Tidings May/June 2011

MAY/JUNE 2011

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//features

32

20// bio logical by gilles bois

Organic wines start to take shape.

22// a woman renowned by peter gill

Celebrating the women of Canadian wine.

25// How’s your mouth-

feel?

by tod stewart How texture plays into your wine experience.

28// what factors into greatness? by carolyn evans-hammond Is price the only indicator?

32// eat, drink, live: Northland, New Zealand

by rosemary Mantini Star of the New World. Second in the series.

36// get your irish up by matthew sullivan A special whiskey tasting.

41// sunrise

by gurvinder bhatia

41

An awakening in Israel’s wineries.

44// pop, pop. fizz, fizz.

by Michael Pinkus Learn the language of Italy’s dry sparklings.

48// lone star by john lee

20

A driving tour of Texas wineries.

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//Ă la carte 7// Contributors 8// from the editors 11// Conversations Letters to the editor.

13// Simple Living Michael Volpatt

40

14// Umami Joanne Will

17// Anything but

martinis

sheila swerling-puritt

18// Bon Vivant Peter Rockwell

40// must try

rosemary mantini

47// after dinner jonathan smithe

52// Da vine

14

Gurvinder Bhatia

55// Bouquet Garni

//notes 54// the food notes

Nancy Johnson

An appetizing selection of food-friendly faves.

66// final word Tony Aspler

58// The Buying Guide

Top wines from around the world scored.

Argentina // p. 59 Australia // p. 59 Austria // p. 59-60

52

Canada // p. 60-61 CHILE // p. 61 France // p. 61-63 Germany // p. 63 Italy // p. 63-64 New Zealand // p. 64 portugal // p. 64 United States // p. 65 beer // p. 65

4 // May/June 2011

C O M P L E X, B A L A N C E D

F

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//online

//contributors

+ more on tidingsmag.com

Follow us on twitter and tumblr Quenchbytidings.tumblr.com twitter.com/quenchbytidings Gilles Bois retired from engineering 8 years ago. Since then, he is devoting more and more time to his passion for wine, traveling to discover the newest trends and regions, meeting people who turn grapes into wine and taking part in tasting panels. He writes about his experiences in Tidings and other magazines.

Recipes New Mother’s Day menus featuring wonderful crêpes, maple bacon bites, smoked trout rillettes and more.

travel Explore Greece with Evan Saviolidis.

Cooking School Re-discover fresh, healthy and tasty falafel.

Q&A What is sorrel anyway?

blogs Matthew Sullivan lives in Toronto. Besides writing about wine, he is a lawyer practicing public law, which helps pay the bar tab. His weekly wine column for Precedent Magazine can be found at www.lawandstyle.ca/shortcellar.

Get your food and wine fix, updated weekly, at Best You Never Had and Kitchen Mama.

Plus!

More original recipes; a daily serving of

food and drink news and views; culinary tips, tricks and techniques.

itter Follow us on twwin for a chance to tream m a SodaS on tidingsmag.co more details

From the farmer’s field to the dining table, Joanne Will writes about the people and issues connected to the journey of food. She recently co-wrote The Tyee’s 100-Mile Diet inspired Eat Your History series, and contributed to their new book Harvested Here: Delicious Thinking about Local Food. In addition to Tidings, she writes a weekly column for the Globe and Mail. Contact her at jlwill@shaw.ca.

Next Month In Tidings 11th annual canadian issue Terroir wars: Niagara vs Burgundy The secret behind kiln dried wines Grape hybrids: driving an industry

Originally from the UK, John Lee is Vancouver-based travel writer whose work appears in magazines and newspapers across North America and around the world. A Lonely Planet guidebook author, he also wrote Drinking Vancouver in which he reviews 100 bars around the city. Recent travels have taken him to Texas, Scotland and Singapore,p68 and you can follow his adventures online at www.johnleewriter.com.

Matching with fast food: what do you drink?

Diary of a wine tasting addict Highlights from Nova Scotia, BC and Niagara ... And So Much More

tidingsmag.com

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//from the editors

\\

May/June Issue # 295

it’s been a while by nancy johnson Editor-in-chief

I joined the party in issue #244 in December, 2004. I was working at Sony Music and enrolled in George Brown’s culinary program, studying the Escoffier method of cooking and dabbling in wine. The editor, Aldo Parise, had called me about a jazz CD he hoped to give away to new subscribers. Together we came up with an awesome compilation of Sony jazz icons. With the project nearly finished, I finally worked up the courage to ask Aldo if he would accept a manuscript from a new food writer. Glory be to heaven — he said yes!

With that first article, I felt I had finally arrived at the ball. Tod Stewart was there with a look at the burgeoning new cigar craze.

Gurvinder Bhatia was on hand to suggest wine pairings for the Christmas turkey (Zins, Pinot Grigios, Dolcetto D’albas). And then there was Tony Aspler. I could hardly believe I was in the same magazine as Tony Aspler! I had read his books and dutifully clipped his articles, pressing them between the pages of my Oxford Companion to Wine after committing the salient points to memory. In Tony’s December 2004 column, he grudgingly looked at the emerging trend for outrageous wine names. Some of those wines, like Fat Bastard and Little Penguin have become international juggernauts. Others, like Bad Dog and Big Moose, well … not so much. Tony was bang-on with his early observation — and criticism — of whimsical wine labels. In their zeal to sell wines with loony labels, vintners have forgotten the real value and purpose of the wine label — to educate the buyer about place, time, grape, taste, winemaker and quality. To hint at the terroir of a certain wine. To whisper that a good warm summer was captured in that bottle of Bordeaux.

Although my George Brown days are behind me, I am still a student of food and wine. I look forward to every Tidings issue and learn something new each time. From Maverick Chefs to The Next Big Thing, Tidings has been moving towards the 300th mark with grace and élan. Since issue #244, contributing lifestyle editor Rosemary Mantini has joined us and now offers a panoramic view of wine regions in her joyful column “Eat Drink Live: New Zealand.” The magazine’s cover shots have become juicier. The pages have grown fatter, with beautiful food, wine and celebration. This is a party that everyone is invited to attend. And we’re very glad you’re here!

8 // May/June 2011

Aldo Parise editor@tidingsmag.com Contributing Editors

Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart Contributing food Editor

Nancy Johnson Contributing Lifestyle Editor

Rosemary Mantini Columnists

Tony Aspler, Peter Rockwell, Michael Volpatt, Joanne Will, Sheila Swerling-Puritt, Michael Pinkus, Gilles Bois Contributors

Michael Pinkus, Carolyn Evans-Hammond, Sean Wood, Harry Hertscheg, John Lee, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Robert Hausner, Peter Gill, Jonathan Smithe, Matthew Sullivan Tasters

Tony Aspler, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Jonathan Smithe and Gurvinder Bhatia COPY DESK

Lee Springer, Jennifer Croll web editor

Rosemary Mantini Creative by Paris Associates Art Direction

Aldo Parise Production

ww+Labs, cmyk design, studio karibü Illustrations & Photography

Matt Delay, Francesco Gallé, Push/Stop Studio, august photography Cover Design

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Audited by

editorial photo: Justin Johnson

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conversations\\

Kylix Media CFO

Lucy Rodrigues Circulation

circ@tidingsmag.com Accounts

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I recently prepared Nancy Johnson’s Bacon & Lobster Alfredo recipe as a side dish believe it or not to grilled Angus marinated flap steak in lieu of garlic mashed potatoes. What can I say, friends and family will never eat steak and taters the same again. It was fantastic. Even the fussiest of kids lapped it up.And to top it off, we (the adults of course) washed it down with a couple of bottles of Il Brecciarolo which was reviewed in The Notes of the same Feb/March issue of Tidings . This wine is an incredible find and at such a low price.

... One might imagine that this is a positive use of science, until insects and microorganisms evolve to beat us at our own game ...

Wayne Marcoux, email

www.tidingsmag.com www.tidingseats.com Now in our 38 year th

Kylix Media, 5165 Sherbrooke St. West, Suite 414, Montreal, Quebec, H4A 1T6, Tel: 514.481.6606, Fax: 514.481.9699.

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Tidings, Canada’s Food & Wine Magazine, a registered trademark of Kylix Media, is published 8 times a year: (February/March, April, May/June, July/August, September, October, November, December/January).

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We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada Periodical Fund (CPF) for our publishing activities.

Re: “Just Numbers” by Michael Pinkus.

Cloning is considered normal within the industry of agriculture. We now have grapes, and other plants, that are cold- and disease-resistant thanks to this type of genetic engineering. One might imagine that this is a positive use of science, until insects and microorganisms evolve to beat us at our own game. (Is flavour affected, too?) I don’t want to sound the alarm bells. I just believe it’s important to examine all sides of an issue before embracing it wholeheartedly.

T. Wong, email

It was nice to see you review Obikwa Sauvignon Blanc (Notes, April ’11). I was wondering what it was like. I received a bottle of it for Christmas, but hadn’t yet opened it. So, with Tidings in hand, I poured myself a glass. Your review was spot on. It was light, fruity, refreshing.

L. Long, Halifax

Material chosen for publication may be edited for clarity and fit. Please e-mail your comments and questions to editor@tidingsmag.com.

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© 2011 Masco Canada Limited

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simple living

by michael volpatt

//foraging

One of my new favourite foods is wild mushrooms, and having recently been on a number of foraging expeditions my foodie friends and I have been trying to expand our use of fungi in the meals we prepare. After a recent expedition a number of us got together to prepare a meal with the mushrooms we had found lingering around the huge California oak trees.

Foraging takes patience, which is something I have little of, but the rewards are absolutely incredible. The rush you get when you discover a grouping of golden chanterelles hiding behind fallen leaves and pine cones from the neighbouring redwoods is exhilarating and leaves you wanting to find more.

While many of us could have stayed all day in the woods we headed home to begin cooking. I was given the task of creating a starter and decided on a hearty mushroom and leek tart baked in a crust of pâte brisée. It’s very easy to prepare, but if you shy away from making your own crust a frozen, store-bought version will do just as well.

Pâte brisée When making the dough be sure that the butter and water are ice-cold.

2 2 1/2 2 1 4

sticks of unsalted butter (16 tbsp) cups of flour tsp kosher salt tsp sugar tbsp ice-cold water

1. Start by cutting the butter into chunks and then place into

the freezer for about 10 minutes. Remove from the freezer and place into the bowl of a food processor along with the flour salt and sugar. Pulse for about 15 to 20 seconds or until the mixture resembles a coarse meal.

2. With the machine running slowly, pour in the cold water until the dough holds together without being sticky. Remove

from the bowl and divide into two equal balls. Wrap with plastic and let rest in the fridge for 1 hour.

3. Remove from the fridge and roll out one of the balls on a floured surface. Form into a tart pan and place back into the fridge. You can freeze the other ball or make another tart (you will need to double the recipe below).

Mushroom and Leek Filling

4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 3 leeks, white part only, cleaned and chopped (yields about two cups) 2 cups of chopped mushrooms (we used local trumpet mushrooms) 1/4 cup of dry vermouth 1 tsp salt 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper 6 eggs, beaten 2 cups shredded, sharp white cheddar cheese or a local sharp, melting cheese of your choice

1. Preheat the oven to 350˚F. Place a large sauté pan on the

stovetop and turn on to medium heat. Add the olive oil and then the leeks and mushrooms. Sauté for about 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Turn up the heat to high and deglaze the pan with the vermouth. Let cook down until all liquid has dissipated and remove from the stovetop.

2. Transfer to a large mixing bowl and let rest in the refrigerator to cool for 15 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well.

3. Transfer the filling to the tart pan containing the pâte brisée. Place into oven and cook for about 40 minutes or until knife comes out clean. …… Serve with a California white like the Marimar Estate La Masia Chardonnay.

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Umami

by Joanne Will

//the udder truth

Judy Pigott was a retired college teacher looking for a hobby when she turned to ice cream. “I started playing around with flavours in 1999. It was my mom’s idea. She was trying to help me find a hobby, but that’s as far as it was ever going to go,” says Judy.

She started with a small ice cream maker purchased at Sears — which produced a maximum of one batch every 12 hours. At that rate, Judy says it took her about six months just to perfect the vanilla flavour.

She incorporated in 2000, and began operating from a commercial kitchen in her garage. “I was working seven days a week, sometimes from seven a.m. until two or three the next morning. That’s when I realized it wasn’t a hobby anymore,” she says.

In the meantime, her mom had also found a name for the business: The Udder Guy’s.

“When someone gives me a challenge, like my mother did, I tend not to let go until I’ve done it. And I’m so fussy, it had to be exactly right or I wasn’t going to do it,” she says.

For Judy, getting it “exactly right” meant using the highestquality ingredients, and no fillers. From fresh ginger root to the coconut she husks, shreds and roasts herself, the Canada Food Inspection Agency went through each of her flavours and couldn’t find one unnatural ingredient.

14 // May/June 2011

When she outgrew the garage-kitchen, Judy and her husband, Yves, moved the operation to a larger facility. They also opened an ice cream parlour in Vancouver Island’s pastoral Cowichan Bay, where they could sell cones in addition to tubs of their ice cream. That was a decade ago.

Yves works year-round in the shop. They have one additional full-time employee, and hire local students for the bustling summer season. Their ice cream is also available in grocery stores and restaurants throughout British Columbia.

What makes the Udder Guy’s Old-Fashioned Ice Cream so unique? “There are already enough cheap ice cream makers out there. When I read the ingredients, I see there’s wheat in that stuff. Why put wheat in ice cream? It’s filler, and because they put so much air in cheap ice cream they need it to fill the box. It makes their ice cream less expensive to make,” says Judy.

The Udder Guy’s were once almost acquired by a popular West Coast candy maker. “It looked like a good fit, but when we were close to striking a deal, they said my ice cream was expensive to make, and so they would put a little more air in it. I said ‘no way — you can pack up your briefcase and go.’ I couldn’t do it. I would not have been able to sell my name. If I’m not going to make a premium quality ice cream, which was our initial vision, then I’m simply not going to make ice cream at all. I won’t compromise,” says Judy.

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anything but Martinis

by sheila swerling-puritt

//smartserving

Not that long ago a “bar tender” was a husky red-faced man of Celtic extraction who sloshed spirits into your glass and listened attentively to your tales of woe. Nowadays, the person behind the bar is a “mixologist.” The term refers to a man or woman working as a drinks chef creating a range of beautiful, delicious and innovative cocktails.

“Mixtress” Michelle Hunt is a glittering example of modern excellence behind the bar. A pre-med graduate, Michelle arrived in Toronto in 1994 and discovered that she couldn’t find a good vodka Martini here. She shifted her curriculum to bartending, and graduated with a certificate in “responsible serving,” now known as “Smartserve.”

In 1996, Hunt and partner Laura Panter founded the Martini Club, a consultancy specializing in custom drink design, mixology training programs and specialty bar service. The Martini Club has become a one-stop shop for companies looking to make an impression in an increasingly savvy consumer market.

The company now has 35 trained mixologists, and all are foodies who love good food and wine. Twenty of the 35 are women who receive the same rate of pay as the men, but tend to get bigger tips!

Michelle Hunt was born to do business. A flavour specialist and new product guru, she has made a career of forecasting taste trends and developing exceptional flavour palettes. She creates flavours to entice the palate and, reflecting her early education, enhance healthy consumption and wellness.

Hunt attributes her discerning palate to her mother’s predilection for stylish living and dining out — as often as four times a week. Her personal tastes incline more to savoury than sweet, but she combines a wide range of tastes, using fresh herbs and

+ Visit tidingsmag.com/drinks/ for more drink recipes

spices in unexpected ways. “I need punched up flavour,” Hunt says, “that’s what I find exciting and sexy.”

So what’s hot these days? Well, vodka is still the number one spirit for mixing with a definite return to the classics: martinis, bourbon sours, and mojitos, but this time they are flavoured with blueberry and sage. Gin, rum, and tequila are gaining strength, and the kitchen comes to the bar with fresh ingredients like grapefruit juice, tarragon or perhaps fresh ginger.

The Kilt Lifter 1/4 cup peeled and diced cucumber 1/2 oz fresh lemon juice 1/2 oz simple syrup 1/2 tsp peeled chopped fresh ginger.

2 oz Hendrik’s gin.

Add the first four ingredients into a cocktail shaker. Muddle well. Fill the shaker with ice and then add the gin. Shake sharply and fine strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a cucumber and pickled ginger skewer. …… I substitute the Monen ginger syrup. Ask your favourite coffee shop where to buy it if you can’t find it in your grocery store.

THE GINGER MARGARITA 1 1

oz 100% silver agave tequila oz fresh lime juice 1/2 oz Cointreau 1/2 oz ginger-honey syrup.

Add to a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake well and strain into a rocks glass over ice cubes. Garnish with a candied ginger slice.

tidingsmag.com

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by peter rockwell

//real reds & some sulphur

Why are red wines red?

I love this kind of question. On the surface it seems completely idiotic to ask it. But guess what, I hear it all the time because a lot of people just aren’t sure. Why are red wines red? And better yet, why are white wines white? And, since we’re tossing around queries that appear obvious, why am I so amazing? It would take this whole issue to answer that last one, but the mystery of the first two is easy to explain.

Red wines don’t get their pigment from the pulp of the grape (at least not much) or by blending different coloured wines together; it comes from ... wait for it ... the skins of the grapes. Though the amount of time the skins stay in contact with the juice can vary depending on the winemaker and style of vino being made; suffice it to say that the longer a wine’s juice is in contact with the skins, the deeper and richer its hue becomes. The darker the skins, the heavier the colour extraction.

