Fall Q 2011 by QUEST Magazine

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E FA L L I S S U E 2011 > $5.00

FALL CLASSICS

marisa berenson, 1966 photographed by bert stern

RALPH

Collection

LAUREN

RALPH

View the Runway Show and go behind the scenes with the Ralph Lauren application on your iPhone速 or visit R A LPHL AUR EN.COM /COLLECT ION

Collection

LAUREN 8 8 8

M a d i s o n

a v e n u e

n e w

Y o r k

3 0 0

w o r t h

a v e n u e

P a l M

B e a c h

Begin your own tradition.

Something truly precious holds its beauty forever.

Annual Calendar Ref. 4936G, Calatrava rings.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

C O N T E N T S FA L L 2 0 11

F E A T U R E S

38 LIVING LEGEND Doris Day is our Living Legend this fall. Written by the legendary gossip journalist Liz Smith, you’ll soon learn that for as sweet and wholesome as Ms. Day appeared, the lady was nine parts steel. 48 fashion on the farm The Q fashion team heads up to the gorgeous Smithfield Farms in Millbrook with Karen Klopp, Hilary Dick, Nicole Mellon, and Kick Kennedy for a day of horsing around the farm. 56 a modern muse Lisa Chung reviews the new book Marisa Berenson: A Life in Pictures, published by Rizzoli.

60 the new resort rage Q’s intrepid fashion editor Daniel Cappello reports on the season’s best looks. 68 the sport of kings Georgina Schaeffer heads out to the polo fields for this installment of “Q Sport.” 76 a style tale The story of a spilled glass of wine, a fashion coup de foudre, and a new business.

80 shades of spring Bold yellows, soft blues, fruity oranges, emerald greens, and even neutral gray and white— we offer our preview of next spring’s palette. 84 the woman behind the great aha! Helena Khazanova and Alexis Theodoracopulos take a visit to the offices of AHALife for a profile on founder Shauna Mei. 90 backstage pass: Charlotte ronson Photojournalist Harry Benson brings his camera behind the scenes at Fashion Week, while Elizabeth Quinn Brown interviews the inspiring Charlotte Ronson.

C O V E R

68 Q10

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

Marisa Berenson in a cobra jacket from Fleming-Joffe paired with a cream-colored skirt. Photographed by Bert Stern in January, 1966. Credit: Condé Nast Archive/Corbis.

769 madison avenue, new york city

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

C O N T E N T S FA L L 2 0 11

D E P A R T M E N T S

21 Nostalgia Remembering our favorite pastimes of the season. 24 Jewelry The ever-classic Marlene Dietrich is our inspiration for this season’s glittering gems. 26 capes The great capes are back. Look back to Cardin’s designs and you’ll see why they should always be in style. 28 coats Hedy Lamarr, wrapped in houndstooth, is right on point with Ferragamo’s runway. Look to this page for warmth.

30 bags Lucille Ball takes accessories to the A-list. 31 shoes Barbra Streisand epitomizes New York City style in her lace-up boots. Now you can follow in her footsteps. 32 lingerie The sultry Sophia Loren shows how it’s done. 34 accessories For your finishing touches this season, take some cool cues from Carly Simon and James Dean. 36 sunglasses Beautiful Brigitte Bardot’s eyes seem to smile behind her shades. Channel her with a few of our favorites.

96 q focus Behind the scenes of the hottest parties from coast to coast and up and down the eastern shoreline. 102 make me blush An interview with Jouer’s Christina Zilber. 104 beauty Our latest roundup of the best beauty products. 106 evening looks From Grace Kelly to Jerry Hall, take inspiration from the most glamorous women for evening attire.

35 Q12

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

110 shopping index Where to find the looks from these pages. 112 staff selections Our favorite fall scents.

Marie Jose, 1950 • 25 ½ x 20 in • Aquatint on Arches paper

HENRI MATISSE HENRI MATISSE HENRI MATISSE DRAWINGS, PRINTS & MULTIPLES DRAWINGS, PRINTS & MULTIPLES DRAWINGS, PRINTS & MULTIPLES

ON VIEW THROUGH NOVEMBER IN NEW YORK ON VIEW THROUGH NOVEMBER IN NEW YORK ON VIEW THROUGH NOVEMBER IN NEW YORK

WA LY L AY G ALGAL L E RI S S WAL LYL FINDLAY GALLERIES WA LFI LYND F INDL AY L EERIE N E W Y O R K • PA L M B E A C H • B A R C E L O N A N E W Y O RNKE •W PA LR MKB•E PA A CLHM• BBEAARCCHE L YO • OBN AA RCELONA

124 EAST 57 TH ST •THNEW YORK NY 10022 • T (212) 421 F 5390 F (212) 838 2460 TH ST 124 EAST 57124 • NEW NY 10022 (212) 421• T5390 838 F2460 EAST 57 YORK ST • NEW YORK• T NY 10022 (212) (212) 421 5390 (212) 838 2460 165 WORTH AVENUE • PALM BEACH FL 33480 • T (561) 655 2090 F (561) 655 1493 165 WORTH AVENUE • PALM BEACH FL 33480 • T FL (561) 655•2090 F (561) 655 1493 165 WORTH AVENUE • PALM BEACH 33480 T (561) 655 2090 F (561) 655 1493 www.wallyfindlay.com www.facebook.com/wallyfindlay www.wallyfindlay.com www.facebook.com/wallyfindlay www.wallyfindlay.com www.facebook.com/wallyfindlay

EST. 1870

ART ART ART WALLY FINDLAY WALLY FINDLAY WALLY FINDLAY

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

David Patrick Columbia

Elizabeth Meigher

editor-in-Chief

Editor

james stoffel Creative director

Georgina Schaeffer executive editor

lisa chung senior editor

elizabeth quinn brown a ssociate editor

Daniel Cappello fa shion editor

valeria fox A ssociate Art Director

hilary geary societ y Editor

GRACE whitneY courtney peters INTERN s

Joanna Baker co-founding editor

Quest Media, LLC. S. Christopher Meigher III Chairman and C.E.O.

kathleen sheridan a ssi stant to the c.e.o.

arlene lefkoe accounting manager Board of Advisors

Brucie Boalt Edward Lee Cave Barbara CORCORAN JED H. GARFIELD CLARK HALSTEAD howard lorber pamela liebman Elizabeth Stribling Roger W. Tuckerman peter turino William Lie Zeckendorf lisa rosenberg 917.576.8951 greenwich

Bina Gupta 852.2868.1555 Hong Kong

Contributing Editors

Barbara Bancroft Liz smith Taki Theodoracopulos michael thomas Contributing photographers

drew altizer harry benson billy farrell Patrick McMullan alexis theodoracopulos hannah thomson LINDA LANE SOPER 612.308.4159 PA L M BEACH

Emilio Zerboni 011.39.031.267.797 Milan

ÂŠ QUEST MEDIA, LLC 2010. All rights reserved. Vol. 6, No. 3. Q-Quintessential Style is published quarterly, 4 times a year. Yearly subscription rate $24.00. Q, 420 Madison Avenue, Penthouse, 16th floor, New York, NY 10017. 646.840.3404 fax 646.840.3408. For address changes, please call: 646.840.3404. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Q-Quintessential Style, 420 Madison Avenue, Penthouse, 16th floor, New York, NY 10017. subscription Inquiries

Call 646.840.3404, ext. 106

625 Madison avenue

The shops aT ColuMbus CirCle

2151 broadway

675 5Th avenue opening sepTeMber 2011

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

EDITOR’S LETTER

Coco Chanel was as famous for her insightful wit as she was for her revolutionary fashion. “Success is often achieved by those who don’t know that failure is inevitable,” she once said. How true that is, for it is only in identifying our limitations that we allow them to exist. Think about it: How many times have you thought to yourself, “How will I get through all of this?” Chanel was talking about achievers who don’t question, and her view serves as an apt reminder to us all as we strive to succeed this Fall. This issue of Q is brimming with young, brilliant success stories to which Mme. Chanel refers. Take, for starters, Charlotte Ronson. I first met Charlotte during our white-gloved classes at the Knickerbocker Dancing School. I followed her career early on, visiting her loft in 2002 when she was designing “C.Ronson.” Charlotte started designing clothes for her friends (she has very fashionable friends!), and that’s how her clothing line took off. Headstrong and fashion-savvy, I knew then that Charlotte would go far. Harry Benson has brilliantly captured her latest fashion show for us, and Q’s own Elizabeth Quinn Brown offers an informative look at the effortlessly chic urban designer. The cool and comely Helena Khazanova (recently married in Ibizia!) brings us the story of Shauna Mei and her brainchild, AHA Life. Having moved with her family to the U.S. after the Tiananmen Square Massacre in 1989, Shauna graduated from MIT, after which she joined Goldman Sachs, and later co-founded a global luxury-investment group. “I have this gene in me, I have a ferocious passion to change the world,” she says. In her AHA moment, Shauna created something she calls a “buy button for lifestyle.” AHAlife is an online discovery destination where you can learn about, and purchase, the most unique products from around the world, from high-end jewelry and iPad cases to mobile phones and caviar kits—all curated by AHA’s special group of influential tastemakers. Check it out (and join!) at ahalife.com. Another contributor (and recently wed as well—in Hamburg!), Kathryn Bohannon, contributes a piece on the twin designers behind the clothing line Meier from Hamburg. Recently, I saw Kathryn wearing one of these designs—a shearling vest that I absolutely loved (and must have as well!). Kathryn has always possessed such savvy style and not only will you want to wear the clothes she writes about, but I guarantee you’ll get a chuckle from her her ever-entertaining charm and wit. We also profile the new volume Marisa Berenson: A Life in Pictures (Rizzoli). Although Berenson once said, “I never thought of myself as a beauty,” the captivating images illustrate why she was dubbed fashion’s “It Girl” by Yves Saint Laurent. Liz Smith offers a look at another great “It Girl,” Doris Day. Miss Day, independent and nobody’s fool, was a female role model with more grit and feminist virtues than she seems to have been credited for. Pert nose and famous freckles be damned! For a more fun kind of grit—on the field—check out Georgina Schaeffer’s piece on our Q sport for the season, polo. Another member of the Q team, Daniel Cappello, delivers a fresh account of the current resort fashions. This year, designers raised the bar and Clockwise from top left: Backstage at the Charlotte Ronson took their resort shows to especially spectacular locations (Douglas Spring 2012 fashion show; Manolo Blahnik’s Fringestra evening Hannant on the battleship Intrepid, Salvatore Ferragamo at the Duke shoe; fall fashion shoot in Millbrook horse country; J.Crew’s Mansion…exciting!). Read Daniel’s roundup and reflection (Page 60) Colony clutch by Fiona Kotur; new shades from Anne Fontaine; for the full story. an effervescent Brigitte Bardot; stylish contributor Kathryn Finally, remember that life and fashion go hand in hand when you Bohannon; new boots from Hunter Boot; makeup sensation Jouer; think upon what President John F. Kennedy’s adage: “Change is the Ferragamo’s Resort 2012 collection at the Duke House; J.Crew’s law of life. And those who look only to the past or present are certain leather fedora; singer Carly Simon; a Valentino camel coat. to miss the future.” u

ELIZABETH MEIGHER EDITOR

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

CONTRIBUTORS

Liz Smith > Sixty years ago, Liz brought her Texan wit, verve, and nerve to New York. Liz’s latest passion, WOWOWOW.com, offers sophisticated daily content for women over forty. In her career, she held a variety of jobs: proofreader at Newsweek, editor for Modern Screen, typist for Blue Cross. She became entertainment editor for Cosmopolitan and a contract writer for Sports Illustrated. In 1976, she launched a column for the Daily News known simply as “Page Six.” She is the author of several books, including Natural Blonde and Dishing.

