Tidings July/August 2011

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//features

30

20// i am a wine tasting addict

by carolyn evans-hammond A true story.

23// offspring

by Michael pinkus

Hybrids have grown up in Canada.

26// Associated by tim pawsey

Navigating the BC wine world.

30// Beaune-ified by evan saviolidis

Can we really compare Burgundy and Niagara?

34// Like this by lynn Ogryzlo

Looking at Canada’s top food and wine blogs.

36// fire within by rick vansickle

Bright days and dried grapes.

41// Sweet heresy by matthew sullivan

The art of pairing fine wine and fast food.

44// the scoop

by Duncan holmes

Nail soup and other delights.

49// linking

by robert hausner How one Canadian sausage maker gained success.

34 44 tidingsmag.com

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//Ă la carte 7// Contributors 8// from the editors 11// Conversations Letters to the editor.

13// Simple Living Michael Volpatt

66

14// Umami Joanne Will

17// Anything but

martinis

sheila swerling-puritt

18// Bon Vivant Peter Rockwell

40// must try john lee

52// Da vine

Gurvinder Bhatia

55// Bouquet Garni

55

Nancy Johnson

//notes 48// the mav notes

66// final word

54// the food notes

Tony Aspler

An appetizing selection of food-friendly faves.

58// The Buying Guide

Top wines from around the world scored.

Argentina // p. 59 Australia // p. 59-60 Canada // p. 60-62

52

CHILE // p. 63 France // p. 63 Germany // p. 63 Italy // p. 64 New Zealand // p. 64 South africa // p. 65 Spain // p. 65 United States // p. 65 beer // p. 65

4 // July/August 2011

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//online

//contributors

+ more on tidingsmag.com

Follow us on twitter and tumblr Quenchbytidings.tumblr.com twitter.com/quenchbytidings Lynn Ogryzlo is a food and wine writer and author of Niagara Cooks, from farm to table cookbook. Niagara Cooks is the recipient of the Best Local Food Cookbook in the World – Second Place by the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards. Lynn can be reached for questions or comments at www.NiagaraCooks.com.

travel Tour Sonoma with Michael Volpatt.

Cooking challenge Japanese Coleslaw Salad.

extreme cuisine Add mirin to your essentials.

cooking school New healthy beef recipes.

features You’re invited to an Argentine barbecue.

Harry Hertscheg is Executive Director of the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival. Harry also writes wine reviews for Tidings and Northwest Palate, and judges wines for Cornucopia and the Osoyoos Celebrity Wine Festival.

blogs Get your food and wine fix, updated weekly, at Best You Never Had and Kitchen Mama.

Plus!

More original recipes; a daily serving of

food and drink news and views; culinary tips, tricks and techniques.

In a two-day layover in Paris, it must surely be the mark of a true foodie to spend almost all of one of those days soaking up the ambience—and all the rest of what the great food emporium has to offer—at La Grande Epicerie, 38 Rue de Sevres. But that was the choice for our peripatetic regular Duncan Holmes, who in the same recent plane, train and tube trip through Europe, managed to also find yummy tapas during a national strike in Spain, and everything but fish and chips in London.

Next Month In Tidings The sun whites of sicily Touching the air in tuscany Scotch’s independant bottlers Touring sherry The mountain cheeses of France

Evan Saviolidis is a journalist, sommelier instructor and wine educator in Niagara. His company, Winesavvy Consultants, offers wine appreciation courses, tastings and seminars. Please visit www.evanwinesavvy.com, Winesavvy Consultants on Facebook, or catch Evan’s twitter feeds at Evanwinesavvy.

a place for gin Chile’s new movi movement ... And So Much More

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//from the editors July/August Issue # 296

\\

11 annual Canadian th

issue what defines us?

by rick vansickle Editor-in-chief

It dawned on me after about the 50th time someone asked the inevitable question when visiting Niagara for the first time. It was during TasteCamp, an independent international wine bloggers conference that converged on Niagara for three days in May to explore a region most of the participants had never visited. They had come from as far away as New York, New Jersey, Ohio, Massachusetts, Indiana, Colorado, Nova Scotia and Quebec to share in the bounty of what Niagara has to offer.

These bloggers, seasoned wine writers one and all, had that one question they asked at every winery they visited. “What defines Niagara’s style?”

They wanted to know our identity. After all, Bordeaux has their signature red and white blends, Burgundy is all about Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, New Zealand is Sauvignon Blanc and Australia is Shiraz. It seems like every wine region has that one important defining grape or blend.

So, what is ours? Ask Vineland Estates Winery, it’s Riesling and Cabernet Franc. Ask Flat Rock Cellars, it’s Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling. Ravine Vineyard? Merlot and Chardonnay. Southbrook Vineyards? Chardonnay. Inniskillin Winery? Icewine. Colaneri Estate Winery? It’s all about kiln-dried wines.

Ask the question, you get a different answer at every winery.

Aldo Parise editor@tidingsmag.com Contributing Editors

Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart Contributing food Editor

Nancy Johnson Contributing Lifestyle Editor

Rosemary Mantini Columnists

Tony Aspler, Peter Rockwell, Michael Volpatt, Joanne Will, Sheila Swerling-Puritt, John Lee Contributors

Michael Pinkus, Carolyn Evans-Hammond, Sean Wood, Harry Hertscheg, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Robert Hausner, Time Pawsey, Lynn Ogryzlo, Rick VanSickle, Duncan Holmes, Matthew Sullivan Tasters

Tony Aspler, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Jonathan Smithe and Gurvinder Bhatia COPY DESK

Lee Springer, Jennifer Croll web editor

Rosemary Mantini Creative by Paris Associates

And is that so bad? Canada’s wine industry, much like the country itself, is all about the diversity of styles that are rooted in the soil from which they grow. To thrive in the Canadian wine industry means diversifying your portfolio.

One of the TasteCamp participants made this observation about Canadian wine: “Stop trying to evoke Bordeaux and Burgundy. In Canada, terroir is alive and well. Soil geeks [are] making wine here.”

And that was reflected in the trunks of the cars of TasteCamp participants as they left Niagara: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Gris, red blends, Gewürztraminer etc.

This issue of Tidings is dedicated to Canadian wine, a winemaking nation that celebrates its diversity. Open a bottle and enjoy.

8 // July/August 2011

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Matt Daley, Francesco Gallé, Push/Stop Studio, august photography Cover Design

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conversations\\

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Lucy Rodrigues Circulation

circ@tidingsmag.com Accounts

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National Account Executive Jacquie Rankin: jrankin@dvtail.com 9 05-886-6640 ext 304 Account Manager Dave Chauvin: dchauvin@dvtail.com 905-886-6640 ext. 323

Re: “Do They Really?” by Gurvinder Bhatia. The fact that Mexico produces wine thanks to its Spanish heritage is logical. Yet, I, too, was stunned to find out that they have a wine industry.

Since it looks like none can be had here, I guess I’ll just have to plan a trip to Mexico!

... I found it to be smooth and pleasant, definitely a keeper ...

L. Stroud, email

I have to say thanks to Peter Rockwell for clearing up the debate about allergies to sulphur in wine. Several people I know had sworn off wine only to discover that they’re not allergic to it after all.

Y. Phillip, Vancouver

www.tidingsmag.com www.tidingseats.com Now in our 38 th year Kylix Media, 5165 Sherbrooke St. West, Suite 414, Montreal, Quebec, H4A 1T6, Tel: 514.481.6606, Fax: 514.481.9699.

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Tidings, Canada’s Food & Wine Magazine, a registered trademark of Kylix Media, is published 8 times a year: (February/March, April, May/June, July/August, September, October, November, December/January).

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We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada Periodical Fund (CPF) for our publishing activities.

I’ve never really been able to appreciate the whisky I’ve tried over the years. I think it’s that burning sensation in my throat when I drink it that I find particularly unpleasant. I did, however, have occasion to try a sip of Connemara Peated Single Malt that Matthew Sullivan suggested. I found it to be smooth and pleasant, definitely a keeper.

E. Sforza, email

I’m so glad Rosemary Mantini wrote about Northland, New Zealand in her “Eat, Drink, Live” series. My family and I had such a great time when we visited the area years ago. We lounged on the sandy beaches and tried to wrap our arms around the huge kauri trees.

The best part was that we never experienced traffic jams or loads of other tourists.

R. Kilby, email

Material chosen for publication may be edited for clarity and fit. Please e-mail your comments and questions to editor@tidingsmag.com.

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\\ 11

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Or is it the other way around? We always try to wait for our guests to arrive before serving the appetizers, but Sam can never wait. She enjoys making appetizers almost as much as she loves sharing them. Whether she’s entertaining a few friends or hosting a large get-together, the door isn’t even closed before everyone’s asking about the delicious aroma coming from her kitchen.

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SAM?

“It wasn’t hard putting the appetizers together. I steamed the asparagus, doused them in cold water to stop the cooking and dried them. Next I spread out three slices of San Daniele prosciutto from the deli, put down a thin layer of arugula so the prosciutto wouldn’t soak up any moisture, and wrapped five or six spears of asparagus into a prosciutto roll. I cut them across so they looked like sushi, only tasted better. When everyone wanted to know how to make my ‘Italian sushi,’ we all laughed.”

Santa maria food on cd SAM LOVES TO SHARE

Whether she prepares them in advance or on the fly, Sam believes you need to start with the best food and a simple idea: Of course Sam has a few misses now and then, but almost every story starts where the food starts, the appetizer…even the wine waits.

Enjoy San Daniele and Mastro deli meats with your friends

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simple living

by michael volpatt

//do you really hate me?

One of the most sought-after appetizers in Western Sonoma County are the flash fried Brussels sprouts at boon eat + drink. Crista Luedtke, owner/chef, opened boon eat + drink with much fanfare a few years ago and to this day, the restaurant brings people from all over the Bay Area and beyond to feast on its famous beet salad, mouth-watering truffle fries and everyone’s favourite flash fried Brussels sprouts.

Brussels sprouts you ask? These little baby cabbages can be challenging to say the least. While perusing online to learn more about this oft-despised vegetable I came across a Facebook page dedicated to the demise of the sprout and another forum that bills itself as having “true personal stories, advice, support and help from a group of five people who all say ‘I Hate Brussels Sprouts’.” How can one little veggie cause so much trouble?

Crista set out to prove to the world, or at least her small corner of Western Sonoma County, wrong when it comes to the sprout. And prove them wrong she did. Her sprouts are heralded on Yelp, written about in newspapers and magazines and devoured by her guests.

It took a lot of begging and pleading, but she parted with the simple to prepare recipe. Realizing that most homes lack the fryer needed to make the actual boon version of this famed appetizer, Crista adjusted the recipe so it could be made at home.

My friends and I, all big fans of the sprout, tried this out a few weeks ago. We served the side dish with grilled pork chops, rice and a simple arugula salad. This recipe is a must try and one that will end up a staple in your arsenal of easy and delicious side dishes.

6

cups of Brussels sprouts (stem removed and cut in half) cup extra virgin olive oil 5 garlic cloves, minced 1 lemon, juiced 1⁄2 tsp chili flakes 1 tsp salt 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper 1. Preheat oven to 450˚F. 2. Toss Brussels sprouts with olive oil and place evenly onto a cookie sheet. Roast sprouts for about 15 minutes.

3. They will be very crispy and some of the leaves will be burnt. Do not discard the burnt leaves. Remove from the oven.

4. Using a mixing bowl toss the roasted sprouts with the remaining ingredients. …… A slick Sauvignon Blanc, especially one from New Zealand, would work nicely with the much-maligned sprouts.

1⁄4

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Umami

by Joanne Will

//on its own

When Gregg Best graduated from university, he decided he didn’t want to live in a city for the rest of his life. “I went hiking and looked around BC. I ended up in the [Queen] Charlottes, started fishing, and couldn’t believe how rich the resource was. I started with halibut, then salmon, and moved to Dungeness crab fishery. When our kids grew up, we moved south,” says Best.

Best has been fishing for 37 years. About eight years ago, he also began harvesting wild spot prawns — the largest commercial species of shrimp on the BC coast. Plump, deliciously sweet and firm in texture, wild spot prawns are caught using the baited-trap method, which, unlike trawling, has minimal impact on ocean habitat and very low levels of by-catch of other species. The spot prawn harvest season begins in May and runs for approximately eight weeks.

Last year, Gregg and wife Anne opened a retail store, Cowichan Bay Seafood, on Vancouver Island. There they sell live spot prawns in season, and tails frozen in salt water throughout the year. This method preserves the flavour, and makes them virtually indistinguishable from fresh prawns.

“What we carry is all locally grown. Because we’re small, we’re able to run our business and keep our principles; that’s the only way I could do it. Unlike larger stores, everything we sell is Ocean Wise or SeaChoice friendly. One of the fishing companies I’ve had for 30 years is called the Better Fishing Company, because we do things a bit differently than everyone else. We have a real mind to keeping the resource around forever, and we know how important management is,” says Best.

14 // July/August 2011

Over the past 50 years, 90 per cent of shrimp in North America have been imported from Southeast Asia. In British Columbia, 90 per cent of harvested wild spot prawns are exported to Japan.

Spot prawn festivals, which are all about keeping quality at home, have sprung up on the west coast in the past few years.

In one weekend last year, thousands of people attended the spot prawn festival at Fisherman’s Wharf in Vancouver.

“Around here, they’re certainly becoming more popular, but we still have lots of work to do. Most restaurants still serve tiger prawns, and the general public doesn’t know they come from Asia. They’re quite large, and people get excited about that, but they’re tasteless,” says Best.

“Anyone can Google and have a look at where tiger prawns come from — which is usually out of back-road swamps in Thailand and Indonesia. Essentially, they’re farm-raised, where they’ve taken excavators and created ponds. If you look at some of the standards and some of the effluent that’s coming out of those ponds, it doesn’t look like a very healthy environment,” says Best.

So, what does Best think about the future of fishing in this country? “What I see in BC with fisheries is that we don’t have a lot of young people coming into the management structure.

If the public started to get connected back to this resource, like they’re starting to get connected back to farming that would help. Also, a lot of money goes into aquaculture and other programs, but money that once went into managing traditional wild fisheries isn’t there. It’s a shame, because I don’t think we know everything there is to know about the best way to manage wild fisheries, to keep them sustainable over the long-term.”

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anything but Martinis

by sheila swerling-puritt

//blending

Summertime brings back all the wonderful feelings that came with the warm weather when we were happy, carefree kids. The most successful summer drinks are whirled or stirred like our first favourite treats at the local ice cream store. Speaking of ice cream, trendy bar chefs are using it to make adult sodas and shakes, helping us feed our overheated inner child.

When the weather is hot, you need drinks that refresh and quench thirst. Keep cool in your choices. Good acidity is important. It balances the sweetness of summer cocktails in the same way that tart lemon juice balances the intense sweetness of lemonade.

If the idea of a spiked shake doesn’t do it for you, the old familiars won’t let you down: fruits and fruit juices (especially acidic types like citrus juice), iced tea and coffee, and the generous use of tropical fruit and coconut flavour notes.

Technology has given us better smartphones. Now it promises better summer cocktails. Remember liquid nitrogen? It’s not just for freezing roses solid any more, like your high school science teacher did. Liquid N2 is poured into the mix with the spirit and juice and freezes the whole thing, including the alcohol! I have a difficult time freezing mixed drinks because my freezer doesn’t get cold enough to freeze ethanol. That said, I don’t think I’m ready for this new toy just yet...

Frozen Papaya-Rum Cocktail Serves 2

3 oz light rum 1 oz coconut rum Juice of 1/2 lime 3/4 cup chopped ripe papaya (red ones from Brazil if you can find them) 1/2 tsp superfine sugar 1 cup ice cubes Combine all the ingredients (except ice cubes) in blender and process until smooth. Slowly add the ice cubes one by one

+ Visit tidingsmag.com/drinks/ for more drink recipes

until they are all crushed and integrated into the rest of the contents in the blender. Pour into chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with cubes of papaya.

Café Alexander

Crushed ice 6 tbsp espresso coffee, chilled 6 tsp crème de cacao 8 tbsp brandy 6 tsp whipping cream Put crushed ice into a cocktail shaker; add coffee, crème de cacao, brandy and cream. Shake well and strain into a cocktail glass.

Frozen Daiquiri 1/2 tsp sugar 1/2 oz fresh lemon juice Dash of maraschino liqueur 1 1/4 oz light rum Place the ingredients into a blender. Slowly add ice cubes to crush.

Pour into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a thin slice of lime.

Easy Does It Serves 16

1 8 6 6

can frozen pink lemonade concentrate (12 oz) oz water oz lemon-lime soda oz white rum 1/4 cup powdered sugar 1 pint fresh or frozen strawberries, for garnish Additional lemon-lime soda for topping up Mix all the ingredients in blender (1/2 at a time) until slushy.

Freeze at least 8 hours, stirring a couple of times. Prior to serving, stir mixture as the alcohol settles to the bottom. Fill chilled glasses about 1/2 full of frozen mixture and top up with lemon-lime soda. Stir. Garnish with a fresh ripe strawberry.

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by peter rockwell

//breaking up & sinking sake

Is there an appropriate wine to serve when you’re breaking up with your girlfriend?

Well, you can’t say that my readers aren’t classy. Since you’re going to wind up wearing most of it, I’d pick a white wine.

They cause less of a stain and if you’re at a restaurant (and isn’t that were most of these dastardly deeds take place?) you’ll look respectable enough to stick around and finish your (and her) entrée after she’s made a beeline for the exit once you’ve lowered the boom.

The last thing she needs is a glass of juice that’s too acidic or oaky. All things considered, I’d go with something slightly sweet like a bottle filled with Riesling. Plus, a white with a bit of sugary fruit will make for a better appetizer wine since I’m betting you’re the kind of guy who’s going to blurt out your intentions well before the mains arrive. If you want to go drier pick an exotic, perfumey white such as a Viognier or Chenin Blanc.

Really though, if the date stamp on your relationship really has expired (and assuming that you really dug your gal at least at the beginning) she deserves some liquid respect. The best fallback position will always be something you know she likes.

Familiarity may just make that knife you’re going to stick in her back go in with a little less pain and agony. (BTW, even if she loves it I still bet you’ll be wearing some).

I received a bottle of sake as a housewarming gift.

What should I do with it?

