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42 LIVING LEGEND Liz Smith recounts the story of Judy Garland, the Wizard of Oz star who asked, “If I am such a legend, then why am I so lonely?” Garland’s ups and downs with fame are the focus of Q’s Living Legend this issue. 52 in the details Daly Reardon sits down to speak with Tom Mora, vice president of women’s design at J.Crew, about the inspiration behind the label’s fall collection. “The emotion that J.Crew brings to women,” Mora explains, “crosses generation lines. She is chic, smart, understated but not dull; she has a sense of humor and a sense of herself and she loves color!”
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60 time to grow Stefan Doyno pays a visit to Phoebe Cates Kline, of Fast Times at Ridgemont High and Gremlins fame, at her Upper East Side boutique, Blue Tree. 66 Fall Currents From heavy metals to soft pinks, from military mode to loose-fitting trousers, Elizabeth Meigher and Daniel Cappello fill us in on what was happening on the season’s runways. Take a look at our trend report to find out why it’s time to add a little color to your fall wardrobe. 78 sandy SETS Photographers from the Billy Farrell Agency head east to snap up the summer’s scenesters at the 10th annual Shark Attack Sounds at Rick’s Crabby Cowboy Cafe in Montauk.
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84 All Eyes on Creel Daniel Cappello reports on why everyone from Upper East Siders to Hollywood actors alike are gaga for Jennifer Creel’s jewelry and sunglass brands. 88 “A” is for akris Megan Malloy explores Valerie Steele’s new book, Akris (Assouline), which celebrates the Swiss fashion brand’s 90-year history of sophisticated success.
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The model Jean Shrimpton wearing a red suede suit with a cardigan jacket by Viola Sylbert for Highlander Sportswear and a black straw hat by Emme Boutique. Photographed in March 1965 by Francesco Scavullo. © Condé Nast Archive/Corbis
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23 nostalgia Remembrance of autumns past in a montage of scenes and movie stills that bring our favorite season to life. 26 Jewelry Black and white diamonds, gold and white pearls, rose and white gold: it’s everything goes for a new season of superbly crafted jewelry from today’s greatest designers. 32 TREND The hourglass figure was perfected in the Sixties by housewives and silver-screen stars alike, and this season designers have affirmed that the hourglass is timeless.
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34 bags Exotic skins and fabulous furs make their mark on some of the most luxurious handbags and clutches. 36 coats From mustard shades to military styles, capes to Fair Isle knits, find out how to stay fashionably warm this fall. 40 men’s apparel Taking a cue from the turned-out men of Europe, designers are giving guys good cause to suit up. 96 q focus Coast to coast—from the shores of Nantucket and Shelter Island to The Big Apple and Tinsletown—Q’s got you covered, bringing you behind the scenes of some of the hottest parties from across the nation.
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104 beauty As the weather continues to cool, don’t forget to evolve your beauty routine with everything from moisturizers for your body to enchanting new scents for fall. 106 evening looks Inspired by vintage looks of the legendary Givenchy and modern-day marvels by Christian Dior, we find the greatest gowns—and shoes and bags and jewels—to dress up with for glamorous nights on the town. 110 shopping index A handy guide for where to find all the looks from these pages.
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112 staff selects Our editors weigh in on their favorite must-have fall jackets and outerwear.
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Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L
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EDITOR’S LETTER
It happens every year, that moment—the breathless pause that occurs right around Labor Day, when fall becomes a vivid presence and not just an amorphous idea. No other season is as hard to let go of as summer; it’s like ending a relationship. Although you have enjoyed your time without responsibility, traveling somewhere sunny every weekend, your routine calls. (And living out of a suitcase has lost its luster.) Of course, it’s hard to say goodbye to the delightful, delicious, endearing days of summer. So in that difficult moment, all you can do is sigh and move on and accept that fall has, in fact, arrived. When you do accept that it’s here, fall becomes the most exciting season. Fall is magnetic and full of rebirth and renewal. The city is flooded with people coming home from summer vacations, students returning to school, friends greeting each other after months apart… And as the wind picks up, so does the pace, and everything begins again. In the words of Thomas Merton, “[Fall] is a fine and dangerous season in America. It’s a wonderful time to begin anything at all.” One autumn event in which I know many of are readers are particularly interested is New York fashion week. During the first week of September, designers from all over the country showcase their latest and greatest looks for the spring season in New York City. However, rather than focus on what to wear eight months from now, this issue of Q offers readers a complete and detailed look at what to wear in the coming months. Our trend pages cover everything from accessories and jewelry to the latest styles from top designers. Our fashion round-up provides an in-depth presentation of all of the top looks on the market. Another excellent piece on fashion, “In the Details,” comes from Daly Reardon, our star-worthy summer intern whom we miss dearly and were very sad to see leave. Her piece focuses on the sensational fall collection from Tom Mora, J.Crew’s vice president of women’s design. J.Crew is a company that has evolved over the years to offer one of the greatest assortments of contemporary American women’s, men’s, and children’s apparel and accessories—and Mora is certainly bolstering the house’s fashion appeal. Meanwhile, another star intern of ours, Megan Malloy, takes a look back at the house of Akris, the Swiss fashion label founded by Alice Kriemler-Schoch (and the only Swiss house shown during Paris fashion week). Akris is legendary for its beautifully understated and minimalist approach to luxury. And Q’s fashion director, Daniel Cappello, writes about Jennifer Creel, an actress (she has appeared on “The Bold and the Beautiful,” among other programs), jewelry designer, eyewear designer, and mother of three. Admired for her sophisticated sense of style, Jennifer Creel’s sunglasses and jewelry are as chic as she is. Our Living Legend columnist, Liz Smith (a living legend herself), delivers a touching and poignant look at Judy Garland, the celebrated actress, singer, and vaudevillian who lived in front of audiences since her earliest years. Judy herself once pronounced, “I was born at the age of 12 on an MGM lot.” To quote Liz, Garland “lived and worked always one step from the abyss... Hollywood and fame were her Oz… Judy traveled too close to the sun. She burned and withered and turned to dust. But… The Clockwise, from bottom: Akris celebrates its 90th anniversary indestructible power of her voice is eternal.” with a new book, Akris (Assouline); Jennifer Creel’s sunglasses; Judy Garland dedicated her life to entertaining people, and she Britt Ekland, known for her style; a look from St. John’s Resort succeeded as few others have. Although Garland struggled enormously 2013 collection; Jackie Kennedy with John, Jr., in England; Asprey’s with her self-image and in her personal life, she was smart and she had Oak Leaf hoop earrings; a page from Akris; a Chanel clutch; courage. Judy was never afraid to speak her mind. And with that, we a Bulgari necklace; Judy Garland’s ruby slippers in The Wizard remember Garland’s wise words: “Always be a first-rate version of of Oz; a look from Valentino’s Fall 2012 runway. yourself, instead of a second-rate version of somebody else.” u
ELIZABETH MEIGHER EDITOR
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CONTRIBUTORS
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Stefan Doyno > One of the junior members of the Quest and Q team, Stefan serves as assistant editor. Raised on the Upper East Side and in Scarsdale, he is currently getting his master’s degree in Broadcast Journalism at Columbia University. He comes to us with a broad experience in media and is thrilled to be able to cover his favorite city. In this issue, Stefan interviews the charming and charismatic actress-turned-businesswoman Phoebe Cates Kline and discusses her beautiful and trendy “general store,” Blue Tree.
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Daniel Cappello > As the fashion director of Quest and Q, Daniel regularly reports from the runways on the latest trends and themes in fashion. In this issue, along with editor Elizabeth Meigher, he walks us through trends for Fall and Resort. He also contributes a piece about Jennifer Creel’s latest ventures in eyewear and jewelry. “Jennifer is one of the most beautiful and stylish women on the New York scene,” Daniel says, “So I loved watching her translate her own style into two collections of her own.”
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42 < Daly Reardon has always loved to write. When she was eight, she started a newspaper that she dubbed The Daly News, sending copies to neighbors and her mother’s friends. Today, writing is still her passion. Interning at Quest and Q was a dream come true for Daly, a junior at Trinity College majoring in Creative Writing. On the heels of her book reviews and shopping guides for Quest, Daly sits down with J.Crew’s vice president of women’s fashion and writes about the brand’s current fall collection in this issue of Q.
60 < Billy Farrell is a well-known photographer with over a decade of experience at Patrick McMullan Company and, most recently, his own firm. Several years ago, he and several partners founded Billy Farrell Agency, a full-service digital photography agency that chronicles benefits, red-carpet events, movie premieres, and parties. For this issue, Farrell takes readers to the annual “Shark Attack Sounds” event in Montauk, New York. “I don’t know how to party without a camera,” he says.
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< Megan Malloy joined the Quest and Q editorial team as a summer intern. A rising junior at New York University, Gallatin, she is currently pursuing a degree in Creative Writing. This fall, she will be returning to her roots by studying abroad in London, England. In this issue, Megan takes a look at the extraordinary success and creative power of the Swiss fashion house Akris, chronicled in a new book by Valerie Steele that showcases the brand’s interesting history and iconic identity.
Bi l ly Fa r re ll Ag en c y ; Pa tr i ck M c Mul la n
Liz Smith > Liz calls herself the 2,000-year-old gossip columnist. These days she’s been having fun with her website, which features 20 famous women: WowOWow.com (aimed at the largest demographic coming on the web—women who weren’t born yesterday!). In her latest Q Living Legend column, Liz explores the life of Judy Garland, who began her career in the role of Dorothy in The Wizard of Oz. With a later career built upon live performances on stage, Garland led a life worth singing about.
