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//features 20// Grandes Dames by Jacqueline Corrigan
Who are the women of Champagne?
22// Quiet
by Michael Pinkus
20
Ripping out Pinot Noir for Syrah in the Okanagan.
24// to great effect by Brenda Mcmillan
Rolling through Napa’s scene.
26// this could be you by rick Vansickle
How 40 Canadians came to own an Argentian winery.
30// trek
by Michael Pinkus A look at Chile’s whites.
32// add it up
by Rosemary Mantini Tidings’ ultimate matching guide.
39// sizzle
47
by carolyn Evans-Hammond The baconists are coming.
42// true grits by Tod Stewart
A southern ramble.
47// All together now
by Duncan Holmes
26
At the heart of fusion cooking.
tidingsmag.com
\\ 3
//Ă la carte 7// Contributors 8// from the editor 11// Conversations Letters to the editor.
13// Simple Living Michael Volpatt
14// Umami Joanne Will
17// Anything but
martinis
sheila swerling-puritt
18// Bon Vivant Peter Rockwell
45// Discovery Gilles Bois
52// Davine
Gurvinder Bhatia
55// Bouquet Garni Nancy Johnson
66// final word
66
45
//notes 46// the mav notes
Tony Aspler
54// the food notes
An appetizing selection of food-friendly faves.
58// The Buying Guide
Top wines from around the world scored.
Argentina // p. 58-59 Australia // p. 59
14
Canada // p. 59-61 chile // p. 61-62 France // p. 62-63 Italy // p. 63 New Zealand // p. 63-64 portugal // p. 64 South Africa // p. 64-65 spain // p. 65 United States // p. 65
4 // September 2012
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//online
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+ more on tidingsmag.com
Follow us on twitter and tumblr Quenchbytidings.tumblr.com twitter.com/quenchbytidings Wine critic and London-trained sommelier Carolyn Evans Hammond is a two-time best-selling wine book author. Her latest book, Good Better Best Wines, soared to bestseller in Canada and the US within weeks for release. She is a member of the UK Circle of Wine Writers and the Vice President of the Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada.
Labour Day Tipples Add a dash of colour and fun with these cocktails: One Wry Whiskey Cocktail, Sweet & Spicy Daiquiri and more.
The Great Harvest Learn how to preserve the long, hot days of summer: veggie and herb calzone, easy tomato sauce, fruit salsas and more.
Feature Discover the best of fruit wine.
Cooking Challenge Amazing Low Calorie Lasagna.
Michael Pinkus is the head-writer and Grape Guy behind OntarioWineReview.com, publishing a bi-weekly newsletter full of informative reviews and articles about the Ontario wine scene. He is currently the President of the Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada. You can catch up with his exploits on the web and thru Twitter and Facebook.
Wine Tasting Club Explore Malvasia: a grape variety used to flavour Madeira.
blogs Get your food and wine fix, updated weekly. This month, Kitchen Mama lets you in on some great food buys.
Plus!
More original recipes; a daily serving of
food and drink news and views; culinary tips, tricks and techniques.
Throughout his wordsmithing life in Canada, Duncan Holmes has retained strong links to his Australian roots. Our man Duncan still keeps in techno touch with now-famed childhood chum Peter Lehmann — and when spring comes to the Northern Hemisphere, and it’s harvest time Down Under, he digs for the good dirt on the latest — from the kind of harvests he well remembers.
Next Month In Tidings 8th annual Maverick chefs issue The art of naming a winery Healthy eats
Harry Hertscheg is executive director of the Vancouver International Wine Festival. Harry writes reviews, judges in competitions, presents seminars, teaches classes, and is a Wine DJ for fundraisers. He’s a Certified Wine Educator and Certified Specialist of Spirits (Society of Wine Educators), and has a Diploma in Wines and Spirits (Wine and Spirit Education Trust). Follow @HHonwine on Twitter.
A hard look at sustainability: Chile, New Zealand and Italy I dream of bourbon From blends and shiraz ... And So Much More
tidingsmag.com
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//from the editor September 2012 Issue # 305
no match I challenge you all to find me the perfect match (barring my wife and me). Is it foie gras and Icewine? Or Scotch and pecan pie? What about sushi and Sake? Peanut butter and jelly. We’re not talking about oil and water. Like most things in life it’s hard to define “perfect.” Ideal is a word often bandied around. Optimum is incredibly grandiose. And “wow factor” has pizazz but may fizzle out if used too much. Now all of us have found “it” before. Whether early on in life, while at the family dinner table, or at any of the top restaurants around the world, you’ve tasted it once. That wonderful mouthfeel you never want to finish. Then comes the second bite and maybe a third. You promise yourself to come back to this match once more. You try to recreate it at home or you keep going back to the original spot. But the moment is gone, and that match you so highly coveted seems like it has disappeared. For some, an element may have changed. An apprentice had a hand in preparing the latest dish. Your aunt added less oregano this time. There is always something that is different and the match is no longer ultimate — it’s simply good. This has happened to me often. But I’ve started to note when it has happened the most, and one simple, tiny, little thing is constant. Every time I had a wow match, it’s always been mixed in with something magical. Now let me tell you my matching story. Yes, the Icewine and foie gras was exquisite but there was something that night which made things shine. I was at a winemaker’s dinner, sitting with chefs, writers and other cohorts. We’d gone through several enlightening matches — and bottles — before the foie gras was served. A glass of Niagara Icewine was poured and I was curious. “It will be too cloying,” I told myself. “The sugar and acidity will overwhelm.” But once fork and glass met an instant smile had come over my whole body. This was the perfect match. I immediately told everyone of my Everest discovery. We all cheered and the connection between this food and that wine was cemented in my mind. The story doesn’t end there. I’ve often come across this pairing and even at times instigated its creation with Higgs boson precision. And every time, “Meh.” The foie gras and Icewine was good but never wow. It was fine but not ideal. I’d do it again but it wasn’t perfect. It just was. And that realization was one of the saddest moments of my life.
8 // September 2012
\\
Editor-in-chief
Aldo Parise editor@tidingsmag.com Contributing Editors
Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart Contributing food Editor
Nancy Johnson Contributing Lifestyle Editor
Rosemary Mantini Columnists
Tony Aspler, Peter Rockwell, Michael Volpatt, Joanne Will, Sheila Swerling-Puritt, Gilles Bois Contributors
Sean Wood, Harry Hertscheg, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Rick VanSickle, Michael Pinkus, Carolyn Evans-Hammond, Jacqueline Corrigan, Brenda McMillan, Duncan Holmes, Jonathan Smithe Tasters
Tony Aspler, Rick VanSickle, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Jonathan Smithe, Ron Liteplo and Gurvinder Bhatia COPY DESK
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Redefining Argentinian Wines Two Steps At A Time
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conversations\\
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Senior Account Executive Jacquie Rankin: jrankin@dvtail.com 9 05-886-6640 ext 304 Sales Associate Amanda Jones: ajones@dvtail.com 905-886-6640 ext. 308 www.tidingsmag.com www.tidingseats.com Now in our 39 th year Kylix Media, 5165 Sherbrooke St. West, Suite 414, Montreal, Quebec, H4A 1T6, Tel: 514.481.6606, Fax: 514.481.9699. Subscription Rates: Canada: $36 per year, $58 per 2 years, USA: $55 per year, Other: $75 per year. Single Copies: $5.95. Tidings, Canada’s Food & Wine Magazine, a registered trademark of Kylix Media, is published 8 times a year: (February/March, April, May/June, July/August, September, October, November, December/January). Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. © 2012 Kylix Media Inc. Printed in Canada. ISSN-0228-6157. Publications Mail Registration No. 40063855. Member of the Canadian Federation of Independent Business.
Hooray for Matthew Sullivan for reporting on a politician involved in an illegal act! And kudos to that same politician, MP Scott Reid, for revealing how absurd it is that we can’t transport Canadian wine across provincial borders. It’s time to change that old law. George Alba, Montreal
Merle Rosenstein’s “Old School Beer” has increased my appreciation for craft beer. The brewers’ personal experiences encompassing their hardships and passions are really what make the beer taste so much better than the mass produced stuff.
... kudos to that same politician, MP Scott Reid, for revealing how absurd it is that we can’t transport Canadian wine across provincial borders ...
Lori Zentler, Edmonton
I had the pleasure of meeting winemaker Sue Ann Staff about a year ago. She is very funny and down-to-earth. Best of all, the wine she makes is really delicious. Michael Laurence, email
Nancy Johnson’s fish recipes kept us going all through the summer patio season. My whole family, including my 8 year-old picky eater, found the dishes to be very light and yummy. I’ve added them to my collection of rotating dinner recipes, and look forward to enjoying them again throughout the fall. Clare Bevil, Toronto
Tidings uses 10% post-consumer recycled fibres
ERRATUM Brewer Daniel Girard actually won the 2005 Canadian Brewery of the Year while he was working with the Pump House, not with Garrison. For more on brews, check out the July/August issue.
Material chosen for publication may be edited for clarity and fit. Please e-mail your comments and questions to editor@tidingsmag.com.
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living end of summer\\ bySimple michael volpatt
SAVOURY BRAISED GREEN BEANS Summer is quickly coming to a close. No more “summer Fridays” ending at noon, and for many of you, the kids go back to school, sports and other activities begin and the calendar fills up quickly. Making delicious meals in a short amount of time — that are also healthy — can be a challenge. This one is something that is not only easy to make but will have you smiling with each bite. Salmon has been part of my diet lately as I am trying to shed some pounds and eat healthier foods (the late-night slice of pizza was just not cutting it anymore). I’ve also been trying to simplify my meals and make them easy to prepare in little time. This dish, which can be prepared in a short period of time, is simply a pan-fried piece of salmon served over fresh carrots and cucumber. The salad is dressed with rice vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper and is absolutely delicious. A variation of this recipe became an appetizer recently and is also another quickie to prepare when last-minute guests pop in. Lettuce cups with chicken (I call them chicken tacos) seem to be all the rage these days. When you have them in a restaurant they tend to be oily and laced with sodium. So I took the concept and applied it to my salmon salad. You will like this one, and your guests will thank you for making healthy apps.
Here is what you will need: 1
1/4 1/2 2 3 3 1
large piece of fresh salmon, skin removed cup dry vermouth large cucumber, diced and skins removed carrots, cleaned and diced tbsp of rice vinegar (unseasoned) tbsp extra virgin olive oil head of butter lettuce or head lettuce, leaves removed and kept whole
The Becel® Buttery Taste Margarine in this green bean recipe has 80% less saturated fat than butter. And with a delicious buttery taste you’ll love, cheating on butter has never been easier. 15 mL (1 tbsp) Becel® Buttery Taste Margarine 1 small onion, finely chopped 1 clove garlic, finely chopped 454 g (1 lb) green beans 125 mL (1/2 cup) fat-free reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth 5 mL (1 tsp) lemon juice (optional) In 12-inch non-stick skillet, melt Becel® Buttery Taste Margarine over medium to high heat and cook onion, stirring occasionally, 4 minutes or until tender. Add garlic and cook 30 seconds. Stir in green beans and cook, stirring occasionally, 1 minute. Add broth and lemon juice, then bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and simmer 6 minutes or until green beans are crisp to tender. Season, if desired, with salt and black pepper. 4 servings Prep Time: 10 minutes Cook Time: 10 minutes For complete nutrition information, visit becel.ca
1. In a small frying pan, place 1 tbsp of extra virgin olive oil. Turn heat to medium
and let the oil heat up for about 15 to 20 seconds. Add the salmon and cook on both sides for about 3 minutes each. Turn up heat very high and add vermouth. Let cook until most of the liquid has disappeared. 2. Remove salmon from the pan and chop into small pieces. Toss with the rest of the ingredients (except the lettuce cups) and serve in a beautiful bowl, on a platter, with the lettuce cups arranged around the bowl. 3. Place a small scoop of the mixture into the lettuce cup, wrap and eat. YUM. …… You can also use fresh tuna (or any other fish for that matter) with this recipe, and if you want to make it spicy, add a tablespoon of chili-garlic sauce.
Visit becel.ca for more delicious recipes.
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909506_12054G6E_ButteryBeans_THIRD.indd 1
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6/27/12 3:34 PM
Many of us enjoy tucking into turkey, but few have heard of the Ridley Bronze, a bird with heritage status and listed by Rare Breeds Canada as threatened with extinction. So what does this heritage breed have to offer? “Most modern turkeys are pretty much exactly the same,” says Margaret Thomson, a former Rare Breeds Canada turkey co-ordinator who raises heritage turkeys at her home on Salt Spring Island. “They’re not quite cloned but genetically they’re very, very close to each other, and they all have to be bred by artificial insemination. The old heritage breeds, on the other hand, are naturally fertile, and it’s been proven that they have better immunity. They have great genetic variability, which the commercial ones have lost and might need to be reintroduced.” The Ridley Bronze was originally brought from the US and distributed across Canada until the 1970s. Around this time, the University of Saskatchewan had some Ridley stock that had been used by a student for a turkey behaviour project. “Here we were, sitting with a stock of turkeys that had been dispersed all across Canada for many years, and now all of a sudden it wasn’t,” says Dr Roy Crawford, professor emeritus at the University of Saskatchewan. “So we kept them, and for lack of a better name, we called them Ridley Bronze: bronze for its colour, and Ridley for the family that had once supplied the turkeys.” In the 1980s, Dr Crawford conducted a national survey for rare breeds of poultry and livestock. “I travelled coast to coast and this stock, the Ridley Bronze, was the only ‘unimproved’
14 // September 2012
umami
by joanne will
commercial turkey strain left in Canada. There had been tremendous genetic erosion and loss of other stocks. And pretty much the same thing had happened in the US,” says Dr Crawford, who retired in 1991. In 2008, due to funding constraints, the University of Saskatchewan dispersed its Ridley Bronze flock to a few breeders across the country. As of early 2012, a Rare Breeds Canada survey listed the national population at around 225 breeding females. This means the Ridley Bronze is off the critical list for possible extinction, but increased production would help lower the risk. “The wonderful thing about them is they are an old-time, slow-food kind of turkey. They can breed naturally and that’s certainly one value in keeping them. They’re quite rustic and suitable for home raising. They have far more flavour than commercial turkeys, partly because they’re older when you butcher them, because they’re slower growing. It’s wonderful flavour, just wonderful,” says Crawford. Thomson adds that the birds are ideally suited to living on small farms and don’t require a lot of care. “They do very well foraging for themselves; they can eat a great variety of things and don’t need a very high protein diet. They can live without added heat, and they’re really good at doing their own brooding. They’re independent, hardy, and smart — they’ll take shelter when it’s appropriate, they’re not afraid of snow or rain, and they’re part of Canada’s heritage.”
photo: valerie Michaud
gobble, gobble\\
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back to the future\\
I recently met a young American journalist who is working on a cocktail book. I asked her what hot new products bartenders are using, and her answer was classic Back to the Future. The three big “new” products are Galliano, Aperol and bitters, which were originally new in the late 1950s and early 1960s, when we marvelled at their secret recipes built around herbs, fruits, spices and roots distilled in a base liquor. Galliano was the hot new liqueur in North America when Leave It to Beaver was on the air. Was there a bartender that didn’t know how to prepare a Harvey Wallbanger or its naughty sibling, the Freddy Fudpucker? (Say it three times fast after imbibing a couple of them.)
the general
1 oz Galliano 1 oz bourbon 7Up/Sprite Lemon wedge Fill a highball glass with ice cubes. Pour all ingredients into the glass and top off with the soda. Stir and squeeze in lemon wedge and drop on top of the drink.
Aperol, originally created in the early 1900s in Padua, is now owned by the Campari company. It’s been described as a liqueur and an aperitif, making it very versatile. Bright orange in colour, it tastes much like Campari but has an alcohol content of only 11 per cent — Campari is twice that. In 2010 it received a double gold medal at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition and now appears on back bars everywhere.
+ Visit tidingsmag.com/drinks/ for more drink recipes
anything but martinis by sheila swerling-puritt
the aperol spritz
3 parts Bottega Prosecco 2 parts Aperol 1 splash soda water Place ice cubes into a lowball glass. Add the Aperol. Add the Prosecco and soda water. Garnish with orange slice.
A necessity in the early days of making cocktails, bitters all but disappeared from the drinks scene in the ’80s and ’90s before returning to the stage, thanks to the comeback of classic cocktails. Old favourites like the most highly distributed Angostura and Peychaud’s are back on retailers’ shelves. (What would a Sazerac be without a drop of Peychaud’s Bitters?) Bitters are made like gin: herbs, citrus peel and spices infused in high-proof alcohol. (Of course if you are looking for something to settle your stomach and the great hangover cure, there is the tried-and-true Underberg and Fernet-Branca.)
blue bird 1 1/2 oz Tanqueray gin 1/2 oz triple sec Dash of bitters Pour into a shaker over ice. Shake well. Strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon peel and maraschino cherry.
tidingsmag.com
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in a rut and fall choices\\
I love Italian wines but am stuck in a rut when it comes to discovering new regions. Any suggestions? You have to give props to the winemakers in Italy. With twenty regions, more than 700 different grape varieties and three distinctive growing belts, the Italians arguably produce the most diverse juice in the world. That said, while the average wine tippler may love a glass or two of Italian vino, most can’t seem to drink their way out of the warm and fuzzy regions of Tuscany or Veneto. Of course the buzz from those areas is deafening. I mean, even my mother has heard of Tuscany’s famed Chianti subregion and superstar grape Sangiovese, as well as Veneto’s subs Valpolicella and Soave and its classic Amarone wines. So what’s a wine lover with a penchant for Italian and an interest in sipping outside the box to do, if they are in a Tuscan/ Veneto rut? As mentioned there are eighteen other opportunities, some obvious and some a bit further off the beaten vine row. Though recommending you check out Piedmont in northern Italy may seem cliché, think about this: when’s the last time you plunked down $60 for a bottle of Barolo (the region’s most famous output, made around the town of the same name)? Odds are you haven’t in ages, if at all. You will be able to find mid-priced wines labelled Nebbiolo (Barolo’s grape) if you hunt around. A better bet is a drop made with the region’s no. 2 grape: Barbera. Wines with Barbera d’Alba and Barbera d’Asti on their front panels are soft and food-friendly, making them a perfect upgrade from the wines of Veneto. If you’re hot for unique liquid, look further down the coast to Campania. The Greeks brought the Aglianico grape to the region and it squeezes out robust reds with mucho macho tannins. Its famous whites are made in Greco di Tufo (made from Greco) and Fiano di Avellino (made from Fiano).