Kathryn Bohannon > Style maven Kathryn Bohannon spent her first 13 years in London, but she “grew-up” in New York. At Georgetown University she was a marketing major and went on to a career in global events at Elite Traveler magazine and then for LVMH. After a short stint in Paris, she now lives between Hamburg and Vienna, building a bridge for brands between Germany and New York. Her hobbies include sailing, skiing, traveling, and scouting brands—including Meir from Hamburg which she writes about in this issue.

Alexis Theodoracopulos > For this issue, Alexis teamed up with childhood friend Helena Khazanova to photograph Shauna Mei, founder of AHAlife in her chic new York City office. Alexis has been a contributing photographer to Quest Media since 2010. A New York City native, he studied at Brown and Columbia universities, and trained at the International Center of Photography. In addition to Q and Quest, his editorial work has appeared in the NY Press and on RollingStone.com. He currently is living in London.

Q18

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

38 < Hannah Thomson gained access to Smithfield Farms, Karen and John Klopp’s estate in Millbrook horse country, to shoot fall fashions for this issue of Q. “Photographing Karen Klopp, Hilary Dick, Nicole Mellon, and Kick Kennedy was a phenomenal experience,” Thomson says. “Between the strong presence that each women had, and the art of Daniel Cappello’s styling, I felt like I was capturing beauty at its best.” Thomson’s work can also be seen regularly in the pages of Vogue and Vanity Fair.

76 < Helena Khazanova is a social commentary freelance writer. Her passion for travel keeps her in touch with people, situations, and events which help shape her knowledge and opinion of the latest trends and interests of today’s society. In addition to being a contributor to Q magazine, she has featured work in Paris Match as well as online publications such as ASmallWorld.com. She lives in New York City with her husband, Adrien Gautier, and two dogs. She is currently working on her first novel.

< Harry Benson arrived in America with the Beatles in 1964. Among the lifetime of achievements of this Scottish-born photojournalist, Benson was appointed a Commander of the Order of the British Empire in 2009. His work has been featured in countless magazines, shown in 40 solo exhibitions, and published in 15 books, including “New York, New York,” which is due out in December. He contributes a column to Quest magazine, “It Seems Like Yesterday.” Harry lives in New York with his wife, Gigi.

LUXURY E N T I R E LY Y O U R S

ESSENTIAL

Once you’ve encountered 7000 acres of tropical natural beauty, three private beaches, 63 holes of championship golf, 15 restaurants and the breathtaking Altos de Chavon, you’ll wonder how you ever did without the pleasures of the Caribbean’s Most Complete Resort. Make Casa de Campo Yours.

1.800.336.5520 • 809.523.8733

WWW.CASADECAMPO.COM.DO

RALPH LAUREN Pink Pony

The Pink Pony Fund of the Polo Ralph Lauren Foundation is Ralph Laurenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worldwide initiative in the fight against cancer. Our mission is to reduce disparities in cancer care in medically underserved communities and ensure that treatment is available at an earlier, more curable stage.

Ten percent of proceeds from Pink Pony products benefits the Fund.

To learn more or To visiT The ralph lauren CenTer for CanCer Care and prevenTion, please visiT

RALPHLAUREN.COM/PINKPONY

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

N O S TA L G I A

FAL L AC T IVIT I E S Members of the Delta Zeta sorority

pile into an automobile, circa 1950.

FA L L 2 0 1 1 /

Q21

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

N O S TA L G I A 1

3 4

This page: 1. In honor of Thanksgiving, United States President Harry Truman receives a turkey at the White House from the Poultry and Egg National Board, Nov. 16, 1949; 2. Trick or treat! Two boys dressed as a cowboy and a sultan for Halloween, 1957; 3. “Hallowe’en Greetings.” A hand-drawn vintage notecard features a witch with her black cat; 4. Students pose for their class picture at the Sizewell Hall School, 1956; 5. A college football player in uniform, circa 1950. > Opposite page: 1. Princeton University students drinking beer at the Nassau Tavern, 1946; 2. Pinocchio makes an appearance in the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade; 3. Glamorous Elizabeth Taylor, at the young age of 17, feeding pigeons in a city square; 4. Dustin Hoffman and Meryl Streep co-star in Kramer vs. Kramer (1979); 5. Happiness is a game of fetch. Dog, circa 1950.

Q22

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

N O S TA L G I A 2 1

FA L L 2 0 1 1 /

Q23

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

J E W E L RY

5 3

2 Marlene Dietrich, a German-born American actress whose career took off in the 1920s, said that her favorite meal was hot dogs and champagne. Dietrich, it turns out, was ahead of her time. Today, everyone is mixing the everyday with the special, the affordable with the out-of-reach (think H&M dresses paired with your best Manolos). This approach applies just as well when it comes to dressing up in jewels. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t reserve the fabulous fall pieces from this page for special occasions only. Instead, feel free to pair them with jeans and tee, in order to add a sparkle of champagne to your everyday.

Q24

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

4 1. CINDY CHAO Maple Leaf earrings with diamonds, tsavorites, and 18-kt. yellow gold; $24,500. 2. DAVID YURMAN Amethyst Tapestry ring with 18-kt. gold and diamonds; price upon request. 3. TIFFANY & CO. Tiffany Lockets in 18-kt. gold with enamel and diamonds, or just diamonds; $35,000 each. 4. MIRIAM HASKELL FOR MARCHESA Choker of brass-plated European filigrees, white enamel, and Swarovski crystal; made to order. 5. WEMPE Blu BY KIM rings in 18-kt. rose gold; from $535 (with diamonds, from $1,255). 6. ASPREY Daisy Heritage earrings in amethyst with diamonds; $7,350. 7. de grisogono The Tubetto ring in 18-kt. rose gold and diamonds; $50,200.

Neiman Marcus • Saks Fifth Avenue • Barneys Harrods • Harvey Nichols • Selfidges: London

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

CAPES

1. michael kors There’s a reason why American women keep going back to Michael Kors—his clean, practical designs are fashionably failsafe go-tos. Here, in black, is a wool-blend black cape for fall; approximately $2,795. 2. cynthia steffe Cynthia Steffe’s solid brushed-wool Barry cape in maple is a winner; $525. 3. tommy hilfiger All-American fashion designer Tommy Hilfiger offers his take on a coat-like wool cape; $1,298. 4. j.crew Make an entrance in this stunning cape. Crafted from the finest wool traditionally used for constructing U.S. Navy peacoats, it’s the perfect third piece in place of a jacket. Fully lined, and hits below the hip; $398. 5. akris Akris’s modern line is translated into this Vicuna cashmere double-face cape; $4,880.

The Great Capers Pierre Cardin, the iconic twentieth-century Italian-born fashion designer who worked in France, was recognized the world over for his highly defined architectural aesthetic. His avant-garde styles were always the first of their kind, and are remembered today for how they modernized fashion trends internationally. Even with a supposedly simple staple like the cape, Cardin proved himself a master of form, with double-sided cut-outs, asymmetrical detailing, and those avantgarde touches like oversized clasps and buttons. Whether you decide to don a cape that’s sleek or more traditional, you’ll be on trend this fall in any of the designs offered up by the likes of Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger, J.Crew, Cynthia Steffe, or Akris. The perfect pieces for in-between weather, these capes will help you take flight.

Q26

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

MONTBLANC. THE TIMEWRITERS.

In 1821, Nicolas Rieussec changed watchmaking forever with the invention of the first chronograph. Since “chronograph” literally means “writing time”, the Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph rewrites timepiece history. Crafted in the Montblanc Manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland, this masterpiece is a worthy tribute to its visionary namesake. Monopusher chronograph, self-winding manufacture movement. 30 min. and 60 sec. rotating disc counters fixed on the counter bridge.

m a d i s o n ave n u e

•

soho

•

the westchester

•

montblanc.com

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

C O AT S

Coat Envy Hedy Lamarr, born Hedwig Eva Maria Kiesler, was an Austrian-American actress who was eventually contracted by the Hollywood heavyweight MGM. Growing up in Eastern Europe, Kiesler learned a thing or two about staying warm in the wintertime. By the time she hit silver screen, Lamarr would grab attention in higher fashions. Nothing’s more timeless than a black-and-white checked or houndstooth coat, like the one Lamarr’s wearing here, or this one spotted on Ferragamo fall runway.

7 4

6 1. tommy hilfiger A sleek rain coat, like this one from Tommy Hilfiger, is perfect for surviving the elements in the city; $798. 2. milly Milly is synonymous with colorful, playful, and cheeful clothing. Bring a taste of the tropics to gray fall days in the Diane coat, in guava; $625. 3. valentino Italian elegance: the Panno double coat with rockstud; $4,490. 4. veronica beard Gray double-faced wool trench coat; $1,695. 5. max mara You can’t go wrong in a Max Mara coat; the company’s camels, like this cognac camel-hair drop-waist coat with buckle closure, will last you a lifetime; $2,250. 6. salvatore ferragamo Classic black-and-white wool coat; price upon request. 7. prada Wear your white out with Prada’s gabardine natté coat; $2,930. 8. j.crew Go out in military style with J.Crew’s double-cloth Townhouse trench; $350.

Q28

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

110 East 55th Street

N e w Yo r k , N e w Yo r k 1 0 0 2 2

Te l e p h o n e : ( 2 1 2 ) 7 5 5 - 7 3 7 2

Fax: (212) 755-7627

www.belgianshoes.com

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

BAGS

3 4

You Carry It Well Lucille Ball was known as “Queen of the Bs” because of the roles that she played in mediocre movies. She held her own in films like The Farmer in the Dell, So and Sew, Don’t Tell the Wife, and There Goes My Girl. But, it was her breakout role in I Love Lucy that brought her recognition and fame as a fiery comedian and redhead. This season, you can take your accessories from B-list to A-list with the likes of these handbags. You can’t go wrong with simple black, whether it’s the all-purpose Robinson EW tote from Tory Burch, or the sophisticated Alma BB by Louis Vuitton. Looking for something a little more modern? Then grab and go with Kendall Conrad’s gathered clutch.