Good old sake: There aren’t too many tipples as polarizing as Japan’s liquid claim to fame. I know some people who can’t get enough of the stuff; while I’ve heard just as many suggest its flavour has a fleshy banality equal to sucking on a finger ... someone else’s finger.

18 // July/August 2011

While I enjoy a glass or two with sushi, having had my fair share of the good, the bad and the barely drinkable my jury is still out when it comes to a verdict on sake’s mass appeal.

Though called a rice wine (duh, because it’s a bit boozy and that’s what it’s made from), since it originates from a grain I say it’s more like an Asian cousin to beer. Either way, there are enough unique steps in the sake making process to allow it to sidestep generic characterization.

Since its name sounds so singular you might think that they’re all the same. Not so. The variety of styles is over the top, with each and every one coming with its own serving instructions. I prefer my sake with a slight chill, but since you have a free bottle play around with it. Try a shot warm, cold, cool and at room temperature to see what lifts your kimono.

If you’re not up for sake straight I got turned on to a hip cocktail while in San Francisco. ANZU — a California-Japanese fusion restaurant in the hip Hotel Nikko — makes a mean Cucumber Sake Martini. Cucumber is the flavour of summer 2011 and the ANZU’s manager shared the recipe: 1 1/2 oz sake 1/2 oz Hendricks’s gin 1/2 oz lime juice 3 cubes of diced cucumber Splash of simple syrup Ice cubes Place the cubes of cucumber, simple syrup and lime juice into a martini shaker and muddle the ingredients together. Add the ice, sake and gin and shake it up. Strain into a martini glass and garnish with a cucumber wedge.

This is one tasty concoction that just might convince you to give sake a permanent place in your liquor cabinet.

+ Ask your questions at bonvivant@tidingsmag.com

Illustration: Matt Daley/Shinypliers.com

bon vivant

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I am a wine Tasting addict

by carolyn Evans-hammond

Tasting Megalomaniac wines with owner John Howard recently at Chef Mark Piccone’s Culinary Studio in Niagara was the best.

These boys really know how to amuse a bouche. The chef’s smoked salmon appetizer was the edible equivalent of what I imagine George Clooney kissing my nape would feel like.

Be it food or wine, I

taste therefore I am.

Over the years, people have asked me what it’s like to be a wine critic. spending a

“It’s not work really, is it? I mean, how can you call morning or afternoon tasting wine ‘work’?”

Well, let me tell you. It’s not easy to taste upwards of 100 wines. I spit, but it’s still a bit of a go.

“100 wines?”

20 // July/August 2011

Yes. That’s what I’m up against at a professional tasting, be it the LCBO’s new release tastings Fridays downtown — sorry, wine press only — or those put on by regional trade bodies or importers. Then there is the steady stream of winemaker dinners, lunches, and samples on my doorstep each week. Frankly, it would be easier if most bottles didn’t disappoint on some level, but they do. I just don’t write about those ones.

I’m not blasé about tasting. It’s more than my job; it’s my passion. I still get that great tension in the presence of a flight of wine. The prospect of bringing what may be an exciting sip to my lips always intrigues. But I’ve been doing this long enough to go into each vinous introduction with my eyes wide open. Critics kiss a lot of vinous frogs. And sometimes, no matter how repulsive the wine, we’ve got to fake it.

I’m about to let you in on a little secret. A code, of sorts, among wine critics. At professional tastings, when asked by the bubbly PR/slick marketing guy/zealous winemaker what we think of an unimpressive bottle, we use certain words or phrases to hedge honesty. Call them the double entendres of wine criticism, if you like. (See the sidebar below). And, when we’re left utterly speechless, we draw on the studious but silent frown, nod, and frantic notebook scribbling to hide the disbelief, or in my case, fit of giggles that might ensue if I looked directly at the person pouring the wine.

It actually happened once. I was at the tail end of a long day of winery hopping — known in the trade as a “fam trip” — swirling and sipping samples with a winemaker and fellow critic. One of the wines was vile. Wretched. We were dumbfounded. My colleague dove into his notebook with the telltale frown. And I, having tasted too many wines to hide the hilarity of it, dissolved into fits, wine spraying from my pursed lips. My colleague tried to save me with a limp joke, but it was no use. Time to call it a day, bowing out as gracefully as possible. That’s another trick of the trade: knowing your tasting limit.

Another question I’m asked a lot is whether wine is just a matter of personal taste. Yes and no. When I taste, professionally, I look for technical correctness more than anything, which is the conduit for pleasure. Balance, fruit purity, appropriate structure, and typicity matter. Without these elements, the wine won’t taste good to me. Or you. And these things are absolutely discernable in a single sip and spit. Complexity, concentration and value for money: two sips maybe.

Winemakers critical of critics argue the sip and spit test is a lousy trial. A bottle needs to spend the evening with the taster, the argument goes. Enjoyed in all its phases from first pour to final glass. Um, no. Although that romantic notion has merit with the pinnacle of the market — think Petrus, vintage Salon, and the like—it is simply not necessary with yet another vintage of Jacob’s Creek Riesling. Or any wine that is under about $25 bucks per bottle, which accounts for the vast majority of the wines produced.

But being a wine critic is fun. My job is to give you the short, sweet critical information on what bottles are best so you can

keep on uncorking, or screwing off, without having to contend with vinous disappointment. My job is to keep your drinking in fine form. Which brings me to the point of this story.

For this Canadian issue, I leafed through my notebooks from my recent trip to Niagara and gathered tasting notes for the most compelling Ontario wines.

Canada’s best-kept secret, I think, is Vignoble Rancourt, a small, barely-known winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake. JeanPierre Colas, who also makes wine at 13th Street Winery, recently took over winemaking duties there and is making incredible juice. Of course, Monsieur Colas is no newbie. He was head winemaker at the renowned Chablis house, Domaine Laroche, for 10 years. And it shows.

I loved the tank sample of Vignoble Rancourt’s 2007 Merlot, brimming with classic cherry-chocolate charm, and the barrel sample of the 2009 Syrah, which had a heady and hedonistic allure most closely associated with the northern Rhône. Think spicy fruit laced with savoury notes of grilled meat and underbrush. Both reds were bottled this past spring and are available through the winery for a snip, about $20 each.

At 13th Street, M. Colas crafts a superb 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, called Essence, with cunning minerality ($35). Other best bottles tasted in Niagara were as follows.

double entendres of wine criticism Interesting: Can mean complex. Or tainted with too much of that controversial yeast Brettanomyces.

Or otherwise unclean, or anything else that defies favourable descriptors.

Crowd-pleaser: Can mean great value. Or too much residual, obviously there to pump up the midpalate and hide the absence of character — i.e., made to appeal to the soda pop set.

Accessible: Can mean balanced and honest wine.

Or single-note and uninteresting.

Smooth: Can mean finely grained tannins. Or lacks structure.

Refreshing: Can mean well balanced. Or simply searingly high in acidity.

Easy drinking: Can mean affable and delicious.

Or made in an overtly commercial style.

Restrained: Can mean elegant and subtle. Or boring and neutral.

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Megalomaniac Homegrown Riesling 2006, Niagara ($13) What’s the secret to this off-dry thriller?

A dose of 3.5% Icewine — but you won’t find it on the label. The result is an aromatic, off-dry wine teeming with chin-drip peach, lemon-lime, and a hint of Clementine. Light and lush.

white 13th Street “Essence” Pinot Noir 2009, Niagara ($45) Tasting a tank sample, this wine showed nicely with elegant, refined fruit, good typicity, and a power and finesse fairly atypical of Ontario reds. A bit pricey, but still good value; it is, after all, Pinot.

Angels Gate Chardonnay 2007, Mountainview Series, Niagara ($19)

Rich and creamy Chardonnay with roasted hazelnuts and restrained notes of pineapple. Elegant, sleek and seamless. I wasn’t fond of the 2006, but this vintage is stellar.

Quite seductive, it’s all about bitter lime zest, dry flint and subtle smoke on the nose and palate with a waxy, appealing texture. Quite serious and long.

From the extraordinary 2007 vintage, this wine offers silky viscosity, perfect balance, and a warm hazelnut-butterscotch topcoat over a tight citrus core.

red

Thirty Bench Small Lot Pinot Gris 2009, Niagara ($30)

Bravado indeed! Gorgeous blueberry and cassis-packed wine that’s long and stylish.

The tasting note on the website reads: “Defiant, gutsy, and self-assured to the max.

This is a very proud Cab Sauvignon indeed.” Can’t argue there; it drinks like a $50 bottle.

Struck matchstick aromas lead to rich stone fruit underpinned by charcoal, cinnamon and nutmeg.

Smooth, fleshy, and complex.

13th Street Chardonnay 2009, Sandstone Vineyard, Niagara ($30)

Toffee layered with orange and crème brûlée, finishing with bitter orange zest.

Gorgeous, refined wine with Meursault-like richness.

Hidden Bench Nuit Blanche 2008, Niagara ($40)

This Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend from 22-year-old vines sells out every year.

22 // July/August 2011

Le Clos Jordanne Talon Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay 2007, Niagara ($37)

Megalomaniac 2007 Bravado Cabernet Sauvignon, Niagara ($25)

Pillitteri “Exclamation” Merlot 2007, Niagara ($30)

Cherry and chocolate, spice and violet flavours swirl around in this captivating thriller.

Jackson Triggs Delaine Vineyard Syrah 2007, Niagara ($33)

White pepper and berry aromas lead to oodles of plum and berry fruit on the palate

seasoned with black and white pepper. Bonfire finish.

Inniskillin Winemaker’s Series Shiraz/Cabernet Franc 2008, Niagara ($25) Starting with a whiff of white pepper on the nose, this blend of 75% Shiraz and 25% Cabernet Franc brims with vibrant flavours of red meat, red and black berries, melting chocolate and white pepper.

dessert Angels Gate Snow Angels Cabernet Franc Icewine 2008, Niagara ($50)

Barrel-fermented, it shows vibrant red berries layered with lots of interesting complexity from the oak — smoke, chocolate, and coffee stand out.

Jackson Triggs 2007 Proprietor’s Reserve Vidal Icewine, Niagara ($40) Rich and complex with firm acidity. Peaches, beeswax, marmalade, and sea salt.

As a wine critic, I would like to be balanced and also tell you about what not to drink, but I just ran out of space. •

Off spr ing by michael pinkus

A hybrid is defined as “the offspring of two varieties of different species, distinct from a cross [which is] between two varieties of the same species” in The Oxford Companion to Wine. Wine drinkers know them by names like: Baco Noir, Marechal Foch, Lucie Kuhlmann, Castel, Seyval Blanc, L’Acadie Blanc, Leon Millot, and the queen of Icewine, Vidal. Though, there seems to be some debate as to their viability in a young wine industry trying to be taken seriously.

Jim Warren of Stoney Ridge in Ontario reminisces about where we were and where we’re heading: “It is absolutely amazing how we have moved our hybrids off our winemaking plate in such a few years. How excited we were about many of them in the 1970s, but today, it is all vinifera ... It is interesting to speculate a little on hybrids. If there had been no phylloxera crisis in Europe, then it is unlikely that French hybrids would ever have been created, and we would not have Vidal icewine today along with the industry we have.

Our winemaking history would surely have been different. No one appreciates that about hybrids. They served as a bridge between the inglorious past and the vinifera present.”

But while those in Ontario are split, the folks in Nova Scotia have a clear sense of where hybrids fit into their plan. Hans Christian Jost (Jost Vineyards) sees a “viticultural apartheid” against hybrids in other parts of the country. “But in Nova Scotia, they are not treated as a second class citizen in the vineyard.” Jurg Stutz of Grand Pré Wines says, “It’s what grows best here and delivers reliable crops year after year ... these varieties define us and help us form our identity.”

Wine writer and resident of New Brunswick, Craig Pinhey, hates the term hybrid. “A grape is a grape ... A good wine is a good wine, and you can’t identify hybrids by tasting, not if the wine is well made.”

Daniel Speck of Henry of Pelham in Niagara agrees: “No one knows or cares what a hybrid is any more than they care if the roses or apples they buy are hybrids.

It’s really a non-debate ... Let the wine speak.”

And so we shall.

THE Notes: 90 Henry of Pelham Baco Noir 2009, Niagara ($13.95)

A champ in the category. A nose of rich black fruit, smoke, vanilla and cedar. The flavours wrap around the mouth: black fruit, plum. Almost jammy with lots of sweet fruit, nice tannins and good structure.

90 Sanson Reserve Baco Noir 2008, Lake Erie North Shore ($24.95)

This is Baco with both nose to lure and fruit to spare.

Smells of blackberry, black raspberry, dark plum and vanilla; the flavours entice with that plum and blackberry adding black cherry and anise to the mix.

A real winner; delicious.

89 Gaspereau Vineyards Barrel Select Lucie Kuhlmann 2008, Nova Scotia ($24.95)

This is quite the wine with lots of black cherry,

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No one knows or cares what a hybrid IS ... It’s really a non-debate ... Let the wine speak.

Jürg Stutz from Grand pré southbrook’s Ann Sperling

vanilla and toast on the nose, which follows the same into the mouth, but with a nice smoky-spicy finish.

89 Jost Trilogy 2006, Nova Scotia ($17.99)

44% Baco Noir, 39% Marechal Foch, 17% Leon Millot. This wine has many flavours and aromas to keep you busy.

Smells of cherry jelly bean, beef jerky and beets; those flavours follow, but take a back seat to spice, vanilla, cinnamon smoked meat and leather. Play around with it long enough, and you get stewed plums and cassis. What more can I say, this one is fun.

89 Sandbanks Baco Noir 2009, Prince Edward County ($14.95)

Lovely smells of smoky vanilla, black raspberry and black currants. There’s a little residual sugar left in here, which lifts the fruit, taking away the harshness many find in Baco and smoothing it out to vanilla and black cherry.

89 Southbrook Connect White 2010, Niagara ($14.95)

This wine shows terroir, which is usually

24 // July/August 2011

not a hallmark of the hybrid. Peach and lemon drop with hints of stone follows from the nose to the mouth. Leaving that sweet lemonade flavour behind on the finish, the acidity balances it off nicely.

Bring on summer.

88 Domaine de Grand Pré Leon Millot 2008, Nova Scotia ($17)

Pretty nose that brings back memories of blackberry pie filling the kitchen; seriously smoky palate with plenty of black fruit, some white pepper and sweet pastrami.

88 Gaspereau Vineyards Castel 2009, Nova Scotia ($19.99)

Smoky black cherry and vanilla aromas fill the nose; the palate is very fruit forward with black raspberry and black cherry taking charge.

88 Domaine de Grand Pré Muscat Icewine 2008, Nova Scotia ($29.50/200 ml) What a treat this is. Smells of spiced ginger peach and a palate that delivers tangerine, ginger spice and pineapple

core. Not as sweet as expected but really enjoyable. Nice balance.

87 Jost Valley Road Leon Millot 2008, Nova Scotia ($9.99)

Nose was full of cherries while the palate also sung with more sweet cherries. Very easy drinking.

87 Lacey Estates Baco Noir 2008, Prince Edward County ($20)

Smells that are smoky, leathery and meaty with black fruit backing. Taste is more tangy with forest floor notes; slightly bitter with some meaty weight.

87 Jost Prost NV, Nova Scotia ($17.99)

A sparkling made from 100% L’Acadie Blanc. Quince and pear are the predominant aromas on the nose; big fat bubbles that carry a slight sweetness along with some kiwi notes. Nice balance between the sweet and the dry; good finish.

87 Jost L’Acadie Muscat 2009, Nova Scotia ($9.99)

85% L’Acadie, 15% Muscat. Smells of

Two great friends, a day in wine country, and a blind tasting at Reif Estate Winery....

Dave Beardsall at Jost vineyards Kimball Lacey from lacey estates

banana skin and apple greet the nose; flavours come off as peach pit with a hint of Bartlett pear. A nice battle of sweetness and acidity fight it out in the mouth.

87 Gaspereau Vineyards Muscat 2009, Nova Scotia ($19.99)

The smell is like watered down Chanel No. 5; the palate is perfumed as well, with just the right sweetness-to-acid balance.

Medium-length finish.

87 Sandbanks Rosé 2009, Prince Edward County ($12.95)

95% Geisenheim, 5% Cabernet Franc.

Raspberry and cherry nose leads to a raspberry and peach palate with just a hint of sweetness. Makes you hunger for summer.

86 Gaspereau Vineyards Crescendo NV, Nova Scotia ($21.99)

A sparkling made from 85% Vidal and 15% Muscat. Very perfumed nose laced with Muscat smells; pretty. Big bubbles fill the mouth with floral and perfumy flavours. Slightly sweet.

86 Jost Eagle Tree Muscat 2008, Nova Scotia ($14.99)

If you have ever smelled New York Muscat you know what you get here: perfumy sweet smells. The palate isn’t as sweet as expected and has an almost bitter finish; clean, almost elegant, with a lengthy finish.

88 Pelee Island Winery Baco Noir 2009, Lake Erie North Shore ($10.95)

This wine is black raspberry all the way through from nose to palate, with just the right hint of vanilla and sweetness.

88 Henry of Pelham Reserve Baco Noir 2008, Niagara ($24.95)

It’s the flavours here that are a winner, smoky meats with black fruit; finish is reminiscent of eating a salami sandwich.

86 Stoney Ridge Reserve Baco Noir 2008, Niagara ($15.20)

A smoky blackberry nose that is rather appealing, while the palate is leathery and earthy with black raspberry and high acidity. •

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... thats my

Reifstyle.

Reifstyl

905-468-(WINE) 905-468-(WINE

reifwinery.com

niagara-on-the-lake | canada

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5/4/11 9:10 AM

Associated 26 // July/August 2011

Some days it seems there are almost as many wine industry organizations in BC as there are grape varieties. Well, not quite. But we do have an inordinate number of winery associations pitching their place in the sun.

by Tim pawsey

Arguably the most successful group to date is Naramata Bench Wineries, which does a pretty good job of marketing wines made on the distinctive bench overlooking the eastern shores of Okanagan Lake. You’ll notice I said “wines made on” and not “wines made from grapes grown.” And therein lies the rub. A large proportion of the grapes that go into the wines come from elsewhere. Nothing wrong with that. Or is there?

Naramata Bench isn’t a sub-appellation, but it sure doesn’t mind if you happen to think it is. In fact, there’s even a page about “the Premier Growing Region in BC” on its website, headed (of course) “terroir.”