18 // September 2012
bon vivant
by peter rockwell
Your best bet for undiscovered Italians that balance originality with everyday pricing is Sicily. Today it seems like every European grape has taken root there, but the original red varietal is Nero d’Avola. Its output has a lot in common with richer Shiraz and it makes a great blender with more familiar fruit. If you’re up for a taste of the obscure, try a wine made from Grillo. Typically tropical with a splash of citrus, honey and minerality, they’re refreshing on their own and perfect with a seafood menu. Ciao Bella! Are there wines that taste better in the fall? Here’s a thought: it’s never too early to pour yourself a glass of port. I know; port probably hasn’t touched your lips since you took a swig of something pretending to be Portugal’s most famous beverage out of a paper bag at a high school dance back in the day. Guess what? The moon is closer to Earth than that junk is to real port, so spend a few bucks and buy a Late Bottled Vintage version. Its mix of soothing dark fruit with an undercurrent of booze will definitely warm you up as the temperatures start to dip. Not that I’m saying you can’t drink any wine at any time; it’s just that, for me (after port), a heartier red speaks to the season, the rustic aromas in the air and the robust dishes that get added to restaurant menus this time of year. Think of a full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon from just about anywhere, a complex Italian (see my other question) or a Grenache or Syrah blend from France’s Rhône Valley. The heat of summer doesn’t do these kinds of wines any favours, making the majority taste flabby and lackluster and fall the optimum drinking date. White wines can shine too. I like to chew on a well-oaked Chardonnay come fall and something with a bit of perfume on the nose, like a South African Chenin Blanc or Argentinian Torrontés.
+ Ask your questions at bonvivant@tidingsmag.com
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grandes
dames
by Jacqueline Corrigan “I drink Champagne when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company, I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise, I never touch it unless I’m thirsty.” Lily Bollinger, House of Bollinger What a fabulous quote! Yes, Veuve Bollinger, I couldn’t agree more: Champagne is for every occasion and not just for christening ships or toasting the bride. It is seductive, alluring and magical. What else can bring an instant smile to one’s face than the sight of a bottle of bubbly. It says celebration, joy, pleasure. There are some mysteries and myths surrounding this wine, and I (she says with great abandon and a bit of determination) am going to set the record straight and give credit where credit is long overdue. There, I’ve said it. Some questions and statements I’ve heard: 1. What is Champagne anyway, and how do they get those bubbles in the bottle? 2. Is Champagne a white wine made with white grapes? 3. Wasn’t it a monk named Dom Pérignon who invented Champagne and made the region famous? Corrections … um, I mean answers:
1. Champagne is the most northern wine region in France. While
there are other sparkling wines from around the world, only sparkling wine made in this region can legally call itself Champagne. The bubbles are created by the addition of yeast and sugar mixed into a base still-wine, or cuvée, tightly sealed and then left to develop in the bottle. As the yeast eats the sugar, it produces gas, which is trapped in said bottle. Voilà, we have bubbles.
20 // September 2012
2. Champagne
is made from three principal grape varieties, one white and two red. Yes, you did read that correctly, two red grapes. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier are the stars of the show. Each Champagne house has its own style and blends. A Blanc de Blancs is a wine made from white grapes, in this case Chardonnay. A Blanc de Noirs is made from the two red grapes. Different houses may make 100 per cent Pinot Noir Champagne. 3. And now we get to the heart of the issue for me. Dom Pérignon, while important in his own right to wine history, didn’t invent Champagne as is often believed. Rather, he detested the annoying, pesky nuisances (the bubbles) that were forming in his wine and did everything to try and rid himself of these dastardly things. It was actually Veuve Clicquot (veuve = widow) who put the Champagne region on the global map.
In fact it was a number of women who made Champagne what it is today, but unfortunately history has not recorded their story in any great detail or clarity. As 19th-century France was a chauvinistic society (c’est terrible!), women were to concern themselves only with homemaking and child-bearing, you know, being so fragile and all. (Sounds a bit like Mad Men.) But, if you were a widow, then these rules did not apply. After all, what possible harm could you do?
Well, let me see now as I drum my fingers. You could create an invention that would alter the Champagne industry and its production and that continues to be the industry standard practice to this day. You could market your brands beyond the borders of your own country while using all your savvy to slip through military blockades and embargoes to get to the rest of Europe, Russia in particular. You could entertain invading troops at your cellar door while your sales rep sneaks out the back door with a huge stash of your wine, off to meet an awaiting ship at the dock to transport them. Perhaps a dry Champagne was more to your liking and you anticipated that the British would buy your “brut” style, making it the industry norm. Those veuves! What else could they get up to? France was a country at war for well over one hundred years (not consecutively, mind you). For most of the duration of the Great War, the region of Champagne was bombarded daily. Unfortunately, the area was but a hundred miles due east of Paris, putting it smack in the way of enemy armies en route to capture the capital. From the French Revolution to the Franco-Prussian War, and for the original Mini-Me, Napoleon Bonaparte, with his visions of grandeur, men were in short supply (no pun intended). Just as the story is told of the women of WWII stepping up to the plate, working in the factories producing all the machines and ammunitions while the men were at war, so too did the women of 19th-century France perform work — they cared for the vines. With secateurs in hand they pruned and planted, trained and trellised, undeterred by the sounds of the Prussians marching toward them. It’s somewhat ironic that the wine from a region that has historically seen so much violence is typically associated with celebration and romance.
So who are some of these tenacious women? For one, BarbeNicole Ponsardin — Veuve Clicquot. Her husband died prematurely, and she took over the family business at the tender age of 27. She revolutionized Champagne with her invention of the riddling rack whereby wine that was once cloudy due to the difficulty in extracting spent yeasts would become bright and glistening. This rack, literally an A-frame with slotted holes, is able to hold the necks of wine bottles. They can then be rotated and the angles adjusted in order to ensure the yeasts eventually make their way to the neck for ease of release from its bottled prison. This system is still used to this day and is the job of the remueur, or “riddler.” Veuve Clicquot’s ability to market and brand her product in the face of incredible odds and political instability speaks volumes of her entrepreneurial spirit. Her 1811 vintage known as the “Year of the Comet” was a huge success in Russia, and her sales rose astronomically in a span of just five years. She was one of the most famous women of the 19th century. Veuve Pommery, another brilliant entrepreneur whose husband also died suddenly, took over the reins of his firm. Having been schooled in Britain, she was well aware of the
wine market there. Being a passionate and innovative gal, she decided to return to her old stomping grounds in search of new clientele. Upon her return to France she knew that a drier Champagne style would sell like gangbusters among the Brits. And gangbusters it did. Sweet was out! Dry it is and dry it will be. To this day the “brut” style is accredited to the ingenuity of Veuve Pommery. Marie-Louise Lanson de Nonancourt was another visionary. While you may be familiar with the Lanson name, this Champagne house was not her crowning glory. She was a member of the Lanson family but saw the writing on the wall (so to speak) due to France’s Napoleonic inheritance laws that would divide the company into many little pieces. Coming from a large family she decided to sell her share. When her husband died in WWI, she decided to buy a company that was on the verge of bankruptcy. That house was none other than that of Veuve Laurent-Perrier. VLP had died, leaving no heirs. While others thought Marie-Louise was off her nutter, she saw things long term. She had three sons who had been learning the ropes at the house of Lanson. Marie-Louise had the courage and the faith that one day her sons would bring “her” house to the prestigious status it holds today. And so we end off where we began, at the House of Bollinger. Lily (born Emily Law de Lauriston Bourbers) married into the already-established Bollinger family. While she did not take over at a young age like that of her compatriots, she did take over during a time of strife: WWII, German occupation, rations. Like her counterparts, her husband (and there seems to be a theme here) died prematurely. Lily knew enough to bulk up her vineyard count. She got into the real-estate market, if you will, securing her company’s ability to produce even more wine. So confident was she in her wines that she refused to bottle anything other than her vintage Champagne. In 1961, she did decide to enter into the premium market, but without creating another wine; rather, she aged a small portion of her vintage Champagne on their lees (a.k.a. dead yeasts) for an additional ten years, which added depth and complexity. And thus the R.D. line was created. R.D. is the initialism for récemment dégorgé, or “recently disgorged” (the spent yeast cells are expelled just prior to shipping). I’ve barely scratched the surface of the many accomplishments of these fine women, and the many other women whose stories have not been told. Dame Geoffrey, for instance — many Champagne houses purchased her ready-made wines to sell as their own. Or perhaps Veuve Germon — wine broker, bottler of her own sparkling wines. And there’s the widow Robert’s warehousing facilities in Paris, and the widow Blanc, yet another supplier of ready-made wines. So next time you pick up a bottle of Veuve Clicquot, look a little closer, and you will see her handwritten signature wrapping around the bottle’s label. Her signature, and her signature style, are a reminder of the influence and impact of women in the history of Champagne and its wines. •
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Quiet by michael pinkus
When first whisper of the rumour hit my ears, I said, “No way,” but the more I heard it the more it sounded plausible. British Columbia was ripping out Pinot Noir, an underperforming grape in the hot climate, and planting in its place the much more attractive Syrah. But as we all learned playing broken telephone back in grade school, the message can get a little garbled the farther it travels — and in a country as large as Canada, after travelling some 4,300 kilometres (Google’s estimate) from the Okanagan to Toronto, the message can change pretty drastically. So instead of relying on word of mouth from those who think they read it or saw it on Facebook somewhere, I decided to go to the authority on BC wines, John Schreiner, and ask what he knows about this supposed pull-up. “[The 2011] vineyard census found 948.71 acres of Pinot Noir in BC versus 546.5 acres of Syrah. I believe that Syrah has plateaued while growers deal with virus issues.” (The viruses are from unclean vines that were planted in the early 2000s, which need to be replaced.) Compared to the 2004 census, both varieties have increased to more than 340 acres. “Pinot Noir and Syrah, however, are not interchangeable. The best terroir for Syrah — Oliver-Osoyoos vineyards — is too hot for Pinot Noir. The best terroir for Pinot Noir — Okanagan Falls, Naramata, Summerland, Kelowna and Vancouver Island — is unsuitable, generally speaking, for Syrah ... However, temperatures and soil types dictate what is planted where. Syrah, for example, does well on Black Sage Road — the east side of the valley from Oliver south toward Osoyoos — where the soil is very sandy. Pinot Noir planted on this soil makes dilute wine unless cropped so low that it is not viable.” When interviewed, Pinot Noir (paraphrasing Mark Twain) said, “The rumours of my death in British Columbia have been greatly exaggerated ...” But since we’re already on the topic, let’s taste the grape that probably started the rumour, and find out why it wasn’t a far stretch to believe in its plausibility.
22 // September 2012
Moon Curser’s Chris and Beata Tolley
Thornhaven Estates Syrah 2010 ($25) Raspberry, strawberry and white pepper follows with a nice, fine tannin grit on the tongue.
Dirty Laundry Kay-Syrah 2010 ($25)
Lovely raspberry aromas with a hint of chocolate; this follows onto the nose with a little spicy white pepper on the palate. Quite quaffable.
Moon Curser Syrah 2010 ($25)
Jammy raspberry, plum, cherry and chocolate. Then taking hold are strawberry and more raspberry notes with a seam of white pepper, and then a delicious finish that lingers on forever.
Cedar Creek Syrah 2008 ($25)
Raspberry and chocolate lead the charge here, while some cranberry and blackcurrant also show up. Nice lingering spice on the mid-palate.
Desert Hills Select Syrah 2008 ($35)
Delicate notes of white pepper on the nose, while the palate is where fruit finds its mark with peppered raspberries and strawberries.
Nk’Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Syrah 2008 ($35)
Soft and smooth on the palate. Glides over the tongue with raspberry notes that are accompanied by a linger of white pepper.
Nk’Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Syrah 2009 ($35)
Pepper-and-dark-fruit nose with a touch of cocoa and spice. This all follows onto the palate with a mix of fresh-cracked white pepper and more spice. Great ripe, rich tannins and lots of fruit.
Cassini Cellars Syrah 2009 ($29)
Lots of blackberry with some blueberry notes; gritty aggressive tannins that lead to a bitey black-pepper finish.
Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate Proprietors’ Grand Reserve Shiraz 2007 ($25)
Black pepper, cherry, chocolate and blackberry and that’s just on the first sniff; lovely ripe black fruit on the palate, where black pepper turns white and has subtlety. There is a touch of jamminess but it blends well with the spice. This is really something special.
Jackson-Triggs Sunrock Vineyard Gold Series Shiraz 2008 ($35)
Subtlety of fruit and spice is the hallmark of this wine, with lots of hints of black fruit and pepper nuances. Fruit takes over the palate with enough pepper and spice to keep you interested; there’s even some chocolate notes that are really very appealing.
Poplar Grove Syrah 2009 ($30)
Tinhorn Creek Oldfield Series Syrah 2008 ($35)
Silkscarf Shiraz/Viognier 2008 ($38)
Mission Hill SLC Syrah 2009 ($38)
Full-on raspberry nose that follows with a full-on raspberry palate. There’s a little spice on the finish that keeps it from being a one-note wonder and some nice tannins that wrap it all up in a neat little package.
Floral (read: violet) notes coat raspberry fruit. This is a delicate version of Shiraz thanks to the hint of Viognier in the mix.
Aromas of black liquorice, white pepper and thyme, with just a touch of fruit. White pepper screams through the mid-palate to the finish, as black- and redcurrant awaken the tongue before segueing to a little crème de cacao.
Smoky, blackberry, with lots of pepper on the tongue. There is a nice balance between the fruit and acidity here. •
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to gr effec After a spring visit to Calistoga Estates in the Napa Valley, and then to my cousin’s in Healdsburg next door, I came home craving sun-filled skies, balmy evenings — and more California wine. I’d been treated to excellent examples at wineries, at restaurants and from my cousin’s cellar. At Pezzi King Winery in Dry Creek Valley, I sampled Zinfandel that would be bottled the following day, then toured the estate with my glass. Walking through fresh, sprouting vineyards, I could smell and taste ripe fruit, gravelly earth and sunshine in the wine. At one point, I saw a silver fox send a wild turkey riotously aflutter. The trip had the same effect on my heart. And my palate.
Rock Wall Monte Rosso Reserve Zinfandel 2009, Sonoma County ($40)
After Kent Rosenblum sold his namesake winery, he and his winemaker daughter Shauna opened Rock Wall winery in the East Bay overlooking San Francisco. The grapes for their Monte Rosso are a field blend from the Alameda vineyard in the Bay Area. Starting with big aromas of black fruits, this round, soft wine is velvet in the mouth. Bright raspberries and blackcurrants with a touch of honey and chocolate make this an easy sipper.
Ravenswood Old Hill Vineyard Zinfandel 2008, Sonoma Valley ($60) Joel Peterson has been the winemaker at Ravenswood for over 30 years, so their wines are consistently excellent, and this one is no exception. From very old rootstock (likely Sonoma’s oldest), the field blend of Zinfandel plus “13 Sonoma Mixed Blacks” is as alluring as a bespoke perfume. Orange blossoms and mint play with cherries and black raspberries before presenting rich, powerful fruit and spice enrobed in a light cloak of oak thanks to French barrels. Delicious.
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A. Rafanelli Zinfandel 2009, Dry Creek Valley ($30)
I love Rafanelli wine because it tastes real. Like grapes and time. Like the wine makes itself (and does a good job at it). Big, juicy blackcurrant and cherry fruit with briar nuances, a welcome vein of acidity to make it food friendly, some easy oak and tannins, and a long finish are what this wine is all about. A not-to-be-missed classic for Zin lovers.
Folie à Deux Ménage à Trois Red 2010 ($18)
Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot make a dark purple/burgundy wine with fresh and jammy cassis elements and an easygoing personality. A sipper with gourmet burgers.
Rodney Strong Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Alexander Valley ($30)
This dark burgundy cherry-and-plum wine is juicy and complex with a huge mouthfeel, nice acidity, easy tannins, a touch of oak and a medium-long finish. It quickly made the crowd happy at a barbecue.
Paraduxx Red 2008, Napa Valley ($55) The blend can vary from year to year as the winemaker strives to “craft a wine with a distinctly Californian personality.” In this bottle, find Zinfandel (68%), Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Zin’s natural exuberance is tamed somewhat by its partners, so although blackberry jam and black cherry dominate at first sniff, there is also a touch of brown sugar/molasses and a spiciness. Ripe plums and spicy black pepper are the predominant flavours, with a pleasant dry, leafy earthiness. Delicious, soft and luscious for dinner (maybe not with dinner).
by Brenda McMillan
reat ct Wilson Winery Molly’s Zinfandel 2009, Dry Creek Valley ($34)
Everyone in the Wilson family has a wine/ vineyard named for them. Molly is the winery dog. She insists that the best Zinfandel is made from Dry Creek Valley grapes, which is understandable as the winery she guards overlooks a stunning stretch of valley vines. Her wine entices with jammy berry notes then dives into rich, spicy raspberry and blackberry flavours with violets and a balancing acidity. Another signature wine and Double Gold award winner from winemaker Diane Wilson.
Quintessa 2002, Napa Valley ($120)
You could drive Napa’s Silverado Trail and miss seeing the Quintessa winery altogether as the building has a low profile, but you do not want to miss its wine. Its namesake is a blend of grapes from estate vineyards, and the nuances of each grape comes through. Almost opaque in the glass, this inky charmer smells of herbs and white pepper and ripe, juicy fruit with a touch of Bordeaux earthiness. Tannins have softened to sediment (I decanted) but stood up to the steak I was eating, as did the elegant, smooth and peppy blackcurrant and dark-chocolate flavours. The finish was looong. With 14.3% alcohol, this is a football player in a tux.
Peachy Canyon Vortex Zinfandel 2009, Paso Robles ($44) Paso Robles Zinfandel from four estates (with the oldest at 65 years), plus 10% Petite Sirah. Dark-cherry hues lead to lush jammy cherry, blackberries and strawberries, violets and spicy blackpepper flavours. This wine is soft with an underlying oakiness from American and Hungarian casks.
L’Aventure Optimus 2007, Paso Robles ($45) A winning blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot. Candied currants and vanilla on the nose lead to bright, spicy blueberry and blackcurrant fruit with a long peppery finish. A soft, silky, elegant evening gown disguising a hefty 14.7% alcohol.
Rodney Strong Reserve Chardonnay 2009, Russian River Valley ($35) Wonderful Chardonnay and Pinot Noir is produced in the Russian River because of the influence of nightly mists that steal up the valley from the coast to cool hot grapes. This full-bodied wine is a delight to fans of California Chardonnay because it is creamy, rich and round with a balancing acidity. It smells like apple pie but surprises with gentle minerality, lemons and toasty oak. The finish is satisfying.
Beringer Merlot 2009, Napa Valley ($30) Initial oak and black-cherry aromas give way to big fruit flavours, a good structure and cottony tannins with lingering chocolate. Think Black Forest cake. The wine opened up after an hour to a smooth harmony.
Stag’s Leap Karia Chardonnay 2009, Napa Valley ($40) To adapt to consumer tastes, some wineries are changing their Chardonnay style from a clobber of oak to a kiss. This Napa Valley Chardonnay certainly falls under the kiss category. With steely minerality and lemon on the nose, along with aromas of baking bread, it opens on the palate to buttery oaked citrus fruit, more minerals and enough acidity to make it feel somewhat refreshing. A kiss of oak, yes, but a passionate French one. •
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this
could
be
Mendoza: the heart of Argentina’s burgeoning wine boom and a long way from Calgary, Vancouver or Waterloo. But for a group of Canadian investors, there isn’t a better place in the world to park their hardearned cash. It’s not the lure of a quick return on their investment that has attracted 40 Canadians to help create a winery in a distant, foreign land. No. It’s because they, first and foremost, simply love the wine that’s being made in Mendoza. Calgary’s Dan Huras, by day a corporate executive and in his spare time
26 // September 2012
the chief financial officer and one of the founders of the group that’s financing Zorzal Vineyards and Winery in Mendoza, sums up the reasons he and his diverse group of Canadian investors have sunk money into the new winery. “Our owners all understand the dynamics of what is happening with the Argentine wine industry and are excited to be part of a fabulous new winery, in the fastest-growing wine region in the world,” he says. “We all fully expect this to be profitable in the long run, but un-
derstand it takes time to establish a new wine. In the meantime, we are in it for the fun, the excitement and, of course, the great wine.” Zorzal, located just 80 kilometres southwest of Mendoza’s provincial capital also called Mendoza, at 1,350 metres above sea level (the highest of any winery in the region), was established in 2007 by founder and general manager Gerardo Michelini, his winemaking brothers, Juan Pablo and Matias, and a group of investors from Alberta, BC and Ontario.
d
you
by rick vansickle
Gerardo, Juan Pablo and Matias Michelini
These investors come from varied backgrounds with one common link: their love of great wine. Many of them knew each other before investing in Zorzal or were approached by Zorzal president Bruce Murray, from Calgary, through leads provided by other investors. The board of directors includes Huras, Murray, Ian Mallory, Eric Schneider, and Otto Jelinek — world-champion figure skater and former Progressive Conservative MP and cabinet minister.