Q30

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

1. bulgari The Monete bag in amber jade karung skin with gold chain and metal coins; $2,600. 2. louis vuitton The Epi Electric Alma BB in black; $1,350. 3. ralph lauren Ralph Lauren integrates his iconic stirrup motif into the fabulous suede stirrup tote from Ralph Lauren Collection; $1,195. 4. nancy gonzalez When it comes to bags, Nancy Gonzalez can do no wrong. Here is her autumn-hued metallic gold snakeskin bag; $3,550. 5. vbh VBH’s Vault Piccolla bag in matte red python; $3,500. 6. tory burch The Robinson EW tote in black leather; $550. 7. tiffany & co. Tiffany ’s Genevieve ostrich satchel in light walnut; $4,900. 8. kendall conrad The California stylesetter’s No. 30 gathered clutch in natural lux snakeskin; $1,400.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E SHOES

Boot Camp Barbra Streisand epitomizes a certain kind of New York City style. The Brooklyn-born star—singer, actor, director—certainly broke the mold in the world of show business, proving that a woman could do a man’s job, and then some. Whether on the Broadway stage or traveling between boroughs, she needed boots that were made for walking...and singing and dancing. From her distinct voice to her unique fashion sense, Streisand has always been a trend-setter in her own right. This fall, whether going for tall or short, heeled or flat, over-the-knee or just under it, forget trends and, like Streisand, let your inner instinct be your guide in picking up a pair of boots, be they city suede or country leather.

1. manolo blahnik Manolo Blahnik’s Brunchilee boot is the perfect shade for fall, and the perfect shape no matter what the season; $1,195. 2. jimmy choo You’ll be head over heels for Jimmy Choo’s over-the-knee April boot in black suede—a staple that’s sure to make a statement; $1,395. 3. stuart weitzman This fall, Stuart Weitzman opened a new flagship store in Manhattan, at 675 Fifth Avenue, where you’ll find fashion-forward footwear like this calf leather lace-up bootie with buckle detail; $595. 4. j.crew J.Crew’s boots come in an affordable array of styles and fashions, from suedes and leathers to cowgirl and riding styles. This short Billie boot with buckle goes great with jeans or adds some flair to fall skirts; $265. 5. hunter boot Not just for wellies: Hunter Boot has rolled out an impressive line of boots for all fashions, like this Dallin tall boot, with backside lacing; $425. 6. louis vuitton You’ll feel fit for a trip to Paris in Louis Vuitton’s Seine flat high boot; $1,280.

FA L L 2 0 1 1 /

Q31

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

LINGERIE

Under It All Sophia Loren, an Italian actress recognized for her Mediterranean look, said, “Everything you see, I owe to spaghetti.” With her womanly figure, she was the definition of sensuality on set, as first seen in 1953 in the film Aida. Loren’s curves were complemented by body-conscious clothing, or less; even when dressed in lingerie, she was the picture of confidence. This fall, wear lace under layers for a feeling of femininity reminiscent of Loren’s. Look to Agent Provocateur, Elle Macpherson Intimates, or La Perla for a little something to warm in the cooling temperatures.

1. hanro This Swedish brand delivers country charm reinterpreted with cool city chic with its wool-and-silk blend ribbed top—thigh-high socks are optional. $100. 2. Elle macpherson intimates Who better than a supermodel to design lingerie? Macphearson’s eponymous line features the Dantelle set in jet black and green. $65 (bra), $30 (culotte). 3. agent provocateur Delicate French daisy lace is paired with sleek satin in the tempting “Edith” set, with strategically placed bows and sassy criss-cross detailing. $190 (bra), $290 (brief). 4. hanky panky The signature lace cheeky hipster, shown in Lapis Blue and Imperial Purple, will give any backside a boost with its flattering cut. $32. 5. la perla Reminiscent of fall foliage, the Ingenue bra and brief is begging for a romp in a pile of leaves. $225 (bra), $115 (brief).

Q32

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

“An extraordinary experience…” — Cate Blanchett Academy Award-winning actress

“A mesmerizing performance...” — Donna Karan Creator of DKNY

“A marvelous evening… I am completely enchanted.” — Her Royal Highness Princess Michael of Kent

“Truly nourishes and lifts the spirit.” — Stephen L. Norris

REVIVING 5,000 YEARS OF CIVILIZATION.

Co-founder of The Carlyle Group

“Elegant and very athletic, very skilled.” — John McColgan Riverdance Producer

Jan 11-15, 2012

Lincoln Center David H. Koch Theater

ALL-NEW 2012 SHOW WITH LIVE ORCHESTRA

ShenYun2012.com

HOTLINE: 800-818-2393 ShenYun2012.com Presented by Shen Yun Promotions International

*All individuals’ quotes originally published by The Epoch Times and New Tang Dynasty Television.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

ACCESSORIES

2 1. bulgari Serpente Belt in green karung skin with snake head closure in light gold and enamel with malachite eyes; $550. 2. kendall conrad The Maja cuffs with solid brass rings and African bell closure, in black and brandy; $175 each. 3. J.CREW Leather fedora in battered dark rust; $275. 4. louis vuitton A fashionable way to travel the world: the silk twill Monogram Map Square in prune; $445. 5. tory burch Pack your treasures in the Robinson tiny zip jewelry case in French red; $65. 6. asprey Asprey’s Pimlico clutch mini in biscuit calf is the perfect size, shape, and color; $1,350. 7. roger vivier Find out what the French and fashionistas everywhere are raving about with the Miss X coated canvas wallet with zipper closure; $395.

Top It All Off 3

“You walked into the party like you were walking onto a yacht/ Your hat strategically dipped below one eye, your scarf it was apricot,” sang Carly Simon, in her hit song “You’re so Vain” (1973). And, while there’s no need to be vain about it, you should look your best this fall. Why not walk into the party in J.Crew’s leather hat dipped below one eye, or in Louis Vuitton’s silk twill Monogram Map scarf in plum (not apricot)? Kendall Conrad’s cuff bracelets are the chicest and sturdiest we’ve seen. Speaking of chic things to tie it all together, is there anything better than Bulgari’s green skin belt with that fabulous snake head closure? With accessories like these, it’s time to take a cue from Carly, and make this about you.

Q34

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

ACCESSORIES

Final Touches James Dean appeared in a Pepsi-Cola commercial, launching a career that would include, among other things, roles in the popular films East of Eden (1955) and Rebel Without a Cause (1955). Before he was one of the coolest actors to swagger onto the silver screen, Dean—the epitome of all-American cool—was a varsity athlete from Indiana. You can achieve Dean’s polished look with any of these stylish finds for the well-dressed man, from David Yurman’s statement belt buckles to Montblanc’s delicious timepiece in chocolate brown. Your laptop will go unnoticed in Louis Vuitton’s Nomade leather porte-documents, and winter winds can be kept at bay under the brushed alpaca hat from GANT by Michael Bastian—who, like Dean, couldn’t be cooler if he tried.

4 1. asprey A simple, classic way to carry your keys is with Asprey’s disc keyring in sterling silver (engravable); $125. 2. david yurman The black diamond Sea Urchin belt buckle ($950) and Color Change garnet belt buckle ($900) are a subtly sophisticated staple for your wardrobe. 3. montblanc The Timewalker GMT in chocolate brown with stainless-steel case, brown dial, and brown alligator strap; $3,630. 4. louis vuitton Large enough to fit your laptop, but neat enough to keep it chic: Louis Vuitton’s Nomade “Voyage” porte-documents; $4,000. 5. bulgari Get wrapped up in Bulgari’s Time Chevron scarf in Bordeaux fine wool and silk; $250. 6. tiffany & co. Tiffany dopp kit in cognac grain leather ($475) and belted men’s navy and cognac gloves ($295). 7. gant by michael bastian Brushed alpaca hat in dark gray; $145.

FA L L 2 0 1 1 /

Q35

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

SUNGLASSES

4 3

5 1. bulgari Bulgari’s beautiful Monete sunglasses in black acetate; $330. 2. anne fontaine The Audrey sunglasses—enough said; $350. 3. bottega veneta The BV-165S are available at Bottega Veneta shops; $425. 4. balenciaga Balenciaga’s BAL-0105S are available in select Solstice stores. 5. prada Prada’s 32N sunglasses are cool in blue, at Prada or Sunglass Hut; $250. 6. marc jacobs The MJ-367S are available in select Solstice stores; $325. 7. gucci The GG3190S are available in select Solstice stores; $275. 8. alexander mcqueen The AMQ-4167S; $325 at SOLSTICEsunglasses.com. 9. dolce & gabanna Dolce & Gabbana Lace Sunglasses, DG 4111; $260.

Fall Shades Brigitte Bardot made a career out of being a blonde bombshell. In spite of the fame and fortune that could have brought her anywhere in the world, she loved to relish the spotlight closer to home, in St.-Tropez. Bardot was the best at glamming it up, whether she was in a simple bikini or playing the actress, wrapped up in a cowl and some cool shades. This fall, when grabbing for your turtleneck, don’t forget to reach for a pair of any of these sunglasses—which even Brigitte might be envious of.

Q36

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

Mark Edward Partners an insurance brokerage firm founded upon the core values of innovation, service and trust.

505 park avenue new york, ny 10022 212.355.5005 440 royal palm way palm beach, fl 33480 561.655.0557

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

“There was never any intention on my part either in my acting or in my private life to create any such thing as ‘an image.’” That was Doris Day, late in her career, musing on just what the hell had happened, and how indeed she’d been “cast” as an uptight “eternal virgin,” despite a career and a personal life that indicated no such thing. Doris Day’s career—her “image” if you will—has been one of the most grievously misinterpreted in Hollywood history. Perhaps only Mary Pickford was so similarly skewered by future generations, who knew her only through photos and the myth that she “always played children.” Miss Day, at

Living Legend Doris Day

Q38

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

Liz Smith

her peak, was, if not the polar opposite of what she came to represent in the 1960s and beyond, certainly a female role model with more independent grit and genuine feminist virtues than she is given credit. There were two great blondes in 1950s Hollywood— Marilyn Monroe, who exploded to prominence in 1952, and Doris Day, who had already been a hot band singer, a recording star, and a movie star since 1945. (Her first film was 1948’s Romance on the High Seas.) Monroe was explosively publicized as a great sex symbol, but as it turned out, she was a comedienne performing a dazzling parody of glamour—oozy and luscious and over-thetop; a sweet cartoon with a disturbingly ungirdled body and

Doris Day was born in Cincinatti, Ohio, on April 3, 1924. > Opposite: Day starred with Rock Hudson in Pillow Talk (1959), a film about a man and a woman who share a telephone line.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

Over the course of her career, Doris Day recorded more than 650 songs with Columbia Records, including 47 hit singles in the U.S. > Inset: Day starred with James Stewart in The Man Who Knew Too Much (1956), directed by Alfred Hitchcock. "Whatever Will Be, WIll Be (Que Sera, Sera)," performed by Day in the film, won an Academy Award for Best Original Song. > Opposite: Day played the lead in Billy Rose's Jumbo (1962).

a vague air of despair. She played showgirls and gold-diggers. She was deeply neurotic and generally disrespected by the industry. Miss Day was something else altogether. She had honed her magnificent voice with Les Brown and His Band of Renown, and her hit records had led to a movie contract with Warner Bros. where she quickly became a very big star. She played show biz hopefuls, nostalgic heroines, the patient wives of impatient men or lovers— Tea for Two, By The Light of the Silvery Moon, Lullaby of Broadway, and On Moonlight Bay. Doris inherited the spunky mantle of another musical blonde, Betty Grable. (To this day, film fans battle over who was the greater box-office star. Day has the edge, but not by much.) Like Betty, Doris was independent and nobody’s fool.

