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//features 20// rewrite by Michael Pinkus
New Zealand is more than Sauvignon Blanc.
22// Paint it Red by tod Stewart
What ever happened to the Australian wine industry? The Argentine wine industry.
44
24// the hills
by Merle Rosenstein Chile’s stellar repertoire of reds.
26// Maverick Chefs 2013 by Rosemary Mantini
The most innovative chefs in Canada as chosen by the editors of Tidings.
33// united
by Michael Pinkus What unites wine drinkers from coast to coast is Cabernet Franc.
36// rows
by Rick Vanscikle 4 wineries turning dirt into cash.
40// hot
by Duncan Holmes How spicy do you like it?
44// Speakeasy by Merle Rosenstein
Prohibition-style cocktails have started to pack speakeasy-inspired establishments.
48// sizzling by tod stewart
Should you cook with olive oil? Find out here.
33 22 quench.me
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//Ă la carte 7// Contributors 8// from the editor 11// Conversations Letters to the editor.
13// feed
Tom Delarzac
14// Umami Joanne Will
17// lazy mixologist Crystal Luxmore
18// Bon Vivant Peter Rockwell
47// Must try
rosemary Mantini
51// Matter of taste sheila swerling-puritt
52// Davine
Gurvinder Bhatia
55// Bouquet Garni Nancy Johnson
47
66// final word Tony Aspler
51
//notes 50// the mav notes
54// the food notes
An appetizing selection of food-friendly faves.
58// The Buying Guide
Top wines from around the world scored.
argentina // p. 58 Australia // p. 58 Canada // p. 58-60 chile // p. 60-61 France // p. 61-62 greece // p. 62 italy // p. 62-63
17 4 // October 2013
New Zealand // p. 63 portugal // p. 63 South Africa // p. 63-64 spain // p. 64 United States // p. 64-65 Uruguay // p. 65
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//online
//contributors
+ more on quench.me
Follow us on twitter and tumblr living.quench.me twitter.com/quenchbytidings Contributing editor Gurvinder Bhatia left a career practising law to pursue his passion for wine and food. He is also the wine columnist for the Edmonton Journal and Global TV Edmonton. His activities as an international wine judge, leading intimate wine and food tours, and his relentless pursuit of quality wines with a sense of place are simply an excuse for him to eat and drink his way around the world.
Features Sean Wood examines the state of Old World wine in High Time.
cooking challenge Go French with this savoury Onion Tart.
Travel Follow Evan Saviolidis as he explores Portugal’s delicious contributions to civilization.
Chaos and Canapés Rosemary Mantini ponders what the word “grilled” really means.
Merle Rosenstein is intrigued by new trends in wine making, the details of viticultural practices and the origins of indigenous varietals. Her lifelong quest to understand the people and personalities in the drinks business takes her to far away places to sample wine, craft beer, coffee and spirits. Check out her blog peoplebehindwine.wordpress.com or @merlerosenstein.
Thanksgiving Recipes Add these delicious items to your menu: Turkey Trot, Stuffed Pumpkins … and more.
New videos Visit videos.quench.me to see contributing editor, Gurvinder Bhatia on the Grapeful Palate.
Plus!
Original recipes: A daily serving of food
and drink news and views; culinary tips, tricks and techniques.
Christine Sismondo is a National Magazine Award-Winning drinks columnist and the author of Mondo Cocktail: A Shaken and Stirred History as well as America Walks into a Bar: A Spirited History of Taverns and Saloons, Speakeasies and Grog Shops.
Next Month In Tidings 7th annual mav wine and spirits awards Street food done at home Old world charm: From Germany to Italy to France Merlot made right
Dunc Holmes says that preserving food, for him, is addictive. The crabapples and blackberries at the back of his Tsawwassen, BC home became jellies and jams, now labelled and ready to help fill holiday gift baskets. While waiting for the lids to pop, Duncan reads Richard Morais’ Hundred-Foot Journey, a cornucopia of food images that go all the way from Mumbai to Paris. Adjectives, says Dunc, make food writing sing.
Canada’s Rich, aromatic whites Adding a bit of bitter Awash with Spanish brandy ... And So Much More
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//from the editor
October 2013 Issue # 314
\\
9 annual Maverick chefs issue th
have you seen this? Our web site has been a point of contention for some years now. A lot of people have talked about the absolute necessity of it. If you aren’t online, you don’t exist. In a certain way that’s right. I’d like to say that if you aren’t doing online right, you can’t exist. Too often the pages of a magazine are regurgitated into an online version that leaves a lot to be desired. It’s boring in the way it delivers content, and for that reason a lot of print magazine web sites are poorly visited. The Tidings site is no exception. We haven’t really gotten you, our readers, to visit and frequent the site — quench.me. You’ve commented on what you’ve wanted from us online and we’ve listened. In the last 6 months we’ve spent a lot of time reworking everything. We’ve created sections that lie within your interests (Hunger, Thirst and Living). New writers have been added to create unique content only available online. And we’ve garnered a grand following on Twitter, Pinterest and Tumblr. But that’s not all.
Editor-in-chief
Aldo Parise editor@tidingsmag.com Associate Editor
Rosemary Mantini rmantini@tidingsmag.com Contributing Editors
Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart Contributing food Editor
Nancy Johnson Columnists
Tony Aspler, Peter Rockwell, Tom de Larzac, Joanne Will, Sheila Swerling-Puritt, Crystal Luxmore Contributors
Sean Wood, Harry Hertscheg, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Rick VanSickle, Merle Rosenstein, Michael Pinkus, Ron Liteplo, Duncan Holmes Tasters
Tony Aspler, Rick VanSickle, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Jonathan Smithe, Ron Liteplo and Gurvinder Bhatia COPY DESK
In the next month or so we will be rolling out some new features. This will help make quench.me not only the ideal spot for your favourite food and drink content, it will also be highly practical. Without letting too much out of the bag, we’re essentially creating a sort of online dinner table to help you discuss food, wine and everything else with friends anywhere across the world. At the same time we’ll be creating a cellar tracking system that will allow you to record your tasting notes, let others comment on them, all while tracking quantities. You’ll be able to join a large community of interest all on one site. So please visit quench.me and we’ll keep you apprised of these new and highly demanded features.
Lee Springer, Kathy Sinclair Creative by Paris Associates Art Direction
Aldo Parise Production
ww+Labs, cmyk design, studio karibü Illustrations & Photography
Matt Daley, Francesco Gallé, Push/Stop Studio, august photography, Westen Photo Studio Cover Design
studio karibü
Audited by
8 // October 2013
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conversations\\
Now inth our 40 year Kylix Media CFO
Lucy Rodrigues Circulation
circ@tidingsmag.com Accounts
Marilyn Barter accounts@tidingsmag.com Advertising Representation Dovetail Communications
Senior Account Executive Gillian Thomas: gthomas@dvtail.com 9 05-886-6641 ext 308 www.quench.me living.quench.me twitter.com/quenchbytidings
Kylix Media, 5165 Sherbrooke St. West, Suite 414, Montreal, Quebec, H4A 1T6, Tel: 514.481.6606, Fax: 514.481.9699. Subscription Rates: Canada: $36 per year, $58 per 2 years, USA: $55 per year, Other: $75 per year. Single Copies: $5.95. Tidings, Canada’s Food & Wine Magazine, a registered trademark of Kylix Media, is published 8 times a year: (February/March, April, May/June, July/August, September, October, November, December/January). Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher.
Re: “There’s Some Magic” by Joanne Will. All I can say is, Wow! I had no idea truffles grew in my own backyard! I wonder if there are truffle-hunting excursions I can join. That would be so much fun. Joan North, Vancouver
I was so happy to read in Crystal Luxmore’s “With A Fizz” that those complicated-to-make cocktails are going out of fashion. They’re fine at a bar or restaurant, but sometimes I just want some great new recipes to whip together and serve at home. Crystal’s recipe is a winner, and I love that “healthier” pop is making a grand come-back.
... I really enjoy just going for the smells, tastes and opportunities to chat with neighbours and farmers alike ...
Sam Childer, email
Our farmers’ market here in Guelph, ON is a year-round market, and has been in operation for over 180 years. Whether or not I end up buying anything, I really enjoy just going for the smells, tastes and opportunities to chat with neighbours and farmers alike. Donna Godin, Guelph
I tried Duncan Holmes’ Dill Pickles recipe a couple of weeks ago. I embellished it a bit by adding a couple cloves of garlic and some peppercorns. Ingrid Heizel, Montreal
© 2013 Kylix Media Inc. Printed in Canada. ISSN-0228-6157. Publications Mail Registration No. 40063855. Member of the Canadian Federation of Independent Business.
Tidings uses 10% post-consumer recycled fibres
I really appreciated Peter Rockwell’s explanation of the difference between a cross and a hybrid grape. There’s so much to know about wine that even something so basic can get lost in jargon. Your take on it was funny and clear. Ella Young, Winnipeg
Material chosen for publication may be edited for clarity and fit. Please e-mail your comments and questions to editor@tidingsmag.com.
quench.me
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lighter side of turkey\\
As fall starts to roll in, the weather gets cooler and the leaves start to turn; but what I notice the most are the changes in everyone’s culinary direction. Comfort food becomes much more prominent. Halloween sweets are just around the corner. And of course, it is finally turkey season. Depending on what side of the border you happen to come from, the turkey window arrives in October or November (eating season that is, not hunting season). My wife is American and I am Canadian, and in order to keep the peace, we celebrate both days. Regardless when you turkey down though, this bird seems to always be the star of the table. Every year I wonder why we don’t have it more often. Turkey has a way of bringing families and friends together, and this is where I think the problem lies. Cooking a whole one is an ordeal, regardless of the process, roasting or deep frying. Due to its sheer size it is time-consuming, needing hours to prep and to cook. It needs to rest, and then there’s the expectation of sides — cranberry sauce, sweet potatoes and stuffing. Because of the sheer amount of food that usually gets cooked, you absolutely need an entire group of people to eat enough of the turkey to avoid having a week’s worth of leftovers (even though it does make a great sandwich). Since I have to do it twice a year — in back-to-back months no less — I have started cooking the bird in pieces. By breaking it down, or buying it in pieces, I can cook how much I need and cut down the cooking time drastically. This transforms turkey into a reasonable meal that can be enjoyed year-round. I hope this recipe excites your culinary minds enough to have turkey all year-round, and not just at Thanksgiving.
feed
by tom De larzac
sage seared turkey
4 lbs turkey breast, skin on (or thigh or drumstick, depending on preference) 4 tbsp soft butter (unsalted) 4 tbsp chopped sage 1 tbsp lemon zest 2 tbsp oil 1 onion, roughly chopped 1 celery stalk, roughly chopped 1 carrot, chopped
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. In a small bowl mix half the butter, half the sage and zest.
Spread the mixture under the skin of the turkey. Season exterior with salt, pepper and remaining sage. 3. Place an oven-safe pan on the stove, over medium heat with remaining butter and oil. Sear turkey on all sides until browned. 4. Add onion, celery and carrot into the pan. Lift the turkey on top of the vegetables and place the pan in the oven for 75 minutes, or until cooked though (165°F internal temp). …… Enjoy with baked sweet potatoes and stuffing, and a Niagara Gewürz at its side.
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there’s some magic\\
The Hollows restaurant, love child of chefs Christie Peters and Kyle Michael, is celebrating two years of “high-quality, sustainable and seasonal” dining in Saskatoon. In July, I talked to Peters about the experience of opening a restaurant, and cooking with the seasons in a province buried in snow six months of the year. “We handle it by being really true to where we are,” says Peters. “We just had a pork dish on the menu with sauerkraut and sea-buckthorn berries. I was using a lot of preserves right up until June. Perennials and wild foraged stuff is really good in May and June, things like spruce tips are ready, so we incorporate that into the menu. We also have tempura dandelion flowers on the menu right now. People didn’t know you could eat the flowers, but they have a really crispy exterior and chewy interior. They’re a really good bar snack. So people are really excited about that. “We compost all the food waste and recycle all the packaging that comes through the restaurant, so we make very little garbage,” Peters goes on to say. “We have a giant permaculture garden a few blocks away that is growing with the restaurant. We also work directly with a local farm, which grows us vegetables and takes our pig slop or chicken feed or compost as well. We also use only whole animals and whole fish, so that nothing is wasted. So it’s a full-circle kind of thing — and we can’t imagine doing it any other way.” Originally from Saskatoon, Peters previously worked in renowned kitchens in Vancouver and Amsterdam. So, where does she find inspiration? “My grandmother was amazing at entertaining. She would have these huge garden parties in her backyard, and it was really inspiring to me. I always wanted to be the host of a party like that, and owning a restaurant I feel
14 // October 2013
umami
by joanne will
like you get to do that every day. But my parents never cooked, and I think that’s what inspired me to want to cook everything from scratch, using whole foods. “I also get inspiration from whatever is around Saskatchewan. Whenever we go to the farm or into the garden, whatever is growing, I try to find a way to use whatever is there. For example, some of the first things to appear in the garden are chive flowers and different wild weeds. There’s pigweed and mallow and parsley, which is a perennial. So one of our dishes on the summer menu is a herb and cashew pesto with chive flowers and housemade spaghettini. It’s pretty much composed of whatever wild weeds and herbs are popping up; we collect those and make a pesto fresh daily with some really good Grana Padano, cashews, olive oil and garlic, and then add chive flowers. It’s a simple dish, but it’s using exactly what’s in season and growing around us.” What’s Chef Peters’ advice for aspiring restaurateurs? “It’s easy to get lazy when you’re your own boss. You have to be extremely self-motivated, and also very curious and very in touch with the inspirations that are out there. And you have to be pushing yourself all the time.” Being in charge is also her greatest reward. “I was a pain in the ass of all my bosses because I’d always be asking, ‘Why don’t we compost here? I want to do this or that,’ or ‘Why don’t we buy more local vegetables?’ But it wasn’t up to me. I had to keep my mouth shut, and I got sick of that quickly! I knew I needed to get where I could do my own thing — and I love it. I can work as hard as I want, do things exactly the way I want, and everything has meaning to me. That’s the most important thing; I feel good about everything I do.”
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lazy mixologist
the great pumpkin\\
Maybe it’s on account of our fond memories of Charlie Brown. Or perhaps it’s because pumpkin is associated with not one, but two delicious holidays — Thanksgiving and Halloween — that it is such an evocative flavour. All you have to do is watch people’s faces in line during pumpkin spice latte season to know it’s the kind of taste that brings back a lot of warm memories. If you really grilled the people in that lineup, though, most would actually be hard-pressed to tell you what pumpkin actually tastes like. “Pumpkins themselves are a very bland squash, and we don’t see any pattypan or turban cocktails on lists,” explains Simon Ogden, bar manager at Veneto Tapa Lounge in Victoria. “What people are actually talking about when they talk about pumpkin drinks are the traditional spices used in the North American staple pumpkin pie, being nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger, cloves — you know, winter spices.” Pumpkin spice, Ogden warns, has not only become a stand-in for pumpkin, but the base for quite a few bottom-shelf liqueurs and pretty forgettable — often overdone — fall-release ales. While Ogden thinks these spices often overwhelm the integrity of a good beer, he is a fan of using these flavours in eggnogs and punches which, he says, can be delicious if done right. The main pitfall, it seems, is that most pumpkin beverages are overly sweet. Maybe we’re hard-wired to start thinking about dessert as soon as pumpkin comes onto our radar, or perhaps it’s the gourd’s bitter notes that make people reach for the sugar. Robin James Wynne, bar manager at Toronto’s Rock Lobster, has combatted this by dialing back the sweet and amping up the savoury. He also maxes out the squash’s natural sweetness by caramelizing it before using it to make pumpkin bitters and syrups, both of which are used in his repertoire of cocktails.
+ Visit quench.me/search-mixed/ for more drink recipes
by christine Sismondo
“Pumpkin has a bit of bitterness in it but, if you bake it first, you can bring out all the sugars,” says Wynne. “It’s kind of like when you make a butternut squash purée.” Wynne says he hates to use the pumpkin pie cliché, but uses it to guide the flavour profile of the spices he uses in his syrup — whole pods of cardamom, cinnamon sticks, cloves, nutmeg, vanilla, allspice and black pepper. All of these can add a tremendous depth of flavour to his rich and spicy Pumpkin Flip, a perfect after-dinner holiday cocktail that’s sophisticated and yet still brings back those childhood memories. Now that’s a great pumpkin.
Pumpkin Flip 1 2
egg yolk oz Wild Turkey 3/4 oz brandy 1/4 oz orange liqueur 1/2 oz pumpkin syrup Put all ingredients in a shaker with ice. Shake very rigorously. Fine-strain into chilled coupe glass. Garnish with freshly grated nutmeg.
quench.me
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cheapos and vendanges\\
18 // October 2013
If your pick is a non-vintage version (and you see it at numerous retailers) odds are the producer massages it to taste the same no matter the year so it may be a safe, though less exciting, find. My best grocery store selection tip (because a fancy wine shop isn’t where you’ll find the bargains in Europe) is all about the visual. Stand at the end of the wine aisle and observe. Any wines the locals are buying in bulk, I’m always interested in tasting. When do winemakers harvest their grapes? Ah, could you be a bit more specific? I’m sure my winemaking friends are waiting with baited breath to hear me tell you an exact date they should pluck their berries. Sadly, there isn’t one. Geography rules the calendar when it comes to grape-growing, and there isn’t a magic date when a vine decides it’s right to reap its wares. Harvest really is what it is, and that depends on place, the weather and a winemaker’s nerves of steel. Remember the wine world is split in two. The equator divides the planet, so southern wineries are picking on an opposite calendar date to their counterparts in the north. As if that fact alone doesn’t make your question unanswerable, countries in each hemisphere have to deal with the personalities of their individual terroir. That’s what makes any comment that “France” has had a bad vintage such a misnomer. France, like the majority of wine-producing countries, is a pretty big place. You can’t paint every part with the same brush, because none of its regions share the same sun, rain, wind or any other excitement Mother Nature decides to throw at one particular part of it. So in the end, the easiest resolution to your generic question is maybe in September in the north, and somewhere around April in the south — Bacchus willing.
+ Ask your questions at bonvivant@tidingsmag.com
Illustration: Matt Daley/Shinypliers.com
I hear that there’s lots of cheap wine available in Europe. I’ll soon be there for a few months. Any tips I should keep in mind when I’m shopping? Sounds like a long way to go for a glass of lame table wine, but you are correct, my friend. You will be able to find a bottle for somewhere next to nothing at most European grocery stores as long as you realize you’ll be getting exactly what you pay for. When I worked wine retail I used to hear on a regular basis from “world travellers” that Canada didn’t import the good stuff. By that they meant they couldn’t find that masterfully made glass of house vin they enjoyed at a bistro within eyeshot of the Eiffel Tower. A bit of an Earth traveller myself, I can confirm that a glass of just about anything tastes better if you are (A) on vacation, and (B) have a view of anything that even remotely confirms that you are on vacation. In reality, Canada does — hedonistic opinions aside — import the good stuff. Any wine that retails for less than two Canadian bucks in France, Spain or Italy would be lucky to make it to the dock for shipment, let alone survive the trip to a Canuck port of call. They’re built for speed, not travel. Wine is the most human of drinks, meaning, like us, it doesn’t enjoy a rough ride. If I strapped you to a pallet, locked you in a container and tossed you on the waves for a few weeks I’m betting you’d feel a bit worse for wear. Wines have to be solid to make the trip to the New World, and simply made European wines tend to come out the other end with little of their drinkability intact. That rant ranted, you can find some pretty enjoyable wines that cost less than a cup of espresso during your travels as long as you keep an open palate. Tip-wise, study your vintages. Even the most pedestrian juice will taste better from a great year. Not that vintage is everything.
bon vivant
by peter rockwell
Sip your way through
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e r rite w
by Michael Pinkus
I’m sure you know everything that needs to be known about New Zealand and the wines made there, right? After all, you know Sauvignon Blanc and have probably looked at (if not tasted) a bottle of their Pinot Noir; but it’s that Sauvignon Blanc you know best: crisp, acidic, flavourful with great aromatics and the three G’s in abundance: grapefruit, grassy and gooseberry. Yup, the country practically re-wrote the book on Sauvignon Blanc and how we view it, to the extent that New Zealand, to many, is known more for the grape than the Loire (its traditional home). It’s now synonymous with Sauvignon Blanc and vice versa, and when it comes to wine that’s all you need to know … end of story. Or is it? While Sauvignon Blanc is the Kiwis’ biggest export wine (84%) and its signature variety, (67% of their production is devoted to the grape) there are other grapes being grown and other interesting wines being made. But by comparison they are minuscule next to the Sauvignon Blanc juggernaut they have created. Just look at the numbers: 19,930 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc are planted; the next highest is Pinot Noir (5096 hectares) and all other grapes, both red and white combined, only equal 9243 hectares. So it’s no wonder we’re all brainwashed into believing New Zealand makes Sauvignon Blanc and that’s all. But I’m here to tell you that there is more to this tiny country than that crisp, white flagship and its much-lesser red partner in vine crime. Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet are all varieties grown and they make some pretty exciting wines, we just have learn to push the boundaries of what we are willing to try and get out of the mindset that all the Kiwis make is Savvy B.
