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//features
34
24// Delightful by Sean wood
Highlighting the beauty of Sicily.
28// Narrow
by gurvinder bhatia Tasting the best Tuscany has to offer.
30// the spell of jerez by brenda mcmillan
A dreamy trip through sherry country.
34// Civilized
by Matthew Sullivan Recalling the birth of gin and tonic.
37// this man
by carolyn evans-hammond Can Maynard James Keenan put Northern Arizona on the fine wine map?
40// singles by tod stewart
A look at Scotland’s independent scotch bottlers.
44// Eat, Drink, Live: Sancerre by Rosemary mantini
Admiring the centre of France’s Loire Valley. Part three in a series.
49// This can’t be true
by robert hausner The idyllic setting creates the king of cheeses.
24 30 tidingsmag.com
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//Ă la carte 8// from the editors 9// Contributors 11// Conversations Letters to the editor.
13// Simple Living Michael Volpatt
55
14// Umami Joanne Will
17// Anything but
martinis
sheila swerling-puritt
18// Cooking Challenge Jonathan Smithe
19// Bon Vivant Peter Rockwell
43// must try elaine lemm
48// Pours
66
tony aspler
51// primer
//notes 54// the food notes
Peter Rockwell
An appetizing selection of food-friendly faves.
52// Davine
Gurvinder Bhatia
58// The Buying Guide
55// Bouquet Garni
Top wines from around the world scored.
Nancy Johnson
Argentina // p. 59
66// final word
Australia // p. 59-60
Tony Aspler
Canada // p. 60
18
CHILE // p. 60-61 France // p. 61 Germany // p. 61-62 Italy // p. 62-63 New Zealand // p. 63 portugal // p. 63 South africa // p. 63 Spain // p. 63 United States // p. 63-65
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//from the editors
\\
September Issue # 297
happy new year!
by rosemary mantini
Editor-in-chief
Aldo Parise editor@tidingsmag.com
No, don’t check the date on the cover. It is, indeed, September. But, while January may mark the official arrival of a new year on the calendar, September has always represented the unofficial start of the year. Many of us go back to school or back to work; the temperatures are cooling off, and we look forward to a great winter and an even better summer next time around. It feels like a new beginning. Coming to the New World must have seemed like a fresh start to all those intrepid travellers who have made the journey. But, even they didn’t arrive completely unencumbered. Very rarely does anyone start anew from nothing. Wherever we go, we bring along the knowledge, experience and positive elements from the Old World to our new lives. It was truly fortuitous that the immigrants who came and made their home on this continent brought with them recipes along with wine, beer and spirit-making skills. Granted, they may have had to change a technique here and there to accommodate their new environment, but aren’t we better for it? Canada now has a vibrant viticulture industry. We can find a plethora of tastes from around the world just by walking down any main street in this country. Moving from the Old World to the New is a metamorphosis that has allowed a delicious evolution of food and drink.
Contributing Editors
Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart Contributing food Editor
Nancy Johnson Contributing Lifestyle Editor
Rosemary Mantini Columnists
Tony Aspler, Peter Rockwell, Michael Volpatt, Joanne Will, Sheila Swerling-Puritt, Gilles Bois, Elaine Lemm, Jonathan Smithe Contributors
Brenda McMillan, Carolyn Evans-Hammond, Sean Wood, Harry Hertscheg, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Robert Hausner, Matthew Sullivan Tasters
Tony Aspler, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Jonathan Smithe and Gurvinder Bhatia COPY DESK
Lee Springer, Jennifer Croll web editor
Rosemary Mantini Creative by Paris Associates
In this issue, Tidings looks back to the place where it all started. From Sicily to France and beyond, we shine a spotlight on Europe and explore the Old World ways of creating so much of what we enjoy today. So go ahead: dive into an informative read. You’re bound to find a lot to satisfy your thirst and whet your appetite.
Art Direction
Aldo Parise Production
ww+Labs, cmyk design, studio karibü Illustrations & Photography
Matt Daley, Francesco Gallé, Push/Stop Studio, august photography Cover Design
studio karibü
Audited by
8 // September 2011
editorial photo: Justin Johnson
//online
//contributors
+ more on tidingsmag.com
Follow us on twitter and tumblr Quenchbytidings.tumblr.com twitter.com/quenchbytidings As a serious professional writer committed to learning as much as she can about wine, Brenda McMillan drinks the stuff every day. Also an aficionado of travel, food and other Bohemian pursuits, she often leaves the country in the name of research. Her adventures show up in Canadian and American publications like wine thieves in cellars. Find her, glass in hand, at Ms.Ink@mac.com.
Video Interview with Ken Wright, proprietor, winemaker and house chef of Ken Wright Cellars, Oregon.
Q&A What’s the difference between French and Russian tarragon?
Cooking Challenge Preserve the best of summer with healthful Chilled Berry Soup.
Features Take part in The Great Tomato Harvest for fresh recipes, like smoked tomato salsa, tomato-cheese tart and sweet tomato gelato.
Contributing editor Gurvinder Bhatia’s love of wine and food took him from practising law to eating and drinking his way around the world in search of all things delicious. He also writes about wine for the Edmonton Journal, judges international wine competitions, and owns Vinomania wine boutique to support his habit. You can follow his culinary adventures on Twitter @ EdmontonWineGuy.
Learn Gilles Bois introduces us to the next big wine trend — delicious, but little known grapes.
blogs Get your food and wine fix, updated weekly, at Best You Never Had and Kitchen Mama.
Plus!
More original recipes; a daily serving
of food and drink news and views; culinary tips, tricks and techniques.
Chained to an idyll life on the French Côte D’Azur, Robert Hausner focuses his days (and nights) on culinary pursuits writing about interesting food and where to find it “off the beaten track.”
Next Month In Tidings 7th annual maverick chefs issue Visiting Okanagan: Tips and tricks Creating the ideal sauce Wines from the Danube, Austria’s Whites and Portuguese reds 2ème Cru: The best secondary labels
Wine critic and London-trained sommelier Carolyn Evans Hammond is internationally-recognised for her witty and light approach to the topic. Her latest book, Good Better Best Wines, soared to bestseller in Canada and the US within weeks of release, and her work is catalogued on her website: www.wine-tribune.com.
The growth of Cameron Hughes A canadian virtual wine tasting ... And So Much More
tidingsmag.com
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conversations\\
Kylix Media CFO
Lucy Rodrigues Circulation
circ@tidingsmag.com Accounts
Marilyn Barter accounts@tidingsmag.com Advertising Representation Dovetail Communications
National Account Executive Jacquie Rankin: jrankin@dvtail.com 9 05-886-6640 ext 304 Account Manager Dave Chauvin: dchauvin@dvtail.com 905-886-6640 ext. 323 www.tidingsmag.com www.tidingseats.com Now in our 38 th year Kylix Media, 5165 Sherbrooke St. West, Suite 414, Montreal, Quebec, H4A 1T6, Tel: 514.481.6606, Fax: 514.481.9699. Subscription Rates: Canada: $36 per year, $58 per 2 years, USA: $55 per year, Other: $75 per year. Single Copies: $5.95. Tidings, Canada’s Food & Wine Magazine, a registered trademark of Kylix Media, is published 8 times a year: (February/March, April, May/June, July/August, September, October, November, December/January). Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. © 2011 Kylix Media Inc. Printed in Canada. ISSN-0228-6157. Publications Mail Registration No. 40063855. Member of the Canadian Federation of Independent Business.
Tidings uses 10% post-consumer recycled fibres
We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada Periodical Fund (CPF) for our publishing activities.
Finally, an ode to the Brussels sprout! I find that boiling them just brings out the worst in these little guys. I slice them in half and lay them cut-side down in a medium-hot, greased pan. I sprinkle a little salt over them, and cover the pan with its lid. About 20 minutes later, I have perfectly cooked sprouts that are crispy and sweet.
... Why not pair fast food with wine? How about sausage pizza with Zin, or even tortilla chips and spicy salsa with a sparkling rosé? ...
S. Fox, Toronto
Reading Joanne Will’s interview with Gregg Best really turned me off purchasing shrimp. I really don’t want my young children exposed to food that has the potential to harm them. Lucky for us, I’ve found that my local, independent supermarket carries shrimp from BC that’s sustainable, clean and phosphate-free. R. Schlegel, Winnipeg
Matthew Sullivan’s article “Sweet Heresy” made me laugh out loud. Why not pair fast food with wine? How about sausage pizza with Zin, or even tortilla chips and spicy salsa with a sparkling rosé? K. Ford, email
Re: Nancy Johnson’s “The Farmer’s Market”. I sow up to four zucchini plants every year in my garden, and every year I end up wondering what to do with all they produces. Once I’ve given loads to neighbours and food banks, I’m still left with lots! Grilled, baked into bread, tossed with pasta. One must consume them because they don’t freeze well. I send my thanks to Ms. Johnson for her zucchini pancakes recipe. They were crispy, tasty, and we loved them. L. Tomlin, email
Material chosen for publication may be edited for clarity and fit. Please e-mail your comments and questions to editor@tidingsmag.com.
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simple living
by michael volpatt
//having big bottoms
This recipe is pretty easy to prepare. Here is what you will need:
This summer has been quite a whirlwind for my friends and me. A group of us got together and opened a gourmet market in the town of Guerneville, a quaint wine country community in the county of Sonoma. The entire process has been very challenging, but also exciting. We’ve branded the market after a name that comes from the late 1800s at a time when the logging of Redwoods played a big part in the area’s economy. When our research uncovered the name Big Bottom we knew it would be a perfect fit. Over the last six months the team has been developing the menu and building out the space. Part of this process has been a thorough review of my three years of writing for Tidings and has resulted in pulling some of the best recipes from the archives of the magazine to be used in the market. We have also been developing new recipes and have tested a number of sandwich items, side salads, meats, cheese, breads, and much more with friends and family. At a recent backyard barbecue we prepared an Israeli couscous salad that was the hit of the party. The dish is seasoned with curry, which blends nicely with the apples, caramelized onions, cucumber and dried currants that were also part of the tasty salad mix. This dish is prepared with toasted Israeli couscous, which is a larger than the standard tiny couscous that many are used to. Most grocery stores carry this item in the specialty foods aisle. It is sometimes referred to as pearl couscous. It can also be found at Mediterranean or Middle Eastern food markets.
2 1/2 cups of vegetable stock 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 medium sweet onion chopped and caramelized 1/2 cup vermouth 1 3/4 cups of toasted Israeli couscous 1 apple, cored and chopped into bite-sized pieces (about 1/2 cup) 1 medium cucumber peeled, seeded and chopped into bite-sized pieces 1/2 cup dried currants 2 tbsp honey Juice of 1 lemon 2 tbsp mild curry powder (or more to taste)
1. Bring the vegetable stock to a boil. Reduce to medium heat, add couscous and cover. Let simmer until the liquid is almost completely absorbed. There should be a little bit of liquid (very little) left in the pan. This should take about 10 to 12 minutes. 2. While the couscous is simmering, begin to caramelize the onion. Remove the skin and slice into thin rounds. Heat 2 tbsp of olive oil in a sautĂŠ pan and add onions. 3. Begin stirring constantly until translucent and slightly brown. Increase heat to high and deglaze the pan with vermouth. Let it cook down until all of the vermouth has disappeared from the pan. Set aside. 4. When the couscous is done cooking (the pieces should be slightly al dente) remove from the heat and strain out the remaining liquid (not much liquid will come off of the cooked couscous). Place into the refrigerator to cool. 5. In the meantime, chop the apples and cucumber and place into a large mixing bowl. Add the remaining olive oil, currants, honey, lemon and curry powder. 6. Mix well and then add in the cooked couscous. Stir again and sample. Begin seasoning, to your liking, with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Add more salt and pepper as needed and if you like, more curry powder.
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Umami
by Joanne Will
//yorkshire lass
For many in Canada, Yorkshire pudding is a mainstay of Sunday supper, or at the very least, an occasional accompaniment to roast beef dinner. Have you ever wondered about the origins of this humble mixture of milk, eggs, salt, and flour — and the proper way to prepare it? Writer and critic Elaine Lemm set out to answer these questions in her recently published The Great Book of Yorkshire Pudding. Lemm is a Yorkshire lass from Leeds, in the heart of the northern English county. She’s been making Yorkshire pudding for nearly 50 years, since the age of five. “It was the first thing my mom taught me to make. I’m one of seven kids and the eldest daughter, so my job was to help my mom. By the time I was nine, I could cook a full Sunday roast,” says Lemm. Yorkshire pudding has been prominent in British cuisine for the last four centuries — the first known recorded reference to the pudding was in 1737. Until the mid-17th century, the majority of British puddings were not sweet, but savoury; hence the common confusion
14 // September 2011
over its name. When meat was scarce, the eggy dough mixture filled the bellies of workers in the fields, and helped carry the country through two world wars. Originally served on its own with gravy, the pudding has become a mainstay of the British Sunday lunch, promoted to the plate alongside roast beef, vegetables and potatoes. Those outside the British Isles may not know that Yorkshire puddings can be eaten in a variety of ways, though. Fancy a Yorkshire for breakfast or dessert with marmalade or lemon curd, applesauce and cinnamon, or strawberries and cream? How about an oversized Yorkshire pudding filled with Irish stew or chili, or mini-pudding appetizers stuffed with roast beef and horseradish? This is merely a sampling; Lemm’s book contains myriad ideas on what to do with leftover puddings and batter. With so many options, what’s her favourite way to eat and serve Yorkshire pudding? “You can’t not have them at Sunday lunch. I still prefer them served on their own with gravy, but you don’t
find that much anymore. The other thing I really love is Toad In The Hole. It’s such a great supper dish, especially if you’ve got kids. They love it, and it’s quick, relatively cheap, and very filling. I’ve made individual portions in muffin tins and chopped the sausages into thirds, but truly the best Toad In The Hole is made the traditional way, in a large square tin. And if you can accompany it with the onion gravy from the book — it’s fantastic,” says Lemm. Lemm made thousands of puddings while researching the book, the result of which is her “Perfect Yorkshire Puddings” recipe. “I worked on that recipe for a very long time, so that literally anyone could make a successful Yorkshire pudding. I run a web site on British food for the New York Times Company and by far the biggest number of page hits, from the day I started and still, is for Yorkshire pudding. The feedback on it has been phenomenal; I get emails from all over the world, from people saying they’ve never been able to make Yorkshire pudding until now, so it’s very satisfying,” says Lemm. Hopefully, then, the old myth that Yorkshire puddings won’t rise outside their county of origin has officially been busted. But is Lemm’s foolproof recipe the definitive way to make Yorkshire pudding? “Well it’s very different than the way my mom taught me to make them. I thought through talking to people, and with enough research, I would get the definitive way to make Yorkshire pudding, but I didn’t — because there just isn’t one. If it works for you, it works. If you have to make them standing up or sitting down, or outside, or with a hat on your head, so be it,” laughs Lemm. No matter which recipe you prefer, what’s the secret to making great Yorkshire pudding? “It’s kind of a golden rule: you must let the batter rest for at least 30 minutes. If all else fails, make sure your batter is cold, and your fat is really hot, and you really can’t go wrong,” says Lemm.
+ To make your own Toad In A Hole see page 43
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“G RE AT F O O D deser ves
G REAT F RI ENDS”
Or is it the other way around? We always try to wait for our guests to arrive before serving the appetizers, but Sam can never wait. She enjoys making appetizers almost as much as she loves sharing them. Whether she’s entertaining a few friends or hosting a large get-together, the door isn’t even closed before everyone’s asking about the delicious aroma coming from her kitchen.
DO YOU KNOW
SAM?
“It wasn’t hard putting the appetizers together. I steamed the asparagus, doused them in cold water to stop the cooking and dried them. Next I spread out three slices of San Daniele prosciutto from the deli, put down a thin layer of arugula so the prosciutto wouldn’t soak up any moisture, and wrapped five or six spears of asparagus into a prosciutto roll. I cut them across so they looked like sushi, only tasted better. When everyone wanted to know how to make my ‘Italian sushi,’ we all laughed.”
san Danielle proscuitto on cd
SAM LOVES TO SHARE
Whether she prepares them in advance or on the fly, Sam believes you need to start with the best food and a simple idea: Of course Sam has a few misses now and then, but almost every story starts where the food starts, the appetizer…even the wine waits.
Enjoy San Daniele and Mastro deli meats with your friends
Like Sam, you can prepare simple, yet elegant appetizers with a little help from San Daniele and Mastro, traditional Italian-style deli meats. From Prosciutto to pancetta and salami, you’ll find this and other appetizer recipes at ShareMastro.com. Let us know what you think and share your stories. Enter our Share Mastro, Share Italy contest on Facebook @ ShareMastro. Win a trip to Italy for 4! Prize includes $1,000 spending money, a car, cooking class in Rome and a tour of a famous Tuscan Vineyard…Enter Now!
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anything but Martinis
by sheila swerling-puritt
//summer’s not done
1/3 1/3 1/8 1 1/2
I’m not ready to give up entirely on summer — not just yet. One concession I will make to autumn’s inevitable arrival is that I’m willing to ease away from the white spirits of summer and tiptoe into making cocktails with brown spirits. Rum originated in the seventeenth century. It has a romantic history shot through with sugar plantations and pirates. Most rum today comes from the Caribbean. Its lovely sweetness comes from sugarcane boiled down to a rich molasses, which is then fermented and distilled. Some rum is double distilled, yielding darker, sweeter rums. It’s aged in charred wooden casks for at least three years. While spiced rum has become ever so popular in recent years, I like to save it for my cold weather cocktails.
cup Demerara sugar tsp ground cinnamon tsp ground allspice cup half-and-half cream 5 cup vanilla ice cream (slightly softened) Combine all the above ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. Serve in a well-chilled cocktail glass. Dust with freshly grated nutmeg.
Appleton Estate Reserve Pomegranate Cocktail 1 1/2 oz Appleton Reserve Rum 1/2 oz mango nectar 1/2 oz Pama Pomegranate Liqueur 1/2 oz Triple sec
Combine all the ingredients over ice in a cocktail shaker. Shake well and strain into an old-fashioned glass over ice cubes.
3 oz pineapple juice Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake well and strain into a cocktail glass. (Created by the Drake Hotel)
Mount Gay Rum Pumpkin Pie Frappe I realize that this cocktail hints at our upcoming Thanksgiving and Halloween but it will go down perfectly on those still-warm days left to enjoy.
1
1/2
cup Mount Gay Extra Old Rum cup canned pumpkin puree (don’t use pumpkin pie mix)
+ Visit tidingsmag.com/drinks/ for more drink recipes
Swamp Water 2
oz dark rum
1/2 oz Hpnotiq Liqueur 1 1/2 oz fresh orange juice 1/2 oz fresh lemon juice
Mai Tai According to writer Mittie Hellmich, “this is a true classic in the tropical drink genre.” Mai Tai means out of this world.
2 1/2 oz Myers’s dark rum 1 oz orange Curaçao 1/4 oz simple syrup 1/2 oz orgeat* or almond flavoured syrup 1 1/4 oz fresh lime juice 1/2 oz fresh orange juice Shake the ingredients with ice. Strain into an ice-filled Collins glass. Garnish with a slice of orange and a sprig of mint. Serve with straws. …… Check out the coffee aisle of your supermarket for orgeat.
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cooking challenge
//perfect sardines
by Jonathan Smithe
Sarde Ripiene Serves 6
The delight of cooking Old World dishes comes from the simplicity of its ingredients. Salt, olive oil, sardines. The nature of these three elements melds beautifully together. But there are some things you will need to watch out for in order to make this dish sing. First, you’ll need to source your sardines — and that may not be as easy as we think. Most grocery stores no longer carry fresh sardines. Demand has waned over the years so you’ll have to visit your local fishmonger (something I highly recommend). Be wary of frozen sardines. The high oil levels make them turn rancid even in a freezer, and the flesh becomes a mushy mess when thawed. Look for a shiny silver skin and a clean, fresh smell. There’s a good chance the fish will already be cleaned out so you simply need to bring them home and start your prep. I prefer to limit the ingredients. Simply salt both side of the sardine, drop into an oil filled frying pan, and once done add the smallest amount of lemon juice. This is the same way I like to cook smelt, although I sometimes flour them.
