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//features 20// the long hangover by matthew Sullivan
A hard look at Canada’s antiquated liquor laws.
22// SAS
by evan saviloidis The exclusive interview with one of Niagara’s top driving-winemakers, Sue-Ann Staff.
48
24// Golden Boy by Rick Vansickle
Is any bottle of Icewine worth $250,000?
28// accidental Brewers by Crystal Luxmore
An insight into the lives of 4 of Canada’s top microbrewers.
33// Old school beer
by Merle Rosenstein Organic is the thing.
36// temperance by Tod Stewart
PEI’s two distilleries spill the beans.
40// summer loving
by carolyn Evans-Hammond Make the best summer Sangria. Be the envy of all your friends.
42// Don’t Hate me by Michael Pinkus
Can I change your mind about Baco Noir?
45// Crave
by Rosemary Mantini 5 Canadians making something delicious.
48// claw
by robert Hausner
22 36
What makes the best lobster roll?
tidingsmag.com
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//Ă la carte 7// Contributors 8// from the editor 11// Conversations Letters to the editor.
13// Simple Living Michael Volpatt
14// Umami
66
Joanne Will
17// Anything but
martinis
sheila swerling-puritt
18// Bon Vivant Peter Rockwell
50// Discovery rick Vansickle
52// Davine
Gurvinder Bhatia
55// Bouquet Garni Nancy Johnson
66// final word
50
//notes 51// the mav notes
54// the food notes
An appetizing selection of food-friendly faves.
Tony Aspler
59// The Buying Guide
Top wines from around the world scored.
Argentina // p. 58 Canada // p. 58-62 chile // p. 62 France // p. 62-63
17
germany // p. 63 Hungary // p. 63 Italy // p. 63-64 New Zealand // p. 64 portugal // p. 64 spain // p. 64 United States // p. 64-65 spirits // p. 65 beer // p. 65
4 // July/August 2012
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//online
//contributors
+ more on tidingsmag.com
Follow us on twitter and tumblr Quenchbytidings.tumblr.com twitter.com/quenchbytidings Crystal Luxmore is a Toronto writer, editor and roving beer reporter. She writes a bi-weekly Hopped Up column in The Grid newspaper, and her stories have appeared in the Globe & Mail, ELLE Canada, The Walrus, Beer Advocate, Reader’s Digest and online for the New York Times and CBC. Nothing makes her happier than writing about beer — except drinking it.
Travel Go on a guided tour and discover the best of Barolo.
Summer Recipes Lemon Verbena Zabaglione, 5-Spice Chicken Wrap, Chilled Sunset Bellini.
Cooking Challenge Sherried Scallop Appetizer.
Features Robert Hausner takes us through the ins-and-outs of cured meat.
blogs With two teenage daughters, Merle Rosenstein has plenty of reason to drink. Instead, she channels her energy and curiosity into writing about food, drink, travel, and health and fitness and has been published in wherecanada.ca, AOL Travel Canada, Edible Toronto and TAPs magazine. Merle is also a staff writer for Canadian Traveller magazine. You can catch up with Merle on Twitter and at www.newfreelancerwriter.wordpress.com.
To reduce the impact of numerous wine and food sorties abroad, contributing editor Tod Stewart permanently lives in a different time zone. And while it helps with the jet lag, many complain that he seems somewhat distant.
Get your food and wine fix, updated weekly. This month, Kitchen Mama lets you in on some great food buys.
Plus!
More original recipes; a daily serving of
food and drink news and views; culinary tips, tricks and techniques.
Next Month In Tidings A mass of matching: a comprehensive guide to food and drink combos The bacon revolution A close look at chile and Argentina
Contributing editor Gurvinder Bhatia’s love of wine and food took him from practising law to eating and drinking his way around the world in search of all things delicious. He also writes about wine for the Edmonton Journal, judges international wine competitions, and owns Vinomania wine boutique to support his habit. You can follow his culinary adventures on Twitter @EdmontonWineGuy.
The chef within us Women in champagne Notes from the red spectrum ... And So Much More
tidingsmag.com
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//from the editor July/August 2012 Issue # 304
\\
12 annual Canadian th
issue they seem to be everywhere
Editor-in-chief
Aldo Parise editor@tidingsmag.com
I don’t really know what possesses anyone to start a restaurant, distillery, winery or brewery these days. I understand the passion, but it’s the actual stamina that surprises — and delights — me. All over Canada these brave souls waver through a tough economy and a glut of choice to put themselves out there. These sometimes wild ideas are always close to their hearts. And if it doesn’t work, it is doubly devastating. I don’t envy them that. What I do envy is their nonchalant ways to just get it done. I’ve talked to hundreds of wine producers, restaurateurs and — especially for this issue — brewers who have fully developed their ideas. All of them have that sparkle in their eyes when they talk about the origins of their particular concept. Some abandon all to make the project work while others tough out two or three jobs to get things done. Financing is a huge part, while pure know-it-all is what drives everything forward. So while you plan for your summertime travels, think of the small mad scientist near you and seek them out. For me I have two places mapped out. In my home town, a small brewery has started up. Le Castor Brewing Company has just gotten their organic certification and the brew is on. I’m dying to see what they have built in such a short time. The other place is a bit more established. Beau’s in Vankleek Hill, Ontario has garnered quite a following over the years. Started by a father and son team, the Beauchesne’s are the ideal example of craft. With plenty of family muscle they brewed a series of organic, flavourful beers that are the delight of some — while being the envy of brewers across Canada. These are the places I’m going to visit this July. And I haven’t even planned August yet. Where are you going? Visit www.tidingsmag.com/mavericks/ and let us know.
Contributing Editors
Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart Contributing food Editor
Nancy Johnson Contributing Lifestyle Editor
Rosemary Mantini Columnists
Tony Aspler, Peter Rockwell, Michael Volpatt, Joanne Will, Sheila Swerling-Puritt Contributors
Sean Wood, Harry Hertscheg, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Rick VanSickle, Michael Pinkus, Carolyn Evans-Hammond, Matthew Sullivan, Crystal Luxmore, Merle Rosenstein, Robert Hausner, Jonathan Smithe Tasters
Tony Aspler, Rick VanSickle, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Jonathan Smithe, Ron Liteplo and Gurvinder Bhatia COPY DESK
Jennifer Croll, Kathy Sinclair web editor
Rosemary Mantini Creative by Paris Associates Art Direction
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ww+Labs, cmyk design, studio karibü Illustrations & Photography
Matt Daley, Francesco Gallé, Push/Stop Studio, august photography Cover Design
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8 // July/August 2012
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conversations\\
Kylix Media CFO
Lucy Rodrigues Circulation
circ@tidingsmag.com Accounts
Marilyn Barter accounts@tidingsmag.com Advertising Representation Dovetail Communications
Senior Account Executive Jacquie Rankin: jrankin@dvtail.com 9 05-886-6640 ext 304 Sales Associate Amanda Jones: ajones@dvtail.com 905-886-6640 ext. 308
Sean Wood’s article on the high alcohol content of many red wines in recent years should be a wake up call for wineries and wine importers. Wines with an alcohol content of fourteen and fifteen percent not only overpower most dishes, they also overpower our taste buds, especially after a glass or two. Personally I have been avoiding wines with such alcohol strength for sometime, no matter how highly they are rated. Bordeaux producers have known that for a long time which is why their wines are sought after and in general go well with most foods.
... Wines with an alcohol content of fourteen and fifteen percent not only overpower most dishes, they also overpower our taste buds, especially after a glass or two ...
Greg Sullivan, Ottawa
www.tidingsmag.com www.tidingseats.com Now in our 39 year th
Kylix Media, 5165 Sherbrooke St. West, Suite 414, Montreal, Quebec, H4A 1T6, Tel: 514.481.6606, Fax: 514.481.9699. Subscription Rates: Canada: $36 per year, $58 per 2 years, USA: $55 per year, Other: $75 per year. Single Copies: $5.95. Tidings, Canada’s Food & Wine Magazine, a registered trademark of Kylix Media, is published 8 times a year: (February/March, April, May/June, July/August, September, October, November, December/January). Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. © 2012 Kylix Media Inc. Printed in Canada. ISSN-0228-6157. Publications Mail Registration No. 40063855. Member of the Canadian Federation of Independent Business.
The May/June cocktail issue is a blast. I really love all the possible combinations that mixing liquid ingredients can give. What mixologists do is similar to what chefs do when they create fabulous food, isn’t it? Hooray for the drink masters. My favourite so far is the Jimmy Russell’s Mint Julep. But, I’m slowly adding all of them to my drink roster. Wendel Miku, email
Rick Van Sickle’s experiment in challenging chefs to create food on the spot to pair with a particular wine was most enlightening. Allan Johnson, email
Tidings uses 10% post-consumer recycled fibres
Re: Matthew Sullivan’s “Game Changer”, some of the best meat I’ve had in a very long time is game. It’s more succulent and flavourful than any beef or pork you’ll find at the grocery store. Paul Torre, email
Material chosen for publication may be edited for clarity and fit. Please e-mail your comments and questions to editor@tidingsmag.com.
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\\ 11
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Simple living
best salad ever\\
A few weeks ago I headed out to the beaches of Fire Island, NY. The weather was amazing and the position of the sun made the evening air so calm and peaceful. The weeks are so very different from the weekends on the island. The atmosphere changes from non-stop energy to peacefulness, and the people who stay during the week are just as calm. Over the last few years I have had the pleasure of befriending a wonderful group of “locals” on the island. This group of people plays pool every evening at one of the local bars, and they often dine together. Chuck and Judy, two of the pool sharks, have had their house on the Island since the 1950s (well ... it has been in Chuck’s family since then), and Kirby and Ralph have owned their place since the 1960s. Jim and Jim, two of my favourites, run a local bed and breakfast. Scoring an invitation to dinner at the Jims’ is always so amazing. Not only do they make great food, but they also pack their dinner table with some amazing people. So during our week in Fire Island, Jim invited me and my friend Patrick for dinner one night and prepared the best salad that I have had in a long time. It was so flavourful and very creative in its preparation. It was also perfect for a cool summer evening at the beach. Jim uses Roquefort in his dressing, but I opted for the sweeter Gorgonzola Dolce and adapted the recipe even further to give it some additional colour.
by michael volpatt
Here is what you will need: 1 1 1
1/2 3 1 2
cup buttermilk cup sour cream cup Gorgonzola Dolce (about 1/2 lb) cup green onion tops, chopped heirloom tomatoes, chopped cup balsamic vinegar heads romaine
1. Place the buttermilk, sour cream and Gorgonzola Dolce into a food
processor or blender and blend well until smooth and creamy. Add the chopped green onions; mix, cover and place in the refrigerator. 2. Chop the tomatoes and place into a bowl with the balsamic vinegar. Cover and place in the refrigerator. 3. Chop the romaine, and, when you are ready to eat, toss the salad with the dressing then top with the tomatoes. 4. This one is so simple and delicious and goes well with grilled meats or fish. …… One very important thing to consider when making this salad is the tomatoes you use. I personally abhor hothouse or beefsteaks. They are dull and flavourless. Whenever I prepare this salad, or anything with tomatoes in the recipe, I try to always use heirlooms from the garden in my backyard or from the garden of a friend. The flavour of freshly picked tomatoes from the garden is a far cry from grocery-store tomatoes, and they are much better for you too.
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it’s a revival\\
With stalks that make incredible pie and can also be used for dye, roots prized for centuries in Chinese medicine and a history which also includes 13th-century transport from Asia to Europe by Marco Polo — and with higher trade values than opium and saffron — it’s a wonder we aren’t more interested in rhubarb. Or are we? Rhubarb appears in haute cuisine, and it’s always been fashionable in crisps and crumbles, but a recent study estimates our per-capita consumption at just 0.14 kg. To learn more about this underutilized perennial (classed as a vegetable in the UK and as fruit in the US and Canada), I consulted a man who’s supplied rhubarb crowns to gardeners and commercial growers in Nova Scotia for over 30 years. Charles Keddy produces several varieties at his nursery, including Canada Red, one of the most popular in this country, and Sutton, which was first introduced by Sutton Seeds in 1893. There are, as it turns out, more than a hundred known rhubarb varietals — some green, some red, and others are a cross. So what does colour have to do with taste? “Nothing really. Rhubarb is sour, period,” laughs Keddy. “People say some are sweeter than others, and if you have a very delicate palate perhaps you’ll be able to tell, just as some people know the difference between a $7 wine and a $25 bottle.” The redder the variety, typically the less prolific the plant, says Keddy. “That’s why greener varieties are generally grown for commercial production. A real red variety like Valentine or Ruby might provide two to four pounds per plant, whereas a green like Sutton will yield 10 to 15 pounds.” “It’s probably the earliest-producing fruit crop, and it’s fairly easy to grow,” he goes on to say. “I heard my grandfather say many times that if you dug it out and threw it in the middle of
14 // July/August 2012
umami
by joanne will
the driveway it would probably carry on. If it’s in a spot with good drainage it will do well; it won’t like what we call “wet feet” or being saturated most of the time. It likes good sun exposure; put a bit of fertilizer or compost on and it’ll thrive. Throw a bag over your plant in the fall and by the first of May you’ll be picking a bit to make rhubarb sauce, jam, chutney, relish or pie.” Sweeter, more tender stalks can be produced by a process called “forcing,” which began, by accident, in Britain in 1817, and also has a long history in Canada. “There used to be quite a market for it, but it’s not being done to a great scale here anymore. Back in the 1960s, 1970s and earlier, things like strawberries weren’t available year-round; oranges and bananas were expensive, and people did a lot more baking. They’d dig up the plants in the fall, put them in a barn cellar or warehouse, crowd them in tight, add water, and keep out the light. The process produced a beautiful product — fine, tender, pink stalks. There may be a bit of forcing done by someone going to a farmer’s market these days, but not very much.” To get the most from your rhubarb, try roasting. Elaine Lemm, author of The Great Book of Rhubarb, recommends roasting rhubarb pieces (approximately three centimetres) in the oven with a few tablespoons of brown sugar and orange juice to preserve colour, intensify flavour and retain shape. Once roasted, use in any recipe calling for stewed rhubarb, or freeze for up to six months. Rhubarb may be somewhat overlooked these days, but don’t be surprised to see it on the world stage this summer: when London mayor Boris Johnson officially opened the 2012 Olympic Summer Games velodrome, he announced that the rosy hue of the building’s exterior was achieved by “lovingly rubbing it with rhubarb juice.” Yummy.
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Tequila is the Rodney Dangerfield of distilled spirits: it doesn’t get any respect — not enough, anyway. When the occasional friend screws up their face and tells me about their first encounter with a margarita, it’s really about too many of them, made with mixto and loads of sugar, gulped back in the hot sun. No wonder they abandoned what is a wonderful spirit. For true Tequila enjoyment, stick with those bottlings made of 100 per cent blue agave. The plant is a member of the lily family — not a cactus — and takes almost a decade to reach maturity. It may cost more than mixto (51 per cent blue agave) but it’s worth the price. Tequila is from an officially delimited region in the state of Jalisco, Mexico. If you visit Guadalajara it is definitely worth the time to drop in to some of the nearby distilleries. Unaged blanco (Silver) has a distinctive, delicious agave flavour and is great in mixed drinks. Reposado has a little barrel aging and can be enjoyed neat or in cocktails. Añejo has spent more time in the barrel, which gives it a golden colour. It’s meant to be used as you would a cognac or a good single malt. When you’re shopping for Tequila, don’t be fooled by fancy packaging. A nice bottle doesn’t guarantee a nice drink. Our shelves only hold a modest variety of Tequilas, but fortunately the list seems to be growing. Enjoy your Tequila with food. Its bright, lively flavour complements your dishes. It also makes a nice change from vodka in your martini. My focus group at George Brown College tasted these, first neat and then with a little fresh lime.
anything but martinis by sheila swerling-puritt
Maestro Dobel Diamond Colour: an aged tequila that looks like a silver due to special filtering, but is comprised of Reposado, Añejo and Extra-Añejo tequilas. Nose: baked agave, coffee Taste: vanilla, butterscotch and nutmeg Finish: honey, smooth, very well balanced
Cabo Wabo Reposado Nose: earthy, smoky, floral, ginger Taste: spicy, tropical fruit, peaches, caramel, citrus Finish: soft and smooth
Don Julio Blanco Nose: crisp agave aromas, blended with hints of lemon, lime, grapefruit notes Taste: slightly sweet and agave flavour Finish: touch of black pepper; herbaceous undertones
Don Julio Reposado Nose: cooked agave and honey; slight smokiness
+ Visit tidingsmag.com/drinks/ for more drink recipes
Taste: hints of dark chocolate, vanilla, cinnamon Finish: warm with essence of dried fruit
Gran Centenario Reposado Nose: light, fruity, agave Taste: spicy, minty, raisins, caramel Finish: well balanced, slight warm sweet finish
1800 Silver Tequila Nose: slightly vegetal, smoky, hint of agave Taste: citrus and slightly sweet Finish: smooth, but watch out for the high alcohol kick on the finish
waborita
2 oz Cabo Wabo Reposado 2 oz fresh squeezed lime juice 1 oz triple sec Combine ingredients, shake over ice and strain into cocktail glass. Garnish with slice of fresh lime. Option: salt the rim of the glass.
tidingsmag.com
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Can you recommend a wine to go with breakfast? Now, you’re a reader after my own heart: one looking to get a little liquid inspiration during the most important meal of the day. Before we get started, I’d like to avoid any knee-jerk-reaction emails by saying I’m assuming you’re talking about a relaxed weekend breakfast (hopefully in bed) and that you’re not a school bus driver interested in an inspired nip before jumping into your yellow beast and picking up the kiddies. With that foundation firmly hardened, there are the cliché brunch partners to consider. Brunch has always had a way with wine — probably because it gets served closer to the lunch end of the morning than around the time your alarm clock comes to life. Anyway, sparkling and rosé wines wear the alternative-meal hat like a crown. They’re fun, easy drinking and, to be blunt, casual and accommodating enough (whatever you want to say to be polite) to shine when a plate of unconventional is served. But that’s the easy way out — and I’m never about easy. My 2012 take on an early-morning tipple is two-pronged, taking advantage of a duo of vino styles that just happen to be turning the wine world on its ear. Pinotage-based wines from South Africa, with hints of coffee, are so hip it hurts. In fact, there are so many of them you’d almost think that The Cape vineyards are trading in their winemakers for baristas. Smooth, sweet and smoky, with a mouth-filling blend of java, mocha and berry fruit, they make for a funky, finger-on-the-pulse-of-what’s-happening breakfast beverage. On the white side, Moscato is exploding in nuclear proportions. Sure, it’s found its footing in cocktails (see the next question), but as a low-alcohol wine (the average is around 6 per cent) with a gummy, fresh-fruit profile, it makes so much love to a breakfast menu that it’s almost embarrassing. Then again, the Bon Vivant still prefers a Bloody Caesar!
18 // July/August 2012
Any thoughts on a cool, wine-based cocktail? Does wine really need to be cocktailized? Really? I mean, come on folks, wine is the ultimate glass of on-its-own. Why do we need to mix, match or mingle it with anything else? But you asked, so I must tell. My favourite union of spirit and grape juice is a drink that works wonders in the spring, summer and well into the fall. Having spent a lot of time enjoying the hospitality of the Veneto region in northern Italy, I’ve found a place in my heart for the Spritz. This mix of Aperol (a slightly bitter, low-alcohol aperitif often considered the little brother of Campari) with an equal part of the subtly effervescent Prosecco, a splash of sparkling water (keep it Italian) and a few ice cubes, with a circle of orange dropped in for good measure, is a super-refreshing sipper no matter the season. If you love some truly out-of-the-box drinking, try a Reciojito: the delicious Franken-blend of the classic Mojito recipe with a shot of Recioto Della Valpolicella — the sweeter sister of the drier Amarone wine. It’s a fruity knockout that looks killer in the glass and will appeal to the wine lover as well as the mixed-drink aficionado. I mentioned Moscato for breakfast. Try serving it with vodka to create a Moscatini. The sweet nature and low alcohol of the wine works brilliantly well with the neutral spirit. Just combine equal portions of each and garnish with a twist of lemon. Call me old school; I still enjoy the classic union of a teaspoon of France’s Chambord or Cassis (or any berry-fruited liqueur you may have around the house) and a glass of whatever sparkling or white wine is available. It makes for a refreshing combination that is as easy to make as it is to drink.