Astrolabe Province Pinot Gris 2012 ($22.95)
A beautiful apple-pear combo makes this a true Pinot Gris full of lovely white fruit flavours.
Babich Pinot Gris 2012 ($15) Plenty of white fruits with a touch of bitterness on the finish, probably from the 20% oak used, this helps to keep it clean and honest.
20 // October 2013
Churton Viognier 2011 ($36) Pineapple and pear take centre stage here with a touch of citrus rind on the finish.
Elephant Hill Reserve Syrah 2009 ($45)
Sileni Estate “Parkhill” Pinot Gris 2010 ($22.95)
There’s a slight sweetness here of apple and sweet pear — a delightful patio sipper.
Stunningly smooth and quite sexy, all the elements of Syrah are here: generous raspberry and strawberry notes along with pepper and smoke backing it up.
Forrest Pinot Gris 2012 ($19.95)
Pretty floral and pear aromas that follow into the mouth and coat the tongue.
Giesen Estate Riesling 2012 ($16.95)
Simon Waghorn, Astrolabe Winemaker
There’s some peach and pear mingling with good acidity on the palate, has a sweetness to it that makes it a good summer sipper.
Marisco The Kings Bastard Chardonnay 2011 ($20)
This winery has a cool story we can’t get into here but this delicious Chard is a great mix of vanilla, butter and tropical fruit.
Pask Gimblett Road Merlot 2009 ($18.95)
A warmer year Merlot with lots of robust fruit and nice tannin structure. There’s some age-ability to this bottle so don’t waste it by drinking it all now.
Sileni Estates Merlot 2012 ($15.95)
Nice oak with hints of cinnamon lead the charge followed by dried cherry and hints of cranberry — this one would fit in well on barbecue night.
Sileni Estate NV Cellar Selection Sparkling Pinot Gris ($18.95)
Seems the Kiwis have value bubbles down pat, too, with this lovely Pinot Gris sparkler: apple, pear and citrus all mix mid-palate leading to a dry finish.
Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Gris 2012 ($16.45) Good mix of sweet and dry that flows through the palate with white fruit: apple, pear and peach.
Spinyback Pinot Gris 2012 ($17.95)
Fresh fruit but with bite to it, think lemon-lime laced apple, sweet and tart with green apple pucker on the finish.
Waimea Viognier 2010 ($20)
Made from the oldest Viognier vines in New Zealand (11 years), 9 months in barrel barely shows on this tasty beauty full of tropical fruit with a seam of vanilla.
Crossroads Milestones Series Syrah 2011 ($27.95) Smoky and toasty with white pepper and raspberry.
Sileni The Triangle Merlot 2010 ($16.95)
Nice structure with some good complexity, not your typical juicy American style.
Dog Point Vineyard Chardonnay 2011 ($39.95) A fully oaked version of Chard with nice buttery and spicy notes all leading to sweet fruit and a good, long, finish. •
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Q: What ever happened to the Australian wine industry? A: The Argentine wine industry. by tod stewart
Paint
It Red
Alright, alright … yes, that’s a bit (maybe a big bit) of an oversimplification of a multifaceted economic issue that resulted not only from a shift in taste preference, but also in currency valuations and weather patterns. Yet from the consumer’s perspective, the appearance of Fuzion was a death knell for Yellow Tail. Many industry watchdogs will claim that Australia shot itself in the foot by promoting its bottom-tier bargain juice over the truly good stuff (a claim even winemakers like Bruce Tyrell admit to be true. See quench.me/thirst/australian-wines/). But wine drinkers looking for maximum ka-boom at minimum kaching (and there are plenty of them out there) have also helped cook the wallaby wine market. I mean, the choice between a $13 Aussie “critter” Shiraz and a $7 Argentine Malbec is a no-brainer. If you can snare two bottles of big, jammy, slightly sweet red for the price of one, then Argentine trumps Antipodean. So good on the Argentines, right? Well, yes and no. It’s great to see the historically domestic market branching aggressively into that of the export. However, flooding global shelves with inexpensive vino tinto might see Argentine winemakers crying into their (possibly Australian) beer. Having, in a sense, lowered the price bar
22 // October 2013
for drinkable red wine even further, how is the Argentine wine industry to avoid winning (or losing as the case may be) the race to the bottom of the barrel? After all, you can only go so low. Luckily, Argentina certainly has the potential to create world-class wine (a potential currently being realized), not just commercial plonk. Combine this with the skills of a new breed of winemakers, some with global experience — and global success — and you have a recipe that yields much more than drinkable wine…perhaps much more than Malbec. Enough has been written in these pages (and others) about the history of the wine industry in Argentina to merit a lengthy dissertation. In a nutshell, wine has been produced in Argentina since the 1500s during the time of the Spanish colonization. For most of its history, the country’s wine industry focused on supplying large quantities of wine to slake the thirst of the local population. “Until the late 1980s, Argentina was probably the worst wine producing country in the world,” asserts California vintner Paul Hobbs, who, having established a number of successful partnerships in California, has recreated this success in Argentina with Viña Cabos. “Wine was strictly for consuming, not selling in bot-
tle,” he explains, “and for the most part it was all oxidized; there was really no concept of how to make good wine.” When the game changed radically in the mid to late 1980s, it was thanks in large part to the pioneering efforts of local winemaker Nicolás Catena, whose epiphany came while in the Napa Valley (and who took inspiration from Robert Mondavi’s contribution to the wine scene there). For Hobbs, a similar epiphany occurred on a road trip from Santiago, Chile, to Mendoza, Argentina, in the late 1980s. “I saw what was possible,” he recounts. “There was a strong culture of wine, but a lack of practical knowledge. The vineyards were poorly farmed. The vines, especially Malbec, were over irrigated and in an effort to mitigate the threat of hail, trained far too low to the ground.” However, he saw a strong work ethic in the people and the potential in the land to support a world-class wine industry. “What I saw,” he says, “was an unpainted canvass.” Transforming this canvas into a vinous Rembrandt is today still something of a work in progress, but the “big picture” (as it were) is coming together. First, there was the matter of appropriate grape varieties. This meant finding alternatives to the ubiquitous, high-yielding
numbers like Cereza and Criolla Grande. The Grape Red Hope was ultimately to be Malbec. And, like it or loathe it, it’s still front and centre for many winemakers like Gonzalo Bertelsen, General Manager and Chief Winemaker at Mendoza’s Finca el Origen. He feels the rediscovery of Malbec in the vineyards of Argentina has been the most exciting development he has seen in the country’s wine industry “by far.” “Malbec represents sixty per cent of our total bottle sales,” he reveals, adding that his vineyards also produce a significant amount of the variety for sale to other wineries. Bodega Trivento’s winemaker Germán di Césare is also keen on Malbec. “Malbec is the main actor in our portfolio these days. It is in every wine in our range and to this day remains the most popular grape variety in our country.” When you taste wines like the Finca el Origen “Gran Reserva” Malbec or the Trivento “Golden Reserve” Malbec you start to see why winemakers in Argentina are excited about its future.
The other grape that seems to be gaining a fair bit of traction — or at least a fair bit of attention — is Bonarda (a.k.a. Douce noir, a.k.a. Charbono, a.k.a. a pile of other names). Its potential has yet to be proven and winemakers appear to be of two minds about it. Bertelsen seems somewhat ambivalent, saying that he uses it in some blends, in some years. He puts more faith in the potential for high-end Syrah. Di Césare is a bit more inspired: “We have a lot of faith in that in several years [Bonarda] will achieve the popularity of Malbec.” Hobbs is probably just as happy to leave this variety to the believers like di Césare. He’s staking the future of his South American venture in noble French varietals and is especially excited about the potential for the Bordelais black grape triumvirate. “Malbec is easy,” he asserts, “it just needs water. We have the promise of fantastic Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.” Hobbs is certainly not downplaying the importance of Malbec in his portfolio. After all, it was the first wine made at Viña Cobos and it received tremendous accolades. He just has his sights set beyond the boundaries of this single grape.
Now, you can have the best grape varieties, but unless they are planted in the right places, the masterpiece you seek to create will remain elusive. Like Chile, South Africa and practically every winegrowing country on earth, winemakers in Argentina are becoming increasingly focused on trying to match specific grape varieties to unique terroir. “In our case [site selection] is the most important thing,” admits di Césare. “The vineyard selection is critical because it is where the whole process begins. Each site provides different characteristics to the wine, so we plant according to the wine we want to produce.” Bertelsen expands on this idea: “Every vineyard suits a particular vine and wine,” he emphasizes. “And even within the same vineyard we see big differences in how the vines behave depending on weather, grape variety, soil, rootstock, irrigation, canopy management, hang time, and so on.” He notes that Merlot wines made from fruit grown in the eastern part of Mendoza are typically very different than those using fruit sourced from the western part of the region, which is 600 metres higher. Di Césare concurs with Bertelsen’s assessment of the impact of elevation. “High altitude vineyards provide a wide temperature range. Low temperatures at night and higher temperatures during the day make for perfect conditions for the harvesting of perfectly ripened fruit.” For Hobbs, site selection is critical for high-quality fruit. The vines for the Viña Cobos wines are planted in numerous high elevation vineyards throughout the Uco Valley and the department of Luján de Cuyo. The soils in these vineyards tend to be poor in organic material and blessed with deep layers of rock and mineral, as well as good drainage, resulting in fruit with concentration, structure, and complexity. Though the country has a long history of winemaking, the production of premium quality wines that can go head-tohead with the best in the world has been a relatively recent phenomenon. However, judging by the red wines being made by the likes of Hobbs, Bertelsen, and di Césare, the memory of the country’s winemaking past is melting away as a new industry rises in the shadows of the Andes. •
Trivento Cabernet/ Malbec 2012 ($15) If Malbec works, and Cabernet works, does blending them work? Happily, yes, as this wine proves. Aromatically, it offers nuances of mint, dark chocolate, vanilla, blackberry, and just a whiff of iodine. Round and smooth in the mouth with flavours suggesting chocolate, sweet tobacco, plum, mint, and coffee.
Trivento Malbec “Golden Reserve” 2009 ($23) From vineyards in Lujan de Cuyo, Argentina’s first official appellation, comes this intense, inky, muscular Malbec. Asian spices, sweet leather, cherry compote, and dark, smoky bramble give way to an ultra ripe, lush, heady palate that in spite of its power manages to retain balance and poise. Chocolate-coated cherry, anise, plum jam flavours are wrapped together with a kiss of toasty oak.
Finca el Origen “Gran Reserva” Malbec 2010 ($22) The fruit that goes into this concentrated and classy Malbec comes from Uco Valley vineyards situated at dizzying 1,200 meters above sea level that are blessed with ideal soil and a well-moderated climate. Deep, saturated purple in colour with a complex mix of coconut, exotic spice, cigar box, vanilla bean, violet, and the usual blueberry/ plum notes that seem to typify Argentine Malbecs. At 15% alcohol you kind of cross you’re fingers and pray for balance … and luckily, it’s there. This wine is extremely well integrated. All the usual flavour suspects are there (vanilla, mocha, blueberry, spice, dark plum, etc.). Very long on the finish.
Finca el Origen Gran Malbec Rosé ($13) Forward and fruity with aromas suggesting strawberry, candy apple, and cranberry, this fresh, lively rosé bursts with cranapple, wild herbs, and berry jam flavours.
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the
by merle rosenstein
hills
Chile’s cast of red varietal characters originated with the País grape, used by missionaries to make wine for mass in the mid-16th century. Hardy, versatile and drought resistant, País appealed to Chile’s pisco-drinking public. Then Cab Sauv reigned supreme and other Old World varietals joined the mix. Reds rule in Chile, accounting for 70 per cent of wine production. Through improvements in viticultural knowledge, winemakers have discovered optimum places to plant in 14 growing regions in valleys along the length of the country. Each region displays a diversity of soil conditions and microclimates, and three new complementary indications of quality distinguish finer growing niches within each region. The terms “Costa,” “Entre Cordilleras” and “Andes” adorn new wine labels. Costa, meaning coastal influence, refers to cooler sub-regions lying closer to the coast. Wines from Chile’s Costa sector have lively fruit, fresh acidity, and delightful balance and elegance. The Entre Cordilleras geographic indication runs between the Andes and the Coastal Range. Fertile flatlands and a Mediterranean climate produce elegant and fruity Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. The Andes geographic indication houses vineyards at the foot of or alongside the Andes Mountains. Exceptional ventilation creates large differences between daytime and nighttime temperatures and the height of the Andes regulates sun exposure. In Chile, winemakers are experimenting with cooler climates, broadening the range of reds and exploring uncharted territory. According to Vines Magazine editor Chris Waters, “there is a restless energy to find new terroirs and create premium wines at every price point. Only recently has Chile begun to challenge the hills.” The search for new places to plant bodes well for Chile’s stellar repertoire of reds.
24 // October 2013
A full repertoire
The most commonly planted red varieties in Chile are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Carmenere, according to Aurelio Montes Sr., International Vice-President of Wines of Chile and co-founder of Montes Wines. “Coming from Chile, Cabernet Sauvignon is by far the most well known and popular red variety. Merlot is second best, and gaining ground are Pinot Noir and Carménère,” he says. Montes also notes that there is a beginning trend towards Carignan. “In our terroir it can give really good and elegant wines.” Since 1994 when the old Bordeaux variety Carmenere was identified among Merlot vines, the interest in and quality of the grape and its blends has grown. Other fine reds from Chile now include Syrahs, Malbecs, old vine Carignan from Maule and red blends such as Syrah/Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon.
cabernet sauvignon
Chile’s star grape, Cabernet Sauvignon, a Bordeaux variety imported from France in the mid-19th century, accounts for more than one third of all plantings in Chile. This late-ripening grape favours the dry warm valleys of Aconcagua, Maipo, Cachapoal and Colchagua and produces rich red fruit, and berry, blackcurrant, and fig aromas. Chile’s first, largest and most prominent wine region, the sprawling Maipo Valley, encompasses the capital Santiago and produces premium Cabernet Sauvignon. Plantings in Alto Maipo in the foothills of the Andes display a distinctive eucalyptus edge. More complex versions often feature notes of tobacco, chocolate, black tea, black olive, liquorice and tar.
carménère
Chile’s signature grape Carménère, also an old Bordeaux variety, was widely planted in France but was not replanted following the phylloxera outbreak of the 1880s due to a tendency towards late ripening. Before the outbreak, wealthy Chileans transplanted cuttings of unaffected French vines in Chile, including ones they mistook for Merlot. For many years, it was thought that Carménère was extinct. In the early 1990s, French scientists visiting Chile were surprised by the appearance and character of Chilean Merlot and found that much of the Merlot in Chile was really Carménère. Chile is now the major world producer of this almost forgotten grape. Carménère has a deep red colour and with gentle tannins and rich flavours of plum, blackberry and spice. According to Marcela Burgos, Chilean wine expert, “Carménère is more like a teenager, but not a child. It’s come a long way in the past 20 years since its discovery. People have worked to plant it in the right sites not necessarily where it was planted when they thought it to be Merlot. Also, we are seeing more single varietal Carménère than ever before.”
merlot
The second most harvested variety in Chile, Merlot is a smooth bodied, easy-drinking fruity wine with soft tannins. Originally from Bordeaux, Merlot arrived in Chile in the mid-19th century, but didn’t hit its stride until the early 1990s and now resides in most valleys such as the Apalta region of Colchagua, Curico, Casablanca and Maipo.
syrah
Syrah is not a complete newcomer to Chile. As Montes explains, “There were some old, undefined clones of Syrah and Pinot Noir giving poor wines. No origin was known. They were good varieties, but after so many years there was some virus contamination and no clone selection was made, so we thought it was time for a change. So we [Montes Wines] were the first to bring to Chile selected clones of these varieties in the early 1990s.” The classic regions for Syrah are the North and South Rhône. Chile produces two types of Syrah, warm climate and cool climate. In cool climates, such as San Antonio or Elqui, Syrah develops a black-peppery spiciness that melds with fresh fruit and crisp acidity making it food-friendly and age-worthy. In warmer climates, such as Colchagua, the wines are often big and juicy, attracting lots of attention. Burgos notes that, “Cool climate Syrah has higher acidity, and is not so jammy. It has some peppery notes and tremendous aging potential. The aging potential is still being discovered because cool climate Syrah was first planted four or five years ago. The advantage of cool climate red varieties is the acidity and aging potential.”
pinot noir
Finicky Pinot Noir demands the right growing conditions to prosper. According to Burgos, Pinot noir is a “relatively emerging variety.” She notes that plantings are quite low because Pinot needs a very special terroir to thrive. “Chilean viticulturists and winemakers are feeling more confident about the results every year,” she says. Burgos explains that Bio Bio and Limari have good Pinot Noir and the right cool-to-moderate sites. She explains that Pinot is grown in the coastal areas or in the south where the climate is not so Mediterranean and is quite cool. “Pinot Noir has evolved as new regions have evolved,” she offers. “In traditional regions such as Maipo and Rapel Pinot Noir doesn’t grow well.”
malbec
Although most commonly associated with Argentina, some suggest that Malbec first appeared in Chile. Known as “the black wine” and partly wiped out in France by phylloxera, Malbec is seeing a resurgence of interest in the New World in Chile, Argentina, the US, Australia and South Africa. Chile’s Malbec is influenced by the cooling nature of the coast and mountains, which slows maturation and creates higher acidity and freshness. Viu Manent in Colchagua makes Malbec from 120-year-old vines.
carignan
Carignan, a varietal first established in Chile’s Maule Valley over 70 years ago, is being reborn. Established in 2009 by 12 founding wineries, Vigno or ‘Vignadores de Carignan’ is an organization of growers and winemakers marketing and promoting Carignan from the Maule Valley. The aim of working with Carignan was to support local wine growers and re-evaluate the potential of this region. Originally grown in the Mediterranean regions of France (Languedoc) and Spain (Priorat), Carignan thrives in dry conditions and was primarily used for blending. It exhibits good acidity, ripens late in the season and grows well in the hot, dry Maule Valley where mildew is not a problem. More recently Chilean winemakers realized that these dryfarmed, hand-harvested vines produce good wines in a variety of styles. Some wines exhibit pure red berry fruit and toasted oak, while others tend towards darker red plum, mulberry and black fruit. While most are aged in French and American oak, others are produced with little or no oak and reveal considerable earthiness and terroir. Chile’s making great gains all across the spectrum. Reds range in colour, tannins, taste, temperament and origin. Old vines are being rediscovered preserving a piece of Chile’s long history. New locations, combinations and styles give us alternative offerings to sip and sample. Looking forward, enhanced geographic indications will achieve much in describing and sharing the full and rich potential and diversity of this long, narrow, South American nation. •
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Change is tough. There aren’t too many of us who can claim to embark upon it willingly. After all, it’s not very comfortable. You’d have to be strong, courageous … actually a lot like this year’s pick of Maverick Chefs. They know a thing or two about yanking us out of our comfort zone and giving us a shove in the right direction. Take Nevin Fenske and Adam Hynam-Smith, for instance. Rather than keeping their eyes trained on their own kitchen counters, they chose to step out and make the food world a better place. These two accomplished chefs set their sights on changing the laws and attitudes surrounding food trucks. Once purveyors of little more than hot dogs, French fries and soft-serve ice cream, food trucks are now moveable feasts. Thanks to these two chefs, anyone walking by can get a gourmet meal to go. Innovators themselves, Emma Cardarelli and Wesley Young have also been driving forces in showing us what authentic cuisine really is. Gone are the days when menus featured only prime meat or pseudo-Italian food. Now, we’re eating cuts we never thought we would, like blood sausage or pig face and octopus terrine. Or indulging in fried salt cod just like one would in Italy. Like Nevin and Adam, Emma and Wesley refuse to allow us to stay ensconced within the familiar. These four truly creative professionals have transformed us in much more fundamental ways. Even our long held perceptions about what food should be and where we should eat it are fading. That, folks, has been their most difficult challenge, and though the odds they faced seemed insurmountable, they beat them. Today, Nevin, Adam, Emma and Wesley showcase the beauty and easy accessibility of great cuisine. Go visit them, and let them know how much we appreciate their work.