Q40

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

She was never dumb, and rarely even naïve. She almost always worked for a living and was never indolent or bored or aimless. What Day had that Grable didn’t was an edgy little something else, below–the–surface sunshine. Nothing about Miss Grable suggested inner turmoil, but Doris Day did. It wasn’t falling– all–over–the–place neurosis, it was that catch in her voice when confronted or (as in the silly plots of some of her films) finds out she has been tricked. It’s an inevitably-hurt-butdon’t-push-me-around quality. By the time she became a movie star she’d been twice married and divorced. She knew from hurt and it hadn’t stopped her. (Day would marry twice more, to Marty Melcher who would manage and ultimately mismanage her fortune, and then to a man named Barry Comden, who probably came along too late.) And, she was sexy. Doris had a great, athletic body, and “the best ass in show business" as connoisseur Clark Gable observed. She had a figure that both men and women admired— not too much of anything, and admirably toned. And then there was that voice. When she spoke, there was urgency in her lighthearted enthusiasm, and even more when she was required to go dramatic. But her singing voice was unquestionably sensual. It was surely this mellow instrument that caused Korea’s G.I.’s in 1950 to vote her their favorite star. (When, at the climax of Romance on the High Sea, she launches into “It’s Magic,” abandoning herself to “You speak and I hear violins…,” she raises goosebumps.) Pert nose and famous freckles be damned! When Doris Day sang, she was the girl next door you wanted to sleep with—a lot! And when she sang “Secret Love” in character as tomboyish Calamity Jane, she was the girl next door many girls wanted to sleep with. (“Secret Love” was a theme for gays in the unenlightened 1950’s.)

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

Doris Day, née Doris Mary Ann Kappelhoff, adopted her professional name at the suggestion of musician Barney Rapp. When she auditioned to be his vocalist, she chose to sing, "Day After Day." > Opposite: Portraits of Day showcase the characters she played in the movie musicals of the 1950s and the sex comedies of the early '60s, including Romance on the High Seas (1948) (first row, right) and Lucky Me (1954) (second row, center).

Her recording career would offer 28 best-selling albums for Columbia Records. As her star rose, Warner Bros. allowed her heavier material, most famously, Love Me or Leave Me, the musical biopic based on the life of singer Ruth Etting. Despite the confines of a script and an era that did not allow anything too gritty, Day expertly conveys Etting's ambition and her ambivalence to a relationship with Moe “The Gimp” Snyder, her manager and husband (a brilliant James Cagney). Her best moment comes after Cagney has essentially raped her into marriage. They are backstage in the dressing room. Cagney is boasting about the great deal he has made for her. Day is unimpressed. “Would it be too much to show some enthusiasm?” he asks. Without looking up, Day mutters, “What do you want, a thank-you note?” It is presumptuous to assume, but we must—is this a scene she played in her own life, and why she gave it her all?

Q42

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

She was frantic but strong in Hitchcock’s The Man Who Knew Too Much in which she introduced “Que Sera, Sera.” (The movie version of the song is much stronger—she is singing to save her child.) And even more frantic (and stronger!) in Julie in which she is tormented by a crazed Louis Jordan and—as an airline stewardess—must land a pilot-less plane. Day was the first of many airborne women-in-jeopardy to take control, 30,000 feet above the ground. Day enjoyed her greatest musical role in the screen version of Broadway’s big hit, The Pajama Game as a factory worker/ union rabble-rouser. In the same year—1957—Day co-starred with Clark Gable in Teacher’s Pet. She teaches journalism (daughter of a famous editor). He is a cynical reporter. They meet, they clash, he tricks her (the usual romantic-comedy ploy), they reconcile. But in many ways, Teacher’s Pet is Day’s most well-rounded portrait of the woman she had come to represent onscreen. And it is not even a terribly glamorous representation, filmed in realistic black and white. In Teacher’s Pet, she clearly finds Gable’s character attractive. There’s no sense she would not sleep with him, or that she has not slept with other men, but…she will do it on her terms and when she is sure of his character. Day rises above all the clichés of the genre—she is so appealing, intelligent, good-looking. And her “rival” in the film is Marilyn Monroe-wannabe, Mamie Van Doren. When Day gently mocks Van Doren’s nightclub musical number with her own subtler version, she gives a lesson in how less is so much more! With Miss Day at her personal best in Teacher’s Pet, it is with some wariness we approach Pillow Talk, a movie (for Universal, where she would reign for a while) that placed her in an even more valuable category than she had occupied previously. Paired for the first time with Rock Hudson, Day plays a crisp, successful, single, interior decorator who is forced to share a telephone line with lothario Hudson. She is offended by him, he is intrigued by her, and the usual complications and deceptions ensue. Day is excellent, as is Hudson, and the film was a huge hit—the biggest of her career. But, sun-worshipper Day was now well into her thirties (and given a lot of help with soft-focus lensing). Her character’s repulsion at Hudson’s womanizing seemed at odds with Day’s own vibe, which was hardly frigid, and yet she is required to be alternately starchy

or coy (when she finally gives into her attraction). Also, as an independent single woman, are we expected to believe she has never encountered a crude man, or that she has never been with a man? The script doesn’t enlighten, but somehow, and suddenly, Doris Day’s screen image changed from a strong woman to a punch-line—“I knew Doris Day before she was a virgin,” as Oscar Levant remarked. (Interestingly, Marilyn Monroe very much wanted Pillow Talk, but no producer saw her playing a successful career woman. Instead she did Some Like Hot, which had its reward at the box office, but cemented her dizzy, over-voluptuous image.) For the next five years, Doris Day would be worth more than ever at the box office, with films such as Please Don’t Eat The Daises, Midnight Lace, Lover Come Back, That Touch of Mink, Send Me No Flowers, and Do Not Disturb. In most of these films, Day was a married woman or a widow—clearly, she was no virgin! (In Midnight Lace, she was terrorized by

Q44

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

hubby Rex Harrison, but she is not at her best falling apart— even dressed to the chattering teeth by Irene.) Despite the success of her movies, the conventions of the “sex-comedy” were not giving the actress much to do, though she performed with vigor. Times were changing—film critics were more critical, and eventually, Day’s audience stayed home to watch TV. The newer moviegoers had no use for Day, who seemed to be trying too hard in her final movies—with “mod” clothes and spy plots and even more careful photography when the camera came close. Doris Day would end her great movie career in 1968, starring in With Six You Get Egg Roll (widow and widower meet, fall in love, and have problems with their children). She had turned down Mike Nichols’ (perhaps only-semiserious) offer to appear as Mrs. Robinson in The Graduate. A good thing, too.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

Doris Day played the leading role in Calamity Jane (1953), with Howard Keel cast as her romantic interest, Wild Bill Hickok. The song "Secret Love," sung by Day in the feature, won an Academy Award for Best Original Song. > Opposite, from left: Day in My Dream is Yours (1949); and Lullaby of Broadway (1951); > Insets, from left to right: Day in It's A Great Feeling (1949); and The Thrill of It All (1963).

S T Y L E

Clockwise, from top left: Day was recognized for her wholesome image; Day prepares to perform a song—her first hit single was "Sentimental Journey" (1945); On film, Day frequently played opposite a single romantic interest. Off film, she married four times, with three of her husbands members of the entertainment industry. > Opposite: Day, often labeled as "virginal," led a life that differed from the general perception of her personality.

The Doris Day of 1957 would have nailed it. The Doris Day of ’68 would have been a stunt, obliterating the rest of Nichols' groundbreaking movie. There would be a popular five-season TV series that she really didn’t want to do (a legacy of Marty Melcher’s mishandling of her affairs), some specials, an increase in her life-long devotion to animal causes, the death of her only child, music producer Terry Melcher, and over the past 10 years, an increasing interest in her life and career, both of which were far more complex than they appear at first glance. She was the subject of a massive biography by David Kaufmann, and an intense, detailed, and appreciative book on her movie career by Thomas Santopietro. She has become somewhat reclusive, declining invitations

Q46

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

to accept awards, although she made an exception for the 1989 Golden Globe ceremony, appearing onstage for her Cecil B. Demille Lifetime Achievement recognition. She has written her biography, but remains elusive. Day received only one Oscar nomination, for Pillow Talk, a performance that no matter how entertaining it is, does not even come close to her work in Love me or Leave Me, Calamity Jane, The Man Who Knew Too Much, The Pajama Game, or Teacher’s Pet. Hell, it’s not even as good as Young At Heart or her very first dramatic role in Young Man with a Horn. (Faithful and true to Kirk Douglas, who dallies with sexually confused Lauren Bacall.) But, that’s Hollywood— and Day was much loved in the industry. Perhaps her wildly successful recording career was a distraction to voters?

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

Now, because she refuses to appear—at age 87—on an Oscar telecast, the great new minds at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences refuse to honor this box-office champ and legend with a well-deserved Honorary Oscar. It is unlikely that Day cares, at all. If asked if she even wanted to be honored, she would probably say no, whether or not her presence was required. But people who love movies and music and talent and professionalism care. Doris Day deserves the respect of an industry for which she made millions. She already has the respect and love of the millions she entertained. She deserves a heartfelt thank-you note, in the shape of a little golden guy. Get with it, Oscar. And Miss Day—officially and for all time, it says so on boxoffice records—you are the greatest star by far. u

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

Fashion On The Farm

Daniel Cappello

and

Elizabeth Meigher

photographed by

Hannah Thomson

On a crisp, sunny morning, four ladies gather at Smithfield Farms, the private estate of Karen and John Klopp, in the heart of Millbrook horse country. On this day, this group of good friends—representing four different decades of stylish and substantial women, from their 20s to their 50s—have come together to show off some of fall’s best fashions as only they can. From getting ready to trot and ride in the likes of Ralph Lauren and J.Crew, to dressing up in evening looks by everyone from Valentino to J. Mendel, here are four fabulous women: the aspiring actress Kick Kennedy; clothing designer and blogger Nicole Mellon; TV producer Hilary Dick; and documentary producer, What2WearWhere.com founder, and lifelong conservationist Karen Klopp. u

Q48

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

Nicole Mellon wears a shirt by Ralph Lauren Blue Label and a blue cashmere ruffle wrap by Magaschoni. Her amethyst ring is by David Yurman and her necklace is by Siman Tu.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

Above, Kick Kennedy is in a Ralph Lauren cashmere poncho, Etro scarf, J.Crew pixel-dot shirt, Dior sunglasses, and Tod’s driving gloves. > At right, Karen Klopp wears Ralph Lauren Collection’s green Adele gown and J.Crew’s Figure Eight necklace; Kick is in Ralph Lauren Collection’s Harriet gown and a scarf by Etro; Nicole wears a J. Mendel dove-gray gown; and Hilary Dick wears Valentino’s navy tulle point d’esprit gown. > Below, Karen in a Ralph Lauren dress; Hilary in a Dennis Basso dress and Jimmy Choo’s Kevan heels.

