Tidings July/August 2013

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//features 20// hybrid

by Crystal Luxmore An emerging beer style is turning a vintner’s waste into brewer’s gold.

22// Happy birthday Canada

by Michael pinkus Take out the bubbly. Canada’s sparkling is making the grade.

22

30// OK go

26// Other brothers by evan saviolidis

Varietals and limestone connect Prince Edward County with the Old World.

28// wave by sean wood

Defining Nova Scotia’s Tidal Bay.

by Tim pawsey

Rosé from the Okanagan. Nuf said.

32// The cor

by Rick Vansickle

They once dominated the highest ranks of Canada’s largest wine company — Vincor. But where are they now? A Tidings exclusive.

37// Extra Light by merle Rosenstein

We want less alcohol. Are winemakers getting the message?

40// eat the music by duncan holmes

Celebrating Canada’s musicians through food.

45// mixed company by merle Rosenstein

Beer in your cocktails make for some interesting drinks.

48// Scream

by Rosemary Mantini

45 32

We all scream for it. Guess what it is.

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//Ă la carte 7// Contributors 8// from the editor 11// Conversations Letters to the editor.

13// feed

Tom Delarzac

14// Umami Joanne Will

17// lazy mixologist Crystal Luxmore

18// Bon Vivant Peter Rockwell

51// Matter of taste sheila swerling-puritt

52// Davine

Gurvinder Bhatia

55// Bouquet Garni Nancy Johnson

58// Must try Lisa Hoekstra

52

66// final word

17 //notes 50// the mav notes

54// the food notes

An appetizing selection of food-friendly faves.

Tony Aspler

58// The Buying Guide

Top wines from around the world scored.

argentina // p. 59 Australia // p. 59 Canada // p. 59-62 chile // p. 62 France // p. 62-63 Germany // p. 63-64

58 4 // July/August 2013

greece // p. 64 italy // p. 64 New Zealand // p. 64 spain // p. 65 United States // p. 64 cider // p. 65

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//online

//contributors

+ more on quenchbytidings.com

Follow us on twitter and tumblr Quenchbytidings.tumblr.com twitter.com/quenchbytidings Sean Wood is a weekly wine columnist for the Halifax Chronicle Herald. He has written for both national and international wine magazines and travels frequently to report on wine regions throughout the world. He has provided consulting services to government on wine-related issues as well to the hospitality industry. Sean also serves frequently as a wine judge. His book Wineries and Wine Country of Nova Scotia was published in September 2006.

Travel Gurvinder Bhatia takes you on a guided tour of India’s food culture.

Summer recipes A Wild Mix; The Beach Ball; Canadian Kabobs, and more….

Cooking challenge Mexican Garlic Chicken.

Feature Matthew Sullivan discovers the beauty of Italian bitters.

Chaos and Canapés Awaken your tastebuds with citrus.

Crystal Luxmore is a Toronto writer, editor and roving beer reporter. She writes a bi-weekly “Hopped Up” column in The Grid newspaper, and her stories have appeared in the Globe & Mail, ELLE Canada, The Walrus, Beer Advocate, Reader’s Digest and online for the New York Times and CBC.

New videos Visit videos.quenchbytidings.com to see contributing editor, Gurvinder Bhatia on the Grapeful Palate.

Plus!

Original recipes; a daily serving of food

and drink news and views; culinary tips, tricks and techniques.

Evan Saviolidis is the Wine Tasting Challenge Grand Champion, Instructor for the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers, and teaches wine appreciation courses in Niagara at WineSavvy. For complete information, please visit www.evanwinesavvy.com.

Next Month In Tidings Chile’s white wine dream Get right with riesling To Kalon Vineyard: at the heart of Napa Now That’s a sour beer Walking the farmers’ market Difficult growing: the agony of Pinot noir

A former engineer, Gilles Bois is now devoting time to his passion: tasting wines from everywhere and meeting the people who make them.

As a wine judge or in the vineyard, he is always on the lookout for an original bottle worth writing about.

Wines in Arizona? Really? ... And So Much More

quenchbytidings.com

\\ 7

//from the editor july/August 2013 Issue # 312

\\

13 annual Canadian issue th

inconspicuous I don’t like to make myself known. Well I prefer to be anonymous. But let me back up. You see, usually I end up visiting a winery on a press junket. While always pleasant, I sometimes feel as if we’re being carted around on a cloud. Things are too perfect.

The best, most informed staff are placed in front of us. We’re presented the twice cleaned glasses, while someone slowly massages our feet … that last bit might be a bit of a stretch but you get where I am going. Things are too primped up.

So in order to get a truer sense of what the average wine lover is looking for, I decide to visit wine country incognito, at least once every two years. I stop just short of donning a moustache and a fake accent. I simply walk into a number of tasting rooms over one or two days and taste away. I listen intently to what the staff have to say. They talk brix and wind machines while I ask about philosophy in the vineyard and beyond. It’s great fun.

And what I’ve come to realize over the years is that things aren’t that different if I’m driven on a junket or if I come in on my own steam. Staff is knowledgeable. The vineyards impart a feeling of calm and beauty. Those who visit are like explorers, eager to learn more about these lands. Now there may be a glass or two out of place and not every grape varietal in the blend is remembered but that imperfection is what makes it even better — and human. And it’s that human element we sometimes forget about when we think of wine country.

So as you visit some wineries close to you this summer — and you know there are several — think about this: The bottle isn’t the only thing you’ve come to see.

Editor-in-chief

Aldo Parise editor@tidingsmag.com Associate Editor

Rosemary Mantini rmantini@tidingsmag.com Contributing Editors

Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart Contributing food Editor

Nancy Johnson Columnists

Tony Aspler, Peter Rockwell, Tom de Larzac, Joanne Will, Sheila Swerling-Puritt, Lisa Hoekstra, Crystal Luxmore Contributors

Sean Wood, Harry Hertscheg, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Rick VanSickle, Crystal Luxmore, Merle Rosenstein, Tim Pawsey, Michael Pinkus, Duncan Holmes Tasters

Tony Aspler, Rick VanSickle, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Jonathan Smithe, Ron Liteplo and Gurvinder Bhatia COPY DESK

Lee Springer, Kathy Sinclair Creative by Paris Associates Art Direction

Aldo Parise Production

ww+Labs, cmyk design, studio karibü Illustrations & Photography

Matt Daley, Francesco Gallé, Push/Stop Studio, august photography, Westen Photo Studio Cover Design

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Audited by

8 // July/August 2013

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Now inth our 40 year circ@tidingsmag.com

Regarding Tod Stewart’s “Dos Copas”, A really very beautifully written article.

Loved the humour and emotion that flows from well-chosen words and authentically representing the food culture. Mr Stewart truly captured the Spanish zest for conviviality among friends, neighbours and family — as well as the traditional pride in treating travellers well no matter what the host’s station in life/means.

Accounts

Dolores Smith, email

Kylix Media CFO

Lucy Rodrigues Circulation

Marilyn Barter accounts@tidingsmag.com Advertising Representation Dovetail Communications

Senior Account Executive Gillian Thomas: gthomas@dvtail.com 9 05-886-6641 ext 308 www.quenchbytidings.com

... Mr Stewart truly captured the Spanish zest for conviviality among friends, neighbours and family ...

Tim Pawsey’s “Cinco de Mayo” salmon recipe really surprised me. I had never associated salmon with Mexico. Despite that, I did prepare it. All I can say is “Ole!” The combination of citrus and cilantro took me back to Mexico’s sunny beaches.

Paulette Johns, Toronto

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Tidings, Canada’s Food & Wine Magazine, a registered trademark of Kylix Media, is published 8 times a year: (February/March, April, May/June, July/August, September, October, November, December/January).

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I was very intrigued to read about Ontario’s South Coast wine region (by Michael Pinkus). I’ve visited the area many times and have noticed vines sprouting up all over the place. I hope the area will find success in winemaking after losing its tobacco-growing industry.

R. Lamb, Edmonton

Confession: Until recently, I hadn’t realized that “cider” could mean anything other than good old (non-alcoholic) apple cider.

Ellen Lougean, email

Gilles Bois’ “CIVL Law” left me feeling very encouraged. The fact that there’s interest in creating incubators for winemakers is a win for all involved.

David Spencer, email

Material chosen for publication may be edited for clarity and fit. Please e-mail your comments and questions to editor@tidingsmag.com.

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\\ 11

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CORN ON THE COB TOPPING TWISTERS

It seems that most cooks not only strive to use the highest-quality ingredients, but also are particular about the equipment that they use when cooking.

When asked which is the most important, the answer inevitably is their knife.

Recently, I have been on a bit of a knife kick. I have been scouring the web to find out which one would be right for me. What I found is that there are way more options than I could have imagined.

What have I learned during all my research? Well, two things really: I am a fan of Japanese knives (mainly the shape and the steel), and that no matter the knife, the sharper the better.

There is nothing fancy about the knife I use. I like the way it feels, and it works well for me, but for years I didn’t realize that my knife was not as sharp as it could be. I have a honing spit I thought was actually for sharpening, which is not really the case (even though it does help to keep a knife sharp, it’s primarily for straightening the blade).

After a few more years I was told about a professional knife sharpener, and I have not turned back since. My knives are much sharper than ever before.

Why is this important, though? A sharp knife allows you to use more even movements with much less force or pressing harder than necessary. This reduces the chance of the blade slipping or losing control. It is also much easier to cut food into smaller pieces, which speeds up — and allows for more consistent — cooking time.

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1 lb fresh vine-ripened tomatoes, rough chop 1 medium cucumber, seeded and diced 1 shallot, diced 1/2 red bell pepper, diced 1 garlic clove, fine chop 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil (good quality) + 1 tbsp for garnish 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar (sherry vinegar for a milder flavour) 1 tsp salt and pepper (each) 1 tbsp fresh chives or parsley, fine chop for garnish

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\\ 13 13-05-14 1:17 PM

garlic city\\

We know garlic is powerful: as a culinary ingredient, and for keeping vampires and unwanted suitors away. Scientists say the same chemical that gives garlic its flavour also kills germs.

So what happens when the potency of garlic and the power of youth combine?

Initiated by the youth group We Are Many (WAM) in 2010, the Saskatoon Garlic Self-Sufficiency Project aims to get the city growing what’s used locally (98 per cent is currently imported).

Backyards, front lawns, school plots and community gardens have been volunteered. WAM provides growing advice and distributes seed.

“Each year people who plant have the choice, and they usually do give some garlic back to WAM so that we can plant it at other people’s homes,” says Melissa Gan, one of the project coordinators. “We also recommend they keep some to plant for next year to become self-sufficient.”

Planting happens just before the fall frost. The single cloves remain in the ground through the winter and come to life in spring. “That gives you a head start, so you get a bigger bulb,” says Gan. “Around July, because we grow a hardneck variety, there’s a garlic scape — a big green stem that comes out of the top, which people pick and eat. And then in late August the bulbs are usually mature enough to harvest. It’s almost a year process, but you get a lot out of what you put in. It’s not like growing tomatoes, which is really delicate work; you put garlic in the ground, dig up some weeds and then pull it out a year later.”

WAM distributes bulbs to new growers. “When people contact us, we send out a form and they fill in how much they want to plant, how big their plot is, and whether they need help with weeding or preparing the soil. We have quite a few grants, so we can provide the garlic for free. We’ve also been present at Seedy Saturday for the last couple of years and hand it out, to help spread it around,” says Gan.

14 // July/August 2013

umami

by joanne will

Motivation for the project comes from an interest in reducing the carbon footprint — and good taste. “Most of the garlic at supermarkets comes from China, which is a far distance to travel, and it’s really labour-intensive because there it’s all monoculture-grown — which is unhealthy for the soil and for the garlic. It’s sold dirt cheap in our supermarkets, which means the labourers over there are not being paid very well, so it’s pretty unethical,” says Gan. So does the homegrown garlic taste better? “It’s hard not to be subjective, but yes,” says Gan. “We got some information from the Horticulture Club on campus and found out that a lot of the garlic sold in supermarkets is treated, so that it’s stunted in that it won’t grow if you were to plant it yourself. That affects the overall quality. The garlic we grow is really pungent. It has robust flavour and body, so you don’t need much. You can get a lot more use out of it.”

Chefs such as Christie Peters, owner of acclaimed Saskatoon restaurant The Hollows, can also vouch for homegrown garlic.

“They grow beautiful garlic,” says Peters. “We’re proud to use it, and treat it with the utmost respect. When we mince it we try not to lose any of the pungent, sticky oils. We dice it like you would a shallot, cutting each peeled clove vertically then horizontally, then mince it into a fluffy fine dice, instead of beating it into the cutting board with a knife over and over, which releases the oils. We save the butt end to flavour our stock. We also roast the bulbs whole and extract each caramelized clove to blend into our Sask chickpea hummus.”

Gan says that before storing homegrown garlic, it must be dried. “We had an emergency garlic-hanging party once in a member’s garage. We hung a big wire and dried a lot of garlic in one space. That was a really pungent smell, but once it’s dried it lasts throughout the winter — if you can keep yourself from eating it all.”

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lazy mixologist

refreshing\\

My garden consists of a few container pots on my deck, filled with hard-to-kill flowers, mint — and, if I’m feeling adventurous — arugula. My thumb is far from green, but I work the homegrown angle into dishes for guests whenever possible, walking downstairs with freshly picked mint sprigs to throw into salads, or cocktails, a few minutes after they arrive. A regular Martha Stewart, right?

No matter how minimal, it feels pretty awesome to use garden or locally grown fruit and veg in a cocktail — and now is the time to do it.

Adrian Stein, a mixologist at Mistura Restaurant, who spent most of his career in Italian restaurants, gets really creative with garden-fresh ingredients. He crafted “Pie in the Sky,” a savoury cocktail made with tomato water and pizza-infused vodka, rimmed with parmesan and topped with fresh tomato and oregano, for a recent cocktail competition. The clear tipple tasted, rather impressively, like a cheese pizza.

But his favourite garden ingredient is the humble English cucumber. “It’s the best. It brings such a fresh component to any drink. Plus it’s simple, inexpensive and locally grown,” he says.

He likes the English variety because it’s the sweetest and juiciest.

“Its sweetness works really well with melon or elderflower, and goes great with all white spirits.”

Stein says the easiest way to use cucumber is to peel it until the seeds are showing, then dice and muddle. For a party, consider making a bigger yield of cucumber juice ahead of time instead: take peeled cucumber, soak it in cold water for two hours and then run through a centrifugal juicer.

A no-fail addition to any cucumber-based cocktail is elderflower, says Stein. “St Germain’s elderflower liqueur is known as ‘bartender’s ketchup,’ because you can put it in anything as long as you don’t use too much of it.” He told me about an award-winning cocktail he made using the liqueur, cucumber, gin, blueberries and sage flowers.

+ Visit quenchbytidings.com/search-mixed/ for more drink recipes

by crystal luxmore

That sounded like a good place to start for this lazy mixologist: I cut out the sage flowers (because who grows those anyway?) and substituted arugula, to add a peppery bite to the sweet, floral drink. I also craved more bitter citrus, so I squeezed in a thin slice of grapefruit and topped it with grapefruit-flavoured soda water.

The drink has a wet, refreshing cucumber aroma and flavour from start to finish. Gin’s prickly juniper notes complemented the sweet floral flavours of elderflower, while the grapefruit soda and juice added bitterness and carbonation to lift cucumber’s fleshier, almost fatty, mouthfeel. The arugula added a peppery aroma but wasn’t as evident in the flavour, so I put a teeny pinch of white pepper on top for more snap — I only advise this if, like me, you really love pepper.

The verdict? Cucumber makes a refreshing backbone for any garden cocktail — and no one needs to know you didn’t grow it yourself.

wet & wild

Muddle 2 oz diced cucumber and 2 oz blueberries.

Add 20 baby arugula leaves; muddle gently.

Add 1/2 oz St Germain elderflower liqueur.

Add 1 1/2 oz Bombay Sapphire gin.

Squeeze in juice of one thin slice grapefruit.

Top with grapefruit-flavoured soda water.

quenchbytidings.com

\\ 17

bon vivant tidal wave and the resistance\\ by peter rockwell

18 // July/August 2013

Arguably, the hottest drop in town is the summer-in-a-bottle Nova 7 by Benjamin Bridge. A mix of Muscat and subtle effervescence, its yearly release has become a Beaujolais Nouveau event. While bigger provinces may see a limited release, Nova Scotians keep the vast majority of it for themselves.

Many of my friends are still resistant to trying Canadian wine. Why do you think that is?

Was it rocker Bryan Adams who said something like, “Canadians need to be told by someone else that what they make is good before they’ll believe it?” Even if he didn’t, it’s still a great quote that more than covers the attitude of many Canucks towards Canadian wines.

I’m betting the majority of my fellow countrymen haven’t tried a real Canadian wine, basing their opinion of the whole industry after a bottle of the lowest common denominator. After all, we still produce some pretty crappy wine in this country, and the general public has a tendency to gravitate to the very cheap and cheerful when stepping outside of their comfort zone.

I still have friends who believe that what they drank from a brown paper bag at a university frat party was port.

They’re not alone.

Distribution is one problem. While vinophiles in the primary production regions of Ontario, BC and Nova Scotia dig their own output, the availability of those provinces’ finer wines across the country is limited, mostly because nearly every bottle is drunk within their own borders.

Not all of course, and as the international status of Canadian wine grows, so does the homegrown acceptance that our grapes produce great wine.

So here’s the deal: when all you wine-hip folks out there get asked to recommend something good to fill a friend’s glass, unleash your favourite Canadian wine. Tweet it, Facebook it and blog the heck out of it. Stop asking why your friends aren’t drinking our wine, and help be the reason why they do.

+ Ask your questions at bonvivant@tidingsmag.com

Illustration: Matt Daley/Shinypliers.com

I’m heading to Nova Scotia this summer. I hear there are some interesting wines made there. Any suggestions?

As a proud Nova Scotian, there’s a special place on my palate for its liquid output. As a middle-aged man, I can say I was there at the beginning when the Domaine de Grand Pré winery outside the town of Wolfville (about 45 minutes from Halifax) put a cork in its first bottle in the early 1980s.

Back then the thought of Canada’s Ocean Playground making a drinkable wine seemed as likely as George Clooney saying “I’d like to thank the Academy.” Well, we all know how that turned out, and, much like George’s stint on The Facts of Life, the uneven buzz around Nova Scotia’s early vintages is, for the most part, long forgotten.

In the last five years alone, the local wine industry has evolved to the point where it can be mentioned in the same breath as Ontario and British Columbia without eliciting a smirk.

New wineries, young, innovative winemakers and juice that is modern, yet unique to the region, have all deliciously conspired to make Nova Scotia a major player on the Canadian wine scene.

Though national distribution is nearly non-existent, you’ll have plenty of opportunities to buy when you visit, either through the province’s liquor corporation outlets, private shops in Halifax, farmers’ markets or from the wineries themselves.

The evolution of red wine has progressed very nicely, thank you, but white is really where it’s at in Nova Scotia. Look for one of the 10 wineries producing aromatic whites under the Tidal Bay label.

Conceived as an appellation-style wine, each producer has to meet certain production standards and get approved by an independent tasting panel (featuring yours truly), before it gets to use the name.

Glowing comparisons to Champagne (thanks to the climate) have provided local sparkling wines with so many national headlines that it’s to the point where just about every winery is making one or more. Everything from classic traditional-method varieties to fruit-infused versions are available.

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hybrid Noble rot, knobby vine stumps, infected wine barrels and spent grape skins — an emerging beer style is turning a vintner’s waste into brewer’s gold. by Crystal Luxmore Iain McOustra’s “ah-ha” moment happened over a few glasses of Riesling when he was touring the Beamsville Bench appellation about seven years ago. “The winemakers I met there had such reverence for their ingredients and that’s something that I was drawn to,” says McOustra. “After I got to know some of the winemakers, I just thought it would be a good idea to use some of their ingredients in my beers.”

McOustra, a brewer at Toronto’s Amsterdam Brewing Company, is a pioneer in an emerging beer style in Canada, beer/wine hybrids, or as I like to call them — vinales.

Crossovers in beer and wine aren’t new. Archeologists have unearthed evidence of ancient beverages that incorporated grains, grapes and honey. In the mid-1700s the English invented vinous barley wines in part because supplies dried up during wars with the French. Sparkling ales often use champagne yeasts and techniques.

Today’s modern day vinale movement was inspired by looking to these ancient ales. The beer style first got noticed in 1999, when Delaware brewery, Dogfish Head, released Midas Touch, an ale brewed with Muscat grapes, barley, saffron and honey.

The beer was based on a recipe created by the brewery’s founder Sam Calagione and archeologist Dr. Patrick McGovern, after investigating trace ingredients found on crumbling, 2,700-yearold drinking vessels from King Midas’s tomb. Today, the beer is widely available in the US as one of Dogfish’s year-round ales.

Here in Canada, brewers and wineries are just beginning to explore vinales. And rather than chucking in every wine ingredient they can find, or looking back to the ancients for inspiration, these oenophile beer makers are partnering with nearby appellations and tapping into ascending wine trends to create vinales with deliberate restraint, subtlety and elegance.

McOustra started out simply — aging different styles of beers in wine barrels from biodynamic vineyards in the Niagara region.