by RosemaRy mantini
26 // October 2013
+ For past mav chefs visit quench.me/mavericks/
You might say that Emma Cardarelli’s fate was sealed. After all, she grew up in Montreal West. She had the good fortune of inhaling a rich, vibrant and multi-ethnic food scene on a daily basis. Emma tells me that the dance of cultures opened her mind and taste buds to what food could be. She takes inspiration from all the different neighbourhoods, and what they have to offer. Surely, that alone would awaken a desire to become a chef in pretty much anyone. But, it wasn’t that exactly for her. Perhaps it was her father who inspired her deep love of food. “He and I spent many a Sunday afternoon in the kitchen listening to his opera collection, making lasagna or roast pork loin with a million vegetable sides.” These are the kinds of experiences that take root in the mind and heart of a future chef whether or not she reexecutive alizes it. In fact, Emma didn’t. Having chef completed university with a double and major in English and Psychology, and co-owner not knowing where to go from there, Emma decided to try cooking at a lodge in Yoho National Park. “There couldn’t have been a more perfect or alluring introduction to the restaurant industry,” montreal she says. “It was a casual and creative quebec environment, not to mention the 10,000 foot mountains surrounding the lodge!” That atmosphere gave Emma the licence to begin discovering exactly where her talents lie. She was 22 years old before she finally realized that being the Italian food she loves and interpret it in authena chef was her true calling, “which is pretty late in tic ways that make everyone else love it, too. “The the cooking world,” she confides. Right from the be- Italian food that North Americans eat has very little ginning, Emma’s talent and passion for learning set to do with the food that one finds in Italy,” she tells her apart. Chef Fred Morin, now chef and co-owner me. “The food at Nora Gray is inspired completely of Joe Beef, immediately took her under his wing. by my trips to Southern Italy and the cookbooks I’ve “Working with Fred taught me the true meaning of bought there.” Emma’s goal is to be faithful to the mentorship, which I find is the foundation of this food she has experienced in Italy, and create the most delicious and uncomplicated meals that underscore profession,” she says. Now, she pays it forward. Her restaurant, Nora Gray, a collaboration with those true flavours. If her customers have anything to co-owners Lisa McConnell and Ryan Gray, showcas- say about it (and they do), Emma consistently gives es Emma’s broad talent. She knows just how to take them plenty of reasons to come back for more.
nora gray
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executive chef and co-owner
drift food truck edmonton If you can know only one interesting fact about Edmonton, it’s that the Festival City has a vibrant food culture, and that Nevin and Kara Fenske have been an integral part of bringing that great cuisine to the street. OK, that’s two interesting facts. When Nevin graduated as a Red Seal from NAIT’s Culinary Program, he and Kara became keenly aware that there was a dearth of high quality street food available around the city. Their solution? To face the challenges head-on, of course. By the time the dust had settled, Drift Food Truck was born. The two of them have been reaping the rewards ever since, and patrons have been noshing on delicious fare, like a pork belly sandwich filled with pickled carrot and daikon, chili mayo, hoisin glaze and fresh cilantro. I asked Nevin why they would choose to operate in a food truck as opposed to the standard bricks-and-mortar-style restaurant. Apart from the freedom to serve people anywhere, he admits that it’s simply more affordable. There are, however, limitations to a food truck that other restaurants just don’t have to tackle. The work and serving areas are necessarily small, he says, and alcohol can’t be served. Despite the challenges, the concept of the touring feast fits these two innovators perfectly. They are unmitigated travellers. Having trekked around the world (and the streets of Edmonton), their passion for diverse flavours comes through in their menu creations. Nevin is quick to say that their food is “globally influenced, locally sourced.” Nevin and Kara remain inspired by their travels and love of bold flavours, and you will be, too.
28 // October 2013
photo: Cooper and O’Hara
alberta
Which cookbook changed
What’s the most embarrassing
everything for you? I don’t
thing that you’ve done while
know about changing everything for me, but I do like Thomas Keller and Michael Chang’s books.
cooking? Anytime I’ve burned
or cut myself, I find it embarrassing. If you were more focused on the task at hand, the injury could have been avoided.
What’s your favourite country to eat in? Mexico and
Vietnam.
What’s your favourite kitchen tool? I like the versatility of
my 7-inch chef’s knife.
What are you fanatical about? Pho, samosas and tacos. What music do you like to play in the kitchen? A variety, just
like our cooking style, from Neil Young to Daft Punk.
What’s your favourite drink?
I love trying new beers and scotch. Old favourites are Pilsner Urquell and Lagavulin.
What makes your restaurant stand apart from the others?
Being a food truck makes us stand out already, and after that, we hope our creative options and service! I think that the customers really like being able to see what’s happening while they wait, and also getting to talk to the chef. You don’t always get to meet the guys who work back of the house in traditional restaurant settings.
3 Scotch bonnets 10 garlic cloves 2 yellow onions 2 “thumbs” ginger pieces ½ fresh pineapple 4 tbsp allspice
What are your plans for
2. Clean pineapple (cored, too) and ginger, rough
the future? To sell alcohol. Perhaps a brick and mortar restaurant. Do you have anything surprising
to have in your kitchen? Bad work ethics and bad attitudes.
in your home fridge? Right now, hot dogs. Who doesn’t need one once in a while? Plus you can load them with toppings.
Name an overrated ingredi-
You’ve got 24 hours left to
ent. Bacon. Not everything is
live. What’s your last meal?
Is there something you refuse
improved by adding it ...
Granddad’s chicken curry with grandmom’s chapatis.
Name an underrated ingredient. Good salt and acids
(vinegars, citrus, wines).
What’s your favourite meal to cook at home? In the summer
don’t like? Fig Newtons,
watermelon and frozen fish sticks.
I love to grill, it allows you to hang out outside and drink beer. I also enjoy making curry and chapatis or fresh pasta, of course time permitting.
What rule of conduct matters
What do you like to do in
more than any other in your
your spare time? Spend time
Is there a food that you really
ways be aware of the sense of urgency.
with family. Have spills with friends. Definitely travel, and eat out as well.
What skill does someone most
If you weren’t a chef, what
need in your kitchen? Efficien-
would you be doing? Playing
kitchen? Work and talk. Al-
cy and organization.
professional tennis.
sauce * yields 2 litres 3 4
tsp nutmeg tbsp dried thyme ½ cup golden sugar 2 cups white vinegar ½ cup soy sauce Juice of 4 limes 1 cup olive oil
1. Rough chop Scotch bonnets, garlic and yellow onions. Put aside in bowl. chop and add to bowl.
3. Mix together spices, sugar then add to bowl. 4. In a separate bowl, mix together the vinegar, soy sauce & lime juice.
5. Using a food processor, mix together your pepper and spice mix, slowly adding the liquids.
6. Blend until smooth. Slowly add olive oil. chicken
Debone whole chicken into 8 pieces, and cut the breasts in half. Mix 2 cups of jerk sauce with raw chicken. Place chicken pieces on grill, turning and flipping once, letting them char nicely. Remove from grill and coat with approximately 1 cup of jerk sauce. Roast pieces in oven at 375˚F to finish cooking for 20 min or until 160°F. Let meat cool, then pull off of bone and shred.
grilled pineapple
lime slaw
to build sandwich:
Clean and core 1 pineapple and cut into 4 pieces lengthwise. Toss in olive oil and salt. Grill until slightly charred. Let cool, and slice thinly.
Use a mandolin to cut carrot pieces into matchsticks. Combine with sliced green and red cabbage. Mix with mayonnaise and lime juice.
Heat some jerk sauce in a pan or on flat-top, add chicken until warm. Place on bun and top with 4 to 5 slices of pineapple and a helping of lime slaw.
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executive chef and co-owner
el gastrónomo vagabundo St Catharines, ontario
There was a time when Adam Hynam-Smith might have been called impractical. After all, his dream of operating a food truck couldn’t possibly be realized. There were laws against such things. But then, who would guess the full extent of Adam’s passion and determination to deliver gourmet food to people anywhere a truck could take him? Adam took on the city’s by-laws and won. The second challenge, the general public’s perception of food trucks, wasn’t quite so easy to change. Operating a food truck was tough in the beginning. “People wanted fries, burgers and hotdogs, and when they saw our menu, they would turn their noses up,” he recounts. “Then they would complain about prices, portion sizes and wait times.” Even the media seemed to be standing against him. “We would have articles coming out in papers or on blogs and people would crucify us saying food trucks are dirty, a health hazard.” Thankfully for Adam, and certainly luckily for us, times have changed, and perceptions of what street food can be are slowly, but surely, evolving. Asked why he remains in Ontario, Adam says he is inspired by the “amazing boom of talented Ontario chefs doing great things.” He also feeds his tremendous creativity by teaming up with the multitude of talented chefs in Toronto and the Niagara area to do events or dinners where he can prepare a non-street food dish that showcases his extensive talent. El Gastrónomo Vagabundo’s location and menu change regularly. Be sure to check out their website, www.elgastro.com, for the most up-to-date information. Ah yes, that menu … with delicacies like Spongecod Lemonpants and Ninja Assassin … I bet you’ll have trouble choosing just one item.
30 // October 2013
with fried new potatoes broccoli and aioli
Serves 4, with leftover marinated octopus
Prepare octopus at least 24 hours in advance. Octopus will keep in refrigerator for up to 2 weeks if completely submerged in marinade.
½ bunch fresh oregano 4 cups vegetable oil 8 cloves of garlic, finely crushed 1 whole octopus Per kilogram of octopus, 2 tbsp of red wine vinegar plus ¼ cup for dressing Per kilogram of octopus, 1 tbsp of salt 20 new potatoes 1 head of broccoli Aioli (refer to recipe below) 6 sprigs flat leaf parsley Vegetable oil for frying Pinch of fleur de sel
photo of Adam: Mitchell Reilly Pictures; octopus photo: Suresh Doss
What obstacle does having a
What was your first job in a
What rule of conduct matters
food truck present to you?
professional kitchen? The
more than any other in your
live. What’s your last meal?
kitchen? Cleanliness, I can’t
My Nan’s roast lamb and sago plum pudding.
same as most chefs, aqua technician.
I can’t fully express myself through food, as I am very limited to what I can prepare and serve given the space and equipment on the truck, and what is an acceptable price point for street food.
rules football, the two greatest games in the world!
Where did you grow up? Cas-
Do you have a guilty secret
tlemaine, a beautiful country town two hours north of Melbourne in Australia.
What made you decide you wanted to be a chef? Nothing, I just knew.
My mum always says that as a rug rat I would spend hours piss farting around in the kitchen making stuff that tasted like crap. But I sure enjoyed making it! Times have changed now, though.
method for dressing
1. In large bowl, pour ¼ cup red wine
vinegar, 8 crushed cloves of garlic, and ½ bunch fresh oregano. Whisk in 4 cups vegetable oil. Set aside until ready to use.
method for octopus
2. Weigh octopus.
For every kilogram of octopus, add 2 tbsp red wine vinegar and 1 tbsp salt to a large pot. 3. Place octopus in pot and cover with lid on high heat. 4. When liquid in pot bubbles, turn down to medium heat. 5. Octopus will start to release its own juices, as these juices start to bubble, turn to low and simmer with lid on until octopus is tender. To check, cut a tentacle off, slice a
What are you fanatical about? Cricket and Aussie
ingredient? I don’t feel guilty
about any of my ingredients.
stand a dirty kitchen. First thing every apprentice should learn is how to clean the entire kitchen from top to bottom on a nightly basis. That way they won’t make a mess. And always look after your kitchen hand! It’s the most important role in the resto.
What’s the most embarrassing What is your favourite drink?
thing that you’ve done while
Plenty of hoppy beers.
cooking? I burnt $180 worth of saffron in one hit.
What is an overrated ingredient?
Lobster.
Coffee, lots of coffee, toast with avocado and Vegemite.
small piece, and taste for tenderness. 6. Once octopus is cooked, remove octopus from pot and place on a large tray. 7. Carefully cut off all tentacles and discard head and beak, reserving meat from around beak. 8. Allow octopus to cool for approximately 15 minutes. 9. Carefully slice tentacles and meat from around beak into disks 1 cm thick and add to red wine vinegar dressing. Place in container and refrigerate for 24 hours.
11. Strain potatoes,
method for potatoes:
sized pot of water to a boil. 17. Prepare ice bath in medium sized bowl with cold water and ice.
10. Place potatoes into pot of cold water and bring to simmer. Cook until fork tender.
What’s your favourite meal to cook at home? Snags on the
barbie.
Where do you shop for ingredients? My local Asian grocer, and I get all my seafood through Tide and Vine — a local food truck/seafood wholesaler. During the growing season we go through local farms like Tree and Twig and Whitty Farms.
What do you eat for breakfast?
What is an underrated ingredient? Anchovies.
You’ve got 24 hours left to
place on tray and set aside to cool to room temperature. 12. Once cooled, slice potatoes lengthwise into disks ½ cm thick. 13. Heat oil in pan over high heat. Shallow-fry potato disks until golden brown on both sides. 14. Remove potatoes from oil and place on paper towel to absorb excess oil. 15. Lightly season potatoes with salt, to taste and set aside until ready to serve.
method for broccoli:
16. Bring medium
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be doing? Hopeful-
ly playing cricket for Australia’s first 11.
18. Break broccoli into
very small florets and blanch in boiling water for 10 seconds. 19. Refresh broccoli in ice bath to stop cooking process. Strain broccoli and place in a container lined with paper towel to absorb excess water. Set aside until ready to serve.
aioli 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely crushed 1 large free-range egg yolk 1 tsp Dijon mustard 2 ¼ cup vegetable oil Lemon juice, to taste ¼ tsp salt
method for aioli:
20. In food processor, place egg yolk, mustard, garlic, and
salt. Slowly add oil while blending. Once oil is added, turn off food processor. 21. Scrape contents of food processor into container, and gently mix in lemon juice, to taste.
to serve:
22. Create a bed of
fried potato disks in a circular arrangement on the plate. Randomly place 6 to 8 pieces of marinated octopus on top of potatoes. 23. With a teaspoon, place dime-sized drops of aioli in and around potatoes and octopus. 24. Randomly place small florets of broccoli throughout plated dish. 25. Garnish with small tears of flat leaf parsley. 26. Season lightly with fleur de sel and serve immediately.
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Today, Wesley is able to fully express his creativity and commitment to serving his customers mouth-watering dishes, like compressed heritage cabbage, apples, chilled saltspring island mussels and snow. Here is a chef who has taken the concept of whole animal cookery to heart. “I can’t say there’s another approach that I value more than this one,” he assures me. “Respecting the animals to use as much as possible with little or no waste, and the integrity of the process [is what matters],” he says. Wesley recognizes that executive chef his customers have become very interested in the food their grandparents would have vancouver eaten and the ways in which Wesley Young admits british columbia that food was often prepared. I that the road to becoming a chef was often fraught with doubt. asked him if this trend influences how he develops Working 17-hour days, the modern, high and cooks his dishes. “Well, we certainly celebrate stress environment of a restaurant kitchen and utilize classic techniques and traditions in our made him question whether or not he really daily practice,” he tells me, “and it’s our hope that wanted to pursue that life. What young man through the powers of taste and aroma we can make wants to spend his nights sweating over a hot those visceral, sublime connections with our guests.” stove? Surely, Wesley might have preferred Ultimately, it’s that awareness of producing quality to hang out with his friends sipping his fa- and authentic food that makes Wildebeest stand out vourite cocktail, the Negroni. But, this man’s from the rest. For Wesley and his team, “it’s a desire irrepressible passion to work with food, and to make a positive impact and gently educate our his drive to be the best, demanded that he keep staff and guests in the importance of our philosophy, his eyes focused steadily on the future. After while making delicious, honest and unpretentious all, this is the same Wesley who, at 8 years of food.” As for the future? Wesley doesn’t want much, age, baked lasagna for his family and knew just “more learning, more teaching, [and making] a without any misgivings that his future lay in greater impact upon our community.” Given how the realm of the culinary. So, despite the ex- much Wesley has accomplished up to now, there’s no doubt he’ll fulfil those goals, too. • hausting hours, he stuck with it.
wildebeest
32 // October 2013
united by michael pinkus
We’re Canadians, so there are certain things that unite us from coast to coast ... like our weather, nobody is happy with the weather we get and so we complain, yet we continue to live where we do without even giving any thought that we’re going to move. We grin and bear it — that’s who we are after all. What unites wine drinkers from coast to coast is Cabernet Franc. quench.me
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Oh sure, every region makes Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (we’re cool climate), but in the search for a fuller-bodied red we Canadians turn to Cabernet Franc. Everywhere else in the world sees this grape primarily used in blends, with the rare winery willing to make a single varietal version; but here in the Great White North the rarity becomes normality, there aren’t many serious wineries not making Cabernet Franc, or at least not taking a serious stab at it. Do winemakers just take the varietal more seriously here? “The most obvious reason,” says Derek Barnett, winemaker at Lailey Vineyard in Niagara-on-the-Lake, “is it usually ripens a couple of weeks earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon, giving winemakers and growers a little more time to get the grapes to the maturity levels that are needed ... we will have more consistency in wines produced from vintage to vintage.” Brian Schmidt, winemaker at Vineland, talks about the grape from a global view. “From a varietal perspective there are not a lot of wine regions in the world that have either A) the climate or B) the desire to take on the challenge of growing Cabernet Franc — not only from the viticultural perspective but also from a consumer perspective. When you look the world over there is really only the Loire [France] for Cabernet Franc; there are not a lot of regions clamouring to make it therefore the comparison factor is also low. People don’t have a global comparison, they won’t say ‘this Cab Franc is not as good as that one from California or Chile’ — it’s completely open territory; unlike Cabernet Sauvignon which we could not compete with.” As far as flavour profile goes, Barnett sees Franc as more delicate than Cabernet Sauvignon but just as age worthy: “Wines produced are usually a little lighter in colour than Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon but carry the same intensity of flavour and often have ‘prettier’ aromatics ... and they can often age really well,” he explains, citing a wine he recently opened from 1998. This year’s All Canadian Wine Championships underscored the versatility of Cabernet Franc and its reputation among Canadians, awarding Ontario’s Hillebrand 2010 Red Shale Cabernet Franc the red wine of the year title ... and that was against Syrahs, Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlots, Pinot Noirs and any other red you can name grown here. The winemaker behind that wine, Craig McDonald, explains what it takes to make a great wine from this grape: “Cabernet Franc has taught me you get as much out of it as you are willing to invest in it! It needs a little gentle persuasion but when you adopt a balanced approach the rewards can be outstanding. It’s the Pinot Noir of the Bordeaux family.” It looks like Cabernet Franc is getting its due across this great land.
Stanners Cabernet Franc 2010, Ontario ($25)
Smells of raspberry, strawberry, vanilla, white pepper and cigar box really lure you in for the taste, then — bang — a smooth alluring texture with creamy blackberry-vanilla notes with spice and black pepper back it up and give it lift. Then there’s the strawberry finish and black cherry that lingers, all brought together with mouth-cleansing acidity.
