Q Fall 2014

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FALL CLASSICS

CANDICE BERGEN PHOTOGRAPHED BY FRANCESCO SCAVULLO, 1964

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42 THE LEGEND OF MARLENE DIETRICH Our intrepid chronicler Liz Smith takes a look as only she can at another legend this issue with an examination of the exotic, glamorous German actress and singer Marlene Dietrich.

52 SUITS TO SHEARLING, FALL’S TRENDS Elizabeth Meigher and Alex R. Travers hit the runways and report back on the trends. Follow along as Meigher and Travers pick up on a comprehensive compendium of colors and Fall 2014’s fascination with shearling, which covered the catwalks.

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60 HOLLYWOOD IN A WHOLE NEW LIGHT Daniel Cappello talks with the much-buzzed-about fashion and portrait photographer Claiborne Swanson Frank as she publishes her second book, Young Hollywood (Assouline).

66 SNEAKING IN FOR THE SHOT Elio Sorci was one of the first and most successful of the paparazzi, capturing his subjects—from Audrey Hepburn and Cary Grant to Ted Kennedy and Tina Turner—with surprising speed. Daniel Cappello weighs in on a new book that illustrates Sorci’s career.

72 THE KING OF PANTS Alex R. Travers profiles designer Alvin Valley’s past and present—and how the “King of Pants” is maintaining his reign in New York society.

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80 FAMILY LEGACIES HELD IN HAND Salvatore Ferragamo launches the second chapter of L’Icona, debuting a line of handbags named in honor of Fiamma Ferragamo that, as Daniel Cappello reports, are being clutched by some of today’s biggest style-setters with family legacies of their own.

86 NEW YORK FASHION WEEK FASHION IN REVIEW Alex R. Travers reviews some of the most talked-about shows for Spring 2015, including Polo Ralph Lauren, Carolina Herrera, Dennis Basso, and Wes Gordon.

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C O V E R Candice Bergen photographed by Francesco Scavullo, 1964. © Condé Nast Archive/Corbis

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27 NOSTALGIA From football huddles to Parisian bistros, a look at some beautiful scenes from falls past.

30 JEWELRY Tiffany & Co.’s stunning tassel pendant, Harry Winston’s glistening Glacier watch, Roberto Coin’s Sugar Loaf ring... We’ve rounded up some of the season’s best pieces.

32 STYLISH COVER UPS With our selection of coats, you’ll actually be happy that the thermostat is starting to drop.

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34 BEST FOOT FORWARD We promise to have you jumping for joy over our latest offering of new shoes.

36 HIGH-GEAR ACCESSORIES For men: Bond. James Bond. For women: Jean Shrimpton. Find out how our icons inspired this exciting list of gear and gadgets.

38 THE BEST IN FALL BAGS Tyler Alexandra has a new line of handbags out that we’re just mad for.

40 MEN’S APPAREL It’s all about bold prints and patterns for the fashionable guy finding his footing this season.

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94 Q FOCUS A look at fashionable parties everywhere—from a book signing for Dinner Diaries to a luncheon honoring Carolina Herrera and a Ralph Lauren Polo show in Central Park.

104 BEAUTY Keep the winter blues at bay and your skin glowingly fresh with our roundup of the latest beauty products.

106 EVENING LOOKS It’s black-tie season in New York City.

See the gowns and accessories we have in mind for fall.

110 SHOPPING INDEX To help you on your fashion journey, a listing of where to buy the looks featured in our pages.

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112 HOROSCOPES It’s the season of Sagittarius and Capricorn, but the question is whether Mercury is in retrograde...

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ELIZABETH MEIGHER

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

EDITOR

JAMES STOFFEL CREATIVE DIRECTOR

LILY HOAGLAND EXECUTIVE EDITOR

ELIZABETH QUINN BROWN FEATURE S EDITOR

ALEX TRAVERS A SSOCIATE FA SHION EDITOR

DANIEL CAPPELLO FA SHION DIRECTOR

VALERIA FOX ART DIRECTOR

HILARY GEARY SOCIET Y EDITOR

JOANNA BAKER CO-FOUNDING EDITOR

Quest Media, LLC. S. CHRISTOPHER MEIGHER III CHAIRMAN AND C.E.O.

KATHLEEN SHERIDAN A SSI STANT TO THE C.E.O.

ARLENE LEFKOE ACCOUNTING MANAGER BOARD OF ADVISORS

BRUCIE BOALT EDWARD LEE CAVE BARBARA CORCORAN JED H. GARFIELD CLARK HALSTEAD HOWARD LORBER PAMELA LIEBMAN ELIZABETH STRIBLING ROGER W. TUCKERMAN PETER TURINO WILLIAM LIE ZECKENDORF SARAH BETH SHRAGER 917.576.1217 NEW YORK

BINA GUPTA 852.2868.1555 HONG KONG

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

ELIZABETH KURPIS LIZ SMITH TAKI THEODORACOPULOS MICHAEL THOMAS CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

DREW ALTIZER HARRY BENSON BILLY FARRELL PATRICK MCMULLAN CLINT SPAULDING BEN FINK SHAPIRO LINDA LANE SOPER 612.308.4159 PALM BEACH

EMILIO ZERBONI 011.39.031.267.797 MILAN

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EDITOR’S LETTER

bonfires. Although I am no longer a happy co-ed headed off to campus, the moment the sun crosses the equator with the autumnal equinox, everything suddenly seems to exude a discernable collegiate feel. No matter the sport, team, or occasion, nothing beats a fully stocked tailgate among friends. And even though each season brings a new take on fashion, what defines fall style hardly changes: a neutral palette of tailored herringbone and tweed, camel coats, refined knits, laidback layers, and an approach that’s polished without being fussy. Throughout time, various women have nailed this look.

Think Ali MacGraw in Love Story, Jane Birkin’s mod shifts and wide-leg trousers, all things Jackie O, and ladylike tomboy Candice Bergen. We chose the latter as our Fall Q cover girl. Francesco Scavullo photographed Bergen in 1964 when she was enrolled at the University of Pennsylvania. Wearing a taupe raincoat and pants by Cuddlecoat, with pigskin gloves by Kay Fuchs, the young Bergen epitomizes chic, holding a sleek Weimaraner that perfectly matches her ensemble.

In between college studies, Bergen worked as a Ford model in order to buy cameras for her passion—photography.

Bergen never graduated from UPenn and went on to follow a career in acting that started off slowly in the late ’60s and ’70s. During that time, she found a thriving second career as a photographer and photojournalist, with a number of her works appearing in Life, Playboy, and Esquire. Although Bergen was elegantly positioned for popular “ice-princess” stardom when she first arrived on the silver screen, she gradually reshaped her débutante image both on and off camera.

A steadfast, opinionated feminist with a decisive edge, Bergen went on to take these contradicting attributes to film and, most recognizably, to television in the late 1980s.