Personally, I like Nichol Vineyard’s approach. Nichol, a bench stalwart, dates from 1990. Current owner Ross Hackworth doesn’t go “off the bench” for any fruit. Most of his grapes are estate grown, although he does buy some from the neighbours. Last year, just to avoid any confusion, he started putting on his labels “100% Naramata Village Grown.”

As BC’s industry continues to grow, pressure is mounting in some quarters to start defining sub-appellations, in the same way that Ontario has. But while some of the sub-apps may be already relatively easily defined (Black Sage Bench, Golden Mile, East Kelowna, Westbank, Okanagan Falls and Naramata Bench, to name but a few), behind the scenes there’s definite commercial resistance to move in that direction.

Latest to flex its tourism marketing muscle is the newly announced Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country, which until March of this year was known as South Okanagan Wineries Association. SOWA (a similar acronym to Wines of South Africa!) had been looking for a new moniker for some time, the main reason being because nobody could really concur on just where the South Okanagan starts — although most agree, at least climatically and in wine terms, the south really starts at McIntyre Bluff, just south of Okanagan Falls. That’s a long way from Summerland, the northernmost point of the area generally referred to as the South Okanagan. Thankfully, there is no discussion as to where it ends: at the US border.

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fairview cellars’ Bill Eggert

28 // July/August 2011

Tim, Larry, Julie Martiniuk of Stoneboat Vineyards

No visit to the south is complete with a detour up the Fairview Road above Oliver, to drop in on Bill Eggert at Fairview Cellars. Eggert is the valley’s most celebrated one-man show, doing just about everything himself. You’ll taste what’s available, which may not be very much, because Eggert’s wines sell very quickly, and deservedly so. Watch for: The Bear, and Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as (if you’re really lucky) a Late Harvest botrytis-affected Riesling.

Even if there is discussion concerning the region’s northern boundary, no doubt exists as to the whereabouts of its southern limits, which are defined, or maybe more imposed, by the mass of Anarchist Mountain, with its corkscrew winding road and breathtaking views of the length of Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country. The entire eastern bench belongs to the Osoyoos Indian Band, who, under the direction of dynamic chief Clarence Louie, has in recent years developed Nk’Mip Cellars.

Take time to sit on the Nk’Mip patio, with a glass of creamy and honey toned Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay 2008 or gently smoky, black fruited and mocha toned Qwam Qwmt Meritage 2007 — and also to drink in the valley views.

The winery, Sonora Dunes Golf Course, Spirit Ridge Vineyard Resort and Spa, and the Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre all combine to produce a remarkable anchor and gateway to the region when approached from the east.

From trail-riding to nature walks, the cultural centre in particular — with its well-informed guides and wealth of artifacts — provides not only a worthy distraction from the regular “chores” of wine touring but also a “don’t miss” introduction to the cultural significance and history of this unique valley called, unambiguously, “Okanagan.” •

photos: tim pawsey

The main thrust behind the name change came from wineries in the south who can indeed claim that most, if not all of their grapes come from south of the bluff.

While even a decade ago, the area tended to be regarded by many as one big vineyard that supplied the needs of the major players such as Vincor, nowadays the number of smaller, independent wineries has grown by leaps and bounds. Overall, Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country offers a good cross section of wineries and styles, as well as an increasing number of touring opportunities.

Not to be missed is Stoneboat Vineyards, run by longtime growers Larry and Julie Martiniuk and family. The vineyard sits on an unusually calcareous and gravelly outcrop on Black Sage Road, which shows up very much in the character of the home wines. One of the area’s most consistent, across the board producers, of note in particular is the well balanced white blend Chorus, as well as Pinot Noir (a rarity in the heated south), and the award-winning Pinotage.

Across the valley, Tinhorn Creek continues to solidify its well-earned reputation as a leader with this spring’s unveiling of Miradoro, a spectacularly situated restaurant with view up and down the valley, run by the capable hands of Vancouver’s Le Gavroche owner Manuel Ferreira.

Tinhorn winemaker Sandra Oldfield was the first in the valley to convert 100 percent of her production to Stelvin closures, way back in 2004. And she was the first to appropriate “South Okanagan” for her label, initiating much of the current discussion on sub-appellations. Wines to watch for from the current release: 2010 Gewürz, the newly minted Two Bench Rosé 2010, and the perennially good Cabernet Franc (2008).

“Manny” is no relation (at least as far as we know) to the family who owns Quinta Ferreira, which puts a refreshingly different Portuguese spin on things. Unoaked Chardonnay and an intense strawberry toned Rosé show well, while the flagship red blend 2008 Obra Prima delivers a sound balance of fruit and oak, underpinned by juicy acidity.

Similkameen gets the heat

Keep going up the Fairview Road past Bill Eggert’s Fairview Cellars and you’ll soon reach the wooded summit before starting your descent into the upper benches of the Similkameen Valley. Just above Cawston, the full rugged splendour of the valley, which is hemmed in by steep, soaring peaks, becomes readily apparent.

Similkameen — truly a sleepy backwater, defined by its namesake river — delights in its quiet, eminently more rural and agrarian character, which sets it apart from the Okanagan at large.

While orchards have long been the mainstay, in recent years a scattering of vineyards and small wineries have sprung up, making this the newest of BC’s wine regions, and certainly one of the more intriguing. While the older plantings, such as Peller (Andres) on long established Rocky Ridge, are found closer to the river valley, much of the newer activity is taking place along the benchlands that define the valley’s (unusual for BC) east-to-west orientation.

Untitled-5 1

As is so often the case, for years Similkameen grapes were just shipped next door to be blended in with Okanagan juice.

However, little by little, the Similkameen is building its own distinct personality, as more vineyards come to fruition.

Rhys Pender MW was surprised to find that nearly seven per cent of all BC vineyards are found in Similkameen — and that many of the grapes were important parts of award winning Okanagan wines. Pender, who now lives in the Similkameen valley, says he was drawn by the climate and the raw nature of the place, as well as more reasonable property prices than the Okanagan.

Pender points also to the more complex terroir. “The soils are more varied, having been formed by glaciers, mountains spewing their debris into the valley, the rivers. The result is a much more complex terroir than the south Okanagan.”

He also sees plenty of potential. “It feels a little Wild West still; a downed economy and a lot less polished — but also pioneering and exciting.”

And the wines (to which I can also attest), says Pender, are “bloody good!”

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2/16/11 10:28 AM tidingsmag.com

B e au

ne-if

ied

//

by e v an sa violi d

Every year, as part of Cuvée, a.k.a. Ontario’s Academy Awards of Wine, there is an event reserved for industry professionals dubbed the “Experts’ Tasting.”

Recognition is doled out to media and promoters of the Ontario wine industry, and a themed wine tasting is conducted.

The grape diva of choice this year was Chardonnay, which has a long history in the province. The first Ontario wine made from the varietal was in 1955.

30 // July/August 2011

i s //

As the tasting progressed, a presenter suggested that we need a term to denote that our wines are made in the Côte de Beaune model. One such idea was to dub the wines as “Beaune-ified.”

Now, I will readily admit that I have compared many an Ontario wine to a Chablis, Chassagne or Vosne. But this started me thinking. Do we actually need to use a meter stick to measure Ontario’s quality? In doing so, does it actually help, or hinder, our wines?

Recently, I was a member of the tasting panel for the International Cool Climate Chardonnay Symposium (i4c). After sampling an array of 50 Ontario Chards, I was convinced more than ever that we do make wines which approximate the Burgundian model — fresh acids, elegance, and not overtly oaked.

Why? Similarities! In broad terms, both are cool climate growing regions. The common enemies are rain and frost, and much rejoicing comes to pass with a dry, frost-free year. Slopes are mutual. Limestone (more so in PEC) and clay are the dominant soils in both. And even though Burgundy has a head start of, oh, 500-plus years when it comes to growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the clones that have been propagated in Ontario originate from France.

According to Norm Hardie, “a comparative term helps immensely via associating quality and style.” His namesake winery’s Chardonnay recently received high praise from Wine and Spirits Magazine at the Seriously Cool Chardonnay Tasting in New York. According to the editor, Josh Greene, “it was long in flavour, complex and didn’t have any lasting oak flavour character in the finish. That it was more about the nature of the soil rather than the wood really appealed to me.” This is a definitive reference to the Burgundian style.

Paul Pender, Tawse’s winemaker and producer of some of Niagara’s finest Pinots, also agrees. “Yes. I think comparisons are good in the sense that they give us a reference point. I think in a blind tasting we could learn a lot about Niagara Pinots, and sometimes we could be pleasantly surprised.”

On the flipside, François Morissette, owner of the new Pearl-Morissette winery in Vineland specializing in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, has a different standpoint. Before returning home to Canada, François worked at many famous Burgundian estates, including Domaines

Paul pender from Tawse

Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier, Roulot and Gouges. “Absolutely not. It promotes the value of Burgundy wines rather than emphasizing the specificity of Ontario wines.

It is also based on generalities developed over hundreds of years of extremely varied viticulture practices and associated to each quoted terroir. Hence, it should be used as a mere stylistic reference, and not a comparative tool.”

So if our styles are similar, have we found an Ontario terroir? Norm believes that PEC has. “It is a homogeneous area, with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay being the calling cards. Niagara is a lot more site-specific, so it is hard to group as a region, especially with the myriad of grapes that are grown.”

Another issue that comes to bear in Ontario, as in Burgundy, is the ripening of the grapes. If we are unable or unwilling to ripen the grapes properly, either via lower yields or long hang times, terroir doesn’t matter. In other words, pick the grapes that ripen consistently, so as to showcase the place of origin. Is one to believe that a bell pepper-scented red shows its birthright?

Varietal selection is also paramount. Norm doesn’t pull punches when he says, “Cabernet Sauvignon should be abandoned.” As for other grapes he believes in, Cabernet Franc and Riesling are his choices. I totally agree. Tasting after tasting has shown that Cab Franc is vastly more consistent than Cabernet Sauvignon, and even Merlot.

Gamay, the other red Burgundian varietal, is also linked to Ontario. Outside both regions, no one really takes it seriously.

Without hyperbole, the best rendition

Ravine Associate Winemaker Shauna White

91/

Ravine Vineyard Chardonnay Reserve 2009, Niagara ($40)

Here is a superb Chardonnay with lots of complexity and elegance. Vanilla, apple, caramel, peach and citrus are in the mix.

The concentrated mid-palate carries the fruit and oak on the long finish, and the refreshing acidity brings everything into definition.

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DECANTUS Wine aeration at its best! ever made was the 13th Street Winery 1999 Gamay Reserve. It garnered more attention than Lady Gaga in an eggshell.

According to Ken Douglas, who made every vintage of that wine until 2007, “there are a few of us who really believe in the grape — Malivoire, Cave Springs, Château des Charmes and Henry of Pelham. We have even sent our wines over to France and they have all been knocked out, whether it be a $12 basic Gamay or reserve at $25. We do it better than Beaujolais.”

Putting similarities and differences aside, what are the pros of making wines in both locales? According to Norm, “it is quite nice dealing with the older vines in Burgundy. In PEC we are developing an

Laurent Juillot from Domaine Michel JUILLOT in burgundy

entire region. We have tremendous soils and discoveries ahead of us.” François also agrees. “Every region has its advantages and inconveniences. Vine age makes a huge difference wherever you are.

I’m also a bit biased when it comes to Pinot Noir, as I had the opportunity to make six vintages of Musigny Grand Cru.

whites 89/ Domaine Michel Juillot Rully 2009, Burgundy ($28)

Decants wine in seconds Allows wine to react with air to reveal its fullest flavour Available at many fine wineries and specialty wine stores, contact us for a location near you.

For additional information, please visit www.decantus.ca Distributed in Western Canada by Valentinos International Wholesaling Inc. www.valentinosintl.com and in Ontario by Stems Canada Inc. www.stemscanada.com

32 // July/August 2011

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2/23/11 8:35 AM

Rully is located in the value region of Côte Chalonnaise.

Stylistically, its wines are similar to Côte de Beaunes as there is a good amount of clay and limestone in the soil. In this wine, we have minerals, apples, spice, peach, honey and citrus flavours. Medium stature, crisp acid and a solid persistency make for a great drink.

91/

93/

Colaneri Paese Chardonnay 2009, Niagara ($34.95)

This is a stunning Niagara Chardonnay that tantalizes the olfactory senses with honey, figs, pineapple, bananas, spice and vanilla.

That same tsunami of sexiness is also found on the taste buds, as well as a streak of minerality, which runs through the middle.

Full bodied, there is excellent length and uplifting acidity. Drink until 2017. (ES)

90/ Domaine Roux Père et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet les Chaumes 1er Cru 2009, Burgundy ($38.95) A 1er cru for under $40! Buy it, it’s a no-brainer. Ripe, it is medium-bodied with vanilla, apple, citrus, minerals and stone fruit qualities. The length is excellent and it is ready to go.

Domaine Servin Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru 2009, Burgundy ($35)

Aromas of white peaches, anise, apples and lemon peel encapsulating a core of minerals. Medium bodied, the crisp acidity helps to carry the wonderful finale, while at the same time giving ageability. Drink until 2017.

The old adage that oysters and Chablis are the perfect match might seem clichéd, but I can think of no better partner for this wine.

On a local level, I haven’t yet experienced anything remotely approximating this level of complexity. But, then again, we are on a baby’s footing.”

Ontario might be young, and for now, comparisons might be necessary. But who knows. Maybe one day other fledgling wine countries will use Niagara-on-the-Lake, Beamsville Bench or PEC as reference points for their wines. Here is an encouraging thought: China’s wine industry is in its infancy and is destined to become a behemoth in the years and decades to come.

The following wines are a selection from the 2009 vintage, excellent for Pinot and Chardonnay in both Niagara and Burgundy. •

Luciano Puglisi, Ponview’s propietor and grape grower and Fred DiProfio, the winemaker

88/

Pondview Bella Terra Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2009, Niagara ($24)

There is a wonderful balance between the oak and the fruit; each works in tandem with the other. Mid-weight, the combination of apple, vanilla, spice and caramel linger on the palate. It is ready to drink, so enjoy it with chicken tikka masala or cheddar cheese.

reds 88/ Flatrock

Cellars The Rusty Shed Chardonnay 2009, Twenty Mile Bench ($24.95)

This extremely youthful Chardonnay is shy right now, but apples, citrus, spice, honey, toast and minerals have emerged. There is depth as well as very good length and a refreshing personality. Try it with oysters Rockefeller, or a salmon filet in a beurre blanc sauce.

92/

Château de la Tour Clos-Vougeot 2009, Burgundy ($149)

Yes, it might be pricey, but after all, it is Grand Cru Burgundy from an excellent vintage. There is an almost Californian edge to the wine, as it is quite ripe with plums, raisins, dark cherries, violets, smoke and earth. Full bodied, there is a round texture and superb length. It should easily last for a decade, if not more.

87/

Maison Champy Bourgogne Signature 2009, Burgundy ($19.95) It is usually hard to find a solid Pinot at the regional level in Burgundy. But this one delivers the goods. Without a doubt, the great growing conditions in 2009 helped. A personality of strawberries, cherries and earth rests on an easy drinking frame, with very good length.

88/ Tawse Grow-

er’s Blend Pinot Noir 2009, Niagara Peninsula ($32)

Sourced from multiple vineyards throughout the Peninsula and aged in 20% new barrels, the wine sings with a chorus of plums, black raspberries, violets¸ spice and vanilla. The palate is elegant, but still a little disjointed, so let it rest in the cellar until the end of the year, and then drink it until 2014.

88/ Colaneri Virtuoso Pinot Noir 2009, Niagara Peninsula ($34)

Virtuoso is a midweight Pinot with a complex nose of plums, toast, cherries, cocoa and earth.

Supple tannins and very good length round out the mix.

87/ Domaine Michel Juillot Bourgogne Rouge 2009, Burgundy ($23)

Here is another great little basic Bourgogne.

Raspberries, cherries, strawberries and plum are all present in this easy drinker.

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like

by Lynn Ogryzlo

Virtual and viral are two of the newest words in the wine industry. Like a rogue wave, the power of social media is washing over the wine and food world with incredible force.

Social media is a collection of websites, Twitter, Facebook, blogs and texts. Used individually, each has an impact and influence equal to that of a wine club, but used in concert, they create enormous virtual communities that can equal the size of a small country. And they are changing the way business is done in wine and food.

Suresh Doss is the founder of one of the most popular food and wine websites in Canada, Spotlight Toronto. He started the site eight years ago, focusing on sharing his food experiences in Toronto. The website works like a blog with comments, opinions and thoughts of a retrospective foodie.

Eight years ago, few people used social media to share personal thoughts and opinions on their life experiences. Traditionally it was companies using the web to get their marketing messages out there. Then there was a shift in consumer consciousness, and the search for a more trusted voice was on.

Food and wine lovers gravitated to Spotlight by the hundreds to hear Doss’s restaurant experiences, food trends and opinions on wines.

Today, Spotlight Toronto has grown to include much more than Toronto: it covers everywhere Doss and his team of eight bloggers and tweeters might be, from across Canada to throughout North

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this

America. To date, Spotlight registers just over 4,800 followers, so Doss and his virtual messages wield a bit of power with restaurants —and particularly with Ontario wineries. Now, if you’re thinking 4,800 is a small number, you’re right. But it’s the viral effect of 4,800 followers that makes Doss a sought after man.

It works like this. Doss will tweet information to his followers. They in turn share the tweet with their group of friends, who share among their group of friends, and it goes on until it becomes viral. No one really knows the exact number of people who are influenced, but Doss is a man who can easily fill a room with a few tweets.

At the Niagara Icewine Festival this year, Doss invited his followers to meet him for a drink at 5 pm at the Angel Inn in Niagara-on-the-Lake. He got about 20 positive replies, but when 5 o’clock came around, the people poured into the small bar – over 100 of them. They were people from all walks of life, from those just interested in learning about wine all the way up to John Peller himself (President and CEO, Peller Estate Winery).

The precise extent of Doss’s influence is unknown, but we do know his messages hit only those interested in wine and food. If that weren’t enough, the information is immediate.

The cumulative effect made marketing companies stand up and take notice. Invitations to food and wine events around the country began to pour into the Spotlight website, and Doss became a powerful man.

+ Follow Tidings at twitter.com/quenchbytidings

The power of social media hasn’t bypassed Michele Bosc.

