Seyval (2%). Fine choice for the holidays. (HH)
87 Neck of the Woods Blanc de Noir Brut NV, Fraser Valley ($20)
Very light and fresh in style (no malolactic fermentation), this fermented-in-bottle sparkler exhibits a frothy, small-bubbled mousse that makes the wine disappear before it’s swallowed. Lemon, apple and honeydew melon unfurl to a very dry, crisp, mineral finish. Snap off crown cap; pour; celebrate. (HH)
Made from Pinot Noir, this traditional-method bubbly exhibits a faint bread-dough nose and fine, lively mousse. Attractive floral and spice aromas, along with generous lemon, apple, pear and white-peach flavours. Vibrant acidity upfront sets up the clean, mineral finish. Good choice for holiday parties. (HH)
87 Bella Gamay Noir Sparkling Wine 2011, Okanagan ($24)
This dry, fruity Rosé-style sparkler was fermented in-bottle for just over 3 months, with no dosage added. Delightfully fragrant nose wafts floral, rhubarb and strawberry shortcake. Bursts with ripe strawberry, red apple and pink grapefruit on the frothy palate. Open this after their Chard bubbly. (HH)
87 Benjamin Bridge Méthode Classique Rosé 2008, Gaspereau Valley ($45)
Attractive orange-rose colour, persistent tiny bubbles and lively textured mousse. Bright red fruits — currants, cherries, plums — abound from its fresh nose to zesty, off-dry palate. Embrace that signature Nova Scotia minerality. Blend of Maréchal Foch (50%), Pinot Noir (20%),
85 Bella Chardonnay Sparkling Wine 2011, Okanagan ($24)
94 Foreign Affair Unreasonable Cabernet Franc 2008, Niagara ($163)
Here’s the deal. Foreign Affair has cut its teeth on appassimento-style wines and excels at the highest level of quality in Niagara. This is the pièce de résistance, with the Cabernet Franc grapes dried an incredible 163 days and aged for 2 years in French oak. It is massive with thick aromas of cassis, currants, sweet eucalyptus, leather, stewed herbs, espresso, loam and spice that evolve in the glass. It is made with 16.5% alcohol, yet doesn’t show the heat. Think brambleberries, concentrated black fruits, mature cherries, an array of sweet and savoury spices, mocha, wood spice and plush tannins that melt away with grilled New York strip. My, oh, my. (RV)
92 Nk’Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Pinot Noir 2009, VQA Okanagan ($44.99)
Somewhat brooding nose nonetheless reveals fine red
60 // December 2012/January 2013
cherry with a dusting of cinnamon and refined oak. Classic cherry fruit with full-bodied, solid backbone and well-integrated fruit, oak and a splash of milk chocolate on the finish. (SW)
92 Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin 2008, Okanagan ($45)
Dark ruby. Intense nose of red fruits, floral notes and smooth oak. Nice tannic structure; firm and tight. Delicate acidity. The tight finish is a sign of a great future. (GBQc)
91 Tawse Quarry Road Pinot Noir 2009, Vinemount Ridge ($35)
This, the first release of this wine, was made from young vines, but there is nothing juvenile about it. The bouquet doles out cherries, flowers and spice. On the attack, it is elegant and linear, but long-lasting. It drinks well now, but given the acidity and tannin, it should age well over the next 3 years. (ES)
91 Norman Hardie County Unfiltered Pinot Noir 2010, Prince Edward County ($35)
This is the best Pinot Norman Hardie has made yet from County fruit. Deep ruby in colour with a spicy nose of raspberries and vanilla oak. Medium-bodied; elegant with sweet fruit beautifully balanced with oak and a mineral thread. Great length. (TA)
90 Osoyoos Larose Pétales d’Osoyoos 2008, Okanagan ($25) Dark ruby. Black fruits,
liquorice and a nice floral touch. Oak is quite present, adding complexity. Velvety and with a good, firm finish of great intensity. Excellent buy. (GBQc)
90 Hillebrand Showcase Red Shale Cabernet Franc 2010, Niagara ($38)
This Cabernet Franc possesses a dark cherry colour and a flattering bouquet of plum, boysenberry, cherry, spice, vanilla and mocha. The palate is rich and ripe, while carrying long with a mochatinged finish. It is starting to drink well now but will continue to develop over the next 8 years. (ES)