He favours barrels with traces of funky, wild bacteria that impart horsey, puckering sour notes coveted in wild beers. McOustra wants the barrels fresh, so when Ross Wise — who is now an independent consultant and the winemaker at Keint-he Winery

20 // July/August 2013

and Vineyards in Prince Edward County — sources a spent wine barrel that fits the bill, he gives McOustra a call.

“When Iain approached me about collaborating, I was really keen,” says 34-year-old Wise. “In winemaking, we only get to make one product once a year, but brewing is like coming up with a recipe; you just try it and just see how it goes.”

“I pick up the barrel that day and have a beer ready to put right in,” says McOustra. “It’s pretty interesting because there’s going to be a lot of different wild yeasts and bacteria in the lees,” says McOustra.

His philosophy? “Brew the beer for the barrel.”

“Sometimes I’ll brew a beer a little sweeter knowing that the lees and the wild yeast will dry it out. But sometimes you want the drying effect — I brewed a rye peppercorn saison for a Cab Franc barrel and it was meant to be bone dry.”

These days McOustra’s experimenting goes way beyond barrel aging. Ontario vintners are sending him half-fermented grape juice, lees harvested from the barrels, oak chips and grape skins. The 32-year-old brewer uses them to create hybrids like Rip and Run, a boozy, full-bodied porter with swirling notes of cherries and prune, hints of tobacco and bacon with a subtle tannic finish thanks to Coyote Run Pinot Noir grape skins thrown in for a few minutes near the end of the beer’s boil. This month, the brewery will release bottles of Domestic Disturbance, in collaboration with Steam Whistle brewer, Erica Graholm. For a Belgian ale fermented with 100 per cent Brettanonymces yeast, the funky flavours are subtle; aromas of ripe, juicy melon and pineapple, lemon rind and pepper dominate. The wine skins, which were added in the secondary fermenter for just three weeks, make their appearance in the full mouthfeel and silky vanilla finish.

Most brewmasters don’t get this much freedom to play around, but as the head of Amsterdam’s Brewery’s Adventure Series of beers McOustra has the enviable job of experimenting on one batch of beer after another. He spends most days at Amsterdam’s new brewpub, which opened at Queen’s Quay, on Toronto’s waterfront this June (they’ve usually got a vinale on tap).

Barrel aging in wine casks is a growing trend in British Columbia, Ontario and Quebec. In BC, Driftwood Brewery uses wine casks repeatedly to condition styles as diverse as an Oude Bruin to a Weissbier. Kelowna’s Tree Brewing is partnering with local winery Quails’ Gate, using its clean, seven-year-old Foch barrels to age a variety of its beers twice every season. The next vintage in its Redwood Wine Barrel-Aged Ale series will be released for the Okanagan Wine Festival in October. In Ontario, Toronto’s Bellwoods Brewery usually has a few barrel-aged versions on tap or for sale, and this year they’re going into full-on hybrid territory. “We’re working with Paul Pender from Tawse at this year’s fall harvest,” says Mike Clarke, co-owner and co-brewer.

“We’ll most likely be using Gewürztraminer and Merlot musts in two separate beers. We’re also planning to propagate wild yeasts from certain barrels at Tawse to play around with mixed fermentations.” Look for these at the brewery near the end of this year.

Like Amsterdam, most of the vinales coming out remain firmly in the beer category. The vintages have more body and mouthfeel than anything else — thick, milkshake-like heads and fuller, more tannic or silky bodies — while the wine flavours remain in the background, revealing themselves in layers as the beer opens up.

Brewers often look for complementary flavours when choosing wines and beer styles to meld together. For example, Merlot’s tannins and notes of black cherry and cigar tobacco enrich the chocolate and coffee aromas exemplified in stouts and porters.

But last year, one brewer hit on the idea of brewing a pure beer that tastes like a wine.

In Toronto’s Mill Street Brewery’s summer mix-pack are bottles of its second batch of Don Valley Bench — a beer that Peter Bodnar-Rod, sales director at 13th Street Winery and industry liaison at the International Sommelier Guild, challenged the brewery to design for the Cool Climate Chardonnay Festival held in Niagara every July.

Iain McOustra

Trou de Diable founders Isaac Tremblay and André Trudel

When a brewery hits on a distinctive style of wine and pairs it with the right style of beer, the results will woo beer and wine lovers alike. This is the case with Le Trou de Diable’s award-winning La Dulcis Succubus, a rare and very popular sour saison released a few times each year. The Shawinigan, Quebec brewery came up with the vinale after it scored a steady supply of Sauternes barrels from a top California producer. The white wine is made with grapes that have been infected by noble rot, a fungus that shrivels them, concentrating their sweetness and creating honey, nutty and tropical fruit notes.

La Dulcis is put straight into the freshly used barrels, with traces of noble rot and lees, and aged for six to eight months. The bubbly saison smells like a heady pear cider with ripe apricot notes, snappy pepper and juniper, a subtle blue-cheese funk and a long, dry orange peel finish. The match of a snappy, dry saison with a sweet but wild white wine is a perfect marriage.

Brewmaster Joel Manning decided not to incorporate any Chardonnay ingredients. “We are brewers, so we wanted to work with traditional beer ingredients,” he explains. Instead he’d mimic the crisp, clean, fruit-focused flavours of a cool climate Chardonnay by altering brewing techniques.

He turned to 30-year-old brewer, Bridgid Young, for help because of her five-year stint working back-to-back vintages as a winemaker in Niagara and New Zealand.

The pair decided on wheat and very pale malts for a biscuity flavour and creamy body, and left a portion of the wet grain out to “sour,” dropping its pH closer to that of wine and encouraging a vibrant acidity. “We fermented it on a Burton Ale Yeast because it brings attributes of minerality, and esters of pears and apples, which are very common in cold-climate Chardonnays, and added some French oak,” says Young.

Young was understandably nervous to pour pints for a room full of her ex-colleagues — sommeliers and winemakers who had been drinking nothing but Chardonnay for three days.

“The beer somehow managed to find the freshness of a Chardonnay, its creaminess and mid-weight, with yeasty tones clearly present,” says Bodnar-Rod. Of all the beers Mill Street brought, the kegs of Don Valley Bench were drained first. “The idea was a little bit crazy, and maybe not even realistic,” he says, “but somehow they managed to do it.” •

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Happy birthday, Canada. by michael pinkus

And I can think of no better way to celebrate, be it a birthday, anniversary, graduation, special occasion, weekend or Wednesday, then with a bottle of bubbles. The best part is that there are a lot of homegrown bubbles across this nation, literally from coast to coast: Nova Scotia to British Columbia — all making delicious sparkling wine for your any-occasion. It is probably one of the fastest growing wine styles across the country.

And in some cases, wineries are opening specifically to make sparkling.

“Demand for sparkling wine is growing,” explains Peter Bodnar Rod of 13th Street Winery. “We believe we have the ideal conditions for world class bubbles,” says Michelle Bosc of Château des Charmes in Ontario, and she’s not alone.

Angelo Pavan of Cave Spring digs a little deeper: “Given our cool climate and the swings in our growing seasons (as in Burgundy) there are a few varieties that grow consistently well and some wine styles that do well regardless of vintage variations.

Sparkling Chardonnay is one of them.”

22 // July/August 2013

Out West, Roger Wong, winemaker for Gray Monk, says that, “sparkling wines are a natural fit for the Okanagan Valley, as our vineyards are on the same latitude as the Champagne region of France.” “[The] Okanagan Valley, specifically cooler vineyard sites, is the model place to grow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that have beautiful natural acidity and flavours that are ideal for crafting a classic style of traditional method sparkling wine,” explains Whitney Law of Okanagan Crush Pad. According to Jason James of Sumac Ridge, maker of the amazing Steller’s Jay line of sparkling wines, the only negative of BC with sparkling is, “few of the grapes are grown on really heavy/ chalky soils, which really helps to give the wines that minerality.”

Something Michele Bosc says is not a problem in Ontario, “Our grapes ripen beautifully but still retain the necessary acidity, all the calcium in the soil/escarpment provides the minerality in the finished wine.”

Jeff Aubry, President over at Coyote’s Run, gave three answers as to why he got into the sparkling game: “Why the hell not? Bubbles are cool. Because it is soooo much fun to produce sparkling wines [and] our climate is ideally suited — great ripeness, but also great acidity — perfect for making top quality bubbles.” I think that right across this country winemakers would say he’s right on all counts.

Ontario

Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catharine Brut ($29.95) Good biscuit notes with lovely mineral nuances on the palate, there’s also lovely lemony citrus notes with green apple on the finish — but always with the biscuit and citrus.

Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catharine Rosé ($29.95) Nose of apple and strawberry; the strawberry continues on the palate with green apple acidity and a hint of minerality. There’s also a lovely lemon-strawberry finish.

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Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Blanc de Blanc Carte Blanche 2007 ($45) This 54-months (4 1/2 years) traditional method bubbly is made entirely of Chardonnay; of which 20% was barrel fermented. Lovely biscuity notes along with lemon zest, and bruised apple. Subtle and delicious, almost creamy smooth on the palate showing elements of caramel, toffee and almond biscotti. Real nice complexity here without going over-the-top.

a lovely dryness on the finish from great acidity and not too much sugar in the dosage; very Champagne-esque without the Champagne price tag.

Chateau des Charmes Estate Bottled Brut ($23) The nose is apple and lemon with a touch of yeasty-breadiness (but just a touch), that fruit is right in your face and very welcome. It follows onto the palate with crisp apple, lemon and a nice biscotti-like flavouring — very fresh with good acidity.

drinking and tasty and might convert those who are not into bubbles … yet.

Huff Estates Cuvée Janine Sparkling Rosé 2010 ($29.95) Pinot Noir aged 2 years on lees; the nose here has plenty of black cherry and raspberry notes. The palate, while very good, offers some odd twists to sparkling: cherry and earthy notes with a citrus bite.

Approachable, red berries abound, almost sweet, but then there are some tannins that sweep in and dry out the finish.

Atypical but very sippable and enjoyable.

Huff Estates Cuvée Peter F. Huff 2008 ($39.95) Yeasty-biscuity-toasty-baked apple smells and flavours with a lovely caramel apple linger on the finish. 2 years on lees and in limited production. Very tasty.

13th Street Grand Cuvée 2007 ($59.95)

L’Acadie Vineyards’ Bruce Ewert

Coyote’s Run Sparkling Pinot Noir Rosé 2009 ($29.95)

Chateau des Charmes Methode Taditionelle Rosé 2009 ($28.95)

Traditional method with 2 1/2 years on lees, this is the inaugural production from CR and they made only 1000 bottles. The nose is raspberry, strawberry and apple aroma-ed, while in the mouth all 3 show up right to the mid-palate then it’s green apple and rhubarb to the finish. Definitely drier than the nose lets on, and the initial fruitiness seems to amalgamate into a nice POM juice flavour before the finish kicks in.

3 years on lees in the bottle. Nose of strawberry-rhubarb aromas followed by cherry-lemonade and a cookie dough-ish smell. The palate shows good complexity if you’re willing to look for it, otherwise it can seem simplistic with red fruits: strawberry, Bing cherry with other red fruits and berries. There’s also a fresh bread doughiness and nice biting acidity — especially on the first sip, which then lingers on the finish.

Cave Spring Blanc de Blancs ($29.95) This is a 100% Chardonnay-based bubbly.

The nose is bready, biscuit, toasty and yeasty, and for you sparkling wine lovers that should mean quite a lot. The palate improves on the nose with mineral toastiness, apple and pear nuances and a long, lovely, bread crust finish — plus it has

Peller Estates NV Ice Cuvee Rosé ($34.95) Sweetness of cherry and red berries rise to the nasal occasion — you can taste the Icewine dosage on the fruity pleasant finish — almost juicy in nature with lengthy red fruit in the form of cherry and strawberry on the finish. This is easy

100% Pinot Noir with vanilla-buttered bread on the nose followed by caramel apple, pear, toasted oats, hazelnuts and brioche — a nice complexity of flavours and sexy aromas.

Flat Rock Riddled 2008 ($25) 71% Chardonnay and 29% Pinot Noir, full of citrus, sweet apple, a touch yeasty but this one adds more sweetness than yeastiness though somehow finds its way to a bitterish (pleasantly so) finish with bread crust and element of complexity.

Calamus Starstruck 2011 ($26.95) Citrusy and a touch smoky with peach-raspberry on the nose — pleasant with strawberry pith on the palate along with a cocktail-hour mix of apple and peach.

Flat Rock Sparkling Brut 2007 ($35.20) 67% Pinot Noir and 33% Chardonnay, this sparkling kicks in with buckwheat honey then follows with rusty/fermented apple, hints of mango and yeasty-crusty bread.

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Hillebrand Trius Brut ($24.95) Pretty floral, mineral and apple notes adding to the yeastiness and used as a seasoning, not as the main attraction.

Pleasant all-around, all-purpose bubble and not too much dough.

Gray Monk Odyssey Rosé Brut 2009 ($19.99) Strawberry, rhubarb and cherry with redcurrant and a hint of bitterness that keeps it honest and from becoming a sweet, red fruit mess.

Dave Carson at see ya later ranch

Magnotta Classic Vidal 2010 ($8.95)

Sperling Vineyard Sparkling Brut 2008 ($40)

Slightly sweet and easy drinking — apricot, green apple and melon with a clean finish and balancing acidity; shows that Vidal is not just for Icewine.

Mineral and green apple are the hallmarks here, along with bread crust. Toasted apple seeds on the palate with a biscuity note, dry finish with good acidity that seems to bite back; fresh and crisp finish that hangs around on the cheeks.

Inniskillin Sparkling Icewine Vidal 2011 ($79.95/375 ml) Apple, pear, peach, and maple on the nose — nice mousse, super sweet honeyed apricots and pears with well-balanced acidity to keep it from getting syrupy. Fresh and lovely dessert wine with the addition of fizz.

British Columbia

Okanagan Crush Pad Haywire “The Bub” 2011 ($24.90)

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir blend with mineral, apple, lemon drop; heady bubbles with a peach stone finish and touch of sweet.

Sumac Ridge Steller’s Jay Brut 2007 ($25) Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and a touch of Pinot Blanc. Nice toasty nose with almond and hazelnut notes, lots of pleasant fruit on the palate with a good toastiness to it; yeasty, brioche and biscuits sit pleasantly on the tongue. A little creaminess in the mouth reminiscent of lemon meringue.

Long, toasty hazelnut finish. This bottle has some real depth to it.

24 // July/August 2013

Château des charmes’ Paul and Paul Andre Bosc

Gray Monk Odyssey Celebration Edition Traditional Brut 2009 ($30) Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.

This one should be and probably is much better than what I tasted. There was a slight hint of corkiness to it but if you dug deeper you could taste a crisp elegance to this wine with delightfully fresh apple skin and great toastiness — not all bottles will be corked so this is well worth trying again.

See Ya Later Ranch Syl Brut (23.09) Crisp apple and Bartlett pear, toasted almonds, apple pie and spice with hints of a floral nose along with cornhusk aromas.

There’s some apparent sweetness here but it ends nice and dry — very refreshing.

bubble — but it’s all about the name here — this one doesn’t try to be more than it is. Perfect for mimosas and other things you want to bubble on a Sunday morning.

Adds apple, pear and tropical highlights to whatever you mix with it, or you can even have it on its own as an aperitif.

What better way to go local?

Summer in the Sensory Garden

Jay Johnston from flat rock

Jackson-Triggs Entourage Grand Reserve Brut 2008 ($22.95) 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay.

Playfully sweet and sour with apple core, yeast and toasted lemon zest. Good finish.

Sumac Ridge Steller’s Jay Sparkling Gewürztraminer ($25)

Vineland Cuvée Clos Brut 2008 ($19.95) Almondine and buttery croissant lead the charge to the olfactories along with crusty bread aromas. Pineapple-mango smoothie without the sweetness on the palate — quite fruit driven with tropical-ness. Quite complex for a Charmat-made bubble.

Nova Scotia

Odd but in a playful way — you don’t expect Gewürztraminer in bubbly form — dry, floral, soapy, lychee and mandarin orange. Retains the Gewürz character.

L’Acadie Vineyard Vintage Cuvée 2010 ($25.99)

Sumac Ridge Steller’s Jay Pinnacle 2005 ($35.10)

Blomidon Cuvée L’Acadie Brut ($29.99)

This 100% Pinot Noir is very toasty, with a biscuit and mineral character, but don’t discount the almonds and hazelnuts that add a pleasant spin to the aromas.

Open Sociable Sparkling 2011 ($13.95) Labelled as a “Chardonnay Blend” this seems to be a simple and refreshing

- Wines by the Glass - Artisan Cheeses - Local Charcuterie - Picnic Lunches - Wine Gelato - Grilled Pizzas -

Creamy lemon zest and pith with hints of vanilla-brioche.

McIntosh apple, hazelnut and praline sweetness — you’ll also find pear on the long finish and buttered croissant in the middle.

L’Acadie Vineyard Prestige Brut 2007 ($39.99) Pure toasty and nuttiness with McIntosh apple and lemon zest appeal. 4 to 5 years on lees seems to favour the toastiness instead of fruit. •

15608 Niagara Parkway Niagara-on-the-Lake 905-468-WINE (9463) @reifwinery facebook.com/ReifEstateWinery

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Other

Let me get this out of the way right now: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are the signature varietals of Prince Edward County.

The symbiotic relationship between these two varietals and the limestone soil is absolute. by evan saviolidis

Brothers Recently, while tasting through a multitude of top-end PEC Pinot Noirs and Chardonnay, I started to hypothesize on which other grapes and/or styles produced in the county are next in line. Clearly, the answer can be found by spending a few days near Belleville.

So, a list of wineries was put together and two rules were enacted.

The first was no table wines from Pinot Noir or Chardonnay.

The second, all wines had to be made from 100 per cent county fruit. This latter criterion was to ensure authenticity, since many wineries, due to their size, import grapes from Niagara and either blend them with PEC fruit and/or produce Niagara-only bottlings. Now, don’t get me wrong, a winery has every right to turn a profit, but to properly evaluate, it had to be 100 per cent local. If blended, the wines generally carry the generic “Ontario” appellation and not the “Prince Edward County” designation.

So, after four days of swirling, sipping and spitting, my vote for top two varietals were Cabernet Franc and Riesling. Franc, with its natural affinity to cooler climates, tends to produce the Loire model in the county. It is also a favourite of Dan Sullivan, owner/ winemaker of Rosehall Run. “Typically, I have found Cab Franc to be the most successful on a consistent basis. It responds well to good vineyard management and if cropped at levels matched to the vigour and ripening potential of the site, it can do reasonably well. I think the best sites for Franc are those that are warmer, such as south slopes. It also really benefits from leaf pulling in the fruiting zone to burn off some of the vegetal/bell pepper character that is prevalent in under-ripe fruit,” says Sullivan.

As for Riesling, there are two different styles that dominate.

In the warmest areas, it produces ripe, concentrated offerings with great balance between acidity and residual sugar. The oth-

26 // July/August 2013

er, from cooler zones, tends to produce high acid, leaner styles.

The cause of this is the foliage dropping early in the autumn, effectively shutting down the growing cycle and leaving PHs well over 10. To temper the sharpness, three options come into play: de-acidification, leaving higher residual sugars or blending with riper Niagara fruit.

Of course, I would be remiss in mentioning the ever-expanding sparkling wine production in PEC. “Sparkling is a perfect fit for the county,” says Paul Battilana, winemaker at Casa Dea Estate. A similar sentiment was echoed by Jonas Newman, owner of Hinterland Wine Company, PEC’s only 100 per cent sparkling wine house, which produces three different bubblies, using three different methods. According to Jonas, “if you take a cross-section of all the commitments to quality in the county, sparkling is the best product.”

Et Cetera

Almost every vigneron that I talked to also had high praise for Pinot Gris and Gamay Noir. Theoretically, these two make perfect sense for PEC, but to date, the majority of what has been bottled is generally good at best.

As stickies go, thankfully, very little is made. Early on, common sense prevailed amongst the producers that the county’s limestone is a privileged one for table wines and that there were already too many high-quality Icewines and late harvests from elsewhere in Ontario.

All things being equal, it is also possible to find the occasional surprise varietal, such as Syrah, Merlot or Gewürztraminer, which bodes well for diversity — as well as our palates.

r

90 Karlo Estates Lake On The Mountain Riesling 2010 ($22)

88 Huff Estates South Bay Vineyards Merlot 2010 ($29.95)

Sourced from a small vineyard in eastern PEC, this wine was fermented (and aged) in old oak, using natural yeasts. This, combined with the warm growing conditions of 2010, has produced a substantial Riesling with loads of peach, lime cordial, honey, and minerals. There is only a dash of residual but the ripeness might actually trick many into thinking that it is sweeter than it actually is.

This wine is only made in the best years; the last vintage was 2007.

Sourced from the South Bay vineyard, which is the warmest growing zone in PEC, it reveals a bouquet of plum, cherry, toast, spice, herbs and a slight medicinal edge. There is very good length as well as a smooth texture. Drink now with duck magret or charcuterie.