34 // October 2013
Vineland Estates Cabernet Franc 2011, Ontario ($13)
Brian Schmidt shows consistency with this grape once again even in the tough 2011 vintage. Light and fruity, this wine begs as much for a chill as it does for you to enjoy it at room temp. A nice raspberry-tobacco note greets the nose and continues on the mouth, adding a touch of cranberry cocktail, along with cherry and vanilla for good measure. By the third or fourth sip the juiciness of this wine really hits you. Drink now through 2015.
Thirty Bench Small Lot Cabernet Franc 2010, Ontario ($40)
Not your typical Franc here. Sure there are notes of raspberry and tobacco — there’s even a smokiness with some cherry backing — but there’s also a silkiness across the tongue and a cocoa-chocolate finish that makes it seem more Merlot-esque, making this one a bit of a Franc-en-steen, though one worth taking home to meet the family.
Rockway Vineyards Cabernet Franc Small Lot Reserve 2010, Ontario ($25)
Here we have a best-barrels, 172-case production wine that shows real promise for the future of Rockway. Sure, I have a soft spot for Cabernet Franc but that does impair my judgment about finding a good one — in fact it makes me more finicky about Franc. Nose of tobacco with hints of cherry, but it remains mainly closed. The palate is much more expressive: tobacco, blackberry, black cherry, smoky and spicy with tannins that hang out on the sidelines: adding depth without overpowering.
Pondview Bella Terra Cabernet Franc 2010, Ontario ($30)
The Bella Terra Franc is a barrel selection of the best wines made in that year. The barrels used are a 50/50 mix of American and French, of which 20% are new, aged 18 months. The resulting wine is something you can age for a decade with confidence. Aromas of tobacco-laced black raspberry and a palate filled with spicy cigar box-tobacco with hefty tannins. The background is dark fruited and spicy but with time the fruit should rise above it all. Buy now and age 2 to 3 years before giving it a go.
Pillitteri Cabernet Franc Exclamation Reserve 2010, Ontario ($35)
This wine proves Pillitteri’s commitment to the Cabernet Franc grape. The palate and nose are in lockstep (tobacco, cherry, raspberry and smoke); the palate is also backed by spice, cigar ash and smoke, but remains tasty and juicy all the while.
Inniskillin Three Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2010, Ontario ($23)
While this wine is juicy, there is a nice complexity that gets you coming back for more, more, more. Sweet fruited with raspberry and vanilla followed by cocoa and some toasty notes that sometimes slip into smoky before the finish lingers with bright raspberry once again.
Muscedere Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2011, Ontario ($18)
The boys of Muscedere continue to impress vintage after vintage — they are part of the new wave of wineries that entered the region in the mid-2000s. Their specialty seems to be coaxing the best out of their red grapes. This version of Cabernet Franc is smoky yet fruity with dark raspberries and cherries along with a persistent raspberry-tobacco core. Silky across the palate with enough spice to keep it interesting; look out for the spiced raspberry finish.
Cassini Cellars Cabernet Franc 2009, British Columbia ($45)
Showing consistency with each vintage is admirable, but the heat of the 2009 vintage provided more oomph to the wine than the above-mentioned 2010. Lush red berries greet the nose while the palate rolls out cherry and raspberry fruit wrapped in smoky goodness with plenty of tannic punch on the finish.
Lailey Cabernet Franc Unfiltered 2010, Ontario ($30)
This is a limited edition wine that never saw the winery shelves, as it was snapped up during the winery’s pre-release get-together in December 2011. The nose is full of blackberry, black raspberry, cherry-tobacco and vanilla notes, while the flavours really sing in the mouth: black cherry, cassis, a touch of tobacco, blackberry and hints of spice with some subtle pepper nuances, all wrapped up in some very silky tannins.
Hillebrand Showcase Red Shale Cabernet Franc 2010, Ontario ($40)
Most definitely, without even a hint of a doubt, this is the best Cabernet Franc I’ve tried (so far) from the 2010 vintage — it truly is the perfect expression of Niagara Franc. Smells of cigar box and smoked raspberry greet the nose, while on the palate you’ll find cigar-tobacco with smoky blackberry and raspberry. This might sound rather simple but some of the best wines don’t strive to over-achieve, they just are what they are. And this one has such a beautiful elegance to it. This wine won best red at the All Canadian Wine Championships 2013.
Quinta Ferreira Cabernet Franc 2009, BC ($30)
One of the best BC Francs I have tried all year — rivals the Hillebrand and in fact ranked second behind it in a blind tasting. It’s the balance and simplicity that really make this wine. Nose of smoky-tobacco and raspberry with a lovely balance of fruit and smoke on the palate.
Stag’s Hollow Cabernet Franc 2010, British Columbia ($28)
This is a very subtle version of Franc, especially on the nose: raspberry and spice are most noticeable; the palate is definitely richer with red and black fruit and elements of smoky cedar.
Summerhill Pyramid Organic Cabernet Franc 2009, British Columbia ($35)
I’m still not fully sold on organic wines, as I find them very hit and miss; but this Summerhill is a hit with its cherry, raspberry, baker’s cocoa and sweet spice aromas followed on the palate with the subtlety of fresh and dried raspberries along with hints of tobacco.
lailey’s winemaker Derek Barnett
Hester Creek 3 Block Reserve Cabernet Franc 2010, British Columbia ($27) I recommend this one because it’s not your typical raspberry-tobacco Franc and shows there is more to this grape even when it is not textbook: smoky bacon notes are all over this wine and that makes it interesting and intriguing; maybe something to have as a breakfast beverage or mix with sparkling for a twist on the usual mimosa.
Church and State Coyote’s Bowl Cabernet Franc 2009, British Columbia ($35)
The aromas might take you back to the days of owning your first Chrysler Cordoba, with all that new leather mixing with cherry and black liquorice; flavours also lean leathery (both the smoked and fruit variety), fruit-wise you will find some nice raspberry essence.
Desert Hills Cabernet Franc 2009, British Columbia ($25)
This is a juicy version of Cabernet Franc with plenty of generous fruit on the palate, you’ll also find smoky-raspberry and silky tannins round it off in the mouth. •
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rows by rick vansickle
The scenery can morph from pastoral to grandiose to country kitsch in the blink of an eye. Niagara wine country comes in all shapes and sizes and I soak it up in an unending quest to discover the next big thing, that one wine that shines just a little brighter than all the others. You can only find it by exploring the far reaches of Niagara, from the perfectly paved roads to the dusty trails that look like they lead square into the middle of nowhere. I take in the popular wineries, for sure, but I am also looking for unique wines made by winemakers who are driven by nothing more than their passion for the very best of what Niagara can deliver. This is where I find excitement. That uncompromising desire to craft wines that rise high above the tide; wines that have the potential to set new benchmarks in a young region still finding its way. Who will take Niagara to the next level? What does the future look like? Funny you should ask. We just may have some of the answers right here as we explore four Niagara visionaries who are just beginning to step out of the shadows with wines and portfolios that show this region at its very best. This is our fantastic four:
36 // October 2013
five rows craft wine
You need to know where you’re going to find this small, family-run winery in the heart of St Davids. An inconspicuous sign on York Road points left on Tanbark Road, through a small subdivision and down a dusty dirt road to the tiny barn where miniscule quantities of wine are bottled and hand-numbered, each and every one of them, every vintage. Here you find the Lowreys, a fifth-generation farming family working a 35-acre vineyard that produces craft wine grapes for top wineries in the area. The family, Howard and Wilma Lowrey, and son Wes, are primarily growers who supply some of Niagara’s best fruit to a select few wineries and winemakers. Howard and Wilma run the accomplished wine grape growing operation and tasting room at Lowrey Vineyards while Wes, a winemaker and viticulturalist by training, crafts small batches of wine that exemplify the terroir of the St. Davids Bench and the style of the Lowrey farm. Only 700 cases of wine are made spread across six varieties: Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir.
I travel these country roads often, past the roadside fruit stands, row after row of vigorous vines swaying in the summer breeze and farmers tending to their corn, potatoes, peaches, grapes and whatever else turns dirt into cash.
The name of the winery is a tribute to the original five rows of Pinot Noir planted on the family farm that has been the source of some of Niagara’s finest Pinot over the years.
to find that if I was motivated to grow the best grapes, the end result was usually premium wines.”
what we like about five rows:
Kevin Panagapka, owner, winemaker and chief bottle washer of this “virtual winery” has made some stunning wines since he started his business in 2007. As a virtual winemaker (he does not own a winery and operates under a “host” licence, in this case Featherstone winery in Vineland) Panagapka is able to source grapes from what he feels are the top vineyards in Niagara. He is simply making some of the finest wines in Niagara from the varieties he thinks do best in this region: Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Panagapka has the advantage of purchasing fruit from the finest vineyards in the sub-appellations: Pinots from Queenston Road on the St Davids Bench; Chardonnay from Wismer’s Fox Croft Block on the Twenty Mile Bench; Riesling from Falls Vineyard and Fox Croft Vineyard on Vinemount Ridge. It’s a formula that has worked brilliantly for Panagapka. The best fruit with wines made exactly how he wants to make them and no one from marketing or finance on his case.
First of all, when you visit the winery you are always greeted cheerfully by Wilma Lowrey, no matter how crowded the tasting room is. You can taste the wine but be prepared for a friendly conversation about anything but the wine. Then there’s Wes Lowrey’s style of wines. He uses top fruit for a small production that highlights what he feels grows best in St Davids and he makes them all in a style that is consistent year after year. These are substantive wines unique to Five Rows that are bold, highly structured and worthy of your cellar.
the motivation behind five rows from wes lowrey:
“After many years of marvelling at what other winemakers were doing with our fruit, I felt starting my own winery was dependent on producing those same great wines — something I was not sure I had the skill do at first. Luckily, I came
2027 cellars
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thomas bachelder
Thomas Bachelder has spent the vast majority of his time on this earth in pursuit of good Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. And he has done it well, from Burgundy to Oregon and at his home base of Niagara. There is no questioning his skill with these two grapes; his illustrious resumé speaks for itself. But the path he and his wife, Mary Delaney, are now on is getting the full attention of wine lovers not only in Ontario and the rest of Canada but also in the other two regions he’s making wine: Oregon and Burgundy. The Thomas Bachelder project, a tri-regional virtual winery adventure, that takes him on the road for 12 weeks of the year, is now in its third vintage for the Chardonnays, while the first Pinot Noirs started arriving at stores in the fall. Bachelder applies the same winemaking skills to each of his wines under his label: organically-sourced grapes where possible, minimal intervention, the same deft touch with similar, mostly older, oak barrels for 16 months, and all, or mostly all, grapes fermented using wild yeasts. He takes a Burgundian approach to winemaking and has turned out single-vineyard wines as well as more regional blends to expand the portfolio.
what we like about thomas bachelder:
graham and christine rennie
what we like about 2027 cellars:
Panagapka is one of the finest winemakers in Niagara, an independent soul who is fond of saying “I make wines that I like to drink.” All his wines are terroir-driven and he has found the right vineyards for the varieties he makes. His new Pinot Noir from 2011 is stunning and is the first Pinot to show a new direction for him with this grape. After producing pretty, silky, delicate Pinots, he’s moved in the direction of the Chambertin style from the Côte de Nuits in Burgundy. These are longer-lasting wines with grip and will fully reveal themselves over time as all that fruit, wood spice and tannins harmonize.
It is the passion of Bachelder that shines in all his wines. He sources wonderful fruit from his connections in all three regions and from there he lets the fruit do the talking. His 2010 Wismer Chardonnay (Niagara) received the highest score I have ever given a white table wine in Niagara (94 points) and the 2011 wines, both the Pinots and Chardonnays, are going to knock the socks off a lot of wine lovers when they start arriving in stores this fall. Bachelder has arrived and he has quickly established himself at the top end of winemaking in Ontario and beyond.
the motivation behind 2027 cellars from kevin panagapka:
“For me it’s the challenge of producing unique wines from each single vineyard. I’m fascinated with the concept of ‘terrior’ and its application to single vineyard wines in Niagara. Each year that I make a wine from a single vineyard, I gain some new perspective on the various attributes of the site.”
38 // October 2013
Rennie photo: Lorne Bridgeman
wes lowrey
the motivation behind thomas bachelder wines from thomas bachelder:
“I am motivated to make terroir-based wines that reflect their regions, their vineyards and the season in which they were made … the grape type comes in afterwards — first, we have a duty to make wines that sing of the soil from which they were born.”
rennie estate winery
Graham and Christine Rennie turned their dream of owning a vineyard into reality when they purchased one of the oldest vineyards on the Beamsville Bench in 1997. Now called the Heron Pond Vineyard, it is the source of some of the top wines in Constellation Brands’ Niagara portfolio. Graham Rennie is a highly successful businessman and could have bought his dream vineyard anywhere he wanted but chose Niagara because he saw potential.
The couple now take a small portion of their own grapes and make about 700 cases of super-premium Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and a dried-grape style of wine, using the Malivoire production facility. His approach is to make small-lot artisanal wines, using the Italian appassimento method of drying grapes as well as a Ripasso style of wine to go with a top-notch Pinot and Chardonnay. A new temperature-controlled drying facility is being developed and partially funded by Rennie in a partnership with the Vineland Research and Innovation Centre.
what we like about rennie estate winery:
Graham Rennie is driven by his competitive spirit to be the best at whatever he does and that extends to his wines. His passion is to make appassimento-style wines from the top-notch Bordeaux varietals he grows in his vineyard. His signature Gaia is a stunning example of where the dried-grape style of winemaking can go in Niagara. He takes no shortcuts and replicates the drying process used in Veneto to get maximum concentration and complexity in his wines. Not to be overlooked are both the Chardonnay and Pinot he makes from Heron Pond fruit. Both are wonderfully made examples of terroir-driven Bench wines at the top end of the quality spectrum.
the motivation behind rennie estate winery from graham rennie:
thomas bachelder
“Given my drive to succeed and love of a good challenge it was predictable that I would attempt to produce a Super Niagara Bordeaux varietal wine. Producing small lot, red wine that would ‘blow consumers away’ seemed like a very worthwhile and demanding challenge. The thought of achieving this goal was very motivational for me.” •
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by
Duncan Holmes
Off the top, a warning that this piece contains mature subject matter, and reader discretion is advised. That out of the way, I can tell you that one Saturday afternoon a while back, after I had baked the week’s bread, and the kitchen was back to near-normal, I thought it might be a kick to craft my own version of some really, really hot, Tabasco-like sauce. More later.
40 // October 2013
For reasons known only to some very clever people who have the time to study these things, most all of humankind likes to take a run, from time to time, at a taste, or tastes, that are tongue-tingling hot and spicy. For some, it’s a Bucket List thing, like climbing Everest. But more than likely — and I know you’ll agree — it’s in our genes. Until we’ve fried our brains, tongues, and tummies to the point of no return, we all — well, most of us — will keep on soaking ourselves silly with the heat of spices that good old Mother Nature so willingly provides. And enjoying it time after time. Mustard, wasabi, the chili family and more. Stir them in, or splash them on, and familiar, unadulterated tastes are kick-started into stratospheres of taste excitement. Yep, that’s the word. Excitement. Right in the privacy of our own dining rooms, we can legitimately blow our brains to pieces with a splash, a dash; a spoonful of the spicy stuff that our DNA forces us to eat. Again and again. I could go to jail for this, but when she was very, very young, I used to take turns to get up in the middle of the night to feed formula to my darling, first-born daughter. On the label of the can it read that this stuff should be mixed with water that has been boiled, then cooled to body temperature. (Remember the squirt on the wrist from the bottle?) While this time-consuming, boiling-cooling thing was happening, it was often my secret practice to trot baby round the kitchen on my hip, on adventures of great taste. Salt, sugar, ketchup, mayo, and yes, a finger gently dipped for sucking into a range of spices. I sampled the darling with cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, mustard, ginger, paprika, garam masala, and more. Was it painful for baby? Amazingly, all I got were smiles; an indication that even as infants we are delighted to discover that spiciness is waaaay more exciting than boring formula. My daughter survived, thrived, and has matured into a spice-loving adult, none the worse for her early-life, pre-dawn adventures. And yes, I’ve eluded the slammer! (Even if later on, I fed wasabi to my grandson and watched, as through tears he said: “More!”) But back to the Saturday thing. I have read, and now know, that for non-oral tissues, the burning produced by capsaicin, the irritating chemical in chili peppers, can be very painful. We are told that when preparing peppers, it is wise to wear rubber gloves or hold the peppers in a paper towel or plastic wrap. Fingers that have handled hot peppers should be washed thoroughly and kept out of the eyes and other sensitive tissues, including those of the pelvic region. If you should get capsaicin on sensitive tissues, flush quickly with lots of water to reduce the irritation. Which meant that after the bathroom call I had midway through my chili-grinding adventure, I had to flush and ice-cube my pelvic region for the rest of the afternoon and on into the evening! Now relax. That was the mature part.
comfort custard The only allusion to spices with this smooth and tasty comfort standby is that I load the top with grated nutmeg. Mind you, I load lots of recipes, savoury and sweet, with grated nutmeg.
1 2 3 4 1
tbsp custard powder tbsp flour tbsp sugar tbsp skim milk powder egg
1. Mix the ingredients together in a saucepan
with water until smooth. 2. Add about 2 litres of boiling water and a dash of lemon essence, and stir until thickened. 3. Pour into a serving dish and sprinkle generously with grated nutmeg. …… Serve hot or cold, as is, or as a topping for pie or fresh or canned fruit. Yum.
Spices, not to be confused with gentler herbs, have been peppering up the world for thousands of years. They have been used as currency, opened up and established trade routes, added to other foods to make us sweat and cool us down in hot climates; to preserve food, especially meats that may have gone beyond their shelf life, and any number of other things that needed a kick into a new world of fire, brimstone and/or outrageously great flavour. I have close to 20 spices in labelled jars on a Lazy Susan in the cupboard adjacent to my stove. Because they are readily accessible, I use them often. Not necessarily in set recipes, but because each is able, in some magical way, to enhance what I’m doing. I’ve bought some of the spices from technicoloured street vendors in foreign lands; I generously grind nutmeg from a necklace of “nuts” from Grenada, and have mortared and pestled my way to some of the best curry mixes this side of Uttar Pradesh. Saffron? It’s the taste of the earth, and I love it! Spices are affordable, non-fattening, non-harmful, good-for-you critters that deserve more ‘ink’ in our cooking ways. And spicy food isn’t always about red-hot heat and Saturday-afternoon pelvic-region agony. It is simply a guaranteed adventure into realms of great, always-exciting taste.
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salsa raja It may be a bit down-market, but as some do with ketchup, I often include a salsa to brighten up just about any main course. This has been in my collection for years. Origin unknown.
1 1 4 1 1 ½ ½
small onion, chopped clove garlic, chopped green chilies can tomato sauce tbsp chili powder tbsp cumin tbsp oregano
1. Sauté onion and garlic until
onions become transparent. Blend onion, garlic and green chilies and return to saucepan. 2. Add tomato sauce and spices and simmer about 10 minutes. To one can water or chicken stock add 1 tablespoon cornstarch. 3. Add to sauce and simmer a few minutes longer. Serve over chilies.
42 // October 2013
chocolate spice bread
My summer reading included David Lebovitz’s lovely The Sweet Life in Paris (Broadway Paperbacks), a city he knows well, and has savoured in many of its “glorious and perplexing” corners. His pain d’épices is a “honey-rich spice bread,” that is “dense and packed with flavour.” David says he serves wedges by themselves, with dark coffee, or with slices of fresh or poached pears.