90 Hillebrand Showcase East Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Niagara ($38)
While the Showcase Cab might be slightly more linear than the Franc, it is a more powerful offering. Mediumto full-bodied, the cassis, raspberries, thyme, cinnamon and violets are layered on firm tannins. The best thing to do is to hold until 2014 and then drink until 2020. Pairs beautifully with a herb-and-mustard-crusted rack of lamb. (ES)
89 Joie Farm PTG 2010, VQA Okanagan ($23.90)
Based on “Passetoutgrain,” the Burgundian blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir, this BC version offers a characterful, well-structured combination of cherry and strawberry fruit with robust savoury and meaty flavours and well-modulated fruit and oak on the finish. (SW)
88 Lakeview Cellars Cabernet/Merlot 2010, Niagara ($19)
This impressive Bordeauxstyle blend delivers black cherries, cassis, smoke, cedar, spice, liquorice and vanilla. It is a medium-bodied offering with a powerful finish, due to its youthfulness. It should age well for the next 5 years. A nice slab of prime rib should do the trick. (ES)
88 Herder Meritage 2009, Similkameen Valley ($20)
ture, while the oak influence brings out cocoa notes. Solid choice for a by-the-glass red with burger fare. (HH)
86 Township 7 Merlot 2009, Okanagan ($25)
Toasty spicy aromas lift from the nose. Gobs of black fruit flavours gush on the rich mid-palate. Smoky notes pop up from start to finish. Slightly astringent on the back end, while the oaky finish lingers. Suited for well-marinated beef dishes. (HH)
This excellent value comes from BC’s rising-star wine region. Meets expectations of a complex 5-varietal Bordeaux blend. Scents of cedar, red berries, black plum and dried herbs. Impressive savoury flavours, well-integrated tannins and warm menthol finish. Decant before serving with grilled meats. (HH)
85 Township 7 Merlot/ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Okanagan ($20)
88 Trius Red 2010, Niagara ($22.95)
/chile /
For the number-lovers out there, the ’10 rendition of this wine is a blend of 43% Merlot, 35% Cab Franc and 22% Cab Sauvignon. Mid-weight with supple tannins, there is cherry, plum, vanilla, cocoa and spice in the mix. It is drinking well right now, and it will hold the course for another 3 years. (ES)
87 Monster Cabs 2009, Okanagan ($20)
The 2/3rds Cab Franc leads with a fragrant nose of floral and raspberry. It also bestows spicy tobacco and red berry flavours, while lengthening the finish. The 1/3rd Cab Sauv is less noticeable, but adds struc-
The Merlot (75%) lends fragrant aromatics and lush fruitiness, while the Cab Sauv (25%) contributes intense blackcurrant and firm tannins. Tame its oaky spicy-smokiness with grilled meats. (HH)
87 Vina Maipo Vitral Reserva Chardonnay 2011, Casablanca Valley ($14)
This cool-climate Chard has a nose of smoky-flinty-toasty citrus, peach and apple fruit. It has a creamy feel on the palate with tropical fruits, vanilla toast and lovely acidity. Serve with grilled salmon or creamy pasta dishes. (RV)
90 Concha Y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Carménère 2009, DO Peumo ($24.99)
Complex bouquet reveals blackcurrant, blackberry, clove, cinnamon and cedary pencil box notes. A generous mouthful of fine dark fruit
comes in a thick velvety texture backed by solid but accessible tannins and well integrated fruit, spice and refined oak on the finish. (SW)
88 Emiliana Adobe Reserva Carménère Organic Wine 2010, DO Colchagua Valley ($12.99)
Perfumed red and dark fruit with light herbal scents evolve into redcurrant, blackberry and dark chocolate on the palate. Well-structured with well-integrated fruit and spice, finishing with dry tannic grip. (SW)
88 Emiliana Adobe Reserva Syrah Organic Wine 2010, DO Rapel Valley ($12.99)
Deeply scented, fleshy dark fruit with peppery and earthy herbal overtones on the nose. Blackberry and raspberry flavours come in a well-balanced, moderately tannic, characterful package. (SW)
88 Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Chile ($20)