18 // September 2011
This recipe for stuffed, baked sardines comes from Rosetta Constantino’s book My Calabria.
1
1/2
dozen fresh sardines, about 1 1/2 lb tsp kosher salt
filling
1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs 1/4 cup freshly grated pecorino cheese tbsp minced flat-leaf parsley tbsp finely minced capers 1/2 tsp grated lemon zest 1 clove garlic, minced 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus more for serving Lemon wedges 2 1
1. Preheat the oven to 400˚F. 2. Remove the backbone from each
sardine by grasping the end of the backbone closer to the head and lifting it out. It usually pulls away cleanly from the flesh, although sometimes it clings. If it does cling, gently work the backbone free with your fingers, damaging the flesh as little as possible. Keep the tail intact. Lay the boneless sardines open “butter-
fly” style. Remove as many of the other fine white bones as you can. Season the fish on both sides with the salt. 3. For the filling: In a small bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, cheese, parsley, capers, lemon zest, garlic, and olive oil. Mix with your fingers until well blended. 4. Using 1 tbsp of the olive oil, generously oil a baking dish large enough to hold six of the butterflied sardines. Arrange six of the sardines in the dish, skin side down. 5. Top with the filling, dividing it evenly and pressing it into an even layer. Top each sardine with another sardine, skin side up. Drizzle with remaining 1 tbsp olive oil. 6. Bake until the fish are sizzling hot and the flesh is white and flakes easily when prodded with a fork, 12 to 15 minutes. Let cool 15 minutes before serving. 7. The dish is best warm, not hot. Divide the sardines among serving plates, drizzle each portion with a little extra virgin olive oil, and accompany with lemon wedges. …… Serve with a Sicilian Insolia or, if you can find it, something from Calabria, and feel the fresh sea breeze.
bon vivant
Illustration: Matt Daley/Shinypliers.com
by peter rockwell
//killer apps & real men
I just bought an iPhone. Do you have any favourite wine-related apps? If you’d asked me a few months ago about apps, I would have suggested going with either the French onion soup or the spinach salad (dressing on the side) because when it comes to smartphoning, I’ve been a Blackberry man since day one. That is until a friend, knowing that I’m a social media addict (that’s @TheRealWineGuy on Twitter, folks) showed me the wonders of the iPhone. I’ve never looked back. Not that Blackberry doesn’t have the capacity; it’s just that the iPhone platform is gorgeous and so easy to use. Ok, enough advertising. You want some cool (and I’m assuming free) applications to play with while waiting at the doctor’s office or in line at the Apple store (oops!). Since I travel a lot I’m always on the hunt for the nearest liquor store in a strange town. The Drink Owl app GPS-es your location and then shows you the nearest shops. It also updates you on the bar specials at local watering holes. For reviews on the go, Canuck writer Natalie MacLean has married her wine reviews and food pairing expertise in her Wine Picks And Pairings app. What’s cool is that you can scan a wine’s barcode with the iPhone camera and the app will pop up Natalie’s comments if she’s tried it. If you’d rather write your own wine reviews, social networking wine site Snooth has an app that lets you update your account and share every sip you take with all the other nerds around the world. Wish you could remember the great bottle you downed at that restaurant last night? The Memorable Wines app lets you take a picture of the label, make notes and even record your comments, and then collects them all in a nifty photo album that you can email to anyone who might respect your opinion.
+ Ask your questions at bonvivant@tidingsmag.com
If Ontario vino is your thing, the Uncork Ontario app is a great resource, as is the Wine Spectator’s Vintage+ app that offers scores and comments on vintages from all the major wine regions. My vote for the app that offers the most bang for your buck (it’s free after all) is The Bond Mixology. The creators have added up every drink Bond has consumed over his movie career — even showing the exact time it appeared on screen. There’s no better way to kill some time. Do real men drink coolers? Let me tell ya, back in my day (somewhere around the latter part of the 20th century) if you were a guy caught with a drink in your hand that wasn’t the colour of beer (with only a slight pass given to a glass filled with a Bloody Caesar or maybe vodka and orange juice) you’d be laughed out of the club ... by the girls. Oh, how times have changed. Today the liquor landscape of the party hardy is dominated by metrosexual, fru fru, ready-todrink schlock that wouldn’t be served with mustard — let alone cut it — a few years ago. But I digress. Yes, Virginia, real men apparently do drink coolers like they’re going out of style. And sales back up this abomination. Call me out of touch, but I still don’t get why modern males seem to think a cooler is cool. I know, it’s the booze factor (most are around seven per cent abv), they’re easy to chug-a-lug and girls drink them too so it gives the guys something to talk with them about. And, truth be told, many producers are looking to European-style, cocktailoriented mixes that don’t taste too bad. Of course, my glass is always half full. With any luck most of the cooler drinkers of today will graduate to a more sophisticated beverage. I just hope it’s not White Zinfandel.
tidingsmag.com
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Portugal torial to monday
Light, fresh, delightful…. Portugal’s popular white Vinho Verde wine offers value and character like no other wine in the world. Yet, it opens the question that wine lovers contend with every time they discover a unique wine taste.
How do you pronounce it? Simple. Just say “veengyo vaird.” Actually, however you say it, northern Portugal’s light, and fresh, low-alcohol white wine from the Minho region is a taste worth getting to know. Vinho Verde is unique and offers some of the best value wine on the market today. The brands contain aromas and flavours from blends and single varietals that make delicious and refreshing wine with a pleasing fruit-acid balance. These are highly distinctive wines, light and some are slightly sparkling. The taste relies on the history, the terroir and the people who produce it.
TAKE A TRIP THROUGH THE HISTORY OF VINHO VERDE
Had you visited the Minho only 20 years ago, it would have been a vibrant green hodgepodge of all and any crops suited to a rainy, temperate climate.
Cows and sheep mingled with fruit, olive, oak, eucalyptus and pine trees, all woven into a landscape packed with vegetables and flowers. Everywhere, tall granite pergolas wired with indigenous wine grapes held together a vastly dense, food, people, linen, lace, granite and ancient culture. Today, a web of autoroutes makes the journey a mere 90-minute trek north from Oporto to the Minho River. You can go to Monção in the morning and taste stunning single-varietal Alvarinho on the banks of the Minho River, then head south for lunch on the rich and traditional food in beautiful Ponte de Lima. Detour to the amazing producers of Loureiro and Vinhão vineyards near Ponte de Lima. Then, return to Oporto in time for an aperitif glass of another Vinho Verde.
The trip through Vinho Verde country will take you along a path that starts with Celtic tribes before the Romans, extends through centuries of Visigoths and Moors, and past the birthplace of the kingdom of Portugal in the stunning medieval town of Guimaraes. At every turn, you will pass vineyards that reflect the changing face of Vinho Verde wine. In Vinho Verde, the best of the local, indigenous white grapes are starting to shine.
VINHO VERDE’S TASTE AND TERROIR
To capture a real sense of the Vinho Verde vineyards, it requires accepting granite as terroir, not just countertops (and houses, window sills, tables, sign posts, vine posts, roads and sculptures, where the Vinho Verde region is concerned). Granite makes it tough to plant a vineyard. It took 40 tons of dynamite to unleash enough fractured rock to plant the vines.
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l advero come MICROCLIMATES AND MOUNTAINS
The Peneda, Gerês, Cabreira, Alvão, Marão and Montemuro mountains (Serras) to the east of the Minho form an amphitheatre of microclimates facing the Atlantic Ocean. From pre-history onward, a metamorphosis of rock and granite occurred. Erosion followed with the exposure of ancient crystalline and more granite. There are a few schist veins, no more than six miles wide, running in short ribbons north to south. Everything else is granite. Vineyards are planted at altitudes from 150 to 1,300 feet. An unusual, yet typical, Minho phenomenon is a series of broad, flat valleys lying sharply against steep granite slopes. River erosion widened the valley floors without reducing the hard angle of the granite. The results? Unique fertile islands of vineyards, agriculture – and people. This is a land of indigenous grapes – some 30 unique Vitis vinifera call Vinho Verde home, making it one of the largest appellations in Europe. Not every grape gives great wine in every vineyard. Alvarinho, the lustiest of
Vinho Verde’s white grapes, presents its credentials at the far northern border. Just across the Minho River from the Monção and Melgaço sub-appellation is its neighbour, the Spanish Albarino.
TERROIR TRIALS
WHERE’S THE CABERNET?
WHAT’S NEW
The true Vinho Verde wine from Europe’s Fast West Coast is white, light, fresh and – unlike many white wines from hot, sunsoaked vineyards – presents a pleasantly low alcohol level while offering great value. Its taste compares to Riesling. Here, the grapes are indigenous to the land. While some may share classic French DNA, centuries of adaptation make the search nearly irrelevant so, instead of trying to fit the unique grapes into a classic category, taste them outside the box – or, better yet, in the glass. The Vinho Verde Wine Commission (CVRVV) has taken the rather dramatic approach of recommending an A list of seven white grapes and eight red grapes. These are the ones growers focus on as new techniques and new generations come into play.
There are experiments going on at many wineries to see if it is simple neglect that has let some grapes to place second on the quality ladder.
Two specialties that light up any day are the sparkling and the rosé wines. Ever since the region produced the first rosé Vinho Verde in 1992, this new style of Vinho Verde has taken off, inspired by the increasing worldwide popularity of rosé wines. Based on the red grapes of the region, particularly the Espadeiro and the red-fleshed Vinhao grape, these summer aperitif wines come in both dry and off-dry styles. Sparkling Vinho Verde is another delicious way of appreciating the wines of the Minho. All the grape varieties are used, but some of the most prestigious are made with Alvarinho.
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WHITE VINHO VERDE
Here’s a snapshot of the seven white grapes you’ll usually see on labels, their tastes, and where they are planted. Vinho Verde wines generally are between 8% and 11.5% alcohol, except Alvarinho, up to 14%. For more information, go to cvrvv.pt/en/vinhoverde. Grape Alvarinho Arinto Avesso Azal Batoca Loureiro Trajadura
Style Aromatic minerality, high quality, higher alcohol and body than most Steely crispness, fragrant, high yield Strong aroma, well-balanced, high quality Delicate and intense aroma, slightly acid and fruity Undefined aromas, smooth, high quantity High quality, high quantity, distinctive floral aroma Delicate and distinctive
Best Location Monção and Melgaço Everywhere but Monção. Also known as Pedernã Baião, Cinfães and Sousa Basto, Sousa and Amarante Basto Lima and Cávado, grown throughout the region Monção and Ave, planted in most areas
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The results are blend that hit the mark for taste and terroir. Within the list, some do better in the far north at the Spanish border, some better in the coastal valleys and some better in the mountain foothills farther from ocean fog and breezes. The region has mostly Atlantic influences while vineyards farther south and inland pick up Mediterranean influences. Other white grapes permitted in the Vinho Verde, known as the B list, are Cascal, Cainho, Fernão Pires, Lameiro, Malvasia-Fina, Sao Mamede, etc.
VINHO VERDE GASTRONOMY In the Vinho Verde region, cooks have always been locavores. One of the best attributes of Vinho Verde is its natural, local pairing with seafood, salads and vegetables. Recipes from the Minho are based on local food more than anywhere else in Portugal. And spices? The Portuguese discovered the Spice Route, the Moors ruled them for 300 years, and their former colonies are in South America, Southeast Asia and South Africa. The food reflects this taste for the spice of life.
Bacalhau, the salted cod, created in the 14th century for those long sea voyages, is served every which way. If you want to try it, soak it in water for 12-14 hours, changing the water frequently until most of the salt is removed and you have what is essentially fresh and delicious fish. You’ll also find sea bass, swordfish, fish stew, clams, lobster, prawns, crabs, squid and octopus on menus. The lamprey (something like an eel without a head) is a true springtime delicacy (and some say acquired taste) but very hard to find. You can also serve Vinho Verde with pork, kid, veal, or lamb.
For example, you’ll find dishes with cumin, paprika, piri piri (a very hot chilli relish) and curries. The light, dry and slightly fizzy taste of white Vinho Verde is a great balance that doesn’t clash with the spices.
On the vegetable side, potatoes show up everywhere. If Portugal has a national soup, it’s caldo verde, made with kale (or collards or turnip greens), onions, garlic, potatoes and chorizo. It is served both at Portuguese McDonald’s and Michelin star restaurants.
As a seafaring nation on the west coast of Europe, fish has always been important. Grilled, seasonally fresh, sardines on a plate with roasted red peppers and boiled potatoes are a signature dish.
There’s a lot of experimenting going on in the vineyards and the wineries, so stay tuned. The taste adventure is far from over. Among all the wine producing nations, Portuguese don’t take exploration lightly.
VINHO VERDE: THE FACTS
The name, Vinho Verde, refers to young wine. The white wine isn’t “green” (literally, “verde”) in colour or in taste. It is released within three to six months after harvest and so is similar in its youthfulness to what you’d find in Joven (young) wines of Spain. Officially established in 1908, Vinho Verde is one of the oldest demarcated wine regions of the world. Wine must be at least 8% alcohol and usually no more than 11.5% alcohol. An exception to this rule is the sub region of Monção and Melgaço, where wines up to 14% alcohol are produced from the Alvarinho grape.
On the Vinho Verde label you will see “Denominação de Origem Controlada” (DOC). This indicates that you are holding a top-level wine, like a French AOC from the Médoc, for instance. The DOC identifies geographical boundaries, maximum yields, recommended and
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permitted grape varieties and minimum and maximum alcohol levels (like AOC). The DOC identifies geographical boundaries, maximum yields, recommended and permitted grape varieties and minimum and maximum alcohol levels (like AOC).
THE VINHO VERDE GUARANTEE When you buy Vinho Verde you buy great taste, but you also buy authenticity and transparency that the wine you open is real Vinho Verde, true to its grapes and its terroir. The Vinho Verde Wine Commission (CVRVV) requires the following from every one of the 21,000 producers in the region
l advero come Vintage and Production Report. These account for every ton of grapes at harvest and how much wine is produced. These reports are essential for the management of the viticultural market and for the producer. These reports confirm consistency from the vineyard to the bottle and guard against wines from other regions or countries entering the wine stream.
Every case of wine that leaves a winery has its unique bill of transport. This is part of a larger system that gives importers, distributors, restaurants and retailers assurance that the wine they sell is the wine that left the winery. Seals of Guarantee and Authenticity. A wine that says “Vinho Verde” has to undergo a taste test to be sure it tastes like Vinho Verde. Each seal has a unique number. Each number can be traced right back to the winery and to the actual tank where the wine was made.
FOR MORE INFORMATION Getting to know Vinho Verde, the wine, and
the Minho region, are as easy as enjoying the lively fresh taste.
VINHO VERDE WINE COMMISSION
Comissão de Viticultura da Regiao dos Vinhos Verdes vinhoverde.pt, info@vinhoverde.pt The website has great interactive maps of vineyard and winery locations and touring routes in this northern section of Portugal. The site is up-to-date and nearly all content is available in English. The commission is located in a historic town house in Oporto. The commission’s staff speaks English, Spanish and French and they are quick to offer a friendly reply to questions.
VISIT PORTUGAL visitportugal.com A comprehensive Portugal tourism portal with an amazing amount of information, regularly updated, in English and several other languages. Here you’ll find annual religious and cultural festivals such as the feast of the Holy Spirit during the Roman Catholic Holy Week, with the most historic festival in Braga, in the Minho. The feast of Sao Joao, celebrated June 23rd and 24th in the evening becomes a virtual riot of events, including the annual barcos rabelos, the boat race on the Douro River at Oporto featuring teams from the Port houses. Because of Portugal’s temperate climate, most festivals
and events are held outdoors, including music, dance, equestrian, medieval, and community celebrations. There are geoparks, hot springs and spas. Radical sports from surfing and rock climbing to hang gliding, sailing and riding the river rapids abound. The website also features places to stay, restaurants, maps, and travel itineraries.
POUSADAS OF PORTUGAL pousadas.pt These are historic hotels converted from palaces, monasteries, and manor houses. The network runs throughout Portugal. The website identifies the hotels by type, from luxury to basic. Pousadas are in the Minho and the Trás-os-Montes mountain regions, home of Portugal’s largest national park, Parque Nacional da Peneda Gerês. Or take advantage of the coastal villages and resorts, such as Valença do Minho and Vila Nova de Cerveira. They are packed in July and August but otherwise it’s easy to find accommodations. Some offer great surfing and all offer great seafood restaurants.
BY Sean Wood
As you can guess, waking up in the heart of Sicily is one word: delightful. But visiting this imposing and stunningly beautiful island in March is not quite the same as doing so in high summer. This part of the Mediterranean can be quite cool, rainy and windy at this time of year, as the first few days bore out. The country — and one quickly begins to think of Sicily as a land unto itself — also boasts widely different climatic conditions, from very high elevations in wild mountain ranges to fertile plains and valleys and beautiful beaches on many outlying islands. As a richly fertile island at the centre of the sea lanes of the Mediterranean, Sicily has, over thousands of years, been a prime target for numerous invaders. Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Nor-
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mans, Spanish and the French have all put their stamp on the island, which is a treasure trove of historical and archaeological remains. This rich tapestry has added enormous layers of complexity, not to mention more recent phenomena such as the pervasive influence of the Mafia. Sicily’s turbulent past certainly presents obstacles to working toward common goals. Producers who make up Assovini Sicilia, a non-profit organization dedicated to the marketing and sustainable development of Sicilian wine culture, deserve a great deal of credit for working together effectively to promote the island’s wine as a whole. This is no small achievement
in a place where people, shaped by their frequently wild landscape and tempestuous history, can be fiercely passionate and individualistic. The growing success of Sicilian wines today is, in part, a triumph over the burdens of the historical past. My focus was on Sicily’s new-wave wines, especially those made from indigenous and often very ancient grape varietals. To give some perspective, Sicilian viticulture is about the same size as Australia’s, and roughly the same as Tuscany and Piedmont combined. At one time it was even larger, but with the spotlight now on quality, lesser quality bulk wines are going out of production. The emergence of Sicily as a modern wine culture is very recent. This revolution really gathered steam around the 1980s, led by a core group of inspired winemakers. Among them was a dynamic but as yet little-known operation run by the Planeta family. At the time, Sicily was still generally viewed as backward, known principally for producing the fortified wines of Mar-
Planeta wines’ Santi, Francesca and Alessio Planeta
sala, by then in serious decline. Planeta was a leading force in laying out a dramatic new direction for Sicilian winemaking. In 1985, the Planeta family started experimenting with both indigenous and international grape varieties at their Ulmo vineyard on the shores of Lake Arancio in western Sicily. Using modern methods of viticulture and vinification, they were soon achieving spectacular results. While in Sicily, I had the pleasure of spending time as a dinner guest of Alessio Planeta, chief winemaker and vision-
ary leader of Planeta’s younger generation. Reflecting back on the successful Planeta strategy, Alessio made it clear that the essential first step was to demonstrate that Sicily could excel at producing wellknown international varieties. Without doing this, he stated, it would have been impossible to gain attention for Sicily’s own indigenous grapes. Planeta quickly gained accolades for producing fine Chardonnay, Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, varieties by which the best winemakers around the world are judged.
Car ricante
Mount Etna’s ancient historical white variety is grown at high altitudes, primarily on the south and east slopes. Although somewhat in the shadow of Etna’s spectacular new reds, it is capable of producing complex, long-aging wines and is experiencing a quiet rebirth.