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fall AC T IVIT I E S Brigitte Anne-Marie Bardot helped to define sexuality
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around the world as a French icon in the Sixties.
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This page: 1. A view of New York Cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Central Park in autumn featuring colorful foliage; 2. A Dartmouth versus Princeton rugby match in 1962; 3. Marianne Faithfull, the English performer who was popular in the Sixties, enjoyed a romantic relationship with Mick Jagger of The Rolling Stones from 1966 to 1970; 4. Fashion designer Oscar de la Renta sharing two umbrellas with three models in 1968. > Opposite page: 1. Bianca Jagger and Mick Jagger were married to each other from 1971 to 1977; 2. A float depicting Superman in the Macyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Thanksgiving Day Parade, circa 1960; 3. Fawn Leibowitz rooting for Dartmouth at a football game in 1962; 4. John F. Kennedy walking with his children, John and Caroline, circa 1963; 5. Audrey Hepburn and her second husband, Count Andrea Dotti, in the bleachers in the Seventies.
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1 Claudia Cardinale was born in 1938 in Tunis, French Tunisia, to a family of Italian immigrants. In 1957, she won a contest for “The Most Beautiful Italian Girl in Tunisia.” Having grown up speaking French, Tunisian Arabic, and the Sicilian dialect of Italian, she eventually learned to speak Italian for her film roles, which included some of the most recognizable European films of the 1960s and ’70s. We all remember her in 1963’s The Pink Panther, which involves a famous pink diamond that goes missing. This fall, reclaim a little Carindalestyle glamour yourself with a dollop of diamonds, or any stones.
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2 1. asprey Oak Leaf hoop earrings in yellow gold and diamonds; $11,700. 2. h.stern Ancient America bracelet in rose gold with black and white diamonds; $34,400. 3. david yurman Starburst Enhancer with purple sapphire and diamond in white gold (chain sold separately); price upon request. 4. roberto coin Scorpion bangle in rose gold with black and white diamonds; $34,740. 5. paul morelli Maltese Marquise clip earrings in gold, rubies, tanzanite, yellow beryl, and white diamonds; $6,700. 6. louis vuitton Spiky Fairy necklace; $7,100. 7. bulgari High Jewelry Collection brooch in three shades of gold, mother of pearl, and diamonds; price upon request.
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In the 1920s, given the advancements in mass production, decoration took on new forms. Costume jewelry was born, with all the sleekness of the real deal (and all the cheapness afforded by the Industrial Revolution). Suddenly, accessories were casual and sporty, inspiring a new wave of readily available designs. A little costume jewelry goes a long way, especially on the stage and silver screen, but when it comes to personal collections, nothing beats diamonds, gold, and precious stones. Whether metal with colored glass or gold with lapis is your thing, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve found some high-end finds fit for all your fall needs.
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1. marina b Cimin rings crafted in 18-kt. yellow gold with red and yellow chalcedony; $2,600 each. 2. montblanc The Montblanc necklace with double pendant; $1,130. 3. chanel Pink metal bracelet with glass stones; select boutiques. 4. mikimoto White South Sea cultured pearl and diamond ring in 18-kt. white and rose gold; $16,000. 5. blair husain jewelry Sagitarius zodiac pendant in 18-kt. gold with lapis; price upon request. 6. cartier Trinity gold pearl ring in yellow, white, and rose gold with diamonds; $68,800. 7. ivanka trump fine jewelry Black-and-white earrings in 18-kt. white gold with pavĂŠ diamond hoops and rock crystal drops; $2,600.
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1. michael kors Fawn wool Melton wide-lapel vest ($1,995) and chantilly lace tank dress ($7,995). 2. j. mendel Camel mélange wool skirt ($1,790) and blush multi-fur jacket with alligator sleeves ($22,000). 3. max mara Camel hair coat ($2,350), Zuppa camel blouse ($565), and Amabile suspender dress ($1,250). 4. yigal azrouël Nude cashmere coat ($1,795) and jumpsuit ($1,150). 5. salvatore ferragamo Peach cotton fringe dress ($3,100), natural python boots ($6,000), and rose leather woven handbag ($2,600). 6. charlotte ronson A-Line Dress with lace panels; $365. 7. st. john The orchid peplum knit sweater ($495) and orchid skirt ($495).
Nude Flush Grace Kelly was the Princess of Monaco and the queen of cool. She was the embodiment of sang froid even in the most harrowing of Hitchcock pictures, including Rear Window and Dial M For Murder. Nothing, it seems, could unnerve the actress or make her blush— which isn’t to say she didn’t know a thing or two about the color. This fall, the runways were awash in shades of nude, beige, and blush.
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190 YEARS AGO
A MAN BET ON HORSES AND CHANGED WATCHMAKING FOREVER .
In 1821, Nicolas Rieussec changed watchmaking forever with the invention of the first chronograph. Today, the Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph Automatic is a tribute to 190 years of the chronograph’s technical evolution. 43 mm stainless steel case, skelleted horns and sapphire crystal back, black calfskin strap with white stitching. Crafted in the Montblanc Manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland.
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1. versace Cashmere and leather black coat with cross detail ($6,950). 2. j. mendel Navy silk chiffon long-sleeve blouse with faille collar ($1,590) over navy micro raffia sleeveless dress ($2,870). 3. reem acra Black leather
Marilyn Monroe might have suffered from feelings of insecurity throughout her life and acting career, but one thing is for sure: the blonde screen sensation was a phenomenal hit in any curve-hugging dress she wore. Though celebrated for her more buxom appeal, she could also squeeze (or be sewn) into a hip-defining waistline to show off the classic Sixties hourglass figure. Designers this season are proving that the hourglass is indeed timelessâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;much like Monroe herself.
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jacket with fur collar and to-the-knee skirt. 4. christian dior A peplum cap-sleeve preview from Resort 2013. 5. lanvin White sleeveless neoprene top ($1,415) and black wool flared skirt ($3,045). 6. oscar de la renta Draw attention to your waist and legs in this feather fringe skirt from a Resort 2013 preview. 7. milly Leather-trimmed sweater ($325) and Raquelle flare skirt in bonded double wool ($290). 8. naeem khan Geometric abstract felt-appliquĂŠ silk-and-wool tweed jacket ($3,990) and feather skirt ($3,890).
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Held In Hand
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Givenchy, born Count Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy, was an aristocrat by birth and a fashion designer by talent. As soon as his lauded fashion house opened in 1952, he influenced not only the way women dress, but how they carry themselves— from the feminine forms of his designs to the accessories they inspired. While long gloves might have fallen out of popularity since Givenchy’s day, handbags have never been more “in.” And there are no better designers than these to help you carry it with you.
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1. Ralph lauren Just what the doctor—and fashionistas everywhere—ordered: the divine small ocelot Doctor bag, from Ralph Lauren Collection; $3,500. 2. devi kroell The rolled python and lucite detailing on Devi Kroell’s Carlyle clutch make it fit for any special occasion, including a night on the town at Café Carlyle; $2,600. 3. bottega veneta The Canyon Snakeskin Passamaneria clutch from Bottega Veneta redefines modern Italian luxury; $4,500. 4. tiffany & co. For the ladies who lunch— and then some: Tiffany’s Cornelia lunchbox in glazed plum crocodile is made in South Africa and fit for travel anywhere; $13,500. 5. roger viver The Prismick Small Dégradé in blue and gray suede with chain handle; $2,925. 6. vbh Luxury never looked or felt as good as VBH’s ultra-luxe skin and fur Venus XL clutch; price upon request.
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Brigitte Bardot’s first French film, Crazy for Love, débuted in
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1952. Her first American film, Act of Love, followed shortly after, in 1953. No matter what language she spoke, people quickly became enamored with Bardot. One dialect she mastered was the language of high style—on display here in her eye-catching over-the-knee boots. Take a cue from Bardot and make a fashion statement of your own.
1. ralph lauren Buckle up in Ralph Lauren Collection’s brown buckled oxford; $850. 2. L.K. Bennett The Cara boot from L.K. Bennett in Bordeaux suede; $495. 3. roger vivier Make your way around the city in Roger Vivier’s tricolor suede and patent leather Scotch boot; $1,595. 4. stuart weitzman Get it right with Stuart Weitzman’s Right ankle bootie in Bordeaux pony hair; $625. 5. devi kroell The trifecta of perfection—python, nappa leather, and crocodile—come together in Devi Kroell’s Tall boot for fall; $1,900. 6. jimmy choo The stunning, psychedelic, hand-painted Tatoo boot in multi-color python with a 120-mm. heel is not to be missed; $2,895.
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Forecast: Fall Coats Fur, in all its forms, has experienced varying degrees of both adulation and opposition throughout history, but it never goes out of style. Functionality might have something to do with it. In this vintage photo from the Sixties, nothing looks warmer than that fur. With fall forecasts calling for cool weather, it’s time to consider investing in coats that will keep you warm, fur trappings or not.
1. yigal azrouël For early fall mornings, warm up in this comfortably chic navy-and-truffle Fair Isle knit; $950. 2. l.k. bennett In addition to shoes and bags, Brit hit L.K. Bennett masters fashion, including this Gracy wool coat in mustard; $595. 3. valentino Bask in the luxury of Valentino in this white embroidered coat; $7,980. 4. gucci For a coat alternative, nothing beats Gucci’s black panno marina double cape; $2,200. 5. salvatore ferragamo Salute fall with true military style in this gray wool high-collar coat; $3,050. 6. burberry prorsum Mid-gray fur collar herringbone top coat; $6,500.