Q Contributor Liz Smith offers an insightful look at another ladylike tomboy, German actress and singer Marie Magdalene “Marlene” Dietrich. The enigmatic star, known for her exotic look and “bedroom eyes,” remained popular throughout her long career by continually reinventing herself, both professionally and characteristically. In 1999, the American Film Institute named Dietrich the ninth-greatest female star of all time.

Another star walks among us, Quest and Q fashion director Daniel Cappello. Cappello released The Ivy League (Assouline) two years ago and was recently fêted for his new book, Dinner Diaries: Reviving the Art of the Hostess Book (Assouline), at a well-attended party featured in this issue. For Fall Q, Cappello writes on two well-known photographers: Elio Sorci, the original Italian paparazzo who pursued and captured candid photos of Old Hollywood’s elite (Brigitte Bardot, Elizabeth Taylor, and Audrey Counterclockwise, from top right: Brigitte Bardot photographed by Hepburn, to name a few), and stylist and portrait photographer Elio Sorci while filming in Fiesole, Tuscany, 1962; Cody Horn phoClaiborne Swanson Frank, who captures Hollywood’s budding tographed by Claiborne Swanson Frank for Young Hollywood; Tom stars in her latest book, Young Hollywood (Assouline). Daniel also Ford “Milena” sunglasses; a look from Carolina Herrera’s Spring delivers an account of Ferragamo’s Fiamma handbag collection, 2015 collection; Diane von Furstenberg at age 26 in Central Park a new line inspired by the different female generations of the wearing her first dress in the first print she designed; Dior sky Ferragamo family. We are very proud of Daniel and happy to name blue gloves; cabochon cuff by Dior; Kick Kennedy modeling Alvin him among Q’s list of distinguished contributors. u Valley’s designs; Chloé’s medium Drew Saddle Bag.

ELIZABETH MEIGHER EDITOR

Bu r t G li n n / Ma gn u m Ph o to s

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CONTRIBUTORS

Liz Smith > Liz calls herself the 2,000-year-old gossip columnist.

These days she’s been having fun with her website, which features 20 famous women: WowOWow.com (aimed at the largest demographic coming on the web—women who weren’t born yesterday!). In her latest column for Q, Liz takes a look at the career and life of Marlene Dietrich, one of Berlin’s most well-known, notorious stage stars and Hollywood actress who appeared in acclaimed films such as Shanghai Express (1932) and Desire (1936). “If longevity makes the greatest stars,” writes Liz, “Marlene is right up there with the greatest.”

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Alex R. Travers > Gimlet-eyed and eager, Alex picked out some of the top trends from the most recent runway collections. “Today, people own these clothes and accessories five minutes after they hit the runways, sometimes before the shows even start,” he said. “It’s exciting to know that people will be sporting these spring looks this fall.” He also reviewed six fashion shows for this issue (pg. 86), along with over 15 for questmag.com. “These shows are often very smart and they absorb so much of what I love—art, music, travel...”

Alex Travers is the associate fashion editor of Quest and Q.

94 Elizabeth Quinn Brown > is the features editor of Quest and Q, where she also acts as beauty editor. For this issue, she offers the best in new beauty products while reporting on the scene for Q Focus and reading the stars and stuff for Horoscopes (watch out, dear Gemini). When she isn’t testing products on her bottle-blonde hair, she covers events for the “Young and the Guest List” column in Quest and goes to New York Rangers games wearing a Chris Kreider shirt. She lives in the East Village, where she enjoys eating People’s Pops and dancing to the Grease soundtrack at Niagara.

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42 < Daniel Cappello As the fashion director of Quest and Q, Daniel keeps an eye out for beautiful things, which led him to his stories for this issue. Two of his pieces are photog-focussed— one on the original paparazzo of the elusive Hollywood elite, Elio Sorci; the other on the budding chronicler of young Hollywood, Claiborne Swanson Frank. Daniel also gets a handle on Ferragamo’s Fiamma handbag collection, while Q catches up with him at the silver-plated party celebrating his latest book, Dinner Diaries: Reviving the Art of the Hostess Book (published by Assouline).

86 < Patrick McMullan The premiere nightlife photographer in New York City, longtime Quest and Q contributor Patrick McMullan’s work appears regularly in New York, Allure, Interview, Details, Paper, Hamptons, and Ocean Drive. A contributing editor at Vanity Fair, McMullan’s book, Kiss Kiss, is a compilation of over 1,000 black-and-white and color images from his vast body of work, capturing the famous, the infamous, the beautiful, the talented, and everyone in between puckering up. Said the late, great Andy Warhol, “If you don’t know Patrick McMullan, you ought to get out more!”.

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An old-school fall football huddle.

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This page: 1. Marianne Faithfull and Anita Pallenberg at Heathrow Airport before flying to Tangiers with their Rolling Stones boyfriends, 1967. 2. Models wearing Christian Dior, 1969.

3. Gloria Vanderbilt with her sons Anderson Cooper and Carter Vanderbilt Cooper in Southampton, New York, circa 1969. 4. Dartmouth in the fall of 1962. 5. A bistro in Paris, photographed by Pierre Boulat, 1968. 6. Prince Charles and Princess Diana, 1981. > Opposite: 1. Prince Rainier and wife Grace Kelly walking with their children (from left: Caroline, Stephanie, and Albert in, Marchais, France, 1973. 2. Steve McQueen, 1968. 3. Diane von Furstenberg, age 26, with her children in Central Park. 4. Ali MacGraw and Ryan Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Neal in Love Story.

5. Mick Jagger, Keith Richards, and Anita Pallenberg at London Airport, 1968. 6. A fall picnic. 7. One of the first collections from British designer Caroline Charles, circa 1963.

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D ove / E x pre ss / Ge tt y Im a ge s; C or bi s ; Evere t t C ol le cti o n ; B ur t G li n n / Ma gn u m P h ot os

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2 Babe Paley wanted to create a picture-perfect social world, one that could be as elegant as her vast wardrobes (it’s said she often bought entire haute couture collections from major fashion houses like Givenchy and Valentino). There was one thing Paley did particularly well, however: the high-low mix. She often paired extravagant jewelry by Fulco di Verdura and Jean Schlumberger with costume pieces. Her personal style was inspirational to thousands of women.

Many tired to copy her, others were simply inspired by the idea. And this is what we’re after, so mix and match and have a blast!

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3 1. HARRY WINSTON With 422 baguette-cut diamonds, it’s no wonder this watch is named the Glacier; price upon request. 2. VHERNIER The Pirouette ring in silver and pink gold; $1,370. 3. PHILLIPS HOUSE The black gold, blue sapphire Vibrant Affair hanging petal earrings; $5,500. 4. ROBERTO COIN The Sugarloaf Ring in 18-kt. white gold with sapphire, blue topaz, and green garnet; $9,120. 5. TIFFANY & CO. Try on some color: the turquoise and onyx tassel pendant with diamonds in platinum; $75,000. 6. IVANKA TRUMP FINE JEWELRY The Athénée Elongated Ring with aquamarine and diamonds in 18-kt. white gold; $3,200. 7. WEMPE The Blu Intermezzo BY KIM necklace; $41,975.