Perhaps more important for the long term, blends of traditional Sicilian and international varieties were also immediate hits. Since then Planeta has never looked back. Increasingly, like other leading Sicilian producers, they are now making more wines exclusively from fine indigenous grapes. Today, the operation boasts 371 hectares of vineyards and five wineries throughout Sicily, soon to be joined by a sixth on the slopes of Mount Etna, possibly Sicily’s most exciting wine region. Sicily’s new reputation has been built mostly on its outstanding reds, most notably Nero d’Avola. The island’s surprisingly fine dry whites deserve to be better known. Here is a sampling of the best I tasted.
Benanti Bianco di Caselle 2009, Etna DOC
Another really interesting Carricante showing a complex bouquet with pungent burnt notes, suggesting impact of volcanic soil together with bright lemony and mineral notes. Attractive, soft, lemony fruit in the mouth, with creaminess and earthy minerality giving additional texture. Finishes The Terre Nere version undergoes malolactic fervery dry. mentation and subsequent aging for an extended
92_ Tenuta delle Terre Nere Carricante 2010, Etna IGT (Barrel Sample)
period on the lees. It is mellow-flavoured ripe melon with a creamy, almost buttery leesy character but lively acidity, and with a solid core of minerality, conducive to graceful development over time.
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This ancient and noble grape originated in nearby Campania, separated from Sicily by the Straits of Messina. It can rival classic international varieties in complexity and age-worthiness.
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Planeta Cometa 2009, Sicilia IGT
One of Planeta’s most successful white wines, Cometa is made from 100% Fiano, grown in the Menfi region. Complex nose has floral, citrusy, herbal and mineral notes transitioning to grapefruit and tropical fruits on the palate. Vibrant natural acidity gives a cleansing fresh lift on the finish. Drink now or hold for 3 to 4 years.
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Planeta La Segreta Bianco 2009, Sicilia IGT Very drinkable, well-balanced blend of 50% Grecanico, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Viognier and 10% Fiano. It shows stone fruit with tropical and citrus notes and is full-flavoured yet refreshingly light on the palate. Serve as an aperitif or with Mediterranean-style seafood.
catarratto
A major indigenous variety native to the western province of Trapani. It is designated DOC in several western regions. Formerly used mostly in the production of Marsala, it is now showing excellent qualities as a single grape as well as useful for blending.
One of Sicily’s most successful resurgent classic white varieties is Insolia (aka Inzolia or Ansonica, as it is also known in Tuscany where a small amount is planted). In Sicily it is most heavily planted in Agrigento, Palermo and Caltanissetta regions. Insolia works brilliantly when blended, but shows star qualities as a single grape. While it can thrive in several regions, the most vibrant examples I tasted were from Palermo province.
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Donnafugata
Chiarandà 2008, Contessa Entellina DOC
Donnafugata’s star dry white is a 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Insolia showing delightful mellow honeysuckle, hazelnut and citrus aromatics that also deliver on the palate. Supple flavours harmonize with excellent natural acidity, mineral grip and a subtle lick of creamy butter on the finish.
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89_
Baglio di Pianetto Ficiligno Viognier/Insolia 2010, Sicilia IGT
From an excellent producer in Palermo region, this exhibits signature Viognier stone fruit, especially apricot in the foreground shows. Very fresh citrus notes, lively acidity and zesty minerality reflect Insolia varietal style on the finish. This harmonious blend brings out the best in both grapes.
Donnafugata Vigna di Gabri 2009, Contessa Entellina DOC
70% Ansonica (Insolia), 25% Chardonnay and 5% other varieties. This oak-aged wine from the celebrated Contessa Entellina DOC in the province of Palermo offers mellow buttery, lightly floral, citrus and tropical fruit notes wrapped in creamy smoothness. Contrasting brisk acidity and excellent minerality permit graceful aging up to a decade.
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WineAcces-Final.pdf 1 11/05/2011 08:27:38 a.m.
Also native to western Sicily, this grape is soft on the palate with moderate acidity and a sensation of fruity sweetness. It is a pleasant aperitif and pairs well with lighter Mediterranean dishes.
Tenuta Rapitalà Piano Maltese Bianco 2009, Sicilia IGT
A blend of native Grillo and Catarratto with small components of international varieties, all grown at 400 metres elevation in the Rapitalà estate in Palermo province. This is a generously fruity Mediterranean-style wine with plenty of stone fruit and moderate acidity. Easy to drink and to pair with flavourful fish and shellfish dishes.
Tenuta Rapitalà Casalj CatarrattoChardonnay 2009, IGT Sicilia
Giacomo and Antonio Rallo from donnafugata
Ripe citrus, mineral and floral overtones with a suggestion of buttery spiciness on the nose. Ripe lemon citrus flavour is more dominant in the mouth, backed up by well-calibrated acidity and good mineral grip.
86_ Tenuta Rapitalà 2010, Alcamo DOC
100% Catarratto Lucido. Melon, citrus and honeyed scent with clean, fresh yellow fruit, pleasantly fresh acidity, a lick of mineral and a lightly buttery sensation on the finish. Great value in Italy. C
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Riflessi di Sole Insolia _Avide 2008, Vittoria DOC
The Vittorio DOC in Ragusa is generally warmer, with the vineyards situated at lower altitudes. This one has aromatic melon and citrus character which carry through faithfully on the palate, together with attractive gravelly mineral, creamy texture and well-behaved acidity. Finishes with citrusy and mineral freshness.
89_ Duca di Salaparuta Colomba Platino Insolia 2009, Sicilia IGT
Inviting scent of ripe melon with floral notes and a whiff of honey open the way for deliciously ripe yellow fruit flavours balanced by invigorating acidity and a light touch of mineral. Finishes with an ethereal trace of tropical fruit.
91_ Baglio di Pianetto Insolia 2010, Sicilia IGT
The refined bouquet reveals gentle floral fragrance with mineral and fine citrus notes. Generous, limpid yellow fruit in the mouth comes in a lovely creamy package with gritty minerality, almond and lingering floral and fruit sensations on the finish. A deftly balanced wine that really conveys the virtues of this excellent native grape. •
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Nar row
Characterizing Tuscan wines narrowly would be a mistake. There is as much diversity within Tuscany as there is between Italy’s various regions. Sangiovese may be the
by gurvinder bhatia
workhorse grape, but it comes in so many different styles due to the region’s diverse microclimates and the extraneous number of genetic clones that exist in the vineyards. It forms the major component of Chianti (Italy’s most globally recognized wine), Carmignano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (clone known as Prugnolo Gentile), and Morellino di Scansano (clone known as Morellino). Sangiovese is also the sole varietal in Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso di Montalcino (the Sangiovese Grosso clone is traditionally used in these wines, but it is not mandatory).
Perhaps the wines with the most caché and that have generated the greatest interest over the past quarter century are the SuperTuscans. While there are no rules or guidelines with respect to the composition or production of these bottles, their origins are rooted in wines blending Sangiovese with “international” varietals such as Cabernet (Antinori’s Tignanello being one of the first) and with wines composed solely of “international” varietals such as Cabernet (Tenuta S. Guido’s Sassicaia being one of the first) that originally fell outside the traditional wine producing DOC(G) laws. This opened the door for other winemakers to experiment with their own blends and for additional plantings of varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. The modernization of the DOC(G) laws (a gradual and slow process) now allows the inclusion of wines that originally fell outside the rules, such as the Super-Tuscans. But there also appears to be a movement back to the traditional wines of the area made with native grape varietals, natural winemaking and judicious, if any, use of oak. Tuscany is not just the land of the iconic Brunello and Super-Tuscans, often only accessible to wine collectors. It is a region possessing numerous interesting wines made with unique grape varietals that express the warmth of both the people that produce them and of the Tuscan sun.
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Col d’Orcia Moscadello di Montalcino ‘Pascena’ DOC 2008, Tuscany ($60/375 ml)
Absolutely delicious dessert wine with rich aromas of ripe pear, apple and peach with plenty of ripe flavours of pineapple, apple and pear, great balance between sweetness and acidity and a long, long finish.
Donatella Cinelli Colombini Chianti Superiore DOCG 2008, Tuscany ($26.99)
Classy and elegant with bright plum, juicy cherry and soft mineral character, great texture, medium bodied with silky tannins and a long, long minerally finish.
Mazzei Serrata Belguardo Maremma IGT 2007, Tuscany ($29.99)
Lots of bright and fruity aromas of currants and crushed berries, full bodied with soft, silky tannins and a long finish. Packed with fruit. A blend of Sangiovese and Alicante.
Donatella Cinelli Colombini ‘Leone Rosso’ Orcia DOC 2009, Tuscany ($30)
Dark fruit-driven aromas, full flavoured with supple tannins and lots of berry, mineral and cherry character. Long and rich,
extremely well balanced, so youthful and impressive with great approachability and drinkability. Sangiovese and Merlot.
Capezzana Vin Santo di Carmignano Riserva DOC 2005, Tuscany ($45/375 ml)
Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006, Tuscany ($68)
Loads of blackberry and amarena cherry aromas and flavours, with a full body, tight, firm mid-palate, ripe chewy tannins and a long, long finish. Multi-layered and beautiful with loads of fruit, yet refined and elegant with so much flavour. This will only get better.
An absolutely stunning wine that encompasses everything that a classic dessert wine should. Rich but fresh with aromas and flavours of apricot, raisin, butterscotch, and nuts, THE CONTINI BONACOSSI FAMILY AT CAPEZZANA complex and multi-layered with perfect balance and great acidity. Will go down as a classic. Barrel sample.
Triacca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano ‘Santavenere’ DOCG 2008, Tuscany ($30)
Complex and effusive aromas of mineral and berry, hints of flowers, fresh and approachable with firm, silky tannins and a long, long, fruit-driven finish. Honest and well crafted. A 90/5/5 blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Colorino.
Triacca Chianti Classico Riserva ‘La Madonnina’ DOCG 2008, Tuscany ($36)
Rich aromas of dark cherry with flavours of morello cherry, blackberry and plum with hints of earth, full firm tannins, a touch of dark chocolate, and a freshness on the long, albeit tight finish. Wonderful structure and flavours that will benefit and evolve with another year or two in the bottle.
Col d’Orcia Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2009, Tuscany ($36.99)
A clean, juicy, fruit-driven wine with cherry, plum and raspberries, good structure, mineral with fine tannins and a fresh finish. Well balanced and delicious from the originator of this style of wine.
Capezzana Carmignano ‘Villa di Capezzana’ DOCG 2007, Tuscany ($48)
Intense aromas of blackberries and cherries follow through to a powerful palate with great freshness and rich blackberry and cherry flavours, spice and an incredible long finish. A classic Carmignano. Sangiovese (80%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (20%).
Isole e Olena Syrah ‘Collezione di Marchi’ IGT 2004, Tuscany ($68)
Complex and rich aromas and flavours of blackberry, mineral with a touch of spice with a full-bodied palate, silky tannins and a long, smooth finish.
Frescobaldi Brunello di Montalcino ‘Castelgiocondo’ DOCG 2004, Tuscany ($80) Dark, ripe aromas of blackberry and earth with cherry and berry flavours and a touch of meatiness, full, silky tannins with a seductive, caressing finish.
Col d’Orcia Cabernet ‘Olmaia’ Sant’Antimo DOC 2005, Tuscany ($100) Dark ruby with alluring aromas of currant and mineral, massive dark fruit flavours with an amazing structure, full bodied with super silky tannins yet chewy and powerful. One of Tuscany’s best Cabernets.
Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva ‘Poggio al Vento’ DOCG 2004, Tuscany ($125)
Amazing aromas of crushed berries, earth, blackberry and violet with an incredibly full body, multi-layers of velvety tannins, so much complexity and a long, long finish. Develops wonderfully in the glass, becoming more and more rich but still possesses that classic fresh house style.
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2005, Tuscany ($225) Consistently one of the best Super-Tuscans. Complex, rich and sleek with massive yet fresh blackberry, cherry and savoury aromas and flavours, multi-layered with firm, silky tannins and a hugely long, fruit-driven finish. •
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by Brenda Mcmillan I am sitting in the royal box (a special privilege) in the indoor arena at the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art in Jerez, Spain. Elegant riders and exquisite horses that range from all white and dappled shades of grey to dark chocolate parade so close that the sweet equine scent of concentration and effort wafts over me. They prance, dance, turn and intertwine, keeping time to Spanish music. I smile, totally engrossed with the show but still aware of the eyes of the riders sliding my way as they pass. I don’t look like a princess; they wonder who I am. Later, the horses leap high into the air, kicking all four feet at once — an extremely impressive trick that seems to defy gravity. I leave, inspired and impressed, my back straight, my head held regally high and my hat at a jaunty angle. Let them wonder.
My magical week in Jerez de la Frontera, an old, old wine city in the south of Spain, was a mixture of exploring sherry bodegas, horses and Flamenco, roaming footloose around the city, and eating and drinking (very well). Time passes differently there, as days seem to last forever unless you fall into the siesta habit. Hotel Bellas Artes, once a 17th century palace but now a boutique hotel, has high ceilings, wonderful architecture, very helpful and resourceful staff, and rooms with siesta-inducing beds. Some feature
30 // September 2011
tall doors to a balcony that overlooks a plaza and the Cathedral (with its bells). Just down the street is the narrow south gate in a section of ancient wall. History lessons abound. As do restaurants. Eating and drinking are important and enjoyable pursuits in Jerez. Most people choose sherry with meals, and not wine, which makes sense because there is a sherry match for every course, from foie gras (a medium-sweet Oloroso) to a rich, sweet, slightly smoky dessert appropriately called tocino del cielo, or bacon of heaven (sweet PX).
Today, like most, I secure a table with a jaunty umbrella in front of El Gallo Azul (The Blue Rooster), a popular resto/bar in a unique rounded building. It is about five in the afternoon. The plaza is now teeming with people; two hours earlier, it was deserted in favour of siesta. Friends and families meet over glasses of coffee (the best I had in Spain) or a Fino and a tapa. Or just to talk. The voice of the lottery ticket vendor is as loud and invasive as an alarm clock, but he lures a few optimistic or desperate buyers. Babies in strollers are admired, their cheeks chucked, their mothers proud. Teens in school uniforms
form loose groups. I roost, happy to be sipping and snacking like everybody else. In a while, I will meld with throngs of shoppers in the nearby labyrinth of narrow, twisting, pedestrian-only streets.
Jerez is a hill town. The Cathedral, almost at the top, is not quite as lofty as the nearby Alcazar, a Moorish fortress with solid stone walls built in the 13th century. Its decorative yet highly functional design was meant to keep its inhabitants safe, happy and productively self-efficient, so included extensive (now excavated) baths, water features, a mosque, a cistern, inviting gardens with an Edenesque variety of fruits and vegetables, olive trees and a press room for the oil. It is a gorgeous and well-preserved oasis with tower views of the town and the distant white-and-green-striped vineyards. A mouse would not be able to sneak up on the Alcazar, let alone an invading army. The undulating hills of vineyards where the grapes for sherry are grown look white from a distance. This jaw-droppingly gorgeous scenery is the result of unusual soil called albariza (pronounced “albareetha”). Made up of calcium carbonate (chalk), clay and ancient fossils, this moonscape of white and off-white soil is perfect for grapes because it reflects sunshine to ripen the fruit and absorbs and holds moisture from spring rains to water roots through hot dry summers. From afar, it looked like vines were growing in talcum powder, but up close, the soil is clumpy and dense. Viewed from atop a hill, clouds sent shadows sailing across the landscape like they were dark ships on a heaving white sea. Sherry grapes are two varietals particularly well suited to albariza. Palomino, a white grape, is used
Photos: ROBERT LOPEZ
for dry sherries such as Fino, Manzanilla, Amontillado, Oloroso and Palo Cortado. These wines are completely fermented, so start off dry. Sweet sherries are made from Pedro Ximénez (PX), a white grape picked and then left to raisin in the sun. Fermentation is stopped at around 17 per cent alcohol, leaving a naturally sweet, dark wine. To confuse matters, dry and sweet wines are often blended to make house-style sherries like Creams and off-dry Olorosos. Sherry bodegas (cellars) are as numerous in Jerez as Flamenco dancers.
At Bodegas Williams & Humbert, I wander along the rows and stacks of black barrels with their mysterious white markings. They are as peacefully sleeping as parishioners in church. Indeed, the massive building housing 30,000 casks of sherry boasts towering columns supporting a cathedrallike arched roof. I stop and inhale deeply. Cool, still, silent and dark with aromas of yeast, dry fruit and old dust, it is intoxicating. Bodegas occupy city blocks like they’ve inhabited the space forever, which they mostly have. Each has a unique story and wines. The commonality is the quality of their sherry. Bodegas González Byass is a fifth-generation family-owned business that started in 1835 and now houses 42 million litres of wine in its bodegas. The busiest wine cellar in Europe, with 240,000 visitors
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“Flamenco was born in Andalusia, but is a citizen of the world.” The dancers stand across from each other on the small stage. Her dress, ruffled and long, holds her in a tight embrace. He is wearing a white shirt open at the neck and tight black pants, and is as lean and muscular as a panther. A few notes suggestive of an Arabian melody trickle from the guitar. The percussionist joins in with a
seductive beat and the dancer moves her hands like a Gypsy, then her arms as the trickle of notes becomes a stream then a torrent. The first stomp of her heel is loud, sudden and powerful; it sends electricity surging through me. It is followed by a staccato story of passion, emotion and desire. She challenges him, dares him, and then seduces us all. He is strong, agile, focused, extreme, demanding. They duel until exhausted and the crowd shouts Olé! I feel weak; my heart pounds as if I had been the dancer. annually, it has a proficient system that includes a train for moving people along on tours. Its Tio Pepe brand of Fino is famous. Flamenco, horses, art and sherry combine at the Bodegas Grupo Estévez museum, art gallery and winery. A collection of old labels is across from a collection of Picasso studies as well as works from other international and local artists. Flamenco comes into play through portraits of Lola Flores, a Jerez dancer as famed for her temper as she was for her footwork. At the back of the winery there is a full stable for their award-winning team of carriage horses. Perfectly matched Andalusians, these beautiful beasts are as much a passion for their owners as their sherry. Spaniards are very proud of their horses. And their bulls. Off the beaten track in charming El Puerto de Santa María, family-owned Bodega Osborne is well recognized in Spain because of El Toro, the black bull
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icon that graces labels, signs and billboards. Although El Toro is more than 50 years old, he is a relative newcomer to the company Thomas Osborne started in 1772. Bodega Osborne is very pretty with whitewashed buildings, red tile roofs and shady benches for people awaiting tours and generous sherry samples. Back in Jerez, Bodegas Fundador Pedro Domecq makes Harveys Bristol Cream, the best-selling sherry in the world and under (British) royal warrant since 1890. This product is a blend of 70 sherries that range in age from three to 20 years. While the company also makes a full line of other quality sherries under different labels, a few Harveys sherries — their VORS (Very Old Rare Sherry) made of precious old wines — are so new to the market that “not even Queen Elizabeth has tried them.” Maybe by now, Wills and Kate have. Lustau also has a royal connection as Empress Eugénie of France visited their bodega in 1920 at the age of 94. Don Emilio Lustau established a solera that is still aged in La Emperatriz, an aptly named bodega. In spite of its frou-frou name, the Lustau Emperatriz Eugenia Very Rare Oloroso thrills not only royals, but also peons (like me) who love complex, yummy wines.
Sherry has a level of acidity that makes it an ideal match for all kinds of dishes. I know of no other wine that can make friends with vinegar. Fino: Compliments salads, sushi, seafood, chicken and anything with vinegar. Serve 5˚- 10˚C. Manzanilla: Alone as an aperitif or with tapas and appetizers like Iberian jamon (cured ham),
mild cheeses or soup. Amontillado: Perfect with spicy food such as Indian curries and Thai dishes. Palo Cortado: Enjoy with meat, fish, stews and cured cheeses. Dry Oloroso: Manchego match! Also other cured cheeses and meat dishes. Medium Sweet Oloroso: Sublime with meat, like duck with figs and lamb with cherry chutney,
as well as smoked cheese and foie gras. Pedro Ximenez (PX): Blue cheeses, apple pie, and bittersweet chocolate cake play well with PX, but it also makes a delicious dessert alone in a glass.