+ Ask your questions at bonvivant@tidingsmag.com
Illustration: Matt Daley/Shinypliers.com
bon vivant early to rise and cocktailizing\\ by peter rockwell
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the long hangover
There’s nothing I enjoy more than seeing a politician confess to a crime. I am especially titillated when the offence in question relates to sex, drugs or (in this case) booze. It makes it even juicier when the lawmaker/law-breaker makes his fatal admission in the House of Commons itself, thus sparing a journalist like me the trouble of actually investigating anything. All the proof we need is splattered right there on the Parliamentary record. by Matthew Sullivan
Ladies and gentlemen, you will be shocked (shocked!) when you read the Hansard transcript of MP Scott Reid from last December: “I was on the wine trail in the Saint-Jean region of Quebec. I was on the wine trail from Nova Scotia back to Ontario. I inadvertently, and unknowingly illegally, brought back some Quebec wine … That should not have happened … Speaking of another illegal wine drinking experience I had at one point, some friends went to Nova Scotia, brought back sparkling wine … from Jost [Vineyards]. We enjoyed it together in Ontario illegally and unknowingly.” Yes, your eyes are not deceiving you: the Honourable Member from Lanark-Frontenac confessed to illegally and unknowingly drinking wine from Jost. “Is Jost Vineyards so bad?” you demand. Of course not. In fact, Scott Reid’s confession is something of an endorsement for their bubbly. What he’s actually confessing to is breaching the Importation of Intoxicating Liquors Act. This federal law prohibits anyone except a provincial liquor board (like the LCBO or the NSLC) from transporting wine, beer or spirits across a provincial boundary. This is not a trivial rule — it’s a criminal offence and on your third conviction, you’re liable to a minimum sentence of six months in the clink. Scott Reid is in good company. Anyone who’s ever lived in Ottawa and snuck across to Gatineau to raid the SAQ (a group which I suspect includes many politicians and Federal Court judges) has also flaunted this law. So has every traveller who’s journeyed to the beautiful Okanagan and returned to Toronto or Montreal with a couple bottles stowed in their luggage. It also throws a stumbling block in the path of every quality-minded winery in Canada, because it forbids them from shipping their wines to wine lovers in different provinces.
20 // July/August 2012
“It is an ancient law from 1928 that has no place in modern Canadian society,” Mark Hicken told me. Mark is perhaps Canada’s foremost expert in wine law and the principal lawyer of Vancouver’s Vintage Law Group. He calls the Importation of Intoxicating Liquors Act part of Canada’s “long hangover from Prohibition” and says that getting rid of it is the “number one” area for reform. “It’s the single most frustrating issue for wineries ... The shipping issue prevents them from growing their businesses. That was the case in the United States, but they began fixing their issues 10 or 15 years ago, and their wineries can service most of the country, though there are still some frustrations and hurdles.”
The US experience is instructive. Direct shipping accounts for only about one per cent of the wine market south of the border. However, the small boutique-quality wineries depend on mail order wines to keep themselves afloat. “These wines need direct shipping to reach their market,” says Mark. Without the law, these wineries could devote themselves to quality, knowing that there are connoisseurs across Canada who will snap up their best product. There is an increasing appetite for change. “We’ve got a growing wine industry. Because it is starting to get international recognition, there is a push within the industry for change,” says Mark. “And there’s a push from the consumer end to increase value and selection. We are in an e-commerce world, because you can order anything you want online.” Because of the pressure from all directions, there are cracks beginning to appear in the antiquated legal regime. illustration: FRancesco Gallé, www.francescogalle.com
For example, the Ontario’s LCBO recently released a “policy” advising the public that they will allow the importation into Ontario of small amounts of wine for personal use. This is a nice gesture, but it is unclear how a provincial body like the LCBO can suspend the functioning of a valid criminal law like the Importation Act. That’s something only Parliament can do. Which brings us back to the Conservative MP Scott Reid. He gave his felonious confession to express his support for Bill C-311, which will amend the Act to allow the importation and shipping of wine for personal use. It’s a Private Member’s Bill that was introduced by Dan Albas, the Conservative MP for Okanagan-Coquihalla in British Columbia. Mr Albas argued for the Bill by saying, “Imagine if cars built in Ontario could not be sold in British Columbia. What if prized Nova
Scotia lobster could not be sent directly to all households across Canada? This is the reality for many of the small Canadian wine producers.” Private Members Bills rarely get the institutional support to make the long and tedious journey into law, but Bill C-311 has a fighting chance. It’s nourished with broad grassroots advocacy (see freemygrapes.ca), and MPs from the Liberal, NDP and the Green Party have spoken in its favour. At the time of writing, the Bill was headed to the Standing Committee for Finance to hear from experts about its pros and cons before moving to a third reading in the House of Commons. As one MP said, the Bill is “righting an age-old wrong and getting rid of an old anachronism that does not really apply in our time.” Is Canada’s wine industry finally shaking off a 90-year hangover? •
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s a s ES: When did you realize you wanted to be
a winemaker?
SAS: When I was 16. From that point
onwards, my schooling was very focused on anything to do with grapes, wines and the Canadian wine industry.
ES: Which wineries have you worked for
by Evan Saviolidis
in Niagara? SAS: I started my winemaking career at Pillitteri Estates Winery where I completed the challenging 1996 vintage. I then vinified all the wines from 1997 to 2005. I was wooed away from Pillitteri by the 20 Bees startup, producing the 2006 and 2007 vintages there. After the original management of 20 Bees fell into demise, I promptly went back home to my family’s century old vineyard, so as to start my own winery. The first vintage was 2008. Upon starting Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery, I was also pleasantly coerced into vinifying the wines for Megalomaniac (John Howard Cellars of Distinction). Overseeing production for the two wineries for the past three and a half years has been challenging, but I wouldn’t have it any other way. ES: What would you want to be if you
weren’t a winemaker?
SAS: Easy: a gin master or a chocolatier, in
that order. It’s about making something delicious that makes people happy!
I still remember the first time I met Sue-Ann Staff. It was the autumn of 2001 and I had just been bestowed the position of Niagara correspondent for Tidings. As part of my newfound duties, I was at Pillitteri Estate Winery tasting through her portfolio of impressive 1998 and 1999 reds, whites and stickies. As the tasting progressed, our conversation extended into the realm of food. I quickly discovered that SAS (as I like to call her) was a lover of foie gras. As fate would have it, I had just driven back from Montreal with an ice chest full of Quebecois goodies, including a lobe of grade A duck liver. Thirty minutes later we were eating seared duck goodness with one of her Icewines. Needless to say, a bond was created that day. Eleven years and a whole slew of awards and accolades later, including the honour of being the first female to win Winemaker of the Year at the Ontario Wine Awards, SAS gave me a chance to catch up with her for a little Q and A as she enjoyed a rare day off at her winery/family home in Vineland. Unfortunately, there was no duck love to be had.
22 // July/August 2012
ES: What is your favourite grape? SAS: Shiraz, since I named my cat after it! I
love a dry, rich, aged Shiraz from either Australia or the Northern Rhône. If your teeth are not as black as my cat when the bottle is done, it was unworthy. ES: What are your favourite red and white
grapes to grow in Ontario? Why? SAS: For red it is Cabernet Franc, which I
believe is highly under-appreciated. It is the most suitable Bordeaux red for our
s a
climate (winter hardy, ripens well in cooler years) and when ripe and appropriately cropped, it is stellar. For white, it is Riesling … 100 per cent Riesling, without a doubt. Good luck getting me to change my mind! Its versatility makes it a dream to vinify. Its reflection of the terroir is literally a mirror image. You can’t fake Riesling. It either has the benefit of being grown on a great site or it doesn’t. Niagara’s Twenty Valley was created for Riesling. ES: To date, what is your favourite wine
Due to me consulting for Megalomaniac (John Howard Cellars of Distinction), I am also able to liaise with its sister property, Château La Confession in Saint-Émilion, co-owned by Mr Howard and the Janiouex family. Touring the wineries of the right bank with them is purely a luxurious treat.
France. It was a large serving of the best duck ravioli with the richest foie gras sauce imaginable. Oh my God! I ate every crumb. The wine was a fabulous 1999 Pomerol. Complete blissful gluttony. ES: What else do you like, besides foie
gras? SAS: Chocolate! (Is that a food? Who
ES: What are your opinions in regards to
really cares!)
the future of the Ontario wine industry? SAS: It has a very strong future. Our
ES: What are your thoughts on beer?
customers are our greatest strength. They believe in the wines and champion them to their circles of friends and colleagues. It is extremely satisfying. However, I am concerned about several new startup wineries. If you are not fully committed to producing 100% quality, cannot offer something new, interesting and fabulous to the wine community that hasn’t already been done, are not keen to figure out why an apple blossoms, why wheat is planted in the fall, or how to grow great tulip bulbs, then you should buy a cottage in Muskoka instead of growing grapes and opening a winery.
SAS: An ice cold Bud Light on a hot
that you have made? Why? SAS: Oh, this question tears me apart … to pick one! Ouch, I can’t. I have to pick three. a) 1997 Cabernet Franc from Pillitteri Estates. This wine launched the concept that there were great reds at Pillitteri and that I was a quality winemaker. It won “Best Limited Edition Red” at Cuvée and I overheard principals from a competing winery say, “Pillitteri? They don’t make good reds. Did Sue-Ann make that?” I thought to myself, “Ha! We’re on to something! Wait until they see what is in barrel — the 1998 Bordeaux reds.” They went on to become the top three rated reds in Canada. b) 2009 Robert’s Block Riesling from Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery, solely because it was evidence that my strength not only lies with producing great reds and Icewine. This wine was scored 90 or greater by every writer that reviewed it and sold out in a flash. I’m reluctant to launch the 2011 — I want to keep it! c) 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Proprietor’s Reserve from Megalomaniac. You’ll have to wait for it but … yikes! When I taste it, I truly think, “Did I make this?” It is a masculine, muscular monster.
ES: What projects/new wines are in the
ES: What wine region would you like to
ES: What is your greatest food and wine
summer day is as far as I go. I am not the typical winemaker that follows the rule, “To make a lot of good wine, you have to drink a lot of great beer.” ES: Favourite actor? SAS: George Clooney — he is delicious. ES: Favourite TV show? SAS: The Amazing Race! How do I get on
it? And who do I partner with? ES: Favourite Movie? SAS: The Sound of Music and Top Gun
(what a contrast!) pipeline for SAS Winery and JHCD?
ES: When not at work, what do you do to
SAS: Both wineries are up for additions this
unwind?
year. The retail here at Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery will be expanded with patios constructed all around the kitchen wing. This will provide for an outdoor bar and group seating/tastings in appropriate weather. At Megalomaniac, we are bursting at the seams, and are anticipating a fabulous upper level, complete with retail shop, laboratory and additional production space. I can’t wait for both. A repertoire of new wines makes it all very exciting.
SAS: I literally have had very little time to
visit and why?
moment?
SAS: The new favourite is Saint-Émilion.
SAS: Sadly, it was by myself, in the south of
unwind in the last three and a half years. To rectify that, I’m off to Panama, Peru and Bolivia in a few months to walk the Inca Trail, follow the Amazon River and take in some sun rays (and get eaten alive by mosquitoes, I hear). I do like to sneak off to the slopes and a golf course here and there. ES: Describe your ideal man? SAS: Unwed and childless ... still! My ideal
man doesn’t have dirty laundry, doesn’t want to share closet space and wants me to drive his yellow convertible Corvette. Giggle. •
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It’s a brisk, chilly morning, the fresh fallen snow blanketing the empty parking lot and tidy vineyards surrounding the winery. But it’s bright, sunny, and all things considered, a glorious day to be out and about tasting Icewine. I have been in this parking lot a few times. I have peered into the windows of the darkened tasting room to the left and the trophy room to the right. I have rung the bell many times, just as the note on the window instructs visitors to do. It has always made me curious. Is anyone home? Royal DeMaria is the most curious of wineries in Niagara. The owner, Joseph DeMaria, shot to superstardom on the strength of a litany (and I mean a boatload!) of international wine awards and trophies, in particular for his Chardonnay Icewine 2000. His Icewines, which are all he makes, have achieved a level of recognition, at least outside Canada, that others can only dream of. International magazines, newspapers and the internet have all spread the word that something very exciting is happening at his unique winery, and for those willing to pay the price (we’ll get to that, but how does $250,000 for a half bottle sound?), you, too, can taste a piece of the dream. So, I wonder, why isn’t his place crawling with wine lovers seeking this sweet nectar of the Gods? Why are there no footsteps in the snow leading to the hustle and bustle of an international tasting room that smells of apricot jam and buckwheat honey? It is a question many ask. But the answer is not so simple.
Let’s go back a bit.
Joseph DeMaria is a hairdresser by trade. He had a successful business in Toronto, but after tasting a Niagara Icewine back in 1991, he was bitten by the wine bug.
24 // July/August 2012
DeMaria bought a winery licence in 1994 and purchased his 25-acre property, at the time with 15 acres planted to Vidal and Riesling grapes, in Beamsville, Ontario. The initial idea was to sell bulk Icewine to the Asian market. He struck a deal to sell his juice in 1997, but the Asian market tanked in 1998, and DeMaria, who had no idea how to actually make wine, was left with a dilemma — sell the juice at a major loss, or keep it and try his hand at winemaking. He chose the latter, bought a book on how to make wine, and went about the tricky business of turning 5,000 litres of grape juice into Vidal Icewine. To listen to his partner, Charlene Stephenson, tell it, DeMaria, “missed a part in the book” and thought his first effort at making Icewine was all for naught. “Joseph thought ‘If I don’t do this, I don’t think we can make it,’ ” said Stephenson. As legend would have it, DeMaria made a “blind correction” to the Vidal Icewine and saved the batch of wine and his budding business. But not only that — he inadvertently stumbled on the secret to the Royal DeMaria recipe. That correction produced a wine, in Stephenson’s words, that was less viscous, with more natural acidity and balance than other Niagara sweeties. That first revolutionary wine went on to win five international awards, and Royal DeMaria has continued to make every Icewine on the property in the same “secret” way. A secret, by the way, that he’s not about to share with the industry. “As much as I’d love to tell you, it’s our trademark,” he says as we sit and chat at his kitchen table in his home above the winery on this chilly late-winter day. “We keep [the recipe] to ourselves.” He says what makes his Icewines a cut above the others, and why they fetch such phenomenal prices on the international market, is the balance. “You don’t get the cloying effect. The wines are always balanced and not as syrupy and always elegant,” DeMaria explains. “Our trademark is more refined, elegant, robust and higher-quality Icewines.”
Now, about those prices.
Royal DeMaria uses a pure and simple concept for pricing: supply and demand. All his wines, up to 24 different varieties in three tiers — Winter Harvest (non-VQA and the least expensive), Estate (which becomes the Collector’s Series as wines are awarded prizes) and Billy Myers (the cream of the crop) — are made in tiny quantities. As the awards trickle in and supplies dwindle, the price increases.
k by Rick VanSic
Even on release, some of DeMaria’s wines sell for two or three times the next highest price per bottle of any other Niagara wine, Icewine or otherwise. The wine that put DeMaria on the map, the one that landed him on the front page of the local papers and was repeated in hundreds of newspapers (even the Wine Spectator), was his 2000 Chardonnay Icewine. After it reeled in its fifth consecutive gold medal from Les Citadelles du Vin at VinExpo in Bordeaux from 2002 to 2006 and was deemed one of the top 10 Chardonnays in the world at Chardonnay-du-Monde in France — winning top wine three years in a row — the original price of the wine, $75, started climbing exponentially. Within a year it was selling for $150, then $2,000. The last bottle sold was in 2006, to a Saudi prince who paid $30,000 for a half bottle after a shadowy deal conducted in Central Park in New York City by representatives for both parties. “People were saying we were the Versace of wine,” laughs DeMaria. “No one had done this before, increased the prices,” he added. There are 18 bottles left. DeMaria puts a price of $250,000 on the next bottle, and the price will go up until the last bottle sells for $500,000. That’s a half million dollars for one half-bottle of Canadian Icewine — by far the most expensive price ever placed on a bottle of wine. Even more than a 1947 Château Cheval Blanc, thought to be the greatest wine ever made, which sold at auction for $304,375.
Does DeMaria expect to sell even one more bottle?
“It depends on how crazy someone is to pay that much,” he says, displaying a big, mischievous smile. “It’s all about having it.” I am not sure if I should be taking him seriously. Does he truly believe that someone will ever pay $500,000 for a bottle of wine that people know so little about? De-
le
Maria says there are those in this world that will pay any amount of money for the very best of anything, the kind of people “with the world’s biggest yachts with gold toilets. Yes, it will happen.” I have not tasted the Chardonnay 2000, the wine that laid the golden egg, and the wine that could potentially (using DeMaria’s math) bring in $4.5 million when it’s all said and done. Think about that. It’s mind-boggling. Here is a wine that, for the most part, flew under the radar in Canada, did not place well at any major domestic wine competition judged before the most qualified Icewine judges in the world, yet goes on to win five times in a row in international competitions.
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DeMaria puts a price of $250,000 on the next bottle, and the price will go up until the last bottle sells for $500,000.
DeMaria made a “blind correction” to the Vidal Icewine and saved the batch of wine and his budding business.
I put the numbers to Tony Aspler, Canada’s foremost wine critic, judge and the man who runs the Ontario Wine Awards. Aspler, like most people I spoke to for this story, has never tried the DeMaria Chardonnay Icewine 2000. No DeMaria wine has won at the Ontario Wine Awards competition, even though many of his wines have been submitted. Aspler says DeMaria “either has a lot of chutzpah or he’s a complete nut” for selling wines at those prices. “Or he’s a marketing genius,” he adds after a long pause. Aspler believes that DeMaria has created a lot of animosity in Ontario for his “Barnum and Bailey” approach to selling wine. “Wine is expensive enough without jacking up the price to sell one bottle,” he says. DeMaria vehemently disagrees with that. “It’s brought a lot of attention to Niagara,” he says. “We should be working together, moving forward. If we work together, we grow together.” DeMaria says it has been a strained relationship with his winemaking brethren in Niagara who just don’t understand his pricing strategies because they go against the grain of the way most do business. “It’s a love-hate relationship,” he says. “Should they put a cape on me? No. But if I were American, I’d be a superstar.” In the trophy room at the Royal DeMaria winery, Charlene Stephenson is showing off a glittery array of some 300 awards and prizes Royal DeMaria wines have garnered. The room is adorned with medallions, glass trophies, plaques, certificates and awards of
26 // July/August 2012
all shapes and sizes, some much more prestigious than others, but nonetheless some very important and legitimate hardware. They share space with bottles that are all decked out with multiple stick-on awards, including a six-pack of wines Queen Elizabeth requested from DeMaria during her Jubilee visit to Canada in 2002, which, by the way, you can purchase for $275,000. Next door to the trophy room is the tasting bar, a sparsely adorned enclave with newspaper clippings of DeMaria’s achievements hung on the walls. On a blackboard is the shocking pricelist of the wines both for current releases and those that have been raking in awards and climbing dramatically in price as the recognition flows in. Talk about sticker shock. Forgetting for a moment the one that sticks out above all the others — the $250,000 Chardonnay 2000 — there’s also the “world’s first” Meritage Icewine 2002 on sale for $18,000, Pinot Gris 2000 for $13,000, Winter Harvest Muscat Ottonel 2002 for $11,000, Gamay 2000 for $9,000 and on down the list. Even newer vintages are staggeringly expensive: Winter Harvest (remember, this is a wine that failed to get the VQA stamp of approval) Malbec 2006 for $750, Winter Harvest Petit Verdot 2006 $650, and on and on. Stephenson starts pulling out the current release and sets up seven glasses. She pours tiny amounts into chunky flute style glassware and I begin tasting. The Riesling 2008 ($75) shows citrus, honey, tan-
gerine and spice; the Gewürztraminer 2008 ($90) is varietally correct with spicy lychee and honey; the Winter Harvest Chardonnay 2007 ($219) shows fleshy pear and is rich and textured in the mouth; the Cabernet Franc 2008 ($90) shows raspberry and strawberry fruit; and the rest of the wines are, well, so-so. The eight wines are decent but all had a bit of a soapy-musk taste, which I will chalk up to improperly washed glasses. But at these prices, I was expecting to have my socks knocked off. I’m sorry, but they just weren’t. I had been trying to track down the hard-to-reach DeMaria for a while. I sent out the odd probing tweet wondering aloud about the wines made at DeMaria and if anyone had tried them before. As a result, I received an email from, well, let’s just call him John (he’s a fairly big wine collector
in Toronto and didn’t want his name used). He wanted to get together and share a bottle of Royal DeMaria Gewürztraminer 2000 he had bought in 2002 for $65. John is from Toronto but spent time in California in the high-tech business before moving back about a decade ago. Royal DeMaria’s wines appealed to him and his wife because he had heard about the awards they were winning and had an “affinity for family-oriented wineries.” John and his wife are fans of Royal DeMaria, but were certainly surprised when I told them their $65 bottle had grown to $8,000. We met at a downtown Toronto restaurant and happily tasted the well-aged treasure. The wine, simply put, was stunning, a beautiful example of the variety as it ages. It was rich, layered and lush with super-concentrated peach compote, tertiary caramel notes and exotic spices. And it has retained some of that freshness that DeMaria claims is his trademark. It is a gorgeous wine at its original price of $65, heck even $100. But the question remains: is half a bottle of Niagara Icewine worth $8,000? Or $30,000? Or $250,000? To a great many people, that’s just a really silly question. •
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Accidental Brewers by crystal luxmore
28 // July/August 2012
Let’s talk beer: specifically, four brewing mavericks who are fuelling the resurgence of the craft movement in their hometowns. Some, like Ellen Bounsall at Montreal’s McAuslan, were early pioneers of craft brewing, while others, like Steve Cavan of Paddock Wood in Saskatoon, have been at it for less than a decade. What each has in common (besides a gift for the art and science of making beer) is that they got into brewing by accident.