7 tbsp unsalted butter, cut into pieces 200 g bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped 1 ¼ cups flour
3 tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder 1 tsp baking powder ¾ tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground ginger ½ tsp ground cloves ¼ tsp salt ½ tsp whole anise seeds
1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. 2. Butter a 9-inch round cake pan, line
2 large eggs at room temperature 2 large egg yolks ¼ cup honey ⅔ cup sugar
chocolate and butter, then fold in the remaining egg mixture. the bottom with parchment paper, and 7. Add the dry ingredients one third at a butter that as well. Dust the insides of the time, using a spoon to sprinkle them over pan with flour or cocoa powder and tap the batter and folding until the dry out any excess. ingredients are just combined. 3. In a double boiler or a large, heat8. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan proof bowl set over a pan of simmering and bake 30 to 35 minutes, until the cake water, melt the chocolate and butter feels barely set in the centre, but still moist. together, stirring until smooth. Let cool to 9. Remove from the oven and let cool for room temperature. 15 minutes. Tap the cake out of the pan 4. In another bowl, sift the flour, cocoa, and cool completely on a rack. baking powder, cinnamon, ginger, cloves 10. Wrap the cake in plastic and let stand and salt. Add the anise seeds. at room temperature for 24 hours to let the flavours meld. 5. In the bowl of a standing electric …… David says that if well wrapped, the mixer or with a handheld mixer, whip cake will keep for about a week at room the eggs, yolks, honey, and sugar until thick and mousse-like — about 5 minutes temperature, or a month in the freezer. Check out his great Paris-based blog, on high speed. 6. Fold half of the whipped eggs into the www.davidlebovitz.com
your own curry
armenian nutmeg cake
I snaffled this from a friend in Sydney. It tasted great at a late afternoon party in a house overlooking one of the northern beaches.
There are some of us who avoid store-bought curry powder. I am one of them. I don’t like the taste of fenugreek or curry plant, so this mix is my answer, and possibly yours, to a great curry taste.
1. For this recipe you may have to visit a spice store. Then mix 2
parts each coriander, cumin, cardamom, ginger, garlic powder and onion powder. Add 1 part cayenne or chili powder, and “monsoon balti” or masala, both available at South Asian stores. This is the part that you can make hotter to your taste. 2. I use this mix in “curried rice,” which really is cooked fried rice, mixed up with bacon, ham, or leftover chicken, maybe a handful of shrimp, and some Asian-accented vegetables stir-fried on the side. Easy and quick.
125 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
g butter cups self-raising flour cups brown sugar tsp baking soda cup milk egg tsp nutmeg tsp ground cloves tsp ground ginger cup walnuts, chopped
1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. 2. Grease and line a 9-inch round
springform pan. Rub butter into the flour until mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Stir in brown sugar. Mix well. 3. Press half the mixture into prepared pan. Dissolve the baking soda in the milk. 4. Pour into remaining crumb mixture with egg, spices and walnuts. Pour on top of crumb mixture. 5. Bake for 50 minutes or until cooked. Stand 10 minutes before turning out. •
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F. Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby harkens back to a time when the sky was the limit and the livin’ was easy. It was just after WWI
by merle rosenstein
and the economy blossomed, putting new material goods firmly within reach. Breaking with convention, women sported bobs, ventured out alone and dared to don silk stockings and slim-fitting swimsuits. Jazz captivated the nation and the Charleston, One Step and Black Bottom had couples swinging and swaying to a different beat. Fitzgerald captured the glitz, glitter and glam of the Jazz Age in his story of the wealthy Jay Gatsby and his lover Daisy Buchanan. In the May 2013 film release, Director Baz Luhrmann recreates the overthe-top opulence and extreme overindulgence of Gatsby onscreen. Leo DiCaprio is resplendent in the role of Jay Gatsby and Carrie Mulligan is delicious as Daisy. The Great Gatsby is set during prohibition in the early 1920s, when the production, sale and consumption of alcohol were outlawed. Despite being illegal, alcohol flows freely. Gatsby gets rich through gambling and bootlegging. In the movie, Gatsby goes to a barbershop with a hidden entrance to a speakeasy. Speakeasies were secret spots to knock back hooch, frequented by flappers and their fellas. Mentioned in the movie are the Mint Julep, the official drink of the Kentucky Derby, and the Gin Rickey, thought to have been a favourite of Fitzgerald’s. Relive the Roaring ‘20s at jumpin’ juice joints in cities across Canada, where bartenders concoct classic 1920s cocktails. Channel your inner Al Capone or Mary Pickford, if only for an evening. And don’t take any wooden nickels. All of the cool cats will be there dolled up in glad rags, ordering tall glasses of giggle water.
Speak
easy 44 // October 2013
cube tasting lounge: calgary nouveau speakeasy
Franz Swinton, bartender at Anejo Restaurant and bar manager at soon-to-open Cube Tasting Lounge in Calgary, represented Canada recently at the Bombay Sapphire World’s Most Imaginative Bartender competition in Florence. The Calgary bartender has noticed an interest in 1920s-era cocktails as a result of the May release of The Great Gatsby. “It has been trending at a few different places. People have been doing some Gatsby parties.” As Swinton explains, “It’s this allusion to an old time. It’s like clothing styles that come back. That’s the way drinking is.” Swinton loves making classic cocktails because “Classics don’t go out of style.” Of the quality of the ingredients, he notes, “A lot of the recipes have some extravagance to them. You are seeing ingredients that are being brought from France, the top ingredients, as well as some American Whiskeys coming forward. You see things like the Champagne Cocktail from this era and this shows this prestige.” The Cube Tasting Lounge will have 45 seats and a very nouveau speakeasy-style feel. According to Swinton, “It will have some of that throwback to the speakeasies, something that is a little bit exclusive — a little bit selective — but at the same time have new touches and modern flair in the mixology and some of the accents in the room.” The Lounge will be attached to a restaurant called Brix and Morsel located upstairs. Swinton says that there will be a small bit of signage. “You’ll know about it but you won’t necessarily know about it. It won’t be completely secretive. It will be social media guerrilla-style marketing — a small bit of signage for the lounge itself. It will be tied into the main signage for the restaurant.” When asked why the lounge would not remain hidden, Swinton explains, “Right now we are trying to get people excited about cocktails and maybe get them off rye and coke and Budweiser.” With classics like the Mary Pickford, the Bronx, and the Bronx Bomber, getting patrons to give up Budweiser should be a snap.
mary pickford
2 oz white rum 1 1/2 oz pineapple juice (pressed is best) 1/4 oz grenadine (real pomegranate) Bar spoon (1/8 oz) maraschino Shake and fine strain into chilled cocktail glass, garnish with maraschino cherry.
bronx 2
oz gin oz dry vermouth oz sweet vermouth 1 oz orange juice Shake and fine strain into chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with orange twist.
1/2 1/3
+ Search for more cocktail recipes at quench.me/search-mixed/
bronx bomber 1 1/3 oz gin 1/2 oz genever 1/2 oz sweet vermouth 1/2 oz Lillet Blanc 1 oz clarified orange juice Stir over ice. Strain into chilled cocktail glass. Add a flamed orange twist.
toronto temperance society: for members only — Really
Three years ago, Sidecar Bar and Grill owners Bill Sweete and Casey Bee and cocktail writer Christine Sismondo came up with the idea for a speakeasy in Toronto. The Toronto Temperance Society is a membership bar along the lines of Milk and Honey in New York with no signage and a hidden entrance. Patrons enter the club through Sidecar Bar and Grill. Bar Manager Oliver Stern describes the allure of the Toronto Temperance Society as, “Going to a place that is off of the beaten path and you can walk in and be in a different environment. You walk up the stairs on a Saturday night, it’s crazy out on the street and you can come upstairs and it’s comfortable and there’s live jazz playing.” Toronto Temperance Society members have plenty of room to relax and enjoy quality cocktails. As Stern says, “If you are having a seat at the bar, there’s never going to be someone behind you pushing up against the bar trying to order a drink. This is a place where you can come and be comfortable.” Stern, one of the regional winners of the 2013 Grey Goose Pour Masters Cocktail Competition, travelled to New Orleans to attend Tales of the Cocktail in July. “As far as cocktails go, in the early 1900s, that was an era when bartending was becoming a real job and making these cocktails was a profession,” he says of prohibition-era bartending. “All of the drinks we are making now except for molecular gastronomy stuff were based on that foundation.” As Stern explains, the Toronto Temperance Society strives to carry on that legacy: “Certainly the cocktails from back then and what the bartender was is what we are trying to maintain here.” Stern’s goal is to “make the cocktail that the customer wants.” At the Toronto Temperance Society you can try a classic cocktail such as the French 75, the Boulevardier or the El Presidente.
french 75 1 1/2 oz gin 3/4 oz lemon juice 3/4 oz simple syrup 1:1
Shake and strain into a flute. Top with 3 oz Dry Sparkling wine. Garnish with lemon zest.
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boulevardier 1 1/2 oz bourbon 1 oz Campari 1 oz sweet vermouth Stir strain into coupe or rocks with a large rock. Garnish with orange zest.
el presidente 1 1/2 oz aged rum 3/4 oz dry vermouth 1/4 oz Cointreau Small bar spoon of grenadine Dash orange bitters Stir strain into coupe. Garnish with orange zest.
noble: password-access bar in halifax
You’ll need to check Facebook to get into Noble, a new underground speak-style bar on Barrington Street in Halifax. A fresh password posted each Thursday afternoon allows access to the unadvertised bar underneath a desserterie called Middle Spoon. As Jenner Cormier, bartender at Middle Spoon and Noble explains, “You actually have to travel through the kitchen down a series of hallways to get to this other bar that’s called Noble. It’s built in an abandoned boiler room in a building that dates back to the ‘50s, but we’ve got the same sort of theme as a 1920s speak, very dark, very intimate.” All ice is hand-chipped and there is no refrigerator. Everything is on ice to mimic the speakeasy style. A record player and 1910 grandstand piano complete the picture.
46 // October 2013
On June 10, 2013 in Toronto, Cormier was named Canada’s first-ever World Class Bartender of the Year, and represented Canada in July, competing against 50 elite bartenders from around the world in the Diageo World Class Global Final. It was just over two years ago when Cormier travelled to Toronto to take an ABCs of bartending course where he learned “how to shake, how to strain, what vermouth is, how to make a martini.” Cormier had this to say about classic cocktails: “If you dig a little deeper into 1920s cocktails they were trying to mask some pretty terrible spirits. You end up with cocktails like an Orange Blossom, which is equal parts orange juice and gin just to cut that gin [...] Or an Alexander, which is equal parts heavy cream and gin and a little bit of chocolate liqueur.” Noble has a cocktail on its menu called the Gatsby, a subtle twist on an Aviation that they released a few months ago in anticipation of the movie. According to Cormier, “A lot of cocktails are built off of the framework that a lot of the speakeasy cocktails were built upon. If you take an Old Fashioned, that’s your quintessential framework for a cocktail. You’ve got spirit, bitter, sugar and water. If you tweak a couple of things with an Old Fashioned you end up with a Sazarac. Or, change the way it’s served and you’ve got a Manhattan.” A few classic cocktails recommended by Cormier are the Diabola, the Hanky Panky and the New 1920s Cocktail.
diabola 2/3 parts Dubonnet 1/3 parts gin 2 dashes Orgeat syrup Shake well and strain into a chilled coupe glass.
hanky panky 2
dashes Fernet Branca part Italian vermouth part dry gin Shake well and strain into chilled Nick and Nora cocktail glass. Garnish with zest of orange expressed on top of drink and discarded.
1/2 1/2
new 1920 cocktail 1
dash orange bitters 1/4 part French vermouth 1/4 part Italian vermouth 1/2 part Canadian whisky Shake well and strain into chilled coupe glass. Garnish with lemon zest expressed over the drink, then dropped into the cocktail. •
thanks for the wine\\
Since the 1600s, the date and reason we celebrate Thanksgiving changed every year until 1957. Since then, it’s been all about recognizing the bounty of the harvest on the second Monday of October. Canadian wine ought to be celebrated, too. Every year, the vines winemakers work so hard to cultivate somehow survive our often forbidding climate to reward us with bunches of ripe grapes waiting to be harvested and turned into the drink of the gods. We wanted to take that appreciation a bit further. This year, we’re giving you our pick of the top five Canadian wines that will pair perfectly with Thanksgiving dinner. Go ahead, have a great Canadian Bacchanalian feast. From coast to coast, we have a lively wine culture and great wine. Visit some wineries for more tasty Canadian gems and start your own top five list.
Angels Gate Gewürztraminer 2011, Beamsville, Ontario ($14) Such an aromatic wine, this Gewürz perfumes the air with classic aromas of lychee, apricot and sweet fruit. Flavours of citrus, lychee again, pear, tropical fruit and some spice wash over the palate. This wine will bring out the flavour of roast turkey, sweet potatoes and all the other traditional Thanksgiving fixings.
Mission Hill Five Vineyards Chardonnay 2010, Okanagan Valley, BC ($14.99)
Fermented and aged in stainless steel and neutral oak barrels, this Chardonnay releases aromas of bright citrus, green apple and some subtle spice. That citrus comes through on the palate as well, along with a hint of minerals and stone fruit.
Fort Berens Riesling 2012, Lilloouet, BC ($17.99)
Lillooet is one of British Columbia’s emerging wine regions. Fort Berens offers a nice variety of wines to try. This Riesling exudes aromas of peach, lime and flint. On the palate, you’ll find lots of citrus and kiwi with a refreshing finish of tart apple.
must try
by Rosemary Mantini
Benjamin Bridge Rosé 2008, Wolfville, Nova Scotia ($44.79)
Ahh, a sparkling rosé — now you have my attention. Sparkling wine goes well with anything, really, especially a Thanksgiving dinner. This wine is a blend of 50% Marechal Foch, 20% Pinot Noir, 20% L’Acadie, 8% Vidal, and 2% Seyval. Pale ruby in colour, it smells and tastes like summer — the aroma of strawberries and cherries fills the nose. Not only will it pair wonderfully with the various components of the Thanksgiving meal, the presence of bubbles will automatically make the whole event feel even more special.
Carone Vineyard Venice Pinot Noir 2010, Lanaudière, Quebec ($36)
Deep purple colour, this Pinot exudes the aromas of the forest. It will lead you to believe that you’re actually out in the turkey’s natural habitat tracking your dinner. Don’t worry, though, the taste of dried cherry fruit washing over your tongue will bring you back just in time for dinner. •
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by tod stewart
siz zli ng 48 // October 2013
It’s a given that olive oil — particularly the top-quality extra virgin variety (a.k.a. EVOO) — is both good on the palate and good for the body. Rich in polyphenols and other antioxidants, EVOO has not only been shown to reduce low-density lipoprotein (LDL) cholesterol, making it very heart-friendly, but it has also been seen to have a positive impact on everything from osteoporosis to cancer. The consensus, however, begins to fray somewhat when the topic of cooking with olive oil (and here we’re talking about actually heating the stuff up for poaching, frying, etc., and not “finishing” a dish with a drizzle or two) arises. Even veteran gastronomes will often caution about the apparent dangers in heating olive oil, that it becomes toxic, causes cancer, and so on, concluding that olive oil — even the best stuff — is simply not a suitable cooking medium. Many disagree. And science appears to side with them. “My experience is that this is completely untrue,” contests Matt Kantor, chef and co-owner of Bero, a newish Spanish eatery in Toronto’s east end. Kantor notes that much of the misconceptions around heating olive oil probably have to do with the fallacy that olive oil has a low “smoking point” or “breaks down” at a relatively low temperature. When a fat or oil is heated to the point of smoking it begins to collapse into free fatty acids and glycerol. Its flavour is compromised, and its nutritional aspects are diminished. Every fat or oil will eventually smoke if heated beyond a certain point. To properly fry food, oil has to be heated to about 163˚C. Anunciación Carpio, biologist and fats expert at the Fats Institute in Seville, advises the smoking point for EVOO is 180˚C, well within the range for frying. So if it’s safe to do so, what’s the issue with frying with EVOO? “It’s primarily a cost consideration,” admits Kantor, acknowledging that even the Spanish Almaoliva EVOO (especially suited for commercial kitchens) that he uses for fairly high volume applications
is still relatively expensive. Couple this with the fact that he rarely reuses olive oil he has cooked with (“except for dishes like tortilla which are cooked at a pretty low temperature, and even then I won’t reuse it more than twice”), and you start to understand the financial implications. “This is Toronto, not Spain,” Kantor laments. However, the financial implications may be less than even he imagines.
“The evidence suggests high quality EVOO resists heat-based cooking techniques much better than seed oils,” reports Dolores Smith of Olivar Corp, purveyor of top-flight Spanish EVOOs to fine dining establishments and specialty retailers. “In fact, in a study done fairly recently by a Food Sciences university faculty at UPV in northern Spain, unsuitable levels of degraded components were reached when frying potatoes at 180˚C after the sunflower oil had been reused 17 times. It took 44 reuses before the same levels were detected with the olive oil. In taste tests, untrained tasters also identify off flavours considerably earlier in the potatoes fried in sunflower oil.” So although EVOO is more expensive than sunflower oil, you could, theoretically, use it over two-and-a-half times longer than the seed oil. And it would taste superior and be healthier. Smith also emphasizes that the better the quality of the olive oil, the better it will take to heating, and even possible overheating. “The higher quality the oil, the less it will have been broken down during the extraction process and the more resistant it will be to [degeneration] due to high heat.” The decision to use olive oil — and what grade of it — in the cooking process really depends on the role you want it to play … supporting or starring. “When we make our sofrito and base sauces, we use a medium intense olive oil that will not change the flavours of what we are cooking, but rather enhance and add body,” reveals Stuart Cameron, Executive Chef at Patria, a downtown Toronto, Barcelona-inspired resto lounge that opened early this year to great (and continuing) accolades. “When we sauté and panfry seafood and meats in a mild tasting Spanish olive oil, we find that the product never becomes greasy or oily, rather, [the oil] gives [the dish] richness and subtle flavour.” Cameron says that he prefers to use the more intense, top-end Spanish EVOOs to finish a dish. “Whether it is as simple as a drizzle on top of seafood or salad, or a large drizzle on top of chocolate.” “A great recipe to showcase the use of Spanish olive oil is the Salmorejo Cordobés,” Cameron contends. “It’s a Spanish chilled tomato bread soup with boiled egg and jamón ibérico. What makes it great is the use of two different olive oils that play different parts in the dish; a lighter oil for the base of the soup, as not to take away from the tomatoes, and a deeper intense flavoured olive oil with richer, grassy flavours, as a finishing oil.” •
salmorejo cordobés
1 kg vine tomatoes 1 garlic clove 250 g sourdough bread, torn 100 ml mild-tasting EVOO (such as Oro San Carlos) 1 g salt 300 ml tomato water 15 g aged sherry vinegar 1 egg Chopped jamón ibérico
1. Blend tomatoes and garlic; strain. Add to bread
and let soak for 1 hour. Mash tomato into the bread.
2. Return to blender and thin out with tomato
water. Add olive oil, season with sherry vinegar, salt and pepper. Consistency should be similar to thick cream. 3. Boil egg for 8 minutes. Grate the egg (white and yolk separately). 4. Sprinkle each serving with chopped egg and jamón ibérico. Drizzle with Spanish extra virgin olive oil and migas (essentially, prepared Spanish breadcrumbs). …… Try with a Spanish rosado.