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ACCESSORIES
Painting It Black Mick Jagger, the lead singer of the Rolling Stones, sang “You Can’t Always Get What You Want” on the band’s Let It Bleed album in 1969. Well, you can’t always get what you want, but sometimes you can, like now—with these accessories for fall. If you want to add some distinguished details to your wardrobe, try a handsome polka-dot bow tie or new calf boots. Stone Island just introduced its first-ever line of sunglasses, and what man-about-town doesn’t have a flask?
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1. ovadia & sons Black and white dot silk formal bow tie, 2” wide;
and gunmetal sunglasses; $335. 6. david yurman Royal Cord carved tag
$98. 2. tiffany & co. Silver and black cuffs in titanium and sterling silver
necklace in brown chalcedony and sterling silver; price upon request.
from the Tiffany 1837 collection; $650 each. 3. asprey The Hipflask
7. ralph lauren The Macon classic calf ankle boot is hand-crafted in Italy
from Asprey in sterling silver; $775. 4. montblanc The Meisterstück 149
from hand-burnished calfskin, finished with a leather belt; $1,500. 8. j.crew
fountain pen; $840. 5. stone island New from Stone Island: acetate
The luxuriously soft Bucktown shell cordovan all-in-one cardholder; $215.
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ACCESSORIES
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Grace Kelly, born November 12, 1929, was a Scorpio, a sign whose trademark qualities are obsessiveness and passion. This season, you have every reason to be both obsessive and passionate about accessories by everyone from Jimmy Choo to Tom Ford. Some trinkets—like the lacquered tray from Hermès and Fabergé’s colorful tumblers—are perfect for the home, while others are like candy for your wrist. And a great scarf, which Grace knew so well, adds style to a windy fall day.
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1. louis vuitton The Passion belt in yellow and pink; $720 each. 2. jimmy choo The Filipa zip-around wallet now comes in a Union Jack print on denim; $550. 3. sailormade The Endeavour Brummel bracelet is inspired by the ropes and hardware of a sailboat; $90. 4. tom ford Exaggerated cat eyes make a statement every day: Tom Ford’s Nikita sunglasses; $360. 5. j.crew Printed three-season scarf in a lush but airy wool mix; $65. 6. rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust in 18-kt. Everose gold with diamonds; $75,500.
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7. fabergé Silver enamel red and green shot glasses; $2,504 each. 8. hermès The Chakor GM change tray in lacquered wood and lizard detail; $1,050.
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Guys Gear Up For Fall European men have long reigned supreme in dressing up: Parisian men add that je ne sais quoi to just about any look; Italians have style savvy written in their D.N.A.; and Brits boast Savile Row and a nonpareil attention to detail. So it’s no surprise that the European designers on this page carry such traditions into today—along with, we’re proud to say, Americans like Ralph Lauren and Michael Bastian.
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1. salvatore ferragamo Ferragamo reinvents fall staples with luxuries like this suede double-breasted coat. 2. sandro From Paris with love: MODS cotton parka ($950); off-white wool sweater ($390); black jeans ($235); and burgundy leather boots ($565). 3. louis vuitton Go modern in Louis Vuitton’s fall jacket ($1,800), pants ($690), shirt ($980), and tie ($245). 4. etro Plaid shearling coat ($6,353); Navajo print wool suit ($2,500) and cotton shirt ($486); and feathered tie ($772). 5. ralph lauren Pay homage to autumn in Ralph Lauren Purple Label’s plaid wool suit ($5,495), dress shirt ($425), and silk tie ($195). 6. michael bastian Tan-and-cream peaklapel pinstripe suit; gingham cutaway collar shirt; and navy cashmere knit tie.
Mark Edward Partners an insurance brokerage firm founded upon the core values of innovation, service and trust.
505 park avenue new york, ny 10022 212.355.5005 440 royal palm way palm beach, fl 33480 561.655.0557
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“If I am such a legend, then why am I so lonely?” That was a familiar refrain of the late, great movie star and live-concert phenomenon, Judy Garland. It was a good line. She made people believe it. She came to believe it herself. The reality of the situation was that Judy Garland was never alone. She was almost always surrounded by people—adoring friends, brilliant co-workers, bewildered but besotted children, an ever-present entourage. Husbands and lovers. (Despite crushing insecurities about her physical appearance, Judy’s wit, charm, and sex appeal were such that she didn’t miss out on much in matters of amour. Men adored her.) She was one of the most celebrated, worshipped, and honored entertainers of the 20th century. If, toward the end of her life, the crowd around her thinned, it was Judy herself who had done the winnowing. Garland was never quite the victim of her
The Legend Of Judy Garland
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self-generated legend. (“Sympathy is my business,” she told her daughter, Liza Minnelli. And her business was her life.) Recently, the white-hot, ice-cold finale of Judy Garland’s life was regurgitated in the Broadway show End of the Rainbow. This was Judy in extremis—London, circa 1969. Her voice shattered (again)… Her career on the precipice (again)… Her involvement with an inappropriate man (again)… Her fighting with agents and musicians and nightclub owners (again)! Those who are old enough to remember still recall the tremulous wraith who impersonated Judy at that point in her life. She was encased in her glittering pantsuits, still trying to give her all on stage, sometimes achieving a miracle. But more often, openly asking (expecting) her audiences to
This page: Judy Garland was known as “The World’s Greatest Entertainer”; The Wizard of Oz (1939) starred Jack Haley, Bert Lahr, Garland, Frank Morgan, and Ray Bolger (inset). > Opposite page: From childhood, July Garland was recognized for her vocal talents.
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This page: Sid Luft and Judy Garland with their children, Lorna and Joey, in 1960; Garland with Van Johnson, her co-star in Picture Show (1949). > Opposite page, clockwise from top left: The Great Lady has an Interview (1945) featured Judy Garland; Garland with her children, circa 1970; a candid photograph; Garland, on the left, playing as a child; Vincente Minnelli with Garland and their baby, Liza Minnelli.
forgive their long-lost Dorothy. It was not a nice time, those months in London; perhaps an odd, even unpalatable, subject upon which to base this recent two-hour-and-ten-minute play with music. Supremely unappetizing for those with no appetite for a grisly wallow, but it was fascinating theater nonetheless. (Tracie Bennett played Garland, and does her volcanic best to make sense of the ravaged, latter-day Judy.) It was a niche play for a niche audience about a niche moment in Garland’s life. I wondered, as I watched it, how a young person might react? Would they be appalled? Or would they think: “What the hell was that? Should I go to YouTube and check out the real Judy Garland?” Most definitely yes, young person. Rent her films; check out Turner Classic Movies; pick up the legendary “Judy at Carnegie Hall” album (among others). You will find a genius—a woman who, in her lifetime, was referred to—without argument—as
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“The World’s Greatest Entertainer.” Judy (née Frances Ethel Gumm) began in vaudeville. A child with a voice so big some thought she was a prodigiously talented midget. No child could have such a powerful, soulful voice! Judy would later say she was “pushed” onstage by her monster mother, Ethel. Biographers have ascertained that the majority of Judy’s horror stories were exaggerated or invented. Ethel wasn’t a picnic but, the truth was, Judy loved to perform. She couldn’t be stopped; she loved the applause, the attention. By the time Judy was signed by MGM, vaudeville was dead. The glossy studio that had spawned Joan Crawford, Norma Shearer, and Jeanette MacDonald didn’t know what to do with this short, freckle-faced, pug-nosed, slightly plump dynamo. They put her in supporting roles, they put her on the radio. (Her rendition of “Zing! Went the Strings of My Heart” at the age of 13 is a miracle of emotion and musical expertise.) She was “on the cusp” for a few frustrating years. (She sobbed with jealousy
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This page: Judy Garland with Mickey Rooney in Babes on Broadway (1941); Rooney kissing Garland at the premiere (inset). > Opposite page, from top: A still of Judy Garland and Mickey Rooney; Clark Gable, Shirley Temple, Rooney, and Garland outside of MGM in 1942; Garland and Rooney filming a number for Strike Up the Band (1940) at MGM.
