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//features 20// south coast by Michael Pinkus
Did you know Ontario’s south coast is making wine?
22// pomme
by rick vansickle A great fascination with apple cider.
36
25// sweet retreat by merle rosenstein
Re-imagine your yard as an outdoor oasis. Perfect for parties, or an intimate evening for two.
28// dry
by Carolyn evans-hammond Add a dash of martini to your next party.
30// bash
by rosemary mantini You’ve just finished creating your outdoor oasis. Time for a party.
32// great
by brenda mcmillan A punch from the Douro’s dry wines.
36// dos copas by tod stewart
A voyage into the overflowing fields of Spain.
42// Vive la cuisine Française
by duncan holmes Fête la belle vie.
46// civl law by Gille Bois
How the Languedoc is changing the face of AOC.
46 30 tidingsmag.com
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//Ă la carte 7// Contributors 8// from the editor 11// Conversations Letters to the editor.
13// feed
Tom Delarzac
14// Umami Joanne Will
17// lazy mixologist Crystal Luxmore
18// Bon Vivant Peter Rockwell
49// Must try
robert hausner
51// Matter of taste sheila swerling-puritt
52// Davine
Gurvinder Bhatia
55// Bouquet Garni Nancy Johnson
55
66// final word Tony Aspler
14
//notes 50// the mav notes
54// the food notes
An appetizing selection of food-friendly faves.
58// The Buying Guide
Top wines from around the world scored.
argentina // p. 58 Australia // p. 58-59 Canada // p. 59-60 chile // p. 60-61 France // p. 61 Germany // p. 61 italy // p. 61-63
49 4 // May/June 2013
New Zealand // p. 63-64 South Africa // p. 64 spain // p. 64 United States // p. 64 spirits // p. 64-65 beer // p. 65
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Celebrating 40 years as Canada’s premier wine club
Opimian on cd We continue our 40th celebrations, which extend beyond this nation’s border; estates and wineries with whom we have built strong, lasting relationships have joined in the fun. This month, Château Canet has crafted a special cuvée in honour of our anniversary. Floris and Victoria Lemstra, owners of Château Canet, sent us this letter. Look for Château Canet, 1973 Jubilée, 2011, AOC Minervois on Cellar Offering 218.
Happy Birt
hday Opim
ian, Last year, O pimian disc retely men 40th birthd tioned that ay and as su 2013 would ch a rather was to head be their special year to the cella . My initial r; as a wine too much ab reaction maker you out what to never have get as a birt leaving for to worry a party, whi hday presen le Victoria t. Generally to the cella is still prim before r an ping hersel A predictabl d select a few bottles f, I head from our pr e present pe ivate collect rhaps but on ion. e that is us When it ca ually apprec me to Opim iated! ian, we quic a few bottl kly realized es to the 20 that if we w ,000+ mem Yet we very ere to ship bers, our ce much wante llar would birthday an d to deliver be dry! d decided to a special pr es create a un We were lo ique Opimia ent to mark this oking for a n Birthday blend with much oak, wine. fruit, body, something a little but sophisticat not too ed yet very As a result, drinkable. after many a ‘birthday the 1973 O blending se pimian Jubi ssion’ we ca lée. me up When you make a win e for a spec stressful an ia l occasion, d I really pu it is t my soul in sure it refle it. In this ca always a bit cted the re lationship be se I wanted and it mem tween Chât to be bers. Albeit eau Canet, only four ye our relations Opimian ars old, we hip. We kn very much ow how ch wines to th ap allenging it e Canadian can be to ge preciate consumer Opimian do t our and es to make the route so are very grateful for al l much simpl Many happ er. y returns O pimian and w e hope to sh À la votre! are many of them.... Floris & Vi ctoria Lem stra
Share the experience with your friends and family today and you could earn a coupon* for a FREE case of wine! Call 1.800.361.9421 or visit opim.ca
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//online
//contributors
+ more on tidingsmag.com
Follow us on twitter and tumblr Quenchbytidings.tumblr.com twitter.com/quenchbytidings As a writer in pursuit of her passions, Brenda McMillan enjoys wine and food adventures locally and far afield. Her stories turn up in Canadian and American publications, but also in courses, as she teaches travel writing online at U of T SCS. A bohemian at heart, she leaves the country at the drop of a pen.
Feature Tod Stewart reveals what inspires winemakers to craft the wine we love to drink.
travel Find out what style of cuisine the world craves.
Cooking challenge Take a bite of delicious Coconut Crème Caramel.
wine tasting club Learn what makes Negroamaro a very popular grape.
New videos Merle Rosenstein is a freelance travel, food and beverage writer in Toronto with a passion for purple and a yen for the open road. She is also staff writer for Vancouver-based Canadian Traveller magazine with published articles in wherecanada.ca, AOL Travel Canada, Edible Toronto and TAPs magazine. You can catch up with Merle on Twitter and at www.newfreelancewriter.wordpress.com.
Rosemary Mantini began her career as a serious academic. One day at a garden party, she was struck in the head by a Champagne cork. When she returned to her senses, she found that she’d become an epicure. And she quite liked it.
Visit videos.quenchbytidings.com to see contributing editor, Gurvinder Bhatia on the Grapeful Palate.
Plus!
Original recipes; a daily serving of food
and drink news and views; culinary tips, tricks and techniques.
Next Month In Tidings 13th annual Canadian issue The giants of Canadian wine. where are they now? Tasting From Niagara to Prince Edward County to Nova Scotia A Sparkling revolution Beer and wine hybrids — yes you read right
In May 2012, Tony Aspler was the first Canadian wine writer to be elected to the New York Media Wine Writers Hall of Fame. He is currently working on the fourth Ezra Brant wine murder mystery, Nightmare in Napa. His new book, with Quebec photographer Jean-Francois Bergeron, Canadian Wineries will be out this fall.
The Pairing of recipes to music Light wines and beer cocktails ... And So Much More
tidingsmag.com
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//from the editor may/june 2013 Issue # 311
i want to enjoy it A couple of issues back I talked about building my backyard deck. Like with all great projects it went over schedule and over budget. I’m not comparing it to the coliseum, but its scope was grander than I first anticipated — my eyes were bigger than my wallet. Looking back at the project, it’s not even the wasted money that bothers me. I never really got to enjoy the fruits of my labour. Before I knew it there were two feet of snow covering every inch of my yard. I was hugely disappointed. Spring is here now. The trees are budding and my neighbours are slowly fading into the green. I have my yard again. But why do I feel like I still have a ton of work to do? Because I do — coincidentally it’s that phrase that got me into this mess in the first place. We always want to enhance our leisure experience. As more of us start to spend a bulk of our time at home, we look to the backyard to be all things. An oasis with a party-ready theme. BBQs are bought. Patio stones are swept. Kindling is cut for the s’mores. Our yards are open for business. Or are they. They’re never quite there. So in this issue we decided to help you along. Summer seems so short in Canada that we need to get the most out of our yards. So start at page 25, where Merle Rosenstein highlights some interesting ways to dress up your outdoor oasis. Then, once you have it all done, you’ll want to have a party. Carolyn Evans-Hammond will inspire your with martinis, while associate editor Rosemary Mantini helps you plan the perfect bash. And, of course, you’ll need some wine for that. Run to our buying guide, on page 58, for some more ideas. That should give you a boost.
Editor-in-chief
Aldo Parise editor@tidingsmag.com Associate Editor
Rosemary Mantini rmantini@tidingsmag.com Contributing Editors
Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart Contributing food Editor
Nancy Johnson Columnists
Tony Aspler, Peter Rockwell, Tom de Larzac, Joanne Will, Sheila Swerling-Puritt, Crystal Luxmore, Robert Hausner Contributors
Sean Wood, Harry Hertscheg, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Rick VanSickle, Carolyn Evans-Hammond, Merle Rosenstein, Tim Pawsey, Michael Pinkus, Duncan Holmes, Brenda McMillan Tasters
Tony Aspler, Rick VanSickle, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Jonathan Smithe, Ron Liteplo and Gurvinder Bhatia COPY DESK
Lee Springer, Kathy Sinclair Creative by Paris Associates Art Direction
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ww+Labs, cmyk design, studio karibü Illustrations & Photography
Matt Daley, Francesco Gallé, Push/Stop Studio, august photography, Westen Photo Studio Cover Design
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8 // May/June 2013
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Please enjoy responsibly.
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conversations\\
Now inth our 40 year Kylix Media CFO
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Senior Account Executive Jacquie Rankin: jrankin@dvtail.com 9 05-886-6640 ext 304 www.tidingsmag.com
I so look forward to the fresh taste of tomatoes as one of the sure signs of summer. Tom De Larzac’s recipe for roasted tomatoes sounds delicious. As soon as my tomatoes have ripened, I’m planning on giving it a go. Carrie Tama, Toronto
.. Leave it to Tidings to always point me in a direction I never thought of going myself. Swiss wine? ...
Michael Pinkus’ wonderful take on the classic poem, “The Night Before Christmas” made me laugh at loud. As for the cork vs screwcap debate, is it really still an issue? I understand that some wines really do benefit from one over the other. I just don’t understand why there still seems to be a stigma attached to screwcaps. Who cares what seals the wine in? What matters is what’s in the bottle! Kate Martins, Vancouver
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Kylix Media, 5165 Sherbrooke St. West, Suite 414, Montreal, Quebec, H4A 1T6, Tel: 514.481.6606, Fax: 514.481.9699. Subscription Rates: Canada: $36 per year, $58 per 2 years, USA: $55 per year, Other: $75 per year. Single Copies: $5.95. Tidings, Canada’s Food & Wine Magazine, a registered trademark of Kylix Media, is published 8 times a year: (February/March, April, May/June, July/August, September, October, November, December/January). Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. © 2013 Kylix Media Inc. Printed in Canada. ISSN-0228-6157. Publications Mail Registration No. 40063855. Member of the Canadian Federation of Independent Business.
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Leave it to Tidings to always point me in a direction I never thought of going myself. Swiss wine? Of course, it’s obvious now, but it wasn’t before. My local liquor store is so full of the usual French, Italian, German and Spanish offerings, looking elsewhere never once occurred to me. Perry Brandon, email
Re: “One Lump or Two” by Duncan Holmes. I’m not of British heritage, and have only experienced high tea on one occasion, but I am a true lover of crumpets and all of the other lovely munchies that are typically served during this special meal. I’m so glad that Mr. Holmes provided so many recipes. Now, I have no excuse not to host my own high tea. Betty Jakovis, email
Material chosen for publication may be edited for clarity and fit. Please e-mail your comments and questions to editor@tidingsmag.com.
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cinco salmon\\
Having lived in the United States for some years opened me up to a variety of foods that I might not have expected, cultural events that I hadn’t experienced, and traditions that I didn’t know were even traditions. Cinco de Mayo, or simply May 5th, is a day when many Americans celebrate Mexico’s heritage and pride. This is not Mexico’s official independence day, but stateside it is celebrated as if it were. People take this opportunity to get together with friends and family, gather around a margarita mixer (some just need to justify buying the gadget), and indulge in a variety of Mexican-inspired dishes. Tex-Mex may be the more appropriate description for most of the dishes, but I don’t want to burst anyone’s bubble. Everyone has their version of the best salsa, or the best guacamole, and it’s this that makes trying to interpret another culture’s food so much fun. You can try the same thing 20 times, and each time it may be a little different, and each time may be better than the last. It doesn’t even have to be 20 different people making it; you add a little more of this and a little less of that, and the flavour changes right in front of you. Mexican food, at least the basics of salsa, tacos and burritos, are great for trying out new flavour combinations, since they are more ideas than a fixed profile. As long as you throw on some salsa, guacamole and a little sour cream, you will be eating the colours of the Mexican flag (red, green and white). You may even feel that their heritage should be celebrated more often.
by tom De larzac
cinco de mayo salmon
1 lb salmon fillet, cut into 4 even pieces approximately 1 inch thick 1 can diced tomatoes (500ml) 1 shallot, diced 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 1/4 cup cilantro, chopped 2 tbsp lime juice 1 tsp each salt and pepper 2 tbsp oil, for cooking (you can also use butter)
1. In a bowl, mix all ingredients except the oil. Let marinate for 2 to 4 hours.
2. Put a pan onto medium-high heat; when hot, add the oil,
then add the salmon, making sure to reserve the marinade. Let salmon cook on one side for 3 to 4 minutes or when a golden brown crust is formed. 3. Flip salmon to other side let cook for another 2 minutes. 4. Strain reserved marinade and add all ingredients to the pan; continue cooking for another 3 to 4 minutes. 5. Remove from pan when salmon is cooked through (different thicknesses will result in different timings). …… Serve with Spanish rice, or lightly grilled seasonal vegetables. Don’t forget the cold cerveza.
tidingsmag.com
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umami
small farm success\\
by joanne will
Katy Ehrlich
When we talk about the dedicated people who produce our food, conversation often turns to the demise of small farms and the rise of conglomerates — but some are making it work with a fresh approach. Katy and John Ehrlich have been operating a communitysupported agriculture model (CSA) at Alderlea Farm in BC’s beautiful Cowichan Valley for a decade. Clients who purchase a share of the crop receive organic produce throughout the 24-week season. This includes everything that can be grown in their climate: from greens such as lettuce, spinach, kale, chard, chinese cabbage and bok choy to potatoes, carrots, beets, leeks, corn, garlic, parsley and cilantro. Then there’s the winter squash selection, peppers, eggplant, cabbage and plenty of tomatoes. Picking up produce isn’t the only reason folks visit Alderlea Farm. The couple hosts the public at a range of on-site events and in their popular café. “We’re always thinking of new things to produce off the farm,” says Katy. “The possibilities are exciting. Having the café and the kitchen allows us to make and sell valueadded products such as frozen foods. We also make lots of sauerkraut and tomato sauce. It’s really something that makes farming more sustainable economically, and we’re grateful for that.” For the past three years, a stinging nettle festival — celebrating this wild-growing and highly nutritious food of spring — has been held at the farm with tours, cooking demonstrations and even a nettle-wine-making demo.
14 // May/June 2013
“Before that, we had a borscht festival for eight years, which was a lot of fun too,” says Katy. “We love having the festivals. And we’re working towards incorporating mini farm experiences into the café, so we can offer hay rides for families, and gardening demonstrations. Our program is always changing and developing to what the community is asking for, and what the farm is asking for. “People enjoy coming to the farm because it’s very relaxing, and it’s a beautiful view. They touch with that inner desire to connect with where their food comes from. It’s a place where the children love to play while the parents enjoy meeting their friends. Children learn where their food actually comes from, so later in life they have that foundation and familiarity with food and agriculture when making their future decisions about food.” Last fall, a thousand guests gathered at Alderlea for the Vancouver Island Feast of Fields harvest celebration, an annual fundraiser for the non-profit FarmFolk CityFolk society. Participants dined outdoors on cuisine prepared by local chefs. “It’s a really wonderful community place,” says Katy. “It’s nice to see people enjoying themselves, and the food is made from what we grow on the farm. Our certified organic vegetables are bio-dynamic, and the meat we raise on the farm is part of that too. So it’s an all-around healthy experience. People arrive feeling a little tense, and when they leave they’re grateful for the breath of fresh air — and we like that a lot.”
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Pork Chops
with Caramelized Apple Cream Sauce Prep: 5 min
Cook Time: 15 min
4
(450g) boneless pork chops
1 tbsp
(15mL) unsalted butter
1 tbsp
(15mL) brown sugar
1
large apple cored, diced
1/2 carton
(240mL) CAMPBELL’S
Serves: 4
1. Place pork chops in a non-stick frying pan over medium-high heat. When chops are fully cooked and golden brown on both sides (approximately 5 minutes each side), remove from pan and set aside on a dish. 2. Add butter and brown sugar to the non-stick pan used for the chops. Over medium-high heat cook mixture for 2 minutes until smooth. Add the diced apple and continue to cook for 5 minutes over mediumhigh heat until apples are golden brown, coated with sauce and caramelized. 3. In a separate sauce pan add stock, orange juice, apple cider vinegar, orange zest and thyme and simmer gently for 3 minutes.
Stock First Cream stock ™
1 tbsp
(15mL) orange juice
1 tbsp
(15mL) apple cider vinegar
2 tsp
(10mL) orange zest
1 tbsp
(15mL) fresh thyme
4. Arrange hot cooked pork chops on plates, drizzle caramelized apples over pork chops and spoon cream sauce on top. Per serving: 300 Calories, 17g Fat, 250mg Sodium, 13g Carbohydrate, 1g Dietary Fibre, 24g Protein, 4% Daily Value Calcium
© 2013 Campbell Company of Canada
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tea-riffic\\
When I was a little girl, one of my most cherished Christmas gifts was a miniature tea set. Set in a blue velvet box was a pink ceramic pot with white flowers, matching cups and saucers, a sugar bowl and a milk pitcher. It was beautiful, and it reminded me of one of the most special events in my life as a six-year-old: tea parties with my grandmother. Tea has held a special place in my heart, and in my kitchen, ever since. So when I found out about a workshop on tea cocktails, held by Toronto’s Death Row Meals (a charity that hosts food and drink events), I knew I had to go. The event was at Herbal Infusions, a charming, skinny tea shop in downtown Toronto. One wall is lined with tall glass canisters dreamed up by tea sommelier Dan Johanis. For cocktails, Johanis works with Trevor Burnett, a mixologist who owns Tipicular Fixin’s, a cocktail consultancy. Tea is a natural fit for cocktails, says Burnett: “Instead of adding bitters, you just over-steep the tea to bring out its natural bitterness. “Plus tea has lots of botanicals and flavours that complement those in white spirits, so if you’re using Bombay Sapphire — it’s got lemon peel and coriander — reach for an oolong tea with cinnamon, coriander and lemon added to it.” To make a vodka meringue, Burnett chooses a nutty, pungent almond tea that looks more like a hearty granola than tea leaves, using egg whites, a tea simple syrup and lemon juice. The faint pink meringue was like a fluffy almond kiss, sending Grey Goose’s nutty notes soaring. The meringue looked like hard work for this lazy mixologist, but the beauty of the cocktails is that they usually reduce ingredients and steps by adding flavour, sweetness and bittering qualities at once. How? “The best way of using tea flavours in cocktails is to make a simple syrup,” says Johanis. And the formula’s easy: bring four cups of water to a boil, steep half a cup of loose-leaf tea for 1.5 hours, then dissolve four cups of sugar or organic cane syrup.
+ Visit tidingsmag.com/drinks/ for more drink recipes
lazy mixologist
by crystal luxmore
I loved the simplicity of the Mo-teato — instead of muddling mint, Burnett used a mint-and-lavender-tea simple syrup and finished with a sprig of mint. I only wanted to make one change — the lavender’s perfume seemed to subdue the fresh mint flavour I love in a mojito, so I sniffed a few varieties of mint teas and chose Coolmint Liquorice. Made with liquorice root, the aroma was coolmint gum with a spicy depth. The simple syrup brightened my mojito and the liquorice added a fennel-like spiciness. Verdict? Yum. Plus, with just seconds, not minutes, of muddling, the mojitos are a treat to make for friends — it’s time for a tea party revival.
Coolmint Mo-teato
1 oz simple syrup 1 oz freshly squeezed lime juice 2 oz Bacardi White Rum Crushed ice Soda water to top Sprig of mint Pour all ingredients into a tall, skinny glass. Stir to combine. Add crushed ice. Top with soda water, garnish with a sprig of mint and add a long straw. (Trevor’s tip: slap the mint against your hand a few times to get your room, and your guests, minty with anticipation.)
tidingsmag.com
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As a foodie, I love food and wine matches. Question is, do you always have to have wine with a great meal? Well, it’s hard to deny that when it comes to pairing liquids and solids, wine has the edge over its competition in the booze world. Since it’s made with fruit, is low in alcohol, and has many documented health benefits (drunk in moderation) and a direct link to Mother Nature, many of you will probably be in agreement with those who say wine is the closest adult beverage to food. I say the real symmetry lies in the parallel histories of both the winemaking and culinary industries of the major wine-producing countries around the world — especially those in Europe. There has always been a mutual appreciation between chefs and winemakers, and as both creative endeavours evolved in countries like France, Italy and Spain, regional philosophies about what goes with what emerged over the centuries. That’s why the best food and wine-pairing advice anyone worth their salt (and a pinch of pepper) can give is that when in doubt, combine wine with a menu that originates in the same place. Some countries play both sides of the plate. Think Germany. It’s as famous for making beer as it is wine, and both make a classic match with German dishes. In most New-World countries, food innovations preceded the emergence of their wine culture, and that’s led to beer, spirits and wine being invited to Californian, Australian and Canadian tables. Nations with limited, or no, wine production have replaced vino with beer when it comes time to strap on the feed bag. Just look to Belgium. A typical resto in Brussels will have a beer menu the size of the Toronto phone book, with just a few wine selections tossed in for a bit of balance. Then you have the UK. While English pub grub may get the thumbs-down from foodies like you, nothing goes better with than a pint of ale. Head north to Scotland and you’re just as apt to have a glass of single malt scotch (which goes great with cheese, BTW) offered as a meal enhancer.