90 Huff Estates Cuvée Peter F. Huff Sparkling 2007 ($39.95) From a hot year comes 100% Chardonnay bubbly, which spent 60 months on the lees. It is an aromatically overt wine with loads of cream, brioche, apple and spice, with a slight oxidative quality weaving through. There is excellent length and it is best suited with cream based dishes or halibut topped with a beurre blanc sauce.

87 Casa-Dea Estates Riesling 2009 ($16.95) This is an extremely zippy and austere Riesling with mineral, lime and hints of white flower. There is very good length and even though the perception is that of a dry wine due to the elevated acidity, there is some sweetness. Pair with poached pickerel or smoked salmon.

90 Rosehall Run The Swinger Syrah Cuvée County 2010 ($34.95) When owner Dan Sullivan offered to pour me a sample of this wine, I was more than a little bit skeptical due to the majority of lacklustre Syrah grown and vinified in the province. Well, was I ever surprised! Medium-plus body, it is an elegant and concentrated offering exhibiting a huge nose of white pepper, cassis, raspberry and sweet herbs. There is excellent length and supple tannins. Without a doubt this is one of Ontario’s top Syrahs. Drink over the next 4 years.

89 Hinterland Les Etoiles 2009 ($39) Les Etoiles is Hinterland’s top Cuvée. Made via the traditional method, it spent close to 3 years on its yeast cells, imbuing the wine with a yeasty/toasty quality that flows between the apple, citrus and cherry. The palate displays a creamy personality and a delightful finish.

89 Rosehall Run Cabernet Franc Cuvée County 2010 ($24.95) Smoky tobacco, cassis, raspberry, cocoa and a slight grilled meat element combine on a medium body frame. The tannins are moderate and there is just a touch of sharp acid on the finale.

All and all, this is a food friendly and delicious Franc to be enjoyed over the next 5 years.

richard Karlo

87 Casa-Dea Estates Dea’s Cuvée 2011 ($18.95) Made via the Charmat method, this bubbly, a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, serves up peach, lemon and apple qualities. The mousse is appealing and there is just a hint of sweetness on the finish to give balance.

89 Norman Hardie County Cabernet Franc 2011 ($25)

87 Lacey Estates Gewürztraminer Reserve 2011 ($25)

Here you will find a mélange of plum, date, raspberry, cherry, barbecue spice and cocoa on the nose and herbal elements on the palate. Mid weight, fresh in acid, medium in tannin and long on the finish, this is a very pretty wine indeed. (ES)

This Gewürz is a perfumed offering, full of telltale aromas of peach, flowers, honey, spice and cold cream. There is even that slight grapefruit pith quality on the finish, which meshes with the acidity. Drink with curried chicken.

88 Lacey Estates Riesling 2012 ($25)

86 Sugarbush Vineyards Riesling 2011 ($17)

Bergamot, peach, lime and mineral come together in this wine.

Even though there is close to 30 grams of residual sugar, the perception is that of an off dry wine. There is very good length to round everything out.

Here is an off-dry, easy drinking Riesling with some light hints of botrytis. Notes of peach, apple, lime honey and white flowers are all present. Drink now. •

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wave by sean wood

This story really begins a number of years ago, when members of the Winery Association of Nova Scotia began discussions focused on establishing a clearer identity for the region and its distinctive wines. This led to the establishment of wine standards intended to underpin the authenticity and integrity of the wines carrying the “Wines of Nova Scotia” logo. Though an important first step, much more needed to be done to establish a clear and distinctive regional identity.

Not long afterwards, Peter Gamble, Founding Director of Canada’s Vintners Quality Alliance, and subsequently a highly respected international winery consultant, began working on the development of Benjamin Bridge, then a new winery project in Nova Scotia’s Gaspereau Valley. Armed with a wealth of experience in cool-climate winemaking, Gamble had undertaken an in-depth analysis of the region’s terroir to ascertain what varieties and styles could thrive best in local conditions. He had also tasted a wide range of local wines to familiarize himself with existing styles. At some point, Gamble was drawn into the broader discussions regarding the industry as a whole and it was he who hit upon the idea of creating a high quality, distinctive appellation that would be recognizably and uniquely Nova Scotian. Gamble proposed the concept of a “fresh, crisp, dryish, still white with a bright signature Nova Scotia aromatic component.”

The idea was favourably received at the Winery Association of Nova Scotia vision session held in late 2009.

In 2010, an Appellation Implementation Committee of winemakers was set up with Gamble in the chair. The Committee was charged with finalizing winemaking standards, which were developed over the next several months. A concept document was produced and reviewed by the WANS Board on September 2 of that year, together with specifics such as permitted varietals, bottle type, price range and sample review process.

On November 18, 2010, the WANS Board voted to accept a document entitled “New Appellation White Wine for Nova Scotia — Proposed Standards and Recommendations.” Thus was born the new appellation, which was christened with the evocative designation, “Tidal Bay.”

28 // July/August 2013

Key to the credibility of the appellation was the creation of strict new grape-growing and winemaking standards “on a par with the world’s toughest” and the creation of an independent tasting panel to assess all wines wishing to use the Tidal Bay designation. This five-person panel, consisting of wine journalists, educators, sommeliers and the Wine Category Manager for the Nova Scotia Liquor Corporation, first met in 2011 to assess the initial 2010 vintage. I have the honour to sit on that panel, which recently completed its assessment of the 2012 vintage, the third Tidal Bay vintage released since inception.

peter gamble

Both the wineries and consumers have really rallied behind the project. Production and sales have expanded rapidly. This year, 10 wineries were successful in obtaining the “Tidal Bay” designation. The tasting panel is confident that properly made examples are achieving the stylistic objectives set out, and that the wineries producing these wines truly embody Nova Scotia’s distinctive regional strengths.

Tidal Bay 2012 – Some early releases of the vintage

Benjamin Bridge Tidal Bay 2012 ($22)

Prominent floral aromatic character with grapefruit and overtones of green apple and pear. Fresh green fruit leads on the palate with a trace of lychee. Finishes a touch off-dry, with sweetness adroitly balanced by lively acidity and solid mineral grip. Note: not a finished sample, will likely improve from here.

Domaine de Grand Pré Tidal Bay 2012 ($20) Seductive scents of honeysuckle and ripe peach lead into crisp stone fruit and ripe green apple flavours backed by refreshing acidity, drying mineral grip and a subtle off-dry finish.

Jost Vineyards Tidal Bay 2012 ($20)

Vividly aromatic floral perfume with fresh green apple and hints of exotic tropical fruit yield to lusciously fresh apple, peach and apricot flavours, well-modulated acidity and stony mineral offset by creamy texture with a delicate off-dry finish.

New Grapes Finding a Role in Nova Scotia

Cabernet Foch: The brainchild of Swiss grape breeder, Valentin Blattner, this cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Marechal Foch was planted in Nova Scotia not long after his visit in 2004. Domaine de Grand Pré has now released a couple of vintages from this winter hardy grape that show real promise.

Petite Milo: Another Valentin Blattner cross, this very early ripening pink grape is well suited to maritime climates such as Nova Scotia’s. It offers good potential for making stylish aromatic wines and as a useful component for blending.

Marquette: A cross between two other hybrid grapes developed at the University of Minnesota especially for cooler climates, this grape has been planted elsewhere in Canada, most notably Quebec. Some Nova Scotia winemakers see it as having a future in their Province. Early days yet, though (first plantings were in 2012).

Traminette: Developed in Upper New York State, with one of its parents being Gewürztraminer, this grape offers disease resistance, winter hardiness and good productivity.

Luckett Vineyards uses it as part of the blend in their signature Phone Box White.

Osceola Muscat: A variety developed in Minnesota showing remarkable similarities to vinifera Muscat, without the pungent character associated with New York Muscat.

This one is also used by Luckett Vineyards as a promising blending component.

Jürg and Hanspeter Stutz from Grand pre

Gaspereau Vineyards Tidal Bay 2012 ($22) Emphatic floral and stone fruit aromatics with citrus and green fruit notes showing up on the palate. Stony mineral and archetypal lively Nova Scotia acidity fill out the picture. Deftly balanced and harmonious throughout.

Luckett Vineyards Tidal Bay 2012 ($20)

Elegant floral scents with an array of green fruits on the nose. In the mouth, stone fruit themes are more apparent together with rounded, generous green fruit backed by crisp acidity and focused minerality. Polished and well balanced. •

Chasselas: (Also known as Fendant in the Valais in Switzerland) Domaine de Grand Pré has planted 200 vines on an experimental basis. It is too soon to judge the long-term prospects as yet.

Vinifera varietals gaining ground: Though no longer new to Nova Scotia, most local growers believed that viniferas could play only a marginal role in Nova Scotia viticulture. Nonetheless, several vinifera varieties are being more widely planted and are showing increasingly impressive results. Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Gamay are showing up more frequently in local wines, both as single variety wines and, especially, in traditional method sparkling wines. Riesling, in particular, shows signs of becoming a signature variety.

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by tim pawsey

Let’s be honest: rosé has not always been BC’s most stellar effort. There was a time not that long ago when a few of them actually deserved the wide berth people gave them. Rosé was very much an afterthought, not taken seriously as a wine by consumers, let alone winemakers — not exactly the pillar of a producer’s portfolios.

In fact only one rosé (so far) has ever won a coveted BC Lieutenant Governor’s Award for Excellence in the 10 years since the competition started.

Part of the challenge was that rosé styles were (and to some degree still are) all over the map, although pink and off-dry — and occasionally candyfloss — might have been the most often applied descriptors.

However, in recent years, winemakers began to understand the value of lighter, drier, crisper and ultimately more food friendly styles — driven in part by an increasingly sophisticated consumer.

The tendency of liquor stores to regard rosé solely as a seasonal wine, traditionally ordered to be drunk fresh in the summer has also started to shift. More rosé showing up on shelves underscores its growing

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appreciation as a food wine — particularly with fresh cracked Dungeness crab.

In short, of course, it’s the wine’s marriage with food that makes it so wonderfully appealing. Pair it with classic Mediterranean fare such as toasted baguette slices, rubbed with garlic, drizzled with olive oil, topped with mayonnaise, chopped parsley and ripe tomato; or, pour it beside fresh halibut, flash boiled spot prawns, or even with a mild masala curry.

One of BC rosé’s most ardent advocates is Okanagan Crush Pad’s David Scholefield, who recently took on his cohort and winemaker Michael Bartier in a fun “Rosé Smackdown” promotion — that, interestingly, actually highlighted rosé’s ageability when properly made.

“What we need to make is a true expression of the vineyard; to produce wines that show juicy minerality,” says Scholefield. “We don’t need to impose some false, foreign notion. We have fresh, clean wines that are delicious when they’re young but which also have the ability to age. Our wines hang on their acidity — and that’s the great expression of the Okanagan!”

quails Gate’s Grant Stanley

Fort Berens Pinot Noir Rosé 2012, Lillooet ($18) Worth waiting for, the first estate rosé release from the first winery in Lillooet, one of BC’s newest regions (a good 300 km from the Okanagan Valley).

Crisp and clean with pomegranate, apple and strawberry notes wrapped in bright acidity.

Stag’s Hollow Syrah Rosé 2012, Okanagan Falls ($20) Pale to medium rose coloured. Tangerine and bright red fruit on the nose followed by well balanced, firm acidity with lively strawberry notes before a crisp end.

Quails Gate Gamay Rosé 2012 ($16) Winemaker Grant Stanley planted Gamay specifically to make rosé.

24-hour skin contact yields a medium salmon colour; a fruit-forward entry with rhubarb and apple notes before a dry finish. Good value.

Sandra Oldfield from Tinhorn creek

Tinhorn Creek Oldfield Series 2 Bench Rosé 2012 ($23) Cabernet Franc (51%) and Syrah blend (49%) sports pale to medium salmon colour with pure, clean, wild strawberry, rhubarb and a touch of citrus.

Liquidity Wines Rosé 2012, Okanagan Falls ($18) Made from old vines Dornfelder; assertively fruit forward strawberry and red berry notes with savoury undertones and a touch of oak.

JoieFarm “Re-Think Pink” Rosé 2012 ($21) Loire inspired Pinot Noir and Gamay Noir blend sports intense, overtly fruity style dominated by raspberry, strawberry, and herbal notes with lingering dry cherry toned finish.

Bella Sparkling Gamay Noir 2011 ($24) Inaugural release from this small Okanagan producer delivers a delightful balance of fruit and acidity, with cranberry and strawberry notes and a hint of citrus on a gently creamy palate before a crisp, clean end. Méthode traditionnelle, crown cap.

Haywire The Bub Rosé ($25) Chardonnay and Pinot Noir blend with Syrah dosage produces appealing pale pink colour with bright fruit, green apple and cherry notes before a dry finish.

Gray Monk Odyssey Sparkling Brut Rosé ($20) A blend of Pinot Meunier, Gamay Noir and Pinot Noir. Vibrant salmon colour and lively bubbles, fresh cut rhubarb on the nose, with a broad palate of strawberry, and a touch of melon, before a clean finish that tastes drier than it is.

BS (Bartier Scholefield) Gamay Noir Rosé 2010 ($19) From Wise Brothers vineyard on Secrest Mountain in Oliver. Juicy red berries with strawberry and earthy notes in a broad palate with melon hints and a juicy, dry end.

Haywire Gamay Noir Rosé 2010 ($19) Pale salmon toned with bright cherry and cranberry notes, developing but still with vibrant acidity and clean, refreshing finish. •

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It was the summer of 2002. The

wind was howling on the Niagara Escarpment as busloads of wine journalists and dignitaries arrived to a tidy clearing in the middle of a young vineyard, where a giant white tent had been erected. The juggernaut that was Vincor was on a roll, collecting wineries, vineyards and assets like a kid collecting candy on Halloween night.

But this was different. Le Clos Jordanne was unlike anything else in Canada at the time. Burgundian-style Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, meticulously crafted from grapes grown in pristine estate vineyards, promised to lift the reputation of an industry desperate for attention on the world wine map.

With gasps from many who had gathered on that day in July, Vincor, along with its French partner Boisset, unveiled a Frank Gehry winery design that was to be built in this very spot. And it was breathtaking.

The Canadian-born Gehry, speaking via satellite link from California on this day, described the futuristic winery roof as “a silver cloud floating over the vineyard with the winery spreading out beneath it.” The design for the great hall called for a series of floor-to-ceiling glass columns soaring dramatically from their base in the underground cellar. Visitors would be guided through the winery via suspended catwalks and pathways at and below ground level.

It was to be sited in the centre of Le Clos Jordan’s main namesake vineyard surrounded by an environmentally protected forest and woodlands that were hidden from view, some 1,500 feet from the nearest road. As visitors drove to the edge of the vineyard, the winery would slowly reveal itself, complementing the landscape as a gently flowing structure with softly curving white stucco walls and an undulating metal roof, reflecting the natural landscape and the sky. It would be the grandest of all wineries in Canada once it was completed by 2010.

Zoom ahead to 2013.

The clearing in the Le Clos Vineyard where Gehry’s winery was to be built has long been planted over with more vines.

That Gehry-concept winery dream died long ago. And it would be a few more years before the dreams of all the men who built Canada’s largest wine company would also suffer the same fate.

But what a ride it was.

The seeds for Vincor were sown in 1989, when Donald Triggs and Allan Jackson bought Ridout Wines (where Triggs had been president until 1982), the wine division of the Canadian brewing company John Labatt, Inc. Labatt wanted to get out of the Canadian wine business that, at the time, was predicting a dramatic loss of market share due to recent free trade laws that foreshadowed an influx of lower priced imported wines flooding the market.

Jackson had been VP of operations at Chateau Gai, then under the Labatt umbrella, and he, along with Triggs, orchestrated the management buyout. The growing team then set their sights

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on quickly building the Canadian company with acquisitions and mergers to build cash flow and pay down the debt (which they did within two years) incurred by buying Ridout.

Niagara author Linda Bramble, in her book Niagara’s Wine Visionaries, said in her chapter on Donald Triggs: “Triggs always saw the future in premium wines. Being a pragmatist, he figured there were two ways of developing that vision: by developing their own brands and vineyards or by acquiring or merging with the best premium wineries that they could afford to buy.”

Triggs and Jackson chose to pursue both segments of the market under a new company they named Cartier Wines. First they attacked the higher-end market when they merged with Niagara’s Inniskillin Wines, founded and owned at the time by Donald Ziraldo and Karl Kaiser. It was a mutually beneficial arrangement — Inniskillin gained a broader retail presence and Cartier established itself in the premium and ultra-premium wine category.

The company was renamed Cartier-Inniskillin Vintners and the big job of producing enough wine to feed the bottom line began in earnest.

The next major hurdle for Cartier-Inniskillin was the reverse buyout of Brights, which owned considerable wineries in BC, Ontario, Quebec and Nova Scotia. It would be a difficult merger melding two very different cultures, but when the smoke cleared, wrote Bramble, the company had changed its name to Vincor Canada and now had “significant efficiencies of production and scale and a massive and dynamic sales force across the country.”

In 1993, Vincor established the Jackson-Triggs brand. The winery initially produced only two wines, a Chardonnay and a Cabernet Sauvignon. The wines were made partly with Ontario grapes, supplemented by grapes from Chile and California. The wines were an immediate hit, and over the next five years the brand became one of the top 10 bestselling in Canada. The winery wasn’t built in Niagara-on-the-Lake until 2001 and would become the largest VQA brand in Canada, selling 250,000 cases annually.

When Vincor went public in 1996, raising $40 million at $8 a share, the acquisitions came swiftly: London Winery, R.J. Grape, Spagnols, Hawthorne Mountain (bought by Harry McWatters and renamed See Ya Later Ranch) and Sumac Ridge (founded and owned by McWatters).

It also developed Le Clos Jordanne (in partnership with Boisset) and the Okanagan’s Osoyoos Larose (in partnership with Groupe Taillan).

It then moved on to the international wine community buying R.H. Phillip, Hogue Cellars, Goundry, Kim Crawford and, perhaps its undoing, the South African brand Kumala.

As Bramble said, “hardly a year went by that they didn’t mark with an acquisition.”

It was selling one out of every four-and-a-half bottles of wine sold in Canada by 1999. It would rise to become the fourth-largest wine company in the North America and the seventh largest in the world at its peak.

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Then the big blip: shares plunged 13% in 2005 following disappointing numbers from Kumala. Waiting in the wings like a tiger stalking its prey was the largest wine company in the world, Constellation Brands, which wasted no time in launching a hostile bid to acquire Vincor for $31 a share, a deal worth $1.4 billion.

It was an unwanted bid to buy Vincor, but Triggs outsmarted Constellation CEO Richard Sands, and convinced shareholders the company was worth much more than that. Vincor knew it was doomed; all that was left was getting the best possible price from the hostile takeover.

On June 1, 2006 Vincor was officially sold to Constellation brands for $36.50 a share plus a 15% dividend. The dream was over, but the profit from the original $8 shares enabled a lot of new dreams to be born.

Tidings caught up with some of the key Vincor dreamers, the men who shaped the Canadian wine industry, and found not many of them have gone gentle into that good night.

Donald Triggs

The mastermind behind Vincor, Donald Triggs, resigned from the company the day after Constellation bought it. “I think I’m going to live 10 years longer,” he reflects today. One of Triggs’s greatest disappointments was losing the 95-acre Delaine Vineyard in Niagara he and his wife Elaine had worked so hard to plant and nurture. Constellation insisted that it was part of the deal, and crucial to the top-tier wines at Jackson-Triggs. “We didn’t want to sell, but Constellation made it a final condition of the sale,” Triggs said.

There was only one thing left to do: build his own dream winery. Triggs and his wife spent a year looking for vineyard sites in Ontario and BC before settling on a piece of property in the South Okanagan, better suited for his beloved Bordeaux-style reds.

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Culmina Family Estate Winery is located on the Golden Mile Bench. The new state-of-the-art winery is situated on the recently developed vineyard estate purchased by the Triggs family in 2007 after an exhaustive search to locate the perfect land to develop icon quality wine.

The first vines were planted in 2009 with two adjoining benches planted using the same meticulous scientific method, with a third bench planted this past spring. Varietals include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Chardonnay, Riesling, and Gruner Veltliner.

“Our passion for creating icon quality wines is stronger than ever. What I have treasured most has been the opportunity to develop Culmina’s vision with my family.”

The first three wines from the 2011 vintage, to be released this August, are the Culmina High Hypothesis (a Bordeaux blend), Chardonnay Dilemma 2011 and a rosé from 2012.

Allan Jackson

The man whose name is immortalized in one of Canada’s largest wineries, Jackson-Triggs in Niagara-on-the-Lake, stayed on with Vincor Canada under the new owners for four years as vice-president of research and development. He says today that his main focus and impetus was as an advocate for the J-T winery around the boardroom table.

He officially retired in 2009 but that only lasted five months.

“There’s only so much golf and curling you can do,” laughs Jackson on the line from Florida.

He quickly teamed up with former Vincor account manager Andrew von Theichman, who left to start his own wine agency called Von Terra Enterprises.

Jackson and von Theichman created the Generations Wine Company, which under the label Union now sells exclusively to the LCBO and restaurants as a “virtual” winery.

The concept has had phenomenal success. The first wine released at the LCBO was the most successful debut ever for a new VQA wine. Union is essentially a series of multi-variety blends made from 100% VQA grapes in Niagara. Union started with a white and a red and has added Union Noir (Gamay/Pinot), Union Rosé, a higher-end Union Squared Red and White for vintages and is working on a Union Port-style wine if it can get a listing.