Mendoza, with its 1,200 wineries, is by far Argentina’s largest and most important wine-producing province. Malbec is king here, the variety that has conquered world wine-markets in recent years, although a large number of other varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Bonarda, Chardonnay and Torrontés, are also grown and are finding success in the international export markets. Mendoza includes within it several distinct winegrowing districts. It is in the high-altitude Uco Valley more specifically
in the Gualtallary zone, considered one of Mendoza’s finest wine-growing regions, that Michelini chose to locate the Zorzal winery and grow grapes.
The southwestern region of Mendoza can be quite extreme. It is a parched land with rosemary, thyme, hawthorn and cactus blending into a barren, desert landscape. The specific terroir at Zorzal is derived from a rocky limestone soil, with chalk-streaked stones and a breeze from the Andes, which makes it cool
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and healthy. It is here where a new kind of Malbec is being crafted, the kind that raises the bar for wines coming out of Argentina. And it’s this unique terroir that the Michelinis wanted to showcase (while also striving to give rise to a new dimension of quality). To get to the Zorzal winery in the small town of Tupungato, in Gualtallary, is just over an hour’s drive from Mendoza city. You pass through a small range of hills as you travel west through the Uco Valley, and the majestic snow-covered Andes rise from the valley floor in a stunning display of beauty and power. Not much had been farmed in the Mendoza region up until the mid-90s, when oenologists figured out that the irrigation problems that prevented agriculture in the past could be countered with deepwater well drilling and drip irrigation systems. This allowed growers to locate new vineyards at high altitudes such as the Uco Valley, with its limited access to canal water used by wineries in the lower altitudes.
The early pioneers to the region, such as Nicolás Catena, wanted to focus on higher-quality wines, not the mass-produced Malbecs that had, until the mid90s, dominated the Argentine wine industry and, in many ways, put the industry on the map. The higher temperatures in the lower-altitude regions of Mendoza were not ideal for producing a more elegant style of red wine, especially with Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. The terroir where Zorzal has staked its claim is ideal for growing Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier and Chardonnay for the whites, and Malbec, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon for the reds. (Zorzal has planted 175 acres of Malbec, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc and hopes to have it all under vine by 2013. The first wines, beginning with the 2008 vintage, are made with purchased grapes from trusted growers who share the same goal of non-invasive viticulture.) In general terms, the valley is very cold in the winter and very hot and dry during the summer with a long period of sunlight
malbec is king in argentina
Argentina is world famous for its Malbec, which has grown 300 per cent in wine exports from just six years ago. It remains Argentina’s most important grape, accounting for 13 per cent of total premium variety plantings. Mendoza remains the country’s most important wine region with 69.5 per cent of total grape production. More importantly, it is by far the most important region in terms of premium wines, representing 91.5 per cent of all bottled wine and 94.1 per cent of all wine exported to the North America.
28 // September 2012
and a cooling-off period at night. Rainfall is no more than 200 millimetres per year, making artificial irrigation essential. Zorzal shares its unique location with other major players who have moved into the area, including France’s Chandon (of Moët and Chandon), which recently bought and planted a substantial vineyard near Zorzal. Just down the road, Catena Zapata, considered one of the best wineries in Argentina, has its premium vineyard in the area. Freixenet, the large Spanish winemaker, also has a large vineyard nearby. Huras’s attraction to Zorzal stems from a love for the region and its wines. “I had travelled to South America many times prior to getting involved [with Zorzal],” he says. “I love the people of Argentina and the land. There are strong similarities with Alberta. The opportunity to launch a new winery in this region with a highly regarded and passionate wine family like the Michelinis was too good to pass up. Of course, a love of wine helped, too.” Huras has only visited the winery twice before returning this past spring to attend the launch of a new restaurant at Vina Morande, a Chilean luxury winemaker and the winery of Zorzal’s distribution partner, and then to Zorzal to meet with his team. It was during that trip that Huras learned Zorzal’s 2010 varietal Malbec was given 93 points and named one of the Top 100 Wine Best Values in the World by Wines & Spirits magazine (one of only two Argentine wines to make the list).
mendoza
With 159,000 hectares of vines at about 33 degrees latitude, Mendoza is by far Argentina’s largest and most important wine-producing province. This is the home of Malbec, the variety that has conquered world wine markets, although a large number of other varieties — Cabernet Sauvignon, Bonarda, Chardonnay, Torrontés and, of course, the ubiquitous Criolla varieties — are also grown. Mendoza includes within it several distinct wine-growing areas. Eastern Mendoza is relatively low in altitude and warm with deeper soils than other regions. In general, this is an area of high-yielding vineyards producing wines for domestic consumption. Bonarda does especially well in this area. To the west, Maipú is a department that includes within it some famous wine-growing districts, including Lunlunta, Barrancas and Coquimbito. Still further west and higher in altitude is Luján de Cuyo, which is another department, but it is also the name of the DOC that comprises several famous wine-growing districts, the most famous being Vistalba, Las Compuertas, Perdriel and Agrelo. Finally, the high altitude Uco Valley, which includes parts of the departments of Tunuyán, Tupungato and San Carlos, is considered one of Mendoza’s finest wine-growing regions. Among the famous districts of the Uco Valley are Gualtallary and La Arboleda in Tupungato, La Consulta in San Carlos, and Vista Flores in Tunuyán.
Most of the investors, many of whom have not yet seen their investment’s physical location but have all happily tasted what’s produced there, are planning trips over the next few years. Minto Schneider, wife of board member Eric Schneider, says their interest lies more on the wine side of things rather than worrying about a big return on their investment. The Waterloo, Ontario, couple, who are lifelong collectors of fine wine (mainly from Burgundy, Bordeaux, Germany and, of course, Argentina), were first and foremost “blown away by the quality of wine” being made at Zorzal. “We really like good wine,” said Minto. “It wasn’t a huge money-making venture. And part of the attraction was getting in on the ground floor and investing in Gerardo’s dream.” Huras says Zorzal has hit all the right notes right out of the gate, with some of the finest new wave of luxury wines in Argentina now being made at the new estate. “Our quality and consistency are phenomenal. We strive to be a high-quality luxury winemaker and are more than meeting those goals,” he says, and starts listing off recent awards, including the
Trophy Award for Best Argentine Malbec over $50 from Wines of Argentina, a gold medal for its Climax red blend, bronze for its Sauvignon Blanc and a double gold medal for its Reserve Malbec. “We have received many accolades and awards, but to me personally, I simply find our wines very enjoyable and drinkable. They are soft, silky smooth and with beautiful structure and balance. The winemakers know how to present an authentic expression of the terroir,” he says. I ask Huras how difficult it was to find 40 like-minded wine lovers to invest in a winery as far away as Argentina. “Well, I did most of the convincing to get those other Canadian investors, but I know they all came in because they love wine, love to travel, have a sense of adventure and just liked the idea of being part of this unique wine club,” he says. “I was personally approached by David Somerville, an investment banker who knew the Michelinis. He asked me to help him raise the money to build the winery — which was to be their family dream. I am an accountant so I did wait until I ran the numbers, but my heart said yes immediately.” •
Q uality and
Tradition, from one generation to the next
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30/11/11 11:02 AM
trek by michael pinkus
Chile ... a final frontier. This is winemaking to the extreme. Who are you kidding? Chile is considered to be one of, if not the, most perfect place to grow grapes. I have often referred to them (with a wink to Mr Charles Chaplin) as the “Great Imitators” because they seem to be able to ape any style from anywhere — as well as doing wines to call their very own (hello Carménère), and that applies across the board to reds and whites alike. Like Australian Shiraz? They can do that. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc? They’ve got you covered. Voluptuous Viognier? Juicy Pinot Noirs? Big bold Cabs or oaky Chardonnays? You’d better believe they can do that too. And don’t get me started on what they are doing in the Northern and Southern extremes of the country, where they are pushing the envelope of what you’d expect from a hot-climate country and making cool-climate wines with finesse. It’s the reason why foreign investment from well-established old-world wineries such as Lafite (Los Vascos) and Grand Marnier (Casa Lapostolle) have all set down roots to make wine. But when it comes to wines, most people still see the region with red-coloured glasses. Let’s take a few minutes to change all that and look at some of the fabulous whites coming from the long-thin line we call Chile.
30 // September 2012
Caliterra Tributo Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($15)
The nose seems like you’ve been there before, but on the palate the grapefruit softens, giving way to more tropical notes.
Concha y Toro Trio Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($14)
Soft and juicy; think Sauvignon Blanc on downers but still ready to party.
Cono Sur Limited Edition 20 Barrels Chardonnay 2008 ($25)
Good texture on the palate, good acidity, lots of finesse and of course, tons of fruit.
Amayna Chardonnay 2008 ($25)
The nose is peculiar, with notes of fig and goat cheese, but the palate doles out vanilla, passion fruit with a hint of floral and some good acidity; unexpectedly good.
Emiliana Signos de Origen la Vinilla Chardonnay/Viognier/Marsanne/Roussanne 2010 ($20) A real kitchen-sink kind of wine that shows an interesting creaminess in the mouth, containing honeysuckle and nice spice; very mouth-filling.
Quintay Q Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($15) This is a totally grassy number, perfect for the days you mow the lawn.
Maycas del Limari Reserva Especial Chardonnay 2010 ($20) This is a really pretty Chardonnay with a nice balance of fruit to wood: vanilla oomph and spice along with baked apple and peach cobbler notes. Truly yum.
Errazuriz Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2010 ($18) The nose smells of dried white fruits like apples and pears, but the fruit comes to life on the palate with pineapple and mango; there’s a slight lime pith note for some bitterness and for added bonus, vanilla.
concha y toro’s Ignacio Recabarren
Queulat Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($15)
The wine spends 3 months on its lees, which amps up both the nose and taste. Smells of tropical, gooseberry and grapefruit cocktail lead off; the taste keeps the tropical and grapefruit cocktail while the acidity keeps it clean and refreshing, with a nice lingering finish.
Concha y Toro Serie Riberas Chardonnay 2010 ($17)
Matías Garcés from Amayna
Concha y Toro Serie Riberas Sauvignon Blanc 2010 ($17)
Citrus, grapefruit and melon lead the charge on the nose, while the palate is refreshing but with real cutting acidity. Grapefruitcitrus notes mellow to grapefruit cocktail through the mouth, ending pleasantly with a long melon-grassy finish. Weighty mouthfeel that delivers a nicely fat (but not flabby), full and fruity wine.
The big 14% alcohol might carry you away here, but there is a nice balance of fruit to oak. The nose is grassy, herbal and grapefruitish with a nice hint of vanilla. There is some very pleasant acidity along with vanilla, hazelnut and mineral notes on the tongue. Lemon-melon and slightly tropical nuances finish it off nicely. This Chardonnay goes through no malolactic fermentation, keeping it extremely lively in the mouth.
Calina Chardonnay 2010 ($15)
Creamy and tropically tinged; very vanilla, with hints of pineapple core and peach juice.
Arboleda Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($16)
Don’t let the age on this one fool you; tropical fruit still reigns supreme with gentle acidity, melon and pineapple notes to the finish. •
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add it up by rosemary Mantini
So, Heidi Klum and Seal’s seven-year marriage has skidded to a nasty end. Did you see that one coming? Finding the perfect match seems nearly impossible! If you’re anything like me, the ups and downs of celebrity love leave you hungering for something more real, like a tasty meal and a good drink. Though not without its trials, properly paired flavours will always be blissful. And yes, like love, rules apply. Sarah Hoodspith-Carone of Carone Wines in Quebec puts it this way: “Classic matches for us are [those] that your parents taught you … white wine [with] white meat, red wine [with] red meat. Although traditional, you really can’t go wrong there.” True. But what do you pull from the cellar when dining on Chinese food? I don’t want to get anyone into trouble, least of all myself. But, maybe those old food-anddrink-pairing rules ought to be broken. Maybe we should just call them guidelines instead.
32 // September 2012
Every drink (wine, beer or spirits) and food has personality — so experiment. Your own palate will tell you whether or not a match is made in heaven. At the end of the day, neither hearts nor picture frames will be strewn in shattered pieces on the floor. Tell me: what are your own memorable or most regretful pairings? This food-and-drink-pairing list is by no means exhaustive. There are hundreds of grape varieties, beer styles, spirits and cocktails all over the world, and many more possible pairing combinations. Get out there and try some! If it grows together, it goes together. This little tidbit will work well for you as long as you have a choice of drinks. James Oliver Cury of Epicurious.com suggests, “Many people think if you’re having Mexican food, it’s a safe bet that a Mexican beer will pair well. The truth is most restaurants offer only a small selection of beers, and mostly because ... [thoseare the brands that] people are used to seeing on a menu.” That is, the one Mexican beer on the menu can’t possibly go with all Mexican food.
Check the weight. Is the dish light and delicate or rich and creamy? A basic green salad will collapse under a robust red wine. Try pairing it with a chilled glass of Grüner Veltliner instead.
Complement and contrast. If you know the ingredients that make up the dish, then you’re already ahead of the game. Focus on the most pronounced flavour. For instance, Sauvignon Blanc or India Pale Ale will stand up well to a creamy pasta sauce. They’re also scrumptious with citrus-zest-encrusted fish. Sparkling darlings and sweet treats. Sparkling wine — Champagne, Cava, Prosecco and the like — make easy matches to pretty much any kind of food. Sparklers aren’t overbearing sorts because they possess just the right amount of acidity to enhance the flavour of most dishes. Icewines are equally forgiving. Just remember one imperative: the Icewine should always be sweeter than the food.