You like to cook. What’s your signature dish? I like keeping things simple — letting the main speak for itself, like a tomato salad with buffalo cheese. What’s your secret to getting such big flavour from your beers? We look around at what other people are doing and then we experiment. For our Megadestroyer Licorice Imperial Stout it was tricky to get its big liquorice bite — I
brewmaster’s selections
Pumpkineater Imperial Pumpkin Ale: We wanted this beer to taste as
though you’re drinking a pumpkin pie — so to our 8 per cent brew we added pumpkin and a special blend of spices including cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg and star anise. It’s great over vanilla ice cream.
Pothole Filler Imperial Stout:
This 9 per cent imperial stout is full of flavour and inky black in colour with a prominent roasted coffee aroma. It is one intense beer and can stand up to chocolate desserts, well-aged cheddar and oysters.
Ellen Bounsall
Franco Corno
On track to becoming a public policy wonk, Franco Corno’s career path took a turn when his university buddy, Dave Fenn, called him to say he was starting a brewery in Squamish, and asked if the native British Columbian wanted to make the beer. Corno apprenticed under John Mitchell, a pioneer of modern-day microbrewing in Canada, before taking the reins at Howe Sound Inn and Brewing Company. Now, 11 years later, his brewery is making waves for its extreme beers — full flavour, high alcohol brews that come in one-litre bottles with a swing top for re-capping. Where’s your favourite country (or place) in which to drink beer? I’m a hophead, so Oregon, California and Portland. The West Coast is really big into the hops — the further east you go, the less hoppy, and the more malty, sour or Belgian beers you get.
thought of using a little bit of liquorice root and star anise in the secondary fermentation phase, but wasn’t sure if it would be strong enough. So I tried the mix in an ounce of vodka, waited a couple of hours, and the flavour was incredible so I knew it was alcohol soluble. The beer’s a hit — we can’t brew enough of the stuff. What music do you play when you’re brewing? The pub’s right beside me, so whatever they’re playing. But I like U2 and a lot of indie stuff. What do you do when you’re not brewing? I live 20 kilometres north of Squamish in the woods, so I go for lots of hikes and walks. I also play squash and golf. At least I try to — it rains a lot here. If you weren’t a brewer what would you be? I was doing a public administration program at the University of Victoria when I started brewing, so probably a bureaucrat.
When her beer aficionado husband, Peter McAuslan, quit his job to start one of Montreal’s first microbreweries in 1988, Ellen Bounsall swore she wasn’t going to get involved. “But once the equipment arrived and Peter was busy doing things with banks and lawyers it became very obvious that he wasn’t going to have time to do the brewing,” says Bounsall. Plus, having graduated with a degree in microbiology, Bounsall found herself fascinated by the science of brewing. Now, 34 years later, the pair have built McAuslan from a 5,000 litre micro to an 80,000 hectolitre powerhouse. What do you love about brewing? I think I enjoy most when the product is going through fermentation, and all the incredibly dramatic changes [that are] going on from hour to hour, which are all the result of happy healthy yeast just working away digesting the things it needs to survive, and that it loves. Is brewing more art, or more science? Science. Clearly, brewing beer is not that difficult; what’s difficult is producing a consistent product, and that’s impossible without a strong appreciation of biochemistry and microbiology. You’ve worked side-by-side with your husband every day for the last 34 years — how are you not divorced yet? Actually, even longer than that! He was my boss at the community college before we both quit to start McAuslan. From the start
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Garrison Black IPA 6.2%, Nova Scotia ($4.25/500 ml)
Deep, opaque amber in colour with hoppy/malty aromas combined with suggestions of mocha, roasted coffee bean and fruitcake. Rich, roasted malt flavours with hints of sultana; long, hoppy finish.
Tree Brewing Co. Hop Head Double IPA 8.4%, BC ($5.35/600 ml)
Full, forward hop nose laced with mild spice, orange rind and a subtle herbaceous quality. Assertive and slightly hot on the palate with integrated hop and malt flavours and a refreshing sweet/spice interplay. Nicely balanced with a long finish.
Beau’s All Natural Brewing Co. Beaver River I.P. Eh? 5.6%, Ontario ($4.35/600 ml) Grain, malt, nutmeg and hops on the nose give way to similar flavours. An underlying citrus fruit component adds complexity as do subtle suggestions of mint and pine.
Microbrasserie Charlevoix Sainte-Reserve Lupulus 10%, Quebec ($11.65)
A beer that seems to defy categorization (though brew master Fredrick Tremblay has said that “triple IPA” might be the most accurate “…if it really matters.”), it is at once hoppy, fruity and potent. Boasting a very complex aromatic profile, it shows clove, grapefruit, tangerine and cardamom mixed in with more familiar hop and grain components. Rich, complex and just slightly boozy on the palate with a long, lingering final note reminiscent of pumpkin pie.
Lake of Bays Brewing Company Limited Mocha Porter 5.2%, Ontario ($8.95)
Almost black in colour, this mocha porter is the espresso of beer. Dark chocolate, liquorice, toasted malt and burnt sugar aromas follow though to a dry, assertive palate that suggests dark roast coffee beans, high cocoa dark chocolate and a touch of herbal bitters. Dry and firm on the finish.
Black Creek Historic Brewery Porter 5%, Ontario ($3.55/500 ml)
Following the historic techniques, tools and traditions employed by Ontario brewers in the 1860s, Black Creek Historic Brewery eschews refrigeration, pasteurization and other modern “improvements” to the brewing process. The smoky/toasty aroma also shows traces of buckwheat honey, anise and espresso. A lighter-bodied porter, it is gently malty and smooth on the palate, finishing with a refreshing dryness and hint of bitterness.
Grand River Brewing Russian Gun Imperial 8%, Ontario ($4.95/500 ml)
Black and brooding, this powerful stout is in some ways similar to the Black Creek offering with chocolate, mocha and roasted malt aromas figuring prominently. Things are a bit different in the mouth. The overall impression is a brew that’s rich, less tart and with a distinctively sweet edge. Loads of rich coffee flavours enhance the long, silky finish.
Railway City Brewing Company Iron Spike Blonde 4.3%, Ontario ($2.40/473 ml)
An aromatic brew featuring toasty oatmeal, citrus zest, a hint of honey and some biscuit overtones. Full-flavoured and malty with a nice balance of hop and malt combining with toasted grain and fruity/floral notes that linger on the long, clean finish. At once crisp and refreshing yet flavourful and moderately complex. ……
All beers were tasted by contributing editor, Tod Stewart.
30 // July/August 2012
our roles complemented each other’s: he’s an outgoing, personable guy who really loves being out there representing his product, and I’m a lot shyer and [happier] behind the scenes. What’s your beer stash like? We have a cellar that is half wine, half beer. Plus a full-sized fridge dedicated to keeping beer cold. Our cellar beers are a mix of our annual Vintage Ales, Scotch Ale and Russian Imperial Stout. Our Vintage Ale is a barley wine, and we have a few bottles from every vintage we’ve made since the mid ‘90s. The beers’ flavours become more complex over time, so we love to open a couple of different vintages in front of a warm fire on a Sunday afternoon. And what about the vino? I enjoy a good bottle of wine as well. We’re part of the Opimian Society, so all the wine is from there — it’s fun. And Peter’s a good Scot so we have a nice little whiskey collection we’ve acquired from our travels there. Are you still enjoying the brewing? Yes, for us it’s been a lifestyle. It hasn’t been work, it’s been an absolute pleasure. Thinking back on the things we’ve achieved, the trips we’ve taken — everything we do surrounds beer. It is our whole life, beyond the dogs. The dogs? Yes, we have seven — they’re all rescue dogs of different shapes and sizes. brewmaster’s selections
St Ambroise Pale Ale: A classic in the style of Pale ales, this rich amber beer with its dense creamy head remains my personal favourite. It is a wonderful balance of clean hop bitterness, sweet malt flavour and spicy citrus aroma, which linger on your palate long after the last sip. Given its boldness, it is a wonderful accompaniment to spicy Indian, Thai or Italian cuisine.
Has your background in ancient Greek poetry and philosophy influenced how you approach beer making? Only in that I know how to research, so when I wanted to start brewing I just went into research mode and hit the library to teach myself about brewing, fermentation and science. I became an egghead. How many styles do you brew a year? It’s pretty ridiculous. At any given time we’ve got 12 different beers happening — four or five core brands plus three seasonals and a bunch of one-offs for special events like the Shakespeare Film Festival.
St Ambroise Oatmeal Stout:
Is that a good business strategy? For a craft brewery, yes. Diversity is our power. Because we only brew a 1000-litre batch we can do multiple styles of beer and not worry about selling 100,000 bottles of the stuff.
A delicious, aromatic and intensely black beer which is a delight to brew. St Ambroise Oatmeal Stout was the second in our family of products. Along with its creamy mocha head and silky texture one finds the bitterness of espresso balanced with the sweetness of chocolate. It is a treasure to sip in front of the fire or matched with a rich chocolate or raspberry dessert.
that I’m doing what I’m doing. But in high school, when I was underage, about 17, my mom said to me, “If you want beer, you’re going to have to make it — I’m not buying it for you.” So I got a beer kit and did it at home. Then I wrote a how-to article for the school paper. They were not impressed. That story got the paper shut down. What’s the book that changed the way you look at your craft? Randy Mosher’s Radical Brewing — that whole approach is kind of what we do here. Our approach is to be creative, have fun and take chances. Like we’re doing a witbier but it’s being made with hibiscus, so it’ll be bright red. brewmaster’s selections
606: This is my go-to beer. Its moderate malt and caramel depth is balanced by a
Steve Cavan
When Steve Cavan followed his wife from Peterborough to Saskatoon to begin a teaching career in classics and philosophy, he was heartbroken that his new province had zero microbreweries. So he started homebrewing, and soon he was importing and selling ingredients from his basement. Eleven years later, when he started selling beer-making kits, he found he had to apply for the same license that a microbrewery needs, so he started selling a few hundred bottles of his own small batch brews from the shop. Today, after breaking through a slew of bureaucratic barriers, Paddock Wood is bottling flats of 25 cases per hour, brewing about 26 inventive beers annually — and is still the only microbrewery in the province.
You’re the only microbrewery in Saskatchewan — are you expecting competition? For a long time I was, but not anymore. Alberta has much more favourable tax rates on beer production, so you can save yourself a bundle by operating 100 kilometres further west. Were you interested in making stuff or experimenting with food as a child? No. In some ways it’s a complete surprise
refreshing citrus and grapefruit hop bitterness and flavour. The British yeast adds a nuance of fruit, creating a “Buffalo Springfield” effect — “Something’s happening here, what it is, ain’t exactly clear.”
Czech Mate: An old-style Pilsner, which means lots of hops. We crank up the bitterness to 40 IBU, but the effect here is a crisp dryness. It’s a clean beer with slightly herbal Czech Saaz hops. tidingsmag.com
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salad is always surprising. And barley wine with foie gras is phenomenal. Phenomenal! Once or twice a year I take a piece of foie gras and barley wine with some French bread and I’m in paradise. Established 1982
Family Estate
You’re very passionate about brewing — have you ever found romantic passion through beer? I made a barley wine for a wine festival in Moncton and I gave my card to a woman whose husband wanted to buy our beer for a business event, but her friend took the card, put her phone number on it and handed it back to me, saying “If you’re this passionate with your beer, you can be passionate with love.” Later I told my friend, ‘I might be naïve, but I’m not stupid,’ and I called her a couple of days later. My wife and I have been together ever since.
Daniel Girard •Wine Sensory Garden • •Open 7 Days a Week • • Award Winning Icewines • • Artisanal Cheese and Gifts • • Legacy Tours in Season • • VQA Wine Bar and Boutique • 1 5 6 0 8 n ia g a ra r i ve r p a r k wa y n ia g ara - o n - t h e - l a ke c a na d a 9 0 5 - 4 6 8-W INE (946 3 )
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@reifwinery facebook.com/ReifEstateWinery
Quebec City native Daniel Girard quit his job at a brewing equipment manufacturer in Tokyo to train as a brewmaster for Ginga Kogen Beer, one of his former customers. Then after studying to be a master brewer with 17 others at the prestigious VLB Berlin, he chose to work at Pumphouse Brewery in Moncton, as it was close to home. After eight years he was lured away by Brian Titus, owner of Garrison Brewing in Halifax, Nova Scotia. Under his watch Garrison was awarded Brewery of the Year at the 2011 Canadian Brewing Awards. Part artist, part scientist, Girard’s passion for brewing is contagious. How did your time in Japan influence your brewing style? I learned two things. The first is the language of business: I come from an arts background, but working as a salesman there I soaked up the strong business approach that the Japanese have. Now I can talk numbers with my bosses here. The second: I learned how to work in an extremely clean manner. Anyone who works with me knows how fastidious I am. We never touch anything that will touch the product. You lead a lot of beer and food dinners. What are your go-to pairings? Stout and chocolate cake: one of the absolutes, it always works. Witbier with a
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Where does your inspiration for recipes come from? Often from things that happen in my life. I was at a wedding in Switzerland and there was a bay tree in the backyard, I said, “Oh! It smells so good.” I picked a leaf, cracked it, and the impression I had was unbelievable. I knew I could make a beer with that. brewmaster’s selections
Spruce Beer: My goal was to
reproduce to the taste and means of the day the alcoholic drink that was made by our first settlers here in Halifax. I used molasses, which was the main source of sugar for all purposes then, with spruce and fir shoots to balance the sweetness. With a rich, complex nose of earth, wood and brown sugar, and flavours of molasses, caramel, dark fruits, spruce, alcohol and a piney bitterness, this beer is great with oven roasted hen or chicken, barbecue, and beef stew.
Imperial IPA: This strongly-hopped and medium-bodied ale is beloved enough to have been twice named the Canadian Beer of the Year at the Canadian Brewing Awards. Dark orange and hazy, its unfiltered brew has an intense aroma of grapefruit, tangerine and pine with a biscuit and malt sweetness. Drink with any hot and spicy dish — Thai, Cajun, Mexican and Indian all work well. •
old school Beer
has been brewed organically for thousands of years. Ninkasi, the Sumerian goddess of beer, was said to have been head brew master to the gods. Inscribed on a clay tablet from 1800 BC are details of her ancient recipe. When beer first came to Canada, along with its European masters, grains grew in abundance without the widespread aid of artificial agents. Most towns had at least one independent brewery serving the local area. Limited technology kept farming and beer production small-scale. Industrial farming and enhanced shipping practices allowed grains to travel farther from the farm, adding to the carbon footprint. Much later on, concern over pesticide use and food safety (among other things) spawned the organic and “eat local” movements. Demand for these organic beers has resulted in greater choice for discerning consumers. by Merle Rosenstein
nelson brewing company tradition with a twist
Nelson Brewing Company (or NBC) produces seven fullflavoured certified organic ales, reflecting the spirit of Nelson in BC’s West Kootenay Region. As brew master Mike Kelly said, “Nelson is considered to be a very organic-oriented or natural place to begin with. There are a lot of people here who are very progressive.”
Kelly begins with original recipes and alters these to complement the character of the town and the other beers on offer. He added toasted hemp seeds to a German style called Kölsch to create the popular Harvest Moon Organic Hemp Ale. According to Kelly, “Hemp seeds seemed like a fit for Nelson, which is a kind of a natural food-hippy-organic kind of place.” With that type of connection to place, Kelly has established a following around Nelson and across BC.
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The decision to start Beau’s Brewery was made over a pint of beer.
Beau’s Matthew O’Hara
Collaborating with an organic coffee roaster, Kelly created a mocha doppelboch — a sweet, malty German style lager — by adding cocoa and coffee. Released on Valentine’s Day, this new brew is called Stimulator Mocha Bock. NBC uses mainly Canadian-grown organic barley from Saskatchewan and Alberta, malted in Armstrong, BC. The organic hops originate from Germany, Belgium, Washington State, Oregon and a small quantity come from British Columbia. When asked which beer he prefers, Kelly says, “It depends on what situation I’m in. For example, if I’ve just finished playing hockey, I like to have Harvest Moon, which is very light and refreshing and goes really well when you are hot and have just done some exercise. And when it’s snowy and cold, I like our Faceplant Winter Ale — it is a stronger, darker beer but it’s not too bitter and not too heavy.”
mill street brewery first in ontario
Creating the first certified organic beer in Ontario in 2002, Mill Street Brewery has a stable of non-organic brews including a coffee porter, wheat beers, a helles bock and pale ales. Named “Canadian Brewery of the Year” in 2007, 2008 and 2009, Mill
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Street Brewery is located in Toronto’s historic Distillery District, where they built a brewpub in 2006. A second brewpub in Ottawa opened January 27, 2012. The Original Organic Lager was designed with lower alcohol content for the selective consumer. “It’s for someone who is health-conscious and isn’t drinking beer solely as a source of alcohol (although it is part of the fun!),” said brew master Joel Manning. The 100% barley malt beer “is a tapestry woven from a large number of very small flavours so that it has wide-ranging use and appeal,” he goes on to say. The inspiration behind the beers comes from Manning’s passions, and the preferences of customers. Mill Street Brewery buys malted barley from Canada Malting’s certified organic processing plants in Vancouver, Washington, and has started contracting directly with farmers in Saskatchewan. Manning says that Mill Street would like to “get closer to the farm” and trace the organic barley back to individual fields. A German variety of hops called Hallertau comes from New Zealand, and Mill Street has also started to buy organic hops from two Ontario farmers as well as a farm in Quebec. “Hops have the same kind of varietal variation and are subject to terroir in a similar way to grapes.” The Original Organic Lager has a delicate floral aroma with a fairly grainy, malty palate and grassy herbal overtones. It’s best paired with semi-mild cheeses, sandwiches, light pasta and seafood.
beau’s brewery artisanal quality
The decision to start Beau’s Brewery was made over a pint of beer. When Tim Beauchesne’s textile business in Vankleek Hill, Ontario, lost its last customer, he approached his son Steve with the idea of starting a craft brewery. Steve offered to quit his job, sell his house and move back home to help him start it. The next day the two men sobered up and it still seemed like a good idea. The rest is history.