18 // May/June 2013
bon vivant
by peter rockwell
A friend posted a video on Facebook of a guy opening a bottle of wine with a shoe. Was that real or just fancy editing? You have to give it to Facebook. Where else can you find classy wine-opening tips in between images of scowling cats and a regurgitation of whatever pops into Mr Sulu’s in-box? Here in the 21st century, as long as you can hold your iPhone steady you’ve got a chance to become a viral Steven Spielberg, and in a minor sense, dude and his shoe did just that. Like you, one of my dear friends posted that short video on my wall a few weeks ago. If your internet connections weren’t so inclined, let me set it up for you. Using a simple one-camera shot, a French wine-lover dressed in a white sweater gives you, the viewer, a step-by-step demonstration of how to open a corked bottle of red Bordeaux with a man’s dress shoe that looks disturbingly like it’s made of black suede. With the cap cleanly cut to reveal the top of the cork, François gives the butt of the bottle a few dainty whacks before resting the bottle inside the tail end of the shoe and tapping the heel against a wall. After a few hits, voila: the cork rises out of the bottle far enough to allow our hero to pull it from the neck by hand. Back to your question: did it really happen, or was the whole thing done thanks to a few simple camera tricks? While I respect both wine and my foot-apparel collection way too much to try and simulate the stunt myself, I’ve heard of someone doing the same on the side of a tree. Though I doubt it would work with every bottle (some corks are in there pretty tight), both the cushioning effect of the shoe heel and the tree bark will protect the glass from breaking, while the sudden jerking of the vino will get the cork moving outward as it shoots back and forth. Won’t all that aggression damage the wine? Probably, but if you’re a host with the most (except for a corkscrew), taking off your shoe just might make you the life of the party.
+ Ask your questions at bonvivant@tidingsmag.com
Illustration: Matt Daley/Shinypliers.com
aeration and screw capping\\
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south co by michael Pinkus
I’m going to assume you’ve already heard of Ontario’s South Coast and just jump right to the tasting notes … oh wait, guess who just made an ass out of you and me? So let’s just start at the beginning, shall we? It’s not that Ontario was crying out for another official region (they’ve already got three) but the South Coast has seen a boon in recent years and that means it’s something to look into. The region starts, as the name would suggest, along the south coast of Lake Ontario and stretches along the north-east coast of Lake Erie from Dunnville in the east to Port Stanley in the west. It consists of 11 wineries (seven currently open with four more on the way) plus cideries, breweries and five growers. Wine styles and type are more diverse than in any other of Ontario’s three regions, from grape wines to fruit wines, a kilndrying showpiece winery to an actual Brew Farm that grows its own barley and hops. “Wine tourism is part of a mix of local agricultural, recreational and other tourism interests that are being marketed,” says Phil Ryan of Villa Nova Estate Winery, someone who has been in the area growing vines since 1996. It’s interesting to note that the South Coast isn’t all that new, and when speaking with Jamie Quai, of Quai de Vin, you realize this region has been building for a lot longer than all the recent hype would suggest. “We have plantings dating back over 40 years that were originally sourced from Inniskillin’s original nursery blocks,” he reports. And as to the question of why here, “[It] was the ideal balance of lake effect, longer growing season and higher heat units than Niagara.” Jamie sees the region as a culmination of various factors that help to make it unique and ready for agri-tourism. “Lake Erie is not Lake Ontario. It behaves differently, our growing season is staggered, we are finding small meso-climates for grapes and tender fruit in what is traditionally cash crop country … There is still a very tangible sense of ‘ruralness’ and rural pride that many tourists fall in love with.” Kim Flintoft of Rush Creek Wines puts it in more flowery terms but his words still have the same impact and lure: “It has a romance with [those] that like the adventure and discovery of finding our wineries along the shoreline.” Kim Ludwig of Wooden Bear L, Norfolk County’s only fruit winery, confirms that the South Coast is looking to obtain DVA (Designated Viticultural Area) status. “We are working on a DVA and have been in contact with VQA regarding this. We are quite close — we need a few more acres of vines for production. We have covered off the production of quality wines, as four winer-
20 // May/June 2013
ies have won awards at Intervin, All Canadian Wine Championships, and one had their wine chosen for the Ontario Legislature.” He also explains how the area got its start: “It was once a large producer of tobacco […] When the industry started to fail, many farmers in the area were looking for other crops to produce. Some of us chose grapes and other fruits to produce wine.”
Kim and Wendy Flintoft from Rush Creek Wines
Although it’s very exciting to see a new official region, Jamie Quai wants to see a slow and steady approach to the marketing so that they avoid the pitfall that befell Prince Edward County as it was proclaimed the next big thing well before its time. “The region will be best served by evolving slowly, spread[ing] the word slowly … let[ting] the momentum build organically ... We’ve seen these ‘movements’ before. My concern is that we, as a region, get [too much] hype, become a vogue thing, and just as quickly become passé.” So let’s take his advice — don’t rush out to the South Coast; keep it in the back of your mind. But if you’re looking for something new to explore, well you know where to go.
oast Burning Kiln Riesling 2011 ($19.95)
Rush Creek NV Rockin’ Raspberry ($15)
An appassimento style winery that dries grapes in repurposed tobacco kilns. In this version 20% of the fruit is dried, giving the nose a pleasant pear aroma and a palate laced with lemon drop candy and lime pith; nice full mouthfeel with a lingering finish.
This is a wine that has sweet and sour fighting for supremacy. There’s a great raspberry nose that really doesn’t prepare you for the sour/ bitter tartness that fresh raspberries can have, but then there’s a seam of sweet fruit, too. Like biting into a fresh … you know.
Burning Kiln Strip Room 2011 ($24.95)
Rush Creek NV Spiced Apple ($13.50)
A 60/40 blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, of which all the Merlot sees the inside of a drying kiln. Nice blackberry, black cherry character with a touch of cedar on the finish.
Made using Paula Reds and Ginger Goldens along with an assortment of spices. This is like drinking cinnamon apple pie filling, and that cinnamon really has bite.
Burning Kiln Cab Frank 2011 ($24.95)
Rush Creek NV Decadence ($13.50)
The name is a takeoff on Ontario’s popular red and on farmer Frank, who grows the grapes. 100% of these grapes are dried in kiln. A nose of tobacco, black cherry and a hint of raspberry all follow onto the palate with tobacco taking over. This one needs a little time to come around.
This is a chocolate-strawberry wine, and it delivers in spades. It’s exactly what it says it is: tart strawberry mixed with sweet chocolate and a long finish — it’s a seesaw battle in your mouth you’ll want to experience again and again.
Villa Nova GPM 2011 ($12.50) The initials stand for Gamay (50%), Pinot Noir (30%) and Marquette (20%); a red wine with hints of raspberry, black pepper, sour cherry and some pretty elevated acidity. This one needs some food as an accompaniment.
Dover Vineyards Dam 1 Frisky Beaver, Frisky White 2010 ($13.95) A very Canadian name that adds a little playfulness. A white blend of Chardonnay, Chardonnay Musqué, Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc that has a sweet core with the outside edges screaming of Chardonnay. A bi-polar wine that doesn’t know what it wants to be, but it works.
Dover Vineyards Smoke & Gamble Red 2010 ($19.95) A blend of the big 3 leading with Merlot and ending with Cabernet Sauvignon; nice dry wine with raspberry, strawberry and smoke notes (as the name would suggest).
Wooden Bear L NV Golden Crisp ($15) A wine made from 2 popular apple types: golden gala and honey crisp. No doubt it tastes of apple but lacks the sweetness you’d expect. Nicely balanced, flavourful and dry.
Wooden Bear L NV Apple Cherry ($15) This one is a mix of apples infused with 20% cherry juice. Sour Montmorency cherries drag you along from start to finish while the apple balances it on a fine edge — this is a delicious alternative to dry rosé.
Wooden Bear L Cherry 2011 ($14.95) This really is a wine to be experienced. The nose has hints of cinnamon and pepper seasoning its Montmorency cherry core — that cherry flavour runs right through but then on the finish you’ll find cinnamon, dark chocolate and cherry — it’s a wine that’ll have you asking, “how’d they do that?”
jamie quai
Quai du Vin Estate Winery Riesling 2011 ($13.50) Estate-grown Riesling that has a nice sweetness and a touch of the exotic. This is a real easy drinking wine.
Quai du Vin Estate Winery Maple 2012 ($17.50/375 ml) What is that saying? Oh yeah, “shut the front door” — this is amazing, you expect sweet and syrupy but instead you get essence of maple sugar candy, with an easy mouthfeel and lovely finish. It’s a small-glass dessert wine so it’s a good thing it doesn’t oxidize quickly; it can remain in the fridge for 2 to 3 weeks without losing flavour.
Ramblin’ Road Brewery Farm ($13/6 pack) They make/grow everything to make beer right on the farm. Three styles of beer are made: Lager, Ale and Pilsner … pick your poison, so to speak — they’re all quite good. •
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pomme by rick vansickle
Oh, the signs were there all along: The extravagant apple cider-themed dinners at his tony restaurant on the waterfront in Burlington, Ontario. The British heritage and the fact that he was raised on the myriad ciders offered in the pubs of London. And his name on Twitter, of course: @ciderseeker. It would appear that it was Chris Haworth’s destiny, but it was shocking nonetheless when he came home from a hard night of cooking and told his wife Amy and two young children that he was quitting his job as executive chef of Spencer’s at the Waterfront to chase his dream of making apple cider in a province that is just beginning to show interest in fermented apples. “She said, ‘What? Are you crazy?’” Haworth recalls with a chuckle. “But she’s a totally, 100 per cent supporter of the project.” His obsession with cider, and his plan to make it from apple orchards planted in Niagara, didn’t happen overnight. The Manchester-born chef trained under the so-called godfather of modern cooking, Marco Pierre White, a British celebrity chef, restaurateur and television personality, at the famous Quo Vadis restaurant in London. Haworth spent eight years in White’s kitchens but when he met a Canadian girl he had a choice to make — come to Canada with her and stay in the relationship or break it off. “I came here kicking and screaming,” says Haworth. He made the decision to follow his heart and set his sights on the restaurants of Toronto. As fate would have it, he had a chance meeting with the owners of what was referred to then as “Project X” on the waterfront of Burlington. He was given the opportunity to build a kitchen and menu from the ground up that would establish what is now the crown jewel in the Landmark Group’s stable of fine restaurants.
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For eight years Haworth was the executive chef of Spencer’s, one of the most important chef jobs in Southern Ontario, often cooking for over 500 diners a day. But always fermenting in the back of his mind was cider. “My true love came to me four years ago on a trip to the County Cider Company (in Prince Edward County). We were overlooking Waupoos Island, sipping cider, eating a pizza and loving life,” he says. “That’s when the idea came into my head. Cider started consuming my life.” His “idea” was to buy land in Niagara, plant an orchard with a variety of cider apples and get in on the ground floor of a burgeoning industry that’s on the verge of taking off. Haworth has his first 7,000 litres of cider ready to bottle. It’s a dry, crisp, fruity style of cider made from a combination of Ontario apples including Cortland, golden Russet, McIntosh, Empire, and Northern Spy that he’s calling West Avenue Spy Cider. It will sell for around $3 for a 341 ml bottle along with a draught style version made for bars and pubs. He’s also making 3,000 litres of a cider called West Avenue that will be aged in used bourbon barrels from Louisville, Tennessee, and packaged in 750 ml bottles that will sell for $12 a bottle. Hard apple cider is a hot category these days in Ontario. The Ontario Ministry of Agriculture (OMA), states the fledgling cider industry is increasing by 15 per cent a year worldwide, a steady climb at the expense of sluggish growth for mainstream beer in mature markets.
According to the OMA:
»» New cider drinkers are sophisticated craft beer drinkers; »» Cider drinkers are split 50/50 between men and women; »» Cider drinkers are following a beverage trend toward reduced sweetness, smaller portions, healthier products (cider is gluten free), and a desire to drink artisan, craft, local and natural products.
This isn’t news to Nick Sutcliffe, owner of Pommies Cider, which has exploded on the scene. “People are looking for quality products. The cooler (segment) is losing market growth and consumers are looking for a natural, refreshing product.” Sutcliffe quit his job in sales and marketing to concentrate all his efforts on the new Pommies Cider, deliciously dry, and refreshing — presented in an eye-catching bottle. Only released in the LCBO last September, it outsold all ciders on the shelf for two weeks in January, says Sutcliffe. Like Haworth, Sutcliffe comes from a British background. “The first drink I ever had was a cider in the UK,” he says. “It’s part of the culture there.” He’s setting out to make it part of the culture in Ontario. “The rebirth of a cider revolution is afoot. We’re right at the beginning of the growth. I foresee cider growing considerably over the next 15 years.” He says that’s evidenced by the fact the big breweries and drinks companies are flooding the market with mass-produced versions in all shapes, styles and flavours. But that is not the direction Sutcliffe wants to take. He and 13 other Ontario and perry (pear cider) producers have formed a group, the Ontario Craft Cider Association, to help direct the new industry forward and establish some rules of quality that consumers will come to trust. First and foremost is the fruit content. While most commercial versions are made from fruit concentrate, ciders made under the association’s banner will permit only 100 per cent juice from Ontario apple trees (with exceptions for a bad harvest such as 2012 that left local apple trees decimated). The association wants to help change the rules for cideries in getting their product to market and encourage the liquor boards to understand what this golden drink is all about. As it stands, says Sutcliffe, cider gets lumped in with the coolers and fruit-flavoured drinks at stores and positioned somewhere between beer and wine. At the LCBO only four ciders — County Cider (Prince Edward County), Thornbury Premium Apple Cider (Nobleton), and Puddicombe Sir Isaac Pear Cider (Niagara) — are available with Spirit Tree Estate Cidery (Caledon) expected to join the shelves this year.
While still at his job as executive chef at Spencer’s in Burlington, Chris Haworth was the mastermind behind two exquisite cider dinners where he paired his dishes with a selection of Ontario ciders. Here are some of the highlights:
Spirit Tree Crabapple Blush 2010 with Lobster Tortellini, Mango and Lemon Grass The blush cider from Spirit Tree showed cranberry-cherry fruits on the palate that lifted the subtle lobster and mango in the dish.
Spirit Tree Estate Reserve Cider served with Veal Loin with Pork Belly Gnocchi, Squash and Mustard Greens This is a French-style, full-bodied cider that spent 6 months in oak barrels to bring out the vanilla, clove and nutmeg spice flavours to go with apple and caramel. It was a special treat that meshed expertly with the savoury flavours and fatty texture of the pork belly and veal.
Pommies Dry Cider with a Winter Salad of Valentine Radish, Turnip, Romelia Cheese and Almonds The almonds and turnips folded nicely into the apple-fresh Pommies, which added a zesty twist to the salad.
County Cider CHOA Ice Cider 2009 served with a Mélange of Duck, Parfait, Confit and Foie Gras with Quince and Hazelnut This is a big cider (12% alcohol) that’s aged in various wood barrels. This match was a perfect complement. The cider’s smoked apple flavours, orange peel, butterscotch cream and vanilla were particularly delicious with the foie gras, not only from a textural standpoint, but also for its contrasting flavours. The cider brought a new dimension to the foie gras, rather than just complementing it.
Coffin Ridge Forbidden Fruit Organic Cider with Waldorf Sorbet made with Celery and Blue d’Elizabeth Cheese and served with Grapes and Walnut Brittle The creative take on the classic Waldorf salad was paired nicely with this Grey County cider that uses all organically grown apples from neighbouring growers. Sorbet and cider? Absolutely! The crisp, fresh apples and juicy citrus notes played beautifully with the blue cheese, grapes and walnut brittle.
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“Cider is the kind of drink that if you put it into the hands of consumers, they are enamoured with it,” says Sutcliffe. From the back patio at the County Cider Company, set on the brow of the Waupoos escarpment near Picton in Prince Edward County, you get a million-dollar view of Lake Ontario. County Cider owner and cidermaster, Grant Howes, is affectionately called the “grandfather” of the Ontario cider industry and has virtually assisted every maker in the province and beyond. And for good reason. He has toughed it out in an industry that was almost made extinct during the cooler revolution of the early 2000s that saw many a producer pack it in and move on to other products. “I’m just the one silly enough and bull-headed enough to keep going,” says Howes. He and his partner Jenifer Dean live in the 1832 Conrad David House, an area landmark, which is an excellent example of Regency Cottage architecture.
Howes, whose background is in financial consultation, took the family orchards from “an apple farm with a cidery to a cidery with an apple farm in 2001,” though the family had been making small amounts since 1995. The move from high finance in downtown Vancouver, where he lived prior to moving to Prince Edward County, to full-time farmer in Waupoos was “quite a lifestyle change” but one that is starting to pay dividends for Howes. “We’re growing at 50 per cent a year. It’s just fantastic,” he says. “For the first time the industry has momentum.”
grant howes from county cider company
west avenue cider’s Chris Haworth
Next door, the property’s picturesque 1832 renovated stone pig barn houses the tasting room and retail store, along with a lunch program that features freshly made pizza from an outdoor stone pizza oven that pairs brilliantly with any number of the ciders available for purchase. The family farm Howes owns has been producing apples since 1850 in a region renowned for its wine, food and breathtaking views of Lake Ontario. They grow over 15 varieties of apples at two different orchards, which comprise approximately 40 acres of apple trees (approximately 15,000 trees). The orchards produce roughly 1,600 tonnes of apples each year. Among the varieties grown to create their ciders are Bulmer’s Norman, Ida Red, Russets, Northern Spy, Yarlington Mill, Dabinett, Michelin and Tremlett’s Bitter. These apples provide tannins and acidity — key ingredients when making quality cider.
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Howes points to the growing trend worldwide for ciders and, in particular, the US, which, he says, was up 27 per cent on volume last year and 31 per cent on dollar value. It’s an industry that’s already firmly established in Quebec, New York, Michigan, New Hampshire and other apple-producing states, as well as in BC (especially on Vancouver Island) and is slowly coming back to the Okanagan Valley, where most of the apple orchards were bulldozed to make way for more lucrative vineyards. County Cider has one of the most diverse portfolios in Ontario. Aside from the flagship brand, there’s the semi-sweet and sparkling Waupoos Cider; the Prince Edward County Ice Cider, made from apples frozen on the tree; the Sweet Sparkling Cider; a couple of flavoured ciders; and the newest cider in the portfolio, to be released later this year, called A Tortured Path Cider, an organic cider made from 50 per cent bittersweet apples and sweeter golden Russet apples that will be high in tannin and built more like a red wine. There are still many hurdles for the cider industry in Ontario. Distribution is a pain, explains Howes. With the province’s archaic liquor law, he can’t transport his cask cider from Prince Edward County to Toronto while hitching a ride with a local brewery truck. It must be driven in separately, which means a special trip for Howes whenever a keg runs out. There also issues with taxation and shelf exposure at the LCBO for the Ontario-made ciders. Cider doesn’t get the same love that VQA wines get. “It’s been a long haul,” says Howes. As they say, it’s been a long, strange trip … but it’s about to get a whole lot better. •
sweet retreat Re-imagine your yard as an outdoor oasis. Perfect for parties, or an intimate evening for two. by Merle Rosenstein
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A weekend trip to Buffalo,
New York changed the way I view my humble backyard. Last summer I toured 30 private gardens, part of the National Garden Festival, the largest free garden walk in the United States. The festival, held annually from late June to late July, beautifies the revitalized urban centre. No two are alike. Hidden in the corner of one yard, pink and purple perennial borders framed a textured stone patio, with room for two oversized teak loungers. Flowing water features, found art, concrete sculptures, meandering pea gravel paths and a wooden pergola contributed to the whimsical feel. A second garden featured three outdoor areas: a romantic koi pond encircled by native grasses filled the front section of the yard, while a formal dining area and a covered, torch-lit tiki bar were ready-made for outdoor entertaining. Leaving my yard in Toronto bare was no longer an option. The blooms in Buffalo inspired me to create an inviting, private outdoor retreat. The tired plot of tomatoes and ancient grouping of pink and red roses had to go. Being a neophyte gardener, and lacking expertise in home décor, I knew I’d need help. So I talked to two Canadian interior designers and a landscape architect to unearth the trends in outdoor design for summer 2013. I like to entertain outdoors and wanted a space that could do double duty for a simple weekend party for 50 and a secluded Sunday brunch for two. To round out my entertaining plan, I sought out an easy to prepare menu. Chef Brayden Kozak, co-owner of The Three Boars Eatery in Edmonton, obliged with winning party fare to enjoy outside with friends and family. You too can create an outdoor oasis with the right furniture, accessories and decorating details. Small accessories and a pleasing colour palate prepare the space for an intimate gathering or big shindig. Landscape design and furniture placement can foster quiet conversation or lively discussion. Think of your yard as a canvas ready for covering. Make the most of top trends for summer 2013.
bring the indoors outside
A key trend over the last few years has involved extending the indoors outside to broaden living and entertaining space. Jenny Moon, of Jenny Moon Design in Toronto, explains that people are staying home more and are making the investment to create “a private escape or beautify their backyard.” Landscape architect Janet Rosenberg, principal and founder of Janet Rosenberg and Studio, cites global warming as a reason for the popularity of outdoor living spaces. “I think that in some ways our summers are much more enjoyable,” she says. Rosenberg also points to improvements in the type of outdoor furniture available. “When I started designing, we couldn’t even find decent benches to put in people’s yards. Availability of club chairs, chaise lounges and canopies has really made a difference in how people have been able to relax in their backyards.” There are many ways to connect the inside of the house to the outside. As Moon explains, “In general people want to have a nice relationship from the indoors to the outdoors and create a seamless extension.” Moon advises using the “same design sensibility”
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by repeating similar elements such as colour and furniture style, and bringing some of the natural material from the backyard indoors. A kitchen with two French doors that open out to the yard and a stone floor that carries right through creates a nice flow.
comfort and convenience
To make the most of their outdoor space, people are installing the same amenities and conveniences that they have indoors such as stoves, lighting, mirrors and artwork. Moon finds that “more and more people are looking to create a whole, independent, self-sufficient area and are putting in built-in grills complete with prepping cooking areas, bars, a lot of water features and stone patio fireplaces.” According to Rosenberg, people are adding elements that allow them to extend the season and to use their backyards differently.
sophisticated neutrals
In terms of colour, sophisticated neutrals are going to be big. According to Moon, neutrals will cover a broader range such as grey green and grey blue, and will be richer in tones or hues. “Very strong or bold hints of colour such as oranges, yellows and teals are going to be really, really popular,” she says. Geele Soroka, principal at Sublime Interior Design in Vancouver suggests a very strong ‘Bali theme’ for relaxed outdoor living relying on soft neutral colours with colour coming from “the floral or the accent pieces.”
urban gardens and energy efficiency
Conservation of energy throughout the home is a popular theme. Also popular is the idea of urban gardens. Rosenberg remarks that, “people are very interested in the notion of urban agriculture and growing some of their own vegetables and herbs. Herbs are easy to grow in containers, and enhance flavour.” Greenery planted directly on top of roofs, terraces and garages reduces storm water run-off and can create a beautiful view, she says.
form follows function
When creating your signature space there are many decisions to make. Will you use pea gravel or flagstone flooring? Teak or wicker furniture? Perennial or annual borders? Four factors to consider are function, size, design style and focus. How do you want to use your outdoor space? Do you have kids and dogs and need a play area? Are you planning a pool? Do you throw a lot of outdoor parties or prefer tea for two? Are you into urban agriculture and need a plot to grow your vegetables and herbs? Do you like to read the Saturday paper in a secluded area? A second factor to consider is size. Will you go with one space to meet all of your needs or can you divide it into separate spots? Moon explains that, “if limited by size, you may want to create a more multifunctional area where you have a bit more flexibility and can move furniture around according to how you want to use the space at that moment.” Your preferred style for the inside of your home, whether contemporary, traditional or formal, can be carried outside by adding furniture and accessories in a similar style.