A nose of blackberry, cassis, tobacco, spice and the ever-present mintyherb notes. It’s a lean style on the palate with dark fruits, eucalypt and firm tannins. (RV)
88 Montes Alpha Carménère 2009, Colchagua Valley ($20)
Nothing says Chile like the Carménère grape. A nose of lovely black cherry, cassis, small blackcurrants, pepper and sweet spices. It’s lush and plump on the palate with
juicy berries, toasted oak and soft tannins. (RV)
/france / 91 Cave Vinicole de Hunawihr Pinot Gris/ Grand Cru Rosacker 2004, Alsace ($19.67)
Rich, deep old-gold colour. Smells like fresh crabapples and stewed rhubarb with a drizzle of caramel. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, tasting of fresh pears, peaches and apple. The acidity might be waning; drink this no later than 2014. (RL)*
89 Domaine Michel Juillot 2009, Bourgogne Blanc AC ($19.99)
Although it does not carry the specific appellation, this wine is from Mercurey in the Côte Challonais. It shows Burgundian breed with elegant green apple character, supple creaminess, bright acidity and firm gritty minerality. (SW)
88 Pyrène Cuvée Marine 2011, Côtes de Gascogne, Southwest ($12) Fresh nose with hints of salt, herbs and white flowers. Light body, lots of freshness thanks to the vivid acidity. A refreshing glass that will drink nicely with oysters or before them. (GBQc)
88 Joseph Cattin Brut Crémant d’Alsace ($17)
Pale yellow. Minerally, dried white fruits with hints of almond and quince. Light, crisp, fruity in its attack, it turns dry, especially in the finish. Clean taste overall. A well-done glass of bubbly. (GBQc)
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//the notes 87 Domaine des Carteresses Tavel Rosé 2011, Rhône ($15.95)
Deep pink in colour with a minerally nose of raspberries with an earthy note. More full-bodied than most dry rosés with mouth-filling flavours: a raspberry and white pepper with a floral top note. (TA)
90 Château CailleteauBergeron 2009, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux ($17)
Ruby-purple. Ripe nose of red and black fruits (raspberry, black cherry), subtle oaky notes of spices and vanilla. Rich fruity taste, tight and mellow core of velvety tannins. More fruit in the supple finish. Quite delicious now and over the next few years. (GBQc)
90 Château PhilippeLe-Hardi Mercurey Les Puillets 2009, Burgundy ($29.95)
A very attractively priced red Burgundy. Deep ruby in colour with a bouquet of violets, black cherry and minerals. Medium-bodied, dry and elegant; firmly structured and richly satisfying on the palate. Great with a steak and a light peppercorn sauce. (TA)
90 Domaine Gardiés Clos des Vignes 2008, Côtes du RoussillonVillages ($32)
Open nose, slightly perfumed, the oak is evident but not excessive at all. Chewy texture, full of fruity extract, tight tannic structure. A solid wine of excellent quality that will drink well for many years to come. (GBQc)
90 Domaine ChoffletValdenaire Givry 1er Cru Clos de Choué 2009, Burgundy ($33) Expressive nose of red fruits, stones; inviting. Delicious taste filled with fruity flavours, supple and bursting with baby fat texture. Too good to wait, just drink it now. (GBQc)
89 Clos des Fées Les Sorcières 2009, Côtes du Roussillon ($18)
Ruby-purple. Soft nose of black fruits, very ripe but not jammy at all, spicy notes and a little pastry from the oak. Velvety, the intense fruit and silky tannins coat the palate. Warm and full. Only the finish is a little firmer with its finely grained tannins. Drink over the next 3 to 5 years. (GBQc)
89 Domaine Cazes Marie-Gabrielle 2009, Côtes du Roussillon ($19)
Somewhat discreet, the fruity nose is very clean, as is often the case with bio wines. Nice freshness on the palate; clean taste, supple and very pleasant. Perfect balance. Enjoy now. (GBQc)
89 A & P de Villaine Les Montots 2009, Mercurey, Burgundy ($37)
Light ruby. Red fruits (cherry, raspberry), earthy notes of mushroom and hints of fruit stones. Light to medium body. Nice fruity taste, tight core of very fine tannins. Balanced finish. Ready to enjoy now and over a few more years. (GBQc)