over the success of Deanna Durbin.) Then came The Wizard of Oz, for which she was actually too old—16, with her bust bound, but just right in so many ways. Her innocence was combined with a touch of irony and self-awareness. Utterly believable and true, she also allowed herself to stand back a bit, confiding in us in that she, Judy Garland, was really too sophisticated for this tale of tornadoes and witches and Emerald Cities. It was this tense, push-pull that came to fascinate her audiences, welding them to her even when she was depleted and strung out. Judy, in film after film (a relentless grind) brought something unique to American movie-goers, and later to her rapturous live audiences. Judy was a natural, visceral actress, even in her Let’s Put on a Show! movies with Mickey Rooney. She was Method before The Method, wrapped in (mostly) silly musical comedies: Babes In Arms, Babes on Broadway, Presenting Lily Mars, For
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Me and My Gal, etc.). Judy was the cheerful girl next door who, one felt, might cut her wrists over a callous boy. Her unique singing voice with its emotion-wrenching vibrato could convey reckless, raucous joy, as well as the plaintive cry of love embraced or unrequited. She married and divorced. David Rose, the musician, bored her. Vincente Minnelli, who appreciated her sophistication and dramatic talent, tried to put that onscreen in Meet Me in St. Louis, The Clock, and The Pirate. But, like her mother, Minnelli tended to side with MGM. The studio expected her to show up on time, behave herself, be grateful for her good salary and the perks of stardom. Plagued by insomnia, driven to maintain an unnaturally slim figure, tortured by her insecurities, addicted to studio-provided drugs, Garland never felt obliged to be grateful, and she certainly never took responsibility for her actions. Also, she did not like to be told what to do—ever! (The marriage to Minnelli did at least produce the bedazzling Liza.) Garland’s career at MGM careened to an end in 1950, littered with suspensions, firings, and suicide attempts. With the exception of Minnelli’s project The Pirate, her movies remained popular with audiences, but were too expensive to make. She was trouble that the studio could no longer afford. At the age of 28, a worn-out, furrowbrowed Garland was written off as a “has been.” Hardly! Judy met a new man, Sid Luft, with a new plan. She launched herself into a live-concert career that generated reactions unlike any other performer’s personal appearances up to that time. The fans who fell in love with her onscreen now saw her in the reality of her oft-abundant flesh—watched the enormous black eyes well up and search the darkness, looking for that bluebird of happiness or the man that got away, galvanized by her dramatic body language, the use of those magnificent hands, which she used to punctuate her songs. (Judy picked up a lot of tricks from her pal, the performer and music arranger Kay Thompson.) She made history at the London Palladium and at the Palace in New York.
Hollywood called again. Garland would face the cameras as Esther Blodgett/Vicki Lester in George Cukor’s remake of A Star Is Born. Judy, now managed by husband Sid Luft, enjoyed a piece of the producing pie. The movie was overbudget, over-long, overwrought. Brilliant, but self-indulgent. Garland did her best to behave, but four years away from the discipline of movie sets hadn’t done her any favors. Still, the film opened to raves and rapturous audiences. Then, the film was poorly “edited” by Jack Warner, who wanted more bang for his buck: shorter movie, more showings. The resulting bad publicity affected the box office and Judy’s make-orbreak comeback movie barely broke even. She was Oscarnominated but lost, incredibly, to glamorous newcomer Grace Kelly, who wore glasses and her hair in a bun for The Country Girl. This impressed Academy voters. Judy’s loss was also a signal from Hollywood that they hadn’t quite forgiven her past and current misbehavior. The movie did, however, give FA L L 2 0 1 2 /
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her that great torch song, The Man That Got Away. Now began a treadmill grind that surpassed anything Judy had complained about during her years at MGM. The great star would spend the rest of the decade singing for her supper— literally. TV specials, nightclubs, and concert halls revealed an increasingly erratic Judy, battling her weight and struggling with that fabulous voice. Trouble seemed to dog her at every step but, always, she would rise again—back at the Palace, at the Metropolitan Opera House, and in Las Vegas—to screaming, appreciative audiences. She recorded splendid albums for Capitol Records—“Judy In Love,” “That’s Entertainment”— though none sold spectacularly well. Her catalog, compared to that of her contemporaries, was narrow, and her hit-making days were in the past. There were more children (Lorna Luft and Joey Luft), more money woes, more lawsuits, more marital problems, and finally, in 1959, total collapse and near death. Judy had abused herself to such an extent that her doctors warned her she had perhaps five years left and must never work again: her career, they insisted, was over. Hardly! Less than a year later, Judy would begin recording again. She was cast in a small but crucial role in Stanley Kramer’s Judgment at Nuremberg, a poignant turn that would nab a Best
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Supporting Actress nomination. Her weight dropped. She was pleasingly plump rather than shockingly bloated. Under new management, as the Luft marriage was in its final tumultuous throes, Judy began her concert career anew. It was no longer an “act.” Now it was Judy alone onstage, just the lady. A microphone and that voice. Audiences who thought they’d seen the best of her were dazzled again. A startlingly healthy Judy was booked into New York’s Carnegie Hall, backed by Mort Lindsay’s brilliant arrangements and orchestrating. The result was an event that became instantaneously legendary. Better than rave reviews or idolatrous word of mouth was the live recording of the night. Judy at Carnegie Hall remained at the number-one spot on the Billboard for 13 weeks. Even people who thought they didn’t like Judy became fans. She made two more films: A Child is Waiting and I Could Go On Singing. The latter contains a Garland performance that has to be seen to be believed. Playing an ersatz version of herself, she is magnificent. Never, it seemed, had Judy Garland been this much in demand, so in the moment. TV beckoned. Two high-rated specials led Garland to accept what appeared to be a spectacular offer from CBS for her own weekly series. But the pressure and grind of this, her greatest comeback, was taking its toll. She had dieted drastically. There were suicide attempts. (Or at least theatrical cries for attention.) She was involved with one of her agents, the unscrupulous David Begelman. Initially enthusiastic—especially with the promise of financial security—Garland soon became disenchanted. The very qualities that had made her a movie star and so beloved in concert were anathema to CBS. She was nervous, emotional, jittery, vulnerable. Producers, directors, and concepts changed three times. Although Garland was not always at her best vocally, and looked sometimes shockingly frail, she delivered dozens and dozens of stunning solo performances. If all that remained of Garland’s work were her renditions of “A Cottage for Sale,” “Poor Butterfly,” “Battle Hymn of the Republic,” and “Old Man River” for the TV series, she’d still be a legend. It ended after only 26 episodes. In truth, she was not ready for primetime. Not on a weekly basis. Not in 1963. Her intensity and realism was exhausting. The end of the series was, in effect, the end of the line for Judy. She had placed all her hopes on this project. She found herself in debt, again, despite all the promises of financial salvation. Of the final years, there is little to say. She damaged her voice permanently after an overdose in Hong Kong in 1964. Caught in an unending cash crisis, she could not rest. One performance would be dazzling, the next disaster. She could still summon the old magic, but her “comebacks” were now endurance trials rather than celebrations of renewed strength. Audiences remained faithful, but even their patience could
This page, clockwise from top left: Judy Garland as a child; a record cover for the soundtrack to A Star is Born (1954); Garland with her daughter Liza Minnelli; Mickey Rooney and Garland in Girl Crazy (1943); a poster for Meet Me In St. Louis (1944); a still from Strike Up the Band (1940); Robert Walker acted opposite Garland in The Clock (1945). > Opposite page: Judy Garland with her daughter Liza Minnelli on the set of In the Good Old Summertime (1949).
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be tested. She returned to the Palace in 1967, but her voice was in shreds though the theatrical charisma remained. Two more incredibly inappropriate husbands accompanied her descent during this era. It all ended shortly after her 47th birthday and a series of controversial appearances at The Talk of the Town, a nightclub in London. An “incautious self-overdose,” the coroner declared. Judy had literally taken one pill too many. Her death generated sensational headlines and thousands passed by her open casket at Frank Campbell’s Funeral Home in New York. What killed Judy? It wasn’t, I feel, her maligned mother, her adored father (who died too early to disappoint her), or the hierarchy of MGM, who treated her like a product—which, of course, she was. Not the men who “used” her, either. No, she was just too damn talented. Normal life was never in the cards for her. (Did she even want it?) She lived and worked always one step from the abyss. She complained but never took concrete steps to make life easier. The maelstrom was all she knew. Chaos was part and parcel of her art. It gave her that edge. It made people scream and cry and
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rush the stage. She gave her genius every step of the way. Once after a particularly good concert, Judy, who was swamped by admirers, broke away from the crowd and locked herself in her bedroom. Later, someone on her staff asked what was the matter. Frantically hyped up by the adulation, inured to the inevitable letdown, she said, “What more do they want? I just couldn’t say ‘Thank You’ one more time!” It was her audiences that should have said “Thank You.” James Mason, as Norman Maine in A Star is Born, tells Judy’s character: “You have that little something extra that makes a star.” The real-life Judy had a lot of something extra. Her legacy—that passionate commitment to give every ounce she had—is even more impressive today, in this era of auto-tuned vocal fakery and hollow “American Idols” stretching for the big notes. Not to mention the tense, ironic vulnerability of her underrated acting. Judy traveled too close to the sun. She burned and withered and turned to dust. But unlike the stars of the universe—or the silly, transient rainbow—she could not die. The indestructible power of her voice is eternal. u
This page, clockwise from top left: Judy Garland was 16 when she played Dorothy with Jack Haley and Ray Bolger in The Wizard of Oz (1939); a promotional photograph from Presenting Lily Mars (1943); Garland acted in The Pirate (1948), a film directed by her second husband, Vincente Minnelli; Garland dressed up for a black-tie event; Garland dancing with Fred Astaire in Easter Parade (1948). > Opposite page: Douglas McPhail acted opposite Judy Garland in Little Nellie Kelly (1940).
In The Details by
Above, left to right: Chartreuse short-sleeve top and pencil skirt; gray sequin-and-lace skirt with gray-and-ivory colorblock sweater; raspberry shawl-collar coat and pink tweed CafĂŠ capri pant.