When developing a design for the outdoors, it’s important to start with a focal point. Moon recommends “creating a point of interest that anchors everything else in the space such as a water feature, a fire pit, a stone fireplace, or a set of four lounging chairs in a more intimate group of seating.” A focal point highlights special features in your yard.
getting the party started
The date for your warm-weather party is set and your outdoor space primed. You are ready to roll, but still have a few things to consider. How will you set the mood? Where and how will you arrange the furniture? Will you define separate seating areas? How will you personalize the space and add special touches? Creating the right atmosphere for guests is easy with music, candles and lighting. According to Moon, “lighting is a great way to create mood.” Bright lighting encourages more activity and lively conversation. Lower ambient-type lighting with candles or light torches creates a more intimate mood.
Furniture placement can also impact interaction in the space. A setting with two to four lounge chairs, grouped around a coffee table and an area rug, encourages quiet dialogue. Additional privacy can be achieved using hedges, tall perennial borders or perforated or slat screens as walls. A formal dining space with a large table is conducive to lively conversation and interaction. Soroka recommends placing two large sectionals facing each other with two big cocktail tables. Sectionals encourage people to sit next to and interact with each other. Soften brick walls with durable wall art or hanging mirrors. Decorative pillows in your favourite colours add a distinctive touch. You can also use accessories such as patterned plates, glasses, napkins, vases and tablecloths or an antique washtub to fill with ice and drinks. Moon likes her spaces very minimal with a neutral palate, and injects some of her own personality with blue and white flowers. She places blue and white floral arrangements on side tables and coffee tables outdoors, and brings similar arrangements indoors.
entertaining with ease
According to landscape architect Janet Rosenberg, people are adding elements (like patio fireplaces) that allow them to extend the season and to use their backyards differently.
Enhance the outdoor eating experience with easy sipping beverages made in advance. A pitcher of mojitos, sangria or Long Island iced tea quickly quenches thirst on a hot evening. Finger foods served at room temperature such as pita bread, vegetables and dips are simple to prepare and won’t land in partygoer’s laps. Assigning a friend to take over the barbecue allows the chef to mingle among the crowd. Chef Brayden Kozak put together a crowd-pleasing party menu to be eaten outdoors. “A backyard barbecue wouldn’t be complete without chicken wings for everyone to snack on. I like to marinate mine in garlic, cilantro, olive oil, lemon juice and a splash of fish sauce. Grilled or roasted in the oven, they’re going to be fantastic,” he says. Kozak is also keen on bone-in beef rib roast, to “feed an army of friends and family.” He suggests rubbing the meat down with extra virgin olive oil blended with garlic and fresh herbs (thyme, parsley, rosemary), and roasting it on the barbecue at a low heat until it reaches an internal temperature of 125˚F, letting it rest for 20 minutes and then diving in. As for side dishes, Kozak is “really loving grain salads right now. Pearled barley salad with pickled shallot, tomatoes and arugula, lightly dressed with lemon juice and olive oil and finished with an aged hard cheese.” To end the meal, Kozak declares, “You can’t go wrong with a citrus curd pie topped with meringue. Lemon is classic; grapefruit is amazing and tastes like Creamsicles.” For optimal imbibing, Kozak favours Amaro, an Italian herbal liqueur with a bittersweet flavour. “We’re really hooked on Amaro, and [are] seeing quite a few pop up in our favourite restaurants. Amaro and soda would be insanely refreshing on a hot summer day.” Kozak also recommends a Negroni or beer. “I’m a sucker for a good pale ale or hoppy IPA.” You now have all of the important elements for the perfect backyard bash, a lively atmosphere, comfortable seating, signature details reflecting your individual style and a delicious makeahead menu. It’s time to sit back, relax and enjoy. •
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Dry by carolyn evans-hammond There’s nothing so irksome to eastern European ears as the words, “all vodkas taste the same.” Except maybe the words, “all vodkas should taste neutral.” Yet in North America and Western Europe, the spirit is thought to be best when it’s tasteless and odourless — liquid nothing with a hit. A good vodka though, much like a well-made Fino sherry, is not just smooth and balanced but also nuanced with subtlety and endowed with serious length. I tasted Slava the other day, an ultra premium vodka from Ukraine now available in Canada, which drives this point home beautifully. It’s complex and starts all cool and smooth, like a wave of chill stroking the palate. Then it expands with flavours of warm toast, vanilla bean, hints of aniseed and mint, before ending with an almost creamy almond finish that lingers for ages. Gorgeous stuff. And when you’re drinking vodka practically straight, which is the case with a vodka martini, flavour matters. It’s not just about the hit — or it certainly shouldn’t be.
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The old, classic vodka martini is made thus: Add 1 1/2 ounces of vodka and 3/4 ounces of dry vermouth in a shaker with ice. Stir or shake. Then strain into a wellchilled martini glass garnished with an olive or a twist of lemon. Of course, purists would argue there’s no such thing as a vodka martini. The original drink was always made with gin not vodka. Or if you were Ernest Hemingway in the late 1940s, you would garnish your martini with a single, frozen cocktail onion — a smart, non-diluting chiller for the drink. But the classic martini is in decline — neither gin nor vodka. “People don’t drink dry vermouth anymore,” says John Vellinga, president of Slava Vodka. Instead, people are selecting their favourite ingredients — from key limes to cheesecake — adding vodka, shaking it over ice, and presto, a new martini. All it takes is the typical conical glass. The stemware is an important point. The classic martini glass held about two to four ounces of liquid. Now, that’s more
the exception than the rule. Much like a boozy Big Gulp, glasses are super-sized, holding up to 10 or 12 ounces of liquid. And no one seems to bat an eyelash at the garishness of it all. Aside from lack of elegance in guzzling a gargantuan martini, it’s impractical. Drink a couple of those and you could quickly end up wearing a lampshade on your head and dancing naked, which could prove socially fatal. And of course, a martini the size of a Nerf football cut in half is tasteless, quite literally. It will invariably become the temperature of tepid soup before you finish it. No one likes a lukewarm martini. “You don’t want to nurse a martini,” says Vellinga, who recently met with me to demonstrate how to make the perfect martini and other cocktails. “You drink it and lay off for a while because the beauty of a martini is the balance between the icy cold temperature and the heat of the alcohol.” A petite martini made well and taken at the perfect time and place can certainly be a beautiful thing. My favourite spot in
Toronto for one is at The Roof Lounge on the 18th floor of the Park Hyatt hotel. Veteran bartender Joe Gomes there is a legend — he has been tending that bar for 53 years and knows how to pour a proper drink. I’m also mad about his sidecar. It’s another classic cocktail made with one part Cointreau, one part lemon bar mix, and one part brandy, shaken over ice and strained into a small martini glass. While I, personally, have not gone off dry vermouth, gin, nor the smaller stemware, I am old enough to know there is no accounting for personal taste. And rather than frown on variations, it’s more fun to muse about them. On that note, here are a few of the more intriguing and curious martini cocktails I’ve come across. Starting with a couple that are more like desserts than anything else, and almost certainly would have Hemingway turning over in his grave.
key lime pie martini Taken from Coastalliving.com.
4 2 2
tbsp vanilla flavoured vodka tbsp key lime juice tbsp simple syrup 1/3 cup heavy cream 1/2 cup ice Graham cracker crumbs Honey Cinnamon stick Lime wedge Line the rim of a martini glass with honey and dip it into graham cracker crumbs to coat the rim. Combine first 5 ingredients in a martini shaker. Shake well until very cold. Strain into martini glass and garnish with cinnamon stick and lime wedge.
ginger, lemon and lime martini Created by Giada de Laurentiis of The Food Network.
ice cubes
1 large lime sliced into 4 1/4-inch thick slices 1 cup water 1/2 cup fresh lime juice (from 4 large limes)
ginger simple syrup
1 cup water 1 cup sugar 1 4-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and diced into 1/4-inch pieces 1 cup lemon-flavoured vodka 1/2 cup sparkling water, chilled For the ice cubes:
Cut each lime slice in quarters and place into 16 ice cube molds. Combine the water and lime juice and pour over the lime slices. Freeze for at least 4 hours. For the syrup:
In a small saucepan, combine the water, sugar, and ginger over medium heat. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sugar has dissolved. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the mixture to cool, about 20 minutes. Cover the pan and refrigerate for 4 hours. Chill 4 martini glasses in the freezer. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add the vodka, ginger syrup, and sparkling water. Shake for 10 seconds and strain the mixture into the prepared glasses. Place 1 to 2 lime-flavoured ice cubes in each glass and serve.
the vesper martini
Hands down, my favourite martini variation. The recipe is from Bemelman’s Bar at the Carlyle Hotel in New York. Forget the traditional style of recipe here; let’s just quote the The Huffington Post because they wrote it so well: “The Vesper Martini is their little secret here. You have to request it from the bartender — they’ll know, don’t worry. It’s one part vodka, three parts gin, a splash of white Lillet and a lemon twist. If this were a fancy dinner party, gin would be the eccentric professor who’s tipped one too many back, vodka his waifish lover smoothing things out, and white Lillet (sweet, citrusy) the lovely fat lady who tries to crack jokes to lift the mood. The effect is a tortured, effervescent drink that will get you smashed and make you talk about Proust.” •
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by rosemary mantini
bash
Ahhh, the merry month of May — spring flowers, warm, sunny days … Go ahead, toss the wellies to the back of the closet. It’s time to plan the perfect backyard party. But how do you create the most memorable party of the year? Luckily I had the opportunity to ask Daniel Clairet, chef and co-owner of Toronto’s Daniel et Daniel, what tips and tricks a host should keep in mind when planning a great bash.
trick mother nature
The snow has finally melted, and the first thing most of us want to do is shunt off the winter wear and head outdoors. Daniel reminds me, however, that the weather in springtime may not be your friend. “The rain can pour and pour,” he says, “which makes grass soggy and difficult to party on!” He suggests renting a tent with side flaps and a floor. Set up a few space heaters, too. Now, you’re ready for anything.
a theme
Every impressive party sports a theme. For a spring do, focus on fun and colour. Fresh and bright yellows, greens and oranges should do the trick. Decorate with gerbera daisies, cherry blossoms and forsythia branches. Hire a band, a DJ or rely on your iPod list — they’re all good. Daniel also suggests that there are awesome streaming music apps for all occasions. Don’t forget to invite your neighbours!
food and drink
“Be present for your guests,” Daniel advises. Don’t get stuck working at your own party. Either prepare food and drinks ahead, or better yet, hire a chef and wait staff. Are you serving cocktails and hors d’oeuvres during the dinner hour? Make sure you’ve told your guests ahead of time so they can tame the worst of their hunger pangs before your party. Most importantly, find out what your guests’ food restrictions are. As Daniel points out, having someone react to something at your party “tends to dampen the mood.” Small bites that are passed around during the party are
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a big hit, especially if those tasty apps are served in interesting vessels. “It’s all about the food station,” Daniel reminds me. Wow your guests by using disposable bamboo boats and forks, wing bowls, mini french fry baskets and galvanized pails for presenting food. Stay on trend — both sweet and savoury doughnuts are super hot this year. Here are more impressive recipes to try.
asparagus galette Makes 6 small galettes
Courtesy of Daniel Clairet, Daniel et Daniel.
1 package store-bought puff pastry 1 onion, julienned 1 tbsp canola oil 1 bunch asparagus 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 small shallot, minced 1 tbsp olive oil 500 g ricotta 2 eggs Flour for dusting 1 small package goat cheese, crumbled
1. Roll out puff pastry on a lightly floured surface to a 1/8 of an inch thickness. Using a 4 1/2 inch round cutter, cut out circles, lay them on a baking tray and refrigerate until ready to use. 2. In a small saucepan heat a tbsp of canola oil and add julienned onions. Cook over low heat to caramelize then set aside. 3. Cut just the tips off the asparagus spears to make about 1 1/2 inch little spears. Lightly steam the tips by placing them in a dish with a bit of water in the microwave for about 1 minute. Reserve these for the tops of your galettes. Chop the remaining asparagus and set aside. 4. Heat the olive oil in a small pan on the stove and add the shallots, sauté a few minutes and add garlic and chopped up asparagus. Sauté until softened, add salt and pepper to taste.
vin brûlé Who hasn’t looked forward to a spring get-together only to have the weather turn from warm to downright freezing? If Jack Frost crashes your party, this drink will chase him away. Pour it into mugs and spread the warmth.
5. In a small bowl whisk together the ricotta and 1 egg.
Season with salt and pepper to taste. Put mixture in a piping bag fitted with a small tip. 6. In a small bowl or cup beat the remaining egg with a bit of water and a pinch of salt to make an egg wash. 7. On a lightly floured surface lay out your puff pastry rounds. Brush with egg wash and set about a half a tbsp of caramelized onion in the centre of the round. Next put 1 1/2 tbsp of the sautéed asparagus mixture on top of your onions. 8. Using both hands, pick up a side of the round between your thumbs and forefingers. Pleat the edges until you have folded up all the way around the galette. 9. Pipe the ricotta mixture into the galettes to fill them to the top. Brush the sides with egg wash and refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours. 10. Bake in a preheated 375˚F oven for about 10 minutes. Turn the tray and bake for 10 minutes more or until golden brown. Top with reserved asparagus tips (if they are really thick asparagus cut in half lengthwise) and crumbled goat cheese. Return to the oven for another 5 to 7 minutes until cheese is melted.
1 bottle dry red wine 4 sticks cinnamon Peel of 1 orange 3 tbsp sugar Pour wine into a large pot, then add remaining ingredients. Cover the pot and bring to a boil. Uncover and ignite the wine mixture with a match. Serve after the flame has died back.
quinoa and vegetable salad-stuffed cucumbers Lisa Thiele is the gluten-free entertainer and creator of the blog, With Style & Grace. Her mission is to create beautiful & delicious food that you’d never know was gluten-free. For more of her recipes, visit withstyleandgraceblog.com.
1 2 3 1
1/2 4 1
cup quinoa, uncooked zucchini, quartered bell peppers (red, yellow, orange), bite sized cup cherry tomatoes, halved cup black (or green) olives, sliced tbsp olive oil tsp garlic powder
1. Cook the quinoa according to package directions. Transfer
cooked quinoa to a large glass bowl. Add cut, sliced and diced ingredients to it. 2. Add olive oil, garlic powder, and salt and pepper. Mix together and set aside, allowing all the ingredients to soak up the flavour. For the taste test — if it’s too dry, add more olive oil. 3. With a melon baller, carefully scoop out the insides. Be careful not to go through the bottom! It will look like a cucumber bowl. 4. Fill each cucumber with approximately 1 to 2 tbsp of the quinoa salad. Enjoy.
sangria especial There’s nothing like a glass of sangria to make me feel like I’m kicking back in Spain.
3/4 1/2
cup brandy cup Cointreau 4 cups red wine Juice of 3 lemons Sugar to taste 2 oranges, sliced 1 lemon, sliced 3/4 cup cherries, pitted Mix the first 5 ingredients together in a pitcher. Add remaining 3 ingredients. Pour into your prettiest iced glasses. •
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Wayne Gretzky was one in 1977. Adele was one in 2007. As rising stars back then, they were destined for greatness because they had the necessary talent, skills, drive and dedication. Sports and music aside, some of the wineries making the wines we love now were at one point rising stars in their own right. So, who among today’s undiscovered wineries could be tomorrow’s success stories? Portugal, with its splendid indigenous grapes, is an obvious place to start. Apart from Touriga Nacional and Alvarino most Portuguese varietals seem unfamiliar, so wine from this country may smell and taste a little different. I crave this kind of diversity the same way I hunger for butter chicken, pad Thai and pupusas. And yes, Portuguese wines are that exotic — and addictive — thanks to their unique grapes. Douro reds, for instance, are made from the same varietals as Port wines, so they sport a signature dustiness when you stick your nose in the glass. It reminds me of the smell of the air — of sunshine on schist — in the region. Although Douro reds also have aromas of familiar fruits and berries, it is this lovely dustiness that sets these wines apart, and makes me seek them out. It is the same with other regions and varietals: their grapes offer something deliciously different in the glass. Many yearn for this, but how to find it? Like every wine-producing country, Portugal has a plethora of little-known wineries. The ones below share a dedication to, and a passion for, every aspect of winemaking. Add stellar winemakers with a solid commitment to produce the best wines possible while maintaining the personality of indigenous grapes, and you have a winning combination. Plus, and not surprisingly, their wines have been quietly but consistently winning awards and receiving local recognition. What I find interesting is that these wineries happen to either have family ownership and participation, or belong to a dedicated individual who is intimately involved, so personal pride is also a factor. These are a few among many little-known wineries that produce excellent wine. It certainly pays when you are looking at a restaurant’s wine list to choose an unfamiliar name from Portugal. It might be like picking Adele to sing at your birthday party.
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Quinta do Couquinho Encostas do Gavião Tinto 2009 ($16) A multiple medal winner, this Douro wine is lightly oaked from older barrels. It’s an everyday wine by and for a newer generation, so expect to uncork it with pizza, pasta dishes, homemade burgers or chicken. It is a bit softer in acidity and tannins, but full flavoured and complex with fruit and floral aromas. A solid value.
Quinta do Couquinho Colheita 2009 ($12) Award winning since 1999, this suave wine is a blend of their best Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca grapes. Dusty fresh blueberry and plum flavours with a hint of stones make this well balanced wine ideal with pepper steak or, one of my favourite Portuguese dishes, roast kid with all the trimmings. Drink in the next 5 years.
Quinta do Couquinho Grand Reserva 2009 ($41) Winner of three international silver medals and a bronze in 2012, this wine was made by one of Portugal’s most impressive young oenologists, João Brito e Cunha. Old vine Port grapes Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Sousão were trodden by foot then aged for 14 months in French oak. Its dusty plum and cherry aromas express more of the same in the glass along with a stoney minerality, nuances of chocolate and vanilla, smooth tannins and a persistent finish. A discerning crowd pleaser. This is a powerful, dense wine that will be drinking well for 20 years with roast beef, flavourful stews or strong cheeses
g
great by Brenda mcmillan
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Monte da Raposinha Furtiva Lagrima 2008 ($31) João Ataíde, son of the owner, describes this wine as, “A really special wine for special occasions.” With only 1460 bottles made, it would be a shame to waste one on pizza when what it really calls for is more upscale fare. A very concentrated aroma of ripe fruit and hints of oak are followed by red fruit and blueberry flavours gently wrapped in a silky shawl of tannins. With a long and persistent finish, this lady remains elegant and restrained. She will evolve (as indeed, all of us will) over the next 7 years.
Monte da Raposinha Red 2010 ($15) This northern Alentejo winery’s decision to include international varietals seems counterintuitive, but was actually inspirational as conditions are ideal for them, and when blended with their indigenous grapes, the internationals edge great wines into stardom. With a slightly jammy nose, this brilliant ruby wine from Touriga Nacional, Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet and Syrah (their stable of red varietals) packs red fruit flavours with balsamic high notes and easy tannins. A winter fare of roast meats and stews, or spicy, cheesy pizza would be good matches. Try it also with grilled ribs.
Quinta dos Avidagos Tinto 2008 ($15) Grapes from family estates are from 80-year-old field blends and 30-year old single varietal plantings, so offer plenty of power and complexity. The blend of individual fermentations of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Franca and Tinta Barroca lends a typical dustiness to floral (almost perfumey) aromas. In the glass you’ll find abundant ripe fruit, some spiciness, soft tannins and a hint of Mars Bar (cocoa/caramel) wrapped in flowers. It needs to sit in a decanter for an hour.
Quinta dos Avidagos Branco 2011 ($10) This white is a subtle show stealer. Light floral and citrus aromas lead to soft minerals and lemon. Perfectly balanced, this wine works as a sipper but shines with herbed fish and fresh lemon or simply prepared seafood. Flatter this gal with cool, not cold temperatures.