Beau’s aims to preserve the natural or artisanal quality of their beers rather than keep ingredients and processes constant. “We think of ourselves more along the same lines as a vintner would, where we are more worried about making the next batch of beer taste better than the last — instead of making it taste the same as the last,” says co-owner Steve Beauchesne. Beau’s offers one main brand year-round, Lug Tread Lagered Ale, with a new brand released to celebrate each season. Every six weeks, a one-off batch of experimental beer is released when the brew tank is available. One of the very first seasonal brews was a gruit beer made with bog myrtle, which hasn’t been brewed commercially since about the 1400s. Steve mentions it’s very hard to source organic ingredients in Canada, although Beau’s is working hard to change this and is using local malts and hops on a trial basis. Their Lug Tread is a very delicate beer with a lot of complexity, and pairs well with a soft cheese with a bit of nuttiness, fish or chicken that isn’t heavily breaded or spicy, and salads.
crannóg ales farm fresh
Located on a 10-acre farm in Sorrento, BC, Crannóg Ales was the first certified organic farm/microbrewery in Canada and one of only a handful in the world. The organic farm came first, followed closely by the brewery. Co-owner and alesmith Brian MacIssac stays true to his Irish roots in the styles of beer brewed and his deep respect for the environment. Crannóg Ales is a zero waste emissions brewery where recycling is used as a last resort. All packaging is reused, spent grain feeds pigs and chickens, and leftovers are composted. A water reclamation system allows the brewery to use processed water to clean kegs and tanks and for irrigation. MacIsaac doesn’t create single serving packaging and delivers ale in kegs to encourage beer lovers to gather in groups. According to MacIsaac, “I don’t think it’s a good idea for people to be sitting in their basements by themselves with a single serving of beer.” Even with the potential for growth, MacIsaac and co-owner Rebecca Kneen are not looking to expand. “We could’ve grown if we wanted to, but we are not interested. We have enough customers,” says MacIsaac. They have a name for farmers seeking to enlarge their operations: “We call them ‘stainless steel farmers’ because they just keep on adding more stainless steel.” All ingredients come from North America, with barley from Northern Alberta or Saskatchewan. The hops come from the farm with the remainder from BC hop yards that MacIsaac and Kneen have helped establish. As MacIsaac says, “We don’t want to throw a bunch of petrol up in the air to get our ingredients to us.” Water for the beer comes from a well on the property fed by nearby springs. MacIssac uses 11 different varieties of hops in the beers, usually four in a single brew.
mike kelly from Nelson Brewing Company
Hemp seeds seemed like a fit for Nelson, which is a kind of a natural food-hippyorganic kind of place. Crannóg‘s stouts and porters pair well with desserts or stews or something a little bit heavier, like chilli or spaghetti. The lighter beers go well with curries and fish and chips. The Irish red ales pair well with salads, whitefish and salmon. Organic beer is perfect for environmentally conscious people looking for products made with little impact on the land. Microbreweries across Canada craft small-batch brews based on traditional styles to suit local tastes. NBC brew master Mike Kelly said it best: “People who make organic beer like to tell their story.” He advised us to look for local beer using local ingredients and visit the brewery. He goes on to suggest asking about the brewery’s carbon footprint. It will definitely add interest to your glass. •
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“Your memorialists most earnestly hope that your counsels may be wisely directed, and that you will take such action in the premises as may strengthen the hands and encourage the hearts of those who have the direction of the Prohibitory Liquor Law movement.” These words, addressed in 1876 to the 19th session of the Huron Diocese’s Anglican Synod by the Dominion Alliance for the Total Suppression of Liquor Traffic may be some of the most terrifying I’ve ever read. (Okay, “Mr Stewart, this is the Canada Revenue Agency calling” is, admittedly, right up there.) They led the way, in 1864, to the passing of the Canada Temperance Act, and eventually to prohibition in Canada. For several dark decades, booze was banned.
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Now, the tentacles of this particular Kraken didn’t ensnare all provinces at the same time (or even all provinces; the people of Quebec warded off the beast with an emphatic “Non!” vote). The rest, however, were all caught by it to a greater or lesser extent. The province that had to put up with this nonsen … um, sorry, “noble experiment” the longest was Prince Edward Island, which was “tempered” from 1900 until 1948.
by Tod Stewart
Of course you can take from people that which they truly want by various means (legal or otherwise), but the upshot is inevitably the same: they’ll find some way to get it back, again using various means (legal or otherwise). And so it was in Canada in the early to mid-1900s when illegal distilling, bootlegging and procuring alcohol for “medicinal” purposes became common workarounds to prohibitionist dictates. Under prohibition’s yoke the longest, the population of PEI became quite adept at conjuring up its own spirit in the form of moonshine (referred to simply as “shine” by the Islanders) from a plethora of sugaror molasses-charged illicit stills. Much of it was consumed on the island, but a significant portion was bootlegged to our southern neighbours who were also being wrung dry by prohibition laws. While prohibition eventually dried up in PEI, the production of shine did not. And though the stills remained illegal, they continued to multiply. Shine had become ingrained in PEI culture and by the 1960s, an Islander didn’t have to travel very far to get a snoot full — typically no further then theirs or a neighbour’s barn.
shine on
Islander Ken Mill, along with several friends, wanted to respect the tradition (and taste) of shine, but envisioned a product that was safe, consistent and legal. In the fall of 2006 they constructed the island’s first legal distillery, The Myriad View Artisan Distillery Inc., to bring shine to the masses. “Bringing the tradition of moonshine out of the sheds and barns for the public to enjoy was one of the driving forces behind our business,” Mill reveals. “Being the first to distill legally still puts a smile on our faces.” Since Mill and company were pioneers in commercial PEI distilling, the lawyers and politicians were kept as busy as
“Being the first to distill legally still puts a smile on our faces.” the tradespeople. “The PEI Distillery Act had to be written as we went along,” Mill informs. “It was a very steep learning curve as plans changed almost by the day.” Needless to say, everyone involved did learn, and the spring of 2001 saw the first batch of The Myriad View’s shine pumped out of the distillery’s rather unique still. “We are producing our spirits in a 450 litre hand-crafted German pot still,” Mill explains. “The system allows us to reconfigure it in many ways to get just
the process we need to make our products have the traditional, historic flavours that are no longer available through the industrial distilleries.” When it comes to master distillers, The Myriad View is rather unique. “We have no master distiller on staff. Distilling alcohol is like making bread. You don’t need to have a piece of paper on the wall that states you have enrolled in a course and passed a test,” he contends. “Just as a parent shows a child how to knead a loaf of bread: the smell, the
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feel, and texture of the raw dough are what lead to that great loaf of bread. This is the province were every family has distillers in it that have passed down the family secrets. Angie (Berrow) started out as one of our four distillers, and soon showed the best nose for performing the all important ‘cuts’ during the distillation.” As Mill’s earlier comment suggests, the distillery is creating more than just shine, though he admits that he and his gang are best known as “the guys who make the shine.” The shine in fact comes in two varieties, Strait Shine, bottled at 50 per cent alcohol by volume (ABV) and the double-distilled Strait Lightning that clocks in at a smouldering 75 per cent ABV. There’s also a specialty shine flavoured with local dandelions and one with cranberries. But the distillery’s roster includes other traditional spirits, too. “Shine was a natural fit,” says Mill when asked about the development of his product line. “It is what we as ‘Islanders’ still drink at weddings, family reunions, and wakes. The other products are what we like to drink. Three of the partners are gin drinkers, so we researched the origin of gin and are producing it in the manner it was made 250 years ago. To make a great gin you need to start with clean and pure vodka. Our triple distilled vodka is the base for the gin. PEI was known for rum running, as prohibition went on here long after everywhere else had the right to drink. So we produce a rum at historic alcohol strength. The locals knew it as ‘boat rum.’ Ours is stored in barrels at the historic strength of 100 proof (57.1 % ABV).” Though the distillery has a capacity for a 40,000-bottle annual run, it is not yet up to full capacity and Mill is in no hurry to rush things. Nor is he set to engage in flashy marketing schemes or enter his product
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Julie Shore and Arla Johnson, founders of Prince edward distillery
in spirit competitions, as this would be in direct conflict with the shine tradition. “Keep it small, keep it quiet and keep it great-tasting are our principles,” he concludes. “Let word of mouth be the best award. Happy customers will tell two friends, and that’s the only award we seek.”
heRe’s spud in your eye
Heading from The Myriad View’s home of Rollo Bay northeast to Hermanville, on the eastern tip on the other side of the island, you’ll find a distillery that has, in fact, nailed a few prestigious awards. Prince Edward Distillery, founded in 2007 by Julie Shore (master distiller) and Arla Johnson (everything else), has garnered international acclaim for its flagship products: Prince Edward Potato Vodka and Prince Edward Wild Blueberry Vodka. Given the island’s reputation for outstanding spuds, one wonders why it took so long for someone to give potato vodka a go. “Potatoes are what PEI is known for,” Johnson confirms. “PEI produces the best potatoes in the world! This in turn created the best potato vodka in the world.” “Best in the world” is a pretty steep claim, but Johnson’s is based in reality. In competitions, Prince Edward Potato
Vodka triumphed over such industry heavyweights as SKYY, Stolichnaya, Effen, Crystal Head and Chopin. Trouncing Chopin brings Johnson and Shoe particular glee, since it is considered perhaps the finest potato vodka around. Or at least, it was …. The Prince Edward Wild Blueberry Vodka has also done well in competition. Johnson explains that this product, distilled from Canadian rye, is flavoured strictly with native wild blueberries. “There are no extracts and we don’t add sugar,” she states, confirming that sugar is not added to any of the distillery’s spirits. Like The Myriad View, Prince Edward has expanded its product line to include a rye (“made the traditional way … with rye!” Johnson says, and in doing so wins immediate respect from this writer) and an award-winning gin. “It’s Arla’s favourite spirit,” Shore reveals, “so I made it as a special gift for her. It has the traditional herbs used for gin, but also citrus elements including lemon grass and a touch of ginger to give it a bit of spice.” Add to this a rum, which, despite local pressure to produce, almost didn’t get made. “We tried to explain to people that sugarcane isn’t native to PEI and we only wanted to focus on distilling PEI agriculture,” Johnson recalls. “But after
Until I talked to Ken Mill I was under the impression that a spirit’s “proof” was double its alcoholic strength by volume. Turns out, this is likely inaccurate. Mill is obviously a bit of a history buff, so I’ll let him explain things. “The origin of the word proof, when related to alcohol, is a reference to the strength of the product. During the days of sailing vessels and pirates, liquor was used as a method of keeping crews under control. The alcohol had to be strong enough that if it somehow got spilled on the gunpowder, the powder would still light and could be used to defend your vessel.
spending too much time one evening at the bar of the Merchantman Pub, Julie agreed to make a rum.” Finally there is I.C. Shore, an Americanstyle whiskey that pays homage to Shore’s family roots in North Carolina. They had a pre-Prohibition distillery called ICShore that made bourbon whisky. I.C. Shore. Hmmm, “I See/Sea Shore.” It might be a tribute to the southern US, but it sure has a Maritime ring. Though their flagship products differ, The Myriad View and Prince Edward share more similarities than differences. Both have opted for German-designed stills. Prince Edward’s is a unique model that combines a pot still and a continuous still and is currently kicking out about 10,000 litres per year. Both distilleries strive for artisanal, additive-free products that seek to truly represent PEI either in heritage or ingredients (or both). And in Berrow and Shore, both rely on talented women who, literally, make the cut. “Julie went to college to be a dental hygienist,” Johnson admits. “When we
“So I, the ship owner, would ask you, the distiller/merchant, if your liquor was proof. You would prove it to me by wetting some of my gunpowder with your liquor. I would then light the charge of powder with a flint. If it still ignited I had seen the ‘proof’ it was of high quality. “Liquor less than 57.1% would not allow the gunpowder to ignite. Historic 100 proof is therefore 57.1%.” Not a big fan of industrial distilling, Mill concludes thusly. “The modern conversion of proof to be twice the ABV% is a simplification by big industry that increases profit by reducing the amount of alcohol, and flavour, in each bottle.”
were getting started she would joke that if it just didn’t turn out right we could make a mouthwash.” Both Shore and Johnson attended many workshops, seminars and conventions and visited distilleries around the world to hone their craft. “Julie has formulated all of her own recipes,” says Johnson. “She believes that she has ancestral blessings helping her. As for women distillers — it is believed that women actually have a better palate and nose.” Whether it’s keeping the island’s shine tradition alive and well (and legal) or crafting spirits using PEI’s signature produce, The Myriad View and Prince Edward are proudly and passionately exorcising the Ghost of Prohibition Past with an eye on expanding into the future. “Arla’s dad had a saying,” Shore recounts: “In life you need three things: something to do, something to hope for and someone to love. We believe we have been blessed … though Julie’s Methodist sister and Baptist grandmother have a hard time believing God blessed us with a distillery. But we believe.” •
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Summer by carolyn Evans-hammond
Deep fried rabbit ears. Plate that for your dinner party and watch your guests squirm. I would bet even your most daring friends — you know, the ones who secretly fancy themselves bonafide gastronomes — would get that bunny-in-the-headlights look in their eyes. “This is what?” Suddenly your dinner party is a theatre of the absurd without an intermission. Serve the same thing as part of a 30-course meal at the top restaurant in the world — the hardest place on the planet to get a reservation — and watch what happens. That’s exactly what happened in 2002 at El Bulli the night I ate there. The threestarred Michelin restaurant closed last summer due to financial loss, but it dramatically changed the culinary landscape on a global scale with its wild creations. The set of transparent, vascular, hairless and entirely recognizable bunny lobes arrived pointedly in front of me with a patch of crispy scalp attached. It was the third course at El Bulli, the small restaurant in Catalonia, Spain that received about two million requests for tables each year but sat only 8,000 patrons during its six-month season. I remember landing a Saturday evening reservation for mid-August, the January before, and instantly planning a trip around the booking. Sitting there on the legendary deck, the surf lapping the coast below, the Blonde and I dined through course after course of madness that leaped over the line from epicurean to preposterous. The raw fish squares dunked in warm pig fat, slapped on the plate, chilled, and called “tunaham.” The pasty grey slices of rabbit brain — presumably from the same creature that lost its ears. The gob of gooey tapioca that glued a hunk of gelati-
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lov
nous cuttlefish to the plastic tongue dispenser doubling as eating utensil. The liquid squid ink floating in hundreds of gelatin balls — caviar-esque — served with boiled baby octopus. With these dishes, chef Ferran Adrià cracked away the candy coating of cultural consent that keeps us from thinking too hard about what we’re actually putting in our mouths. I was feeling as though I had taken the scalpel to old Peter Cottontail himself, given my heebie jeebies by about the 10th course. Hippity, hoppity. Our squeamishness is irrational, of course. We devour colossal colonies of live bugs knowingly and call it yogurt; we roast whole turkeys and use the birds’ hearts, livers, gizzards and necks to make gravy; and we think nothing of nibbling on frogs’ legs, fish eggs, and blood sausage in all their fancy forms. If we’re familiar with it, of course it’s not weird. Pigs’ belly cut in strips and fried makes a great breakfast. Bottom feeders such as lobsters and crabs boiled live, plucked from their shells at the table, are good eats. And of course, wine is just grape juice with a goodly measure of yeast by-product known as alcohol. Ah yes, lobster dinners with wine. Summer just wouldn’t be summer without it. Nor would kicking back in the evening with plates of food and grazing into the wee small hours on the deck with other adults, eventually talking about things you would never otherwise discuss if it weren’t for the fact you had just shared three pitchers of sangria together. Sangria. Truth serum. The stuff that tastes at best like fruit juice, but affects you like a martini. Not because it’s strong. But because you guzzle it. It’s served with spicy, salty finger foods that only satiate after a good gulp of fizzy, cold sangria. Which reminds me. I have a secret to share.
menu maple smoked indian candy
Cured in maple syrup and hot smoked, this West Coast favourite is an ideal match to sangria. Available ready to serve, all you do is serve it on a cutting board with a knife. Or, cut it into 1-inch pieces and pile them into a clay bowl.
walnut-fed wild boar cacciatore It’s the closest we could come to unicorn charcuterie. This magical meat is a dry-cured salami with a nutty aroma, sweetspicy flavour, and a slightly gamier character than pork. Killer match for sangria. Slice it, serve it, watch them swoon. [Available through Cumbrae’s in Toronto.]
ving
When I was in London, I scored the best sangria recipe. Ever. I used to go to this great little tapas bar on Fulham Road in South Kensington. No, don’t look for it. It’s gone under too — no theme intended. But one night, I asked the bartender for the sangria recipe, which was my reason for going so frequently. And he shared it. Since then, I’ve developed a drier version too. I’m sharing with you the two sangria recipes along with a corresponding tapas menu with a decidedly Canadian twist.
dry sangria
1 750 ml bottle of dry, full-bodied, inexpensive red wine (Casillero de Almansa Reserva, $12, works well) 1 750 ml bottle of San Pellegrino sparkling water 1 oz of brandy 1 oz of Triple Sec Chopped fruit (any kind will do but I usually opt for orange, lemon, lime, and mixed berries). Combine in a jug of ice and stir gently. And don’t make it ahead of time, because you don’t want to lose the effervescence.
sweet sangria
1 750 ml bottle of dry, full-bodied, inexpensive red wine (Casillero de Almansa Reserva, $12, works well) 1 750 ml bottle of lemon-lime flavoured carbonated beverage such as Sprite or 7UP 1 oz of brandy 1 oz of Triple Sec Chopped fruit (again, any kind will do) Same as above — except substitute 7UP or Sprite for Pellegrino.
bacon-wrapped scallops 24 12
large sea scallops slices partially cooked bacon
Cook the bacon in a skillet until flexible but not crisp. Rinse the scallops under cold running water and pat them dry. Cut the bacon strips in half, and wrap each piece around a scallop, securing with a toothpick. Grill or broil for them about 10 minutes, turning frequently to crisp the bacon.
salt cod fish cakes
1/3 lb salt cod 1 medium russet potato 1 small onion, minced 2 eggs 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour 2 tbsp minced parsley 4 chives, minced 1 tsp dried savoury 1/2 tsp freshly ground pepper 1 cup dried breadcrumbs Peanut oil for cooking
1. Soak the salt cod in cold water overnight in the fridge.
Change the water, and soak for another 4 hours, then rinse.
2. Peel, chop, and boil the potato until tender. Drain and mash it. Add the onion, 1 egg, ½ cup of the flour, parsley, chives, savoury, salt and pepper.
3. Flake the fish with a fork and stir into the potato mixture. 4. With your hands, form golf ball-sized balls of the mixture.
Then flatten slightly. 5. Place the remaining flour, the other raw egg (whisked) and breadcrumbs in separate bowls. 6. Roll each fish cake in the flour, dip it in the egg, then toss it in the breadcrumbs. 7. Deep-fry the cakes in batches in 2 inches of oil at about 375°F (190°C) until golden. Drain on paper towels. •
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Don’t hate me by Michael Pinkus
What I’m about to admit may not make me a popular guy with certain wine fans and some winery owners: I loathe Baco Noir, so much so that five years ago I willed myself to try every Baco in the province. And being a sadomasochist I took a bunch of folks along with me for the ride. Now, before you start writing your hate mail and defence-of-the-dark-art-ofBaco-Noir reprimands, let me tell you the rest of the story — starting from the top. In late 2006 I found myself at a winemakers’ dinner with a number of my colleagues. We were looking at the menu, and one of the wines featured during the main course was a Baco Noir. Our debate began as to whether or not Baco was a suitable grape to make “fine wine” or whether it should be ripped out of the ground with extreme prejudice. One of my colleagues piped up with the following comment: “I don’t like young Baco, but give it five years and it can be something really good.” That got me thinking. First, that I should assemble a group of wine lovers to evaluate Ontario Baco Noirs to see which camp people fell into; and second, that I should take whatever wine is left over and lie it down for the aforementioned five years and see what happens to it. Does Baco get better with age, as my colleague suggests, or is it tough at any age? Over the years I have found that when most people talk about liking Baco Noir they’re usually referring to one producer, Henry of Pelham (HoP), who have long made this grape the flagship of their operation. Daniel Speck, VP Sales and Marketing at HoP, likens it to California’s own dark horse grape, Zinfandel. Being a Zinfandel fan myself, I don’t drink the same Kool-Aid as Daniel. But I have never told him that, until now.
42 // July/August 2012
Before we continue it is best that I give you a little background about Baco Noir: it was discovered, or better yet, created by François Baco, a Frenchman, who crossed Folle Blanche with an unspecified variety of vitis riparia (indigenous North American grape) in 1894. At one time it was planted in Burgundy, Anjou and Landes. It is known as a French hybrid, and was created as a high yielding, phylloxera-resistant varietal to be grown during a time when European grapes were struggling against the foreign-born louse. Over the years of tasting Ontario wines I have discovered there are actually three wonderful Baco producers, and thankfully each region has their proponent: Henry of Pelham in Niagara, Sandbanks in Prince Edward County and Sanson in the Lake Erie, North Shore. But let’s get back to what officially became known as the “Baco Challenge.” It kicked off in February 2007. Over the course of four nights, the challenge included 36 wines poured in three different categories: Baco (two nights), Baco blends and Baco reserves (one night apiece). Members of the public were invited to pay for the privilege of a blind sit-down tasting, and to cast their votes for the best. The event was held in the rustic confines of the barrel cellar at Southbrook Farm and Winery, when they were located in Richmond Hill. We quantified the Baco by having them score the wines on a scale of 1 to 10 in three categories: 1) Do you like it and 2) Would you buy it (both blind tasted), and finally, once the price of the wine was revealed, 3) Is it good value? In 2007, the top five Baco Noirs were: Peller Estates Private Reserve 2004; Hernder Estate Baco Noir 2002; Sandbanks Estate Reserve 2005; Vineland Baco Noir 2005; and Peller Estates Baco Noir 2005.
As we tasted the wines many questions were posed to Daniel about Baco Noir regarding how it grows and what makes it ageable. He responded, “Baco Noir is an early ripening grape that produces deep colour, big flavours, little tannin and high acidity. It is winter hardy and very disease resistant. Given these qualities it is no surprise that in wine regions with a compact and intense growing season, such as Burgundy’s, Baco Noir became popular post-phylloxera. It also explains why other cool climate growing regions like Oregon and Niagara have embraced Baco Noir, leading to wine critics like Matt Kramer identifying it as one of the most underrated red wine grapes — not to mention positive praise from the likes of Hugh Johnson, ( just) to mention two. With Baco’s acidity and pH rivalling that of Riesling, the specific goal of any serious producer is to balance that acidity with fruit ripeness. (Thus giving it a chance to age gracefully.)