appetizers white grapes
Albariño – Spanish tapas; Chilean
empanadas Albillo – oysters; plantain chips Catarratto – smoked fish; grilled octopus Chardonnay (Champagne) – grilled seafood; cocktail sausages; oysters Chardonnay (oaked) – toasted nuts; mixed olives Chardonnay (unoaked) – crab cakes; zucchini salad; scallops carpaccio Chenin Blanc – butternut squash soup; grilled calamari Galestro – grilled shrimp; vegetable platter Gewürztraminer – smoked salmon; foie gras Glera (Prosecco) – stuffed mushrooms; tomato bruschetta Godello – grilled scallops; chef’s salad Greco di Tufo – fried calamari; Caprese salad Macabeo – bouillabaisse; grilled shrimp Melon de Bourgogne
(Muscadet) – artichokes in vinai-
grette; oysters
Palomino (Fino sherry) – lob-
ster bisque; consommé
Parellada (Cava) – cheese tart;
shrimp salad
Pinot Grigio – prosciutto;
Greek salad
Sauvignon Blanc – oysters;
seafood salad
Seyval Blanc – steamed mussels;
charcuterie Verdejo – crudité of vegetables; mixed olives Verdicchio – crab cakes; sushi Vermentino – tomato bruschetta; mixed fried seafood
red grapes
Agiorgitiko –
grilled octopus; olives; roast beef tapas Alicante – chicken liver–stuffed mushroom caps Cabernet Franc (rosé)
– Niçoise salad; grilled octopus Dolcetto – charcuterie; Spanish tapas
My favourite kind of pairing is when there is a “dance” of flavours on the tongue — that is to say, a succession of complementary flavours that appear and disappear with each bite. That’s really fantastic. Mirella Amato, Beerology, beer-tasting sessions and workshops in Toronto
Gamay (rosé) – cheese
fondue; charcuterie plate
Grenache (rosé) – smoked
salmon; antipasto plate
Touriga Nacional – aged
cheese and crackers
beer
Brown Ale – smoked salmon canapés; French onion soup; leafy green salad dressed with oil and vinegar dressing Imperial Stout – oysters on the half shell; cocktail onions on crackers Pilsner – potato soup; Caesar salad
spirits
Absinthe – green
leaf salad with Gorgonzola dressing; oysters Rockefeller Arak – hummus and pita chips Grappa – oysters; chestnut soup Scotch – smoked salmon; tuna tartare Vodka – prosciutto-wrapped scallops; caviar; oysters; cured-meat trays
I often say that if everyone possessed the same taste, then there would only be one wine, and there would be no reason for food and drink pairings. Kler-Yann Bouteiller, sommelier
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mains
white grapes
Aidini – spicy chicken satay;
pork sausage Albana – pasta in alfredo sauce; frittata Albariño – chicken tikka masala; penne with vodka Albillo – roast chicken; grilled salmon Aligoté – raclette; Dungeness crab Amigne – chicken terrine; foie gras Assyrtiko – herb-crusted fish; grilled lamb Bianco di Custoza – steamed fresh halibut; pasta in a light cream sauce Cabernet Franc (rosé) – chicken stir-fry; roast duck with maple sauce Chardonnay (oaked) – seafood with butter sauce; chicken à la king; veal piccata Chardonnay (unoaked) – braised pork and onions; spaghetti with shrimp Cortese (Gavi) – orecchiette pasta with pistachio pesto; lemon and shrimp risotto Erbaluce – lemon risotto; pasta in marinara sauce Falerio – sautéed shrimp; pasta alfredo Fiano – grilled chicken; salt cod with sautéed leeks Frascati – lobster pasta; tuna sandwich French Colombard – duck confit; roast beef; sushi Friulano – veal roast; grilled veal chops Gamay (rosé) – chicken Kiev; grilled lamb chops Garganega (Soave) – ricotta-filled ravioli; British fish pie Gewürztraminer – roasted ham with sauerkraut; chicken and coconut milk curry Grecanico Dorato – macaroni and cheese; chicken alfredo Grechetto – Thai chicken stir-fry; chicken cacciatore Grenache (rosé) – grilled seafood; hamburgers; spicy barbecued ribs
34 // September 2012
Grüner Veltliner – cold tofu noo-
dles in peanut sauce; pickled herring
Inzolia – grilled sea bass;
lemon risotto
Kerner – pad thai; spaghetti with
clam sauce
Lambrusco (rosé) – mushroom
risotto; grilled chicken Pecorino – fish tacos; veal scaloppine Pigato – spaghetti with pesto; coconut-curried shrimp Pinot Blanc – frittata; blackened red fish Pinot Gris – grilled quail; mu shu pork Pinot Noir (rosé) – ham-topped pizza; grilled steak; veal roast Riesling – smoked fish; pork; clams, mussels; sashimi; baked ham; roast pork Ribolla – pasta with roasted eggplant and goat cheese; grilled grouper Rolle – mixed fried fish; grilled sea bass Sauvignon Blanc – baked ham; falafels Savagnin – chicken curry; tripe sausage Sémillon – grilled trout; pork spareribs Torbato – roast chicken; roast chicken sandwich Torrontés –herb-encrusted salmon; Thai shrimp and rice Trebbiano (Orvieto) – grilled chicken; fish and chips Verdicchio – fish tacos; pasta with garlic and oil Vernaccia – tuna carpaccio; gnocchi with olive oil, Swiss chard and garlic Vidal – veal piccata; lobster thermidor Viognier – chicken satay; pumpkin pasta
If you want to talk “classic” pairings, then you must, to my mind, go to where food and beverage have evolved side by side. So, for example, single malt and haggis, best bitter and cheddar cheese, weissbier and weisswurst, aquavit and smoked fish. Stephen Beaumont, beer and spirits writer and co-author with Tim Webb of the new World Atlas of Beer
I love to have fun with food pairing, and one of the goals in my work is to encourage people to be adventurous and playful when exploring beer. Mirella Amato, Beerology, beertasting sessions and workshops in Toronto
red grapes
Aglianico – grilled wild boar; veal stew
A classic match: Highland Park 12 with pepper maple-glazed smoked salmon, or the Macallan 15 with braised scallops. Marc Laverdiere, brand ambassador for Highland Park, The Macallan and Famous Grouse
Baga (sparkling) – roast suckling pig; grilled sardines Barbarossa – hamburgers; grilled spareribs Barbera – roast duck with plum sauce; osso buco; shaved-truffle risotto Bardolino – ham and vegetable omelette; mushroom pizza Bonarda – beef pot roast; macaroni and cheese Brunello (Sangiovese) – grilled lamb chops; beef carpaccio Cabernet Franc – beef tartare; Cornish game hen Cabernet Sauvignon – steak au poivre; sautéed kidneys Cabernet Severny – grilled ribeye; baked salmon Carignan – beef stew; braised veal tongue Carmenère – Chilean corn and meat pie; grilled duck breasts Charbono – grilled Italian sausage; rack of lamb Corvina (Amarone) – risotto; grilled shrimp Dolcetto – roasted game birds; anchovies in green sauce Freisa – pork tenderloin with orange sauce; pasta in tomato-cream sauce Gaglioppo – roast beef; beef lasagna Gamay (Beaujolais) – pork belly and lentils; bison burger Grenache – pizza topped with black olives; baked sausages Grignolino – pizza Margherita; rabbit meat–filled ravioli Limnio – roast lamb; fish and chips Lledoner Pelut – osso buco; Spanish tapas Kadarka – Hungarian goulash; roast boar Malbec – grilled sausages; beef teriyaki Mencía – roast venison; spaghetti alla carbonara Merlot – braised chicken; roast duck; liver; venison Monica – grilled tuna steaks; pasta in Bolognese sauce Montepulciano – meat lasagna; tandoori chicken Mourvèdre – venison stew; pork roast
My favourite is retsina with deep-fried cod, beets and beet greens dressed in oil and vinegar, and skordalia. The retsina is astringent and earthy, and cuts through the fattiness. Effy Ligris, Kalikori Olive Oil Nebbiolo (Barolo/Barbaresco) –
pasta with shaved truffles; duck confit; sautéed calf liver; grilled beef ribs Nero d’Avola – grilled lamb; pizza topped with black olives Petite Sirah – hamburgers; steak and kidney pie Petit Verdot – grilled pork spareribs; roast duck Pinot Noir – roast rabbit and partridge; charcuterie; roast beef; grilled duck Rossese – seafood, chicken, meat Sangiovese (Chianti) – tomatobased pasta sauce; beef lasagna; grilled pork Saperavi – roasted pork ribs; shepherd’s pie Shiraz/Syrah – braised chicken; chili; goose; peppercorn steak Tannat – Hungarian meatballs; curried goat Tarrango – grilled beef tenderloin; roast pork sandwich Tempranillo – grilled lamb; moussaka Zinfandel – grilled hamburgers; cioppino Zweigelt – veal schnitzel; Hungarian goulash
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mains beer
spirits
Pisco – ceviche
Rye – roast turkey Scotch – apricot
chicken
Tennessee
whisky – pork
chops
Tequila – chicken
in red chili sauce
Amber Ale – beef enchilada; barbecued ribs Belgian Dubbel – slowroasted pork; beef stew Bitter – fish and chips; lamb curry Brown Ale – roast pork; hamburgers Cider – sautéed pork belly; venison chili Cream or Blonde Ale – roast chicken; slow-baked salmon India Pale Ale – grilled salmon; fried chicken Lager – Japanese sushi; spicy blackened fish Märzen – chicken cordon bleu; pork rouladen Pilsner – onion quesadilla; fish and chips Porter – beef stew; shepherd’s pie Schwarzbier – hamburgers; cheese fondue Scotch Ale – pork tenderloin; herb-marinated chicken breast
Most unusual pairing is horse heart tartare, frites, and “Hay-onaise” paired with a Hibiscus Ale from Dieu du Ciel brewery. Had it at DNA in Montreal ... Derek’s the man! Jesse Vergen, executive chef at Saint John Ale House and Smoking Pig BBQ
For a long time now, a classic pairing has hinged on regional traditions and practices (lamb and Cabernet Sauvignon, oysters and Muscadet, cheese plate and red wine). Yet, are these pairings always justified? I don’t believe so. Kler-Yann Bouteiller, sommelier
36 // September 2012
One of the oddest sounding but most remarkable pairings I have come across is Champagne and fish and chips. Odd because of their disparities of where they sit on the socio-economic scale, but absolutely marvellous in the way they go together. Stephen Beaumont, beer and spirits writer and co-author with Tim Webb of the New World Atlas of Beer
sides red grapes
Charbono – roasted fennel;
crispy baked potatoes
Cinsault – artichoke hearts
gratin; grilled vegetables Dolcetto – grilled asparagus and mushrooms; herb-scented rice Lagrein – braised cabbage with speck; prosciutto dumplings Pinot Noir – sautéed mushrooms; green lentils in quinoa Shiraz/Syrah – ratatouille; red beans and rice
At Casa Sauza, pairing is all about correct balance. For me, a deep understanding of the food and drink — not just the taste, character, and notes, but also the talent and imagination that went into them — will bring magic to the pairing.
Jorge Isaac Soria Sánchez, chef at Casa Sauza, Sauza Tequila
white grapes Chardonnay (Cham-
pagne) – Chinese fried rice; sautéed mushrooms Garganega – eggplant fritters; roasted vegetables Pinot Noir (rosé) – grilled asparagus; sweetpotato purée Roussette – cheese soufflé; steamed crab Sauvignon Blanc – asparagus quiche; stir-fried egg noodles Sylvaner – sautéed sweet peas; braised carrots Trebbiano – Brussels sprouts sautéed in pancetta and olive oil; fennel-stuffed tomatoes
beer
Amber Ale – garlic baked potatoes; sautéed baby vegetables Brown Ale – grilled mushrooms; sautéed spinach and garlic Porter – creamy mashed potatoes; grilled vegetables Stout – grilled asparagus; french fries
The most unusual food and beverage combinations I have experienced would be Canadian Club whisky with marshmallows and Canadian Club 12 Year Classic with toffee apples. Tish Harcus, brand ambassador for Canadian Club
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beer
Ale – blue
cheese; cheddar
Barley wine
– fruitcake; gingerbread Lambic – lemon soufflé; fruit salad Porter – cheesecake; chocolate cake
Wheat Beer
– Gruyère; goat cheese
white grapes
Azsú (Tokaji) –
apricot tart; blue cheese
red grapes
Gewürztraminer Grenache (fortified) – chocolate-
– Muenster cheese; cherry cheesecake
covered cherries; blue cheese Malvasia (Madeira) – hazelnut torte; blue cheese Late Harvest Riesling – custard Mammolo – pecorino cheese; tarts; chocolate Taleggio cheese mousse cake Mavrodaphne – mincemeat pies; vanilla ice cream Moscato – fruittopped cheesecake; Nebbiolo (Barolo/Barbaresco) mille feuille pastry – aged cheese; fontina cheese Pedro Ximénez Port – Stilton cheese; dark chocolate truffles (sherry) – vanilla ice cream; salty cheese and dried figs Sauternes – blue cheese; crème brûlée Vidal (Icewine) – bittersweet chocolate truffle cake; apple and custard tart
spirits
Armagnac – flourless
chocolate cake; dulce de leche Bourbon – dark chocolate cake; pecan pie Cognac – aged Gouda; dark chocolate Gin – blue cheese; butter tarts Irish whiskey – goat cheese; chocolate mousse Rum – mascarpone cheese; pear cake Scotch – vanilla ice cream and black pepper; fresh fruit •
desserts Golden Pheasant LCBO# 536789 500ml bottle, $ 2.45; Now on LTO, retailing at $ 2.30 from July 22 - August 18 *Correction
38 // September 2012 B.Cojocura1.indd 1
7/4/12 9:06 AM
s z
the baconists are coming
sizzle by carolyn evans-hammond
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Absolutely, my grandpa made the best bacon ever. He would melt a bit of salt pork
in a frying pan, slap two-inch pieces of bacon in a single layer — salting it, pressing it flat and flipping it till it was sizzlingly crisp — then put the pieces on a plate lined with paper towel for the fam to grab on the go. Bacon never tasted so good. My cousins and I would pluck pieces on the fly as we skirted off to do what kids do: dig for worms, bike to the river, step on frogs with bare feet and marvel at the way the slime oozed up between our toes. (Okay, I only did this last bit once. And it was an accident.) But bacon has gone all haute cuisine now. It’s no longer just a good lick of salty fat-streaked meat all gristly good. It’s now fancified. Gourmetized. Everything but eroticized. Remember when Cadbury famously asked women, “Sex or chocolate?” and more than half said chocolate? Sad, I know; you didn’t want me to remind you, did you. But imagine what the “sex or bacon?” survey would yield. Pork powerhouses, take note: PR opportunity waiting to happen. Just don’t count me in; I wouldn’t answer pork. Speaking of chocolate and bacon, when I posted on Facebook that I was writing this piece, my FB friends went hog-wild — 61 comments, 33 “likes” and two “shares” ensued in short order. There were comments about bacon beer, neighbours mixing bacon fat with mayo and storing it in the fridge for faux BLTs, and yes, bacon and chocolat. “My 17-year-old daughter works at an organic chocolate shop called Delight [805 Queen Street West in Toronto]. They make bacon bark,” posted Lisa Leyes. “It is so delicious. I bought it at Christmastime and gave it to the men in my life. I called it ‘boy chocolate’ ... Picture decadent handmade, organic chocolate with smoky, salty, crunchy bits in it. Yum! I bet that if I put bacon in my bra my husband would come running.” Her husband is one of Canada’s top photographers, Tim Leyes, who shoots such celebrities as queen-of-food-porn Nigella Lawson when she’s in town. In response to Lisa’s comment, Ken Mayeaux, from Annapolis, MD, wrote: “@Lisa, you might be onto something. One of my dear friends works for Maidenform. I will share your idea with her. LOL.” To which Lisa replied, “Uh, wait! I only want my husband to want MY bacon. You may confuse him.” And on it went. Although bacon-scented lingerie has not yet hit shelves (bless), it really is streaking every facet of food and drink culture — and of course this includes dessert. (More on drinks later.)
40 // September 2012
A maple bacon doughnut is an utterly delicious gem I came across the other day. Balancing sweet and salty, all soft and
gooey-fresh inside a light crust of maple glaze and topped with a crispy wee slice of bacon? Magic. I was at the launch of the Food Network’s latest show World’s Weirdest Restaurants, and I happened to be seated beside Ms Doughnut Baker herself, Ashley Jacot De Boinod — a walking, talking Betty Boop with attitude. Former pastry chef at Buca, Ashley makes these wonders at her new commercial kitchen called Glory Hole Doughnuts in Toronto’s Kensington Market. At this stage, her doughnuts are available only at places such as Burger Bar and Thor Espresso Bar. But stay tuned; she’s scouting retail locations. Krispy Kreme? No match. Also worth a taste is double-smoked bacon and maple ice cream. Sure, the Fat Duck — that three-Michelin-starred restaurant in the UK known for its avant-garde menu — was the first to famously combine pork and frozen custard with its bacon-and-egg ice cream a few years ago. I’ve tried it; it’s good. The Canadian version is better, though. Dip into some at Lardon restaurant in Toronto. It’s surprising. On the drink front, bacon-infused vodka has taken hold. A brand of this concoction called Bakon is wildly popular in the United States, and it’s now trickling its way into Canada. For what, you ask, would you use bacon-infused vodka? Why, bacontinis of course. (Yes, that’s a bacon martini.) Apparently, bacontinis have been hot in New York City, Los Angeles and Las Vegas for some time now. To make one, here’s what you do. To start, you’ll need either a bottle of Bakon vodka or to make the infusion yourself. To do so, soak strips of cooked bacon in a bottle of vodka, straining off the fat. It’s ready when the vodka is filmy and opaque (yes — it, too, makes me shudder). To make the martini, strain the stuff over ice into a martini glass, garnished with a piece of bacon. I haven’t brought myself to try one yet, so can’t comment. But if the bacontini sounds appealing to you, here are a few more recipes to ponder, courtesy of Bakon.
Bacon is no longer just a good lick of salty fat-streaked meat all gristly good. It’s now fancified. Gourmetized. Everything but eroticized.
bakon mary
1 1/2 oz Bakon vodka Tomato juice 1 dash each of celery salt and ground black pepper 2–4 dashes each of Worcestershire sauce and Tabasco Combine in a cocktail shaker and shake with ice. Strain and pour into a salt-rimmed pint glass. Garnish with a celery stalk and your favourite pickled vegetables.
bakon chocolate martini
1 part Bakon vodka 1 part chocolate liqueur A splash of cream Combine in a cocktail shaker and shake with ice. Strain and pour into a sugar-rimmed martini glass.
pizza shot Tastes just like a slice of Hawaiian-style pizza (apparently). Created by Joe Couden at the Grizzled Wizard in Seattle.
1 1/2 parts Bakon vodka 1 part tomato juice 1 part pineapple juice 1 dash each of salt and oregano Serve in a shot glass. No need to chill.
Bakon and Egg Martini 1 part Bakon vodka 3 hard-boiled quail eggs Chill and serve in a martini glass.
the blt martini Winning recipe from the Palm Springs Cocktail Challenge. Created by Scot Newell, the senior bartender at Georgie’s Alibi in Fort Lauderdale, FL.
3 parts Bakon vodka 1 part tomato juice Tomato foam (below) Crushed seasoned croutons 1 romaine “spear” (a small leaf from the centre of a head of romaine) 2 cherry tomatoes
tomato foam
2–3 large tomatoes White pepper, white Worcestershire sauce, sea salt and olive oil, to taste 2–3 tsp lecithin (a soy-based thickening agent) To make the Tomato Foam, make fresh tomato juice by chopping the tomatoes and straining through a sieve or cheesecloth. Add the pepper, Worcestershire, salt and oil. (Can be made several days ahead and kept chilled.) Just before using the foam, add lecithin and process in a blender or food processor. The foam will rise to the top, and the lecithin will help to hold the foam together. In a cocktail shaker filled with ice, combine the vodka and tomato juice. Shake well and strain into a chilled martini glass. Spoon on a thick layer of the tomato foam as a float. Sprinkle crushed seasoned croutons on top of the foam. Skewer a long toothpick with a cherry tomato, a romaine spear and another cherry tomato. Rest the skewer on the rim of the glass and serve. •
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The drive down the I-40 from Raleigh, the capital of North Carolina, southeast to the historic port city of Wilmington is both picturesque and rather bemusing. Towering pines, oaks and beech trees line the roadside providing copious natural beauty. Other towering things lining the roadside offer entertainment in the form of numerous billboards, which seem to coexist peacefully among the foliage and which sport some unintentionally funny messages.
True Grit
A Southern Ramble
I might have driven myself off the road, or into another vehicle, or into the local jail while taking this all in, making my already short vacation even shorter. Lucky for me, I wasn’t driving. As it turns out, Tidings has a few hundred subscribers in the good ol’ you-ess-of-ay. My friend Candace and her hubby, Doug, are two of them. They’d packed their belongings and dog and relocated to the town of Cary, a suburb of Raleigh, not that long ago, and I figured, hey, why not pop down for a visit, take it easy, buy some stuff cheap and check out the booze ’n grub scene in the American South. It didn’t hurt that Doug is an Ontario-trained chef and recently set up his own personalchef business (athymetosavor.com). “I’d call Southern food ‘comfort food’ in that it’s pretty rich,” Doug explains, when asked to define Southern cuisine. “Think along the lines of Southern fried chicken, mashed potatoes with cream gravy, corn biscuits and hushpuppies and a variety of greens. And of course, barbecue pork — especially in the southeastern states — and barbecue beef in the Southwest.” I kind of zoned out after he mentioned hushpuppies, thinking to myself, They actually eat shoes down here? I wasn’t so much surprised that shoes could be eaten as I was about such gastronomic splurging given the state of the economy. I mean, shoes are pricey. Plus, what do you match with shoes? Barefoot wines?
42 // September 2012
As it turns out, hushpuppies are a sort of deep-fried cornmeal dough ball, and “The Triangle” (the area bounded by Raleigh, Durham and Chapel Hill) has been rather insulated from the brunt of the economic downturn due to the high number of big-time employers in the area. So I guessed they actually could afford to eat shoes, if so inclined. Back on the subject of barbecue, it should be pointed out that a) as a cooking style, it was invented in the Carolinas in the early days of the USA, b) it’s a local source of borderline rabid pride and c) it’s not something you “go to.” “You eat barbecue, you don’t go to a barbecue,” Doug slowly revealed. “No, you go to a cook-out,” Candace clarified. It was a lightbulb moment though I treaded gingerly lest some claymore of misunderstanding lay buried under the topsoil covering of what I knew deep inside was solid bedrock logic. “So,” I tiptoed, “you could go to a cook-out … and eat barbecue … right?” I was starting to sweat just a bit. “Whatever,” Candace yawned, as clearly unimpressed with my scalpel-sharp powers of deduction as she was with my nimble mastery of the regional patois. Doug at least had the common decency to flash her a “Honey, he’s our guest. Be nice” hairy eyeball.