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Diana Vreeland had a way with words: “You gotta have style,” she said. “It helps you get down the stairs. It helps you get up in the morning. It’s a way of life. Without it, you’re nobody.” It’s an expression to live by. Vreeland’s passion for life was incorrigible. In fact, the perennial fashion favorite believed that you could make yourself as interesting—or as fabulous—as you wanted. We agree. And what better than jewelry to help accessorize your one-of-a-kind style or show off a bit of your glamorous side. Flair. Pizzazz. Fun. It’s all here. Enjoy!

1. OSCAR DE LA RENTA The designer’s love for gardening is in full bloom with the jeweled leaf necklace; $995. 2. TORY BURCH The Wide Leather Inlay Cuff; $195. 3. LUCIFER VIR HONESTUS The pink gold and tourmaline ring; price upon request. 4. SEAMAN SCHEPPS The gold link bracelet with cabochon and faceted ruby, emeralds, sapphire, and pink and yellow sapphires with pavé diamond clasp set in 18-kt. yellow gold; $87,000. 5. DIOR Be the proud owner of a Dior runway piece; price upon request. 6. SAINT VINTAGE Light up your look with the Petite Fleur bracelet; $125. 7. PATRICIA PECKINPAUGH Try on these Classic Gothic Earrings in 24-kt.-plated brass; $600.

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Jacqueline Kennedy, arguably the most fashionable first lady, loved to support creative adventures. Whether it was painting or fashion, helping to promote the arts was one of her greatest passions.

And she always looked good doing it. Her style could be witty or simply elegant. So if you’re searching for a smart, diverse range of looks this season, be sure to pick up one—or all—of our favorite coats.

1. CARVEN Aim for one-of-a-kind style in the rhinestone arrow double-breasted wool coat; $2,200. 2. 3.1 PHILLIP LIM The shearling aviator jacket; $2,900.

3. PREEN Channel Jacqueline Kennedy’s graceful style with the Skylar coat; $2,065 at net-a-porter.com. 4. ALTUZARRA Show off your artistic side with the Balthus wrap jacket; $1,995. 5. ALEXANDER WANG The cargo-pocket car coat has a place for every gadget; $1,595. 6. BOTTEGA VENETA The croc-intarsia shearling coat; $9,200. 7. DRIES VAN NOTEN Dazzle everyone around you with this optic hand-painted wool coat; $2,540.

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Treating Individuals, Not Disorders An interview with Patricia Harteneck, PhD, Senior Psychologist at the Seleni Institute, a mental health and wellness center for women on Manhattan’s Upper East Side.

What’s unique about Seleni? What distinguishes you from others in the field?

At the Seleni Institute we treat individuals, not disorders, by providing a 360-degree approach to relationship, reproductive, and maternal mental health issues. From individual therapy and psychiatry to acupuncture and massage to workshops and moms’ groups, our breadth of services and unique, collaborative environment make Seleni Institute the only center of its kind in New York City.

Have you noticed any trends in terms of what clients are seeking or talking about?

We support our clients through a tremendous range of issues, but currently many of our clients come to us as they manage the normal challenges of raising their family, whether it’s navigating professional and home life, resolving conflicts with a spouse, or even coping with “empty nesting.”

What’s the most rewarding part of your job?

Therapy is all about taking control of your life and moving it forward in a positive direction. That begins with choosing a therapist you like. You are allowed to (and should) “couch shop.”

Ask friends for referrals or look at some professional profiles to get a feel for different therapists’ approaches.

I love seeing my clients grow! Therapy is such a positive way to develop self-knowledge and self-esteem, and it’s a pleasure to witness. Yes, we’ll identify old thoughts, feelings, and habits formed from past experiences, but we’ll focus on them only to learn new skills and ways to manage emotions moving forward. In therapy, you learn that self-awareness and self-love are not just words but emotional states worth the effort because they have such tremendous benefits.

When you decide to try a session, it’s understood that you are doing just that – trying it out. You should never feel pressured by someone to keep working with him or her. If you don’t feel comfortable in your first session, move on and try someone else.

Decades of research confirm that the best therapeutic work is rooted in a trusting connection between you and your therapist.

I’d likely be a yoga teacher because I love both the daily practice and the need to create a compassionate and empathic connection with students. The teacher both understands students’ capabilities and inspires and encourages them to move beyond their limitations.

What’s the most important thing women should consider when finding a therapist?

Get help at the Seleni Institute.

Call (212) 939-7200 or find us online at seleni.org/care.

If you were not a psychologist, what would you be, and why?

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1. PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI Sport some yellow with the Hale shoe; $465 at farfetch.com. 2. DSQUARED2 Sidestep the conventional heel with

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this new architectural style from Dsquared2’s Fall 2014 collection; price upon request. 3. MIU MIU Strap into these suede ankle-strap platform sandals and head out for a night on the town; $750. 4. DIOR You don’t have to give up style for comfort in Dior’s speedy rubber-soled pumps; price upon request.

5. GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI Sexy and chic: the soft suede ankle-strap platform pumps; $750. 6. PRADA This season, be sure to show off these halter-strap,

Best Foot Forward This jumping jeune fille, caught in mid-air by the photographer Melvin Sokolsky, proves that there’s nothing you can’t do in a fabulous pair of heels. Here at the Q offices in New York, we have a fortune cookie’s message taped to our scanner that reads: “Keep your heels and your standards high.” Hey, it may not be a fortune, but it’s good advice. And this season, we’re staying true to that mantra by offering up a few shoe options that should have you jumping for joy.

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peep-toe sandals; $735 at barneys.com. 6. GIORGIO ARMANI Add a flash of green to your look with new the Giorgio Armani suede pump; $745.

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Fall Shades Claudia Cardinale, the Tunisian-born actress who appeared in such timeless films as 8 1/2 and Once Upon a Time in the West, is a true style icon. Her dark eyes and explosive sex-bomb features make you want to cheer her on-screen exquisiteness. Pictured here with a pair of sunglasses dangling from her mouth, her beauty comes to full flower. Pick up a pair of these shades, and you might start to see the world through Cardinale’s eyes.

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1. FENDI For fun in the fall sun: The Fendi 0074/S model in rust Havana red; $465 at select Solstice Sunglasses stores. 2. KUBORAUM Artistic, avant-garde, alluring: Kuboraum’s Mask A2 with burnt silver chains is sure to make a statement this season; $720. 3. JEREMY TARIAN For a glimpse of the highlife, be sure to pick up a pair of these Highline sunglasses by Jeremy Tarian; $445 at Barneys New York (660 Madison Avenue) or Occhiali New York (1188 Lexington Avenue).

4. OLIVER GOLDSMITH Why not own a pair of Oliver Goldmsith’s Y-Not (1966) sunnies, the perfect fall accessory? $440 at barneys.com. 5. TOM FORD No one does sexy like Tom Ford—so, when you’re looking to channel Claudia Cardinale’s foxy style, put on a pair of Milenas; $360 at select Sunglass Hut locations or barneys.com.