Marketing Director of Château des Charmes Winery in Niagaraon-the-Lake, Michele is a steady tweeter who has gathered over 2,000 followers in one short year (@mbosc). Michele explains, “Twitter is like a microblog, like conversations at a cocktail party where others join in.” Michelle mostly tweets, although the website (chateaudescharmes.com) features a wine blog.

Even with only 2,000 followers, Michele was able to successfully launch a brand new line of wines, Generation 7, through her virtual and viral activities. When Generation 7 landed in the LCBO stores, Michele held a virtual party for the new wine on Twitter. She tweeted about a specific time and virtual place for the party. Wine lovers all bought a bottle of Generation 7 and at the agreed upon time, they sat and sipped while tweeting their conversations and opinions about the wine. There were over 100 wine lovers at the party.

If you’re wondering how to make sense of this many people all tweeting at once, Michele says it works by using a hashtag.

A hashtag is a link that strings all of the Twitter conversations together into a thread. Everyone is able to read and reply to all of the comments, making it a virtual conversation — or party.

The hashtag for Michele’s Generation 7 Twitter party was #gen7.

Everything anyone said during and after the party is still there, making the party and conversations a permanent record.

Social media vastly benefits the wine and food world. It connects like-minded people of varying levels of expertise together on an equal platform. It keeps restaurants and wine shops on their toes, as all experiences — bad, good and everything in between — are shared among thousands of tweeters. Like the oncepowerful restaurant critic at a big city newspaper with the ability to make or break a restaurant, tweeters now have similar power and much, much more.

Andrea Kisser-Quig is a Toronto-based wine tweeter who explains that “bloggers and tweeters are the new social promoters, friends to many and perceived ambassadors of good taste.”

Of course, not everyone will agree with whom they follow, but that just feeds more dialogue and interaction. And that’s always a good thing for the wine and food business. •

Suggestions Michele Bosc

Château des Charmes Winery Twitter handle: @MBosc chateaudescharmes.com

Suresh Doss

Spotlight Toronto spotlighttoronto.com

Andrea Kisser-Quig

unwinedconsultingservices.com

Marc Madness, Jonathan Wilson labeled.ca

Joel Wilcox writersblanc.ca

Some great wine blogs to get you started.

Basic Juice, basicjuice.blogs.com The Wine Case, winecase.ca John Schreiner on Wine, johnschreiner.blogspot.com Sommelier Scribbler, sommelierscribbler.wordpress.com Billy’s Best Bottles, billysbestbottles.com

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by Rick vansickle

Andrzej Lipinski is a firm believer

Lipinski first started making appassimento (air dried) style wines when he was the winemaker at The Foreign Affair Winery in Vineland, Ontario.

Their high-end, Amaroneinspired portfolio is made predominantly with 100 per cent or partially dried grapes, using sheds to dry the grapes as opposed to used tobacco kilns.

He was then hired to build a portfolio of wines for the new Colaneri winery. The collection’s goal was to represent the family’s Italian tradition by using the best of what Niagara offers in terms of grape varieties.

Almost all of Lipinski’s wines are made in the appassimento style, including a yet-to-be released line of sweet recioto-style white wines including Chenin Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc and Vidal. The process of drying grapes, in this case using modified tobacco kilns for varying amounts of time, concentrates flavours and gives the wines more body, complexity and concentration.

that Mother nature should not stand in the way of making a great wine. And he has a pretty good idea of how to make consistently ripe, complex and flavourful wines in Ontario no matter what the weather Delivers.

It’s no secret that Ontario winemakers are dealt a different set of circumstances each and every growing season: from cool and wet, to hot and dry, and everything in between. Making a consistently ripe red wine is simply impossible.

Lipinski, winemaker at Colaneri Estate Winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake, The Organized Crime Winery in Beamsville and the new Burning Kiln Winery in Norfolk County, is making a career out of drying grapes in old tobacco kilns to provide a ripeness and structure to wines that nature can’t always deliver.

“You can have consistent wines every year,” Lipinski says. “The idea is to never have green wines.”

36 // July/August 2011

“I want to be different, not like everyone else.

People want choice,” says Lipinski.

He got the idea for using old tobacco kilns after a visit to Simcoe County, formerly a major tobaccogrowing region in Ontario that has seen sales of tobacco products plummet in recent years. He modifies the decommissioned tobacco kilns for grapes and continuously experiments with the airflow and temperatures that optimize the concentration of grapes over days and weeks.

Lipinski uses different percentages of dried grapes for his wines and, in some cases, 100 per cent dried grapes for his most complex wines and sweet varieties.

His techniques have caught the eye of farmers in tobacco country, who are quickly turning tobacco crops into grape vines. Lipinski was hired as the winemaker at the new Burning Kiln winery, located just outside the official Lake Erie North Shore wine appellation, along the shores of Lake Erie in Norfolk County.

Burning Kiln, with 20 acres planted of Cabernet Franc, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Savagnin, is the latest addition in a growing list of

“Why weren’t we doing this a long time ag0,” says robert didomenico. tidingsmag.com

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wineries in the region that have formed the Ontario South Coast Wineries and Growers Association, which extends from St Thomas to Dunnville in Ontario.

Lipinski wants all the new wineries to use only tobacco kiln-dried grapes to make their wines, as their stamp on a regional style that will draw tourists and wine lovers to the area.

All but one (Riesling) of the Burning Kiln wines, which will be released to the public for the first time this spring, are made from dried grapes. Lipinski says the sandy soil in the region produces fruity, aromatic wines, but they lack complexity. The drying of the grapes provides the structure and concentration they need to be successful as a wine-producing region, he explains. “What we want is to make a name for the region on drying grapes. It needs to be different for them,” says Lipinski. “And it has to be everybody” using the technique.

Lipinski is not the only one jumping on the appassimento bandwagon. Other winemakers, such as Reif Estate winemaker Roberto DiDomenico, are tinkering with dried grapes.

DiDomenico purchased two refurbished kilns in 2009 and, after the first-ever production of Canadian raisins last year, experimented on a few different wines using kiln-dried grapes.

A rare and expensive totally Botrytis-affected sweet Riesling was made, and the winery has just released a brand new wine from Reif called The Magician, a blend of Shiraz and Pinot Noir, made from 20-25 per cent kiln-dried grapes.

“what we want is to make a name for the region on drying grapes. It needs to be different ...” states andrzej lipinski

The resulting wine, from the unspectacular 2009 vintage in Niagara, is a fuller-bodied, complex wine with concentration, black fruits and pepper. Characteristics DiDomenico says just weren’t possible without the kiln-dried fruit.

“Why weren’t we doing this a long time ago?”

38 // July/August 2011

he asks. “I think (kiln drying) is on the rise, and will create a lot of new and exciting wines.”

DiDomenico says that the kilns give the wines more flavour and intensity. “We have the tools; why not do it?”

He admits that it’s a steep learning curve trying to figure out how much fruit to dry and what varieties and vintages work best. He won’t make a follow up to his Riesling TBA or The Magician until he gauges public reaction to the new styles, but he’s planning on a lot more research with kilns and has some other kilndried wines in the works.

For DiDomenico and other winemakers in Ontario using dried grapes, the process evens the playing field for vintage variation. Most would agree that Ontario enjoys, on average, three really hot summers in a decade. Any help it can get from a method that’s been employed in Italian winemaking for centuries to make better, fullbodied and complex red wines is a good thing.

One winemaker who cautions against using appassimento-style winemaking as a cure-all for a weak vintage is Cave Spring Cellar’s Angelo Pavan. “We’re not trying to make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear,” he says, adding that you cannot get rid of “green” flavours simply by drying the grapes. They are only amplified.

Paven makes one appassimento-style wine from grapes he dries in a special drying shed.

The fruit is picked in a slightly under-ripe state to allow for extended drying without spoiling.

Strong, natural air flows at the site, allowing for a gradual desiccation of the grapes over a period of 60 to 120 days.

Perhaps Masi, the famous Veronese wine producer known for its appassimento wines, says it best in a report shared with other winemakers around the world: “Appassimento is a method that leads to an increase of quality by creating desirable attributes of structure and softness in a wine. Perhaps it is possible in the case of certain wines that would otherwise remain merely interesting rather than seductive and sought-after, to enhance their overall elegance, make them more attractive on the palate, and give them more complexity on the nose using this technique.” The report concluded, “Verona style is a force for change in the world.” •

92 Colaneri Sieme 2009

($40, late summer release)

This is the flagship red blend with Syrah (50% kiln dried), Merlot (30% kiln dried) and Cabernet Sauvignon (100% kiln dried). Sieme is Italian for “together,” and certainly apt for this wine. Barrel tasted, a gorgeous nose of roasted meats, black fruits and an array of spicy bits. It all works on the palate with a beautiful synergy of wild, dark fruits, smoke, cedar, spice and black licorice.

93 Reif Estate First Growth Totally Botrytis

Affected (TBA) Riesling 2009 ($50/200 ml)

This is the first white wine Klaus Reif and Roberto DiDomenico have made in the super elite First Growth series. Drying the noble rot grapes in the tobacco kiln draws water from the fruit, leaving behind ultra concentrated Riesling juice that’s then fermented into a sweet, intense and magical dessert wine with classic wild honey notes. Sublime on the nose with buckwheat honey, dried apricot, sweet tropical

92 Colaneri

fruits and marmalade notes. It’s viscous and wildly exotic in the mouth with lemon pie, honeycomb, tangerine and racy, zesty acidity to balance the sweetness.

Pinot Grigio “Cavallone” 2009 ($25)

Made from 20% dried grapes, barrel fermented and aged for 7 months and picked in late October. This is one amazing Pinot Grigio. Beautiful copper colour with expressive peach, melon, tangerine and pear fruits on the nose. It shows elegance and richness on the palate with apple, spice and stone fruits all touched by vanilla and honey. Wow.

89 Colaneri Gewürztra-

miner “Mistera” 2009 ($25)

Made from 50% dried grapes and barrel fermented and aged for 7 months. The nose is all about rose petals, grapefruit and lychee to go with exotic spices and subtle wild honey. It’s only slightly off-dry on the palate with citrus, spice and lychee.

93 Colaneri Pinot Grigio

Recioto 2010 ($30/375 ml, released in late fall)

These recioto-style sweet wines, which will be made instead of Icewine, were tasted out of barrel. They are super-sweet, viscous wines made from Chenin Blanc, Vidal, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürztraminer, and are unlike anything else being done in Niagara. The Pinot Grigio is a masterpiece with honey sweetened peach, melon, and citrus aromas that are viscous and oily on the palate with super-ripe fruits, caramel and baked brown sugar notes.

92 Cave Spring Cellars La Penna 2007 ($35)

This is Cave Spring’s only appassimento-style wine made at the winery. Winemaker Angelo Pavan used drying racks in a naturally ventilated barn high up on the Beamsville Bench. This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is the class of the La Pennas, a gorgeous wine with a fine nose of cherry-kirsch, red plum, prunes, sweet spice and vanilla. Even in its youth this wine explodes with flavours on the palate — from sweet red fruits to roasted coffee bean, chocolate and layers of spice and toasty oak all coming in wave after wave. Built for the long haul in the cellar.

87 Reif Estate Winery The Magician 2009 ($20)

Winemaker Roberto DiDomenico used 70% Syrah and 30% Pinot Noir for this unusual blend. Both varieties were vinified separately, with 30% of the fruit kiln dried. The nose shows sweet raspberry, cherry, oak and spice. It shows surprising heft on the palate for a 2009, with black fruits, cherry-raspberry notes, black pepper, earth and soft tannins.

86 Burning Kiln Cabernet

Franc 2010 ($23, released in May at the winery)

The first wines from this South Coast winery will be released in May, and Tidings got a preview tasting of this Cab Franc.

A lovely nose of cherry, cedar, smoke and spice. Nice depth of flavour to go with smoky fruits, plum, tobacco and a touch of roasted herbs on the finish.

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must try

by john lee

//night out

It’s 7 pm Thursday at Vancouver’s candlelit Alibi Room and it’s time to start the weekend early. Once a humdrum cocktail joint, this welcoming, exposed brick bar reinvented itself as the city’s best craft beer tavern a few years back — hence tonight’s crowd of plaid-shirted hipsters and old-school ale fans guzzling from the 44 taps lining the counter like crooked teeth.

“We’ve got some crazy stuff here,” chuckles co-owner Nigel Springthorpe, pouring me a four-sample flight that includes sweet Noble Pig Scotch Ale and java-esque Red Truck Bock. “My tastes have developed slowly over the years, but the Vancouver craft beer scene has really exploded over the last 12 months.”

And its not just about exotic imports: more than half of Springthorpe’s beers — from Swans’ Coconut Porter to Howe Sound’s King Heffy — are made in British Columbia, where over 30 microbreweries have popped up in the past decade or so. It’s a frothy surge that made 2010’s first Vancouver Craft Beer Week an instant hit, with 2011’s event an even bigger smash.

“A few years ago, the scene was catering to a niche market of beer geeks,” says Beer Week co-founder Chris Bjerrisgaard.

“But alongside the local food movement, there was a sudden massive interest in artisanal BC beer. We now have the country’s best regional brewing scene outside Quebec — and we’re certainly Canada’s best at North American-style beer.”

I witness this swelling popularity on Thursday night at downtown’s equally bustling Railway Club. In an unassuming upstairs location above a 7-11, Vancouver’s best trad boozer ef-

40 // July/August 2011

fortlessly mixes its student and office worker regulars. With a laid-back ambiance of dinged wooden tables and scuffed carpets — plus a train set trundling around the ceiling — the bar offers 20 or so mostly BC drafts.

Thirstily perusing a selection including Driftwood’s Farmhand Ale, R&B’s Raven Cream Ale and Crannóg’s near-legendary Back Hand of God Stout — a smooth, coffee-like nectar that warms the rainiest of Vancouver days — I eventually seize on a couple of tipples from arguably the region’s most celebrated beer maker.

Central City Brewing was named the country’s best producer at last year’s Canadian Brewing Awards. But the proof is in the quaffing, so I chase a starter glass of malty, copper-coloured Red Racer ESB with a savour-worthy pint of IPA. It’s a heady, floral beer with a lip-puckering hoppiness.

“IPA is the Pacific Northwest’s most popular beer style and ours is very hop-forward,” says Central City brewmaster Gary Lohin. “If I go to any brewery or brewpub, I have to try their IPA before I try anything else,” he adds.

Back on Vancouver’s thirst-slaking beer trail the next night, I take the SkyTrain transit line to Commercial Drive. A few steps from the station, St Augustine’s looks like a mainstream sports bar from the outside. But befitting a joint named for the patron saint of beer makers, it offers Vancouver’s largest draft microbrew selection from dozens of shiny chrome taps.

The small-print menu here includes many rare-for-Canada US drafts from the likes of Rogue, Lagunitas and Eel River.

Focusing on BC, I enlist the help of my chatty server to choose a four-sample taster that includes Storm Brewing’s velvety Highland Scottish Ale — made just a few blocks away — and Howe Sound’s lip-smacking Rail Ale Nut Brown.

But the original brewery on Granville Island — a popular waterfront district that’s home to artist studios and a public market — still operates. And it’s where brewmaster Vern Lambourne produces an eclectic array of limited release beers.

Rolling into his sunny Taproom bar on Saturday afternoon, I peruse the selection. The company’s mainstream brands are all here plus the current seasonal special: a lightly malted Irish Red that slides down perfectly.

“We make eight or nine limited releases every year — I’m just about to start the Ginger Beer, which is always a top-seller,” says Lambourne. “I remember a few years ago when craft beer had very little appeal in Vancouver. Now everyone seems to be interested in trying new flavours.”

If you go

Alibi Room (www.alibi.ca) is at 157 Alexander Street Railway Club (www.therailwayclub.com) is at 579 Dunsmuir Street St Augustine’s (www.staugustinesvancouver.com) is at 2360 Commercial Drive Steamworks (www.steamworks.com) is at 375 Water Street Granville Island Brewing Taproom (www.gib.ca) is at 1441 Cartwright Street The Whip (www.thewhiprestaurant.com) is at 209 East 6th Avenue

Sweet

Heresy the art of by Matthew sullivan pairing fine wine and fast food “Location, location, location” is what my mother, a former real estate agent, drilled into my head when I was looking to buy my first house. I took her advice. In an unkempt neighbourhood, Toronto’s two best Italian sandwich shops, California Sandwiches and San Francesco Sandwiches, face off against each other at a distance of about 100 paces. I bought my new home because it is precisely equidistant between these restaurants and their veal. There are no parks, few trees and paved lawns, but as far as I’m concerned, it’s the most valuable intersection in the city.

I have many vices, but the only one that actually shames me is my adoration of fast food. Veal sandwiches, cheeseburgers, chicken nuggets and smoked meat: I will eat them all. Every consideration of ethical eating or longevity vaporizes in the face of extra bacon for 99 cents. Luckily, there is one compunction that keeps me from ingesting lethal quantities of saturated fats: I must drink wine with my fast food. Quite simply, I find the combination too delicious to miss. Unfortunately, this is a match that you won’t read about in most of the literature on food-wine pairings. No one tells you how to pair a wine with a poutine. Until now.

Grabbing a cheap bottle of Yellow Tail Chardonnay ($10.95) or Fuzion Shiraz Malbec ($7.75) may seem like a natural choice when dining on wax paper, but in fact such wines are ill suited to the cuisine. Fortunately, the key to matching wine with fast food is simple, and it’s always the same, no matter what grubbery you’re about to consume.

That’s because all junk food depends on three essential ingredients: salt, grease and fat.

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Sodium is the first consideration.

It has a powerful effect on the way we taste wine by exaggerating our sensitivity to tannins. Thus, fast food tends to make young, tannic wines taste clunky.

Not only that, but astringent tannins are moderated by other bitter flavours in the accompanying food, like charred meat, arugula or black pepper — exactly the sort of flavours that are rare in fast foods, which instead tend to be sweetened by condiments and additives.

Salt also gives high alcohol wines an even meaner burn. If this saltiness is combined with hot spices (like those in tacos or burritos), then the alcoholic heat becomes unbearable. For this reason, when dining Chez McDonalds, I usually avoid heavy wines like Aussie Shirazes. Frankly, a Big Mac requires more subtlety.

The fatty, greasy nature of fast food also has potent implications. The primary way to cut through all this oil and keep the meal refreshing is to choose wines that are highly acidic. On the other hand, wines that are low in acidity (like many New World reds and overoaked Chardonnays) will seem flaccid when paired with fried food.

