Tidings November 2012

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//features 20// gotcha by the glass by tod stewart

Are restaurants gouging us?

22// what are you waiting for

by carolyn Evans-Hammond In defense of drinking up.

24// mav wine and spirits

44

awards 2012

Tidings selects the best in assemblages, spirits and beers.

28// Here’s a story

by Rick Vansickle

Yet another taster goes overboard.

32// Royalty by tony aspler

Hungary’s still wines make waves.

34// v v

by evan saviolidis One V for Victory, the other for Very Delicious.

37// why cellar?

by Crystal Luxmore

Do we really need to cellar beer?

40// the real raw deal

by Tod Stewart

Skills of a sushi master.

42// Sake.

22

by Brenda Mcmillan An exclusive tasting of 15 top sake.

44// cue the chef by duncan holmes

How I survived a pseudoIron Chef fight to the death.

48// Showdown by rosemary mantini

28

Planning your own Iron Chef battle.

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//Ă la carte 7// Contributors 8// from the editor 11// Conversations Letters to the editor.

13// feed

Tom Delarzac

14// Umami Joanne Will

17// lazy mixologist Crystal Luxmore

18// Bon Vivant Peter Rockwell

51// taste maker

sheila swerling-puritt

52// Davine

Gurvinder Bhatia

55// Bouquet Garni Nancy Johnson

66// final word Tony Aspler

17

55

//notes 50// the mav notes

54// the food notes

An appetizing selection of food-friendly faves.

58// The Buying Guide

Top wines from around the world scored.

Argentina // p. 58 Australia // p. 58 Canada // p. 58-61 chile // p. 61 France // p. 61-63 germany // p. 63 italy // p. 63 New Zealand // p. 63

52 4 // November 2012

Portugal // p. 63 South Africa // p. 63-64 spain // p. 64 United States // p. 64-65 spirits // p. 65 beer // p. 65

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//online

//contributors

+ more on tidingsmag.com

Follow us on twitter and tumblr Quenchbytidings.tumblr.com twitter.com/quenchbytidings Features Tom de Larzac has a true passion for all things food. Whether it be catering friends’ parties or experimenting on dinner guests, the creativity and sheer enjoyment of cooking has never escaped him. Rustic, imaginative and a disregard for proper plating is the best way to describe his cooking style.

Meet the 2012 Maverick Chefs.

travel Robert Hausner demonstrates how to shake off the blues in Europe.

wine tasting club We’re growing Zinfandel in BC!

Cooking School Make your guests’ mouths water by preparing some of the least expensive and tenderest cuts of meat — veal shanks, liver and tripe.

Cooking Challenge Rick VanSickle is a freelance wine writer who lives with his family in Niagara where a good bottle of wine is always nearby. He publishes a website called WinesInNiagara.com.

Tempt your sweet tooth with Chocolate-Filled Macarons.

blogs Get your food and wine fix, updated weekly.

This month, follow KitchenMama on her journey toward the ultimate crumpet.

Plus!

More original recipes; a daily serving of

food and drink news and views; culinary tips, tricks and techniques.

Evan Saviolidis is the Wine Tasting Challenge Grand Champion, Instructor for the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers, and teaches wine appreciation courses in Niagara at WineSavvy. For complete information, please visit www.evanwinesavvy.com.

Next Month In Tidings the key to Gifting wine Classic Old vines loving offals The importance of Concentration in your wine glass Blending whites in BC

Crystal Luxmore is a Toronto writer, editor and roving beer reporter. She writes a bi-weekly “Hopped Up” column in The Grid newspaper, and her stories have appeared in the Globe & Mail, ELLE Canada, The Walrus, Beer Advocate, Reader’s Digest and online for the New York Times and CBC. She’s starting a new column on mixology on page 17.

the winter of Barley wine St joseph, then and now ... And So Much More

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//from the editor November 2012 Issue # 307

\\

6 annual Mav wine and spirits awards th

has it all changed?

Not knowing what to write is the most frustrating thing on earth.

And even as I say that it sounds like an exaggeration. It’s an exaggeration because there are many other things I find nerve-wracking. Let me tell you about one.

Now this might sound like a long lost Jerry Seinfeld set but whatever happened to ... you can fill in the blank here. Whether it is soups, pre-prepared foods, Bordeaux blends or Sauvignon Blanc, it’s all changed dramatically. For example, most food stuffs have such a whopping amount of salt that even those with 40% less send your blood pressure shooting upwards.

And we don’t have to look too deeply into the recent history of wine to notice the upward trend towards eye-popping alcohol.

What is going on here? It seems like we are awash in excesses.

Just a few years ago I would never have imagined myself saying, “back in my day,” but come on. It does seem as if the past had all the answers. Things were done right. Maybe we are wrong though.

It might just be that we’re romanticizing the whole thing. It wouldn’t be far fetched to believe that nothing has changed.

In a certain sense nothing has changed. Wine isn’t different. It’s simply been following certain trends that have brought it to this point — overt concentration and high alchool. Groceries haven’t really become large and unwieldy. It’s just providing us more choice than we might know what to do with. So if nothing has changed, why do things feel so different?

Write us at editor@tidingsmag.com to let us know how you feel things have changed. We’ll publish the best responses in the February/March 2013 issue.

Editor-in-chief

Aldo Parise editor@tidingsmag.com Contributing Editors

Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart Contributing food Editor

Nancy Johnson Contributing Lifestyle Editor

Rosemary Mantini Columnists

Tony Aspler, Peter Rockwell, Tom de Larzac, Joanne Will, Crystal Luxmore, Sheila Swerling-Puritt Contributors

Sean Wood, Harry Hertscheg, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Rick VanSickle, Carolyn Evans-Hammond, Crystal Luxmore, Brenda McMillan, Duncan Holmes Tasters

Tony Aspler, Rick VanSickle, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Jonathan Smithe, Ron Liteplo and Gurvinder Bhatia COPY DESK

Grace Yaginuma, Kathy Sinclair web editor

Rosemary Mantini Creative by Paris Associates Art Direction

Aldo Parise Production

ww+Labs, cmyk design, studio karibü Illustrations & Photography

Matt Daley, Francesco Gallé, Push/Stop Studio, august photography, Westen Photo Studio Cover Design

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Audited by

8 // November 2012

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conversations\\

Kylix Media CFO

Lucy Rodrigues Circulation

circ@tidingsmag.com Accounts

Marilyn Barter accounts@tidingsmag.com Advertising Representation Dovetail Communications

Senior Account Executive Jacquie Rankin: jrankin@dvtail.com 9 05-886-6640 ext 304 Sales Associate Amanda Jones: ajones@dvtail.com 905-886-6640 ext. 308 www.tidingsmag.com www.tidingseats.com Now in our 39 th year Kylix Media, 5165 Sherbrooke St. West, Suite 414, Montreal, Quebec, H4A 1T6, Tel: 514.481.6606, Fax: 514.481.9699.

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Tidings, Canada’s Food & Wine Magazine, a registered trademark of Kylix Media, is published 8 times a year: (February/March, April, May/June, July/August, September, October, November, December/January).

Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. © 2012 Kylix Media Inc. Printed in Canada.

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Thank you, Duncan Holmes, for finally giving me a reason to love Caesar salad.

Whether it’s actually authentic or not doesn’t really matter to me. What does matter is that your combination of anchovy, garlic and Worcestershire proved to be the highlight of a very delicious meal.

... Their stories of passion and determination through thick and thin are truly inspiring ...

Ellen Creely, email

I really enjoy reading about all of the Maverick Chefs each year. Their stories of passion and determination through thick and thin are truly inspiring.

Sandra Pruce, Toronto

Gurvinder Bhatia’s take on organic, biodynamic and sustainable wines was refreshing. It brought home the point that a wine’s success rests almost entirely in the hands of the winemaker, nearly regardless of the quality of the grapes.

Don Jackson, email

It has always seemed to me that Portugal’s wines have been consistently undervalued. How many of us can honestly say we don’t automatically associate Portugal with poor and inconsistent wine quality?

It’s so nice to read about great wine coming out of that country, and even nicer to be able to buy the recommended bottles and try them for myself.

Al Levano, email

Tidings uses 10% post-consumer recycled fibres

I always look forward to Nancy Johnson’s recipes. My family’s favourite this month was definitely the Toasted Coconut Tea Bread. Yum! Carolyn Brimley, Vancouver

Material chosen for publication may be edited for clarity and fit. Please e-mail your comments and questions to editor@tidingsmag.com.

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another classic\\

by tom De larzac

PARSNIP AND APPLE SOUP serves 4

With the cooler weather upon us, comfort food somehow seems to satisfy in ways that other things can’t. For me, a toasted sandwich and a hearty bowl of soup is the perfect dinner after a gloomy day. Some of my earliest food memories are of my mom making large pots of all kinds of different soups: chicken noodle, tomato and everything in between — even pickle soup (which is much better than it sounds!)

I was in university when I realized that I enjoyed being in the kitchen (allowing me to survive), so I learned how to cook using a combination of books, tv and experimenting on friends.

Pots were on the stove, but typically they were filled with pasta.

Pasta evolved to stew. And stew evolved to braised meats and so on. However, one thing that never filled the pot was homemade soup. It wasn’t until I moved close to my parents that I started getting some of my mom’s tricks for a satisfying pot of soup.

Since then I have realized that sadly, soups have fallen off the radar, but their variety is endless, their simplicity surprising and their ability to satisfy that craving for comfort is next to none.

My mom’s homemade soups are still a big hit, and always a dish that gets me over to my parent’s house — especially when I hear there’s a “classic” on the stove. Today, those classic soups are being shared with a whole new generation … my nephews and my niece. Hopefully, one day their comfort food memories will be associated with the same soups that started it all for me.

1/4 lb bacon, chopped 3 tbsp olive oil 1 small onion 3 apples, medium dice (2 tart, 1 sweet) 3 large parsnips, medium dice 1 tsp cumin 4 cups of chicken stock (more if you prefer a thinner soup) 50 g brie cheese, diced 1. In a small frying pan over medium heat, render bacon until crispy.

2. In a medium-sized pot over medium heat add olive oil

and onions, sauté for 2 minutes. Add apples, parsnips, cumin and cook for another 4 minutes. Stir occasionally to avoid burning.

3. Add chicken stock and cook for 15 minutes or until parsnips are soft, stirring occasionally.

4. Using a hand blender, blend pot contents till smooth, and return onto low heat. Add additional stock (or water) if thinner consistency is desired.

5. Add brie and stir until all cheese has melted. Add salt and pepper to taste 6. Add bacon and rendered fat as a garnish to each bowl, serve and enjoy. …… The brie at the end adds a nice level of mouthfeel to the soup.

For that reason a bright Riesling or Gewürz will work well.

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umami she sells sea-buckthorn berries\\ by joanne will

When Betty Forbes and her family planted sea-buckthorn bushes in 1998, she didn’t know the brilliant orange berries would become her passion — and a second career. “At that time there was a fellow who was planning to build a processing plant in Wynyard, Saskatchewan,” says Forbes. “So I helped with planting and just carried on with my career. In 2006, my dad was going to plow everything under because unfortunately the fellow had died. Back then no one in North America really knew what sea-buckthorn was, and I was retiring, so I told my dad I’d see what I could do.”

Through her company, Northern Vigor Berries, Forbes harvests the family orchard near Kamsack, Saskatchewan and works with growers across the prairie provinces. She distributes berries for some, and helps others with the September harvest of this aptly named bush.

“It’s called sea-buckthorn and we mean it; the needles are long and sharp, and when you get them in your fingers it’s very painful. So we actually don’t pick berries, we cut branches. I have a reefer truck at the orchard where we freeze the branches, and the next day at -29˚C, the berries are knocked off. Not only does it save fingers, the skin on the berries is very thin and if you tried to hand-pick them you’d lose a lot because they tend to burst,” says Forbes.

Sea-buckthorn, which thrives in sandy soil and has long been used to help prevent erosion, is up there with açai and goji berries in terms of health properties. The seed contains omegas 3 and 6, and the pulp is rich in omega 7, vitamin E, and vitamin C.

14 // November 2012

It’s mentioned in ancient Tibetan medicinal texts, rumoured to have been consumed by Genghis Khan’s men and horses, and is used today by India’s National Department of Defence in jams, baking and teas to boost the immunity of soldiers.

“It’s a tropical, tangy flavour. We’re used to eating cranberries and all kinds of things with a bit of tang, and this also has a tropical element. Your imagination can go all-out, because it’s a berry and you can use it in all the things berries are used for. We used it as a marinade with wild boar and served it at the Saskatoon farmer’s market and people loved it,” says Forbes, who also makes a sorbet from the berries.

She sells the dried leaves for use in tea, and the berries are used by many chefs.

“Chefs use it in salad dressings and all kinds of things for just a bit of tang; one puts it in chocolate cake. A restaurant we supply makes smoothies for their clients. Another fellow makes an Indian smoothie called lassi, which means he adds yogurt and a bit of spearmint. One of the chefs at the Mendel Art Gallery in Saskatoon makes to-die-for scones with sea-buckthorn. Anthony McCarthy, chef at the Saskatoon Club, made a sea-buckthorn sauce with duck and won the 2011 provincial Gold Medal Plates championship. We make a sea-buckthorn gelato that’s absolutely delicious. Chefs also like to use it as a palate cleanser, or serve just a little at the end of the meal,” says Forbes.

Sea-buckthorn is grown coast to coast in Canada. If you’re looking for a local fruit with a tropical twist that’s available right through winter, you may be in luck.

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rockin’ rhizomes\\

For someone who grew up on reruns of Gilligan’s Island, ginger has always had a dazzling appeal. Just like the stranded movie star, the knobby rhizome is sweet and bright, with lots of heat.

Those qualities make it an excellent ingredient to freshen up cocktails in the hot months, and add a warming spice to winter tipples. At Toronto’s Café Belong, a local organic spot at the Evergreen Brickworks, mixologist Renata Clingen uses Fever-Tree ginger beer to spice up her “Winter Mojito,” made with Bacardi 8 rum, lime juice, cranberries, maple syrup and mint. She recommends Fever-Tree (developed by a British bartender) to add spice and bubbles to a drink. When she wants ginger spice without the extra water, Clingen makes a ginger syrup.

“If you’re experimenting, I’d recommend matching ginger up with fruits, especially some you might not regularly consider.

Ginger is so versatile, and the fruit you use gives you a clue as to what alcohol might work,” she says.

I experienced the rhizome’s versatility for myself while sipping Tannis Ling’s Chino Margarita at Bao Bei, a hip Chinese bar and restaurant in Vancouver’s Chinatown. The drink uses tangerine peel–infused tequila, sugar syrup, lime juice, ginger syrup and an egg white, all in a glass rimmed with dried tangerine peel, chili flakes, sugar and salt.

Bao Bei’s dishes and cocktails showcase how ginger adds depth and plays nicely with the classic “five spices” used in Chinese cuisine: star anise, cloves, cinnamon, pepper and fennel. And Ling says experimenting with these combinations in a cocktail or a simple syrup is a no-fail: “You can take any combination of those spices — or even cumin — and infuse any kind of alcohol, and it would probably work pretty well together.”

I decided to experiment for myself by tweaking Ling’s Chino Margarita recipe to embrace more of those five spices and add a wintertime warmth. And being a lazy mixologist, I wanted to cut down on the prep work.

+ Visit tidingsmag.com/drinks/ for more drink recipes

lazy mixologist by crystal luxmore

Instead of infusing the tequila, I combined two steps, making an orange, star anise and ginger syrup. I also changed the rim recipe — grinding up fennel, chili flakes and a bit of fresh cinnamon with salt for added warmth. Finally, I took Ling’s tip and added a heaping teaspoon of freshly grated ginger, which she says “has a brighter and more astringent flavour” than the syrup. I tried the margarita with and without the added ginger, and preferred the addition. It softened the tequila bite, added a zing not present in the syrup, and seemed to smooth the whole thing out — just like the breathy Gilligan’s Island character that bears its name.

wintertime five-spice margarita

Lime juice Chili flakes Fennel Cinnamon Salt 2 oz Tromba tequila 1/2 oz orange, ginger and star anise syrup (see recipe below) 1/2 oz fresh lime juice 1 heaping tsp grated ginger 1 egg white Coat rim of margarita with lime juice and line with equal parts ground-up chili flakes, fennel, cinnamon — but double the salt.

Combine remaining ingredients in a shaker with ice; shake until frothy, strain and pour.

orange, ginger and star anise syrup

Juice of three large oranges and water to make up 300 ml of liquid 1/2 cup of sliced ginger 1 1/2 seeds of star anise 300 g sugar Heat on medium until sugar dissolves and simmer for 15 minutes. Let sit overnight; strain and refrigerate. …… Tip: Those who like a tequila-forward margarita should skip the extra ginger — and a warning, the ginger pulp can plug up the shaker, so be patient when straining.

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figuring and maderizing\\

18 // November 2012

And it’s not just with Old-World countries that this trick works. Upstarts like Australia, Argentina, South Africa and, particularly, California, have embraced the slow-food mantra with gusto and their vintners have followed suit with wines that meet the challenge of their cuisine.

What’s the difference between oxidized and maderized?

Though two distinctly different problems, the end result of both is exactly the same: you’re going to be needing another bottle if your mission is to tip back a glass of wine without choking on it.

The definition of oxidization is undoubtedly more common to the average non-wine-lover because it’s a natural part of fruit maturation. Take the example of the common apple for instance. Who hasn’t taken a bite of one and left it forgotten on the kitchen counter. Rediscovered a few hours later, the bite mark is brown and decaying all thanks to exposure to oxygen.

Air exposure is a part of some winemaking processes (sherry is the best example), but in general, deterioration of a wine’s personality due to oxidization is caused by leaving an open bottle around for way too long.

Why some of you can’t finish a full bottle in one sitting is beyond me; the larger the air-to-liquid ratio you leave in the bottle, the faster your wine is going to fall apart. The fruit dies first so expect to recognize an oxidized wine by its dark colour and sherry-like aroma.

Maderization borrows its name from the famous fortified wine from the island of Madeira, which is heated to a point where the bottle takes on burnt or slightly cooked characteristics.

While it’s fine assisting Madeira’s output, heat is no friend of your average table wine; whether it’s due to improper shipping or storage, its influence can be identified by its dark, charred colour and aroma of almonds and stewed fruit.

A cork extending outside of the bottle neck is a dead giveaway that a wine has seen excessive heat at some point during its lifetime.

+ Ask your questions at bonvivant@tidingsmag.com

Illustration: Matt Daley/Shinypliers.com

Is there an easy way to figure out what wine goes with which food?

Ah, if life was only that simple. We’d always know what liquid to match with which solid and be able to beam from Point A to Point B just like on Star Trek. (Well a guy can dream, can’t he?)

Okay, so while the beaming thing is still a few years away, some marriages have been consummated in culinary heaven.

The union of Roquefort cheese and French dessert wines from the Sauterne region is a classic, as is the fortified goodness of port wine from Portugal with Stilton.

That said, though cheese may be synonymous with wine in the land of clichés, the palate-coating goodness of your favourite fromage has a tendency to lay down a barrier between your taste bud and even the least subtle of flavours in vino. As a general rule they really don’t match very well together.

Some might vote for a French Chablis with oysters, but my perfect pairing with the marvellous mollusc is the crisp, zingy personality found inside a bottle of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

One of the easiest unwritten rules is Riesling with just about anything — especially one of the original versions from Germany. The soft, fruity flavour of a decent Riesling waltzes most romantically with the eclectic — think ethnic-oriented dishes like Thai, Indian and Asian that tend to offer forward sweet, sour and spicy elements to their dishes.