Jackson took the demise of Vincor in stride, but is pragmatic about it. “The challenge is ‘How are you going to realize your value?’ When you’re the seventh largest wine company in the world it means there are six companies ahead of you that want to buy you out,” he says looking back.

Of starting his newest venture, Jackson says, “It’s just been a heck of a lot of fun.”

Donald Ziraldo

First, he worked to resurrect the 100-year-old Vineland Research and Innovation Centre in Vineland, Ontario (a worldclass horticultural facility in Niagara), which, until he stepped in, was on the verge of extinction.

Next he bottled and sold a Riesling Icewine under the Ziraldo label from John Howard’s Niagara plantings. He also planted his own organic Riesling vineyard and is planning to bottle an Icewine under his label with his own grapes. But, so far, he’s had difficulty making his beloved stickies. He lost half the crop in 2011 and in 2012 it was too warm for the kind of Icewine he wanted to make. He’s made only one vintage of Riesling table wine, the 2011, available only in restaurants.

He’s also involved in Senhora do Convento Port wines from the centuries old Quinta do Convento de Sao Pedro das Aguias winery, located in Tavora near Oporto, in the Duoro Valley. Ziraldo was approached by owners, Colt Resources of Montreal, to breathe life into the 370-acre estate. As managing director, he quickly established the brand in the global marketplace with the placement of 30,000 bottles of the 2010 Vintage Port on the American Airlines First Class wine list.

Another project Ziraldo has thrown himself into has a family connection. It started when Ziraldo was given an honorary citizenship in Friuli in the town of Fagagna, Italy, where his parents were born. He decided to plant the ancient grape Picolit, which is native to the area, in Fagagna to honour the memory of his parents.

Due to archaic DOC regulations, Ziraldo is not allowed to call his wine Picolit because Fagagna is outside of the official DOC region, so he named it Bianco di Fagagna. The wines will hit the shelves at Vintages soon.

Of all the projects Ziraldo has embarked on since his “retirement” from Vincor, and all the accomplishments throughout his life, perhaps one stands above all the others: At age 64, Ziraldo and his wife Victoria had a baby boy on December 27. It’s Ziraldo’s first child, though, if you ask him, he’ll tell you it’s really his second after Inniskillin.

Donald Ziraldo is perhaps the most important ambassador for Canadian wines this country has ever seen. From the significance of the Inniskillin winery with co-founder Karl Kaiser to his relentless promotion around the world of VQA table and Icewines, more than anyone, Ziraldo is the international face of Canadian wines.

He had planned on staying with Vincor after the sale, and did some international touring promoting both Inniskillin Icewines and Robert Mondavi wines (which Constellation also owns), but it was short-lived. He “officially” retired from Vincor in November of 2006.

Ziraldo has no regrets about first the “merger” with Vincor and later the takeover by Constellation Brands. “I saw it as an opportunity to build a bigger brand,” he says.

After he resigned, Ziraldo took some time off. But “after a couple of years of skiing and reading every book ever written,” he was back, smack-dab in the middle of the Canadian (and international) wine industry.

Donald Ziraldo photo: Victoria Gilbert

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bought Hawthorne Mountain (later named See Ya Later Ranch) and built them into two of the most recognizable Okanagan wineries before joining the mega-bus that was Vincor, and giving the new company needed clout on the West Coast.

McWatters has always been the consummate storyteller and an ardent support of VQA wines in Canada. His knowledge and expertise is unsurpassed. When he sold his wineries to Vincor, he stayed with the new company in the key role of promoting and standing watch over the products he built. He agreed to be part of Vincor for “as long as Don Triggs was there.”

Karl Kaiser

Karl Kaiser, the master of Inniskillin’s wine program for so many years, and the man who made the most famous wine in Canada’s history — Inniskillin’s celebrated 1989 Vidal Icewine, which won the Grand Prix d’Honneur at Bordeaux’s 1991 Vinexpo wine fair — has done what none of the other Vincor executives has done.

He fully retired in 2006 from the business he loved so much.

After a few years as head of quality assurance for Vincor Canada under the new company and Icewine maker at Inniskillin until 2006, as well as some part-time consulting, Kaiser took the time to travel and do some teaching at Brock University. The last commercial wine he made was the most expensive Icewine ever at the time — a commemorative 2004 oak-aged Cabernet Franc Icewine that went on sale for $450 a bottle.

He’s happy now making wines for himself, his family and his pals from purchased grapes and equipment he’s acquired throughout his career. He makes about 45 cases of Sauvignon Blanc and a Bordeaux-style blend and divides it up with three friends every year.

In hindsight, Kaiser isn’t sure it was the best decision to sell to Constellation Brands. “There was a lot of pressure to join a big company,” he says today. “There was nothing I could do.”

For now, Kaiser is enjoying his retirement, making some backyard hooch, doing a little travelling and watching his kids, all of whom are working in one way or another in the wine industry he helped build.

Harry McWatters

Harry McWatters is to the BC wine industry what Donald Ziraldo is to the Ontario wine industry. He blazed a trail that others follow to this day. When Ziraldo fought for VQA designation in Ontario, McWatters followed in BC. In 1988, with Ziraldo being the driving force, Ontario was first to establish VQA, a new set of rules that meant consumers were buying wine that was made with 100% Canadian grapes. BC, with McWatters leading the charge, followed suit two years later in 1990.

Together the dynamic duo took the quality of wines in Canada to new heights with a level of quality most wineries in Ontario and BC strived to achieve. McWatters founded Sumac Ridge and

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The day the hostile bid from Constellation arrived, McWatters was in Tuscany but he knew the end was nigh. All that was left was negotiating the best deal for shareholders. He stayed on longer than most, consulting for three years and all the while setting up his own consulting business.

Today, McWatters’ Vintage Consulting Group is a wide-ranging business that helps wineries get started with viticultural and winemaking expertise, vineyard assessment, marketing and even cellar assessment. His services are sought after across the county. And, as if that wasn’t enough, McWatters has just launched his own legacy brand of Okanagan icon wines. His McWatters Collection, for now a tiny production of Chardonnay and Meritage (the goal is 500 and 1,000 cases respectively, sold direct to consumers, restaurants and a few stores), is made from his Sundial Vineyard, which is really the famed Black Sage Vineyard (the name is now a trademark belonging to Constellation brands when it bought Sumac Ridge), one of the most coveted vineyards in the South Okanagan.

His other project is the new Time wines (“I like the Time font and the name recognition,” laughs McWatters) that will be launched in June. He’s making Chardonnay and a red and white Meritage from 100 per cent estate fruit.

He wants a retail presence with Time and plans a slightly larger production than his McWatters Collection. He’s building a winery on Black Sage Road, where both brands will be made and sold.

Life is good for McWatters, much like all the former Vincor boys. They say the word “fun” a lot. “I don’t have a lot of hobbies,” McWatters says. “I love what I do and I’m going to keep my foot on the pedal. I’m having fun with it.” •

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extra by merle Rosenstein

light

Expert pairing of wine and food heightens the dining experience. For Dr Ruth Westheimer, pairing takes on a totally different meaning. Last July, the pint-sized, octogenarian sex therapist launched a line of low-alcohol wines at only six per cent alcohol. The wines are intended to help couples unwind after a stressful day at work and stimulate intimacy. As Dr. Ruth pronounces on YouTube, “Less is more because if you drink less alcohol, you are not falling asleep and you can perform.” The doctor’s timing couldn’t be better.

In the February/March 2013 issue of Vines Magazine, world-famous wine authority Jancis Robinson refers to low-alcohol wines as a “global trend.” She describes a “sea change” whereby winemakers are producing wines “of which a second glass is not a trial but an irresistible temptation.” Eric von Krosigk, consulting winemaker and viticulturist for Summerhill Pyramid Winery in Kelowna, is noticing a preference for less potent wines among an older demographic. According to von Krosigk, “People who are a little bit farther in their experience of drinking wines tend to look more to the other side. They are into how the harmony of the wine is, how it all plays out. And if it has less alcohol, they actually prefer it because they can drink more of it and not worry as much about having a glass and then driving.”

So what’s the skinny on low-alcohol wines, and why are they gaining traction?

Is concern over obesity and the ill effects of overconsumption putting pressure on producers and impacting purchasing decisions? Are reduced-alcohol wines grabbing the attention of calorie-conscious quaffers? Are wine lovers opting for freshness, elegance and balance over blockbuster bottles with obvious oak?

Does the ease of combining low-alcohol wines with modern cuisine appeal to finicky foodies? Tidings talked to a sommelier, a registered dietician and two winemakers to find out.

The lowdown

Wines in the range of five-point-five to 12 per cent alcohol generally result from grape varietals naturally lower in sugar, exposure of vines to moderate and cooler climates, cultivation at higher altitudes or early harvesting. At the winery, fermentation can be halted before all sugars have been converted to alcohol, or alcohol can be filtered or vaporized. Diluting wine with unfermented grape juice is another method for keeping alcohol content low.

Certain wine styles and regions are also known for less potent wines such as German Riesling from the Mosel region, ranging from seven to nine per cent alcohol; Vinho Verde wines from Portugal, typically about 10 to 11 per cent; Prosecco, with alcohol levels ranging from 10 to 12 per cent; and Moscato d’Asti that rarely goes above six.

Low alcohol wines also tend to be more food-friendly. José Luis Fernandez, wine director at Quatrefoil Restaurant in Dundas, Ontario, says, “If the food has subtle, nice and delicate flavours and you bring out really high alcohol wine it’s going to overpower it, whereas if you have something with low alcohol, the taste will be subtle, more balanced and it will be a better match.”

Go Lite

Fuelling the “less is better” movement, the United Kingdom unveiled a new public health policy in March 2011 to tackle problems such as obesity and alcohol abuse. One aim of the UK’s Responsibility Deal is to expand choices of lower strength alcohol by 2015. Since the launch of the policy, supermarkets have significantly increased the amount of lower-alcohol wine they sell and wine producers have pledged to reduce the alcohol content of some of their brands. For example Tesco, a leading retailer, will reduce the alcohol content of its own beer and cider, and expand its range of lower alcohol wines and beers.

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to express themselves.” Their upcoming release of 2012 vintage white wines includes a Riesling at eight-point-seven per cent alcohol by volume, a blend called Alive with Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Chardonnay, Viogner and Pinot Blanc at 10.4 per cent, a Pinot Gris 10.9 per cent and a Gewürz at 11 per cent alcohol by volume.

Von Krosigk, the winery’s consulting winemaker and viticulturist, apprenticed in the Pfalz wine region in Germany on the Mosel River for a couple of years. He advises that to keep alcohol low, “winegrowers and winemakers have to get out of the mindset of using sugar as the main baseline of ripeness.” As he says, “It’s just one of many parameters. After that it’s really managing the vineyard depending on the wine you want to grow.” Vineyard practices that are most important are managing crop load, leaf thinning and irrigation. Vineyard managers gauge the weather and manipulate the canopy to create the desired flavour profile.

During a hot year, there wouldn’t be a need to leaf pluck, and the leaves would protect the grapes from sunburn. During a cool year, the canopy would be opened up to “get the better flavours.”

One of the winemaker’s all time favourite combinations is asparagus and Riesling. He also recommends that Riesling be paired with quiche, salmon, pork, poultry, shellfish or sushi. As he says, “It doesn’t overwhelm the dish and you’ll still get the beautiful delicate flavours. It goes great with salads — bean, Greek, potato, and fresh fruit or light deserts, sponge cake, anything fresh fruit-based.”

Richie Roberts

According to registered dietician Shauna Lindzon, “Lower alcohol wines can most definitely be healthier for people.” Lindzon explains that “wine is calorie dense and a lot of the calories come from the alcohol content.” Calorie-counting consumers will be interested to note that four ounces of red or white table wine has anywhere between 80 to 120 calories. But if you remove the alcohol from wine, it becomes only 10 calories.

Lindzon compared the amount of calories in carbohydrates, protein and fats, explaining that alcohol has seven calories per gram, while carbohydrates and protein have four, and fat nine. Alcohol calories, therefore, can add up to seven calories per gram. However, removing alcohol does not remove the healthy benefits of drinking red wine. The phytochemicals such as resveratrol are still present. “So that’s a very, very positive thing,” confirmed Lindzon.

A matter of balance in BC

At Summerhill Pyramid Winery in Kelowna, the production of wines with lower levels of alcohol is intentional. According CEO Ezra Cipes, “Lower alcohol wines is part of our winemaking philosophy. Alcohol has such a strong effect on flavour. We look for elegance and balance, layers of subtle flavour and nuance. Bringing the alcohol down opens space for those nuances

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Keeping it low in Ontario

Ontario is well positioned to capitalize on the trend towards lighter body wines due to a cooler climate. One of the major advantages is the delayed bud break beginning anytime from April towards the end of May, depending on the year. As Fielding Estate Winery winemaker Richie Roberts explains, “A lot of the grape varieties reach physiological maturity at a lower sugar level here than they would in a really warm climate, where grapes wouldn’t be at the same physiological ripeness. Because we can grow grapes with lower sugar levels, we can make wines with lower alcohol level and that works to our advantage.”

The winery produces three Rieslings that come in under 11 per cent alcohol every year. Roberts explains that the goal behind these three wines is balance and not necessarily to make sure that the alcohol level is low. The final alcohol in the wine is decided by the amount of sugar that exists in the grapes when harvested. “We are really very cautious about what we are doing out there so we open up the canopy to let a lot of air through for disease resistance and we don’t want the grapes baking in the sun, because the hotter and more sunlight the grapes get, the faster they are going to mature, the higher the sugar. It’s not like with other grape varieties that they struggle to get ripe every year like Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah,” says Roberts.

Roberts picks the Riesling grapes relatively early with a fairly average crop resulting in “a lot of balance in the plant and the fruit at harvest.” The sugar stays relatively low and the grapes have great acidity carrying through into the wine.

Lot #17 Riesling, made from a specific block of grapes from a vineyard owned by the winery on the Beamsville Bench, has nine per cent alcohol. The 10 per cent Estate bottled Riesling is produced with grapes from two different vineyards, one on the Beamsville Bench and a second one farmed by the winery called the Tufford Road Vineyard. The 10.5 per cent Riesling, made from grapes grown by the winery and other grape growers in the region is their best-selling wine.

So what’s holding you back from embracing low-alcohol wines this summer? Some say taste is a barrier. High in tannins with lots of strong aromas, the massive heady super-ripe wines pack a powerful punch. But as winemaker Eric von Krosigk says, “It’s much easier to digest and function, especially around the really low ones that we do around eight-point-two to eight-pointfive per cent alcohol. It’s quite easy to enjoy a couple of glasses of wine in an evening and feel no effects.” And as Dr Ruth advises, low-alcohol wines won’t hinder male performance. This summer, pull up a seat on the patio and enjoy a refreshing glass of Riesling on your own, or with friends. •

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eat the

By DUNCAN HOLMES

I don’t know how it goes at your place, but around here we don’t spend a lot of time between the end of the evening meal and the cleanup that follows. Too often, what should be the gracious, prolonged rituals of dinner are lost in a frenzy of hurried food, followed by a rushed exodus to private worlds of television, texting, and topping up the dishwasher.

Which is why I was delighted the other week when my daughter, who lives in the sleepy fishing village of La Peñita, an hour or so north of Puerto Vallarta, Mexico introduced me to the Spanish word sobremesa — or sometimes estar de sobremesa. Roughly translated, it means sitting around the table having a good time at the end of a meal. Clever Spaniards! Why all of those words when one does it so well?

There were six of us at dinner on the weekend. The meal began with a fine beef tourtière that I had made earlier in the day, and ended with apple pie, topped with a generous blob of smooth and delicious ricotta cheese that Jennifer had made from scratch in a new, at-home dairy venture that we all found beyond fascinating. And then? An amazing estar de sobremesa that went on until midnight.

The motivation for the conversation, and the laughter that went along with it, was this: I had been assigned by my Tidings editor to randomly choose the names of a handful of Canadian musicians, living or not, and to pair them — that word is being applied to everything these days — with a menu item that might be a likely match for their personalities, style, and music. Tough call? For a flurry of foodies, it was a feast — a larder full of possibilities.

Saying that “Google is God,” Jennifer quickly discovered just how many names we had to play with, how many genres of music had rocked, rolled and fat-lady’d out of the Great White North over the years, making fortissimo stamps of Canadian excellence around the world.

Did we have biases in our choices? Of course. Canada’s massive geography, cultures, our regional preferences, and personal musical tastes meant that our opening list was a mélange of just about everyone, up to and including Glenn Gould, humming at the piano, deftly cruising through the Goldberg Variations as we contemplated what we might feed him when he was done.

40 // July/August 2013

At the end of the night, having made notes, we randomly pulled eight names from the list and talked long about how we might pair them with a meal, or, as mostly happened, part of a meal. Starters were as important as mains and desserts — and super simple seemed to be the way to go.

Examples? I recalled Diana Krall’s Departure Bay, and how, in the first verse of this song, Ms Krall mentioned — of all culinary giants — Dairy Queen. The beautiful Nanaimo, BC native sang: The fading scent of summertime, Arbutus trees and firs; The glistening of rain-soaked moss, Going to the Dairy Queen at dusk, Down narrow roads in autumn light.

It was a given to serve up Nanaimo Bars for a dessert for Diana, with a tiny tub of Dairy Queen soft ice cream on the side. A treat for husband Elvis Costello and the twins!

And may the late Oscar Peterson, in his break from the keyboard, have enjoyed a hearty bowl of French onion soup — a nod to his Montreal life — and a crusty French loaf loaded with butter, before launching into his second set?

These were our starters, names that tumbled out in a flood of musical memories. Those who made the cut — names pulled from a hat — are highlighted, and imagined food pairings included. And no, we didn’t determine before plunging on, whether our musical giants are, or ever had been vegetarians or vegans, even if we knew that k.d. don’t eat meat.

Alanis Morrisette, Anne Murray, Avril Lavigne, Barenaked Ladies, Blue Rodeo, Bobby Curtola, Bryan Adams, Celine Dion, Chilliwack, David Foster, Glenn Gould, Gordon Lightfoot, Harmonium, Holly Cole, Ian and Sylvia Tyson, Jann Arden, Joni Mitchell, Justin Beiber, k.d. lang, Leonard Cohen, Lighthouse, Michael Bublé, Michel Pagliero, Mitsou, Neil Young, Nelly Furtado, Oscar Peterson, Paul Shaffer, Paul Anka, Robert Charlebois, Sarah McLachlan, Shania Twain, Stampeders, Stompin’ Tom Connors, The Guess Who, Tragically Hip. You may wish to play with the rest at your own estar de sobremesa. By all means, send your pairings along. No promises, but we may print the most fascinating.

Around Vancouver, they still talk about k.d. lang’s 2010 Olympics “Hallelujah” opener. So good that someone tweeted that if k.d.’s version isn’t played at their funeral, they’ll get up and leave!

And what to serve up for this “woman with a utility haircut and a penchant for male tailoring?” Bring the girls over, k.d., along with friend Tony Bennett, and we’ll chow down on braised chickpea and coconut curry. I found the recipe in Taste, published by the BC Liquor people. It serves four.

2 2 3 1 2 1 1 1 2

tbsp canola oil tbsp ginger, finely chopped garlic cloves, finely chopped medium onion, coarsely chopped tsp ground cumin tbsp red or yellow curry paste tsp ground turmeric tsp ground coriander medium carrots cut into 1/2 inch dice

1 medium red pepper, seeded, cut into 1/2 inch dice 2 cans chickpeas, (19 oz) drained and rinsed 1 can light coconut cream (400 ml) 1 can light coconut milk (400 ml) 2 tbsp fish sauce Chopped cilantro and toasted coconut for garnish Jasmine rice prepared per package instructions

1. In a large saucepan, heat oil over medium heat. Add ginger, garlic and onion, sauté for 1 minute until fragrant, then add cumin, curry paste, turmeric and coriander.

2. Sauté for 30 seconds, then add carrots, red pepper and chickpeas. Stir to coat with spices. Stir in coconut cream, coconut milk and fish sauce.

3. Simmer until carrots are tender, about 5 minutes, or until sauce thickens slightly.

4. Serve with steamed jasmine rice. Garnish with chopped cilantro and toasted coconut. …… Pairs well with See Ya Later Ranch Gewürztraminer and some of k.d.’s music.

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Like Liberace, Madonna, Adele, and a few others, Quebec’s Mitsou Annie Marie Gélinas sings simply as Mitsou. But she’s so good, it’s the only name she needs. Stunningly gorgeous — is that PC in a food and wine mag? — Mitsou made her big start with Bye Bye Mon Cowboy, a song as French as they come, and kept going up. I’ve made dozens — hundreds? — of tourtières, never with a recipe, but I would certainly bake another one and welcome Mitsou and the boys and girls in the band to have at it. The recipe below will get you going.

the filling

1 1 6

lb extra lean ground beef large onion, diced mushrooms, diced

1

tbsp oil for frying beef

the pastry

2 1

cups flour cup butter or lard

1/4 tsp each of dried thyme,

1

clove minced garlic cup beef stock or water tbsp each of ketchup, soy

1 1

egg tbsp vinegar

2

1

1/2

sage, ground black pepper

tbsp water

1. In a large pan, fry the beef, onion, mushrooms and garlic with the seasonings until browned. Add the stock, ketchup and soy, and additional stock if needed. Leave to simmer while you make the pastry.