D a l y R e a rd o n
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In 1983, J.Crew mailed out its first catalogue, filled with
Co u r te sy o f J .C re w / KSW
classic cuts and timeless pieces. Nearly three decades later, J.Crew is one of the most well-known and consistantly impeccable brands in women’s fashion. Tom Mora, Vice President of Women’s Design at J.Crew, shared with us the story behind this season’s looks and everything that inspires him. Q: What was your inspiration for this season’s collection? Tom Mora: This season I was inspired by the photographs of Irving Penn. His photos are classic, elegant, and timeless—that’s the kind of clothing we continually strive to design. Q: How does this collection reflect current fashion trends? TM: Amazing graphic sweaters, head-to-toe prints, and beautiful novelty pants were all key parts of the collection. FA L L 2 0 1 2 /
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Q: Can you give us any insight into what went into this collection’s presentation—what it was like building up to the presentation, the day of, any behind-the-scenes moments that stand out? TM: The whole experience was a dream. Putting the looks together was so much fun, we could have done 30 more! The fittings on the models were also a great experience. You really have to stay calm even if a look you have picked for a model doesn’t work or if a model cancels at the last minute—that was the only thing that was stressful. Backstage at the presentation, there was so much going on between hair and makeup, the models being photographed, interviews, and making sure everything looked perfect, but it all went very smoothly. I was so overwhelmed by the number of people who came to see what we had done, but it was a really great feeling.
Backstage at J.Crew’s Fall 2012 collection presentation at Mercedez-Benz Fashion Week in New York, where models are fitted in their looks and prepped for hair and makeup.
Cour tesy of J . C re w/ KSW
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This page, left to right: Red tweed dress with burCo u r te sy o f J .C re w / KSW
gundy Foundry small purse; plum jacquard pant with reverse Fair Isle sweater. > Opposite page: Full looks from the current J.Crew Fall 2012 collection.
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This page, above and below: Tom Mora prepares models for the runway; photographers and fashion editors devour the fall collection. > Opposite page, left to right: Saddle wool toggle coat, camel-and-navy mariner striped hoodie, printed silk pant, and leopard mini Biennial haircalf satchel; navy-and-poppy handknit cashmere sweater and brown python skirt.
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Q:Your looks have a classic and timeless appeal, but are so modern and invigorated. How do you keep your ideas fresh? TM: We get to work with the best fabrics in the world so that in itself is incredibly inspiring. I also work with the chicest, most talented people, whom I am inspired by every day. Q: Where are you looking to expand in the future? TM: The great thing about J.Crew is that we haven’t maxed out anything we are currently doing. There is still so much growth to be had in every department.
Co u r te sy o f J .C re w / KSW
Q: Do you have any fashion role models or designers you especially look up to? TM: Carolina Herrera, Derek Lam, Stella McCartney, Tom Ford, and Ralph Lauren. These are people in the industry who conduct themselves in a manner that is as chic and elegant as their clothing. Even though they are no longer with us, Coco Chanel, Perry Ellis, and Geoffrey Beene will always be a point of reference for me. Q: Who is the “ideal” J.Crew woman today? TM: She is a woman of any age—that is the best part of what we do. The emotion that J.Crew brings to women and men crosses generation lines. She is chic, smart, understated but not dull; she has a sense of humor and a sense of herself and she loves color! Q: What inspires you the most in designing women’s fashion? TM: Walking around every day and seeing women on the streets, in restaurants, and on TV, all wearing J.Crew proudly. u
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This page: A portrait of Phoebe Cates by Brigitte Lacombe, 1986. > Opposite page: A foot purse by InĂŠs Figaredo.
Time To Grow Stefan Doyno
Br i gi tte La co m b e
by
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Memorable roles and comedic charm in films like Fast Times at Ridgemont High and Gremlins made Phoebe Cates a household name in the 1980s. The daughter of TV producer Joseph Cates, she grew up with ties to the film industry, but she says business has always run through her veins. Now married, Cates Kline is at the helm of her own successful boutique, Blue Tree, located at 1283 Madison Avenue. Blue Tree is filled with unique and interesting products, from magic tricks that evoke a memory of childhood to an original interchangeable ring line, aptly titled Change Rocks. Phoebe Cates Kline has a passion for her store and her title as a storeowner, and everything she picks reflects her charming personality. She has never been interested in following trends, which is precisely what makes her a natural trendsetter.
woman you are today? > I’ve always been a pretty good businesswoman. I’ve been working since I was 10 at my first summer job at Gallery Drug, near Bloomingdale’s. I was a plain-clothes security girl, ensnaring unsuspecting shoplifters! (Well, actually just one poor old lady stealing Band-Aids.) I also started my education in jewelry at the illustrious Fred Leighton. My sister and I both worked there several summers in a row. Modeling and acting came fairly soon thereafter. What makes Blue Tree distinct? Are there rare finds customers will find there? > We pride ourselves on the variety of the mix: small, thoughtful gifts; spectacularly illuminated, hand-carved lucite boxes; off-color greeting cards; and Victorian sterlingsilver baby rattles, for example. The core of our business is and always has been jewelry, women’s clothing, and accessories. I personally have never cared about name-brand anything—only special, wearable pieces. Ones you won’t find everywhere and on everyone. And it seems I’m not alone.
Co u r te sy o f I né s F i ga re do
You worked a lot growing up. What was your first job and how did that experience help you to become the business-
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How has Blue Tree evolved over the past seven years? > Blue Tree started out as a “neighborhood” shop, one that I hoped would be a fresh take on a general store, but a general store according to me! So actually, there’s nothing really general about it, I guess. To my delight, the neighborhood completely embraced us, but interestingly, over the last few years, Blue Tree has also become somewhat of a destination store. We have customers coming not only from all over the city, but from all over the world. Also, a few years ago we expanded the back of our physical store space and created a home department, which has emerged as a major attraction.
This page: Phoebe Cates Kline by Brigitte Lacombe, 2012. > Opposite
What do you look for when buying products for Blue Tree? > I look for things that I would either love to have myself or for any kind of whimsical item that I could easily give to someone. The buying is, of course, personal, but after seven years of knowing what my customers respond to, I will also often buy something
Does your style change often? Do you have any personal likes or dislikes? > I have never been particularly interested in following fashion trends. I don’t read fashion magazines or go to shows. I think it’s odd to look around and suddenly see that everyone is wearing cheetah or neon or something,
page, clockwise from top: Interior shot of Blue Tree by Brigitte Lacombe; scarf by Prova; interchangeable jewelry by Change Rocks, writer Stefan Doyno's company, which was first featured by Blue Tree in 2005.
I know they will simply love too. I also particularly love to carry items that might cross over age and gender barriers: puzzles, for example, or a simple black umbrella with the hardware discreetly placed on the outside, rather than the inside.
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Br i gi tte La co m b e ; Co ur te s y o f Ch a ng e Ro ck s; Co ur te s y o f Prova
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and it’s not a coincidence! People should wear what they love and not what they are told they should be wearing. As far as personal dislikes, I really just have one. I have a phobia about the color mauve. I don’t wear it, won’t have it anywhere near me, don’t even like the way it sounds—and I would never purchase anything in mauve for the shop either! But that’s about it; everything else is fair game. I think I shop for Blue Tree clothing and accessories the same way that I shop for myself. If I love it, I’ll try it, whether it’s de rigueur or not. What are some of your favorite fall items that customers will be able to find at Blue Tree? > Some of my favorite upcoming fall items are the bright, flowered silk scarves with gold-beaded fringe by Prova and She-Bee’s brand-new color-block skull necklaces, made just for Blue Tree. Sofie D’hoore is a wonderful Belgian designer, and I always snag a couple pairs of her amazing pants! Also, Japanese hand-knit sweaters by Hiromi.
This page: Another shot of Phoebe Cates Kline, 2012. > Opposite page, clockwise from top: Stationery; exterior shot of Blue Tree; one-of-a-kind opal earrings with diamonds, blue sapphires, and garnets by Un Hada.
You and your sister Valerie started a jewelry line specifically for the store. Can you tell us a little bit about the inspiration behind it? > Yes, Blue Tree has its own jewelry line, which is called “I’d Like to Give You The Moon and Then Some...” My sister Valerie and I worked on it together. The idea is that you can give someone a charm—starting with the moon—and then add on charms that symbolize other things you wish you could give them: the stars, a good night’s sleep, unconditional love, a silver lining, a snow day, good fortune, a pet monkey, and so on. We have over 40 charms to choose from and we continue to launch new ones every year. u
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Br i gi tte La co m b e ; Co ur te s y o f Un H a da
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Fall Currents by
Elizabeth Meigher
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St. John
with
Daniel Cappello
M i c h a e l Ko r s
Marchesa
Ra l p h L a u re n
O s c a r d e l a Re n t a
Elie Saab
J. Mendel
Rocking With Heavy Metal >
Metallics and heavy
hardware are a hit this
fall, as an accessory
or a full ensemble.
Think Beyoncé in her
“Sweet Dreams” video.
S a l va t o re Fe r ra g a m o
Lanvin
Ve r s a c e
P ra b a l G u r u n g
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Elie Saab
M a x M a ra
All runway imag es cour tesy of the d esig ners
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G i o rg i o A r m a n i
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Free Flowing > Loose trousers made a comeback in a big way this fall, finding their easy-breezy way down the runway of several
Re b e c c a Ta y l o r
St. John
designers. Pants it is!
Christian Dior
B u r b e r r y P ro r s u m
O s c a r d e l a Re n t a
True Blue, We Love You > Blue, the coolest color—that of the sky and sea—has been associated with spirituality and sincerity. So go
J. Mendel
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Prabal Gurung
BCBG Max Azria
on, keep your cool.