The night is balmy without breezes, bugs or birds. Beyond the overhanging trees the black velvet sky is strewn with diamonds. I’m in a plaza sprinkled with restaurants. Service is intentionally slow because nobody, including me, is in a hurry. Waiters, their eyes darting, weave around tables with heavy platters scattering tapas that chatter like a Flamenco dancer’s heels. One edge of the plaza is a blind church wall. Grating bells remind us of the late hour, but nobody rushes home as the children have settled. The older ones eat quietly while younger siblings doze in strollers or nod on shoulders.
The first tapa arrives ... fat sizzling shrimps in garlicky olive oil. I slowly soak up the sauce, getting every little bit with rough bread, and quaff my Fino. Later, the waiter drops a Manzanilla and three slices of bread lashed with lacy-thin layers of jamón Ibérico (Iberian ham) from acorn-fed pigs. It is accompanied by five leaves of baby lettuce, a token salad. The ham, streaked with buttery white fat, is mild, a little salty, a little sweet and a tad chewy. Delicious, and perfect with the Manzanilla. A father ambles by holding the hand of his unsteady baby girl. She is wearing a short white dress that shows off her chubby dimpled legs. Little sandals match. A young woman arrives on a bicycle and is met by a young man in a suit. They kiss, shy and smiley. She smooths her dress, pulls a light shawl around her bare shoulders and pats her dark hair. He holds her bike as they saunter across the plaza, hand in hand. Like them, I am under the spell of Jerez, and have no wish to be anywhere else. •
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Civi-
lized
The trappings of Victorian England are not terribly fashionable these days: debtors’ prison, child labour and gunboat colonialism generally raise the eyebrow of polite company and may even elicit a stiff reproach. Even the most felicitous of 19th century adornments (whalebone corsets, pith helmets) are rarely seen on the street today. I suppose that all it takes is a couple of opium wars to tarnish the reputation of an entire era. Be that as it may, there is one relic of Queen Victoria’s reign that remains as indispensable today as it was 150 years ago: the gin and tonic. Maybe it’s just my spats talking, but as far as I’m concerned, its astringent zing is the taste of civilization itself. Wine has the dubious distinction of being prehistoric — even Palaeolithic nomads could make a reasonable facsimile of Beaujolais, given some crushed fruit and a hollow rock where it can ferment in peace. However, it would hardly occur to a caveman to juxtapose bitterness, citrus and effervescence in a tumbler of Waterford crystal. In other words, gin and tonic is the kind of complex cuisine that only the better sort of Empire could devise.
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The G&T’s strange flavours are a relic of the British occupation of the malarial parts of the world. In order to stave off the disease, British army officers were fed a steady diet of quinine, a pharmaceutical extract from the Peruvian cinchona tree. To make this bitter drug easier to swallow, the officers would add sugar and soda water. Somehow, gin leaked into this “tonic” and the dosage migrated to the cocktail hour. As Winston Churchill said, “The gin and tonic has saved more Englishmen’s lives, and minds, than all the doctors in the Empire.” Gin was the most natural additive because in the 18th century, it was the beverage of choice for every English-speaking man, woman and child; at one point, London alone boasted about 7,500 shops dedicated to selling the “mother’s milk.” On its own, gin was hardly a prestigious drink, but with tonic it became associated with Eastern exoticism and Imperial power. As the British army criss-crossed the globe, it brought with it a taste for this oddest of cocktails. The rest, as they say, is history.
By matthew sullivan
Conventional wisdom holds that the key to a good gin and tonic is to use the best gin. However, no one can agree on what the best gin is: traditionalists often hold by Tanqueray London Dry Gin or Bombay Sapphire. Hendrick’s Gin or North Shore Distillery’s Gin No. 6 appeal to a more modern sensibility. Myself, I prefer Plymouth Gin, a nearly extinct style made by only one distillery (see the tasting notes for more). To make your own informed choice requires an understanding of how this empire liquid is made. In essence, gin is a neutral grain spirit that’s made from wheat, rye or corn in highly efficient column stills. These modern stills make it light, clean and high in alcohol. In this sense, it’s not too different from vodka. However, gin is flavoured by infusing the spirit with juniper berries and other botanicals, like coriander seeds, orange peel and cassia bark. This imparts gin’s distinctive aromatic complexity. It came to England from the Netherlands — gin is the anglicization of the Dutch liquor Genever. However, proper Genever is made with heavier grains like barley in low-efficiency pot stills, thus giving it a slightly malty taste. Authentic Genever is hard to find outside of Europe, but De Kuyper’s Geneva Gin is a decent reproduction that’s distilled in Canada. Genever’s earthy flavour makes it ill-suited to the subtle bite of tonic water — the Dutch drink Genever neat with a side of pickled herring. I’m not sure why they do this; as far as I know, the anti-malarial qualities of herring are still a matter of scientific dispute.
In England and North America, the most popular style of gin is called London Dry Gin. Despite its name, it doesn’t have to be made in London to qualify for the moniker; it just needs to be crafted in a traditional way. Sugar and colourings are not permitted in London Dry Gin. Also, the liquid is flavoured in a very particular way. The plain spirit is re-distilled a final time through a special basket containing the botanical herbs. As a vapour, the gin gently absorbs the oils and aromas from the herbs before re-condensing into a liquid. (Cheaper gin not qualifying for the “London Dry” label is made by simply combining a neutral spirit with juniper juice — an easier process resulting in less subtle flavours.) Gin and tonic fanatics will not only agonize over which gin to employ, but which tonic to use as mixer. In the last few years, designer tonics have begun to infiltrate specialty food shops. For example, Q Tonic is made with hand-picked Peruvian quinine and organic agave as a sweetener — as a result, it boasts a subtle, clean and charming flavour. Another brand, Fever-Tree, uses quinine harvested from the Rwanda-Congo border and pure cane sugar. This tonic has an exceptionally fine mousse with a pronounced note of citrus. Despite these differences, these tonics are primarily similar: both are much drier than Schweppes or Canada Dry; both have a soft character that cedes the limelight to the gin; and both are absurdly expensive. These designer tonics are lovely, but with their organic ingredients, they are a completely modern affair — they don’t replicate the historical G&T. This is because the tonic that we use today is dramatically less bitter than its Victorian ancestor. The effective treatment of malaria requires as much as 350 milligrams of harsh quinine, but commercial tonics contain only about 20 milligrams per serving. If you strive for historical accuracy, my advice is to crush a handful of aspirin into the tumbler. It returns the G&T to its medicinal origins. Of course it won’t stave off malaria, but it may prevent heart disease.
Perfect Mix
In a world of increasingly elaborate (and often sweetened) cocktails, the classic G&T is simple, dry and refreshing: »» Place 2 cubes of ice in a tumbler. »» Add 1.5 ounces of gin, a squeeze of lime, and tonic water to fill. »» Garnish with a fresh slice of lime. »» Repeat, to the music of Gilbert and Sullivan. A modern variation replaces the lime with a slice of cucumber. You can increase the cucumber quotient even further by muddling it — crushing a few slices with a pestle and then shaking the gin, cucumber and ice in a cocktail mixer before straining into a glass. This creates a herbal drink that often suits those who prefer Hendrick’s, a dry Scottish gin that already carries an idiosyncratic note of cucumber.
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Beefeater London Dry Gin ($24.95)
This classic gin is named after the guards at the Tower of London, but I find it unpatriotic that they used the slang term “Beefeater” instead of the proper title, to whit “Yeoman Warder of Her Majesty’s Royal Palace and Fortress the Tower of London, and Member of the Sovereign’s Body Guard of the Yeoman Guard Extraordinary.” In any case, this gin is spicy and complex. It shows a harsh edge, but it also has a most vivid botanical character for those who love juniper.
Plymouth Gin ($26.95)
“Plymouth Gin” is a protected denomination — unlike London Dry Gin, the law requires that Plymouth Gin be made only in Plymouth. Since there is only one distillery in Plymouth, this makes this bottle somewhat of a rara avis. Gin from Plymouth style is traditionally rounder and fruitier than the London style. This excellent gin is smooth, fragrant and oily from beginning to end. Orange rind and pine needles feature prominently on the nose and palate. It makes a very velvety G&T.
Tanqueray London Dry Gin ($26.95)
Tanqueray is distilled 4 times, a painstaking process by which subtle impurities are gradually removed. As a result, this is among the softest, cleanest and driest of gins. It has a gentle bouquet with grassy aromas and only a modicum of juniper. Although it has a gentle attack, it offers great texture, substantial body and a persistent finish. It integrates very well with quinine, making a harmonious but tart cocktail.
Bombay Sapphire ($27.45)
The recipe for Bombay Sapphire dates back to 1761 and involves a wide variety of botanical ingredients, including licorice, almonds, coriander and something with the intriguing name “grains of paradise.” It is a light, fragrant and almost floral gin with great smoothness and elegance. If you are a fan of this ethereal style, I recommend splurging on Fever-Tree or Q Tonic — the brazen flavours in less expensive tonic waters will overwhelm the Sapphire’s delicate flavours. •
Hart Brothers specialise in bottling the finest aged Single Malt Scotch Whiskies using their unrivalled skills providing ‘the Spirit of Excellence’ to whisky connoisseurs the world over.
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Rarity, Luxury. Two words chosen to describe the unique single malt, single cask bottlings of the Dun Bheagan Vintage Collection. A collection with selections from all the malt producing regions of Scotland. Exceptional quality for the malt whisky connoisseur.
COULD THIS MAN PUT NORTHERN ARIZONA ON THE FINE WINE MAP?
by carolyn evans-hammond
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Merkin Vineyards is the name of the high-altitude vineyards in Arizona owned by Maynard James Keenan, lead singer of the multi-platinum rock band, Tool. It’s also a pubic wig. A toupée for the pubic area. “Why on earth did you name your vineyards that?” I ask Maynard over the phone. I am actually quite happy to score an interview with him, given his reputation as a recluse. Apparently he doesn’t really do the interview thing much. “Joke,” he says, in a soft voice, deadpan and monotone. “I have a dry sense of humour. Dry like the desert. I grew up close to the Canadian border. I grew up watching Kids in the Hall.” “So it was no coincidence then that you, the head of Tool, named your vineyards Merkin.” “Neither was A Perfect Circle,” he replies, referring to the rock band he formed in 1999. (I can only guess.) Maynard’s winemaking prowess is one of the wine world’s spicier little secrets. And it’s slowly getting exposed. At his winery, called Caduceus, just outside of Sedona, Arizona he produces a tiny amount of seriously good juice. Even heavy hitters such as Wine Spectator are starting to notice. That little magazine awarded his 2005 Nagual del Sensei 90 points and his 2008 Nagual de la Naga an 88, which is quite something given Maynard only founded the winery in 2004. Talking about production volumes, Maynard says, “There are only 1000 cases, so the wines are meant to be little vignettes — postcards to sit with and savour. Like a song, but you can only taste it once so you’d better pay attention.” Maynard’s wines may be low-profile, but he himself is not. Not if you’re into edgy progressive metal. Unfortunately, I am not. So I learned of him through my friend Paolo Dallo Rosa who, over dinner one night, asked if I’d heard of the musician’s vineyards. Paolo is a 38-year-old Tool fan. Apparently Maynard formed Tool in 1990, touring with such groups as Rage Against the Machine and Fishbone. Tool’s first album, Undertow, sold a million copies within eight months of release; and its second one, Aenima, sold two million within the first 10 months. Maynard also won a Grammy for best metal performance in 1998. Fans love him — eccentricities and all. The rocker’s stage attire ranges from a bustier with falsies, crazy wigs and body paint to singing half naked and bald except for a thin pair of boxer shorts. And for a good portion of his 1993 show at the
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Church of Scientology’s Celebrity Center in Los Angeles, Maynard bleated like a sheep. “Maynard’s amazing. You should listen to Aenima,” Paolo says, referring to a cult favourite Tool song. I do, and come away tempted to assume Pinot Noir, with its notorious barnyard aromas, might rock this rocker’s fancy — barnyard being a euphemism for manure. Consider the lyrics: “… Fret for your figure/And fret for your latté/And fret for your lawsuit/And fret for your hairpiece/And fret for your Prozac/And fret for your pilot/And fret for your contract/And fret for your car/It’s a bullshit, three-ring-circus sideshow/Of freaks here in this hopeless f---ing hole we call L.A./The only way to fix it is/To flush it all away/Any f---ing time/Any f---ing day …” Right then. But Pinot Noir isn’t his focus at all. He’s actually all about Sangiovese, Tempranillo, Merlot, and mostly, Cabernet Sauvignon. In fact, Maynard describes his Cabernet Sauvignon to me as tasting like “strawberry Twizzlers, licking nickels, deep raspberries, crushed sage … like Mount Etna meets left bank Bordeaux.” Talking to him, I get the sense he’s not only passionate about wine but really knows his stuff, delving into technicalities such as soil composition, slope, climate and terroir. And despite his raw lyrics and stage antics, he’s actually quite soft-spoken and serene-sounding. But his criticism of the establishment still comes through — such as when I ask if his vineyards are certified organic. “Merkin Vineyards are not certified organic. I’m skeptical of certification anyway. If you go to any health food [store] and pick up 100 items, about two of them will be what they say they are. There are so many loopholes in organic production. But we do our best to intervene as little as possible.” His hallmark skepticism extends to wine criticism too. “I sent a couple of bottles to Wine Spectator as a test — one good bottle and one that I knew wasn’t great. The good one they gave 88 points. The other didn’t grade very well so I thought, yeah, they know what they’re doing. That’s fair.” There’s something rather refreshing about a winemaker who would rather test critics than court them. Clearly, he’s not in it for the fame or fortune. Besides, he gets that from his music — now 47 years old and still touring.
celebrity wines worth the dosh
His vineyard is tiny, he makes small amounts of wine at Caduceus, and he’s got no plans to expand production or distribution. “There’s no rush to go to a national distributor. Sustainable means not getting greedy,” he says. “And pretty much all our wine is sold through our wine club, the internet and at the winery.” Maynard is new at the wine game. He only began learning about winemaking in 2004 when he partnered with Eric Glomski. Eric worked at California’s prestigious David Bruce Winery for years and, in Arizona, took Maynard under his wing to show him the ropes. Together, they farmed Merkin Vineyards and made wine at Caduceus Winery. Maynard calls it an “apprenticeship.” Now he makes all the wine himself. “The winery is run totally by my fiancée, Lei Li, and me. She runs the numbers; I make the wine,” he says, explaining that he works his music and touring around his winemaking. “It’s manageable. It’s only 90 barrels. And I have a vineyard manager.” Most of the wine Maynard has made so far at Caduceus has been from juice imported from California because Merkin was only planted in 2004. It takes a few years for vines to be wineready, let alone fine-wine-ready. But Maynard and Glomski both believe the Verde Valley, where Merkin Vineyards is situated, holds huge promise for quality wine production. “When people hear we’re growing grapes here, they say, Well, isn’t it, like, full of cactuses, cement and ex-strippers?” says Maynard in his documentary, Blood Into Wine — the film that traces his adventures in winemaking. The 670 vines that comprise the 0.3 hectare Merkin Vineyards lie about 1,460 metres above sea level, which are among the highest in North America. That altitude creates 30˚C temperature swings between day and night, hot dry summers, winter rains and soil that’s rich in limestone and volcanic ash. With these conditions and shrewd viticulture and vinification, the prospect of producing killer wine is very real — even if the United States hasn’t granted the region status as a bona fide American Viticultural Area (AVA). Today, Arizona holds only one of the 200 recognized US AVAs: Sonoita, in the southeastern part of the state. But if Maynard is as successful at wine as he is at progressive rock, he may well put Northern Arizona on the fine wine map. Things are moving in the right direction to be sure, but it is still early days. The first Caduceus label made entirely from Merkin Vineyards’ fruit was only released in 2009 — a pure 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon called Nagual de Judith 2007. The wine is a tribute to Maynard’s late mother, Judith Marie, who died in 2003 of complications from a brain aneurysm. He spread her ashes across the vineyard where the grapes were grown, a detail that parallels the depth of some of Maynard’s lyrical discourse. “So do you draw parallels between wine and music?” I ask. “Winemaking and music is about focus, really. It’s about listening.” Perhaps there is the perfect circle. •
Francis Ford Coppola Diamond Chardonnay 2009, Monterey County, California, United States ($20)
Buttered apple nose leads to juicy apple, cantaloupe and peach flavours with a hint of cream. Glossy mouthfeel.
Wayne Gretzky No. 99 Estate Series Cabernet Merlot 2007, VQA Niagara Peninsula, ($20) Mixed berries, ripe tannins and bright acidity. Charcoal and chocolate finish.
Greg Norman Estates Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir 2008, Napa Valley, California, United States ($25)
Violet, strawberry and black cherry. Suave and well-balanced. Engaging.
Greg Norman Estates Limestone Coast Cabernet Merlot 2008, Australia ($25)
Juicy cherry and plum edged with warm wood, bonfire, vanilla bean, mocha, coffee, chocolate. Seriously complex and undervalued juice.
Marilyn Wines Velvet Collection Pose 8 Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Napa Valley, California, United States ($75)
Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon seasoned with Cabernet Franc, Merlot and
Petit Verdot. Lush, complex and ripe. Refined. Deep cassis tinged with chocolate, espresso, cherry, cigar box, spice and discreet earthy notes. More art than kitsch.
Greg Norman Estates Santa Barbara County Chardonnay 2009, Napa Valley, California, United States ($27)
Cool cream and buttered toffee aromas. Burgundian finesse. Hazelnut, citrus, fig, pear and nectarine flavours taper to a long creamy finish. Superb.
Francis Ford Coppola Director’s Cut Chardonnay 2009, Russian River Valley, California, United States ($29) Almonds, gravel and white pepper lace stewed pear and apple. Refined. Saltystony finish.
Francis Ford Coppola Director’s Cut Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Alexander Valley, California, United States ($35) Macerated raspberry and Bing cherry edged with minerals and sea spray. Elegant, fresh style.
Rubicon Estate / Niebaum-Coppola RC Reserve Syrah 2008, Rutherford, California, United States ($85)
Loved this wine. So fetching. Blood aromas lead to a clean, meaty flavour imbued with stewed cherry, warm wood, licorice and black pepper. Black olive finish.
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Thirty-year-old independent single with refined character seeks individuals with great taste for .
dram good time
a
Singles By tod stewart
It’s a wee bit hard to swallow, given the international thirst for the stuff, that single malt scotch whisky was at one time a “homeland only” proposition. The product of a single distillery, made in batches using the pot still method, was generally blended with more neutral “grain whisky” (made in a continuous still from “cereal grains” rather than malted barley) to appeal to an export market with a decidedly blander palate (apologies to the entire world outside bonny Caledonia). Without going into a huge amount of history, the whisky industry in Scotland has been one fraught with struggles, mostly between large, legally operating distilleries and small illegal distill-your-owns.
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In 1777 there were but eight legally operating distilleries. However, with over 400 illicit stills set up in and around Edinburgh, one wouldn’t have needed to travel too far afield to score a hit (or whatever clan vernacular described the buying of controlled substances back in ye olde days) of the illegal stuff that reportedly was usually better than the hootch the big guys were making. This did not bode well for the survival of the legal industry. With their livelihoods on the block, the big distillers banded together and urged the politicos to put the screws to the little guys. They got their way, of course. (Hmmm … big operators “convincing” the government to make life difficult for the
little guys — glad stuff like that doesn’t happen today. But I’m drifting. And my glass is empty. Just a sec…) Where were we? Oh, yeah, so a big whisky battle kicked off between those who felt operating their own stills was a god-given right (count me among them) and those that saw this practice as a threat to their business and personal interests. Long story short, the battle raged into the 1820s until a series of enactments made legal distilling a much more appetizing venture for the adventurous. And, with the aforementioned continuous still making its appearance in the 1830s, the shift from single malts for home consumption to blends for export was well underway.