Quinta dos Avidagos Quinta do Além Tanha Grande Reserva 2008 ($15) Under the Além Tanha name of one of their estates, Quinta dos Avidagos produces only 10,000 bottles of this elixir in the very best years. Aromatic and deep purple, this wine offers a solid structure, rich flavours of mature fruit (black cherries) and minerals, balanced tannins, loads of concentration and a long finish, all wrapped in a velvet cloak. This is an exceptional wine for the money and absolutely scrumptious, especially with a flavourful beef dish or aged cheeses. Drink now or cellar.
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Quevedo Oscar’s White 2011 ($10) Named for Oscar Quevedo, an enthusiastic globe and Internet-trotting marketer, this wine offers full aromas of pear and passion fruit calmed with lemon and spiced up with a touch of white pepper. Medium to full bodied, this vibrant white has a fine minerality and a clean citrus flavour that lingers on to excite the taste buds. Varietals are a blend of Viosinho, Rabigato and Malvasia. Roast a chicken! And call me over.
Quinta de Gomariz Espadeiro Rosé 2011 ($15) Winemaker António Sousa is a major factor in this Vinho Verde winery’s success. His unusual rosé made from 100% Espadeiro grapes opens like a rose when served at 8 to 10 degrees. Crisp and clean, with a fresh minerality and strawberry nuances, it is refreshing and light in a very pleasing way. A fair-weather lover, for sure. Chicken and fish from the grill are highly recommended.
Quevedo Oscar’s Rosé ($13)
Quinta de Gomariz Loureiro 2011 ($15)
A light pomegranate colour, this wine smells of roses and a red berry mix that becomes strawberries and raspberries with a pleasing touch of white pepper when you sip it. The acidity in this wine makes it a willing partner for many foods from salads and soups to barbecue fare. Although you may want to serve it very cold in hot weather, you’ll be doing yourself, and the wine, a disservice.
Loureiro’s beguiling nose of flowers, honey and citrus makes you want to dive into the glass. Well-balanced with a lemony minerality, this elegant wine wants to play with fish and seafood, and is light enough with 11.5% alcohol to allow an extra pour. Let it breathe and warm up a bit in the glass.
Monte da Raposinha Athayde Grande Escolha 2009 ($14) Although this wine is made from the same varietals as its entry-level sibling, the blend is different and this wine is aged for 14 months in new oak, which add notes of chocolate and spice to its fruity profile. Cozies up on the table to grilled steak.
Quevedo Claudia’s Red 2009 ($10) Oscar’s sister Claudia is the company’s talented winemaker. Purple defines this wine. The colour is a dark rich purple; aromas are of blackberries and purple plums with a spray of violets; flavours include spicy plums mixed with red berries. Tannins are sweet now (especially if you decant), but this wine will age well for another 3 years at least. Spiced sausages from the grill and steak with lots of pepper make great matches. •
Special Offer fOr TidingS readerS Art & Wine in eAstern sicily tour 5 - 10 June 2013
Enjoy a five day tour which combines the wild beauty of Eastern Sicily with some of the most famous Greek and Roman sites together with Wine Tasting in three vineyards recommended by a local expert.
More inforMation call +44 (0) 20 75 910 312
PriCe: £ 1695 (approx: $2700 cdn)
normal price: £ 1795 In the 8C BC the Greeks landed nearby to the flights not included historic Hotel where we will stay and from there moved south and inland to found Siracusa which became the capital of Magna Grecia. 5th - 10th June 2013 At its heyday it had a population of 200,000 and the most magnificent monuments. Contact details:
On the southern coast Agrigento is famous for theValley of the Temples some of which are the best preserved Greek Temples in the whole of Europe.
artstur italian art & culture
This Tour will be a most exhilarating experience, combining Wine, Food, Classical Antiquities and outstandingly beautiful scenery.
Tel: +44 (0) 20 75 910 312 artstur@googlemail.com www.artstur.com
55 exhibition road london, SW7 2pn
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by Tod stewart
Admittedly, I’m not one of those who “picks up” languages. In my half century shuffling around on planet Earth, I’ve done reasonably well (and there is room for argument here) using English to communicate with others having a grasp of this rather banal argot. However, the lack of success I’ve encountered attempting to acquire a second tongue has been matched only when trying to pick up other equally difficult things, like my typical bar tab, the pace of my thought process, or a supermodel. Yet I’ve found that in some cases, you really don’t need to tire yourself wrestling an entirely new dialect to the ground to be understood. A handful of well-chosen words can sometimes do it.
Dos Copas. Vino Tinto. Por Favor.
There’s a certain rhythm to those ones, don’t you think? And when in Spain, they do come in very handy because no matter what sort of distress you may (unlikely) find yourself in, sharing a glass of local red wine is the first step in setting things right. Not that I experienced any real unpleasantness in my romp around the northern part of the country (oh, sure, the rental car’s GPS occasionally displayed a somewhat droll sense of humour, once sending me along perilous backroads rather than the main highway; informing me, on another occasion, that the bungalow in the residential neighbourhood I was now parked in front of was, in fact, a luxury seaside hotel). But being able to order a drink in the native dialect certainly made me feel a bit more, um, native. What I brought back from my Iberian adventure was a single phrase, some wine, olive oil, a head stuffed with memories, and a desire to return rápidamente. What brought me there was a significant date. (No, not a date with a supermodel. I told you a few paragraphs ago how difficult that sort of thing is to get. Pay attention or we’ll never get through this.)
36 // May/June 2013
Though I’ve considered every birthday beyond my 15th a “big one,” the one skulking on my immediate horizon like some scythe-wielding spectre intoning, “come to papa,” was one I’d rather avoid than party with. Contrary to what the annoyingly peppy, fit-for-life types would have you believe, 50 is not the new 40. It’s the old 40. Luckily, I wouldn’t have to deal with this “slice of life” on my own, or even in Canada. My friend, Hugh, a wine buddy from university days (when dinosaurs roamed the earth) had, through no fault of his own, succumbed to the ravages of the ferocious 50 a few months prior. We decided that the only way to get on with it would involve good food and copious copas. So we flew to Spain.
Pig Out
“The rain in Spain stays mainly in the plain,” or so the song goes. But as far as I could tell, the rain in Spain stays mainly in the city of Bilbao. It was coming down with a certain enthusiasm by the time we (finally) made it to the Gran Hotel Domine Bilbao. I mean, how the hell was I supposed to know there were in fact two hotels called the Gran Hotel Bilbao in Bilbao? Guess which one we visited first? After a quick tour of the Guggenheim (my physical state being just shy of catatonic at this point), we headed back to the (right) hotel for some vino and vittles. The waiter brought an unopened bottle of chilled Manzanilla to the table, showed us the label and poured two generous glasses. I thought to myself that it was too bad a person had to fly 7,000 kilometres or so from home to get proper by-the-glass service. We also were served (again a generous serving) the famous jamón ibérico. The product of the (primarily) acorn-fed “black hoof” hog, it represents, without question, the sweetest song played in the key of pig (I just might have
ripped off Mario Batali with that line, so credit where credit is due). We gorged on this and other tapas to the point where actually having dinner, even several hours into the future, seemed ill advised. We’d have plenty of good dinners over the course of our journey, which started the next day.
A haro-ing experience
The sky, which had been a sullen gunmetal colour since our arrival in Bilbao, turned (seemingly on cue) a spectacular, cloudless azure on my “big day.” We were bunkered in at the charming Hotel Los Agustinos, in the city of Haro, in the heart of the famed La Rioja wine region. Founded in 1373 originally as a convent, Los Agustinos was also used as a military garrison, a hospital, a school, and a prison. For wine lovers, it is the perfect base camp. Not only is it comfortable, affordable, and graced with a fabulous restaurant in the form of Las Duelas, it’s about a 10-minute walk from some of Rioja’s — and Spain’s — heaviest hitters. Muga, Cune (or, more properly, CVNE), Bilbainas, La Rioja Alta, Roda, and R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia are all clustered around Haro’s train station within a stone’s throw of each other. As this was supposed to be a “birthday holiday” and not a “wine tour,” I exercised uncharacteristic restraint by not booking visits with every winery in the region. However, there were two that really piqued my interest. I’m a huge fan of the Dauro and Aubocassa olive oils produced by Bodegas Roda, but I’d never tried its wines. So Roda would be stop one. I also have a weak spot for R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia. Its traditionally crafted wines are made in a style that’s becoming increasingly rare as time goes by, particularly in the form of the winery’s well-aged whites and rosados. Plus, I’d met the company’s “energetic” (and those of you that have met her will agree that this is a hugely understated descriptor) managing director María José López de Heredia on several occasions in Toronto and was hoping to meet up with her again on her own turf. Although the two wineries literally abut one another, they really do represent markedly different worlds…and different wine styles.
Built in three separate phases and finally completed in 2001, Bodegas Roda is clearly the new kid on this rather illustrious block. The ultramodern facility sports sleek, minimalist architecture, 17 separate French oak fermentation vats (one for each of the winery’s vineyards), and a malolactic conversion room where automatic sensors continuously release a fine mist, which keeps the room at a constant 80 per cent humidity. In the winter, the entire room is opened so the cool air can naturally arrest the conversion. And you could probably safely eat off the floor of any of the winery’s rooms. The wines themselves, Roda, Roda I, Bodegas Roda Sella, and top-ofthe-line Cirsion all emphasize the character of the fruit and the vineyard, with oak nuances — often seen as the distinguishing feature of Rioja wines — buried well back in the mix. R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia, in stark contrast to Roda, has been around for well over 100 years, and has been worked by three generations of the López de Heredia family. The winery covers 53,076 square metres and boasts close to 13,000 Bordeaux oak barrels tucked away in 41 square metres of underground cellars (six, to be exact; each with a different name). In these dark, stone-lined vaults, the passage of time has literally been suspended and dust enshrouded bottles slumber undisturbed until they are called on to be shipped. Like many traditional Rioja bodegas, López de Heredia’s wines are given extended cellar aging, typically much longer than the legal minimum requirements. Even its rosado doesn’t typically hit the market until a good 10 years after the vintage. And while I didn’t have the pleasure of seeing María José López de Heredia in person, she did pass on a specially labelled bottle of 2001 Viña Tondonia to commemorate my own aging. Back at Las Duelas we tucked in to a fabulous dinner that started with dry sherry and finished with solera-aged brandy. Between these came more jamón ibérico, squid “noodles” in ink, perfectly cooked monkfish and fantastic lamb, a bottle of 2004 CVNE Imperial Gran Reserva and a 2000 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 904. In Spain, wine isn’t taxed, and the prices of these gems even at a restaurant were, in our opinion, dirt cheap. And it was great to
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reacquaint ourselves with Brandy de Jerez. In fact, a post-prandial snifter (which are large and liberally filled; no skimpy “bar shots” here) became an anticipated nightly ritual with Gran Duque d’Alba becoming our preferred poison. It’s too bad these fantastic spirits aren’t more widely represented in Canada.
We bid adiós to Haro and its charms the next morning and headed southwest to the town of Lerma. The impressive Parador de Lerma would act as base camp as we explored two impressive wineries in the Ribera del Duero region. Rioja certainly remains front-and-centre in the minds of many a wine lover, but Ribera has also earned a deserved reputation for powerful, complex wines. The interesting thing about these two regions is that they both use the black Tempranillo grape (called Tinta Fina del País in Ribera) as the backbone for their red wines, yet stylistically, the wines have practically nothing to do with each other (outside of being red). If Rioja reds represent the flamenco dancer, those of Ribero are the bullfighters. Having dined on the excellent milk-fed lamb the region is famous for the previous day, we headed south along the A-1, not realizing (but not at all upset to find) that more of the same was waiting at our next destination. Like some subterranean star rising from — or alien spacecraft alighting on — the soils just outside the town of Gumiel de Izán, Bodegas Portia is an awe-inspiring sight. The newest addition to the Grupo Faustino’s growing wine dynasty, Portia has already established itself as a force to be reckoned with. Its very first wine, Portia 2003, garnered the “Best Tempranillo in the World” accolade at an international Tempranillo Wine Competition held annually in Germany. Portia uses Tempranillo exclusively in all its wines. “It’s the best variety for the weather and soil conditions of the region,” explained Juan de la Cruz Burgos Fernández, Portia’s director, adding that most of the vines the winery harvests from are over 20 years old. Having toured the ultramodern facility (that I’m sure will some day be used as the set of a sci-fi movie), we sat down to a terrific lunch (featuring, of course, more ham and lamb) and tasting of Portia’s range of deep, intense, smoky reds. The word Portia, we were told, means “gift” in Latin. It’s also the name of the seventh moon of Uranus. And, not coincidentally, Portia is the seventh winery in the Grupo Faustino family. Having thoroughly enjoyed the hospitality shown to us at Portia, we headed back to Lerma and prepared for our final winery visit of this “non wine” holiday the next day. “In 800 metres, exit right … Exit right,” our GPS ordered in a feminine yet forceful tone. Of course, Hugh and I both knew that exiting right was clearly the wrong thing to do. The right thing to do was to continue to follow the A-1 south, past Portia, until it connected to the N-122, then head west. Now Hugh, being married, may have been conditioned to avoid the grief associated
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Agustín Santolaya, Technical Director at Roda
with not obeying a forceful, feminine voice. I, however, had no similar excuse. I suppose I’m just a sucker for forceful females. In any case, we wound up in a whole mess of bad and ended up arriving at our destination about a half hour late. Though I was tempted to have words with the GPS, she certainly succeeded in demonstrating who was boss and I feared further misguidance as we still had a fair bit of driving to do. It may have been a less than idyllic journey, but where we ended up was well worth the hassle. And where we ended up was at the legendary Vega Sicilia winery. With roots dating back to 1848, Vega Sicilia has become one of the most revered wineries not only in Spain, but around the world. The company has further expanded its profile in recent years with the addition of Bodegas Alion in Ribero, Bodegas Pintia in Toro, Tokaj Oremus in Hungary, and Macan, a new Vega-Rothschild joint-venture in Rioja. Needless to say, Vega doesn’t need to advertise. And though it is located right on the N-122, you’re likely to blow right by it (as we did) if you didn’t know what you were looking for (we didn’t). However, our efforts were rewarded by something most wine lovers will never have the opportunity to experience (our friends at R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia had previously put in a good word for us); a guided personal tour and tasting with export manager Purificación (Puri) Mancebo Lobete.
We explored the winery, amazed at how seamlessly its old and new parts meshed together. And we groaned audibly as we gazed upon row after row, stack after stack, of slumbering bottles awaiting their shipping date. The flagship wine, “Unico,” typically spends 10 years or more in such a state before being released, in limited quantities, to market. In less than perfect years it isn’t even made. How much money was tied up in this room, I wondered. And who insures it? As impressive as the winery was, it was what awaited in the lounge that really got us excited. With the exception of Alion, which trickles into Ontario now and again, I hadn’t ever tasted the wines of Vega Sicilia. Before us, open and ready for tasting, was the entire range, from the 100 per cent Furmint Oremus Mandolas 2010 Tokaj Dry, to the Pinta 2008, Alion 2008, Valbuena 5º, Unico 2002, and, finally, the Oremus Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos. Needless to say, a rather memorable tasting was had. Unfortunately, we had to make tracks soon after. Our next stop was a good four hours’ drive away and we were already running late. With the “wine” part of the trip wrapped up, we were ready to take on the gluttony portion in a city that is revered by gourmands around the globe.
food of the gods
If you’ve ever wanted to eat yourself into an irreversible coma, the beautiful Basque city of San Sebastián would be the ideal place to make it happen. Nestled on the coast of the Bay of Biscay about 20 clicks or so from the French border and about an hour east of Bilbao, Donostia (as it is know in the native Basque) is where food tweakers come to overdose. Barely 10 minutes’ walking time from our luxurious waterfront Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra and we were in Parte Vieja; the Old Part of the city. Lining the narrow streets we found restaurant crammed against restaurant crammed against bars crammed against other restaurants, with a few restaurants and bars jammed in between. It was like stumbling upon the Mother of all Food Fairs. Only this fair, as far as we could tell, never shut down. If Spain, as many will claim, is the gastronomic giant of the world, then San Sebastián is without question its heart. And while high-end canteens like the Michelin-star Arzak can certainly be found in San Sebastián, we filled up exclusively on pintxos (pinchos). Essentially Basque tapas, eateries in San Sebastián have flotillas of them displayed along the bar, and you can enjoyably gobble the night away moving from one establishment to the next. At Restaurante Izkiña we grazed on brochette de champiñon, tortilla de patatas, aubergine avec txistorra, bacalao frito, poulpe a la gallega, and,
Roda I 2006
Characterized by intense, dark fruit aromas, this wine also shows earthy/mineral notes with nuances of chocolate and a hint of balsamic. Mineral, dark plum, and hints of cigar tobacco on the palate with medium, sweet tannins on the long finish.
Cirsion 2009 Roda’s top-of-theline Cirsion made from old-vine fruit delivers a clinic in finesse and power. Intense, complex aromas reminiscent of black cherry, smoke, tobacco, exotic spice, mineral, and tar give way to a rich, ripe palate that shows ripe, spicy, forward fruit. Muscular yet balanced.
Bodegas R. López de Heredia Viña Gravonia Blanco 2003
The wines of R. López de Heredia are named after the specific vineyard where the fruit is sourced. Nutty, floral, and mildly spicy on the nose with some caramel overtones. Clean, crisp, yet showing some evident woody notes and a certain earthiness underpinning the candied lemon notes. At ten years old it’s still a baby.
Bodegas Roda Sela 2009 A blend of 89 per cent Tempranillo and 11 per cent Graciano, Roda’s ’09 Sela offers up ripe cherry fruit with a bare kiss of vanilla from 12 months of aging in French oak. Fresh, fruity, and immediately accessible with ripe, juicy fruit flavours and lingering vanilla.
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perhaps my favourite, gulas avec crevette. This dish, consisting of cooked, small eels (gulas or angulas) marinated in olive oil topped with a single shrimp may make the squeamish shudder, but it is absolutely delicious and not fishy in any way. In fact, if you didn’t know you were eating eels, you’d probably swear you were eating a particularly fine pasta dish. I couldn’t get enough of this stuff, to the point where the bartender serving me started giving me worried looks (perhaps thinking not so much of me as of his rapidly dwindling supply of gulas). In any case, the locals (and you, if you want the authentic experience) wash all this down with a Basque white (though there is some red produced) wine called txakoli (chacolí). Closely resembling Portuguese vinho verde, it is light, mildly spritzy, and low in alcohol. In this part of the country it is ubiquitous, abundant, and typically dispensed from a certain height with bartenders tipping bottles high above their heads, sending wine cascading into a tumbler in their free hand (or all over the floor if distracted). Rather than copas of vino tinto, we opted for tumblers of txakoli. Wandering from restaurant to restaurant, I was amazed not only at the sheer number of them, but by the fact that they all seemed prosperous. If this was indeed a country that was supposedly being brought to its knees, economically speaking, there was certainly little indication of it in the evening streets of San Sebastián. Granted it’s a popular city with tourists who no doubt dump some serious coin into local coffers, but the real reason for San Sebastián’s apparent health may be in what I’ll call a typically “Mediterranean mindset” characterized by the unwritten motto: “Living comes first; everything else follows.” The Basques apparently live to eat rather than eat to live. The population was out in droves during our two-day stay. The restaurants were jammed. People were singing, laughing, drinking and eating. And most definitely having a good time. Stuffy conservative economists may snort that this is exactly why countries like Spain and Greece are suffering. But I personally didn’t see much suffering going on in either of these countries. “Yes, the situation is not great,” you could almost hear the person on the street say, “but that doesn’t mean we should stop living.” Abandoning San Sebastián was no easy task. However, we had to get back to Bilbao to catch our flight home the next day. But Bilbao (with the rain in Spain mainly here again) provided us with one more gustatory splurge. The tasting menu at the Gran Hotel Domine Bilbao’s Doma restaurant was created by Martin Berasategui, the only chef in Spain to have amassed seven Michelin stars. Describing our meal (and the accompanying wines matched with each dish) in detail would simply be cruel. Suffice to say, neither of us had experienced anything quite like it. All in all, the trip was a great way to usher in the big five-ohno. And it got me pondering the years ahead. I think I’ll try to take a note from the Spaniards’ playbook. No matter what life dishes up, commit to living more, worrying less, and eating and drinking the best I can with the greatest people I can find. ¡Salud! •
40 // May/June 2013
Bodegas R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Tinto 2001 Black cherry, cedar, tobacco, and anise are prominent in this wine’s captivating aroma. Velvety smooth and supple, it delivers bright, mildly spicy, vanilla-tinged red berry fruit which linger on the haunting finish.
Bodegas R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Blanco 1996
A blend of mostly Viura with some Malvasia. For a dry white wine closing in on 20 years old, it is in remarkable shape. Sporting a complex aroma of butterscotch, beeswax, lanolin, lemon, and crème brûlée, it is intense and nutty in the mouth with substantial weight and lingering flavours of honey, caramel and citrus.
Ebeia de Bodegas Portia 2011 Crafted from 100 per cent Tempranillo (Tinta Fina del Paíse), Portia’s award-wining Ebeia (meaning “small hill”) sends out aromatic nuances of ripe, fresh strawberry and cherry combined with a splash of violet, chocolate and anise. Fresh and juicy in the mouth with layers of chewy black fruit and a bare kiss of oak.
Valbuena 5° 2007
Portia Prima 2011 The critically acclaimed, multiaward wining Portia Prima shows a more serious side of the Tinta Fina del Paíse variety. Concentrated black cherry scents are complemented by undertones of smoke, tar, and a distinct wet slate/mineral quality that seems to run though all Portia’s wines. Mid-weight with medium tannins, it displays a seamless integration of fruit and oak. Suggestions of cherry, vanilla, cocoa powder, and spice round out the flavour profile. The finish is long and mildly spicy.