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High-Gear Accessories

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Sean Connery carried himself with a self-possessed charm, the quintessential quality of James Bond. When Connery’s gun was taken from him in Dr. No, the agent asked, “Where were you fitted for this, bud?” Connery’s answer: “My tailor, Savile Row.” Witty.

That was his style. In his 30s, Connery was locking lips with Ursula Andress (Dr. No). Thirtysomething years later, he swooned Catherine Zeta-Jones (Entrapment). There was no woman he couldn’t wow. Which is why Connery is our man this season. And with Bond and his toys on the mind, we’ve compiled a list of gadgets and gear that will have you looking your most debonair this fall.

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1. HUNTON The XRS43 is a special kind of luxury performance boat; price upon request. 2. BARNEYS NEW YORK With this tartan compact umbrella, there’s no need to let the rain cramp your style; $235 at barneys.com.

3. MICHAEL KORS The Vintage Leather Portfolio; $368 at michaelkors.com.

4. LE LABO A Santal 26 candle—gentle, smoky, leathery—will give your space a true personality; $70. 5. THOM BROWNE Try on this pattern for fall: the wide awning stripe-pattern neck tie; $185. 6. ASPREY Show off your eye for style with the Fox cufflinks in sterling silver; $220 at Asprey, 853 Madison Avenue. 7. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA The Dress Belt; $250. 8. ASTON MARITN For the 21st-century Bond idol: the Centenary Vanquish; price upon request.

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ACCESSORIES

The Finer Things 1

Jean Shrimpton, one of the most sumptuous of Swinging London’s sex symbols, was a consummate cover girl. Considered to be one of the first supermodels, Shrimpton is a modern-day beauty barometer incarnate—a glowing goddess women will always look to for style inspiration. Time named her one of the most influential fashion icons of all time. No arguments on this end. Shrimpton was one of those bubbly Brits who knew how to dress and accessorize (check out her fun dragonfly brooch and chic, slightly oversized hat here). So if you’re looking for a few extra touches to help refine your look and lifestyle this fall, we have you covered.

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1. RAG & BONE Hats off to rag & bone for reviving a classic look with their wide-brim Fedora; $195. 2. NASON MORETTI Entertain in a new fashion with the multi-colored Burlesque glass set; $500. 3. DIOR Don’t frown at formality—try on these dove gray gloves by Dior; price upon request. 4. LA PERLA Look—and feel—sexy in the Maison Underwired Padded Bustier; $890. 5. FORNASETTI Let the Theme, Variations, and Colors large scented candle fill your room with beautiful aromas of thyme and lavender; $495. 6. ARMAND DIRADOURIAN As the weather cools down, cozy up to the stripe-pattern Moroccan throw; $295. 7. ROLEX The Oyster Perpetual Datejust in 18-kt. yellow gold with fluted bezel, mother of pearl diamond dial, and President bracelet; $31,200. 8. ALEXANDER WANG The Fumo Continental Wallet fits everything you’ll need; $495.

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HANDBAGS

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The Best In Fall Bags

1. TYLER ALEXANDRA The large Jamie Doctor in leather has recently been spotted on the arms of several front-row starlets at New York Fashion Week; $1,940 at tyleralexandra.com. 2. GIVENCHY The Nightingale Zanzi Satchel adds some cool color to your look; $2,040. 3. DIOR Fresh off the runway: Dior’s em-

Pattie Boyd—model, photographer, and actress—began her fash-

bellished handbag; price upon request. 4. CHLOÉ Cholé’s medium Drew Saddle

ion career in 1962, posing for the likes of David Bailey and Terence Donovan. In no time, she landed on the cover of Vogue. Then, in 2007, Boyd published her autobiography, Wonderful Tonight, which talks about her rock ‘n’ roll musedom. Here’s a mix of bags so you can look wonderful tonight—and tomorrow.

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Bag is sure to impress this season; $2,350. 5. CAMBRIDGE SATCHEL COMPANY Tote around your imporant things in the Mini Satchel in black and peach pink with pale gold components—you totes need it; $215. 6. MARNI Make all the girls go OMG with jealousy when you walk out with Marni’s newcolorblocked hobo bag on your arm; $1,310 at barneys.com

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S T Y L E CLUTCHES

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Clutch Onto These Grace Kelly always graces our pages. And rightly so. She personi-

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fies elegance, sophistication, and beauty. Whether playing a cat burglar in Alfred Hitchcock’s To Catch a Thief or showing off her high styles to Bing Crosby and Frank Sinatra in High Society, you can’t take your eyes off this alluring wonder. Perfection. That sums her look up in a word. Being the Princess of Monaco, Kelly’s frequent travels led her to some extraordinary places. So when you’re getting ready for a trip or an elegant night out on the town, keep Kelly’s look in mind. Pop in one of her movies. Study her style. Then take a pick from our selection of clutches and minaudières.

We promise you’ll feel like a princess, too.

1. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Cozy up to this fur folded clutch bag in black with silvertone chain shoulder stap; $1,395 at select Alexander McQueen stores. 2. J. MENDEL Perfect for both day or evening: J. Mendel’s Minuit minaudière; $2,200 at barneys.com. 3. JUDITH LEIBER Carry it all in style with Judith Leiber’s crystal Rectangle, fully beaded with Austrian crystals; $3,995 at bergdorfgoodman.com. 4. BOTTEGA VENETA A classic clutch in a new, bold color: the Inrecciato Placcato; $2,000 at barneys.com.

5. DEVI KROELL Look your best while holding onto something truly exotic: the Caryle clutch in Metallic Stingray; $2,900 at Devi Kroell, 717 Madison Avenue.

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M E N ’ S A P PA R E L

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1. VALENTINO Virgin wool suit ($2,300) and sweater ($980). 2. JOHN VARVATOS Wool suit ($2,200), vest ($498), and tie ($145). 3. BILLY REID Valence hoodie ($375), Harlem fur vest ($2,995), twill wool dress pant ($395). 4. BURBERRY Brown sueded sheepskin jacket ($5,500), dark camel geometric scarf ($950).

5. ETRO Cream and brown gingham wool jacket ($1,623) and trousers

A Matter Of Fall Pattern Mick Jagger has always marched to the beat of a different drummer, in both music and in clothes. While the 1960s were being swept up by The Beatles and their clean suits, Jagger was rolling along to a different punch, marked by skinny waists and outré designs. Almost 50 years later, the Rolling Stone has become the stuff of style legend, and now’s the time to take a lead from Mick and go bold with some of fall’s favorite textures and patterns.

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($689), gray cashmere turtleneck ($1,836), paisley printed scarf ($502).

6. GIEVES & HAWKES One of Britain’s most esteemed labels is now available at Bergdorf Goodman, including this brown houndstooth coat and cashmerewool double-breasted suit. 7. MICHAEL BASTIAN Houndstooth suit (price upon request), bamboo jacquard sweater ($1,295), bamboo jacquard scarf ($650).

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This page: Marlene Dietrich starring in Hitchcock’s Stage Fright, 1950. > Opposite page: Marlene Dietrich on the set of Stage Fright, wearing a Christian Dior design.