42 // July/August 2011

Tabulate all these considerations and a counterintuitive picture arises; the ideal red wine to match with fast food will be made in an Old World style with low alcohol, moderate fruit and lots of acidity.

It should have enough guts to stand up to sugary condiments, which means that Pinot Noir won’t be suitable. Yet it should still be made of softer grapes (like Grenache or Sangiovese), or it should be well aged so that the tannins are pliant.

For red meat, I usually turn to a wellmade bottle from the South of France, like the Mas des Bressades 2009 “Cuvée Tradition” ($14.95). Mas des Bressades is an outstanding and consistent producer, and their Cuvée Tradition, a

blend of Syrah and Grenache, has lively blackberry flavour spiked with thyme, tea and lavender. Another good choice is the Sella & Mosca 2006 Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva ($14.95). This surprisingly complex Grenache marries earthy, mature aromas to the freshness of tart cherries. Both wines are light bodied, but they have a special intensity that can stand up to a messy cheeseburger or a meatball sandwich.

I recommend sparkling wine for deep fried food like fish & chips. The carbonation slices through the oily batter and helps expose the underlying flavour of the fish. A little residual sugar in the wine can also offset the taste of salt, which makes off-dry sparklers like Prosecco ideal.

photo: edward pond

What do people drink at Caplansky’s Delicatessen, “Mainly beer, but we sell a surprising amount of wine,” says Zane Caplansky.

WineAcces-Final.pdf 1 11/05/2011 08:27:38 a.m.

However, if you’re serving Kentucky Fried Chicken to your dinner guests, an effervescent Italian bubbly might not be substantial enough. To tackle all eleven herbs and spices, it’s best to select something heavier like a sparkling wine made from Pinot Noir grapes. For example, Chandon’s Blanc de Noirs Sparkling Wine from California ($24.95) is fantastic value for a sparkler made in the traditional method — with its elegant balance of tropical fruit, acidity and spice, it is an ideal accompaniment to even the deadliest of meals.

Of course, not every fast food meal has to be a crime against nature. More and more restaurateurs have started approaching street food with a sense of purity usually reserved for fine dining.

“I would not categorize it as ‘gourmet’ fast food, simply because I don’t want it to sound like my food is out of reach,” Nick auf der Mauer told me. “I like to call it ‘good food, done fast’. You can call it a trend, but I think it’s here to stay.”

I hope Nick is here to stay. He just opened up Porchetta and Co., a shop dedicated almost exclusively to making sandwiches from sliced porchetta.

Porchetta is a traditional Italian roast made from a pork shoulder wrapped in prosciutto and re-wrapped in cured pork belly. Such a recipe argues strongly for the existence of a benevolent deity.

Nick’s meat is as textured, creamy and succulent as any I’ve tasted.

A few blocks away from Porchetta and Co. is another modern restaurant with a traditional feel, Caplansky’s Deli-

catessen. Caplansky’s opens a door to the artisanal past of Jewish delis, when even the mustard was handcrafted.

His smoked meat is absurdly tasty — a stratified mound of spice, hickory, and molten fat. I asked the proprietor, Zane Caplansky, what people drink at his restaurant.

“Mainly beer, but we sell a surprising amount of wine,” he replied. “We serve Peninsula Ridge Cabernet and Sauvignon Blanc. My guiding philosophy is that if I don’t make it from scratch here in house then I’ll find whoever does it the same way. That is: handmade, homemade, the old fashioned way.”

When dining on something as good as porchetta or smoked meat, don’t hold back. I usually select a well-aged Rioja, like the recently released Don Jacobo 1995 Gran Reserva ($27.95). The crisp cherry fruit amplifies the complex flavours in the meat, while the rich protein draws out the Rioja’s mellow undertones of lanolin, milk chocolate and cedar. The harmony between the two enters the nervous system like a narcotic.

My friends laugh at me for drinking Crémant de Bordeaux with a 6-pack of Chicken McNuggets. What they don’t understand is that fast food doesn’t have to be a thoughtless consumption of empty calories. By opening a bottle of wine, I can turn any meal into a ritual. After all, even the lowliest dish of poutine can be fulfilling, depending on your approach.

Of course, I have to live every moment to its fullest — with the kind of food I eat, I could die any moment. •

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For the longest time, I believed my mom’s story about nail soup. Maybe I still do. I mean, why not? It rang with details of authenticity, even if every time she told it, the notes of taste, texture and flavour would bubble dreamily from hot to cold, sweet to sour, brothy to big — and more.

Why? Because that was the magic of always anything-and-everything delicious nail soup.

She told me that she learned about nail soup one summer Monday when she was hanging sheets on a backyard line, locking them in place with big wooden pegs, as nought but a soft zephyr blew in from the south. Enough to dry sheets, towels and knickers in a minute.

As sometimes happens in small country towns, where things used to be laid back and easy, a stranger came into the yard that Monday, a friendly-faced, hard-done-by elderly gentleman who, after extending compliments to mother and her wash, asked if he might exchange an hour of work around the garden for a lunch — nothing more than a bowl of soup. And

44 // July/August 2011

because things rarely went awry in those small country towns, she thought that was a pretty good offer, and gave him a shovel.

He smiled and thanked her, but before he began, he dipped his hand into a pocket, and produced a shiny four-inch nail. “This,” he said, “is a magic nail. And with it, I can make the finest soup you’ve ever tasted ... If you could take it inside and cover it in a pot filled with six cups of water, I’d be most grateful.”

Mother took the nail and filled the pot with water, and the stranger went to work. Fifteen minutes later, he called into the kitchen: “Missus. Would you happen to have a nice big onion

by Duncan Holmes you could cut up and throw into the pot? It will make the magic happen even better. And a carrot or two will help. So will a leg or diced breast of chicken. Salt and pepper too. And maybe a bay leaf, and some fresh herbs right from the garden.

Turn on the heat under the pot and let it boil away while you finish hanging the washing.”

And all the while, the stranger dug away in the garden.

As my mother told it, there were many other things that went into the nail soup that washday Monday. Special seasonings from the back of the cupboard, a splash or two of white wine, some soy, even fresh noodles. They all bubbled together, the four-inch nail clanking away against the bottom of the pot.

An hour later, the stranger looked at the newly dug garden, then at his watch. “Reckon the soup’s ready,” he said. As my mother told it, he ate two big bowls of nail soup, along with four slices of bread loaded with butter. When he had finished, he thanked her, and said: “Now I’ll be on my way. And if you don’t mind, I’ll take my nail.”

As she told it, by the time she had taken the wash from the line and folded it all fresh-smelling and nice into her wicker basket, the stranger had gone. Down the hill, around the corner by the church, and away on the soft summer wind.

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Serves 4-6

I’ve had this recipe around since the days we used to dig for clams on the generous beaches of British Columbia’s Gulf Islands, letting them clean themselves overnight in a pot of oats. You may be doing the same thing where you are; or, if not, you’ll have access to a store where you can pick them up in a can. I won’t get involved in the everlasting white thick vs. red thin chowder argument. Both are great!

250 g bacon, diced Oil, to taste 2 large onions, diced 4 stalks celery, diced Pepper Sage Rosemary Thyme Nutmeg 2 cans baby clams 1 can clam nectar 3 cups water 4 new potatoes, unpeeled, less than bite-sized Flour, butter, and cream for a thickening roux

1. In a large pot, fry the bacon over

medium heat until less than crisp. Pour off most of the fat. Add a splash or two of oil and simmer the onion, celery, herbs and spices.

Add the clams, the nectar and water.

2. Add potatoes, bring to boil, them simmer over low heat for an hour or so.

3. Make the roux in a pan and add to the chowder. Simmer another hour. For extra whitening and body, you may wish to add some cream, milk powder and white wine. …… Serve with a hearty bread and some white wine.

46 // July/August 2011

Serves 6

A variation on the traditional classic, I borrowed this one from 400 Best-Ever Soups (Hermes House). Cold, fresh tastes for a summertime lunch. (And the story about the restaurant patron who called the waiter to complain that his gazpacho was freezing cold is not true!)

2 slices day-old white bread, cubed 600 ml chilled water 1 kg fresh tomatoes 1 cucumber 1 red bell pepper, halved, seeded and chopped 1 fresh green chilli, seeded and chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped 30 ml extra virgin olive oil Juice of 1 lime and 1 lemon A few drops Tabasco sauce Salt and ground black pepper 8 ice cubes to garnish Handful of basil leaves, to garnish

for the croutons 2 slices day-old bread, crusts removed 1 garlic clove, halved 15 ml olive oil

for the avocado salsa 1 ripe avocado 5 ml lemon juice 2.5 cm-piece cucumber, diced ½ red chilli, seeded and finely chopped

1. Place the bread in a large bowl and pour 150 ml of the water over it. Soak for 5

minutes. Meanwhile, place the tomatoes in a bowl and cover with boiling water.

Leave for 30 seconds, then cool and remove skins and seeds; finely chop the flesh.

2. Thinly peel the cucumber, cut in half lengthways and scoop out the seeds.

Discard the inner part and chop the flesh.

3. Place the bread, tomatoes, cucumber, red bell pepper, chilli, garlic, olive oil, citrus juices and Tabasco in a food processor with the remaining 450 ml chilled water and blend until well combined, but still chunky.

4. Season to taste with salt and pepper and chill for 2 to 3 hours.

5. To make the croutons, rub the slices of bread with the garlic clove, cut into cubes and place in a plastic bag with the olive oil. Seal the bag and shake until the cubes are coated. Heat a large, non-stick pan and fry the croutons over medium heat until crisp and golden.

6. Just before serving, make the avocado salsa. Halve the avocado, remove the pit, peel and dice. Toss in the lemon juice to prevent browning, then place in a serving bowl and add the cucumber and chilli. Mix well.

7. Ladle the soup into four chilled bowls and add a couple of ice cubes to each.

Top each portion with a good spoonful of the salsa. Garnish with the basil and sprinkle the croutons over the salsa. …… Champagne before you begin.

Serves 6

fish stock

You may have noticed in your travels that hot tastes often go with a hot climate; that when summer comes, we’re quite happy to splash on the fiery sauces, knowing that the sweating that follows — especially when there’s a cool breeze beneath the palm trees — will help to cool us down. I went to my Bangkok connection for this soup, a recipe that will have four of you breathing chilli fire.

Make from scratch — see below — or purchase canned at an Asian market.

500 g uncooked prawns 2 small red chillies, chopped 1 tbsp sliced fresh lemongrass 1 tsp grated fresh ginger 2 tsp fish sauce 2 tsp light soy sauce 1 tbsp lime juice 2 tsp sugar 4 shallots, chopped 425 g can whole straw mushrooms, rinsed and drained

AGENCE DE VOYAGES W. H. HENRY INC.

TRAVEL AGENTS

500 g white fish bones 2 1/2 litres water 2 stems lemongrass, chopped 1 small red chilli, halved 4 dried Kaffir lime leaves (available at an Asian market) 3 pieces dried galangal (available at an Asian market)

1. To make the stock, combine all

ingredients in a pan, bring to a boil, simmer covered for 20 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh, cover, and refrigerate overnight.

2. To make the soup, shell prawns, leaving tails intact. Measure 6 cups stock into a pan. Add prawns, chillies, lemongrass, ginger, sauces, juice, sugar, shallots and mushrooms.

3. Bring to a boil and simmer uncovered until prawns are tender. …… Serve with a frosty glass of Singha beer.

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//the mav notes 90 Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Riesling 2008, Niagara ($30)

HOP’s top-tier Riesling is one for those who are purists of the grape.

No tutti-frutti wine here. This is a pure expression of terroir — lime, petrol and minerals all built on bright acid. Dry, it is a perfect match with food. My preference would be with choucroute garnie or schnitzel with myriad pickled vegetables. (ES)

90 JoieFarm A Noble Blend 2010, Okanagan ($24)

Inspired by “Edelzwicker” and “Gentil” blends of Alsace, this year’s version kicks up the Riesling (38%) proportion to balance the Gewürztraminer (43%), Pinot Auxerrois (14%) and Pinot Gris (5%). Fresh, fragrant aromas and flavours of honeysuckle, grapefruit, tropical fruit and lingering mango.

The lively acidity balances the honeyed sweetness and rich, intenselyfruity mid-palate. Perfect with Asian-style pork or duck dishes. (HH)

90 Benjamin Bridge Nova 7 2010, Nova Scotia ($24.99)

Nova Scotia’s unique, lightly spritzy aromatic crowd pleaser shows floral and tropical fruit character with a discernable Muscat note on the nose.

Flavours though, suggest ripe yellow fruit with apricot, pear and a hint of pineapple. Lively off-dry finish offers subtle elements of mineral, honey and refreshing acidity. (SW)

88 Wild Goose Riesling 2009, Okanagan ($19)

Mature 25-year-old Okanagan Falls vines unleash delightful aromatics, vibrant fruit character and well-structured minerality. Papaya, pineapple and tropical spice aromas precede tangy flavours of green apple and lemon-lime.

Hints of honey linger long. Off-dry style is very appetizing with canapés. (HH)

88 Blomidon Estate Winery Reserve l’Acadie Blanc 2009, Nova Scotia ($19.95)

Citrus on the nose has a mellow, lightly buttery overtone with a suggestion of banana. Crisply fresh citrus flavours are backed by brisk acidity and good minerality with mellow soft oaky influence reappearing on the finish. (SW)

88 Cornerstone Riesling Reserve Barrel Aged, Niagara ($20) Barrel aging has given this wine a slightly nutty edge, which combines nicely with peach jam, minerals, lime and flowers. There is a touch of sweetness, very good length and just the right amount of freshness. (ES)

89 Colaneri Cavallone Pinot Grigio 2009, Niagara ($25)

20% of the grapes were dried (appassimento) to make this wine, making for a full bodied and oily Grigio — more along the lines of an Alsatian Pinot Gris. Peach, honey flowers and baked apple are its tagline. It may not be everyone’s taste, but it is undeniably a solid bottle of individual wine. (ES)

48 // July/August 2011

90 Malivoire Gewürztraminer 2009, Beamsville Bench ($24.95) Great varietal character here; one of the best Gewürz from Ontario I’ve tasted; medium straw colour with a nose of lychee and rose petals; off-dry, floral and spicy. (TA)

Linking

by Robert Hausner

For Canadians seeking new sources of culinary pride, here’s a uniquely interesting tale. A hockey player turned master sausagemaker is by any measure a remarkable Canadian transition.

In the mid-1960s, Jean Cusson, a talented hockey player and a member of the Canadian national team, capitalized on his athletic gift and became a professional, playing in Switzerland for 15 years.

But recognizing that hockey careers have a limited shelf life, he and his brother consulted about a new business they could “import” from Europe and open in Montreal. When it came to food, it was obvious that traditional immigrant consumers from Europe, typical members of the Canadian melting pot, wanted food they had enjoyed back home. And from every country on the continent, that included sausages. People in Montreal’s ethnic enclaves always sought out local butchers that sold products from “the old country,” so the Polish population would search for a transplanted butcher from Warsaw selling kielbasa and the North African Arab population would seek its authentic merguez, just as the French looked to leur boucher who offered Toulouse, and new Canadians from Germany wanted their Weiswurst and Knackwurst. So the brothers Cusson

opened a shop in the ethnic area of Côte des Neiges, designed to appeal to all. But, they were neither “authentic” nor specialists. Expressed kindly: the shop was considerably less than a success.

Ah, but here’s the Horatio Alger story.

Herein lies the tale of how initial failure (“obstacle” sounds better!) coupled with entrepreneurial spirit, a dose of reflection and a large helping of Canadian tenacity has led to the most exciting and fascinating range of truly gourmet sausages in Canada. And, it’s more proof of how Canadians in all areas of the culinary world are evolving their own unique (and certainly exciting) culinary products. William J. Walter, master sausage makers, are a Canadian phenomenon.

The master stroke that led to the Cusson brothers runaway success, was their choice to circumvent the traditional ageold market recipes. They tried again and opened a shop, called the William J. Walter Company in the predominantly French Canadian area of Laval, Quebec’s second largest city, where there were no precon-

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Jean Cusson and his team at the Marche 440

ceived notions of what to buy. The locals were open to new tastes, and second and third generations of intermarriage led to households that were open to something new. Who would have thought of mixing pork with pure honey and garlic? Three basics, all sourced locally. Or a fruit-flavoured variety, where pork is married with zest of orange, a touch of juice, a smidge of garlic and freshly-grated ginger? William J. Walter, developing into a master sausage maker, was only getting warmed up. Ah yes, warm: even spicy, perhaps? Coarsely ground lamb with homemade harissa and garlic, or Louisiana-style by adding Cajun spices and a dot of jalapeños.

Success began to breed success, and with French Canadian taste in mind veal and pork were mixed with savoury mild cheddar and bacon, and a deer and pork mixture with red wine and garlic became an instant success.

Eventually they began to experiment with new recipes, inserting vegetables

50 // July/August 2011

such as fresh spinach and mild curry with fresh white mushrooms, and the inevitable touch of garlic. Even more fruit-enhanced sausage recipes emerged, where a mixture of apples and cranberry were flavour-enhanced with a soupçon of cinnamon. Of course, all the traditional sausage varieties are available, and are among the most popular. But it’s the inspiration for new varieties that makes this so exciting.

Once the creative juices start running, if you’ll accept a pun, Cusson recognized that there were large segments of the population that had aversions (or health limits) to his creative gourmet range. The most obvious is that many people do not eat pork. But others are lactose intolerant or cannot eat sausages that commonly use breadcrumbs as a binder because of an allergy to gluten.

So with imagination undiminished, the William J. Walter Company’s test kitchens broadened the choices to include chicken with tarragon, veal with basil and

lamb sausages mixed with mint, each with its unique mixture. Garlic averse? There are choices that even include pork mixed with Quebec maple syrup and crushed pecans. The list goes on.

The secret for this astonishing expansion in 25 years is the recognition that while everyone in Canada has heritage “from the old country,” the second and third generation of every ethnic group lose their hard ties to most things, including food, and are open and indeed willing and excited to try new tastes.