88 Mouton Cadet Rouge 2009, Bordeaux AC ($18) Blackcurrant scent figures prominently on the nose
62 // December 2012/January 2013
with secondary notes of earthy plum and green herb. Generously ripe dark fruit in the mouth shows some sweet blackberry character with rounded, lightly firm tannins, sound overall balance and a touch of dark chocolate. Steady, reliable value. (SW)
88 Thunevin-Calvet Cuvée Constance 2008, Côtes du RoussillonVillages ($19) The fine nose of red and black fruits is pleasant. Palate is tight and full with a nice balance. Only a little bit of astringency, but the fruit is generous so it should evolve favourably. Good buy. (GBQc)
87 François Lurton Janeil Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, LanguedocRoussillon ($11.95)
François Lurton has a knack for making inexpensive wines around the world that taste just great. His latest offering from the LanguedocRoussillon is Janeil Cabernet Sauvignon 2011. The wine is deep ruby-purple in colour with a bouquet of cedar, blackcurrant and bramble berry. The taste is savoury, herbal and dry with a floral note. (TA)
85 Baron Philippe de Rothschild Merlot 2010, Pays d’Oc IGP ($13.99)
Robust, straight-ahead Pays d’Oc style with earthy dark plum, inky tannins and solid weight on the palate. Neither jammy nor excessively sweet, and matches well with hearty grilled or slow-cooked red meats. (SW)
/germany / 90 Hirt Gebhardt Riesling Classic QbA 2009, Rheingau ($14.67)
Pale silvery yellow. Mediumintensity nose of rhubarb, lime, apple and pastry dough. Delicious, crowd-pleasing tastes of peaches, apples and lime zest, with tangy acidity; but this is also a pretty sophisticated wine, and, like so much German Riesling these days, great value. Lovely now, but 2 or 3 more years won’t hurt. (RL)*
/greece / 86 Katogi and Strofilia Katogi Averoff 2008, Macedonia ($18)
This elegant blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Agiorgitiko smells of cherries, cassis, bell pepper and earth. It is mid-weight with very good length. The tannins are smooth, so it is ready to drink, preferably with grilled quail or smoked cheddar sausages. (ES)
/italy / 89 Tenuta Le Velette Rasenna Orvieto 2011, Umbria ($13)
What a nice surprise. A white blend of Trebbiano, Grechetto, Malvasia and other traditional Italian grapes, the nose shows green apples, melon and citrus. On the palate, it displays thirstquenching goodness with fresh McIntosh apple, lemon and pear fruits. Bake some brie with some sprinkled apple bits.(RV)
89 Dezzani Morelli Moscato d’Asti 2010, Piedmont ($14.95)
This wine will make you think of summer. Light straw colour with a frothy rim; orange blossom, cardamom nose; light-bodied, medium-sweet perfumed orange and peach flavours. Clean, lingering finish with a touch of bitterness at the end. Enough acidity to keep it in balance. (TA)
88 Mionetto ‘Mo’ Prosecco Extra Dry NV, Treviso ($17)
A floral nose with notes of sweet peach, citrus and apple. This non-vintage sparkler shows a surprisingly vigorous mousse, peach and tropical fruits, lemon spritz and a mellow finish. (RV)
90 Gemma Barolo 2007, Piedmont ($29.95)
Now here’s a Barolo you don’t have to wait for years to enjoy. Tawny ruby in colour, it has that characteristic bouquet of tar, roses and cherries. It’s medium-bodied, beautifully balanced, elegant with ripe tannins. (TA)
89 Agricolas Perdera Monica di Sargena 2009, Sardinia ($17.95)
The Monica grape is almost exclusive to the island of Sardinia. The wine (blended with 5% Carignano and 5% Bovale Sardo) is dense purple-ruby in colour with an earthy, spicy, plummy nose. It’s full-bodied with sweet, smoky plum-fruit flavours. (TA)
89 Masi Brolo Campofiorin Oro 2008, Veneto ($24.95) This is a single-vineyard
version of Masi’s popular Campofiorin, a blend of 80% Corvina and 20% Rondinella. Brolo is equivalent to the French clos — a walled vineyard. The wine is deep ruby in colour with an earthy, cherry nose with tobacco notes. Medium-bodied, it exhibits dry and savoury cherry and leather flavours. (TA)
89 Tommasi Viticoltori Arele Appassimento 2008, Veronese IGT ($25.49)