“Now we all might enjoy seeing Helen of Troy as a gay cabaret entertainer, but I doubt that she could be one quarter as good as our legendary, lovely Marlene!”

That was Noel Coward introducing his dear friend Miss Marlene Dietrich on the opening night of her London appearance at the Café de Paris in 1954. By the time Noel introduced Marlene—whose career as a “gay cabaret entertainer” was still fairly new—she had been famous in America since 1930 and The Blue Angel. Prior to that, she was one of Berlin’s most well-known, indeed notorious stage stars, and had made a name in a few silent films.

Dietrich would continue to fascinate the public well into the

The Legend Of Marlene Dietrich

by

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Liz Smith

1970s, when infirmity stopped her from maintaining concert work and her indelibly glamorous image. If longevity makes the greatest stars, Marlene is right up there with the greatest. But, of course, there were so many mysteries, fantasies, illusions wrapped around Dietrich—most created by the lady herself. And so many questions.

Was she an actress or merely a mannequin? Was she singer or an arch stylist? Was she a beauty or a figure of total artifice?

Did she crave men or women? Was it love of her work and Prussian discipline or sheer egomania that drove her on?

Few answers to these questions arose during Dietrich’s long life. She was never inclined to let the public in, and despite several massive biographies—including the deliciously

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“Travelling Light,” an oil painting of Marlene Dietrich by the artist Jo King, 2011. Of course, Dietrich never travelled light! Painting based on a 1948 photo by Cornel Lucas.

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mean-spirited tome written by her daughter, Maria Riva— Marlene remains marvelously enigmatic, but compellingly human. (Maxilliam Schell’s brutal, brilliant documentary, Marlene, is a testament to every aspect of her personality—raging, canny, witty, impatient, and, the end, tearfully sentimental!)

A much greater star than Garbo, in my opinion, if for no other reason than she continued to live and learn and expand her art. And she was fated to “live” instead of being tormented to merely “exist” like Garbo. The idea of a rootless, unemployed Marlene Dietrich, fleeing from paparazzi and living only to escape fame—an impossible task—is absurd.

As a human being, Marlene Dietrich had her flaws—who doesn’t? As an iconic goddess, a survivor, mistress of her image, she was and is non pareil.

Born Maria Magdelene Dietrich in 1901, the future movie goddess came from a well-to-do Berlin family. Her father was a police lieutenant, who died when Marlene (we’ll call her that from now on) was only six. She forever credited him with instilling discipline and a tireless work ethic.

Although young Marlene studied the violin and more serious aspects of music and theater, an injury to her wrist ended any thoughts of becoming a concert violinist—thank goodness! She became known as chorus girl, and soon graduated to leading roles in various stage shows. Berlin loved her legs and her languor, punctuated with an earthy girlishness. Berlin also loved her sexual ambiguity; she was linked to other female stars of the Berlin cabaret scene, even after she married Rudi Sieber and had a child, Maria.

Dietrich’s attitude toward her wedlock could be summed up in the Cole Porter ditty, “Always True to You (In My Fashion.” They would never divorce, Rudi would live most of his life with a mistress and Dietrich cut a sexual swath through Europe and Hollywood almost unmatched by any other star— Sinatra, Mike Todd, Yul Brynner, Mercedes de Acosta, perhaps Garbo, Eddie Fisher and on and on. But she dressed superbly, had a foreign accent and never took another woman’s husband or another husband’s woman—for long. In short, despite the stricter moral codes of the time, nobody thought of Dietrich as a slut.

In 1929, the esteemed movie director Josef von Sternberg caught one of Marlene’s stage performances. He claimed, then and later, to have been unimpressed. He lied. In fact, he was obsessed. He tested Dietrich for the role of the heartless, sluttish singer, Lola Lola in The Blue Angel.

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especially her German films. But Marlene was no fool. And she was 29. She knew time was not on her side.

The Blue Angel established Marlene Dietrich as a great star in Germany. More importantly, the film was seen by executives at Paramount Pictures in Hollywood. Her English was good enough to dub the film for American release. She traveled to Hollywood with von Sternberg, setting up a household, submitting to a strict diet, expert cosmetics, and von Sternberg’s lighting techniques, which would render Dietrich

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Above, clockwise from left: Portrait of Marlene Dietrich from the John Springer collection, circa 1935; Dietrich starring in Paramount’s The Song of Songs, 1933; Dietrich wearing a stiffened gold lamé dress, 1940. > Opposite page: archival portrait of the late German actress and singer; Marlene Dietrich photographed by Robert Richee for her film debut as the tuxedo clad Amy Jolly in Morocco, 1930 (inset).

Co r b i s ; Eu ge n e Ro b e r t R i ch e e / J oh n Kob al Fo un d ati o n / Ge tty Im age s

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more beautiful—and more artificial—than Berlin had ever known her to be.

The Dietrich/von Sternberg collaboration would deliver six more films, including Morocco (her only Oscar nomination), Shanghai Express, Blonde Venus, The Scarlet Empress, and The Devil Is a Woman. The director seemed less interested in Dietrich the actress than he was compelled to enshrine and envelop her in veils and smoke and shadows. Critics complained that

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her vivacity was being drained, in favor of von Sternberg’s “vision” of her. These films are rich with fantastic imagery, but Dietrich is very much her mentor’s puppet. She loved the way he made her look, but their movies were not making money.

Her glamour seemed oppressive, only occasionally breaking free. Her acting was stiff, but she was undeniably fascinating.

However, they parted after The Devil Is a Woman in which Dietrich gives a wildly preposterous, but electrifying performance. Almost immediately, she relaxed, charming in Desire as jewel thief.

Later films such as Knight Without Armor and Garden of Allah seemed to be backtracking, trying to recapture the von Sternberg Dietrich—the one who was beautiful but distant.

(She was wonderful in the daring, underrated Angel but that, too, flopped.)

Dietrich was declared “box office poison” but rallied in 1939’s classic western Destry Rides Again with James Stewart.

Rowdy and bawdy and much earthier, the film was a smash and paved the way for a series of “hard-boiled-dame” roles; the best of these, Seven Sinners with John Wayne, was also successful. (In this she dons men’s clothes again, as she did in Morocco, to warble “The Man’s in the Navy.” She had not forgotten her Berlin roots and the power of sexual playacting.)

However, over the next few years, this image too began to pall, and Dietrich was again at a career crossroads. To recover, she needed more than a new picture, she needed a cataclysm.

It came in the form of World War II. Dietrich had rebuffed Adolph Hitler’s offer to come back to Germany and reign as her homeland’s greatest star. In time, she was declared persona non grata, an enemy of Germany. She openly loathed Hitler and Nazis. She became an American citizen, raised war bonds and entertained troops stationed in the U.S. Then, in 1944 and ’45, Dietrich embarked on two extended tours, performing for Allied troops all over Europe. She was often close to the front lines and in danger of losing her life, or worse—being captured by the Germans, who now considered her a traitor. This was the defining work of her life, and if she traded on it for effect in later years, it takes nothing from what she did, when she did it. It was heroic and inspiring. If there had ever been a question of the “reality” of Dietrich, it was answered in the countless photos of a weary, lined woman, improbably dressed in sequins or Army fatigues, chowing down with “the boys.”