In the past, the generally accepted idea of sausages were those of mega-producers like Maple Leaf Foods, who offer prepackaged products found in every supermarket. In almost all cases, you have to buy three, four or five in a package. Wouldn’t it be nice, instead, to go to a shop where you can speak to a trained salesperson who can offer expertise so you can try different varieties, buying one sausage at a time from 10 to 20 different choices? This is a food development that every Canadian can be proud of. The sources are as wide as the selection, with shops in Montreal’s two major markets the Atwater and Jean Talon, and another dozen shops across each sector in the Montreal area, extending to the Laurentian Mountains.

So keeping it all simple, what’s the ideal cooking method? There are, of course, a few different methods to cook sausages, but the master sausage maker suggests the best technique is the simple one; place your favourite sausage in water that’s barely bubbling, or even in a beef stock, perhaps with a little wine added. Heat it, but never let it boil. By keeping the temperature at just about the boiling point, barely quivering, the result gives you the juiciest flavour and the maximum taste.

Here are the steps:

1. In a pot or casserole, bring your

liquid just to the point of boiling. Make sure there’s enough for the sausages to be fully covered.

2. Once the liquid has reached the boiling point, reduce the heat to medium and plunge the sausages without piercing or cutting. It is important that they remain whole.

3. Let the liquid do its work for about 10 to 12 minutes.

4. Remove the sausages from the liquid.

5. To finish, either put them in a lightly oiled pan on medium heat to bring out that nice brown colour, or grill them on the barbecue, again without piercing or cutting, which also provides the firm crunchy texture on the outside. Minimal effort, maximum taste.

Cooking tip:

To remember which sausages you like more than others, since you’re likely to buy one each of different styles, add a toothpick into your number one choice, two toothpicks for number two, and so on. You can do this just before cooking the sausages and become a true sausage taster.

pasta and sausage à la st bruno Serves 6

1 lb of Italian sausage (or similar) 3 handfuls of fresh linguini (pepper or basil if possible) A dollop of olive oil 1 medium package of cherry tomatoes 2 cloves of garlic, crushed or minced 3 cups of roquette (arugula) or fresh baby spinach Freshly ground pepper and salt Grated or finely sliced Parmesan cheese

1. Boil the sausages for 8 minutes and

cut into small slices. Cook the pasta 5 minutes in rolling boiling salted water.

Drain without rinsing.

2. At the same time heat the oil in a saucepan, and add the sliced sausages and cherry tomatoes for about 5 minutes

on high heat. Add the garlic and roquette or spinach and cook for 1 more minute.

3. Add the pasta to the mixture and salt and pepper to taste.

4. Before serving, add a splash of oil and dress with finely sliced Parmesan.

sicilian tagliatelle carbonara after inspiration by jamie oliver Serves 6

4 Italian Sausages (2 spicy and 2 mild) Extra virgin olive oil 4 slices of thick pancetta, broken into small pieces 450 g tagliatelle 4 egg yolks 100 ml of 35% cream 100 g Parmigiano Reggiano cheese (grated) 1 zest of lemon (grated yellow peel only) 1 bunch of parsley, finely chopped

1. With a sharp knife, cut and remove

the skin of the sausages. Remove the meat and roll into small balls.

2. In a big frying pan, heat a little olive oil and add the sausage balls and cook until golden. Add the pancetta and cook for a few minutes until browning, 3. Meanwhile in a big pot, bring salted water (about 2 L) to a boil and add pasta.

Do not add oil to the water.

4. In a big bowl mix the egg yolks, cream, half of the cheese, and all the grated lemon peel and parsley.

5. When the pasta is cooked, drain though a strainer. Reserve a glass of cooking water, add the tagliatelle into the egg mixture with the cooked sausage meat and mix thoroughly. The eggs will be cooked by the heat of the pasta. The sauce should be smooth and velvety in texture. If the pasta is too thick and viscous, add a little more cooking water.

6. Sprinkle the rest of the cheese and a splash of (preferably Sicilian) olive oil. …… At the end, why not pair with a glass of Sicilian red wine? •

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davine

by gurvinder Bhatia

//the craft in it

Before I was a wine lover, I was (and still am) a beer lover. I drank a lot of beer while going to university, and while the large commercial breweries dominated the market, a couple of small (at the time) microbreweries (Granville Island and Big Rock) began producing beers that stepped outside the flavour box and introduced many western Canadians to unique, handcrafted brews.

But it wasn’t until I went to grad school in the States (the summer class in Europe helped too) that I really got into the craft beer scene. Craft beer producers are united by a philosophy to produce unique, flavourful handcrafted brews. Small breweries such as Rogue, Pike, Goose Island, Brooklyn and, a little later, Dogfish Head were providing many sought-after options to the mass-produced generic offerings of brewing giants Miller, Coors & Anheuser-Busch.

Even the giants have forayed into the craft beer market by either acquisition (Granville Island is now a Molson property and Goose Island part of Anheuser-Busch) or producing faux craft beers (the motivation for Molson introducing Rickard’s Red, which many sceptics believe is simply Molson Canadian with food colouring).

There are also obvious parallels between craft beers and well made, regionally diverse wines. Looking back, it is drinking these craft brews that allowed me to appreciate unique, handcrafted wines that have a sense of place.

Currently, while the big breweries are dealing with excess capacities, craft beer producers are working overtime to meet demand. It is the only segment of the beer market that is grow-

52 // July/August 2011

ing. This is clearly evident by the number of restaurants, bars and retailers whose craft beer selections continue to grow while listings and shelf placements for the big boys continue to shrink.

Chefs are creating special dishes to pair with craft beers and specialty beer dinners are becoming as common as wine dinners.

And while the craft beer revolution is unquestionably being lead by the Americans, Canadian craft brewers are more than holding their own and receiving international recognition for their quality and innovative brews. Today is a great time to be a beer lover. The list of Canadian craft breweries that follows is a big reason why.

Dieu du Ciel

This innovative Quebec brewery has captivated the palates of beer drinkers with their unique, flavourful, and extremely well balanced brews. The Aphrodisiaque ($21.99/6 pk) cocoa and vanilla stout is a black ale whose flavours of vanilla, coffee, roasted malt and cocoa integrate perfectly to create a beer that is unique, yet very approachable. The Rosée d’Hibiscus ($18.99/6 pk) is a floral wheat beer that is refreshing and clean with a long, uplifting finish, while the Dernière Volonté ($18.99/6 pk) is a delicious blond Abbey-style beer with robust flavours of hops, spice and malt. The unique Route des Épices (French for “spice route”) is a rye beer brewed with both black and green peppercorns and is made to go with food, so bring on the stinky cheeses and spicy dishes. There are a number of other delicious and interesting offerings from this producer.

Charlevoix

Another great Quebec craft brewery, Charlevoix produces Belgian-inspired beers under their Dominus Vobiscum line and UK-inspired beers under their La Vache Folle line. The latter line’s tasty ESB ($7/500 ml) has aromas of floral hops and sweet malt with a big hoppy flavour but still bright and refreshing.

The Imperial Milk Stout ($6.50/500 ml) is black in colour with an attractive beige head, aromas of roasted malt, coffee and dark chocolate with a medium body and full flavours that aren’t heavy, but instead there is a creamy drinkability with a freshness and a hint of sweetness on the finish. Very tasty.

Garrison

Nova Scotia’s first craft brewery has made waves with its year-round Imperial IPA ($5.50/500 ml) which the brewery claims is the hoppiest beer in Atlantic Canada ... and it is very hoppy with full flavours, a touch of caramel and just the right amount of bitterness on the finish. The brewery produces a number of delicious seasonal brews including their Sugar Moon Maple ($5.50/500 ml) made with Nova Scotia maple syrup and the incredibly dark yet smooth Baltic Porter ($7.25/500 ml) with its rich caramel, date and deep molasses flavours.

Les Trois Mousquetaires

I’ve only had the opportunity to taste a couple of this Quebec craft brewer’s beers, but what I’ve tasted makes me want to explore further. The Imperial Weizen ($13.50/750 ml) has aromas of citrus with flavours of citrus, spice, hops and a hint of sweetness. Every taste begs another. The German influenced Sticke Alt ($13.50/750 ml) is deep amber with a creamy head, full body, with rich notes of molasses and bitterness from the hops. I am looking forward to experiencing many more brews from this producer. clockwise Caroline Bandulet, Marketing Director, Frédérick Tremblay, President, Nicolas Marrant, Head Brewer at Charlevoix Garrison Brewmaster, Daniel Girard

Alley Kat

Alley Kat is the longest running microbrewery in Edmonton and the fourth oldest brewery in Alberta. Its regular lineup includes Alberta’s first fruit beer, Aprikat ($13.99/6 pk), made with Okanagan apricot concentrate; the Amber ($13.99/6 pk) a delicious brown ale with hints of chocolate, caramel and just the right amount of bitterness; and the easy drinking, organic Charlie Flint lager ($13.99/6 pk). Alley Kat does a number of seasonal and specialty brews including custom beers for restaurants. They also have followed the lead of several American craft breweries by holding release parties for their cask-conditioned brews.

Amber’s Brewing

After a slow start, Amber’s has been making inroads into the Edmonton beer scene with its Australian Mountain Pepper Berry Lager ($13.99/6 pk) made with sundried blueberries from Down Under; the coffee and chocolate flavoured Kenmount Road Chocolate Stout ($13.99/6 pk); the character filled, yet approachable Lunch Pail Ale ($13.99/6 pk) with its four types of malt and four types of hops; and the incredibly balanced, but I-can’t-have-more-than-two sweet SAP Vampire Maple Lager ($13.99/6 pk).

Central City

Located in Surrey, BC, Central City has been making a name for itself at beer competitions across North America. Particular standouts include their golden orange Red Racer IPA ($17.99/6 pk cans) with its aromas of melon, citrus, and pineapple, killer flavours of melon with a bitterness and a finish of orange blossoms; and the Red Racer ESB ($17.99/6 pk cans) with its floral hops, grapefruit, and enjoyable bitterness. •

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//the food notes 87 Vineland Vidal Icewine 2006, Niagara ($32/200 ml)

92 JoieFarm Muscat 2010, Okanagan ($23)

This second vintage of their 100% Naramata Bench estate-grown Moscato Giallo (Yellow Muscat) continues to delight and impress. The characteristic grapey fruit explosion grabs your attention and seduces your nose and palate. The sweet peach upfront turns to vibrant citrus and melon on the mid-palate and then intriguing dried blueberries on the long finish. Its medium dry style makes it a great match with prosciutto-wrapped melon with tangy pecorino cheese. (HH)

Rich, thick and intense, showing mature aromas and flavours of baked apple, spice and dried apricot backed by a vibrant structure. Try with baked apple tart. (GB)

90 Stratus Gew端rztraminer 2009, Niagara-on-the-Lake ($32)

84 Blomidon Estate Winery Red Rock Reserve 2009, Nova Scotia ($19.95) This blend of three grapes has an interesting nose revealing cherry, raspberry, red currant with a dash of cinnamon and clove.

The dominant flavour profile is bitter cherry with typically Nova Scotian forward acidity. A workman-like match for grills, pasta and pizza. (SW)

54 // July/August 2011

Here is a textbook Gew端rz if there ever was one. Supremely aromatic, peach, rosewater, mango, cold cream, cardamom and honey inundate the senses. In the mouth, it is full bodied, but elegant, as the sound acid ensures that there is no oiliness. The finish is long and echoes with what the nose doles out. Pair with a foie gras torchon topped with mango marmalade or a lightly spiced Thai salad. (ES)

89 Wild Goose Stoney Slope Riesling 2009, Okanagan ($20)

The one-acre, southwest-facing, gravelly site consistently delivers exceptional fruit year in and year out. Honeysuckle and tangerine aromas entice the nose.

Nutmeg, cumin and ginger flavours spice up the medium-sweet palate. Honey and mineral linger long on the finish. Match with spicy Asian dishes. (HH)

88 Tawse Sketches Cabernet/Merlot 2009, Niagara ($19.95)

Here is a solid value Ontario red, with an easy drinking personality.

Sketches 2009 is a medium-bodied offering with a deep cherry colour. The aromas and flavours are of blackcurrants, raspberries, tobacco smoke, cocoa and violets, and supple tannins and very good length support them all. Take it home tonight and serve it with rack of lamb or pasta in a tomato sauce, with grilled sausages. (ES)

88 Antinori Santa Cristina 2008, Chianti Superiore DOCG, Tuscany, Italy ($16.95)

Ruby/purplish. Typical Sangiovese nose with an extra dose of small red fruits. Subdued spicy oak. Medium body, tight core of fruit extract and finely grained tannins. Firmness in the nice, moderately long finish. Ready to drink and perfect with tomato-flavoured Italian meat or pasta. (GBQc)

Bouquet Garni by nancy johnson

//the farmer’s market

I love Saturday mornings at the Farmers’ Market, wandering through the stalls under a slowly warming sun, the dewy air scented with herbs. Vendors sort through their wares on long tables under canvas tents. Shoppers carry bouquets of sunflowers as they examine bushels of ripe peaches, glistening black grapes, green and orange melons, baskets of trailing impatiens, herbs exploding from tiny pots, baby fingerling carrots with soft leafy stems, papery yellow onions and slender scallions, sweet cherry tomatoes, cartons stuffed with new potatoes and green beans. There are juicy berry pies, tarts and bar cookies baked fresh that morning, baskets of buttery dinner rolls and loaves of shiny-topped egg bread. This is the time of year to discard the grocery list and buy what’s beautiful, plump, perfect, and in season.

Market Salad of Grill/ed Chicken, Tomatoes, and Basil with White French Dressing Serves 4

One of the ways I’ve decided to “go green” is to save small jam jars for mixing salad dressings and vinaigrettes. The jar can go right into the fridge after mixing. Most homemade dressings will keep well for about

3 days. To toast pine nuts, cook in a small skillet, over medium high heat, tossing or stirring often until golden. This recipe is all about substituting whatever is freshest at the market. Instead of leafy lettuce, use spinach. Instead of grape tomatoes, try yellow teardrop tomatoes or red seedless grapes. Instead of basil, add a mix of fresh herbs. Try adding steamed green beans, olives, hard-boiled eggs and tiny new potatoes for a Niçoise-style salad. If your market sells cheese, add a few wedges to each plate. And don’t forget the market baguettes!

4 1 6 2 1

1/2

chicken breast fillets tsp olive oil cups leafy lettuce cups grape tomatoes, halved bunch basil, torn cup pine nuts, toasted

1. Pat the chicken dry with paper towels, rub with olive oil

and season with salt and pepper to taste. Grill chicken on both sides until thickest part reaches 160˚F on a meat thermometer.

Set aside and let rest 10 minutes, tented with foil.

2. Divide lettuce, tomatoes, and basil among four dinner plates.

Garnish with pine nuts. Drizzle with White French Dressing.

+ Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on tidingsmag.com

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White French Dressing Years ago raw eggs were used to make White French, but in this much safer recipe mayonnaise stands in for the eggs. This dressing is reminiscent of the delicious white vinaigrette drizzled over bistro salads in Paris.

3 3 6 1

1/8 1/2

tbsp cider vinegar tbsp honey tbsp good quality mayonnaise, such as Hellman’s tbsp Dijon mustard tsp salt cup canola oil

1. In a small saucepan, heat cider vinegar and honey until honey melts, stirring occasionally. Set aside and let cool.

2. In blender, mix vinegar/honey mixture, mayonnaise, mustard and salt.

With blender running, slowly add oil. …… This bistro salad calls out for a buttery French Chardonnay.

Tomato Bruschetta When tomatoes are at their peak, there is nothing better than a simple sliced tomato with a sprinkle of sea salt. But when you need something a little fancier, try bruschetta, a great starter for any summer party. This appetizer was hugely popular in the early 90s and is worth revisiting during tomato season.

Bruschetta toasts 1 loaf crusty Italian bread or French baguette 1 garlic clove, crushed 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1. With a serrated knife, cut bread into 1/2 inch

thick slices. Grill on barbecue or under broiler about 1 minute per side or until toasted. Watch closely as they burn quickly! Rub one side of each toast with garlic and brush with olive oil. Serve with Tomato Bruschetta Topping.

Tomato Bruschetta Topping Add balsamic vinegar, minced red onion, fresh mozzarella, feta, ricotta salata, chives, crushed red pepper, chopped arugula or anything else your heart desires. The main star of this recipe is the tomato, so look for the freshest and best you can find. Heirloom tomatoes work beautifully, but this time of year just about any tomato will do.

4 3

ripe tomatoes, cored, seeded and diced basil leaves, chopped

1. Mix tomatoes and basil. Season with salt and pepper. …… Dollop each Bruschetta toast with the tomato mixture. Serve immediately with Napa Brut sparkling wine.

56 // July/August 2011

Asian Pepper Steak Stir-Fry Serves 4

This is one of my go-to recipes when peppers are at their peak. Cooking with a wok is fast and furious so make sure all ingredients are prepped ahead of time and the rice is cooked. To make slicing the steak easier, place in freezer for about 20 minutes. This is a basic stir-fry, so feel free to substitute whatever the market has on hand: snap peas, snow peas, green beans or wild mushrooms. Top with fresh sliced scallions.

2 1/2 tsp cornstarch, divided 1 tsp sugar, divided 1/2 tsp salt 1 lb top sirloin steak, trimmed and sliced thinly across grain 1/2 cup beef broth 1/4 cup low-sodium soy sauce 2 tbsp hoisin sauce 1 tbsp peanut or canola oil 1 onion, sliced 1 tsp minced fresh ginger 1 garlic clove, minced 1 red pepper, sliced 1 yellow pepper, sliced 1 green pepper, sliced Cooked jasmine rice

1. In a medium bowl, combine 1/2 tsp cornstarch, 1/2 tsp sugar and salt.

Add sliced steak, tossing to coat. Set aside.

2. In a separate medium bowl, combine remaining 2 tsp cornstarch, remaining 1/2 tsp sugar, broth, soy sauce and hoisin sauce, stirring until

sugar dissolves.

3. In a large wok or skillet, heat peanut or canola oil over medium high heat. Add onion, ginger and garlic. Stir-fry 3 minutes or until onion begins to soften. Add steak mixture and stir-fry 3 minutes or until steak is cooked through. Remove from pan and keep warm.

4. Add peppers to pan, stir-fry 5 minutes or until crisp-tender. Add steak mixture and broth mixture. Cook 2 minutes or until thickened, stirring constantly. Serve over jasmine rice. …… Match the peppers’ bold flavour with an equally bold Zinfandel.

Smashed Red Potatoes with Herbs This is a great chunky side dish with grilled steak or pork chops using those glorious tiny new potatoes piled in little baskets at the market.