The nose shows elegantly developed, warmly ripe fruit, cinnamon, nutmeg, a hint of clove and a lightly earthy overtone. Typical cherry fruit flavours are enhanced by fruitcake-spicy intensity with bitter cherry and peppery notes on the beautifully integrated finish. (SW)
88 Tenuta Le Velette Accardo 2007, Umbria ($18)
The Accardo is made from 100% Sangiovese. The nose is rife with forest berries, plums and cherries and a nice note of spice. It’s bold on the palate with plums, currants, cassis and blackberry to go with liquorice, spice and firm tannins. Calls for a tomato sauce filled to the brim with sausage. (RV)
87 Ruffino Chianti 2011, Chianti ($15)
A nice, simple Chianti with a meaty nose of red and black fruits and integrated spices. Cherry, raspberry and bramble fruits emerge on the palate with balanced spice, medium tannins and good acidity. (RV)
/new / zealand 88 Monkey Bay Pinot Grigio 2011, Marlborough ($13.95)
Monkey Bay winery, a label of Nobilo Vintners, specializes in bargain-priced easy-drinking wines. Jumping on the Pinot Grigio bandwagon, Monkey Bay have produced a wine in the 2011 vintage that is more like a Pinot Gris from Alsace than the light Pinot Grigios of northern Italy. Coppery-straw in colour with a rich peachy, floral nose, it’s a mouth-filling wine with well-extracted peach-flavoured fruit and citrus acidity. (TA)
88 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Marlborough ($19)
Always a classic SB with gooseberry, grass, passionfruit and a basket of garden herbs on the nose. It’s lean and crisp in the mouth with kiwi, grapefruit and searing acidity. Old-school Sauvignon. (RV)
/portugal / 93 Quinta de S João Batista Pisa a Pé 2004, Ribatejo ($21.33)
Made from Castelão and Trincadeira, trodden by foot in traditional stone agars. Clear medium-deep cherry red. A powerful, complex, grapey nose leaps out of the bottle and is discernible well away from the glass, including influences of instant coffee, smoke, molasses, tea and fig. Surprisingly, the taste is of fresh mixed berries. The tannins are smooth, the acidity bright. Best now, before the fruit fades. (RL)*
90 Quinta de Ventozelo Vintage Port 2002, Douro Valley ($42.95)
You won’t have to wait for a decade for this to come into balance. Dense purple in colour, it has a smoky, blackberry and vanilla-oak nose; full in the mouth, chunky mouthfeel with blackberry and dark chocolate flavours. (TA)
/south / africa 88 Ken Forrester Petit Chenin Blanc 2011, Stellenbosch ($12.95)
Chenin Blanc is South Africa’s signature white grape (also formerly known as Steen). Currently at the LCBO, this bargain-priced Chenin is a highly versatile food wine. It’s light straw in colour and offers a minerally nose of pear with a floral top note. It’s medium-bodied, clean and dry with pear and peach flavours. A well-made wine and good value. (TA)
/spain / 92 Perinet Priorat 2005 ($25.33)
A blend of Mazuela, Garnacha, Syrah and other varietals, it is a ripe plum colour, so deep it is opaque. Rustic nose of roasted meat, sour cherries and a touch of tar. Full-bodied and beautifully balanced despite the high alcohol; rich flavours of ripe, dark berries shaped by 15 months in French oak. Not an old-fashioned Priorato, but neither is it a newfangled fruit bomb. Needs a couple more years to peak. (RL)*
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//the notes 90 Heras Cordon Vendimia Seleccionada 2007, Rioja DOC ($27.99) Reveals fine winemaking with complex, elegantly spiced, developed red-fruit bouquet and a subtle overtone of oak. Fruit is also well-developed in the mouth backed by solid structure, good weight and well-integrated fruit and oak on the finish. Will reward further cellaring. (SW)
89 Val de Los Frailes 2004, Cigales ($18)
Made from Tinto Fino, aka Tempranillo. Colour is deep plum, tilting to garnet. Subdued nose of seared meat and figs. Full-bodied and powerful, with tannins still proclaiming the 12-month stay in French and American oak barrels. In the mouth one finds black cherries and stewed fruit. Needs another year or two. (RL)*
88 La Casona de Castaño Old Vines Monastrell 2011, Yecla ($8.90)