After the war—and a torrid affair with actor Jean Gabin— Dietrich’s film career needed a boost. She was closing in on 50. Billy Wilder offered her the role of a cabaret singer in Berlin, a Nazi sympathizer. At first Dietrich refused. Didn’t Wilder know where she stood on this; what did he think she had been doing for the past several years? But when the script of A Foreign Affair arrived, she could not refuse. This acid, cynical comedy, which co-starred Jean Arthur, about post-war Germany offered Dietrich a great role and three magnificent

Ray J o n es / N BC /N B CU P ho t o Ba n k vi a G et ty I ma ge s ; Pa ra m o un t Pi c tu res / Su n se t Bo u le vard/ Corbis

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Clockwise, from top left: Marlene Dietrich as “Shanghai Lily” in Shanghai Express, 1932; Dietrich photographed by Ray Jones for Destry Rides Again, 1939; a publicity shot for Knight Without Armour, 1937; Marlene Dietrich on the set of A Foreign Affair, 1948; Marlene Dietrich portrait, 1937. > Opposite page: Marlene Dietrich in a gown by Travis Banton, 1930’s; an autographed photo (inset).

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This page: Marlene Dietrich as Amy Jolly in Morocco, the 1930 film directed

by Josef von Sternberg; this well-known image of Marlene Dietrich by Milton H. Greene first appeared in an August 1952 issue of Life magazine

songs—“Illusions,” “Black Market,” and “The Ruins of Berlin.” As an actress she had advanced significantly from her von Sternberg beginnings. One did not have to agree with her character’s ingrained politics, to sympathize and be impressed (“Do you know what it was like to be a woman when the Russians swept through?” she asks Jean Arthur. “It was living hell.

But I survived.” It was an Oscar-worthy turn.)

Dietrich gave performances of similar quality in Stage Fright (a subtle Hitchcock masterpiece), Touch of Evil (a cameo, but classic!), No Highway in the Sky, Witness for the Prosecution, and Judgment at Nuremberg. Not that her film career mattered much. She had become the “World’s Most Glamorous Grandmother” and a live performer who dazzled in her semi-transparent Jean Louis gowns that gave the illusion of pristine firm flesh. She remained, if not “youthful,” then eerily persevered and 40-ish. (Her legend was comically burnished with tales of her baking, and cleaning compulsively. The former most associates rolled their eyes over. The latter had some truth. “The Queen of Ajax,” one producer called her.)

Her concert career flourished. She defied the decades. She defied Germany, returning controversially to her homeland—

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both lauded and spat upon. She defied Israel when she visited, and sang her songs in German, to weeping thousands of expatriates for whom German was the language of their own country—a country that had slaughtered so many of them.

She defied war-mongers when she recorded Pete Seeger’s “Where Have All The Flowers Gone,” giving historical relevance to the horrors of world conflict.

In time, only time could stop Dietrich! Under her gowns, increasingly constricting, and her painful wigs and the inevitably heavier make-up, the mortal Dietrich was, well—mortal.

In her last years onstage she gave some of her greatest performances, but the price of her discipline and/ or ego was high. Too many accidents, one too many horrifying stumbles into the orchestra pit ended her. She was mocked—“Falling Off Stage Again,” ran one cruel editorial.

She withdrew. However, in 1978, she was lured out of her Paris apartment for one more go at the screen. It was titled Just a Gigolo and starred David Bowie and Kim Novak. Not commercial! Set in Berlin, after World War I, Dietrich was wanted for the role of a madam who has a few lines and sings the title song.

Needing the money (or so she insisted) the star accepted.

No matter what it cost—in terms of tension—and what miracles had to be performed to reconstruct Marlene for her final appearance, she is magic in this last hurrah. Still playing with sex, still mixing it up. Still re-inventing morality and appropriate roles for men and women.

“Just a gigolo, everywhere I go people know the part I’m playing / Paid for every dance, selling each romance, every night some heart betraying / There will come a day, youth will pass away/then what will they say about me / When the end comes I know they’ll say just a gigolo / And life goes on without me.”

The outside world would go on without Dietrich until 1992.

She died in Paris, in the apartment she would not leave, still vital mentally—and with a whiplash tongue—but crushed by the ruin of her body and health.

“Just a few cans of celluloid on the junk heap,” she said dismissively as movie star Monica Teasdale in No Highway in the Sky. Perhaps. But what a glorious junk-heap! Dietrich.

The one, the only, the incredible. u

C o r bi s

(inset). > Opposite page: close up of the German actress and singer.

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Suits To Shearling, Fallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Trends Alex R. TRAveRs

And

elizAbeTh MeigheR

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C ou r te sy o f re sp e cti ve de si gn e r s

by

C l ove r C a n yo n

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Fa u s t o P u g l i s i

P ra d a alice + olivia D i a n e vo n Fu r s t e n b e rg

Prints There were plenty of clever prints on the catwalks this season, in addition to the ever-present images of flowers, perfectly attractive and youthful.

Why not add some of these dynamic patterns to

C a r o l i n a H e r r e ra

rky prints, era in their pe g for the cam sin mized po lly fu Glee stesses epito nal Airline ho iff Internatio an s.

Br 70 o 19 tw e rly thes in the ea of jet-setting the glamour

D u ro O l ow u

Gucci

your new fall wardrobe?

Dolce & Gabbana

Ve ra Wa n g Va l e n t i n o

We s G o r d o n

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Elie Saab

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M a r y K a t ra n t z o u

Christian Dior

Donna Karan

Th ere’s so m et hi ng un de ni ab ly se xy ab ou t th e sh lo ok . Even ee r Au drey He pb ur n’s m as k fa m ou s How in th e to St ea l a M ill io n ad ds a ne w ki nd of al lu re to he r al re ad y be au tif ul fa ce .

While itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s usually abundant in summer, fall was actually the bearer of sheer this season, offering a hint of what lies beneath the surface.

Ro b e r t o C a va l l i

Alexander McQueen

C o u r te sy o f re sp e ctive de sign e rs

Sheer

C o u r te sy o f re sp e ctive de sign e rs

Neil Barrett

To m m y H i l f i g e r

Kate M oss sp or ts a ja c k e t classic , a lo o leathe k the r shea n e ve rrling a g in g fashio Tin k e r B e ll n world of the wears well.

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P ra d a

A l e x a n d e r Wa n g

O s c a r d e l a Re n t a

Ra l p h L a u re n

Marni

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Shearling The runways for Fall 2014 showcased shearling in spades. But it was especially gripping when brands like Prada dip-dyed

reds and yellows.