FA L L 2 0 1 1 /

Q51

Here, Hilary is country chic in Ralph Lauren Blue Label’s Whitfield shirt, J.Crew’s Owen high-heel boots, and DANNIJO’s Stella necklace. > Opposite, from top: Boots by Hunter Boot stand at the ready in an interior view of the Klopp farmhouse residence at Smithfield Farms, in the Millbrook horse country of upstate New York; a sweeping view from one of the hills. Hair-styling for this shoot by Elad Ben Tov and makeup by Nikki Cullhaj, both for Valery Joseph Salon.

Q52

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

Here, Kick is in Tibi’s nude wool jersey pleated dress, Ralph Lauren Black Label’s Lizette vest, Giorgio Armani shoes, and a tassle necklace by David Yurman. At left, Nicole is in command in a shirt by Ralph Lauren Blue Label, Magaschoni’s cashmere ruffle wrap, and lace-up Lapins boots by Hunter Boot. Her amethyst ring is by David Yurman and her necklace is by Siman Tu.

FA L L 2 0 1 1 /

Q55

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

Considered by fashion designers as the original modern muse, Marisa Berenson sits casually at a desk, posing for photographer Steven Meisel.

A Modern Muse

Captured in countless editorials, model Marisa Berenson was considered by fashion designers as the original modern muse, gracing covers of top fashion and luxury magazines throughout the world during the 1960s and ’70s. In her recent book Marisa Berenson: A Life in Pictures (Rizzoli, October), intimate details of her life are shared in an introduction by European editor at large for American Vogue, Hamish Bowles, and in a revealing conversation with designer Diane von Furstenberg. Both are accompanied by a stunning collection of glamorous fashion spreads, numerous

Q56

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

Lisa Chung

magazine covers, and candid pictures shot by the industry’s leading photographers, such as Henry Clarke, Bert Stern, Irvin Penn, and Steven Meisel (guest editor of the book). These captivating images illustrate why Berenson was dubbed fashion’s “It Girl” by designer Yves Saint Laurent in the ’70s. Although Berenson once said, “I never thought of myself as a beauty,” it is clear after thumbing through this visual biography that what started out as a young girl who—like any young girl—had self doubts, was transformed into a woman who was one of the most sought-after models of her time. u

R i zzo li

Berenson in fur trappings during a shoot with photographer Steven Meisel. > Inset: the book’s cover. > Opposite: Dressed as a mermaid for a Vogue shoot with photographer

ing her the title as fashion’s “It Girl.”

R i zzo li

Henry Clarke, Berenson shows her ability to assume any character, earn-

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

FA L L 2 0 1 1 /

Q59

The New Resort Rage Resort collections used to be something of the middle child of fashion. Rolled out in between the big Fall and Spring runway shows, they tended to take place behind the scenes at ateliers and workshops, for buyers and editors only. This year, however, saw a marked change in all of that. Suddenly, Resort stepped up to center stage, with stagings just as elaborate—if not more so—than any typical Fall or Spring show. Salvatore Ferragamo débuted its glamorous Women’s Resort 2012 collection on Manhattan’s Upper East Side, in the sump-

Q60

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

Daniel Cappello

tuosly grand James B. Duke House, the former “Millionaire’s Row” home of the American Tobacco Company and Duke Power magnate. Stella McCartney, meanwhile, took a more playful approach, launching her Resort 2012 collection by throwing a garden party at St. Luke’s, in the West Village, where models showed off the fluidity of McCartney’s clothes while playing croquet and Ping-Pong. And Douglas Hannant’s Resort 2012 collection took flight from the West Side docks—at New York’s famous Intrepid battleship. Now that’s a catwalk! u

Billy Farrell for bfanyc.com / Dan Lecca / Getty

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

At right, Salvatore Ferragamo’s Creative Director, Massimiliano Giornetti, at the James B. Duke House before the Women’s Resort 2012 show. > This page and opposite: Models bring the glamour of Ferragamo’s Resort collection to life.

S T Y L E

Billy Farrell f or b f a n yc. co m / D a n Le cca / Ge tty

Clockwise from top left: Ashley Greene arrives for the Salvatore Ferragamo Women’s Resort 2012 fashion show at Manhattan’s James B. Duke House; Minka Kelly at the show; a view of the grand staircase in the center foyer of the Duke House; hat and stripes add a “seaside” touch; a model being fitted backstage; an exterior of the admirable Duke House; models descended from the staircase and walked a “blue” carpet; front row included, from left, James Ferragamo, Eva Mendes, Freida Pinto, Emma Roberts, and Stefano Tonchi.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

At left, details of Ferragamoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s navyand-white silk printed shorts and top, with metal and Swarovski bracelets. At right, large octagonal sunglasses fit for an heiress, in keeping with the collectionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s theme.

FA L L 2 0 1 1 /

Q63

Q64

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

Pa tr i c k Mc Mu lla n

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

For Resort, British fashion designer Stella McCartney (opposite page, bottom left) invited editors, buyers, and guests to a garden party at St. Luke’s, in New York’s West Village. Models set the mood for the gardenparty theme, knocking around croquet balls, playing Ping-Pong, and licking lollipops that complemented the vivid colors in McCartney’s collection. Occasion-specific concoctions, like “Stella’s Shaved Ice,” were served up, along with good old Guinness. The collection was equally whimsical and mixed, featuring Hawaiian-printed tunic tops, endlessly mixed prints, brightly colored tailored jackets, and bubble-shaped capes. Game on!

S T Y L E

Douglas Hannant (opposite page, right center) at his Resort collection show aboard the battleship Intrepid. Looks included, from left, the red matte jersey oneshoulder dress; the navy white knit-cotton short; the navy strapless silk corset gown with white floral and ostrich feather skirt; the flared blackand-white sequin tweed tank dress; and the navyand-white beaded stripe dress with ostrichfeather-trimmed sleeves.

Q66

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

D av i d Mc In ty re , co u r te sy o f D o ugl as H an n a n t

wool crepe jacket with

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

The Sport Of Kings

Horses and riders on the field for the International Polo Cup competition at Meadow Brook, Long Island, on June 13, 1914. > Inset: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Chip to Goal.â&#x20AC;? Photo by Juan Sebastian Lezica.

Q68

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

Georgina Schaeffer

L i bra r y o f C o n gre ss /a rge n ti na p o lo. co m

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

The first polo game

was played in Persia (Iran) in the 5th century B.C. Developed as a war game for elite cavalry units, a polo team had as many as 100 players. The game spread so extensively that by the Middle Ages it known from Constantinople to Japan as the “Game of Kings.” The modern game of polo, which was formalized and popularized by the British, derived from Manipur (now a state in India) and was played aboard indigenous ponies by locals. The first game of polo in the United States on record was played in 1876 at the New York Polo Grounds (although there is some evidence of earlier games in Texas). Today, polo continues all over the world. We asked some of our readers about their experiences with the sport.

S T Y L E

Nicholas Barry Occupation > Finance. What’s your first polo memory? > My first memory was watching a benefit game for a local rehabilitation hospital in my home town. The game was played on a non-regulation, small field in Western Pennsylvania, which brought the action very close to the crowd. My first playing memories are from a Rege Ludwig clinic in Charlottesville, where there’s a beautiful facility with arena and outdoor polo surrounded by the mountains. Where is your favorite place to play polo? > The Port Mayaca Polo Club, Port Mayaca, Florida.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

Favorite horse or equipment? > It’s a close tie between Iron Nina, a phenomenal, athletic small bay mare owned and trained by Mark Powers, and Preacher Man, a big bay gelding also owned by Mark Powers. Fondest polo memory? > On or off the field?

Olivia Pirovano Wirth

Daisy Prince Occupation > Writer. When did you begin playing polo? > Three summers ago. What’s your first polo memory? > My first memory of learning

Q70

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

L i bra r y o f C o n gre ss

Occupation > Consultant. When did you begin playing polo? > 2002. What is your first polo memory? > Trying to tackle the wooden horse at the Royal Berkshire Polo Club in England. Where is your favorite place to play polo? > Our farm in Pilar, Argentina. Do you have a favorite horse or piece of equiptment? > My husband’s breeding stallion, Lucero. What’s your fondest polo memory? > Watching the horses we bred play in the Argentine Open in Palermo, Buenos Aires, and watching my husband in the finals of the Queens Cup, England and just generally being in the barn and drinking!

Opposite, top: a member of the Chiangmai Team. Photo by Juan Sebastian Lezica. > This page:Two girls practice mounting a pony on a wooden polo pony, August 2, 1921. > Inset: success!

This page, clockwise from top left: the Dubai Cup trophy winners, 2009; the Cartier St. Moritz Polo World Cup on snow, 2008; Camel Polo in the Gobi Desert, Mongolia. Photo by Tom Claytor; Elephant Polo, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Moet vs. Mercedes, 2009.â&#x20AC;? Photo by Argntina Polo; polo mallets in the grass; the Roehampton Trophy, the oldest polo trophy in the United Kingdom, was originally played for at the Roehampton Club is now played for at the Ham Club. > Opposite: Polo Game, 1922.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

about polo is parents telling me about my great-great grandfathers exploits on the Myopia Hunt Field! Where is your favorite place to play? > Newport. Do you have a favorite horse or piece of equiptment? > A pony named Pepper and the boots I got made in Argentina with my initials on them. (So wonderfully pompous on someone who has a negative handicap.) What is your favorite polo memory? > Scoring a goal at the end of a summer of playing in Newport and then driving to Bailey’s Beach for a swim in the ocean followed by a large Beachcomber. I felt magnificent for the rest of the afternoon.