White wine production generally excludes skin contact so the juice flows free of colour except for what little the wine does pick up from the pulp or possibly from being aged in oak barrels. Believe it or not (I love saying that) many so-called “white” wines (they’re really more light green to yellow) are made from grapes with red (actually more like purple) skins. Too long with the juice and they’re on their way to a watery-looking rosé.

A rosé is the halfway point between red and white. Most modern versions get their pink colour from limited red grape skin on juice exposure (rather than a blend of white and red wines). The winemaker lets things soak just long enough to suck out some colour from the skins without going all the way to the red side.

18 // May/June 2011

I’m allergic to sulphur. Are there any wines I can drink?

Are you really? Really? Look, while I’m no doctor (I just tell that to girls in bars) in all my years on the booze beat I’ve never met anyone who could actually confirm that their problem with wine was because they had an aversion to sulphur.

Now before the League of Sulphur Sufferers starts with the emails, I’ll acknowledge that it’s probably true that if something exists on this Earth there’s more than likely someone out there who’s allergic to it. Maybe I just haven’t met the right kind of people yet.

Here’s a quick non-professional diagnosis: If you can drink any wine at all without getting a headache or whatever ailment reveals itself after a few sips than it’s unlikely you’re allergic to sulphur — it’s in almost all of them. (Those few that “claim” to be sulphur free are few and far between).

Though used sparingly during the winemaking process (including organic wine production) sulphur appears naturally in wine. If you’re allergic you shouldn’t be able to drink any vino at all. Poor you.

I blame the warning labels on some international wines for getting the anti-sulphur bandwagon rolling. Though not required by Canadian law, countries like Australia require their wine panels to carry them primarily to tip off asthmatics (who can have violent reactions to sulphur dioxide).

Since you didn’t say what your particular tipple trouble was, I’ll assume it’s a headache or an issue with your sinus cavity — the typical complaint. If you can drink white wine but not red, odds are tannin or histamine is the culprit — both are plentiful in red wines.

The true question isn’t what wine you should drink; it’s what’s really wrong with you. Get your doctor to confirm your allergy assumption and hope you’re wrong about the sulphur diagnosis.

+ Ask your questions at bonvivant@tidingsmag.com

Illustration: Matt Delay/Shinypliers.com

bon vivant

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Bio logical

by Gilles bois

Do bio wines taste better? The French banty the term for their organic selections quite a bit. Are they only healthier, being free from chemicals? It’s with that question in mind that I entered France’s Montpellier Exhibition Centre to attend Millésime Bio, the largest wine show dedicated exclusively to certified wines made from organically grown grapes.

Between 2008 and 2009, organic vineyards grew by 75 per cent in Spain, and 39 per cent in France. A recent survey revealed that 10 per cent of the French vineyard total area will be converted to organic by 2012, in a process that takes three years to complete.

Only then can a producer indicate on his bottles that they contain a “wine made from organically grown grapes.” The wine itself cannot be called organic, since there is not yet a set of rules governing this modern winemaking process. Reaching an agreement on the quantity of sulfites that can be added may be the last roadblock. Other countries, namely the USA and Canada, have their own set of rules.

Why this sudden surge? Many of the producers I’ve talked to justify the move by saying that they have become more conscious of the environment. Others are seeing it as another step in their never-ending quest for better quality. But those reasons are true everywhere, so why is the conversion so much more important in the Old World, at least according to the official numbers?

20 // May/June 2011

Over the years, the Old World has lost ground to producers of the New World, who have delivered large quantities of decent wines at a better price. To avoid a gloomy future, they slowly formed a consensus around the idea of regaining market share by improving quality. This has since become a key strategy, and organic certification can be a very effective tactic in that strategy.

Many winemakers from all countries don’t claim to be organic, even if they are. To them, the wine must speak for itself, not a logo on the label. Which brings me back to my original question — do they actually taste better? My general impression is that there are fewer occurrences of artificial or off-odours, allowing a purer, more precise expression of the fruit. But off-odours are often due to unhealthy grapes, affected by rot or pests, and the use of chemicals is supposed to prevent just that. But chemicals don’t necessarily lead to healthier grapes. Clearly, more attention and care in the vineyard can do just as well, with less impact on the environment as a bonus.

Winemakers that stood out at the show included A & J Beaufort, who makes delicious champagnes from two vineyards, Ambonnay and Polisy. You have to taste them to appreciate how gorgeous they are, packed with complex flavours. The 1996 bottles were

Gabriel and Wenny Tari from Château de Brau

Domaine Clavel’s Pierre clavel

really stunning, and hint at what we can expect from more recent vintages. They are available from time to time in Canada, but disappear very fast.

In Pic St-Loup, the Cuvée Bonne Pioche 2009 from Domaine Clavel had rich, beautiful fruit, firm tannins with a tight mouthfeel. Les Garrigues 2008 in Côteaux du Languedoc La Méjanelle had a somewhat discreet, red fruits nose, but appeared compact and well balanced in the mouth. It should evolve favourably over the next few years.

Sparkling Blanquette de Limoux from Domaine Delmas is worth checking out. The nose is discreet, but it tasted very clean and pure.

The Pinot Noir 2009 Vin de Pays d’Oc from Château de Brau surprised with its fresh strawberry nose and modern style. Their 2009 Fer Servadou from Vin de Pays d’Aude had great red fruit and a nice mineral touch typical of the cépage.

Domaine Cazes is a familiar name, famous for their vin doux naturel Muscat de Rivesaltes. They also make dry whites and reds, namely the Canon du Maréchal white 2010 which had a simple (but very clean) citrusy nose and a light palate. The Cuvée Marie-Gabrielle 2009 in Côtes du Roussillon also showed nice red fruits, a full body and a tight finish.

Cuvée Prestige 2007 from Château de Caraguilhes in Corbières-Boutenac had gained complexity in the bottle, showing fine, ripe black fruits and fully integrated oak. A nice round mouthfeel led to a somewhat angular finish.

Domaine des Carabiniers reds in AOC Lirac and Côtes du Rhône showed great freshness and delicious fruit. The producer recently hired a Canadian agent, so expect availability sometime this year.

Last but not least was a nice surprise from Egypt.

Jardin du Nil is a dry white made from Vermentino and a little Chardonnay. It had a light and refreshing taste, perfect on a sunny afternoon baking in the desert heat while contemplating the Great Pyramids.

They also make a couple of reds and a rosé. Their total production is consumed by local tourists. •

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\\ 21

by Peter gilL

It’s common to think of men while contemplating the history of Canadian wine.

Men like George Barnes founding Barnes Winery in 1873, John Marynissen planting Cabernet Sauvignon in 1978 and, of course, Donald Ziraldo obtaining the first new winery licence in modern times. However, it was, and still is, women who have helped Canadian Wine make great strides. What follows is the story of women who have already (and who still are) creating or promoting much of the wonderful product coming from the wine regions of Canada.

Actually, it might be a woman who was the first winemaker, of a sort, in Canadian history. In the late 1700s, Lady Elizabeth Simcoe reported in her diary that she had made a “nicely turned out” cordial from Niagara fruit, which was much appreciated by her husband and other officers. Whether the fruit included grapes is unknown, but given that wine grapes were reported in Canada in the 1600s, it is extremely likely. It couldn’t have been Cabernet, however, but more likely wild grapes, the same that the natives brought to the Falls as a gift to the spirits in even earlier times.

22 // May/June 2011

the beginning of our new industry

To follow up on the history of women in Canadian wine, we must now jump forward to a significant time in Niagara’s history. To 1959, to be specific. It was in that year that Helen and Bill Lenko received their first vines from France and started planting Chardonnay next to their pear trees. Helen, until her passing a couple of years ago, was a constant presence on the Lenko farm, and later the winery. Who in Niagara doesn’t remember having a slice of pie in the kitchen with Helen while tasting Lenko wines? Indeed, when Bill was named Grape King, Helen sat unofficially as Grape Queen at his side.

Not all the history of women in wine took place in Niagara, however; things were stirring on the West Coast as well.

The winery on Kelowna’s Casorso Road, first started as a vineyard in 1930 by Peter Casorso, was taken over by Velma Sperling and her husband in 1960. Peter Casorso was Ann Sperling’s grandfather, but talking about Ann Sperling at this point would be getting ahead of our history.

Starting in 1971, Jane and Ian Mavety purchased land and started to plant vineyards in Okanagan Falls. These would, after some years of selling grapes to others, turn into Blue Mountain Vineyard. With her husband and her son Matt, Jane has turned the winery into a great success story. Turning out, amongst other wines, some of the best, if not the best Pinot Gris produced in Canada. Although Jane was a presence in the vineyard in the early days, when the winery flourished in the early nineties her marketing skills came to the fore, and she devoted herself very successfully to that side of the business.

A few years earlier, Marilyn VenturiSchultze and her husband fell in love with the Cowichan Valley on Vancouver Island and started their winery. What with Marilyn’s academic thrust — a degree in Microbiology — it meant that as well as producing some excellent still and sparkling wines, they are what I believe to be the only winery in Canada producing balsamic vinegars. Since they started in the Cowichan, other wineries have followed their lead. When I visited the Valley some years ago, there were five, but the number has now doubled to 10 or even more.

Returning to Niagara, we meet another significant woman in the industry. In the early 1970s, Donna Lailey left teaching to take over the family farm, and with

the support of husband David became a viticulturalist — and turned the property into one of the first vineyards supplying top quality grapes to the start-up wine industry. Tired of selling grapes to others, in 2000 Donna created Lailey Vineyards (certainly one of Niagara’s best wineries), where she and David continue to produce grapes for their own winemaker.

is this the golden age?

Beginning in the 1980s, women shaped the wine industry in ever more visible ways. First to arrive (or at least acknowledged to be a force) was Anne Sperling.

Many readers may not know that Anne first started to work on her winemaking skills in BC in 1984. She started at Andres in Port Moody, and then moved to Cedar Creek in Kelowna before relocating to Ontario in 1995. After some consulting,

Sandra Oldfield from tinhorn creek

she became winemaker for Martin Malivoire at his newly created winery on the Beamsville Bench, where she gained a reputation as she began to produce some spectacular wines. After Southbrook Vineyards moved to their Niagara-on-the-Lake site, they were able to obtain her services as their winemaker, a role she retains at present. Going full circle, Ann and her husband, Sperling Vineyards’ and fellow winemaker PeAnn Sperling ter Gamble, also recently opened Sterling Vineyards Winery in Kelowna, BC. And then there is Deborah Paskus. She the way in organic, pesticide-free farmburst onto the scene with her 1991 Temkin- ing for her estate fruit. Another woman Pascus Chardonnay, a wine some believe of wine (albeit not Canadian), noted is still the best Chardonnay ever made in wine writer Jancis Robinson placed Canada. One story has it that to convince Closson Chase Vineyards, under wineher friend Steven Temkin that great Char- maker Paskus, as one of the two best prodonnay can be made in Niagara, she bor- ducers in Ontario. I don’t know whether rowed money from all and sundry and pro- it was due to her influence or not, but ceeded to create the 1991 vintage. She paid according to the recent Wines of Ontario back her friends and investors with a case book, six of the County wineries have of the wine. Certainly one of the best wine female winemakers. That’s a far greater percentage than the Niagara region wininvestments in Canadian history.

Deborah continued in Niagara for eries can boast. some years, making wine at Malivoire, One winemaker who has not moved Thirty Bench and 13th Street before mov- to the County is Sue-Ann Staff, late of ing to Prince Edward County in 1999 as Pillitteri Estate where she started in the a partner in Closson Chase. Focusing on late 1990s. While there, she was awardChardonnay and Pinot Noir, she has led ed “winemaker of the year.” She then

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made wine for the financially troubled 20 Bees, and since 2008 has been making wine for John Howard at Megalomaniac Winery. Not content to make fine wine for others, however, Sue Ann has also recently created Staff Estate Winery in Jordan, featuring family owned vineyards.

what’s next? www.genuwinecellars.com

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5% OFF your online purchase

1-866-415-7181 24 // May/June 2011

The saga of this era’s great women winemakers doesn’t end there. In BC, Sandra Oldfield returned from getting her Masters of Encology at UC Davis. After gaining experience working at Rodney Strong and Piper Sonoma, she became winemaker for the start-up Tinhorn Creek winery in the South Okanagan in 1994. Since then, the winery has gone from good to better, recently releasing the Oldfield Series. These wines, her choice of the best wines of the vintage, have been gaining rave reviews, including from writer Natalie MacLean, yet another Canadian woman in the wine game.

Not only the West and Ontario can offer women winemakers. In 1990, Suzanne Corkum and her family opened SainteFamille Wines in Falmouth, Nova Scotia.

Now one of some 45 farm vineyards in the province, Sainte-Famille led the way in the early days. In 1985, well before the winery opened, Suzanne assisted the Grape Association with the creation of the Nova Scotia Farm Wines policy. Her Marechal Foch is an award winner, produced from some of the oldest vines in the province.

Tinhorn Creek’s Assistant winemaker Korol Kuklo

Also in the east, Janet Everett and her husband Jeff opened Magnetic Hill Winery outside Moncton, New Brunswick.

Janet shares winemaking duties with her husband. They originally featured only fruit wines, but in the last few years have branched out into the grape wine industry and have received various awards, including “Best of Show Wines,” at the New Brunswick Food and Wine Show.

Are these our real golden years?

It’s too soon to say, but with these great winemakers of the present still showing their stuff, how can it not be? And with new faces like Kathy Malone at Hillside, Shauna White at Ravine and Stacie Domic at Rockway, not to mention all those winemakers in Prince Edward County, it’s very likely we may not have seen (or sipped) anything yet. •

how’s your

mouthfeel?

by Tod Stewart

“The latest vintage of Domaine de la Bonne Bouche sets the lips tingling, as if tickled by the eyelashes of an angel as she flits on gossamer caresses to alight ethereally on the tongue. Resting her silky wings, she envelopes the palate in a cocoon of velvety, glycerol-induced unctuousness. Wrapped in her creamy, viscous robe, she perches plumply on the papillae, mustering the steely resolve required to resume her ultimately suicidal (though heart-arrestingly warm and generous) slink down … down ... down. Without gritty tannin, without harsh heat, without even a suggestion of chalky, er, chalkiness, she bids ‘adieu mon amour’ to my spent taste muscle and departs in a gush of crisp, crunchy, yet at once satiny tactile replay.”

illustrations: FRancesco Gallé, www.francescogalle.com

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Sick of this yet?

Me, too. So let’s get on with it.

Obviously Domaine de la Bonne Bouche is not a real wine, winery, or marketing gimmick (okay, hold that last possibility). Nor is the “reviewer” of the product a real “wine writer” (though I’m sure we’ve all read actual reviewers whose style is disturbingly close).

However, if you study this exercise in vinopomposity you’ll notice something interesting (other than the author’s need for psychological stabilization). Not once — once — were aromas and flavours ever mentioned. Coincidence? I think not (mostly ’cause I wrote it that way on purpose).

The point, insofar as there is one, is that there’s a dimension to wine (and spirits and beer and all the other goodies you cram into your gaping maw) that goes beyond smell and taste. It is the middle ground between light and shadow, between science and superstition, and it lies between the pit of man’s fears and the summit of his knowledge. This is the dimension of imagination.

It is an area which … Actually, it’s the dimension of the tactile, and it is the zone where those elements that give wine textures roam — the things that make them “silky” or “furry.” “Gritty” or “velvety.” “Round” or “sharp.”

A highly extracted Alsace Gewürztraminer can come off as almost oily on the palate. A brisk, unoaked Chablis can be steely.

A raw young Cabernet will be puckeringly astringent. These non-flavour components are responsible for what tasters generally call “mouthfeel.” When a wine has a particularly noteworthy mouthfeel you tend to resist the urge to swallow it right away.

Instead, you hold it in your mouth, roll it around, maybe even chew on it a bit before sending it on its way.

Some of you, perhaps a very few of you (okay, maybe none of you) care to know where these textural elements originate. Given that I fall into the last group, and I’m writing this, I’ll give it a brief once-over, then let the truly curious (and I’m using the word “curious” here in the nicest possible way) Google the night away (as if they’d have anything else to do with it). Ahem, anyway.

Rumour has it (or maybe it’s actually the truth, who knows) two French dudes named Semichon (which, translated, means “half chon” and shouldn’t be confused with Semicornichon, which means “half little pickle”) and Flanzy (whatever) suggested (to whom, nobody is sure) that substances called pectins produced tactile sensations in the mouth. (Actually, a fellow

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named von Follenberg discovered these things before S&F, but it’s harder to poke fun at his name.)

Pectins fall into the larger phylum of polysaccharides, and within this party of “Ps” reside a few interesting members, including Arabinogalactan proteins (AGPs, originating in an Arabic galaxy far, far away), Type II Rhamnogalacturonas (RG-IIs, sung, albeit with difficulty, to the tune of “My Sharona”) and Mannoproteins (MPs, typically found dozing in Parliament, but also, apparently, found in wine — or into wine, as the case may be).

Anyway, numerous tests concluded that these fine thingamajigs do, in fact, combine to alter the textural nuances of a wine. And efforts have been made by pointy-heads to analyze, categorize and compartmentalize tactile variants. The results, for good or ill, being “texture wheels” (similar to the oft-cited UC Davis “aroma wheel”).

So now we know what creates texture in wine. But, what causes texture to differ? The answer is found in both nature and nurture.

“I am feeling more and more as time goes on that the site is the leading determiner of texture,” says Paul Sloan. Sommelier-turned-vintner of Small Vines Wines, Inc. and Small Vines Viticulture, Inc., Sloan took his love of fine wine from serving it to sculpting it at his Sonoma-based winery. “Other aspects include clonal selection, hang time and the use and frequency of punch downs and pumpovers. The style or material of the fermenters also play a role in the texture; concrete and wood seem to bring more texture to the wine than stainless steel.”