Isabel Marant

Akris

A n t h o n y Va c c a r e l l o

Ro d a r t e

B u r b e r r y P ro r s u m

Diesel Black Gold

the material in electrifying

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Bally

Hermès

Suits Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard to make a suit look avant-garde, Ra l p h L a u re n

so high praise to Jason Wu at Hugo Boss, Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani, et al.

irresistible separates a major highlight of the

T h e Row

for making these quietly

M a i s o n M a r t i n M a rg i e l a

Christopher Kane

Hugo Boss

fall collections.

Wo r n w it h a p re p o n o m in s s e s s in a te d s g ir re v ta r le t s u it â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s e re n c e M a r le fo r m a , n e D ie li ty in tr ic h tr to a fe a n s fo r is ty fa ms a s h io n s ta te m e n t.

O s c a r-

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G i o rg i o A r m a n i

C ou r te sy o f re sp e cti ve de si gn e r s

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

by

Daniel Cappello

photographs by

Claiborne swanson Frank

Hollywood In A Whole New Light

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“When it comes to my craft,” says the actress Cody Horn, pictured here, “I am especially interested in the process of character transformation—the immersion into a person completely unlike myself.”

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This page: “I grew up on sets watching my parents and other actors perform,” Ireland Basinger Baldwin, the daughter of Kim Basinger and Alec Baldwin, recalls. “My family has been in the spotlight my entire life; therefore, I have never really known anything different.” > Opposite page: The actress Imogen Poots enjoys making films today but admits a nostalgia for the magic of Old Hollywood. “To me,” she says, “the glamour of this world mixes grace and a sense of humor.”

Sometimes an author knows the title of her book by the time she’s written the first chapter. And sometimes a photographer knows her cover image the moment she snaps it. So it happened for Claiborne Swanson Frank, whose latest book, Young Hollywood (Assouline), features a close-up of the green-eyed actress Isabel Lucas on the cover. “Our shoot was in the mountains of Topanga Canyon in the late afternoon,” Swanson Frank tells me. “Isabel was in a 1978 midnight blue Corvette. The light was golden, the air warm—I knew the moment after I took the shot it would be the cover.”

Other portraits might not have benefitted from that same golden light of Hollywood but were equally special and unique, to be sure.

“I shot the actress Riley Keough in a thunderstorm at a circus,” the photographer remembers. “The sky went black and we had 10 minutes to shoot. I love that shot.”

Notwithstanding the weather, what emerges from Young Hollywood

is an exciting look at a generation of women—actresses and insiders alike—on the verge of defining the next generation of Hollywood influence. “This is the first generation of actresses who are crossing industry lines and also working as directors, screenwriters, and producers in such considerable numbers,” Swanson Frank says.

“Young Hollywood celebrates Old Hollywood, through the book’s styling and locations, while honoring this new generation.” As such, the book is as much about recapturing something lost as it is about documenting what’s happening in the moment.

Caught by Swanson Frank’s lens, these movers and shapers of Hollywood come into view as poised and heroic figures—stylized, yes, to a certain degree, yet wholly honest in their individual skin. Some are unapologetically feminine and refined, others unabashed in their bravado, which flickers in the stare of their eyes. To make it in today’s Hollywood, it’s sometimes not enough to merely play the part of an FA L L 2 0 1 4 /

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This page, from left: Isabel Lucas graces the cover of Claiborne Swanson Frank’s Young Hollywood (Assouline), available at assouline.com; the actress Lorenza Izzo, who gets into her character by imagining how she would walk, brush her teeth, or make her bed. “I wonder,” Izzo says, “‘Does she have well-manicured toes? What kind of television shows would she watch?’” > Opposite page: The actress Riley Keough, Elvis Presley’s granddaughter, describes how she loves “escaping life through acting.

Everything else goes away when you’re working. Hopefully the same happens for the people watching the films.”

actress: sometimes you have to act, write, model, direct—even design.

As the fashion designer Michael Kors, who pens the foreword and whose own label is seen on some of the book’s subjects like Ireland Basinger Baldwin and Leven Rambin, describes: “These young Hollywood talents represent the juggling and speed that’s necessary today, but they’re able to channel something that feels old-world glamorous at the same time.” And who better to document them than Swanson Frank, the fashion-savvy former staffer from Vogue who broke ground two years ago with her first book, American Beauty, which brought us face-to-face with a new generation of women defining the cult of American glamour and sophistication? In both books, her subjects call us back again and again. There’s a quality in each of them that speaks to sophistication and experience, but also to curiosity and possibility,

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as Kors puts it. “That’s what Claiborne has harnessed in this book.

She’s brilliant at showing heightened reality.”

For Swanson Frank, her role as photographer is to document American culture through large bodies of portrait work. And Hollywood, which has been a driving force in defining American culture for generations, presented itself as a natural subject and progression from her first book, especially since she and her husband moved to Los Angeles from New York two years ago. Upon arrival, she says, she felt that there was a unique opportunity to tell a fresh story in her new home town. And the story that emerges is one of “ambitious and passionate” women, as Kors describes them. “They’re not afraid to show the world who they are or who they want to be.” Neither, thankfully, is their photographer. u

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Brigitte Bardot filming in Fiesole, Tuscany, 1962.

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© Elio So rci / C a m e ra Pre ss

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Sneaking In For The Shot by

Daniel Cappello

In a time before Instagram, the world didn’t much care to see everyone’s morning cup of coffee, workout routine on the beach, or fabulous five-star digs for vacation. One tended to show up in personal family albums, and that was it. In other words, one tended to live a rather undocumented life—unless, of course, you were famous. And the more famous you were, the more the world wanted to see you, which is what gave rise to the “paparazzi.”

The term derives from a character in Federico Fellini’s iconic 1960 film La Dolce Vita. The original paparazzi were a band of Roman photographers known for lying in wait to surprise their famous subjects in unexpected and sometimes compromising situations, then zipping away on Vespas to sell their photos to the highest bidder.

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This page: Rock Hudson and Cary Grant, Ciampino Airport, 1960 Cinecittà Studios, Rome, 1960 (above); Audrey Hepburn grocery shopping, Rome, 1961 (below). > Opposite page: Elizabeth Taylor at the David di Donatello Awards, Rome, 1962.

One of the first and most successful of the paparazzi was Elio Sorci, who in 1962 famously exposed the affair between Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton when he snapped them mid-embrace. It was the kiss seen ’round the world, landing on the front pages of newspapers everywhere. Among Sorci’s other unwilling subjects were the likes of Audrey Hepburn, Cary Grant, Sophia Loren, Ted Kennedy, Peter Sellers, Tina Turner, and Keith Richards.

This November, in a first-ever collection of the photographer’s work, Roads Publishing is releasing a book of images as quick and as fast as their creator: Paparazzo. With an introduction by Christie’s director Philippe Garner, we’re offered new insights into Sorci’s work. Once inside, the photos FA L L 2 0 1 4 /

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featured, like their fantastically eye-catching cover, are raw, candid, stylish, often hilarious, and always cool. For today’s world—where everyone, including even the most famous of celebrities, seems overexposed—Paparazzo serves as a reminder of the allure fostered by a sense of privacy, and the power of giving them just an occasional glimpse. u

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This page: Natalie Wood and Warren Beatty, Rome, 1962. > Opposite page: Isabella Rossellini with her mother, Ingrid Bergman, Via Condotti, Rome, 1970. > Opposite page, inset: The cover of Paparazzo: The Elio Sorci Collection, available this November from Roads Publishing ($100 at www.roads.co). A deluxe limited-edition, with an archival-quality print, will also be available for $1,490.