A blend of predominantly Tempranillo supported by Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon aged for five years prior to release. Some mildly toasty/cedar/sandalwood appear amongst the more expected blackcurrant and dark plum fruit. Complex, harmonious and powerful with a black fruit core and char/chocolate undertones.
Pintia 2008 About 100 kilometres west of Vega Sicilia’s main winery in Ribera lies the Toro appellation. The clay soils and slightly warmer climate result in a wine of power and distinction. Tar, dried herbs, mild iodine, wood smoke and earth all make an appearance in the wine’s intriguing aroma. In the mouth it is ripe and viscous with mouth-coating layers of blueberry, liquorice, smoke and herbs.
Triennia 2010
Alión 2008
Vega Sicilia’s second Ribera del Duero property, Bodega Alión produces wines that are crafted in a slightly more modern style that those of Vega Sicilia. Aged in new French oak, the wine’s perfume invokes blackberry, toasted oak, wild herb, and that smoky/slate component that appears often in wines from Ribera, with similar elements reappearing on the palate.
Unico 2002
Portia’s flagship Triennia has a limited production run of only 6,000 bottles and is “double aged” in a combination of new, French oak barrels. The aromatic profile is powerful and complex with nuances of smoked meat, slate, spice, mint/ menthol, cigar box and mocha. Dense and chewy in the mouth it is spicy and mineral-laden with a touch a cassis and a hint of smoky oak. The finish is long and memorable with evident though well-integrated tannins.
Having, up till now, only read about the delights of the legendary Unico, I couldn’t help but wonder if I was in for a bit of a letdown. Turns out, no way! The aromas and flavours seemed to combine all the best of Vega Sicilia’s other wines, then ramp up the complexity and intensity. Earthy, tarry, smoky blackberry/ blueberry/stewed plum, and meaty/leathery notes intermingled on the nose while the ultra-intense palate showed off a symphony of chocolate, bacon fat, new leather, exotic spice, balsamic/blueberry and vanilla bean.
Oremus Mandolas Tokaji Dry 2010
From Vega Sicilia’s Hungarian vineyards, this dry, 100 per cent Furmint-based white reveals a captivating aroma suggesting lemon, tangerine, melon and white flowers. Full, rich, and vaguely nutty on the palate. Very distinctive … and very tasty.
Oremus Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2000
Again from Vega Sicilia’s Hungarian vineyards and from a warm, dry vintage comes this lush, honeyed Tokaji. Fragrant, candied orange peel, marmalade, ginger, honey, and quince jam define the aromatics. Decadently sweet but superbly balanced with everything on the nose reappearing on the palate. Should continue to age wonderfully.
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Vive la cuisine française! Picture this: It was September, Paris had shucked its summer heat, and, having spent much of the day in and around La Grande Epicerie, drooling over the way this grand emporium gently sells food magic, we tucked into an early-evening dinner in a Left Bank hotel. by duncan holmes
I can’t remember what I ordered to begin my meal, but Joyce settled on the simplest of salads. Large, friendly chunks of hand-ripped romaine, pieces of tomato and cucumber tossed with herbs, a complementary vinaigrette, and sacrebleu! a very confused, very furry, inch-long caterpillar began worming its way to the edge of the lettuce to escape the sting of the vinegar. While I know that the French will eat just about anything, Joyce quickly realized that this critter had not been part of the salad mise en place. And not wanting to create a scene, she cocked her British eyebrow loud enough to attract the attention of the maitre d’, who sensed her concern and swept across the room to our table. With a simple point of a finger, Joyce introduced him to the unexpected, still-hightailing-it protein that had come with her salad. Again without words, the maitre d’ bowed, took platter and critter, bowed again, and disappeared into the kitchen. A minute later, smiling, he returned, bowed yet again, and presented Joyce with a pristine white plate, loaded dead centre with a serving of golden foie gras, the size of which neither of us had ever seen. It was all so beautifully done. It was all so incredibly ... French. I told this story to chef Jean-Francis Quaglia, who with wife Alessandra owns and operates two often-honoured Vancouver restaurants — Provence and Provence Marinaside — both of which reflect the influence of Jean-Francis’s native Marseille. He entices customers by saying that he serves up the south of France “without the jet lag.” What I was trying to find out from Jean-Francis is what makes French food what it is — so distinctively different and delicious. He reflected on formative years generously seasoned by a restaurateur mom who larded on butter, olive oil, garlic, herbs, spices, and yes, lard, and a lot of love to make her rare roast beef, plugged with cloves of garlic, better; to quantify her stovetop quail, and all the rest. In short, to be a French chef. “I grew up cooking with feeling — needing to make a great dish ... every time,” he said. “It’s the same today. Every time we cook, we respect and we are aware of our ingredients, how they come together. It’s cooking from the heart. And we keep doing it, year after year.” The good food smells that waft out of French bistros are without doubt a mélange of all of the stuff that Jean-Francis talks about — maybe enriched in the north by more wine, in the south by the influences of the Mediterranean.
42 // May/June 2013
warm goat cheese salad Serves 4
Notwithstanding the caterpillars, there are other foods that we don’t often see on our North American plates. Lamb brains done in garlic and herbs, pork cheeks, frog legs, foie gras, and of course, escargot. All well seasoned, as they are at Provence, where the snails are served out of the shell, after being sizzled in butter and garlic, and the fiery whoosh of a brandy flambé. Jean-Francis and Alessandra delight in serving Dungeness crab to their family. Cracked into pieces and roasted, again with butter and garlic. Add some tomatoes late in the roast and squeeze lemon juice on a platter in the middle of the table. “It’s a great meal to keep the kids occupied,” he said. “They stay at the table, socialize, learn about taste and just how good food can be. We’ve taught them to taste everything. It means they’re ready for not just French-styled food, but for the variety of shapes, colours and tastes offered in something as different as a dim sum dinner.” I have felt similar camaraderie at a lunch in the cool wine cellar of Les Girasols in hot Rasteau; at a long table at sunset beneath a fig tree in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue; at candlelit tables around an ancient olive press high in the mountains north of Orange; at a picnic in a field of poppies south of Calais. Food does taste different in France, and maybe you have to go there to understand why. From Julia Child to the Larousse Gastronomique, and everything before and since, the lore of French cooking is a story of the love of food, an affair that in all of its complexity is nothing more than making the simple things we grow taste as good as they can be, on our plates. Read on. Cook on. And forgive the occasional caterpillar that may show up — perhaps looking for a top-hat role as your personal sous. “Whoooo ... are ... you?”
This recipe, from New World Provence, Modern French Cooking for Friends and Family by Jean-Francis and Alessandra Quaglia, is a favourite at Provence in Vancouver.
1 2
tsp Dijon mustard tbsp balsamic vinegar 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 300 g log of firm, ripened goat cheese 2 cups breadcrumbs 1 tbsp Herbes de Provence 2 eggs, beaten 1 cup all purpose flour 4 cups mixed salad greens, washed 3 tbsp olive oil
1. In a bowl, whisk together mustard, vinegar, salt and pepper
to taste. Slowly add in oil, continuing to whisk until combined. Set aside. 2. Slice goat cheese into 4 round slices. Place slices in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate while preparing salad. 3. In a large bowl combine breadcrumbs and Herbes de Provence. Place eggs in a separate, shallow bowl. In another separate bowl, place flour. 4. Remove goat cheese slices from refrigerator and dip each slice in flour, then beaten egg, then breadcrumb mixture to cover. Return coated cheese slices to bowl and firm up in refrigerator for another 10 minutes. 5. Place 1 cup of greens on each plate, and evenly distribute vinaigrette over top. In a frying pan on high, heat olive oil. 6. Sear breaded cheese rounds on each side for about 1 minute until edges just turn golden brown. Place 1 cheese round on side of each salad plate and serve.
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tarte tatin aux poires Another recipe from Johanne. Get it right — which isn’t hard to do — and it’s a showy, spectacular dessert. Cream on top is a must. A dessert wine and conversation will follow.
galette de pommes de terre au comté My friend Johanne, who lives in eastern Washington state, spends her life translating words of all kinds from English to French, and cooking — both of which she does with alacrity and grace. Her recipe is for 8 people.
1 glass of wine (for the cook) 1.2 kg potatoes (red or Yukon gold), grated (but not rinsed) 300 g of Comté — also called Gruyère — grated 1 egg 50 g flour 1 clove garlic Parsley
1. Mix all ingredients (but not the
wine!) together. 2. Pour the mix into a hot non-stick pan, press to make it even and round; continue cooking at low heat. 3. When one side is golden, turn it and cook the other side. Serve hot.
44 // May/June 2013
1
cold round rolled-out flaky pastry (ordinary pastry will do in a pinch) cup sugar 3 tbsp water 4 or 5 large pears (or you may use 4 or 5 apples) 1/4 cup butter
1/2
1. Preheat oven to 400˚F. 2. In an iron frying pan, heat sugar over low heat with the water. When sugar is
melted, increase the heat a little and boil without stirring until sugar is caramelized (golden-brown); make sure the entire surface of the pan is covered. Set aside. 3. Slice the pears in quarters, peel and pit them, then slice each quarter again in 2. Melt the butter in a non-stick frying pan. Put the pears in one layer over the melted butter and cook on medium-high heat, turning them once to coat them with butter. Do not overcook. 4. Pour the pears and their juice over the caramel; arrange them in one tight, single layer. Place the flaky pastry over the pears, pushing the pastry around the circumference to the bottom of the iron frying pan. 5. Prick the surface of the dough. Cook in hot oven 30 minutes. Let cool a few minutes, then put a serving plate upside down over the pie and flip the pan in one swift motion. The fruit must end up on top (not on the floor, if you can help it). …… Serve with crème fraîche or whipped cream. (It doesn’t stick. The pear, or apple juice mixed with the butter softens it nicely. Johanne says, “When I turn the pan upside down over the serving plate, I leave the pan upside down on the plate for a minute, to give time for the last pieces of fruit to transfer from the bottom of the pan to the top of the dough.”)
BÉARNAISE SAUCE I know how easy it is to pick up a mix from the market, but for those of us who relish kitchen authenticity, scratch is the only way to go. This rich — note the four egg yolks and all of that butter — and wonderful sauce is a perfect accompaniment for steak, roast beef, steamed vegetables. It’s even good as a spread on a ripped off chunk of French bread — see right — hot from the oven.
1/2
cup white vinegar chopped shallots whole black peppercorns bay leaf 1/4 tsp tarragon leaves 4 egg yolks 250 g butter 3 8 1
1. Combine vinegar,
shallots, peppercorns, bay leaf and tarragon in a small saucepan and bring to a boil.
MONSIEUR MONTFORT’S FRENCH BREAD 2. Reduce heat and simmer
uncovered until mixture is reduced by half. Strain and reserve liquid. 3. Cut butter into small cubes. Place egg yolks in top half of a double boiler and gradually stir in reserved liquid until combined. 4. Place pot over barely simmering water that is neither touching the bottom of the pan or boiling (do not let it boil). Slowly whisk in the butter a cube at a time. 5. Once all of the butter has been added, the mixture should have thickened, and can be removed from the water, poured into a serving jug or onto the food directly, and served.
I picked up Bouquet de France from a garage sale table. With the subtitle An Epicurean Tour of the French Provinces, this book of almost 700 pages was written by Samuel Chamberlain and published in the sixties. I have maintained Mr. Chamberlain’s narrative style for his soup recipe from the Pyrenees. (Feel free to load up your soup with cheese and bubble it under the broiler, as I do).
1. Slice and chop rather finely 4 large
I’ve been making bread — this bread — every Saturday morning for about forty years. Saturday is a day I don’t go to the gym, so kneading bread is my workout.
7-8 cups flour 2 packages active dry yeast (1/4 oz) 4 tsp salt 3 cups warm water
1. Into a large bowl,
measure 7 cups flour and stir in the yeast and salt. Form a well in the flour and pour in the water. With a wooden spoon — or your hands — slowly pull the flour into the liquid until it is fully absorbed. 2. Work the dough into a ball by hand and put it on a lightly floured surface. The dough will be tacky.
3. Lift and turn, adding small amounts of flour, for 10 to 15 minutes until the ball is smooth. 4. Grease your bowl and allow the dough to rise to double in volume — about two hours. Punch down, then let rise to double again. Cut the dough into the loaves or rolls you want, then let it rise again. 5. Preheat oven to 425˚F. 6. Just before you put your loaves in the oven, toss ¼ cup of water into the oven — seriously. It will create steam. 7. Slash the tops of your loaves with a sharp blade, spray with water and bake, spraying every five minutes or so for 15 minutes. 8. Bake until brown and hollow sounding when tapped — an additional 10 to 15 minutes. The best French loaves are the long baguettes, but any shape will taste great.
béarnaise
onion
soup
onions. Sauté them in 2 generous tbsp goose fat or bacon drippings over medium heat for a few minutes. 2. Add 3/4 tbsp flour, salt and pepper, and 2 garlic cloves, chopped and mashed, and cook the mixture until it is golden. 3. Add a large sprig of parsley, a good pinch of thyme, 1 tbsp tarragon wine vinegar, and 2 quarts water or stock from cooked vegetables and simmer the stock for 45 minutes, or until it is reduced to about 1 1/2 quarts. 4. Stock from vegetables is best, but a can of consommé with the water will do nicely. •
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by gilles bois
Civl
law 46 // May/June 2013
l
Wines everywhere are constantly improving. Something worth toasting about! The region formerly known as Languedoc-Roussillon, France’s most important production area, is no exception. Long seen as a source of generic, uninteresting “pinard,” the Languedoc has transformed itself into an incubator for winemakers. The hard work of dedicated vignerons has triggered a formal recognition process by the CIVL (Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Languedoc). They had no choice; worldwide competition is relentless. The CIVL has adopted a two-pronged strategy, which can be summarized as “unify and segment.” Unification is about bringing everyone under one umbrella to convey a coherent message; segmentation is to create a hierarchy that allows the best wines to stand out from the crowd. The unification was in itself a huge challenge, as the region spans over 200 km on the Mediterranean coast, from the border with Spain to the Rhône valley. Languedoc makes wines that run the gamut of styles: red, white and rosé, from bone dry to syrupy sweet, light, full bodied and everything in between, even sparkling. Soils and grape varieties are extremely varied, and the climate ranges from desert to relatively cool. A key, unifying step was the creation of the Languedoc AOC in 2007. It is larger than its predecessor, Côteaux du Languedoc, which is being phased out. It currently includes 36 smaller AOCs and official denominations. Another significant achievement was the merging with Air Sud, the organisation that represents IGP wines (Identification Géographique Protégée). Generally considered to be one notch below AOCs, they often advertise the grape they are made from rather than a precise location. Together, AOCs and IGPs now encompass 120,000 hectares of vines, a major increase from the 38,000 under AOC. Now at the helm of so many individual wineries, small firms and big cooperatives, the CIVL had to create a hierarchy reflecting quality, reputation and value. Segmentation is the answer, but therein lies another challenge. Everyone agreed at first that a good place to start was to evaluate the potential of each parcel, so geologists and climatologists were brought on board. Then the quality of the wines had to be confirmed, but does quality come from the soil or is it the result of a dedicated vigneron? There is much room for debate, and since the French love to debate, there is no doubt they did. Their first attempt at segmentation was criticized for being too complicated and too ambitious (see “Primer” in the September 2011 issue). After another year of discussions, which must have been at times as energetic as a fermentation gone wild, they came back with a new approach that makes a lot of sense. It is based on decisions made by the INAO, the ruling authority on controlled appellations in France. The “Crus du Languedoc” banner was created for vineyards that enjoy having their own AOC within their village AOC, itself within the Languedoc AOC. As of today, they are Corbières-Boutenac, MinervoisLa Livinière, Saint-Chinian-Berlou and Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun, all red wines.
The only other segment above the broad Languedoc AOC is “Grands Vins du Languedoc.” This is a stepping-stone, since these wines can potentially become a Cru. A few are on the verge of being promoted (La Clape and Pic St-Loup), while Terrasses du Larzac is following behind. There are seven more that have yet to submit a formal request to the INAO, all are red wines except Limoux blanc. They are Grès de Montpellier, Montpeyroux, Pézenas, Saint-Drézery, Saint-Georges d’Orques and Faugères. But if a unique terroir is one way to garner recognition, it is not the only way. Sparkling Blanquette de Limoux has had its AOC since 1938 while summer favourite Picpoul de Pinet got its distinction last February. They and others are being left out of the new segmentation; don’t they deserve some recognition too? Asked to comment on the situation, the CIVL chose to remain silent. Maybe it thinks the wines don’t need any additional attention because they are already well established.
white
Jeanjean Devois des Agneaux d’Aumelas 2011, Côteaux du Languedoc ($21)
Made from Roussanne and Marsanne, it showcases ripe white fruits (peach, pear) and grapefruit with a mild touch of honey and dry minerality over a kiss of oak. Flavours are precise with a delicate acidity giving it a round and smooth middle palate. Good persistence, too.
Château Rouquette sur Mer Cuvée Arpège 2011, La Clape ($18)
Bourboulenc is a minority grape in white blends of the south except in La Clape where it is the lead singer, with Roussanne on backup vocals. Delicate nose of citrus, a hint of white flowers and something salty (oyster shells) reminding us that La Clape is overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. The fine acidity, good balance and precise flavours give a pleasant, round mouthfeel that leads to an elegant finish.
Château St-Martin de la Garrigue Picpoul de Pinet 2011, Côteaux du Languedoc ($17)
Pinet is the only place where Picpoul is not part of a blend. Floral notes hover over aromas of white peach and limestone. The vivid acidity and fresh, citrusy taste provide an intense middle palate that has surprising body and weight for a Picpoul. Equally full in the finish, this generous expression of the grape is ready to drink.
red
Cave de Roquebrun Les Fiefs d’Aupenac 2010, Saint-Chinian Roquebrun ($21) This dark purple wine is made of Syrah with 20% each of Grenache and Mourvèdre. The nose is seductive, filled with red and black fruits, the right amount of spicy oak is inviting. Very expressive and quite tasty, its acidity is balanced by a tight core of fruity extract and slightly dry tannins that will evolve favourably over 3 to 5 years.
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Château de Gourgazaud Réserve 2010, Minervois La Livinière ($17)
A blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre showing a dark ruby colour with a purplish rim. Enticing nose of sweet red fruits, spices and vanilla on a line of toasted oak. Surprisingly velvety mouthfeel with lush tannins. There is a nice spherical core of fruit, perfectly balanced. So delicious right now it is hard to resist.
Domaine de Fenouillet Combe Rouge Grande Réserve 2008, Faugères ($17)
Nice ruby-purple colour. Spicy nose with notes of red and black fruits that are inviting. Full bodied, the supple tannins are wrapped in pure, fruity flavour that gives elegance to the mouthfeel. Pleasant, velvety finish on this ready to drink blend of Syrah and Grenache.
Jeanjean Le Grand Devois 2010, Côteaux du Languedoc ($26)
Dark, purplish colour. Smoke comes out first followed by blackberry and other black fruits, but soon the aroma of toasted oak takes over. Full and ripe, tannins are supple but not without an underlying grip that will disappear in the rich flavour in a few years. The tight finish is fruity and it feels warm on the palate.
Château Rouquette sur Mer Cuvée Amarante 2011, La Clape ($17)
The flower that shares its colour with the wine inspires the name. The nose is expressive with red and black fruits, rich oak notes and garrigue herbs cooked by the sun. Generous texture, intensely fruity and well balanced, the tannins are soft on the tongue. Middle palate is pleasant and moderately powerful, finish is elegant. Enjoy now or wait 3 to 4 years.
Château Paul Mas Clos des Mûres 2011, Côteaux du Languedoc ($20)
Aptly named, the nose features blackberries (mûres in French) along with Morello cherries, soft spices and a hint of menthol for freshness contrasting the generous oak. Supple and thick on the tongue, flavours are very ripe with finely grained tannins. Finish is slightly dry; it will gain more harmony over time.
Domaine Paul Mas Vignes des Crès Ricards 2011, Terrasses du Larzac ($18) Château de Lancyre Grande Cuvée 2009, Pic St-Loup ($26)
The warm and generous 2009 vintage gave us this powerful blend of Syrah (75%), Grenache (15%) and Mourvèdre. There is a rich nose of ripe blackberries, spices, garrigue and a touch of earthiness. Warm and tannic, more than full bodied, it needs time to soften and reach its peak, in 5 to 10 years.
Château Grand Moulin Terres Rouges 2008, Corbières ($22)
Owner/winemaker Jean-Noël Bousquet bought his first vines in the 1970s; Terres Rouges is at the heart of his vineyard. Syrah comes first in the blend followed by 30% Grenache and 10% Carignan. Dark ruby, the nose is rich with blackberries, spices and garrigue. Full bodied, the wine has a ripe flavour, a silky texture and nice amplitude on the palate. The long finish is slightly warm. Drink over the next 5 to 7 years.
48 // May/June 2013
Deep ruby-purple. Sun infused black fruits and soft spices jump out of the glass. Full bodied, with plenty of fresh juicy fruit taste, the dense tannic backbone is barely grainy, with a nice balance throughout. Ready to drink now and over the next 5 years.
Jean-Claude Mas Les Faïsses 2011, Côteaux du Languedoc ($19)
Dark purple, it shows cherry, blackberry and cassis on the nose. Ripe but with a nice freshness full of juicy fruit taste, tannins are chewy. It finishes on more red and black fruit. Ready to drink.