+ Get more independant bottler tasting notes by visiting tidingsmag.com/mavericks
The popularity of blends was a blessing for distillers. The distinctive and intense aromas and flavours of single malt scotches could, often using a pretty high grain-to-malt-whisky ratio, add considerable character to the blend. And the fact that grain whisky was (and is) significantly cheaper to make meant that distillers could reap the rewards of high-volume low-cost blends for shipping abroad. Single malts were still in demand, but if most whisky was sold to blenders, how were the fanatics to get their fix? Enter the independent bottlers (IBs).
which is very rare these days within the production of whisky.” The bulk of whisky sold around the world was, and still is, the blended variety. In the early part of the 1980s, only about two per cent of scotch sold was single malt and the property of but two or three large brands. But as the desire for single malt began to grow in the late 1980s, the range of offerings increased to the point where the two per cent had escalated to 12 per cent. And the IBs found a willing global market with connoisseurs looking for something new, unique and largely undiscovered.
blended sales. We also buy from whisky brokers. Whiskies that we fill or buy from the market are warehoused at the distillery for our account. Each cask has its own identifying year and number. For example, year filled: 2011; cask number: 2345. We can only remove from the warehouse casks registered in our name.” Though you might think a distillery would be happy that IBs are around to spread their name in unique ways, this often isn’t the case. Even though they are happy to sell off new-make spirit (guaranteeing cash flow while stock for com-
Alistair Hart from Hart Brothers Limited
“The independent bottlers were some of the first companies to bottle single malt when most of the whisky bottled was blended whisky,” notes Antony McCallumCaron, Rare Malt Manager from Ian Macleod, a company offering independent bottlings under the Dun Bheagan brand name. “The historical bottlers were William Cadenhead, Gordon & MacPhail and later on Ian Macleod Ltd. These historical independent bottlers are now also distillers, since William Cadenhead is now owned by the holding company of Springbank Distillery, Gordon & MacPhail owns Benromach Distillery and Ian Macleod Distillers owns Glengoyne. All three companies are still independent and Scottish-owned,
“At the beginning of the 1980s the consumer was very uneducated when it came to the finer things in life,” recalls Alistair Hart of Hart Brothers Limited, an IB born in 1964, originally as a whisky broker and wholesale wine and spirits merchant. “By the mid ’80s the consumer was beginning to ask, ‘Is that it? I have the money, I have the lifestyle. What else is there that puts me above the others?’ So we saw a gap in the market and started bottling single malt whiskies under our own label.” While each IB may have nuances as to how it operates, the model that Hart describes is probably typical of most. “Hart Brothers fill new-make (raw, un-aged spirit) whisky for our future
mercial sales matures), they can be less than cordial with IBs. “Some proprietors are not too happy [with IBs],” Hart confirms. “Glenfarclas for one, and also Laphroaig. But IBs are resourceful, coming up with alternate names like Laughing Frog or Leapfrog,” which easily alert consumers to which distillery they are getting without the IB risking a potential lawsuit. Some distillers go to extremes to ensure IBs do not bottle their whisky. Perhaps the most common is a practice known as “tea-spooning.” “Tea-spooning is adding a small quantity, say 10 ml, of spirit from another distillery,” Hart explains. “The
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dun bheagan
Dalmore 1996 14-Year-Old (Sangiovese Wine Finish, 43% ABV)
Nose: Subtle at first, but builds; toffee, butterscotch, marmalade, baked apple, cherry pit, hint of earth and smoke Palate: Warm with an almost tropical fruitiness; some wine-like notes on the finish, round and supple
Bunnahabhain 1995 14-Year-Old (Medoc Finish, 46% ABV) Nose: Briney, mild iodine, kelp, coconut, cocoa powder, burnt sugar, floral notes Palate: Zesty (almost a bit fizzy); chocolate, dried apricot, slightly medicinal, warm finish that builds in intensity and lingers for well over a minute
Glendronach 1975 34-Year-Old (Port Finish, 47.8% ABV) Nose: Sultana raisin, dried fig/date, pineapple, dark chocolate Palate: Evident wood, full, assertive; fruitcake, toasted nuts; distinctive and complex
Hart Bros.
Clynelish 11-year-old (Plain Wood, 46% ABV) Nose: Citrus and sweet malt combine with new leather, vanilla and mildly grassy/ toffee notes; hint of brine Palate: Toasted oats/nuts, fruitcake, hints of anise and orange peel with a dash of lemon
Mortlach 11-yearold (Plain Wood, 46% ABV)
Nose: Malty, touch of pear, toasted nuts and wintergreen and mild peat with some barley notes Palate: Supple, round, fruity/malty; nice overall balance; crisp, clean, gently peppery finish
42 // September 2011
addition of this spirit is so insignificant that it does not alter the character, but it changes it to being a malt from more than one distillery.” In other words, the cask can no longer legally be said to be a “single” malt, making it impossible to market it as such. (In fact, it becomes what is referred to as a “vatted malt” — a blend of single malts with no grain whisky.) While Hart says he can sympathize with the distillery owners, he also wonders what gives them the right to try and control the fate of their stock once it has been sold. It’s not like the IBs are selling the stuff as something other than what it really is. McCallum-Caron confirms that though the rules are unwritten, they still guide the packaging practices of IB product. “The distillery name mentioned on the label should always be smaller than the name of the bottler, and the distillery name should not be used in isolation as this is a protected trademark.” But the real question, at least from a single malt connoisseur’s perspective, is what can the independents offer that the actual distiller of a particular whisky can’t? McCallum-Caron answers thusly. “Independent bottlings tend to be small batches of one or more casks or vintages and which are generally natural in colour and unchilfiltered. You are therefore getting a unique style from that particular vintage and cask. Standard distillery bottlings are rarely vintages, mostly bottled with defined ages such as 10 or 12; or a vatting of many styles of casks and years, with the minimum aged cask being the age marked on the bottle. Many distilleries only produce malt for blending and are not bottled by the owners as a single malt as the majority of the production is used for blending purposes. Therefore, your only chance to taste them unblended is via IBs. Mortlach, Benrinnes, Allt-aBhainne would fall into this category.” For Hart, it comes down to one word. “Choice. Whiskies that have been matured in different types of wood.
Sherry, Port, Madeira, for example. Casks that the blender would normally reject from his blend not because they are inferior but because it might upset the balance of his blend. He will sell it to us through a broker. “Choice of makes not readily available, as the distillery has been closed down,” Hart continues. “Whiskies like Port Ellen from Islay, Glen Albyn, Glen Mhor and Millburn from Inverness, Rosebank and St Magdalene — both beautiful distilleries from the lowland of Scotland — and all sadly missed. It was the conglomerates of the industry that closed them, not IBs. In fact it is the IBs that have re-opened distilleries. Bruichladdich by Murray McDavid and Benromach by Gordon & MacPhail to name but two.” Since IB bottlings, as McCallumCaron and Hart have both pointed out, can be the purest form of a particular distillery’s whisky, you might assume the IBs would be held in high esteem by the “big guys.” Sadly, this isn’t usually the case. I’ve personally found that IB bottlings are often less expensive than official distillery offerings. Perhaps this is part of the issue. In any case, tensions unfortunately remain. “I think the IBs tend to be looked upon by the ‘establishment’ as the bad guys,” Hart concludes. And you can almost hear his voice rising when he states, “But we are not the ones closing iconic distilleries that are deemed unproductive. We do not introduce a similar style malt that turns out to be a vatted malt rather than a single because we do not have sufficient stock of the single malt to meet demand. Changing the label slightly to show that it is a mixture of two malts. Big scandal. We give the malt whisky drinkers what they want. A choice.” So if you are looking for something pure, sublime and one-of-a-kind, consider booking a date with an independent single. It might be the start of a long-term relationship. •
Must Try
by Elaine Lemm
//my toad in a hole
There is no definitive recipe for making Yorkshire puddings — everyone, it seems, has their own, and this is mine. It isn’t the method my mother showed me as she has the knack of making amazing puddings without measuring anything, but is one I have developed over the years to produce perfect puddings every time: Serves 6
4 large, fresh eggs, measured in a jug Equal quantity of milk to eggs Equal quantity of plain flour to eggs Pinch of salt Lard, beef drippings or vegetable oil for cooking
1. Heat the oven to the highest temperature possible. However, do not exceed 450˚F
or the fat may burn. 2. Pour the eggs and milk into a large mixing bowl and add the pinch of salt. Whisk thoroughly with an electric or hand whisk until foamy. Leave to stand for about 10 minutes to allow the bubbles to subside. 3. Sieve the flour into the milk and egg mixture and beat again using an electric hand beater or hand-whisk to create a lump free batter resembling thick cream. Finally pass the batter through a sieve into another bowl or jug. 4. Leave the batter to rest in the kitchen for a minimum of 30 minutes up to a couple of hours, the longer the better. 5. Place a pea-sized piece of lard, dripping or ½ tsp vegetable oil in a Yorkshire pudding tin (2 inch hole tin) or 12-hole muffin tin and heat in the oven until the fat is smoking. 6. Give the batter another good whisk adding 2 tbsp of cold water and fill a third of each section of the tin with batter and return quickly to the oven. 7. Leave to cook until risen and golden brown, approx 20 minutes. Repeat the last step again without adding any water until all the batter is used up.
Toad in the Hole Serves 4
Toad in the Hole turns Yorkshire Puddings into a filling meal with the addition of sausages. Just where the name Toad in the Hole comes from no-one really knows but originally the dish used spoonfuls of sausage meat, so the finished dish probably resembled toads peeping out of the batter?
1 tbsp vegetable oil 8 pork sausages 1 quantity of Yorkshire pudding batter (see recipe above), rested for minimum of 30 mins 1 tbsp lard, beef dripping or vegetable oil, for cooking
1. Heat the oven to 475˚F or as hot as possible. 2. Heat the oil in a frying pan, add the sausages and cook for 10 minutes until browned all over. Remove from the heat and keep to one side.
3. Drop the lard/dripping into a 30 cm x 24 cm deep roasting tin. Place in the oven and
heat until the fat is smoking hot. Remove from the oven and evenly arrange the sausages in the hot fat, taking extra care as the fat may splutter. Return to the oven for 5 minutes. 4. Once more remove the roasting tin from the oven. Slowly and carefully pour the Yorkshire pudding batter into the hot fat and sausages, return to the oven and leave to cook for 30 minutes or until the pudding is golden and risen. Serve with lashings of onion gravy and fresh seasonal vegetables. •
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Eat, Drink, Live
San cer re
By rosemary mantini
Recently, a friend of mine, sipping a glass of Sancerre, suggested to me that it is a “conversation” wine. She was right. Enticing aromas and flavours of pineapple, lime, pear and green apple intermingling — there was a lot to talk about. “No,” she said. “I meant that it has the complexity to keep your nose happy, yet it’s easy-drinking enough that it doesn’t take over our conversation.” Oh … of course. Sancerre, both the place and the wine, has captured my imagination. This city-on-a-hill, lying neatly in the centre of France’s Loire Valley and casting a romantic glow over the vine-covered slopes, beckons adventure. So, here we go!
44 // September 2011
::::eat:::::
Want to get a taste of quintessential Sancerre? Take a nibble of one of its most famous local products, Crottin de Chavignol from Fromagerie Dubois-Boulay, a goat’s-milk cheese that’s so famous a festival has grown up around it. The first weekend in May is reserved for the Fête du Crottin de Chavignol, held in the Caves de la Mignonne (literally a cave, set with tables and spectacularly lit). But let’s just say, for argument’s sake, that you’re hungering for something a little bit different. Then you should definitely take time to savour Andouille de Jargeau, a pork-and-tripe specialty that has been a local favourite for about 800 years. Benoît Roumet, director of the Bureau Interprofessionel des Vins du Centre, has lived in Sancerre since 1994. He took time out of his day to lead me through the finer points of the region’s food and wine traditions. He admits, “My personal favourite is pâté berrichon. [It’s made] from veal and pork meat [and] cooked with hard-boiled egg in pâte brisée. You serve that just a little bit hot with a glass of white wine and ... enjoy.” Time for dessert! You can’t leave Sancerre without indulging in tarte tatin. Let the sweet scent of fresh baked goods lead you along Nouvelle Place to Guillaume Gaucheron’s pâtisserie for a cup of tea and a slice of that famous, subtly sweet upside-down apple pie that originated in the Loire Valley.
“We arrived [at Restaurant La Tour] on a Tuesday, lunchtime, after walking up from Saint-Satur from our rented canal boat. First to arrive, not well dressed, and were very pleasantly welcomed. A glass of
Champagne and a decision to go with the degustation menu, €60 or €80 with wine. Six courses plus amuse-bouche. Each course superbly presented and explained with accompanying Sancerre wines. Sea bass with coconut, lime and lemon grass broth to sustain many great memories. That with fresh crab and honey, prawn tartare, cod, pigeon and a great dessert to finish. Lucky to meet the chef who clearly understood how to produce great food. Service was perfect.” — Trip Advisor
eat with the locals
> > > >
La Taverne du Connétable, 1 Nouvelle Place Auberge Joseph Mellot, 16 Nouvelle Place Auberge L’Écurie, 31 Nouvelle Place La Pomme d’Or, 1 Rue de la Panneterie
pâté berrichon serves 6
Courtesy of the French Government Tourist Office.
1 lb veal 1 lb slab bacon Salt Pepper 1 lb puff pastry dough 4 hard-boiled eggs, or more as needed, cut in half 1 egg, beaten
1. Chop veal and bacon, and combine in a
bowl with salt and pepper. 2. Roll out the dough into 2 rectangles, one larger and the other slightly smaller. 3. Place the meat and the halved hard-boiled eggs, round side up, on the larger rectangle of dough. Cover with the other piece of dough. Fold the sides over; wet them with a little water to make them stick. 4. Make slits in the dough, between the eggs, to allow vapour to escape as it cooks. 5. Brush top and sides with beaten egg, and cook in a 375°F oven for approximately one hour.
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:drink:::
“Sancerre’s dramatically simple, piercing Sauvignon flavours of gooseberries and nettles were initially introduced into the bistros of Paris as a sort of white wine equivalent of Beaujolais, but by the late 1970s and early 1980s, Sancerre was regarded as the quintessential white wine for restaurants around the world.” — Jancis Robinson, The Oxford Companion To Wine
What makes Sancerre so special? This is a place that measures only about 22 square kilometres, yet it’s a city that’s able to produce up to 16 million bottles of sought-after wine every year. Most people in the know will tell you that the terroir is what makes it so. Cold winters, hot summers — it’s why Sauvignon Blanc is the main grape cultivated here, says Roumet. The vines sink their roots into three types of soil, depending on where in the area they happen to be growing. Limestone covers 40 per cent of the area; 45 per cent is made up of a clay-limestone mix; and a flint-and-clay combination takes care of the remaining 15 per cent. “Combined with the exposition of the slopes, it gives to Sancerre a mosaic of different conditions and … a lot of differences in the wines, sometimes very small and sometimes very important,” Roumet suggests. Granted, the facts may indeed indicate that the terroir here has everything to do with producing great-tasting wine. But I can’t help but think there may well be more to it than just that. Perhaps that friendly French joie de vivre inspires great things. There’s no denying that the winemakers here, and the wine lovers that support them, know a thing or two about coaxing the best from nature.
46 // September 2011
Mention Sancerre and everyone automatically assumes one thing: “white wine and only that,” says Roumet, matter-of-factly. Actually, the region grows its fair share of Pinot Noir. Easily found in every eatery throughout the region, the red and rosé produced here have only gained an international following within the last ten years or so. Though hard to find in Canada, La Moussière, made by Alphonse Mellot, whose family has been making wine on the southwestern slope of the city since at least the 16th century, is certainly worth a taste. You’ll find them at 1 Rue Porte César.
try this
>D omaine Sylvain Bailly Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($24.95) > Domaine des Charmilles Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($21.95) > Domaine de la Rossignole L’Essentiel Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($24.95)
:::live::
“What sticks in my mind the most about the area — outside of the great wine and local food — is the landscape. The Loire Valley, at least from my vantage point, had seemed rather flat and uniform. Things changed dramatically when I got into Sancerre. It reminded me a bit of Tuscany with the rolling hills draped with vines and plunging valleys.” — Tod Stewart
Anyone who knows me understands that I possess no sense of direction whatsoever. Maps? Oh, sure, they help. It must be guided, group travel all the way for me, right? Not even close. You see, I don’t actually find this trait (or lack thereof ) to be a deficit. In a car or on foot, wandering around lost is the best way to explore a new place and see aspects of it that you might otherwise miss. Sancerre may be small, but getting disoriented is not impossible. The city’s streets meander and criss-cross like some elaborate cobweb. Walk or bike this quiet city all the way to the Maison des Sancerre to learn how this now-famous wine region survived the devastating phylloxera outbreak of the late 19th century. Then, hike up to the stunning Tour des Fiefs set atop the highest part of the city. The stone tower is all that remains of a 14th century castle. Climbing up 195 steps to the summit might seem like a crazy thing to do at any time, let alone in the middle of a hot
summer day. But brace yourself. The panoramic view of the city, its vineyards and the Loire River is breathtaking. Wondering what the best part of the trip is? Rubbing elbows with the locals at Chez Gérald (Le Bar des Arcandiers) gets my vote. Here, any day but Wednesday when the bar is closed, you can eavesdrop on the local affairs as winemakers and city councillors each hold their meetings. •
to do
>P addle the Loire by canoe > Visit the Belfry of St Jean > Attend the Foire aux Vins de France festival, Caves de la Mignonne, the last weekend of August
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pours
by tony Aspler
//starring in the movi
We tend to think of Chile as a long, skinny country, a wine region that runs north to south. But that’s something of a misnomer, according to Derek Mossman Knapp: “It’s more accurate to say that we go [west to east], from the extreme coast to several mountain properties, and that goes up and down the country. There’s lots of variety in terroirs.” And these terroirs are being exploited by a new grouping of garagiste winemakers who promote and commercialize their wines together under the Spanish acronym MOVI, which translates to the Movement of Independent Vintners (movi.cl). Derek Mossman Knapp, a Canadian married to a Chilean winemaker, is a founding member and director of MOVI and the co-owner of Garage Wine Co. Together he and his wife, Pilar Miranda, make high-altitude Cabernet and Pinot Noir in Alto Maipo and Carignan from venerable old bush vines south of Cauquenes. The MOVI group is the antithesis of what we have come to expect of Chilean wineries — huge enterprises that have long portfolios of products. To become a member, a winery has to be small and quality oriented. They must “make wine personally, on a human scale.” They must “craft wine to reflect a particular vision, beyond origin and terroir (which are a given)” and must not be “Fortune 500 companies, not economic groups, and not patrons of convenience.” Many of the members produce only a single wine, and according to their constitution they must have “the capacity for irreverence where required.” This approach has earned them the reputation as Chile’s enfants terribles. While many of them are too small to offer their wines for export — some make only a few thousand bottles — they are changing the way Chilean wines are marketed abroad. Some progressive importers are realizing that instead of represent-
48 // September 2011
ing a single property from Chile that can offer them a range of varietals and blends, they can actually get a whole bunch of small, highly individual producers. As Mossman says, “In the history of Chile, no one wanted to share an importer with someone else from Chile.” Within the group, one-third are garagistes who started very small; another third are winemakers who work in a big bodega and have zeroed in on what they would like to do — in a style that doesn’t fit within management strategies so they’ve made the wine on their own; and the rest have left the comfortable situation at a winery and have struck out on their own. Several of the winemakers have brought their experience from France, Italy, Germany, Switzerland and the US. Last year MOVI wines had a presence in London. “We all put $127 in a hat,” recalls Mossman. “Someone got on a plane to New York, tasted with two critics and went on to the London Wine Fair. And we were the belles of the ball. It was a counter-culture sort of thing.” Tim Atkin MW tasted their wines at the Fair and commented to Mossman, “I knew the moment I saw you that the MOVI group were different from the rest of the Chileans because you don’t have the crease in the front of your jeans that your maid clearly didn’t iron.” Last January I had the unique experience of tasting 29 MOVI wines at a backyard barbecue in Santiago prepared by Derek Mossman. The most impressive are Marina Garcia Schwaderer Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Villard Chardonnay 2005, Carabantes Syrah 2008, Polkura Syrah 2008, Villard Tanagra Syrah 2008, and Viña von Siebenthal Montelig 2006 (Cabernet Sauvignon 80%, Carmenère 5% and Petit Verdot 15%). Altogether a very impressive showing from a fledgling organization that may well change the face of the Chilean wine industry. •
This
Can’t
Be true by robert hausner
I am quite certain that your idea of making cheese begins with a romantic notion of gentle, contented cows quietly munching on summer Alpine grasses, herded by the loyal sheepdog down to the valleys during the winter months. The truth is not far from the fantasy. Especially in a mountainous area of France where, arguably, you find a range of the best cheeses — the Jura Mountain area of the northeast, FrancheComté, bordering Switzerland. The tradition of making fermier, or farmhouse cheeses, in small individual quantities has not changed to a significant degree in the past 200 years. The techniques for milking, and the subsequent stages of separation, the addition of rennet, filtering and then shaping, and the applicable bathing in salt water and placement into the appropriate forms remains the same. If there is one special “cheese to make your heart melt” it is undoubtedly Vacherin Mont-d’Or, a superbly nutty smooth taste of bliss made from pasteurized cow’s milk and salt, indeed at its best in the winter months beginning in November and usually running through March. Cheesemakers, like other food producers — most certainly including winemakers — jealously guard the names of their products. Without doubt it helps us as consumers to have confidence that we are getting the real thing. Vacherin Mont-d’Or is the name confined to the product made on the Swiss side of the Jura mountains, and Vacherin du Haut-Doubs is the special cheese protected by French law.