Monastrell is what the Spaniards call the Mourvèdre grape. Deep purple in colour with a spicy black-cherry-andpipe-tobacco nose; full-bodied, richly extracted, perfumed blackberry flavour, mouth-
filling with a firm tannic finish. Great value. (TA)
/united / states 89 Bonterra Viognier 2010, Mendocino County, California $20
Pale yellow. Exotic fruits (apricot, starfruit) and lanolin on the overall quite ripe nose. Delicate acidity, mellow middle palate of good intensity and weight. The finish has a nice roundness in the peaking fruity taste. Ready to drink with sushi or chicken mango. (GBQc)
89 Treana White 2009, Central Coast California ($29)
This blend of Marsanne and Viognier has seen new oak. Full-bodied, the perfume of peach, honeysuckle, pineapple, banana, cream and spice enthralls the senses. The full-bodied palate is thick and oily with a great aftertaste. (ES)
88 Liberty School Chardonnay 2009, Central Coast California ($18.95) The grapes for this mediumbodied Chardonnay were sourced from the cool regions
of Santa Barbara and Monterey. Aromas and flavours of cream, pineapple, red apple, peach, spice, white flowers and honey are all in play. The lingering finish and crisp acidity provides food versatility and lift. (ES)
88 Chateau St Jean Sonoma County Chardonnay 2010, Sonoma ($19)
It starts with vanilla-butterscotch-butter aromas, then citrus, apple and Asian-pear notes on the nose. It’s ripe and round on the palate with lemon zing providing an acid lift through the mid-palate. There’s a nice touch of toasted almonds through a fairly smooth finish. Great-value Sonoma Chard. (RV)
88 Starmont Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Napa ($34)
Beautifully lively and fresh with aromas and flavours of tropical fruit, citrus, melon and a touch of exotic zestiness; a nice bit of weightiness in the mid-palate and finishing clean with mineral, refreshing acidity and a touch of tart citrus peel. A nice match with fresh shellfish salads, sashimi and Asian cuisine. (GB)
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64 // December 2012/January 2013
88 Murrieta’s Well The Whip 2011, Livermore Valley ($38)
Bright and fresh with peach and citrus flavours, lovely hints of citrus blossom with a clean minerality and just a hint of residual sugar that is balanced well by the acidity. A much better example of what Conundrum used to be. Blend of Chardonnay, Semillon, Gewürztraminer, Orange Muscat, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc. (GB)
87 Mirassou Pinot Grigio 2011, California ($14.99)
Fragrant scents of lemon honey and ripe yellow fruits open the way for succulently ripe yellow fruit and honeyed citrus fruit in the mouth. Finishes off-dry with refreshingly crisp acidity for balance. (SW)
87 Toasted Head Chardonnay 2011, California ($18)
The oak has been dialled down consistently with each vintage that passes on the Toasted Head. It’s now a much more balanced Chard with peach, pineapple, apple and yes, creamy oak spice, but not over the top. The ripe fruits on the palate are joined by butterscotch, toast and
vanilla flavours. For fans of oaky Chards. Try with poultry, seafood or creamy pasta. (RV)
87 Starmont Chardonnay 2010, Napa ($36) Ripe and layered with flavours of citrus, baked apple, pineapple and pear with a gentle creaminess and hint of minerality; ripe and elegant with a hint of toastiness and an impressive range of depth and flavour through to the lingering finish. (GB)
93 Jarvis Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2005, Napa ($225)
Red and blackcurrant, plum, blackberry and floral scents with a touch of anise and mineral. Ripe tannins let the flavours glide through the finish, where a hint of mocha adds another beautiful dimension. A gorgeous wine that will cellar well through the decade. (GB)
92 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Private Reserve’ 2005, Napa ($150)
Engaging, supple, complex and layered with juicy black cherry and blackberry, notes of mocha, currant, plum and liquorice; full-bodied, yet so graceful and silky on the long, elegant finish. (GB)