Daniel Speck of Henry of Pelham: “This was a fun exercise ... Many of the wines were from the 2004 vintage, which was not generally a strong year in Ontario regardless of variety (with some exceptions). And many of the wines were $10-ish, wines that weren’t likely ever intended to age ... still, I was pleased with how many of the wines aged nonetheless.”
Fast-forward five years. The leftover wines, 19 of them, have been languishing in a wine cellar. I approached the king of Baco himself, Daniel Speck, to see if he would be interested in tasting the wines with me. Not only did he say yes, but he offered up his winery as a tasting venue. The night before the tasting I delivered the wines, which were unpacked and covered so that nobody attending would know the identity of the wines (including myself ). Sitting around the table were three winery principals, including a winemaker who told me, “I feel like a hypocrite, because I am not a big fan of Baco. But I do love aged hybrids.” Then there were six members of the public, including four who were at the Baco Challenge back in 2007, and one, Jason Alger, who attended all four nights back in 2007.
Baco’s single biggest challenge is that it is typically cropped at yields twice as high as they should be to produce quality wine. Various incentives encourage this [note: Ontario’s grape pricing policy, by the ton, does not promote quality grape growing with high yielding vines such as Baco], but the net effect is that the grape variety doesn’t get properly represented by many of the offerings available.” It would also seem that Daniel now compares Baco to another “in” grape. A few years ago it was Zinfandel, but today: “As Ontario’s answer to Malbec, consumers here and abroad (we sell Baco in California, New York, Japan, China and even Paris) are accepting Baco Noir, the king of all grapes.” Meanwhile, the tasters went about their business scoring these wines and making their notes.
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As for the results of the five-year retrospect tasting, it is interesting to note that two of the top five wines from 2007 also made an appearance in the top five in 2012. It is also worth noting that some very low-rated wines in 2007, such as Featherstone’s Gemstone 2004 and Smith & Wilson’s Buckhorn Noir 2005, cracked the top six. Referring to the Featherstone wine in 2007, some tasters called it “plonk, a bit sour and slightly smoky.” Five years later it became “plummy with black cherry, leather and tobacco aromas backed up on the palate with good acidity and a fruity finish.”
the tastings back in 2007: “I thought this was a fun tasting,” said Alger, “and to see it come full circle was quite interesting. More people should be tasting older Ontario wines.” There was also some excitement around the idea that a grape like the lowly Baco Noir could age, and age so well, over the course of five years. “They always say we drink our wines too young,” said Fred Couch, a member of the 2007 tasting club. “This really shows what age can do to a wine. Some got better, and some did not benefit at all from the extra aging in bottle. But it was interesting to taste what happens over time.
The wine that tied for first in 2012 was rated middle of the pack in 2007 (21st spot). Back then it was, “a little too sharp,” “tangy,” and “just okay;” given five years it has become “sweet tea, floral, wood spice and red fruited on the nose with a rich texture on the palate; nice acid tannin balance. This one has aged well!” The other top wine, Vineland Estates Baco Noir 2005, was seventh five years ago, and now: “Mature nose with cooked strawberry jam, fruit is dominant on the palate with a lingering finish that is very nice.” The other wines that ranked in the top five at the 2012 tasting (with their placing in 2005 in parenthesis beside): Rockway Glen Estate Baco Noir 2005, Hernder Estate Baco Noir 2002, Henry of Pelham Cabernet/Baco 2004, and Smith & Wilson Estate Buckhorn Noir 2005. Most people in attendance were impressed with a majority of the wines, none more so than the man who had been there for all
I have to be honest, I never really thought about aging Baco, especially the five-year theory, which is what really interested me about coming back.” But the final word should go to the man that knows Baco best, Daniel Speck: “This was a fun exercise ... Many of the wines were from the 2004 vintage, which was not generally a strong year in Ontario regardless of variety (with some exceptions). And many of the wines were $10-ish, wines that weren’t likely ever intended to age ... still, I was pleased with how many of the wines aged nonetheless.” Am I a convert to the cult of Baco Noir after this exercise? No, but I am a little closer to understanding why it does have such a following and why some growers and winemakers continue to play in the Baco sandbox. Fad grapes will come and go, but according to the Baco kings of Ontario, it will always remain near and dear to their hearts, as they continue to win over Canadian wine lovers. One thing’s for certain: it is a grape we can call our own. •
44 // July/August 2012
Variety is indeed the spice of our lives, and this allows us to really diversify with minimal additional effort. –Joel MacCharles
crave by Rosemary mantini
Let’s call it the persistence of imagination. We’ve all seen it, if not actually experienced it. It’s that unquenchable desire that drives a person to turn a passion for food, such as a love of chocolate, into something that explodes beyond the boundaries of their own kitchen walls. Maybe it’s a special jam recipe or homemade wine. Whatever the creation, before long others end up craving it, too. What begins as a simple food experiment meant to sate a personal hunger turns into something bigger — maybe even something lucrative. Connecting with people who relentlessly pursue the dictates of their taste buds is truly inspiring. There’s a vibe. Soon, their endless pursuit of flavour will have you believing that anything is possible. But who are these people? And why do they bother going to such lengths when all they need do is walk into a grocery store and find loads of products that are already there? Dan Luciani, a technology expert by day, Joel MacCharles and Dana Harrison, who run wellpreserved.ca, Angelo Bean, the Sausage King, and Jefferson Alvarez, executive chef at Vancouver’s Fraîche, had a ready answer for me: when passion takes hold, there is no turning back.
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Jefferson Alvarez
The Product: Preserved and Pickled Seasonal Produce The Response: “We’ve sold out of all jars when available. Someone came in one night and bought 18 jars to use as gifts!” Jefferson, the well-travelled culinary expert and professional chef, has been following his food passions for what seems like forever. He comes by his obsession honestly. Thanks in part to his Venezuelan family, made up mostly of cooks, Jefferson arrived in Canada at age 16 intuitively knowing what could take other aspiring chefs years to learn. But Jefferson wasn’t content with simply cooking for the people in his restaurants. He wanted them to incorporate the best ingredients in their everyday cooking. Jefferson’s solution was simple, and one that’s become a growing trend among chefs working in upscale restaurants. “I preserve and pickle my own ingredients because using and preserving local and seasonal produce is very important to me,” he says. One of his most popular sellers is the Peaches Preserved in White Wine and Tahitian Vanilla Beans. Oh sure, you might think that going to that kind of trouble is fine for him. He’s a professional chef, after all. But I’ll bet you’re already following your food passions every time you experiment with an ingredient or try something new. If you happen to find yourself in Jefferson’s neighbourhood, pick up some of his other offerings to add to your pantry: pickled veggies, preserved fruit and cured pork belly.
Angelo Bean
The Product: Salsiccia Ubriaca (Drunken Sausage) The Response: “Older Italians say it tastes like the stuff their grandparents made on the farm.” Who says you have to be a professional chef to melt a foodie’s heart? Angelo is the uncrowned ambassador for the slow food movement in Toronto. Despite the fact that he has a day job, he managed to create a unique product that he sells through Ontalia, a company he founded to reflect his connection to his Italian heritage. Angelo’s philosophy, “Italian Roots in Local Soil,” runs through his signature item, Drunken Sausage. It’s made using single-farm-sourced Ontario Berkshire pork infused with local wines that have been reduced to the consistency of syrup. Talk about dedication. As is often the case with quality, Angelo’s sausages are neither quick nor cheap to make. “I sometimes have to wait weeks before Fred DeMartines, my favourite butcher, can bring in the select pork,” he admits. There’s no denying that true love needs time to develop properly. In response to my curiosity as to whether Angelo would quit his day job now that Ontalia’s products are becoming more popular, he declares, “Part of my retirement plan is to spend more time distributing my sausages.”
46 // July/August 2012
Joel MacCharles and Dana Harrison
The Product: Two small batches of strawberry and honey “wine,” and between 400-600 bottles of preserves a year, generally more than 100 different types. The Response: “Many people are surprised on the many uses and possibilities — preserves include jams and pickles, but there’s so much more including making cheese, bacon, wine, beer, dehydrating, sauces.” Joel, a social media expert, and Dana, a designer, created their website in their spare time as a way to contain and document their passion for preserving and homecooking. On it, Joel posts accounts describing their adventures in the kitchen and the food-centred events they attend. The two of them can’t actually sell the products they preserve (laws regulating how food can be sold get in the way of that). So, if they can’t spread the love commercially, they can still swap what they make with like-minded people. According to the North America-wide Food Swap Network, “[the] swap is a recurring event where members of a community share homemade, homegrown, or foraged foods with each other.” Joel and Dana swear by it. “Swapping is great for two reasons: the sense of enhancement of community and sharing knowledge,” they say, “and it’s highly motivating and a lot of fun to watch 30 strangers swap hundreds of jars of food.” For Joel and Dana, the opportunity to diversify their meals by stocking their pantry with an “additional 60 to 100 flavours a year [they] wouldn’t otherwise get the chance to have” is essential to feeding their passion for flavour. See? Following your heart to foodie paradise doesn’t need to involve elaborate restaurants or retail contracts. It can be a pursuit meant purely for your own enjoyment. If swapping sounds like your thing, check out foodswapnetwork.com to find out how to start your own event or attend one taking place near you.
Joel MacCharles’ Herbes Salées
“My mother is from the most beautiful Cape Breton island. It’s an amazing place that’s full of culture, nature, music, dance and tradition. Preserving herbs with salt is a very common method and is a part of many traditional dishes in the East Coast,” writes Joel at wellpreserved.ca. Perfect for those times when fresh herbs aren’t immediately available, this is a quick and easy preserve that will liven up any dish any time of the year. Make your own signature product by adding your personal favourites to the mix. 4-5 cups mixed herbs, washed, dried and chopped (avoid using a food processor which can cause excessive bruising) 3/4 cup coarse salt
1. Mix the herbs in a giant bowl, adding salt as you go.
When all ingredients have been added, give the entire mix a really good toss. 2. Place the mixture into a 1 litre jar. When the jar is full, spoon a final layer of salt over the top. 3. Close the jar and leave it in the fridge for 14 days. Shake it gently each day. After the 14 days are up, drain any excess liquid. 4. Stored in the fridge, herbes salées will easily keep for weeks.
Daniel Luciani
The Product: MOB Hot Sauce The Response: “People who have tried it say it is the most flavourful sauce they have ever tasted.” You guessed it: the name of the sauce does indeed reference the great Italian mobsters of history. Dan explains that his maternal grandfather “was a very proud farming man. We had a large garden in the backyard. He loved and grew hot peppers, and gave me a small amount each day.” Dan grew up to discover that it wasn’t just heat he craved. He was after flavour. He really wasn’t interested in hot sauces that did little else but set your mouth on fire. Yet, finding a product that satisfied his craving proved impossible. So off he went on a little culinary journey of his own. After some experimentation, Dan found he’d arrived at the right blend of 17 ingredients to create a uniquely hot and flavourful sauce the colour of a Caribbean sunset. “Habanero peppers generate the heat,” he says, “and mango and papayas add the necessary smooth, satisfying sweetness.” Daniel suggests that at some point in the future, he might look into selling his sauce commercially. But for now, friends and family are the lucky recipients. Be inspired — because creating something phenomenal isn’t really about talent. Each one of these people found his or her food epiphany in different ways (and to varying degrees of fame and fortune). Yet, what links them all is an enduring hunger for authenticity. So, what’s your passion? •
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claw by robert hausner
An incomparable piece of Canada’s geographic wealth is, sans doubte, the historic and culinary heaven called the Maritimes. Locals, proud of their Acadian ancestry, and urban refugees who came for the unique, unspoiled quality of the region, offer fabulous local seafood and share its abundance through a significant number of eco-sensitive producers. Seafood from these cold, pristine Atlantic waters is truly remarkable. While our first thoughts may connect with fishing for the king Homanus Americanus, the wild lobster, the enormous bounty from the Bay of Fundy includes scallops, succulent wild halibut and haddock, even tuna and swordfish. And throughout the region, in addition to well-known ecologically certified salmon farming, steelhead trout and clams abound. Part of PEI’s fame comes from Malpeque Bay, home of its unparalleled oysters that have been gathered using the same traditional methods for more than a century now. Near Yarmouth, EOL Lake Oyster Co and iGrow Oysters have used the Internet to spread the word of their super premium product, which is now offered in four-star restaurants in New York, Boston and around the world. Imagine, six years ago they were relatively unknown. This is where tradition meets modern savoir-faire. In the coastal areas you’ll find ideal conditions for growing blue mussels, and there are now many producers of these succulent aqua-farmed jewels, as the cold clear waters are a perfect source of nourishment that results in large size, pure flavour and a consistently high quality mussel. Only by driving (or cycling) through the area can you get that unique feeling from almost touching that unspoiled quality of centuries past. For the food lover, a romantic taste of the Maritimes is the Garrison House Inn, in Annapolis Royal, an utterly charming (and affordable) seven-room inn that has become a National Historic Site. For the purist gourmet, it’s the finest dining in the region. Patrick Redgrave is an amazingly talented chef (and innkeeper) who has combined the old-world Maritimes with new and exciting food.
48 // July/August 2012
the lobster roll The origin of this recipe is unknown, but it probably stems from the 1920s. One thing is certain: it is easy to prepare and decadently delicious.
1 4
cup cooked lobster meat, chopped into small chunks tbsp mayonnaise 3/4 tbsp lemon juice 1/4 cup finely chopped celery 1-2 finely chopped green onions, depending on taste 1 tbsp dill relish, optional Salt and pepper, to taste (about 1/2 teaspoon each) Hot dog bun or baguette roll Butter Lettuce leaf, optional
1. Mix everything together except the last 3 ingredients, and chill. 2. Before serving, spread butter on the hot dog bun or baguette. Then either toast the bun in a toaster oven or on the stove. You can also broil the bun. 3. If you use lettuce, place the lettuce leaf in the bun. 4. Next, fill the lobster mixture into the hot dog bun. …… That’s all! Easy and delectable. To pair I prefer a light Gewürz, especially one from Niagara.
grilled fillet of salmon with caper and dill yogurt sauce Serves 2
2-3 1 1/2 2 1/4 1/2 1 1/2
cloves minced garlic tbsp olive oil tbsp capers, drained and chopped cup dry white wine cup plain yogurt tsp chopped fresh dill lb salmon fillets, preferably thick
1. Sauté garlic in olive oil over medium heat until cooked, but
not browned. 2. Add capers and continue to sauté for 2 to 3 minutes until fragrant. Continue stirring and raise heat to medium/high. 3. Add white wine and allow to reduce, then turn heat to low. Add fresh ground pepper to taste (approx. 1/4 tsp), then fold in yogurt and dill and gently heat to serving temperature when salmon is cooked (do not bring to a boil as yogurt sauce may separate). 4. Pre-heat barbecue to 425˚F. Wire brush and oil grill. 5. Gently wash and pat dry salmon fillets. Rub them all over with any high-temperature oil (i.e. canola, vegetable etc.) and season with ground pepper and sea salt. 6. Place skin-side up on the grill and close lid. Time elapsed before turning will depend on the thickness of the fillet, but turn over when the colour of the cooked part of the salmon is just less than half (3 to 4 minutes). Place on warmed plates and spoon sauce over the salmon. …… Suggestion for vegetables: the Inn uses French haricot beans, steamed and tossed in unsalted butter and baby potatoes roasted in garlic, summer savoury and salt and pepper.
seared scallops with pear vinaigrette Serves 2
1/2 1/4 1/2 1 1 1
1/2 1 1 1 12 1
cup quality olive oil cup rice wine vinegar cored, peeled ripe pear (your favourite kind) tbsp fresh French tarragon, torn tsp Dijon mustard tbsp frozen concentrated orange juice small head of radicchio, roughly chopped small fennel, finely sliced cup baby spinach cup mizuna (if not available, use mixed greens) large scallops tbsp butter
1. Purée first 6 ingredients to form a vinaigrette, and season with salt and pepper.
2. Combine next 4 ingredients in large bowl. Add 1/2 cup
vinaigrette and toss. Place on 2 large plates. 3. Season scallops with salt and pepper. Melt 1 tbsp butter in large heavy non-stick skillet over med-high heat. 4. Add 12 scallops and sauté until browned on both sides and opaque in centre, approx. 1 minute per side. 5. Toss the scallops with the rest of the vinaigrette and place them on top of the plated salad. …… Great with a Sauvignon Blanc or a Torrontés.
mussels mariniere Serves 4
This modest variation of the famous recipe is my favourite.
4 1 2 1
lbs mussels garlic clove, finely chopped shallots, finely chopped bouquet garni (parsley, thyme and a bay leaf) 1/2 tbsp butter Wine or cider 1/2 cup double cream A handful of parsley leaves, coarsely chopped Crusty bread, to serve
1. Wash the mussels under plenty of cold, running water.
Discard any open ones that won’t close when lightly squeezed. If there are any tough, fibrous beards protruding from between the tightly closed shells, pull them out. Give the mussels another quick rinse to remove any little pieces of shell. 2. Soften the garlic and shallots in the butter with the bouquet garni in large pan big enough to take all the mussels — it should only be half full. 3. Add the mussels and wine or cider, turn up the heat, then cover. They will steam open in their own juices in 3 to 4 minutes. (Give the pan a good shake every now and then). 4. Remove the bouquet garni, add the cream and chopped parsley and remove from the heat. 5. Spoon into four large warmed bowls and serve with lots of crusty bread. •
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bach in business\\
Thomas Bachelder’s biggest fear was that each of his new Chardonnays, made from the 2009 vintage in Burgundy, Oregon and Niagara, would taste the same. After all, he applied the same winemaking skills to each of his namesake wines: organically sourced grapes where possible, minimal intervention, the same deft touch with similar, mostly older, oak barrels for 16 months, and all, or mostly all, grapes fermented with wild yeasts. “We applied the same thought, a Burgundian thought, in all three places,” Bachelder says as we taste through his three wines, at his dining room table in the place he now calls home along with his wife Mary Delaney and their young daughters in Fenwick, Ont. Bachelder is better known in Niagara for his brilliant winemaking at Le Clos Jordanne, the Vincor-owned label that only makes Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. He is known as a hardworking perfectionist when it comes to making wines at the highest end of the quality spectrum. He left Le Clos to chase a dream — a dream to make coolclimate Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs in three of the regions where he had made them before. Bachelder and his family rented cellar space in Niagara, Oregon and Burgundy and, using similar winemaking strategies, produced a trio of Chardonnays from the 2009 vintage (three Pinot Noirs will follow). All the wines are made with a “small-lot” mentality to “maximize subtlety and demands long aging for terroir expression, finesse and nuance,” Bachelder says.