David Ramey of Sonoma’s Ramey Wine Cellars notes that a wine’s texture is the result of numerous decisions made by the winemaker over the course of crafting a wine. “The harvest decision, tannin management in both red and white wines, lees contact and stirring (both of which depend on container size), oxidative handling, fining or lack thereof, and the care (or lack of ) with the filtration process” all combine to determine how a wine feels in the mouth.

“But how is this going to impress my dinner guests/date/ boss/Arabinogalactan-in-waiting?” you whine annoyingly. To which I answer, “All in good time, grasshopper.” Yet seeing as there’s no time like the present, here we go.

“I very much feel, having been a sommelier, that in the food and wine pairing world texture plays a huge role in the complex decision of which wines go with which foods,” admits Sloane.

The zesty, electric acidity and mild sweetness of a kabinett level German Riesling offers the perfect foil for a creamy/salty dish, while the cleansing sparkle of a fine glass of fizz drums down the oily character of smoked salmon. The drying astringency of an austere young Bordeaux can be quelled by the proteins in a rare steak. And, notes sommelier Jeremy Geyer of Toronto’s Centro Restaurant, “The tannin structure of a Bordeaux or a New World Meritage changes almost magically with age.”

Some, like Ramey, feel that the texture of a wine is the most important aspect of the whole experience. “From my perspective, it’s huge. I don’t care if a wine smells like apples, peaches or whatever, but I really care that it feels good in my mouth. Focusing excessively on a wine’s aroma is like focusing on cologne while making love: it’s not the main event.”

Speaking of making love, much as reading about it is no substitute for the real thing (so I’ve heard), reading about the textural nuances in a wine is nowhere close to experiencing them.

Here’s something you can try with minimal cash, fuss and planning that will show you how wine and food can both complement and contrast.

Get yourself a brisk, zesty, cool climate Sauvignon Blanc (Loire Valley, Niagara, New Zealand, etc.). Hit up the cheesemonger for a creamy young goat cheese and the fishmonger for a few fresh East Coast oysters.

Don’t mess with the purity of the oyster by adding gloopy condiments; knock it back au naturel on the half-shell and follow it with a gulp of wine. The bracing acidity of the wine marries nicely with the briny bivalve, creating a sensation of textural lightness. Now try the same routine with the cheese instead of the oyster. The tang of the young cheese matches the zippiness of the wine, but its palate-coating creaminess welcomes its cleansing quality. A great texture match on an entirely different level.

Writing about (or even describing) the aromas and flavours of wine is difficult enough. Trying to put into words the sublime tactile sensations they exhibit on the palate is even more daunting, probably because we are inclined to associate a texture with something we feel on our skin rather than in our mouth.

However, without the sensations of fullness, lightness, smoothness, harshness, roundness or aggressiveness (to name a few), wine would be missing that all-important third dimension.

The middle ground between light and shadow, between science and superstition … Don’t get me going. •

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What fa

into Gr ness?

by Carolyn Evans-hammond

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factors

reat-

We know it when we see it. That quality that makes people deeply and irresistibly cool/ sophisticated/beddable. It’s in the way they walk, talk, cross and uncross their legs. Audrey Hepburn had it, and Paris Hilton does not.

Don Draper has it. Don Cherry does not.

And so it is with wine. Don’t let the experts tell you “it’s what’s inside that counts.” That’s only part of the story. Great wines have just as much to do with labels, money, and cachet as the liquid itself.

Does price have any bearing on how good a wine tastes? The stern and scientific types at the Stanford School of Business and the Californian Institute of Technology put the question to the test. Using brain scans, they found people do prefer wines they think are more expensive. The study showed that, if a person is blind-tasting identical wines but is told one costs $5 and the other $45, then the latter triggers more physiological pleasure.

“Price is not just about inferences of quality, but it can actually affect real quality,” said Baba Shiv, the Stanford marketing professor who led the study. In other words, a higher price does indeed make a wine taste better, because we actually get a bigger pleasure dose if we think it’s more expensive.

Another study by the American Association of Wine Economists (yes, there is such an organization) shows that cheap wine might actually taste better most of the time when drinkers don’t know the price nor see the label. In a study involving more than 6,000 blind tastings of wines that ranged from a few bucks to $150 per bottle, people with no wine expertise preferred wines that cost less than $15, and even drinkers with wine knowledge only preferred the expensive stuff some of the time.

This is really not that surprising. What critics like doesn’t always appeal to the masses. Serve a $100-a-pop, manurenuanced Chambertin blind to a party of Malbec-loving wine

newbies, and I’m not convinced everyone would be happy. The same would hold true if restrained, petrol-scented Riesling was served to people who love fat, buttery Chardonnay. But what the study showed was that even experts preferred the cheap stuff much of the time when tasting blind. The study cited an $11 bottle of sparkling wine from Washington, Domaine Ste Michelle that was twice as popular as Dom Pérignon, which costs around $150 per bottle. It has to be said, Dom is an incredibly austere tipple.

And Oxford University backs up the theory that there’s more to fine wine than taste and smell. Researchers there showed people preferred the scent labelled “cheddar cheese” to that labelled “body odour” despite the two aromas being the same. The same placebo effect applies to wine labels.

And in case you need more evidence that cachet has something to do with how delicious a wine tastes, just watch the movie Bottleshock. This ridiculously mediocre film recreates the 1976 Judgement of Paris tasting when British wine merchant Steven Spurrier poured celebrated, top-tier French Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines alongside those from California. Many critics preferred the Californian wines to the top French ones, stunning the wine world and putting California on the fine wine map. This party game is now trotted out by overzealous producers all over the world who feel their wines are unloved.

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At the end of the day, blind tastings of New World lookalikes pitted against Old World classics that cost 10 times the price mean very little. People buy wine for more than just the flavour.

They buy it for how it makes them feel.

Moreover, the underpinnings of these tastings are inane — built on the flawed logic that just because one wine tastes better than another one day, it is intrinsically superior. Bullocks. Wine is a living thing that evolves and changes. Consistent excellence is the hallmark of great wines vintage in, vintage out for decades — not just during a sip’n’spit blip in time by a few select tongues.

Which brings me to the question I was pondering the other day: What really makes great wine great — as in one that fetches hundreds at auction? Sure, it’s got to be technically correct: well balanced, cleanly fruited, and appropriately structured. But it should also have finesse, complexity, and the ability to improve with time to have a shot at becoming iconic. Sophia Loren and Louis Roederer Cristal have it. Lindsay Lohan and Yellowtail do not.

Frankly, I’m not convinced it’s just about PR, Parker points, and price. Performance matters too. Great wines have solid track records confirmed by people who taste wine for a living — critics

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with good palates. And of course, a great wine is one that you like, assuming you’re not purchasing solely for investment purposes.

Not everyone is into aged vintage Champagne. But I certainly am. And a bottle of Louis Roederer Cristal 1996 would be worth every penny of its $300 price tag to those who can appreciate it.

Louis Roederer Cristal, the wine revered by connoisseurs for centuries, is a classic example of a great wine. It was first created in 1876 for the Tsar of Russia, Alexander II, who ordered it to be made in a clear bottle instead of the typical dark green one, with a flat bottom to ensure a bomb couldn’t be hidden inside. The Tsar feared assassination, which later became his fate.

Cristal was not commercially available until 1945, and since then it has been the darling of connoisseurs. Having tasted verticals of Cristal, I can also attest to the fact each vintage is stellar but slightly different — reflecting the variations in weather each year. And, in truth, one of the best wines I ever tasted was 1970 Cristal. In London. In 2003. Sublime.

Would it have been as delicious had I not known what it was?

Who knows. And to a certain extent, who cares.

Like Marlon Brando. •

2/16/11 10:28 AM

Prime example Best Recent Vintages of Louis Roederer Cristal 2004

Brilliant yellow colour displaying light amber nuances, combined with an ultra-fine, persistent, soft effervescence. There’s an intense, highly expressive bouquet on the first nose.

The aromatic elegance and precision of Chardonnay is apparent: white fruit, sweet pollen, fine citrus fruit and very pure minerality. After a few minutes, the aromas move on to more confit, lightly grilled hints. The bouquet is rich and sweet, almost generous, remaining precise and impeccably refined. The bite in the mouth is full and creamy, revealing an incredible concentration of juicy fruits: yellow peach, apricot, mango and others. This silky, meaty concentration, which is both dense and soft — and typical of great Pinot Noir — is immediately combined with a sophisticated touch of acidity, bringing the wine alive with minerality. The over-riding impression is one of a true harmony of flavours, senses and silky textures. Absolute sensuality.

2002

Brilliant yellow with light amber highlights. A beautiful mousse with fine cordons of persistent and regular bubbles. The nose is intense and delicate, revealing a clean and well-blended mixture of honey, cocoa, lightly toasted hazelnut, and candied citrus fruit aromas — without exuberance, but with luxurious simplicity. Then, on the palate, a savoury explosion of ripe fruit on the attack, revealing red fruit, white chocolate, caramel and Danish pastry, typical of Cristal. Silky, concentrated texture, leaning on intense, powerful and vinous structure, but maintaining refinement. The palate builds up to attain a delicious sensation of a well-blended harmony of flavours. A fresh finish with a hint of bitterness, making it almost crunchy.

2000

Sustained golden yellow tones shimmering with luminous green highlights and ultra-fine, energetic bubbles. Intense, precise, but exquisitely subtle nose, opening with dominant aromas of fresh almonds and sweetsmelling flowers, then revealing riper nuances of lush vine peaches, white chocolate, caramel and a sprinkling of lightly toasted hazelnuts. The attack on the palate is sensual and fleshy with an almost caressing mouthfeel. More mineral notes come through on the

mid-palate — testament to this Champagne’s deliberately low dosage — supported by a refreshing crispness that carries an impression of delicacy rather than strength. The overall effect is one of precise elegance, a wine perfectly poised between the structure of the Pinot Noir and the finesse of the Chardonnay, marrying roundness and vinosity with a sense of freshness and verve. The finish is long and deliciously refreshing, underscored by harmonious, lightly caramelized notes of the year’s great wines aged in wood.

1999

Yellow with burnished gold reflections. Particularly fine and consistent mousse. Opens with the youthful intensity of white flowers, citrus, red berries, toast, chocolate, wood, vine peaches and red berries, followed by warmer whiffs of toast, chocolate and wood. Then, the palate shows a mixture of ripe lush fruits (vine peaches) and toasty aromas plus dense, fleshy structure. Silky, massive texture on the mid-palate culminates in a glorious finish.

A smashing, powerful Cristal, with all the splendid maturity of the 1999 vintage.

1997

Yellow-green with fleeting glints of gold. On the nose, rich and intensely fruity, with a masterful balance of freshness

and maturity. Notes of citrus on a background of red berries, followed a few moments later by a subtle toastiness — plus warmer notes of baking (tarte tatin) and wood (almonds) thanks to fermentation in French oak barrels. On the palate, a rounded, vinous attack, but with all the delicacy and freshness that comes from a bouquet perfectly poised between youthfulness and maturity. An endless stream of fine, deliciously creamy bubbles fills the mouth with softness, the perfect overture to a finish of exquisite length and crispness. This is an elegant, stylish wine with a crisp delicacy, but ready to drink now.

1996

Mature yellow with greenorangey shades. Complete and mature with aromas of juicy fruits (white and yellow peaches, apricots) and a certain “sugariness” which reveals a powerful wine. A slight hint of brioche is beginning to appear, but it is the ripe fruit that really dominates the bouquet.

Then, a complete and full-bodied attack in the mouth with a powerful and weighty finish. The fine and rich bubbles bear testimony to a powerful wine. The whole concentration of the 1996 vintage emerges, with a weighty result that is nevertheless full of finesse and freshness. Its aftertaste is impressive.

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Northland. The word conjures up images of polar bears and parkas, doesn’t it? But, when you actually reach this point on the compass, you might find that you’re not exactly where you expected to be. Instead, you’ll be where Kiwis frolic around tall trees that lived with the dinosaurs. Northland is the northernmost wine region in New Zealand, and it is actually the hottest place in the country. It was here that the very first settlers laid anchor. It was also here that the country’s award-winning wine industry was born. Welcome to the land of tomorrow. | by Rosemary Mantini

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::::eat:::::

Claudia Tasker, Media Advisor at Tourism New Zealand, says, “Nowhere in Northland is far from the sea. Seafood is definitely the way to go here.” It turns out that one particularly iconic food experience is made-to-order fish and chips. That wasn’t much of a surprise to me. I always had the impression that New Zealand’s cuisine could be defined as a happy salute to an ever-present British heritage. Well, I have to admit that I was wrong. As if melt-in-your mouth seafood weren’t enough, Northland also boasts unique Maori dishes. You’ll be able to snap up specialties like Hangi (meat and vegetables cooked in an underground oven), Rewena (bread made from potatoes) and Paua Fritters (fried sea snail). Neighbouring Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, Japan and Vietnam have contributed their own ingredients and traditions to the mix, too. And those sheep … In Northland, like the rest of New Zealand, sheep outnumber people by about 13 to one. So, enjoy that juicy lamb chop and a few slices of sharp and tangy sheep’s milk cheese, too. The artisanal products emerging from Northland consistently bring home top awards.

eat here

4 1

claudia’s classic pavlova

Pavlova is a meringue baked to a marshmallowlike consistency and adorned with fresh fruit, whipped cream or ice cream. According to the Oxford English Dictionary, it was actually invented in New Zealand in honour of a Russian ballet dancer. No wonder it’s considered the country’s national dessert.

egg whites cup of granulated white sugar 1/2 tsp of vanilla essence 1 tsp of white vinegar 1 cup 35% cream, whipped Fresh fruit (kiwifruit, strawberries, raspberries)

1. Using an electric beater, beat egg whites until

stiff peaks form. Gradually add the sugar and beat well. Then beat in the vanilla essence and vinegar.

2. Cover a baking tray with parchment paper. Pile meringue mixture onto the tray and shape into a circle (about two inches high) pulling the edges up with a knife to square off the edges. Bake at 320°F for about 40 minutes, or until pavlova feels crisp on top. Turn oven off and leave pavlova in oven to cool. (It may crack on top but don’t worry — you will be covering this with cream). Cover with whipped cream; then top with fresh fruit. Cut into wedges and serve.

>D uke of Marlborough Hotel, Russel > Waikokopu Café, Paihia > Kamakura, Russel > Copthorne Hotel and Resort, Bay of Islands > The Mongonui Fish Shop, Far North

food fests

>S eptember: Taste Bay of Islands, Paihia > November: Savouring the Source, Waimate > February: Taste Northland, Whanegarei

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::drink::: Northland has always had wine in its soul.

More than 200 years ago, James Busby, a British Government Representative, planted vines and pressed the country’s first wine. Soon after, a missionary, Reverend Samuel Marsden, began his own vine and wine enterprise. Finally, Croatian settlers, experts themselves at making fortified wine, added their own skills to the mix. Were it not for these (and later) intrepid winemakers, the industry might never have become the going concern it is today.

Northland’s hot and wet climate makes farming tricky. It has a tendency to leave some grape varieties (and winemakers) feeling a tad stressed out. But Kiwis are nothing if not resourceful. First, they planted Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay, grapes that don’t mind the heat at all. Then, they adjusted their farming practices based on the land where the vines laid their roots: clay, clay-sand, sand or free-draining volcanic; all four types of soil can be found in the region’s 13,780 km area.

These days, they’ve set their sights on experimenting with other grape varieties, like Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Malbec.

try this

Taking part in a general tasting is a great way to get to know the wines of a particular area. Collect some of the wines listed here, and see if you can discern differences in colour, aroma and taste. Northland is the smallest wine region in New Zealand, consisting of about a dozen wineries situated near Kaitaia, Bay of Islands and Whangarei, Northland’s largest city.

34 // May/June 2011

red

>K arikari Estate Hell Hole 2008 > Omata Estate Merlot 2009 > Lochiel Estate Merlot/ Malbec 2008

white

>O kahu Chardonnay 2007 > Cottle Hill Sauvignon Blanc 2009 > Fat Pig Pinot Gris 2010

::::::live:::::: “Hang out with the locals, enjoy a barbecue with friends” says Tasker. It’s a great way to fully appreciate Northlanders’ warm and laid-back lifestyle. Lie on the beach for a while or go fishing and diving. The locals know that there’s little else better than catching your own fresh dinner. Relaxing with nature is the activity of choice here. Surrounded by a clean, sandy coastline, Northland is the place to see whales or swim with the dolphins.

Looking for something a little less aquatic? The Northern tip of New Zealand is

the place to hug the kauri, Earth’s most ancient trees. Tane Mahuta (Lord of the Forest) is the oldest of these. It stands 51 meters tall with a girth of almost 14 meters, and is thought to be between 1500 and 2000 years old. Want to go exploring? There are tour operators aplenty ready to help you commune with nature, travel the wine trail and tuck into the local fare. Northland is known as the “winterless North” because of its mild winters, but Tasker suggests that October to May is the best time to visit. •

packing tips >S unblock and hat > Shorts and sandals > Rain gear

what to do

>D olphin and whale watching at Ninety Mile Beach > Diving at the Poor Knights Marine Reserve > Hiking through the Bay of Islands

fun facts

>T here are no traffic lights or high rise buildings north of Whangarei. > Ninety Mile beach is actually only 55 miles long (88 km). > Twin Coast Discovery highway visits all the highlights on both the east and west coasts.