92 Merryvale Profile 2009, Napa ($195)
Youthful, powerful and vibrant with spicy currant, plum, black cherry and anise flavours with touches of sweet oak mocha and spice; great complexity and depth with firm, velvety tannins and a long, rich finish. Should cellar well for the next 5 to 8 years. (GB)
91 Treana Red 2009, Paso Robles ($39.95)
The grapes for this blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Syrah were sourced from the warm Paso Robles AVA, after which it spent 14 months in French barrels, of which 50% were new. This has translated into a plush red with an opaque black colour, and a profile of toast, vanilla, blackcurrant, raspberries, dark cherries, violets and pepper/spice. Excellent persistency and well-integrated tannins will ensure another 7 years of longevity. (ES)
91 Merryvale Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Napa ($109)
Plush with elegance and finesse. Luxurious tannins with full currant, black cherry and blackberry fruit; hints of spice, nutmeg and black liquorice and a long, lingering finish. (GB)
90 Chateau St Jean Pinot Noir 2009, Sonoma County ($36.91) On the nose, opulent fine cherry fruit with suggestions of cinnamon, nutmeg, mint and refined oak. Flavours of cherry, raspberry and a splash of dark chocolate in the mouth, with firm structure, substantial weight and well-modulated fruit, oak and spice on the finish. (SW)
90 Jarvis Tempranillo 2010, Napa ($90)
Bright, juicy and intense with wild berry and blackberry aromas and flavours, hints of cedar, good focus and a nice fresh acidity combined with soft but firm underlying tannins. Puts Tempranillo in the heat of the Napa sun
without compromising the grape’s varietal character. Nicely done. (GB)
with a spicy, dark chocolate note. It’s full on the palate with supple tannins. (TA)
89 Chateau St Jean Sonoma County Pinot Noir 2009, Sonoma ($30)
88 Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Paso Robles ($19.95)
89 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Napa ($35)
88 Chateau St Jean Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($20)
88 Mirassou Pinot Noir 2011, California ($14.99)
87 Red Rock Malbec Reserve 2010, California ($17)
An inviting nose of warm baking spices, cherry-raspberry pie, leather, cigar-box cedar, sandalwood and savoury notes. It’s quite nice on the palate with youthful red fruits, plum, integrated spice and a creamy-silky feel through the finish. (RV)
A nose of cherry, plum, spice, oak, cocoa, vanilla and blackberry-cassis. Quite tannic on the palate but juicy and laden with currants, blackberry and minty spices. Well balanced through the finish. Can stand some cellaring. (RV)
Perfumed red fruit scents show prominent cherry with a pinch of cinnamon. Strawberry flavours kick in on the palate supported by moderate tannins, balanced fresh acidity, a light splash of chocolate and a pinch of peppery spice on the finish. (SW)
88 Red Rock Winery Malbec Reserve 2010, California ($16.95)
I don’t come across Malbec from California very often, but this one is made by E & J Gallo under the Red Rock Winery label. It’s deep ruby in colour with a smoky, truffle, barnyard nose; the fruit is ripe and sweet with jammy blackberry and blackcurrant flavours, ending
Definite savoury streak which weaves through the cassis, dark cherries, plums, violets, cocoa and spice. The supple tannins, moderate alcohol and fruit-driven finish make for a thoroughly enjoyable glass of wine with hamburgers or pot roast. (ES)
A nose of plum, cherry, mint with lovely chocolate and spice. It’s a fruit-forward Cab on the palate with liquorice, spice, cocoa, cherry extract, vanilla and ripe tannins. Another well-priced wine from California. (RV)
The fruits on the nose range from plums and currants to raspberry and boysenberry with light spice. It oozes red fruits on the palate along with currants, a hint of chocolate and soft tannins through the finish. (RV)
87 Merryvale Pinot Noir 2010, Carneros ($52) Elegant and understated yet fresh and bright with a nice approachability. Cherry, strawberry and cranberry flavours with notes of fresh herbs, tea, earth and a hint of oak with a pleasant, soft bit of acidity on the finish. A nice match with braised rabbit. (GB)