Sam Ramirez Jr.

of the most exciting, physically demanding, and challenging in the world. The first time I figured out how to ride a horse and hit the ball at the same time is my first polo memory. At first, I knew how to hit a ball, but didn’t know how to ride. When that finally came together was a great feeling. Where is your favorite place to play? > My farm, Haviland Hollow Polo Club (nycpolo.com), but of course... Do you have any favorite horses or equipment? > I have many favorite horses at this point. Without five to eight good horses, it is hard to compete in this sport. Among them, Tequila, a Kentucky thoroughbred I bought as a three-year-old, and have now owned for seven years, is one of my top ponies. My favorite piece of equipment are Nano’s polo mallets and we keep Vita Coco beverages on ice during the game. What’s your fondest polo memory? > My fondest memories this season were winning the 12-14 goal Masters Cup and the 4-goal Amateurs Cup both at the Haviland Hollow Polo Club with the Omega/Haviland Hollow Polo Team.

a rg e n ti n ap o lo. co m / Li bra r y o f C o n gre ss

Occupation > Finance. When did you begin playing polo? > In 1999, I took my first lesson and I started playing 2000. Presently, I’m rated 2-goals. What’s your first polo memory? > I’ve played many sports at a very competitive level my whole life and feel that Polo is one

S T Y L E

FA L L 2 0 1 1 /

Q73

Bruce Colley Occupation > Restaurant Business. When did you begin playing polo? > I started when I was 14 years old with Pony Club and then went on to the Cornell Polo Team for first real competitions! Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s your first polo memory? > Playing with my father and brothers on the farm. Where is your favorite place to play polo? > I have three: Mashomack Polo Club in Pine Plains, New York; Chantilly, France; and anywhere in Argentina. Do you have a favorite horse or piece of equipment? > Baja, an Argentine Buckskin. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s your fondest polo memory? > Playing Polo with Prince Harry against Prince Charles Team at Guards Polo Club, Windsor Castle, and being presented trophy by the Queen! u

Q74

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

This page: Female polo players, April 1924. > Top inset, polo player, M.J. Waterbury. > Bottom inset, Brazilian fashion model and polo player, Paula Chermont. > Opposite:

L i bra r y o f C o n gre ss /P ub li c L i b rar y

muddy boots and protective kneepads.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

A Stylish Tale by

K at h ry n B o h a n n o n

I was at a dinner party on the Alster during my second month or so in Deutschland. It was Classic Hamburg: the understated pedigree set. Naturally, everyone had lived in New York City or London, and eventually returned to Hamburg. Everyone knew English, German, and usually Spanish. Gauging by the way they dressed, they probably knew one or two other languages. And I, not wanting to be identified as another unilingual American, used this chance to debut my recently acquired Goethe-Institut Deutsche sprachkenntnisse. There were a lot of hand gestures required to get across the gist of what I was so earnestly trying to say. And it turns out, it was a bit too much, as my weinschorle (spritzer) splashed on the jacket of the girl I was talking to. And what a jacket it was. With her courteous “it’s all right” nod, she graciously excused herself—with me chasing after her and resorting to “sorry” of various forms in my mother tongue. There is nothing like a bit of time fighting out a stain in the toilette to bring ladies several degrees closer. And, it was then that I got to truly observe her jacket. Reminiscent of Austrian-German Tracht, it was a statement:

Q76

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

This page: The tale begins when this writer, an American, arrives in Hamburg to findâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and fall in love withâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;German style.

This page, left: Kathryn Bohannon wears a dress and jacket from Meier from Hamburg. > Inset: Bohannon found the company through a chance meeting with the designers at a dinner party on the Alster. She is planning to import the German designs to the U.S. next season. > Opposite: The idea for importing the pieces came after a visit to the company atelier—along with her own love of the collection. For more information on Meier from Hamburg, contact kpbohannon@gmail.com.

culturally (and intellectually and traditionally) sexy, the jacket successfully lured the mind, as well as the eyes. After learning that it was her own design, I asked like a five-year-old girl if I could somehow have one too. She said she could make one for me (joy!) and we re-integrated the dinner party. Felix, my escort that evening —and now my husband—was keeping a distant eye on me. I was doing my best, mumbling along with my Dinglish. And shortly, the same face from the spilled drink incident walks by. Another jacket—just as fabulous. Same girl, new jacket? New girl, same jacket? Either way, what a delicious piece of clothing. The less verbal competence one has, the more visually observational one becomes. Again, like the five-year-old child overwhelmed by the adults’ conversation, I withdrew and amused myself with the simple pleasure of people watching. An introduction interrupted my solitude. The same-face-girl was making an effort with the neukommer. Hamburgers might be terribly understated and reserved, but they certainly give everyone a good chance. Genuinely befuddled, I tried to differentiate the expressions, voice, and tone from the girl with whom I had already “bonded.” I hung in there, and after a minute or two, I deciphered the last word: zwilinge (twins). I still can’t differentiate who I had met first and who was wearing which jacket, but several days later, Claudi and Tini took me to their atelier to show me their fabrics and styles and how each piece was made by hand. It was a truly enlightening excursion to see how each cut and garment partnered up and to watch the pieces run the fine line of tradition and modernity, of subtlety and statement, of Europe and the U.S. And for me, there was more of a rush of pleasure choosing a vest that day than any bag from the French sellerie. The piece was not overtly sultry or in your face, but discreetly, traditionally, originally sexy—more style, perhaps, than fashion, and in true German form, built for the long term. It was a piece that quietly made itself the centerpiece of my wardrobe. u

Q78

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

Yelling For Yellow >

Daniel Cappello

and

Elizabeth Meigher

Angel Sanchez

Shades Of Spring

Q80

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

September always means coming back: back from the beach, back to school, and back to fall. It also marks the beginning of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York, and, this year, we had fun from the runways soaking up all the trends for next spring. From pleats and rounded shoulders to â&#x20AC;&#x2122;20s flapper styles and lots of zigzags, spring looks were varied and playful. But perhaps most pleasing of all were the ever-soothing shades of spring, from sherberts and pastels to pale neutrals and tonals. Here, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve gathered some of the lightest and brightest shades that will flatter any girl come spring. u

Blue All Over > From blue-print dresses to tops, pants, skirts, and bottoms, blue could be spotted just Re b e c c a Ta y l o r

Ti b i

E l i e Ta h a r i

about everywhere.

< Yelling For Yellow Spring is all about yellow, from tulips to buttercups. And, on the run-

Ti b i

Y i g a l A z ro u e l

C a ro l i n a H e r re ra

ways, yellows were a ray of light.

Going Gray > Gray, as designers for spring proved, doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to be drab, especially C a r o l i n a H e r r e ra

Dennis Basso

for evening.

Re b e c c a Ta y l o r

when it sparkles

< Orange Peels From more muted mustard tones to brighter tangerines, designers delighted in

Ti b i

Le l a Ro s e

E l i e Ta h a r i

an homage to orange.

White Out > The color that’s never out of season— white—made its way down the catwalk in the every form from

J. Mendel

Ra l p h L a u re n

Marchesa

feathers to pant suits.

< Going Green The green movement isn’t over, as spring runways proved. From

C a r o l i n a H e r re r a

Lu c u Lu c a

Y i g a l A z ro u e l

kelly to chartreuse, green, it seems, is it.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

E l i e Ta h a r i

< White Out

FA L L 2 0 1 1 /

Q83

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

The Woman Behind The Great AHA! by

Helena Kha zanova photographed by

Alexis Theodoracopulos

There is something magical about Shauna Mei’s airy, all-white loft space that’s nestled above Bond Street. This former home is now the offices of her rapidly growing lifestyle company, AHALife, which she founded less than a year ago, but took a lifetime to mastermind. The great “Aha!” moment is a sudden burst of inspiration, a bit of luck, and a small drop of magic. It is an instant of clarity that does not come too often, but when it does it should be seized, which is exactly what Shauna did when she launched her revolutionary online company, a place where content meets commerce across all areas of life. My first impression when I step off the elevator is that I’ve entered into a shop of curiosities that is, instead of old and musty, chic, eclectic, and utterly modern. Everything in this space tells

Q84

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

Following a career in finance, Shauna Mei founded AHALife, a consumer website that allows tastemakers to curate products. The company is less than a year old, and already popular.

Above: ABT cruelty-free beauty brushes, $179 per set at ahalife.com. Below: The AHALife team, many of whom attended MIT like founder Shauna Mei, was photographed in the company’s offices above Bond Street. > Opposite: A set of shelves at AHALife displays a variety of products offered on the company’s Web site, including a set of Pop Art plates and a white-ceramic beverage dispenser with spigot—all of which have been selected by tastemakers.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

a story and posseses a quirky sense of style. There is a long white table reminiscent of “The Last Supper,” a huge mirror lit up by a string of lights, and colorful pieces of Heart Collage prints by Eric Telchin that, in addition to adding splashes of color to the office walls, are also for sale on the website. There is a seemingly endless supply of things to look at. Large white shelves in the back room display an array of objects, ranging from artisanal maple syrup in thick glass containers to a pair of funky tea wood sunglasses made by W/SüN (Waiting For The Sun), to a remarkable projection light by Adam Frank that illuminates the wall with an image of what seems like a window with shadows of shimmering trees. A sleek little gadget to be appreciated by New Yorkers who could benefit from a repose from the view of neighboring buildings and endless cityscapes. One of Shauna’s associates periodically disappears behind the back door, bringing out more and more products and packag-

S T Y L E

es—all different colors, shapes, and forms. One can spend hours looking through this stuff. Touching, smelling, and discovering, I feel like I am in heaven. It, as Shauna puts it, “brings the best of the world to your doorstep.” And I cannot agree more. Looking through these products that I hardly knew existed thirty minutes ago, I find myself suddenly dying to have them. I am especially taken with an exquisitely made jewelry line, James Banks. Its butterfly pendants resemble an actual species of Buckeye butterflies and have intricate wings that can be worn either opened or closed. Made from gold, copper, and sterling silver, each pendant comes in its own delicate cocoon-like metal case that fits into a small wooden box. They are so wonderfully whimsical; I can already imagine wearing them. Growing up in Communist China, Shauna’s passion for collecting began early in life. Her father, a visiting scholar whose nature of work gave him the rare opportunity to travel outside FA L L 2 0 1 1 /

Q87

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

of the country, would return home bearing colorful gifts and souvenirs from around the world. A rare glimpse of the outside in what she describes as “a country of grey uniforms.” It was these gifts that kindled her early passion of collecting. Having moved with her family to the U.S. after the Tiananmen Square Massacre in 1989, Shauna grew up in Seattle before attending MIT, graduating with degrees in electrical engineering and computer science with a concentration in artificial intelligence. “I am a futurist,” she says brightly. After completing her impressive degrees, Shauna joined Goldman Sachs and later co-founded a luxury investment group that helps brands expand globally. Then, she left to become a COO of Aramson, a Swedish activewear company. Coming from a position of extensive knowledge in the field and recognizing the huge impact of the luxury industry, she nevertheless found it unproductive and decided to do something about it.

Noble maple syrup by Mikuni Wild Harvest, $49.90 per bottle at ahalife. com. > Opposite: Founder Shauna Mei reviews a mother-of-pearl inlay clutch by Serpui Marie ($550 at ahalife.com) at her desk as two members of her staff look on. Her success is a result of her sense of style, as well as of her entrepreneurial spirit and finance experience.