2. Cut the butter into the flour and mix until the mix has the consistency of corn meal.

3. Whisk the egg, vinegar and water together and add to the flour mixture. Don’t over-mix.

4. Bring the pastry into a ball and let stand as the filling continues to cook on low heat. Let the mix cool and pour into a large baking dish. Roll the pastry and cover the filling.

5. Preheat the oven to 400˚F, glaze the pie with an egg wash if you wish and bake for 40 minutes. Serve with a scratch or store-bought gravy mix.

6. Again, this is the first time I have written my recipe for this famous Quebec dish. It is a forgiving recipe, and I know Mitsou would enjoy it! …… Her choice of wine, but I have a sparkling Shiraz itching to be opened.

42 // July/August 2013

Most everyone on the West Coast knows that Bryan Adams once worked as a dishwasher at the quirky Tomahawk — “You Gotta Eat Here!” — Restaurant in North Vancouver, noted for its Sunday-morning line-ups and its “Yukon-Style Bacon and Eggs,” which means “five generous slices of pork-shoulder bacon, two free range eggs served fried or scrambled, a heaping portion of golden-griddled hash brown potatoes and two thick slices of toast.” The restaurant has been around and probably “waking up the neighbours” for 87 years; we would bring Bryan back for a Yukon-style breakfast, and let him watch someone else do the dishes.

Nobody has ever done Bach like Glenn Gould did Bach. Gould’s interpretation of Bach’s music was a gift to the world. But years later, we remember almost as much about Gould’s eccentricities as we do his handling of the keyboard from a low seat! I had suspected that Gould’s quirks also applied to his diet. Yep, they did. Fran’s Restaurant in Toronto was a regular haunt of Gould’s. A CBC profile noted, “Sometime between two and three every morning, Gould would go to Fran’s, a 24-hour diner a block away from his Toronto apartment, sit in the same booth, and order the same meal of scrambled eggs.” Figures. And any kind of food pairing would have to be something warming, because our Glenn, we’re told, was always cold.

“Scrambled Eggs Gould” would simply include a generous splash of Tabasco.

And for the late, great Stompin’ Tom Connors, we’ll simply toss a well-aged, nicely-seasoned rib steak onto the barbecue, bring out a square of plywood, and listen again to The Hockey Song, Sudbury Saturday Night, and all the rest of the music that made him a cross-Canada legend. Time for eatin’ and stompin’ outdoors!

If I may name-drop for a moment, Vancouver’s has a home a couple of blocks from me. Not that we see much of each other.

He’s either on the road singing up a storm, or with wife Luisana, is getting ready for the birth of a son in August. Michael did a Really Big music video for Haven’t Met You Yet, using as a locale the one-off Killarney Market in the southeast corner of Vancouver. The Killarney always has fresh tortillas in stock— and surely this time, a simple meal of loaded, tasty tacos is the way to go. The ultimate Mexican hand food — and great for cleaning out the fridge!

Michael Bublé

Flour or corn (ideal) tortillas Grated cheddar or Monterey Jack cheese Chopped cilantro Chopped lettuce Diced tomatoes

Sliced cooked chicken, beef, pork, fish or shrimp Sliced avocado Salsa Squirt of lime

1. Set up a mise en place of the taco toppings.

Preheat oven to 375˚F.

2. Place the tortillas on a baking sheet, top with the cheese and bake until the cheese melts, about 10 minutes.

3. The great thing is that cheese provides a barrier

and prevents the tortilla from falling apart. Layer toppings as you wish. …… Fold the taco in half, grab a napkin and a shooter of tequila and enjoy!

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I think that many of us might wish that we could get close to our favourite musical or other celebrities, have a coffee, perhaps dinner, and catch up on what they’re doing. The reality is that when we do get into these situations, we often become tongue-tied fools. (See below). Like the time I ended up sitting on a barstool next to Sarah McLachlan at a bistro near our homes in West Vancouver. While I felt compelled to talk about her career, her good works, how she tuned her guitar, I also felt that maybe she wanted to be left alone. So with some nudging from my partner to help me decide, I left her alone. It seems appropriate to pair Ms McLachlan with a strawberry rhubarb fool — the fool being me? This delicious late spring, early summer dessert, from Vancouver restaurateur John Bishop’s book Fresh, serves 8.

1

1/2 1/2

cup rhubarb, sliced cup sugar cup water

1 cup fresh strawberries, hulled 2 cups whipping cream

1. Place rhubarb, sugar and water in a small pot on medium heat.

Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, until tender, about 20 minutes.

2. Add strawberries and cook for 5 minutes more, until softened.

Transfer the fruit mixture to a food processor and purée.

3. Pour into a bowl and set aside to cool slightly. Cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes. Place cream in a mixing bowl and whip until stiff peaks form.

4. Gently fold whipped cream into chilled purée.

5. To serve, spoon 1/2 cup of the fool into each serving dish. Chill until needed or for up to 8 hours. …… Serve with an Icewine, and some of Sarah’s music!

Leonard Cohen’s

I downloaded So Long, Marianne the other day and wondered again, other than cigarettes, what he must do to maintain the timbre of his remarkable, way-down-there voice. Figuring that soft and gentle must surely be big in his diet, I went to my Food of Israel recipe book to find soprito, which is simply simmered beef or lamb with potatoes. Cooked long and slow, the meat almost falls apart.

Among the ingredients is a bahar mixture of herbs, which includes black pepper, allspice, ground cloves, ground ginger, ground cinnamon, nutmeg, and if you wish, a pinch of ground cardamom. Make up a batch to add an authentically rich Israeli taste to your future stews, grilled meats and kebabs.

Corn oil for deep-frying 3 lb shank of beef, shoulder of lamb, or chicken, cut into large pieces 4-5 potatoes Salt and freshly ground black pepper Bahar mixture (See above)

1. Heat 2 to 3 tbsp of oil in a large, heavy pot

over high heat and brown the meat on all sides.

Add 1 1/2 cups boiling water.

2. Cover the pot and bring the water to a fresh boil.

Lower the heat to minimum so that the water barely simmers and cook for 2 hours, adding more boiling water if necessary. Peel the potatoes and cut into 1-inch cubes.

3. Deep-fry them in another pan until they are golden. Season the meat with salt, pepper and the bahar mix and add the fried potatoes.

4. Continue to cook for another hour over low heat. …… We had this with an Ella Valley Merlot, from Israel. •

44 // July/August 2013

mixed

company What do the Black and Tan, Snakebite, Crown Float and Michelada have in common? They’re mixed drinks made with beer, the next big thing for 2013. by merle rosenstein Beer purists can take heart: as beer cocktail specialist Ashley Routson says, “You are not trying to improve the quality of the beer. You are trying to improve the cocktail experience by adding beer and bringing new dimensions and flavours.” So sneak a peak at some refreshing beer cocktails to slake your summertime thirst. These recipes definitely have pitcher potential. And you won’t want to stop at just one glass.

TheBeerWench

Californian Ashley Routson, also known as TheBeerWench, calls herself a “craft beer evangelist.” Ashley’s interest in beer came through her work with wine in a retail shop and as a restaurant manager. “I realized that beer had a flavour spectrum similar to wine and was a bit more interesting because it had ingredients that could be manipulated and you could throw in anything, especially now.” Routson sees beer cocktails as a “cross-drinker” beverage perfect for introducing wine, cocktail and spirits aficionados to craft beer. It contributes flavour and carbonation to cocktails and has a similar flavour profile to spirits made out of grain.

In creating cocktails, Routson begins with styles of beer and spirits she likes putting together. “I’m a fan of IPA (India Pale Ale) with tequila and mescal. IPA, especially the West

Coast-style, has interesting components that are very similar to those in tequila. They are both bitter and come together really well,” she says. Routson also likes to mix gin with Belgian beers to complement the slight sweetness with floral character. For a twist on a Gin Fizz, Routson shakes gin, lemon juice, syrup and egg whites with ice. She then pours the mixture over cracked ice, and tops it with a Belgian Wit-style beer. The Belgian Wit adds fruity flavour and carbonation. Two refreshing summer cocktails in Routson’s repertoire are the Liquid Pie and the Honey Basil Beer Julep.

liquid pie 1

oz St George Breaking and Entering [bourbon] oz lemon juice oz agave nectar 2 blackberries 6 blueberries 3 oz Trumer pilsner Muddle the berries, agave nectar and lemon juice until berries are completely macerated. Add bourbon and ice, shake vigorously and strain into a champagne flute. Slowly add the pilsner, being careful not to let the foam get too out of control.

1/2 1/2

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honey basil beer julep 1 1/2 oz bourbon 1/2 oz honey syrup (recipe to follow) 2-3 fresh basil leaves 2-3 oz Bison Organic Honey Basil Ale In a shaker pint, muddle basil leaves with the honey syrup.

Add bourbon and ice, shake vigorously and strain into glass over ice. Top with a few ounces of Honey Basil Ale and garnish with a basil leaf.

“Using beer as a base and mixing in other beverages opens up a whole new world of other cocktails.” says Beata Szczypek.

honey syrup 1/2 cup honey 1/2 cup Water

Bring water to a boil. Reduce heat and stir in honey until completely dissolved. Cool before mixing. Store in refrigerator.

Beata Szczypek

Beata Szczypek, beer enthusiast and bartender at DeSottos Eatery in Toronto created seven signature beer cocktails for the Ontario Craft Brewers. Szczypek admits to having a good nose and sensitive palate and tries to complement or enhance the notes she finds in beer. “You’d probably know if I am creating a cocktail at DeSottos because I am usually going from liquor bottle to liquor bottle smelling the different notes, seeing if I can pair it with my nose first. There’s definitely a lot of trial and error with these drinks, and a lot of them get created, tasted and then tossed out,” she says.

Szczypek enjoys creating beer cocktails because they are “relatively unheard of” and the many different lagers and ales have very distinct flavours. As she says, “Using beer as a base and mixing in other beverages opens up a whole new world of other cocktails.” Her favourite beer cocktail to make is the Durham County’s Hyper Katt Martini. She also enjoys the Nickel Brook Spring Blossom, as it is the perfect patio drink.

durham county’s hyper katt martini

1 shot of espresso* 1 oz coffee liqueur 2 oz Durham County Black Katt Stout Slash of cream Chocolate syrup Have fridge-chilled chocolate syrup ready in a squeeze bottle.

Make an espresso, pour it inside a metal martini tumbler and set tumbler aside in a freezer or on ice to cool. In a glass tumbler, pour Black Katt Stout, coffee liqueur and cream over ice. Have a chilled martini glass, and create a swirl inside the glass with the chilled chocolate syrup. Combine the espresso with the iced liquids and shake vigorously. Pour into the martini glass. …… To make a Sleepy Katt Martini, use decaf espresso.

46 // July/August 2013

nickel brook spring blossom

1 oz peach schnapps 1 oz orange juice Nickel Brook Organic White beer Lemon wheel Pour all ingredients into a Nickel Brook traditional wheat beer glass. Float the lemon wheel in drink.

Trevor Kallies

The eight pubs operated by the Donnelly Group in Vancouver are heavily into craft beer from BC microbreweries. Beverage director Trevour Kallies was likely the first in Vancouver to create a drinks list dedicated to beer cocktails. Kallies took the title at the 2011 Craft of Cointreau bartending competition with a beer cocktail, the Orange Hop-sicle, blending Cointreau and Driftwood Brewing’s Fat Tug IPA. As Kallies says, “Everyone else was doing variations on White Ladies and Margaritas, and I took it in quite a different direction. My cocktail only had four ingredients in it and was really well received by the judges because I was able to use all of the complexity and flavour from the Driftwood IPA to really pop out in the cocktail.” The Cointreau cocktail had only three ounces of beer in it.

Kallies starts with a product he wants to work with and decides which part of the beer or spirit he wants to emphasize, being mindful of balance. “If you’ve got a really hoppy beer, you want to bring out bright floral notes, and a lot of citrus; and if you’re dealing with a more malty beer, like a malty ale or an English bitter, you’ll probably lean a bit more towards things like bourbon or whisky or scotch. I’ve got a couple of cocktails that I make with Guinness where I try to use Irish whiskey as the flavour add-on for the appellation of origin. Guinness works just as well with tequila if you can balance it out properly,” he explains.

Here are two successful beer cocktails Kallies has played with.

orange hop-sicle 2 2

oz Cointreau dash Peychaud’s Bitters 1/2 oz simple syrup 3 oz Driftood Fat Tug IPA In a cocktail mixing glass add 2 oz of Cointreau. Add 2 dashes of Peychaud’s Bitters and 1/2 oz of simple syrup. Fill mixing glass with ice, shake and strain into wine glass. Top with 3 oz Driftwood Fat Tug IPA.

geneving is believing

2 oz Bols Genever 2 dashes grapefruit bitters 1 sugar cube 3 oz Alameda Yellow Wolf IPA In a cocktail mixing glass muddle 1 sugar cube that has been soaked in grapefruit bitters. Add 2 oz Bols Genever. Stir until sugar is dissolved. Strain into cocktail glass. Add 3 oz of IPA. Garnish with grapefruit twist.

Molson-Coors and The Martini Club

Molson-Coors and The Martini Club, a team of professional mixologists, joined forces over two years ago to launch a collection of beer cocktails based on the company’s power brands. According to Michelle Hunt, co-owner of The Martini Club, “One of the fun things is, as easy as it is to open a beer, one or two steps more and

you’ve got a beautiful cocktail. When you actually break it down to the sum of its parts it’s so simple and it brings beer to a new height.”

The Sour 67, a cocktail made with Molson 67, crushed wild blueberries and sour mix only has 85 calories. “We’re just trying to bring a little bit of the hops to light but not to the forefront. So the lime and sugar work well with the hops and then the berry just gives it a really nice mouthfeel. It’s so quaffable,” says Hunt.

The Skinny Mojito made with Molson Canadian 67 Sublime has the expression of lemon/lime and includes a bit of cane syrup to give it some sweetness. “We can’t make those fast enough,” admits Hunt. The Cranberry Splash uses Coors Light as the base and adds a hint of cinnamon and tart cranberry juice. “We were picking up little tiny hints of cinnamon and so that’s what led us down the path and we love cranberries with it together. We just picked that one little note and thought ‘we’re going to play with that.’”

the sour 67

To a rocks glass filled with ice, add 3 ounces of Molson Canadian 67, 1 tbsp of frozen blueberries (thawed) and 3 oz of sour mix.

Garnish with a basil sprig.

cranberry splash

To a cosmo martini glass filled with ice, add 3 oz of Coors Light, 1 cinnamon stick and 2 oz of cranberry juice. Garnish with 3 frozen cranberries. …… Pre-mix: 1 cup cinnamon syrup, 2 cups cranberry juice. •

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scream by rosemary mantini

I scream, you scream, we all … right, you know how it ends.

That little ditty and the circus-like chimes blasting from the ice cream truck ring happily in our ears during these wonderfully long, hot days. Remember when ice cream parlours were only open during the summer? I guess the thinking was that no one would want to snack on something cold when the temperature outside was as frigid as the inside of a freezer. At some point, someone must have had a powerful craving in the middle of January. Meghan Taylor, owner of MacKay’s Ice Cream in Cochrane, has this to say on the topic: “As Western Canadians, we are used to shovelling off the deck in winter to bbq a steak; so why not go out for ice cream, too?” One thing led to another and before anyone realized, we could all buy a cherry-topped sundae year round. With that, the world suddenly seemed a far brighter place.

No need to worry that someday soon summer will lead into fall.

As long as there’s ice cream to lick, it doesn’t have to end at all.

Who among us doesn’t smile a little wider at the sight of a double scoop of chocolate, vanilla, tiger tail, or whatever your favourite flavour happens to be? And talk about flavours! How long do you spend staring through the glass trying to decide which one to try this time? Baskin Robbins has created over 1000 flavours throughout its 68-year history. They don’t, however, make one of my all-time picks — fig gelato. This luscious Italian confection offers one more way to cut that full feeling at the end of a meal. Gelato isn’t just the Italian version of ice cream. It’s smoother, even though it’s made with milk instead of cream. It’s lighter in calories, even though it tastes thick and flavourful. Tobias Scott of Lick It Gelato in Toronto suggests that the Italian sorbetto (especially the lemon flavour) is “a very traditional palate cleanser at the end of a course.” Tobias and his colleagues are so convinced of the pleasures of gelato they want you to spread the love (and not only among friends). They make gelato just for “your fuzzy loved one,” too.

Recent years have seen the development of dairy-free ice cream, too. Soy, almond and coconut milk are churned into delightful concoctions. I asked Luna Marcus and Larry Kaplowitz of Coconut Bliss what made them want to create a coconut milk-based ice cream. They said they were aiming for one “that not only tasted great, but made them feel great, too.” So, what’s the secret to dreamy-tasting ice cream? Natural ingredients and no fillers, of course.

No doubt you’re feeling the start of an ice cream craving coming on. I know I am. Wondering which flavour to snack on this time? You can go for the old stand-bys, of course. Or, you can give something new and different a try …

48 // July/August 2013

kale colada Luna and Larry began experimenting with a coconut milk-based recipe for ice cream in 2004. Success soon followed. They’ve since created over 14 popular flavours, and it’s “the first certified organic non-dairy ice cream that is completely soy, dairy and gluten-free, and sweetened with agave syrup.”

1 1/2 1 1 1/2

cup coconut water (fresh or ONE brand) cup frozen pineapple chunks cup lacinato, dino or curly kale (approx. 4 leaves) cup coconut bliss

Blend in a high-speed blender for 60 seconds, and serve immediately.

wine sherbet This sherbet is the perfect palate cleanser to serve between courses.

Feel free to use an ice cream maker if you have one — just follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

1

1/4 1

3/4 2 1 1

tbsp gelatin cup cold water cup water cup sugar cups dry white wine cup fresh squeezed lime juice egg white

1. Soak gelatin in the cold water. Meanwhile, pour 1 cup water and 3/4 cup sugar into a small saucepan and heat until

sugar has dissolved.

2. Boil for 5 minutes, covered. Don’t stir; otherwise the sugar might crystallize. Pour dissolved gelatin in the hot sugar syrup, and let chill.

3. To the chilled sugar syrup mixture, add wine and lime juice. Beat, either by hand or by mixer, until stiff.

4. Stir egg white into the chilled wine mixture.

5. Pour sherbet into a mould or freezer-safe container. Cover with foil, and place into the freezer. Check on it frequently.

6. As soon as it starts to become slushy, give the contents a thorough stir. A hand mixer does an awesome job at reducing the ice crystals that will begin to form.

7. Repeat this process every half hour until the sherbet has hardened. Allow it to sit in the fridge for 20 minutes before serving.

mint chocolate chip Makes about 1 litre

This version of the old classic can be made dairy-free by substituting coconut or almond yogurt. It’s quick and considerably lighter in fat and calories compared to regular ice cream, but full of flavour.

1/2 cups plain Greek-style yogurt 1/2 ripe avocado 1

2 1

1/2

1

1/4

drops mint extract (or to taste) tbsp honey (or to taste) cup semi-sweet chocolate chips tbsp unflavoured gelatin cup hot water

1. Blend yogurt, avocado, mint extract and honey until thick and creamy. Stir in chocolate chips.

silver pony Let’s say you’re looking for something a little different than the everyday ice cream cone, ice cream sandwich, ice cream cake … you get the picture. How about an ice cream cocktail? Surfer aficionado and bartender extraordinaire, Halifax’s Jenner Cormier has created the following two for us. Using ice cream in drinks is easy, he says. There are lots of cocktails that call for heavy cream. Just replace it with ice cream. One word of caution: ice cream is considerably sweeter than cream. Cut the sweetness by adding a splash or two of bitters for balance. If sweet is what you’re looking for, try a splash or two of these: Cointreau, Grand Marnier, Chambord, Cassis, Baileys or Frangelico.

juice of 1/2 a lime juice of 1/2 a lemon 1 oz orange simple syrup 2 oz gin 1 egg white 1 good-sized scoop of vanilla ice cream Splash soda 1/2-3/4 oz Aperol

Fill mixing glass with ice and all ingredients, except Aperol.

Shake hard. Single strain cocktail into a chilled Collins glass. Add a splash of soda to fill the glass. Drizzle Aperol down the side of the glass to help cut the sweetness and to give the cocktail some colour. Garnish with a zest of orange. Serve immediately.

black cherry

2 scoops vanilla or cherry ice cream 1 1/4 oz rye whisky 3/4 oz maraschino liqueur 2 dashes absinthe 2 dashes of Mole bitters (or chocolate) Fill a mixing glass with ice and all ingredients. Shake hard.

Single strain into a chilled coupe. Garnish with grated cinnamon.

2. Dissolve gelatin in hot water. Add it to yogurt mixture; stir.

Set aside until mixture has completely cooled.