Stories abound that on a clear day, from the top of Sydney Harbour Bridge, you can see New Zealand — or from the 300-metre-plus Auckland Tower, the South Pole. Neither is true, but both (much like the fact that New Zealanders get to

experience tomorrow before anyone else in the world) bring folksy focus to a country that is a long plane ride from almost anywhere, but serves up treasures that are as unique as the difference between its North and South islands. |

by Duncan Holmes

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I work in an office tower in downtown Toronto with a liquor store at the foot of the elevator. This small but busy LCBO services the recreational needs of all the wildlife in the deepest remove of the concrete jungle: Grand Cru for the bankers, Yellow Tail for their assistants, and beer singles for the bike couriers. There is only one product that is impossible to find in this store: one-shot bottles of spirits, the sort that once beckoned from the bar fridge in your hotel room. “We’re the only liquor store in Ontario that doesn’t have them,” I was once told by one of the staff. “I bet you don’t know why.”

According to my informant, several years ago the office building’s property manager nagged the LCBO until they agreed to stop selling these one-shots here. Empty little bottles were appearing with startling predictability in the building’s sewage system, jamming the pipes and causing thousands of dollars in plumbing costs every year. It’s easy to surmise what was happening. Office workers were buying these bottles to fortify their coffee, but were unwilling to throw the empties in the trash, lest the boss spy them out.

The incriminating evidence was being smuggled into the stalls and flushed down the toilet.

There are many words for this clandestine activity: spiking your coffee, doctoring it, or even (to borrow the Italian phrase) correcting it. But my favourite term is “Irishing up” the coffee. The phrase “Irishing up” sounds like it might be a racial slur, a point of national pride, or both. In fact, it seems to derive from Irish Coffee — a blend of coffee, heavy cream and Irish whiskey that was made famous in the USA by a San Francisco journalist who convinced a local pub, the Buena Vista, to add it to their menu. There’s a plaque outside the Buena Vista to this day, commemorating the first Irish Coffee on American soil — served on November 10, 1952. In the last 60 years, this drink has so permeated North American culture that it’s changed our language, enriched our dessert courses, and endangered our plumbing.

Get your irish up

by Matthew Sullivan

Ireland is the spiritual home of whiskey — in fact, the word whiskey comes from the Gaelic word for “water of life.” For those who are new to Irish whiskey, it’s best to think of it as close cousin of Scotch whisky (the Scots removed the “e,” presumably as a cost-cutting measure). Both Scotch and Irish whiskey are rich and textured, with a tendency to be less sugary than Bourbon and more complex than Canadian rye. Both come in blended varieties (made from malt whiskies, grain whiskies and other additives that have been blended together to form a consistent taste year after year) or single malts (which are made from pure malted barley made at a single distillery).

Despite these similarities, Scotch and Irish whiskey part in a number of important ways. Scotch is generally distilled two times, while even the humblest Irish whiskey is usually triple distilled. This gives the Irish an extra layer of refinement, resulting in a smoother, less biting character. The classic example of this style is Bushmills Black Bush ($36.95), which offers a full but surprisingly soft palate of fudge, fig and sherry-like notes. If you like your whiskey’s roar balanced with a touch of sweetness, it is difficult to find a better value in a blended whiskey.

Of course, the very best Scotch and Irish whiskeys are made with 100 per cent pure barley, as opposed to a blend involving lighter grains. Typically, this barley is malted — that is, exposed to moisture and allowed to germinate. Malting encourages the development of enzymes, which convert the starches in the barley into sugar, priming it for fermentation. The germination is halted by heating the cereal. In Scotland, the barley is often dried using peat fires, infusing the whisky with the mossy and smoky character that reaches its apogée in Islay Scotch. However, peat is very rarely used in Ireland’s kilns, resulting in a gentler and more mellow profile for its whiskeys.

There are exceptions to this rule. Indeed, in the 19th century, peat was a common fuel for the kilns on both sides of the North Channel, so there’s nothing inauthentic about a peated Irish whiskey. The Inishown Peated Blend ($34.95) is a fine example of this retro style. The peat is applied judiciously to produce an unctuous, dense and complex treat. The apricot fruitiness still shines through, making this a well-rounded whiskey at a hospitable price.

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Connemara Peated Single Malt ($54.95) The nose on this spectacular whiskey will fool you — it comes on aggressively with heavy notes of pine, gun smoke and lavender. However, the palate is mellow and earthy. Flavours of toasted cereal, dried apple and ginger deliciously linger into a long finish.

Locke’s 8 Year Old Single Malt ($54.95) This pure pot still whiskey is made in a traditional Irish mould: spicy, rich and thickened with a hint of sweetness. Despite its youth, its flavours are well developed and complex: the fruity core is embellished by pepper and vanilla. The finish reveals a hint of peat mixed with walnuts and cedar.

Tullamore Dew 12 Year Old Special Reserve ($44.95) Tullamore Dew’s Special Reserve is a feathery and fragrant whiskey with notes of heather and candied ginger. Although it’s aged in Bourbon and oloroso sherry casks, the predominance of grain whiskey makes it light to the point of insubstantiality. Best as an aperitif.

Jameson 12 Year Old Special Reserve ($44.95) For a little extra money, this bottle gives you a huge improvement on Jameson’s entry-level Irish whiskey. A complex and almost animalistic nose ushers in a palate with authentic notes of sherry: sandalwood, leather and orange rind. This is a sweaty, leathery delight.

38 // May/June 2011

Ireland also has a distinctive style of whiskey unlike anything found in Scotland or anywhere else. “Pure pot still whiskey” is made in a traditional pot still, rather than the more modern continuous still that most whiskey-makers use to produce blended whiskey. Like a single malt Scotch, pure pot still whiskey is made from 100 per cent barley, but unlike Scotch, some of the barley is usually left unmalted. Using this “green” barley is unique to Ireland, and it gives the whiskey a distinctively spicy character that aficionados call the true taste of the island.

Redbreast 12 Year Old ($44.95) is the Irish whiskey that almost single-handedly revived the tradition of pure pot still whiskey. This wildly popular brand has been winning awards and critical accolades since the Irish Distillers conglomerate launched it in the 1990s. Redbreast is matured for a minimum of 12 years in sherry and Bourbon barrels, giving it a satiny undertone of vanilla. Notwithstanding the oak aging, the palate is clean and light. Vibrant notes of green apple and tangerine sparkle within the resinous bouquet. This delicate composition is for those who prize elegance above adrenaline.

Like so much about Ireland, Irish whiskey is imbued with the flavour of heartbreak. “I am fascinated but frustrated by the history of Irish whiskey,” Colum Egan, the Master Distiller at Bushmills told me.” In the mid- to late-1800s Irish whiskey was

the drink of choice in many countries across the globe. There were hundreds of distilleries operational in Ireland, many of which were family-owned. However, many catastrophic events culminated in the closure of most of these distilleries. Prohibition, he said, “proved to be the final straw. Because many of the distilleries were small, family-run … they were in no position to survive. Today there are only two distilleries to survive from this period: Bushmills and Midleton Distillery.”

While Irish whiskey foundered, the Scots elegantly adapted to the changes in the liquor industry by smart mergers, a reliance on cheap blends, and then the marketing coup of the century: single malt Scotch. However, things finally seem to be lightening up for Ireland. In the last few years, sales of Irish whiskey have rocketed, and big brands like Jamesons and Bushmills are doubling or tripling their production.

This is partially a result of the uniformly fine quality of Irish whiskey. Although there are only a handful of distillers on the Island, those that remain have a palpable dedication to their craft. However, Irish whiskey also seems to be in the right place at the right time. The traditionally smooth character of Irish whiskey places it in a great position to capture a younger demographic. As well, its Goldilocks-like moderation — sweeter and less medicinal than Scotch, but drier than Bourbon — means

AGENCE DE VOYAGES W. H. HENRY INC.

TRAVEL AGENTS

that it is ideally suited to cocktails, which are the Next Big Thing in the world of wine and spirits.

At Toronto’s leading cocktail lounge, Barchef, one of the most popular drinks is the Dublin. As with all their cocktails, this is a house recipe: 1.5 ounces of Jamesons Irish Whiskey, 0.5 ounces of Cynar (an Italian artichoke-based bitter), 0.5 ounces of sweet Vermouth and 0.5 ounces of vanilla simple syrup. Stir with ice and orange rind, then strain and serve with a sprinkle of cinnamon. Frankie Solarik, Barchef’s executive mixologist, told me to use Jamesons because it’s sweeter on the palate and works better with the orange flavours. He thoughtfully added, “And Jamesons has a nostalgic essence to it.”

Although I love all Irish whiskeys for their nostalgic essence, it is always Bushmills Black Bush to which I return. Once, I was castigated for this by a friend of mine who also happens to have Irish roots: “You should be drinking Jamesons,” he said with a raised eyebrow. “Bushmills is the drink of the Protestant North.”

I decided to ask Colum Egan what he thought. “Unusual, but I only seem to encounter this misconception in North America,” he said, “For me, whiskey does not have a religion, and, if anything, it actually brings people from all types of backgrounds closer together.” I’ll attest to that: it’s hard to be anti-social when drinking Irish. That’s why it goes into my morning coffee. •

DISCOVER CROATIA September 26 – October 6, 2011

fEATuRIng ThE DALMATIAn COAST AnD SLOVEnIA

• Visit two of Europe’s most beautiful countries: Croatia and Slovenia.

• Relax for two nights by the seaside in Opatija, Croatia’s “Riviera”.

• Discover the magnificence of the ancient Roman Palace of Diocletian.

• Walk in the footsteps of Marco Polo as you explore the medieval city of Korcula.

• Experience the wonder of 16 cascading lakes at Croatia’s Plitvice National Park.

• Spend two nights in Dubrovnik, the “Pearl of the Adriatic”.

Price per person based on double occupancy including airfare from Montreal $3,599.00.

Air taxes and fees/surcharges of $170.00 not included (subject to increase until paid in full)

For more inFormation PLeaSe CaLL DaPHne at 514.369.3300 • 1.800.361.9421 or emaiL daphchin@yahoo.com Wh_Henry AD_Croatia.indd 1

9/9/10 9:45:41 PM

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Must try

by Rosemary Mantini

//harvesting liquid gold

I had the opportunity recently to talk with Niki Tsourounakis of Amphora, a family-owned company that produces and imports its own high quality extra virgin olive oil. She is passionate about healthy, fantastic tasting food and argues that unadulterated olive oil is what makes a good dining experience great.

Personally speaking, I’d say that enjoying fresh food in warm and sunny Greece helps too. But, I digress.

Niki explains that the idea to develop Amphora emerged from a family trip to her father’s hometown of Vlatos. Located in Chania, Crete, Niki was feasting on fresh, delicious food drizzled with her family’s own organic extra virgin olive oil, she says, when she realized that people beyond her family would truly love to experience food the way she always has.

Not just for frying or drizzling over salad greens, high quality extra virgin olive oil is great on popcorn and in baked goods (instead of butter).

Read on to find out how Niki and her family produce olive oil in its purest form.

40 // May/June 2011

Tell me about how Amphora came into being?

I asked myself why we were selling the olive oil to larger companies who were then compromising the quality by blending it with lower quality oils, and sometimes not even olive oil. The idea of exporting the olive oil to Canada as is, and marketing it as 100% extra virgin, and certified organic really appealed to me. After all, it’s the way I love to eat and I knew it was important to make great food products available to people here, especially quality olive oil.

The Vlatos olive trees are completely family owned and run. We oversee everything from the harvest, picking, production, and bottling of the olive oil. This way we can ensure we know exactly what is inside the bottle.

My mother is from the mainland, a beautiful town called Mavromati, and my father was born and raised in the town of Vlatos. This is where the olive trees are and have been in our family for centuries.

Why do you use only olives grown in the village of Vlatos?

They’re the only ones we can guarantee are organic. Our goal is not to mass produce oil, but to share our harvest.

We want as many people as possible to experience this delicious and nutritious olive oil. Also, we wanted to keep it a single estate, which is important to us, as we are very proud of our harvest.

Vlatos olive oil only uses Tsounati olives. How would you describe the taste of those olives vs other kinds of olives used to make oil?

The Tsounati olive produces an olive oil that is very light and fruity, with a buttery finish. Olive oil is like wine and will taste differently depending on which variety is chosen. …… For some tips on how to taste olive oil and how to store the oil properly visit www.tidingsmag.com/eats/vlatos-greekolive-oil.html. •

Sunrise by gurvinder Bhatia

Although wine has been produced in Israel for over 4000 years, it is only in the last decade that the country’s wines have started to receive international recognition.

The image of Israeli wine has long been one of syrupysweet kosher wines used primarily for Jewish ritual. But the new generation of winemaker is concerned with producing quality, regardless of whether or not the wines are designated as kosher. In fact, there seems to be little consensus among producers as to what constitutes a true kosher wine (but that is an entirely different article all on its own).

The history of Israeli wine dates back to biblical times. But winemaking essentially ceased for 1200 years as Muslim leaders banned alcohol following the rise of Islam in the 7th century. It wasn’t until the late 19th century that wine production resumed through the efforts of Baron Edmond de Rothschild, who established what would become the Carmel Winery. Despite this, there was little evolution or recognition for Israeli wines over the subsequent century beyond use for religious purposes.

It wasn’t until the 1970s that the seeds for a true rebirth of the Israeli wine industry were planted with the recognition of the Golan Heights and Upper Galilee as quality grape growing regions. Today, the state of the country’s wine revolution is reminiscent of Chile or the Okanagan in the early 1990s. There are some quality wines being produced, but the industry is clearly in its infancy with respect to fully understanding the particulars of

the terroir and microclimates and, as a result, what grapes grow best in what areas. And most winemakers are still finding their way with respect to the styles of wine they produce, think they should produce, want to produce, and should produce.

This was clearly evident at our inaugural tasting of boutique wines at the beautiful and cosy Pausa Inn located in the hills of the scenic Upper Galilee. The Pausa Inn is operated by Einat and Avigdor Rothem, leaders in the evolution of the Israeli food industry and the “eat local” movement. The Rothems established a Slow Food chapter, the largest in Israel, in the Upper Galilee. Their support extends to local wine producers. On the occasion of our visit, a tour comprised of international wine and food journalists, the Rothems invited four local winemakers to show their wines alongside the outstanding feast they prepared with locally raised products.

First up was Gil Hershkowiz of the Stern Winery, who presented their Rotem 2008. The wine is primarily a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with small amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. It was a little one dimensional with dried out fruit, and somewhat rough on the finish.

Next up was the Galileo Cabernet Sauvignon 2007. The wine was green, green and more green, which was not surprising given that the winemaker informed us that they purchased their

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Agur Winery owner Shuki Yashuv

grapes from growers over whom they have little control, thus the quality of the grapes being used is not the best. A striking contrast followed with a Bordeaux blend from the Pelter Winery.

Tal Pelters I 2008 showed bright ripe fruit flavours, a nice approachability and good structure. The wine bordered on being overdone, but Pelter did study winemaking in Australia.

Finally, Oren Kedem presented his father’s Assaf Shiraz 2007, which possessed aromas and flavours of black cherries, plums and a touch of spice. The alcohol was a little aggressive, but the wine was quite drinkable nonetheless. Even better was the Assaf Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 with its black cherry and black currant character, soft tannins, and firm underlying structure.

I was a little surprised that the bottles from these boutique wineries were not better. That is until we were told that boutique wineries were often started by people as hobbies, regardless of their level (if any) of grape growing or wine producing experience. Israeli wine critic Daniel Rogov wrote in the Jewish Virtual Library that while four of five of the true boutique wineries are producing wines of great charm, sophistication and interest, others are producing wines that range in quality from the out-and-out banal to the sometimes good, depending not so much on the quality of the harvest but on the talents of those who have chosen to call themselves winemakers. This explained a lot, and made more sense over the course of the next several days. Rogov should have added that price is not necessarily directly correlated with quality.

42 // May/June 2011

Our exploration of the wines of the Upper Galilee continued with a visit to the Kadesh Valleys Ramot Naftaly Winery, which has been producing wine since 2003. The vineyards are at an elevation of 400 metres with terra rosa soils and considerable variation between day and night temperatures — all good conditions for growing quality grapes. The Barbera 2007 showed nice varietal character and pleasant acidity, and the Petit Verdot 2008 was bright and vibrant with ripe, juicy fruit, and gripping tannins. The wines composed of Bordeaux varietals, though, were quite green, herbaceous and lacked complexity.

Overall, there was a considerable amount of volatile acidity in the wines, which would indicate some issues in the fermentation or storage of the wines.

Another Barbera that was quite impressive was the Shvo Vineyards Rosé 2009, which was clean and fresh with ripe cherry and raspberry flavours, a hint of spice, nice balance and a soft, lingering finish. This, along with several other wonderful wines, were introduced to us by Erez Komarovsky, Israel’s most influential chef. He obviously also knows his wine.

We continued on to the winery responsible for initiating modern wine production in Israel. In 1972, oenologist Cornelius Ough from University of California at Davis visited Israel and identified the Golan Heights as ideal for producing quality grapes due to its volcanic soil, altitude and water sources.

The Golan Heights Winery was established in 1983 by a cooperative of eight Israeli communities. It has received international recognition for its wines, produced with significant global cooperation including from current American-born winemaker Victor Schoenfeld.

As with most large wineries, the wines ranged from very good to somewhat generic. Standouts included the Gamla Brut, a methode traditionelle sparkling composed of Pinot and Chardonnay that was bright, fresh and delicate with notes of citrus, apple, tropical fruit and strawberries. Both the Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 and 2007 were also well made, with the 2006 showing lots of rich dark fruit and a hint of eucalyptus, while the 2007 had more juicy tannins and a touch of spice. The Merlot and Chardonnay lacked the same elegance and appeared subject to much heavier handed oak treatments, reminiscent of 1990s California and Australia.