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Elie Saab
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Sheer Delight > Confidence, we know, is attractive. Now’s the time to embrace yours and opt for fall’s translucent fabrics
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Marchesa
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Going Green > and known as a calming
Gucci
Symbolizing nature
color, green is a bright alternative to classic fall colors
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All r u n w ay i m a ge s co u r te sy o f th e de s i gn e r s
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like crimson and navy.
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Burberry Prorsum
J. Mendel
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Military Mode >
Army-inspected coats,
belted blazers, buttons,
and structured shoulders
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O s c a r d e l a Re n t a
Lanvin
Calvin Klein Marni
< Seeing Red The most emotional of colors, red stimulates breathing and heartbeats...and will get you noticedâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;as
Jil Sander
Marchesa
Christian Dior
you should be!
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Pink Lady > Audrey Hepburn once said, â&#x20AC;&#x153;I believe in pink.â&#x20AC;? We believe in these pink looks for fall, which are sure
All r u n w ay i m a ge s co u r te sy o f th e de s i gn e r s
O s c a r d e l a Re n t a
to leave you happy.
Milly
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Dennis Basso
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Go With Gray > Gray is a failsafe in fashion: a foolproof fall-winter staple, from jackets to skirts and
Elie Saab
Milly
M i c h a e l Ko r s
Embrace your grays.
S a l va t o re Fe r ra g a m o
evening gowns.
B u r b e r r y P ro r s u m
All ru n w a y im a ge s co u r te sy o f th e de sign e rs
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Sandy Sets photographed by and
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Madison McGaw
Shark Attack Sounds / To celebrate Fourth of July weekend, the young and the guest list departed New York City, bypassing towns like East Hampton and Southampton for Montauk, where Ben Watts, Ben Pundole, and Mazdack Rassi hosted their 10th annual “Shark Attack Sounds” at Rick’s Crabby Cowboy Cafe. The Milksponsored event attracted thousands, decked in everything from cut-offs and face paint to glitter and Hawaiian-print everything as they listened to music by DJs Chelsea Leyland, Zen Freeman, Carl Kennedy, and Victor Calderone. Between cups of rosé, revelers mixed and mingled on the sand—and in the DJ booth. So, like, AMERICA!
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Shark Attack Sounds / This page: 1. Revelers at Rickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Crabby Cowboy Cafe; 2. Boris Talan; 3. Ania Cywinska; 4. Jeisa Chiminazzo; 5. a group of friends; 6. Emette Shine, Max Barbaria, and PJ Monte; 7. boys wearing themed apparel; 8. lasers and lights; 9. Nikki Rothberg. > Opposite page: 1. Derek Baynham and Stephanie Karvellas; 2. Savannah Engel; 3. Shamone Jardim, Amanda Fabail, Marike Wesseis, Anna Binfigrabskaia, and Soraya Azzab; 4. partiers displaying a graphic T-shirt; 5. Ben Pundole; 6. Charlotte Ronson; 7. Lorenzo Martone and Jeisa Chiminazzo; 8. Alexandra Lanci, Liz Prutting, and Meghan Burke; 9. Jeanann Williams.
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Shark Attack Sounds / This page: 1. Phil Winser and Dree Hemingway; 2. David X Prutting and Kate Lanphear; 3. Ben Watts in the DJ booth; 4. a shot of the crowd; 5. Olivia Sandelman and Alexander Adler; 6. a PYT perches herself on her friendâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shoulders; 7. everyone leaving the event at midnight. > Opposite page: Kate Foley, Athena Calderone, Chelsea Leyland, and Jeane Lombardo.
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This page: Jennifer Creel’s sunglass collection for MODO Eyewear includes the Sabrina, Talitha, Virgina, and Jamie styles. > Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Audrey Hepburn, elegant in sunglasses; Amy Fine Collins in the Alix frames by MODO For Jennifer Creel; Italian film star Sophia Loren famously donned stylish eyewear in all shapes and shades.
All Eyes On Creel Jennifer Creel is a woman of varied passions, many talents, and indisputably good taste. She is touched by what might be called star quality; not only is she always one of the most stylish women in the room, but when she enters, she glides past gracefully in an aura of luminescence. Yes, she literally glows. No matter where she goes—riding horses at the stables, sitting front row at a fashion show, entering a black-tie gala on the red carpet—people want to know what designer she is wearing. And when it comes to her accessories, like sunglasses, cuffs, bracelets, and necklaces, her answer of late has been, “My own.” Creel’s designs in eyewear and jewelry have launched three distinct lines that are the talk of the town: MODO for Jennifer Creel, a sunglass collection for MODO Eyewear; Jennifer
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Creel Custom Jewelry, a bespoke jewelry line; and Creel-Mack, a collaborative jewelry and accessories line with fellow designer Christine Mack (all available at www.jennifercreel.com). “It all happened very organically,” Creel explains on a late summer afternoon, relaxing comfortably by the water on the east end of Long Island in a pair of her own Sabrina sunglasses. And it began with her own search for something unique. While vacationing in Italy, Creel spotted a gold jewelry designer in Florence and asked him if he could create a necklace for her that would incorporate each of her three children’s names. “Jewelry is such a highly personal thing,” Creel says. “Everyone is looking for something that’s unusual and individual. And when I passed this designer in Florence, I thought, ‘What could be more per-
Am y F i ne Co ll i n s c o ur te sy o f J e n n i fe r Cre e l
Daniel Cappello
Su n gla ss e s c o ur te sy o f M O D O Eye wea r ;
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This page: The Sabrina style from MODO For Jennifer Creel (top); the Fisher style (bottom). > Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Creel’s monogram pendant; the designer Jennifer Creel with Sabrina sunglasses and a Love Butterfly necklace, both her designs; Creel’s daughter Alix wears a Maltese cuff, diamond name tag necklace, and Talitha sunglasses designed by her
sonal than keeping my children close at heart?’” The necklace, as it turns out, almost didn’t happen. “We were in the car driving back through Tuscany when I realized I never picked it up. My daughter was shouting from the back seat, ‘We have to go back!’ Of course she was right, so back we went.” And that necklace would inspire and help launch Creel’s own creative outlet. When she wore it out, friends and strangers alike would ask her where she had it made; eventually, they were asking her to make a similar one for themselves, so she decided to take the plunge and begin her foray into the jewelry business. It makes sense. After all, nothing has ever seemed to stop Jennifer Creel from taking on a new role. Her career has spanned an impressive array of titles and occupations. She began as a gemologist before working as an interior designer with Pamela Banker, then moved into retail at Polo Ralph Lauren, where she got the design itch and eventually started creating pieces for the label’s active lifestyle lines. Motherhood called next, and after her third child was born, she began acting lessons with Harold Guskin that would land her on television in CBS’s “The Bold
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and the Beautiful,” then on Plum TV. So when going back to jewelry and design beckoned, Creel took the call. Her eponymous bespoke-jewelry line caters to the customer who wants a one-of-a-kind piece. She creates cuffs, pendants, bracelets, necklaces, and even belt buckles in gold, diamonds, and many combinations thereof. As one of her many fans, the actress Kelly Rutherford, says, “Jennifer has amazing style... I am such a huge fan and proud owner of her designs.” Vintage jewelry often inspires her—looks that have faded but have a timeless appeal. And memories of her family’s jewelry, including her grandmother’s Maltese cross cuff, childhood charm bracelets, and ID bracelets, have come back to life in pieces from her collaborative Creel-Mack line. Her definitive style in both collections is classic but with an edge—be it upscale or boho. And speaking of classics, perhaps nothing will stand the test of time better than MODO For Jennifer Creel sunglasses, an environmentally conscious collection of eight enduring styles hand-crafted in Japan of natural fibers. Worn by bold-faced names everywhere, they are available at luxury retailers like Punto Ottico in New York. The leather and titanium frames feature vibrant colors like oranges, blues, and purples, which lend a distinctive feel. They’re designed for the moment, but also to stand the test of time. “You can put them in a drawer,” Creel explains, “and not pick them up again for 10 years. And they’ll still look great.” As will Jennifer Creel, we’re pretty sure. u
Sung lasses cour tesy of MO DO Eyewear; Cour tesy of Jennif er Creel; Cour tesy of Tom McCall
mother; Whitney Fairchild in Creel’s Maltese cuff and Sabrina sunglasses.
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“A” Is For Akris Trends are the bread and butter of fashion journalists. The focus on looks that change minute by minute can often be the nerve center of the fashion world, while more discreet, timeless brands are frequently overlooked. Such is the case of Akris, the Swiss brand founded in 1922 by Alice Kriemler-Schoch, who began by creating embroidered aprons on her home sewing machine. The Akris recipe for perfection is demystified in a beautiful new book by Valerie Steele (Assouline), with 150 stunning images that display the majesty of Akris’s sartorial strengths. The current creative director and Alice’s grandson, Albert Kriemler, talks about the importance of
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creating clothes women actually want to wear—a quality that is rare among designers, and even rarer among male designers. “It is not enough that clothes should look beautiful or interesting,” says Kriemler. “They need to feel good, to be wearable and modern.” Akris’s looks exude power, sleekness, and effortless beauty. They are uncluttered and never distract from the body of the wearer, fulfilling that elusive desire of the modern woman to be admired, but also taken seriously. Tailoring is approached with similar nuance and skill.“Wearing a good item of clothing is a little bit like inhabiting it,” Kriemler explains, a philosophy akin to the way architecture
Co u r te sy o f As so u li n e
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This page: Daphne Guinness in a double-face cotton folded-lapel coat with a horsehair Al bag. > Opposite: A sketch of a lontra jersey dress and Al bag for Albert Kriemlerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Resort 2012 collection.