In both cases and protected by regulation, this ne-plus-ultra regional mountain cheese comes from the milk of the two breeds of cows that feed exclusively on natural hay. In each case the end product, Vacherin, is quite small and is packed and protected by a ring of blanched spruce bark, which ensures uniform shape and added flavour. Each cheese has been bathed in salt water and matured for a minimum of three weeks, during which time it is turned and massaged again with a salt solution. This of course not only helps preserve the cheese but affects the intensity of flavour. It appears on the shelves from November and is great for dessert, especially fulfilling after a hearty course of winter meat. It’s best served after being heated so that the centre is liquid and really needs little more than plain white bread or crackers to scoop it out. While the two cheeses are almost identical, in the 1970s, the Swiss cleverly protected the name Vacherin Mont-d’Or. So technically Vacherin producers from the adjacent French territory of Franche-Comté are obliged to use the official name of Vacherin du Haut-Doubs, but they often circumvent the name recognition problem by simply calling it Mont-d’Or. It is the perfect Christmas cheese, not unlike the Stilton so popular with cheese lovers in December. As with choosing your seasonal Stilton, select a Mont-d’Or from a good shop where it will be fully wrapped and not over-chilled. Even compared with the great (but increasingly few authentic) camemberts and bries, there are many of us who consider the Vacherin the king of cheeses.
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When purchasing, look at its texture on the top, which is velvety and slightly reddish brown. It is ideal if its surface is rippled and wavy. If it’s possible to purchase just a wedge, make sure that your cheesemonger wraps it up very tightly to prevent the cheese from seeping out from the rind. And if you have a choice between the French or Swiss variety, I would opt for the French (Vacherin du Haut-Doubs), which has more depth of flavour. If you’re serving it when it is best, as a dessert, accompany it with the sweetest fruit you can find, and add complexity to the experience with either a glass of classic styled Beaujolais or Chardonnay. It is meant to be served on a plate by itself and eaten with a spoon rather than knife and fork. While the Vacherin is the most unique cheese from the mountains, there are certainly other first-class high-quality farmhouse cheeses. Everyone knows the name Gruyère, a semihard cooked and pressed cheese that usually matures six to 10 months before going on sale. And while there are many imitations, the real McCoy comes from the canton of Fribourg. The authentic product can easily be identified because it has “Swit-
zerland” stamped all over the rind, which is slightly oily and looks a little like wrinkled almond skin. Texture is quite firm, a little softer than Emmental. It has a few very small holes and, as it ages, the paste becomes more firm and turns from yellow to a slightly greyish yellow. Part of its attraction is the strong peaty aftertaste. The imitations, of which there are masses, are known in parts of the trade as “rubber cheese”; their most notable characteristics are their rubbery texture and low price. Authentic Gruyère is a cheese that is often served with accompaniments like crackers with grapes or figs, or else melted over toast and teamed up with smoked ham or sliced tomatoes. It melts beautifully and so is perfect for sauces with chicken or veal. In fact when used as a topping it gives an even and not-too-dry crust that can be mixed with breadcrumbs to cover deep-fried vegetables.
50 // September 2011
Of the many cheeses that come from the Franche-Comté region bordering Switzerland, the famous Comté is certainly one of the clear favourites. Comté — also a name-controlled or AOC cheese — is in some ways not unlike French Gruyère; however, it has a far more distinct nut-like flavour. It often appears in various quiches and is a perfect addition to onion soup. While the many Comté copies made in other countries, including the US and Canada, have a hopelessly bland taste, the authentic best are made with Franche-Comté milk. Look for the Comté name and the image of a bell stamped on the rind in green, and a pungent nut flavour. It is superb as a snack and wonderful on thinly sliced bread or toast, topped off with a twist of freshly ground black pepper. It’s also delicious in small cubes added to a salad served on the side. Without a doubt, one of the top three best cheeses of this area is Emmental. You can almost drown in choices of the many copies, but those with grand cru imprinted in red on the rind are a rich alpine delight. It is made both in France and across the border in Switzerland. The French version has a slightly stronger taste and even at that young stage seems more fruity and nutty with a somewhat deeper colour, probably due to its bulbous shape. The Swiss variety is always less expensive but is often used as a flavour sharpener in fondue or cooked in soups and gratins. As you become a cheese aficionado, you may find Emmental a bit on the bland side. Avoid any that looks dry, as the “eyes” of Emmental will “cry” when exposed to the air. Served alone after a main course, Emmental can be a disappointment; it’s at its best in sandwiches or as a mid-day snack and is a top choice for fondue. In our supposedly refined world, along comes wondrous Morbier, which is made from a single milking of raw cow’s milk and is treated with commercial ash. It is a semi-soft cheese neither strong nor mild. It has no hole in its structure but does boast some similarity to Vacherin Fribourgeois. It has a complex flavour full of nuts and fruit, and some aficionados claim to taste hard-boiled egg. But the aroma is just like fresh hay or spring grass. The downside is that there are pasteurized varieties that don’t even come from the region but are made in factories in the Auvergne or Poitou regions and trucked to the Franche-Comté region to aging caves and finally inauthentically labelled Morbier. But close inspection will usually reveal “Fabriqué en Poitou” or “Fabriqué en Auvergne.” To choose and serve Morbier, look for a creamy brown crust that’s dry and smooth. If the crust is cracked or full of tiny white dots, it’s a sign of staleness. Inside, it’s got a glossy appearance with an ivory yellow colour. The dark line of ash separating the halves should be unmistakable. If these characteristics are not readily visible, it’s likely an imposter, mildly pleasurable but far from the real connoisseur’s Morbier. Raw milk Morbier is arguably the most seductive of the semi-soft cheeses, delicious with walnuts and always with sturdy red wine. These are just a few cheeses in the astonishing range of styles and flavours available from a small area of the Jura mountains in France and Switzerland. It is certainly worth a culinary trip. •
Primer
by Gilles Bois
//making a choice
During the 2011 Millésimes en Languedoc event in France’s Midi, hundreds of wines from the 2008 and 2009 vintages were presented, plus a few dozen 2010 barrel samples. With so many wines, one can only stick to general impressions. Besides the fact that there were a number of excellent quality/ price ratios, the 2008s appeared to be best drunk on their fruit, that is early on. They are in fact already at their best. The 2009s were concentrated, with great structure and aging potential to match. 2010 has inherited the best of the two preceding vintages. The wines showed near-perfect ripeness and balance, which is a promise of a good deal of elegance when they are finished and bottled. During that intensive week of tastings, a new hierarchy was presented to the media that will, according to the CIVL (Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Languedoc), help guide consumers in their choices. Things will be simpler, they said, because all AOC wines will be grouped under one of three levels of quality. The top wines will be labelled “Grands Crus du Languedoc,” the middle section will be called “Grands Vins du Languedoc” and the rest will keep the existing “AOC Languedoc” name. Reactions in the audience were mixed. In recent years, a number of new AOCs have been created in order to extract the best vineyards from the existing appellations. That led to a portion of Corbières now being called CorbièresBoutenac. The same thing happened to Minervois (La Livinière), while SaintChinian was split in three, introducing two new AOCs: Saint-Chinian Roquebrun and Saint-Chinian Berlou. This multiplication of appellations may be justifiable from a quality point of view, but it results in a complicating of the system and possible confusion in the consumer’s mind.
The vineyards mentioned above plus six others will be awarded the grand cru label, provided they comply to certain rules on maximum yield and winemaking practices. Another 20 appellations will make the grand vin club. Price ranges have been defined for each level, with a form of sanction for producers who sell their wines at a price above or below the set limits.
It is difficult for even a serious wine amateur to correctly remember all of the names of the newly created AOCs and tell them apart from brand names. Is Languedoc la Clape a grand cru? Yes. Is La Méjanelle just a brand name? No, it will become a grand vin. Create separate “buckets,” write it on the label and voilà!, according to the CIVL. This may be fine if you remember that a grand cru should be a better wine than a grand vin. It may be easier if you happen to know that cru means growth.
In other words, the wine has been made from vines planted on a designated site, an indication of its higher quality. You could also use the price as a guideline but you have to keep in mind that some producers won’t follow the rule. Why not use existing terms we are already familiar with, such as Burgundy’s example with its grand crus and premier crus? So is this really a simplification or are they just adding another level of confusion? CIVL managing director Jérôme Villaret explained that campaigns will be launched to present the new hierarchy and that each level will have its own signature to help create an easy-to-recognize identity. But even that will change. Just before going to print, Tidings learned that INAO, the French authority, reiterated that the term “Grand Cru” can only be used in Alsace, Bordeaux and Burgundy until further notice. That may make things simpler, or will it? •
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davine
by gurvinder Bhatia
//chef heaven
“A culinary desert” is how Janna Gur, editor of Israel’s leading food and wine magazine and an authority on the country’s culinary history, described the food scene in the 1970s. Few people in the 1970s looked to Israel as a culinary centre. Gur explained that food was considered frivolous, as the populace was more concerned with fighting for its future due to political and civil turmoil. According to Gur’s The Book of New Israeli Food, food has always played a role in Jewish history, but Jewish cuisine evolved over two thousand years in the Diaspora as Jews scattered to neighbouring regions and beyond. The cultures and countries in which they settled influenced them. The differences, Gur continues, arose from keeping kosher, which meant avoiding shellfish and pork and not mixing dairy and meat. In the 1900s, Jews began immigrating to Palestine led by those coming from Russia, Poland, Eastern European countries, and Germany in the 1930s. In the 1940s and 1950s, immigration to the new state of Israel continued with Jews arriving from Arab countries, North Africa, Europe, Iraq, North
52 // September 2011
America, and many other countries. Each brought their own style of Jewish cooking and dishes shaped by the lands from which they emigrated. Gur explains that the Israeli culinary scene did not really start to evolve until the 1980s. The major catalyst, she says, was the peace treaty signed with Egypt, which provided a sense of hope and allowed people to feel that they could get on and live their lives without the same degree of uncertainty and unrest. Chefs began to travel abroad, restaurants fusing different cuisines began to open, dining out became more prevalent and the availability, production and choice of great quality ingredients increased dramatically. Today, Israel’s culinary scene is dynamic and diverse. On my visit to the country, I experienced incredible quality and variety of fruits and vegetables, great markets, a vibrant dining out scene, an emerging wine industry, and extremely talented chefs combining modern techniques with fresh, local ingredients and ethnic tradition. The following is a sampling of Israeli dishes, restaurants, and producers I encountered.
Shakshuka
My first meal in Israel was a couple of hours after landing in Tel Aviv. I was taken for lunch to Dr Shakshuka in the adjoining ancient port city of Jaffa. Shakshuka is a dish of Libyan origin that is made in a frying pan and contains tomatoes, hot sauce (filfel chuma, zhug, cayenne or harissa are the most commonly used), and eggs. Many other ingredients can be incorporated with the most common being onions, sausages, red peppers, and eggplant (I had the eggplant and sausage). Once the tomato sauce is completely prepared, small wells are made with a spoon and the eggs are carefully slid in without breaking the yolks. The eggs poach in the tomato sauce. The dish is served in the frying pan it is cooked in with white bread to soak up the sauce. Truly flavourful comfort food, Shakshuka is perfect as an all-day breakfast, a late-night snack or as hangover food. And while the owner is not a real doctor, his Shakshuka is so good...
Mezze
A selection of small plates served at the beginning of the meal (akin to antipasti)
to tempt your palate. Tastes can include hummus and tahini dips, olives, pickles, tabbouleh, vegetable salads, labane cheese and warm pita bread. I found it difficult to restrain myself (most often I didn’t) as the mezze were so delicious, but there was always so much more food to come.
Mitzpe Hayamim Hotel (Rosh Pina)
This hotel/spa has taken fresh and local to another level. Everything served in the hotel and all its restaurants (other than the meat) is grown on the 40-acre property. There is a huge organic garden with a massive variety of herbs, fruits and vegetables. They raise cows, sheep and goats and produce their own cheese and yogurt. They also raise chickens for eggs. They even produce their own soaps and oils. Forget the 100-mile diet, this is the 100-metre diet.
Bustan Levona Fruit Orchids
Walking the grounds, tasting as we went, with Chef Shi Shi Lishensky was a little surreal. Over 150 types of fruit with origins from around the world are grown on the property, ranging from avocados, eight types of mangos, dragon fruit, pitaya, guava, lemons, limes, olives, tamarind, jack fruit, durian, sapota and on and on; including several I had never heard of. Many functions and weddings are held on the gorgeous grounds with Chef Shi Shi creating stunning meals.
Kze Hanachal (Ginnosar)
Perhaps my favourite meal in Israel. The restaurant serves traditional Lebanese food and is operated by Arabic and Jewish co-owners. Everything was amazing, but highlights included eggplant baked with tahini, kibbeh (ground lamb kebabs), a strained yogurt dish that had been aged for a couple of days (sometimes getting the exact names and spellings was a challenge), and shish
barak (like tortellini stuffed with ground beef and lamb fat cooked in a creamy goat yogurt sauce). There was an endless stream of amazing dishes from the warm and hospitable owners. Definitely worth seeking out.
Levinsky Street Market & Carmel Market (Tel Aviv)
Levinsky Street Market in the Florentine neighbourhood is the place to buy spices, coffees and teas, regional delicacies, and also great delis and bakeries. Stop for a sample of rice with pistachios, almonds and harissa from the spice store Pereg, or a flaky spinach bun from the Albert Bakery. The bustling Carmel Market is the city’s largest fruit and vegetable market, but there are also kosher butchers, clothing stands and street food vendors. Truly an experience for all your senses.
The Dining Room (Tel Aviv)
A vibrant, bustling restaurant with young staff serving traditional dishes with a twist. The innovative and tasty Sea Bass Baklawa saw the fish in phyllo pastry with caramelized pistachio, honey and thyme. Beets stuffed with ground beef, yogurt and pomegranate syrup were yummy, as were the Pot Bake (cubed beef and lamb, with Swiss chard and chickpeas cooked in a pot with a pastry lid), chicken livers with bulgur salad and garlic confit, and pretty much everything else we devoured. A great representation of the active dining scene in Tel Aviv.
Eucalyptus Restaurant (Jerusalem)
Chef Moshe Basson specializes in biblical cuisine. His figs stuffed with chicken and tamarind are worth the trip alone. He is a member of Chefs for Peace, an organization of Israeli and Palestinian chefs working together to foster understanding and co-existence between the two peoples and encouraging political leaders to move forward in the peace process. •
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//the food notes
88 Alois Lageder Lagrein Rosé 2010, Sudtirol, Alto Adige, Italy ($19.25)
Dark pink. Intense, fruity nose (strawberry, watermelon). With more body than most rosés, it has a balanced acidity. Dry but ripe enough to taste almost slightly sweet. Equally good as an aperitif or with simple dishes. (GBQc)
87 McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate Moscato, Australia ($13.95)
Here is an Aussie rendering of a Moscato d’Asti. Slightly frothy, the perfume of peaches, flowers and marmalade pulls the taster into its aura. It is sweet, with added nuances of honey and spice on the palate. Light bodied and refreshing, it is tailor made as a late evening summer sipper, or a lovely addition to homemade fruit salad. Serve it well chilled. (ES)
92 Signorello Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 2007, Napa Valley, United States ($65.95)
Signorello has really hit the mark with their Cabs in 2007. The dark cherry colour leads into a bouquet of blackberries, cassis, cherries, smoke, vanilla and tobacco. Full bodied with superb length, this gem will last another decade, but can be enjoyed now, ideally with a well marbled NY strip. (ES)
90 Belle Glos Meiomi Pinot Noir 2009, California, United States ($27.99)
Sourced from Sonoma, Monterey and Santa Barbara counties, hence the “may-oh-mee” moniker (meaning “coastal” in native Wappo language). Bright cool climate cherry, plum and cola join baking spice warmth. A rich mid-palate sets up spice-laden mocha finish. Delicious with pan-seared duck breast. (HH)
93 Triacca Sassella Valtellina Superiore DOCG 2007, Lombardy, Italy ($32)
Gorgeous effusive and alluring nose filled with roses followed by elegant, firm and intense flavours of currants, leather and mineral notes, wonderful concentration, velvety mineral-laden tannins and a long, flavourful finish. Great match with mountain cheeses and braised meats. A great example of how a wine can be outstanding without being heavy. (GB)
86 Crush Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2010, Australia ($12.95)
Tropical fruits, apples, minerals, tomato vine and minerals are all in the mix here. Light bodied, with a bright edge, there is medium length and a mineral after note. This wine needs food, so try it with bruschetta topped with feta cheese or herb and lemon marinated pork chops. (ES)
54 // September 2011
88 Mer Soleil Silver Unoaked Chardonnay 2009, Santa Lucia Highlands, California, United States ($27.99) The absence of oak contact or malolactic fermentation means a fresh style. Expect lively honeydew melon, green apple and papaya fruit, followed by a citrus peel finish. The opaque ceramic bottle keeps the wine cooler longer when in the sunny outdoors. Looks and tastes poised for patio times. (HH)
Bouquet Garni by nancy johnson
//a little respect
As a food writer, I don’t get any respect from my family. For instance, when the family is having a potluck, I’m usually asked to bring a bag of ice and cocktail napkins. One would think my four and a half years in culinary school would qualify me as the go-to cook of the clan. One would think. Witness this actual conversation between my mother and me: Mama Lucarelli: We’re having a family picnic on Sunday. Nancy: Great! What would you like me to bring? ML: Why don’t you bring sliced tomatoes? N: How about dessert? ML: OK, stop at the bakery and pick up an apple pie. N: Ma, I can bake an apple pie from scratch. ML: Never mind, I’ll have your sister pick up the pie. You bring a bag of ice and cocktail napkins. N: How about the sliced tomatoes? ML: Your brother will bring them.
There are food writers who never get invited to dinner parties, their friends being too intimidated to cook for them. Not so with my friends. After assigning me the bag of ice and cocktail napkins, they have no fear of setting food in front of me. Perhaps it’s because I’m such an appreciative guest. Even my beau Ron does a bit of swaggering in the kitchen. At our every-other-month Supper Club, Ron insists on being head chef. Bouillabaisse, grilled chops, his special lasagne recipe. You name it. He cooks it. And I set the table. See what I mean? No respect. Which makes me think about the many foods that never get any respect either. The following are just a few.