50 // July/August 2012
discovery
by rick vansickle
Tasting the three wines, the typicity of the three regions shines through. All are fine examples of where they come from but they also represent what can happen when left in the hands of an accomplished winemaker such as Bachelder. The wines are defined by the fruit, not the oak, with a mineral edge that shows more in Burgundy than in the New World regions. All three of the wines, priced at $35, were released in February to positive reviews, but not without a touch of controversy in Ontario. The Oregon Chardonnay was pulled off the shelves at some Vintages stores on the first day of the release due to the presence of harmless “wine diamonds” or tartrates that had crystallized in some bottles due to the minimal cold stabilization of the wines. Tartrates are not in any way harmful but the LCBO was worried that some consumers would react to seeing the crystals and return the bottles, so therefore they were yanked. Three days later, the affected bottles were returned to the shelves with a note explaining the wine may contain naturally occurring tartrate crystal sediment. “This sediment is harmless and the wine may be decanted or filtered before serving,” the LCBO note said. From Bachelder’s point of view, it was a tiny bump in the road, a tempest in a teapot that affected very few bottles of wine, and, if anything, helped rather than hurt sales. “This is not the first time I have seen [the tartrates], nor do I expect it to be the last. I like to make textured, mineral Chardonnays with a ‘sense of place.’ I believe that over cold-stabilizing a wine is the antithesis of terroir expression in high-end wines.” •
the mav notes\\ 90 McWatters Collection Chardonnay 2010, Okanagan ($25)
This Okanagan Valley Chardonnay from the Sundial Vineyard is the second wine released by Sumac Ridge founder Harry McWatters and follows on the heels of his Meritage, released last year. Lovely notes of apple, citrus and tropical fruit on the nose generously accented by oak spice and vanilla. The fruit is bright and succulent on the palate, with good acid verve for balance and a lingering finish. (RV)
92 Gaspereau Vineyards Riesling (Brut) 2009, Traditional Method, Nova Scotia ($41.99)
Delicate floral and lemon-citrus aromatics reveal Riesling pedigree. Expands broadly on the palate, showing classic lemon-lime intensity backed by mineral grip and brisk acidity. Adroitly balanced with a touch of residual sweetness, lightly creamy texture and lingering floral sensation on the finish. (SW)
90 2027 Cellars Queenston Road Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010, Niagara ($35) Panagapka’s Pinots are never ready to drink on release, but being a startup virtual winery, he has to get these wines to market to pay the bills. The wine shows best after several hours of decanting, or better yet, a couple years of cellaring. The first aromas are of earth, sweet oak, warm cherries and forest floor. But as it opens up, it shows more ripe red fruits and less organic notes. It has a silky feel on the palate, with red fruits folding into cedar and spice. Not an overdone Pinot, but rather one that straddles the line between masculine and feminine. (RV)
91 Stratus Gewürztraminer 2010, Niagara-onthe-Lake ($32)
Stratus has scored big with this Gewürztraminer. It is classic textbook with a sensual nose of peach, mango, rose, honey, spice, cold cream and pineapple. Rich in the mouth, the fruit, flowers and spice reverberate on the long finale. Unusual to the varietal, there is excellent acidity. A tip of the chapeau to J-L Groulx for his finest rendition to date! (ES)
90 Mission Hill Family Estate Oculus 2006, Okanagan ($122.75/1.5 l)
Dark ruby. Cocktail of dark fruits and a fair amount of oak with a slight medicinal note. Concentrated and very full-bodied, the tannic structure is a bit rough, a sign of youth and aging potential. A bit austere at ths early stage. Wait 5 to 7 years. (GBQc)
90 Fielding Estate Winery Cabernet Franc 2010, Niagara ($21.95)
92 Bachelder Niagara Chardonnay 2009, Niagara ($35) This Niagara version of the Bachelder Chardonnay trilogy is made in a tight, minerally style that is more about finesse and grace than power and defining fruit. I love the mineral nose and fruits on the palate that are revealed in layers rather than as one-dimensional. Since first tasted 6 months ago, it has evolved and blossomed into a more voluptuous wine with more fruit intensity, sublime minerality with interesting spice notes starting to emerge. It has impeccable balance through the long finish. (RV)
Fielding was one of the victors at this year’s Cuvée awards, taking home 3 gold medals. For my money, it is this Cabernet Franc which offers the best bang for the buck. The dark cherry colour leads into a profile of cassis, raspberries, smoky herbs and violets, which are layered on a medium body. The supple tannins and excellent length give the wine staying power. Drink it now or until 2018. A tip of the chapeau to winemaker Richie Roberts! (ES)
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choosing the best parts\\
One of the signs of the evolution and maturation of a wine industry is the distinction within the country of unique wineproducing regions. The next step is further dividing those regions based on the unique microclimates and soil conditions, which impart particular characteristics to the wines. In British Columbia, the Okanagan was long considered to be a single region, with little consideration for the numerous microclimates existing throughout the valley. From Kelowna to Naramata to Osoyoos, conditions vary significantly, ultimately affecting which varietals are best suited to grow in which areas. Today, most people recognize the tremendous differences in climate and soil conditions and the effect on the style, character and flavour profile of the resulting wines. The more the wines can exhibit a unique commonality, the greater the chance that region has of emerging — and the wine-drinking public has of being able to taste the sense of place reflected in the glass. The evolution of the Okanagan’s wine industry is clearly evidenced by the emergence of the Similkameen Valley. Located 30 minutes west of Osoyoos in a near-desert, hot, dry and sunny valley, more than 600 acres of vineyards are now growing wines that are demanding the attention of Canadian wine lovers. At the recent Canadian Culinary Championships (CCC) in Kelowna, the best-of-show wine was awarded to the Similkameen’s Orofino Syrah 2009. I had the opportunity, at the CCC, to taste through numerous wines from the Similkameen wineries (more than I realized were being produced) and was impressed by the overall quality and potential shown in the wines from an area where over 40 per cent of the agriculture is farmed organically. The dry heat, combined with the long hours of sunlight and elevations of the region’s vineyards, allow for the production of a range of wines from delicate, aromatic whites to complex, age-worth reds. You may not have heard of them yet, but the wines of the Similkameen Valley will not be unheard of for much longer.
52 // July/August 2012
davine
by gurvinder Bhatia
Cerelia Vineyards Misceo 2008 ($23)
A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Aromas and flavours of blackcurrants, black cherries and plums with a hint of chocolate; grippy tannins, rich texture and a pleasant freshness.
Sandhill ‘Vanessa Vineyard’ Cabernet-Merlot 2009 ($20)
Loads of ripe berry aromas and flavours, with hints of spice and vanilla; lots of licorice, silky tannins and great balance.
Orofino Syrah 2009 ($29)
Aromas of meat with gamey notes; lots of dark wild-berry fruit with hints of pepper and dark chocolate, big tannin and full finish. Intriguing and distinct. Will benefit from a couple of more years in the bottle.
Orofino Riesling 2010 ($20)
Clean and refreshing, with loads of crunchy apple, grapefruit and lime flavours, a pleasant minerality and a mouth-watering tangy finish. Great with poached halibut with a mango and lime salsa.
Orofino Beleza 2009 ($34)
A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot showing very ripe fruit, sweet tannins, rich cassis, cherry, coffee and licorice with a long finish. Should develop nicely over the next 5 years.
Seven Stones Meritage 2006 ($32)
Full of fresh, ripe fruit; hints of mint, currant, coffee, plum and spicy oak flavours. Soft, approachable tannins with lots of fruit lingering on the mid-palate and a full, smooth finish. 60% Merlot, 35% Cab Sauv, and 5% Cab Franc; aged 17 months in French oak.
Seven Stones The Legend 2009 ($45) Quite dark; bold and ripe with rich fruit aromas and hints of fresh herbs, firm tannins, great texture and a big, ripe finish. A nice balance between ripe, black fruit and fresh, savoury herbs. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 12% Petit Verdot and 8% Cabernet Franc.
Cerelia Vineyards Pinot Gris 2009 ($18)
Fresh and bright with citrus, peach and apple flavours, nice full mouthfeel and quite a bit of ripeness on the finish. Quite drinkable and a nice summer patio wine.
Eau Vivre Cabernet Franc 2009 ($22) Dark fruit and herbal aromas with flavours of black cherry, currants and hints of pepper and chocolate; nice balance and character with a lingering, fresh finish. A very good value.
Rustic Roots Plum Rose 2012 ($19)
Made with a blend of 5 different varieties of plums, this is a surprisingly tasty wine with loads of plum on the nose and concentrated and clean plum flavours; hints of citrus, strawberry and cranberry and a zippy, bright finish with good acidity.
Robin Ridge Merlot 2007 ($24)
Aromas and flavours of plum, cherry, hints of earth and chocolate; a smooth texture, slightly dry tannins and a touch of fresh herbaceousness on the finish. Quite soft and approachable.
Forbidden Fruit SauVidal 2010 ($22) Fresh and crisp; full and concentrated aromas and flavours of apricot, apples and pineapple with a rich, weighty texture, mouth-filling mid-palate and a clean finish that lingers. A nice match with oily fish and baked chicken.
Clos du Soleil Winemaker’s Reserve Eclipse 2009 ($59)
A delicious blend of 50% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Cabernet Franc showing big, bright plum, cherry and currant fruit; great concentration, rich, elegant tannins and a finish that lingers with hints of mocha and more ripe fruit. Drinking well now, but will continue to evolve over the next 5 to 8 years. •
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//the food notes 89 Laughing Stock Vineyards Portfolio 2009, Okanagan ($62) Elegant and focused with aromas of wildberries, currant, spice, tobacco, chocolate and coffee; flavours of currant and black cherries, tobacco and vanilla with fine, mildly grippy tannins and a long, expressive, fresh finish. A little heavy on the oak now, but should integrate nicely with 2 to 3 years in the cellar. Worth trying with some dark chocolate. (GB)
86 Township 7 Syrah 2009, Okanagan ($25) The blueberry-and-black-pepper nose includes aromatic honeysuckle from the co-fermented Viognier (8%). The meaty palate brims with loads of cherry and cola flavour, along with oakderived spiciness. Dried herbs linger on the dry tannin finish. Pair with grilled meats. (HH).
88 Quails’ Gate Chasselas/Pinot Blanc/Pinot Gris 2011, Okanagan ($19)
Attention-grabbing fruit-salad aromas and mouth-watering orchard-fruit flavours ensure a crowd-pleasing quaff. Off-dry honeyed notes bookend splashes of crisp citrus flecked with fresh herbs. Chill well, then untwist cap to kick-start your patio party. Very green salad–friendly, too. (HH)
91 Ravine Vineyard Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, St David’s Bench ($37)
The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon is an impressive backward wine that requires another 2 years in the bottle before being enjoyed. The nose is still a tad shy at this early stage, but cassis, black raspberries, menthol, plums, cherries, spice and cocoa are discernible. Medium- to full-bodied, the tannins are distinct and strong, so when the time arises, serve it with some medium-rare steak with a char on the outside. Drink it from 2014 to 2021. (ES)
92 Viña Echeverría Casa Nueva Family Reserve 2001, Molina, Chile ($19)
Deep garnet, it displays a mature nose: leather, cassis, plums and black pepper. In the mouth, lots of blackberries, a ridiculously long finish, and plenty of acidity and alcohol to keep it at a plateau for a few years, but why wait? Terrific with a rich duck confit. (RL)*
88 Mollet Sancerre 2009, Loire, France ($20)
Pale lemon-yellow, with a Granny Smith–apple nose. This wine is a good ambassador for Loire Sauvignon Blanc: lots of apple and lemon flavours with bright acidity; can be quaffed, or sipped with appreciation. Classic with chèvre and herbed olives. (RL)*
54 // July/August 2012
91 JoieFarm A Noble Blend 2011, Okanagan ($24)
This softer-textured, best-edition-to-date, Alsatian-inspired blend features Riesling (38%), Gewürztraminer (33%) and Pinot Auxerrois (11%), but also Pinot Blanc (14%) and Schoenberger (4%) this year. Fragrant elderflower, lime and clove aromas. Off-dry, intense flavours of guava, lychee, grapefruit and nutmeg notes. Well-balanced 12.7% alcohol refreshes. Beckons dishes with bacon. (HH)
bouquet garni
go fish\\
My dad was from a small landlocked village in Italy where lamb and beef were plentiful. And although he naturally preferred a Mediterranean diet, with figs, olives and nuts high on his list of favourites, he ate fish only on Friday nights when it was deepfried at my aunt’s restaurant. My octogenarian mother has always disliked fish, although she still gamely tries to acquire a taste for it by frequenting the local Red Lobster with her Red Hat posse. Consequently there were no feasts of the seven fishes as I was growing up, no sweet shrimp, succulent scallops or briny molluscs of any kind. Most of my family wrinkle their nose at seafood, but I am nothing if not the gourmet of the group. The first real fresh fish I ever ate was on a trip to Boston when I was 18. Since then, I have come to embrace seafood of all kinds, even calamari, although I prefer the little round rubbery rings over the somewhat frightening tentacles. Seafood is quick and easy to make; fresh and frozen are readily available, and it’s a healthful choice for dinner.
crab, shrimp and corn chowder serves 4 to 6
Canned corn is fine to use in this dish although when fresh corn is in season, it takes this chowder from good to fabulous. This recipe starts with a roux, a Cajun trick that adds a rich dimension to the chowder. For a heartier version, serve the chowder over diced cooked potatoes or rice. This makes a nice starter or main dish when accompanied by a green salad and cornbread.
1/2 1/2
cup butter cup flour 1 small onion, chopped 4 cups chicken or vegetable broth, hot 4 cups half-and-half Corn from 6 fresh ears or 2 cans corn, drained 2 tbsp salt
by nancy Johnson
1/2
tsp ground white pepper 1 lb can lump crabmeat, picked over 1 lb large shrimp, peeled and deveined Minced fresh parsley, for garnish
1. In a large Dutch oven, melt butter over low heat. Stir in
flour. Cook, stirring, 3 minutes. Turn up heat to medium-high.
2. Add onion, cook until softened. Whisk in hot broth. Bring to a boil.
3. Add half-and-half, corn, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil,
reduce heat and simmer 20 minutes, uncovered. Add crab and shrimp. Cook 5 minutes or until shrimp are cooked through. 4. Serve in shallow bowls, garnished with parsley. …… Serve with a Paso Robles or Rhône Rosé.
shrimp satay with sriracha mayonnaise serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer
Peanut sauce traditionally accompanies satay, but the combination of Thai-style shrimp and Sriracha mayo is amazing. I took this dish to a potluck and every last bit disappeared within minutes. You can substitute chicken or pork for the shrimp.
1 can coconut milk 1 tbsp fish sauce 1 tbsp brown sugar 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 lb large shrimp, peeled and deveined Bamboo sticks, soaked in cold water for one hour
1. In a large bowl, combine coconut milk, fish sauce, brown sugar, cumin, coriander, and turmeric. Marinate shrimp in mixture for one hour.
+ Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on tidingsmag.com
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2. Thread shrimp onto bamboo skewers. Discard marinade.
3. Roast shrimp in 400˚F oven 10 minutes or until shrimp are cooked through. Instead of roasting, shrimp can be grilled on the barbecue until cooked through. Serve with Sriracha Mayonnaise. …… Great with an Ontario Riesling.
sriracha mayonnaise Sriracha has a unique smoky flavour. No other hot sauce will do for this recipe. The sauce amps up the heat of sushi too.
1 1
cup mayonnaise tsp Sriracha chili sauce
1. In small bowl, mix ingredients. Serve with Shrimp Satay.
tilapia with tarragon, asparagus and spinach in parchment serves 4
sweet and spicy shrimp and scallops serves at least 4 hungry men plus a few wives and girlfriends
My beau, Ron, has three hungry adult sons, all of whom love spicy food. Together, Ron and I cooked up this recipe to feed the gang when they were all in town. Seriously, we all ate too much of it, that’s how good it is.
1 1 1 2 1
tbsp sea salt tbsp onion powder tbsp dried thyme leaves tsp Hungarian paprika tsp ancho chili powder 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper 1/4 tsp ground white pepper 1/4 tsp dried sage leaves 1/4 tsp rosemary 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 4 tbsp soy sauce 2 tbsp honey 2 lb shrimp, peeled and deveined 2 lb scallops Hot cooked basmati rice
1. Preheat oven to 450˚F. 2. In a large casserole dish, mix salt, onion powder, thyme, paprika, ancho chili powder, black and white peppers, sage and rosemary. Stir in olive oil, soy sauce and honey. 3. Marinate shrimp and scallops in mixture one hour. Roast at 450˚F for 15 to 20 minutes or until shrimp and scallops are cooked through, stirring occasionally. Serve over basmati rice. …… Serve with a New Zealand Gewürztraminer.
56 // July/August 2012
Here’s the deal on folding parchment paper — I have trouble wrapping it up neatly into half-moons with tiny overlapping pleats, the way Martha would do it. My goal is simply to fold the darn parchment packets tightly enough so that the juices stay in while the steam does its job. Have a go at it, and see if you can do a better job than I. This is a terrific recipe for steaming any thin fish fillets.
4 tbsp butter, softened 1 tbsp grated lemon zest 2 tbsp fresh tarragon, minced 4 tilapia fillets, about 1/2 inch thick Extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper 1 bunch thin asparagus, tripped 1 cup baby spinach 4 tbsp dry white wine
1. Preheat oven to 400˚F. 2. Cut 4 pieces of parchment paper, each approximately 12 x 16 inches.
3. In a small bowl, mix butter, lemon zest and tarragon.
4. Rub tilapia with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.
5. Place a few asparagus spears on each piece of
parchment paper. Place spinach over asparagus. Place tilapia on top of vegetables. Top with herb butter. 6. Spoon white wine over tilapia. Fold parchment paper tightly to seal. Place packets on baking sheet. Bake about 12 minutes or until fish is cooked through. Open packets carefully to serve. …… A crisp, herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc stands up well with dish.
shrimp in vodka tomato cream sauce with rigatoni serves 4 to 6
When I moved to Los Angeles, my very first restaurant meal was Vodka Shrimp. Although it’s not necessarily a West Coast staple, Vodka Shrimp does remind me of my first few weeks in Tinseltown. Passata di Pomodoro is Italian tomato sauce sold in tall glass jars. If you can’t find it, substitute a large can of good quality crushed tomatoes. Leave the parsley and basil whole and remove before serving. You can add the shrimp to the sauce to cook it, but I prefer giving the shrimp a highheat sauté in a grill pan to slightly caramelize it.
2 3 3
tbsp olive oil, divided shallots, peeled and minced cloves garlic, peeled and minced 3/4 cup vodka, more or less to taste 1 jar Passata di Pomodoro A few sprigs of fresh parsley Several fresh basil leaves 1/2 tsp kosher salt 1/4 tsp pepper 1 lb large shrimp, peeled and deveined 1/2 cup heavy cream 1 package rigatoni, cooked
1. In large skillet, in 1 tbsp olive oil, sauté shallots until
softened over medium-high heat. Add garlic, sauté 1 minute. Carefully add vodka. 2. Cook 1 minute. Add Passata di Pomodoro, parsley, basil, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer 30 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, in a ridged grill pan, in remaining 1 tbsp oil, sauté shrimp over high heat until cooked through and slightly browned on the edges. 4. Add shrimp to sauce. Stir in cream. Gently heat through. Remove parsley and basil before serving. Serve over rigatoni. …… Excellent and elegant with a Pouilly-Fuissé.
peach martini serves 1
Just for fun, a martini recipe with a peachy vibe to drink while making dinner. For a milder version, add a splash of peach or cranberry juice.
1 1/2 oz vodka 1 oz peach schnapps Pour into a rocks glass and garnish with a peach slice.
mussels marinara serves 4
Mussels are the most versatile seafood and so inexpensive, you can make them for company without breaking the bank. Start dinner with shrimp cocktail, followed by a salad. For bigger appetites, double the recipe.
2 shallots, peeled and minced 2 tbsp olive oil 4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 2 lb mussels, cleaned 1 can good quality diced tomatoes with juices 1 cup Pinot Grigio French baguette
1. In Dutch oven, sauté shallots in olive oil until softened. Add garlic; sauté one minute. 2. Add mussels, tomatoes and wine. Cover. Cook over medium-high heat about 10 minutes or until mussels open. 3. Discard any unopened shells. Serve in shallow bowls with baguette to soak up the juices. …… Serve with Pinot Grigio. •
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Tidings uses the 100-point scale 95-100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90-94. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85-89 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80-84. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75-79. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 & under. . . . . . . . . . .
exceptional excellent very good good acceptable below average
Our Scoring
System
* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . available through wine clubs green. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . white & rosé wines red. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . red wines
the commentaries in order to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board, or its website, for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler (ON), Sean Wood (NS, NB), Gilles Bois (QC), Evan Saviolidis (ON), Harry Hertscheg (BC), Gurvinder Bhatia (AB), Rick VanSickle (ON), Ron Liteplo (AB), Tod Stewart (ON) and Jonathan Smithe (MB). Argentina // p. 58; Canada // p. 58-62; Chile // p. 62; France // p. 62-63; germany // p. 63; Hungary // p. 63;
Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category. Readers should open their palates to compare the relationship between quality and price. We’d also ask you to carefully study
Italy // p. 63-64; New Zealand // p. 64; portugal // p. 64; Spain // p. 64; United States // p. 64-65; Spirits // p. 65;
the notes\\ /Argentina /
89 Graffigna Centenario Shiraz Reserve 2008, San Juan ($12.95)
Deep ruby-purplish. Ripe black fruits, slightly jammy, spicy oak. Full and ripe; intense fruity taste and warm on the palate; velvety texture; barely tannic, round finish. Generous and ready to drink. (GBQc)
/Canada / 94 Château des Charmes Paul Bosc Estate Riesling Icewine 2009, St David’s Bench ($65) Liquid ambrosia! This vintage offers superb concentration
58 // July/August 2012
and sweetness, and is balanced by the tangy acidity. It is full-bodied, with peach and apricot preserves, honey, pineapple, applesauce, mineral and lime lingering forever on the finale. Forget the notion of dessert; just pour yourself a glass and enjoy this majestic tipple. (ES)
92 Closson Chase Vineyard Chardonnay 2009, Prince Edward County ($29.95)
Deep straw in colour; spicy, minerally, apple and pear nose with a leesy, lemony note; well-integrated oak with a fresh, lingering finish. A triumph of terroir and technique. (TA)
beer // p. 65
92 Southbrook Poetica Chardonnay 2009, Niagara ($50)
A magnificent Chardonnay that comes on like a Chassagne-Montrachet. Deep straw colour; spicy, Burgundian nose, touch of barnyard, apple; ripe and full on the palate: generous, toasty and spicy orange, pineapple and melon flavours. Great balance and length. (TA)
91 Black Hills Alibi 2010, Okanagan ($25)
75% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Sémillon — a truly great Bordeaux style: very pale in colour but amazingly concentrated and complex. Grassy, passion-fruit nose with flavours of fresh gooseberry and pear.