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the mav notes\\ 93 2027 Cellars Queenston Road Pinot Noir 2011, Niagara ($35)
Made with wild fermentation; no fining agents or filtration and finished in Tonnellerie Sirugue French oak, 20% of it new. The nose is much deeper and earthier than previous vintages, but still the ripe cherry and raspberry rise to the top with beetroot and oak spices mingling in the background. The wine does a turnaround on the palate, guided by a wall of fine oak tannin and earth, dirt, loam and Pinot funk that slowly reveals the fleshy beetroot, the sour cherry, the anise and darker fruits. It’s altogether a more masculine expression of this fascinating grape that starts with a wink and a promise but delivers a subtext of complexity that will make you work for the pleasure within this intellectual offering. (RV)
92 Little Farm Riesling ‘Mulberry Tree Vineyard’ 2011, Similkameen Valley, BC ($30)
93 Bachelder Wismer Vineyard Winfield Block Chardonnay 2011, Niagara ($45) The Wismer Chard from Bachelder was a blockbuster in 2010, and the 2011 isn’t far off from that. It’s quite tight at the moment but still reveals poached pear, spice, nougat, hazelnut, toast and flinty minerality with just a pinch of citrus zest in the background. It’s complex and juicy yet maintains a graceful and finessed feel in the mouth while exposing an array of fruit, spice and minerality. Just wait for this to open up a bit more. Gorgeous. (RV)
Great intensity, power and focus with mouth-watering zesty acidity, loads of lime, apple and mineral with great complexity, and a steely backbone. Racy and zippy with a long, drier, wet-stone mineral finish. Killer effort. Only 34 cases produced. If you manage to find some bottles, throw a few in the cellar, because this is going to age beautifully. (GB)
88 Emiliana Adobe Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Casablanca Valley, Chile ($14)
A very nice Sauvignon Blanc made from organically grown fruit that shows lime, grapefruit, fresh herbs, some grassy notes and a touch of tropical fruit on the nose. This is fresh and balanced on the palate with lovely grapefruit-lime notes and just a hint of herbs and grass. (RV)
91 Lamblin et Fils Chablis Premier Cru “Fourchaumes” 2008, France ($25.83)
Medium-deep lemon yellow. Aroma is lemon-lime, a little orange as well, but nose is still relatively closed; needs to open up in the glass. On the palate there are more lemon and green apple flavours, as well as a slight mineral astringency that increases interest. Will drink well for several more years. (RL)*
92 Marchesi di Barolo Sarmassa 2008, Piedmont, Italy ($63)
While visiting the winery this past summer, I had the opportunity to taste a vertical of their Barolos, going back to the ’60s. All were in impeccable condition, a testament to the quality and longevity produced here. Sweet cherry, raspberry, earth, plum, rose and tar are all in play. Nebbiolo’s tannins and acidity make a strong appearance on the long finale. Hold for a couple more years and then drink until 2028. (ES)
50 // October 2013
89 Audrey Wilkinson Shiraz 2008, McLaren Vale, South Australia ($24.99) This Shiraz from McLaren Vale is a one-off. The subsequent vintage will be from the Hunter Valley. It shows refined red berry fruit with suggestions of mint, clove and pencil-box oakiness. Flavours on the palate shift towards rich blackberry, dark chocolate and dry tannins. Can use a bit more cellaring. (SW)
sake for a change\\
I am asked every autumn, “What should I serve with our Thanksgiving turkey dinner?” And it is always the usual, same old wine choices. So when an American friend of mine told me she now serves sake, I thought why not? So I tried it and it works. Barry Chaim, founder and CEO with the EDO Group in Toronto, is a serious sake maven, and carries most of the brands available. Recently he was kind enough to treat me to a one-woman sake master class (with some lovely sashimi and sushi) that’s left me stimulated and intrigued! Sake is an ancient drink which originated in Japan. The earliest reference to it was written in 712 AD. It’s made from fermented rice with a brewing process similar to beer. The big difference is that in sake-making, it’s a two-step procedure. The starch in the rice grains must be converted into sugar before the sugar can be fermented into the alcohol. The quality and character of a particular sake is determined by a holy trinity: rice, water and yeast. Sake rice is not the same grain as that served at Japanese tables. There are 80 different strains. Each producer has its own proprietary yeast strains, specifically selected for their brewing properties. Wild yeasts are used as well. The minerality in the water used also plays a big part in the character of the drink. There are formal quality classifications for sake. Hon Jozo is basic sake made with polished rice and best served warm (not hot). Junmai (“pure”) contains only rice, water, yeast and koki-kin (enzymes). Ginjo, premium sake, is made with rice milled down to no more than 65% of its original size. Dai-Ginjo, ultra-premium sake, ferments rice brewed down to less than 55% of its original size. (Nigori is a side category, a roughly filtered variety that is served cloudy. It’s sweeter than most sake and more viscous.) So, kanpai (which means cheers, not bottoms up). By the way, sake is usually sipped from small cups. Or you can always make cocktails.
Matter of taste
by Sheila Swerling-Puritt
Junmai
Ontario Spring Water Sake Company Izumi Nama-Cho, Canada ($12.95/300 ml)
Full-bodied, bold, once pasteurized; has a residual sweetness with hints of melon and pear and good acidity to balance it out.
Junmai Ginjo
Dragon Slayer Wakatake Onikoroshi, Japan ($12.95/300 ml)
Light, smooth, rich with a medium-dry finish. Suggest you try it for yourself at a quality Japanese restaurant.
Sho Chiku Bai Nigori Crème, United States ($7.50/300 ml)
Smooth and rich in flavour, it was coarsely filtered, which gives it a creamy colour. There is absolutely no dairy added. Great with chocolate desserts.
Junmai Dai-Ginjo
Tamanohikari, Japan ($17.70/300 ml)
This super premium sake is one of the most popular sake brands in Asia. It has melon notes with a complex semi-dry finish. •
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davine
no ... music\\ It’s becoming an annual thing, and I love doing it. Bringing together two of my passions ... wine and music. Years ago, I wrote a column pairing independent wines with independent music artists. It was so well received that record company Six Shooter Records asked me to pair wines with bands at a new music festival they were planning for Edmonton. At the inaugural Interstellar Rodeo last year, I put the pairings into practice. It seemed natural to draw parallels between the passion and creativity of both winemakers and artists. It was an overwhelmingly sensory experience, so we’re doing it every year. Ultimately the wine pairings are meant to add another dimension to the festival experience, stimulating all your senses ... sight, sound, touch and taste. Life is too short to listen to shitty music. Life is also too short to drink shitty wine. I’m happy to continue to bring both wine and music together.
by gurvinder Bhatia
Mike Plume
Cave Spring Gamay 2011, Niagara, Ontario ($21.99)
Expat Mike Plume may be living in Nashville, but his uplifting, undeniably Canadian lyrics make us proud to claim him as one of our own. Niagara-based Cave Spring is also distinctly Canadian; their wines make you feel good about wanting to show them off to the world. The wine’s juicy red cherry-fruit, silky tannins and spicy finish make you want to cheer go, Gamay, go! Both songwriter and winery have experienced success beyond our borders, but the fruits of their labour make it clear that home is where the heart is, and their hearts are, without question, north of the 49th parallel. Maybe nice guys can finish first. www.mikeplume.com
Kurt Vile Alabama Shakes
De Angelis Rosso Piceno 2012, Marche, Italy ($16.99)
Vibrant and soulful with a bit of a raw edge, but undeniably amazing is the best way to describe both the band and wine. Relatively new on the scene, but hardly green, this southern roots-rock sensation, led by the powerful pipes of Brittany Howard, is tearin’ it up and making everyone rise up and testify. The delicious, smoky, meaty, juicy Rosso Piceno from Italy’s “upstart” Le Marche region is also making people jump to attention. Those who are calling Alabama Shakes and wines from Le Marche the next big things are a little late to the party. Both are already here. “Hold On” and be prepared to be blown away. www.alabamashakes.com
52 // October 2013
Santa Maria la Palma ‘Le Bombarde’ Cannonau 2011, Sardinia, Italy ($17.99)
The mellow, psychedelic vocal intonations of Kurt Vile bring to mind the urban lyricism of a young Tom Petty or Bob Dylan. Mind-altering and intoxicating, the Cannonau’s multi-dimensional and penetrating spice and leather flavours are so good compared to its modest price, it will put you out of your mind. “One sip makes you larger and one sip makes you small” ... careful, you’ve just been invited to the Mad Hatter’s tea party, and there’s no way out of the rabbit hole. www.kurtvile.com
CR Avery
Don Rodolfo Tannat 2012, Mendoza, Argentina ($16.99)
There’s no easy way to describe the raw, genre-crossing sounds of CR Avery. Country, roots, folk, rock, punk, urban beatbox and
spoken word are all encompassed in some form in this versatile artist’s creative and insightful music and lyrics. Similarly, the dark and edgy Tannat possesses old-world depth and complexity and new-world juiciness and approachability — defying traditional labels. They both lure you in with their intensity, but instead of trying to define their respective styles, just have a listen and a taste, relax, kick back and go with it. You’ll be glad you did. www.cravery.com
tracks and draw you into a place of introspection wondering how they can be so good. Deep and dark combined with a little angst and heartache. Grab a glass, hold your partner tight. www.thedeepdarkwoods.com
Steve Earle and the Dukes Fabiano Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2010, Veneto, Italy ($17.99)
Steve Earle and Nicola Fabiano are living legends in their respective fields. Both ran away from home as youths to follow their passions, and the longevity of their careers is a testament to their talents, tenacity, unwillingness to compromise and individuality. Earle and Fabiano are often referred to as rebels, but artistic geniuses are seldom conformists. Earle’s intelligent, honest and perceptive storytelling takes on another dimension when combined with his country-roots-rocking sounds. Fabiano’s wines are real, conveying the story of the land through the honesty of what’s in the bottle. www.steveearle.com
The Skydiggers
Jean-Paul Brun Côte de Brouilly 2011, Beaujolais, France ($29.99) The Skydiggers and JP Brun are making music and wines that stand the test of time. For almost a quarter-century, the band has been creating songs so familiar, they’ve become comforting standards on all our playlists. Elegant, soft and silky, Beaujolais (no, not Nouveau) has been around seemingly forever, but its quality (particularly the quality of the crus like Côte de Brouilly) today may be better than it’s ever been. Fresh, pure and unmarked by intervention, the wine and music couldn’t be more down to earth. An obvious choice for those seeking sincerity, honesty and quality. www.skydiggers.com
The Deep Dark Woods
Andre Aubert Grignan-les-Adhemar ‘Le Devoy’ 2011, Rhône, France ($16.99)
Listening to the entrancing, beautifully lonely, theatrical sounds of The Deep Dark Woods, I can’t help but be taken back to past times as they seemingly pay homage to the late greats that came before them. Le Devoy offers depth, intrigue, loads of character and incredible value in this classic blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan from the historic Rhône Valley. Substantial without being intimidating, the music and wine both stop you in your
Good Lovelies
Bougrier Vouvray 2011, Loire Valley, France ($18.99)
I can’t think of a more appropriate name for this lighthearted, spirit-lifting trio ... they are, in fact, both good and lovely. A throwback to the boogie-woogie era, their music makes it impossible not to tap your feet and smile. And what kind of vintage wine party would it be without Vouvray? Bright and fresh with a hint of sweetness, the wine can best be described as sunshine in a glass. Which begs the question, do people still boogie-woogie and drink Vouvray? If it’s to the Good Lovelies with a glass of Bougrier in your hand, you better believe they do. www.goodlovelies.com •
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//the food notes 88 DeAngelis Prato Grande Chardonnay 2012, Marche IGT, Italy ($22) Delicately fragrant nose, highlighted by chamomile and tropical fruit. This well-balanced, unoaked Chard showcases firm acidity bolstering melon flavours and a round mouthfeel. Appetizing passion fruit finish. The “big meadow” (prato grande) surrounding the vineyard conjures up al fresco dining. (HH)
91 Hidden Bench Estate Pinot Noir 2010, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula ($38) Elegant and focused with lovely cherry and blackberry, a touch of wet earth and dark chocolate; fine, silky tannins and a touch of grippiness on the well-balanced, lifted finish. Really a nice wine that makes me want some rabbit in a pot. (GB)
93 Tantalus Old Vines Riesling 2010, Okanagan ($30) Effusive green apple and lime aromas, flecked by beguiling petrol notes. Tropical fruit and ripe peach flavours grip the scintillating palate. The soaring acidity and livewire texture induce salivation, while the persistent wet slate taste finishes dry. An iconic representation of a benchmark Okanagan style. Impressive on its own; inspiring with West Coast seafood. (HH)
89 KWV Cathedral Cellar Shiraz 2009, Western Cape, South Africa ($15.95)
Here is another terrific Cathedral Cellar offering, featuring lots of sweet fruit both on the nose and palate: raspberry, plum and cherry meld with earth, pepper, leather and cocoa. The finish is long. Drink over the next 3 years with a peppercorn NY strip. (ES)
92 Bouza Albariño 2012, Canelones and Montevideo, Uruguay ($25)
Bold aromatics grab your attention with ripe peach, spicy tangerine and white flowers. The lees-enriched palate delivers honey notes up-front, bright peach on the mid-palate, and a dry, clean, citrus-zest finish. The 15% French oak barrel fermentation brings out wellbalanced complexity. Begs for seafood. (HH)
88 Château Bois du Fil 2011, Médoc, Bordeaux, France ($18)
Purplish. Inviting nose of red fruits, a mild touch of oak. Only medium body, typical of the vintage. There is a nice fruity attack: the middle palate is a bit firmer as the tannins show a little grip leading into the finish with notes of fruit stones. Ready to drink on sandwiches or hamburgers. (GBQc)
90 Château du Grand Caumont Impatience 2010, Corbières, Languedoc, France ($18.75)
Dark ruby. Complex and ripe nose of blackberry and other black fruits, dark plum, toasted oak. Full-bodied, thick, grainy backbone wrapped in velvety ripe fruit extract. Soft finish. Ready to drink with a tasty meat stew. (GBQc)
54 // October 2013
life of pie\\
My education at George Brown College in Toronto was not really the beginning of my culinary adventures. By the time I attended my first class, I had been a home cook for more than 20 years. Still, I was eager to discard bad habits and soak up the new. Truth be told, in the early years, I went kicking and screaming into the culinary world. You could say I did not go gentle into that good kitchen. As a teen, I had no interest in learning to cook or bake, and frankly my mother had no interest in teaching me. She believed too many cooks spoiled the broth, and I happily agreed by running blithely out the front door the moment she tied on her apron. Oh sure, I made pasta with garlic and the occasional chocolate chip cookie, but only because I was hungry. After my first marriage, I waited patiently each night for my mom to come over to cook dinner, poised in this holding pattern for two years. Then I began to wonder out loud if my husband could do anything in the kitchen, but his only tricks were frying perfectly-straight bacon and stocking the fridge with beer. I realized that if we were ever going to eat again, I would have to learn to cook. Being the artsy sort, I decided to make cooking my creative outlet. If I had to cook every day, I was going to make it matter. My first attempts were abysmal, but over the years, cooking became the easiest of art forms. Twenty years later, I decided to learn how to really cook and spent four and a half years at George Brown learning the ropes. I have never lost my passion for turning out a beautiful, tasty product from my kitchen — my lab — although believe me, from time to time, I still create a clunker that nobody wants to eat. But happily, those moments are few and far between. When I am in my kitchen — chopping, sautéing, stirring, whipping — I feel everything is right with the world. Following are some of the recipes that get me there.
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bouquet garni
by nancy Johnson
coconut cream pie I don’t think of myself as a stellar baker, but I do my best, and my family likes what I make. I did learn to make pie crust at George Brown, but I prefer to use today’s excellent pie crusts available in the dairy or freezer case. To toast coconut, spread it out on a cookie sheet and bake about 10 minutes in a 350˚F oven until golden, stirring occasionally. For a boost of coconut flavour, substitute 1 1/2 cups unsweetened coconut milk for the milk. To make Banana Cream Pie, omit the coconut and layer sliced banana on the bottom of the baked pie crust. Pour cream filling over bananas and chill.
Single pie crust 1 cup sugar 1/2 cup flour 1/4 tsp salt 3 cups milk (or 1 1/2 cups milk and 1 1/2 cups unsweetened coconut milk) 4 eggs 3 tbsp butter, diced 1 1/2 tsp vanilla 1 cup flaked, sweetened coconut, toasted Whipped cream
1. Preheat oven to 450˚F. 2. Bake pie crust for 12 minutes or until golden. Cool com-
pletely on a rack. 3. In medium saucepan, combine sugar, flour and salt. Gradually stir in milk. Cook, whisking, until thickened and bubbly. Reduce heat. 4. Cook 2 minutes more, whisking constantly. Remove from heat and set aside.
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5. Separate eggs yolks from whites. Freeze egg whites for a
later use. Beat yolks lightly. Gradually stir in 1 cup of the hot sugar mixture. (This will keep the egg mixture from curdling.) Return egg/sugar mixture to saucepan and bring to a boil. 6. Cook, whisking, 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in butter, vanilla and coconut, stirring until butter melts. 7. Pour into baked pie shell. Chill at least 4 hours or overnight. 8. Slice and top with whipped cream and additional toasted coconut, if desired. …… Serve with a Niagara Vidal Ice Wine.
salmon glazed with bourbon and garlic serves 4
I love bourbon, and although I prefer a high-quality bourbon for sipping, I buy a less expensive variety for cooking.
4 3 2 1 1 2 4
tbsp bourbon tbsp brown sugar tbsp soy sauce tbsp grated fresh ginger tbsp fresh lemon juice minced garlic cloves salmon fillets
1. Combine bourbon, brown sugar, soy sauce, ginger, lemon
juice, garlic, and salt and pepper in a food-safe plastic bag. Add salmon and marinate in refrigerator 1 hour, turning occasionally. 2. Coat ridged grill pan with cooking spray. Heat on medium-high heat for 1 or 2 minutes. Add salmon and marinade to pan. 3. Cook 4 minutes on each side or until fish flakes easily with a fork. Serve with jasmine rice and steamed snap peas. …… Start the conversation with Bourbon Sours. Serve Chablis at the dinner table.
56 // October 2013
linguine with red clam sauce October is the month for clams, and nothing is more delicious than linguine with clams. I like linguine because it reminds me of the pasta my grandmother made from scratch, just a little bit thicker and chewier than spaghetti. San Marzano tomatoes deliver the best flavour and I chop them right in the can with scissors. You can use the reserved clam juice from the steamed clams or, if you want to be absolutely certain there is no sand in the juice, buy bottled clam juice.
6 lb clams, scrubbed 450 g linguine 6 cloves garlic, sliced 2 tbsp olive oil 1 can San Marzano tomatoes, drained and chopped 1/4 cup tomato paste Red pepper flakes, to taste 1 cup clam juice, strained through cheesecloth, or storebought clam juice 2 tbsp fresh minced basil
1. Steam clams in a large covered pot in 1 cup salted boiling
water for 10 minutes. Remove and discard any that have not opened. Remove meat and chop into large pieces. 2. Prepare linguine according to package directions. 3. In large skillet, sauté garlic over low heat in olive oil until softened. Watch carefully, as garlic burns easily. 4. Add tomatoes, tomato paste and red pepper flakes. Bring to a boil and simmer about 2 minutes. Stir in clam juice and simmer 2 minutes more. Season with salt. 5. Place linguine on large platter. Top with sauce, clams and basil. …… Serve with Chianti, preferably the old-style/nouveau Chianti in the straw-bottomed bottles.
autumn butternut soup This soup includes the unexpected ingredient of pears. Serve with grilled-turkey-and-cheese sandwiches for a warm and comforting October supper. If your supermarket sells pre-diced butternut squash, snap it up. It will make the process that much easier. If you have to cut the squash yourself, the safest way is to gently whack a mallet over the top of a chef’s knife until it slices through the squash. If you do not have an immersion blender, use a food processor to purée the soup in batches.
2 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, diced 1 small butternut squash, peeled, seeded and diced 2 Bosc pears, peeled and diced 4 cups chicken or vegetable broth Salt, pepper and nutmeg, to taste Sour cream and chives, for garnish
1. In a medium soup pot, heat oil over medium-high. Add
onion and cook until translucent. Add squash, pears and broth.
2. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Bring to a boil;
sesame tofu serves 4
Occasionally I serve a meatless meal, and tofu always makes me happy. It’s like a sponge, soaking up all the delightful flavours of the dish, especially if it is cut small enough. I have become a coupon queen and therefore, when coupons are available for frozen mixed vegetables, I grab them. Hence, they are used here with delicious results. Remember, flash-frozen veggies often retain more vitamins than fresh. For a change of pace, add curry seasonings and coconut milk rather than the teriyaki sauce.
1 package extra-firm tofu, drained and cut into 1/2–inch cubes 1/2 cup cornstarch 1/4 cup chopped peanuts 1 tbsp grated fresh ginger 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds 2 tbsp canola oil 1 large bag frozen mixed vegetables 2/3 cup teriyaki sauce 3 cups cooked brown rice 2 scallions, thinly sliced
1. In a medium bowl, coat tofu with cornstarch. 2. In a large separate bowl, combine peanuts and ginger. Add tofu and sesame seeds. Mix gently.