Use the freshest herbs available. A final sprinkling of sea salt and freshly ground pepper is sublime.

1 1

1/2 2 2 1

lb small new potatoes tsp salt cup milk or buttermilk tbsp butter tbsp chopped fresh parsley tbsp chopped fresh chives

1. In a large pot, cover potatoes with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add salt, lower heat to medium high and boil potatoes for 20 minutes or until cooked through. Drain.

2. Return potatoes to pot and cook, stirring for one minute over low heat to evaporate moisture.

3. Remove potatoes from heat and mash coarsely with potato masher. Add milk or buttermilk and butter. For creamier potatoes, add a bit more milk or buttermilk but keep potatoes chunky. Stir in herbs. Season with salt and pepper. …… If serving with grilled steak or pork chops, pour a full red such as a Spanish Rioja.

Zucchini Pancakes What to do with all those zucchini? These crispy cakes are similar to potato pancakes and make a delicious change from the usual vegetable. Instead of oregano, use dill, basil, rosemary or mint, depending on what you find at the market. Serve as a vegetarian main course or as an accompaniment to grilled fish or chicken.

1 1/2 lbs green or yellow zucchini or a combination (about 4 medium zucchini) 1/2 small onion 1 egg 1/2 cup flour 1 clove garlic, pressed 3 scallions, sliced 1 tsp chopped fresh oregano leaves 1 tbsp canola oil (or more as needed)

1. Shred zucchini with a grater or food processor. Place in a colander, sprinkle with salt and set aside.

2. Grate onion into a large bowl. Mix in egg, flour, garlic, scallions, oregano, salt and pepper.

3. Rinse salt off zucchini. Squeeze zucchini to remove excess

liquid. Wrap in a paper towel and squeeze again until zucchini is dry. Stir into flour mixture.

4. Heat oil in a large skillet. Drop 1/4 cup batter into the skillet, gently pressing to form a 1/2 inch thick pancake. Repeat.

Cook in batches over medium heat for about 9 minutes or until golden brown, turning once and adding more oil as needed.

Serve with sour cream. …… Try with an Australian Riesling or Vouvray.

Apricot, Peach and Raspberry Crumble This is a great dish to take warm to a potluck. Feel free to substitute whatever stone fruits you can find such as nectarines or plums. Blueberries or blackberries can replace the raspberries. To peel the apricots and peaches, blanch in boiling water for about 1 minute. Remove, cool slightly and peel.

1 1

1/2

lb apricots, peeled and cut into quarters lb peaches, peeled and thickly sliced cup light brown sugar tsp grated lemon peel cups raspberries tbsp fresh lemon juice tsp almond extract

crumble topping

1/4 1 2 2

1

cup flour cup light brown sugar cup quick-cooking oats 1 tsp cinnamon 10 tbsp butter, chilled, cut up Vanilla ice cream, for serving

3/4 2/3

1. Heat oven to 375˚F. 2. In a large bowl, toss apricots and peaches with 1/4 cup

brown sugar and lemon peel. Pour into an 11 x 7 baking dish.

Add raspberries. Combine lemon juice and almond extract.

Sprinkle over fruit.

3. Make topping: In food processor, mix flour, brown sugar, oats, cinnamon and butter until mixture resembles course crumbs. Sprinkle over fruit. Bake 50 to 55 minutes or until bubbly. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream. …… Serve with a Vidal Icewine. •

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//the notes Brasseurs RJ Belle Gueule Rousse, Montreal, Quebec

Light brown colour. Roasted, somewhat spicy nose with dried wood and dark caramel notes. Soft and creamy mouthfeel, rich taste of torrefaction.

A small amount of bitterness in the clean finish. (GBQc)

85 Taurus by Benjamin Bridge 2006, Nova Scotia ($29.99) Somewhat complex bouquet uncovers developed red fruit and fine spice.

Lively red cherry character dominates in the mouth with moderate tannins, green leafy notes and still very aggressive acidity. (SW)

92 Concha y Toro Terrunyo Block 27 Carmenère 2007, Cachapoal Valley, Chile ($29.95) Year in, year out, this wine is one of Chile’s preeminent Carmenères. This fact, coupled with the fabulous growing conditions in 2007, has produced a black/purple coloured wine with a huge bouquet of cassis, dark cherry, tobacco, spice, smoke, earth and vanilla. The palate is full bodied, yet refined, with great amounts of ripe dark fruits and solid tannins. It will easily last for another 5 years.

At this price, it is a steal, so purchase a couple of bottles for the cellar. (ES)

89 Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Paso Robles, United States ($18.95) Now here’s a really tasty Cabernet Sauvignon at a good price. Deeply coloured, this wine has a lovely bouquet of blackcurrants with a floral grace note. It’s medium to full bodied with a richly extracted spicy flavour.

Drinking well now. (TA)

58 // July/August 2011

88 Hester Creek Pinot Gris 2010, Okanagan ($17) Unoaked treatment without any malolactic fermentation means a fresh, mouth-watering taste experience. Abundant orchard fruits and blossoms abound on both nose and palate. Pinot Gris’ richness fills the mid-palate, balanced by citrusy acidity. Fruit peel and sage on the finish.

Have with seafood risotto. (HH)

89 Alphonse Mellot La Moussière 2009, Sancerre, Loire Valley, France ($26.80)

Very pale colour. Light and delicate nose of citrus with hints of asparagus and chalk. The chiselled, sharp flavours are fruity, gaining in fattiness through the middle palate. Body remains light throughout and the finish is refreshing. Ready to drink. (GBQc)

Tidings uses the 100-point scale 95-100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

90-94. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

85-89 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80-84. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

75-79. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70 & under. . . . . . . . . . .

exceptional excellent

very good good acceptable

below average

* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . available through

wine clubs green. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . white & rosé wines red. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . red wines

Our Scoring

System

the commentaries in order to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board, or its website, for availability.

Our tasters are Tony Aspler (ON), Sean Wood (NS, NB), Gilles Bois (QC), Evan Saviolidis (ON), Harry Hertscheg (BC), Gurvinder Bhatia (AB) and Jonathan Smithe (ON).

Argentina // p. 59; Australia // p. 59-60; Canada // p. 60-62;

Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category.

Readers should open their palates to compare the relationship between quality and price. We’d also ask you to carefully study

CHILE // p. 63; France // p. 63; Germany // p. 63; Italy // p. 64; New Zealand // p. 64; South africa // p. 65; Spain // p. 65;

the notes\\ /Argentina /

90 Dominio del Plata Crios de Susana Balbo Torrentes 2010, Cafayate ($13.95)

Torrentes is Argentina’s answer to Gewürz (and/or Muscat). Aromatic, this value priced wine sings with peach, honeysuckle, flowers, citrus marmalade, incense and spice.

Light to medium bodied, there is excellent length and lovely refreshing acidity. (ES)

89 Valle Perdido Reserva Malbec 2006, Patagonia ($19.95)

Patagonia is Argentina’s most southerly wine region, and subsequently, one of its

coolest. This opaque black coloured Malbec shows layers of coffee, ripe cherries, prunes in alcohol, caramel, spice and violets. It is medium to full bodied with supple tannins and a long aftertaste. Drink it over the next 3 to 4 years. A solid value here! (ES)

/Australia / 88 Oakley Tic Tok Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Mudgee ($14.95)

Robert Oatley used to own Rosemount Estate before he sold it to the giant Southcorp group and opened his eponymous winery. This wine is pale straw in colour with a grassy,

+ A searchable listing of our tasting notes is at tidingsmag.com/notes/

United States // p. 65; beer // p. 65

gooseberry nose — flavours that replicate on the palate.

It’s medium bodied and fresh with lively acidity. (TA)

87 Lindeman’s Bin 75 Riesling 2008, Southeastern Australia ($12.99)

Distinctive Aussie-style Riesling displaying a developed bouquet highlighting grapefruit, tropical fruit and a whiff of mineral. Green and citrus fruit on the palate with agreeably balanced acidity and lingering notes of mineral and lime on the finish. (SW)

86 Devil’s Lair Fifth Leg White 2008, Western Australia ($17.99)

This blend displays fruity ripeness, but with cool climate vigour and focus.

Look for citrus and tropical fruit, appetizing mineral grip and palate cleansing acidity. (SW)

90 Elderton Friends Vineyard Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Barossa Valley ($17.95)

The wine is dense purpleblack in colour; the nose is concentrated blackcurrant, spice and cedar. It’s medium bodied, dry and elegant with a fruity mid palate and lively acidity that sustains the flavour. A delight for the price. (TA)

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//the notes 90 Penfolds Thomas Hyland Chardonnay 2009, South Australia ($19.95) Medium straw in colour with a high-toned, minerally, smoky nose of tropical fruits and toasty oak; medium bodied but full on the palate; nicely balanced with a fresh acidic core. (TA)

90 Ross Estate Old Vine Grenache 2007, Barossa Valley, South Australia ($28.98)

Complex aromatic profile unfolds with fine red fruit, nuanced spicy notes of cinnamon, clove and minty eucalyptus. Generous red berry fruit in the mouth is supported by supple tannins, deftly integrated fruit, a splash of milk chocolate and dry astringency on the finish.

Characterful, somewhat unconventional wine to liven up palates jaded by too much Shiraz. An even wine for veal parmigiano. (SW)

87 Devil’s Lair Fifth Leg Red 2006, Western Australia ($17.99)

An eclectic blend led by Cabernet Sauvignon showing cool climate scents of black currant, plum and fresh green herb. Delivers fresh berry and black currant flavours, lightly firm tannins, brisk acidity and a well-integrated finish. This bottle is made for the patio, while the BBQ is roaring. (SW)

60 // July/August 2011

/Canada / 92 Meyer Family Vineyards McLean Creek Road Vineyard Chardonnay 2009, Okanagan ($35)

One of the best Chardonnays I’ve tasted from BC. Straw coloured with a spicy, minerally, green pineapple and lemon nose, medium to full bodied, Burgundian style.

Rich and mouth-filling with a touch of vanilla oak (beautifully balanced) and a long, fresh acidic finish. (TA)

90 JoieFarm Rosé 2009, Okanagan ($21) A blend of Pinot Noir, Gamay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Gris.

Deep pink colour with a nose of strawberries and raspberries. A hint of residual sweetness is mitigated by tangerine acidity. One of the best rosés I’ve tasted from BC. (TA)

90 JoieFarm Unoaked Chardonnay 2010, Okanagan ($23)

First impressions are a clean

90 Château des Charmes Cabernet Franc St David’s Bench Vineyard 2007, St David’s Bench, Ontario ($25.95)

The Bosc family has always had a deft hand with Franc, and their bottling is consistently one of Ontario’s best. The wine is a medium cherry colour and beckons with tobacco, cassis, raspberries, spice and incense.

It is full bodied with excellent length.

The tannins are solid, so hold it until 2012 and then drink it until 2018. (ES)

briny nose backed by fresh apple and citrus aromas. The 22% Chardonnay Musqué also brings out bright aromatics and honey notes. The unoaked treatment ensures lively mouthfeel with vibrant minerality, while the 80% malolactic fermentation contributes a smooth texture and buttery cashew notes.

Long honey-lemon finish.

Solid choice for a variety of seafood dishes. (HH)

90 Malivoire Moira Vineyard Chardonnay 2008, Beamsville Bench ($39.95)

Medium straw in colour with aromas of apple, straw and vanilla oak. Full on the palate with well extracted fruit, great balance and length. (TA)

90 Stratus Riesling Icewine 2008, Niagara ($48/200 ml)

Elegant, intense and fresh with a fine balance of sweet apricot, pineapple, honey and lemon-candy against a razor’s edge of clean, sharp acidity.

Stylish and refined, will gain more complexity with a little time in the cellar. A nice match with seared foie gras. (GB)

89 Hester Creek Trebbiano 2010, Okanagan ($19)

Sourced from the Okanagan Valley’s only Trebbiano vineyard. Opens with bright peach, pear and honeysuckle aromas. The palate is fresh with lively citrus and passion fruit. The long, minerally finish ensures refreshment. A dryer interpretation than previous vintages. Suited for summer salad season. (HH)

89 Quails’ Gate Chenin Blanc 2010, Okanagan ($19)

Aromas of honeysuckle and lemon meringue pie followed by a mix of fruity and savoury flavours. Lively lemony acidity upfront leads to honey notes on the finish. Includes 10% barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc to add a rich texture.

Matches well with scallops and other shellfish. (HH)

89 JoieFarm Rosé 2010, Okanagan ($21)

This watermelon coloured blend of Pinot Noir (53%), Pinot Meunier (25%), Gamay (12%) and Pinot Gris (10%) delivers a mouth-watering, off-dry style. Gushes with red berry aromas and flavours, speckled with spice notes.

The light tannins on the finish add complexity. Stands up to spicy dishes. (HH)

89 JoieFarm Riesling 2010, Okanagan ($23)

Soaring acidity balances the notable sweetness (25g/L) on this “spätlese” style wine.

Clean aromas of ripe apple and tangy lime mingle with ginger spice. Bright, intense lemon drop and green apple flavours explode on the palate.

The candied lime peel finish is lip-smacking good. Refreshing with spicy Asian dishes. (HH)

89 Five Rows Craft Wine of Lowrey Vineyards Pinot Gris 2009, St David’s Bench ($25)

fruit, nectarine and peach flavours, racy on the finish, just off-dry and nicely laced with just enough acidity to keep it long and lively. Mouth-wateringly delicious. (GB)

89 Quail’s Gate Late Harvest Totally Botrytis Affected Optima 2008, Okanagan ($38/375ml) Rich and ripe with fresh, but intense flavours of apricot, honey, citrus peel and lychee, great mouth-filling texture and sugar-acid balance. Very drinkable and a versatile dessert wine. (GB)

88 Château des Charmes Chardonnay Musqué 2008, St David’s Bench ($16.95) Think of an unoaked Chardonnay with a splash of Muscat to give it an aromatic nose. Pale straw colour; lifted apple blossom nose with a dry apple flavour with citrus acidity. Beautifully balanced. (TA)

This was the winner in the category of best Pinot Gris at this year’s Cuvée awards. Not cheap, but it puts many an Ontario Gris (or Grigio) to shame. Mid weight, it delivers peaches, apple, mineral, grapefruit and gooseberries.

There is weight, but no heaviness, thanks to the wonderful acidity. (ES)

88 Featherstone Black Sheep Riesling 2010, Niagara Peninsula ($16.95)

89 Cave Spring Cellars Riesling CSV 2007, Beamsville Bench ($38.99)

88 Hester Creek Character 2010, Okanagan ($20)

Ripe, fresh and bracing with immense generosity, brimming with mineral-scented grape-

Almost water white, this organically grown Riesling has a nose of peach pit with a floral note; medium bodied with a peachy-citrus flavour and a touch of bitterness on the finish. (TA)

This medium-bodied blend of Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc includes their signature grape Trebbiano.

An array of melon, apple and citrus aromas and flavours along with fresh herbal nuances and lingering savoury notes. Its off-dry sweetness pairs well with spicy Asian dishes like Pad Thai. (HH)

St David’s Bench ($25)

88 Baillie-Grohman Pinot Gris 2009, Creston Valley, BC ($22)

88 13th Street Winery NV Premier Cuvée, Niagara ($29.95)

Impressive first release from third leaf vines near the BC-Washington border in the Kootenay region.

Expressive honeysuckle aromas with flavours of apples, pears, citrus and peach. French oak treatment adds mid-palate texture to the lively mouthfeel. The finish lingers with mineral and honey notes. Serve with barbecued pork. (HH)

88 Tawse Echos Riesling 2009, Niagara ($22)

Refreshingly built, with crisp charm and lovely flavours of grapefruit and citrus, fresh acidity, and a juicy, minerally finish. Ideal for hors d’oeuvres, salads and sushi. (GB)

88 Tinhorn Creek Pinot Gris 2009, Okanagan ($22.99)

A lovely white, smooth and round on the palate, delivering a generous portion of apple, spicy pear, citrus and honey with just the right amount of savouriness. The finish lingers beautifully, drawing you back for another sip. Would work well with grilled seafood. (GB)

88 Five Rows Craft Wine of Lowrey Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2009,

Another top white wine from Five Rows! Melon, grapefruit, lime, and mint are all in the mix. It is crisp, long in the mouth and very well made. (ES)

Even though the wine is labelled as a non-vintage, the Pinot Noir (2/3) and Chardonnay (1/3) grapes are from the cool 2006 vintage. 36 months on the lees has imbued this bubbly with biscuity aromas, which combine with lemon, apple, earth and a touch of cherry. There is a fine length and a delightful creamy texture. Oysters on the half shell with this wine are a no-brainer! (ES)

88 Tantalus Rosé 2009, Okanagan ($31.99)

A fun and lively rosé with a zesty, vibrant, strawberry, and bright raspberry character and a juicy, citrusy finish. A great summer sipper and perfect match for barbecued salmon, grilled hot dogs, and lamb Carpaccio.

A blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. (GB)

88 Cave Spring Indian Summer Riesling 2007, Niagara ($32.99/375 ml)

Shows beautiful balance and depth, expressing aromas of pear, apricot, and honey with flavours of more of the same along with spice and citrus peel, a long, balanced finish with bright acidity. Great with fruit tarts, lemon custard, and nutty tortes. (GB)

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//the notes 92 Château Latour à Pomerol 2008, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France ($79)

89 Tarantella Morso d’Amor Merlot 2008, Tarantino IGT, Italy ($18.99) Richly plum scented, with spicy and green herbal notes and bold, ripe flavours. Full-bodied, with solid structure, good overall balance, well integrated fruit, spice and a little dark chocolate on the finish. A solid example of new wave Puglia quality. (SW)

The fine nose of pure red fruits (mostly blackcurrant) has well dosed but noticeable oak. Quite compact on the palate, it shows elegance in its sweet, chunky fruit and silky tannins. Delicious! (GBQc)

87 Quails’ Gate Dry Riesling 2010, Okanagan ($17)

Honeydew melon, green apple and savoury green tea aromas capture attention. Bright acidity and vibrant lime balance the sweet orchard fruit flavours. A clean, refreshing finish. Serve with Dungeness crab cakes. (HH)

87 Quails’ Gate Chasselas/Pinot Blanc/Pinot Gris 2010, Okanagan ($18)

This off-dry blend offers a bouquet of floral and fruit salad aromas. The lighter body style, with ample, juicy orchard fruit flavours, is imminently quaffable. Savoury citrus peel and mineral notes make for a tangy, refreshing finish. A go-to choice for summer salads. (HH)

87 Huff Reserve Riesling 2008, Ontario ($19.95) This youthful Riesling is already taking on petrol notes on the nose; it’s medium bodied and extremely dry

62 // July/August 2011

with mouth-freshening tart lime flavours and hints of white peach. (TA)

87 Nk’Mip Riesling 2008, Okanagan ($26.99)

Very clean with juicy peach, apple, and citrus fruit notes and a lively minerality, balanced and medium bodied, with a long, mouthwatering finish. Perfect with summer salads or just sipping on the patio. (GB)

86 Quails’ Gate Gewürztraminer 2010, Okanagan ($17)

Characteristic spicy lychee and fragrant rose petal scents perk up the nose. Juicy acidity balances the off-dry sweetness level and richness on the mid-palate. Cinnamon stick notes add another spicy dimension. Begs for spicy Asian fare. (HH)

85 Blomidon Estate Winery Seyval Blanc 2009, Nova Scotia ($15)

Slightly shy dry green apple

87 Mudhouse Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Marlborough, New Zealand ($15.95) Here is a solid, multi-versatile, food friendly, and most importantly, great value SB. Fruit salad, passion fruit, grapefruit, grass and lime are built on a frame of crisp acidity. There is very good length as the fruit echoes on the finish. (ES) scent accurately predicts clean, very dry green apple flavour with a surprising squeeze of lime. Finishes slightly off dry with typically Nova Scotian bright acidity. (SW)

tannins. Cellar until 2013 and consume until 2018. If you opt to drink it tonight, think confit de canard or leg of lamb stuffed with feta cheese, toasted pine nuts and braised leeks. (ES)

92 Stratus Red Icewine, 2008, Niagara ($49/200 ml)

88 Strewn Meritage 2008, Niagara-on-theLake ($18.15)

Ripe and full of personality, with aromas and flavours of raspberry, strawberry, hints of spice and great balance between sweetness and crisp acidity. An intriguing blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. (GB)

90 Stratus Petit Verdot 2007, Niagaraon-the-Lake ($38)

The 2007 Petit Verdot is even better than the delicious 2006.

It possesses a dark cherry colour and a huge bouquet of coconut, coffee, milk chocolate, smoke, raspberries, cassis and game. Full bodied, the palate is ripe with lots of red and black fruits. There is excellent length and firm, ripe

An excellent effort in a difficult red wine vintage.

Ruby-coloured with a nose of cedar and redcurrants, dry, lovely mouthfeel with firmly structured redcurrant and cherry flavours. (TA)

87 Hester Creek Character 2009, Okanagan ($20)

This Merlot/Syrah/Malbec/ Petit Verdot red blend, aged in American and French oak, delights with a mélange of red fruit, dried herb and earthy aromas. The fresh palate features tangy berry fruit and well-balanced dry tannins.

Coffee and dried berries linger on the finish. Bring on the burgers. (HH)

/Chile /

/France /

88 Cono Sur Viognier 2009, Colchagua Valley ($10.99)

89 Cave de Hoen Riesling 2009, Alsace ($15.95)

Ripe peach and floral notes on the nose open the way for lightly crunchy peach and supporting apricot flavours in the mouth. Refined fruit expression on the palate with a refreshing lift and a lingering touch of spice on the finish. Striking quality and varietal character at an amazingly low price. Worth keeping a couple bottles for emergencies. (SW)

88 Concha Y Toro Casillero Del Diablo Malbec 2009, Rapel Valley ($12.99)

Dark berry scents and dry, tannic astringency on the nose. Shows both red currant and berry flavours, together with firm dry tannic bite, cinnamon and clove spiciness and a dash of milk chocolate on an otherwise puckery dry finish. Move over, Argentina, Chile is making waves with your signature grape! (SW)

87 Yali Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Colchagua Valley ($14.99)

Another solid, well priced Chilean Cabernet showing typically expressive black currant and minty green herbal character with some blackberry, smooth chocolate flavour and texture, moderate tannins and a harmoniously integrated finish. Great with most BBQ fare as well as a simple filet mignon. (SW)

Great quality here for the price. Straw coloured with a minerally, honeyed peach nose and a floral note, medium bodied, rich and full on the palate, dry and racy.

Nicely balanced. (TA)

89 Gustave Lorentz Crémant d’Alsace AC ($24.99)

Attractively soft red fruit with subtle biscuity and spicy scents yielding to similarly fruity character on the palate.

Delightfully creamy texture with fine mousse, a touch of mineral and appetizing acidity.

A reasonably priced alternative to Champagne (SW)

87 JeanJean Ormarine 2009, Picpoul de Pinet, Languedoc ($12.55)

Pale yellow. Aromatic, very fresh, slightly herbaceous nose with notes of citrus (grapefruit). Lively on the palate, its light fruity taste will go well with fish and seafood.

A tiny amount of carbonic gas adds to its refreshing nature.

Drink now. (GBQc)

86 Domaine Le Pive Gris 2009, VP des Sables du Golfe du Lion, Midi ($14.15)

Pale pink. Perfumed, candied nose of strawberry, watermelon. A fruit bomb in the mouth, charming and round, its low acidity and a tad of residual sugar are an easy gulp. Not a serious wine, but it is hard to resist a second glass. (GBQc)

88 Château de la Greffière Mâcon La Roche Vineuse 2009, Burgundy ($14.95)

93 Château LafleurPétrus 2008, Pomerol, Bordeaux ($119)

A very stylish, bargain-priced Mâcon. Yellow straw in colour with a nose of apple and green pineapple; dry, medium bodied with zesty acidity; well structured and firm. (TA)

Full ruby. Nose is a bit shy but fresh and shows wellintegrated oak. Very good concentration yet it feels fresh on the palate. The finish is bright and clean.

Excellent potential. (GBQc)

87 Domaine du Tariquet Classic 2009, VP Côtes de Gascogne, Southwest ($11.30)

89 Frédéric Magnien Coeur de roches 2009, Côtes de Nuits-villages, Burgundy ($27.65)

Pale yellow. Citrus, a touch of exotic fruits and a hint of white flowers. Light, very fresh taste thanks to its excellent acidity, some carbonic gas and elevated finish (bitterness). At only 10.5% alcohol, it is perfect to wash down hors-d’oeuvres or white fish. Drink now. (GBQc)

Purplish. Attractive, typical “Pinot Noir” nose of small red fruits and spicy notes. Quite intense and a bit sauvage. Nice fruity attack, firm middle palate and slightly bitter finish of very good length. Drink over the next 3 to 4 years.

Great with bison steaks or other wild game. (GBQc)

89 Château Chantalouette 2006, Pomerol, Bordeaux ($39.25)

Medium ruby. Noticeable evolution on the vanilla and plum oriented nose. Oak is present but not overbearing.

Soft and supple on the tongue, this is quite enjoyable right now. (GBQc)

88 Jean-Pierre Moueix Pomerol 2006, Bordeaux ($27.95) Medium ruby colour. The slightly roasted nose has a nice finesse. Quite tight on the palate, the distinctive flavours are only slightly oaky. Finish is firm. Very good quality. (GBQc)

87 Château Bel Air 2008, Bordeaux ($16.95) A well made and well priced claret. Dense purple-ruby colour with a nose of cedar, blackcurrant and a medicinal note; medium bodied, meaty, black fruit flavours; firmly structured with a tannic lift on the finish.

Worth a try if you are preparing a cassoulet or a simpler sausage dish. (TA)

/Germany / 88 Badischer Winzerkeller Gewürztraminer 2009, Baden Qualitatswein ($13.29) Surprisingly elegant varietal bouquet reveals delicate rose petal perfume and a pinch of white pepper. Characteristic apricot flavour is appealingly light with gentle smoothness and unobtrusive acidity.

Sterling value. (SW)

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//the notes /Italy /

89 Terre di Rubinoro Vino Nobile de Montepulciano 2006, Tuscany ($17.95)

88 Inama Vin Soave 2009, Soave Classico, Veneto ($17.90)

Deep ruby colour with a minerally nose of dried cherries lifted with a floral note, dry and elegant, medium to full bodied, beautifully balanced and finishing with a savoury note. (TA)

Golden yellow. Ripe nose of exotic fruits (pineapple, peach), notes of fresh herbs and honey with a mineral undertone (flint). Lively acidity, ripe and nice fruity flavour, good volume and length. Ready to drink and perfect with roasted chicken. (GBQc)

89 Castello di Gabbiano Riserva 2007, Chianti Classico, Tuscany ($22.95)

88 Concilio Argent Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Trentino DOC ($19.99)

A refined wine revealing both the aromatic herbal pungency of Sauvignon varietal and distinctive regional terroir.

Lively green fruit shows real delicacy with welltuned acidity and a light touch of mineral. (SW)

87 Poggio Marino Vermentino 2009, Maremma, Tuscany IGT ($16)

Ruby/garnet. The somewhat shy nose shows deep red fruits (cherry, plum) and notes of oak. The sweet fruit has good intensity on the palate but the tannins still have a rough edge at this stage. Finish is equally intense and tight, a further sign of aging potential.

Will need 3 to 4 years to reach its peak. (GBQc)

88 Pisoni Teroldego 2008, Trentino ($14.95)

Enticingly aromatic floral scents with yellow and green fruit overtones. Flavours are simultaneously ripe and refreshingly clean with good acidity and an intriguing salty note on the finish. (SW)

Teroldego is a distant cousin to Syrah. The wine is deep ruby in colour with a floral, spicy nose of raspberries and blueberries. It’s medium bodied and remarkably elegant for the price with a firm, dry, fruity flavour. (TA)

88 Azienda Agricola Talamonti Tre Saggi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2006, Abruzzo ($15.95)

You don’t get much deeper colour than this — dense purple-black; spicy, black cherry nose with a floral top note; medium bodied, lovely juicy fruit with an overlay of oak. Finishes firmly.

A rich, meaty ragu is what I recommend. (TA)

87 Gabbiano 2007, Chianti Classico DOCG ($21.99)

Red fruits with a whiff of peppery spice on the nose lead the way for warm flavours of red berry with cherry and redcurrant playing supporting roles. Moderate tannic grip, a lick of dark chocolate and a light peppery note on the finish. (SW)

85 Pellegrino Cent’are Nero D’Avola 2008, IGT Sicily ($13.90)

Ruby/purple on the rim.

Sweet fruit and spicy oak.

Soft attack, more sweet red fruits in the mouth. Slightly rustic with dry tannins.

Finish is a bit short.

Drink up. (GBQc)

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64 // July/August 2011

/New / Zealand 91 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Marlborough ($19.95)

Kim always produces a top-notch, textbook Sauv Blanc year in, year out. All things being equal, this is the best version I have tasted in a long time. It is full bodied and concentrated, with loads of green pineapple, fruit salad, lime cordial, passion fruit, grapefruit and tomato vine. The finish is long and the fresh acidity underscores it all. (ES)

89 Bell Bird Spring Home Block Pinot Gris 2010, Waipara Valley ($43.99)

Aromatic qualities reveal green apple, mineral and a hint of pear. The same themes come through on the enticingly creamy palate with stony minerality on the finish. (SW)

91 Bell Bird Spring Block Eight Pinot Noir 2009, Waipara Valley ($44.99) Classic varietal Pinot nose shows fine aromatic cherry like fruit with background herbal and subtle spice.

On the palate, refined red

fruit with evolving velvet texture, firm but fairly supple tannins, finishing with a discreet splash of milk chocolate. Needs time to integrate fully. (SW)

/South / Africa 89 Delaire Chardonnay 2009, Stellenbosch ($23.20)

On the nose: subtle lemon butter, vanilla, a pinch of nutmeg and a hint of hazelnut.

On the palate: refined citrus, hazelnut and light buttery caramel flavours culminate in a long, harmonious dry finish.

Nutty, buttery notes really linger. (SW)

/Spain / 88 Torres Esmeralda 2009, Catalonia ($12.95) Candied fruits, soft spices, lychee on the expressive nose. Nice fattiness on the palate, extra roundness is brought by a tad of residual sugar. Finish is a bit short but well balanced. 85% Moscatel, the Spanish name for Muscat, plus 15% Gewürztraminer. (GBQc)

90 Torres Celeste 2007, Ribera del Duero ($20.95)

Ruby/garnet. Ripe red fruits on the slightly perfumed nose, oak is well dosed. Good freshness and extract, full bodied, a bit compact and one-dimensional at this stage.

Excellent buy if you let it sleep for 3 to 5 years. (GBQc)

/United / States 90 William Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Napa Valley ($34.95)

This opaque black wine has a purple rim. The combination of crème de cassis, raspberries, vanilla, dark chocolate, spice and hints of molasses flatter the senses. Fullbodied, there is excellent length as well as firm yet ripe tannins. Drink it over the next 5 years. (ES)

88 Ghost Pines Winemaker’s Blend Merlot 2007, North Coast. ($19.95)

The wine is equal parts Sonoma and Napa Valley grapes. Deep ruby in colour, it has a nose of vanilla oak and

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blackberries with a spicy note; it’s medium to full bodied with soft, sweet fruit, toasty oak and cocoa notes balanced by good acidity. (TA)

/Beer / Brasseurs RJ Belle Gueule Pilsner, Montreal, Quebec ($13/6 pack)

Pilsner beers are arguably the best choice to quench a hot summer day’s thirst. Honey yellow colour, it smells primarily of hops but also shows delicate herbal notes; hay. Light, even very light with a good, refreshing taste.

No bitterness in the clean finish. (GBQc)

Brasseurs RJ Belle Gueule Originale, Montreal, Quebec ($13/6 pack)

Dark yellow, copper reflections. Fresh nose of hops, yeast, cereal. Mellow, soft texture, it seems to have a tad of sweetness on the tongue. Clean, maybe a bit short finish, but there’s a lasting touch of bitterness.

Very good. (GBQc)

Cannery Brewing IPA, BC ($12.99/6 pack)

Clear copper colour, a good hoppy flavour and clean crisp texture. The hops don’t overpower making this quite an approachable beer, yet still with character. (GB)

Charlevoix La Vache Folle Imperial Milk Stout, Quebec ($6.50/500 ml)

Dark in colour with aromas

of mocha and coffee. Has the body of a stout, but the creaminess of chocolate milk. A delicious beer showing flavours of dark chocolate, brown sugar, cherries, coffee and mocha mousse. Smooth and creamy, full flavoured but not heavy with a bright drinkability and great balance — but be careful — it’s 9% but doesn’t taste like it … it sneaks up on you. Great beer! (GB)

Dieu du Ciel Blanche du Paradis, Quebec ($17.99/6 pack)

A wheat beer brewed with spices showing aromas of citrus, pepper, and fresh baked bread, flavours of citrus and spice with a rich texture and lively finish. Another great beer from this artistic craft brewery. This is what bratwurst and knockwurst were created for. (GB)

Steam Whistle, Ontario ($14.99/6 pack)

Distinct aroma of hops with a clean and crisp palate, medium body and a pleasant bitterness on the finish. Quite easy and refreshing with more character than your big brews.

Quite drinkable. I like this beer with a simple nacho dish but it really shines with a chicken mole. (GB)

Unibroue Chambly Noir, Quebec ($14.50/6 pack)

A strong dark ale, slightly creamy in texture, with aromas of cherry and a breadiness, flavours of cherry cough drops and a roasted bitterness.

Doesn’t quite deliver unlike many of the other great beers from this brewery. (GB)

tidingsmag.com

\\ 65

final Word

by tony aspler

//spectacular bottles

In my wine life I find I have reached the tippling point. I no longer hoard my fine wines. I am drinking them. It is not because I have reached an age when I will no longer buy futures of Bordeaux classified growths. Nor was I inspired by a poster I saw in a travel agent’s window: “Fly First Class Or Your Heirs Will.” It’s just that I have a lot of mature wine and I want to make sure that I enjoy it before the whites turn to sherry and the reds become prune juice.

The problem is for the most complete enjoyment of great wines you have to share them with like-minded individuals. For the last 30 years I have been a member of a dinner club called

66 // July/August 2011

the Saintsbury Society. It was named after George Saintsbury, an Oxford professor of French who wrote a seminal wine book in 1920 entitled Notes on a Cellar Book.

There are, and only have been since it was founded, three members of the Society. We meet in each other’s homes about four times a year. The host cooks the dinner, invites another couple — so we are eight at table — and everyone brings wine of a theme chosen by the host. It could be California Reds, Rhône, Rioja reds, South America, whatever.

There are only two rules for the Saintsbury Society: you cannot cut bread; it must be broken by hand and passed around the table; and if you’re the guest you will not be invited back to another Saintsbury dinner in that house.

Over the years we have consumed some spectacular bottles of wine and since the membership is made up of dedicated oenophiles we don’t mind bringing out the good stuff. The problem is at other dinners when I entertain friends who aspire to drink nothing better than wines with animals on the label. I admit quite candidly, under these circumstances, I am an oenological fascist. I will not bring out great wines and serve them to guests who would rather drink a Martini throughout the meal. I have a mentor for this dubious behaviour — the late President Richard Nixon.

In their book on the Watergate scandal, Washington Post investigative reporters Woodward and Bernstein recorded that Nixon would entertain his southern senator cronies on his yacht, Sequoia, moored in New York harbour. He ordered his staff to serve his guests, who had downed a sequence of mint juleps, “a rather good six-dollar bottle [while] his glass was to be filled from a bottle of Château Margaux 1966 wrapped in a towel.”

Now I don’t go that far but I certainly sympathize with the old rogue. But what I have no sympathy for is the plethora of gadgets and gizmos currently flooding the market. They are meant to make tannic wines table-ready by pouring them through a funnel or some such apparatus. Or those hock pucklike devices that are said to alter the molecular structure of tannins by arousing them with a 45-minute encounter with a magnetic field. After which the tannins become flaccid.

We live in a Peter Pan society that is enraptured by the cult of youth and battles to keep aging at bay at all costs. And yet when it comes to wine we want to force the aging process instead of letting Nature take its course. One of my mother’s many homilies as I was growing up was, “Patience is a virtue.” Let wine mature at its own pace but keep a watchful eye on it because benign neglect could mean a geriatric taste experience. •

illustration: FRancesco Gallé, www.francescogalle.com

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