If there is one trick to remember when it comes to ensuring what you pour in your glass has a fighting chance to match what you’ve slopped on your plate, it’s this: what’s made together, drinks and eats well together.

If a nation is known for good food and beverage there is no doubt that the two arts evolved on a parallel trajectory, with the stomachs of the locals influencing the path regional winemakers took to their tables.

What I mean is; if you’re serving an Italian dish, choosing juice that’s been crushed close to where the recipe originated will pretty much guarantee a sexy combination.

bon vivant

by peter rockwell

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Gotcha by by tod Stewart

the

Glass

That’s it, I’ve had enough. I’ve had it up to here with restaurants milking wine lovers like proverbial cash cows. Yes, we all know the bottle markups are typically outrageous. But then again, who actually orders by the bottle these days? With drinking-and-driving thresholds now so low that you risk being busted for sniffing a cork, a party of two is typically scared witless by the very concept of ordering a bottle by either the markup or the spectre of The Law. Probably both.

But some savvy restaurateurs have actually managed to turn this potentially profitless scenario to their advantage. They realize that a couple of people sitting down for a meal or maybe just a drink after work are not going to order a bottle, so they “help” the wine lover by offering a by-the-glass selection. Of course being a wine-friendly boîte doesn’t necessarily mean being a wallet-friendly one.

20 // November 2012

Out with Tidings writer Matthew Sullivan for some grub and a glass, I was charged $13 for five ounces of Muscadet. Which is about what a bottle of the stuff costs. Not to be outdone in the getting-hosed department, Matt cavalierly sprung for not one but two $15 glasses of Cali Sauv Blanc. Wine bill, before tax, more tax, tip, et cetera … $43. For 15 ounces. Probably coulda got a bottle for $43 and had 26 ounces. But I had to drive.

So, let’s have some fun with math. There are 26 ounces (sorry, I’m going old school with imperial here) in a bottle — roughly five five-ounce glasses. Divide the cost (for the restaurant) of the bottle by five, and a glass works out to be $2.60 (Actually a bit cheaper since restaurants often get a bit of a discount on retail prices.). I paid $13. That’s a 500 per cent markup. Now, a 300 per cent markup on a bottle, though still outrageous, is pretty much par for the course. But a freakin’ 500 per cent markup on a glass?

That’s robbery, plain and simple. (As an aside, many a restaurant will purchase wines that aren’t publicly available via a wine agent. Since the average Joe has no idea what the wine costs, the sky’s the limit as far as jacking up the prices goes. Those running the restaurant will claim that purchasing slightly obscure wines makes their list “more interesting.” However, I have my doubts that this is the real reason.)

In any case, I’d like to think we just happened to pick the most wallet-unfriendly wine-friendly joint in Toronto that night.

But this sorry scene has played itself out a number of times, in a number of locations and much to my financial detriment. I mean, is it really that much more costly for the restaurant to bring a glass to the table as it is a bottle? And staff don’t even have to pop a cork or unscrew a cap tableside (which, agreed, can up the degree of difficulty/danger level).

I can understand — or at least grudgingly accede — that an eatery that has installed a sophisticated and expensive wine-preservation system to display the bottle and ensure each subsequently siphoned glass is as fresh as the first might charge more per glass to cover this investment, but how many places have such gizmos?

While on the subject of freshness and being able to see the bottle, what the hell is the deal with simply marching a pre-poured

AGENCE DE VOYAGES W. H. HENRY INC.

TRAVEL AGENTS

glass to a table? Would it be too difficult to haul the bottle along so I can actually see that what’s being poured is what I chose from the wine list? I suspect this practice ensures that servers don’t accidentally pour a drop over the set amount. You know how much giving customers a drip or two extra eats into the restaurant’s bottom line.

And for God’s sakes, quit it with the oh-so-cute “mini carafes.” You know the ones I’m talking about — those wee darlings that hold no more than a glass but allow you the pleasure (or indignity) of pouring the wine into the actual drinking vessel yourself. Pouring myself five one-ounce servings does not make it feel as though I’m getting more, or make getting screwed out of $15 any easier to take. Plus I still can’t see the freakin’ label to determine if what I’m freakin’ pouring is what I’m supposed to be getting! Ahem.

Restaurateurs can whine all they want about the state of the economy, the lack of clientele and the stinginess of those who do walk through their doors. (Or about writers who are constantly bitching about how they’re all criminals.)

But until they stop treating intelligent wine lovers like morons and adopt civilized serving prices and practices, I’ll continue to wine and dine regularly at my personal favourite hangout … my home. •

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\\ 21

what are y waiting for in defense of drinking up

The vast majority of wine today is bottled ready to drink.

That means, most wine will not improve with time in bottle — whether it’s red, white, rosé or sparkling. In fact, it will probably be worse six months after bottling. So vintage matters — always.

“Perhaps the top 10 per cent of all reds and 5 per cent of all whites (and those are generous estimates) will be more pleasurable and more interesting to drink when they are five years old than at one year old,” according to wine expert Jancis Robinson, MW. “The top 1 per cent of all wine has the ability to improve for a decade or two — in some cases, even more. The great majority of all wine, however, will actually start to lose the fruitiness that gives it youthful appeal within six months of being bottled.”

That’s not to say all wine tastes only of primary fruit at bottling. Wines today can taste fresh, complex and texturally appealing at bottling using various methods, tastes that years ago could have only been achieved with time in barrel or bottle.

One such method is micro-oxygenation, a technique often encouraged by famous wine consultant Michel Rolland. This technique simulates the effects of barrel aging — developing complexity and a rounder mouthfeel — by dispensing tiny bubbles of oxygen though the wine. It simulates the racking process (transferring wine from one barrel or tank to another) but is far more precise and less risky. It matures a wine faster.

Maturity is, of course, different than age. A wine is mature when it drinks best — or tastes good to you, which is an important point. Actually, aged wine isn’t to everyone’s taste. Many people — and I would certainly argue most people — prefer the primary fruit flavours of a young wine.

It’s easier to enjoy a glass of strawberry-scented, satiny-textured young Burgundy than one that, after a couple of decades in bottle, tastes of manure. That said, just as some enjoy the

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borderline-disgusting taste of Limburger or Petite Muenster, some revere the deep flavour of aged red Burgundy, the earthysavoury notes of other older reds, the kerosene aromas of aged Riesling and so forth.

Maturity, though somewhat subjective, can also be objective.

There is a technical way to tell if a wine can still develop with time in bottle. As wine ages, the fruit or extract diminishes and tannins soften, but the alcohol (as well as acidity and sugar) remains the same. Until a wine reaches full maturity, the alcohol should remain nicely hidden by extract. If you taste heat in the back of your throat after the swallow, along with the flavour of alcohol on the finish, the wine is in decline. No one likes a wine martini.

If you do encounter a wine that’s in decline (and we all do), chill it down to mask the exposed alcohol, or make sangria or a spritzer.

Want to stack the odds in favour of drinking a wine in its prime? Pluck the most recent vintages from the shelves when shopping for wine, and drink up.

Cellars, to a large degree, aren’t necessary these days. Sure, I’m guilty myself of stashing some really great wines away in my cellar (which, by the way, is off site and offers ideal storage conditions — see the second item in the sidebar for what constitutes “ideal”). I like to lay down classed-growth Bordeaux and vintage Champagne from reliable producers because they become incredibly nuanced with time in bottle. And I like to pull a few bottles for special occasions to share with wine enthusiasts who understand these wines. But the stuff I drink most of the time is purchased as close to the time I plan to drink it as possible.

A good rule of thumb is if it’s under $25 or so, it was bottled at its best.

We are in the golden age of wine drinking.

you r? by carolyn evans-hammond

will it improve?

Getting the hang of spotting the aging potential of a wine takes some practice. So taste quite a bit. Here are some questions to help you figure out the bottle’s potential:

On that note, here’s a list of 10 bottles not to wait for because they’re drinking fabulously right now.

13th Street Winery White Palette 2011, Niagara, ON ($15) Henri Bourgeois Les Baronnes Sancerre 2010, Loire, France ($22) Maycas del Limarí Reserva Especial Chardonnay 2010, Limara Valley, Chile ($20) Domaine des Malandes Lyne Marchive Chablis, 2010, Burgundy, France ($19) Ironstone Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, California, US ($18) Schild Estate Old Bush Vine GMS Grenache/Mourvèdre/ Shiraz 2010, South Australia ($22) Catena Malbec 2010, Argentina ($20) Hardys Bankside Shiraz 2010, South Australia ($15) Engine Room Shiraz/Cabernet 2009, McLaren Vale, South Australia ($21)

1. Do I taste fruit or alcohol?

As noted above, as wine ages, the fruit falls out while the alcohol remains the same. If much alcoholic heat is felt, the wine is out of balance and in decline. It won’t improve. All you can do is chill it down to mask the exposed alcohol, or make sangria or a spritzer.

2. How rich is the extract relative to the alcohol?

A wine rich in extract relative to the alcohol will continue to evolve with time in bottle. The rate at which the fruit dries up depends on storage conditions. A cool, stable temperature of around 13°C, no vibration or bright light, and sufficient humidity to prevent the corks from drying out are best conditions for cellaring.

3. What colour is the rim?

The best way to determine a high-quality red wine’s technical maturity is by looking at the rim — where the wine meets the glass. Red wines start as purple then, with age, turn ruby, brick and finally brown. Brownish hues suggest the wine is past its best. White wines’ maturity is less obvious visually.

4. Do I like it?

Of course, this is the most important, but ask the other questions first so at least you know why you think the wine is too mature for your palate. Taste is a spectrum. And where you plot yourself is personal, and changeable.

Mayu Reserva Carmenère 2009, Elqui Valley, Chile ($18) •

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Louis Latour BâtardMontrachet 2009, Burgundy, France ($250) Toasty brioche notes, lemon zest and Asian pear on the nose of this lofty Chardonnay. It’s smoky-toasty on the palate with layered fruits that are broad in the mouth and textured. Tightly knit, it will improve for 5 to 10 or 15 years. (RV)

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Flying Monkeys Smashbomb Atomic IPA, Ontario ($17/6pk)

Wine and Spirits Awards 2012

Six years in, the Mav Wine and Spirits Awards continues to feature the most interesting assemblage to be released in recent history. And that’s not all. We found an amazing number of spirits and beers. Visit tidingsmag.com to give us your top picks. Collated and tasted by Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Harry Hertscheg, Rick VanSickle, Evan Saviolidis, Tod Stewart, Sean Wood, Ron Liteplo, Carolyn EvansHammond and Jonathan Smithe.

Copper colour with aroma of citrus hops, tropical fruit and spice; flavours of grapefruit, orange peel, exotic fruit, spices, and a great floral bitterness on the finish. Complex and intriguing. (GB)

Mikkeller Beer Geek Breakfast Oatmeal Stout, Denmark ($8)

Lots going on in this beer, but great balance of roasted malt, coffee and chocolate, rich and creamy texture, full flavours, a touch of citrus hoppiness, not overly sweet or bitter, great complexity and a long finish. (GB)

Trius Grand Red 2010, Niagara ($55)

This is the top wine made under the Trius label, which is owned by the Peller family of wines. The Grand Red, a Bordeaux-style blend of Merlot, Cab Franc and Cab Sauvignon, is an age-worthy wine with a nose of rich black fruits, sweet oak, and layers of spice. It’s tightly wound with a firm bed of dusty tannins but just beginning to reveal blackcurrants, plum, lavish spices and layers of interest.

Will improve for 10 years or more, or enjoy now with a big, juicy steak. (RV)

Yalumba Octavius Shiraz 2006, Barossa Valley, Australia ($99)

This traditional Barossa Shiraz from Australia’s oldest family-owned winery — Yalumba — is an incredible force. Cascading flavours of black fruit, mocha, liquorice, fig, chocolate, white pepper and on and on. The structure is firm with well-integrated tannins and balanced acidity and alcohol.

Long and lush. A top-notch Barossa Shiraz by any yardstick. (CH)

James MacArthur’s Fine Malt Selection Glen Ord 12 Year Old ($95/700 ml)

At once delicate and complex, this malt offers up an expressive nose of toasted grains, mild honey, a whiff of smoke and some fruity notes reminiscent of pear.

Mildly spicy on the palate, with sweet barley, vanilla, citrus and cocoa powder. (TS)

Old Masters Linkwood 12 Year Old Single Barrel, Cask #11650 ($136/700 ml) Earthy and slightly briny, with overtones of smoke, tobacco, barley and cloves on the nose. Weighty in the mouth with layers of toasted barley, black pepper, baked apple and some grassy/hay nuances and a hint of anise. Finishes long and warm. (TS)

Burgess Cellars Enveiere 2002, Napa, USA ($43)

A Meritage blend of 5 classic Bordeaux varietals, this is deep garnet and smells entrancingly of strawberry jam drizzled with crème Anglaise, a hint of smoke and marmalade.

The high alcohol (14.5%) is evident, but it is otherwise well-balanced and is rich with stewed fruit flavours.

Drink now. (RL)*

Black Hills Alibi 2011, Okanagan ($25) The fragrance charms with scents of citrus, ripe melon, tropical spice and fresh-cut lawn. The medium-body palate fills with white peach, grapefruit and passion fruit. The Sauv Blanc (75%) confers sleekness, while barrel-fermented Sémillon (25%) imbues lingering richness.

Spectacular with chili squid. (HH)

Old Masters Glendullan 12 Year Old Single Barrel, Cask #5059 ($128/700 ml)

Fairly complex aromas sporting notes of roasted grain, beeswax, lanolin, lemon zest and vanilla with hints of cut grass, vanilla and white flowers. Assertive, malty/ grainy flavours enhanced by some candied fruit that lingers into the peppery finish. (TS)

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Sierra Milenario Tequila Extra Añejo, Mexico ($70/700 ml)

Gin Mare Mediterranean Gin Colección de Autor, Spain ($50)

Characteristic juniper scent is readily apparent on the nose together with citrus peel, a definite whiff of thyme and a suggestion of olive. Resinous rosemary scent can also be picked up with fragrant basil in the background. Silky smooth on the palate with a complex array of subtle flavours that linger forever on the finish. Good enough to drink neat or with a few ice cubes. Among the very finest gins one can buy. (SW)

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Designer tequilas have been gaining in popularity for a number of years now.

And that’s a good thing.

The bad thing is that sometimes the well-aged “añejos” have more to do with wood than they do tequila. Thankfully, this is not the case with Sierra Milenario’s “extra aged” version. Though the three years the spirit spends in cask does lend some warm, oaky notes, they do not interfere with the true tequila character. Aromas of clove and pumpkin lead into smooth, silky, complex flavours with herbal, caramel and white-pepper highlights. (TS)

Booker’s Small Batch Bourbon 7 years, USA ($70) At 128.6 proof, drinking this bourbon neat can be a bit of a challenge, though many suggest this is the preferred way to enjoy it. Coffee, black pepper, charred wood, vanilla, clove and orange peel characterize the distinctive aromatic profile. Hot, powerful and assertive with spicy/smoky flavours enhanced by tobacco, spicy rye and vanilla bean nuances that carry it into a long, warm finish. (TS)

Eagle Rare 10 Year Old Single Barrel Bourbon, USA ($48)

Smoky oak; some sweet toffee notes with a touch of almond and some herbal aromatics. Silky, viscous and complex with some buckwheat honey, blackcurrant and candied orange in the mouth. The finish is long, memorable and seductive. (TS)

Bouchard Père & Fils Chevalier-Montrachet 2009, Burgundy, France ($260) White flowers, poached pear, apple, purity of fruit and flinty minerality on the nose of this lush showstopper of a Chard. It is intense, with overt fruits that come at you in wave after wave with neatly woven minerals and spice. (RV)

Churchill Barco Alto 2005, Douro, Portugal ($20)

Medium-deep garnet, with suspended fine particles. Smells of cherry jam, coffee, leather and roasted red peppers.

Plenty of fruit (raisins, figs) and still-gruff tannins promise this will plateau gracefully for a few years. (RL)*

Estate Argyros Vinsanto 1990, Santorini, Greece ($102)

This is a truly majestic wine from an equally majestic island! After the grapes were harvested, they were laid to rest under the hot Mediterranean sun for 14 days. The resulting raisins were pressed, vinified and then stored away in old wood casks for 18 years. An explosion of caramel, dried fruits soaked in honey, nuts and spice gives way to a viscous and sweet palate, with low acidity. Glorious stuff! (ES)

Benjamin Bridge Vineyards Nova 7 2011, Nova Scotia ($25) A Canadian Moscato D’Asti that’s a pure delight.

Very pale in colour with a nose of orange blossom and honeysuckle. The initial attack is off-dry with honey and orange flavours but it finishes with zesty acidity. So light it fairly dances on the palate with the faintest of petillance. (TA)

Sergio Traverso Carménère/Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva 2003, Curico, Chile ($23)

Youthful-looking, deep plum-red. The nose, though, is more mature, with stewed plums, a bit of barnyard, leather and pipe tobacco. After those scents, the wine surprises: light-bodied with fresh acidity based on blackcurrants and blackberries. The tannins are very soft, but it still has a few years of life. (RL)*

Emiliana Gê 2008, Colchagua Valley, Chile ($75) Rich, dark and fresh with bright aromas of blackberries, black cherries, spice, mint and tobacco, a full, mouth-coating texture and firm, velvety tannins.

Multi-dimensional and multi-layered blend of Syrah, Carménère and Cabernet Sauvignon, and a great match with wild game. (GB) •

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a

here’s by rick Vansickle

story 28 // November 2012

a

y

Château du Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

There was nothing striking about the average-looking man in the smart blue blazer as he approached the spittoon swiftly and with purpose. His lips were squeezed tight as he swished, savoured, and contemplated the wine he had drawn into his mouth.

But things were about to get weird.

Suddenly, he lunged forward, violently, as if to liberate the contents in his mouth into one of the large buckets spread around the room. But he didn’t spit it out.

He tilted his head back, rolled his eyes and began swishing all over again, drawing in air as the wine gurgled loudly in his mouth. He had staked his spot beside the spittoon and a crowd started gathering, albeit at a safe distance. He leaned into the spit bucket with a series of wildly undulating false alarms, rocking like a man possessed, each time appearing to discharge his wet cargo. One, two, three … seven, eight, nine … 14, 15, 16, 17, his head bobbing like a starving chicken, each time looking as if he would finally unleash the Grand Cru Burgundy in his mouth.

From time to time the bravest of the wine tasters would sneak in a quick spit in between his lunges, but most kept their distance out of fear of being spat upon or simply because they didn’t know what this unusual man was doing.

I was standing with Walter Tommasi, a wine journalist from Brazil, trying to make sense of what was going on. Was it a joke? (It certainly was funny; we were laughing our heads off at a safe distance.) Was he paid to put on some sort of mock performance of a wine journalist spitting spent wine? (The organizers said no.)

Without warning, as the crowd of gawkers grew larger, the man lunged one more time. It was lucky No. 18, as the slavering mess hit its target. A bull’s eye! The man, oblivious to all the spectators, had a look of pure relief, like he had just experienced the most pleasurable moment of his life (if you know what I mean). He straightened his jacket, turned and was lost in the crowd as he headed back for another taste only to repeat the process several more times.

That performance, while curious, was but a brief interlude in an otherwise spectacular tasting of some of Burgundy’s greatest Grand Crus, 45 of them (Chardonnays on one side, Pinot Noirs on the other) lined up for us to taste blind on the fourth day of a five-day journey through Burgundy. Every two years, select wine journalists from around the globe are invited to the Grands Jours de Bourgogne, an intense exploration of the main Burgundian regions.

chablis

It just may be the world’s most recognizable name in wine, so finally crossing through the “Golden Gates of Burgundy” into the historic town of Chablis after a rather dull two-hour drive from Paris, one is struck with a sense of awe.