This page: Evening dress with sheer turtleneck bodice embellished with intricate organza superposé floral embroidery; Valerie Steele’s new book, Akris, published by Assouline and available at assouline.com. > Opposite, left to right: Albert Kriemler’s costumes for “The Legend of Joseph”; Akris’s embroidery archive; Akris is widely renowned for its
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is approached. Lines, contours, and silhouettes are sleek and feminine without any fuss, opting instead for understated patterns and striking photo prints. A particularly poignant example is the 2009-2010 Trapezoid Collection, which featured a squat “A” shape—in a sense, a very subtle logo for Akris—that recurred in the shape of silhouettes, in embroidered dresses, and in quilted jackets. But perhaps Akris is best understood in the wide range of women who have worn its fabrics, a diverse crowd that includes Condoleezza Rice and Angelina Jolie. “Fashion should not tell a woman who she is,” says Kriemler. Akris has created a brand that modern women can reinvent as their own, showcasing their individuality and refinement without any distraction. u
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This page: Akrisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trapeze jacket of white cheklang fur, from the Fall-Winter 2006-2007 ad campaign. > Opposite: Akris has built its reputation on sleek silhouettes that, for the modern woman, can transition
Co u r te sy o f As so u li n e
easily from day to night.
C o u r te sy o f Asso u lin e
This page: Akrisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wool sheath dress with side zip was inspired by a photo print of The Wedding Tower (right). > Opposite page: The Tower, located in Darmstadt, Germany, was designed by Austrian architect Joseph Maria Olbrich. Inset: Albert Kriemler with models in Akrisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fall 2010-2011 collection.
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Billy Fa rre ll/ BFAn yc. co m
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The emerging Vietnamese-American fashion photographer An Le was recently recognized as the NEW EXPOSURE up-and-coming talent, at the tender age of 22! The event was hosted at Milk Studios by Vogue, Bottega Veneta, and Red Digital Camera after judges had selected An Le from about 500 contestants. The NEW EXPOSURE prize package includes $10,000, a RED Epic-X camera package, a one-year mentorship with Management Artists photo agency, and the opportunity to shoot an editorial campaign for Italian designer Bottega Veneta. FĂŠlicitations!
1. An Le and Anne Vincent 2. Atmosphere 3. Malerie MacDonald and Andrew Fry 4. Stewart Shining, Kelly Klein, and Benjamin Bashein 5. Ashley Platt and Lauren Remington Platt 6. Anouck Lepere 7. Melanie Lazenby and Clay Floren
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The Costume Council of the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (or LACMA) celebrated the Western Costume Company and its collection, which dates from the beginning of Hollywood. Sponsored by City National Bank, the event included an introduction by Western Costume Company’s president, Eddie Marks, a panel discussion with experts from the industry, and a pageant featuring 42 recreations of iconic costumes, including one of Scarlet O’Hara’s dresses from Gone With the Wind, with originals from Titanic and The Artist also on display.
1. Francisco George and Jeremy Scott 2. Atmosphere 3. Kathleen Coltman 4. Aaron Rubin 5. Leandra Mcpartlan-Karol 6. Denise Shoemaker and Deborah Kim 7. Lisa Berman 8. Janie Bryant
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Shelter Island
In June, Harry Winston celebrated the birth of its latest wrist-bound offspring: The Ocean Sport Collection. The watch resembles a Sheik-chic interpretation of a futuristic hockey puck, crafted out of a metal that carries a ™ symbol. “It’s called Zalium™. We created an alloy of aluminum and zirconium,” explained Tom Dwyer of Harry Winston. “Woah,” we said in our best Keanu Reeves. Paul Sevigny pumped “Moon River” over the party, Andre Saraiva picked up some spray paint and went to work on a wall, revealing a playful marriage between his signature tag and the posh HW logo. —Ted Gushue
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1. Paul Sevigny 2. Alessandra Codinha and Dan Miller 3. Hilary Rhoda and Ted Gushue 4. Graham Albert and Chloe Malle 5. Annabelle Dexter-Jones and Andre Saraiva 6. Derek Blasberg and Cesar Casier
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COAST TO COAST Massachusetts
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Nantucket
On a beautiful starlit night in July, a crowd of twenty- and thirty-somethings traveled from near and far dressed in their finest to attend the Summer Soirée in Nantucket. Celebrating its fifth year, the event chose the Boys & Girls Club of Nantucket as its charity of choice. Founded in 2008 by Tamara Greenman, the Summer Soirée has become known as the party to attend on the lovely island of Nantucket. Bonobos was the official sponsor of the night, with additional sponsorship from Jack Robie, Henley & Sloane, and WhatsUpTucket.
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1. Atmosphere 2. John Churchill, Jared Greenman, Tamara Greenman, Jamie Lynch, Jennifer Horne, and Betsy Wheeler 3. Zach Trudeau, John Lockwood, PJ Farrenkopf, David Sullivan, and Teddy Callahan 4. Nick Lazares, Lauren Schmidt, RIchard Scioli, James Bohannon, Nader Golsorkhi, and Jacki Smith 5. Matthew Gunn and Jaqueline Sager.
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BEAUTY Body
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woman without an awkard phase. The CelluDestock contains caffeine and Lipocidine, which promotes the breakdown of fatty tissue; $39.50. 3. diptyque paris Volutes is a smoky, sophisticated scent that’s perfect for a crisp day; $88. 4. bliss The “High-Intensity 24-Heaven” balm is designed to hydrate with ingredients like lactic acid and oatmeal; $35. 5. fresh This exfoliating soap buffs your skin, nourishing with seaberry oil; $16.50. 6. fekkai This “PrX Reparatives” mask strengthens hair, providing up to 98 percent less breakage; $49. 7. sachajuan The “Silver” shampoo ($28) and “Silver” conditioner ($30) correct the brassy tones that result from coloring your hair. 8. warm From California via the Warm store at 181 Mott Street, a signature fragrance that smells like the best of the beach; $40. 9. penhaligon’s london Peoneve—the latest from the parfumerie, which was established in 1870—is reminiscent of an English garden, with notes of vetiver and violet; $120. 2. vichy laboratoires
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has defined beauty since the mid-1990s. What Would Kate Moss Do? 2. sonia kashuk for target Two brushes from the five-piece set, available at Target or Target.com; $14.99. 3. chanel An eyeshadow from the “Ombre Essentielle” collection in complice, or soft peach; $28.50. 4. Sunday Riley With ingredients like black cumin seed oil and cranberry seed oil, the “Juno” serum offers a blend of omegas; $125. 5. burberry beauty The “Velvet” foundation, inspired by the brand’s iconic trench coat; $55. 6. circ-cell This product, made with meadowfoam seed oil and geothermal clay from the Arctic Circle, can be used alternatingly as a cleanser or mask; $35. 7. lush The “Liquid Lips” from the “Emotional Brilliance” collection are bold in pigment and soft in feel; $22.95. 8. zelens skin science Available at Space.NK, the “PHA+ Bio-Peel” pads promote exfoliation without irritation; $85. 9. erno laszlo new york The “pHormula 3-9” serum boosts collagen and elastin production, increasing cell metabolism; $265. 1. kate moss
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With fall comes a return to a busy social calendar, full
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of evening galas and charity benefits. This season, why not return to a bit of old-time glamour when dolling up in strapless gowns and your finest baubles? 1. marilyn monroe was known for, among other things, her curvy figure and the aura of quiet mystery that seemed to envelope her. But she could also sing, as she famously did for American troops overseas and President John F. Kennedy, for whom she performed â&#x20AC;&#x153;Happy Birthdayâ&#x20AC;? on May 19, 1962. 2. tiffany & co. The Tiffany diamond and aquamarine bracelet set in platinum. Price upon request. 3. ralph lauren Reign over the evening in a regal color, like this silk fuchsia gown from Ralph Lauren Collection. $3,998. 4. byt by fiona kotur Handbag maestra Fiona Kotur is at it again with a new collection for Nine West. Pick up this Freida clutch at exclusive Nine West stores. $150. 5. l.k. bennett The Alanise metallic leather heel in plum. $395.
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1 founded his famous house in 1952, designing clothing for Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s and Sabrina, as well as for members of the Guinness and Kennedy families. 2. Roger vivier Be daring with Roger Viver’s Pilgrim Palmettes evening bag, a black velvet clutch with gold and silver sequin embroidery. $2,125. 3. oscar de la renta The American master of the evening gown, Oscar de la Renta, doesn’t disappoint with this stunning strapless embellished-bodice dress previewed for Resort 2013. 4. stuart weitzman Let Stuart Weitzman carry you through it all in his HiRise heels in adobe satin. $596. 5. van cleef & Arpels The Loup Diamants Décor earrings from Van Cleef & Arpels’ Bals de Legende collection feature round, pear-shaped, and baguette-cut diamonds and white cultured pearls, all set in 18-kt. white gold. Price upon request.