“I have this gene in me, I have a ferocious passion to change the world,” she says, recounting the moment that started it all. In her “Aha!” moment, Shauna decided to create something she calls a “buy-button for lifestyle,” and without stopping, she chose to make it about conscious consumption as well, something that is beyond just “organic and sustainable.” In addition to making products available to the world in a matter of minutes, carrying a positive message, and being environmentally conscious, her model gives lesser-known

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

designers a chance to break into the market. “It is a demand-based model,” she says. “Opposite of retail inefficiency where the inventory is held, it is real-time giving of livelihood, money, and jobs. It creates massive impact.” Here, big impact and good karma go hand-in-hand. Making a difference at home and abroad, the products speak for themselves: a collection of silk scarves, Lauren Pierce, created by Lauren Bush, features hand-dyed fabrics by women of the Democratic Republic of Congo, providing them with profits from halfway around the world; and illuminated dog leashes by Pup Crawl donates a portion of all sales to a local animal shelter. It is the best of both worlds, really—shopping and helping the world at the same time. “This makes the word feel small, but still chic and fashionable,” Shauna agrees. It seems that AHALife has it all: beautiful objects, good causes, easy access, and there is yet another aspect that sets

S T Y L E

it apart—one more delightful element. The contents of the site are carefully curated on a daily basis by the world’s respected tastemakers whose advice I would gladly take any day. Coming from different backgrounds and various fields, they all have a common thread—they share passion, experience, and live in all parts of the world, giving them the ability to explore for products globally. And ours is a time when the search for authenticity and uniqueness is at its pinnacle; we want things that are not only unusual, but that possess the feel of different places, diverse cultures, and other worlds. It is a modern way of assembling our own private lifestyle collection that is reflective of personal taste and unique personalities. In the frantic pace of everyday life, oversaturated markets, and a maze of online shopping, it is refreshing and uplifting to have all the work expertly done for you. All there is left for you to do is sign up. u FA L L 2 0 1 1 /

Q89

Charlotte Ronson encourages models wearing different looks from her Spring 2012 collection before her show on Septetmber 19 at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

Backstage Pass: Charlotte Ronson by

Elizabeth Quinn Brown

photographed by

Harry Benson

FA L L 2 0 1 1 /

Q91

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

Clockwise from top left: Models entertain themselves backstage at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week; a manicure is prepared for the runway; models in line, wearing floral-patterned pieces. > Opposite, clockwise from top left: Charlotte Ronson organizes everything backstage; Annabelle Dexter-Jones, Charlotte Ronsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s half-sister, showcases a hot pink choker on the runway at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

Q92

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

“Being a twin, it’s so important to have your own identity,” says Charlotte Ronson, explaining how she was drawn to fashion design. “I remember discovering vintage pieces, everything being so one-of-a-kind. Even if it was just a leather jacket, but one that’s been worn for 15 years.” There is, indeed, something to admire about anything that is stretched—challenged—over the years, whether it’s an article of clothing, or a brand. Charlotte Ronson’s company, introduced in 2000 as “C. Ronson,” has evolved from a “knit-driven line with rompers” into a more refined “Charlotte Ronson,” as it was renamed in 2005. And with collaborations like “Play by C. Ronson Collection” for Urban Outfitters and “I Heart Ronson for JCPenney,” the company is, certainly, one-of-a-kind: authentic, and marketable to a range of consumers. The trajectory of Charlotte Ronson’s brand speaks to her personal involvement, as well as her role embodying its playful cool. What else ensures her success? “Coffee, lots and lots of lattes—basic, non-fat” and mixes compiled by her sister, a DJ, that serve as soundtracks to different seasons. “I’m always proud when I see someone wearing my clothes,” the designer shares. “And I love showing up at the tents.” u

Q94

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

Charlotte Ronson and her half-sister, Annabelle DexterJones, pose for family friend Harry Benson after the show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. > Opposite: Blue looks in a row, backstage (top); a model wearing a crop top and striped shorts from Charlotte Ronsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Spring 2012 collection.

S T Y L E

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

C O A S T T O C O A S T N E W YO R K

Q Focus 1

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

C O A S T T O C O A S T N E W YO R K

b illy f a rre ll a ge n cy

Manhattan During Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Marche-

sa celebrated its Spring 2012 collection with a cocktail reception hosted by co-founders Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig. The festive affair took place at PH-D at the Dream Downtown, overlooking the sparkling city. Guests, including Camilla Belle, Emma Roberts, and Rachel Zoe, indulged in glasses of Dom Pérignon to unwind from a week at the tents. Partygoers were treated to a lifesize 3D display of the runway show, as well as a preview of “tech art” laptops designed exclusively for HP by Marchesa.

1. Keren Craig, Nur Khan, and Georgina Chapman 2. Ken Downing 3. Sky Nellor and Rachel Sheedy 4. Brooke Geahan and Vikram Chatwal 5. Amanda Hearst 6. Jeann Williams

FA L L 2 0 1 1 /

Q97

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

COAST TO COAST ENGLAND

Q Focus 1

2 3

Q98

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

COAST TO COAST ENGLAND

C o u r te sy o f Ro b e r to C a va lli

London

The opening of Roberto Cavalli’s location was the perfect excuse for a party, drawing revelers from Europe and beyond. The evening began at the store, from where guests were shuttled (via Bentley!) to the Battersea Power Station. The landmark was transformed for the occasion, decorated like an Italian garden with an array of burlesque and acrobatic acts. Guests such as Rosario Dawson, Eva Herzigova, Pixie Lott, and Bianca Jagger (decked in Roberto Cavalli) enjoyed the fashion house’s own vodka during a night of excitement and whimsy —a true homage to the fantastical brand.

1. Yasmin 2. Sunday Girl 3. Edie Campbell 4. Robert Konjic and Julia Restoin Roitfeld 5. Ana Araujo, Ronnie Wood, and Bianca Jagger 6. Dasha Zhukova and Derek Blasberg 7. Tali Lennox 8. Eva Herzigova

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

C O A S T T O C O A S T N E W YO R K

Q Focus 1

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

C O A S T T O C O A S T N E W YO R K

Pa trick M cM u lla n

Manhattan

A day after meeting Michelle Obama and accepting the National Design Award’s Fashion Award at the Smithsonian Cooper-Hewitt Museum, Gilles Mendel debuted J. Mendel’s Spring 2012 collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. There was much to celebrate about the runway show—airy, sophisticated pieces with bold color panels and dashes of fur—and celebrate they did, at Gramercy Terrace at the Gramercy Park Hotel. Guests, including Alisa Blaginina, Selma Blair, and Julie Macklowe were among those that partied that Thursday night...and well into Friday morning.

1. Lewis Remele and Caroline Owens 2. Francesco Civetta 3. Flo Fulton and Angela Lindvall 4. Rihanna Fano, Rachel Pringle, and Alexandra Ebeling 5. Christina Civetta and Jessica Almon 6. Julie Macklowe 7. Selma Blair and Gilles Mendel 8. Jamie Tisch and Jessica Nagel

FA L L 2 0 1 1 /

Q101

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

BEAUTY

Make Me Blush

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

A runway model is styled with cosmetics from Jouer, with a look that exudes simple, effortless beauty; A few Jouer products, including a blush and a lipgloss. > Opposite: Christina Zilber, founder and creative director of Jouer, was first exposed to the world of makeup by her mother, a former model. As an adult, she is trying to provide women

Co u r te sy o f J o ue r

everywhere with a go-to brand for easy beauty.

Christina Zilber founded Jouer with the belief that every woman deserves a makeup routine that’s customized and quick. She caters to the gal-on-the-go, someone who’s naturally chic. Here, Quest speaks with Christina about her brand ... Q: What inspired you to start Jouer? A: A makeup artist once filled an empty palette with some favorite lipsticks of mine and I was hooked on makeup on the go. I loved the idea of makeup palettes but was frustrated by the limitations of product and color choice. I set about creating a line of colors sold individually, so the customer could then build into her own individualized palette. Q: What sort of customer do you cater to? A: Jouer caters to women who love natural colors, easy application and quality formulas. Most of my customers are busy women who want to look good without looking like they’re wearing a lot of makeup; they want to be fashion relevant without looking like they’re trying too hard. Q: What icons, past and present, would you imagine representing your brand? A: I’d like to think Jackie Kennedy would have worn Jouer, with her tousled hair and crooked yet charming smile. Audrey Hepburn is my personal beauty icon, she defied the time, which idolized large chests and bleached blonde hair. Her lithe frame, pixie hair and big saucer eyes defined a new, liberated era of beauty. Today I adore Queen Rania, a gorgeous woman whose beauty shines brighter from her dedication to women and girls’ issues. The naturally gorgeous and poised Kate Middleton, whose look is thoroughly modern and perfectly suited to the new image of the royal family, fascinates me. Q: What makeup techniques did your mother teach you? A: My mother, who was a model in the early ’60s, taught me to keep it simple after I marched into the room one morning in heavy blue eye shadow, clumped mascara, and bright pink lips and cheeks. She gave me the ultimate make-under and taught me how to apply cream blush with my fingertips, use one coat of mascara, and dab a bit of baby oil high on my cheekbones for a little glow. Q: If you had to describe Jouer in three words, what would you say? A: Simple, effortless beauty. u For more information on Jouer, call 310.312.0557 or visit www.jouercosmetics.com.

S T Y L E

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

B E A U T Y FA C E & f r a g r ance

9 7 4

Gentlemen may or may not prefer blondes, but they do prefer women who smell delicious. 2. Jimmy choo Tamara Mellon offers Jimmy Choo Parfum, a blend of tiger orchid, candied orange, toffee, sandalwood, and patchouli; $150. 3. creed For a little something luxurious that’s both Persian and Parisian, spritz Royal-Oud, a woody Oriental fragrance; $300. 4. chanel The fashion house celebrated Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s birthday, Aug. 19, with No. 19 Poudré. 5. molton brown Rogart combines fir balsam and maple for an enveloping smell reminiscent of wintry warmth; $110. 6. Clé de Peau Beauté Wear the limitededition cream eye color, and you’ll never be over-shadowed; $45. 7. prada A cocktail of caramel, musks, and benjoin; $80. 8. bite beauty The high-pigment pencil, in “grapevine,” features antioxidant-rich Resveratrol derived from whole super fruits like acai, cranberry, blueberry, and pomegranate to help reduce wrinkles and fight free radicals; $24. 9. burberry Flawless skin on the go with the sheer concealer click-pen; $40. 1. Marilyn monroe

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

2 4

S T Y L E

BEAUTY HAIR & BODY

1. carole lombard, a comedian in the 1930s, was blessed with platinum locks—and a talented colorist. 2. bumble and bumble Spritz the “shine on (and on)” finishing spray for a glossing mist, as seen on the runways of Monique Lhuillier and Zac Posen; $25. 3. lush Pink and sugary, the bubblegum lip scrub will leave your lips deliciously kissable; $8.95. 4. oribe hair cair Remember summer with the après beach wave and shine spray for softly tousled locks, without the salt; $35. 5. yes to carrots Pamper your skin during the fall and winter seasons with the intense repair hand cream formulated with organic carrots to protect from the elements; $8.99. 6. Clé de Peau Beauté Be brighteyed and bushy-tailed every day with the intensive eye contour cream; $250. 7. bliss Wash with the “blood orange+white pepper” sugar scrub for a “scent”-sation that will leave your skin smooth and soft; $36. 8. dr. jart Perfect and protect skin instantly with all-in-one multifunctional water fuse beauty balm made with 50% water for a dewy, fresh look; $32.