“Jesus, saviour of the world!” preaches one, immediately followed by another one enticing motorists to visit “Adam and Eve Lingerie and Novelties.” Then there’s the one for Burger King prescribing its signature Whopper as “Just What the Doctor Ordered!” Really? Which doctor?
ts
by tod stewart
Crushed (sort of ) by Candace’s dumbing down of my (obviously intimidating) intellect, but nonetheless pleased with myself for unravelling that gastro-linguistic Mobius, I proceeded to probe and pry, gadfly-like, in the search of further veiled verities. “The cooking techniques I was taught in Ontario are primarily the same as those in the South, except for the heavy use of oil and lard for frying and the large amounts of cream and butter. And another thing that is different is the ingredients.” Doug went on to cite collard greens (cooked similarly to spinach, usually with the addition of onions and garlic), okra (typically dipped in buttermilk and egg and coated in cornmeal prior to frying), crayfish — “crawdads down here” — and, of course, grits. (More on those later …) We pulled into Wilmington, ready to do some sightseeing and then grab a bite. “Are you guys hungry?” Candace asked politely, her slight sway suggesting late-stage hypoglycemia. Now, Candace, being the extremely thoughtful individual that she is, had stocked my room at their place with a number of things she knew would appeal to me. Like a bottle of red wine along with glass and corkscrew, as well as miniatures of practically every man-grooming appurtenance I’d ever seen (and a few I hadn’t), plus a couple of respected journals including
Bon Appétit and Men’s Health. The first was filled, predictably, with boring recipes and poncey diatribes about wines and things. Really, who cares? Men’s Health, however, is more or less a Cosmopolitan for guys and was packed with riveting essays like “Dress for Hotter Sex — Tonight!,” “Speak Her Sex Language” and “Cool New Sex Secrets!” Plus cooking tips such as “Power Up Your Diet … for More Sex!” (that last bit wasn’t there — but it was implied) and “Grill the Perfect Steak … and Have Sex with It!” (Okay, I totally made that one up.)
Anyway, there was one article that purported to tell guys what women “really mean” when they say things. For instance, “I’m fine” in chickspeak really means “I’m totally not fine,” and “Are you coming to my family’s party?” means “You’re coming to my family’s party.” “Buzz off, creep” actually means “Buzz off, creep.” But apparently “Are you hungry?” means “I’m starving. Feed me.” I’m a quick study, so knowing now that Candace was, in fact, starving, we slipped into Elijah’s Restaurant on the banks of the Cape Fear River for lunch. I opted for the blackened catfish special and wasn’t disappointed. We all had a round of iced tea, which seemed to be the unofficial state drink. The stuff is ubiquitous, and, unlike here in Canada, it’s almost always served unsweetened. The temperature and humidity by this time were really starting to build, so after a quick sightseeing tour on foot we headed north to Wrightsville Beach. But not before checking into a local winery. In spite of many things suggesting they shouldn’t be there (heat, humidity, rich soil, etc.), wineries appear to be thriving in North Carolina. Many used to be tobacco farms that, under pressure from the anti-smoking lobby, cashed in one vice for another. Some in the north and west of the state are actually growing Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon and the like. Tom Terwilliger of the Triangle Wine Company (a retailer not far from Candace and Doug’s) informed me that Cabernet Franc and Viognier are looking particularly promising. Other wineries use native grapes of the Muscadine species. While I didn’t have the chance to sample any Muscadine-based wines, Doug suggested, somewhat obliquely, that perhaps the most pleasurable way of enjoying them was to not taste them. The winery we visited, the Noni Bacca Winery, doesn’t even bother with local fruit, opting instead to import grapes or juice from other states and countries. Tucked into a shopping mall and resembling some of the ferment-your-owns we see in Ontario, Noni Bacca is owned by Toni and Ken Incorvaia (Ken, interest-
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and Wine for a few bottles to match. Back home Doug Cajunspiced the fish and served sautéed shrimp with cheese and onion grits. The dish was magic with both the 2010 Selection Ott Les Domaniers Côtes de Provence rosé and a 2009 Treana White (a California blend of Marsanne and Viognier). “Shrimp and grits is a traditional low-country staple,” Doug pointed out, the “low country” being the Carolina and Georgian coastlands. “And grits are pretty much the french fries of the south.” Call it what you will: grits in the South, polenta in Italy. It’s all just cornmeal. “It comes in a variety of colours and degrees of coarseness and is commonly eaten for breakfast. There are instant grits, too. But no self-respecting southerner would use that … or at least be caught using it.” The next few days were spent rather idyllically. And cheaply. For those who are not regular cross-border shoppers, prepare yourself for a “kid in a candy store” experience. Prices, combined with hospitable folks, good food and a plethora of sites and activities, make a ramble through North Carolina — and the American South in general — well worth your time. You’ll be greeted by complete strangers with a friendly “Hah, howya deewin’?” To which the proper response is “Deewin’ fine … How you deewin’?” •
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ingly enough, spent a large part of his life in Canada) and typically sources from California or Italy. Their wines have picked up a bevy of medals, and tasting through a flight of six reds — including the intriguing “Cucidati” that’s designed to marry particularly well with chocolate — showed that Ken knew his way around a fermentation tank. All were clean, balanced and supple. A little more concentration and weight would have helped out, though the wines certainly weren’t shy in the alcohol department. It should probably be noted at this point that even though the wines of North Carolina have not quite hit “cult” status, the same is not true of the beer being produced. While an in-depth look at this industry is beyond this scope of the story, the brew scene is certainly worth exploring if you happen to be in the state. I was fortunate enough to taste a range of samples from the Carolina Brewery’s Chapel Hill location and was extremely impressed. Now, with “beach time” running out, we hightailed to the coast and managed to grab a few hours of sun and surf. As the lithe bodies of scantily clad UNC students cavorted around me I made a mental note to heed the advice of Men’s Health (my new bible) and “Get Ripped and Ready Now! For Sex!” (Sorry about the last bit. Had to add it.) Before leaving Wrightsville Beach we hit Motts Channel Seafood for some fresh mahi-mahi and shrimp, and Lighthouse Beer
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muy pequeña\\
There is a lot to be said about being small. Uruguay is the second smallest country of South America, yet it ranks fourth in terms of wine production (behind Chile, Argentina and Brazil). Located within the band of the southern hemisphere that is compatible with vine-growing, its climate is obviously favourable to viticulture, albeit quite humid; rot and mildew can be a problem. It is interesting to note that almost all the wine produced by its northern neighbour, Brazil, comes from the region near their common border but, curiously, it is not there that Uruguay produces most of its wine. The vineyards are instead concentrated in the south, near the Rio de la Plata (Canelones, San José, Florida and Montevideo departments). Less important vineyards are found along the Uruguay River on the western border with Argentina. Only the small Rivera sector merges with Brazil’s Fronteira, but excellent wines are made there and exported by Bodegas Carrau. Under Spanish influence for a long time, Uruguayans have been growing varieties of the same origin, aimed at local consumption. That changed in the 1970s when a conscious effort was launched to improve the quality and develop the export market. It was then that Tannat, originating from around Madiran in the south west of France, became the emblematic and most successful grape of Uruguay, a unique situation in the wine world. Today, the other varieties that produce the best results are also of French origin; they are for the most part Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Winemaking practices have also evolved over the last 40 years; some wineries are as modern as in any other part of the world, while others remain more traditional. Investments made by well-established names like Bernard Magrez of Bordeaux tend to confirm the potential of the country. Canadians generally don’t enjoy a wide choice of Uruguayan wines at this time, but the stage has been set for them to shine on the international competitive wine market in the near future.
discovery
by Gilles Bois
Pisano RPF Tannat 2006, Canelones ($21) This Reserva Personal de la Familia is a dark wine with a purplish contour. We recognize the Tannat’s typical nose of blackberry, dark plum, earthy notes, leather and a little spice. It develops a pleasant, delicately floral scent in the glass. The initial taste is fruity with adequate acidity. Texture is very thick, dense and chewy. The massive but finely grained tannins coat the mouth and cling to the tongue. The finish is long and only slightly astringent. Aging potential is estimated at an additional 8 to10 years. Clearly a food wine; cassoulet or traditional French-Canadian dishes immediately come to mind.
Juanico Don Pascual Reserve Tannat 2011, Canelones ($13.50) A modern-style red, easier to approach. Deep purple colour with a pleasant nose of ripe raspberry and blackberry, black plum, earthy mushrooms and noticeable oak (vanilla, pastry notes). Ripe, fruity taste, velvety texture. Mellow and warm on the tongue, there is only a tad of bitterness in the finish. Ready to drink, it can easily be mistaken for an Argentinian Malbec or a dry red from the Douro Valley. •
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the mav notes\\ 87 K1 Arneis 2009, Adelaide Hills, Australia ($21) An uncommon and interesting varietal. Pale silver-yellow with a delicate but complex nose of guava, banana, passion fruit and pineapple. Medium-bodied; lets its Italian heritage show in the balance of slight bitterness and acidity. More fruit in the mouth: lime, pear, and even a hint of coconut, but stays dry. Very versatile food wine. (RL)*
88 Monte del Frá Bardolino 2010, Veneto, Italy ($13) Bardolino is an ideal summer red, best served lightly chilled. Purple-ruby in colour with a spicy, peppery, cherry nose and a floral grace note — not unlike a Beaujolais. It’s dry and firm and made from a blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Sangiovese grapes. It has enough acidity to match fish and light meats. (TA)
91 Zorzal Wines Pinot Noir Reserve 2009, Mendoza, Argentina ($25)
Now this is something! Aromas of black cherry, raspberry, a riot of spices, cloves, woodsmoke and toasty vanilla-oak stylings. Quite structured on the palate; the red fruits are joined by touches of blueberry and bramble with mocha-vanilla spice all delivered on a firm tannic backbone. Could cellar for a few years to let everything come into harmony. (RV)
91 Colaneri Coraggioso Amoroso Amarone 2009, Niagara ($50)
87 Rosehall Run Chardonnay Sur Lie 2010, Prince Edward County ($15) The 2010 Sur Lie is a smooth and easy-drinking white with a profile of banana, green apple, lemon and minerals. Light to medium body; the acid is soft and the finish lengthy. Pair it with grilled scallops drizzled with a basil/chili oil or medium cheddar. (ES)
Colaneri’s heavy hitter was made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes that were dried for 60-plus days and then aged in new barrels for 27 months. Full bodied, certainly, it offers wall-to-wall cherries in every form: Bing, morello, kirsch and black. Add in plums, vanilla, spice, a concentrated mid-palate and excellent length, and you have one of Ontario’s most interesting wines. Drink it over the next 5 years. (ES)
92 Lamblin Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir 2005, Burgundy, France ($46)
Medium yellow/gold. Powerful aromas of ripe apple, olive and tangerine are apparent well outside the glass. Unoaked but full-bodied and buttery, with flavours of pineapple, peaches, and strawberry preserves. Peaking now; will plateau for many years. (RL)*
94 Janoueix 20 Mille 2005, Bordeaux Supérieur, France ($76)
Do NOT open this wine now — you would be committing infanticide. Purple red, clear but so dense it is opaque. Nose of strawberries, light molasses, tea, tobacco and leather. Packed with cassis and blackberries, it is presently too tannic and unharmonious — the score is based on potential. (RL)*
46 // September 2012
Spread in a mĂŠlange on a slice of bread makes the bread taste better than if it were spread with just one or the other.
Food fusion’s most dramatic manifestation, as we all know, is the coming together of a dollop of peanut butter with a dollop of jam.
Togethe by duncan holmes
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The coming together of conceptually far-apart foods and flavours can quite often be food triumphs. Ketchup with fries, chutney with a nice curry, mint sauce with lamb, spicy heat (not to mention creamy mayo) with just about anything. Each one’s a fusion of sorts. But the bigger fusion thing is when foods of different cultures come together, which happens a lot — and keeps on happening, probably hastened by our shrinking world. It’s when good tastes and good ideas from distant lands arrive with the most recent 747 (or whatever) and get integrated into a new scene. Food cultures get together, the transported food culture often becoming a permanent part of the adopted culture. Tex-Mex? A cross-border natural. And we know that wraps of all kinds uniquely wrap the globe. They’re everywhere, neatly enclosing the myriad tastes and textures wherever a culinary “container” is required. This must’ve been some crossover somewhere. On Canada’s West Coast, across the pond from Japan, is where the California roll was born, the creation of Vancouver meister Tojo. Don’t even begin to start adding up the miles involved in all of that. As with his BC roll, the California quickly became a staple. (And while we’re on the topic of Japan seamlessly blending in on the coast, who would have thought that Vancouver kids would one day snack on nori, i.e., seaweed, with all of its health benefits? In this case, Japan nicely aces out North American junk.) And how about this? Vancouver restaurateur Andrew Wong was out for dinner at a swishy French place one recent night and observed with his serving of beef bourguignon some very Asian-oriented black beans. He didn’t steal the recipe for his two Wild Rice restaurants but noted that they fused quite well. (Wong specializes in “modern Chinese cuisine”; see a couple of his recipes below.) Along the same lines, a new place called Caché, advertising that it “redefines classic French delights with a creative Asian twist,” has just opened in Vancouver’s Yaletown. Caché’s signature dishes include a black tea–smoked duck breast salad (using the traditional Zhangcha method) with arugula, lemon vin-
48 // September 2012
aigrette, onion jam, wine-soaked raisins and candied walnut; and on the other end, foie gras crème brûleé, topped with flying-fish caviar and served with a frisée salad and white truffle vinaigrette. Wong of Wild Rice says that Vancouver is all fusion. It’s also a city where everything old is new again. The creative, innovative types seem to be going back to a time when everything was local. They’re making the most of what’s available right in the city’s backyard and discovering what can be done with it. “Your neighbour had beef, goats — so that would be what you ate,” he said. “You couldn’t go out on Monday morning and get whatever you wanted. You got sturgeon at a certain point in the season. You had it fresh, then dried — nothing was wasted.” He recalled a time when Saturday was the family shopping day, which meant a trip to Chinatown to get close to the best food and the people who produced it. He still sources his protein from farmers he knows. Similarly, in her handsome, newly launched East Meets West book — the cover of which juxtaposes a loaded fork and a loaded pair of chopsticks — Stephanie Yuen (the Vancouver Asian food guru) writes, “East-meets-West happens when chefs reach over to another ethnic kitchen counter and/or a grocery store to grab unfamiliar ingredients and create brand new flavours/dishes with them.” It would seem that just about anything goes. Certainly in Vancouver, the old days of always-the-same Cantonese tastes have often been replaced with foods that are much more exciting. Wong mused that yes, a cheese tray could very well end a meal of Asian fusions. And why not? The fusion fuse has been long ignited and will keep on burning.
longan emulsion, crispy shallots and wonton crisps
tuna tartare with
albacore
Serves 4
This is a recipe from Chef Todd Bright of Wild Rice in Vancouver.
300 g fresh albacore tuna, diced into small cubes (use only the firm flesh and make sure not to get any sinew) 2 tbsp finely chopped shallots 1 tbsp chiffonaded cilantro Zest of 1 lime 1 tsp sesame oil 2 tsp soy sauce 1 can longans or lychees* (12 fresh longans/lychees, peeled and seeded, can also be used instead of canned) 2 tbsp Shaoxing rice wine* 1 tsp chili oil 3 tbsp garlic powder 3 tbsp onion powder 3 tbsp rice flour 3 shallots, thinly sliced 1 pkg wonton wrappers 2 cups canola oil (for frying)
1. In a mixing bowl combine the tuna, shallots, cilantro, lime zest, sesame oil and soy sauce. Mix well. Set aside to let the flavours infuse for about 30 minutes in the fridge.
2. Remove the longans from their juice and drain. Place the longans in a blender with the rice wine, the chili oil and a pinch of salt. Blend until puréed and set aside.
3. In a separate bowl, mix together the garlic and onion powders and a pinch of salt with the
rice flour. Toss the sliced shallots in the rice-flour mixture. Shake in a sieve or strainer to rid excess flour and set aside. 4. Cut the wonton wrappers in half. 5. Heat the canola oil in a deep pot until about 325°F. Working in small batches, and using tongs, gently place the wonton pieces in the hot oil and fry until golden brown, making sure they don’t curl up. Remove from the oil and place on paper towels to drain. 6. Fry the shallots in the same hot oil, stirring them to ensure the pieces don’t stick. Once they have turned golden brown, remove from the oil and drain on paper towels. 7. Place the longan emulsion on the plate, mound the tuna tartare on top and sprinkle with crispy shallots. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 8. Serve with the wonton crisps.
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with avocado strips and japanese salsa verde
salmon tempura
sockeye
Serves 2 to 4
This recipe comes from Chef and Instructor Takashi Mizukami of the Dirty Apron Cooking School in Vancouver. It is included in Stephanie Yuen’s new book, East Meets West, Douglas and McIntyre, 2012.
1 ripe avocado 1 shiso leaf (available in Asian markets) 1 green onion, white and green parts, cut in ⅛-inch slices 30 g baby arugula ¼ cup peeled and diced English cucumber ¼ cup rice wine vinegar 1 tbsp shiro (“white”) soy sauce 5 tbsp olive oil 2 tsp grated ginger 300 g fresh sockeye salmon fillet, cut in 1 ¼-inch strips 1 tsp sea salt 8-inch-square piece Japanese nori, halved 1 egg yolk Ice water ½ cup sifted cake flour 3 cups vegetable oil, for deep-frying
50 // September 2012
1. Using a sharp knife, cut the avocado in half. Remove and discard the pit. Spoon flesh into a small re-sealable plastic bag. Seal the bag tightly.
2. Using your hand, mash and spread the avocado into a thin, even layer that fills up the entire bag. Freeze for at least 1 hour or until it’s completely solid.
3. To make the salsa verde, in a food processor, purée the shiso, green onions,
arugula and cucumber for 45 seconds. Add the vinegar and soy sauce and purée for another 45 seconds. 4. Transfer the mixture to a small bowl, then pour in the olive oil and whisk for 30 seconds. Add the ginger, mix gently and set aside. 5. Lightly sprinkle the salmon with sea salt on both sides. On a clean, dry work surface or a large cutting board, arrange nori with the long edge parallel to the counter. Overlap 4 slices of salmon in a line across each sheet, placing them about 1 inch from the bottom edge of the nori. Tightly fold the bottom edge of the nori over the salmon to envelop it, then continue rolling away from you to form a tight roll. 6. Repeat so that you have 2 rolls. Cut 2 large squares of plastic wrap. Set 1 roll on each sheet of plastic wrap and wrap tightly, twisting the ends to seal them. Refrigerate rolls for about 10 minutes. 7. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolk and ice water together, then stir in the flour and continue whisking for about 2 minutes, or until the batter is smooth. Set aside. 8. In a small pot, heat the vegetable oil to 325°F. Unwrap the rolls, dip them in the batter, then carefully place them in the oil and blanch for 25 to 30 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the rolls to a wire rack and allow to cool for 2 to 3 minutes. 9. Remove the bag of avocado from the freezer. Using a sharp knife, cut through the bag to create three equal strips, each 1 inch wide. 10. Remove and discard the plastic bag. Arrange avocado strips on a serving platter as a garnish. 11. Drizzle 1 tbsp salsa verde over the strips. Cut each roll into 2 to 3 equal pieces and arrange over the salsa. Serve immediately.
pork cheeks and master stock
braised pork cheeks
with shiitake mushroom and thyme sticky rice
1. Dry the pork cheeks well with paper towel and season with
salt and pepper. In a large, heavy-based pot, heat the oil and sear the pork cheeks on both sides until golden brown. (You may need to do this in a few separate batches.) Remove from the pan and set aside on a plate. 2. To the same pot (now empty), add the chicken stock, rice wine, soy sauce, orange peel, ginger, garlic, mustard seeds, juniper berries, star anise and reserved shiitake stems to the pot and bring to a simmer. 3. Add the pork cheeks and braise for about 1 hour and 45 minutes, until the cheeks become tender. Using a slotted spoon, remove the cheeks and reserve. Strain the stock and set aside. (This master stock will keep about 2 weeks if stored in the fridge.) 4. To reheat the cheeks, take ½ cup of the master stock per cheek and heat in a frying pan. Add the cheeks and simmer until the stock has reduced and become a sticky glaze covering the meat.
sticky rice
1. Place the chicken stock in a saucepan and bring to a boil, Serves 4 to 6
This is a recipe from Chef Todd Bright of Wild Rice restaurant in Vancouver. Raw fresh shiitake is added to the rice just before serving, and adds a lovely silky texture.
pork cheeks and master stock
3 2 8
lb fresh pork cheeks tbsp canola oil cups chicken stock ½ cup Shaoxing rice wine* or dry sherry ¼ cup soy sauce Peel of 1 large orange, in large pieces (not grated) 2 thumb-sized pieces of ginger, peeled and finely sliced 10 cloves of garlic, peeled and smashed ¼ cup yellow mustard seeds 2 tbsp dried whole juniper berries 2 star anise Shiitake mushroom stems (caps used in sticky rice)
then turn down to a simmer.