Long on the palate with a refreshing citrus acidity. (TA)
91 2027 Cellars Fox Croft Vineyard Riesling 2011, Niagara ($25) Winemaker Kevin Panagapka will tell you his first loves are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but, my, oh my, he has a way with Niagara Riesling. His 2011s are sourced from 2 of his favourite vineyards for Riesling, and he makes the most of a terrifying fall harvest that saw rain pummel vineyards in Niagara. The nose is redolent in peach, lemon, tangerine, citrus zest, sweet petrol and mineral. In the mouth, juicy, fuzzy peach-fruit and tangy citrus
+ A searchable listing of our tasting notes is at tidingsmag.com/notes/
\
play on the palate in a fresh, balanced attack joined on the mid-palate by a vein of wet-stone minerality. One to watch as it ages. Only available online in Ontario. (RV)
(10%). Ample red-berry fruit, with hints of sage, citrus, cinnamon and a tug of tannin. Drier and more complex than previous vintages, so more food-friendly than ever. (HH)
91 GreenLane Estate Winery Old Vines Riesling, Lincoln Lakeshore ($29.95)
90 JoieFarm Muscat 2011, Okanagan ($23)
The regular Riesling from GreenLane won gold at Cuvée, and as impressive as it is, my money is on their OV bottling, made from 22-yearold vines. Dry, there is mineral, lime, bergamot and apples layered on zesty acidity. Kudos to this small winery in Beamsville. (ES)
91 JoieFarm Riesling 2011, Okanagan ($34)
Ripe, fresh and juicy, brimming with mineral-scented apricot and mango with a hint of savoury herbs and ginger spice; great backbone, lovely fresh sweetness, but with bright, bracing acidity on the intensely long, lively finish. (GB)
91 Southbrook Whimsy! Chardonnay 2010, Niagara ($35)
Such an expressive nose of pear, pineapple, bright apples, brioche and toasty vanilla notes from aging in large French oak barrels. This delicious Chard is intense in the mouth with a ripe core of pear/apple fruit, opulent oak-inspired spice stylings, toasted almonds and vanilla. A lip-smackinggood Chardonnay. (RV)
90 JoieFarm Rosé 2011, Okanagan ($21)
Watermelon hue. More Gamay (41%) this year, backed by Pinot Noir (38%), Pinot Meunier (11%) and Pinot Gris
The effusively grapey fruit of their Naramata Bench Estategrown Moscato Giallo (Yellow Muscat) continues to seduce nose and palate. Sweet peach turns to vibrant tangerine, followed by a floral finish. The impeccable balance of fresh acidity, slight sweetness and 11% alcohol ensures a welcome after-dinner refresher. (HH)
90 Hidden Bench Felseck Vineyard Riesling 2010, Niagara ($32)
Pale straw colour with a lime tint; minerally peach and grapefruit on the nose with a honeyed note — flavours that play out on the palate carried on racy acidity. (TA)
90 Quails’ Gate Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay 2010, Okanagan ($39.99)
Spicy, ripe, creamy, generous and silky with layers of pear, apple, peach and honey aromas and flavours, deftly balanced between ripe fruit and elegant oak with a fresh, lingering finish. Fantastic with sablefish in a light peach broth. (GB)
90 Benjamin Bridge Méthode Classique Rosé 2008, Nova Scotia ($44)
Fragrantly perfumed redberry and cherry scents lead the way for expansive red-fruit flavours delivered in a delicate, slightly off-dry style. Signature Nova Scotia zesty acidity and firm mineral-
ity contrast with appealing brioche notes and creamy texture. Another example of Nova Scotia’s growing expertise in producing Traditional-Method bottlefermented sparklers. (SW)
90 Stratus White Meritage 2009, Niagara-onthe-Lake ($48)
Explosive to say the least! Even though it is almost equal parts Sauv Blanc and Sémillon, it is the SB component that dominates the nose in the form of green plums, fruit salad, passion fruit and asparagus. The Sémillon controls the mouth with its honey, pineapple and spice. Add in some toast and yeast qualities and what you have is a multi-dimensional wine that is one of Ontario’s finest White Meritages. (ES)
89 Henry of Pelham Reserve Off-Dry Riesling 2009, Niagara ($15.95) What makes this wine so attractive is the tension between the honeyed grapefruit flavour and the racy lemon-lime acidity. Great balance, giving great length on the palate. Already developing petrol notes on the nose. (TA)
89 Hester Creek Late Harvest Pinot Blanc 2010, Okanagan ($16/200 ml)
Sourced from their estate vineyards’ oldest vines, this very sweet sipper remains fresh, well balanced and refreshingly delicious. Spicy aromas and tangy flavours burst with intense peach, honey and pineapple, entwined with lingering herbal notes. A welcome treat at any time. (HH)
89 Vineland Estates Chardonnay Musqué 2010, Niagara ($17.95)
Straw colour with a lime tint, this wine has a fragrant, aromatic bouquet of apple blossom. Its spicy apple, peach and lemon flavours have an attractive touch of sweetness in mid-palate. (TA)
89 Henry of Pelham Estate Chardonnay 2010, Niagara ($20) With the 2010 vintage, Henry of Pelham replaces both the “Barrel Fermented” and “Reserve” Chard tiers with this wine, now called “Estate.” It’s made from 100% Short Hills Bench estate Chardonnay. The nose shows bright, clean apple-crisp aromas with touches of spice, cream and poached pear. It has good tension on the palate, with oak in tune with the ripe, layered fruits. It’s delicious through the finish with judicious use of oak, balanced with the ripe fruits. (RV)
89 Karlo Estates Chardonnay CHOA 2010, Prince Edward County ($25)
An interesting concept from the inventive folks at Karlo. This is fermented and aged for 3 months in “CHOA” barrels—slow-toast barrels made from mixed woods of cherry, hickory, oak and ash (hence CHOA), all grown in Prince Edward County. The nose shows sweet spice, pear, melon, clove, nutmeg, toasted caramel and vanilla. It has similar depth on the palate with pear-peach-melon fruit flavours joined by roasted almonds, nougat and sweet spices, balanced out by juicy acidity. Quite tasty. (RV)
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//the notes 89 Stag’s Hollow GVM 2010, Okanagan ($28)
A white wine, yes, from a field blend of Grenache, Viognier and Marsanne that was destemmed. It has an expressive and exotic nose of lemon tart, melon, nutty stone fruits and light spice notes. In the mouth, ripe peach and lemon-lime flavours dominate, but there are hints of roasted almonds, spice and smokiness on the finish. A complex, unique and totally delicious “white” red wine. Drink or hold this wine for a couple of years. (RV)
89 JoieFarm Rosé 2011, Okanagan ($32)
Bright and refreshing, a zinger of a rosé with aromas and flavours of strawberries, cherries, citrus and dried herbs, with great acid to balance the sweet ripe fruit; lightly grippy tannins, finishing with a creamy texture balanced by a pleasant zippiness. Gamay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Gris. Grilled salmon is as natural, as is tandoori chicken. (GB)
89 Gaspereau Vineyards Chardonnay (Brut) 2009, Nova Scotia ($38)
Traditional Method. Bright citrus and green apple with a lightly toasty note and some caramel on the nose. Mouthpuckering green-apple crispness in the mouth with mineral and subtle brioche creaminess on the finish. (SW)
89 Stratus Viognier 2009, Niagara-onthe-Lake ($38)
This rendition captures the exotic notes found in a Condrieu, but it is definitely Canadian in its cool-climate
60 // July/August 2012
mouthfeel. Aromas of banana, peach juice, papaya, white flowers, yogurt and hints of blueberry flow into an elegant texture, with fresh acidity and a lengthy aftertaste. (ES)
89 Stratus White 2008, Niagara-on-the-Lake ($44)
For the number-lovers out there, this vintage contains 37% Chardonnay, 28% Sémillon, 23% Sauvignon Blanc and 6% each of Gewürz and Viognier. The toast, peach, lanolin, honey, spice and vanilla on the nose mesh with apple, citrus and rosewater on the palate. There is refreshing acidity and some heat on the finale. (ES)
88 Jost Vineyards Eagle Tree Muscat 2010, Nova Scotia ($14.99)
Aromatic rose petal, orange citrus and just a hint of muscat-like pungency. Ripe green fruit flavours, gentle acidity and a touch of mineral and lychee on the finish. (SW)
88 Quails’ Gate Gewürztraminer 2011, Okanagan ($17)
Sports characteristic lychee, rose-petal and spice-driven aromas and flavours. Lively acidity balances its off-dry sweetness, while the succulent, medium-bodied texture doesn’t cloy. Long finish with hints of white pepper. A refreshing accompaniment for the cheese course. (HH)
88 Featherstone Canadian Oak Chardonnay 2010, Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara ($22)
The oak was grown along the Grand River in Ontario. Straw-coloured with a nose of oaky-resiny and apple aromas;
full-bodied on the palate with a rich mouthfeel, its spicy, toasty caramel flavours indicate it’s ready for drinking. (TA)
88 JoieFarm Riesling 2011, Okanagan ($23)
Vibrant acidity balances the rich sweetness (19g/l). Fresh apple, subtle mint and tangy lime mingle with ginger spice. Bright lemon-drop and ripe mango flavours burst on the palate. Lip-smacking candied citrus-peel finish. Refreshing with spicy barbecue or Asian dishes. (HH)
88 JoieFarm Unoaked Chardonnay 2011, Okanagan ($23)
Sourced from 5 vineyards in Cawston, Oliver and Naramata Bench. Granny Smith apple, Anjou pear and Meyer lemon predominate on the delicate nose and minerally palate. Lees stirring adds mouthfeel, while the lean 12.2% alcohol ensures liveliness. The briny note begs for oysters. (HH)
88 Quails’ Gate Chenin Blanc 2011, Okanagan ($23) Charming, crisp and fruity, a delicious mouthful of grapefruit, peach, citrus, melon and passion fruit with bright acidity and a mouth-watering finish. Fun to drink, especially with oysters. (GB)
88 Quails’ Gate Gewürztraminer 2011, Okanagan ($23.99)
Bright, zippy and off-dry, with aromatics that jump out of the glass; spice, lychee fruit, cinnamon and grapefruit, with great balance between sweetness and acid and a lovely expressive finish. Great with slightly spicy cuisines or just quaffing on the patio. (GB)
88 Karlo Estates Van Alstine White 2010, Prince Edward County ($29/500 ml)
Made with estate-grown Frontenac Blanc and Gewürz. The nose shows lychee, apricot, marmalade, cloves and hazelnuts. It’s ripe and sweet on the palate with flavours of mango, honey, layers of spice, grapefruit concentrate, nutmeg, toffee and some heat on the back of the palate. There’s a lot going on with this unique fortified white. (RV)
88 Stratus Sémillon 2009, Niagara-onthe-Lake ($38)
There are not too many single-varietal Sémies in Ontario, and this one requires heat and a long hang time. To ensure ripeness, in 2009, Stratus picked their grapes on December 3rd! It may not be as blousy as some Aussie versions, but it is definitely emblematic with all of its apricot, wax, lanolin, honey and spice qualities. The acidity and very good length make for an appealing bottle of wine. (ES)
87 Quails’ Gate Dry Riesling 2011, Okanagan ($17)
Both nose and palate express the clean, refreshing essence of lemon-lime. Crisp green apple and sweet ripe pear set up a lingering spike of pineapple. Dry, lip-smacking minerally finish. Give this a swirl with barbecued pulled pork aside tangy coleslaw. (HH)
86 Inniskillin Tenacity White NV, Niagara ($14)
Pale straw colour; minerally, white peach and citrus-peel nose; dry and fragrant, flavours of peach and pear ending on an apple note. (TA)
86 Quails’ Gate Rosé 2011, Okanagan ($15)
Pale rose-petal hue on this Gamay-dominant (85%) rosé, topped with Pinot Noir (10%) and Pinot Gris (5%). Candyapple and rhubarb aromas. Tart, sweet red-berry flavours embrace an herbaceous tinge and a citrus-peel finish. For summertime lunch fare. (HH)
92 Ravine Vineyards Reserve Picone Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2010, Niagara ($40)
A killer wine and a brilliant example of where this varietal can go in a ripe vintage when grown and made with care. The nose shows wonderful raspberry-cherry fruit, tobacco, plums, blueberry pie, violets and integrated spice notes. It shows wonderful balance in the mouth, with the fruits well-integrated, fine tannins and an underhanded approach to the oak spices. Just a very fine, elegant Cab Franc that will absolutely wow you. (RV)
92 Stag’s Hollow Cachet No. 2 2009, Okanagan ($50)
It’s a blend of Grenache (50%), Syrah (46%) and the rest Viognier and Marsanne. Only 80 cases of this top wine were produced. What a nose! Sweet raspberry, currants, violets, liquorice, tar, campfire smoke, vanilla and tobacco leaf burst from the glass. It’s big, bold and weighty on the palate with anise, red fruits, figs, cracked red peppercorns, fine tannins, and layers of pleasure through the finish. (RV)
91 Southbrook Whimsy! “Who You Calling Petit” Petit Verdot 2010, Niagara ($35) The debut of this variety, from
less than an acre of Petit Verdot planted at the estate. Only a tiny amount is available (2 barrels, or 48 cases). The wine was aged in 100% oak from the Bertranges forest in France for 6 months. There’s a lot to like about this big red, and it starts on the nose with plums, cassis, herbs, layers of sweet spices and a touch of liquorice. The array of dense, powerful fruits on the palate is backed up by firm tannins and high acids. A keeper for the cellar. (RV)
91 Hidden Bench Estate Pinot Noir 2009, Niagara ($38)
Deeply coloured with a bouquet of raspberry and smoky note; lovely mouthfeel, very Burgundian with raspberry, graphite, earth and beetroot tones. A joy to drink now but should age well. (TA)
91 Ravine Vineyard Reserve Picone Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2010, Vinemount Ridge ($40) The Vinemount appellation might be better known for Riesling production, but there is no denying the quality of this wine. Mid-weight, it starts with red-berry fruits: cherries, strawberries and raspberries. This is followed by graphite, herbs, cassis, violets and spice. The tannins are ripe and well integrated, allowing for immediate drinkability, and it will continue to improve over the next 7 years. (ES)
91 Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin 2004, Okanagan ($44.25) Arguably the best Bordeaux blend this side of the border, how does Le Grand Vin behave over time? Approaching 8 years of age, this bottle
shows a youthful ruby colour; its nose still has generous black-fruit notes, and oak is very present, but tertiary aromas have started to appear (cedar, smoke). Compact, the thick texture has layers of fruit and flavours brought by the oak. Acidity is moderate; balance is excellent through the finish. Another 5 years or so before it reaches its peak. (GBQc)
90 Gaspereau Vineyards Pinot Noir (Natural Brut) 2009, Nova Scotia ($45)
91 Lighthall Reserve Particulière Les Grands Pinot Noir 2009, Prince Edward County ($50)
90 Flat Rock Pinot Noir Reserve 2009, Niagara ($45)
Only 2 barrels were made of this Pinot that spent 8 months in all-new oak. It shows ripe cherry, raspberry, smoke and bramble on the nose. It’s nicely structured on the palate with cherry-brambleearth flavours to go with oak-inspired spices and ripe tannins. Racy acidity; firm and pretty Pinot with a long and graceful life ahead. (RV)
90 Nk’Mip Qwam Qwmt Meritage 2008, Okanagan ($30)
Dense ruby colour with a nose of cedar, blackcurrant and blueberry; medium-bodied, dry with flavours of blackcurrant and dark chocolate, finishing with powdery tannins. (TA)
90 Colaneri Insieme 2009, Niagara ($34.95)
This appassimento blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot won the best red blend category at this year’s Cuvée gala. Medium- to full-bodied, it is concentrated, churning out black pepper, cherries, earth, cassis and liquorice. Suave tannins complement everything. (ES)
Fragrant Pinot Noir varietal fruit expression together with elegant floral and light biscuity overtones. Fruit is equally animated on the palate with initial sweet ripeness, then contrasting vibrant acidity and mineral grip, with slightly softening creaminess on the finish. (SW)
Light ruby colour with a minerally, cherry nose; elegant raspberry and cherry flavours, velvety on the palate with a dry, firm finish (TA).