FA L L 2 0 1 1 /

Q105

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

EVENING LOOKS

1 Fall evenings are a social whirl, with benefit galas, charity balls, and, of course, weddings on the weekends. Take a cue from these pages, and you’ll be ready for every night of the week. 1. jerry hall Hall is something like the American royalty of rock, given her relationship with Mick Jagger of The Rolling Stones. Any queen or princess must know how to dress up, and satin and feathers aren’t a bad choice. Why not hold court yourself in a bold look—like black and gold? 2. TIFFANY & CO. Framed clutch in satin with palladium-plated solid brass hardware and sphere closure with tiger’s eye. $1,195. 3. christian cota The Mountaineer embroidered jumpsuit. Available upon request. 4. manolo blahnik Gain some height in Manolo Blahnik’s Fringestra high-heeled sandal. $1,595. 5. asprey Daisy Heritage drop earrings in diamonds. $39,000.

Q106

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

4 3

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

EVENING LOOKS

1 3

1. Grace Kelly starred in films like Rear Window and To Catch A Thief, cementing her role as one of legendary Alfred Hitchcock’s greatest muses. Her sense of style is certainly worthy of admiration, even today—simple, sleek, and, well, always graceful. 2. fabergé The Lumière d’Été earrings have tops shaped in the subtle form of a cupola—with a pattern of gems below, echoing traditional Russian ornament—and stunning pear-shaped colored sapphires. Set in 18-kt. white gold with 96 multi-colored sapphires and white diamonds totaling 10.83 carats. $44,000. 3. j.crew Inspired by her world travels, Kotur founder Fiona Kotur creates purses and clutches that combine a respect for traditional craftsmanship with an uncanny sense of what women need—and want—from their accessories. Crafted in exquisite snakeskin, the Colony clutch is a modern collectible recalling a bygone era. Part of J.Crew Collection. $425. 4. max mara You’ll jump (and strut and shimmy and dance) for joy in Max Mara’s gold plissé metallic silk strapless pleated jumpsuit. $1,995.

FALL 2 0 1 1 /

Q107

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

EVENING LOOKS

1 2

1. Marlene dietrich was sung about by Peter Sarstedt in “Where Do You Go To (My Lovely)?” (1969)—one example of her acting as an inspiration. A woman of countless affairs, with both men and women, the way she carried herself was undoubtedly alluring. 2. tory burch These Kyle high-heeled sandals in black and bronze add a little pizzazz to anything black. 3. bulgari Bulgari’s AIDA evening pochette is a conversation piece in its own right: stone gray satin embroidered with pyrite and labradorite stones and gold beads. $6,750. 4. ralph lauren Feel like you’re walking down the runway in Ralph Lauren Collection’s black silk beaded evening dress ($12,000). And why not accessorize to the max with the Ralph Lauren Collection tulle chain flight cap ($1,500)? 5. de grisogono The de Grisogono “Incorcio” bracelet is designed to impress, in black resin with white diamonds in rose gold. $79,200.

Q108

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

EVENING LOOKS

1 an actress born in Budapest, Hungary, had nine husbands, including Conrad Hilton. To attract all these men, she surely needed to know how to look like arm candy—with diamonds and dresses and stoles, oh my! Garnish some attention of your own with some candy for your ears, like Tiffany’s beautiful blue tourmaline and diamond drop earrings. Your feet will feel like dancing in Stuart Weitzman’s dazzling shoes. And what woman doesn’t feel her best in a dress by Carolina Herrera? 2. tiffany & co. Tiffany blue tourmaline and diamond drop earrings in platinum. $54,000. 3. carolina herrera Shimmy and sway the “haute elegant” way in this turquoise faille and amethyst liquid striped strapless gown. Price upon request. 4. stuart weitzman Heel up in Stuart Weitzman’s Swarovski crystal and satin evening shoe. $2,385. 5. asprey A perfect shade to complement this look—rich, luxurious, ladylike—is the Regent clutch by Asprey in turquoise crocodile. $4,900. 1. zsa zsa gabor,

FALL 2 0 1 1 /

Q109

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

SHOPPING INDEX

> Asprey: 212.688.1811 or asprey.com.

B > Barneys New York: 888.222.7639 or barneys.com. > Balenciaga: 212.206.0872 or balenciaga.com. > Bergdorf Goodman: 888.774.2424 or bergdorfgoodman.com. > BITE Beauty: bitebeauty.com. > Bliss: At Sephora, 877.737.4672 or sephora.com. > Bloomingdale’s: 800.777.0000 or bloomingdales.com. > Bottega Veneta: 212.371.5511 or bottegaveneta.com. > Bulgari: 800.BUGLARI or bulgari.com. > Bumble and bumble: bumbleandbumble.com. > Burberry: 212.407.7100 or burberry.com.

C > Calypso St. Barth: 866.422.5977 or calypsostbarth.com. > Carolina Herrera: 212.249.6552 or carolinaherrera.com. > Chanel: 800.550.0005 or chanel.com. > Chloe: 212.717.8220 or chloe.com. > Christian Cota: 212.938.1933 or christiancota.com. > Christian Dior: 212.249.5822 or dior.com. > Christian Louboutin: 212.396.1884 or christianlouboutin.com.

Fall will always be for back-to-school shopping, for students and fashion mavens alike. A backpack filled with books is nice, but a handbag filled with Hermès gloves and Burberry earmuffs is even better. And, as everyone knows, brand-new cashmere isn’t an indulgence—it’s a necessity. So here are ways to find some of the necessities from our pages. Also, don’t forget to join the Quest and Q pages on Facebook, or follow our blog at questmag.com. Happy shopping!

Q110

/ FA L L 2 0 1 1

SHOP ’TIL YOU DROP! A

> Cindy Chao: cindychao.com. > Clarins: clarins.com. > Clé de Peau: At Bergdorf Goodman, 888.774.2424 or bergdorfgoodman.com.

> Agent Provocateur: 212.840.2436 or

> Cynthia Rowley: 212.242.0847 or

agentprovocateur.com.

cynthiarowley.com.

> Akris: 212.717.1170 or akris.com.

> Cynthia Steffe: cynthiasteffe.com.

> Alexander McQueen: 800.307.3150 or alexandermcqueen.com.

> Anne Fontaine: annefontaine.com.

> DANNIJO: 646.755.8909 or dannijo.com.

> Anya Hindmarch: 212.343.8147 or 115 Greene

> David Yurman: 877.908.1177 or davidyurman.com.

Street, New York, NY.

> de Grisogono: 212.439.4220 or degrisogono.com.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

SHOPPING INDEX

> Dennis Basso: 212.794.4500 or dennisbasso.com.

> Dolce & Gabbana: 212.249.4100 or

> Kate Spade: 866.999.KATE or katespade.com.

> Prabal Gurung: 646.351.6199 or prabalgurung.com.

dolceandgabbana.com.

> Kendall Conrad: kendallconraddesign.com.

> Prada: 888.977.1900 or prada.com.

> Douglas Hannant: 212.872.1701 or

> Kotur Ltd.: koturltd.com.

douglashannant.com. > Dr. Jart: drjartstore.com.

R > Ralph Lauren: 888.475.7674 or ralphlauren.com.

> La Perla: 212.570.0050 and laperla.com.

> Roberto Cavalli: 212.755.7722 or

> Lilly Pulitzer: 888.PB.LILLY or lillypulitzer.com.

robertocavalli.com.

> Elie Tahari: 212.334.4441 or elietahari.com.

> Louis Vuitton: 866.VUITTON or vuitton.com.

> Roger Vivier: 212.861.5371 or rogervivier.com.

> Elle MacPherson Intimates:

> Luca Luca: 212.755.2444 or

ellemacphersonintimates.com.

lucaluca.com.

> Emilio Pucci: 212.230.1135 or emiliopucci.com.

> LUSH: lush.com.

> Saks Fifth Avenue: 877.551.SAKS or

> Etro: 212.317.9096 or etro.it.

saksfifthavenue.com. > Salvatore Ferragamo: 866.908.1188 or

> Manolo Blahnik: 212.582.3007 or

ferragamo.com.

manoloblahnik.com.

> Sephora: 877.SEPHORA or sephora.com.

> Marc Jacobs: 212.343.1490 or

> Stella McCartney: stellamccartney.com.

marcjacobs.com.

> Stuart Weitzman: 212.823.9560 or

> GANT by Michael Bastian: 212.813.9170 or

> Marchesa: At Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth

stuartweitzman.com.

us.gant.com.

Avenue, 877.551.SAKS or saks.com.

> Gucci: 877.482.2430 or gucci.com.

> Max Mara: 212.879.6100 or maxmara.com.

> Michael Kors: 800.908.1157 or

> Theory: 877.242.3317 or theory.com.

michaelkors.com.

> Tibi: 212.966.3773 or tibi.com.

> Hanky Panky: hankypanky.com.

> Milly: 212.921.7800 or millyny.com.

> Tiffany & Co.: 561.659.6090 or tiffany.com.

> Hanro: hanrousa.com.

> Miriam Haskell for Marchesa: 212.764.3332 or

> Tommy Hilfiger: 917.237.0983 or usa.tommy.com.

> Havaianas: 866.822.0962 or havaianas.com.

miriamhaskell.com.

> Tory Burch: 866.480.TORY or toryburch.com.

> HermĂ¨s: 800.441.4488 or hermes.com.

> Miu Miu: 212.249.9660 or miumiu.com.

> Hunter Boot: hunter-boot.com.

> Molton Brown: at Saks Fifth Avenue, 877.551.SAKS,

saksfifthavenue.com, or moltonbrown.com.

> Valentino: 212.772.6969 or valentino.com.

> Montblanc: 212.223.8888 or montblanc.com.

> Van Cleef & Arpels: 877.VANCLEEF or

> Fendi: 212.759.4646 or fendi.com.

I > Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry: 888.756.9912 or ivankatrumpcollection.com.

J > J. Mendel: 212.832.5830 or jmendel.com. > J.Crew: 800.562.0258 or jcrew.com.

N > Nancy Gonzalez: nancygonzalez.com. > Neiman Marcus: 800.533.1312 or neimanmarcus.com.

vancleef-arpels.com. > VBH: 212.717.9800 or vbh-luxury.com. > Veronica Beard: veronicabeard.com.

W > Wempe: 212.397.9000 or wempe.com.

> J.Press: 888.7.JPRESS or jpressonline.com.

> Jack Rogers: jackrogersusa.com.

> Oribe: oribe.com.

> Jimmy Choo: 866.JCHOO.US or jimmychoo.com.

> Oscar de la Renta: 888.782.6357 or

> Yigal AzrouĂŤl: 212.929.7525 or yigal-azrouel.com.

> Judith Leiber: 866.542.7167 or judithleiber.com.

oscardelarenta.com.

> Yves Saint Laurent: 212.832.7100 or ysl.com.

FA L L 2 0 1 1 /

Q111

They all say sherle Wagner. Which one says you

gal nauer of gnarchitects chose classic sherle Wagner in white and gold for the legendary Plaza hotel. sherle Wagner makes the statement. choose the one that says you.

212-758-3300 | sherlewagner.com

SW_Qfashion_Sept2010.indd 1

9/1/10 3:0