2. Heat a medium-sized frying pan and add the oil. Add the diced onion and fry until translucent.
3. Add the short-grain rice and stir until every grain of rice is
coated in oil. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Add a ladle of the hot chicken stock. Constantly stir the rice until it has absorbed the stock. 4. Add another ladle of stock, stirring constantly, and continue in this manner until the rice has cooked but with a little firmness to it. Keep on tasting the rice until it’s al dente. 5. Add the shiitake mushroom caps, green onions, water chestnuts and fresh thyme. Serve immediately accompanied by the braised pork cheeks. •
sticky rice
10 cups chicken stock 2 tbsp canola oil ½ cup diced yellow cooking onion 2 cups short-grain rice (preferably Japanese sushi rice) 2 cups sliced fresh shiitake mushrooms, caps only (add stems to master stock) ¼ cup sliced green onions ¼ cup sliced water chestnuts 2 tbsp fresh thyme
*Available in Asian food stores or the Asian food section of larger supermarkets.
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that is a lot\\
Put 8,397 wines from 52 countries in a room with 320 tasters from 40 countries and you might think that chaos would ensue. The result, in fact, is one of the most well-organized wine competitions in the world. Now approaching its twentieth anniversary, the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles (CMB) began in Bruges, Belgium with a not-so-modest 861 wine entries from 29 countries and legendary winemaker Ezio Rivella as its inaugural judging chairman. Bruges served as the competition’s home for the first dozen years, but due to the CMB’s growth — in terms of the number and diversity of global entries, the number of judges and the influence of the results — the organizers have taken their show on the road. Since 2006, the competition has been hosted in a different locale, each, to this point, in Europe. But that is about to change with the announcement at the conclusion of this year’s event in Guimarães, Portugal that not only will the 2013 wine and spirits competition be held independently (spirits became a part of the competition in 1999 when the CMB merged with the Brussels Spirits Awards), but for the first time the competition will take place outside of Europe — the spirits segment will be held in Taiwan. Although still in Europe, the CMB wine competition will celebrate its twenty-year milestone in the eastern European centre of Bratislava, Slovakia. The competition’s results are not just having a greater influence internationally, but they are also a reflection of evolution in the wine industry. The majority of the wines entered still come from the stalwart Old World–wine-producing countries of France, Spain, Italy and Portugal, but the judges represent the proliferation of wine consumption across the globe. And
52 // September 2012
davine
by gurvinder Bhatia
with Asia emerging as a major market (perhaps ultimately THE major market), the number of judges from this region is not a surprise, nor is the move to hold part of the competition there. Another reason why the competition may be growing is its detailed statistical analysis of the performance of each of the judges, which many producers view as giving the CMB results great credibility. Judges are “judged” based on the spread of their scores between excellent and mediocre wines (the ability and confidence to distinguish between good and average wines), how their scores compare to other judges in their panel as well as all the judges in the competition, and repeatability, which is the ability to score the same wine consistently (all the wines are tasted blind and on each day of tasting, there is one flight that has the same wine appearing twice. If a judge is repeatable and consistent, the scores for the wine should be identical). The objective, according to CMB organizers, is not to penalize bad tasters, but to ensure that the competition results are as “fair, accurate and relevant as possible.” The CMB seems to be well known and respected across the globe. The notable exceptions with respect to both exposure and a lack of entries are Canada and the United States. This year, there were only 43 entries from Canada and a paltry 32 from the US. Perhaps the lack of US entries can be explained by the large number of wine competitions held in the States. American producers may also feel that their consumers place a greater importance on domestic competition results and wine magazine scores as opposed to international competitions. But the CMB would be the ideal opportunity for Canadian wine producers to increase the level of awareness internation-
ally of the evolution and quality of the wines we are growing. It would also be an opportunity to show the world that we produce more than just Icewine — which is how most of the international wine world still sees us. And more Canadian producers should adopt the attitudes of the Ontario Pinot Noir producers who presented their wine in Florence, Italy last fall in conjunction with the Anteprima Chianti Rufina. Despite the relatively small production and the fact that the vast majority of their wines are consumed domestically, Ed Madronich, owner of Flat Rock Cellars, was emphatic in his desire to produce great-quality wines that can be compared with quality wines from around the world. And Norman Hardie summed it up perfectly by stating that “if Canada is to be looked upon as a serious wine-producing country, producers must strive for quality and regional diversity and participate in more international events to create awareness and interest. Even though the quantity of wines produced is not great, creating an export market/demand for Canadian wines is crucial for the growth and maturity of the industry.” (Tidings, Feb 2012) Maybe it’s time Canadian wine producers took a serious look at submitting more wines to the CMB.
A sampling of Grand Gold Medal winners:
Capezzana Syrah ‘804’ IGT 2004, Tuscany, Italy ($85)
Dark, with alluring aromas of crushed berry, earth and spice; full body, luscious fruit, hints of chocolate and vanilla undertones and a long, silky finish.
Abadia de Acón Roble 2010, Ribera del Duero, Spain ($23)
Smooth and rich, with notes of coffee, cedar and earth; plum flavours build on the palate and linger on the firm, generous finish.
Castillo Perelada Cava Brut Reserva, Penedès, Spain ($23)
Fresh and lively with a nice toastiness; hints of quince, peach, apricot, citrus and ginger with great balance and finesse.
Charles Heidsieck Brut Champagne Blanc de Millénaires 1995, Reims, France ($275) Beautiful, refined and elegant with an understated complexity, layers of coffee, toast and a nuttiness; creamy texture, great balance and super length.
Rust en Vrede Cirrus Syrah 2009, Coastal Region, South Africa ($54) Ripe and generous with loads of blackberry, blueberry, fig and currant fruit; hints of cocoa, graphite and mineral, with powerful and rich tannins and a long, lush finish.
Thirty Bench Small Lot Chardonnay 2010, Niagara, Ontario ($30)
Ripe, toasty, spicy, with flavours of apple and citrus and a rich core; hints of pineapple and a complex finish that goes on and on. Kudos for entering and for being the only Canadian wine to be awarded a Grand Gold Medal. •
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//the food notes 90 Steltzner Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Barrel Select 2002, Stags Leap, Napa, United States ($56)
Deep plum-red. Somewhat subdued nose of raspberry, cassis, earth and fresh mushrooms eventually gives way to liquorice and pipe tobacco. On the palate is fresh, clean fruit and lots of it: strawberries, plums, raspberries. Tannins are soft and dwindling, but still sufficient to add the necessary structure to what would otherwise be an overwhelming fruit bomb. Drink now, with a grilled rib-eye steak. (RL)*
88 River Stone Merlot 2010, Okanagan ($20)
Fragrant black fruits burst on the nose, intertwined with nuances of vanilla and mocha. Rich black plum, chocolatecovered cherries and plush tannins coat the mouth. The long mineral-y finish offers flecks of dried herbs and chocolate shavings. Pair with a variety of marinated, grilled meats. (HH)
92 Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec 2009, Mendoza, Argentina ($20)
Argentina’s signature grape, Malbec, is well represented here by this gorgeous wine, with its nose of black cherry, cassis, pepper, cedar, black olive, plums and spices. It is rich and dense on the palate with extracted cassis and currants and bolstered by lavish spices through the smooth and polished finish. Try with duck breast or grilled sausage. (RV)
90 Wolf Blass Gold Label Riesling 2011, South Australia ($20)
It’s a fruity, medium-bodied wine, the colour of straw. The bouquet is redolent with a fragrance of apples, minerals and honey and a floral grace note. Ripe and full on the palate with honeyed lime and grapefruit flavours, it’s a style of wine that will go well with spicy dishes. (TA)
93 Kai Carménère 2008, Aconcagua Valley, Chile ($115) Eduardo Chadwick’s iconic Carménère is a beacon for Chile’s signature grape. Opens with smoky, spicy aromas backed by intense berry action. The vibrant palate unleashes a well-structured parade of ripe fruit, rich texture, plush tannins and tangy blueberry and sweet cherry flavour. Complex cigar box and balsamic notes linger. Go big with a game dish. (HH)
88 Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva ‘il Poggio’ 2006, Tuscany DOCG, Italy ($68)
Nice balance and quite harmonious with aromas and flavours of dark cherry and plum, full firm tannins, hints of liquorice, mint and leather with a bold, lengthy finish. Still quite tight in the mid-palate, but has all the components to indicate that it will evolve well over the next 6 to 8 years. Wild boar would be a natural match. (GB)
54 // September 2012
89 Hester Creek Character White 2011, Okanagan ($20) This lush, unoaked blend of Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Trebbiano opens with fresh orchard-fruit aromas. Tropical fruit notes emerge on the mouthwatering palate. Honeydew melon lingers on the refreshing finish. Perfect for chili-laden, crispy squid. (HH)
my ivy league summer\\
This past summer I waged a war against creeping, crawling Boston ivy. Boston ivy is a despicable vine with criss-crossing tentacles that attach themselves with five grasping suctiontipped fingers to anything that doesn’t move. It is the stuff of nightmares, the vine you might find clinging to Dracula’s castle. Oh, sure, from a distance the ivy-clad castle looks inviting, sheathed in leafy green. But up close those sticky tendrils will reach out to wrap you within their dark folds and hold you until the vampire arrives. And not the good-looking vampire. I must add that many people like Boston ivy. It crawls over the illustrious walls and buildings of Ivy League schools and ballparks. It is said to keep a building cooler. But my Italian father, who really knew his concrete, once told me ivy would suck the moisture from mortar and cause a wall to crumble. And let’s face it — have you ever seen ivy crawling over the ancient Roman Coliseum? That’s all I needed to know. The ivy had to go. The wall around my condo was rife with the dreadful watersucker, and while I couldn’t convince the condo association to remove it from the side that faces the street, I could pry its stiff little fingers from the wall facing my patio. This was no easy feat. Those woody stalks clung tenaciously, and when finally ripped away, left behind sticky scars. All summer, the ivy on the other side of the wall sent up tiny scouts, innocent-looking red-yellow sprouts peering hopefully into my yard. I wasn’t fooled. They were unceremoniously decapitated. Somewhere in another universe, on a planet where Boston ivy reigns as the dominant species, a Wanted poster with my face is hanging in a galactic post office. Once the ivy was under control, I planted tomatoes and herbs in my wee backyard. Following are some of the recipes I concocted from that beloved garden.
bouquet garni
by nancy Johnson
spinach, tarragon and feta cheese frittata serves 4 to 6
Years ago, I frequented a restaurant that made the best chicken salad I had ever eaten. I finally figured out the secret ingredient was fresh tarragon. Not only does it elevate chicken salad to a new level, it enhances many dishes, including this frittata. Tarragon has an assertive flavour that can overwhelm a dish, so always use sparingly. It’s best added towards the end of cooking as it loses its flavour if cooked too long.
2 tbsp butter 2 tbsp olive oil 3 scallions, sliced 3 cups chopped fresh spinach 12 large eggs 1 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon 1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese 3 tomatoes, sliced and baked until softened, or sliced fresh strawberries
1. Preheat broiler. 2. In a large broiler-proof skillet, melt 1 tbsp butter with 1 tbsp
olive oil over medium heat. Add the scallions; sauté until softened. Add the spinach, salt and pepper. 3. Cook until spinach is wilted. Remove and cool slightly. 4. In a large bowl, beat eggs. Stir in spinach mixture. Add tarragon. 5. In same skillet, melt remaining butter with olive oil over low heat. Add egg mixture, top with feta and cook over very low heat about 15 minutes until top is set and the frittata is cooked through.
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6. Place skillet in broiler. Broil until frittata is lightly browned,
about 2 to 3 minutes, watching closely. 7. Slide frittata onto plate and cut into wedges to serve. Serve with a side of sliced baked tomatoes or sliced fresh strawberries. …… I love mimosas with this dish — sparkling wine mixed with orange juice, each goblet garnished with a sliced orange and strawberry “kebab.”
chicken, fig and pancetta bruschetta serves 4
I am always looking for new ways to serve bruschetta, and I love figs. This recipe calls for fresh figs, but if not in season, dried figs work as well. It can be served as a light lunch by adding one additional chicken breast fillet. If toasting the bread under the broiler, watch it closely as it goes from golden brown to burnt very quickly.
1 boneless chicken breast fillet 8 slices pancetta 4 fresh figs, halved or 1/2 cup chopped dried figs 4 thick slices Italian bread, toasted or grilled and rubbed with 1 garlic clove 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar 2 tsp honey 2 tsp extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp minced basil
1. Heat a lightly oiled skillet until hot. 2. Season chicken with salt. Sauté on both sides until browned. Add 1/2 cup water and cook over low heat, covered,
until cooked through, about 7 minutes. Remove. Drain pan. 3. Add pancetta; sauté until crisp. Drain and blot with paper towel. If using fresh figs, sauté until softened, then chop. If using dried figs sauté until heated through.
56 // September 2012
garlicky braised lamb shanks with fresh tomatoes serves 4
The secret to yummy lamb shanks is to sauté them slowly, browning on all sides. Don’t rush it; have a glass of wine while you’re cooking. This is delicious with buttered orzo.
4 2 6 1
1/2 2 2 4 1
lamb shanks tbsp olive oil cloves garlic, peeled onion, chopped cup dry white wine cups chicken stock, divided tbsp chopped fresh rosemary fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1. Preheat oven to 325˚F. 2. Season lamb shanks with salt and pepper. In
olive oil in a large skillet, slowly sauté lamb shanks over medium heat, browning on all sides until deep golden brown. Transfer to roasting pan. 3. Add garlic and onion to skillet. Add more olive oil, if needed. Sauté until softened. Add wine; cook 3 minutes more or until slightly reduced. 4. Add garlic-onion mixture to roasting pan. Pour in 1 cup chicken stock, rosemary and tomatoes. Roast, covered, for 2 hours or until lamb is tender. Add remaining chicken stock if needed. 5. Divide lamb shanks among 4 shallow bowls. Pour sauce over the lamb and garnish with parsley. …… A Barolo would be an excellent accompaniment to the lamb and tomatoes.
4. Thinly slice the chicken. Place two slices pancetta on each bread slice. Place chicken slices over pancetta. Sprinkle figs on top. Drizzle with balsamic vinegar, honey and olive oil, using more or less as desired. Garnish with basil. Serve immediately. …… Serve with a fruity South African Chenin Blanc.
roasted tuscan chicken serves 4
Dried rosemary can sometimes feel like sharp pine needles in a dish, but fresh is a whole different story. This dish will work with chicken breasts as well, but will require a slightly longer roasting time. My Aunt Maria serves this dish as a part of an Italian buffet that includes ravioli, stuffed mushrooms and a sweet ricotta pie.
8 bone-in chicken thighs, skin removed 6 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 2 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary Olive oil Chicken broth
5. Preheat oven to 400˚F. Coat a roasting pan with cooking spray.
6. Place the chicken in the roasting pan. Season with salt and
garlic herb pork roast serves 4 to 6
This is slow Sunday afternoon cooking at its best. The method of pushing a herbal mixture into a pork roast is sublime. Vary the recipe by using whatever herbs you have on hand, but always make sure there is plenty of garlic in the mixture. I can never resist making mashed potatoes with pork roast and serving a starter of steamed artichokes with butter.
pepper.
7. Scatter garlic and rosemary over chicken. Drizzle olive oil over chicken and add a bit of chicken broth to the baking dish. 8. Bake, uncovered, 30 to 40 minutes or until chicken is cooked through. …… Try a Soave with this dish.
mojo mojito An awesome drink to enjoy after a tough day battling creeping ivy and insidious weeds. Mint will take over the garden if left to its own devices; Mojitos and Mint Juleps are essential to keep things in check. For a Mint Julep, use bourbon instead of rum. To make simple syrup, heat equal parts sugar and water in a saucepan until sugar melts. Cool before using.
1 tsp superfine sugar or simple syrup Juice of 1/2 lime 3-4 fresh mint leaves, preferably spearmint 1 3/4 oz light rum Sparkling water or club soda Mint leaves, for garnish Put the sugar and lime juice in the bottom of a glass. Add the mint leaves and muddle with the handle of a wooden spoon. Add the rum and top up the glass with sparkling water and ice. Garnish with a mint leaf.