From the Golan Heights we travelled to the Judean Hills, the mountain range where Jerusalem is located. While the wineries in the Upper Galilee may be better known and receive more accolades, the wineries of the Judean Hills appear to be leading the way with respect to vineyard management and quality.

Chef Erez Komarovsky shares the delicious Shvo Vineyards Rose 2009

Our visit to the Tzora Winery was a clear representation of the issues facing the country’s wine industry as a whole. Unlike most Israeli wineries, Tzora owns the majority of their vineyards, thus exercising greater control over the quality of their grapes. And the quality of the grapes was clearly evident in their Neve Ilan Chardonnay 2009 ($23), Shoresh (90 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 10 per cent Syrah) 2008, and Misty Hills (70 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 30 per cent Syrah) 2007. The issue was the heavy-handed oak treatments that masked both the fruit and any sense of terroir the wines may have had.

Tzora’s marketing manager and winemaker claim to be creating wines with a sense of place that reflect the quality and diversity of their vineyards. Instead, they are producing over-manipulated wines that are doing a disservice to the quality of the fruit that is being achieved in the vineyard. After some pressing, the marketing manager finally did admit that they want their wines to appeal to the mass consumer, an objective that is clearly contrary to their “wines with a sense of place “message. The only wine that surprisingly did not follow this pattern was the Shoresh Or 2008 late harvest Gewürztraminer, which showed citrus peel, spice and honey with great balance of sweetness and acidity.

The last two wineries of the trip showed the greatest promise.

Agur Winery’s owner, Shuki Yashuv, is a character, but a great ambassador for the Israeli wine industry. He understands that wineries of the Judean Hills need to work together as a region to improve, particularly if they want to be respected internationally.

A former filmmaker, Zeev Dunia, owner of the SeaHorse Winery, fell in love with winemaking while making a film on the subject. He has followed the exact path that all winemakers/

winery owners should follow in a country whose wine industry is so young. Dunia’s philosophy is to take what Mother Nature has given him and reflect that in the bottle. He has travelled to numerous wine producing regions around the world, spoken and studied with winemakers and vineyard managers, and learned what he needed to learn in order to apply his knowledge to his own terroir. The result is Israel’s best wine.

Dunia’s James Chenin Blanc 2009 with its aromatics and fresh minerality; the elegant, silky and spicy Romain GSM 2008; the dense, concentrated berry-flavoured, firmly structured Antoine Syrah 2007; the superbly spicy, bright Lennon Zinfandel 2008; and the ripe, firm, lush, and spicy Munch Petite Syrah 2009 barrel sample all showed great balance, elegance and a clear understanding of allowing the quality of the fruit to express itself.

Others may have talked the talk with respect to producing wines reflecting their terroir, but Dunia is walking the walk, and every wine producer in Israel should be following his example.

The Israeli wine industry is clearly in its infancy. It faces many issues to growth, including low domestic wine consumption; an underdeveloped domestic wine culture; threat of cultural, political and religious conflict; border disputes; an imbalance in the pricequality ratio; and an international perception of producing sweet kosher wines. The passion exists, but producers need to follow the model of winemakers such as Zeev Dunia, who are planting grapes appropriate for their vineyard sites and making wines of character that reflect their terroir. Wine production in Israel may have started thousands of years ago, but it is the progress its industry makes over the next decade that will determine the country’s image and level of success in the global wine market. •

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pop, pop. fizz, fizz.

by Michael Pinkus

Oh what a relief it is ... Sure, it’s a bastardization of the AlkaSeltzer slogan, but in truth it could be just as easily used for a bottle of sparkling wine as it is for a heartburn remedy. Used on special occasions, the pop of a bottle of bubbly brings joy to the hearts of many — not to mention relief and happiness. Now, much of the stuff from Champagne can cost you an arm or a leg (sometimes both), but the Italian version, Prosecco, is both a thrill and a bargain at the same time, which should bring happiness and joy to the pocketbook as well as the palate.

But Prosecco is a misunderstood fizz, especially recently. As of 2009 this Italian bubble has been elevated from simple IGT (in essence the step up from Vino di Tavola) to DOC status, providing stricter controls over production and better guarantee to the consumer as to its origin and quality. To further muddy the waters, a sub-region called Conegliano Valdobbiadene, which is considered the top tier of the Prosecco pyramid, was given DOCG status (the highest level attainable under Italian wine law). It is a region located in the Veneto, 50 km from Venice in the Province of Treviso and situated (oddly enough) between the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene. The more generalized Prosecco region can be found in Northeastern Italy in the regions of Friuli Venezia Giulia and Veneto.

There is much to understand about Prosecco, so let’s start with the basics. First thing to know is that Prosecco is made in three distinct styles: Brut (the popular international version), Extra-Dry (the traditional version) and Dry (the sweetest and least common version). These varities are similar to their French counterparts, and are based on the residual sugar left behind in the wine: anywhere from 0-12 grams per litre (g/l) in Brut to 1732 g/l in the Dry version.

44 // May/June 2011

Prosecco is made using the Glera grape, also know as Prosecco. But while Prosecco (the wine) is made using Prosecco (the grape), there are also three other indigenous varieties and two international varieties permitted (up to 15 per cent) in the making of the wine. The international grapes are household names to us all: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. But the other three are quite foreign: Verdiso, Perera and Bianchetta. Verdiso adds acidity and zestiness, Perera enhances the aromatics (the name comes from its distinctive taste, which is reminiscent of pears), and Bianchetta aids in mellowing the wine, especially in cooler vintages due to its tendency to ripen earlier.

Unlike Champagne, which gains its bubble from a secondary fermentation in bottle, Prosecco is made in the Charmat method, or as the Italians call it, “The Italian Method.” Grapes are handpicked, and a maximum of 70 litres of wine can be pressed off from 100 kg of grapes. The juices from each grape variety are fermented separately and then blended for the taste profile the producer is looking for. Then they are put into a pressurized tank with sugar and yeast to create the secondary fermentation, which causes the bubbles we all know and love. This can take up to 30 days and helps to preserve the fresh fruit and floral nuances found in Prosecco. The wine is bottled, and then aged a further 30 days before release.

It’s that fruity and floral feature that makes Prosecco so distinctive, so unique and yet so accessible. The way it’s made preserves the fruit character, which is not possible in the more traditional method, with its elongated maturation time in bottle.

The next time you reach for bubbles think of Prosecco. You can pick up three or four bottles for the price of one Champagne — now that’s a party.

Villa Sandi NV Prosecco Spumante Extra Dry Very fruit driven, and as an added bonus, really good acidity on the finish. Very refreshing, or as I like to think of it: tingly and tasty.

Le Bertole di Bertolini Valdobbiadene Spumante Dry Superiore DOCG 2009 Made from 100% Prosecco, the nose is subtly peared while the palate is silky and sweet. Should pair well with pastry-based desserts.

Nino Franco Brut Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG 2008 A fresh, floral and fruity wine made from 100% Prosecco (Glera). The nose is slightly perfumed, while the palate doles out a bready, apple skin and fresh fruit flavour, nice mousse with a crisp lemon pith finish.

Santa Margherita NV Brut Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore From the house that brings you the best selling Pinot Grigio in Ontario comes this delightful fizz that’s light and fruity with lemon and apple notes.

An easy sipper. tidingsmag.com

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Ruggeiri Brut Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG 2009, Vecchie Viti Millesimato

This bubbly incorporates all four of the Prosecco grapes allowed (Glera, Verdiso, Bianchetta, Perera), though the last three only make up 10% of the blend (by law they can only make up a maximum of 15%). The nose is wonderfully perfumed while the palate adds in the fruit of peach and sweet apple.

Bottega NV Vino dei Poeti Brut Prosecco

This one rings my bell every time I taste it. Light and fruity with lemon and apple notes, slight hint of sweetness with a lingering finish. This is a dangerous bubble. Two glasses went down way too easily (thank goodness its only 11% alcohol and I was staying home) — delightfully playful.

Toffoli Prosecco Superiore di Conegliano e Valdobbiadene Spumante Extra Dry 2009, Rive di Refrontolo

This is “Rive” Prosecco, which means the grapes come from a single commune or village, showing the terroir. This one is lovely on the nose with apples and Bartlett pears, but it’s on the palate where it becomes even more fascinating. Floral, exotic fruit, banana, pear, hints of lemon, a touch of honey which gives it a delicate sweetness, and acidity which evens everything out nicely. Delicious, fun and lively, a real party starter.

Bortolin Angelo Spumanti Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry DOCG 2009

The aroma of this bubbly just jumps out of the glass: pear, apple skin, lemonade, and hints of mineral; very pretty, very inviting.

The palate delivers white fruit up front with a fresh bread middle and touch of sweetness on the finish. Great length, which keeps you coming back for more.

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Bisol Desiderio & Figli Bisol Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG 2009

The “Cartizze” is a micro area of the Prosecco region: it measures a mere 106 hectares in size, and is located in the commune of Valdobbiadene. It is highly coveted for its fruit to such an extent that the average size of a plot is about 1 hectare in total (at last count there were about 107 producers). These wines are all made in the Dry style, but aren’t overly sweet.

There’s a delicacy of fruit and mineral purity here with banana and exotic fruit on the palate. Sure there’s a sweetness here, but it is balanced very well with the acidity. The length on the finish is so precise that you forgive and forget about the sweetness and concentrate on the deliciousness of this wine.

This is special occasion Prosecco at its best.

Astoria NV Prosecco Extra Dry

This one is all fruit: apple and pear aromas that follow onto the palate, then carry through the mouth on a river of bubbles across the tongue.

Vinicole Tombaco NV Prosecco

Simple, but fresh and fruity, just like Prosecco is supposed to be — so how can you fault it for being what it is. Some will say that tiramisu is the dessert for this sparkling but there is nothing like a slice of slick almond cake to punch out the fruit.

Bolla Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore

Fresh green apple and sweet lemon drop on the nose; the palate is toasty and tasty with lovely apple, lemon and hazelnut nuances. …… These wines have not been priced yet for Canada. Visit your local liquor board web site for more information. •

After dinner

by jonathan Smithe

//crazy ideas

This all started quite innocently. While looking into an interesting ice cream recipe to make, we decided to ask a question. The request went out on Twitter, “What is the craziest flavour of ice cream you can think of?”

We started the conversation with olive oil, lemon and basil. That didn’t seem to be crazy enough. Someone suggested foie gras. Now we are talking. A twitter request came in — wnoonthego said “have had the goat cheese and fig, as well; but foie gras ... I think you’re onto something there -PUULease keep me posted :)” The ball was rolling. People started coming in with more and more suggestions — blue cheese, castor oil, Dr Pepper, etc.

As the conversation rolled on the idea of a blue cheese ice cream started to creep up more and more. And we had a winner. So here is our take on a twitter sourced recipe.

Several kinds of blue cheese can be used for this recipe. Stilton, roquefort, gorgonzola — you name it.

When testing we used the Bleu Bénédictin from Quebec. It had a light saltiness that didn’t overpower.

Blue and Walnut ice cream 3/4 cup blue cheese, crumbled 1 1 4

3/4 1 2

cup milk cup 10% cream egg yolks cup sugar tbsp lemon juice tbsp walnuts, crushed

1. Cook the milk and cream over medium-low heat until heated through.

2. While milk/cream is heating, whisk egg yolks and sugar until light and fluffy.

3. Put about 1/2 of the crumbled cheese into a mixing bowl and pour the hot milk/cream mixture over the

cheese, add the lemon juice and whisk until everything is fully dissolved.

4. Temper the egg mixture with a bit of warm milk. Stir the tempered egg and sugar mixture into the cream on low heat until thick and coating the back of a spoon. Chill overnight, or at least four hours.

5. Take out your ice cream maker. Make the ice cream according to the instructions. About 5 minutes before the ice cream is ready add the rest of the blue cheese chunks. Let the machine take care of the rest.

6. Place the finished ice cream in an airtight container and freeze for at least 4 hours. •

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Lone

by John Lee

star After fully exploring Austin’s quirky charms — including a kick-ass live music scene and a lip-smacking street food culture that’s arguably North America’s finest — it was time for a long, leisurely drink. But rather than sticking around in the dusty, sun-baked Texas capital, I weaved 125 kilometres westward (along with a designated driver buddy) to check out the small-town charms of Fredericksburg.

A picture-postcard hamlet of brightly painted century-old buildings and chatty independent emporiums, Fredericksburg is a favourite weekend escape for big city Texans. They come for the low-key pace, bucolic ranchland scenery and friendly locals who still smile when passing you on the covered, flower-

48 // May/June 2011

lined sidewalks. And while they’re here, visitors usually indulge in a local tipple or two as well.

The Lone Star State is the fifth-largest wine maker in the US by volume, and it’s also one of the oldest: Spanish missionaries planted the first vines here in 1662. But rather than criss-crossing the sprawling region in search of a drink, basing yourself in Fredericksburg — part of the wider Texas Hill Country wine region — offers easy access to a dozen or so wineries.

Each has a cozy, laid-back approach that’s far from the slick, over-crowded feel of larger vineyard regions.

If you want to mix it up, the town also has a celebrated microbrewery that echoes the best in old-school German beer halls, a reminder that Teutonic settlers founded

this area in 1846. There’s also a recently built distillery producing bourbon, the signature American elixir usually associated with Kentucky. And, if you have a sweet tooth, the local chocolate maker has mastered the art of encasing all kinds of booze in dainty, mouth-watering bonbons.

In fact, it’s easy to forget Prohibition ever happened in this part of the world.

With a languid long weekend planned, I drop my bags at one of the town’s small hotels and hit the road: one particular road, US Highway 290 to be exact. Like a gently curving vine, it handily links the region’s main wineries.

First up is Pedernales Cellars, just east of Fredericksburg. Centred on a renovated ranch building, it crests a gentle, grasscovered slope studded with oak trees.

A few minutes’ drive away, the terracotta-roofed Tuscan-style villa of Grape Creek Vineyards is one of the region’s most attractive wineries. But it’s not just about looks here. “We have a very relaxed atmosphere that keeps people coming back,” says chatty tasting room manager Moriah Schumann. “I think that’s the same with all the wineries around here: we’re Texans, so we’re warm and welcoming and we’re certainly not snobbish,” she adds with a wide grin.

Leaning against the tasting bar, under a vaulted wood ceiling, I savour a six-sample array of Grape Creek treats (US$10, glass included), quickly latching onto the velvety Bellissimo — a Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon blend. I’m also surprised by the Viognier, a delicate, flowery tipple that’s well worth its US$16.95 bottle price. The Grape Creek version of port also tickles my palate: it’s a deep fruit and nut mélange that reminds me of Christmas.

“There’s a long history of winemaking in Texas, but Prohibition virtually killed it off,” says Pedernales winemaker David Kuhlken after strolling out to greet me in front of the property. “Most of the wineries operating now opened in the 1990s.

They started as a sideline for tourists, but now they’ve become a viable sector in their own right,” he adds, noting that producers mostly sell directly to winery visitors or to area restaurants with a penchant for local flavours.

Inside the sunny, wood-lined tasting room, Kuhlken explains that visitors often come for the afternoon. They’ll buy a bottle and bring a picnic or pick up some cheese and charcuterie from the on-site shop. Then they’ll sit in the shade of a tree to drink in the panoramic views.

But first, they’ll start with some samples — a nine-wine tasting here is US$12.95, which includes a souvenir glass. “Tempranillo is our top-seller.

It’s one of the main reds in this region.

Merlot is also a big one,” says Kuhlken.

“Many local vineyards like to experiment with hot weather varietals, but whites are not as common in the Hill Country — except for Viognier.”

Sipping his wares, it’s easy to see why the full-bodied Tempranillo 2008, with its rich black cherry base, is a favourite. But the light and fruity Garnacha Rosé also proves to be a perfect summer sip with its mild pear and apricot notes. Most bottles are under US$30 — the Garnacha is a tempting US$12.99 — so it’s easy to persuade yourself to pack one for the road.

Back in town, I weave between the Main Street shops before spending an hour at the surprisingly large National Museum of the Pacific War, a sobering retelling of part of America’s World War Two history focusing strongly on the human stories from both sides. I also stumble on Chocolat, a quarter-century-old confectionary store with a line of wine and liquor shots encased in sugar shells and dark chocolate.

“It’s a real chemistry lesson, because some alcohols work better than others,” says Lecia Duke, the store’s chief chocolate maker. “The Sam Houston bourbon and Irish cream liqueur are the most popular, and the oaky red wines work really well, too. We’ve also successfully started into tawny port,” she adds, offering me one to try. The chocolate melts slowly before the sugar shell inside suddenly explodes with a satisfying minicascade of warming liquor.

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Alton Huebner, assistant brewmaster at Fredericksburg Brewing Company

It turns out to be the perfect aperitif for a visit to the Fredericksburg Brewing Company, housed in a renovated 1890s heritage building further along Main Street. With the place already packed by 6 pm, I find a small high-table perch near the looming fermentation canisters and survey a scene of convivial beer hall bonhomie.

Heavy wooden tables are topped with golden pints and plates of heaping pub grub — I go for the excellent catfish with beer-battered fries. The four-flight sampler also seems like a good idea, so I’m soon tucking into hoppy Enchanted Rock Red Ale and java-esque Pioneer Porter.