Buttermilk
Poor much-maligned buttermilk, the most misunderstood of products. Maybe it’s the big fat ‘butter’ in its name that scares folks. The name comes from the days when buttermilk was a by-product of hand-churned butter. Today’s commercially made buttermilk is thick and low in fat. It lends a tangy essence to salad dressings and a delicate tenderness to baked goods. When buying a container of buttermilk, plan ahead. Make buttermilk pancakes or waffles. Soak chicken in buttermilk before breading and oven frying. Serve with buttermilk biscuits and buttermilk mashed potatoes. Try your hand at a buttermilk pie or cake. And make a chef’s salad with buttermilk ranch dressing. Voilà! You have used every drop of it.
Chef’s Salad with Buttermilk Ranch Dressing Place chopped romaine and iceberg lettuce leaves on four dinner plates. Top with strips of deli ham, turkey, cheddar and Swiss cheeses, diced tomatoes, shredded carrots, shredded red cabbage and sliced hard-boiled eggs. Once you taste this creamy dressing, you will never buy bottled Ranch again.
1/2 1/2 1/4
cup buttermilk cup mayonnaise cup sour cream 1 tbsp finely minced red onion (soak in cold water for 15 minutes to tame the bite) 1 tbsp finely minced fresh dill 1 tbsp finely minced fresh parsley
+ Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on tidingsmag.com
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1 1
1/2 1/4 1/8
clove garlic, finely minced tsp fresh lemon juice tsp salt tsp pepper tsp sugar
1. In a medium bowl, whisk all ingredients until smooth. Makes about 1 1/2 cups. Will keep, refrigerated, for 3 days.
…… Serve with Chef ’s Salad and a warmed baguette. Delicious with a Pinot Grigio.
Chicken Divan Serves 4
Scallions
Scallions suffer from an identity crisis. Not so long ago, they were known as Green Onions. Booker T. & the MG’s hailed them in their 1962 hit when life, dare I say, was simpler. I don’t know why we suddenly started calling green onions ‘scallions,’ but I do know this shift caused a great deal of confusion. Suddenly nobody was sure: What exactly is a scallion, a green onion, a shallot and a leek? Here’s the cheat sheet: Scallions and green onions are the same: slender, immature onions. Great stir-fried in Asian dishes and as a raw garnish in salads and soups. Leeks look like humongous scallions. Slice them lengthwise and wash well, as they can be gritty. They take well to braising and roasting. Look for the smallest leeks you can find, as they will be the sweetest. The shallot, a member of the onion family, looks like garlic and is made of several cloves covered with a papery light brown skin. It tastes like a mild, sweet cross between garlic and onion. Added to a savoury dish, it lends a chef-quality nuance.
Roasted Scallions Serves 4 to 6 as a side dish
This same recipe is quite good with small leeks, although you may have to roast them for about 20 minutes longer.
Let’s start with the name. What does it mean? What exactly is Chicken Divan? It comes from a bygone era when homemakers treasured their file boxes filled with ambiguously named recipes like Noodle Surprise, Bishop’s Delight, Hanky Panky and Five Can Affair. Chicken Divan is a casserole (1 strike) with broccoli (2 strikes) and a cream sauce (3 strikes). But don’t dis Divan until you’ve tried this fancy fad of the ‘50s. It’s actually quite delicious. If I had invented it, I would have called it Pan-seared Chicken Over a Fan of Broccoli with a Béchamel Sauce and Cheddar Melt. As Will Shakespeare so aptly spoke: A casserole by any other name is just as sweet.
4 2 1
chicken breast filets tbsp olive oil bunch fresh broccoli, trimmed and cut into spears
béchamel sauce
1/4 1/4
cup butter cup flour 1 cup chicken broth 1 cup milk 1/2 tsp salt 1/8 tsp pepper 1/8 tsp nutmeg 1 cup shredded cheddar cheese Paprika, for dusting
1. Heat oven to 350˚F. 2. Pound chicken breast filets to an even thickness. 3. In a large skillet, over medium heat, sauté chicken in hot oil until golden on both sides, about 10 minutes. Set aside.
1 tbsp butter, melted 1 tbsp olive oil 15-20 scallions, cleaned and trimmed 1/2 cup chicken broth
1. Preheat oven to 475˚F. 2. Place the butter, oil and scallions in a roasting pan. Turn the scallions to coat. Roast, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Add chicken broth and roast, uncovered, 4 to 5 minutes or until scallions are tender. Delicious as an accompaniment to roast beef.
56 // September 2011
4. Place broccoli in a microwave-safe dish. Cook in microwave for eight minutes or until crisp tender. Set aside.
5. Making Béchamel: In large saucepan, over medium
heat, melt butter. Add flour and stir for 30 seconds. Slowly stir in the broth and milk. Cook, stirring, until mixture thickens. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. 6. In a large baking dish, arrange broccoli like two fans, one upright and one upside down, overlapping the stems to fit. Place chicken filets over broccoli stems. Pour béchamel over all. Sprinkle with cheddar cheese and dust with paprika.
Ron’s Supper Club Lasagne 7. Bake in oven, uncovered, for 20 minutes
or until bubbly. …… Really lovely with a light-bodied Beaujolais.
Parsley
While writing this article, I asked the family which foods they felt got no respect. My brother Allen instantly shouted, “Parsley! It garnishes our plate and we push it aside. It’s loaded with vitamins and it tastes great!” Allen, dear brother (I hate to admit), you are correct. Parsley is much more than a garnish. It contains Vitamins A, C, and K plus anti-oxidants, anti-inflammatories and immune boosters. If you find it on your plate, consider it your daily vitamin and eat it at the end of the meal — it will freshen your breath to boot. I usually keep a bouquet of parsley in my fridge, tucked into a cup half-filled with water. And now a word about curly parsley vs. flat leaf. While today’s chefs favour flat leaf, I prefer curly. To me, curly parsley has a more herbal, fresher flavour. But I will leave it up to you to decide.
Parsley Pesto Shrimp with Angel Hair Pasta
Serves 6 to 8
I have to grudgingly admit Ron’s meaty, cheesy lasagne is good. Lip-smackin’ good. It’s way fussier than my recipe, but the results are worth it. Lasagne always gets respect. As does Ron.
1 2 1
lb ground beef eggs, slightly beaten clove garlic, minced 3/4 tsp salt 3/4 cup dry breadcrumbs 2 tbsp grated Romano cheese 1 tsp dried parsley 1/4 tsp pepper 4 tbsp olive oil, divided 1 lb sweet Italian sausage meat 1 small onion, minced 1/2 cup tomato paste 1 cup tomato sauce 1 can plum tomatoes (796 ml) 1 tsp salt 1/2 tsp dried oregano 1/4 tsp pepper 8 lasagne noodles, cooked and drained 450 g mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced
Serves 4 to 6
ricotta filling
This dish calls for angel hair pasta but is also elegant and tasty with buttered rice or orzo. Instead of walnuts, use pecans or pine nuts. I usually buy nuts in bulk and store them in the freezer.
2 2 4 2
tubs ricotta cheese (475 g each) eggs, slightly beaten tbsp milk tsp dried parsley
2 1
1. Preheat oven to 400˚F. 2. In a large bowl, combine ground beef, eggs, garlic, salt, bread-
cups curly or flat leaf parsley leaves clove garlic, chopped 1/4 cup walnuts, toasted 3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 lb shrimp, shelled and deveined 1 tbsp olive oil Juice of one lemon 250 g angel hair pasta, cooked, drained and tossed with 1 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp grated lemon zest
1. Place the parsley, garlic, walnuts, salt and
pepper in food processor. Pulse until blended. Stop processor and scrape down sides with a spatula. With motor running, slowly add oil. Set aside. 2. In a large skillet, sauté shrimp in hot oil, cooking in batches so as not to crowd. Season with salt and pepper. Sauté each batch about 5 minutes; shrimp are cooked when they are pink and curled. 3. Stir parsley pesto into shrimp. Drizzle with lemon juice to taste. Serve over angel hair pasta. …… Garnish with lemon zest. Pair with a California or Oregon Pinot Noir.
crumbs, Romano cheese, parsley and pepper. Shape into tiny cocktailsized meatballs. 3. In large skillet, heat 2 tbsp oil. Brown meatballs. Remove and set aside. 4. Add 2 remaining tbsp of oil. Add sausage and sauté until browned. Remove and set aside. 5. Add onion. Sauté until soft and translucent. Stir in tomato paste and cook 1 minute, stirring constantly. Add tomato sauce, tomatoes, salt, oregano and pepper. 6. Break up tomatoes with scissors or knife. Simmer, uncovered, 10 minutes. Slice meatballs in half. Add to sauce along with sausage meat. Simmer, uncovered, 20 minutes. 7. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, mix ricotta cheese, eggs, milk and dried parsley. Set aside. 8. Coat a 13x9x2 inch pan with cooking spray. Pour in enough sauce to cover the bottom. Arrange 4 lasagne noodles over sauce. Add about 12 slices of mozzarella cheese. 9. Add half the ricotta filling, spreading evenly. Add another layer of sauce. Repeat with remaining ingredients. 10. Cover and bake in 400˚F oven for 45 minutes. Let rest for 10 minutes. …… Ron poured a bottle of old-style Chianti — straw bottom and all. It was a huge hit. •
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//the notes 92 Ceuso Scurati Nero d’Avola IGT 2010, Sicily, Italy ($25)
Very attractive bright fruit with liquorice and blueberry, juicy red fruit, full exploding flavours, great structure, with fine grippy tannins and a clean, beautifully long and fresh finish. Eat and drink with anything and everything. A tremendous wine and an amazing value! (GB)
88 Gouguenheim Estaciones del Valle Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Escondido Valley, Argentina ($12.95) Something other than Malbec from Argentina. This Cabernet Sauvignon is deep ruby in colour with a nose of cedar and blackcurrants. On the palate it has well-extracted sweet blackberry and blackcurrant flavours tinged with oak. The mouthfeel is soft and full with a tannic lift on the finish to give it structure. Good value. (TA)
95 Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Napa Valley, California, United States ($125) Although perennially sourced from several Napa sub-appellations (Rutherford, Atlas Peak, Oak Knoll, St. Helena, Yountville), this is the first release with Merlot (14%). The complex nose highlights blackberry, liquorice, wild berry, cedar and chocolate. The elegant palate yields gobs of dark fruits framed by velvety tannins. A seriously long finish. Needs cellaring for maximum pleasure, so open 2014 to 2020. (HH)
88 Chateau St Jean Fumé Blanc 2009, Sonoma County, United States ($24.99) Complex aromas of melon and tropical fruit, Asian pear and jasmine blossom. A third of the Sauv Blanc was barrel fermented and aged sur lie, which contributes complexity and richness. The Semillon (10%) fills out the palate with a waxy texture amidst fig and sweet fruit flavours. It’s time for roast chicken. (HH)
89 Heimberger Les Origines Vieilles Vignes Gewürztraminer 2009, Alsace, France ($17.95)
Medium straw in colour with that characteristic lychee and rose petal nose; off-dry, exotic flavours of honey and Turkish Delight; full on the palate and very assertive. (TA)
58 // September 2011
90 Marotti Campi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore ‘Luzano’ DOC 2010, Marche, Italy ($23.99) Aromas and flavours of apple with a hint of peach and notes of bitter almond. Full bodied and fresh with a wonderful richness on the palate and a long and lingering finish. Tastes great now, but will develop more character over the next 3 to 5 years. One of Marche’s star wineries. (GB)
Tidings uses the 100-point scale 95-100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90-94. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85-89 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80-84. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75-79. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 & under. . . . . . . . . . .
exceptional excellent very good good acceptable below average
* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . available through wine clubs green. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . white & rosé wines red. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . red wines
Our Scoring
System
the commentaries in order to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board, or its website, for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler (ON), Sean Wood (NS, NB), Gilles Bois (QC), Evan Saviolidis (ON), Harry Hertscheg (BC), Gurvinder Bhatia (AB) and Jonathan Smithe (ON). Argentina // p. 59; Australia // p. 59-60; Canada // p. 60; CHILE // p. 60-61; France // p. 61; Germany // p. 61-62;
Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category. Readers should open their palates to compare the relationship between quality and price. We’d also ask you to carefully study
Italy // p. 62-63; New Zealand // p. 63; Portugal // p. 63; South africa // p. 63; Spain // p. 63;
the notes\\ /Argentina /
88 Norton Barrel Select Malbec 2007, Mendoza, Argentina ($12.99)
Exceptional value, showing typical red currant and red berry fruit with a judicious pinch of fine spice, firm dry tannins that are showing some softening, and well integrated fruit, spice and oak on the finish. (SW)
84 Trapiche Varietals Malbec 2010, Mendoza ($11.49)
Red fruit, spice and a whiff of vanilla, with cherry and plum flavours surfacing on the palate. Moderate tannins and a splash of dark chocolate
round out this well balanced, honest value wine. (SW)
82 Trapiche Varietals Pinot Noir 2010, Mendoza ($11.49)
Decent varietal style with softly ripe raspberry and strawberry scents and more cherry-like character on the palate. Easy drinking and easy to like. (SW)
/Australia / 88 Rymill The Yearling Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Coonawarra, South Australia ($13.99)
Interesting dry savoury note with mellow citrus and a hint
+ A searchable listing of our tasting notes is at tidingsmag.com/notes/
United States // p. 63-65
of tropical fruit on the nose. More typical varietal grassy herbal and green fruit in the mouth, together with a lingering hint of tropical fruit, attractive mineral grip and lively acidity. If you’ve ever thought about making ceviche, here is your chance. (SW)
88 Little Yerring Chardonnay 2009, Yarra Valley ($14.95)
The Yarra Valley, where the grapes for this wine are sourced, is renowned for its cool climate and elegant wines. That being said, the oak supports the fruit, rather than overshadowing it. Smoke, apple, figs, lemon,
peach, vanilla and minerals all work in tandem. Its light body, fresh acid and linear style make this wine food friendly at an extremely reasonable price. (ES)
89 Kangarilla Road Shiraz 2008, McLaren Vale ($17.95)
My first experience with this wine was back in 2003, when I was teaching sommeliers in Chicago. Consistently, it is a wine that delivers maximum bang for the buck. Medium bodied, the dark plums, black raspberries, milk chocolate, earth and spice are all in the mix. There is excellent length and it is ready to drink. (ES)
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//the notes 90 Gunderloch Riesling Auslese Nackenheim 2009, Rothenburg, Rheinhessen, Germany ($68.75)
Pale yellow with green reflections. Penetrating nose of citrus with intense minerality. Great acidity, nice freshness and roundness thanks to its great fruit. Excellent, long finish. The 2007, which is still available, is almost as good, and shows some evolution. (GBQc)
89 Nicolas Potel Beaune 1er cru Les Bressandes 2009, Burgundy, France ($34.75) Light ruby. Delicate nose of small red fruits, earthy notes opening to more precise strawberry and a touch of oak. Silky, only light to medium bodied, but good fruit precision. Ready to drink. The price is reasonable but you might expect more from the great 2009 vintage. (GBQc)
89 Stone Dwellers Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Strathbogie Ranges ($19.95)
A well crafted Cab that offers great varietal character. Deep ruby in colour with a nose of cedar and blackcurrants laced with sweet spices. It’s medium to full bodied; the sweetness of the blackcurrant fruit is carried on a fine spine of acidity that gives the wine good persistence in the mouth. (TA)
88 Mitolo Junior Shiraz 2008, McLaren Vale ($14.95)
Here is a superb value red! Medium bodied, it offers up a mélange of ripe plums, blackberries, cherries, spice, vanilla and cocoa. With no hard edges and a sweet mid palate, it is indeed a crowd pleaser. It is also tailor made for summer barbecues with family and friends. Purchase a case and enjoy its delights. (ES)
60 // September 2011
87 Hardys The Chronicles Butcher’s Gold Shiraz/Sangiovese 2008, South Australia ($14.95) Sangiovese’s freshness tempers the richness of the Shiraz. Its medium body, along with a nose of chocolate chip cookie dough, plums, spices and dark cherries work wonderfully together. There is very good length, as well as a smooth texture. This is the ideal wine for a blackened catfish. (ES)
87 Yellow Tail Reserve Shiraz 2010, South Eastern Australia ($15.95)
Yes, you read correctly. Yellow Tail has released a Reserve Shiraz. All and all, it is pretty darn good juice, with all the eucalyptus, plums and vanilla present. Its very good length and some background tannins round out the enjoyable experience. (ES)
82 The Accomplice Shiraz 2010, South Eastern Australia ($10.29)
An inexpensive red ripely perfumed with berry fruit and peppery spice. A touch jammy in the mouth, with milk chocolate, a bit of tannic grip and clean acidity. (SW)
/Canada / 88 Château des Charmes Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2008, Ontario ($13.95)
testimony to their competitiveness is the rock, paper, scissors symbol on the back label. Their Sibling Rivalry Pink 2010 is a rosé blend of Cabernet, Gamay and Syrah. It offers flavours of cranberry and raspberry with a hint of sweetness and a fresh orange finish. (TA)
/Chile / 88 Errazuriz Chardonnay Max Reserva 2009, Casablanca Valley ($17.15)
Straw coloured with a bouquet of almonds and apples with a mineral note; medium-bodied, spicy apple flavour, richly extracted fruit; good length and great value. (TA)
Pale yellow. Oak dominates the nose, while a nice floral touch complements the ripe fruit. Vivid acidity, almost tight with good finesse of flavour, oak is not overdone even if very present. (GBQc)
87 Henry of Pelham Sibling Rivalry Pink 2010, Ontario ($13.95)
88 Quintay Chardonnay 2010, D.O. Casablanca Valley ($21.99)
The three Speck brothers look like a rock group on the label. A
This one boasts emphatically aromatic musky floral, citrusy
and tropical fruit notes. Very concentrated citrus and secondary tropical fruit flavours, subtle buttery vanillin and grippy mineral on the finish. (SW)
91 Errazuriz Vinedo Chadwick 2007, Maipo Valley ($96)
This 100% Cab Sauv has an elegant nose of red and black fruits, earthy with lots of oak. Generous, its tight structure has roundness and elegance, retaining good freshness. The tender tannins reveal themselves in the long, firm finish. (GBQc)
89 Errazuriz Cabernet Sauvignon Maz Reserva 2009, Aconcagua Valley ($16)
Dark ruby. Black fruit and ripe, earthy notes. Supple attack, the full body is felt on the palate. Densely fruity and well balanced from start to finish. (GBQc)
89 Quintay 14% Pinot Noir 2009, D.O. Casablanca Valley, Chile ($24.99)
Distinctively Chilean piquant herbal scent with good varietal cherry and lightly spicy, chocolaty overtones. Generously ripe mouth filling berry fruit fills the mouth, backed by firm tannins with a pinch of green herb. Chocolate and plenty of spice contrast with astringent dryness on the finish. (SW)
/France / 90 Trimbach Réserve Riesling 2008, Alsace ($25.95)
Pale straw colour with a minerally, spicy nose offering notes of pear and white flowers; medium bodied, dry, spare and very crisp and clean. Knife-edge acidity. Will cellar well. (TA)
90 Domaine LatourGiraud Les Narvaux Meursault 2008, Burgundy ($44.95)
Straw coloured with a spicy apple, toasty, nutty nose; medium bodied, fresh and lively on the palate but still tight. Good length; augurs well for turning into a beauty in 2 to 3 years. (TA)
88 Louis Latour Chardonnay 2009, Burgundy ($16.50)
Pale yellow. Pleasant nose of white fruits (peach, pear) and a mineral hint. Round, fresh, clean on the palate, nice fruity taste. Good balance. Perfect with shellfish. Drink now. (GBQc)
87 La Vieille Ferme 2010, AC Luberon ($12.99) This ever-reliable wine delivers once again with attractive citrus, floral, melon and tropical fruit on the nose. The same elements carry through on the palate with refreshingly crisp acidity and a bit of gritty mineral. (SW)
86 Faller Geisberg Riesling 2007, Alsace ($21)
Very pale straw in colour with a minerally, seedy nose (over pressed?); dry, apple and peach flavours with a touch of browning apple (oxidation) on the finish. Don’t confuse this with the Fallers of Domaine Weinbach. (TA)
90 Domaine Belle Les Pierrelles 2007, Crozes-Hermitage, Rhone Valley ($23)