Château St-Martin de la Garrigue Bronzinelle 2010, Côteaux du Languedoc ($17)
The typical nose of black fruits, dried herbs and earthy notes takes on liquorice in the glass. Acidity is firm, tannins are a bit drying but there is a good core of juicy-ripe fruity extract, promise of a favourable evolution over 3 to 7 years. Finish is long and silky. •
about time\\
must try
by robert Hausner
We talk, follow and preach the new-new thing. But what if we went back in time? What was new as dishes were being developed centuries, or even a millennia ago? Let’s look at it now. Homo sapiens living in caves — for survival rather than sport — began eating their (only) newish thing: berries and fruit. As the years passed, man finally learned that animals provided a better sustainable food source, and with the discovery of fire, could kill their prey and crudely carve up the edible parts and — via heat — another new-new thing. In the first century, Bible-era foods began to develop, and the sophistication of ancient Rome resulted in the evolution of recipes; think fried chicken, French toast, and yes, even foie gras. And as we hopscotch through the development of these new-new things, 10 to 15 centuries later, things like ravioli, pancakes and waffles, scrambled eggs, guacamole, applesauce, sweetbreads, quiche, even puff pastry were evolving. Things are starting to look familiar now. It’s worthy to note that even the way people ate changed when the Medicis introduced the idea of cutlery and china to the communal eating table. Before this important development, food was usually served on a kind of thick bread known as a sop. (A dirtier word never existed.) By the 17th century, when French onion soup and even bagels made their first appearance, so too did the idea of writing and transcribing authentic recipes. The era of what was to become sophisticated food could now (thanks to the printing press) be disseminated over a wider audience. The late 1800s brought dozens of different cookbooks for the masses, leading perhaps with the still-famous Fannie Farmer Boston Cooking-School Cookbook. But what about our search for healthy living? Processed and prepared foods were the mainstay of the early 20th century. The second half of the 20th century brought this idea of nutrition, slow food and ingredient consciousness to the world — remember this is less than 100 years after Escoffier’s butterslathered tome was published. So as we look ourselves in the mirror today, we can contemplate a different perspective of the new-new thing. I’ve laid out a sample of how people have constantly engineered, developed and, with imagination, presented new ideas for the food we eat. If anything we have a greater abundance than was imaginable even 100 years ago — a walk down your grocery aisle will confirm that. So as we move forward, is it the ‘pop’ food heaped on a plate or food chemistry manipulated by a genius chef like Heston Blumenthal that will prove to be food’s new-new thing? Only time and our palates will tell. •
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the mav notes\\ 90 Maipe Reserve Malbec 2010, Mendoza, Argentina ($18) 92 Stratus White 2009, Niagara ($44) Winemaker J-L Groux brings what many would at first think is an odd combination of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier and Gewürztraminer together in this proprietary white. It is the epitome of artful blending and, I don’t know how, but it works brilliantly. With unique and aromatic notes of peach cobbler, tangerine, creamy vanilla, apricots and toasty oak nuances, it is complex and intriguing on the nose. On the palate, it is textured with lychee, all manner of orchard fruits and exotic tropical fruits balanced against an array of charred oak spice, cream and vanilla. It’s lush, yes, but there’s still enough acidity to give the wine vibrancy through the finish. Good aging potential here. (RV)
Tripel Karmeliet Blond 3-Grain Bottle-fermented Strong Beer 8%, Belgium ($4.99/330 ml) Brewed in the traditional style of the Carmelite nuns, which goes back to the 17th century, this one displays a very persistent, creamy soft head with light yeasty malt aromas. Smooth, fruity and lightly sweet in the mouth, it is perilously easy to drink. Finishes with light, nutty bitterness. The high alcohol is barely noticeable until you attempt to stand up. (SW)
A gorgeous Malbec made from 38-year-old vines with a nose of blackberry, blackcurrants, violets, plums, exotic spices and toasty oak vanilla. An interesting wine in the mouth, with fully integrated dark and red fruits that are bold and expressive on the palate and lifted by bright acidity. (RV)
90 Château Croix-Mouton 2007, Bordeaux, France ($20)
From the quintessential garagiste with the unpronounceable (to me, anyway) surname Jean-Philippe Janoueix, this medium-deep beet-red wine has a complex and prominent nose of violets, strawberries, cassis and Dutch liquorice, which with time in the glass opens additionally to figs and raisins. Full-bodied with lots of fruit, including cranberries, black and blueberries, it is well-balanced with soft tannins. Long finish. Huge value. (RL)*
90 Peter Dennis Shiraz 2010, McLaren Vale, Australia ($18)
Embarks boldly with a burst of black fruit and spice on the nose. Goes big on the full-bodied palate, led by blackberry, ripe plum and black pepper flavours. Yet the firm acidity and soft tannins ensure balance and round out the warm finish. Superb value. Can tame well-marinated beef ribs. (HH)
91 Sacred Hill Deer Stalkers Syrah 2007, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand ($45)
Dark ruby. Black fruits (blackberry, cassis), liquorice and a little oak. Velvety mouthfeel; the barely rough tannins are coated with fruity extract. Finish is long and balanced. (GBQc)
Lauriac Fine Pale Cognac, France ($33.83)
Unlike most cognacs, which have added caramel for colour and sweetness, this unusual brandy takes its pale amber colour only from the oak in which it has been aged. The result is light and fruity, with a nose of fresh sugar cane, sweet corn, raisins, coconut and pears. The fruitiness continues on the palate, with mouth-watering acidity and a bit of alcohol burn. A refreshing and natural change from heavy, over-manipulated versions. (RL)*
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permanent delight\\
There are hundreds of great quotations out there about Champagne, but I’ll go with English wine writer Serena Sutcliffe, who wrote, “Champagne is a permanent delight.” With the amount of effort that goes into creating a bottle of this legendary bubbly, it should be. It begins life as the juice of underripe Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes grown on chalky soils. The tart base wines bring in distinctive flavours and aromas: red berry fruit and animal notes from the Pinot Noir, fruit and brioche from the Pinot Meunier, and apple aromas from the Chardonnay. Wines from different grapes, vineyards and vintages are then blended. Then a dosage of sugar and yeast is added to start the bubble-making bottled second fermentation. As they die off and dissolve, the yeast gives off decadent spicy custard odours known as autolytic aromas before being cleared out. Finally, a sugary dosage is added and the bottle is ready to rest while its components mature and evolve. A lot of steps mean a lot of character! Sparkling Champagne existed even before Dom Perignon called it “a glass of stars” in the 1700s. It grew in popularity through the 19th century but really came into its own in “The Belle Epoque” that started the 20th century. The golden age is now though, with a greater number being consumed by more people than ever before. It is the official wine for births, marriages, anniversaries and ship launches. So which Champagnes are right for you? We all have flavour profiles that we adore: light and elegant Taittinger and a pretty bottle of Perrier Jouët, or the fuller Bollinger and Roederer. My favourite has always been Krug, a taste I share with Ms Sutcliffe, a confirmed “Krugiste.” When we met in 1989 she
Matter of taste
by Sheila Swerling-Puritt
wrote in her book Champagne, given to me, “to Sheila, who is probably as fond of this stuff as I am!” If we are talking rosé, it has always been Billecart-Salmon since I first sipped it. If your pockets are not too deep, no one does it better than Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin in its trademark yellow label. And I must admit I don’t feel guilty using this particular Champagne in cocktails. Others will find you to their taste when they see you drink Champagne, or better still, offer to share it with them. Style and sophistication just work that way.
POL ROGER BRUT CHAMPAGNE ($60) Mineral citrus flavours with a lovely creamy mousse; mediumbodied and a lingering finish. Perfect match with food.
LANSON BLACK LABEL BRUT ($60) Complex with some yeastiness and citrus on the palate; well balanced.
VEUVE CLICQUOT BRUT NV ($68) Citrus, minerality, brioche, complex flavours, good structure and a brisk acidity. With a little age will develop flavours of ginger and mushrooms. Great partner for fish and seafood and holds its own with poultry and white meats. •
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fingerprint of a place\\
In the early 1990s, according to Emiliana export manager Fernando Pavon, the Chilean wine industry was at a crossroads. Most wineries were using the same pesticides, the same herbicides and the same vinification techniques, and there was little attention paid to regionality, let alone individual vineyard sites. As a result, says Pavon, the wines lacked character and personality representative of a place. The country’s wines were in danger of turning into a sea of homogeneity. Pavon says that the people at Emiliana felt that they needed to change and realized that the best way to obtain the fingerprint of a place was through respect of nature via sustainable, organic and biodynamic farming. Today, he calls the concept of sustainability a “tattoo” for every employee at Emiliana. Not only do they believe that it is the best way to express the character and personality of a place in a bottle of wine, it has come to represent a way of life for many of the workers. I visited the winery a few years ago and was impressed by the quality and value as well as the distinct varietal and regional character expressed in the wines. But I was even more impressed by their commitment to sustainability (which, as I have noted in the past, is a term frequently used and misused as a marketing tool). Chile is a relatively isolated country and as a result is not subject to the same vineyard diseases as many other wine-producing regions of the world. This environment contributes to the ability of wine growers to farm naturally without the use of chemical pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers. Emiliana, as with many other wineries, seems to have embraced the sustainable philosophy and, according to Pavon, they are working towards a day when all the wines from Chile are produced sustainably. While many wineries have adopted this idea of sustainability, what impacted me most was the extension of the philosophy to Emiliana’s people. Each of the vineyard and winery workers is
52 // May/June 2013
davine
by gurvinder Bhatia
given a six-square-metre plot of land in a communal garden adjacent to the vineyards. The employees are shown how to farm organically and biodynamically, what to plant seasonally and when to harvest. On average, a family of four is able to obtain enough fruits and vegetables from their plot to last the entire year. But the most attractive part of the project is what happens on Saturday mornings. With the kids out of school, families tend the gardens together. The next generation gets to experience first-hand the effects of natural farming in the hopes that these habits simply become a way of life. But the proof is in the taste ... the fruits and vegetables are fragrant and flavourful, beyond what you could ever expect from commercially farmed produce that is shipped thousands of miles to sit on a grocery store shelf sometimes weeks after it was harvested. It’s impressive when a winery produces great-quality wines in a manner that is environmentally friendly. It’s even better when the concept of sustainability also extends to the producer’s greatest resource ... its people.
Emiliana Adobe Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 2011, Casablanca ($15.99)
Bright, fresh and nervy with lots of citrus, lime zest, mineral, and a touch of grass flavours that continue through a lengthy finish with lifted acidity. Quite a good value.
Emiliana Signos de Origen Chardonnay/Viognier/Roussanne/Marsanne 2011, Casablanca ($24.99)
Elegant with a lovely richness; aromas and flavours of apple, apricot and plum, a hint of nuttiness and fresh minerality, with a full mid-palate and a nice hint of acid on the round finish. A very well-balanced wine and great match with everything from roast chicken to Asian cuisine.
Emiliana Signos de Origen Syrah 2010, Casablanca ($24.99)
Emiliana Coyam 2010, Colchagua ($27.99)
Emiliana Winemaker’s Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Maipo ($24)
Emiliana Pinot Noir ‘Rincon Siete’ 2010, Casablanca ($38)
Emiliana Winemaker’s Selection Syrah/Mourvèdre 2007, Colchagua ($24)
Emiliana Gê 2008, Colchagua ($75)
Fresh but dark, with good intensity; slightly meaty quality adds character to the plum, currant and cranberry aromas and flavours, with a hint of pepper and cloves, soft, full tannins and a soft, bright finish. 5% Viognier adds elegance to the wine. Makes me want wild boar chops.
Full and fresh with hints of red currant, balsamic, mocha and spice, with firm but approachable tannins and mineral on the muscular but bright finish. Leaves you wanting another taste, as well as a medium-rare rib-eye.
Explosive ripe fruit with red liquorice, white pepper, an intriguing savoury quality, bold, juicy tannins, bright acidity and a long, delicious fruit- and spice-filled finish. Calls for game — venison, elk, bison or even lamb simply marinated in rosemary, salt, pepper and good-quality extra virgin olive oil.
AGENCE DE VOYAGES W. H. HENRY
Loads of red currant, plum and raspberry aromas and flavours with liquorice and spice, fresh herbs, silky tannins, a firm underlying structure and penetrating flavours, but very easy drinking. Syrah, Carménère, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvèdre and Petit Verdot.
Beautifully fresh with lots of ripe, pure black cherry, raspberry and plum flavours, a hint of spice; silky texture, elegant and layered with fresh, clean acidity on the persistent, focused finish.
Vibrant and youthful in colour with intense, concentrated aromas and flavours of blackberries, plums, currants, blueberries, spice, tobacco and mint, plus big, bold tannins and tons of ripe fruit; great balance and still fresh. Delicious now, but will only get better with a few years in the cellar. Syrah, Carménère and Cabernet Sauvignon. Amazing with Brazilian barbecue. •
ROYAL INDIA TOUR WITH AN OPTIONAL 4 NIGHT YOGA EXTENSION Royal India Tour – September 25 to october 8, 2013
|
Yoga Extension – october 8 to 12, 2013
INC.
TRAVEL AGENTS
You are invited to join us on this tour of India to savour the splendour and spirituality of India’s golden triangle. Our tour has been carefully designed to give you an intimate glimpse of India’s Northern Beauty. Your tour includes: • the legendary forts & palaces of rajasthan • the cherished love story surrounding the taj mahal • the blue city of Jodhpur
• the cultural contrasts of old & new Delhi • the colourful bazaars of Jaipur • the romance of Lake pichola in Udaipur
For a memorable finish to the Royal India tour add on a 4 night yoga extension in Rishikesh.
13 nights in Northern India: $1,872.00* per person, single supplement $794.00 4 nights Yoga extension: $737.00* per person, single supplement $345.00 International airfare will cost approximately $1,589.00 taxes included (subject to change). *price based on double occupancy, including GST, QST and FICAV contribution of $2.00/$1000, Quebec licensee
FOR ITINERARY PLEASE CALL DAPHNE AT 514.369.3300 • 1.800.361.9421 OR EMAIL daphchin@yahoo.com WH Henry Inc 5165 Sherbrooke Street West, Suite 400, Montreal, QC H4A 1T6 Wh_Henry AD_Royal_India.indd 1
3/7/13 9:54:27 PM
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//the food notes 92 Frontaura Crianza 2005, Toro, Spain ($40)
93 Steltzner Cabernet Franc 2005, Stag’s Leap, California, USA ($34.33)
Medium-deep plum red. Complex nose of raspberries and strawberries with a herbal overtone, liquorice and coffee. Lots of tannins and high alcohol (14.3%) still dominate the fresh red cherry fruit. This needs time in the glass, or decanting. Well-suited to a striploin grilled with Montreal steak spice, and a crusty baguette. (RL)*
92 Secondo Marco Recioto della Valpolicella Classico 2009, Veneto, Italy ($55.00/500ml)
Sourced from old vines, this 100% Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo) grabs your attention with its complexity and balance. The nose opens boldly with fig, prune and chocolate aromas. The palate features a rich fruity core, wrapped in satisfying savouriness that unfolds onto a long finish. Calls out for game dishes. (HH)
Big, bright, rich, fresh grapey aromas of black and red fruit tinged with minerals. Full-flavoured and layered with rich, penetrating flavours, great concentration and richness, but maintains a fresh raciness because of the beautiful fresh acidity that balances the sugar. Incredible length, but the acid almost gives the impression of finishing dry. Need some sbrisolona (dry almond torte) with this. (GB)
92 Pondview Estate Winery Cabernet Franc Icewine 2009, Niagara ($35/200 ml)
This is an amazing Cab Franc Icewine, especially for the price! Strawberry jam, guava paste, spice, cocoa, buckwheat honey and herbs are all layered on a viscous texture. Length is not an issue, as it carries on the taste buds. You can serve it with dessert or enjoy on its own. (ES)
91 Vignobles Maynard Clos du Calvaire Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France ($28.95)
This CNP is an absolute steal for under $30. High octane (15.5%), there is plum, kirsch, raspberry, black pepper, anise, lavender, smoked meat and earth to be found both on the nose and palate. There is a rich texture, great persistency and ripe tannins. Pair with barbecued dry-rubbed ribs or grilled lamb chops. Drink over the next 5 years. (ES)
88 Oyster Bay Sparkling Brut NV, Marlborough, New Zealand ($25) This bottled-young, tank-fermented Chardonnay sparkler exudes fresh, clean-lemon aromas and lively ripe apple and white peach flavours. The yeast lees contact contributes complexity and a round mouthfeel. Finishes crisp and refreshing. An elegant sipper with oysters on the half shell. (HH)
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88 Perseus Pinot Gris 2011, Okanagan and Similkameen ($17) The nose opens on a savoury tone, led by apple skin and backed by honeysuckle and toasted almond. Loads of melon and poached pear coat the round, well-balanced palate. Apricot lingers on the dry, refreshing finish. Solid choice for risotto primavera. (HH)
bouquet garni
the kitchen jedi\\
I have five nieces and two nephews. Most of them are in the process of moving out of their parents’ homes, setting up households, getting married and generally acting more mature than I. From the time they were babies, I aspired to be their wise aunt, the all-knowing sage they could turn to for advice, sort of like a prettier and more fashionable Yoda. I thought I projected a certain gravitas they would find admirable, perhaps even emulate. But in all honesty, from the time they were toddlers they have called me Aunt Nutsy, and they still laugh whenever I walk into a room. And they have clearly stated, without a shred of doubt, that Yoda is way better-looking than I am. And more fashionable. They are vaguely aware I consider myself the Jedi Knight of the Culinary Galaxy and therefore they occasionally query me about food. I am flattered by their earthling-like curiosity, eager to induct them into the Galactic Republic and quick to arm them with knives as sharp as lightsabers. In truth, my motto is: Help you I can. And need I also say: May the Forks be with you. Q: Aunt Nutsy, what’s a fast, fancy dish I can make for company? A: Nothing beats a cioppino, the San Francisco treat!
san francisco cioppino serves 4 to 6
Created by San Francisco’s Italian fishermen during the 19th century, cioppino is open to interpretation by the home cook. Use whatever seafood is freshest, or as those in the know might say, “Use the catch of the day!” This recipe calls for 2 tablespoons tomato paste. Freeze the rest.
1 1 1
1/2
onion, chopped sweet red pepper, seeded and chopped cup chopped celery cup chopped fresh fennel
by nancy Johnson
2 1
cloves garlic, pressed tsp dried thyme 1/2 tsp dried oregano 1/2 tsp salt Pinch crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste 2 tbsp tomato paste 1 cup dry white wine 1 large can whole tomatoes, preferably San Marzano 2 cups clam or chicken broth 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice 1 tsp sugar 1 bay leaf 1 lb large mussels, scrubbed 3/4 lb firm white fish, such as cod 1/2 lb large shrimp, shelled and deveined
1. In Dutch oven, sauté onion, red pepper, celery, fennel, garlic, thyme, oregano, salt and red pepper flakes until onion is softened. 2. Stir in tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes. Add wine, scraping up browned bits. Cook, uncovered, 5 minutes over medium-high heat. 3. Add tomatoes with juice, broth, lemon juice, sugar and bay leaf. With kitchen scissors, chop tomatoes to tidbit-size. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 10 minutes. 4. Add mussels and fish. Simmer, covered, about 5 minutes. Discard any mussels that don’t open. 5. Add shrimp and simmer, covered, 4 minutes or until shrimp are pink and cooked through. 6. Remove bay leaf. Serve in shallow bowls with crusty sourdough bread to sop up the juices. …… Try serving with a Napa Valley Chardonnay.
+ Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on tidingsmag.com
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Q: Aunt Nutsy, how do you make that amazing cheesecake? A: Easy! Just follow these simple directions.
aunt nancy’s super-amazing creamy cheesecake serves about 8 to 10
I’ve been making this cheesecake since the early 1970s. The recipe was given to me by a long-lost friend named Pam who I would love to contact if I could just remember her last name. My brother’s girlfriend Susan swears I could sell this cheesecake online and make millions. I am just too lazy to even think about it.
1. Coat a 9 x 13 inch pan with cooking spray. Preheat oven to 300˚F.
1 1/4 3 1/3
graham cracker crust cups graham cracker crumbs tbsp sugar cup butter, melted
1. In a large bowl, mix all ingredients together. Press into prepared pan. Place in freezer to chill while making cheesecake filling.
cheesecake filling
3 cups cream cheese, softened to room temperature 6 large eggs 1 cup sugar 1 tbsp vanilla
1. Using a mixer, in a large bowl, cream cheese
until fluffy. Add eggs one at a time, beating after each addition. Beat in sugar and vanilla. 2. Pour filling over crust. Bake in preheated oven 50 minutes. Remove and set on rack to cool while making sour cream topping.
Sour Cream Topping Yes, you must beat the topping for a full 10 minutes. Take the mixer into the living room, turn on the TV, and beat mindlessly while you watch Ellen.
3 cups sour cream 5 tbsp sugar 1 1/2 tsp vanilla
1. Beat ingredients in a mixing bowl with an electric mixer for 10 minutes. Spread on top of cheesecake. Bake at 300˚F for 7 minutes. 2. Chill 2 hours or more before serving. …… Serve with Prosecco.
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Q: What’s the best apple for baking? A: Heat can reduce an apple to mush. Apples that hold their shape during baking are Royal Gala, Granny Smith, Rome and Braeburn. Use McIntosh apples for applesauce.
baked sugar apple slices serves 4
Sweet and tart, this is a brilliant break from store-bought applesauce and can be served alongside pork, beef or sausage or as a wonderful dessert with whipped cream, yogurt or ice cream. I prefer unpeeled apples, although my fussy beau Ron likes peeled. I roast the apples in a pie pan, but you can use any casserole dish that will hold them. Adjust butter and sugar to your taste.