The town of Chablis is remarkably quaint, a throwback to simpler times hundreds of years ago, with narrow brick streets and limestone walls surrounding homes that have survived for hundreds of years. The smell of woodsmoke hangs heavy in the air.

It is as if time had stood still here.

The vineyards of Chablis are planted along the River Serein, where the Cistercian monks from the abbey of Pontigny began growing vines in the 12th century. The AOC, or appellation, of Chablis was created in 1938, establishing a distinct style of dry white Chardonnay that is recognized, and copied to some extent, the world over.

The wines take their personality directly from the Jurassic limestone soils laid down some 150 million years ago. The rock contains deposits of tiny fossilized oyster shells.

Grand Cru Chablis represents the best of the best and is only reserved for seven terroirs within Chablis: Blanchot, Bougros, Les Clos, Grenouilles, Preuses, Valmur and Vaudésir. The grapes for these wines come from 103 hectares of vineyards in the northeast part of Chablis, facing the sun at altitudes of 100 to 250 metres along the right bank of the River Serein.

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A morning tasting of 160 producers from the region, crammed into the Maison des Vins à Chablis in the centre of the village, is an opportunity to enjoy the various styles of the region. Over 100 wine journalists are swirling, sniffing, tasting and spitting wines from producers divided into tents and buildings set up for the grand tasting of Chablis and Auxerrois wines.

Producers are showing both their 2009 and 2010 Chardonnays, two vintages that couldn’t be more different from another. The vintage in 2009 in most of Burgundy was warm, while 2010 was more classic and a better reflection of the unique style of Chablis.

The talk around the tasting tables is the use of oak in the region. Historically, Chablis was made with very little oak aging to keep the wines crisp and fresh. But more and more oak is creeping into the wines, especially at the Premier and Grand Cru levels.

I discuss this with Jean-François Bordet of Domaine Séguinot-Bordet, one of the oldest producers in Chablis tracing their history back to 1590. Bordet is the grower, winemaker and marketer, which means he does it all, at his estate.

“We make unique, pure wines, elegant wines from our very special terroir,” he tells me.

The “freshness” of Chablis comes directly from the sea that millions of years ago covered the region. “We can smell the salt,” he says.

Bordet says there are two trains of thought with modern Chablis, which has divided Old World purists and New World wine lovers. The use of new oak barrels, which gives wine its spicy notes, is becoming popular with the more expensive Grand Crus and Premier Crus.

“Some winemakers want to bring something special to their wines,” he says. “Everyone wants to do whatever they want. I prefer used oak, which brings a roundness to the wines without drowning the fruit in spice and vanilla.

“Chablis is a good brand. It’s unique and very special, not like Australia or Chile,” he continues. “Our winemakers have to make the best of Chablis because it’s known everywhere in the world.”

vosne-romanée

Standing on the edge of arguably the greatest vineyard on the planet, on a warm and sunny spring day, one gets a sense of awe and disbelief that from this tiny plot of land so much pleasure has been delivered to so few people through the decades of time.

It is so small you could walk around it in 15 minutes, and the earth is brick red, the rows of vines furrowed in their winter dormancy, and the bare vines are gnarly, thick and beautifully asymmetric as they jut from the ground.

Romanée-Conti, considered by many to be the greatest vineyard in the world producing the greatest wines in the world, is a short walk behind the village of Vosne-Romanée on a southeastern-facing hillside in the famous Côte d’Or region of Burgundy.

It is not hard to find. Just look for the tourists that pose for pictures with the biodynamic-organic vineyard as the backdrop.

30 // November 2012

And, of course, there is the tall, grey and weathered stone cross, brilliantly lit in the morning sun on this day, that towers over a section of the ancient stone wall that lies between a narrow road and the vineyards. The date on the cross reads 1723.

There is no fence around this most famous of vineyards, just a small note attached to the wall that asks tourists not to enter the vineyards. But you can walk the perimeter of the 1.8-hectare Pinot Noir vineyard and revel in the history and admire the limestone, red clay, gravel and pebbles that define it.

You can look, you can smell and you can admire it, but most of us can only dream of tasting what comes from it.

I have only tried the top wine from Romanée-Conti once.

In many ways, it was a mistake. It was mind-blowing, so intense and saturated in flavour yet delicate and finessed on the palate. Now, every time I try Pinot Noir I think back to that single taste of Romanée-Conti and I am disappointed. Nothing comes close to it. It has ruined me for life.

Since we had just visited the holy grail for Pinot Noir, it was only fair that we make a quick trip to another historic and aweinspiring vineyard, what many consider to be the holy grail for Chardonnay in the world.

The Montrachet vineyard is situated in the southern tier of the Côte de Beaune (which is in the southern half of the Côte d’Or) between the two communes of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet and is surrounded by four other Grand Cru vineyards all having Montrachet as part of their names.

The Montrachet vineyard differs from Romanée-Conti (other than one is Chardonnay and the other is Pinot Noir) in that it is much larger with nearly eight hectares (compared to 1.8) planted. Ownership is divided by 26 different producers who turn out 47,000 bottles annually of the Grand Cru wine.

Domaine Romanée-Conti, which owns outright the entire Romanée-Conti vineyard, has a tiny piece of Montrachet (0.67 hectares) and produces what many feel is the greatest Chardonnay in Burgundy with its tiny 3,000-bottle production and prices that fetch $4,500 a bottle.

While I did not taste wines from the Montrachet vineyard or the Romanée-Conti vineyard, I was treated to a taste of the finest Crus from Burgundy at a spectacular tasting of Grand Crus at the grand Château du Clos de Vougeot in Côte de Nuits. The castle, built in 1551, is surrounded by the 50.6-hectare Clos de Vougeot vineyard that was created by Cistercian monks of Cîteaux Abbey, the order’s mother abbey.

In the early 2000s, Clos de Vougeot was split among more than 80 owners and is now run co-operatively.

At a tasting of 45 Grand Crus arranged for wine media, the wines were poured blind, meaning we didn’t know what we drinking until they were revealed after the tasting.

It was a thrilling experience. Echezeaux, Grands Echezeaux, Romanée Saint-Vivant, Chambertin, Clos de la Roche and Clos de Vougeot (Grand Cru reds) and Batard-Montrachet, Corton, Corton le Corton, Chablis Vaudesir and Chablis les Clos (Grand Cru whites) were all poured in a once-in-a-lifetime tasting. Each wine more thrilling than the next.

Over 100 wine scribes dove into the tasting at a fervent pace, sniffing, swirling and spitting mouthfuls of wine that will fetch hundreds, even thousands of dollars a bottle by the time they reach Canadian store shelves.

It was truly magical.

Our evening finished with a meal fit for kings and queens.

The biggest hunk of marbré de foie gras pâté was served with the 2005 Bouchard Père & Fils Grand Cru Corton le Corton. Heavenly best describes this Pinot Noir with the duck pâté pairing. A raspberry explosion, finessed and opening like a flower with the savoury duck dish.

Next up was la canette des Dombes (female duck from Dombes, near Lyon) paired with the 2002 Maison Jean-Claude Boisset Mazis-Chambertin. The age of this Pinot was perfect with its lavish red fruits, toasty oak spice and balancing tannins that melted the already tender duck.

But the greatest pairing of the meal was a regional cheese plate served with a Louis Jadot Bâtard-Montrachet from 1982 (yes, 1982!). The Chardonnay oozed minerality and buckwheat honey, lanolin, slate, charred wood, warm apple and candied-citrus notes. It truly was a hedonistic experience and a wonderful exclamation point on a thrilling meal.

nuits-saintgeorges

traordinary, with layers of fruit and spice, a touch of brioche and a fine oak spice that excites the palate. Magnifique!

We breeze through dozens of barrel samples: Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru La Combe aux Moines, Corton, Echezeaux, Clos de Vougeot and the star of this tasting, the Mazy-Chambertin, a bramble-berry, mineral bomb that is already showing both power and finesse on the palate.

Marchand has over 25 years of winemaking experience at renowned Burgundy domaines such as Comte Armand, Domaine

pascal marchand

I am standing completely alone in a cavernous, dark, dank and frightfully chilly underground cellar in the heart of Nuits-Saint-Georges.

I ask myself, “Who wears a short-sleeved linen shirt in Burgundy?”

Somewhere in here, Montreal-born winemaker Pascal Marchand is foraging for barrel samples from the 2010 vintage.

He emerges from a far corner of the cellar with a basket full of Chardonnay from the Abbaye de Morgeot vineyard in Chassagne-Montrachet, in the Côte de Beaune. The vineyard was recently purchased by Marchand’s Canadian partner Moray Tawse, and will be the first domaine wine bottled under the Marchand-Tawse label.

It is here that Marchand and Tawse, Marchand’s 50-50 partner in Burgundy and the Toronto businessman who also owns Niagara’s Tawse winery, make a range of Marchand-Tawse wines from a combination of sourced fruit and vineyards that Tawse has recently purchased, as they expand their range of Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune wines.

The Chassagne-Montrachet is exquisite, with toasted almonds, ripe apples, minerals and well-integrated citrus notes through the finish.

Marchand continues to pull samples, a Corton-Charlemagne next, then a Marchand-Tawse Grand Cru Bâtard-Montrachet, the most expensive wine made at the property at €175 that is ex-

de la Vougeraie and Jean Féry, and as a consultant in Chile, California, Canada (Tawse, Le Clos Jordanne) and Australia.

Tawse and his family have vineyard holdings in Argentina and Niagara, and just last year acquired Domaine Maume in Gevrey-Chambertin, expanding his family holdings in Burgundy, which include Premier Cru vineyards in Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet and Beaune.

The partnership between Marchand and Tawse is built on mutual respect and a passion for wine. The goal is to craft up to 80,000 bottles of wine from the vineyards of Burgundy.

“I don’t think we want to be much bigger in size,” says Marchand.

Both partners believe in biodynamic-organic principles for the vineyards now owned by Tawse, and that includes plowing the vineyards by horse for everything Premier Cru and above and minimal intervention of the wine through the winemaking process.

As for finding a market for the Marchand-Tawse label, Marchand says he looks to Canada, the US, Europe and Japan.

I ask him about China, the huge emerging market that has kept prices for Burgundy and Bordeaux at all-time highs.

“I’m still hesitant to sell to China,” Marchard says. “I’m not interested in label drinkers.” •

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royalty Kertész Etyeki Chardonnay 2009

Straw colour, and a ripe nose of tropical fruits. Spicy with piercing acidity, with a good length. Tastes like a Russian River Chardonnay.

by tony aspler

Hungary is the only country in the world whose national anthem sings the praises of its native wine Tokaji (pronounced by Hungarians as “toe-koy”). This sweet wine invented in the 16th century was a favourite of Peter the Great, but it got its enduring third-party endorsement from Louis XV who dubbed it vinum regum, rex vinorum (“the wine of kings and the king of wines”). Tokaji was believed to be a panacea capable of curing a variety of ailments — everything from anemia to erectile dysfunction.

When you think of the area, the only wines that may spring to mind are Tokaji and Bull’s Blood of Eger; but with sweet wines falling out of favour and the growing interest in international-style reds, Hungarian winemakers have been forced to grow wines that the home and international market wants. While Tokaji is still made, the emphasis is, thank heavens, now on dry wines made from the grapes that have been traditionally used in the production of the dessert wine — Furmint and Hárslevelű.

Kékfrankos, Kadarka and Blauburger are slowly giving way to Pinot Noir, Syrah and the Bordeaux varieities, especially Cabernet Franc. And Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc plantings are increasing.

On a trip to Hungary earlier this year I was impressed by the Cabernet Francs from the Villány region and Takler’s wine in Szekszárd; and the Bordeaux-style blends from Kiss Gábor, Malatinszky, Kúri , Heimann’s Barbár and Villa Tolnay in Szekszárd, Vida, and Gróf Buttler’s Bordeaux varietals. I also enjoyed the Furmints from IFDTa , Vylyan and Szent Benedek and loved the Szamorodni from Tokaj Kereskedőház (like a vin jaune). But Tokaji still remains the glory of Hungary.

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Pócz Kokas-Hegyi Chardonnay 2009, Dél-Balaton

Deep straw colour, and an intense, spicy nose (touch of botrytis?). Dry, soft on the palate and mouth-filling. Nicely integrated oak with a spicy finish and a resiny note.

Fríz Mátrai Hárslevelű 2008

Old-gold colour, and a honeyed, botrytis note. Orange marmalade, mature and nicely balanced with great length. A dried apricot finish.

Vylyan Gombás Pinot Noir 2008

Ruby colour. Earthy, and beetroot and raspberry with a floral note. A firmly structured, dry, elegant and well-made Pinot.

Eszterbauer Chardonnay 2011

Medium straw colour, and with apple and barnyard notes. Medium bodied with a dry, rustic crabapple flavour with a crisp, lemony acidity.

Eszterbauer Kadarka 2009

Ruby-purple colour, and an earthy-spicy, cherry nose. Spicy black cherry with a floral grace note. Light on the palate in spite of 13.5% alcohol.

Eszterbauer Bikavér 2009

Deep ruby colour, and an earthy blackcurrant and plum nose. A rich mouthfeel, dry with a floral uplift on the finish. (38% Kekfrankos, 8% Kadarka and 16% Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir.)

Eszterbauer Tivald 2007

Dense purple colour, and a cedar, gamey, blackcurrant nose. Sweet fruit with a dark chocolate note. Firm on the palate with drying tannins; needs time. (100% Cabernet Sauvignon.)

Szepsy Szamorodni 2008

A spicy, luscious wine with tropical fruit flavours, and a rich mouthfeel with great balance. (70% Furmint, 25% Hárslevelű and 5% Yellow Muscat; two years in barrel.)

Orosz Gábor Betsek Furmint 2009

Deep straw with a lime tint, and a minerally, toasty-oak, spicy nose. Dry, ripe fruit flavours of peaches and spring flowers; full-bodied with citrus acidity.

Orosz Gábor Nyúlászó Furmint Hárslevelű 2009

Straw colour with a lime tint. Fragrant, spicy, fruity peach flavour with very lively acidity.

Orosz Gábor Sárgamuskotály 2009

Golden with a lime tint, and spicy orangeblossom nose. Sweet, honeyed orange with a floral note, beautifully balanced and clean. Soft and full on the palate. Like biting into a sweet Muscat grape.

Bodvin Betsek Muscat Lunel 2011

Tank sample. Spritzy, spicy, grapey.

Perfumed, fresh and lively, and easy drinking.

Dobogó Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2006

Old gold colour. High-toned, orange-anddried-apricot flavour with an intriguing floral note. A barley sugar finish.

Gróf Degenfeld Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2006

Old gold colour. Intense, honeyed tropical fruit with a botrytis note, concentrated orange, honey and nectarine flavours. Medium-bodied and elegant with a great length.

Royal Tokaji Dry Furmint 2010 Straw coloured, with a spicy pear and quince nose and a floral grace note.

Orosz Gábor Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2003

Old gold and amber colour, and a nose of vanilla oak, orange and honey. Beautifully balanced flavours of clean-and-pure orange, dried apricot and honey, with an engaging tobacco.

Puklus Tokaji Aszúeszencia 2003

Light bronze colour, high-toned, botrytis nose of orange peel and honey. Full-onthe-palate sweet but well balanced with acidity. Great length.

István Szepsy Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2006

One of the best dessert wines I’ve tasted — rich barley sugar and orange flavours, mouth-filling but not cloying, very elegant with a flavour that stays on the palate for an unconscionable time.

229-grams-per-litre residual sugar, 10-grams-per-litre acidity and 10.5% alcohol. Just an amazing wine. Wonderful mouthfeel and great length.

Royal Tokaji Eszencia 2007 Light amber colour, honey and spicy apricot, unctuous and thick on the palate. Too rich to mark. 700-gramsper-litre residual sugar and 22-gramsper-litre acidity!

…… Visit your liquor board web site to get current pricing. •

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VV by evan saviolidis

34 // November 2012

92 Quinta da Soalheiro Primeiras Vinhas Alvarinho 2011, Monção and Malgaço ($20)

There has always been a vinous battle, of sorts, in Northern Portugal. In the west, the Minho region and the Atlantic-influenced (read cool) whites and reds of Vinho Verde. In the east, sheltered behind mountains, the arid Douro Valley, and its famed Ports and powerful dry red wines. All things being equal in the minds and palates of wine lovers, it has been the eastern wines which have been the favoured ones, due to the strength factor.

This past summer, I had the honour of being asked to be a presenter at the first Vinho Verde seminar in Ontario, as well as to judge, in Portugal, the annual Vinho Verde competition. At first I felt a little bit of trepidation. More precisely, my thought was “What the hell am I getting myself into!” Why? Well, simply put, what we have seen from VV, at least in Ontario, has been less than stellar.

That ember of hesitation was quickly extinguished after I remembered the evolution that has transpired in many previously less-regarded regions: Greece, Jura and Georgia, to name a few.

Indeed, after tasting the wines both in Toronto and Portugal, I can say emphatically that the quality has started to crescendo.

But, this was not always the case.

Historically, Vinho Verde was the first wine to have been exported from Portugal, not its more famous vinous rival to the east. Starting in the 12th century, boats from Flanders, Britain and Germany would bring salt cod, textiles and others goods to the Portuguese kingdom. The captains, faced with the prospect of returning with empty hauls, and no profit, made the financial decision of stocking up on the local wine.

In the 16th century, with the arrival of maize as a food source for the growing population, a unique bi-agricultural system was created. The corn would grow in the middle of the land, while the vines were pushed to the boundaries. Trellising occurred up posts and trees, a system known as enforcado, or over the corn via a pergola system known as ramadas.

This prosperity lasted until the early 1700s. It is at this time that the fledgling Port industry started to ascend, through strong investment by the English. Then, in 1756, the Marquis of Pombal issued his famous protectionist decree in favour of Port/Douro wines. Part of his edict mandated the grubbing up of all vines outside of the Douro region, so as to protect the financially beneficial trade between England and Portugal. The one notable exception was Vinho Verde. The lighter wines were not perceived as a threat against the brawny wines of the Douro.

To this very day, that sting to the psyches of the VV producers still exists. After having talked to many a vigneron, I still sensed a certain child-left-behind syndrome.

Soalheiro translates as “sun trap,” which accurately describes the climactic conditions in Verde’s warmest region.

That being said, this is the finest Alvarinho I have ever tasted. Made from vines first planted in 1974, and lightly oaked, this full-bodied wine is slightly less aromatic than the regular bottling, but is more unctuous. The peach, lime, flowers and minerals carry long into the sunset.

91 Aphros Silenus 2009, Lima ($18)

After tasting this Vinhão, I thought to myself, “It is about time that someone makes serious red Vinho Verde.” This biodynamic producer has no interest in making the fizzy pop that predominates. Rather, it concentrates on serious red-vinification methods. It possesses an opaque black core with violet rim. Nine months in new oak has created an explosive combination of toast, coffee, plums, mocha, violets, spice and black cherries. There is excellent length and enough tannin to age for five years. As a side note, I tried their non-oaked Vinhão. It is equally impressive and scored 90 points. These wines are the future of red Verde production.

90 Quinta de Soalheiro Alvarinho 2010, Monção and Melgaço ($19)

Owner Luís Cerdeira believes that Alvarinho possesses similarities to Riesling. I can’t disagree. Peach, flowers, honey, lime zest and a mineral edge dance along fine acidity. The finish is long, and there is more than just a passing resemblance to a fine dry Rheingau.