Rising surprisingly early the next morning, I’m soon back on the road heading towards the area’s biggest wine-making operation. French-influenced Becker Vineyards, with its recently expanded wood-lined tasting room (dominated by a large circular bar) is slick enough to be in Napa. But it hasn’t lost any of the smiletriggering charm that makes smaller Texas wineries so welcoming.

50 // May/June 2011

Indulging in a six-glass sampling (US$10, including glass), I enjoy their blackcurranty 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. And their 2008 Bordeaux Blend Claret, which has a pleasing oaky chocolateness. But the 2008 Raven, a Malbec and Petit Verdot blend, is the one I buy. It’s smooth and highly quaffable, but bursting with date and coffee notes. Yum. With time for one last winery, I choose Torre di Pietra Vineyards. Loquacious winemaker Ken Maxwell engages me in conversation here in his rustic-chic tasting room before showing off his outdoor dance hall — there’s live music regularly here. It’s set against an idyllic backdrop striped with rows of Blanc du Bois vines.

“We focus on women here. Ladies buy 75 per cent of my wine so we work to keep them happy. For example, we use a local artist to produce very original labels,” he says, holding up a bottle of Texas Dirty Girl Chardonnay that has a young woman in a bathtub flirtatiously raising her leg.

I remark that the label probably works

quite well for men, too, and he agrees with a chuckle, adding: “People drink wine to escape and to fantasize.”

A five-glass sampler is just US$5 here (US$10 for reserve wines). I especially enjoy the Dirty Girl — crisp and dry with plenty of green apple kick — as well as the Amore de Tuscano, a Sangiovese, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon blend with a creamy black cherry finish.

Planning a return to Austin before the end of the day, I pull myself away and we hit the road again. But there’s one last visit to make. Kentucky has cornered the market in American grain whiskey, but one Texas pioneer aims to deliver Lone Star bourbon to his thirsty region. Started in 2005, Garrison Brothers Distillery is an organic producer nestled in the oak-covered hills above the tiny settlement of Hye. A recent and long-overdue law change in Texas finally made distilleries legal here, and this operation was one of the first to kick-start production. “Bourbon is the traditional drink of America, and there used to be thousands of producers across the country,” says owner Dan Garrison. “Prohibition killed nearly all of them and there were only four left when it finally ended in 1933.”

Walking me around the complex, Garrison explains production and shows off the 130-proof clear grain liquor that’s an early part of the process. This is poured into American oak barrels that eventually give the liquid its distinctive dark amber hue. Most of his production is still maturing — there are 950 barrels quietly waiting in a climate-controlled barn — but visitors can sample a two-year-old tipple that’s now ready. It’s surprisingly smooth, with sweet butterscotch notes and a rich but not overpowering finish.

Back on the road to Austin, I reflect on the area’s wealth of visitor-friendly drinking options, concluding that a good wine region should also offer a healthy mix of additional imbibing opportunities. And although it’s still only mid-afternoon, I’m already wondering where I can head for a Texas-made drink when I finally reach the city. •

if you go

Pedernales Cellars is at 2916 Upper Albert Road, Stonewall. It opens from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and noon to 6 p.m. Sunday. pedernalescellars.com

Grape Creek Vineyards is at 10587 East US Highway 290. It opens from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Friday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday, and 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday. grapecreek.com

Chocolat is at 251 West Main Street, Fredericksburg. It opens from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Friday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday, and 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Sunday. chocolat-tx.us Fredericksburg Brewing Company is at 245 East Main Street, Fredericksburg.

It opens from 11.30 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Monday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Friday and Saturday, and 11.30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday. yourbrewery.com Becker Vineyards is at 406 Becker Farms Road, Stonewall. It opens from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and noon to 6 p.m. Sunday. beckervineyards.com

Torre di Pietra is at 10915 East US Highway 290. It opens daily from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. texashillcountrywine.com

Garrison Brothers Distillery is in Hye on East US Highway 290. Tours are currently by appointment. garrisonbros.com

For Fredericksburg visitor information, check visitfredericksburgTX.org. For regional winery information, visit wineroad290.com.

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davine

by gurvinder Bhatia

//do they really?

Mexico has the oldest wine industry in the New World, yet wine is generally a distant third behind tequila and beer when the country’s libations are considered. In fact, the most common response I received from people when I mentioned that I was in Mexico tasting Mexican wine was, “They make wine in Mexico?”

The Spanish introduced vines to Mexico in the 1500s, but due to its tropical climate, only a small percentage of the country’s vines are geographically suited to growing premium quality wine grapes. The predominant wine producing regions tend to be concentrated, unsurprisingly, close to the US border.

The most prominent regions are the northern area of Baja California (specifically the Guadalupe Valley) with its proximity to California and Pacific influenced climate, and the northeastern desert-like region of Coahuila.

According to Wilfrido Lopez of Vinoteca, Mexico’s largest distributor of wine, the major issues confronting the country’s wine producers are domestically rooted. The government imposes very high taxes on domestic wines (as high as 40 per cent), thereby resulting in the price of Mexican wines being quite expensive relative to their quality (Lopez actually used the term “overpriced”). Also, the locals have not acquired a taste for table wine, so there is not a lot of support for domestic wine producers. As with most developing industries, the greatest support comes from tourists wanting to try local wines (they sell quite well in hotels, resorts, and restaurants frequented by tourists) and the affluent who see wine as a status symbol (often without regard to the quality).

52 // May/June 2011

There are a number of bottles being produced that clearly show promise and the potential of the Mexican wine industry.

Cabernet is, of course, the varietal receiving the most attention, even though in many instances it is being grown in less than ideal conditions. In my opinion, the varietals showing the greatest promise were Spanish and southern French varietals such as Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Tempranillo and Chenin Blanc. The range of quality is immense, but the potential is evident. However, unless the local tax structure is reformed, price will always be the most significant barrier to growth.

<white> Casa Madero Chenin Blanc 2010, Coahuila ($12)

Dried mango and papaya fruit with hints of ginger, peach and floral notes. A little shy on concentration, but a nice mouthfeel and touch of minerality on the pleasant finish. A good value and a nice match with slightly spicy Mexican cuisine.

Casa Madero Casa Grande Gran Reserva Chardonnay 2010, Coahuila ($25)

Lots of creamy vanilla-scented oak with baked apple aromas, flavours of spicy apple, pear, and creamy buttery oak, medium body and quite round on the finish. A little heavy-handed on the oak, but decent construction and complexity. A nice match with rich chicken and pork dishes.

<red> Montefiori Fusione Sangiovese Rosado 2010, Valle de Guadalupe ($11)

Zesty and fresh with a hint of sweetness, this easy quaffer is loaded with juicy raspberry and strawberry aromas and flavours with a touch of spice and zippy finish. Great for sipping by the pool in the hot summer sun.

Vinicola Adobe Guadalupe Kerubiel 2007, Valle de Guadalupe ($46)

Very nice and full of personality with good concentration, from the meaty notes to the black currant, black cherry and spicy plum; full-flavoured and fresh, with well-integrated tannins.

Very Rhône-like, but a bit more extracted and with more alcohol, though still quite tasty. Traditional Rhône blend of Cinsault, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache and a splash of Viognier.

Rivero González Scielo Vino Tinto 2008, Valle de Parras ($12)

Easy to like Cabernet/Shiraz/Merlot blend, with youthful fruity flavours of bright, juicy blackberry, black currant, plum and fresh herbs on the finish. Soft and easy. A good value.

Casa Madero 3V 2009, Valle de Parras ($19)

Liquorice, plum, and blackberry with lots of herbaceousness in this interesting blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Tempranillo. Lean-textured and finishes a bit short, with rustic tannins.

Viñedos Malagón Equua 2008, Valle de Guadalupe ($32)

Dark, rich and ripe, this is intense and full-bodied, delivering concentrated layers of ripe blackberry, wild berry and plum flavours with big tannins and a ripe, spicy finish. A blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Petite Sirah.

Tres BC Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Valle de Guadalupe ($42) Intense and concentrated, but lacking focus and finesse with overripe currant, anise, cedar and earth flavours, heavyhanded on the oak and excessive alcohol. A little restraint would make this better.

Viñedos Malagón El Grenache 2006, Valle de Guadalupe ($44)

Deliciously complex, bold, rich, juicy and layered, with dark berry, plum, and spice, full-flavoured, elegant and mouth-coating, this is concentrated without being heavy and ends with a long, persistent finish. A well constructed and very versatile food wine.

Montefiori Fusione Cabernet/Merlot 2008, Valle de Guadalupe ($13)

A tad overdone with ripe, somewhat over-extracted blackberry and black cherry flavours, lots of chocolate and a little brown sugar on the palate, finishing with quite a bit of alcohol. Had the potential to be a good value, but a little heavy-handed.

Monte Xanic Gran Ricardo 2007, Valle de Guadalupe ($60) Hot and over-extracted with lots of milk chocolate and coffeeflavoured toast, ultra-ripe black cherry and plum jam with nonexistent tannins. A little (actually a lot) overdone and hard to justify the price.

Santo Tomás Tardo 2005, Valle de Santo Tomás ($31/375 ml) A late harvest Tempranillo that is dark, ripe, and hot, showing a little like cherry cough medicine. Could use a little more acidity to help balance the alcohol and sweetness. Intense at 18% plus (probably closer to 20% plus). …… The prices of the wines tasted are local Mexican prices converted to Canadian dollars from pesos.

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//the food notes 92 Elderton Ode to Lorraine Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot 2008, Barossa, Australia ($42.95) Lorraine is a complex lady, filling her life with plums, raspberries, herbal mint, liquorice, and coffee, and they are all present on her medium-tofull-bodied frame. Tannins are present too, but they are buried under the structure. Surprisingly, the acid is fresh, making her all the more attractive, with or without a meal to accompany the occasion. (ES)

94 Joseph Drouhin Les Clos Grand Cru 2008, Chablis, France ($76) Very fragrant nose, led by caramel and vanilla aromas. Lively acidity with ripe fruit and citrus flavours. Wet stone and mineral linger to a very long finish. Great balance of delicacy and power, with a structured mouthfeel, vibrant texture and expansive finish. Pair with turbot in cream sauce. (HH)

89 Stone Paddock Scarlet 2007, Hawkeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bay, New Zealand ($28)

This Merlot (37%), Cab Sauv (35%), Cab Franc (16%), Malbec (12%) blend embodies Bordeaux varietal potential in this NZ region. Deep black currant aromas and rich black fruit flavours complement well-balanced palate and cedarspiced finish. A go-to choice for red meats. (HH)

88 Hester Creek Cabernet Franc Reserve 2008, Okanagan ($26)

Expressive varietal character from grape thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finding firm footing and budding fame in the Okanagan. Floral notes on nose, ripe sweet fruit on palate, supported by well-structured frame. Dry tannins linger on spicy finish. Serve with seared duck breast. (HH)

86 Boeri Dolcetto 2009, Monferrato Dolcetto DOC , Italy ($12.99)

This one has lively, enticingly ripe dark berry and plum scents with a pinch of spice and a whiff of vanilla. In the mouth, fleshy ripe berry flavours contrast with black cherry bitterness, light tannic grip and earthy overtones. Not overly complex, but a great match for pizza or tomato based pastas. (SW)

89 Little Straw Tapestry 2009, Okanagan ($28)

An aromatic and refreshing blend of white varietals with hints of lychee, tropical fruit and spice with a hint of residual sweetness on the well-balanced and tasty finish. Very drinkable, a great summer sipper and ideal match with spicy foods. (GB)

54 // May/June 2011

Bouquet Garni by nancy johnson

//merry month of may

In May the world opens like the bright petals of tulips. I can’t help but embrace the day and unfurl my hopeful heart to the sudden possibility of sun-scorched days, starry summer nights, picnics in the park, neighbourhood parties, lazy mornings at the cottage, a dip in the lake, and a good book in the hammock under the tree.

It’s not surprising that May Day festivals have been celebrated for thousands of years around the world. Generations of revellers have spun with abandon around the maypole and I know why.

May makes me merry, and believe me, I am not the merry sort. But this month, I am giddy, light-hearted and mirthful. I want to place a wreath of daffodils in my hair; I want to dance a wild dance around the maypole, I want to teach the world to sing in perfect harmony. As the earth warms, I warm to the idea of inviting guests over to bask in the rays of Mother Earth’s affection.

I long to commune with friends I haven’t seen since winter’s hush, I want to hear our laughter fill the night sky, I want to see our joy bounce off the sharp edges of the crystal stars. In May, I am certifiably insane. And why not? After all, it is May. The May menu is simple, easy and breezy.

Michael’s Spicy Buffalo Chicken Dip Serves 6 as an appetizer

My brother-in-law Michael Flanigan created this dish using a Le Creuset casserole I gave to him for Christmas. He returned the favour

by giving me this addictive Buffalo Chicken Dip recipe, which my niece calls “Crack Dip.” There are many buffalo chicken dip recipes floating around. This one is the keeper and perfect for watching the evening game on the tube.

2

tsp canola oil cup red onion, minced 1 lb cooked boneless chicken fillets, shredded 1 cup ranch dressing 2 containers cream cheese, softened at room temperature (250 ml) 3/4 cup Buffalo Wing Sauce 2 cups shredded cheddar cheese, divided 1/2 cup gorgonzola cheese Tortilla chips & sliced celery for dipping

1/2

1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. 2. In large saucepan, heat canola oil. Sauté onions until soft.

Add chicken, ranch dressing, cream cheese and wing sauce. Stir until cream cheese melts and is heated through. Add 1 cup cheddar cheese. Stir until melted.

3. Cover a baking dish with cooking spray. Pour mixture into baking dish. Top with remaining 1 cup cheddar cheese and gorgonzola cheese. Bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes or until bubbly. Serve with tortilla chips and celery. …… Try with a lip-smacking Canadian beer.

+ Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on tidingsmag.com

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Roast Chicken Serves 4 to 6

When it comes to cooking for company, I usually opt for a roasted dish. Roast chicken is particularly versatile because you can serve it as is, or shred the meat and make yummy dishes like Chicken Lo Mein, pulled chicken sandwiches, or chicken salad.

4 2 1 1 2

lb roasting chicken tsp butter, softened tsp minced fresh thyme leaves tsp sweet Hungarian paprika tsp extra virgin olive oil 1/2 tsp salt 1/8 tsp pepper 2 garlic cloves, peeled & minced 2 shallots, peeled & minced 1 lemon, quartered Few sprigs fresh thyme

1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. 2. In a small bowl, combine butter, thyme, paprika, olive oil, salt, pepper, garlic, and shallots. Rub mixture under and over skin.

Grilled Flank Steak with Chili Rub and Black Bean, Corn and Mango Salad Serves 4

Flank steak is an excellent and versatile cut of meat that needs just a fast sear on the barbecue and a quick rest before arriving at the table in all its juicy glory. Be sure to cut it into thin slices, against the grain for maximum tenderness. The salad can be varied with different types of beans, hot peppers and fruit, such as kidney beans, corn, habaneros and pineapple.

2 1 1

tsp chilli powder tsp ground coriander tsp brown sugar 1/2 tsp salt 1/8 tsp pepper 1 1/2 lb flank steak 2 tsp olive oil Warm tortillas

1. Preheat the barbecue grill.

2. In a small bowl, combine the chilli

powder, coriander, sugar, salt and pepper.

3. Pat the steak with the olive oil and then the spice mixture. Grill for about 6 minutes on each side or until a meat thermometer registers 130˚F for medium rare.

4. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest 5 minutes, tented with foil. Slice and serve with warm tortillas and black bean salad (see recipe on the right).

56 // May/June 2011

3. Tie legs together with string. Place chicken, breast side up, on a rack in a roasting pan. Put lemon in cavity of chicken with a few sprigs of fresh thyme.

4. Roast at 350˚F for 60 minutes. Increase oven temperature to 450˚F and roast for 15 minutes longer or until a meat thermometer registers 165˚F. Let chicken rest for 10 minutes before carving. …… Serve with a citrusy California Chardonnay.

Grilled Chicken and Sweet Red Pepper Stacks with Classic Vinaigrette Serves 4

This is a fresh, spring dish for the first barbecue of the year. You can add other grilled vegetables to the stack such as zucchini, asparagus and eggplant. The vinaigrette is made with cider vinegar but you can use balsamic or champagne vinegar instead.

4 1 2

chicken breast fillets, pounded to even thickness sweet red pepper, seeded and cut into quarters tbsp extra virgin olive oil

classic vinaigrette

2

tbsp cider vinegar tsp Dijon mustard tbsp extra virgin olive oil large basil leaves, chopped, for garnish

1/2 6 4

1. Preheat the barbecue grill.

2. Place the chicken and red pepper in a glass or ceramic bowl and pour 2 tbsp olive oil over all. Season with salt and pepper. Stir to coat. Marinate in the refrigerator for 1 hour.

3. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk the cider vinegar, mustard and salt. Whisk in

the olive oil. Set aside.

4. Grill chicken and peppers until chicken registers 160˚F on a meat thermometer and peppers are lightly charred. Transfer to a platter, cover and let rest about 10 minutes.

5. To assemble, place one chicken fillet on each of four plates. Top each with a pepper quarter. Spoon dressing over and around each stack. Garnish with basil leaves. Serve warm. …… This dish pairs well with a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

Black Bean, Corn and Mango Salad Serves 4

1 can black beans (540 ml), drained and rinsed 1 can white corn (341 ml), drained 1 small jalapeño pepper, seeded and finely chopped 2 tbsp red onion, minced 1 mango, peeled and diced

dressing 2 1

1/2 6 1

tbsp balsamic vinegar clove garlic, pressed tsp sugar tbsp extra virgin olive oil tbsp fresh cilantro, minced, for garnish

1. In a medium bowl, combine the beans, corn,

jalapeño pepper, red onion and mango.