1 small head garlic, peeled and broken into cloves 2 tbsp fresh rosemary 2 tsp fennel seeds Salt and pepper 1 pork loin roast 1 tbsp olive oil 1 cup dry white wine
1. Preheat oven to 325˚F. 2. In food processor, process garlic, rosemary, fennel seeds, salt and pepper.
3. Make several slits in pork loin and insert herb
mixture. Rub roast with olive oil; pat on remaining herb mixture. Place the meat in a roasting pan. Roast, uncovered, about 2 1/2 hours or until tender. 4. To deglaze pan, remove roast and spoon off fat. Place roasting pan on top of stove. Over medium heat, add wine, scraping up browned bits. Simmer until slightly reduced. Slice pork, place on platter and spoon wine sauce over pork. …… A fine dry Riesling from Alsace would fit the bill here. •
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Tidings uses the 100-point scale 95-100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90-94. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85-89 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80-84. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75-79. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 & under. . . . . . . . . . .
exceptional excellent very good good acceptable below average
Our Scoring
System
* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . available through wine clubs green. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . white & rosé wines red. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . red wines
the commentaries in order to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board, or its website, for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler (ON), Sean Wood (NS, NB), Gilles Bois (QC), Evan Saviolidis (ON), Harry Hertscheg (BC), Gurvinder Bhatia (AB), Rick VanSickle (ON), Ron Liteplo (AB), Tod Stewart (ON) and Jonathan Smithe (MB). Argentina // p. 58-59; Australia // p. 59; Canada // p. 59-61;
Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category. Readers should open their palates to compare the relationship between quality and price. We’d also ask you to carefully study
Chile // p. 61-62; France // p. 62-63; Italy // p. 63; New Zealand // p. 63-64; portugal // p. 64;
the notes\\ /Argentina /
92 Luca Chardonnay “G Lot” 2010, Mendoza ($30)
Like the Zorzal wines, the fruit for this Chardonnay comes from the high-elevation Uco Valley. What a gorgeous nose of creamy peach, minerality, subtle spices and touches of apricot and citrus. Well-defined stone fruit in the mouth with lovely spice, vanilla and minerals wrapped around a core of bright acidity. So delicious and elegant. Would pair well with broiled PEI lobster slathered in butter. (RV)
88 Bodega Privada Torrontés 2011, Mendoza ($10) Floral aromatics suggest rose
58 // September 2012
petals with delicate Muscatlike pungency, green fruit and a touch of tropical fruit, finishing with refreshingly clean acidity. Drink as an aperitif or pair with seafood and white meats. Outstanding value. (SW)
86 Trapiche Extra Brut 2011, Mendoza Valley ($12) Extra Brut it is not — there’s some sweetness in mid-palate reminiscent of a Prosecco. Produced from Chardonnay, Sémillon and Malbec, it’s a well-priced bubbly with sweet pear and citrus flavours. (TA)
92 Zorzal Wines Climax Malbec 2008, Mendoza ($45)
Zorzal’s top-tier wine offers
South Africa // p. 64-65; Spain // p. 65; United States // p. 65
up Malbec in its purest and most thrilling expression. An enthralling nose of cherry, summer raspberry, boysenberry, toasted oak and concentrated currants. This is a beautifully poised and balanced wine in the mouth with layered spices of clove and nutmeg, fine oak vanilla and cocoa, and a plethora of ripe currants, red fruits and firm tannins. A true beauty that will improve for 5 or more years in the cellar. Pair with grilled beef or lamb. (RV)
91 Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec 2009, Mendoza ($20)
Catena’s staple Malbec is a saturated-purple/cherry wine
that offers excellent concentration and length. Its personality is somewhat overripe with raisins, blueberries, blackberries and black cherries meshing with licorice, violets and cocoa. Drink it over the next 5 to 7 years. (ES)
91 Bodega Norton Privada 2008, Mendoza ($25) A fabulous red blend of Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon that shows very thick, rich and layered currants, leather, boysenberry and sandalwood on the nose. Such a complex and layered red wine on the palate with ripe dark fruits, balanced spices and firm tannic structure. (RV)
\
89 Fabre Montmayou Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Mendoza ($15)
Dense purple in colour, it has a nose of crushed blackcurrants. The fruit is sweet and the balance is perfect. You might want to cellar a few bottles because it will improve in a couple of years when the tannins soften. (TA)
89 Manos Negras Malbec 2007, Mendoza ($15)
A nose of violets, perfumed red fruits and lovely soft spices. It’s a very different style of Malbec, more refined and elegant than most with black cherry fruit, gorgeous floral notes and lightly toasted oak vanilla that’s all beautifully balanced through the finish. (RV)
89 Bodega Norton Reserva Malbec 2009, Mendoza ($18)
A nice nose of cassis, currants, violets, toasted oak and mocha notes. It’s bold and juicy on the palate, with an array of dark fruits and integrated spice; good acidity and balance. (RV)
88 La Posta Cocina Tinto 2010, Mendoza ($13) A sleek nose of concentrated cherry-blueberry, earth, baking spices and oak. A very nice blend of Malbec, Syrah and Bonarda for the price with rich red fruits, currants, blueberry and sweet spices that are soft and juicy through the finish. (TA)
88 Zorzal Wines Pinot Noir 2009, Mendoza ($16)
It’s so nice to see different
varieties being attempted in Argentina, especially from the cooler regions such as the high-elevation Uco Valley. This Pinot is quite earthy on the nose, with expressive black cherry, tobacco leaf and spice. The red fruits on the palate are delivered on a silky-smooth frame with notes of cedar and a hint of pepper. (RV)
88 Decero Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Mendoza ($20)
This Cab has a beautiful nose of currants, blackberry, cedar and spice. It’s juicy on the palate with savoury and vibrant red and dark fruits that persist through the finish. Very tasty and a steal at this price. (RV)
88 Zorzal Wines Malbec Reserve 2008, Mendoza ($25)
A nose of ripe raspberry, oak-spice, mineral, violets and red plums. The red fruits are on full display in the mouth, with spice and vibrant acidity woven in. It has fine texture and balance through the finish and notes of tar and espresso bean. (RV)
87 Bodega Alamos Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Mendoza ($15)
From the Catena Zapata family of wines; look for blackberry, espresso, toasted oak and an interesting lean and minty note on the nose. This is a juicy Cab, but not flabby at all, with delicious cherry, raspberry and currants to go with deliciously integrated spices and plenty of racy acidity. Serve with grilled steaks. (RV)
/Australia / 90 Wolf Blass Grey Label Shiraz Cabernet 2009, Robe/Mount Benson ($35)
The purple/red colour leads into plums, blackberries, vanilla, cocoa powder and brief hints of mint. It is full-bodied but not overt, thanks to the fact the grapes were sourced from the cool regions of Robe and Mount Benson, in the southern Limestone Coast GI. The acid is fresh, the length is excellent and the tannins are supple. Drink it over the next 5 years. (ES)
88 Mitolo Jester Shiraz 2010, South Australia ($22)
Dense purple colour with a spicy blackberry nose; medium- to full-bodied, richly extracted blackberry and dark chocolate flavours laced with lively acidity and mellow tannins. (TA)
86 Rosemount Diamond Label Shiraz 2010, Southeastern Australia ($16)
The 2010 is the first vintage to use the new eco-friendly lightweight glass. Smooth and easy to drink, this venerable offering doles out dark fruits, violets, spice and cocoa. There is medium length and it is ready to drink. (ES)
/Canada / 91 Quails’ Gate Chardonnay Stewart Family Reserve 2010, Okanagan ($30) Deep straw colour. Rich,
toasty, spicy nose with tropical fruit notes; sweet pineapple and mango flavours with a buttery note. Nicely oaked and balanced with citrus acidity. Great length. (TA)
90 Hester Creek Old Vines Block 16 Trebbiano 2011, Okanagan ($23) 40-year-old estate vines bring out an expressive nose, palate and finish. Honeysuckle aroma grabs attention. Passion fruit flavour suggests complexity. White grapefruit and mineral linger on and on. Each sip adds savoury nuances. A palate-cleansing match for a caramelized onion tart. (HH)
90 Joie Farm Pinot Blanc 2011, Okanagan ($23) Elegant rose petal and aromatic stone fruit on the nose, with luscious peach and apricot fruit flavours, zesty acidity, a lick of mineral and a judicious touch of residual sweetness. More convincing evidence of the Okanagan’s special finesse with Pinot Blanc. (SW)
89 Tinhorn Creek Pinot Gris 2011, Okanagan ($18)
Pale straw colour. Minerally, peach nose; medium-bodied, dry peach flavour with a light floral strain. Rests nicely on the palate with peach and apple flavours that linger long. (TA)
89 Vineland Estates Chardonnay Musqué 2010, Niagara Escarpment ($18)
Straw colour with a lime tint. Aromatic, apple-blossom
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//the notes nose; medium-bodied, spicy apple, peach and lemon flavours. A touch of sweetness in mid-palate. Lively and fresh. (TA)
89 Hillside Muscat Ottonel 2011, Okanagan ($22)
Floral and spice tease the nose and entice the palate, while intense, juicy grapeyness fills the mouth. Lychee, clove, cinnamon and orange zest linger from start to finish. A worthy sipper, whether as an aperitif or a post-dinner palate-refresher. Serve well chilled. (HH)
89 Joie Farm Unoaked Chardonnay 2011, Okanagan ($23)
Lean green-apple-and-citrus character, but with a distinctive whiff of banana. Incisive lemon citrus flavour leads on the creamy, leesy palate, with lingering fruit on the crisp, clean finish. (SW)
89 La Stella Vivace Pinot Grigio 2011, Okanagan ($25)
Pale straw colour. Fragrant peach and mineral nose; off-dry, ripe peach and musk melon flavours, good length. Well balanced and fresh. Ideal for the patio and some crudites. (TA)
89 Nova 7 by Benjamin Bridge 2011, Nova Scotia ($25)
Gentle effervescence on the palate highlights lively fresh fruit flavours, including pink grapefruit, a panoply of tree fruits and hints of tropical fruit. Residual sweetness, vibrant acidity, mineral grip and low alcohol make this an ideal aperitif. (SW)
60 // September 2012
89 Rennie Estate Christine Chardonnay Reserve 2010, Beamsville Bench ($35)
Rennie is a small winery in the Beamsville Bench whose wines are made by Angels Gate winemaker Philip Dowell. To procure these wines, there are 2 avenues: online, or through the retail boutique at Angels Gate. The Christine Chardonnay, named after owner Christine Rennie, is a medium-bodied white wine with peach, white flowers, vanilla, caramel, honey and banana on the nose. In the mouth, it is delicate, and the acidity is on the low side. Cream, fig and spice chime in on the finale. Oh, by the way, this wine won a silver medal at this year’s Ontario Wine Awards. (ES)
88 Cave Spring Riesling Dry 2010, Niagara ($15)
Pale straw in colour with a lime tint, this wine has a nose of grapefruit, green pineapple, minerals and orange blossom. It’s light on the palate, with a crisp lime flavour and just a touch of sweetness stopping it from becoming too tart. A wine for seafood. (TA)
88 Hester Creek Pinot Blanc 2011, Okanagan ($16)
East-facing Golden Mile Bench results in cool late afternoons and evenings, ensuring bright acidity and vibrant fruit character. White peach punches through on the nose and palate, freshened by squirts of citrus and green apple. A palate-cleansing finish. Smart choice with tempura prawns. (HH)
88 Hester Creek Pinot Gris 2011, Okanagan ($17)
Crafted without oak or malolactic fermentation, but with minimal lees contact; leads to citrusy acidity, vibrant fruit and a well-balanced round texture. Abundant orchard fruit aromas and flavours. Sage and mineral notes persist. Versatile with sushi rolls. (HH)
88 River Stone Malbec Rosé 2011, Okanagan ($20)
Intriguing floral, fruity and herbal aromas. Flavours of damson plum, Rainier cherry and spicy sassafras delight the palate, along with lingering meaty notes. Quite robust for a ruby pink–coloured quaff. Delicious with sandwiches ranging from sliders to porchetta Panini. (HH)
88 River Stone Pinot Gris 2011, Okanagan ($20) Fragrant honeysuckle and ripe-pear aromas please the nose. Orangey melon fills the fruit-forward, richly textured palate. Notes of spicy applesauce and clove-studded pear linger on the dry finish. Matches well with spicy pork dishes. (HH)
88 Tinhorn Creek Oldfield Series 2 Bench White 2011, Okanagan ($23)
52% Chardonnay, 31% Sauvignon Blanc, 11% Viognier, 3% Sémillon, 3% Muscat. Pale straw colour and aromatic, peachy nose; full on the palate with a soft mouthfeel. Nicely balanced melon and peach flavours with good length. (TA)
88 Colaneri Fumoso Bianco Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Niagara ($25)
A dead ringer for a quality Graves/Pessac-Léognan. 30% of the grapes were kiln-dried, and then the entirety was aged in new barrels for 8 months. Aromas of grass, spice, lemon-lime, tropical fruit, white pepper and apple are complemented by flavours of honey, white flowers and grapefruit. It finishes on a green note. There is very good length, and it is made to pair with goat cheese/ vegetable pizza or grilled mahi mahi brochettes marinated in Dijon, olive oil and oregano. (ES)
87 Stoney Ridge Unoaked Chardonnay 2009, Niagara ($13) Made for those who like refreshing and unwooded wines. A fruit-driven nose of grapefruit, pear, peach, pineapple and citrus are built on a light- to medium-bodied frame. Although dry, there is very good length, and for the price it represents great value. Pick up a couple of bottles for summer sipping. (ES)
87 Fort Berens Pinot Gris 2011, BC ($18)
Inaugural vintage using fruit from the winery’s Lillooet estate in the Fraser Canyon, blended with 65% Black Sage Bench fruit from the Okanagan. Spicy pear and pineapple aromas. Satsuma orange and melon flavours lead to a savoury, pear-skin finish. Try with halibut. (HH)
87 Hillside Gewürztraminer 2011, Okanagan ($20)
Classic lychee and honeysuckle aromas delight the nose.
Rich honeysuckle and ruby grapefruit flavours fill the medium-dry palate. Spicy tropical fruit and citrus peel notes persist on the finish. Refreshing with the cheese course, even after maincourse reds. (HH)
87 Joie Farm Rosé 2011, Okanagan ($21)
A lighter style inspired by the Loire and made from Pinot Noir and Gamay. Scents of cherry, cranberry and a hint of strawberry; background mineral and crunchy red cherry with enlivening tartness on the palate. Needs food. (SW)
86 Fort Berens White Gold 2010, Okanagan ($25)
This Black Sage-sourced Chardonnay was treated to half stainless steel and half new French oak. Spicy tropical aromas on the nose and buttery-rich texture on the palate, followed by a toasted spice finish. Serve with panko-crusted shellfish. (HH)
85 Fort Berens Riesling 2011, Lillooet ($18)
Sourced from Lillooet’s only estate winery. Apple and lychee aromas spring from the glass. Juicy acidity brightens the rich, off-dry palate, which features ripe pear, baked apple and a spicy orange-peel finish. Pairs well with Moroccanspiced dishes. (HH)
85 Hillside Rosé 2011, Okanagan ($20)
Floral and red-berried aromas pop from this rose-coloured blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Gamay and Pinot Noir. Flavours of sweet strawberry,
raspberry and candy apple splash the juicy palate. Serve well chilled with spicy barbecued fare. (HH)
85 Township 7 Reserve Chardonnay 2008, Okanagan ($25)
Caramelized pineapple strikes the nose. Butter-sautéed peaches dominate the lees-textured palate; flecked with American oak-derived coconut cream pie and French oak-infused nutmeg. Bottle age adds length. Go for barbecued chicken with buttered corn on the cob. (HH)
90 Colaneri Unita Cabernet Franc 2010, Niagara ($25)
To date, this is the best Unita that has been produced. 30% of the grapes were dried and the wine was aged in new oak for 17 months. The dark cherry colour leads to a huge nose of mint/herbs, plums, cocoa, dark cherries, licorice and violets. Full bodied, the ripe fruit is supported by equally ripe tannins. Drink it now until 2020. (ES)
89 Colaneri Corposo 2010, Niagara ($19)
Corposo is Colaneri’s take on a Ripasso wine. The blend is 65% Cabernet Franc, 25% Syrah and 10% Merlot. At first whiff, it is Cab Franc’s herbal nature that takes control, but soon thereafter, the plums, cocoa and cherry of the Merlot and the black pepper and cassis of the Syrah dominate. It is medium- to full-bodied, with a sweet core of berry fruit on the palate and a lengthy finish. Drink it over the next 4 to 5 years. (ES)
88 Southbrook Organic Red Connect 2011, Niagara ($15)
A Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Deep ruby colour, with a complex nose of vanilla oak, cedar and blackcurrant and a floral note, it’s mediumbodied, fruity and fresh. Flavours of red and blackcurrants are backed by vanilla oak, finishing with soft tannins. (TA)
88 Peller Estates Private Reserve Cabernet Franc 2010, Niagara ($22)
This Franc possesses a dark cherry-colour core with a red rim. Fairly aromatic, the blackcurrant, tobacco, pencil shavings and violets are built on a medium body, acidity and tannins. It is a refined offering that will drink well over the next 3 years. (ES)
88 Hillside Pinot Noir 2010, Okanagan ($25)
Complex aromas of red- and black-berried fruit, entwined with herbal and spice notes and a solid core of ripe strawberry and wild raspberry flavours. Palate-cleansing minerality on the finish, accompanied by subtle spice notes. Pair with marinated sockeye salmon. (HH)
88 Rennie Estate Paradox Pinot Noir Reserve 2010, Beamsville Bench ($40)
The colour is light cherry and the perfume speaks of plums, cherries, cranberries and raspberries. Spice, carnations, earth and herbs round out the palate. It is elegant and has very good length.
Pair it with a veal roast and sautéed Swiss chard. (ES)
87 River Stone Cabernet Franc 2010, Okanagan ($26)
Tangy raspberry and tobacco scents strike the nose and persist on the medium-bodied palate. Fresh acidity, savoury flavours and taut tannins ensure food-friendliness. Blackcurrant, chocolate and mineral notes linger. Poised to pair with grilled vegetables (and meats, too, of course). (HH)
87 River Stone Corner Stone 2009, Okanagan ($28.50)
Their flagship 4-varietal Bordeaux-style blend exhibits classic blackcurrant, dried herbs, cedar and black plum. The full-bodied palate showcases bright fruit flavours and well-integrated tannins. The warm finish echoes coffee bean, dried herbs and dried currants. Matches well with beef stew. (HH)
/Chile / 89 Santa Carolina Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Leyda Valley ($13)
Ocean-breezed Leyda Valley grabs attention with its lively, tangy, herbal style, as does this remarkable price. High-toned aromas of pea shoots, fresh grass and lemon preface intensely flavoured gooseberry, citrus salad and lingering pineapple. Clean, crisp finish begs another sip. Sings with ceviche. (HH)
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//the notes 89 Miguel Torres Las Mulas Organic Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Central Valley ($13)
This organically grown SB offers supreme value! It possesses a pale straw colour with a silver lining. Aromatic, the grapefruit, tropical fruit, honey, white flowers, lime and guava meet up with a palate full of fruit salad, citrus and herbs. The finish is long and tangy. Don’t be shy — buy a couple of bottles for everyday sipping or your next dinner party. (ES)
85 Santa Rita Heroes Chardonnay 2011, DO Valle Central ($9.99)
Grassy green fruit and aromatic intensity, together with a hint of mineral. Fresh grapefruit and tropical fruit flavours with refreshingly clean acidity. (SW)
89 Montes Limited Selection Cabernet Sauvignon/ Carménère 2010, Colchagua Valley ($20)
The nose picks up telltale triggers: Cab Sauv cassis, Carménère smokiness, Colchagua chocolate notes. The palate welcomes a balance of firm tannins and earthy flavours of leather, tobacco and persistent cedar on the finish. Red berry-fruit pops out when paired with marinated grilled meats. (HH)
88 Clava Quintay Coastal Reserve Syrah 2009, DO Casablanca Valley ($14)
Raspberry, blackberry, green herb and a note of peppery spice on the nose, with flavours of rich ripe berry, dark chocolate and contrasting dry tannins on the palate.