88 Quinta de Gomariz Loureiro 2011, Ave ($15)

Gomariz, which is located in the sub-region of Ave, is famous for their single-varietal VVs. At this year’s Vinho Verde awards, they were the big winners, taking home three gold medals, including for this one. White peach, white flowers, green plums and minerals are framed on a medium body. There is very good length and it is ready to drink. Pair with clams cooked in garlic, lemon and olive oil.

87 Quinta de Gomariz Espadeiro Rosado 2011, Ave ($15)

Espadeiro is a red grape that is late ripening. Even when fully ripe there is low pigmentation, and the grape is best suited for rosé production. The texture is soft, with strawberries, hibiscus, cranberries and cinnamon present both on the nose and the palate.

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the grapes

In total, there are 47 authorized grapes, of which six whites and four reds are preferred. The king of all whites, Alvarinho, is also the most expensive because of small yields. Grown primarily in the Monção and Melgaço sub-region, and to a lesser degree, farther inland where it is warmer, Alvarinho produces wine with 13-plus-per-cent alcohol, with crisp acidities and aromas of pineapple, tropical fruit, peach and banana. Loureiro is primarily a coastal grape, with a propensity to high yields. Grown with respect, it produces floral and citrus wines. Azal, the highest-acid grape, is known for lemon and green apple. Avesso’s hallmarks are peach, orange and nuts. Arinto is all about apple, pear and flowers. Trajadura, with its low acid and high alcohol, is used as salt and pepper, to round out the blends.

In terms of reds, Vinhão is the workhorse. It produces saturated purple wines, making Shiraz look like Pinot Noir. Others include Borraçal, Amaral and Alvarelhão. Espadeiro and Padeiro, even though red by birth, are used primarily for rosé production, due to low pigmentation.

the region and appellations

Vasco Croft from Afros

modern era

In 1908, the region received its official demarcation. Rules controlling viti-vini arrived in 1929. Stylistically though, outside Portuguese communities, the wines lacked gravitas, because of colour and style. The majority of grapes (red) were harvested for low alcohols, vinified and then bottled before malolactic. The second fermentation would then transpire in the bottle, imbuing the wines with fizz and off aromas. Combined with green tannins, it left a bad taste in the mouth.

Starting in the 1960s, with winemakers travelling abroad and foreign consultants bringing their expertise, an internal rationalization led to a philosophical transformation in regards to both grape growing and vinification. The vineyards were transformed, replacing archaic methods with modern trellising, albeit at higher altitudes, to ward off the possibility of rot due to the region’s high rainfall. More importantly, it was the white varietals that supplanted the reds, as they were better suited to the cooler climate.

Today, all whites are vinified in stainless steel. Malo is blocked, and producers have the option of injecting CO2, to emulate antiquity. While done primarily for the commercial styles, the better versions eschew the bubbles, concentrating on aromatics and texture. Unfortunately, the reds, with the exception of a handful, still follow the old-school recipe. The real surprise are the rosés, which are all fruity and fresh.

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There are three levels of classification when it comes to green wine. The basic wines are labeled Vinho Verde. These are the classic/commercial blends, generally of Loureiro, Arinto and Trajadura, which can be sourced from anywhere within the VV region. Spritz is usually added, alcohol hovers around 8 per cent and the price is usually around $10.

A step up is Vinho Verde with a name of a sub-region appended. The green land is divided into nine sub-regions, each named after a river that runs through it. All the rivers except one are orientated east to west, receiving the Atlantic influence. Here we find single varietal wines as well as premium blends. Alcohols are elevated, as are the prices.

The pinnacle is Vinho Verde Alvarinho, which is the specialty of the sub-region of Monção and Melgaço. This sheltered area is the most northern and the warmest. Surrounded by mountains, its orientation is north/south, facing Spain and the wine region of Rías Baixas, famous for its fruity and crisp Albariños (same grape.) Needless to say, Alvarinho, which accounts for over 95 per cent of all plantings, produces the ripest, fruitiest and highest-alcohol wines of Verde, and for my taste, the best.

pairings

Of course, with the majority of the wines being white, and due to the region’s proximity to the ocean, these wines have a natural affinity toward seafood and shellfish. Personally, I think Alvarinho with ceviche and sushi is sublime. Other whites pair wonderfully with calamari and shellfish, notably oysters and clams — heaven.

Rosé Verde works well against slightly spicy Asian dishes. As for the red renditions, the acid and tannins make pairing with slowroasted suckling pig or baby lamb (read fatty goodness) the preferred choice. Of course, with Portugal being the salt-cod capital of the world, there are over 365 recipes (one for each day … shudders!) for preparing bacalhau. In this matter, all three colours come into play, depending on ingredients and preparations. •

Why

cellar? by crystal luxmore

I have a dirty little secret. For a woman who spends half of her life writing, researching and drinking beer, my “cellar” is a collection of fridges and cardboard boxes stashed in various corners of a sunny loft in downtown Toronto.

Right now I’m committing a handful of sins: In the wine fridge, I’ve laid my best bottles on their sides and then crammed in a few more on top by shoving them in the available gaps — at precarious angles to fill every single inch of space possible. I intend to age these bottles, anywhere from six months to 10 years (providing my willpower holds out that long).

The bulk of my beer is in my main fridge, a 1990s Maytag. The brews on the top shelf are designated “husband-allowed-to-drink-without-wife-having-seizure” bottles, while the other shelves are where “the work,” and more interesting lagers and ales, are kept.

Then there are the boxes — closed six-packs and two open-top wine boxes sit beside a long row of windows (yes, windows!). The bottles are rare, or otherwise deemed “good ones” by me, so why do I have them exposed to light, which causes beer to skunk? It started a few months ago when I began running out of room in the beer fridge, so I just stacked the bottles beside it — at first it was only a few, but now there are two dozen.

Living in a light-filled open-concept loft, with no basement or any naturally cold spots, I could hardly pick a worse home to start a beer collection.

My husband keeps saying that a lack of a proper beer cellar isn’t a good enough reason to sell the loft. So it’s high time I learned about what I can do to best preserve my precious brews, and to make sure I’m not laying down anything that could turn into swill with age.

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I called Erica Graholm, a brewer at Steam Whistle and an avid beer collector. Since she started home brewing 10 years ago, Graholm’s built up a collection of about 100 bottles at home, and stashes another 200 in her parents’ wine cellar.

finding beers that get better with age

The first problem I wanted to solve: Which beers in my collection could I just neck now, to gain some space, as they may not improve with age anyway?

The first rule when looking for beers to age is to look for beers with high alcohol — at least 8 per cent ABV, says Graholm, as the booze acts as a preservative. Basically any beer below this percentage is best drunk when fresh, within three months of brewing. Boozy barleywines, imperial stouts and Belgian strong ales can be cellared, as can anything marked vintage or reserve by the brewer — a sign that the beer is meant to be aged. Some craft brewers are even starting to give their beers the “vertical” stamp, indicating you can collect these each year.

Storing these styles of beer can help the high alcohol to be reabsorbed, so that you lose that boozy heat, and allow the biting hop edge noticeable in American barleywines to wane, bringing out deep red fruity notes, chocolate or other interesting malt characteristics. High-alcohol barrel-aged beers are also good candidates for aging as the woody notes soften with time.

mended to be aged for 20 years. Also look for beers made with Brettanomyces, a funky yeast that’s usually added near bottling and needs time to develop.

John Graham, owner and brew master of Church-Key Brewing outside of Campbellford, Ontario, says one of the best beers he’s ever enjoyed when aged is a Belgian brown sour Lactoose Falcon, which he brewed in the fall of 2007.

“We did a lactic souring in the mash tun, so when we released it, drinkers found harsh notes of Parmesan or dirty socks. There was a very sharp sourness to it. But as it aged, some chocolate came forward and the sourness went from Parmesan to sour black cherry as it reached the two- and threeyear marks,” says Graham.

“I think what happens is some of the lactic acid was reabsorbed somehow, so you’re tasting a different sour note.”

But still, within lambics, sours and high-alcohol, nonhoppy brews, there are potentially thousands of beers that could go into the cellar — with limited space, how do you choose the perfect one?

“I look at reviews of the beer to get an idea of what it tastes like now,” says Graholm. “The tasting notes will give you a good idea of whether it’s something you’ll want to drink now so certain flavours don’t dissipate, or [to] tuck away.

“Collecting is very personal — go for stuff that you like,” she says. “When I started aging beers I just went to the liquor store

Keep your beer in the dark — sun or light bulbs will react with the hops in beer and “skunk” it.

“I have a few different years of Fuller’s Vintage Ale,” says Graholm. “Every year I’ve enjoyed the vintages the most right around the three- to six-year mark because the bitterness subsides, the sweetness comes out and you get a more complex malt profile, but not too much of over-aged sherry character.

“Bitterness will dissipate over time, so if you buy a hopforward beer like an IPA you’ll want to drink this right away, no matter how high the alcohol, to get the fresh, hop bite,” says Graholm.

The other varieties of beer that can age well are those with low pH levels, as the high acid content in these brews — mostly sours and lambics — will protect them from spoiling, and the sour flavours will change in interesting ways over time. Cantillon, for example, which gets its barnyard character from wild yeasts in the Senne Valley, near Brussels, is a beer that is recom-

38 // November 2012

around Christmastime and bought six bottles of the same thing, and I tried one every year until it got to where I liked it.”

And when shopping in cities or countries where you’re unfamiliar with the beers, Graholm advises asking staff at good beer stores to help select cellar-worthy bottles.

After talking to Graholm, I went through my stock of “good beers,” in and around the wine fridge. I realized I’d been saving a lot of beer because it was hard for me to get in Ontario, not because it should be aged. So I transferred six bottles of Black Oak Brewery’s 10 Bitter Years (a double IPA) and a few hoppy Dieu du Ciel varieties from their box to the “drinking fridge,” as I wanted to taste the fresh-hopped character. A 5.5-per-cent bottle of Cannery Maple Stout, which I’d picked up last Christmas, and some lower alcohol wheat beers and pale ales I’d picked up in the US or Vancouver, also went to the “drink now” fridge.

“Collecting is very personal — go for stuff that you like,” Erica Graholm, brewer at steam whistle says. “When I started aging beers I just went to the liquor store around Christmastime and bought six bottles of the same thing, and I tried one every year until it got to where I liked it.” storing the beer

Beer storage boils down to three things, says Graholm: light, position and consistent temperature.

The light rule is simple. Keep your beer in the dark — sun or light bulbs will react with the hops in beer and “skunk” it.

For years, the beer world has debated over whether bottles are best when laid down or stood up.

These days, the debate seems to be over: aficionados keep their beer standing up for a couple of reasons. Beer kept on its side for too long can create a yeast ring that won’t settle, so when you finally crack that prized bottle, floaty bits will pour straight into the glass. As well, upright storage minimizes the amount of surface area that’s exposed, slowing oxidization, which can result in unsavoury wet cardboard or sherry notes.

Even corked beer, it’s argued, is best standing up because modern-day corks contain suberin (a waxy material that doesn’t let water in), they’re much less prone to shrinkage and the bottle is already humid inside, meaning that the cork shouldn’t dry out.

My wine fridge is the most consistently cool environment in the house, and that’s where I keep my big barleywines, quads and reserve ales — bottles I intend to open in three or more years.

But Graholm isn’t so sure this is the best idea. “It’s probably more important for bottles that you’re aging for a shorter term, say a few months to a year, to be aged cooler,” she says.

“These beers will likely have a bigger hop presence to them that you don’t want to lose, so I’d advise getting those beers into the fridge.”

And the experts agree — higher alcohol, higher-malt-profile beers like barleywines, quads and imperial porters and stouts can be stored at room temperature (55°F–60°F), so a cool, dark closet or cellar will do if you’re running out of room in the fridge. IPAs, doppelbocks, lambics and stouts are better at cellar temperatures (50°F–55°F) and lighter beers (pilsners, lagers, wheats) should be cooler (45°F–50°F).

“I keep the beers that I intend to age for at least three years or more in my parents’ wine cellar, which is cool in the winter but not that cool in summer. There’s a fairly consistent gradual rise in temperature, but I haven’t noticed any problems with that kind of aging.

“For more fragile beers, keeping them at a consistent temperature is more important than the exact storage temperature,” she says.

Armed with this new information, I moved my barleywines, St-Ambroise Russian Imperial Stouts, Rochefort 10s and Les Trois Mousquetaires Baltic Porters to the coolest, darkest space I could find in my loft: my closet. Then I removed two of the shelves from my wine fridge, making room for 20 bottles standing up but leaving five big bottles on their side on a top shelf.

Aside from a few lambics, which I intend to age for at least five years, the remaining bottles in the wine fridge will be aged for only one to two years maximum, and the beers I “laid down” I intend to drink within six months.

imbibing

The easiest way to discover how aging affects a beer is to buy at least two bottles — drink one soon after buying to see what it’s like.

I like to string a label around the bottle noting the date the beer was bought, along with brief tasting notes from the first bottle. For the more disciplined among us, note what year you think it’d be best to drink it in, and organize your collection by those dates. But a good rule of thumb is to cellar the other beer for at least a year.

Vertical tastings can also be highly instructive in discovering which years work best with certain styles of beer, not to mention a fun thing to geek out over with a few beer-loving friends.

And a final piece of advice from Graholm: “If in doubt, drink right away.” She says, “I’ve left a few beers too long, like some Belgians that were over-oxidized, and I grew to violently dislike that flavour.” •

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Think sushi is something in a plastic container that you snare at the supermarket, or maybe grab and gobble as a no-fuss lunch? by tod stewart

The Real Raw Deal If so, you might want to check out the movie Jiro Dreams of Sushi, as I recently did for “research” purposes. It details the life of Jiro Ono, a Tokyo-based sushi master whose 10-seat restaurant specializes in elaborate (and expensive) “sushi symphonies” that typically span 20 servings. And no, you won’t be given paperwrapped chopsticks that you have to break apart and the soy sauce doesn’t come in foil packets.

Be it a gustatory ritual or quick takeout, sushi is incredibly popular far from the shores of Japan, which is pretty interesting when you consider we are talking variations on raw fish as the main ingredient. (“I don’t eat bait” is the typical utterance of the sushi hater.) Admittedly, for some, there might be a squirm factor holding them back. Yet for the converted, sushi offers a complex range of flavours, textures and styles. And there’s another bonus that has no doubt contributed to its popularity.

“It’s healthy!” enthuses G.Q. Pan, executive chef of Blowfish, an upscale Japanese restaurant/lounge with two locations in Toronto. Indeed it is. About the only real carbo kick in a typical sushi meal comes from the vinegared white rice (shari) as the accompaniment (neta) is usually raw fish, which packs in a lot of protein and beneficial omega-3 fats but very little in terms of overall calories. In fact, Pan tells of one customer who dropped a significant amount of weight having upped the overall sushi quotient of his diet. If you opt for sashimi — essentially just the fish part of the rice-and-fish combo — the carb count drops to zero in most cases.

40 // November 2012

Pan reminds me a bit of Ono. Though younger and Chinese by descent, he bears the similar lean frame of someone who has resisted (in fact, probably never been tempted by) the lure of a deep-fried, carbo-centric North American diet. And like Ono, his ascent to sushi master was an arduous climb.

“In China I was a truck driver,” Pan reveals, adding that his introduction to the restaurant biz was as a dishwasher when he arrived in Canada in 1981. Finally settling in Toronto in 1985, Pan stayed in the food-service industry but found himself being drawn more and more into Japanese restaurants, impressed by both the skill level of the chefs and their strong work ethic. It was here that he had his aha moment.

getting fresh

“The first time I tried Japanese food I thought, ‘Wow,’” he recalls.

“Never in my life had I tasted something like it. From that first piece of raw fish I knew that making that type of food was the direction I had to follow.” And follow it he did, eventually right through the doors of Blowfish where he oversees the preparation and sources the freshest ingredients he can find. The restaurant typically places its fish orders three times per week. Pan says that even with careful attention to storage temperature and daily wrapping to preserve freshness, no piece of fish will be kept longer than three days. The keys to the best — and safest — sushi are extreme freshness of top-quality ingredients, operating-room cleanliness in the kitchen and the experience of the chef.

Most top sushi-masters have close working relationships with preferred vendors. And the vendors themselves naturally possess expert knowledge of what they are selling. In fact, the relationship between Ono and his vendors is so close that they wouldn’t think of selling to anyone but him. His rice purveyor won’t even sell to Tokyo’s top hotels unless Ono tells him to. And like Ono, they are specialists. The tuna guy does tuna and nothing else. Ditto for the octopus guy, the shrimp guy, the rice guy and the rest of his suppliers. Pan’s fish vendors present him with fresh, whole fish, which he personally inspects using his sense of sight, feel and smell. “The eyes should be bright, the scales intact,” he instructs. “The flesh should have the right texture when you press it and it should smell only of the ocean air. Never fishy.”

In other words, “sushi grade.”

Sushi grade is a common term in fish markets, though there is no actual grading standard as you might see for, say, beef. For Pan, sushi grade means fish taken from deep, cold salt water that is completely free of bacteria and parasites. The latter two nasties are what typically make people skittish about sushi. I won’t go into lurid detail about what these parasites do once they’re in your system, but if you’ve seen the movie Alien … which is why, Pan emphasizes, the chef must have the experience and skill to select the best raw ingredients and handle them properly.

a cut above

Sushi masters know tuna cannot be cut like halibut, which, in turn, can’t be sectioned like mackerel. Tuna, for example, can yield lean, medium or fatty pieces depending on where you cut.

“With tuna, the sections closest to the bone are the most tender.

Belly cuts are fattier. We use mostly back and stomach sections; the tail area isn’t as good.”

Once the proper piece has been selected, the sushi master’s years of prep training are brought to bear. It’s the textural element of sushi and sashimi that makes the stuff so sensual. Since each fish sports different combinations of lean and fat, specific slicing techniques are employed by the sushi chef to make each morsel a buttery, silky, palate-seducing affair.

“Cuts for sashimi must be done carefully and specifically for each fish type being used,” Pan explains, noting that an incorrect cut can yield slices that are tough rather than melt-in-yourmouth tender. And gnawing away on a chunk of sinewy seafood like a shark on a bather is not going to enhance the sensual experience (or your image) all that much.

The precision of the cut is something you really have to watch to appreciate, as is the actual fashioning of a classic piece

of sushi. Though the traditional and quite common nigiri sushi (or nigirizushi) looks like nothing more than a lump of prepared rice draped with a thin slice of fish, the actual forming is done using the palm and fingers in an orchestrated digital ballet. Ono and his apprentices make the motions look deceptively easy in Jiro Dreams (but with 10 years of training ...).

Hopefully by this point you are starting to get some sense of the complexity of sushi preparation and a few reasons why you’d leave doing so to a trusted master. However, people want to — and do — prepare sushi at home.

a risky recipe?

“I don’t think it’s a very good idea,” Pan answers when asked about the practice, “at least not using raw fish.” He advises sticking to preparations based on rice, vegetables, avocado, cooked shrimp, crab or scallop and to leave the raw fish stuff to the pros. The ingredients for homemade sushi (nori — the seaweed wrappers used for various types of makizushi or, simply, maki — and other components) can now be commonly found in most supermarkets.