3. In a wok or large skillet, heat oil over high heat. Add
tofu mixture to skillet. Cook, stirring gently, until tofu is golden. Remove. 4. In the same skillet, add vegetables. Cook about 3 minutes until heated through. Add teriyaki sauce. Cook until bubbly. Gently stir in tofu mixture and heat through. Serve over brown rice sprinkled with scallions. …… Serve with a Gewürztraminer.
reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until squash is tender, about 25 minutes. 3. Using an immersion blender, purée soup. Serve in large shallow bowls, topped with sour cream and chives for garnish. …… Serve with a golden apple, pear and a Pinot Grigio from Italy.
pork carnitas tortillas serves 6 to 8
There are so many different ways to stuff a tortilla, but this is one of my favourites. Use the fattiest cut you can find for a tender outcome. I know “fatty” isn’t politically correct, but come on, it’s just one meal! I have an electric juicer that helps me to make short work of lemons, limes and oranges. If I’m not using the juice immediately, I freeze it, as well as the zest.
3 4 4 2
lb boneless pork butt, cut into 2-inch cubes sprigs thyme cloves garlic bay leaves 1/2 cup canola oil Juice of 2 limes Juice of 2 oranges 1 cup chicken broth Corn or flour tortillas, warmed Sour cream, guacamole, shredded cheddar, caramelized onions and diced tomatoes for topping
1. In a large Dutch oven, place the pork, thyme, garlic and bay
leaves. Add canola oil, lime and orange juice, broth and salt. 2. Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer, covered, 2 to 2 1/2 hours or until tender. 3. Remove pork from Dutch oven. Shred. Serve in tortillas with toppings. …… Pour a Mexican beer or a Sauvignon Blanc. •
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Tidings uses the 100-point scale 95-100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90-94. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85-89 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80-84. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75-79. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 & under. . . . . . . . . . .
exceptional excellent very good good acceptable below average
Our Scoring
System
* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . available through wine clubs green. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . white & rosé wines red. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . red wines
the commentaries in order to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board, or its website, for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler (ON), Sean Wood (NS, NB), Gilles Bois (QC), Evan Saviolidis (ON), Harry Hertscheg (BC), Gurvinder Bhatia (AB), Rick VanSickle (ON), Ron Liteplo (AB), Tod Stewart (ON) and Jonathan Smithe (MB). Argentina // p. 58; Australia // p. 58; Canada // p. 58-60; Chile // p. 60-61; France // p. 61-62; greece // p. 62;
Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category. Readers should open their palates to compare the relationship between quality and price. We’d also ask you to carefully study
Italy // p. 62-63; New Zealand // p. 63; Portugal // p. 63; South Africa // p. 63-64; Spain // p. 64;
the notes\\ /Argentina / 86 Salentein Portillo Chardonnay 2012, Valle de Uco, Mendoza ($13.99)
Fresh floral citrus and melon on the nose with juicy ripe citrus and stone fruit in the mouth. Crisp acidity, mineral and good overall balance round out the picture. (SW)
/Australia / 91 Audrey Wilkinson Chardonnay 2009, Hunter Valley, New South Wales ($24.99)
At their best, Hunter Valley
58 // October 2013
United States // p. 64-65; Uruguay // p. 65
wines display Old World–style finesse. This one reveals elegant lemon citrus, mineral and subtle buttery notes on the nose with Burgundian-like green-apple crispness and a trace of melon on the palate. Finishes with rounded nutty character and a subtle buttery sensation. Excellent quality and fine value. (SW)
86 McGuigan Black Label Shiraz 2012 ($11)
85 McGuigan Black Label Pinot Grigio 2012, Southeastern Australia ($10.99)
/Canada /
Gentle floral and green fruit on the nose with refreshingly light green apple and tropical fruit, crisp acidity and a dry, food-friendly finish. (SW)
Opens with blackcurrant, blackberry and lively green herbal scent with a pinch of clove. Blackcurrant and blackberry reemerge on the palate. Well balanced, with just a light splash of chocolate and dry tannic grip. (SW)
92 Five Rows Craft Wine Pinot Gris 2012, Niagara ($25)
Now this is something: a serious Gris that’s not afraid to let its freak flag fly. 70% of the fruit is barrel-fermented
and barrel-aged in old, neutral oak barrels for 6 months. The nose shows ripe McIntosh apple, melon, poached pear and spices that swirl around the edges yet never overpower the fruit. It has some weight and viscosity on the palate and some tannic structure, but it is the fruit, laden with apple and pear, that shines in the mouth with bits of spice and honey, all balanced out by a firm beam of acidity. (RV)
91 Tawse Echos Riesling 2010, Niagara Peninsula ($21.99) Beautifully focused with crunchy green apple, lime, citrus peel and a touch of
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\
petrol. Bright, mouth-watering acidity, great backbone and texture; slightly off-dry, but with great balance and a long finish. A bargain. (GB)
90 Tantalus Rosé 2012, Okanagan ($22)
This rose-hued Pinot blend of 80% Meunier and 20% Noir serves up complexity, minerality and a snap of tannin. Fragrant cinnamon and macerated red-berry aromas give way to red currant and pink grapefruit flavours en route to a crisp, appetizing finish. Prime consideration for the Thanksgiving table. (HH)
90 Orofino Riesling 2011, Similkameen Valley ($22.99)
A mouth-watering wine with firm acidity, lots of petrol, intense apple, citrus curd, salt and white peach, with a core of stony mineral. Sleek and elegant, but with a lot of power and backbone. (GB)
90 Tantalus Riesling 2012, Okanagan ($23)
This benchmark South East Kelowna Riesling experienced a stellar, warm vintage, yet its trademark mouth-watering acidity, vibrant palate and mineral finish ensure refreshment. Fuji apple, ripe pear, lime zest and spicy guava pervade from nose to finish. Its off-dry sweetness loves chili squid. (HH)
90 2027 Cellars Fox Croft Vineyard Riesling 2011, Niagara ($25)
The nose shows hints of sweet petrol already with ripe citrus, ginger-jasmine spice, key lime
pie and a subtle core of minerality. It’s a riper style, showing those fruity citrus notes with some peach and petrol/mineral/smoke action going on. A complex and provocative Riesling. (RV)
ness, while oak-kissed spiciness adds length. Awesome with ceviche. (HH)
90 Big Head Wines Chenin Blanc 2012, Niagara Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula ($25)
Nice complexity on the nose showing aromas and flavours of baked bread, apple pie, raspberry, strawberry and rhubarb with a pleasant edginess, lively full bubbles, and a long length. A blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. (GB)
This has a nice core of apple, melon, pineapple and pear flavours with a rich texture, hint of spice and racy, mineral finish lingering with a touch of tropical fruit. (GB)
90 Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate Grand Reserve White Meritage 2012, Niagara ($25)
This combination of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Sémillon has seen a light oak treatment. This has conjured up a complex mix of grapefruit, white peach, tomato vine, pineapple, passion fruit, vanilla and smoke on the nose. The palate adds nuances of pear, apple and spice. It is full-bodied, with bright acid and excellent length rounding out the experience. (ES)
90 Time Meritage 2012, Sundial Vineyard, Okanagan ($25) BC wine pioneer Harry McWatters continues his stellar way with Bordeauxvarietal whites. This Sauv Blanc (79%)/Sémillon (21%) blend bolts from the glass with fragrant, complex aromas/flavours: honeydew, tangerine, mango and gooseberry. Lemony acidity ensures freshness; barrel fermentation imbues rich-
90 Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Rosé Brut NV, Niagara Peninsula ($45)
89 Kacaba Unoaked Chardonnay 2012, Niagara Escarpment ($14.95)
Straw-coloured, this medium-bodied wine has a floral/ apple nose with a dry red-apple flavour. It’s fresh and lively and nicely balanced by citrus acidity. It’s a wine for quaffing on the dock or the patio or matching with tapas. (TA)
89 Time Chardonnay 2011, Sundial Vineyard, Okanagan ($28)
Proprietor Harry McWatters foresaw the potential of the Black Sage Bench’s sandy loam soil over 20 years ago. Bold scents and luscious flavours of honeysuckle, pineapple and butterscotch. Apple-like crispness balances the buttery texture and oak-derived complexity. Finishes with a lick of lemon oil and vanilla spice. Tasty with bacon polenta. (HH)
88 Château des Charmes Chardonnay Musqué 2010, Niagara ($16.95) Musqué is an aromatic clone
of Chardonnay. This stainless steel–fermented wine is a pale straw colour; honeysuckle, fennel and apple on the nose with a dry, medium-bodied apple flavour and a floral note. Good staying power on the palate with a spicy finish. (TA)
88 Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate Grand Reserve Gewürztraminer 2012, Niagara ($19.95)
Aromas of rose, orange blossom, clove, honey and grapefruit meet up with the lychee, peach, papaya and pineapple on the palate. There is a soft texture, low acidity and very good length. (ES)
87 Reif Estate Winery Riesling 2011, Niagara River ($11.75)
Peach, lime, grapefruit, honey, green apple and minerals are all present in this off-dry Riesling. The acidity is high, providing freshness and a delicate finish. Drink now with Thai coconut curry or tacos al pastor. (ES)
85 Kacaba Vineyards Unoaked Chardonnay 2012, Niagara ($14.95)
Here, one will find a fairly aromatic white with a personality of red apple, pear, citrus and minerals. Drink now. (ES)
92 Rennie Estate Gaia 2011, Niagara ($50, barrel sample)
This wine was not complete when tasted with just a bit more oak aging left to go. It’s a blend of 50% Merlot, and 25% of both Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon with the grapes dried appassimento-style to 29
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//the notes Brix. The nose is extraordinary with juicy plums, kirsch, sweet blackcurrants, cigar-box cedar, graphite, cinnamon and cocoa. This is a substantive wine with dark berry-fruits and a baker’s rack of spices that coat the palate and echo through the finish. The tannins are substantive and will need time to integrate, but anyone who thinks appassimento doesn’t work in Niagara should try this beautiful full-bodied wine. (RV)
92 Bachelder Lowrey Vineyard Pinot Noir 2011, Niagara ($45)
93 Five Rows Craft Wine Shiraz 2010, Niagara ($50)
92 Five Rows Craft Wine Pinot Noir 2010, Niagara ($50)
This is pure Syrah (despite the Shiraz name), a reflection of the vineyard and what it can deliver under perfect conditions in Niagara. A nose that’s meaty, earthy and smoky with gobs of dark, rich black fruits, pepper and an array of other spices. And, in the mouth, yes, there are firm tannins, but structural tannins — not overly aggressive, to go with blackberries, cassis, currants and cracked peppercorns — all lifted by vibrant acidity. (RV)
92 Rennie Estate Pinot Noir Paradox 2011, Niagara ($40)
Graham Rennie shows he can go from his full-blown, in-your-face style of red wine to this elegant Pinot Noir. The nose displays fragrant cherry, raspberry, violets and spicy nutmeg and cinnamon with just a touch of earth. It’s perfectly spiced on the palate with beetroot, savoury cherry, strawberry and a touch of liquorice that travels on a silky bed of medium tannins. (RV)
60 // October 2013
Bachelder sourced the fruit for his first Niagara Pinot from the Lowrey Vineyard’s original 5 rows in St Davids. This is a pretty Pinot with violets, black cherry, cassis and earthy-spicy notes on the nose. It’s ripe yet silky on the palate with gorgeous cherry-raspberry fruit that’s persistent through a lengthy finish. Such finesse and verve, and balanced already. (RV)
The nose shows loam, black cherry, field raspberry, violets, cassis and savoury spices. The beauty of this wine really emerges on the palate with darker fruits, smoke, mushrooms, dried savoury spices, liquorice and layers of complexity that is all held together by a firm bed of tannins and oak. Lay it down for a few years. (RV)
91 Tawse Cabernet Franc Laundry Vineyard 2010, Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula ($36)
Lovely aromas and texture with layers of currant, blackberry and a meaty quality; coffee, mineral, earth and dried and fresh herbs, with fine tannins and an elegant, lasting, nicely lifted finish. (GB)
91 Black Hills Nota Bene 2011, Okanagan ($53) This iconic Bordeaux-style Cab Sauv/Merlot/Cab Franc blend opens with its characteristic aromas of cedar, blackcurrant and sagebrush.
The elegantly structured palate showcases dark fruit and cocoa flavours, balanced by fresh acidity and firm tannins. Finishes with lingering cigar box and dried sage. A reliable companion to grilled meats. (HH)
90 G Marquis Silver Line Epic Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc 2010, Ontario ($29.95)
This is the best wine I have tasted from Magnotta’s G Marquis portolio. 50% Merlot, 25% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Dense ruby-purple in colour with a bouquet of cedar and blackcurrants; medium-bodied; savoury, herbal, black olive and currant flavours with a floral grace note. (TA)
90 Laughing Stock Syrah 2011, Okanagan ($52)
Elegant and fresh with plum, raspberry, blackberry, pepper, spice and fresh herbs; firm but approachable tannins and a lingering, lifted finish. A very versatile food wine to go with roasted pork, chicken, beef or lamb. (GB)
89 13th Street Gamay Noir 2011, Niagara ($20)
A versatile food wine. Light purple in colour with a rich, smoky cherry-berry nose; medium-bodied, dry with crisp acidity and a gentle tannic line giving it good structure. Ideal for charcuterie. (TA)
89 Road 13 Syrah-Malbec 2011, Okanagan ($42) Dark and silky in texture with layers of blackberry, black cherry, liquorice, sweet
leather and fresh herbs; soft tannins and a long, fresh finish. (GB)
88 Tantalus Pinot Noir 2010, Okanagan ($30)
Fragrant floral, Bing cherry and caramelized spice aromas. Vibrant acidity bolsters lively plum, tangy raspberry and earthy rhubarb flavours. Allspice, cinnamon and quinine linger long on the elegantly tannic finish. Delicious with duck. (HH)
87 Arrowleaf Zweigelt 2011, Okanagan ($22)
Fresh and juicy aromas with red cherry, melon and stone fruit and notes of citrus, fresh herbs, game and a dash of pepper; lots of mineral on the soft, juicy finish. A very cool, interesting and drinkable wine. (GB)
/Chile / 89 Miguel Torres Santa Digna Estelado Sparkling Brut Rosé, Curico ($19.95)
Made from the Pais grape — the grape first planted by Spanish conquistadors in the 16th century — this light pink sparkler has flavours of sour cherry and blood orange. It’s beautifully dry and refreshing. (TA)
89 Maycas del Limarí Pinot Noir Reserva 2012, Limarí Valley ($16.95)
A great-value Pinot. Deep ruby colour; rhubarb and raspberry nose with an earthy note; medium-bodied, elegant, dry, well-made with a light oak nuance. (TA)
88 Arboleda Carménère 2009, Valle de Colchagua ($20.99)
Interesting bouquet reveals red currant, raspberry and piquant herbal notes together with a pinch of clove and cinnamon. Blackberry and currant flavours show up on the palate with mineral, brisk tannic grip and balanced acidity. (SW)
87 Emiliana Adobe Reserva Merlot 2011, Rapel Valley ($13)
Smoky red fruits, all organic, on the nose to go with black pepper, liquorice and anise with just a pinch of mint. It’s soft and fruity on the palate with cherry-raspberry fruit, peppery notes and light spice. Great barbecue sipper, or serve with swordfish, tuna, cured hams or sausages. (RV)
86 Carmen Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, Valle de Colchagua DO ($13.49)
Varietal blackcurrant, blackberry with a whiff of clove and hints of green herb on the nose. Succulent dark fruit flavours are backed up by deftly balanced tannins and acid. Dark chocolate and coffee notes on the finish. (SW)
84 Carmen Reserva Merlot 2009, Valle de Colchagua DO ($13.49)
Shows mellow, ripe, developed plum with rounded tannins, milk chocolate and spice with a firm touch of tannic grip on the finish. This is a mature wine that should be drunk soon. (SW)
/France / 93 Rolly Gassmann Rotleibel de Rorschwihr Auxerrois 2007, Alsace ($20.95)
Auxerrois doesn’t get any better than this full-bodied wine. Neon yellow in colour, this wine has an intense bouquet of peaches. The flavour is rich, spicy honeyed peach with a soft mouthfeel. Beautifully balanced. (TA)
92 Louis Roederer Cristal Champagne 2005 ($283.25)
The nose shows some evolution with notes of mushrooms and minerality. Imposing, intense, even powerful in its expression, this is serious Champagne. No sugar in sight, but lots of character and rich complexity. (GBQc)
90 Domaines Schlumberger Les Princes Abbés Pinot Gris 2010, Alsace ($19.95)
Forget Pinot Grigio; this is what Pinot Gris should taste like. Straw-coloured with a minerally nectarine and honey nose; rich honey and peach flavour, full on the palate and beautifully balanced. (TA)
90 Louis Roederer Brut Premier Champagne ($66.50)
Pleasant nose of white fruits, fresh and light; a mineral touch adds complexity. Elegant, very fine on the palate; classy acidity, completely dry. Maybe a bit shy in its expression, but it is more about finesse and elegance than power. (GBQc)
89 Domaine des Aubuisières Cuvée de Silex Vouvray 2011, Loire ($17.95)
Silex is a flint-and-sandbased soil type found primarily in the Loire Valley. It’s formed from a mixture of clay, limestone and silica and it gives the Chenin Blanc grape a special flavour in Vouvray. Pale straw in colour, this wine has a nose of quince and honey. It’s medium-bodied with a minerally pear flavour, clean with a honeycomb wax finish. (TA)
89 Comtesse de Volagré 2008, Montlouis-sur-Loire ($18)
Chenin Blanc from an appellation near Vouvray. Pale silvery yellow. Seductive nose of apricot, honey and tangerine, with a hint of green olive. Full-bodied, almost thick on the palate, the acidity strikes first to ensure the sweetness does not overwhelm. Grapefruit and melon flavours predominate now, but this will last a long time and become more complex. (RL)*
89 Drappier Carte d’Or Brut Champagne ($44.25)
Hard to find a good Champagne under $50. Nice nose of fully ripe white fruits, not without finesse. Elegant on the palate, its finish is clean with very good length. A festive bubbly that will keep your wallet as happy as your palate. (GBQc)
86 Lamblin et Fils Chablis Fleur d’Acacia 2010 ($19.50) Pale yellow. Nose of apple,
lemon and a hint of caramel. In the mouth we have classic Chablis purity and minerality with unexpectedly rich fruit for Chablis from a cool year. Full-bodied; drinking well now but will improve over a couple of years. (RL)*
94 La Fleur d’Amelie 2010, AOC Bordeaux ($19.50)
Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with a touch of Petit Verdot. Deep plum-red. Nose of mint, spice, leather and old varnish. Medium-bodied, in the mouth we have black fruits, mocha and black liquorice with lots of tannins from the oak aging. Too young now; will last a long time. (RL)*
93 Bachelder Nuits-St-Georges La Petite Charmotte Burgundy 2011, ($54)
The Thomas Bachelder style shines through all his Pinots, from Niagara to Oregon to Burgundy. They are never overdone, always with a sense of graceful power and finesse. This gorgeous wine shows fruits of anise, raspberry, ripe cherry and cassis with a pretty floral and incense notes. The tannins are evident but smooth, and the ripe fruits are bolstered by crunchy minerality and light savoury spice through a long finish. Buy, hold and enjoy years down the road. (RV)
92 Château d’Aydie Madiran 2009, Southwest ($23.35)
Purplish. Oak and ripe black fruits dominate the nose.