62 // September 2012
Well-integrated fruit, chocolate, spice and drying tannins on the finish. (SW)
/France / 88 Moulin de Gassac Première Sèlection Hérault Blanc 2010, Pays-d’Hérault IGP ($11)
A Clairette Vermentino blend offering aromatic floral, peach and citrus notes with fresh yellow fruit flavours, moderate alcohol, medium weight and refreshing acidity. Great seafood pairing! (SW)
88 François Lurton Sauvignon de Bordeaux 2010, Bordeaux ($12)
Unlike any white Bordeaux I have tasted — it’s more like a cross between a Loire Valley Sancerre and a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Pale straw, almost water-white in colour, it has an upfront bouquet of gooseberry and grapefruit; these flavours expand on the palate to passion fruit and guava, ending with a crisp lemony finish. Great value. (TA)
87 Bouchard Père & Fils Mon Lugny St-Pierre 2010, Burgundy ($15)
If you’re looking for a good introductory white Burgundy, try this Chardonnay. Pale straw in colour, with a fresh nose of citrus fruit and apple, complemented by a mineral note. The wine is medium-bodied and crisply dry. Just the job to match with grilled trout. (TA)
93 Guigal Hermitage 2005, Rhône Valley ($78) You are struck by the finesse on the nose, the pure fruit and a fair amount of oak (in typical
Guigal style). Texture is delicate and silky, but there is an underlying power and strength that is amazing. It’s tight and firm, but it remains elegant in every way. Long, perfectly balanced finish. A keeper that is already great. (GBQc)
92 Château Vignelaure 2003, Coteaux d’Aix-enProvence ($22)
Dense garnet colour. Nose is of sour cherries and toasty oak. The very definition of balanced, the red berries play beautifully off vibrant acidity and nice soft tannins, with a long finish. Beats the pants off most similarly priced Bordeaux. Perfect now but will last a few more years. (RL)*
92 Château PrieuréLichine 2008, Margaux, Bordeaux ($72)
Purplish. The rich nose dominated by notes of black fruits shows depth and integrated oak. Acidity is a little bit forward, but there is good extraction; the tannins are fleshy and velvety with good consistency. Beautifully made. (GBQc)
89 JP Brun Terres Dorées 2009 Côtes de Brouilly, Beaujolais ($18)
Light purple. Nice red fruits (strawberry, raspberry) with a touch of cinnamon. A mouthful of intense fruity taste with a little grip from the tannins to add structure. Clean finish and ready to drink. (GBQc)
89 Clos Sainte-Anne 2005, Premières Côtes de Bordeaux ($19)
Mostly Merlot with a bit of Cabernet Franc, the colour is a medium-deep cherry/
garnet. The nose is crushed raspberries on a forest floor, giving way to plums and spicy oak. Full-bodied with still-prominent tannins and plenty of juicy fruit, mostly cherries. Give it a couple more years, or drink now if you like them fruity. (RL)*
89 Château Cambon la Pelouse 2008, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux ($25)
Cherry red. Not very expressive on the nose, but it shows finesse in its floral scent and kirsch notes. Elegant, it has an intense, ripe fruity taste that seems almost sweet. Delicate tannins. Finish is nicely balanced. (GBQc)
89 Jean-Paul Brun Terres Dorées Morgon 2010, Beaujolais ($29)
Brun farms from some of the highest altitudes in Beaujolais and ages half the juice for this wine in older oak barrels. Such a rich and inviting nose of field raspberry, strawberry, violets and game and barely a hint of spice. It’s not refined at all, but rather wild in its presentation on the palate, with raspberry-cherry fruits migrating to darker berries, roasted meats and light garnishing spices. A wondrous wine. (RV)
88 Château de Ricaud 2009, Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux ($20)
Ruby purple. Expressive nose of red fruits and oaky vanilla. Simple but inviting. Pleasant fruity taste, soft texture, slightly dry and warm finish of good length. Ready to enjoy, it resembles more a new-world wine than a typical Bordeaux. (GBQc)
87 Les Sens de Branda 2008, Bordeaux AC ($13) A solid little Bordeaux made in a somewhat fruit-forward style. It shows mellow red fruit and redcurrant scents with a note of spice and earthy mushroom overtones. Medium-weight on the palate, with moderate tannic structure and a lick of chocolate on the dry finish. (SW)
86 Gérard Bertrand Art de Vivre Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Vin de Pays d’Oc IGP ($12)
Ripe dark fruits, licorice and a chemical twist (solvent, paint) similar to what is sometimes found in rosés. Warm on the palate, nice fruity taste, slightly rough tannic backbone near the dry finish. Drink now. (GBQc)
/Italy / 89 Astoria Mina 2010, Conegliano Bianco DOC ($15)
Aromatic and lightly honeyed yellow fruit show pear, melon and overtones of tropical fruit. Citrus note emerges on the palate with lively acidity, gravelly mineral and lingering fine fruit on the finish. (SW)
89 Donnafugata Anthilia 2010, Sicilia IGP ($20)
This elegantly labelled white is a benchmark for consistency and polished style. Scents of tropical fruit, peach and citrus shift towards more dominant peach on the palate. Vibrant acidity, appetizing minerality and lingering ripe fruit complete the picture. (SW)
88 Tenuta Ponte Greco di Tufo 2009 DOCG, Campania ($18)
Bright pale yellow. Aromatic nose of white fruits, a touch of asparagus and a nice minerality. Fresh attack; balance is on the acidic side with a light body. An intense and persistent fruity taste finishing on a dry minerality. Very nice on a warm day as an aperitif or with white fish. (GBQc)
92 Delibori Amarone 2003, Valpolicella ($34)
Mature, nearly opaque deep mahogany colour. Huge nose hits you as you draw near the glass: plums, then kirsch and golden raisins. Flavour is dominated by black cherries, balanced with an interesting dash of herbal bitters and some spice from the oak. Has a tonne of fruit without being jammy. Ready now; won’t get better. Luscious with roast duck and braised kale. (RL)*
92 Donnafugata Tancredi Nero d’Avola and Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Sicilia IGT ($45)
Developed nose reveals elegant notes of blackcurrant, plum, clove, cinnamon and a pinch of nutmeg. Similarly developed on the palate, with harmoniously integrated fruit, layers of spice, firm but supple tannins and deftly crafted oak. Drinking well but will develop further. (SW)
91 Donatella Cinelli Colombini il Drago e le Otto Colombe 2007, Tuscany IGT ($48)
Loads of rich black cherry, plum and blackberry with big, velvety tannins, spice, a touch of mocha; very stylish and
bold, but very approachable and elegant with a very long finish. 80% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot and 20% Sagrantino — the cuttings of which came from Arnaldo Caprai. (GB)
90 Monsanto Nemo 2006, Tuscany IGT ($68)
finish with a touch of fresh acidity. Traditional in a good way, with fine Sangiovese character and grippy tannins lingering with tobacco and a touch of leather. Will benefit from 3 to 5 years in the cellar. (GB)
Rich and bold aromas and flavours of black fruit, fresh herbs and licorice with firm, velvety tannins, a touch of mocha, nice complexity and a long elegant, lifted finish. Don’t be afraid to leave this in your cellar for a decade to see it develop more complexity and depth. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. (GB)
88 Monsanto Nemo 2004, Tuscany IGT ($68)
89 Giorgio and Gianni Nero 2010, Puglia, Salento IGT ($12)
86 Monsanto ‘Monrosso’ Chianti 2009, Tuscany DOC ($20)
100% Negroamaro, an indigenous variety from the area. Notes of candied, dried black fruits give its nose an impression of warmth. Fully ripe, tame acidity, round and supple middle palate. A nice glass of sunshine at an attractive price. (GBQc)
88 Donnafugata Sherazade Nero d’Avola 2010, Sicilia IGP ($25)
Fruit forward, with fresh dark cherry and gravelly mineral on the nose. The cherry theme carries through in the mouth with juicy ripeness and brisk acid balance adding freshness and lift. Some Sicilians drink it slightly chilled. (SW)
88 Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva 2008, Tuscany DOCG ($35)
Nice expression of black cherry and fresh herbs with firm tannins, a full mid-palate, nice balance and a long
Drinking quite well now, although lacks a little complexity. Quite soft, maybe too soft with plum and blackberry flavours, a lot of dried herbs but good balance (although lacks acidity). Enjoy now with grilled meats, but may not have much more time. (GB)
Aromas and flavours of cherry and plum with hints of dried herbs and tobacco and quite youthful, nice acidity on the finish. Needs a few more months in the bottle to come together. 85% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo and 5% Merlot. (GB)
86 Monsanto Chianti Classico 2008, Tuscany DOCG ($30)
Quite a bit of fresh and dried herbs, dark cherry, hints of spice; a touch simplistic with not a lot of depth, but quite drinkable now. Some roast pork or chicken may open this up. (GB)
/New / Zealand 90 Saint Clair Vicar’s Choice Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Marlborough ($16)
A quintessential New Zealand Sauvignon at a very reasonable price. Pale straw in colour
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//the notes with a nose of passion fruit, grapefruit and guava. Medium-bodied, fruity but crisply dry with great length. (TA)
lime all integrating nicely through the finish. Serve with seasonal vegetables, seafood or chicken. (RV)
87 The People’s Pinot Gris 2010, Marlborough ($17)
88 The People’s Pinot Noir 2010, Central Otago ($17)
The nose shows ripe melon, peach and touches of pear and spice. It’s zippy and friendly on the palate with broad, expressive flavours of pear, apple and light spice. Smooth and delicious. (RV)
91 Margrain Vineyard Home Block Pinot Noir 2008, Northland ($34)
Medium ruby, beautiful nose of generous red fruits and spicy notes, a hint of menthol and subtle oak. Very supple, its delicate fruity texture caresses the tongue and finishes on almost-sweet fruit. A wine built on finesse and elegance that is ready to drink. (GBQc)
89 Villa Maria Private Bin Marlborough Sauvignon 2011, Marlborough ($16)
Aromas of gooseberry, grapefruit, lime and a stream of fresh herbs. The fruits turn a bit tropical on the palate with vibrant gooseberry and
This cleverly packaged Pinot shows ripe red fruits, a note of earthy underbrush, campfire smoke, cedar and spice. It is velvety smooth on the palate with rustic red fruits, and soft tannins through the finish. (RV)
88 Villa Maria Private Bin Marlborough Pinot Noir 2010, Marlborough ($20)
strawberry, cherry and redcurrants, a hint of earthiness, grippy tannins and refreshing, penetrating flavours. Ideal for any time of the year, either on its own or to serve with any type of food. (GB)
87 Niepoort Loureiro ‘Docil’ 2010, Vinho Verde ($24)
Crisp and fresh style with apple, melon, citrus, and mineral, good balance and quite refreshing on the finish. More structure than many Vinho Verde available in the market. A good match with white fish and shellfish. (GB)
A nose of ripe cherry-vanilla, raspberry and wild berry with a savoury touch. The palate shows mature cherry flavours, savoury herbs and woodsy-oaky notes with earth and clove on a smooth and silky frame. (RV)
90 Passadouro Vinho Tinto 2008, Douro ($22)
/Portugal /
89 Niepoort Dialogo 2009, Douro ($24)
89 Niepoort ‘Redoma’ Rosé 2010, Douro ($24)
A delicious rosé that provides all the freshness of a white wine and the structure of a red. Fresh and bright, but finishing dry, with aromas and flavours of
Dense purple-black colour; a nose of blackcurrant, vanilla and spice; medium-bodied, floral-spicy flavours of blackberry and dark chocolate with a firm structure. In a word, delicious. (TA)
Rich and soft, with plum, currant, blueberry and spice; a touch of meatiness and mineral with a fresh, bright finish, a touch of mocha and a long, lingering aftertaste. Lots of character; great with
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64 // September 2012
grilled meat and quite enjoyable to drink on its own. A very good value. (GB)
86 Casa Santos Lima Quinta da Espiga 2009, Tinto Vinho Regional, Lisboa ($10)
Shows scents of dark plum with green herb and a touch of clove. Blackcurrant and plum flavours are supported by moderate dry tannins and brisk acidity on midpalate with more dry tannins on the finish. (SW)
/South / Africa 88 Excelsior Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Robertson ($15)
A classic South African Sauvignon revealing fine aromatic green fruit with grassy and mineral notes. Subtle interplay on the palate between gooseberry and passion fruit with bracing acidity and minerality. (SW)
87 Beyerskloof Chenin Blanc Pinotage 2011, Coastal Region ($20)
This improbable blend of the red Pinotage with Chenin Blanc reveals unusual aromas of dried savoury as well as
floral and ripe fruit scents. Characteristic Chenin citrusy flavours lead off on the palate with red berry fruit in a minor key. An imaginative, wellbalanced wine. (SW)
/Spain / 86 Viña Santa Marina Altara Montua 2011, Vino de la Tierra de Extremadura ($13)
Very clean and fresh with crisp grapefruit and green fruit character supported by refreshing acidity and dry minerality. A good aperitif, equally suitable with shellfish and seafood salads. (SW)
88 Torres Coronas 2009, Catalunya ($14)
Full ruby. Spicy nose with black cherry and dark chocolate notes. Of medium body, the powerful middle palate feels slightly warm. There is enough fruit and oak flavour but the finish is a bit rough due to dry tannins. Better drink it with red meat or rich cheeses within a year or so. (GBQc)
/United / States 92 Signorello Chardonnay Vieilles Vignes 2008, Napa ($52)
Made from 32-year-old vines, this Chardonnay was barrel-fermented for 20 months and malolactic was partially done, bestowing the wine a creamy texture while still retaining acidity. Peach, apple purée, vanilla, citrus and spice are all present in this succulent wine. Drink it over the next 5 years. (ES)
89 Bonterra Chardonnay 2010, Mendocino County ($19) Straw yellow. Green apple, citrus, a touch of buttery oak with an overall impression of liveliness. More oak on the palate, vivid acidity, roundness in the fruity middle palate, lively finish influenced by the acidity. (GBQc)
95 Merryvale Profile 2008, Napa ($170)
The 2008 Profile, the finest that has ever crossed my lips, is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Petit Verdot, 6% Malbec and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon. Simply put, it is a gorgeous, ripe, concentrated and polished red with loads of dark berry fruit, earth, cocoa, vanilla, toast and spice. The finish lingers and lingers. Even though it is approachable, another couple of years in the bottle will further enhance its delight. Drink it from 2014 to 2030. (ES)
92 Merryvale Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Napa Valley ($75)
The 2008 “regular” Cabernet Sauvignon is a concentrated and structured wine that pushes 15% alcohol. Fullbodied, it exudes blackberries, dark cherries, spice and cocoa. The tannins are very much present and somewhat dry at this point, so hold it for 2 years and then drink it until 2024. (ES)
92 Darioush Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Napa ($115) I must admit a certain fondness for the Darioush. The wines, the gorgeous Persian palace–inspired
winery and the staff are all top notch. That being said, their 08 Cab Sauv is truly impressive. Full-bodied and opaque, it unleashes a powerful nose of crème de cassis, blackberries, prunes, smoke, anise, cocoa and mint/ cedar. The tannins will ensure 15 years of longevity. (ES)
91 Long Shadows Sequel Syrah 2007, Columbia Valley, Washington ($62) John Duval of Penfolds fame joined in on this effort. Very dark colour with a ruby-purplish rim, its nose is seductive. Blackcurrant and other black fruits and a touch of cinnamon from the moderate oak make its ripe but fresh nose. Rather thick texture, rich fruity extract and lots of roundness on the palate. Delicious. (GBQc)
90 Conn Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Napa ($30)
Here is an approachable and fruit-driven Cab with plums, blackberries and raspberries combining with the mocha, coffee and toast of the barrel. Mid-weight, supple tannins and excellent length allow for immediate consumption. (ES)
90 Long Shadows Saggi 2007, Columbia Valley, Washington ($44)
A joint venture with the Folonari brothers of Tuscany, it is a blend of roughly equal amounts of Cab Sauv and Sangiovese, plus 19% Syrah. Ripe nose of black fruits with well-controlled oak. Velvety texture with a firm backbone and lots of fruity expression in the glass. Perfect with filet mignon. (GBQc)
90 Long Shadows Feather 2007, Columbia Valley, Washington ($70) Owner Allen Shoup worked with Randy Dunn (of Dunn Vineyards) to produce this pure Cabernet Sauvignon. Very spicy nose with strong cinnamon over black fruits and a fair amount of oak. Tight and finely grained, it is powerful but not massive. Finish is again very tight. (GBQc)
89 Castoro Cellars Tempranillo Reserve 2005, Paso Robles ($19)
Medium-deep garnet, with a smoky oak nose overlying raisins and cherries. Bursts in the mouth with delicious plum and raisin fruit, but perhaps a bit too much alcohol. Drink over the next couple of years. (RL)*
89 Long Shadows Pedestal Merlot 2007, Columbia Valley, Washington ($70)
Expert Merlot winemaker Michel Rolland flew from Bordeaux to make this dark ruby, spicy, generously fruity red that develops chocolate notes in the glass. Concentrated and chewy, it shows intensity in the middle palate as well as in the slightly warm finish. (GBQc)
88 Ravenswood Sonoma County Old Vines Zinfandel, California ($22)
A nose of plum, cherries, cassis, currants, smoky cedar, spice and sandalwood-clove notes. Just lovely on the palate with grit and tannin to match ripe dark and red fruits, mocha-vanilla spices, and a lingering finish. Serve with smoked ribs. (RV)
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for whatever ails you\\
When I was growing up in London there were two beverage-alcohol ads plastered on billboards everywhere. One was for a stout and one for a wine: “Guinness Is Good For You” and “Wincarnis Tonic Wine,” which basically made the same claim as Guinness. I must confess I had my fair share of Guinness as a postgraduate student in Dublin and can attest to its goodness. (Much better, incidentally, than the stout we get here because of the River Liffey water, say the mavens of Moore Street. Forty years ago they had Guinness company inspectors who went around the pubs to ensure that the pints were served at 65°F. With a well-pulled pint of Guinness you could write your initials in the creamy head and they would last until you had finished.) But I had never tasted Wincarnis until very recently at lunch in one of Toronto’s fancy steak houses. I was the guest of Roderick Mackenzie, Director of Ian MacLeod Distillers. Apart from owning Glengoyne Highland Single Malt, Isle of Skye, King Robert II and several other malt whiskies, Ian MacLeod Distillers also own Wincarnis Aperitif Wine. They acquired it when they bought Hedges & Butler in 1998. It was one of the conditions of sale and is now produced by Broadland Wineries in the English county of Norfolk. As to the efficacy of Wincarnis I can’t make an assessment, since at the time I was not suffering from “colds, influenza, bronchitis (or) pneumonia” — all of which it purported to cure in a 1915 ad. But it did promise to safeguard me “against most of the ailments which affect humanity.” The producers state that their tonic wine is rich in vitamins, especially energy-giving vitamin B complex, and can have beneficial effects on your circulation system and blood pressure.
66 // September 2012
final word
by tony aspler
Wincarnis (a name made up of “wine” and “carnis” — Latin for “of meat”) is one of the oldest products on the LCBO product list, first appearing on the shelves in 1958. It’s as brown as boot polish with a nose of dates and a sweet sherry-like taste of black cherries, dates, molasses and chocolate with a herbal note. In a word, it smells rather like Christmas pudding in liquid form. First produced in 1887, Wincarnis was originally called Liebig’s Extract of Meat and Malt Wine, and it was advertised as “the finest tonic and restorative in the world.” The precise recipe is still a closely guarded secret but a little research will tell you that it’s a blend of “enriched wine and malt extract with a unique infusion of selected therapeutic herbs and spices including gentian root, mugwort, angelica root, balm mint, fennel seed, coriander seed, peppermint leaves, cardamom seeds and cassia bark.” The base wine, originally port, is fortified to 18 per cent alcohol, and the product is now vegetarian-friendly since the producers have dropped the meat extract. The brand is very big in the Jamaican community where most of it is sold. Jamaican cooks use it in a variety of ways — in fruit salads, Christmas cake, barbecue marinades and in the preparation of Chinese dishes. They drink it too — mixing it with gin to make a cocktail called Gin and Win. And they also add it to stout and milk. I was a little concerned about the ingredient mugwort, which sounds like something out of Harry Potter. Apparently, it goes by a variety of aliases: felon herb, chrysanthemum weed, wild wormwood, Old Uncle Henry, sailor’s tobacco, naughty man, old man or St John’s plant and is not to be confused with St John’s wort. So if you’re making it at home, don’t include St John’s wort. •
illustration: FRancesco Gallé, www.francescogalle.com
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