Perhaps the only thing trickier than making sushi is eating it correctly. Sushi, for the most part, is a delicate dish with subtle flavours. Dousing a piece of nigiri in a bath of soy sauce and wasabi (the green horseradish authentically made from the root of the Wasabia japonica plant and not-so-authentically from a combo of horseradish, mustard powder and green dye) will only result in the rice disintegrating and the flavour of the fish obliterated by sinus-clearing wasabi heat and soy saltiness. Even trying to use chopsticks on nigiri isn’t recommended. Pick a piece up with your fingers, invert it and dip it lightly and quickly in the soy sauce. It’s the fish that you’re trying to season with the soy, not the rice. Add a small dab of wasabi if you prefer, but keep in mind that the piece served has usually been prepared by the chef with the proper amount of wasabi already added. Sashimi, on the other hand, should always be eaten with chopsticks. And the pickled ginger served alongside is meant to act as a palate cleanser between servings, not an add-on.

Finally, while sake might be the traditional choice to accompany sushi, aromatic white wines from Alsace and Germany, assertive Sauvignon Blancs and sparkling wines all make excellent partners.

Whether you attempt to make sushi at home yourself or leave it in the hands of the masters is ultimately your choice, but keep in mind these sage words from Ono: “In order to make delicious food, you must eat delicious food.” So get eatin’! •

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Sake. by brenda McMillan

Made in Japan, California, Oregon — and Toronto. I never thought much about sake until I had an opportunity to sample many at one time. My taste buds have not been the same — sake is alive with subtleties, layers and complexities.

Sake grades vary with the rice used. Futsu, cheap and cheerful table sake that makes up 80 per cent of Japan’s production, uses white table rice. Typically, it is served warm to smooth out any rough edges. All grades above this use rice that has been polished; the more polished the better as the shimpaku — the white starch heart — is the most prized part of the rice grain for sake production. So honjozo-grade rice is polished or milled to 70 per cent of its original size, and like futsu, has distilled alcohol added. Junmaigrade sakes are made without added alcohol, and the rice-milling rate is on the label, typically around 70 per cent. Ginjo (premium) is made from rice milled from 60 to 51 per cent of its original size and is fermented at colder temperatures. Expect it to be elegant and aromatic. Daiginjo (super-premium) uses rice milled to 50 per cent or less of its original size and is the ultimate in quality.

Like rice, water also factors into the quality of sake. Many Japanese producers guard (and brag about) the mountain springs that provide them with the soft water ideal for their product. Even Toronto’s sake brewery, Ontario Spring Water Sake Company, has its own coveted source for water — and it is not Lake Ontario.

Warm or cool? Sake temperature depends more on the season, the dish and the mood of the drinker than the sake. I suggest experimenting not only with Japanese food, but with seared rare beef, black cod, seafood and chicken dishes as well as cheese and salty snacks, as they all shine with sake. It is certainly worth putting heart and soul into.

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Kikusui Sake Co. Fountain of Youth Junmai Ginjo, Niigata, Japan ($12.75/300 ml) This sake with its perfumed, floral nose and clean softness on the palate is a perfect introduction to the elixir. If it lived up to its name, I’d drink it daily. Or hourly.

Momokawa Brewing Murai Family Tokubetsu Honjozo, Aomori, Japan ($14.95/300 ml) The alcohol added to this sake gives it pizzazz and makes it more fruity, flavourful and edgy. This style is more mosh-pit than nosh-hip. Pair it with takeout Japanese or Asian.

Toshimori Shuzo Sakehitosuji Jungin Black Junmai Ginjo 2008, Okayama, Japan ($34/720 ml) Lots of aromas of banana-nut loaf and flowers in this tasty, elegant sake. Very smooth and complex in the glass. Has lots of yum factor.

Yoshinogawa Daiginjo, Niigata, Japan ($100/720 ml) Amazing! As soft and smooth as a newborn’s cheek. Smells enticingly of pineapple and delivers subtle tropics. Drink with a lover.

Toshimori Shuzo Sakehitosuji Junmai 2005, Okayama, Japan ($25/300 ml) This smooth, aged Junmai has aromas of morels and earth. Match it to strong cheese and taste the magic.

Hakkaisan Sake Brewery Eight Peaks Junmai Ginjo, Niigata, Japan ($50/720 ml) This soft sake is made with some of the best water in Japan and rice-milled to 50 per cent. Crisp, dry and soft, with lovely clear pear notes that linger. A sipper with supper.

Asamai Shuzo Amanoto Umashine Tokubetsu Junmai, Akita, Japan ($55/720 ml) Umashine means “beautiful rice stalks,” which are locally grown and milled to 55 per cent. Light berry notes and an easy grace make it a pleasure to drink. This one is a ballerina in a tutu.

Gekkeikan Horin Junmai Daiginjo, California, US, and Kyoto, Japan ($17/300 ml) This delicate sake has a slightly yeasty nose and pear-melon flavours. Some sweetness.

Miyasaka Brewing Co. Masumi Kaden Tezukuri Ginjo, Nagano, Japan ($27/720 ml) Okunomatsu Junmai Daiginjo Sparkling, Fukushima, Japan ($16.95/290 ml) And you thought sake had no fizz! This sparkler, made in the traditional French way in Japan, is slightly cloudy with a very pale fresh green colour. Smooth, with hints of ripe banana and a long finish. Pull the cork with appetizers and take bets that none of your guests can guess its origin.

Daimon Shuzo Tozai Voices in the Mist Ginjo Nigori, Osaka, Japan ($27.95/720 ml) Nigori means unfiltered or lightly filtered, so nigori wines are cloudy or, like this one, a little misty. A blend of rices and yeasts produces melon, pineapple and mango notes and 14.9% alcohol.

Ontario Spring Water Sake Company Izumi Second Spring Junmai Nama Genshu, Toronto, Canada ($14.95/300 ml) Nama (unpasteurized) sakes like this one are youthful, lively and perky. They should be stored and served cold. A fruity nose leads to delicious pear flavours. Very impressive.

I liked this one because of its minerality and aromas of anise. I imagine it with a fennel salad and smack my lips.

Fukumitsuya Sake Brewery Kagatobi Gokkan Junmai, Ishikawa, Japan ($17/300 ml) This nutty, fruity sake is brewed in the coldest months of the year.

The result is a more obvious acidity and balance. It calls for fatty foods like black cod or tempura. And moderation.

Hakutsuru Sake Brewing Sho-une Junmai Daiginjo, Hyogo, Japan ($10/300 ml) Tropical fruit salad and an underlying earthiness meet you as you take a whiff. The sake is soft and smooth with a rich round mouthfeel, a mild acidity and a lingering earthiness. Bring on mushroom and vidalia soup with truffle oil and we have a match made in heaven.

Gekkeikan Zipang Junmai Sparkling, California, US, and Kyoto, Japan ($8/250 ml) This refreshing sparkler tastes like melons. Popcorn would be yummy with it, and 250 ml is purse-or-pocket-sized for moviegoers. I didn’t tell you. •

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by Duncan holmes

Until you’ve been there, you don’t really know what goes on behind those big, shiny television newsroom anchor desks, or in the on-camera studio kitchens where great and lesser chefs come in to strut their stuff. It’s only what’s up front that has to look good.

If it’s not going to show, it doesn’t really matter.

44 // November 2012

I haven’t specified how much seafood you’ll need. It really depends on your dinner. I was cooking for four judges, and I recall making eight bonbons, two each. Remember, it’s an appetizer. Lemons wedges for garnish and for squeezing would be nice.

Prawns (raw) Scallops Calamari Heavy cream (35% M.F.) Dry white wine

Butter, for brushing phyllo Phyllo pastry, thawed Fresh chives for tying ends (more to garnish) Parsley, to garnish

1. Place the seafood in a shallow pan with the white wine and cream.

I had an anchor friend who one night, just for fun, read the news in his undershorts. Impeccable from the waist up, and combed cotton boxers from the waist down. It all looked good, and only the camera crew knew for sure.

On one occasion, I cooked competitively on national television, and discovered, among other things on the set, that while water was ingeniously made to flow from a tap into a sink, pull the sink plug and the water would run unceremoniously into an out-of-view bucket.

I got the TV gig and learned this, and other production secrets, after answering an ad. The station was looking for people who aspired to be chefs to compete on television in a series of cook-offs for an ultimate prize of a trip to a cooking school in Tuscany. Certainly worth a try.

The premise was, in a kind of reality-TV, Iron Chef thing, that you had to cook a three-course meal in two hours. Menu choices were up to you, and an allowance was provided for your chosen ingredients.

Your masterpieces were to be presented to a panel of four judges. Warts and all, your kitchen prowess (or

Poach gently until the seafood is cooked and the sauce has reduced slightly.

Season with salt and pepper.

2. Melt the butter. Brush one sheet of phyllo with the butter, and top with a second sheet.

3. Place a tbsp of the seafood in the centre, then roll up the phyllo and tie the ends with chives to form a bonbon shape. Place on a baking sheet and brush all over with more melted butter.

4. Repeat with the remaining pastry and seafood.

5. Bake in a 400°F oven for 3 to 4 minutes or until the phyllo turns golden brown. Garnish with chopped chives and parsley.

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lack thereof ) would be filmed, and an edited version of the epic would end up as a half-hour show in the series. The winner would move on to the next round.

I made the cut to appear on the show.

A lot of recipes these days list how long it takes to prepare them, to help fit into our busy schedules.

Time would also be a factor for me, but the recipes would have to be amazing. So it was a bit of a challenge to figure a) how much or how little I should put together to impress the judges, and b) how to get it all done in two hours. Go big? Or go home?

In our own kitchens, we don’t use a stopwatch to track prep and cooking times. Most often, meals sort of come together, whether by experience or trial and error. Nobody films it, and the only judges are mostly forgiving friends and family.

(As an aside, my mother invariably got things more wrong than right when it came to timing. I recall one famous, semi-formal meal when she put the peas on to cook as we were all well into the pea-less main course. We politely waited until she marched in with the saucepan.)

Knowing that the TV audience would be glued to their sets from coast to coast to coast (the show was cancelled after one season), I figured that a house salad, sausages and mash, and strawberries and ice cream wouldn’t cut it. I went for recipes that I had done several times before — beyond ordinary, but slightly less than totally over the top. I can’t remember where the original recipes came from exactly, but each one was from my own collection, with my own touches added to them. The venture required a diverse shopping list that included such items as prawns, scallops, calamari, phyllo, rack of lamb, and Granny Smith apples. I had no idea what my competition was doing, but hoped it would be not much more than a salad, sausages, and strawberries and ice cream. How might I hex the cute cook?

Again, meal preparation is something that should be done not with a stopwatch and a cameraperson dipping and diving a foot from your face and hands, but in your own kitchen with grace. How does one actually handle phyllo on camera? Trim the silverskin from a rack of lamb? Make pastry under the glare of studio lights? Be comfortable with a completely foreign work area with a bucket under the sink — all the while eyeing that girl over there who appears to be doing much more than simple stupid?

Oh yes, and one more thing: a fast-talking host who is sharing his time between the two of you,

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shoving a mike in front of your sweaty face, asking why on earth you’re doing what you’re doing the way you’re doing it?

The dinner I put together for the show’s four judges was made using the recipes below, in retrospect a nice balance of tastes — and prepared and served in exactly two hours. The apple pie looked a bit strange, a patchwork of cobbled-together pastry blanketing the tart Grannies beneath. I blamed the hot lights. And in presentation, it could have used a dollop or three of ice cream, whipped cream, or (my favourite) crème fraîche. Oh well.

Amazingly I won my segment — only to be shot down in metaphorical flames in the next round. One more thing. Cleaning up, as the judges chowed down on my fare, the bucket under the sink overflowed. But as I said, what goes on in the back doesn’t matter. It just has to look good up front.

Serves 2

This is a dainty and very tasty dish to set before a judge. These small rounds of tender lamb can be enhanced by the addition of a seasonal vegetable or two on the plate. This serves four, but double everything if you have everyone over.

1 lemon 1 russet potato 350 g boneless, skinless rack of lamb (loin) 2 cloves garlic, finely minced 1 tbsp chopped rosemary (save tips for garnish) 1 tbsp minced shallots 1 egg white, lightly beaten Clarified butter, for sautéing

1. Squeeze a little lemon juice in bowl

of cold water. Peel and grate the potato and place it in water.

2. Trim the meat of all silverskin and fat. Cut into 6 noisettes. Season with salt and pepper.

3. In a hot pan over high heat, sauté the lamb for 30 to 40 seconds on each side. (The lamb will finish cooking in the last step.)

4. When you’re ready to cook, drain the grated potatoes and squeeze dry.

5. Mix the garlic, shallots and rosemary, and salt and pepper to taste. Dip

pastry

No matter how many years you keep making them, the apple pie that comes out of the oven is always a surprise, and almost always a nice surprise. Most times, I sprinkle the top with sugar, but I heard the judges say that they liked this just the way it was. What do they know? Best made without hot studio lights!

the noisettes of lamb into the slightly beaten egg white.

6. “Coat” the lamb with the potato mixture, mostly on the bottom. Heat a generous amount of clarified butter in a heavy skillet.

7. Carefully lift the potato-covered pieces of lamb into the hot pan. Sauté until potatoes are golden brown.

8. Remove from the pan and drain on paper towels. Serve immediately. …… Perhaps with a Peter Lehmann Clancy’s 2009 Shiraz/Cabernet/Merlot?

2 cups sifted all-purpose flour 2 tbsp grated cheddar cheese 1 tbsp sugar 1 cup lard 1 egg 1 tbsp vinegar 3 tbsp cold water

filling 8

¼ ¾ 2

¾ 1 1

½

tart apples cup butter cup sugar tbsp cornstarch tsp ground cinnamon tsp lemon zest tsp vanilla tsp salt

1. Make the pastry and line your pan.

2. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Peel, core and slice the apples and mix with the rest of the filling ingredients.

3. Fill the pie shell with the apple mixtures. Roll out the

second piece of dough, cover the apples and pinch the edges.

4. Bake the pie until it’s golden brown, about 45 minutes.

Serve warm or cold. Whipped cream, crème fraîche or ice cream are lovely options to top a slice! •

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Showdown by rosemary mantini

Family is a funny thing, isn’t it? You know what each person brings to the table. You know the way your brother elbows you with every mouthful of food, not because there isn’t enough room at the table, but because he holds his fork like a shovel. You know the way your father pushes his plate away from him when he’s done eating almost knocking over his glass in the process.

You know the way your mother shifts to the edge of her seat before taking her first sip of coffee. You’ve cooked, eaten and argued with these people your whole life. The table is at once a scene of comfort and strife. Take the simple potluck: you bring strawberry shortcake and cousin Sue brings panna cotta. A subtle rivalry emerges. You don’t mean for it to happen; but before you know it, there you are smack dab at the intersection of food, family and competition.

For my family and me, those three aspects of the old dynamics came to a head while we were watching an episode of the Food Network’s Iron Chef America. A shiny, white, gelatinous mound loomed large on the television screen. It jiggled on a plate as if thrilled to have garnered the highest score in kitchen stadium that day. One of the judges scooped a bit of it onto a small spoon, then slurped it into her mouth. I frowned. Marg, my sister, caught my reaction. “You could do better, I suppose?” she asked. My cousin Don waved his hand in the general direction of the TV. “Hey,” he said. “Maybe we can do our own Iron Chef competition.” My jaw dropped. “Don, that’s an awesome idea!” I told him. Liz, Don’s sister, sprang up from the couch. “I’ll get paper and pens so we can come up with the secret ingredients!” she called, racing down the hallway. We hammered out the details that night over a fast-depleting bottle of wine. Five of us — myself, Marg, Don, Liz and Joanne (another cousin) — would try to best each other in the ultimate cooking challenge.

Two weeks later, I found myself standing before the expansive wall of windows in Marg’s eighth-floor apartment looking down at the swirling waters of Lake Ontario. My name had been drawn last week for tonight’s challenge against Liz, which left Marg, Don and Joanne to judge our efforts. Shrimp was the

48 // November 2012

chosen secret ingredient. Would it prove to be my downfall?

I sure hoped not. Pure yet spectacular flavour was my goal. No foamed shellfish or chocolate-dipped shrimp for me. I wanted to appeal directly to the judges’ base instinct for comfort. I had tested and re-tested my dish three times over the last week, even pulling out my pencil crayons and sketching out the plate presentation. It felt so personal.

Six o’clock, time to start. I jogged over to the kitchen and laid my palms flat on the countertop as if that immovable structure could steady my nerves. The judges sat stone-faced. Don raised his arms above his head. “Allez Cuisine!” he called.

My fingers fumbled through the drawers searching for the can opener. Liz seemed to be having similar frustrations just a few feet behind me. The minutes ticked by at warp speed. I slid my ingredients into an ordered line with a flick of the wrist. Plastic containers scraping across the counter added an extra layer of sound to Dire Straits’ Sultans of Swing playing on the speakers. Liz must have found what she’d been looking for because the staccato beat of the knife hitting the cutting board echoed through the apartment. I stretched around her and grabbed the frying pan. The sound of sizzling shrimp soon filled the room.

That was punctuated by soft rapping on the front door. Aromas of cumin, mint, onions and garlic wafting through open windows and the spaces beneath the doors had attracted the neighbours.

Joanne acted the bouncer, sending them on their way with a few words. For 45 minutes, we measured out the space of the small kitchen with harried steps and quick hand movements. I was cooking fast. Yet the world seemed to have slowed its rotation.

Speed is paramount in the Iron Chef TV show. But, in our own pseudo–kitchen stadium and outside of it, a different reality takes hold. Life starts to shift a little, and the changes make themselves permanent. Now, we take more time at the market than we ever did before, inviting cooking tips from the butcher and fruit seller, and poring over ingredients we’ve never tried before. We’re explorers searching out something different that we can use. It’s our own Marco Polo spice adventure.

host your own

Setting up your own Iron Chef Challenge is a lot of fun and will really get your creative and competitive juices flowing.

Take some time to invent rules that everyone can agree to.

Here are the guidelines we used: »» Everyone should have a chance to battle everyone else in the first round. Winners move on to the next round. »» The final battle is the most difficult. Challengers must create three dishes. They can choose one sous-chef from among those who were eliminated in the earlier rounds. Other family and friends should be brought in to act as judges. »» Decide on a budget and on one or two places to shop for ingredients. »» Everyone should write two ingredient ideas on slips of paper. These are secret; so don’t share! Fold the slips of paper and place them in a jar. After each competition, one of the judges will pull out a slip of paper and hand it to the next pair of challengers. »» No one is allowed to consult any cookbooks at any time. »» Split the kitchen, stove and fridge in half (figuratively, of course). Challengers must use the plates and utensils provided by the host. »» The finished dishes are judged based on four categories (maximum 10 points each) — taste, texture, originality and presentation. »» Offer a prize, like a good-quality chef’s knife.

In the end, Liz’s sautéed shrimp and avocado sandwiched between two mini potato rösti and topped off with a dollop of crème fraîche fell to my appetizer of spinach soup with sautéed wild ocean shrimp and toasted coconut. I was off to the semifinals to challenge the winner of the next matchup. For someone who had a very picky palate, I was really surprised to see Liz imagine and execute such an elaborate dish. Like all families, we had grown accustomed to the way each of us approaches cooking. The chefs’ challenge broke through those layers of familiarity, testing and exploding our preconceived notions of each other.

The five of us continue to invest in the pleasure and camaraderie of cooking to this day. And sometimes we still argue.

chilled spinach soup with shrimp and toasted coconut Serves 4

You can serve this soup warm, and substitute broccoli for the spinach if you’d like. I use canned small wild ocean shrimp, sustainably caught off the coast of Oregon by Wild Planet. The shrimp has a wonderful, natural briny flavour.