3. Pour mixture into an ice cream maker and follow the

manufacturer’s instructions. Otherwise, pour mixture into a plastic container, cover and place in the freezer. Stir every half hour until firm. •

Love the Machine

Technically, you don’t need an ice cream maker to make your own ice cream. But there are lots of advantages to having one close by. Time being the best reason. In about 20 minutes, you could be eating a bowl of fresh, soft-serve ice cream.

The Ice Cream Ball ($24.77) Bring it on camping trips, picnics, barbecues, and anywhere you might be lacking easy access to electricity. Just add ice and rock salt in one end and your own ice cream mixture in the other end. Spend the next 20 minutes shaking it, rolling it and passing it around — voilà, readymade ice cream. The Ice Cream Ball comes with recipes and Flavor Fountain flavourings.

Cuisipro Donvier® Ice Cream Maker ($70) Makes 1 litre of ice cream, frozen yogurt, sorbet, non-dairy desserts and frozen drinks in 20 minutes or less. This ice cream maker doesn’t need electricity to function. The Chillfast cylinder, into which the ice cream mixture is poured, must first be placed in the freezer overnight. Then, mix up your favourite ice cream recipe, pour the mixture into the cylinder and crank the handle every once in a while until the ice cream has reached the desired consistency.

KitchenAid Ice Cream Maker Attachment ($100) This attachment to the classic mixer makes up to 2 litres of fresh ice cream, sorbet and other frozen desserts.

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the mav notes\\ 90 Stratus Gamay 2010, Niagara-on-the-Lake ($29) This wine gives Cru Beaujolais a run for the money! Winemaker JL Groulx treats his Gamay like a top Pinot Noir, meaning he uses classic fermentation (no carbonic) and aging in partial new oak. To further enhance quality he also picked the grapes at a super ripe 14.9% alcohol, but by no means is there any sense of heaviness. The wall-to-wall cherry jam, pepper, coffee and cocoa mesh with medium tannins and acidity. Drink over the next 5 years. (ES)

91 Benjamin Bridge Nova 7 2012, Nova Scotia ($25) Since its launch in 2007 vintage with barely 400 cases made, Nova 7 has rapidly become a Nova Scotia cult wine. Over 7,000 cases will be produced this year and it will be available in 4 other Provinces. Shows seductively aromatic fruitiness with prominent but delicate Muscat scents, together with berry, floral and mineral notes.

Very gentle spritz in the mouth, with berry fruits and pink grapefruit attractively balanced by lively acidity and firm mineral grip. Fruity, floral and lightly honeyed notes linger on the finish.

Perhaps the best yet. (SW)

92 Rosehall Run JCR Rosehall Run Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010, Prince Edward County ($40)

Fermentation took 15 days on native and cultured yeasts, with oak aging in French hogsheads with two-thirds new for about 16 months. I love the explosive red fruits on the nose, more warm- than cool-climate, with raspberry, cherry and cranberry joined by a whiff of cassis and spice. The red fruits are caressing on the palate and propped up by County minerality, moderate acidity and spice. It’s a smooth wine through the mid-palate with ripe tannins and length on the finish. (RV)

87 Lindeman’s Bin 99 Pinot Noir 2012, South Eastern Australia ($12)

Another consumer-friendly offering from Lindeman’s. The nose shows cherry-blueberry fruits on the nose with kirsch, spice and vanilla toast notes. A solid porch-sipper with a basket of red fruits on the palate and added plums and savoury notes. (RV)

90 Palatine Hills Estate Winery Neufeld Vineyard Chardonnay 2008, Niagara Lakeshore ($22.95)

This is a totally overt Chardonnay which has been lavishly oaked. Medium to full body, there is wall to wall toast, spice, caramel, tropical fruit, fig, cream and apples. The acid is low, so drink up, or, as the song goes, “It is here for a good time, not a long time.” Kudos to Jeff Innes, as this is his finest Chardonnay to date. (ES)

91 Norman Hardie County Unfiltered Pinot Noir 2011, Prince Edward County ($35)

Now this is what a great Pinot is supposed to be: refined, pretty, perfumed and that right balance between acidity and tannin. The cherry, cranberry, red flowers and spice leap out of the glass and onto the taste buds, where an added dimension of pomegranate makes an appearance. The finish is long, helping to make this Pinot Noir the best yet from Norm! (ES)

91 Maycas del Limari Pinot Noir Reserva Especial 2011, Limari Valley, Chile ($28)

Ripe, lively and delicious with lots of black cherry, raspberry and red currant, liquorice and spice that dance on your palate, bright acidity and a vibrant minerality. Hard not to have another glass. (GB)

50 // July/August 2013

deadly zins\\

Full disclosure here: I am a huge fan of Zinfandel, an amazing grape that can be vinified into late-harvest Zin, fruity “white” (actually pink) Zin and everything in between. In recent years, the most impressive bottlings have been robust full-bodied reds. Those made from cooler vineyards have a raspberry character. Warmer areas yield Zins with blackberry, anise and pepper aromas and flavours.

Zinfandel originated in Croatia, where it formed the basis of its wine industry in the 19th century. It may have arrived in the United States from the Imperial Nursery in Vienna, Austria, which likely obtained the vines during the Habsburg Monarchy’s rule over Croatia. Although it’s rightly viewed as California’s heritage varietal, Zinfandel is cultivated in several regions of production in South America, South Africa, and anywhere winemakers have a sense of joy and distaste for wimpy wines.

Certain California regions are regarded as “exceptional” for the grape. Amador has a reputation for full-bodied Zinfandel. These extra-ripe wines have been called jammy and brambly. Sonoma Zin is juicy with bright fruit, balanced acidity and notes of blackberry, anise and pepper. (Old vines are spicy and somewhat lower in alcohol than Zins from other regions.) Napa produces plummy and intense wine.

Lodi has some of the oldest Zin vines in California. Lodi fruit is often used for White Zin production. Red Lodi is juicy and very approachable. Keep your eyes open for 7 Deadly Zins out of the Michael David Winery in Lodi.

Zinfandel is fun with food. The white style goes well with Cajun cuisine, Asian fare and BBQ chicken. Red Zin pairs well with lamb, poultry (especially turkey), game, grilled, stewed and braised meats, burgers, hard cheeses, pizza, and tomato-based pasta dishes. For me it is my choice for most meals and definitely a wine for all seasons.

Matter of taste

by Sheila Swerling-Puritt

At the 2013 California Wine Fair, I spoke to a few of the winemakers. Peter Seghesio, winegrower at Seghesio Family Vineyards located in Sonoma, told me that cooler nights from the big Alaskan current continually brought cooler temperatures, which were important to their grapes and that gave them flavours of red and black raspberries and 15 per cent alcohol.

The interior, where it was warmer, gave more raisiny flavours, and yet many Zinfandels can be delicate as a Pinot Noir.

Julie Pedroncelli St John, VP Marketing at Pedroncelli Winery — the third generation at the winery — says that her Zinfandel, which is grown in Sonoma’s northern county, tastes of ripe red raspberries and blackberries with ground pepper, and that spicy flavour gives it a zip. Hallmark of their style is that it is not too lean or jammy, but fruit-forward; they want it fresh and flavourful. And so it is, vintage after vintage!

Ravenswood Zinfandel, Sonoma ($19.95) Big and bold. Raspberries and blueberry fruit flavours that fill your mouth and a herbaceous, spicy component, giving a long finish.

Carol Shelton Monga Zin Old Vine Zinfandel 2008, Organic ($27) These grapes are grown in the foothills of the San Gabriel Mountains, located in the south-western corner of San Bernadino County, Cucamonga Valley. Rustic, but delicious wild berry, liquorice flavours with great mouthfeel. Wait a bit before you devour. •

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tracing roots\\

davine

by gurvinder Bhatia

tom Pennachetti

Although Cave Spring Cellars was formed in 1986, the seeds for its creation can be traced back to the homemade wine of Giuseppe Pennachetti, who immigrated to Niagara in the 1920s.

As with most European immigrants, wine formed a part of the daily routine and was considered an integral part of the dinner table rather than an addition to the meal.

Once retired from his concrete business, Pennachetti began growing grapes in Niagara and spent countless hours working the vineyard with his son and grandson, but the focus was always on quantity rather than quality. Giuseppe’s grandson Len was particularly inspired by the experience with his grandfather and decided to pursue viticulture and grape growing. Len believed that there was something special about the land in Niagara’s Beamsville Bench and, with his father, planted Chardonnay and Riesling in 1978, among the first European grape varietals to be planted in the area.

Since those first plantings of Riesling, the Pennachetti family name has become synonymous with the grape. Today, Cave Spring Cellars is considered to be one of the finest Riesling producers in North America.

Riesling might be the world’s most misunderstood grape varietal. It’s received a bad rap due to the all-too-pervasive lacklustre, sweet apple, juicy-style wines that our parents drank in the 1970s. But fortunately, the image of this noblest of varieties is on the mend, thanks in part to wines from producers like Cave Spring, which highlight its vibrancy, diversity and versatility.

52 // July/August 2013

The beauty of Riesling lies not just in its fruit and floral aromatics or in its stunning ability to provide wine lovers with the perfect example of balancing sweetness with acidity, but also in its ability to express a sense of place, its multitude of textures, its ability to age and its affinity with food.

At a recent tasting I had the opportunity to try a number of vintages of Cave Spring’s Cave Spring Vineyard (CSV) Riesling with Tom Pennachetti. Cave Spring winemaker Angelo Pavan’s notes below on each vintage are followed by my tasting notes.

The tasting reinforced what most wine lovers already know ... we all need to drink more Riesling.

Cave Spring Cellars CSV Riesling 2009, Beamsville Bench ($38)

PAVAN: Extremely cool growing season, coolest on record for the winery, with above-normal precipitation in summer. Very high level of acidity at harvest and in bottle. 20.0 g/L residual sugar (RS) makes this wine medium-dry in style. Definitely a wine that will age gracefully because of acidity and RS balance and will develop nuanced complexity with aging.

Gurvindher: Still just a baby with tropical fruit, grapefruit, crunchy apple and gummy bear. Fleshy and complex, although still quite closed, with a juicy mid-palate, silky texture and bright acidity on the finish. Should age and evolve beautifully over the next 15 years.

Cave Spring Cellars CSV Riesling 2008, Beamsville Bench ($38)

Cave Spring Cellars CSV Riesling 2006, Beamsville Bench ($46)

P: Cooler growing season with just-below-normal heat units and a wetter than normal summer. High level of acidity at harvest and with 11.0 g/L RS in the bottle, this wine is barely off-dry in style. A very tight wine in its youth, this should mellow with aging and hold up well for at least 15 years.

G: Lots of wet stone and mineral aromas with stone fruit; focused and intense with laser intensity and a dry, somewhat closed finish. Still has loads of time to age.

p: The growing season was just a bit warmer than normal, but September was a wet month. Picking was delayed until early November for the Riesling grapes, which produced this CSV to recover from the rains of early fall. Slightly above-normal acidity at harvest balances the 19.0 g/L RS in this wine to make it medium-dry and best consumed within 15 years of vintage.

G: Soft and juicy nose with nice mineral, focused intensity, soft palate finishing dry with easygoing acidity.

Cave Spring Cellars CSV Riesling 2007, Beamsville Bench ($46)

Cave Spring Cellars CSV Riesling 2004, Beamsville Bench ($46)

p: A warm, almost hot growing season and very dry from spring to harvest. But surprisingly good level of acidity retained due to old vines of 30 to 34 years. This wine is just off dry in style with 15.4 g/L RS. Even though this is a warm vintage, this wine should keep well for 15 years without fear of losing balance or structure because of good acidity and low pH of 2.87.

G: Much rounder and softer with a slightly juicy mid-palate, lots of savoury herbs, fennel, mineral; focused, silky texture with nice length. Drinking very well now, but maybe not more than 5 to 8 left.

AGENCE DE VOYAGES W. H. HENRY

p: This was a normal growing season both with respect to heat and precipitation. Ripe Riesling at harvest with just slightly lower-than-normal level of acidity. With 8.6 g/L RS to balance the slightly lower acidity, this CSV is just at the high end of dry and best consumed within a decade of vintage, though it should continue to hold for some years thereafter.

G: Aromas of petrol, honey and spice due to a touch of botrytis, focused with slate and mineral, rich texture, beautiful intensity and a rich long finish still possessing a bright freshness. Great with soft ripe cheese. •

ROYAL INDIA TOUR WITH AN OPTIONAL 4 NIGHT YOGA EXTENSION Royal India Tour – September 25 to october 8, 2013

|

Yoga Extension – october 8 to 12, 2013

INC.

TRAVEL AGENTS

You are invited to join us on this tour of India to savour the splendour and spirituality of India’s golden triangle.

Our tour has been carefully designed to give you an intimate glimpse of India’s Northern Beauty.

Your tour includes: • the legendary forts & palaces of rajasthan • the cherished love story surrounding the taj mahal • the blue city of Jodhpur

• the cultural contrasts of old & new Delhi • the colourful bazaars of Jaipur • the romance of Lake pichola in Udaipur

For a memorable finish to the Royal India tour add on a 4 night yoga extension in Rishikesh.

13 nights in Northern India: $1,872.00* per person, single supplement $794.00 4 nights Yoga extension: $737.00* per person, single supplement $345.00 International airfare will cost approximately $1,589.00 taxes included (subject to change). *price based on double occupancy, including GST, QST and FICAV contribution of $2.00/$1000, Quebec licensee

FOR ITINERARY PLEASE CALL DAPHNE AT 514.369.3300 • 1.800.361.9421 OR EMAIL daphchin@yahoo.com WH Henry Inc 5165 Sherbrooke Street West, Suite 400, Montreal, QC H4A 1T6 Wh_Henry AD_Royal_India.indd 1

3/7/13 9:54:27 PM

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//the food notes 88 Quails’ Gate Gewürztraminer 2012, Okanagan ($17) The Okanagan’s bright acidity keeps this well-noted rich, intense, floral ’n’ spice varietal fresh, tangy and not cloying. Characteristic lychee and exotic spices pervade the senses from aromatic start to off-dry finish.

Remarkably versatile, whether with a smoked salmon appetizer or a spicy Asian-style entrée. (HH)

88 Vindication Rosé 2011, Okanagan ($20)

Deep rose colour and fragrant scents of floral, plum and spice. The juicy, medium-bodied palate has a rich texture and light tannins, so it’s no shrinking violet of a Rosé, made from 100% Cabernet Franc. Its spicy profile continues to a warm finish. Made me want to bite into a pulled pork sandwich. (HH)

92 Château Labegorce 2005, AC Margaux, France ($43.33)

Deep plum-red. Seductive nose of strawberries, blackberries, cranberries and sweet tea. In the mouth there is dense cassis and sweet oak — this is almost Californian in style. Full-bodied; will be a stunner in another couple of years. Served with roasted pheasant scented with absinthe and juniper berries, it was hard to say which was better — the food or the wine. (RL)*

92 Antinori Cervaro della Sala Umbria IGT 2009, Umbria, Italy ($75)

Its bright, straw-yellow hue lures you to sniff its wide-ranging aromas, from acacia flowers to burnt orange to vanilla. The full-bodied palate impresses with intertwined fruit and savoury flavours. Long, complex finish highlights buttered toast, hazelnut and fruit peel. Cellar this 85% Chardonnay/15% Grechetto blend up to 10 years from vintage. Or pair now with pasta carbonara. (HH)

90 Luis Caballero Amontillado NV, Spain ($17.17)

Medium-deep orange/amber. Outspoken nose of orange marmalade, nuts and old wood. In the mouth this is bone-dry and tastes surprisingly fresh with Sultana raisins, hazelnuts and herbal overtones. Serve with olives, any olives. Great value. (RL)*

91 Rombauer Chardonnay 2010, Carneros, United States ($57) This rich, full-throttle, gold-coloured Chard faced 10 months in American and French oak, so expect loads of toasty coconut and spicy vanilla character. Gushes with ripe fruit flavours of fig, apricot and pineapple.

Long, creamy, caramel-flecked finish. Indulge with truffle oil on hot buttered popcorn. (HH)

54 // July/August 2013

89 Mt Boucherie Summit Reserve Blaufränkisch 2009, Okanagan ($25) This varietal hails from Austria while also known as Lemberger in Washington State. Noted for its wild berry aromas, lively spiciness and soft tannins, this Okanagan version exceeds expectations. Loaded with juicy blueberry, raspberry, plum and have-another-sip refreshment. Bring on the charcuterie platter. (HH)

blue devils supper club\\

I’ve hesitated to discuss the Blue Devils Supper Club openly, for fear I would jinx it, for fear it would run its course and sputter aground, for fear, like all good things, it would reach its grand conclusion and implode spectacularly like an ancient, worn-out star.

And yet, miraculously, the Blue Devils Supper Club is celebrating its sixth glorious year in operation, although now that I’ve brought it up, it will probably fall apart next month. Still, the Blue Devils Supper Club is a venture worth mentioning, and because of its success, and my own modest role in that small success, I believe a supper club how-to is in order, for those who may be toying with the idea of starting a supper club.

First, the characters. There are seven of us — three relatively boring couples and one skinny, beautiful singleton named Kathleen who wears glittery eye makeup, velvet capes and highheeled boots. The truth is, I am jealous of her, but of course, I will never admit it. Kathleen has entertained our club by showing up with various gentlemen friends, none of whom quite fit in with our group and each of whom has displayed annoying idiosyncrasies, like the mama’s boy with the nervous tic and the peanut allergy or the balding guy with the oily smile and the “I’m-so-much-better-than-you” smugness that made us all want to punch him. Believe me, it’s not that we don’t want to see our dear Kathleen happy; it’s just that we don’t want her happiness to infringe on our supper club.

The Blue Devils name is sacred and comes from our beloved high school, where the Independence, Ohio Blue Devils fight bravely for championships they never win because the school is just too darn small and the athletic pool even smaller. All of us, save one, are former residents of Independence, the Promised Land, a tiny suburb southwest of Cleveland that is so quaint, pristine and perfect that it’s a wonder any of us moved away.

bouquet garni

by nancy Johnson

Bob, the loner, who lived right on the border — but sadly, not in the Promised Land — is our odd man out and we never let him forget that he didn’t wave the blue and gold at Friday-night football games and that he never sat at the neighbourhood Snack Shop listening to the Stones on the jukebox and harassing old man Merkle at the green grocer’s next door. The Snack Shop was the holy portal to Independence immortality — to give you some perspective, the Snack Shop booths were so sacrosanct that when my beau Ron graduated, he willed his seat to an underclassman, who happened to be my recalcitrant little brother Dennis. And believe me, that type of grand gesture is never forgotten in Independence. Reputations are built upon it.

When we first started the Blue Devils Supper Club, although we had known each other for many years (except odd-manout Bob), our first few dinners were stiff and formal. Everyone worked industriously to bring elaborate dishes to the table, and we were all careful to politely pass the salt and pepper, so no one had to reach. Now six years later, our dinners are loose, uproarious, raucous and even a little raunchy. There are running jokes, x-rated and not, such as the memory of Arlene’s infamous diet cake with the bitter, non-sweet frosting that we all tossed into the garbage. In truth, there is no subject taboo at the dinner table, for good or for bad, but mostly for fun.

We meet every other month, on the second Saturday of the month, meaning we meet six times a year. Each member takes a turn at hosting, and it is the host’s duty to set the theme and entrée, while the others call dibs on the rest of the meal including appetizer, salad, vegetable, or dessert. Margaritas are the official club drink, although Ron and I have ventured farther afield by offering black rum cocktails and cinnamon whiskey shots, mainly because I am not a fan of tequila.

+ Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on quenchbytidings.com

quenchbytidings.com

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Over the years, the food, though delicious, has taken a back seat to the proceedings. The fact is, we don’t care about the food. What we do care about is seeing each other and catching up on each other’s lives, touching base with each other in an otherwise bewildering but often somewhat mundane existence, where friends are sometimes flung far from our reach and even farther from our hearts. In this context, amid the laughter and critical silliness, when we are so inclined, we toast each other and marvel at yet another gathering of the most spectacular and infinitely remarkable Independence Blue Devils Supper Club. Long may we run.

that ’60s shrimp dip Every so often, I take the Wayback Machine to find a recipe for the supper club. This shrimp dip is one of the first recipes I learned to make as a fledgling bride and frankly, back in the day, I could have made a meal out of it. It’s inexpensive to make and quite addictive. I used to serve it with Ritz crackers but you can be much more creative and offer your guests crudités and French bread. They will want to know the secret ingredient, but just wink and say “Only my hairdresser knows for sure” or some other suave tidbit from the Mad Men era.

1 package cream cheese (1 cup), softened to room temperature 1 cup sour cream 1 package Good Seasons Italian salad dressing mix 1 can (about 200 g) small shrimp, drained and rinsed

In a large bowl, with electric mixer, beat cream cheese, sour cream and dry salad dressing mix until fluffy. Gently stir in shrimp. Chill well. Makes about 2 cups.

cuban pork tenderloin serves 6 to 8

Bob and Arlene declared a Cuban night and served this delicious pork tenderloin. I brought rice and black beans and someone else brought a salad of sliced avocados, mangoes and red onions dressed with lime juice and extra virgin olive oil. A Spanish flan with dark melted sugar completed the meal.