2. In a separate bowl, whisk the vinegar, garlic, sugar, salt and pepper. Whisk in the olive oil. Pour over bean mixture. Marinate in refrigerator for one hour before serving. …… A good quality California Merlot works wonders with this dish.

Grilled Steak and Shropshire Blue Cheese Salad with Black Grapes, Pecans and White Balsamic Vinaigrette

Chicken Lo Mein Serves 4

1 2 2

cup shredded chicken tbsp soy sauce tbsp canola oil

lo mein sauce

2 2

cup soy sauce cup chicken broth tsp rice vinegar tsp toasted sesame oil tsp chili garlic paste (optional) tsp sugar

1/4 1/4

Serves 4

1/2

I have not always liked blue cheese, and in fact, I’m still very fussy about the type of blue cheese that goes on my plate.

For the most part, I favour Gorgonzola, but recently while shopping at my local supermarket, a nice lady in a starched red apron handed me a tiny cup containing a dollop of orange cheese and a single black grape. And suddenly I was in love with creamy and mellow Shropshire, an orange-coloured cheese with ribbons of blue that melts in the mouth.

1

1 bag field greens 2 cups seedless black grapes, halved 1 cup Shropshire blue cheese 1 cup pecan pieces 2 rib eye steaks, grilled to medium rare and thinly sliced

250 g linguine, cooked

white balsamic vinaigrette

2 6

tbsp white balsamic vinegar tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1. Divide field greens, grapes, cheese, and pecans among four plates.

2. In a small bowl, mix vinegar with salt. Whisk in olive oil. Spoon over salad. Top with steak. …… Blue cheese has a lot of flavour, so I would pair this dish with a full-bodied Malbec or a spicy Shiraz.

vegetables 1 1 1 1 1

cup sliced mushrooms small onion, chopped cup broccoli florets, steamed until crisp-tender clove garlic, minced tbsp minced ginger root

1. In a small bowl, toss chicken with 2 tablespoons soy sauce. Set aside.

2. Make Lo Mein Sauce: In another small bowl mix 1/4 cup soy sauce,

chicken broth, rice vinegar, sesame oil, chili garlic paste and sugar. Set aside.

3. In a large skillet or wok, heat 1 tbsp canola oil. Add mushrooms and onions, stir-fry until mushrooms are cooked through and onions are soft, about 5 minutes.

4. Add chicken; stir-fry until chicken is heated through, about 1 minute.

5. Add steamed broccoli; cook until heated through, about 1 minute.

Add garlic and ginger; stir-fry until fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer to a plate; keep warm.

6. Add remaining 1 tbsp canola oil to skillet. Add cooked linguine; stir-fry until heated through, about 1 minute. Add chicken/vegetable mixture to wok.

Stir in Lo Mein sauce. Heat through, stirring occasionally. Serve immediately. …… I am always partial to a lychee-flavoured Alsatian Gewürztraminer with Chinese cuisine. •

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//the notes

91 Amisfield RKV Pinot Noir 2006, Central Otago, New Zealand ($95)

Sourced from a Rocky Knoll Vineyard block in Cromwell sub-region. Complex aromas of dried herbs and savoury meats. Mix of ripe red/black fruit flavours on creamy-textured palate, supported by well-integrated tannins. Finishes with chocolate and spice notes. Ready for venison. (HH)

91 Salomon-Undhof Von Stein Reserve Grüner Veltliner 2006, Kremstal, Austria ($39) Here is a superb Grüner that offers great depth and ripeness. Light yellow in colour, the aromatic nose of pineapples, honey, caramel, pepper and apples are built on a full-bodied frame. The finish is very long with mouthwatering acidity, but without any sense of heaviness. Drink it over the next 10 years. (ES)

88 Ghost Pines Merlot 2007, Napa/Sonoma, United States ($20) Made from almost equal parts of Napa and Sonoma fruit, this Merlot is everything that you want from the varietal — plum, blackberries, black cherries, spice, coffee and cocoa — all built on a medium-bodied frame. Ripe, rich and easy to drink, it offers immediate gratification, or will age pleasantly for a couple of years. (ES)

89 Badia a Coltibuono 2007, Chianti Classico DOCG, Italy ($30.43) The nose is still somewhat closed but does reveal typical cherry and dark plum character. More forward on the palate, though, with a generous mouthful of powerfully concentrated yet refined dark fruit, fine spice and Baker’s Chocolate. Well-balanced, solid tannic structure and long harmonious finish. (SW)

58 // May/June 2011

95 Louis Jadot Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru 2006, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France ($239) Complex floral nose seduces, while rich, concentrated palate satisfies. Feminine texture and silky tannins give a sense of weightlessness despite its voluptuous flavours. Aromas and flavours of cherry, black currant and spice notes, while minerality lingers. Suited superbly for roast duck. (HH)

91 Castello di Nieve Barbaresco 2007, Piedmont, Italy ($19.95) A bargain Barbaresco from a great vintage.

Ruby colour, a nose of vanilla oak, dried cherries, graphite and minerals. Medium bodied, dry, great extract and balance with a lovely velvety mouthfeel. (TA)

Tidings uses the 100-point scale 95-100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

90-94. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

85-89 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80-84. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

75-79. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70 & under. . . . . . . . . . .

exceptional excellent

very good good acceptable

below average

* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . available through

wine clubs green. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . white & rosé wines red. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . red wines

Our Scoring

System

the commentaries in order to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board, or its website, for availability.

Our tasters are Tony Aspler (ON), Sean Wood (NS, NB), Gilles Bois (QC), Evan Saviolidis (ON), Harry Hertscheg (BC), Gurvinder Bhatia (AB) and Jonathan Smithe (ON).

Argentina // p. 59; Australia // p. 59; austria // p. 59-60;

Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category.

Readers should open their palates to compare the relationship between quality and price. We’d also ask you to carefully study

Canada // p. 60-61; CHILE // p. 61; France // p. 61-63; Germany // p. 63; Italy // p. 63-64; New Zealand // p. 64;

the notes\\ /Argentina /

89 La Posta Pizzella Family Vineyard Malbec 2008, Mendoza ($15) Argentina’s flagship grape at an attractive price. Dense purple colour with a rich bouquet of blueberry and vanilla oak, medium-bodied with lushly extracted fruit, a touch of spice and a floral grace note. (TA)

88 Trapiche Oak Cask Merlot 2008, Mendoza ($13.99)

Though relatively young, the nose shows developed dark fruit, fine spice and a whiff of vanillin. Rich dark plum and black cherry flavours are

supported by firm tannic structure with a splash of smoothing dark chocolate on the long finish. (SW)

/Australia / 86 Pure Evil Chardonnay 2008, South Australia ($13)

Lightly buttery citrus and tropical fruit aromatics with generously ripe citrus and tropical fruit in the mouth.

Finishes with buttery vanilla and good balancing acidity. (SW)

89 Westend Estate Cool Climate Pinot Noir 2009, New South Wales ($17.95)

+ A searchable listing of our tasting notes is at tidingsmag.com/notes/

portugal // p. 64; United States // p. 65; beer // p. 65

From the delightfully named Tumbarumba region. Deep purple colour with a spicy, smoky, black cherry nose, full bodied with sweet fruit, firmly structured with a minty note and a warm alcoholic finish. (TA)

84 Rockart Estate Heritage Release Cabernet Sauvignon/ Merlot 2008, Southeastern Australia ($11.99)

Ripe, spicy berry and plum scents and agreeably balanced ripe fruit, moderate tannic grip and appetizing acidity.

Dark chocolate and spicy notes kick in on the rather dry finish. Isn’t it BBQ season? (SW)

/Austria /

93 Kracher Chardonnay Trockenbeerenauslese Cuvée No 3 Nouvelle Vague 2000, Burgenland ($79) If you have never experienced one of Kracher’s über delicious dessert wines, you don’t know what you are missing! Super rich, this golden amber botrytis affected stickie, flaunts honey, wax, dried apricots, marmalade, spice and candied apples. The finish is delightfully long, and, even though there is substantial sweetness, the equally substantial acidity gives the wine symmetry. (ES)

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//the notes

89 Tawse Van Bers Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2008, Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario ($48)

90 Falernia Carmenère/ Syrah Reserva 2007, Elqui Valley, Chile ($16.99)

Year in, year out, this is one of Ontario’s best Cab Francs.

In ‘08, because of challenging growing conditions, the grapes were harvested on November 25, with a natural alcohol content of 13.5%. The perfume of flowers, pencil shavings, cassis, tobacco, raspberries and vanilla seduces the taster. In the mouth, it is elegant and refined, with lots of fine-grained tannins. Drink it over the next 5 years. (ES)

Bouquet is quite developed, with interesting smokiness, red berry fruit, white pepper and background minty herbal notes. Sweet ripe red berry, rich milk chocolate and supple tannins on mid-palate transition into a long, complex succulently fruity, spicy and deftly oaked finish. (SW)

90 Salomon-Undhof Linberg Grüner Veltliner Reserve 2006, Kremstal ($35)

This Groovy is just a smidge lighter than Von Stein, but with many of the same attributes: pineapple, honey, spice and apples. Crisp acidity and excellent length will allow it to age gracefully over the next decade. (ES)

89 Weingut Nigl Grüner Veltliner Gartling 2009, Kremstal ($22.58)

I have always been a big fan of Nigl. Light green-yellow in colour, the crisp personality of the wine is layered with banana, apples, grapefruit, herbs and spice. There is very good length and a medium body. Pair this with herbcrusted halibut, or grilled pork chops with asparagus, in a hollandaise sauce. (ES)

88 Leth Grüner Veltliner Steinagrund Lagenreserve 2009, Niederösterreich ($16.95)

60 // May/June 2011

Here is a great introduction to the world of Grüner that will not break the bank. It is light yellow with a green tinge, and the bouquet of honey, white pepper, grapefruit, flowers and green pepper meet up with a spicy and somewhat oily palate. Nonetheless, there is still enough acidity to backstop the finale. (ES)

86 Soellner Toni Grüner Veltliner 2009, Niederösterreich ($14.95) For under $15, this is a no brainer, as well as being a great introduction into the world of the ‘Groovy Grape’.

It is quite youthful, showing peach, pepper, honey and minerals, and comes light bodied and flavourful. (ES)

/Canada / 90 The Grange of Prince Edward County Brut Rosé 2008, Prince Edward County ($34.85) By far, this is the county’s

best bubbly to date, and possibly Ontario’s best sparkling Rosé. Two years of aging on the lees have given the wine a yeasty overtone that combines with strawberries and earth. In the mouth, the same yeast and strawberries combine with cranberry fruit. It is delicate with very crisp acid and excellent length. Kudos to winemaker Jeff Innes and Grange! (ES)

89 Fielding Estate Riesling 2009, Ontario ($15.95)

Very pale in colour, but don’t let that fool you. This Riesling has real varietal character — a nose of lime and minerals; it’s light-bodied, elegant and clean on the plate with zesty flavours of lime and peach. (TA)

89 Henry of Pelham Off-Dry Reserve Riesling 2008, Ontario ($15.95) This wine won a Silver Medal at the 2010 Ottawa Wine Challenge. Straw-coloured

with a bouquet of peach and grapefruit and that characteristic petrol note that Riesling develops with age. Light bodied. There’s a honeyed note in mid-palate that’s nicely balanced with the citrus fruit, finishing crisply dry. (TA)

87 Hester Creek Pinot Blanc 2009, Okanagan ($16)

Trio of stainless steel fermentation, minimal lees contact and no malolactic fermentation ensures unbridled freshness. Green apple, melon, honey and herbs appear throughout, with peach notes on finish. Exhibits firmer texture than previous softer expressions. Pair with BC spot prawns. (HH)

86 Baillie-Grohman Gewürztraminer 2009, Creston, BC ($26)

A simple, straightforward style with lychee, spice, citrus, and pear aromas and flavours with a soft palate and slightly off-dry finish. Look for more

complexity in future vintages as the vines continue to mature. A nice match with Asian cuisine. (GB)

90 Jackson-Triggs Delaine Vineyard Syrah 2007, Ontario ($29.95)

Dense ruby-purple in colour, this Syrah is a serious wine with a spicy, blackberry and vanilla oak nose. More Northern Rhône than Aussie, it’s medium bodied, fresh and lively on the palate with ripe tannins and firm structure. (TA)

89 Peller Estates Signature Series Cabernet Franc 2008, Niagara ($38)

Here is a real flatterer!

Lawrence Buhler has produced a solid Cabernet Franc from the difficult red vintage of 2008. Wonderfully elegant, the perfume is a mélange of raspberries, cassis, cocoa, coffee and sweet tobacco, and is built on a medium-bodied frame. In the mouth, there is a sweet core of fruit, soft tannins, and it provides a long finish. It is ready to drink with your favourite cut of steak or lamb chops, marinated in garlic and Greek oregano. (ES)

88 Tawse Grower’s Blend Pinot Noir 2009, Niagara ($32)

Sourced from multiple vineyards throughout the Peninsula, and aged in 20% new barrels, this wine is a chorus of plums, black raspberries, violets¸ spice and vanilla. The palate is graceful, but still a little disorderly, so let it sit in the cellar until the end of the year and then drink it until 2014. (ES)

88 JoieFarm PTG 2008, Okanagan ($48)

PTG refers to “Passetoutgrain” the classic Gamay/ Pinot Noir blended wine from Burgundy. JoieFarm’s version has ripe cherry aromas and flavours with a nice spiciness.

It is showing a little heavy on the oak, but that may settle with a bit more time in the bottle. A good match with roasted meat dishes. (GB)

88 Quail’s Gate Old Vines Foch Reserve 2008, Okanagan ($49.99)

More approachable at this young stage than previous vintages while still possessing big, bold flavours of leather, meat, coffee, tobacco, earth, vanilla and herbs. Different stylistically than in the past, but it will be interesting to see how this unique wine develops and evolves over the next few years. (GB)

/Chile / 92 Altaïr 2005, Cachapoal Valley ($65)

A super Chilean with a price to match. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Syrah, and 3% Carmenère. Dense purple-black in colour with a concentrated nose of blackcurrant and cedary oak. On the palate you’re greeted with rich, sweet, jammy, spicy blackcurrant fruit. Voluptuous and fleshy but well structured nonetheless. (TA)

89 Casa Lapostolle Merlot 2008, Chile ($16.95)

Winemaker Andrea León adds 15% Carmenère to this

variety, giving it a very dense purple colour. The oak is deftly handled projecting a bouquet of vanilla, blueberry and black fruits with an engaging floral note. There is a juicy, sweet core to this medium-to-full-bodied wine but it finishes firmly with ripe tannins. (TA)

89 Carmen Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Maipo Valley ($19.99)

Quintessential Chilean expression of Cabernet Sauvignon, bringing out all the aromatic intensity of piquant blackcurrant, green herb and bell pepper. In the mouth, luscious ripe blackberry and blackcurrant fruit with mint and dark chocolate sub-themes. Full bodied, with velvety texture, well calibrated acidity and tannic structure. (SW)

89 Carmen Gran Reserva Merlot 2009, Maipo Valley ($19.99)

Seductive fleshy ripe berry and plum bouquet with a subtle overlay of fine spice and green herb. Rich flavours of fruit, milk chocolate and mocha contrast with lively youthful acidity and firm tannins on the palate. Dark chocolate and spicy notes kick in on the dry finish. (SW)

89 Laroche Cabernet Sauvignon Viña Punto Alto 2007, Casablanca Valley ($23.90)

Ruby colour. Fine nose of red and black fruits without the vegetal notes sometimes found in Chilean red wines.

Full bodied, it fills the mouth; its tannins are finely

grained and barely rough.

Ready to drink and quite delicious. (GBQc)

88 Junta Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Curico Valley ($15.99)

Shows aromatic intensity with typical Cabernet blackcurrant, leafy herbal and minty overtones and an uncharacteristic scent of blueberries.

Dark fruit flavour suggests blackberries, though, with firm tannins, dark chocolate and a hint of mocha. (SW)

/France / 94 Louis Jadot PulignyMontrachet 1er Cru “Folatières” 2006, Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy ($112)

Sense of place resonates from its stony, well-warmed vineyards between Meursault and Montrachet. Generous aromatic offerings of stone fruit and spice. Partial malolactic fermentation ensures rich buttery flavour and seductive mouthfeel. Impresses from start to finish. Contemplate with fine cheese. (HH)

91 Louis Jadot Chassagne-Montrachet 2007, Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy ($47)

Although fermented in French oak barrels, its influence seems minimal. No malolactic fermentation ensures a bright, lemonyclean taste. Aromas and flavours of crème caramel and hazelnut delight.

Mesmerizing texture and long-lingering finish. Serve with richly sauced white meats until 2017. (HH)

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//the notes

91 Penfolds Cellar Reserve Pinot Noir 2007, Adelaide Hills, South Australia ($51.06) Fine Pinot varietal character is apparent on the nose with rich cherry, gamey barnyard and subtle pencil box oak in the background. Mouth filling dark cherry fruit comes wrapped in a smoothly rounded texture with lightly firm tannins and light herbal and chocolate overtones. Restrained, classic wine with great depth. (SW)

87 Baillie-Grohman Pinot Gris 2009, Creston, BC ($28) Pleasant floral aromas with hints of green apple and mineral with a soft, round texture and flavours of apple, pear, citrus and a slight bitterness. Would benefit from a little more acidity, but quite a good wine, as the vines are only 3 years old. Shows promise for future vintages. (GB)

90 Château Roquetaillade La Grange Blanc 2008, Bordeaux ($14.95)

White Bordeaux is a blend of mostly Sémillon with Muscadelle and Sauvignon Blanc.