Ruby purple. Delightful nose of smoke, black olives, fruit stones and spicy oak. Full bodied, it retains some freshness. Soft tannins but underlying firmness. Long, expanding finish. Will keep another 5 years. (GBQc)
89 Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Cuvée exceptionnelle 2006, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone Valley ($46)
Ruby/garnet. Fine nose, pure red and black fruits, oak is well controlled. Surprisingly supple and silky on the palate for a Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Compact, it has an aging potential of about 5 years. Interesting. (GBQc)
87 Louis Latour Cuvée Latour Pinot Noir 2009, Burgundy ($19)
Light ruby. Typical Pinot Noir nose of red fruits (strawberry, raspberry) with a touch of vanilla from the oak. Sweet
attack, good core of fruity extract turning firm as the tannins show their grip in the clean finish. Drink now with grilled red meat. (GBQc)
86 J.P. Chenet Premier de Cuvée Merlot/ Cabernet 2009, Pays d’Oc ($11.95) Deep ruby-purple colour, spicy, red berry nose, medium-bodied, soft and fruity with cocoa-like notes; simple and easy drinking with soft tannins. (TA)
86 Famaey Malbec, Vin de Pays du Lot ($14.07)
Warmly ripe dark berry scents with a lightly gamey, earthy overtone lead the way for rounded ripe fruit backed by moderate tannins on the palate. Well balanced, with a splash of dark chocolate and earthy mineral on the finish. New World fruitiness with Old World earthiness. Enjoy with a veal parmigiano. (SW)
/Germany / 90 Dr. Hermann Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese 2006, Mosel ($22.95)
A great summer wine. Straw coloured with a hint of lime, minerally, honey, floral nose with a petrol note, sweet and tart flavours of peach, honey and tangerine acidity, lovely mouthfeel, light and airy with great balance. (TA)
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//the notes
I haven’t tasted a Vidal Icewine this good in a long time! Aged in acacia barrels, it is packed full of honey, peaches, apples, acacia flowers and pineapples. Full-bodied, with crazy length and more than enough acid to make it non-cloying, this triumph has longevity, but my preference is to drink it in its youth, to take advantage of all its exuberance. (ES)
89 Plunkett Fowles Stone Dwellers Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Strathbogie Ranges, Australia ($19.95) The 2008 vintage in Australia was a great one. This example is engaged with a deep nose of blackberries, liquorice, vanilla, plums and cocoa powder. The palate adds nuances of raspberries and spice. It is ripe, but not heavy, as there is freshness on the lengthy finale. (ES)
89 Gunderloch Fritz’s Riesling 2009, Rheinhessen ($13.95)
Winemaker Fritz Hasselbach has fashioned a delicious wine at a bargain price. Deeply coloured straw colour with a spicy peach nose, it shows rich flavours of honey, peach and lime. Full on the palate and nicely balanced. (TA)
87 Gunderloch Cuvée Jean-Baptiste Riesling Kabinet 2009, Rheinhessen ($19.55)
Pale yellow. Light, delicate nose with a mineral, limestone accent. Pleasant on the palate, delicate acidity, its taste is clean. Finishes a bit short. (GBQc)
/Italy / 90 Alois Lageder Pinot Grigio 2009, Sudtirol Alto Adige ($18.95) Pale yellow, small CO2
62 // September 2011
93 Colaneri Vidal Icewine 2009, Niagara ($49)
90 Errazuriz Don Maximiano Reserva 2007, Aconcagua Valley, Chile ($78) Dark ruby. A fresh aroma of eucalyptus floats above the nice, ripe blackcurrant and blackberry fruit, surrounded by generous oak. Velvety and very tight, this is a fullbodied glass of intense red wine, warm but not burning in the thick finish. (GBQc)
bubbles. Minerally nose, peach/pear with floral notes. You first feel the delicate acidity, but it has more weight in the middle palate and through the finish. Ripe fruity taste, distinctive flavour. Ready to drink and over the next few years. (GBQc)
90 Tenuta di Trecciano Vin Santo del Chianti 2004, Tuscany ($20)
Bronze colour with a bouquet of toffee, dried peaches and grilled cashews; mediumbodied and sweet but finishes dry with long nutty, dried fruit flavours. (TA)
88 Fabiano Soave Classico ‘Le Coste’ DOC 2009, Veneto ($13.99)
A subtle white with ripe lemon and a touch of honey on the nose, medium bodied, smooth and well balanced, with good length and a delicate lemon flower aftertaste. Elegant, lively
and layered. A tremendous value and the best Soave for the price available in the market. (GB)
94 Triacca Prestigio Valtellina Superiore DOCG 2006, Lombardy ($45)
Loads of crushed berries, with hints of roses. Full flavoured and intense, with wonderful penetrating orange peel and dark chocolate character, loads of complexity, multilayers, chewy tannins and a long, long finish. Built to age. Fantastic! (GB)
93 Montevetrano Colli di Salerno IGT 2006, Campania ($110) A brick house. Dark, structured, still very closed, but starting to show its phenomenal pedigree. Aromas and flavours of currants, wild berries and tar with a huge body, big and tight mid-palate, firm tannins and a long,
berry/vanilla aftertaste. Needs a little more time to really express itself. Another amazing wine from Silvia Imparato. (GB)
92 Cabutto Barbera d’Alba Superiore ‘Tenuta la Volta’ DOC 2009, Piedmont ($48)
Terrific harmony and expression of fruit highlight this super-exciting, rich, ripe and seductive wine from start to finish. Floral, raspberry, wild berries, black currant; a touch of earth and mineral notes match the silky texture, with supple, light-grained tannins and an amazingly delicious finish. Barbera at its best! (GB)
91 Ceuso Scurati Nero d’Avola IGT 2009, Sicily ($25)
Dark, fresh and rich with wild blackberry, raspberry and liquorice aromas and flavours, full bodied with velvety tannins and a tarry, intense
finish. Unoaked so the incredible character is all from super-quality fruit. Textbook Nero d’Avola. Great match with lamb tagine. (GB)
91 Triacca Sforzato di Valtellina ‘San Domenico’ DOCG 2005, Lombardy ($52)
Enticing nose but a little restrained compared to previous vintages at the same stage. Lightly spiced blackberry, vanilla and mineral notes with leather and tobacco, full bodied with an intense palate, well-integrated tannins and a long, minerally finish. Recently bottled so needs a little time to settle. Has all the components of a great wine, but much too young. Should evolve over the next couple of years and really start to express itself. (GB)
90 Marotti Campi Xyris 2010, Marche ($28)
A wonderfully delicious and fun red frizzante with bright, effusive aromas of roses. Very exuberant with extreme fresh fruit and tons of juicy-fresh raspberry flavours. Made with Lacrima grapes. Extremely well made and versatile, this wine can be used as an aperitif or as a dessert wine with chocolate or berries. So pleasurable to drink. (GB)
90 Falesco Marcilliano 2005, IGT Umbria ($57.75) Deep ruby. It is complex,
with black fruits and liquorice. Oak is well integrated. Very full bodied with a velvety mouthfeel, yet firm and tight. Intense, warm long finish. Overall well balanced. 70% Cab Sauv plus Cab Franc. (GBQc)
89 Fabiano 2008, Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso ($24.79)
Polished, newer style Ripasso showing less typical raisiny dried fruit, but more refined pure black cherry intensity. Smoothly textured, harmoniously integrated and well balanced throughout with a dusting of fine spice on the finish. (SW)
sweetness with a vivid acidity. Light and crisp, it is nicely refreshing but the finish may be a little green. Drink now. (GBQc)
savoury nose. The initial flavour of sweet blackberries mellows to an earthy, herbal dryness. A lot of flavour and complexity for the price. (TA)
/Portugal /
/Spain /
89 J.P. Vinhos Tinto da Anfora 2008, Alentejo ($11.95)
87 The Charge Tempranillo/Garnacha 2006, Rioja DOC ($19.31)
Great value here. A blend of Aragonez, Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira, Alfrocheiro and Cabernet Sauvignon vinified in huge clay amphorae. Deep purple colour, a sweet nose of violets and mulberries, medium-bodied, elegant, perfumed flavours of blackcurrant and spice. (TA)
/New / Zealand
/South / Africa
90 Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Marlborough ($17.99)
88 Blue Cove Winemaker’s Choice Viognier 2009, Western Cape ($13.99)
Aromatic gooseberry, green herb and flinty mineral lead the way for lovely green gooseberry in the mouth. Zingy fresh acidity, mineral and notes of passion fruit linger on the finish. A great value, classic Kiwi Sauvignon. (SW)
86 Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Marlborough ($17)
Very pale. Grassy with citrus and green apple aromas. Good intensity. In the mouth, there is a delicate touch of
Despite the rather high alcohol, this one presents lightly refreshing stone fruit, some lemony citrus and very sound overall balance. Finishes with pleasing honey citrus lift. (SW)
87 Durbanville Hills Shiraz 2008, Western Cape ($11.95)
If you like the fruit-forward Australian Shiraz-style wines, you’ll find a good bargain from South Africa. It’s a deeply coloured wine with a smoky,
Interesting, rather complex nose shows developed fruit, and a dusting of fine spice. Red fruit flavours and gradually softening tannins with a touch of mocha and lightly astringent finish. Characterful, but atypical Rioja. (SW)
/United / states 89 Conundrum 2009, California ($24.99)
Muscat’s distinctive honeysuckle aroma defines the nose. French barrel-aged Chardonnay confers richness, while Sauvignon Blanc’s well-intended acidity ensures balance and herbal refreshment. Viognier incorporates peachy flavour, viscosity and spiciness. Stands up well to fusion cuisine. (HH)
89 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Karia Chardonnay 2007, Napa ($34.95)
Pale straw in colour, this is a refined Chardonnay, wherein the oak and fruit work in tandem. Aromas of toast,
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//the notes honey, apple, liquorice and fig combine with butterscotch, cream and apple in the mouth. The lengthy finish is backstopped by sound acid. (ES)
89 Mer Soleil Chardonnay 2008, Santa Lucia Highlands, California ($38.99)
The lemon meringue and coconut cream pie action captures the attention of both nose and palate. Tropical fruit flavours unfold to a generous spicy finish. Citrusy acidity balances luscious viscosity, showcasing the duality of cool vineyards with barrel fermentation. Savvy choice with creambased seafood. (HH)
88 Château St Jean Robert Young Vineyard Chardonnay 2008, Alexander Valley, California ($49.99)
This single vineyard white expresses caramel, spice, yellow stone fruit and honeysuckle aromas. The palate is rich and round, with oak-derived flavours of butterscotch, toasted vanilla
and clove, accompanied by melon and lemon oil. An agreeably long finish. Serve with grilled seafood. (HH)
87 Château St Jean Chardonnay 2009, Sonoma County, California ($24.99)
Apple and citrus scents lead to flavours of lemon oil, pear and melon. Features bright acidity, elegant mid-palate and a vanilla spice finish. Barrel fermentation, sur-lie aging and partial malolactic fermentation imparts richness and complexity. Pair with cream-based pastas. (HH)
94 Signorello Padrone 2007, Napa Valley ($169.95)
This muscular proprietary red is a blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and the remainder equal parts Merlot and Franc. It delivers in spades: plums, blackberries, dark cherries, tobacco, liquorice and dark cocoa. Extremely full bodied, with impressive concentration and huge tannins, it should slumber in the cellar for another five years and then
will easily last until 2030. Patience is required, but the reward will be sublime. (ES)
93 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Napa Valley, California ($69)
The fragrant nose delights with floral and fruity aromas, accompanied by satisfying cassis, vanilla, coffee, potpourri and brown spices. The complex palate showcases black fruit flavours along with harmonious balance, firm texture and ripe, fine-grained tannins. Engaging black liquorice on the long finish. A steak, please. (HH)
93 Château St Jean Cinq Cépages Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Sonoma County, California ($89.99)
Cab Sauv (83%) dominates, but includes four other Bordeaux varieties: Merlot (11%), Cab Franc (3%), Malbec (2%) and Petit Verdot (1%). Roasted coffee bean aromas; then abundant blackcurrant, cassis, mocha and cedar flavours. An elegant, layered palate complements seamless,
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64 // September 2011
plush tannins. Bittersweet chocolate resonates on the finish. Sublime with roast prime rib. (HH)
92 Caymus Zinfandel 2007, Napa Valley, California ($45.99)
Attention-grabbing floral and raspberry aromas entice the nose. Juicy cherry and rich plum fruit flavours engage the palate, supported by an opulent texture and plush tannins. Spicy blackberry pie finish goes on and on. Totally pleasurable on its own, but delicious with red meats in a berry reduction sauce. (HH)
92 Darioush Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Napa Valley ($110.95)
I must admit a certain fondness for Daroiush. Simply put, they make great wines, year in, year out! The ‘07 Cab follows suit. With 15 years’ worth of tannins, this fullbodied wine serves up plums, blackberries, dark cherries, spice, herbs and vanilla. There is excellent length to this oh-so-gratifying wine. (ES)
91 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Napa Valley ($29.95)
This is a solid multi versatile Napa Cab with an attractive personality of cassis, black cherries, herbs, vanilla and chocolate. It is mid weight with great length and a price that justifies purchasing a couple of bottles for the cellar. Drink over the next 3 to 4 years. (ES)
91 Belle Glos “Las Alturas” Pinot Noir 2009, Santa Lucia Highlands, California ($41.99)
A delightfully fragrant nose includes vanilla and cocoa, while the palate shows off flavours of red fruits, root beer and cured meats. The higher elevation vineyards bring out bright acidity upfront, which balances the well-structured mid-palate and long dense, back end. Serve with marinated pork tenderloin. (HH)
91 Belle Glos “Clark & Telephone” Pinot Noir 2009, Santa
Maria Valley, California ($43.99)
Originally planted in 1972, this vineyard-specific Pinot — affected by both coastal fog and the warm Santa Ana wind — unfurls earthy, cinnamon and red fruit aromas. Rather plush on the palate, with sweet baking spices and even roasted meat flavours. The warm viscous finish lingers. Pair with pan-seared tuna. (HH)
91 Calera Ryan Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007, Mount Harlan, California ($52.99)
Still youthful, but reveals delicately fragrant Pinot fruit, mineral and a slight minty overtone. In the mouth: generously ripe cherry-like flavours with firm astringent tannins, a light splash of chocolate and subtle raisiny spicy notes on the finish. Will reward keeping. (SW)
91 Calera Mills Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007, Mount Harlan, California ($57.29)
Powerful bouquet unwraps
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developed red fruit and layers of fine spice. Dark cherry dominates on the thickly textured palate. Tannins remain quite firm but shift towards greater suppleness and a light mineral note on the well-integrated finish. Great fruit and structure, leaning towards power rather than finesse. (SW)
91 Miner Cabernet Sauvignon Stagecoach Vineyards 2007, Napa Valley ($74.95)
Here is a complex red with mint, cassis, raspberries, blackberries, violets, spice and olives. Medium to full bodied, there is a sweet core of fruit, a lengthy finale and sound tannins, which will allow the wine to age until 2019. (ES)
90 Château St Jean Merlot 2005, Sonoma County, California ($34.99)
Fragrant aromas of sweet, ripe black cherry and black plum. The rich, dense spicy core of blackberry, dark chocolate and clove flavours satisfy, supported by well-polished tannins. Dribbles of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon add complexity. Long cassis finish. Versatile with a variety of grilled meats. (HH)
90 Calera Pinot Noir 2006, Central Coast, California ($37.79)
Aromatics show plenty of breed with fine developed vinosity and complex oaky, spicy and herbal overtones. Seductive well-integrated red fruit and smooth chocolate
countered by a firm tannic touch on the finish. (SW)
89 Château St Jean Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, Sonoma County, California ($49.99)
Complex aromas and flavours of roasted jalapeño, dried herb and cedar throughout. The sourcing from Knights Valley, Alexander Valley and Sonoma Valley appellations ensure balance, while the 6% Cabernet Franc adds character. Lively mouthfeel leads to a generous finish. Satisfying with steak. (HH)
88 Château St Jean Pinot Noir 2007, Sonoma County, California ($29.99)
Delightful aromas of floral, rose, sassafras and red/black fruit. Lively acidity balances the creamy texture, velvety tannins and jammy fruit flavours of raspberry, cherry and plum. Earthy notes of leather and black fruits linger on the finish. A suitable match with barbecued chicken dishes. (HH)
88 Calera de Villiers Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007, Mount Harlan, California ($48.79)
Good varietal cherry fruit with suggestion of currants, spicy and peppery notes and a whiff of mineral on the nose. Follows through with fine fruit on the palate, though still somewhat closed. Stern dry tannins and primary acidity needing plenty of time to settle down. (SW)
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final Word
by tony aspler
//the end of wine
Let me change thoughts for a moment, but stay with me because they are related. I go fishing every year somewhere in Northern Canada with five other guys. These trips over the years have become replete with rituals. We each have a wardrobe of fishing t-shirts — the same t-shirts that we wear in rotation on appointed days (rather like the Mayan Calendar). One of them shows two men in a boat with their lines in the water. In the hills behind them there are three mushroom clouds. One of the men says to the other, “Limit’s off.” The point I’m making here is why hang on to those cherished bottles of wine waiting for an occasion grand enough to open them? If you believe the world will end as the Mayans predict, I bet a dime to a doughnut you’re going to make sure you get into those old bottles of Bordeaux and Burgundy before it’s too late. I understand that there is a natural tendency to want to keep old wines. How often have I heard my collector friends bemoan the fact that they can’t open a bottle they paid $40 for because it’s now worth $1400? What are they waiting for? A dead wine that’s worth nothing?
Mark the date December 21, 2012, in your diary or blackberry or whatever you use to remember significant events. It’s a Friday. Mark it because you might not be around to read it the following day. The Mayan Calendar predicts the world will end on that date. There are people who take this sort of thing very seriously. When I was in the Elqui Valley last January, I was shown a large vineyard in the mountainous northern end of the region, which was owned by a very wealthy landowner. Elqui is a very spiritual place; a shrine for New Agers who believe this beautiful valley will be the only place on Earth that will survive the cataclysm. The rest of the planet will be destroyed. In preparation for the date this landowner has planted, adjacent to his vineyard, a vast acreage of beans so that he and his family will be self-sufficient when the end comes.
66 // September 2011
Two years ago I bought two bottles of Château Haut-Batailley 1959 at a charity auction. I had no idea of their provenance or how they had been stored; but the fill looked good in both bottles and their lead capsules seemed intact. There was no leakage and the colour from what I could see was still deep. The question was not when to open them but with whom? I had to make sure that the participants understood what a unique opportunity this was — to taste a wine that was 52 years old, irrespective of its possible faults. Since 1982 I have been part of a dinner group who enjoy wine so I thought this would be the perfect venue. The cork came out of the bottle like a dream; the wine smelled sensational and tasted of blackcurrants and sweet tobacco. It was amazing — the wine of the night. It could have been dried out or, worse, corked, but that’s the beauty of the consuming passion readers of Tidings share. Expectations are sometimes rewarded, sometimes thwarted. So, why wait for the end of the world? The limit’s off. A great wine doesn’t have to wait for a great occasion. Drink them before they begin to fade and maximize your enjoyment when your life needs a lift. And by the way, how can the world end on a Friday anyway? Couldn’t they at least give us the weekend? • illustration: FRancesco Gallé, www.francescogalle.com
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