4 Royal Gala apples, sliced, unpeeled or peeled Juice of 1/2 lemon 1/3 cup butter 1/3 cup brown sugar Nutmeg, cinnamon to taste
1. Preheat oven to 425˚F. 2. In a pie pan, toss apples with lemon, butter, brown sugar,
nutmeg and cinnamon. Roast, uncovered, 20 to 30 minutes or until apples are tender. 3. Serve as a side dish with the short ribs (recipe below.)
Q: What the heck are short ribs? A: Fatty bits of beef and bone, short ribs are often overlooked by home cooks, but they can become devastatingly succulent when cooked properly. Rendering off some of the fat on stovetop is key as well as cooking them in a slow, aromatic braise with onions, carrots, celery and garlic. There are several types of short ribs: English-style and flanken, bone-in or boneless. All produce a tender dish, although bone-in will yield more flavour. To me, short ribs are always best the second day, which makes them a marvellous make-ahead meat.
beef short ribs in cabernet sauvignon sauce serves 4
I use a mid-priced California Cab for this dish, although an inexpensive Bordeaux would yield equally delicious results. The trick is to use a wine you would love to drink and try not to cry as you pour most of it over the ribs. You will strain the gravy, so it’s okay to roughly chop the vegetables. This dish is delicious with mashed potatoes or polenta.
8 2 1 6 3
beef short ribs, bone-in or boneless tbsp olive oil large onion, chopped cloves garlic, chopped shallots, chopped 1/2 cup chopped carrots 1/2 cup chopped celery 2 1/2 cups Cabernet Sauvignon 2 cups beef broth 1 large sprig fresh rosemary 2 tbsp cornstarch 2 tbsp cold water
1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. 2. Season short ribs with salt and pepper. In large Dutch oven, brown 4 ribs on all sides in 1 tbsp olive oil. Remove from pan. Repeat with next 4 ribs and olive oil. Remove and set ribs aside. 3. In same Dutch oven, sauté onion, garlic, shallots, carrots and celery, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes or until onion is softened. 4. Add Cabernet Sauvignon, bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer, uncovered, about 15 minutes or until wine is reduced to about 2 cups. 5. Add beef broth, rosemary sprig and ribs. Bring to a boil. 6. Cover tightly and transfer to oven. Bake for 3 hours or until meat is fall-apart tender. Add additional beef broth as needed. 7. Remove ribs and strain cooking liquid through sieve, pressing on solids to release juices. Discard solids.
8. Place Dutch oven with cooking liquid on stovetop over
medium-high heat. In a small bowl, mix cornstarch and water.
9. Pour into cooking liquid and bring to a boil. Cook until
gravy thickens. Serve with short ribs. …… Serve the rest of the Cabernet Sauvignon or Bordeaux with this meal, and be sure to have a second bottle as backup.
Q: Why does my chicken stick to the pan when I’m sautéing it? A: I call it Stickin’ Chicken! Foods high in protein have a tendency to stick. To avoid this, be sure to preheat the skillet until hot, then add a bit of oil. However, there are times when you might want the meat to stick, such as steak, thus creating a beautiful brown crust. Let it stick! After a few minutes, the steak’s proteins will release their hold on the pan, signalling that it’s time to flip!
asian bourbon chicken serves 4
This dish comes together in less than an hour and features a complex sweet, hot and tangy sauce, reminiscent of the fab bourbon chicken served at Asian restaurants. Coating the chicken with flour is a much healthier option than breading and deep-fat frying.
4
chicken breast fillets, cut into bite-size pieces cup flour 2 tbsp olive oil 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 tbsp minced fresh ginger 1/4 tsp crushed red pepper flakes 1/2 cup apple juice 1/2 cup water 1/3 cup bourbon 1/3 cup soy sauce 1/3 cup packed brown sugar 2 tbsp ketchup 1 tbsp cider vinegar Hot cooked rice Minced fresh parsley, for garnish
1/2
1. Place chicken and flour in a food-safe plastic bag. Shake to coat. 2. Heat a large skillet, add oil and sauté chicken in batches until lightly browned. Remove chicken and set aside.
3. In the same skillet, whisk garlic, ginger, red pepper flakes, apple juice, water, bourbon, soy sauce, brown sugar, ketchup and cider vinegar. 4. Bring to a boil. Add chicken, reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 20 minutes or until sauce thickens and chicken is cooked through. Serve over rice, garnished with parsley. …… Delicious with a French Vouvray, or serve with Bourbon Sours. •
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Tidings uses the 100-point scale 95-100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90-94. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85-89 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80-84. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75-79. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 & under. . . . . . . . . . .
exceptional excellent very good good acceptable below average
Our Scoring
System
* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . available through wine clubs green. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . white & rosé wines red. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . red wines
the commentaries in order to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board, or its website, for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler (ON), Sean Wood (NS, NB), Gilles Bois (QC), Evan Saviolidis (ON), Harry Hertscheg (BC), Gurvinder Bhatia (AB), Rick VanSickle (ON), Ron Liteplo (AB), Tod Stewart (ON) and Jonathan Smithe (MB). Argentina // p. 58; Australia // p. 58-59; Canada // p. 59-60; Chile // p. 60-61; France // p. 61;
Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category. Readers should open their palates to compare the relationship between quality and price. We’d also ask you to carefully study
Germany // p. 61; italy // p. 61-63; new zealand // p. 63-64; South Africa // p. 64; Spain // p. 64; United States // p. 64;
the notes\\ /Argentina /
89 Ben Marco Malbec 2009, Mendoza ($24.99)
Integrated red fruit, spice and subtle oak aromatics with piquant redcurrant fruit and a splash of chocolate, firm dry tannins and wellintegrated fruit, spice and tannic grip on the palate. A well-structured, approachable wine with some complexity. (SW)
88 Don Miguel Gascon Malbec 2010, Mendoza ($14)
Classic Malbec at a great price with an earthy-brambly nose to go with ripe blackberry, red fruits, blueberry
58 // May/June 2013
and an array of supporting spices. Like all good Malbecs, it’s soft, warm and inviting on the palate with broad flavours, soft tannins and bold fruits that linger on the finish. Comfort wine. (RV)
87 Finca La Linda Malbec 2011, Mendoza ($13.99)
Another good Argentinian Malbec showing warm scents of ripe red berry fruit, a pinch of cinnamon, clove and a dash of vanilla. Lightly sweet berry fruit is smoothly laced with milk chocolate and an agreeable mocha note on the finish. Wonderful on it’s own.(SW)
Spirits // p. 64-65; Beer // p. 65
/Australia /
92 Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Dry Riesling 2011, Clare Valley ($20) The nose shows succulent grapefruit, peach, fresh minerals and subtle notes of mango and other tropical fruits. It’s made in a bonedry style but is nicely balanced by ripe citrus, apple and peach notes that are lifted by firm acidity through the finish. Hold for 5 years or more. (RV)
91 Pewsey Vale Eden Valley Riesling 2011, Eden Valley ($20)
Gorgeously dry and austere Riesling with sharp lemon-
lime, talc, crushed stone, grapefruit, white flowers and green apple notes on the nose. It’s refreshing on the palate with bold citrus fruit, a razor-sharp vein of acidity, minerals and persistence through the long finish. Can age this for 5 years. (RV)
89 Wakefield Riesling 2011, Clare Valley ($14.95)
A well-priced Riesling that’s drinking well now but can age. Pale straw in colour, it offers a light petrol-ed nose that’s spicy, minerally and citrus-driven. Medium-bodied and dry with tart melon and lime flavours that linger on the palate. (TA)
\
88 Devil’s Lair Chardonnay 2009, Margaret River ($42)
Matured 9 months in French oak (45% new), but the fruit remains in charge. The nose delights with toasty baked apple. The lively-yet-rich mid-palate highlights fresh citrus and ripe peach, while the finish wraps up with toasted walnut. Serve with elegant seafood bisque. (HH)
87 Thorn-Clarke Terra Barossa Merlot 2010, Barossa ($15.95)
This Merlot is chock full of cherry jam, blackberries, plum, menthol, graphite and spice. Mid-weight, the palate is ripe and fruit-driven with essence of cherry dancing all the way down. (ES)
/Canada / 91 Pondview Estate Winery Vidal Icewine 2010, Niagara ($24.95/200 ml)
Here is an excellent value from the realm of Icewine. Honeyed apricots, apple juice, toast, spice, sponge toffee and honey are found in this concentrated and sweet offering. The finish is long, and there is a sound acidity that brings everything into focus. (ES)
90 Riverview Cellars Vidal Icewine 2011, Niagara ($34.95/200 ml)
This might be Riverview’s best Vidal Icewine to date. Honey, peach compote, pear, caramel and citrus are all in play with this great stickie. Excellent length and fresh acid rounds the wine out. (ES)
90 Norman Hardie Chardonnay 2009, Niagara Peninsula ($35)
This is Norman Hardie’s expression of fruit from Niagara rather than his own Prince Edward County grapes; but the same Burgundian style prevails here. The smoky, spicy apple bouquet replicates on the palate with lively acidity and a toasty oak finish. (TA)
89 Konzelmann Chardonnay Barrel-Fermented 2009, Ontario ($30) This wine has matured beautifully. Golden straw in colour, it offers a creamy caramel and citrus nose. It fairly billows on the palate with full-bodied caramel and lemon flavours. (TA)
88 Colio Estate CEV Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Lake Erie North Shore ($16)
This Sauvignon Blanc is spot on, with classic grapefruit, lime and gooseberry with a nice basket of herbs and light grass cuttings. It’s fresh and vibrant on the palate with citrus-lime and passion fruit notes and subtle herbs and grass through a clean finish. (RV)
88 Château des Charmes Old Vines Riesling 2010, Niagaraon-the-Lake ($16.95)
At CDC, “Old Vines” means estate-grown fruit that is a minimum age of 20 years old. The nose of this Riesling leans towards an austere mineral, lime and apple profile with slight undercurrents of peach and bergamot. Dry, fresh acidity and very
good length make for a fine pairing with fried shellfish or salmon carpaccio. (ES)
87 Rosewood Estates Winery Natalie’s Süssreserve Riesling 2010, Niagara ($15)
Because of the heat in 2010, the nose is fast developing. It is the petrol quality which has taken the lead, followed by lime, grapefruit, peach and bergamot. The palate is soft with some noticeable sweetness and honey tones chiming in on the finale. Chill well and drink over the summer months. (ES)
87 Rosewood Estates Winery Sémillion 2011, Beamsville Bench ($18)
This vintage of Rosewood’s Sémillion is lighter than last year’s rendition. Aromatically, it has the lanolin, peach and honey qualities associated with the varietal, but then a “Grüner” quality emerges in the form of white pepper and herbs. The palate exudes refreshing acidity, and there is very good length. (ES)
92 Gretzky No. 99 The Icon 2010, Niagara ($99)
The Icon 2010 red is a bold blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon that saw 22 months in new oak. This is one heck of a wine. It’s dark and thick in the glass with highly extracted black cherry, blackcurrants, roasted espresso bean, vanilla toast, mocha and an array of thrilling spices swirling around on the nose. It’s big, bold and brash, but not clunky, on the palate and built for the cellar with black fruits, lifted spices, cocoa,
vanilla, black liquorice, campfire smoke, persistence through the finish and grippy tannins. Needs time for the moving parts to all come together. (RV)
91 Tinhorn Creek Oldfield Series Cabernet Franc 2010, Okanagan ($35)
This top Cab Franc from Tinhorn is youthful on release but still shows bold cherry, raspberry, cassis and currant fruits on the nose that work remarkably well with the cedar, earth, spiced herbs and Cuban cigar leaf. It shows good acid on the palate with waves of savoury fruits and spice that lingers through the finish. It gains cedar, vanilla, herbs and spice as it opens up in the glass. Worth putting a few down in the cellar for 5 or so years. (RV)
90 Colio Estate Vineyards CEV Small Lot Syrah 2010, Lake Erie North Shore ($20)
A brilliant effort with this Rhône-style Syrah. The nose is redolent in wild berries, boysenberry, tobacco leaf, cracked black pepper, smoked meats, cinnamon and campfire smoke. It’s smooth and inviting on the palate with meaty dark fruits, pepper, currants, liquorice, road tar and juicy acidity. Attractive now, but can age for a few years. (RV)
90 Rosewood Estate Winery Merlot 2010, Niagara Escarpment ($22)
This is a pretty Merlot ... so pretty that it even won a gold medal at the annual Decanter
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//the notes Wine Awards. Plum, dark cherry, earth, smoke, cocoa and spice are the dominant qualities. There is also a slight floral and animal quality which trickles underneath. There is richness, suave tannins and enough stuffing to allow it to age for another 3 or 4 years. (ES)
90 Thirty Bench Red 2010, Niagara Peninsula ($24)
As close to claret as an Ontario red blend comes. Dense ruby-black in colour with a nose of cedar and blackcurrant; finely tuned and firmly structured. Drinking well now and can hold for a couple of years. (TA)
89 Calamus Estate Cabernet Franc 2010, Lincoln Lakeshore ($20) Smoky tobacco, cassis, black raspberry, clove, mocha and fresh herbs come together both on the nose and the palate. There is density but no heaviness, with fresh acidity and a soft yet lengthy finale. (ES)
89 Calamus Estate Merlot 2010, Lincoln Lakeshore ($25)
Of all of Calamus’ top-end 2010 reds, this is the most open and accessible. Smoke, plums, dark cherries, earth and spice are all present on the plush frame. The dark fruits carry long on the finish and the supple tannins round everything out. (ES)
89 Inniskillin Discovery Series Malbec 2009, Okanagan ($25) A rarely planted varietal in BC, this small-production bottling is aged in 50%
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American and 50% French oak barrels and delivers a nose of mulled blackberry, red plums and cherry-raspberry fruits to go with a baker’s rack of spices. It all comes together on the palate with nicely integrated fruit and spice, soft tannins and bright acidity. Think Malbec with a coolclimate twist. (RV)
89 Creekside Undercurrent Shiraz/Malbec 2008, Niagara ($27)
A very different wine for Niagara with the Malbec and Shiraz (a 50/50 blend) co-fermented in demi-muid (600-litre) oak barrels. The nose is expressive with blackberry, blueberry, dark plums, roasted meats, mocha, liquorice and smoke built in an old-world style. Very earthy and structured on the palate with currants, anise and cracked black peppercorns, with good acid and firm tannins. (RV)
89 Calamus Estate Meritage 2010, Niagara ($28)
Calamus’ Meritage is a blend of 42% each of Merlot and Sauvignon and the remainder Cabernet Franc. Still slightly restrained, this wine will show better in a year. Plum, cherry, raspberry, cassis, mocha, clove and herbs are built on a solid tannic backbone. Drink over the next 5 years. (ES)
89 Rosewood Estates Natural Fermentation Reserve Pinot Noir 2009, Niagara Peninsula ($39.95)
This is the best Pinot Noir I’ve tasted from Rosewood. Tawny
ruby in colour, it has an earthy cherry nose with oak spice. Very Burgundian in style; medium-bodied, dry and elegant with a firm structure and lively acidity. (TA)
88 Calamus Cosmic Red, Niagara ($19.95)
Cosmic is a blend of 50% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot and 7% Pinot Noir ... yes, I did say Pinot Noir. That dash of the latter just gives a little lift and rounds out the experience. Cassis, dark cherries, spice, mocha and smoke all come to play. The tannins are soft, and the wine is already approachable. (ES)
88 Calamus Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Lincoln Lakeshore ($22)
Well aware of Cab Sauv’s difficult stature in Ontario’s climate, winemaker Arthur Harder only makes a monovarietal Cab in the warmest years. The cassis, blackberry, raspberry, spice, coffee, vanilla and herbs make for a great pairing with herb-crusted rack of lamb. (ES)
88 Riverview Cellars Salvatore’s Reserve Malbec 2011, Niagaraon-the-Lake ($30)
One of only a few Malbecs made in Ontario, this small-production wine bursts with blackberry, blueberry, raspberry, mocha, sweet cedar and kirsch on the nose. It’s smooth and bold on the palate with ripe blackberry and red fruits, nutmeg and baking spices and good length through the finish. (RV)
88 Perseus Invictus 2009, Okanagan ($33)
This South Okanagan blend incorporates the 5 classic Bordeaux grapes, led by Cab Sauv and Merlot. Invites with eucalyptus on the nose, and then delivers a wellbalanced, savoury palate led by sage, olive and cassis. Long cigar-box finish. Suits all manner of roasted meats. (HH)
87 Perseus Cabernet/ Shiraz 2011, Okanagan and Similkameen ($22)
This blend of vineyards and grapes features predominantly blackcurranty Cab Sauv and jammy Shiraz, seasoned with peppery Cab Franc. Dark fruit and toast tease the nose, while bright red fruits pop on the medium-bodied palate. Lingers with anise and black pepper. Tasty with grilled sausages. (HH)
87 Perseus Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Okanagan ($50)
From a vineyard in Oliver, this packs a full-bodied punch with its ripe 15.1% alcohol and dry tannins buttressed by French and American oak. Opens with a blast of blackcurrant, supported by dense blackberry flavour and bursts of spice. Leather notes linger. Good match with dark chocolate. (HH)
/CHILE / 89 Viña San Esteban In Situ Signature Chardonnay/Viognier 2011, Aconcagua Valley ($15) Great value here if your taste runs to full-bodied, buttery
wines backed by spicy oak. Ripe flavours of peach, pineapple and mango seduce the palate with a fleshy and creamy mouthfeel. (TA)
89 Errazuriz Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2010, Aconcagua Costa ($22)
Acclaimed for its Wild Ferment Casablanca Chard, Errazuriz also embraces wild yeasts for its pioneering Manzanar vineyard near the cool Pacific Ocean. The bold baked-apple nose is followed by a creamy texture brightened by complex lemon, quince and pineapple. Very elegant with shellfish dishes. (HH)
88 Mayu Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Elqui Valley ($13.99)
Lively Chilean Sauvignon showing gooseberry and grassy herbal aromatics. Tart gooseberry comes through equally vividly in the mouth backed by brisk acidity and mineral grip. (SW)
/France / 91 Domaine Gresser Duttenberg Riesling 2009, Alsace ($26)
A thrilling Riesling made in an austere style with a nose of grapefruit, orange blossom, fleshy peach, quince, marmalade, minerals and green apples. The palate reveals lemon-citrus, ginger, persistent and rich peach-apple flavours, swirling minerality and nervy tension driven by a racy vein of acidity. Interesting and personable Alsace Riesling. (RV)
88 Jean-Louis Denois Brut Pinot Noir Chardonnay Methode Traditionelle ($26.98)
A bottle-fermented sparkler from the Pyrenees foothills region presenting rich biscuit and lemon citrus notes with a hint of berry fruit on the nose. Citrus theme comes through in the mouth together with background red berry, crisp acidity, a lick of mineral and creamy vanilla. (SW)
86 Mas des Bressades Cuvée Tradition 2011, Costières de Nîmes, Rhône Valley ($15)
Bright, pale yellow. Fresh nose of citrus, white flowers and a hint of asparagus. Sharp acidity, light to medium body, dry and a tad bitter. Generous flavour, but it seems a little unripe for the region. (GBQc)
86 Edmond Jacquin Altesse Roussette de Savoie 2010, Savoie ($18)
Roussette and Altesse are two names for the same grape, mostly found in Savoie, which resembles Hungary’s Furmint. Pale yellow. Pear and quince on the nose with a strong mineral component (heavy oil). A tad of residual sugar hits the tongue first, followed by bitterness. Fat texture; the finish has extra roundness from the residual sugar. (GBQc)
92 Château Tayac 2005, Margaux ($31.83)
Deep plum red. Rich nose of plums, cranberry and oak. The tannins are still overpowering — this needs a couple more years, but there are underlying flavours of cassis and cherries that will mellow and develop. Classy Bordeaux. (RL)*
92 Château de Cantin 2010, St-Émilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux ($35.50)
At this early stage, the wine shows delicious black fruits on the seductive nose. Velvety, rich fruity taste, this is hard to resist. Impressive and great potential. Not released yet; price is for the 2009. (GBQc)
90 Marquis de Calon 2005, St-Estephe ($37.17) The second wine of Château Calon Ségur, from a good year. Deep purple-red. The outgoing nose is mostly cassis, with vanilla, tobacco and pencil lead. In the mouth it is medium-bodied with cherries and dark fruits like plums and prunes. The tannins are smoothing but still erect, giving a drying effect which will disappear with more time. (RL)*
89 Mas de Cynanque Acutum 2007, Saint-Chinian, Languedoc ($23)
Deep ruby with a purplish rim. Very ripe, almost cooked, sun-drenched red and black fruits, soft spices, liquorice. Thick on the palate, warm and intense. Chewy tannins wrapped in generous fruity extract. Slightly drying finish. Ready to drink. (GBQc)
88 Famous Famaey Malbec 2011, IGP Côtes du Lot ($15.79)
Nose reveals red berry and redcurrant fruit with lightly earthy, dried herb and spicy notes in the background. Contrasting dry bitter cherry flavours kick in on the palate with firm tannins, appetizing acidic bite and a splash of chocolate. (SW)
/Germany / 88 Studert-Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2008, Mosel ($25)
Quite an interesting steely nose of lanolin and white pepper with citrus, pear and nectarine chiming in. The fruit is fairly ripe on the palate with moderate sweetness, citrus, peach and apricot fruits with added mineral notes that are all lifted by tangy acidity. Would like to taste this in 5 years when the petrol notes emerge. (RV)
/Italy / 91 Umani Ronchi Casal di Serra 2011, Verdicchio di Castelli di Jesi DOC Classico Superiore ($19)
Complex bouquet rolls out lemon drop, peach, ripe yellow pear and a trace of tropical fruit, with succulently ripe green and yellow fruit and unctuously smooth creamy texture in the mouth. Crisp citrus and subtle almond notes round out the long finish. (SW)