2

tbsp olive oil (for the onions) cup chopped onion 2 cups spinach, rinsed well and finely chopped 1/2 cup chopped fresh basil, plus small basil leaves for garnish 1 cup chicken stock 1 3/4 cups coconut milk 1 can wild ocean shrimp (113 g) 1 tbsp olive oil (for the shrimp) 1/2 cup shredded unsweetened coconut Champagne flutes or martini glasses, to serve

1/4

1. Heat the 2 tbsp oil in a large skillet and sauté the onion

until soft. Add the spinach; cook for a few minutes until the leaves have wilted. Add the mixture to a blender along with the fresh basil.

2. Purée the spinach mixture, adding stock a little at a time until smooth. Blend in the coconut milk. Season with salt and pepper. Chill.

3. Sauté the shrimp quickly in 1 tbsp oil just until heated through.

4. Toast the coconut in a pan until golden brown. Watch the coconut carefully so that it doesn’t burn.

5. To assemble, pour the chilled spinach soup into the flutes or martini glasses. Carefully place a few shrimp on top of the soup. Add a pinch of toasted coconut. Garnish with basil leaves. …… Serve with a nice Viognier. •

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the mav notes\\ 92 Luce della Vite Luce 2008, Tuscany, Italy ($99.50) Dark ruby. Nose is discreet at this stage, mostly ripe black fruits; oak is present but not overdone or imposing.

Full-bodied, the middle palate fills the mouth with its finely grained tannins wrapped in generous fruity and oak extracts. It will improve over the next 10 to 12 years. (GBQc)

Kiuchi Brewery Hitachino Nest White Ale, Japan ($4.50) Light and fresh with aromas and flavours of coriander, citrus, banana and hints of ginger; fairly mellow with a clean finish. An easy quaffer. (GB)

Bernheim Original Kentucky Straight Wheat Whiskey, USA ($74.95) Hints of toasted grain, fresh biscuits, caramel and a hint of smoky vanilla from aging in charred oak barrels. Quite mellow on the palate with a brisk, dry overall character.

Some sweet grain and citrus-rind nuances as it trails off. (TS)

96 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon Special Select 2009, Napa, USA ($120)

Dark purple. The black fruits–dominated nose shows a great deal of depth; oak is very present but it remains under control for a fine balance with the fruit. In spite of its ripeness, it retains a nice freshness on the palate. The fine-grain, powdery tannins have just enough firmness through the opulent finish. This is an achievement combining finesse and generosity. A great wine. (GBQc)

88 Château St Jean Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, California, USA ($19.95)

Sound varietal Cabernet character with blackcurrant, blackberry, a touch of green herb, gentle tannins, food-friendly acidity, a splash of chocolate and light spiciness on the finish. Polished, middle-of-the-road style. (SW)

Zaya Gran Reserva 12 Year Old Rum, Trinidad ($78)

Rich mahogany colour with alluring, sweet aromas and flavours of caramel and vanilla with hints of cocoa, orange peel and banana. A luxurious, velvety mouthfeel, a long finish of more caramel and vanilla with no alcoholic burn. Ideal to heighten the experience of a good rum cocktail, as a partner with Fentiman’s Ginger Beer in a Dark & Stormy, or on its own with a good cigar in front of the fireplace. (GB)

93 Bachelder Chardonnay Wismer Vineyard 2010, Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario ($44.95)

Hot on the heels of his fabulous 2009 Chardonnays, Thomas Bacheleder has just released his even more impressive 2010s. This single-vineyard Chardonnay from Niagara’s benchlands offers up impressive complexity, concentration and length. Full-bodied; a perfume of white flowers, pineapple, cream, vanilla, anise, citrus and red apple echoes across the palate. The crisp acidity provides definition and food friendliness. Pair with butter-poached lobster or a washed rind cheese, à la Époisse. Drink from 2013 to 2018. (ES)

50 // November 2012

sugar-cane juice\\

Flavour can be defined as the distinctive taste of something. It tends to be subjective, but with practice you can learn its language — allowing you to compare your taste with that of others. The descriptors you use come out of your experiences, but their essence can be communicated in words.

Let’s start our flavour expedition with rum, a spirit distilled from sugar-cane juice or from molasses. It’s one of the most varied of all the distilled spirits with the widest variety of flavours. Because sugar cane grows in hot climates around the world, traditional variants are produced in the Caribbean Islands, South and North America, and Australia and the AsiaPacific islands. That said, rum can be distilled pretty much everywhere, from Cuba to Vietnam.

All rum is colourless when first distilled, and those that are aged for only a year are often artificially coloured with caramel.

Even the heavy-bodied ones, aged in charred oak casks for as long as 20 years, are sometimes subjected to artificial colouring.

Rum comes in three main styles: white, gold or aged and dark. It can also be flavoured by adding natural spices, coconut, vanilla, banana, pineapple, lemon-lime and orange to name but a few. Very light (silver) rums hail from Puerto Rico or the Virgin Islands. These require little aging and are relatively tasteless and odourless. Golden rum, also known as añejo, is still light-bodied but offers taste and pronounced character. Darker aromatic, full-bodied rums are produced in Jamaica. These are distilled by a slower and different fermentation process, which allows more time for a fuller, richer, molasses-like body to develop. In between are medium rums from Guyana, Barbados, Haiti and many other islands.

Some reliable brands to look out for: Appleton, Havana Club and Mount Gay. The following are good entry-levels, and then you can proceed up the ladder to their finest.

taste maker

by Sheila Swerling-Puritt

Havana Club 3 Años ($25) Pale straw colour with accents on the nose of vanilla, pears, bananas and caramel. After it rests for 3 years in white oak barrels, you pick up smoke, vanilla and some chocolate. It’s extremely smooth and is ideal for cocktails or over ice.

Appleton Estate V/X ($25) Dark golden copper in colour, it is a blend of 15 selected aged rums. It has an aroma of oranges, cinnamon, vanilla and molasses, with a lovely finish of citrus, honey and nut flavours.

Great for cocktails.

Mount Gay Eclipse Black, Barbados ($38) This new line extension is 100 proof. It has spicy notes of pepper, cinnamon and ginger. What is amazing about this rum is how smooth it is on the palate and how it lingers.

Strong and Stormy

2 oz of Mount Gay Eclipse Black Squeeze of fresh lime Ginger beer Mix the rum and lime. Top up with ginger beer (not ginger ale). •

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grape flows\\

It is the world’s most widely planted red grape varietal, and it’s not Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz ... it’s Grenache.

Prominent in Spain and the south of France, Grenache may not be as well known as Cabernet, but that is probably due to the fact that it is commonly not found on labels and it is often known by its various aliases.

Grenache may be best known as a major component in the wines of the southern Rhône Valley. Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Côtes du Rhône, Gigondas and the famous rosés of Tavel all benefit from Grenache’s elegance, spice and bright berry flavours. Even in the New World, it can be found blended with its traditional southern French partners, Syrah and Mourvèdre, but while the varietals may appear on the label of wines produced in the USA and Australia, they are often hidden behind the “GSM” moniker.

Grenache figures prominently in Sardinia, where it is known as Cannonau. But its home is Spain where it is referred to as Garnacha.

The versatility of Grenache may also be the reason for its relative low profile. It can range in style from light and fruity to bold, deep and intense. It can be found in soft, inexpensive quaffers as well as pricier wines suitable for long-term cellaring.

The grape tends to do well in warm regions as it is relatively late ripening. The south of France, Sardinia, Priorat and Barossa Valley all provide the perfect conditions for Grenache to perform at its best.

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davine

by gurvinder Bhatia

Its plantings in California are quite extensive, but it seems the Rhône Rangers (California producers who have focused on and raised the profile of southern French varietals grown in the sunshine state) have historically placed a greater importance on Syrah and Mourvèdre. The recent buzz among California wine professionals and journalists seems to be that California Grenache may be ready to take a leading role as opposed to its traditional supporting position.

There is no question that wine consumers have enjoyed Grenache for years, whether they have known it or not. Maybe it’s finally time this widely planted varietal gets the attention it deserves.

Stags’ Leap Rosé Amparo 2011, Napa, California ($32)

Fresh aromas and flavours of cherries and strawberries; a mouth-filling texture and wonderful underlying structure, bright acidity and a dry but approachable finish. Great balance, which makes it extremely delicious on its own, but really stands out when paired with everything from Asian cuisine to roast lamb to salmon and shellfish.

Cameron Hughes Syrah/Grenache/ Mourvèdre ‘Lot 241’ 2009, Arroyo Seco, California ($28)

Approachable yet chewy, with loads of black cherry, blackberry and black pepper and hints of plum and blackberry. Full but elegant tannins with a long finish.

Santa Maria La Palma Cannonau ‘Le Bombarde’ 2010, Sardinia, Italy ($17.99)

Truly one of the world’s great wine values. Bright aromas of cherry, Christmas spice, liquorice and tobacco with penetrating flavours of cherries and spice. Elegant, with great acidity and a deceiving backbone, allowing the wine to pair with pretty much anything. Not heavy, but with loads of flavour. Versatile and full of character. Buy it by the case!

Domaine de la Mordorée Tavel Rosé 2011, Rhône Valley, France ($32)

Powerful and focused with lots of red cherry, raspberry and redcurrant flavours and hints of spice and tobacco. A nice mineral quality adds a refreshing quality, even though the finish is dry and structured. Not your teenager’s pink wine. A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Clairette.

Jean-Paul Autard

Artazuri Santa Cruz de Artazu Garnacha 2007, Navarra, Spain ($58)

Intense aromas and flavours of dark raspberry, cocoa, fig and toasted exotic spices with chewy tannins, a velvety texture and a lasting finish. Well integrated and nice balance with a modern touch.

Navarro Lopez Granrojo Garnacha Rojo 2011, Castilla, Spain ($16.99)

This silky wine offers ripe, juicy flavours of black cherry, blackberry and plum, complemented by accents of toast, mineral, herbs and spice. Good density, yet remains lively through the toasty, balanced and vibrant finish.

Domaine Paul Autard Côtes du Rhône 2010, Rhône Valley, France ($21.99)

Fresh with lively plum, fig and liquorice notes that open considerably as they sit in the glass. Backed by sweet spice, tobacco, roasted wood and gamey notes on the edgy finish.

Needs cassoulet and charcuterie. A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault.

Grant Burge Grenache/Shiraz/ Mourvèdre ‘The Holy Trinity’ 2009, Barossa, Australia ($45)

Rich and elegant, with aromas and flavours of cherry, blueberry, spice and a touch of earthiness. Complex and nicely rounded, with soft tannins and a pretty finish. •

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//the food notes 90 Coyote’s Run Pinot Noir Black Paw Vineyard 2010, Four Mile Creek, Ontario ($35.95) 92 JoieFarm Reserve Gewürztraminer 2010, Okanagan ($28)

Inspired by the rich Grand Cru Gewürztraminers of Alsace, their first 100% Naramata Bench estate–grown Gewürztraminer delivers a knockout punch. Complex, classic varietal aromas and medium-sweet flavours of fragrant rose and spicy lychee. Satisfies with an astonishing rich texture and satisfying long finish. Pure unapologetic pleasure with a cheese platter. (HH)

Of Coyote’s 2 single-vineyard Pinot Noirs, this has always been my favourite. Having benefited from the heat of 2010, there is more ripeness and depth than past vintages. Medium- to full-bodied, the bouquet of cherries, raspberries, plums, anise, cocoa, flowers and mint lead into a palate best described as an “iron hand in a velvet glove.” It starts off soft and fruit-driven, but then the tannins show full force on the finale. This is definitely a wine made for duck confit or boeuf bourguignon. (ES)

89 Taylor Fladgate Late Bottled Vintage Porto 2007, Portugal ($25)

LBV Port is bottled later than vintage Port and is aged in wood up to 6 years. It is ready to drink when bottled and does not improve in the cellar. This LBV is heady stuff with a nose of maraschino cherry, plums, dried currants, roasted almonds and liquorice. It has weight and heat on the palate but delivers a wonderful array of jammy fruits, sweet spices and liquorice.

Pair with traditional full-flavoured cheeses and nuts, intense desserts or on its own at the end of a meal. (RV)

91 Domaine Séguinot-Bordet Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir 2009, Burgundy, France ($40)

This wine spent 12 months in older oak barrels and 6 months in stainless steel. It smells of white flowers, gunflint, citrus and honeysuckle. It is opulent rather than racy, with some tropical fruit notes to go with ginger and honeysuckle in a juicy style.

Pairs well with swordfish fillets marinated in lime juice or seared foie gras. (RV)

92 Karl Erbes Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese 2008, Central Mosel, Germany ($14.83)

Polished pale-pastel yellow with hints of green. A distinct “petrol” smell overlays the pretty fruit-salad aromas like an industrial haze over the lush Mosel Valley. The full body and long finish contradict the pale colour, and your mouth fills with tangerine, baked peaches and apricots. Sturdy with smoked ham, and ethereal with apple pie and melted Gorgonzola. Such value. (RL)

87 House Wine Co. Vidal Moscato 2011, Ontario ($13) This unique blend of Vidal and Moscato fuses freshness, acidity and an off-dry personality. Combined with the low alcohol and a profile of white flowers, peach, pear, honey, lime and spice, it makes for an enjoyable aperitif wine or a foil for spicy fare. (ES)

54 // November 2012

88 Averill Creek Cowichan Black 2010, Cowichan Valley, BC ($18/375 ml) Fermented blackberries (100%) and fortified alcohol (to 18%) result in an intensely satisfying dessert wine.

Explosive blackberry aromas and flavours embrace its spicy richness and well-balanced sweetness (60 g/L). What a wonderful accompaniment to chocolate, blue cheese or vanilla ice cream. (HH)

bouquet garni

the dog whisperer\\

I am the sort who wants what she wants when she wants it. Not spoiled, mind you, just determined. Well, maybe a little spoiled. Or possibly a lot. Still, when I set my cap on acquiring something, nothing and no one can stop me from my mission.

That is, nothing and no one but my little sister Marian.

So when I decide it’s time to adopt a dog because I am convinced I would make a fabulous pet parent, sensible Marian jumps in with an intervention: she forces me to dogsit Chloe and Riley.

Chloe and Riley are designer dogs, a euphemism for mutts.

Chloe is a silky, long-haired Shih-Tzu/Yorkie who fancies herself as human. Riley is a lithe and lean Maltese/Yorkie who looks like the cutest Pixar character ever invented. They are hoodlums, and they are mine for the weekend.

We begin with a romp outdoors. Riley leaps and prances like a gazelle. Chloe, on the other hand, lumbers along like a woolly mammoth, the freshly mown grass being too tall for her impossibly short legs. My pet-parent angst kicks in full throttle. I am certain Chloe will disappear into a sinkhole. I am sure Riley will jump the fence, or at the very least, dig her way out of prison. Instead, they both roll around in mulch, or something that looks like mulch, although I don’t really want to know what it is they roll around in. I am horrified that I have to remove whatever it is from their coats.

Indoors, they follow me everywhere. When I disappear into the bathroom, they hang around in the hallway, like rabid fans at the backstage door after a rock concert. They eat anything and everything, a disconcerting habit that I am sure will lead to choking. They squabble over toys and their tongues hang out all the time, which I think is rude. And they whine like two-year-olds at the Walmart checkout. They whine for the great outdoors, they whine to come back in. They whine at other dogs 10 blocks away. They whine if a squirrel is within

by nancy Johnson

city limits. The only time they don’t whine is when some random guy bangs on the door to sell me something. Then they yelp in high alert. When I raise my voice in consternation, one of them yips a full sentence at me, which sounds suspiciously like “You are not my mother!”

At night, Chloe snuggles against my back and Riley plunks down on my feet. I kind of enjoy the security of their weight, until they launch Smackdown Wrestlemania on the bed at three in the morning. When I break up the fight, Riley, a rescue with post-traumatic stress disorder, runs off to hide.

In fact, she has an annoying habit of hiding, and I am certain I will eventually sit on her or vacuum her up. I spend a lot of the weekend crawling around on the floor trying to lure Riley from small spaces with a vegan biscuit shaped like a gingerbread girl in a bikini, Chloe snuffling beside me. When I find Riley, she acts like a dowager duchess whose tea time has been disrupted. She gives me a haughty “hmfff” before marching off to another hiding place. Meanwhile, my allergic beau Ron cautiously stops by for a visit, inhaler in hand. By the time he leaves, his right eye is swollen shut.

When I give Chloe and Riley back to my sister after two anxious days, I am not sure if I have eaten, showered or even brushed my teeth. My hair is seriously tweaked and there are smudges on my face that neither my sister nor I can identify. I spend the next several hours checking my person for fleas and tick bites.

And here is the truth: I am a writer, a drama queen, a fashionista, a cook. I am so happy to be back in my own kitchen, far from those little wet noses bumping my calves, that I spend the rest of the day cooking. But I can’t shake the feeling that has grown stronger since Marian’s intervention: OMG, I am a fabulous pet parent!

The following recipes are ridiculously easy to prepare, whether you’re pet-sitting or not.

+ Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on tidingsmag.com

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chicken with balsamic cream sauce serves 4

chèvre, garlic and sun-dried tomato pizza serves 4 to 6

Most supermarkets now carry exquisite, creamy goat’smilk cheeses, which are wonderful as an appetizer paired with hot pepper jelly and a baguette. But when you’d like to try your hand at something a bit more substantial, try this pizza.

This is my attempt to recreate the wonderful dish made at Kelsey’s in Toronto. Kelsey’s usually serves it with mashed potatoes and a side of sautéed vegetables, and I love when they include red bell–pepper strips in that mélange. There are hundreds of balsamic vinegars available at a dizzying array of price points, but unless the label says “tradizionale” don’t bother paying top dollar for it. The supermarket variety is fine; just make sure the vinegar was made in Modena, Italy.

1 head garlic, broken into cloves and peeled 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Purchased pizza crust 1 1/2 cups chèvre or other goat’s-milk cheese 1 small jar sun-dried tomatoes in oil, drained (reserve oil) and chopped 2 cups shredded mozzarella cheese 1/4 cup minced parsley

boneless chicken breast fillets tbsp butter tbsp extra virgin olive oil shallots, minced cloves garlic, minced 1/2 tsp dried thyme leaves 2 tbsp flour 1 1/2 cup chicken broth 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar 1 cup heavy cream

1. Preheat oven to 300˚F. 2. In a small bowl, toss garlic cloves with olive oil.

1. Preheat oven to 325˚F. 2. Season chicken with salt and pepper. In large skillet, melt

Spread on a baking sheet. Cover with foil and roast 30 minutes or until softened and golden. Chop.

3. Now preheat oven to 500˚F. 4. Brush pizza crust with oil from tomatoes.

Spread with chèvre. Sprinkle with roasted garlic, sun-dried tomatoes, mozzarella and parsley.

5. Bake in 500˚F oven for about 10 minutes or until cheeses are melted. …… Excellent with a Sangiovese.

56 // November 2012

4 2 2 4 2

butter with olive oil. Sauté chicken on both sides until golden.

Transfer chicken to the oven.

3. Meanwhile, add shallots, garlic and thyme to pan drippings in skillet. Sauté until shallots and garlic are softened. Sprinkle flour over vegetables. Cook 1 minute.

4. Whisk in chicken broth. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly until thickened. Add vinegar. Cook 2 minutes. Stir in cream and heat through gently. Serve over chicken. …… Try a Viognier with this dish.

salmon, potato and corn chowder serves 4

My friend JoAnn made a version of this chowder at the last Tribal Elders’ gathering. The Tribal Elders are my extremely special posse of BFFs. They are a group of 5 fascinating women whom I have known for nearly 35 years. We get together about 8 times a year and our parties are always both hilarious and soul-nourishing all at the same time. When the Elders gather, there is lots of food and drink, as well as laughter, learning and love.