2 4 3 1 1 1 1 1

1/2

pork tenderloins cloves garlic, thinly sliced bay leaves cup fresh lime juice cup fresh orange juice tsp ground cumin tsp dried thyme tsp ground coriander tsp sugar

1. Cut several slits in each tenderloin. Nestle garlic and bay leaves in slits.

2. In large food-safe plastic bag, mix lime and orange juices,

cumin, thyme, coriander, sugar, salt and pepper. Add meat and marinate overnight.

56 // July/August 2013

3. Preheat oven to 450˚F. Place pork in roasting pan. Discard marinade. Roast pork 30 minutes. Remove from oven. Cover with foil and let rest 10 minutes. Discard bay leaves. Slice pork and serve. …… Mojitos or Margaritas would work with this dish. For wine, pour a Sauvignon Blanc with tropical fruit flavours.

city chicken serves 6 to 8

I don’t know about City Chicken. Is it just a Cleveland dish? Or is it a dish from the ’50s that nobody makes anymore? City Chicken is actually made with pork; I suspect it was meant to look like fried chicken legs. Maybe. Ron and I hosted a “Cleveland Rocks” supper club a few summers ago, with a menu of kielbasa, sauerkraut and City Chicken. Somebody brought potato-cheese pierogies and we blasted polka music on the Bose. In Cleveland, short thick skewers are sold with our City Chicken pork, but you can use the long slender skewers sold in most supermarkets. Soak them in cold water for about an hour before using. For the record, City Chicken used to be made with equal parts pork and veal cubes before veal got so expensive. If you can find good-quality veal cubes, buy them.

4 lb pork, cut into cubes (or equal parts pork and veal cubes) Wood skewers 1/2 cup flour 4 eggs 1/2 cup milk 2–3 cups dried bread crumbs 1 tsp garlic powder 1/2 tsp sweet paprika 1/4 cup butter 2 tbsp canola oil 1 envelope onion soup mix 2 cups chicken broth

1. Thread pork on skewers.

2. Place flour on plate. In medium bowl, beat eggs with milk.

Place bread crumbs on plate. Toss with garlic powder, paprika, salt and pepper.

3. Dip pork skewers in flour, then in egg/milk mixture. Roll in bread crumbs until coated. Chill 1 hour in refrigerator.

4. In large skillet, melt butter with oil over medium heat.

Brown the pork skewers on all sides. Drain on paper towel– lined plate.

5. Place pork skewers in roasting pan. Mix onion soup mix with chicken broth. Pour around pork skewers. (Some “purists” place their City Chicken on a rack and pour the liquid under, but not touching, the skewers. They add more liquid as needed.)

6. Cover and simmer 1 to 1 1/2 hours or until tender. …… Excellent with beer and polka music. If wine is on the menu, pour a Chardonnay, nothing fancy.

thai chicken with pineapple

ron’s bouillabaisse

serves 8

serves 6

Start with shrimp satay and peanut sauce and finish with homemade vanilla-bean ice cream. This dish is quick to make and delicious to boot.

A garnish of julienned carrots and cucumbers cool the curry’s heat, the flavour of which will change depending on which curry paste you choose.

As I have mentioned in the past, Ron fancies himself a far better cook than I and therefore often creates the main dish when we’re hosting the supper club. This bouillabaisse is quite different from the one I make, but it’s every bit as good. Ron doubled the recipe for the supper club, which gave us delicious leftovers.

1

cup coconut milk cup fish sauce cup fresh lime juice 2 tbsp soy sauce 1/2 tsp brown sugar 1 tsp Thai green or yellow curry paste 1 stalk fresh lemongrass, crushed with side of knife (optional) 2 tbsp canola oil, divided 1 large red onion, sliced 3 cloves garlic, minced 3 cups fresh pineapple, cubed 4 chicken breast fillets, sliced into strips Hot cooked jasmine rice 1 cucumber, julienned 1 carrot, julienned Cilantro, chopped

1/4 1/4

1. In a small bowl, mix coconut milk, fish sauce, lime juice,

soy sauce, sugar, curry paste and lemongrass.

2. Heat 1 tbsp canola oil in wok over medium high heat.

Stir-fry onion until translucent. Add garlic and stir-fry 1 minute.

Add pineapple. Stir-fry 2 minutes or until pineapple begins to brown in spots. Remove from wok.

3. Add remaining 1 tbsp canola oil to work. Stir-fry chicken 3 minutes or until cooked through. Return onion, garlic and pineapple to wok. Remove lemongrass from sauce.

4. Add sauce to wok. Heat through. Serve over rice, garnished with julienned cucumber, carrot and cilantro. …… Gewürztraminer is always a good match with spicy Thai.

1 3 1 2 2 1 4 1 1

1/2 1/4 1/4 1/4 2

tbsp olive oil large carrots, chopped large onion, chopped cloves garlic medium leeks, thinly sliced can chopped tomatoes, drained (398 ml) cups water tbsp dried parsley bay leaf tsp salt tsp saffron tsp dried thyme tsp black pepper lb mixture of shrimp, mussels and scallops

1. In a large Dutch oven, heat oil. Add carrots, onion, garlic and leeks.

2. Sauté until translucent over medium-high heat.

Stir in tomatoes, water, parsley, bay leaf, salt, saffron, thyme and pepper.

3. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer 30 minutes.

4. Add the seafood, cover and simmer 5 to 10 minutes or until cooked through. Discard any mussels that don’t open. Discard bay leaf.

5. Serve in shallow bowls with lots of bread to sop up the juices. …… Try a laid-back Sémillon with the bouillabaisse. •

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must try

light it up\\

Right now, there are about 10 empty wine bottles sitting on my kitchen windowsill — one for each of the wines I’ve truly enjoyed. I’ve always wanted to do something with them. To immortalize them in some way. I turned to my sister, an interior designer and the “craftiest” person I know, for suggestions. She found the following instructions for a wine bottle torch. Developed by Erik Anderson for Gerardot and Company, a branding and design agency in Indianapolis, this is a great way to recycle your empty wine bottles and provide soft illumination for your patio.

Here’s what you will need: 1. Empty Glass Wine Bottle — the neck must be 1 inch in diameter or larger

2. Teflon Tape 1/2 inch 3. Copper Top Plate Connector (threaded for 3/8 inch-16 thread rod) 4. 1 inch Split Ring Hanger (threaded for 3/8 inch-16 thread rod) 5. 1/2 x 3/8 inch Copper Coupling 6. 1/2 inch Copper Cap 7. Two Hex Nuts (threaded for 3/8

inch-16 thread rod) 8. Two #10 x 1 inch Zinc Plated Wood Screws (if your mounting it to wood) 9. 3/8 inch-16 Threaded Zinc Plated Rod

58 // July/August 2013

by Lisa Hoekstra

10. Torch Wick 11. Torch Fuel (Only use fuel made specifically for outdoor torches)

Please note: This is an outdoor project. Treat these torches as you would any other outdoor torch — exercise caution with the open flame.

Here’s how to make it: the mount

Choose the torch’s location.

Mount the Top Plate Connector: Place it on the surface and mark where to put your screws. Pre-drill the screws.

Mount the connector.

Install the 3/8 inch-16 Rod: Screw the rod in until it stops.

Thread the two Hex Nuts on to the Rod: Tighten one to where the Rod meets the Plate Connector. The other remains at the top to secure the Split Ring Hanger.

Thread on the Split Ring Hanger: Stop when the Rod is flush with the inside of the ring. Turn the Hex Nut counter-clockwise to ensure a snug fit. If you’d like to keep the mount looking new, coat the pieces with clear polyurethane before you mount it. For some, the weathered look adds character.

Step 2: The Bottle Prepare the Coupling: Tightly wrap the 1/2 inch end of the Coupling with Teflon Tape. (This will ensure the coupling stays in the bottle and the fuel doesn’t leak). Wrap the tape until the Coupling fits snugly in the bottle mouth.

Add the Wick: Insert the Wick into the Coupling until it sticks out about 1/4 inch.

Hang the Bottle: Unscrew the Split Ring Hanger on one side and position the bottle neck into the ring. Flip the front of the ring into place and tighten the Ring evenly on both sides. Make sure both sides are an even tightness.

Add the fuel & light the torch: Using a funnel, pour the torch oil into the bottle. Insert the coupling/wick into the bottle and twist it into place. Give the wick a minute to absorb the oil. Light your new Wine Bottle Torch. When not using the torch, use the copper cap to keep the wick dry.

I personally would install these around my patio, though I would like to try using citronella based fuel. That way I can enjoy my patio bug free and with that pleasant summer smell. Now, I just have to find an apartment that comes with a patio. •

+ Visit gerardotandco.com/blog/recycled-bottle-torch for more images

Tidings uses the 100-point scale 95-100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

90-94. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

85-89 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80-84. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

75-79. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70 & under. . . . . . . . . . .

exceptional excellent

very good good acceptable

below average

* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . available through

wine clubs green. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . white & rosé wines red. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . red wines

Our Scoring

System

the commentaries in order to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board, or its website, for availability.

Our tasters are Tony Aspler (ON), Sean Wood (NS, NB), Gilles Bois (QC), Evan Saviolidis (ON), Harry Hertscheg (BC), Gurvinder Bhatia (AB), Rick VanSickle (ON), Ron Liteplo (AB), Tod Stewart (ON) and Jonathan Smithe (MB).

Argentina // p. 59; Australia // p. 59; Canada // p. 59-62;

Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category.

Readers should open their palates to compare the relationship between quality and price. We’d also ask you to carefully study

Chile // p. 62; France // p. 62-63; Germany // p. 63-64; greece // p. 64; Italy // p. 64; new zealand // p. 64;

the notes\\ /argentina /

88 Susana Balbo Signature Malbec 2011, Mendoza ($36)

Ripe aromas and flavours of crushed blueberries, black cherry and raspberry with hints of liquorice, mocha and vanilla; a lush texture, with the ripe fruit lingering on the fresh finish. (GB)

/australia / 88 Wolf Blass Yellow Label Sauvignon Blanc 2012, South Australia ($15)

Another fine summer white with gooseberry, grass, herbs

Spain // p. 65; United States // p. 65; Cider // p. 65

and tropical notes on the nose. It’s fresh and delicious on the palate with ripe and tart citrus fruit and subtle tropical notes. (RV)

sweet citrus on the nose.

It’s a fruity, slightly sweet Grigio with plenty of acid to balance it all out. A summer sipper. (RV)

88 Fifth Leg Sémillon/ Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Western Australia ($16)

87 Scribble Hill Sémillon/ Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Margaret River ($20)

The 53% Sémillon in this blend adds a bit of roundness and texture. It’s zesty and fresh on the nose with citrus-lime, passion fruit and light herbs.

It’s racy on the palate with gooseberry and lime flavours lifted by firm acidity. (RV)

87 Lindeman’s Bin 85 Pinot Grigio 2012, South Eastern Australia ($11)

Notes of ripe apple, pear and

Bright and zippy with grapefruit, quince and lime flavours, hints of savoury, fresh herbs; light and quaffable with nice, lively acidity on the crisp finish. Great match with shellfish. (GB)

87 McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate Shiraz 2010, Southeastern Australia ($15)

Purplish, raspberry, blackber-

ry, soft spices and hints of vanilla on the nose. Generous fruit on the palate, sweetish spicy taste; soft but slightly bitter tannins. Supple finish, a tad warm. Drink now. (GBQc)

/canada / 92 Rosehall Run JCR Rosehall Run Vineyard Chardonnay 2010, Prince Edward County ($30)

Sourced entirely from the North Vineyard at Rosehall and picked early to maintain acidity. It’s 100% barrel-fermented and aged in 500-litre French oak puncheons using 75% new oak. This is the best

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//the notes wine that I have tasted from Rosehall. It starts with extraordinary aromatics of poached pear, butter cream, ripe apple, elegant oak stylings, gunflint and a subtle note of caramel emerging.

It’s rich, complex and textured on the palate and built on a lovely foundation of flinty-smoky mineral richness that melds gorgeously with ripe pear, spice, undercurrent of lemon-lime citrus, and all lifted by a fair bit of acidity. (RV)

92 Stratus Chardonnay 2010, Niagara-on-the-Lake ($55) This wine was aged and fermented in 100% brandnew oak, but it is not a total wood bomb; in fact, the blend of wood and fruit is seamless. A bouquet of toast, vanilla, peach, pineapple, fig, honey, spice and mango repeats on the palate, with additional spicy notes meshing with the creamy texture and long finish. Ideal for patio drinking or some BBQed pineapple. (ES)

91 Closson Chase S Kocsis Chardonnay 2010, Beamsville Bench ($34.95) Winemaker Deborah Paskus has been making intense Chardonnay from this vineyard since the early 1990s, first while working in Niagara, and now in PEC. It exudes toast, butterscotch, peach, pineapple, cream and apple. The palate is dense, with great length and a spicy finish. Drink until 2016. (ES)

60 // July/August 2013

91 Rosehall Run JCR Chardonnay 2010, Prince Edward County ($35) In a blind tasting I would call this wine a warm-year Meursault. The nose of smoke, vanilla, toast, peach, honey, tropical fruit and apple repeats on the palate. The long finish is supported by a combination of county limestone acidity and creaminess. Serve this up with some fresh lobster in drawn butter and revel in the sheer nirvana of the experience. (ES)

90 L’Acadie Vineyards Estate L’Acadie 2012, Gaspereau Valley, Nova Scotia, Certified Organic ($20) Nose reveals subtle influence of lees contact, with floral and green-apple notes.

Refined green-apple flavours show amplitude and depth, deftly balanced with clean, crisp acidity and attractive creamy texture. (SW)

90 Gaspereau Vineyards Muscat 2012, Nova Scotia ($19.99) Elegant floral Muscat aromatics together with a pinch of green herb and concentrated green fruit, mango and a trace of lychee in the mouth. Finishes with solid mineral grip and lively acidity. A fine example of what Nova Scotia can do with NY Muscat. (SW)

90 Rosehall Run Cuvée County Chardonnay 2010, Prince Edward County ($21.95) This is the County come of

age! Light straw with a greenish tint and a Burgundian nose — of apple and undergrowth. Elegant and refined, beautifully balanced and full on the palate with a dry apple flavour. (TA)

90 Gaspereau Vineyards Estate Riesling 2011, Gaspereau Valley, Nova Scotia ($24.99/500ml) Intense Riesling varietal floral, citrus and mineral notes with some green-apple crunch, vibrant acidity, tightly focused minerality and an agreeable creaminess on the crisply dry finish. (SW)

90 Exultet Estates The Blessed Chardonnay 2011, Prince Edward County ($40) Exultet is a small-production premium producer located in the South Bay area of PEC. Their 2 previous Chardonnays have won gold at different competitions, and the 2011 is a worthy successor to the royal bloodline.

The brilliant yellow colour leads to a complex mélange of peach, flowers, pineapple, honey, spice, figs, cream and mineral. The palate shows some creaminess as well as refreshing acidity. Pair with some runny raw-milk cheeses such as époisse or chaource. (ES)

89 Rosewood Natalie’s Süssreserve Riesling 2010, Niagara ($14.95) Süssreserve is a winemaking technique that originated in Germany. Unfermented Riesling juice is added back to the wine before bottling to

add sweetness and complexity. This wine has a honeyed apple and grapefruit nose; it’s off-dry with a flavour of honey and peaches. (TA)

89 Mt Boucherie Estate Collection Sémillon 2009, Okanagan ($15.50) Golden-hued and assertive in nose and on palate. Aromas of beeswax, lanolin and citrus grab your attention; then the rich, oily texture, spicy quince flavour and long finish coat your mouth. The lingering waxiness is characteristic of the varietal. A palate-enhancing accompaniment to the cheese board. (HH)

89 Quails’ Gate Dry Riesling 2012, Okanagan ($17) Sourced from 28-year-old estate vines, the style smacks of the Okanagan: fragrant, fruity, crisp, refreshing. Look for sweet orange, tart apple and tangy peach flavours, followed by a dry, palate-cleansing, lime-toned finish. It’s juicy yet vibrant, so a worthy companion for the salad course. (HH)

89 Avondale Sky Cheverie 2012, Nova Scotia ($18.75,

wholesale price: not available for retail purchase) A blend of 4 typical Nova Scotia white varieties showing green apple with hints of characteristic Muscat pungency on the nose. Initial impressions of apple and pear in the mouth shift to stone fruit flavours on mid-palate through the long, crisply fresh off-dry finish. (SW)

89 Creekside Laura’s White 2010, Niagara Peninsula ($18.95) A blend of Chardonnay, Chardonnay Musqué, Pinot Gris, Muscat, Gewürztraminer, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc. Medium straw in colour with an apple and lychee nose; complex flavours of grapefruit, apple and lychee. A well-balanced,

medium-bodied wine. (TA)

89 Quails’ Gate Chasselas/Pinot Blanc/ Pinot Gris 2012, Okanagan ($19)

Opens with a fruit punch to the nose, with whiffs of elderflower. Light in body but perky in flavour, gushing orchard and tropical fruit flavours, with a honeyed mid-palate. Finishes clean and bright, begging for more sips. Off-dry sweetness drinks well on its own, living up to its “classic patio wine” billing. (HH)

89 Huff Estates Cuvée Janine Sparkling Rosé 2010 ($29.95)

This inaugural rose bubbly from Huff is surprisingly dark, more red than pink. Red cherries, raspberries and earth reveal themselves on the nose and palate. There is some residual sugar but the light tannins clean everything up quite nicely. (ES)

88 L’Acadie Vineyards l’Acadie Star 2012, Nova Scotia, Certified Organic ($14.95)

Offers good varietal green-apple and delicate floral character, somewhat lean on

the palate with plenty of brisk acidity, mineral grip and softening lick of creaminess on the finish. (SW)

88 L’Acadie Vineyards Rosé 2012, Nova Scotia, Certified Organic ($14.95)

Delicate cranberry colour, with red berry and cranberry flavours against very dry but lightly creamy background texture. A stylish drop closely resembling similar very dry rosés from the Loire Valley. (SW)

88 Ravine Vineyard Sand & Gravel White 2011, Niagara ($16.95)

A versatile food wine. Light straw in colour with an apple-and-citrus bouquet woven through with a mineral note; medium-bodied, dry apple flavour with enough citrus acidity to give the wine length. (TA)

87 Mt Boucherie Ehrenfelser 2011, Okanagan ($17)

Effusive aromatics bolt from the glass, including floral, citrus and tropical scents. The weighty palate gushes with orange, nectarine and papaya flavours. Tastes drier than previous vintages, but still finishes with honeyed notes.

Not meant for aging, but poised now to pair well with Thai curry dishes. (HH)

87 Quails’ Gate Chenin Blanc 2012, Okanagan ($19)

The inclusion of 8% Sauvignon Blanc enhances the fresh herbal and citrus

aromas. The 15% barrel-fermented juice rounds out the lively palate and lengthens the spice-toned finish. Also exudes flavours of grapefruit, passion fruit, honeysuckle and grain cereal. The fruitiness pops with sashimi. (HH)

with fine black-cherry fruit, dark chocolate, brisk though not overpowering acidity and coffee-mocha notes on the finish. (SW)

90 Thirty Bench Red 2010, Beamsville Bench, Niagara ($24)

This blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Cabernet Franc and 28% Merlot serves us cassis, raspberry, plum, smoky tobacco, sweet herbs and violets. There is still some youthful astringency, so hold on until the end of 2013 and then drink until 2017. (ES)

A Niagara red that comes on like a Claret. Dense ruby-black in colour with a nose of cedar and blackcurrant; medium-bodied, beautifully balanced, elegant and firmly structured. (TA)

90 Malivoire Stouck Vineyard Cabernet/ Merlot 2010, Ontario ($29.95)

A very tasty Meritage. Deeply coloured with a black fruit nose and savoury herbal notes.

Full and rich on the palate with ripe blackberry and blackcurrant flavours.

Satisfyingly long finish. (TA)

90 Rosehall Run JCR Pinot Noir 2010, Prince Edward County ($35)

Very Volnay-like! The pale ruby colour is showing a slightly faded rim, but the perfume is so beguiling: a mix of dark fruit, cherry, spice and earth. The tannins will allow the wine to age gracefully for the next 5 years ... and possibly longer. (ES)

88 Luckett Vineyards Leon Millot 2011, Nova Scotia ($20)

Shows some complexity from the influence provided by 12 months in American oak,

88 Mike Weir Wine Meritage 2010, Niagara ($29)

87 Luckett Vineyards Phone Box Red 2011, Nova Scotia ($20)

12 months in American and Hungarian oak has added complexity and somewhat softened the aggressive acidity of this red hybrid blend.

Plenty of black cherry, plum, firm tannic bite, savoury notes and a pinch of pepper make for ample flavour. Needs 3+ years in the cellar. (SW)

87 Quails’ Gate Pinot Noir 2011, Okanagan ($25)

Bright red berries, earthy forest floor and dried herbs engage the nose. Tart cherry and ripe raspberry flavours, backed by firm acidity, enliven the medium-bodied palate.