90 Anselmi San Vincenzo 2011, Veneto IGT ($15) This blend of 80% Garganega, 10% Chardonnay and 10% Sauvignon Blanc comes from the Soave region of Veneto. That being said, it has nothing to do with the acid-water offerings which are usually found on liquor store shelves; rather, it is an aromatic offering full of red apple, spiced pear, pineapple, honey and white flowers. There is crisp acidity with apple and pear reverberating on a long finish. (ES)
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//the notes 89 Bottega Il Vino dei Poeti Prosecco Brut NV, Veneto ($18)
Fragrant aromas and fresh flavours hint of acacia blossoms, orchard fruit and blanched almonds. The light, crisp style with its delicate effervescence ensures a refreshing quaff. Although dry, it finishes with a delightful sweet-honey note. Perfectly suited as an aperitif bubbly. (HH)
89 Teruzzi and Puthod Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2011, Tuscany ($16) Classic Vernaccia, a versatile food wine that deserves greater respect. Pale straw colour with a stony, citrus, white-peach nose, it’s crisp and elegant; well balanced, with good length ending on a grapefruit-zest note. (TA)
88 Canella Prosecco DOC NV, Veneto ($22)
The fresh, fruity aromas and flavours of floral, apple, pear and citrus delight both nose and palate. A rather rich mid-palate supports a soft frizzante mousse. The clean finish lingers with apple, spice and a touch of sweetness. An appetizing sipper with canapés. (HH)
91 Villa Matilde Aglianico IGT 2009, Campania ($26)
The complex aromas strike the nose with ripe fruit, dark spice and earthy savouriness. Prune, red cherry, liquorice, mocha, cigar and leather flavours fill the rich, firmly structured palate. Well-balanced tannins linger. Decant to aerate, which softens its texture. A match for pastas with hearty meat sauce. (HH)
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91 DeAngelis Anghelos Rosso 2008, Marche IGT ($37)
This Sangiovese/Merlot/ Cab-Sauv blend bridges irresistible old-world character with impressive modern polish. Arresting aromas of cedar, dark fruit and lifted balsamic notes. The velvety palate reveals layers of rich cassis, gamey meat and earthy spice, with lingering leather and mineral. Excellent with lamb stew. (HH)
91 Collazzi 2008, Toscana IGT ($49.29)
An impressive Bordeaux blend with power and complexity from aging 18 months in French oak barriques. Complex, generously developed dark fruit is skillfully interlaced with notes of spice and fine oak. The entirety is encased in solid, but not forbidding, tannic structure displaying firm grip and intensity with a pleasing sensation of wine-soaked wood on the finish. (SW)
91 Fabiano Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2009, Veneto ($56)
Bright, intense nose of dried cherries, prunes and figs with a lovely mixture of dried fruit and spice flavours, hint of cocoa with a tight core, rich yet easygoing mouthfeel, well-integrated tannins and a long, fresh, flavourful finish. Best served with rich meat dishes or strong cheese. (GB)
91 Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 2007, Tuscany ($57.95)
Tawny ruby in colour, this lovely Brunello offers a bouquet of blackcurrant,
cherries and oak; beautifully balanced and well-structured, it has a lovely mouthfeel. Just a delight to drink now, or hold for 2 to 3 years. (TA)
91 Secondo Marco Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2009, Veneto ($75)
Big and densely packed, with a tight core of crushed currants, dark cherry, a touch of earth and spice; big and full-bodied, but needs some time to come together. Should have a great future as it combines fruit, structure, bright acidity and a fresh minerality on the finish. (GB)
90 Poliziano Vino Nobile di 2009, Tuscany ($25.95)
A well-priced Vino Nobile with a dense ruby colour. A complex nose of cedar, cherry, spicy plum and smoke gives way to a beautifully balanced palate that’s dry and firmly structured. A seamless wine. (TA)
90 Antinori Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva 2007, Tuscany ($44.95)
A bit costly but worth the money, this elegant Chianti is 100% Sangiovese. Dense ruby in colour, it has an earthy cherry nose and flavours of cherry, liquorice and tobacco. Beautifully balanced and firm, with well-integrated oak. (TA)
90 Mocali Vigna delle Raunate Brunello di Montalcino 2007, Tuscany ($46.95) This is a keeper. Don’t be fooled by the tawny ruby colour. The floral note in the cherry nose predicts
sweet fruit, which is exactly what you get. It’s light on the palate, well balanced and is drinking well now but will reward patience — 3 to 4 years. (TA)
90 Novaia Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2009, Veneto ($65)
Quite tight, but evolving and opening even while in the glass, showing layers of rich, dried fruit, spice, hints of coffee and chocolate; full-bodied but fresh, with big, young tannins and a long finish. (GB)
90 Secondo Marco Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2008, Veneto ($75)
Complex, rich, but lively aromas and flavours with raisins, dried cherry, fig and prune with hints of spice and chocolate. Full-bodied with nice depth and complexity, firm mid-palate, fruit-coated, full tannins and a long, rich finish that is powerful but still fresh. (GB)
89 Speri “La Roverina” Valpolicella DOC 2009, Veneto ($18)
This bright, medium-bodied red delights with earth-toned aromas and juicy red-berry flavour. Also brings out notes of dark cocoa and peppery hints. The very soft-textured mouthfeel makes for easy drinking, but surprises with a long finish. Delightfully suited for grilled panini. (HH)
89 Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico Riserva 2008, Tuscany ($27.95) This is a full-bore Chianti with a dense ruby colour. On
the nose, expect cherry and red liquorice notes. Full-bodied and dry, it has well-extracted fruit, a flavour of sun-warmed cherries and earthy tannins. Hold for a year or two. (TA)
89 Giribaldi Barbaresco 2006, Piemonte ($31.95) The tawny ruby rim of this Nebbiolo suggests some maturity. The nose is cherrypit and tobacco with a mineral note. Medium-bodied, dry, lean and firm but elegant with a liquorice and cherry flavour. In spite of its maturity, don’t be afraid to cellar it for a few years. (TA)
89 Secondo Marco Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2009, Veneto ($32)
Lots of dark blackberry, juicy cherry and liquorice, with a touch of well-integrated oak spice character; silky, layered and slightly chewy tannins on the lingering, bright finish. Full-flavoured without being heavy. (GB)
88 Settesoli Mandrarossa 2011, Sicilia IGT ($17.75)
Medium ruby. Red fruits (ripe strawberries) with hints of rubber and fennel. Light to medium body, nice fresh, fruity taste. Soft texture that turns a little dry in the short but clean finish. Ready to drink. (GBQc)
88 Novaia Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2009, Veneto ($26) Nice concentration showing ripe aromas and flavours of dried cherry and plum; lovely balance with a velvety
texture, hint of spice and a touch of minerality on the long, lingering finish. Made from grapes that were dried for 1 month. (GB)
88 Massimago Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2009, Veneto ($80)
Fresh aromas of dark cherries, blackberries and spices from cloves to cinnamon with soft, ripe tannins; juicy acidity, elegantly balanced, and youthful with a lifted finish. (GB)
87 Barba Vasari 2009, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC ($13)
Shows attractive plum and redcurrant with a whiff of pencil-box spiciness on the nose, generous dark fruit flavours, and good tannic grip with well-balanced weight and acidity. Best with red meats and firm ripened cheese. (SW)
87 Novaia Valpolicella Classico 2011, Veneto ($18)
Fresh, grapey nose that is quite fragrant, with bright berry fruit, great balance and elegance, fresh acidity, juicy palate and soft finish. Nice match for rice with ground pork. (GB)
87 Gamba Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso ‘Le Quare’ 2009, Veneto ($28)
Elegant with good balance; flavours of cherry and blackberry fruit, a touch savoury, silky texture and bright acidity on the bright finish. Shows great restraint without compromising character. Great with grilled chicken. (GB)
85 Araldica BBQ Barbera 2011, Piedmont ($9.95)
The name here is very apropos as this wine is well suited for lighter grilled fare as well as tomato-based dishes. Smooth and easydrinking, this Barbera serves up dark cherry, plum, anise and cocoa. At this price, 1 bottle can easily become 2 ... or 3 ... especially on the patio this summer. (ES)
/New / Zealand 90 Kumeu River Mate’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2008, Auckland ($30) Straw yellow. Wet wool and white fruits in a subtly oaky style. Good acidity; a lot of roundness in the middle palate. Slightly tart finish. At 5 years of age, the wine is mature; its components have melted. (GBQc)
90 No. 1 Family Estate Cuvée No. 1 Méthode Traditionnelle South Island ($35.50)
Rich yellow colour. Ripe white fruits and toasted bread in a slightly oxidized style. Cutting acidity, quite dry; body is a little thin, but there is a richness of flavour and a very clean finish. Roll some sushi with a bite for this one. (GBQc)
90 Felton Road Block 2 Chardonnay 2010, Central Otago ($55)
Straw yellow. Rich and ripe nose; sharp aromas in a slightly oaky style. Cutting attack, rich middle palate with obvious oak presence persisting in the long finish. (GBQc)
89 Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Marlborough ($22)
Very pale. The grassy nose has finesse with notes of ripe green apple and passion fruit. Vivid acidity, intense flavour and a dry finish. Extra refreshing. (GBQc)
89 Mt Difficulty Target Gully Riesling 2010, Central Otago ($25)
Very pale. Elegant nose of citrus, limestone and delicate petrol notes. Semi-dry on the palate, this is a fine expression of the variety that drinks well now. (GBQc)
89 Amisfield Pinot Gris 2009, Central Otago ($36.50)
Pale yellow. Characteristic nose of quince, wet wool and pear. Fine acidity, a nice roundness in the middle palate, quite dry and an energetic finish lifted by acidity. (GBQc)
91 Craggy Range Te Muna Pinot Noir 2010, Martinborough ($38.25)
Light ruby colour. Pure, typical nose of small red fruits and fruit stones. Light to medium body, tame acidity, nice, fruity taste. Lively, refreshing long finish. (GBQc)
89 Te Mata Coleraine 2008, Hawke’s Bay ($50) Deep ruby colour for this Bordeaux-style blend. Green pepper and red fruits combine in a vegetally oriented nose with a light mineral touch. Warm and velvety on the palate, it has a compact body with chewy, almost tender tannins that turn firm in the finish. (GBQc)
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//the notes 89 Terravin Hillside Reserve Pinot Noir 2008, Marlborough ($57) Full ruby. Menthol and eucalyptus dominate the somewhat atypical nose for a Pinot. Nice fresh attack; tender and silky tannins have a slight bitter edge. Nice dry finish. Original. (GBQc)
/South / Africa 87 Barista Pinotage 2011, Western Cape ($14.95) The name says it all. Expect a coffee-bean flavour in this medium-bodied Pinotage with its smoky, minerally blackberry nose and that characteristic tarry, coffeebean taste. Not for all palates, but if you like Pinotage this offers good value. (TA)
/Spain / 84 Torre Oria Cava Brut, Metodo Tradicional, Valencia ($13.99)
This bargain-priced sparkler show floral fragrance, scents of mellow citrus and green fruit, a hint of vanilla biscuit, brisk fizz, mild green apple flavour, light body and soft finish. (SW)
88 Antano Crianza 2008, Rioja ($13)
The aged character on the nose is a welcome treat for such a value price point, with savoury aromas and balsamic notes. Ready to drink with its medium-body palate and approachable red-berry flavours. Some complexity lingers with tobacco, cedar and spice on the finish. For burgers, pizza, whatever. (HH)
/United / States 92 Pahlmeyer Chardonnay 2010, Napa ($89.95)
After I got over the sticker shock at the price, I realized what a terrific bottle of wine this is. Straw-coloured with a green tint, the bouquet is a smoky, toasty, minerally apple-butter mix. It’s fleshy but elegant on the palate with spicy, smoky pineapple and citrus flavours. (TA)
84 Front Porch Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Lake County, California ($30) Pale silvery-yellow. Nose of honeysuckle, peach and a hint of dill. Surprisingly full-bodied, with citrus and
peach flavours. Too much body for an aperitif, better as a food wine: try with tuna salad made with Kalamata olives. (RL)*
92 Stags’ Leap Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Napa ($50.79)
This impressive wine is basically a Left-Bank Bordeaux-style blend aged for 20 months before bottling. Refined bouquet reveals notes of blackberry, blackcurrant, attractive background spice and a whiff of oak. Elegantly integrated dark fruit on the rounded, velvety palate is supported by well-structured supple tannins, a touch of dark chocolate and discreet oak on the finish. (SW)
91 Plume Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2010, California ($30)
This is only the second vintage of this well-priced, well-made Napa Cab that is a joint venture of the Zepponi Family from Napa and the Stewart family from the Okanagan Valley. It starts with a big, bold nose of extracted black cherry, bramble bush, blackberries, plums, raspberry and sweet oak spices. It’s wonderful on the palate with
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64 // May/June 2013
ripe fruits of cherry and cassis with lovely notes of road tar, eucalypt and liquorice to go with a vibrant core of acidity and soft tannins. Fantastic value from Napa. (RV)
90 Stags’ Leap Petite Sirah 2008, Napa ($43.79)
The backbone of this wine comes from 30-year-old Petite Sirah vineyards on the Stags’ Leap estate. There are also smaller amounts of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, all aged in American oak for 14 months. Shows warmly ripe red berry on the nose with a pinch of cinnamon, clove and a leafy minty overtone. Leans towards more concentrated dark fruit, fig and liquorice in the mouth, finishing on a very dry tannic note. Pair with full-flavoured meat dishes like braised lamb shanks. (SW)
/SPIRITS / Lauriac Cognac VS Fine Champagne ($38.83)
Medium copper colour, smells of wood and plum jam with a tiny hint of fresh tomato for interest. A smooth sipper, it tastes of plums, coffee and lots of smoky oak. (RL)*
Cùl na Creagan 8 year old Scotch Whisky ($38.17)
Pale brownish brass colour. Interesting nose of smoky peat with pineapple, apple and citrus notes. Luscious in the mouth, full-bodied, sweet with flavours of ripe apples and slightly hot alcohol. (RL)*
Bodegas Pernod Ricard Felipe II ($26.50)
Spanish brandy from the Jerez region. Pale bronze. True to its origin, it smells remarkably like fino sherry, but also wood, light molasses and coffee. In the mouth one finds smoky caramel, a hint of sweet liquorice and a slight alcohol burn. (RL)*
An Lamraig Scotch Whisky ($31.17)
Medium-deep old gold colour. The restrained nose is peaty, with vanilla, apple, caramel and a hint of fresh paint. On the palate it is dry, classic scotch, with a bit of caramel flavour. (RL)*
/Beer / Oxfordshire Ales Triple ‘B’ Extra-Ordinary Bitter 3.7%, United Kingdom ($4.99/500 ml) Mellow malty, fruity and hoppy character on the nose with similar themes following through on the smoothly textured palate. Finishes on a dry, nutty note with lingering fruity sensations. (SW)
Oxfordshire Ales Pride of Oxford Golden Ale 5%, United Kingdom ($4.99/500 ml)
Cascade and Perle hops add to
the appealing floral and yellow-fruit aromas. Beautifully balanced, harmonious malty, citrus and vaguely tropical fruit flavours culminate in a long, nutty, dry-bitter finish. A classic! (SW)
Les Trois Mousquetaires Hopfenweiss (Wheat Ale) 6%, Canada ($3.99/375 ml) From a fine craft brewery in Brossard, Quebec, this is an interesting interpretation of the German wheat-beer style, showing yeasty, malty citrus and banana character with a softly creamy body, gentle carbonation and a very bitter nutty dry but heartwarming finish. (SW)
Microbrasserie Charlevoix La Vache Folle ESB (Extra Special Bitter) 6%, Canada ($4.99/500 ml) Though described on the label as a Red Ale, it is more gold/amber in the glass, showing lively floral, fruity and fresh malty aromas. Robust full-bodied dry malt kicks in on the palate with a bitter hoppy finish. Hearty, characterful brew. Calls for a poutine. (SW)
Schneider Weisse Original Tap 7 Bottlefermented Wheat Beer 5.4%, Germany ($3.49/500 ml)
From Bavaria’s oldest wheat brewery, this classic of the style shows slightly sour yeasty and malty aromas with very smooth creamy malt flavours, soft effervescence and lingering, refreshingly light bitterness on the finish. (SW)
Wine Tasting Club Malvasia
Malvasia (pronouced mal-va-ZEE-ya) is part of a grape family that originated at some point in Greece’s ancient history. Today, you can find it springing up in vineyards in pretty much every vine-growing region of the world. Not bad for a grape you’ve probably never heard of. Italy especially has taken it to heart. Spain, Portugal and the US can’t help singing its praises, too. Malvasia actually comes in two types - white and red. Malvasia Bianca, as the white is known, is the one that’s most commonly planted. You’ve probably encountered it already if you’ve had some sweet passito style of wine (made using dried grapes). Talk about versatile, Malvasia can produce some very high quality dry wines, too. More often than not, it’s the supporting actor, lending hints of its colour and flavour, and creating a nicely nuanced blend. Here’s some food for thought: winemakers who use Malvasia love working with it. Like Chardonnay, Malvasia is malleable enough to become anything the winemaker wants it to be – bright and fruity, muted, dry or sweet. When you come across wine blended with Malvasia, look for crisp, fresh fruit in the bouquet and on the palate.
Try these:
Finca Nueva Fermentado en Barrica Blanco 2010 ($15.95) Composition From Rioja, this white is made up of 70% Viura and 30% Malvasia. Colour Clear, pretty, pale yellow straw. Bouquet Full of warm butter, cream and caramel, peaches, apricots, rose petals and citrus zest. Taste Soft butter and cream float across the tongue along with tart apple and citrus zest. This wine offers a wonderfully long finish. I found it paired very well with chickpea burgers. Orecchiete pasta and sautéed swiss chard would work nicely, too. Produttori Vini Manduria Riserva Salice Salentino 2008 ($18.95) Composition From Puglia, this red is made from 85% Negroamaro and 15% Malvasia. Colour Very light red, almost rust coloured. Bouquet Leather, menthol, barnyard, dark cocoa, Morello cherry and cedar. Taste Lots of cherry with just a hint of black liquorice. Hardly any tannins to speak of. Make sure you allow this one to decant for a good half hour before drinking. It’s surprisingly light and complex; so try it alongside some good aged cheese.
tidingsmag.com
\\ 65
sangiovese by any other name\\
The Italians don’t make things easy for wine lovers. Take Sangiovese, for example. The name derives from the Latin sanguis Jovis, “the blood of Jove,” also known as Jupiter, the chief deity in Roman times. You probably know that Sangiovese is the grape of Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Carmignano, all of which are produced in Tuscany. It is also prominent in the DOCG wines of Umbria’s Montefalco Sagrantino secco and Torgiano Rosso Riserva, Conero in Marche and the DOC wines of Lazio and Rosso Piceno in Marche. But here’s where it gets confusing: there are 51 synonyms for the Sangiovese grape in Italy.
66 // May/June 2013
final word
by tony aspler
One of the most interesting of these synonyms is the poetically named Morellino di Scansano — Sangiovese grown in Tuscany’s south-western coastal region, called Maremma. The coastal plain, similar to the Camargue in southern France, used to be mosquito-infested marshland until it was drained in the Mussolini era. Now it is pastureland for the famous breed of the long-horned Maremmana cattle, which are wrangled by butteri, Italy’s only cowboys. Morellino is grown on the slopes of these rugged, low-lying hills that look nothing like the manicured hills of the Chianti Classico region between Florence and Siena. Some of the locals will tell you that the name Morellino comes from the colour of the sturdy Maremmano horses ridden by the butteri; a more plausible explanation would be that it comes from the Morello cherry, which is deep red in colour and has refreshing acidity. And if you taste Morello di Scansano, the first descriptor that comes to mind is cherries. While the wine doesn’t enjoy the same popularity as Chianti (next to pasta and Ferraris, Chianti is the most well-known product of Italy), it’s more enjoyable to my palate because of its sweet fruitiness and softer tannins. Temperatures in Maremma can rise to 40˚C in high summer, and there is less rainfall than in Chianti. With this kind of weather Maremma can ripen Bordeaux varieties, as evidenced by its most commercially successful wines such as the Super-Tuscans, Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia (Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc) and Antinori Guado al Tasso (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah). Morellino di Scansano was granted DOC status in 1978 and raised to DOCG in 2007. Like Chianti it must be produced from at least 85 per cent Sangiovese; if blended, any black non-aromatic variety can be used — usually these will be Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot. In January I had the opportunity to tour the area and to taste a plethora of Morellino di Scansano wines in Siena, where the Enoteca Italiana was presenting the winning wines of the 10th Selezione dei Vini di Toscana — featuring the top 100 wines of Tuscany. My pick of the Morellinos were Val de Toro ‘Reviresco’ 2010, Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano ‘Roggiano’ 2011, Fattoria di Magliano Maremma Toscana Rosso ‘Sinarra’ 2010, Alberese Pellegrone Morellino di Scansano 2008 and Azienda Agricola Castel di Pugna 2003. The latter wine is made on an ancient estate three kilometres from the centre of Siena. The owner, Conte Luigi Alberto Fumi Cambi Gado, is as traditional as his 12th-century wine cellar. The family crest is a tower in flames, commemorating a battle in 1259 when the Florentines attacked the Sienese and raised Valdipugna Castle to the ground. The Count has taken part in a project to recover and safeguard historical grape varieties that used to flourish around Siena — varieties with names like Gorgottesco, Salamanna, Occhio di Pernice and Tenerone. So there might just be additional synonyms for Sangiovese to come. •
illustration: FRancesco Gallé, www.francescogalle.com
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