2 1 1 2 2 1/2 4 2 2 1

tbsp butter small onion, chopped cup fresh, frozen or canned corn tbsp flour cups chicken or vegetable broth new potatoes, diced salmon fillets, chopped cups light cream or half-and-half tbsp fresh dill, snipped

1. In a Dutch oven, melt the butter. Sauté the onion until

softened. Add the corn and sauté 2 more minutes. Sprinkle flour over the vegetables.

2. Stir in broth. Add potatoes. Bring to a boil.

3. Reduce heat and cover, cooking over low heat until potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Add the salmon.

4. Cook about 5 minutes or until salmon is cooked through. Stir in cream, salt and pepper. Heat through. Garnish soup with dill. …… Delicious with a Beaujolais.

simple shrimp curry serves 4

This is a great way to stretch one beef tenderloin steak, although it can also be made with sweet or hot Italian sausage. I recommend San Marzano tomatoes because they have the best flavour and match nicely with the tender beef. Use scissors to chop the tomatoes right in the can.

How easy is this? Just a few ingredients from the freezer and pantry and you’re in Thailand. I like to use the largest shrimp I can find for this dish. You can easily change this recipe by substituting green or yellow curry paste in place of the red. Add steamed snow peas or broccoli for a bit of healthful greenery. It’s always best to give coconut milk a good shake before opening the can.

4 tbsp butter 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, divided 4 garlic cloves, minced 1 large can San Marzano tomatoes, chopped 1 cup Chianti 1 beef tenderloin steak (filet mignon) 1 box rigatoni, cooked Parmigiana-Reggiano, grated

1 lb large shrimp (14-16 count), peeled and deveined 1 tsp red curry paste 1 can coconut milk 1 can pineapple chunks (drain and reserve 1 cup of juice) Jasmine rice, cooked 2 tbsp cilantro, minced

1. In a large skillet, melt butter with 1 tbsp olive oil. Sauté the

1. In a large skillet, stir-fry shrimp with curry

rigatoni with beef tenderloin serves 3 to 4

garlic until light golden.

2. Add the tomatoes with their juice, salt and pepper. Stir in the wine. Cook over medium-high heat about 15 minutes. Add more wine if needed.

3. In a separate skillet, sauté beef in the remaining olive oil over high heat. Stir the beef into the sauce along with the pan juices.

4. Serve over rigatoni, garnished with cheese. …… Chianti is the perfect match.

paste 4 minutes or until shrimp are pink and cooked through. Remove shrimp from skillet.

2. Add coconut milk and reserved pineapple juice to skillet. Bring to a boil. Simmer, uncovered 5 minutes or until reduced to about 1 cup.

3. Add pineapple and cooked shrimp. Heat through. Serve over rice, garnished with cilantro. …… Try a Riesling with this spicy dish. •

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Tidings uses the 100-point scale 95-100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

90-94. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

85-89 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80-84. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

75-79. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70 & under. . . . . . . . . . .

exceptional excellent

very good good acceptable

below average

Our Scoring

System

* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . available through

wine clubs green. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . white & rosé wines red. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . red wines

the commentaries in order to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board, or its website, for availability.

Our tasters are Tony Aspler (ON), Sean Wood (NS, NB), Gilles Bois (QC), Evan Saviolidis (ON), Harry Hertscheg (BC), Gurvinder Bhatia (AB), Rick VanSickle (ON), Ron Liteplo (AB), Tod Stewart (ON) and Jonathan Smithe (MB).

Argentina // p. 58; Australia // p. 58; Canada // p. 58-61; Chile // p. 61; France // p. 61-63; germany // p. 63;

Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category.

Readers should open their palates to compare the relationship between quality and price. We’d also ask you to carefully study

italy // p. 63; new zealand // p. 63; portugal // p. 63; South Africa // p. 63-64; Spain // p. 64;

the notes\\ /ARGENTINA /

89 Michel Torino Don David Finca La Primavera No. 3 Torrontes 2011, Cafayate Valley ($16.95)

Torrontes is an Argentinean white grape that tastes rather like a dry Muscat. Bright straw in colour with a bouquet of orange blossom, grapefruit and cardamom. It’s crisply dry, with orange and peach flavours and great length. (TA)

/AUSTRALIA / 86 Banrock Station Pink Moscato 2011, South Australia ($11)

The world is craving Moscato

58 // November 2012

these days and, while this may not be a serious wine-lover’s cup of tea, it will appeal to the masses. It’s over-the-top sweet but backed up by intense pink grapefruit, tangerine, lime juice, tropical fruits and citrus spritz on the nose and following to the palate. It’s sweet, no doubt, but with only 5.5% alcohol, you can safely sip to your heart’s content. (RV)

86 Outback Wine House Cabernet Sauvignon/ Shiraz NV, Southeastern Australia ($11.99) Enticingly scented: piquant currant and red berry with a pinch of spice; both blackcurrant and blackberry expres-

United States // p. 64-65; spirits // p. 65; beer // p. 65

sion on the palate. Good acidity and lightly firm tannins, finishing with a splash of milk chocolate and a pinch of spice. (SW)

and cream meshes with apple/pear purée and pineapple. The mouth is creamy and round with excellent length and a long, smoky aftertaste. (ES)

/CANADA /

91 Bachelder Chardonnay Saunders Vineyard 2010, Beamsville Bench, Ontario ($44.95)

92 Tawse Robyn’s Block Chardonnay 2010, Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario ($45.95)

This has always been my favourite Chardonnay from Tawse. The 2010 vintage, with all its heat, has produced a fuller and rounder wine than recent vintages. Medium- to full-bodied, it is the oak which dominates at this early stage: vanilla, smoke, caramel, spice

Bachelder’s other single-vineyard Chardonnay from Niagara is a slightly more restrained version. The medium straw colour segues into a bouquet of smoke, toast, cream, apple and pear. The palate features much of the same, as well as a spicy finale and refreshing acidity. Drink between 2013 and 2017. (ES)

\

90 Quails’ Gate Chardonnay 2010, Okanagan ($21.95)

This is a full-throttle Chardonnay from the Okanagan. Straw-coloured with a smoky, toasty nose of citrus with barnyard notes; full-bodied, dry and elegant with rich apple and green pineapple flavours supported by toasty oak. Try with butter chicken. (TA)

89 Avondale Sky Summerville l’Acadie Blanc 2011, South Shore, Nova Scotia ($19)

This fine l’Acadie offers excellent aromatic character redolent with grapefruit, peach, green apple and green herbal notes. Bright green fruit flavours are rounded out with a distinctive squeeze of lime, slatey mineral and signature crisp acidity. A wonder with a lobster thermador or a seafood chowder. (SW)

89 Rafter F Chardonnay 2011, Okanagan ($21)

These ranchers-turned-vintners are in good hands with vineyard manager Richard Cleave (of Burrowing Owl fame) and winemaker Michael Bartier (Okanagan Crush Pad). Fresh, clean lemon and apple aromas.

Elegant and well-balanced with mid-palate heft.

Complex finish brings out chalk, mineral and lemon zest. Sublime with grilled salmon fillets. (HH)

89 Tawse Quarry Road Riesling 2011, Vinemount Ridge, Ontario ($23.95)

The Vinemount Ridge appellation is quickly becoming the new “sweet spot” for Riesling production on the Bench. Medium-bodied, this wine is still reserved. That being said, there is lime, mineral, green apple and peach on the nose and palate.

There is some residual sugar, but the perception is that of a dry wine, due to the crisp acidity. Drink over the next 5 years. (ES)

89 JoieFarm Reserve Chardonnay 2010, Okanagan ($30)

Inspired by Burgundy, yet features Naramata Bench and Okanagan Falls grapes, and accordingly treated to barrel fermentation and lees contact.

Embrace its effusive spice, pineapple and vanilla aromas.

Enjoy tangy Meyer lemon and tangerine flavours, enhanced by a toasty hazelnut finish.

Bacon dishes beckon. (HH)

88 Avondale Sky Lavender Leon Millot Rosé 2011, South Shore, Nova Scotia ($16)

Light salmon-pink in colour, with red berry scents that reveal strawberry, cherry and a suggestion of raspberry. Elegantly dry on the palate, showing attractive berry fruit, a solid mineral core and appetizingly zesty acidity. (SW)

88 Stoney Ridge Kasper Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Niagara ($16.95)

This wine captures the essential character of Sauvignon. Pale straw colour with a lime tint; grassy, green-plum nose; medium-bodied and crisply dry with grapefruit and gooseberry flavours. (TA)

88 Rafter F Pinot Gris 2011, Okanagan ($21)

The Fredings’ inaugural vintage is from their Black Sage Road’s sun-drenched Saddle Ridge Vineyard. Ripe orchard fruits abound, enhanced by clementine orange, passion fruit and a steely mineral finish. No oak treatment, but lees contact enriches. Modest 11.5% abv embraces spicy Asian cuisine. (HH)

87 Jackson-Triggs Chardonnay Black Label Reserve 2011, Niagara ($11.95)

An impressive Chardonnay for the price. Medium straw colour; spicy apple nose with a hint of vanilla oak; mediumbodied, soft and creamy on the palate with sweetness in mid palate and a peachy flavour. Good value. (TA)

87 Lakeview Cellars Riesling Reserve Roller Vineyards 2011, Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario ($16.95)

The inaugural vintage of the Roller Riesling is well made

and refreshing. Light- to medium-bodied, there is green apple, grapefruit, mineral, peach, white flowers and hints of honey.

There is very good length, so pair with chicken shawarma or fish tacos. (ES)

87 Harper’s Trail Rosé 2011, Kamloops, BC ($17) This Gamay Noir/Pinot Noir/ Merlot blend bespeaks how cool-climate regions — of which Canada has many — can spearhead high-quality dry rosé. Pale copper-tinged salmon colour. Savoury, fresh strawberry-rhubarb-pie nose.

Abundant red fruit flavours: strawberry, cherry, red apple.

Liquorice lingers. Charcuterie-friendly. (HH)

87 Avondale Sky Select Small Lots Dry Geisenheim 2010, Estate Grown, Avondale Peninsula, Nova Scotia ($18/500 ml)

Fewer than 20 cases of this intensely characterful wine were produced. Nose shows musky, herbal and green-fruit notes with lime citrus and mineral. Lime continues to play through on the palate with a suggestion of apricot and chalky minerality. Floral and stone-fruit notes linger on the finish. (SW)

87 Averill Creek Pinot Gris 2009, Cowichan Valley, BC ($20) The relatively long 2009 growing season produced

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//the notes ripe fruit flavours of apple, pear, peach, melon and papaya. French oak barrel fermentation brought out toasted almond aromas, spicy flavours and a long, complex finish. Lees stirring and aging generate a rich mouthfeel. Pair with cedar plank salmon. (HH)

87 Harper’s Trail Riesling 2011, Kamloops, BC ($20)

The sage- and grass-laden banks of the South Thompson River suit this cool-climate grape. The fragrant nose wafts honeysuckle, lemon-lime and white peach.

Delightful balance of citrusy acidity, ripe orchard fruits and off-dry sweetness, finishing with ripe red apple. Made me crave chili-spiced squid. (HH)

86 Harper’s Trail Field Blend White 2011, Kamloops, BC ($17)

The inaugural vintage of Kamloops’s first estate winery features a quaffable blend of citrusy Chardonnay, spicy Gewürztraminer, pear-toned Pinot Gris and herbal Sauvignon Blanc. Perky aromas, tangy flavours, bracing acidity, dry style and modest 10.5% alcohol pairs well with a garden salad. (HH)

90 Coyote’s Run Cabernet Franc Black Paw Vineyard 2010, Four Mile Creek, Ontario ($24.95) Here is yet another impressive

60 // November 2012

bottling from Coyote’s 2010 red lineup. Boysenberry, plum, cassis, vanilla, mocha and roasted herbs are built on a solid backbone of tannins.

Combined with excellent length, it will age well for the next 5 to 7 years. (ES)

you will, a textbook nose of Merlot. There is some serious tannic structure lurking beneath, making for a strong case for a pairing with braised lamb shanks or dry-rubbed, slowsmoked ribs. (ES)

89 Lakeview Cellars Reserve Syrah 2007, Ontario ($19.95)

89 JoieFarm Reserve Pinot Noir 2010, Okanagan ($40)

2007 was an amazingly warm summer in Ontario. On the nose, the wine is savoury, herbal, blackberry and vanilla oak; it offers richly extracted blackberry and dark chocolate flavours on the midweight palate with a lively acidic spine. (TA)

89 JoieFarm PTG 2010, Okanagan ($24)

This Burgundy/Beaujolais– inspired “Passe-Tout-Grains” comprises Pinot Noir (48%) and Gamay (52%) from the Naramata Bench.

Fragrant aromas of fresh sage and wild red berries yield juicy flavours of black cherry and savoury meatiness.

Rustic finish highlights dried herbs, peppery cola and liquorice. Bring on the mixed grill of wild game sausages. (HH)

89 Coyote’s Run Merlot Red Paw Vineyard 2010, Four Mile Creek, Ontario ($24.95)

The dark cherry colour leads into a cornucopia of plum, raspberry, cherry, vanilla, cinnamon and cocoa, or, if

This cool vintage brings out freshness, juicy acidity and red fruit character. The 10-month barriques aging infuses spicy warmth and a fine tannic structure.

Enjoy fragrant aromas and bright flavours of cherry, plum, sassafras and toasty spice. It’s well balanced with a long mineral-driven finish. Classic choice with duck. (HH)

88 Coyote’s Run Pinot Noir Red Paw Vineyard 2010, Four Mile Creek, Ontario ($24.95)

This Pinot is more Beaune in style, due to the softer style and red berry-fruit qualities: cherries and raspberries.

Add the flowers, cocoa, plums, very good length and supple tannins, and what you have is a real flatterer of a wine. (ES)

88 Avondale Sky Red Head Reserve Leon Millot 2010, Estate Grown, Avondale Peninsula, Nova Scotia ($25)

Aged 10 months in Canadian and American oak, this one

shows developed cherry fruit with fine cinnamon and clove on the nose. The pure cherry theme continues to play in the mouth with dry tannins and a splash of chocolate on the very dry finish. Better with 3 to 5 years’ additional cellaring.

Great on its own or accompanied by a perfectly prepared rib eye. (SW)

87 Averill Creek Pinot Noir 2009, Cowichan Valley, BC ($26)

Fresh, juicy and bright characteristics throughout reflect the style for this region. Fragrant scents of fresh herbs, violets, wild raspberry and black cherries.

The light-bodied palate accentuates flavours of tangy strawberry and tart cherry, but finishes with lingering pepper. Superb with smoked salmon. (HH)

87 Averill Creek Foch/Cab Reserve 2009, Cowichan Valley, BC ($38)

Select Marechal Foch (66%) and Foch/Cab Sauv (34%) were blended together in this warm vintage year.

Scents of raspberry bush and wildfire smokiness bolt from the glass. Intense flavours ensue: blueberry pie, plum pudding, chocolate cake and Christmas spices. Finishes with clove, pepper and cedar. Hearty stew please or nice sticky beef ribs. (HH)

85 Averill Creek Prevost 2009, Cowichan Valley, BC ($16)

The estate fruit yields a Marechal Foch–dominant blend with splashes of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Blueberry predominates, accompanied by notes of blackcurrant and plum. The juicy palate enlivens the soft texture and gives way to a peppery finish.

Stands up to barbecued pork back ribs. (HH)

84 Averill Creek Foch/ Cab 2010, Cowichan Valley, BC ($18)

Opens with a waft of smoky mesquite, cedar and roasted coffee-bean aromas. Wild blueberry and raspberry flavours take charge, along with lingering chocolate cherry. The characteristic “foxy” note of hybrid grapes peeks through, so go crazy with marinating your grilled meat. (HH)

/CHILE / 91 Cornellana Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Cachapoal ($8.25)

Glossy silvery-yellow.

Appealing nose of tropical fruit and citrus with a bit of spice; more elegant than the New Zealand versions. On the palate it is surprisingly full-bodied, and presents gooseberries floating in a lemon bath, with all the tingling acidity that implies.

High value. (RL)*

/FRANCE / 93 Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 1999, Champagne ($199) Pale gold. Expressive nose of yeast, dried fruits, a touch of rancio; complex and elegant. Very fresh attack, cutting acidity; lots of finesse and intensely flavourful at the same time; impressive presence in the mouth. An excellent Champagne. (GBQc)

91 Alex Gambal Chassagne-Montrachet 2009, Burgundy ($65)

The nose is open and inviting, with lemon-citrus and stone fruit mingling with wet stone minerality. It’s focused on the palate with a heady mix of fruit and minerals in a taut style that’s buoyed by racy acidity. Put away in the cellar for 5 years. (RV)

90 André Blanck Altenbourg Gewürztraminer 2011, Alsace ($17.95)

Gather ’round, Gewürz lovers: this wine’s for you. On the nose it’s all rose petal, honey and grapefruit; full-bodied, richly extracted off-dry flavours of honey and melon on the palate. Nicely balanced and well-priced. (TA)

89 Picamelot Crémant de Bourgogne NV, Burgundy ($17.95)

Pale yellow. Light nose, pastry notes, fresh bread, hints of

chalk. Fresh light taste, tender fruity core with good body.

Quite dry, the nice finish gains extra length from a touch of bitterness. A great opener to dinner. (GBQc)

88 Château St-Martin de la Garrigue Picpoul de Pinet 2011, Côteaux du Languedoc ($17.40) Pale yellow. Floral notes hover over white peach and limestone. Vivid acidity and fresh citrusy taste in an intense middle palate that has surprising body and weight for the variety.

Equally full in the finish, this is a generous expression of Picpoul. Ready to drink. (GBQc)

87 JeanJean Ormarine Picpoul de Pinet 2011, Côteaux du Languedoc ($12.95)

Pale yellow with green reflections. Discreet nose, minerally, only hints of white peach and ginger. Light body, sharp acidity, delicate taste of white fruits. Round finish.

Drink now. (GBQc)

87 Domaine Le Pive Gris de Grande Camargue 2011, IGP Sable de Camargue, LanguedocRoussillon ($14.50) Very pale pink colour.

Delicate nose of strawberry and a hint of nail polish.

Delicate, fruity taste, refreshing acidity, nicely dry and easy to drink now with surprising length. (GBQc)

87 Baron Phillippe de Rothschild Mouton Cadet Blanc 2010, Bordeaux AC ($15.99)

Sauvignon-green herbal pungency on the nose with soundly balanced clean citrus and green apple fruit in a medium-weight package.

Reliable, if unexciting. (SW)

87 Vignerons de la Cadiérenne Cuvée Grande Tradition 2011, Bandol, Provence ($18)

Pale pink. Citrusy nose of grapefruit, light strawberry and dry minerality. Light taste of strawberry makes a return on the palate followed by warmth from the alcohol (14.5%) that makes the finish a bit heady. (GBQc)

85 Domaine de la Chauvinière Muscadet 2009, Loire Valley ($14)

Pale silvery-yellow. The nose starts with tangerine, then is instantly overtaken by ripe apple and melon. Classic Muscadet minerality underlies mixed citrus flavours. Light-bodied and the very definition of crisp. A neutral but robust background to lime-marinated grilled cod served with potatoes fried Spanish-style with roasted red peppers and olives. (RL)*

88 Joseph Drouhin Chablis Vaudon 2010, Burgundy ($19.95)

This is a superb value in the realm of Chablis! This

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//the notes textbook example starts off with a pale straw colour and then heads into a mélange of lemons, minerals and green apples. There is very good length and brisk acidity, which makes you want to shuck a dozen or so oysters … and go to town! (ES)

88 Domaine SeguinotBordet Chablis 2010, Burgundy ($20)

A fabulous wine at this price point with a gorgeous nose of ripe peach, white flowers, toast and minerals.