The cinnamon-stick finish lingers warmly. Matches well with herb-rubbed, pancetta-stuffed roast chicken. (HH)

86 Mt Boucherie Family Reserve Zinfandel 2009, Okanagan ($35) Wafting from the glass are

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//the notes waves of ripe blueberry, jammy raspberry and liquorice aromas. Gushes with rich red and black fruit flavours, supported by an inky density and a warm, toasty French oak finish. To really wake up your palate, try this with lamb biryani. (HH)

87 Cornellana Brut NV ($13.17)

/chile /

90 Maycas del Limari Syrah Reserva Especial 2009, Limari Valley ($28)

89 Viña San Esteban Chardonnay/Viognier 2011, Aconcagua Valley ($15.95)

This is a wine for lovers of rich new-world Chardonnays.

Golden straw in colour with a buttery, peach and spicy oak nose; full-bodied ripe peach, pineapple and mango flavours, full and creamy on the palate.

Good value. Chill and serve it up on your deck. (TA)

89 Maycas del Limari Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 2011, Limari Valley ($22.99)

Clean, refreshing and crisp with bright acidity, great balance of grapefruit, lemon and lime citrus, fresh herbs, a touch of spice and a long, mouth-watering finish. Grilled shellfish and exotic fruit salad would work well. (GB)

89 Maycas del Limari Chardonnay Reserva Especial 2009, Limari Valley ($28)

Rich and textured, with apple, melon, quince and pear flavours, loads of fresh mineral notes and a long, bright finish. Great with sashimi. (GB)

62 // July/August 2013

Pale yellow with plenty of bubbles. Interesting nose of pastry dough, Granny Smith apple, citrus and ripe bananas. Surprisingly full-bodied with crisp acidity, lemon and orange flavours and a hint of peach. (RL)*

Juicy and vivid with blackberry, plum and blueberry fruit, an intriguing meatiness, firm but silky tannins and a bit of savoury spice on the long, mouth-watering finish. (GB)

/france / 93 Domaine Laroche Les Blanchots Grand Cru Chablis 2009, Burgundy ($70)

Captivates with a bouquet of white flowers, apple, lemon, peach, chalk and a hint of smoky vanilla. Seduces with elegance, balance and persistence. The duo of 75% stainless-steel fermentation and 100% malolactic fermentation accentuates freshness and texture. Benefits from decanting, too. Pair with a simply prepared fish fillet like a sole or tilapia meunière. (HH)

90 Château Haut-Bertinerie 2009, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux ($20)

Straw yellow. Ripe nose with delicate citrus notes over well-dosed fine oak, hints of white flowers. Grassy notes develop in the glass. The vivid

acidity is in contrast with the mellow richness brought by the oak. The intense flavour has finesse and persistence.

Aging potential of 3 to 4 years. (GBQc)

90 Domaine Cazes Muscat de Rivesaltes 2008, Vin Doux Naturel, Roussillon ($25)

Pale gold. Cocktail of exotic fruits with characteristic hint of burnt rubber. The fine acidity brings a nice freshness.

Moderately sweet, its rich texture coats the palate. A tad bitter in the finish, this is well compensated by the sweetness. Ready to drink. (GBQc)

90 Domaine Huet Le Haut Lieu Moelleux 2009, Loire Valley ($38.25)

This Chenin possesses a moderate 54 grams per litre of residual sugar. Honey, wax, lime, bergamot, apples and pear are all in play. The acid is on the lower end of the spectrum due to the warm growing conditions in 2009. Chill well and serve with some blue cheese or as a summer sipper. Now until 2020. (ES)

89 Pesquié Viognier 2011, IGP Méditerranée ($18.50)

Pale yellow. Sharp nose of citrus with hints of tropical fruits (mostly pineapple).

Clean taste; balance is slightly on the acidic side but with a nice roundness and weight in the middle palate, sign of a quality Viognier. It finishes neatly, so don’t wait to enjoy a glass. (GBQc)

89 Domaine Huet Le Haut Lieu Sec 2011, Loire Valley ($28.10)

This is a pure expression of dry Chenin; citrus, white flowers, honey, lime, white peach, red apple and crush rock resonate both on the nose and palate. Lifted acidity and a long finish make for a fine aperitif wine or a partner with freshwater fish. Drink over the next 6 years. (ES)

88 Maison Roche de Bellene Chardonnay Vieilles Vignes 2010, Burgundy ($20)

Pale yellow. Buttery, oak-dominated nose with notes of white fruits and a slight mineral undertone. Sharp acidity, silky and thick mouthfeel, slightly bitter but intense flavour and good length. Quite expressive and ready to drink. (GBQc)

88 Bailly-Lapierre Brut Pinot Noir Crémant de Bourgogne, Burgundy ($24) Very pale, tiny bubbles.

Engaging nose of bread dough and delicate notes of white fruits. Clean taste, fruity and fresh. Light body; noticeable bitterness in the finish. (GBQc)

87 François Lurton Sauvignon de Bordeaux 2011, Bordeaux ($11.95)

Leaning more to New Zealand style than Pessac-Léognan.

Pale straw colour with a nose of grapefruit and passion fruit; medium-bodied, crisply dry with lemony, gooseberry flavours. Great value. (TA)

86 Château de Lancyre Grande Cuvée 2010, Côteaux du Languedoc ($27.50)

A somewhat ambitious white cuvée that shows a medium yellow colour with green reflections. Nose is citrusy and oaky with a light herbaceous note. Very fat texture, thick; balance is on the acidic side with some bitterness in the finish. This is obviously not ready to drink and not representative of its future taste. Wait a few years; it may surprise you. (GBQc)

83 Cave Vinicole de Hunawihr Muscat 2009, Alsace ($14.17)

Light gold color. In-your-face nose of lychees and pineapple.

Light-bodied, just off-dry.

Good typicity, simple grapey flavours and good acidity with a lemony finish. A wine to convert someone who doesn’t like wine. Drink early. (RL)*

93 Château de Beaucastel 2010, Rhône Valley ($89.95)

This 2010 is more perfumed and does not show the dry tannins of the ’09, even though there are more than enough to ensure 20+ years of longevity. Cherry, plum, raspberry, plum, smoke, pepper and violets are all present in this full-bodied and high-octane offering. The finish is long-lasting. (ES)

90 Château Cailleteau-Bergeron 2010, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux ($18) Dark purple. Ripe black fruits, soft spices and vanilla scents from the oak; light smoky

undertone. Full-bodied, rich velvety texture, smooth and tight finish. Aging potential of 5 to 7 years. (GBQc)

90 Château Saint-Roch Chimères 2010, Côte de Roussillon ($18.95)

If you like full-bodied rich red wines then you’ll love this one. Dense purple in colour, the wine has a bouquet of blackcurrants with a note of wild herbs. Lots of well-extracted ripe fruit here with a firm tannic finish. (TA)

89 Château de Treviac 2010, Corbières ($15.95) This blend of Syrah and Grenache is dense purple in colour with a nose of white pepper and boysenberry.

It’s sweet and juicy initially on the palate but finishes dry with liquorice and herbal notes. (TA)

89 Domaine Cazes Ego 2010, Vieilles Vignes Côtes-du-Roussillon-Villages ($18)

Ruby purplish. Delicately fruity nose of ripe black berries.

Bright fruit on the palate, soft texture, clean taste, spherical mouthfeel. The intense finish is warm but there is no burning sensation. Delicious to drink right now. (GBQc)

89 Domaine de Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem 2009, Côtes-du-Roussillon-Villages Latour-deFrance ($24.25)

Ruby purplish. Black fruits, animal notes and spicy toasted oak. Full body, warm mouthfeel, grainy tannic structure.

Intense, warm finish. (GBQc)

88 Galevan “Paroles de Femme” Côtes du Rhône 2010 ($13)

Made from organically grown Grenache, Mourvèdre and Cinsault, this lovely and affordable Côtes du Rhône red has a pretty nose of crushed red berries, forest floor, eucalypt, herbs and lovely liquorice and anise notes. It has quite a mouthful of juicy and fresh red fruits with smoky tobacco, liquorice and tar accents. A smooth and delicious Rhône red. (RV)

88 Frédéric Magnien Fixin 2009, Burgundy ($27.30)

Light ruby. Elegant nose of small red fruits and just the right amount of oak (which is not much). Supple, almost light-bodied, easily approachable and clearly on the finesse side in the classical Burgundian style. (GBQc)

87 Gerard Bertrand Art de Vivre Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Vin De Pays d’Oc ($12)

You won’t find many French Cabernets at this price point, and Gerard Bertrand does a nice job in building a bargain wine that fights above its weight class. Look for bold raspberry, blackberry and violets with light spice on the nose. It’s smooth and fruity on the palate with just a lick of oak spice and a fair amount of acidity. (RV)

87 Domaine Langlois-Château Saumur-Champigny 2010, Loire Valley ($17.95)

Tobacco, cassis, spice, violets,

cherry and raspberry are all found in the 100% Cabernet Franc wine. Mid-weight, it is accessible, with soft tannins rounding out the finish. Pair with a grilled veal chop marinated in oregano and olive oil. (ES)

86 Couly-Dutheil La Coulée Automnale Chinon 2010, Loire Valley ($15.95)

This 100% Cabernet Franc is a textbook example. Herbs, violets, tobacco, raspberry and cassis are supported by supple tannins, fresh acid and medium length. The price is right, so grill some fennel sausage, layer it on some pasta and then drizzle liberally with tomato sauce. (ES)

/germany / 92 Reichsrat von Buhl Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Spätlese 2009, Pfalz ($25)

A floral nose that is joined by summer peach, crushed stone, honeycomb and spiced apple pie. It’s a touch creamy on the palate with notes of fennel and ginger mingling with quince and mature peaches.

Really interesting medium-sweet Riesling here.

Could cellar for 10 or more years. (RV)

92 Domaine Costal Chablis “Les Truffières” 2010, Chablis ($38) This is classic, old-school Chablis made in collaboration between Bernard Raveneau and Kermit Lynch from a single vineyard using

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//the notes organic Chardonnay. Such an inviting and interesting nose of lemon-citrus, oyster shells, wet stone, apple, forest foliage and just the tiniest whiff of biscuit. It is enthralling as it builds on the palate and the subtleties start emerging — chalky minerality, lemon-citrus, foraged mushrooms, nuts and green-apple notes. It has the depth and acidity to evolve and deliver pleasure for many years even if it is, after all, a village Chablis. (RV)

/greece / 90 Katogi & Strofilia Averoff Xinomavro 2007, Naoussa ($17.95) Deep ruby in colour with a slightly orange rim, a nose of red berries, clove and forest floor; full-bodied with a cedary note and dusty tannins. It reminds me of a Barbaresco. (TA)

/italy / 92 Ruggeri Prosecco ‘Giustino B’ DOCG 2011, Veneto ($76/Magnum)

Beautiful and elegant, with lovely, fresh aromas. Flavours of orange blossom, peach and apple with hints of almond; great balance, so refined with fine bubbles and a long, lingering, clean finish. A gorgeous bubbly from the king of Prosecco producers. (GB)

90 Inama Vin Soave 2011, Soave Classico, Veneto ($18.50)

Straw yellow. Floral notes,

64 // July/August 2013

ripe fruit (apple, pear), camomile. Mild acidity, ripe fruity taste. The rich mouthfeel has a nice volume. Dry finish and ready to drink. So don’t wait. (GBQc)

89 Tommasi Poggio al Tufo Vermentino 2011, Tuscany ($12.95)

From the Maremma region on the coast of Tuscany comes this very flavourful white made from the Vermentino grape. The wine is straw-coloured with a floral, peach and apple bouquet; it’s medium-bodied with a touch of sweetness in mid-palate. A very versatile food wine at a good price. (TA)

91 Il Veltro Brunello di Montalcino 2006 ($27.50)

Medium-deep cherry red proclaims the Sangiovese grapes. Intriguing nose of ripe strawberries, herbs and spices, and a bit of caramel from the oak.

Medium-bodied, tastes of cherries with a little mint and lots of tannins. Not ready yet; needs time. (RL)*

89 Carpineto Dogajolo 2011, IGT Tuscany ($17)

Full ruby. Red fruits, touch of oaky vanilla, slightly earthy and a hint of liquorice.

Balanced, medium body, ripe fruity flavour, good extraction.

It finishes firm and slightly tannic. Drink now and over the next 2 to 3 years. (GBQc)

89 Castello di Gabbiano Riserva 2009, Chianti Classico, Tuscany ($23) Dried red fruits, used oak,

hint of vanilla. Slightly warm on the palate, but there is freshness in the fruit. Very soft tannins, firm tight finish. Carafe 1 hour before drinking or keep 2 to 3 years. (GBQc)

flavour to burn. A nose of passion fruit and green bean gives way on the palate to elegant, poised flavours of grapefruit, passion fruit, guava lemon zest. Quintessential Marlborough Sauvignon. The finish goes on forever. (TA)

88 Luigi Righetti Campoleti Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2010, Veneto ($16.95)

90 900 Grapes Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Marlborough, New Zealand ($18)

82 Feudi di San Gregorio Primitivo di Manduria 2011, Puglia ($22.99)

89 Babich Gimblett Gravels Gewürztraminer 2011, Hawkes Bay ($16.95)

Ripasso, adding freshly fermented Valpolicella to the skins and lees of Amarone production, makes for a more complex and richer wine.

Deep ruby-purple in colour.

The nose is all spicy plum and raisins. The palate is creamy with flavours of plums and milk chocolate and a note of cloves on the finish. (TA)

Jammy and simple, with plum and cherry that is a bit confected, not much structure and lacking in much character. Finishes with a sweet, candied quality that leaves a sugary aftertaste. A dumbed-down version of Primitivo, and quite disappointing from a producer that is capable of so much better. (GB)

/new / zealand 92 Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Marlborough ($23.95)

They don’t get much better than this. Don’t be alarmed by the pale colour; this wine has

So named because it takes about 900 grapes to make a bottle of this wine. It’s a wonderful SB that shows sweet summer grass, herbs, grapefruit, lime and tropical fruits. The lively and fresh fruits are carried on a firm spine of acidity on the palate all leading to a long finish. Summer sipping at its best. (RV)

A Kiwi Gewürz of quality.

Light straw in colour with spicy, honey and lychee nose and an undergrowth note; medium-bodied, perfumed, elegant, dry, lychee flavour, great length with an alcoholic finish. (TA)

88 Matua Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Marlborough, New Zealand ($16)

Typically New Zealand SB with a nose of grapefruit, grass and a basket of fresh garden herbs. It’s fresh and crisp on the palate with lively citrus fruit, herbs and touches of guava and mango all spread across a racy beam of acidity. (RV)

/spain / 91 Castillo de Montblanc Brut Cava Reserva NV ($14.33) Medium lemon yellow with tiny bubbles. The nose is of yeast, lemon, almond custard and even a hint of mango.

Slightly sweet, it tastes of almonds and apple strudel with refreshing acidity and lots of fizz. (RL)*

lovely on the palate with ripe tannins, red fruits and delicious supporting spice.

Nothing overdone here, just a nice smooth red. (RV)

87 Bodegas Portia Ebeia Roble 2011, DO Ribera del Duero ($15)

95 Corelium 2006 Priorato ($51.17)

Very dark plum-red with fine suspended particles. Smells of plums, prunes and pungent cigar tobacco, with hints of black cherries and old violin wood. On the palate there is a mouthful of dark berries with prominent alcohol and tannins that are still bitter.

Luscious now and will soften and gain complexity over several years. (RL)*

88 Foustino VII Tempranillo 2010, Rioja ($13)

The Spanish house of Foustino is all about tradition, and so it is with this charming Tempranillo that shows ripe berries, cherry, raspberry and spicy vanilla on the nose. It’s

Ripe field raspberry, liquorice, plums, spice and savoury notes on the nose. It takes on an earthy profile in the mouth with bright raspberry, spice and a smooth texture through the finish. Excellent match for hard cheeses, grilled vegetables and hearty soups. (RV)

/United / states 93 Signorello Estate Hope’s Cuvée Chardonnay 2010, Napa Valley ($90)

After an aromatic, complex tropical fruit nose, the weighty palate is ultra-rich, ripe and mouth-coating, yet remains well-balanced and supple.

Long, creamy butterscotch and nutmeg-laden finish. Unfiltered, so only chill lightly (or it’ll become cloudy if refrigerated). A prime choice to fuel wine-tasting discussions. (HH)

89 Ghost Pines Chardonnay Winemaker’s Blend 2010, Sonoma/Monterey/Napa ($19.95)

This Chardonnay serves up a combination of tropical fruit and oak. There is density with sound acidity rounding out the experience. Pair with orange roughy in a cream sauce. (ES)

89 Sandhi Chardonnay 2011, Santa Barbara County ($44)

88 Montevina Terra d’Oro Petite Sirah 2009, Amador ($32)

Bold, ripe and rich, with loads of wild berry and blackberry; hints of liquorice, vanilla and spice. Fruit-packed tannins, but still quite drinkable and polished for its bigness. (GB)

87 Pepperwood Grove Old Vine Zinfandel 2011, California ($14)

A big, juicy nose of blackberries, tobacco, cherries, nutmeg and clove spices. A full-throttle Zin in the mouth, with juicy red and dark fruits backed up by an array of spices. (RV)

Fresh and ripe, great texture, with lovely vibrant apple, pineapple and tropical fruit flavours, hints of dried herb and citrus; full-bodied, great balance and immensely drinkable with its wonderful complexity. (GB)

/cider /

93 Steltzner Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2005, Stag’s Leap ($71)

Clos Saragnat Avalanche Ice Cider 2009, Quebec ($27)

Opaque plum-red. Nose of blackcurrant, lanolin, liquorice and tea. Medium-bodied, tastes of cassis and strawberry jam with a few drops of bright acidity. In the glass, opens up to chocolate and coffee scents and raisin pie flavours. Tannins are still harsh; this needs more time but will be great. (RL)*

Christophe Bartomieu is the inventor of ice cider and one of its best producers. Nose of cooked apple skin, brown sugar, dried tropical fruits and a touch of mint-like freshness. Taste follows on the same theme with great flavour concentration and intensity. Sweet but not excessively so; not syrupy at all. Impressive. (GBQc)

Wine Care Specialists

Strictly Cellars & Accessories

• Wine cellars from 30 to 500 bottles or more • Wine racking and cooling systems • Select wine accessories and stemware

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1-866-396-7225 w w w.strictlycellars.com

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what’s our future\\

Guess how many glasses of Canadian wine are consumed

by Canadians each year? If you said one billion, take the rest of the day off. That amounts roughly to 220 million bottles or, if this is the way you purchase your wines, 18.3 million cases.

You probably don’t need an excuse to drink Canadian wine, but here’s a compelling reason to do so that will appeal to the lurking accountant in all of us. By purchasing a bottle of local wine you will single-handedly be propping up the Canadian economy.

A recent study commissioned by the Canadian Vintners Association, the Winery and Grower Alliance of Ontario, the British Columbia Wine Institute and the Winery Association of Nova Scotia discovered that the Canadian grape and wine industry generates a whopping $6.8 billion annually. Nearly half of this figure, $3.3 billion, is raised by the Ontario wine industry.

(But just to put this in perspective: 73 per cent of wines sold in Ontario are what is known as ICBs — International Canadian blends — which are comprised of up to 70 per cent off-shore material.) British Columbia raises $2 billion, Quebec $805 million and Nova Scotia $196 million.

The report, entitled Canada’s Wine Economy — Ripe, Robust, Remarkable, estimated that for each bottle of wine produced in Canada, “there is $31 of domestic economic impact generated in the country.”

This figure is factored from a number of interlocking concepts: “The grape and wine industry is responsible for more than 31,000 jobs in Canada, from manufacturing, agriculture, tourism, transportation, research, restaurants and retail.” More than three million visitors travel to wine country each year generating more than $1.2 billion through tourism revenue and employment. Less to applaud, perhaps, is the fact that the wine industry generates federal and provincial taxes of $1.2 billion, which includes liquor board markups.

66 // July/August 2013

final word

by tony aspler

Currently sales of wines produced and bottled in Canada represent only 30 per cent of all wines sold across the country.

Can you imagine the same statistic in France, Italy and Spain, let alone California? But the good news for the industry is that the growth in Canadian wine consumption of imported and domestic wines is three times faster than that of the world level. Between 2007 and 2011, Canadian wine consumption increased by 14.55 per cent. This statistic translated into the sales through liquor control boards and Alberta’s private stores of over 43 million 12-bottle cases.

A report by a Vinexpo market study predicts this growth in wine sales in Canada will continue at the same pace between 2013 and 2016 and is forecast to reach 14.27 per cent. This translates as an average annual increase of 3 per cent, three times that of overall world wine consumption.

So the Canadian wine industry has some catch-up to do if they want to increase their share of the pie. Privatization could help or at least the setting up of VQA stores in key markets.

As I see it Ontario and Quebec will be the last provinces in Canada to privatize. There is no political will to alter the status quo (which is shorthand for saying “Don’t kill the golden goose” — although Alberta has shown the government still gets its pound of flesh whether they own the stores or not).

In an effort to appease the groundswell of criticism from wine lovers, the Ontario government is cautiously, cautiously experimenting with the idea that consumers will be able to buy wine and spirits in their local grocery stores. The LCBO, late next year, will be setting what they term “express outlets” inside 10 as-yet-unspecified grocery stores. A timid approach to say the least, and only begrudgingly undertaken to take the legs out from under the Conservative Party’s desire to see wine in corner stores. •

illustration: FRancesco Gallé, www.francescogalle.com

Please enjoy responsibly.

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