90 Road 13 Castle Vineyard Jackpot Pinot Noir 2009, Okanagan ($45)
Polished, silky and complex, velvety at the edges, with a glowing core of bright cherry, raspberry, currant and dark plum-fruit surrounded by hints of earth, tea and a natural Okanagan savouriness. The texture is soft and the flavours pure as it all comes together on the long, gentle finish. (GB)
89 Quails’ Gate Pinot Noir 2009, Okanagan ($24.99)
Deeply coloured, with a nose of black cherries and oak spice; full on the palate with well-extracted fruit; dry and firmly structured. (TA)
89 Ravine Vineyard Meritage 2010, St David’s Bench ($25)
This blend of 50% Merlot and equal parts of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon dishes out a perfume of
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//the notes menthol, cherries, plums, liquorice and vanilla. The texture is round, and significant tannins encompass the flavourful aftertaste. Drink it until 2018. (ES)
89 Harwood Marquesa 2010, Prince Edward County ($29/375 ml)
Made in the style of a fine Port, this fortified wine, crafted from the Marquette grape, is a highly unusual treat, with an intoxicating nose of sweet raisin, currants, lavish spice, chocolate and cassis. It’s a touch hot on the palate but delivers a wonderfully intense experience with rich dark fruits, sweet spices and roasted nut flavours. A wine to enjoy on a cold winter’s night beside the fire. (RV)
88 Southbrook Organic Connect Red 2011, Niagara ($14.95)
A Bordeaux-style blend: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc. Deep ruby colour with a complex nose of vanilla oak, cedar and blackcurrant with a floral note; medium-bodied, fruity and fresh with currant flavours backed by vanilla oak and finishing with soft tannins. Good value. (TA)
88 Stratus Red 2008, Niagara-on-the-Lake ($44) 2008 was certainly not an undemanding red-wine vintage in Ontario. That being said, Stratus has pulled off a minor miracle with their signature red. Cherry, plum, liquorice, bell pepper/mint, cocoa and spice swirl around a core of supple tannins. It is ready to drink now or over the next 3 years. (ES)
62 // July/August 2012
87 Cave Spring Merlot 2008, Niagara Escarpment ($17.95)
Ruby with a tawny rim; on the nose, earthy plum and vanilla oak. Medium-bodied, creamy texture with a nicely balanced dry red-berry flavour. A good effort in a difficult vintage. (TA)
87 Mastronardi Merlot/ Cabernet 2008, Lake Erie North Shore ($20)
Deep ruby in colour with a floral, red-berry nose accented with smoky vanilla oak and cedar notes; medium-bodied, firmly structured, lean and sinewy on the palate with flavours of redcurrant. (TA)
87 Quails’ Gate Pinot Noir 2010, Okanagan ($25)
Bright red berries and earthy forest floor tease the nose. Tart cherry and ripe raspberry flavours enliven the mediumbodied, savoury-toned palate. The sour-cherry-and-cinnamon-stick finish lingers warmly. Try with a beet salad topped with goat cheese and toasted walnuts. (HH)
87 Burrowing Owl Athene 2009, Okanagan ($35) The duo of Syrah (52%) and Cab Sauv (48%) delivers floral, blueberry and black pepper from the former and cassis, tobacco and structured tannin from the latter. The mostly French and American oak treatment adds layers of spiciness: clove, vanilla and coffee. Grilled steak will tame its astringency. (HH)
87 Laughing Stock Vineyards Blind Trust Red 2009, Okanagan ($38) Soft and round with ripe berries, chocolate, leather, tobacco and a touch of
meatiness; supple tannins, a bit raw with respect to finesse but quite plush and drinkable. Will improve and become more integrated with a little more time in the bottle. (GB)
86 Calliope Figure Eight 2010, Okanagan ($20)
The Syrah (78%) brings out the floral, blueberry, smoked meat and black pepper character. The Merlot (22%) adds fruitier red cherry, ripe raspberry and juicy plum. Oak aging incorporates some chocolate and coffee character. A match for barbecuesauced meats. (HH)
86 Mission Hill Family Estate Pinot Noir Reserve 2008, Okanagan ($25) Nice red-fruits nose, quite ripe with a hint of beets. Balanced acidity, slightly shy fruity taste; barely rough tannins of good quality. (GBQc)
/Chile / 88 Villard Le Pinot Noir Grand Vin 2009, Casablanca ($20)
Clear medium-cherry red with a nose of strawberries, violets, toasted oak and raisins that gains power with a little air time. Aims for a Burgundian style, but this is still Chilean fruit-forward. Lively acidity, dreamy silky texture. (RL)*
87 Santa Alicia Carménère Reserva 2010, Maipo Valley ($11.95)
A dark cherry colour summons the plum, mint, Worcester sauce, vanilla, smoke and violets. It is soft and easy drinking with slight heat from the 14% alcohol that presents itself on the finish. (ES)
87 Cono Sur Pinot Noir Reserva 2010, Casablanca ($16.20)
Cherry red. Fine nose of small red berries, a little spice from the oak and notes of fruit stones. Lively acidity in the attack; the fruity core is a tad warm on the tongue but without any burning sensation, even in the long finish. Try it on a grilled salmon steak or a hamburger. (GBQc)
86 Torres Santa Digna Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Central Valley ($14.95)
Deep ruby. Light nose of earth, blackberries, alcohol. Generous ripe fruity taste, it feels warm on the tongue. The barely rough tannins can be felt in the finish of good length. Ready to drink. (GBQc)
/France / 91 Bachelder Bourgogne Chardonnay 2009, Burgundy ($35)
The grapes for Thomas Bachelder’s Burgundy expression were sourced from the Côte du Beaune and produced at Alex Gambal’s winery. It is certainly the most mineralladen of the 3 wines and the tightest at the moment. It reveals notes of citrus, stone fruits, acacia blossom, and limestone minerality. It’s bathed in wet-stone minerality on the palate with lemon, lime, stone fruits and green pear, and underlying spice on the palate. An elegant and pure expression of Chardonnay to round out the trilogy of wines from Bachelder. (RV)
90 Château de Manissy Rosé 2009, Tavel ($17)
Medium cherry/copper, this wine exudes mouth-watering strawberry, citrus and watermelon aromas. The flavours are interesting: cherry and strawberry with a distinct touch of hazelnut. At a picnic, this will stand up to roast beef. Will peak next year. (RL)*
88 La Source Rosé 2009, Bordeaux ($22)
Light tangerine colour, with passion fruit, cherry and cantaloupe but a hint of sulphur on the nose of the first glass. Light-bodied, the flavours are dominated by strawberry with honeydew melon, apple and a delightful touch of mint. Try with a baguette and some mild cheese. (RL)*
87 Château Bellevue La Forêt Rosé 2010, Fronton, Southwest ($15.75)
This blend of Négrette, Syrah and Gamay shows a nice dark pink colour. Light nose of strawberry and watermelon. Intense fruity taste; the mellow finish is a bit warm on the tongue. Drink now, well cooled. (GBQc)
89 Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup 2010, Languedoc ($15)
Surprisingly light colour belies the impact of spicy, peppery red-fruit character. Cherry and raspberry flavours and peppery spice dance in the mouth. Food-friendly dry grip makes this a great match for spicy red meats and grills. (SW)
89 Domaine du Château de Chorey Vieilles Vignes Château Germain 2009, Burgundy ($24.90) Medium ruby. Typical Burgundian nose of small red
fruits and earth. Fruity attack, lively acidity, medium body; tight middle palate and very dry finish. Ready to drink, this is a nice glass from Burgundy. (GBQc)
88 Louis Eschenauer Réserve 2010, Bordeaux ($15)
Purplish, nice red fruits on the intense nose; well-dosed oak and a touch of minerality (lead pencil). Medium body with a slightly coarse mouthfeel and a delicate fruity taste. Ready to drink and perfect with a grilled slice of beef. (GBQc)
88 Chanson Le Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2009, Burgundy ($18)
For a simple, inexpensive Pinot Noir, there’s a lot to like about this wine, with its nose of black and sour cherries, cocoa, earth and charred oak spices. It has lovely texture in the mouth with cassis, cherry, raspberry, evident tannins and a fair amount of length through the finish. (RV)
88 Domaine de Fontsainte 2009, Corbières ($19.50)
Dark fruit compote with suggestions of fig and clove on the nose and lightly sweet dark-fruit flavours, supported by solid weight and structure. Chocolate and spice with counterbalancing firm, dry tannins round out the finish. (SW)
87 Domaine Beau Mistral Saint Martin Rasteau 2009, Côtes du Rhône ($23)
A Rhône blend of 45% Grenache, 45% Syrah, and 10% Mourvèdre from 60- to
90-year-old vines. A nose of kirsch, raspberry, cherry, plum, earth and a nice chocolate note. This is juicy stuff in the mouth with dark, rich fruits, liquorice, earth, tar and fine tannins. A nice treat for lovers of this rustic yet pleasing style. (RV)
86 Chapoutier Belleruche 2009, Côtes du Rhône ($18.29)
Shows white pepper and dark fruit on the nose. Dark fruit theme carries through on the palate with full-bodied blackberry and black cherry, firm tannins and plenty of alcohol, leaving a touch of heat on the finish. (SW)
85 Domaine Billard Père et Fils Beaune Les Bons Feuvres 2005, Côte du Beaune ($21)
Medium plum-red. The aromas are of cherries, blackberries, oak and spice, and become quite alluring with time in the glass. In the mouth one could wish for a little more of the red-berry fruit and a little less acidity. Medium-bodied, this is a decent entry-level Burgundy. (RL)*
/Germany / 90 Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett 2008, Mosel ($22)
At only 7% alcohol, this German Riesling from the Mosel is a wine you can gulp down all in one sitting … and you just might do that, it’s that good. A lime bomb on the nose, with gunflint, grapefruit and white peach aromas. It dances lightly on the palate
with a vibrant core of natural acidity. It’s sweet, yes, but not at all unbalanced. Hold for 5 to 10 years to appreciate the emerging petrol notes. (RV)
/Hungary / 86 Torley Hungaria Sauvignon Blanc 2010 ($10)
Hungary continues to turn out some cheap, yet well-made, wines that deserve our attention. This SB shows tropical fruits, gooseberry and melon on the nose. Those ripe fruits are lifted by racy acidity and clean flavours through the finish. Serve with summer salads and white fish. (RV)
/Italy / 91 San Felice Il Grigio Chianti Classico Riserva 2007, Tuscany ($27)
A Sangiovese that spends 18 months in oak and a further 6 months in bottle before it’s released. It possesses a classic old-school nose of violets, earth, red fruits, toasted oak and spice. In the mouth, this juicy wine shows its stuff — plums, bramble fruit, spice, firm tannins, tar and vibrant core of acidity. Cellar 5 years. (RV)
88 Adalia Laute 2010, Valpolicella DOC ($21.50)
Characteristic cherry and plum scents with distinctive glace-cherry spiciness lead into warm, ripe fruit on the palate. Generous fruit is held in check by solid tannic structure and bright acidity. Appetizing bittercherry finish. (SW)
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//the notes 88 Carpineto Dogajolo 2010, Tuscany IGT ($16)
Nice red fruit, a touch of spice and oak notes. Medium body, soft texture. Slightly warm, almost firm tannins; nice long finish with a tad of bitterness. Drink now. (GBQc)
/New / Zealand 88 Rabbit Ranch Pinot Noir 2009, Central Otago ($25)
I love the savoury cherry-fruit, raspberry, flint and smoky notes on the nose of this wonderful Pinot. It is ripe and juicy on the palate with cherry–bramble–forest-floor flavours, bright acidity and a clean finish. Delicious! The wine is named to honour the local rabbit population. A good match for coq au vin. (RV)
/Spain / 86 La Casona de Castaño Old Vines Monastrell 2009, Yecla DOC ($9)
A nose of blueberry, cherry, plums and light spice. The mouth shows bright plums and berries with grippy tannins and a kiss of oak spice. The ultimate porch-sipper when unexpected thirsty
neighbours show up at the door. Serve with tapas. (RV)
87 Montecillo Crianza 2008, Rioja ($14.95)
Medium ruby. Inviting nose of vanilla and red cherry, a hint of spice. Well-balanced, light-tomedium body with a nice fruity core, the smooth tannins bring firmness to the mediumlength finish. Quite pleasant on its own or with simple red-meat dishes. (GBQc)
/Portugal / 91 Churchill Estates 2004, Douro ($16)
A well-priced opportunity to try some different varietals, like the Touriga Nacional in this blend. Medium-deep American Beauty red, with a promising fine-particle haze. Delivers intense pipe tobacco, liquorice and strawberry-jam aromas. Medium-bodied, dark cherry flavours; still-prominent tannins, tastes less complex than that wonderful nose suggests. At its best now. (RL)*
91 Churchill Graham Quinta da Agua Vintage Port 1998 ($24/375 ml) Medium garnet, with the expected vintage Port sediment. Booming nose of
quince, figs and cedar. Tastes of luscious stewed berries and plums; complex and interesting. The alcohol level is quite high; drink this at home. (RL)*
/United / States 91 Hall Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Napa Valley ($30)
This SB exemplifies the new style, which California is now becoming known for: crisp, fruit-driven and food-versatile. Melon, grapefruit, minerals, tropical fruit and asparagus are all in the mix. The long finale makes for a great partner with a beet, olive oil and quinoa salad or pan-seared chilicrusted scallops. (ES)
89 Robert Mondavi Chardonnay 2009, Napa Valley ($30)
Two-thirds fermented in French barriques, partial malolactic fermentation and sur-lie aging has produced highly focused, bright, clean citrus fruit, well-poised balance and a subtle touch of lemon butter on the finish. (SW)
89 Bachelder Oregon Chardonnay 2009, Oregon ($35)
Thomas Bachelder chose the Willamette Valley to source
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64 // July/August 2012
his grapes and the Lemelson Vineyards winery to make the wine. It’s lovely on the nose, with a ripe expression of Bosc pear, citrus, cantaloupe, and subtle oak and spice. It’s defined by a supple texture in the mouth with ripe fruits, minerals and a juicy vein of acidity running through the core. Well-made Oregon wine with fine balance. (RV)
93 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2009, Napa Valley ($135)
80% driven by Mondavi’s To Kalon home-vineyard fruit, with the balance coming from the best blocks of other top vineyards. Shows restrained but very pure dark fruit on the nose with a subtle herbal note. Really opens up in the mouth with plum-cake richness and spice, plush velvety tannins, a lick of dark chocolate. Fine overall balance and a long, complex finish. Great Napa Cab as I recall it used to be. (SW)
87 181 Merlot 2009, Lodi, California ($17)
The 181 referred to in the name of this California red refers to the clone of Merlot from Bordeaux, France. This is a very nice wine with dark cherry, eucalyptus, spice and
raspberry notes on the nose. It’s quite smooth on the palate with intense red fruits and a touch of liquorice and spice, plush tannins and long finish. A great find! (RV)
/Spirits / Jim Beam White Label Bourbon, USA ($27)
The flagship of the Jim Beam line-up is aged four years and sports a clean, forward nose of toffee, candied orange and sweet corn. Smooth and fairly gentle on the palate, it is mildly smoky with hints of clove, vanilla and caramel. Nicely balanced, it finishes with lingering butterscotch and smoke notes. (TS)
Jim Beam Black Label Bourbon, USA ($29)
Six years in barrel gives Jim Beam Black Label more colour and complexity both in terms or aromatics and flavour than the White Label. The sweet corn notes still show through but are complemented by sultana/ fruitcake elements, a touch of charred oak and a kick of vanilla and pepper. (TS)
Jim Beam Devil’s Cut, USA ($29)
Beam’s new Devil’s Cut uses a proprietary system that extracts whiskey from the wood in which it is aged. This potent extract is then blended with 6-year-old bourbon, resulting in a full-bodied expression with aromatics of exotic spice, dried fruit, treacle and marmalade. Assertive in the mouth with overtones of molasses, honey and tangerine. Serve with a dash of spring water. (TS)
Canadian Club Dock No.57 Spiced Whisky, Canada ($25)
Named after an infamous Prohibition-era shipping dock used to help move Canadian Club whisky south of the border. Hints of rye grain, vanilla, cinnamon and citrus segue to a sweet/spicy palate with suggestions of vanilla bean and crème brûlée and a long, warm end notes. (TS)
Highland Park Valhalla Collection “Thor”, UK ($250)
The first of four unique whiskies released annually by Highland Park under the Valhalla Collection umbrella. Bottled at 52.1% and eyecatchingly packaged, Thor offers up a complex aromatic profile with cognac-like nuances buttressed by smoke, cocoa, ginger, toasted nuts, cigar box and a bare whiff of tar. With a dash of water to temper the heat, the whisky displays an intriguing mélange of brine, smoke, tobacco leaf, dried fruit and exotic spices. Like a hammer wrapped in velvet. (TS)
/Beer / Les Brasseurs RJ Belle Gueule Rousse, Quebec ($8.99/6 pack)
Light brown. Fresh nose of malt with yeasty notes. Light body, intense malt flavour. Nicely refreshing; a tad bitter in the finish. (GBQc)
Les Brasseurs RJ Belle Gueule Originale, Quebec ($8.99/6 pack)
Pale amber, pure nose of hops and malt in equal proportions. Clean, it smells of “nature.”
Flavourful, nicely refreshing with a touch of citrus. Long aftertaste. (GBQc).
Les Brasseurs RJ Belle Gueule Pilsner, Quebec ($8.99/6 pack) Intense yellow. Lots of hops on the expressive nose with yeast and citrus notes. Light taste, very refreshing; clean, round finish. The perfect thirst-quencher on a hot summer day. (GBQc)
Les Brasseurs du Nord Boréale Rousse, Quebec ($8.99/6 pack)
Dark amber with a persistent foamy crown. Malt-dominated nose with only a touch of hops, caramel and yeast. Low to moderate acidity, delicate creamy mouthfeel. Persistent taste; good body and freshness. Excellent. (GBQc)
Garrison Brewery Premium Sugar Moon Maple All-Natural Strong Ale 6.3%, Nova Scotia ($4.25/500 ml) Pronounced maple sugar aroma, with similarly striking maple flavour and fruity malt on the palate. Good weight and lingering maple flavour with fruity malt and a nice touch of bitterness on the finish. Warming and easy to like. (SW)
Garrison Ol’ Fog Burner Barley Wine 11.5%, Nova Scotia ($6.99/500 ml)
Deep orange amber colour with complex aromas of sherried fruit, caramel, piquant spice and a whiff of herb. Rich, smooth, fruity sweetness through mid-palate with emphatically dry dark-chocolate bitterness on the finish. (SW)
Garrison Ol’ Fog Burner Glenora Barrel-Aged Barley Wine 11.5%, Nova Scotia ($12.99/500 ml) Aged 9 months in used malt whisky barrels from Nova Scotia’s Glenora Distillery, this variation offers subtle, complex aromas of cinnamon and dried citrus-fruit peel with light malty and herbal overtones. A generous mouthful of flavours offers fruitcake spiciness, sherried notes and an agreeable touch of smoky dryness. Well-integrated spicy dried fruit and bitterness on the finish. (SW)
Garrison Adam und Eric’s Neuschottland Schwarz (Black) Lager, Nova Scotia ($4.25/500 ml) Winner of Garrison Brewery’s 2011 Ultimate Brew-Off Competition for home brewers. Garrison brews a batch of the prize-winning brew each year, which is then labelled and sold at the brewery. This interpretation of a traditional German regional style is almost black in the glass, with smoky roasted chocolate-malt character and a hint of fruitiness on the nose. Lightly sweet citrus and contrasting dark malt flavours meld very smoothly on the palate, making it deceptively easy to drink. (SW)
Pump House Brewery Premium Lager, New Brunswick ($23.99/case) Newly released 100% pure lager style, showing nutty malt with light yeasty and hoppy background notes. Lightly sweet citrus and malt flavours with creamy texture and a touch of bitterness on the finish. (SW)
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final word
a cold war\\
Steven Spurrier has a lot to answer for. In 1976 the English wine merchant, who lived in Paris at the time, set up the first international wine taste-off between the champion France and the challenger California. This event has gone down in history as “The Judgment of Paris” and even spawned a movie called Bottle Shock. You may recall that a California Chardonnay 1973 from Château Montelena and a Cabernet Sauvignon 1973 from Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars were placed above white Burgundy and red Bordeaux by French tasters in a blind tasting. It was this event that put California on the wine map. That format of pitting region or national wines against each other has been replicated many times since, and the seminal Paris tasting subsequently was reprised by Spurrier 30 years later with similar results. The concept is, of course, for emerging wine regions to flex their muscles on an international stage against the proven lions of the global wine industry. But the home team always has the advantage because the organizers can engineer the desired results, even when they are trying to be scrupulously fair. You may recall that a Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2005 bested 14 wines from France and California at a blind tasting by Quebec wine professionals in Montreal in 2006. In March I was invited, along with seven other international judges — including Steven Spurrier — to participate in such a blind tasting at VinCE, the consumer wine fair in Budapest. The format was simple enough: there were 11 Hungarian wines pitted against 11 international wines of the same varietal or wines of similar style. To give you a sense of the fight card: Kertész Chardonnay 2009 from the Hungarian region of Etyek versus
66 // July/August 2012
by tony aspler
Montes Alpha Chardonnay 2010 from Chile (Montes won on points). Vylyan Gambás Pinot Noir 2008 from Villány vs Pierre André Gevrey-Chambertin 2006 from Burgundy (Hungary by a TKO); and Puklus Tokaji Aszúeszencia 2003 vs Peter Lehman Botrytis Semillon 2008 from Australia (the Aszu by a knockout). When the dust settled the Hungarians had won eight of the 11 bouts, much to the delight of the local press. Two days later I conducted a Master Class on Icewine for 70 people at the wine fair. Had I chosen the wines I would have made sure that there would be at least one German Eiswein in the lineup, since one has to pay homage to the country that invented the category. The organizers managed to put together the following seven wines, which were served in this order:
»» Casa Peiso Blaufränkisch Eiswein 2009 (Austria) »» Pillitteri Cabernet Franc Icewine (Niagara Peninsula, Ontario) »» Weingut Alfred Fischer Grüner Veltliner Eiswein 2005 (Neusiedlersee, Austria)
»» Ice Wine Myskhako 2009 (Black Sea Coast, Russia) »» Borbély Family Wine Cellar Badacsonyi Olasz Riesling Icewine 2009 (Hungary)
»» Esterhazy Cuvée Eiswein 2009 (Austria) »» Pillitteri Vidal Icewine 2006 (Ontario) The two surprises for me were the Russian Ice Wine (the winemaker was in the audience) and the Austrian Grüner Veltliner Eiswein. The Russian because of its finesse and lightness on the palate; the Grüner Veltliner because it retained its varietal character (of peach and white pepper) that usually get lost in Icewine. At the end of the tasting I asked the participants for a show of hands as to which of the Icewines they liked best. A few hands shot up as I read out the names in the serving order. When I got to Pillitteri Vidal Icewine 2006, there was a forest of hands in the air. This was not a competition, but in a very understated, Canadian way, Canada owned the podium. Charlie Pillitteri should be proud. •
illustration: FRancesco Gallé, www.francescogalle.com
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Feel free to roam. TRAVEL WORRY-FREE WITH A ROAMING DATA PASS.
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EASY & AFFORDABLE ROAMING DATA PASSES. ONLY FROM ROGERS. 1
Search for tourist attractions and restaurants, share pics with Facebook, email, IM and more! Day and Month Roaming Data Passes available for U.S. and international destinations • Monitor your usage with near real-time text alerts sent to your Rogers mobile device as you consume your Roaming Data Pass (text alerts are free of charge)2 •
Ensure you always know what you’re going to pay with a one-time fixed fee and built-in data service safeguards • Buy on your Rogers mobile device when you arrive at your destination or pre-purchase up to 30 days before you travel •
Buy a Roaming Data Pass right on your Rogers mobile device – anywhere in the world. It’s easy! Text TRAVEL to 7626 and follow the prompts.
To learn more, visit rogers.com/roaming
. 1 Includes on-device mobile browsing, email, instant messaging and application usage for 24 hours (Day Pass) or 744 hours (Month Pass) from time of activation (or until included data is depleted) on select Rogers certified devices. Excludes tethering (use of device as wireless modem). Pass activates upon first 1 KB of data usage on roaming partner network after subscriber device registration and expires if not activated within 30 days from date of purchase. Usage subject to Rogers Terms of Service and Acceptable Use Policy, rogers.com/terms. 2 Text alerts are not available on tablet devices that are incapable of sending or receiving text messages. ™Trademarks of or used under license from Rogers Communications Inc. or an affiliate. © 2012 Rogers Communications
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