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1 arrived at the Victoria Derby in Melbourne, Australia, wearing a mini dress without stockings, shocking onlookers—and launching a trend. The British beauty wasn’t always so avante garde, however; her style and appeal, in fact, endure through today. 2. l.k. bennett British sensation L.K. Bennett recently landed this side of the pond, just in time for you to snag the Posy bag in hot pink mirrored leather. $495. 3. christian dior If you’re looking to wow them, look no further than the Magdalena gown from the haute house of Christian Dior, in navy silk organza and tulle. $17,000. 4. marina b Based off of sketches by Marina Bulgari herself, Marina B’s jaw-dropping Ageco earrings are crafted in 18-kt. yellow gold, diamonds, blue topaz, amethyst, citrine, peridot, and pink tourmaline. $25,000.
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1. brigitte bardot was one of the greatest sex symbol of the 1960s, which means, of course, that she never had a problem filling out a dress (or being her own best accessory). When not sunning on the shores of St.-Tropez, Bardot could be counted on to dress it up to the nines. 2. montblanc Slip on Montblanc’s Star Spell ring and add a touch of geometric fun to your fingertips. $375. 3. naeem khan Add a little pizzazz to your evening in Naeem Khan’s white and gold vine motif beaded georgette strapless gown. $9,980. 4. roger vivier Be queen of the night in Roger Vivier’s Palace Gold Sequins, in black satin with all-over gold sequins. $1,995. 5. roberto coin Your neckline will thank you for Roberto Coin’s Frizzante necklace in 18-kt. rose gold and three rows of dazzling diamonds. $150,000.
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SHOPPING INDEX
> Blair Husain Jewelry: 917.975.6135 or blairhusain.com. > Bloomingdale’s: 800.777.0000 or bloomingdales.com. > Bottega Veneta: 212.371.5511 or bottegaveneta.com. > Bulgari: 800.BVGLARI or bulgari.com. > Burberry Prorsum: 877.217.6125 or burberry.com. > BYT by Fiona Kotur: At select Nine West stores or ninewest.com.
C > Calvin Klein: 866.513.0513 or calvinklein.com. > Carolina Herrera: 212.249.6552 or carolinaherrera.com. > Cartier: 212.446.3400 or cartier.com. > Chanel: 800.550.0005 or chanel.com. > Charlotte Ronson: 212.789.9606 or charlotteronson.com. > Chloe: 212.717.8220 or chloe.com. > Christian Dior: 212.249.5822 or dior.com. > Christian Louboutin: 212.396.1884 or christianlouboutin.com.
D > David Yurman: 877.908.1177 or
Bergdorf Goodman has always been iconic of New York shopping. In any decade, the storefront and its celebrated window displays call out to tourists and fashionistas alike. In this 1938 photograph, women can be seen browsing one of the store’s Surrealistic window displays. This fall, Bergdorf Goodman is celebrating its 111th anniversary. Whether you’re shopping (maybe lunching?) at the fabled store or strolling up Madison, be sure to check out these designers from our pages.
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davidyurman.com. > de Grisogono: 212.439.4220 or degrisogono.com. > Devi Kroell: 212.644.4499 or devikroell.com.
> alice + olivia by Stacey Bendet: aliceandolivia.com.
> Dennis Basso: 212.794.4500 or
> Angel Sanchez: angelsanchezusa.com.
dennisbasso.com.
> Asprey: 212.688.1811 or asprey.com.
> Dolce & Gabbana: 212.249.4100 or
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> Barneys New York: 888.222.7639 or barneys.com.
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> BCBG Max Azria: 888.636.BCBG or bcbg.com.
> Elie Saab: eliesaab.com.
> Bergdorf Goodman: 888.774.2424 or
> Elie Tahari: 212.334.4441 or elietahari.com.
bergdorfgoodman.com.
> Etro: 212.317.9096 or etro.it.
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SHOPPING INDEX
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> Marco Bicego: At Neiman Marcus or
> Fabergé: 646.559.8848 or 694 Madison Ave.
marcobicego.com.
> Rolex: 800.36.ROLEX or rolex.com.
> Mark Cross: 212.288.1180 or markcross1845.
S
> Marina B: 212.644.1155 or marinab.com.
> Sailormade: 646.580.5120 or
> Giorgio Armani: 877.361.1176 or armani.com.
> Marni: 212.343.3912 or marni.com.
sailormadeusa.com.
> Gucci: 877.482.2430 or gucci.com.
> Max Mara: 212.879.6100 or maxmara.com.
> Saks Fifth Avenue: 877.551.SAKS or
> Michael Bastian: At Bergdorf Goodman,
saksfifthavenue.com.
Saks Fifth Avenue, or michaelbastiannyc.com.
> Salvatore Ferragamo: 866.908.1188 or
> H.Stern: 800.7HSTERN or hstern.net.
> Michael Kors: 800.908.1157 or michaelkors.com.
ferragamo.com.
> Harry Winston: harrywinston.com.
> Mikimoto: 212.457.4600 or mikimotoamerica.com.
> Sandro: 855.230.SMCP or us.sandro-paris.com.
> Hermès: 800.441.4488 or hermes.com.
> Milly: 212.921.7800 or millyny.com.
> Sequin: 561.833.7300 or sequin-nyc.com.
> Hunter Boot: hunter-boot.com.
> Miu Miu: miumiu.com.
> St. John: 877.908.1171 or discoverstjohn.com.
> Montblanc: 212.223.8888 or montblanc.com.
> Stone Island: stoneisland.com.
G
H
I > Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry: 212.756.9912 or
N
ivankatrumpcollection.com.
> Naeem Khan: 212.575.1173 or naeemkhan.com.
> Stuart Weitzman: 212.823.9560 or stuartweitzman.com.
> Nancy Gonzalez: At Bergdorf Goodman or
T
nancygonzalez.com.
> Tibi: 212.966.3773 or tibi.com.
> J. Mendel: 212.832.5830 or jmendel.com.
> Nanette Lepore: At Bloomingdale’s.
> Tiffany & Co.: 561.659.6090 or tiffany.com.
> J.Crew: 800.562.0258 or jcrew.com.
> Neiman Marcus: 800.533.1312 or
> Tod’s: 650 Madison Ave.,
> Jil Sander: 800.704.7317 or jilsander.com.
neimanmarcus.com.
212.644.5945, or tods.com.
J
> Jimmy Choo: 866.JCHOO.US or jimmychoo.com.
K
O > Oscar de la Renta: 888.782.6357 or
> Tom Ford: 212.359.0300 or tomford.com. > Tory Burch: 866.480.TORY or toryburch.com.
> Kate Spade: 866.999.KATE or katespade.com.
oscardelarenta.com.
> Katie Ermilio: katieermilio.com.
> Ovadia & Sons: ovadiaandsons.com.
L
P
> L.K. Bennett: 212.201.1961, 10 Columbus Circle, or
> Paul Morelli: 212.247.4100 or paulmorelli.com.
vancleef-arpels.com.
lkbennett.com.
> Prabal Gurung: 646.351.6199 or prabalgurung.com.
> VBH: 212.717.9800 or vbh-luxury.com.
> Lanvin: 646.439.0381 or lanvin.com.
> Prada: 888.977.1900 or prada.com.
> Versace: 888.721.7219 or versace.com.
R
W
> Ralph Lauren: 888.475.7674 or
> Wempe: 212.397.9000 or wempe.com.
> Manolo Blahnik: 212.582.3007 or
ralphlauren.com.
> Whiting + Davis: whitinganddavis.com.
manoloblahnik.com.
> Rebecca Taylor: 888.485.6738 or rebeccataylor.com.
> Marc Jacobs: 212.343.1490 or
> Roberto Coin: At Neiman Marcus or Roberto Coin,
Y
marcjacobs.com.
800.853.5958 and us.robertocoin.com.
> Yigal Azrouël: 212.929.7525 or
> Marchesa: At Neiman Marcus and
> Roger & Gallett: roger-gallet.com.
yigal-azrouel.com.
Saks Fifth Avenue, 877.551.SAKS or saks.com.
> Roger Vivier: 212.861.5371 or rogervivier.com.
> Yves Saint Laurent: 212.832.7100 or ysl.com.
> Louis Vuitton: 866.VUITTON or vuitton.com.
M
V > Valentino: 212.722.6969 or valentino.com. > Van Cleef & Arpels: 877.VANCLEEF or
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Must-Have Fall Jackets 1. Elizabeth quinn brown, associate editor After years and years of wearing a Barbour, I'm looking for something new. This puffer with fur by Moncler looks toasty, and I love the color! 2. jihad harkeem, intern I was fortunate enough to get my first Barbour from my English teacher at Avon Old Farms Academy. Although there are a bunch of rips and tears, I like it just the way it is. I could've gotten it repaired, but then I wouldn't have been able to tell people that I had a fight with a bear. 3. chris meigher, publisher and ceo My field jacket from L.L. Bean, of courseâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;been shooting in it for over 40 years! 4. stefan doyno, assistant editor Burberry's trench coats are my fall staple. You can wear them in formal or casual settings, and they're a perfect fit for those cold and rainy days. 5. lily hoagland, executive editor The military styling of this Burberry jacket complements the feminine embroidery for a look that's on trend this fall. 6. james stoffel, creative director As much cooler weather sets in, I like to gear up in Patagonia and enjoy the bold autumn colors along the trails. 7. Valerie fox, art director Fall is the time to be colorful and, in my vintage burgundy pea coat, I feel like I'm in harmony with the season. 8. daniel cappello, fashion director I have my eye on everything Belstaff is doing for fall, including this leather motorcycle jacket with some of the greatest detailing you'll see all season. 9. elizabeth meigher, editor I just love this classic from Barbour for fall!
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