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is there an echo\\
Whenever I’m asked where to visit in the Napa Valley if I had only one day to taste, I always recommend the Napa Wine Company in Oakville. You’ll find it right next door to the Oakville Grocery (established 1881 and great for picking up picnic food). Here, under one roof, you can sample up to 30 wines made by the resident winemaker — or by winemakers who don’t necessarily want to use their own facility for small lot production, or by growers who want to test the quality of the fruit from their vineyards before going to the expense of investing in bricks and mortar. The Napa Wine Company, housed in a building that dates back to 1877, when it was the Brun & Chaix Nouveau Médoc Winery, is a custom crush facility where every vintage more than 60 wineries produce over 150 different wines. Now I can give the same advice to wine lovers visiting the Okanagan Valley who have only a few hours to taste: make a beeline to the Okanagan Crush Pad in Summerland. This new enterprise created by Christine Coletta and her husband Steve Lornie is set in an ultra-modern concrete-and-glass building in the 10-acre Switchback Vineyard. Until 2005 this plot was an orchard and is now planted to Pinot Gris. If you go, say hello to Echo the winery dog, a friendly black Lab.
66 // December 2012/January 2013
final word
by tony aspler
OCP’s resident winemaker is Michael Bartier, formerly the magician at Road 13 Vineyards. Bartier makes a variety of wines here under such labels as Haywire, Bartier & Scholefield, Bartier Brothers, Bella Wines, Harper’s Trail and Rafter F. Tom Di Bello, the longtime winemaker at CedarCreek and now consulting with Harry McWatters in Vintage Consulting Group, makes his Di Bello Syrah, Merlot and Chardonnay here. On a recent visit to the Okanagan I toured OCP’s 7,750 square foot facility and tasted a series of wines produced by Michael Bartier, including the thirdharvest Switchback Pinot Gris 2011 (medium straw in colour; minerally, peach-pit nose; dry, grapefruit and white peach flavours driven by citrus acidity). In addition to extending Michael Bartier’s winemaking skills to clients, Okanagan Crush Pad offers what they call “field to market” expertise — assisting in the marketing, label design and promotion of wines produced at the state-of-the-art facility, which has a 25,000-case capacity. Coletta and Lornie have big plans. The company has purchased 317 acres of raw ranch land in Summerland’s Garnet Valley, where they will probably plant Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc on the advice of their Chilean terroir expert, Pedro Parra and their Italian consulting winemaker, Alberto Antonini. Planting will begin in the spring, which will give See Ya Later’s vineyard on Hawthorne Mountain a run for its money as the highest vineyard in the Okanagan Valley (though those laurels may very well go to Don and Elaine Triggs for their Margaret’s Bench Vineyard at Culmina Family Estate in Osoyoos, which tops off at 595 metres). With the soaring costs of winery hardware and oak barrels, it makes a lot of sense for aspiring winemakers and vineyard owners to test the waters in custom crush facilities. This is what we need in the Niagara Peninsula. When Niagara Vintners and their 20 Bees brand went into receivership in April 2008, they had to vacate a newly built 43,000 square foot production facility on 30 acres of land in Niagara-on-the-Lake. 20 Bees was a brave attempt at creating a winegrowers’ co-operative — 19 grower “bees” with Sue-Ann Staff as winemaker. The entire operation, lock stock and barrel, was picked up by Diamond Estates. The facility, I always thought, would have made an ideal custom crush house. Maybe Christine Coletta and Steve Lornie will look east and decide to create a crush pad in Ontario. •
illustration: FRancesco Gallé, www.francescogalle.com
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