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//the notes Very nice fruity taste, expressive; tannins are fully wrapped, but their power is still felt beneath the fruit. Oak is very present but not obtrusive. A nice glass of hearty red on a cold autumn evening. (GBQc)
92 Château de Chamirey Mercurey 2010, Burgundy ($27.70)
Light ruby. Enticing, typical Pinot Noir nose of small red fruits, spicy notes and touches of vanilla and earth. Crunchy fruit taste; hints of fruit stones enliven the middle palate. Very nice, the supple finish has great balance. Drinks beautifully now and will for the next 5 years or so. (GBQc)
91 Château Vignelaure 2000, Provence ($64.33/Magnum)
Medium-deep garnet. Smells like a lovely old Cabernet Sauvignon — stewed fruits, cherry jam, smoke and leather — but true to the south of France, also contains Syrah and Grenache. Medium-bodied, the acidity and soft tannins are in good balance. The Provençal sunshine is evident in the huge fruit, with cassis and fig flavours and a long finish. From a good year; don’t wait to drink this. (RL)*
89 Domaine Le Roc Cuvée Don Quichotte 2009, Fronton, Southwest ($18.55)
Full ruby. Toasted oak and vanilla, spices and black fruits. Very expressive in the mouth, spicy taste, medium to full body. Original and interesting from a little-known appellation. (GBQc)
62 // October 2013
89 J Drouhin Pinot Noir 2010, Burgundy ($22)
Pale ruby. Nice Pinot nose of small red fruits and earth with a touch of spicy oak. Soft attack, lively acidity; good fruit extraction; tight middle palate with very soft tannins. Pleasant finish. Well-made and ready to drink. (GBQc)
88 Château Lecusse Gaillac 2005, Southwest ($20)
Dark colour. Oak hits your nose first, followed by notes of black fruits. Full-bodied but velvety, the tannins have melted somewhat, but they remain firm and a little astringent. The finish is tight and clean with notes of ripe fruits, lifted by acidity. Very reasonable price given the vintage. (GBQc)
87 Le Pinot de Saint Auriol 2012, Pays d’Oc IGP ($13.99)
Not a classic expression of Pinot Noir but nonetheless, a terrific wine that showcases the characterful southern French terroir with its robust, black fruit, savoury and spicy flavours, rounded smoothness, solid structure and balance. (SW)
/Greece / 91 Gavala Santorini Blue 2011, Santorini Designation of Origin ($19.99) This lovely, very distinctive white wine is made from Assyrtiko, together with another native Greek variety, Aidani. The unique expression is derived from the island’s volcanic soil. Shows
scents of exotic fruits, citrus and elusive floral overtones with expansive sensations of green and citrus fruit, herb and smoky mineral in the mouth. Everything is pulled into balance with crisp, zesty acidity on the finish. (SW)
88 Gaia Thalassitis Assyrtiko 2011, Santorini ($21.95)
Fruit from 80-year-old Assyrtiko vines. Pale straw in colour, you can smell the volcanic soil in which these grapes were grown — minerally, smoky melon nose; medium-bodied with a crisply dry crabapple flavour carried on lively acidity. (TA)
/Italy / 89 Fabiano Le Coste 2011, Soave DOC, Veneto ($17)
Characteristically fresh, lemony Soave nose, with hints of honeydew and wet stone. Crisp acidity balances the panna cotta texture. The 80% Garganega influence exerts itself via the layered citrus, melon and apple flavours, and especially through the almond and lemon peel finish. Antipasti now, please! (HH)
89 Prevedello Asolo Superiore Extra Dry Prosecco 2011, Veneto ($17.95)
Toronto restaurateur Franco Prevedello’s own Prosecco from his hometown vineyard in Asolo. Almost water-white in colour; off-dry with white peach flavours; elegant and refreshing with good length. (TA)
88 Villa Mondi Soave Classico 2011 ($13.17)
Pale silvery yellow. Typical and vigorous nose of apple, banana, peach and spice. Granny Smith apple on the palate, lots of fruit extract balanced by nice acidity. In a different class from the average wine-lake Soave. (RL)*
88 Borgo alla Terra Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2011 ($14.33)
Pale silvery yellow. Nose of apricots, bananas, tangerine and grapefruit. Medium-bodied, very dry with flinty and bitter almond flavours and lots of lemony acidity. A refreshing, elegant food wine, perfect for drinking outdoors paired with grilled chicken with herbs, Italian-style. (RL)*
88 Miopasso Fiano 2011, Sicily ($14.95)
The Fiano grape is pretty well exclusive to Italy’s Campania province and to Sicily. Miopasso Fiano comes from Sicily. Golden colour, medium weight; a minerally nose of tropical fruit; richly extracted, creamy mouthfeel with flavours of sweet grapefruit and a savoury finish. (TA)
87 Musita Catarratto 2011, Sicilia IGP ($11.99)
From the Catarrato grape, this aromatic drop sets out exotic tropical fruit, floral and spicy scents with lusciously fresh fruit flavours, mineral and creamy honeyed spice offset with clean acidity. (SW)
92 Ser Dante 2006, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG ($39)
From the powerful bouquet
through exceptional balance, fine fruit and deft use of oak, this one emanates complexity. Although it can be enjoyed now, it will be better with another 3 years or so cellaring to smooth out aggressive acidity. (SW)
92 Falesco Montiano 2010, Lazio IGT ($47)
I first tasted this 100% Merlot wine with the 1999 vintage, and since that time, I have been a strong advocate. With 14% alcohol, there is admirable depth, and a personality of plum, cherry, graphite, spice, bitter chocolate and vanilla. Full-bodied, there is elegance as well as a solid backbone of tannins. Drink over the next 15 years. (ES)
92 Cantina Bolzano Taber Riserva Lagrein 2010, Alto Adige ($49)
88 Fabiano La Piazzola 2011, Valpolicella DOC, Veneto ($20)
A light, fragrant nose, yet effusive with scents of fresh herbs, red berries and liquorice. Supported by modest 12% alcohol, it’s a lively dance on a well-balanced palate, graced by juicy cherry, tangy plum, dried herbs and lingering chocolate notes. Food-friendly, particularly with tomato-sauced dishes. (HH)
85 Musita Nero d’Avola 2010, Sicilia IGP ($13.99) A stylish wine made from Sicily’s signature red grape showing intriguing spicy character, succulent ripe berry fruit, well-balanced acidity and a lick of milk chocolate. (SW)
85 Melini 2011, Chianti DOCG ($17.99)
Lagrein is a red grape native to the Alto Adige (Südtirol in German) region in Northern Italy. It is also a personal favourite. This interpretation is black/purple and has a soaring nose of dark cherry, plum, spice, earth, herbs and cocoa. The palate presents a combination of high tannins, fresh acidity and excellent length. It will age well for 15 years. (ES)
/New / Zealand
90 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva 2009, Tuscany ($35)
92 Saint Clair Pioneer Block 10 Chardonnay 2010, Marlborough ($25)
This perennial bang for the buck CCR offers up a bouquet of cherry, humus, leather, raspberry, dried flowers and leather. The same is found on the palate, as well as plum, earth and tar. Excellent length. Drink over the next 8 years. (ES)
Shows cherry fruit, chocolate and spice on the nose. Rich dark cherry and chocolate flavours reprise on the palate with lightly firm tannins, good acidity and lingering fruit, spice and chocolate on the finish. Leans towards the New-World style. (SW)
This single-vineyard Chardonnay is really Burgundian in style: straw-coloured with a spicy apple and forest-floor nose heightened by vanilla oak. It’s full-bodied and elegant; beautifully balanced peach and apple flavours with great length. (TA)
89 Villa Maria Estate Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Marlborough ($16.50)
Pale yellow. Powerful nose of citrus, grassy notes and asparagus so characteristic of NZ. Sauvignon Blanc with an added touch of minerality. The cutting acidity is very refreshing; the middle palate takes on body and roundness from the barely noticeable residual sugar. Its smooth texture lingers through the finish that shows a slight acid lift. Drink now. (GBQc)
/Portugal / 88 Lua Nova em Vinhas Velhas 2010, Douro Valley ($14.95)
Made from a field blend of old vines, this rugged red is dense purple in colour with a nose of spicy black berries; it’s a full-bodied, powerful wine — dry and fruity with earthy notes, firmly structured with ripe tannins. Good value. Food match: barbecue ribs; pepper steak. (TA)
/South / Africa 90 Sterhuis Chardonnay 2011, Stellenbosch ($24)
This Chardonnay was aged and fermented in new French barrels. This has created a medium- to full-bodied mix of peach, pineapple, fig, honey, toast, cream, anise and white flowers. There is excellent length and just the right amount of acidity required for food-friendliness. Pair with filet of halibut or Chilean sea bass. (ES)
89 KWV Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay 2012, Western Cape ($15.95)
KWV’s Chardonnay offers serious bang for the buck! Peach, white flowers, honey, fig, anise and bubble gum/ tutti frutti are all on the nose. The palate reveals more bubble gum as well as apple, pineapple and citrus. There is crisp acidity, very good length and a slight creaminess. (ES)
89 Ken Forrester Reserve Chenin Blanc 2011, Stellenbosch ($17.95)
This Chenin Blanc, year in, year out, is a stalwart standard of quality. This vintage spent 9 months in oak, producing lovely balance between the wood and fruit. Fresh apple, honey, pear, peach, wet wool, spice, flowers and cream are all layered on a medium-bodied frame. There is ample length and refreshing acid, which rounds out the package. Ideal with a braised rabbit stew. (ES)
93 De Trafford 393 Syrah 2010, Stellenbosch ($70)
This Syrah unquestionably falls into the massive/ extracted category. Purple in colour, it pushes 16% alcohol, and even though 50% new oak was used, it has been properly absorbed. The wine coats the mouth with glycerin as well as sweet plum, cherry, vanilla, raspberry, violets, vanilla, earth, spice and cocoa flavours. There are more than enough tannins to take it 10-plus years. Lovers of Aussie Shiraz will go gaga over this South African icon! (ES)
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//the notes 87 Clos Malverne Le Café Pinotage 2011, Stellenbosch ($13.95)
“Coffee” Pinotage is the latest vinification rage to have taken hold in South Africa, vis-à-vis the country’s signature red grape. The process, which involves placing the juice in stainless tanks, adding new wood staves and fermenting with select strains of yeast, produces dark-coloured wines with a distinct coffee aroma and less sauvage/harsh qualities. Other aromas include cassis, smoke, raspberry and cocoa. Drink now. (ES)
86 Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2012, Coastal Region ($14.95)
The raspberry candy, smoke, plum and spice are woven together on the nose and palate. There is medium length and a soft finish. (ES)
/Spain / 88 Alvarez de Toledo Godello 2010, Bierzo DO ($14.99) Ripe melon, peach and a whiff on honey on the nose carry through in the mouth with zesty peach, melon and
citrus notes backed up by lively acidity, mineral and spicy, creamy baked apple. Offers an amazing array of flavours with good balance and freshness. (SW)
88 Josep Maria Raventós i Blanc Cava Reserva Brut ($20.15) More complexity on the nose than is usual for a Cava, with fruity notes, chalky minerality and even a touch of rancio. Very dry; clean acidity and a neat finish. Very good. (GBQc)
87 Bodegas Concavins Montblanc 362 Viura/ Chardonnay 2011, DO Conca de Barberà ($10.08)
Easy drinking on a summer afternoon, the Viura adds interest to a hot-climate Chardonnay. Medium-deep yellow. Nose of tropical fruits and melons. Medium-bodied; soft on the palate with flavours of rhubarb, peach and apricot. (RL)*
85 Vega Sindoa Viura Chardonnay 2012, DO Navarra ($9.99)
A combination of native Viura with Chardonnay, this one wafts scents of tropical
fruit and ripe cantaloupe shifting to citrus and yellow pear, with creamy spiciness and refreshingly bright acidity on the palate. (SW)
94 O Fournier Alfa Spiga 2006, DO Ribera del Duero ($30.33) Dark garnet, almost black. Rich aromas of black cherry, vanilla, smoke and roasted meat. The concentration of cherry fruit makes this wine almost sweet. 20 months aging in new oak provides mocha flavours and a long finish. Full-bodied with 15% alcohol, but manages to be classy rather than clumsy. Will improve over a couple of years, then last a few years more. (RL)*
89 Pergolas Old Vines Crianza Tempranillo 2010, Valdepeñas ($12)
Smoky, dusty aromas, with well-integrated sweet-vanilla American oak scents. Savoury flavours buttressed by ripe strawberry and juicy plum. Long, earthy balsamic finish. Great price point, so perfectly suited for a wine-by-the-glass option at a barbecue restaurant. “Like” the new “old vines” label. (HH)
Wine Care Specialists
Strictly Cellars & Accessories
• Wine cellars from 30 to 500 bottles or more • Wine racking and cooling systems • Select wine accessories and stemware
Kelowna, BC 250-448-7225
1-866-396-7225 w w w.strictlycellars.com
64 // October 2013
89 Balbas Reserva 2001, Ribera del Duero ($20)
A blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. New-World in style: dense ruby colour with a cedar and tobacco nose; full on the palate, dry, richly extracted black fruit flavours with a firm tannic finish. Still youthful for its age. (TA)
87 Opimian Crianza Especial 2008, DO La Mancha ($13.83)
Made in the New-World style. Deep plum-red. Nose of cherries, spice, a little sulphur that dissipates. Sweet blueberry and cherry fruit–forward, but saved from boredom by lots of gruff tannins and good acidity. Straightforward; not complex, but tasty. (RL)*
/United / States 87 SeaGlass Pinot Gris, 2011, Santa Barbara County ($14.99)
Combining ripeness with cool-climate fruit freshness, this one offers scents of ripe green fruit, grapefruit with sappy apple, citrus, mineral grip and a light honeyed note on the palate. (SW)
87 Château SteMichelle Riesling 2010, Columbia Valley, Washington ($19.25)
Very pale, grey rim. Minerally, with citrus and a light petrol note for a classic Riesling nose. Delicate taste and light body; semi-dry in the middle palate but the finish is almost dry. (GBQc)
89 Bonterra Pinot Noir 2010, Mendocino County, California ($20)
Light ruby. Delicate nose of ripe red fruits and spicy vanilla undertones from the oak. Sweet cooked-fruit taste; mild acidity, mellow mouthfeel with delicate, very smooth tannins. A ripe style of Pinot, ready to drink. (GBQc)
88 Château SteMichelle Syrah 2010 Columbia Valley, Washington ($19.90)
Ruby colour. Nice black fruits and quite a bit of oak but not too much. The low acidity gives a mellow mouthfeel and a slightly jammy taste. A welcome touch of anise complements notes of liquorice. This is a “comfort” wine that will appeal to a wide audience. (GBQc)
/Uruguay / 92 Artesana Tannat/ Merlot 2011, Canelones ($23)
A 60%/40% blend. The seductive nose offers all manner of delightful fragrances: herbal, floral, earthy, dark fruits. The rich, plush-textured palate delivers complex chocolate and black/red fruits,
framed by velvety tannins. The exotic finish highlights allspice and intense smokiness. A heady 15.3% alcohol, yet a very sexy wine. Aerate before serving. Will impress at wine tastings. (HH)
89 Pisano Reserva Personal de la Familia (RPF) Tannat 2008, Progreso ($26)
Perfumed nose of violets, black fruits and wood spice aromas. Rich, ripe fruits on the palate, dense with jammy blackberry and blackcurrant flavour, and supported by firm, robust tannins. Lingers with smoky, meaty notes. Poised and ready for any barbecue action, or a traditional “asado.” (HH)
88 Don Pascual Reserve Shiraz/Tannat 2011, Juanicó ($14)
Shiraz (70%) dominates the aromas: violets, dark fruits, smoky notes. Tannat (30%) builds the structure: full-bodied, inky texture, powerful-yet-smooth tannins. They combine to offer ripe, rich flavours such as blackberry and sweet plum. Nutmeg and liquorice linger. Think beef: burger, stew or roast. (HH)
87 H Stagnari La Puebla Viejo Tannat 2008, Salto ($20)
“Old-school” style rules with this wine. Remarkable woody, earthy, smoky scents, with whiffs of balsamic. Very rustic on the palate, featuring hickory-wood flavours, powerful tannins, and candied cherry notes. Manly cigar-box finish. Fire up the smoker, then strike up a conversation. (HH)
The Tidings Cooking Challenge
is an opportunity for food lovers to try their hand at creating something together. Not all in the same kitchen, of course. Rather, try the recipe in your own time and then tell me what you thought of it here: quench.me/hunger/ marbled-porter-cheesecake. Porter is a type of strong beer, like stout. Described as having pronounced flavours of chocolate or coffee, the nuances come from the colour of the malt and how long it’s been roasted. Porter makes a stellar ingredient in baking, and cheesecake makes a great base for those yummy malt flavours.
Marbled Porter Cheesecake Serves 10
crust 2
1/4
cups chocolate wafers pounded into fine crumbs cup melted butter
filling 1 3
cup sour cream tbsp corn starch 1/2 to 1 cup sugar 3 lbs cheese (ricotta, cream cheese) 1 cup Porter 4 eggs 1 1/4 cups melted semi-sweet chocolate
1. Preheat oven to 275°F. Cover base and sides with foil so that no water can touch the cheesecake while its baking. 2. Toss the crumbs with the butter and press into the bottom of a springform pan. Set it aside. 3. Stir together sour cream, cornstarch and sugar in a bowl. In another bowl, whisk together, cream cheese, Porter and eggs until well combined. Gently stir the sour cream mixture into the cheese mixture. 4. Pour batter into the a springform pan, and tap on counter to release air. Pour in melted chocolate, and with a spatula, gently cut chocolate through the cheese mixture to a marbling effect. 5. Place springform into a large pot. Pour boiling water into the pot about 1/4 of the way up the sides of the springform pan, being careful not to wet the cheesecake. 6. Bake for 2 hours, replenishing water if needed, or until cake has set. Turn off oven and, without opening the door, allow the cake to cool in the oven for 2 1/2 hours. 7. Remove foil and sore in fridge overnight. Remove sides from springform and cut cake with a wet knife warmed in hot water.
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exalted in pec\\ “Exultet” is a Latin hymn in praise of the paschal candle in the liturgy of Holy Saturday. For Gerry Spinoza and his wife Lia, who named their Prince Edward County boutique winery Exultet Estates, the term means “a song of rejoicing. Joy and praise for wines that are transcendent and meaningful, emerging from darkness.” Certainly it’s no longer a case of hiding their candle under a grapevine, because Exultet has won the Ontario Wine Awards’ Best Chardonnay Over $20 award for the last three years running. The wine the couple have named “The Blessed” must surely be just that, because the 2011 vintage recently won the Lieutenant Governor’s Award for Excellence in Ontario Wines. At the presentation ceremony held in Queen’s Park in July, the Spinozas were accompanied by their two young sons, Mario (age 12) and Joseph (age 8). Their presence was only fitting because the boys are winemakers in the making: last fall they went through their parents’ Pinot Noir vineyard after the harvesters had finished their work and collected the grape bunches that remained on the vines. These were crushed, fermented and bottled as Mario & Joseph Knucklehead Red 2012. (I tasted it when I visited the winery, and it was light and deliciously refreshing.) Exultet Estates is a rather grand name for a winery that makes a mere 1,000 cases of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio and Vidal Icewine (one of the few producers of this dessert wine in The County). Unlike most of the new PEC wineries that operate out of refurbished barns, Exultet is housed in what used to be the Royal Street Cheese Factory which flourished in the 1870s in the hamlet of Milford, deep in the heart of Prince Edward County. Its vineyards were planted in 2004. This enterprise is one of many exciting new wineries that have sprung up in Prince Edward County in the last decade, making it the fastest-growing wine region in Canada. Currently there are some 30 wineries on the island with at least five more opening in the next two years. And this from a region that crushes only one per cent of the grapes grown in Ontario. While some PEC wineries “import” fruit from the Niagara Peninsula, those that use exclusively county-grown fruit account in total for some 80,000 cases — the scale of a single, mid-sized Niagara winery. Emerging wine regions need a destination winery to attract tourists, and that The County has in Huff Estates, the largest facility in PEC, producing around 1100 cases. (Huff’s winemaker, Frédéric Picard, made the first Champagne-method sparkler in The County which is rivalled only by the bubblies made by another of PEC’s tiny operations, Hinterland.) With its contemporary barn structure set above the cellars, its restaurant, convention centre inn, art gallery, sculpture garden and helipad, Huff Estates has become a magnet for wine tourists in the area. Their South Bay Chardonnay is also a consistent medal-winner.
66 // October 2013
final word
by tony aspler
Ever mindful of the need to draw visitors to the region, savvy destination marketers have devised a Taste Trail that integrates winery visits with cheese producers, a craft brewery, restaurants , inns and a famous ice cream parlour. In addition they have also created an Arts Trail with prescribed routes that link the galleries and ateliers of local artists, artisans, photographers, sculptors and potters in a web of towns and hamlets. The Waring House Inn even has two artists-in-residence with studios on the property. What the wine folk of Prince Edward County have managed to achieve in a few short years could be a template for any nascent wine region in the world when it comes to attracting potential consumers down to wine country. •
illustration: FRancesco Gallé, www.francescogalle.com
Please enjoy responsibly.
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