It’s very pretty in the mouth with mellowed stone fruits, subtle minerality and persistence through the finish. Pair with scallops or grilled trout. (RV)

88 Bachelder Bourgogne Aligoté 2011, Burgundy ($22)

Normally, I am not a big fan of the Aligoté. That being said, the grapes for this wine were sourced from the lowlands within the privileged commune of Puligny-Montrachet.

Subsequently, the quality is undeniable. The rock-hard minerality is complemented by equally rock-solid acidity.

There are also some greenapple and citrus nuances which add complexity.

Where to purchase this wine?

Well, the majority of production has been earmarked for Joe Beef Restaurant in Montreal. The rest will be distributed here and there, throughout Canada. (ES)

62 // November 2012

88 Bachelder Bourgogne 2010, Burgundy ($29.95)

A good portion of the grapes for this wine were sourced from the villages of PulignyMontrachet and Beaune. The toast, vanilla, white flowers, green apple and cream on the nose meshes with cinnamon and anise on the taste buds. There is very good length as well as a tangy aftertaste. Drink over the next 3 years. (ES)

87 Mouton Cadet Reserve Graves Blanc 2009, Bordeaux ($15)

Baron Philippe de Rothschild has a crafted a very nice blend of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle at a shockingly attractive price. It possesses a fine nose of grapefruit, apple, gooseberry, lime, spice and toasted almonds. It is vibrant and clean on the palate with fresh grapefruit and citrus flavours lifted by a lick of spice. (RV)

85 Reserve de Sours Sparkling Rosé NV ($19)

A blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon made in the méthode traditionelle, it is described as “brut” but actually has a touch of sweetness. The colour is medium-deep peach, with a moderate quantity of bubbles.

The scent is of orange and banana with a bit of red-berry bite. Tastes of ripe strawberries, with a bit of minerality and refreshing acidity. For immediate drinking. (RL)*

94 Louis Latour Romanée St-Vivant 2009, Burgundy ($300)

A knockout with ripe yet finessed bramble, earth, spice, blueberry-raspberry fruits, cloves and cigar-box cedar aromas. It is layered in the mouth with rich, complex and highly extracted black and red fruits followed by lavish spices and silky tannins through the finish. A virtuoso Pinot performance. Try with a veal parmesan. (RV)

93 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2009, Burgundy ($80)

The 2009 vintage in Chablis, and Burgundy in general, was warm and produced wines that can be described as opulent, ripe and round with far richer fruits then consumers are used to. The Les Clos, however, is heavenly. A rich style with amplified stone fruits, slate and minerals on the nose and following to the palate. It is a limestone bomb, a beautiful thing. (RV)

92 Domaine SeguinotBordet Chablis Fourchaume 2010, Burgundy ($30)

A gorgeous wine with a nose of stone fruits, melon, pears, citrus and vivid stony minerality. It shows fruit intensity on the palate with a fine bead of flinty minerality, all balanced out by racy acidity.

Just add oysters. (RV)

92 Jean-Claude Boisset Échézeaux 2009, Burgundy ($175)

A nose of underbrush, truffles, cedar, cherry, small black berries and spice. Very elegant Pinot Noir, considering the hot vintage; silky on the palate with meaty-earthy red fruits and plush tannins. (RV)

92 Albert Bichot Échézeaux 2009, Burgundy ($200)

A tighter example of Pinot, but slowly revealing notes of cherry, underbrush, spice and oak stylings in a finessed style on the nose. It’s well balanced and persistent in the mouth with pure red fruits, lavish spice notes and acidity all harmonious through the finish. A three mustard rabbit stew would work well with this wine. (RV)

90 Famille Perrin La Gille Gigondas 2010, Rhône ($29.95)

Dense purple colour with a herbal nose redolent of black fruits and lavender.

Full-bodied, dry and savoury on the palate; a firm tannic structure with a liquorice note on the finish. (TA)

90 Domaine de StSiffrein Châteauneufdu-Pape 2010, Rhône ($39.95)

This is really cellar-worthy.

Dense purple in colour, it offers a nose of cedar, blackberry and toasted herbs.

Full-bodied on the palate with

dry, savoury, blackberry flavour, firmly structured with an earthy finish. (TA)

89 Laurent Gauthier Grand Cras Vieilles Vignes Morgon 2010, Beaujolais ($15.95)

A named village Beaujolais at a great price. Deep purple colour; peppery cherry nose; light and elegant on the palate. Easy drinking and chillable. A versatile food wine. (TA)

89 Clos des Fées Les Sorcières 2009, Côtes du Roussillon, Languedoc-Roussillon ($18.35)

Ruby-purple. Soft nose of black fruits, very ripe but not jammy; spicy notes and pastry notes from the oak.

Velvety, warm and full on the palate, the intense fruit and silky tannins coat the mouth. Only the finish is a little firm. Drink over the next 3 to 5 years. (GBQc)

/GERMANY / 91 Schloss Reinhartshausen Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Kabinett 2009, Rheingau ($17.95) Great value here. Pale straw colour with a minerally nose of honey and citrus already developing petrol notes.

Off-dry; caramel and grapefruit flavours, beautifully balanced and lingering. (TA)

91 Markus Molitor Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese Kabinett 2009, Mosel ($26.95)

An old-style German Riesling that fairly sings on the palate. Pale straw with a lime tint; minerally, floral nose of limes and honey; light and elegant on the palate. Off-dry and beautifully balanced with lively honey and raisin flavours.

Ideal with pork or game, especially when grilled with some asparagus. (TA)

87 Clean Slate Riesling 2011, Mosel ($13)

A simple, affordable Riesling from the Mosel with a nose of peach, lemon-lime and slate. It’s tasty on the palate with a bit of fresh apple fruit to go with peach and lime fruit and a pinch of minerality. Pair with Asian food and sushi. (RV)

/ITALY / 90 Sannio Dei Feudi di San Gregorio 2007, Falanghina DOC ($24.99)

Bears an uncanny resemblance to Scottish orange marmalade with rich, bitter orange-peel flavours on the weighty palate backed up by lively acidity and good length. Complex yellow tree-fruit notes round out the finish. Serve with hors d’oeuvres.(SW)

87 Ruffino 2011, Orvieto Classico DOC ($13.99) Proffers fragrant floral and green fruit scents with succulent ripe green apple flavour and lively, refreshing acidity. A classic Italian food-friendly wine to drink with lighter seafood and white meat dishes. (SW)

87 Danzante Pinot Grigio 2010, IGT Delle Venezie, Veneto ($15)

Pale yellow. Typical nose of white fruits with citrus notes.

Style is on the balance and elegance side rather than intense expression of the fruit.

You don’t get tired of drinking it, even if it is not the most impressive. (GBQc)

91 Luce della Vite Luce 2007, IGT Toscana ($99.50)

of passion fruit. Followed by mouth-watering citrus and green gooseberry flavours, vibrant acidity and grippy mineral in the classic Marlborough style. (SW)

88 The People’s Choice Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Awatere, Marlborough ($18.99)

Typical Kiwi Sauvignon style loaded with aromatic gooseberry, passion fruit, mineral and grassy freshness. Green fruit flavours are assertive and backed up by crisp acidity and firm minerality. (SW)

/PORTUGAL / 88 Quinta da Aveleda Loureiro Alvarinho 2011, Vinho Verde ($9.95)

Dark ruby. Black fruits have the advantage over the oak in a very elegant nose. Mediumbodied, it shows more finesse than the 2008, in part due to an extra year of evolution, but the 2008 vintage provided more concentration due to lower yields. Drinks well right now, but you can wait a few more years. (GBQc)

Alvarinho is the same grape as Albariño, which is grown across the border in Spain’s Rias Baixas region. The wine is very pale in colour with a lime tint. Minerally, spring flowers, lemon peel and white peach on the nose; dry, elegant, grassy-herbal and citrus flavours; light and crisply dry with a light spritz.

Great value at the price. (TA)

/NEW / ZEALAND

/SOUTH / AFRICA

89 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Marlborough ($19.99)

88 MAN Vintners Tormentoso Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2011, Paarl ($14.95)

Highly aromatic gooseberry backed up with fresh grassy and mineral scents and a whiff

Chenin Blanc is South Africa’s signature white grape. It used

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//the notes extracted, perfumed blackberry flavour; mouth-filling with a firm tannic finish.

Great value. If you can find some Cabrales cheese, you’ll be delighted. (TA)

to be called Steen. Strawcoloured with a nose of quince, oak and that smoky note when you strike flint stones together, it’s mediumbodied, dry, elegant and well-balanced. (TA)

/SPAIN / 88 Pavon Fino Sherry NV ($14.50)

Pale yellow, not at all brownish. Attractive nose of marmalade and flowers, with wood and salty tones from the sherry fermentation.

Full-bodied but fresh and crisp; tastes of roasted nuts, tea, and black olives. If you must drink wine with hard old cheeses, have mercy on your reds and try this instead. (RL)*

87 La Casona de Castaño Old Vines Monastrell 2011, Yecla ($8.90) Monastrell is what the Spaniards call Mourvèdre.

Deep purple in colour with a spicy black-cherry-andpipe-tobacco nose; full-bodied on the palate, richly

90 Caymus Mer Soleil 2009, Central Coast, California ($31.25)

/UNITED / STATES

Light golden colour. This Chardonnay offers a shy nose with mineral and ripe apricot notes. Oaky, ripe, rich with good acidity and an intense finish. (GBQc)

91 Bachelder Chardonnay 2010, Willamette Valley ($29.95)

89 Château St Jean Chardonnay 2010, Sonoma ($18.95)

Peaches-and-cream corn, caramel, citrus, green apple, spice and flowers are built on a medium- to full-bodied frame. There is excellent length as well as sturdy backbone of acidity.

It should age well for the next 5 years. (ES)

90 Château St Jean Fumé Blanc 2010, Sonoma ($19.95)

Interesting, complex bouquet reveals citrus, apple, subtle smoky/buttery overtones with a pinch of spice. Crisp citrus and green apple flavours on mid-palate shift to lightly honeyed peach on the finish.

Wonderful with a spicy steak tartare. (SW)

Invitingly rich citrus and buttery/toasty notes on the nose with a touch of spice and a whiff of smoke. A generous mouthful of citrus, green apple and pear comes wrapped in a creamy texture with notes of hazelnut and creamery butter on the finish. Excellent value. (SW)

89 Etude Pinot Noir Rosé ‘Estate Grown’ 2011, Carneros, California ($36)

Very flavourful with aromas and flavours of cherries, cranberries and citrus.

Refreshing and juicy with bright acidity and nice underlying structure, making

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64 // November 2012

it ideal and versatile to pair with everything from salmon to south Asian cuisine and from shellfish to turkey dinner. (GB)

87 Caymus Conundrum 2010, California ($23.95)

Exuberant nose of exotic fruits, a complete fruit salad in the glass! Will impress any novice and some experts alike. Semi-dry, it is definitely trying to seduce your taste buds. If you like that style, it will easily succeed.

Drink now. (GBQc)

91 Caymus Belle Glos Clark & Telephone Pinot Noir 2010, Santa Barbara ($40)

Dark ruby. Nice and distinctive nose of red fruits, quite ripe. There is a nice freshness on the palate, a velvety feel and the oak component is well balanced. A fine example of California Pinot Noir, ready to drink. (GBQc)

90 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Napa ($70.50) Very ripe nose showing

eucalyptus and red and black fruits over oaky notes.

Warm and intense on the palate, it has more generosity than finesse at this stage.

Tannins are a bit firm and drying in the finish, another reason to give it some more time, say 7 to 8 years or maybe more. (GBQc)

89 Paso Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Paso Robles ($19.99)

Shows elegantly developed dark fruit, fine spice and a subtle trace of oak on the nose. Generously ripe blackberry and blackcurrant flavours come in a well-structured, full-bodied package.

Blackcurrant notes linger on the finish. A stylish, reasonably priced Cab that reveals the solid character of Paso Robles terroir. (SW)

86 Smoking Loon Old Vine Zinfandel 2009, California ($15)

You can call this popular Cali Zin Old Faithful. It always serves up a spicy-peppery nose with blackcurrants, plums and espresso notes on the nose. It’s bold and peppy on the palate with sweet spices, dark fruits and firm tannins. Serve with a big hunk of rare grilled beef. (RV)

86 Primal Roots Red Blend 2010, California ($16.99)

Combines plummy ripe Merlot, Syrah and wild-berry scented Zinfandel in a richly ripe confection. Sweet fruit,

mocha, dark chocolate and spice are held somewhat in check by good acidity and moderate tannins. (SW)

/SPIRITS / Gosling’s Family Reserve Old Rum ($40)

Warm mahogany in colour, this aged (ten years) rum shows aromas of molasses, prune, caramelized brown sugar and oaky vanilla.

Mild spice in the mouth with a rich, smooth, viscous feel and flavours suggesting citrus, vanilla, caramel, baked apple and tobacco leaf. (TS)

Dictador 12 Year Old Ultra Premium Reserve Solera System Rum (40% ABV, $60)

From Carragena de Indias, Colombia, comes this rum which has been aged, like sherry, by blending younger product with older prior to bottling. Raisin pie, cocoa, caramel and toasted nuts on the nose with flavours of dried fruit, nuts and oloroso sherry. Well-balanced and smooth, with a long, memorable finish. (TS)

El Dorado Single Barrel “EHP” Demerara Rum (40% ABV, $100) “EHP” identifies rums from the distillery attached to the Enmore Sugar Factory, founded some 200 years ago

by Edward Henry Porter (hence EHP). His original wooden Coffey still used for

this rum is the only one currently operational in the world today. Intense aromas of orange peel, molasses, crème brûlée, toffee and nutmeg give way to a smooth, silky spirit with subtly sweet sultana/fruitcake nuances and a long, warm, balanced finish. Pour a glass with a crème caramel. (TS)

Bastille Handcrafted Rare Whisky 1789 (40% ABV, $55)

Distilled in southwest France and aged in Limousin oak casks, this unique whisky sports an interesting candied-fruit fragrance with a distinct hint of orange liqueur. In the mouth it is soft, round and relatively gentle, again with distinctive citrus notes intermingled with some toasty/peppery overtones. Distinctive. (TS)

Bowmore 25 Year Old Single Islay Malt (43% ABV, $390)

Sometimes older is better, as is the case with this impressive 25 Year Old from Bowmore. Complex aromatics of sea spray, balanced peatiness, a hint of malted barley, honey and a whiff of that right-before-a-thunderstorm ozone. Rich and luxurious on the palate with toasted nuts, a hint of smoke and some toffee notes. The finish seems to go on forever (seriously, after 15 minutes it was still there). If you’d like to try something interesting, find a dozen Malpeque oysters. (TS)

/BEER / Bruton Bianca, Italy ($7) A little sparkling-like with fresh aromas of citrus and coriander and yeast; soft and refreshing flavours of coriander, orange peel and spices with a pleasant acidity. (GB)

Bruton Lilith, Italy ($7)

Amber ale with aromas of raisins, citrus and gentle hops; flavours of light citrus and malts with a dry, nutty, slightly hoppy finish. (GB)

Elysian The Immortal IPA, Washington ($16.99/6pk)

A light sweetness and floral nose with fruity hoppy notes, flavours of grapefruit with hints of pepper and lemon and a pleasant, mild, hoppy bitterness on the finish. Nice character and quite drinkable. (GB)

Green Flash Brewing West Coast IPA, California ($15.99/4pk)

Very tasty IPA with aromas of grapefruit, tropical fruit and pine with a big, balanced hoppy bitterness. Flavours of grapefruit, pine and citrus and a great, long, smooth hoppy finish. (GB)

Mill St Belgian Wit, Ontario ($13.99/6pk)

Soft and fresh. Gentle aromas and flavours of coriander and orange peel with the slightest hint of spice; clean, not a lot of complexity, but easy drinking and pleasant. (GB)

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\\ 65

bubbling up\\

final word

by tony aspler

In 2006, while I was researching The Wine Atlas of Canada, I visited Benjamin Bridge and I tasted not only the very first sparkling wines Gamble and Brisbois produced — the 2002 Brut and the 2002 Blanc de Noirs — but also the 2004 vintage. That year was the coolest grape-growing season on record over the past 20 years, yet Brisbois was happy with the fruit, which confirmed for him that Nova Scotia could grow grapes similar in quality to the Champagne grapes he’d worked with in his native France.

This 2004 vintage was destined to become the winery’s inaugural release and the wines we tasted blind in August — Benjamin Bridge Brut Reserve 2004 and the same wine given an extra two years on the lees and designated as Late Disgorged. This LD wine had spent an extraordinary seven years on its lees.

Interestingly, the grape blend in these wines would make a traditional champenois shudder — 57 per cent Pinot Noir, 22 per cent Chardonnay, 15 per cent Vidal, and 6 per cent of the local Nova Scotia variety, L’Acadie. (Since 2009 Benjamin Bridge’s sparkling wines en tirage have been 100-per-cent vinifera.)

So there we were with four glasses of bubbly in front of us, two Champagnes and two Benjamin Bridge sparklers. Their colour didn’t give anything away, nor did the activity of the mousse, nor the size of the bubbles. It would be all in the taste to determine which were the champagnes and which were the Nova Scotia bubblies. My notes read: Wine #1: Bready, leesy nose; rich, green nut flavour; crisply dry, good length, mature apple flavour on the finish. Very champagne-like. 91 points.

A small Nova Scotia winery has redefined the term chutzpah.

Benjamin Bridge Vineyards in the Gaspereau Valley put up two of its sparkling wines against Roederer Cristal 2004 and a grower’s champagne, David Léclapart L’Apôtre Blanc de Blanc 2005, in a blind tasting. Eighteen sommeliers and wine writers participated in the event held at Canoe Restaurant in Toronto in August.

Before I reveal the outcome, the story of Benjamin Bridge is worth telling. In 1999 Gerry McConnell and his late wife Dara Gordon purchased a 60-acre farm on the Gaspereau River. The following year they contracted winery consultant Peter Gamble to advise them on creating a vineyard and winery. Gamble’s brief was to make world-class wines, and if that didn’t seem possible after three years of research and winemaking, to abort the operation.

Given the Gaspereau Valley’s terroir and climate, Gamble recommended the production of aromatic whites and classic sparkling wine. To oversee the sparkling wine operation, he reached out to one of Champagne’s leading experts, Raphaël Brisbois, Piper Heidsieck’s chef de cave who had created the Omar Khayyam sparkling wine in India and consulted to California’s Iron Horse Winery and Blue Mountain Vineyards in British Columbia. “Our target,” said Gamble to McConnell, “is prestige cuvée sparkling.”

66 // November 2012

Wine #2: Leesy, bready nose with lemony, floral and honey notes; very elegant, light and crisp on the palate. Delicious.

Probably Cristal. 93 points.

Wine #3: Earthy, apple and lemon flavours, mature notes, with a touch of sweetness in mid-palate. Late Disgorged. 90 points.

Wine #4: Minerally, crisply dry, green apple, lemony, very fresh and lingering. BB. 91.

When the dust settled the majority of the tasters placed wine #2 as their favourite. The serving order was: David Léclapart L’Apôtre Blanc de Blanc 2005 ($138) Benjamin Bridge Brut Reserve 2004 ($74) Roederer Cristal 2004 ($289) Benjamin Bridge Brut Reserve 2004 Late Disgorged ($90) And what does this prove? a) Nova Scotia has the climate and soil to make world-class sparkling; b) it pays to hire experts and c) ultimately, I’m a cheap date. My preference was for the least expensive bubbly. •

illustration: FRancesco Gallé, www.francescogalle.com

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