Pale straw in colour, this great value wine offers a nose of vanilla oak, peach and cut grass with a mineral note.

Medium bodied with a lovely mouthfeel and flavours of peach and passion fruit. (TA)

90 Roc de Cambes 2007, Côtes de Bourg ($65)

Costly for a Côtes de Bourg but worth it. Dense purple-black colour with an intense smoky, floral, blackcurrant nose. Very elegant on the palate with a full-bodied, ripe blackcurrant flavour, firmly structured.

An elegant, sensuous wine worth cellaring. (TA)

89 Duval Leroy Brut Champagne ($59)

Made primarily with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier and about 10% Chardonnay, this stylish bubbly shows elegant

62 // May/June 2011

red fruits on the nose accented with toasty brioche and a whiff of mineral. Palate displays classic breed, with richness and weight offset by austere minerality and firm acid grip. (SW)

88 Laroche St-Martin 2009, Chablis, Burgundy ($23.95)

Pale yellow. Distinctive and slightly perfumed nose, subdued minerality. Nice volume on the palate, good balance. Straightforward and ready to drink. (GBQc)

88 Joseph Drouhin Premier Cru 2009, Chablis ($42)

A blend of four Premier Cru vineyard parcels along both sides of the Serein River.

Apple, floral and herbal aromas. Delicate structure, bracing acidity, refreshing citrus flavours and long mineral finish. Expect honey notes to develop with age.

Serve with white fish fillet in cream sauce. (HH)

87 Laroche Chardonnay de la Chevalière 2009, Vin de Pays d’Oc ($13.95)

Delicate nose of white fruits, lanolin and mineral notes.

Clean acidity, nice round mouthfeel, a light acid twist to finish things up. Drink up.

(GBQc)

86 Domaine du Landreau Village Muscadet Sur Lie 2009, Muscadet de Sèvre-etMaine AC ($11.99)

“Sur Lie” yeastiness gives a touch of complexity on the nose and provides some roundness to the austerely dry green fruit palate.

Finishes very dry, with a seam of brisk acidity. (SW)

96 Louis Jadot Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2006, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy ($320) Captivates with complex floral, fruity and herbal aromas. Seduces you with meaty/gamey flavours,

velvety texture and silky tannins. Its long, exquisite mineral finish is stunning. An utterly ethereal tasting experience. Seemingly disappears before even reaching your throat. Drink 2016 to 2021, or longer with ideal cellar conditions. (HH)

94 Louis Jadot Echézeaux Grand Cru 2006, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy ($182)

Perfumed nose and dense mid-palate seduces. Wonderful floral and gamey notes with rich, ripe tannins that lead to a long mineral finish.

Balance ensured when “finesse with intensity” and “powerful yet delicate” descriptors come to mind. A worthy cellar companion for the next 15 years. (HH)

92 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle Musigny Premier Cru 2007, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy ($82) The delicate, feminine fragrance gives way to more

savoury earth and mushroom flavours. Excellent balance accompanies depth of flavour, breadth of texture and a length of finish led by persistent minerality. Serve with hearty coq au vin. (HH)

91 Château Certan De May 2006, Pomerol ($145)

This medium-bodied Pomerol possesses a youthful black centre with a ruby rim.

The bouquet reveals cooked plums, cassis, ripe cherries, spice and toast. Flavours of earth, red flowers and coffee chime in on the long finale. It is ready to drink but will last another decade, or more. (ES)

90 Château de Carolle 2009, Graves, Bordeaux ($20.75)

Ruby purple. Minerally, deep fruity nose, earthy, liquorice.

Rich fruity taste, chewy, soft tannins. Full bodied, it remains balanced through the nice long finish. Drinks well now and over the next couple of years. (GBQc)

89 Louis Jadot Savignyles-Beaune 1er Cru “Clos des Guettes” 2006, Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy ($47) Classic red Burgundian descriptors of floral and red berries throughout. There’s a bright intensity to the perfume on the nose, while its lighter weight manifests itself on the delicate structure. Nice minerality on the compact finish. Poised for a Sunday evening roast chicken. (HH)

88 Domaine du Cros Lo Sang del Païs 2008,

Marcillac, Southwest ($13.70)

Vibrant purple colour. Fresh nose of red fruits and light spices, a hint of green pepper.

Supple, very fruity taste.

Slightly bitter, it has a good fresh feel on the palate. Soft tannins and a balanced finish.

Perfect with sandwiches on a warm spring day. Time to open the patio. (GBQc)

88 Duboeuf Beaujolais-Villages 2009, Burgundy ($15)

Medium ruby-purple. Sweet fruity nose (cherry, blackberry) lifted by a touch of spice. Intense fruity flavour, soft body, slightly warm on the tongue, narrow finish.

Drink now with simple dishes, veggie pizza or hamburgers. (GBQc)

87 Château Le Pey Cru Bourgeois 2008, Medoc ($17.95)

This wine is a great intro to the realm of petit Châteaux Bordeaux. Made from a blend of Cab Sauv and Merlot, it delivers the goods in the form of toast, spice, tobacco and dark fruits. There is very good length and enough tannin to allow it to work with your dinner steak or chop. (ES)

86 Laroche 3 Grappes Rouges 2009, Vin de Pays d’Oc ($11.55)

As its name implies, it is made from 3 varieties: Merlot, Grenache and Syrah in roughly equal parts. Nice purple colour. The intensely fruity nose is inviting. Firm and even a little bit rough on the tongue, it will be great with red meat if it’s not overcooked. (GBQc)

/Germany / 93 Gunderloch Nackenheim Rothenberg Riesling Auslese 2006, Rheinhessen ($59)

A wine to drink on your knees. Medium straw in colour with a hint of lime, a nose of honey and peach and citrus fruits with an amazing balance between medium sweet fruit and zesty acidity.

Just a joy. (TA)

91 Pfeffingen Gewürztraminer Spätlese 2008, Pfalz ($19.95) If you’re a Gewürz fan, don’t miss this one. Neon yellow in colour with a green tint, it has a nose of concentrated lychee and rose petal. Full bodied with an intense cardamom and orange flavour with a smoky note. Very exotic with great length. (TA)

90 Rheichsgraf Von Kesselstatt Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett 2007, Mosel ($19.95)

From one of the most prized vineyards of Mosel, and from a top vintage, comes this elegant Riesling. Not as powerful as some, the quality and length are still undeniable, with mineral, lime, peach, honey and petrol all present in the mix. Drink it now if you enjoy the fruit, or age for up to 12 years if you enjoy the mature qualities of a solid Mosel. (ES)

white fruits and flower notes.

Good clean fruity taste, good acid/fruit/alcohol balance.

Nothing complicated, just a nice glass of well made white wine. Drink now. (GBQc)

91 Tenuta Guado al Tasso Il Bruciato 2008, Bolgheri, Tuscany ($27.75) Deep purplish ruby. Refined nose of red and black fruits, a good dose of oak (vanilla) and earthy notes. Tight and quite compact but the finely grained tannins have a grip that pierces through the intense fruit.

Finish is dry. Already delicious and should evolve favourably for 4 to 5 years. (GBQc)

90 Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2005, Tuscany ($65)

Fabulous, immensely appealing, with vibrant and youthful aromas and flavours of cherry, blackberry, earth, leather and mineral. Full bodied yet elegant with masses of fruit and tannins, but completely harmonious with a long fresh and clean finish. Perfect with wild boar. (GB)

89 Cecchi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2007, Tuscany ($24.95)

/Italy /

This Vino Nobile shows great balance between the concentration, tannin and acid. Medium body, its personality of plums, cherries, spice, dried herbs and wet earth make it a match for rich roasts or braised lamb shanks. It finishes long and will age well for a couple of years. (ES)

89 Frescobaldi Castello di Pomino 2009, Pomino, Tuscany ($18.80)

89 Castello d’Albola Chianti Classico Riserva 2005, Tuscany ($25.35)

Interesting and inviting nose of

Fine nose of ripe red fruits and

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//the notes moderate oak, it retains some freshness. Structurally on the finesse side with soft tannins, supple middle palate and a slightly firm finish. Well done and enjoyable now. (GBQc)

89 Col d’Orcia Rosso di Montalcino ‘Banditella’ DOC 2008, Tuscany ($45)

Lovely, full bodied and elegant with masses of berry, dark chocolate and vanilla flavours, velvety tannins and a long finish. (GB)

88 Col d’Orcia Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2008, Tuscany ($37)

An elegant, well-crafted wine with berry, mineral and earthy character, medium bodied, with very fine tannins and a delicious, fresh finish. Nicely done from the originator of this style of wine. (GB)

87 Carpineto Dogajolo 2009, IGT Tuscany ($16.65)

Medium ruby. Light and pleasant nose of red fruits, inviting. Moderately concentrated, delicate tannins and clean fruity taste. Well balanced with a round mouthfeel, easy going. Drinks well now. (GBQc)

87 Tenuta Rocca di Montemassi Sassabruna 2008, Monteregio di Massa Marittima, Tuscany ($22.15)

Elegant and clean nose of red fruits and flowers. Supple and fruity, balance is slightly on the acid side, but not enough to be problematic. Perfect if you’re so inclined. Drink now. (GBQc)

/New / Zealand 89 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Marlborough, ($22.99)

Aromatic Kiwi Sauvignon style, showing plenty of gooseberry, fresh grassy herb, mineral and a whiff of asparagus. Succulent green fruit on the palate is led by gooseberry, but also reveals overtones of passion fruit.

Harmoniously balanced with grippy mineral finish. (SW)

91 Sacred Hill Deerstalkers Syrah 2007, Hawkes Bay ($40) Bolts out of the gate with intense gamey, very meaty, red-fruited aromas. Expect a rich, intense, spicy, opulently textured palate. Complex finish of dried herbs, liquorice and black olive. Winemaker

Tony Bish describes it as “dangerously drinkable.” And it is, so just start sipping. (HH)

pear. Moderate alcohol and medium weight makes it a fine aperitif. (SW)

88 Stone Paddock Syrah 2008, Hawke’s Bay ($23)

89 J. F. Lurton Barco Negro 2008, Douro Valley ($15)

Floral and sweet berry aromas. Loads of ripe red fruit on a richly textured mid-palate. Expressive purity of fruit with creamy mocha texture. Delightful white pepper and savoury finish. Versatile style engages both meat-eaters and vegetarians. (HH)

/Portugal / 87 Quinta Paco de Teixeiro 2009, Douro Branco ($14.99)

Displays fragrant floral and ripe yellow fruits on the nose with yellow pear, cantaloupe and suggestions of citrus and honey on the palate. Quite full-flavoured but pleasantly light in alcohol. (SW)

84 Quinta de Ventozelo Cister da Ribeira Branco 2009, Douro DOC ($9.79)

This blend of 5 local Douro grape varieties offers lightly fruity and floral scents and gentle flavours of melon and

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64 // May/June 2011

Full ruby. Red fruits, slightly oaky. Light touches of spices and vanilla add complexity.

Quite firm on the palate, fine tannins and clean fruity taste.

Finishes neatly. (GBQc)

88 Castelinho Vinhos Quinta do Castelinho Reserva 2008, Douro Valley ($16.30)

Small red fruits, a good amount of oak without being excessive. Medium body, nice ripe fruity taste, emphasis is on balance over power. Nicely made and quite enjoyable with any BBQ fare. (GBQc)

87 Real Companhia Velha Evel Tinto 2007, Douro ($14.95) This modern-style Douro shows lots of upfront black and red fruits, all built on a medium-bodied frame.

Tannins and acid are all in check. Medium in length, it is well suited for grilled chouriço or Italian fennel sausage. (ES)

/United / States

87 Mirassou Pinot Noir 2009, California ($12.95)

90 Ironstone Obsession Symphony 2008, California ($9.95/375 ml)

A well priced, easy-drinking Pinot. Ruby colour with a candied raspberry nose, medium bodied, fruity, slightly sweet and jammy with enough tannin to give it structure. Easy drinking. (TA)

Symphony is the name of a California grape variety produced by crossing Grenache Gris with Muscat of Alexandria. And it really delivers that exotic Muscat character. It has a fragrant orange blossom nose and dry peach flavour — very elegant with good length. (TA)

Canadian Issue highlights

/Beer / Garrison Brewing Imperial IPA, Halifax, Nova Scotia ($5.50/500 ml)

89 De Loach Chardonnay 2009, Russian River Valley, California ($22)

An unfiltered, full bodied, extremely hoppy and tasty beer with complex fruity aromas and full flavours of rich caramel, grapefruit and a great hop bitterness on the long lasting finish. Very nice and balanced with great character. (GB)

Fresh nose of delicate citrus notes and white fruits (peach, pear), oak is perceptible but well measured. Nice in the mouth, fresh and perfectly balanced. Drink now. (GBQc)

88 Meditrina Red Wine, Oregon ($19.95)

Dieu du Ciel Route des Epices Peppercorn Rye Beer, Quebec ($17.99/6 pack)

A non-vintage blend of Oregon Pinot Noir, Columbia Valley Syrah and Paso Robles Zinfandel, named for the Roman goddess of health, longevity and wine. Deep purple-ruby in colour, the wine has a fruity, plummy nose with a note of leather; it’s spicy with a sweet note of black fruits.

Medium-bodied, easy drinking and soft on the palate. (TA)

Dark copper with aromas of raisin, plum, and molasses, immediate flavours of caramel with a prominent spiciness and a touch of citrus. The peppercorn flavour lingers. Unique, and probably a beer you either love or don’t. (GB)

88 JoieFarm Riesling 2009, Okanagan ($34) Floral aromas with hints of green apple and fresh flavours of grapefruit, peach and a hint of spice. Soft with a hint of sweetness. Quite quaffable and a nice match with the traditional Riesling pairings of Thai, Indian, Vietnamese, Malaysian and Laotian cuisine. (GB)

85 Union Red 2009, Niagara ($13.95) Here is an unpretentious quaffable red that is meant for your typical spaghetti and meatball dinner, or with some Italian charcuterie, with rustic bread and olive oil. Light bodied, this smooth and juicy blend of Pinot Noir, Cabernet and Merlot serves up strawberries, cassis and pepper.

It is ready to drink. (ES)

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90 Tantalus Riesling 2009, Okanagan ($32.99) A deliciously refreshing and mouth-watering wine from a winery that has established itself as the benchmark for BC Riesling. Bright and lively with flavours of apple, pear and citrus peel with a bracing acidity and just a hint of residual sugar on the focused finish. Great with ceviche or dishes with a little heat. (GB) tidingsmag.com

\\ 65

final Word

by tony aspler

//in praise of muscadet

With the tidal waves of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc that wash across Canada these days it’s easy to overlook a white wine that is eminently food friendly and priced for value.

I’m talking about Muscadet. The name sounds as if it should taste like a junior version of Muscat, but nothing could be further from Detroit. Muscadet is a brisk white wine with a minerally, floral, citrus flavour that is the perfect partner for oysters specifically and seafood generally.

Muscadet is the largest still white wine appellation in France covering 12,000 hectares at the western end of the Loire Valley. The region produces some 600,000 hectolitres of wine from the Melon de Bourgogne grape. If that suggests to you that its original home was Burgundy, you’d be correct. Melon’s Burgundian origins date back to the beginnings of the 17th century. It became the dominant variety in the Loire after the ferociously cold winter of 1709, which destroyed all the red varieties planted there. The area from Nantes going west is subjected to the vicissitudes of the cold winds that blow off the Atlantic Ocean.

According to research done by the great French ampelographer, Pierre Galet, it was the Sun King himself, Louis XIV, who ordered the Loire region to be replanted with Muscadent blanc — the Melon de Bourgogne that has long disappeared from Burgundy’s wine fields.

Through DNA analysis it was discovered that Melon de Bourgogne is a cross between the Pinot family and a medieval grape called Gouais Blanc that has also gone the way of the dodo.

I had always thought that Muscadet was a wine to be consumed fresh and young, within a year of its vintage date. That was before I visited the Salon des Vins de Loire in Angers St Laud in January. In one vast hall there were 600 winemakers, over 130 of them producing Muscadet from the region’s four main ap-

66 // May/June 2011

pellations. At the booth of Pierre Luneau Papin I tasted a series of five Muscadets under the Le ‘L’ d’Or label from 2009 back to 1997. The 1999 that had spent eleven months on the lees tasted like a Grand Cru Chablis. And the 1997 (one the great Loire vintages) came on like a rich Meursault.

The secret of Muscadet that gives it its ability to age is a winemaking technique called sur lie. The wine is left in the tank or barrel on its dead yeast cells for a matter of months, which gives it more flavour and complexity as well as a hint of pétillance, a prickle on the tongue.

Like most advances in wine technology this flavour-enhancing procedure was discovered by accident. Muscadet producers were in the habit of setting aside a preferred barrel for a special occasion, like a family wedding. This reserved wine became known as the ‘honeymoon barrel’

and because of its length of time on the lees it developed more flavour, body and mouthfeel. The enzymes released during this process inhibited oxidation allowing the wine to age (think of champagne that is left on the lees before it’s disgorged).

Many of the Muscadet sur lie wines I tasted at the Salon des Vins had remained on their lees for many months.

The exception was a wine Pierre Luneau Papin called Pueri Solis (Children of the Sun) 2005 that had spent 42 months on its lees. The wine had a rich minerally peachy flavour with a lovely caressing mouthfeel.

So next time you go looking for a white wine to have with fish, shellfish or oysters don’t overlook the humble Muscadet. And if it has sur lie on the label, try laying it down for a few years. You’ll be as surprised as I was. •

illustration: FRancesco Gallé, www.francescogalle.com

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