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This spread, from left: Jim DeMarco, Justin Moya, Kick Kennedy, Alvin Valley, and Kevin Michael Barba preparing for an Alvin Valley photo shoot.

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Alvin Valley, ebullient and cheery, swung open his SoHo office door, offered his greetings, and led me and his public relations manager, Kevin Michael Barba, downstairs to an outdoor table at the nearby Hotel Hugo. The June sun had just started to peek through the clouds, a hopeful sign of the beautiful afternoon to come. It was 1 p.m. and we were about to eat at the hotel’s restaurant, Il Principe. Once we were settled, Valley informed me that he recently passed his road test, assuring me that knows how to drive, but simply needed to take the exam again.

His remark brought up the idea of new beginning, a tabula rasa, something Valley has recently been given with the reemergence of his eponymous fashion business. When he re-launched in September of 2012, he wanted to “come back with a story, a story that was a lot more meaningful than just another fashion brand or another designer”—he balances scales—“ I wanted to come back with something that will become important and also that will become a leader.” This was the designer’s attempt to emerge from a period of overexpansion and bring more of his own valuable, personal touches to the brand. He hoped to have a tighter focus. “I try to be as much Alvin as possible, because I believe there is an Alvin Valley aesthetic,” he enthused when I first met him back in October of 2013.

Before he was the “king of pants,” a nom de guerre his socialite and celebrity clients are well aware of, Alvin Valley was a student of architecture at the University of Miami in Coral Gables.

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This page: Behind the scenes with Kick Kennedy. > Opposite: Kick Kennedy. â&#x20AC;&#x153;My clients are women who are on the go, women who are making things happen,â&#x20AC;? says Valley.

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This page: Julia Loomis smiles for the camera. > Opposite: Sadie Friedman, another of the designerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clients, models an Alvin Valley top and skirt.

All photographs by Cristina Macaya for Alvin Valley.

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Kick Kennedy in one browse the designerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection, visit alvinvalley.com.

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(“I had to persuade my Latino father that I would rather be a fashion designer than an architect,” he said.) At a young age, he envisioned his name being everywhere. He wasn’t exactly sure how he would make it happen, but he knew he wanted to be big—“big in his own world,” was how he put it. One day, he saw a Halston book in a thrift shop and was immediately drawn to it. Once he read it, he became enamored with Halston’s life—the glamour, the lifestyle, the clothes. He knew he wanted to be a designer.

It pleases Valley that he opened his first clothing shop right next to where he was once employed in Coral Gables, a place he used to “watch [while] the owner would fly to New York for fabrics.” Once he was in business on his own, women like Emilia Fanjul started noticing his designs—smart, clean pieces with a focus on tailoring that made women feel sexy. And Valley was designing for his women, not for himself, avoiding one of the biggest fashion-world tropes: a brand “finding its DNA.” Valley said it best: “I know my own DNA. I want to know my clients’ DNA.” One of the challenges of keeping a fashion business thriving in any environment is staying competitive with your fabric developments. It’s why brands like Alexander Wang and Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez’s Proenza Schouler are leading the way in New York. But rather than finding exotic fabrics to bond or stretching synthetics into newly minted luxuries, Valley engineers garments that actually manipulate the body. At a town hall meeting at Meadow Homes Elementary School—where Valley serves as an education ambassador with the White House Initiative on Educational Excellence for Hispanics—he said, “I use mathematics, calculus, and physics to design my tech-savvy clothes.”

Quite a few, maybe most, of those pieces are pants. They are the essence of the business. So are his women, many dear friends of his. Valley is well aware of his loyal following. In fact, he cherishes it. Which is why he’s now planning on providing tailoring services done in the comfort of the home or office. “My clients are women who are on the go, women who are making things happen,” said the designer. And as his fabrics become more technical, his business model follows suit. “It felt like a natural extension of my luxury offerings to provide certified tailors who are available at the click of a computer mouse.” Pants in a pinch.

Many women I’ve spoken to at New York Fashion Week and at other social events rave about the fit of their Alvin Valley pants. Their husbands and boyfriends seem happy, too. Kick Kennedy, one of his devoted clients, recounted, “Alvin is my goto fashion advisor and dear friend who never fails to make me laugh, charm me—and the rest of the world—or tell me my butt looks big in those pants.” He is fierce, funny company, all the time making those around him feel his energy. “I’ve never met someone who responds to the question, ‘How are you?’ with such confidence,” assured Kennedy. “Long live the king!” u FA L L 2 0 1 4 /

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Helena Bordon photographed in S達o Paolo carrying a mini Fiamma in purple python. > Opposite page: Hanayo and Tenko Nakajima photographed in Brooklyn with the medium Fiamma in grape leather.

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A year ago, Salvatore Ferragamo launched an online project known as L’Icona—or “icon”—to celebrate the 35th anniversary of the house’s fabled Vara shoe, which was originally designed by the equally fabled Fiamma Ferragamo, Wanda and Salvatore Ferragamo’s eldest daughter who, for almost 40 years, acted as the label’s leather accessories and shoe designer.

This year, L’Icona is entering its second chapter with the introduction of Fiamma, a new handbag collection from creative director Massimiliano Giornetti, inspired by the different female generations of the Ferragamo family.

The digital experience stays true to its namesake by recognizing several women and families from around the world known for “inherited” legacies all their own—and who, like Fiamma herself, embody talent, reputation, achievement, and style. In portraits by the Brooklyn-based fashion photographers Julian Ungano and Tommy Agriodimas, and through a series of short films and interviews with these Fiamma handbag brand ambassadors, the new chapter of L’Icona captures an intimate and personal environment (the women are featured in their homes), and presents a fascinating cast of mothers and daughters who share a similar role as movers and shapers of beauty, craft, values, and family tradition—all while moving their family heritage forward for new generations. From the west coast to the

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This page above, from left to right: Salvatore Ferragamo’s mini Fiamma handbag in multicolor ponyhair and black python trim; Sydney and Anika Poitier photographed in Los Angeles with the medium Fiamma in black leather and large Fiamma in cream leather. > Opposite page: Actress Mariel Hemingway and daughter, the model Langley Fox Hemingway, at Mariel’s Carefree Los Angeles Ranch with the mini Fiamma in black ponyhair.

West Village, from Paris to São Paulo, we meet modern-day style icons and mother-daughter teams like Hemingways and Poitiers, Ruspolis and Schnabels.

As for the Fiamma itself, with its semi-circular top handle designed in a range of five variant sizes (in everything from calfskin and crocodile to python and pony hair), adorned with sleek metal hardware details, the bag offers a functional pocket fastened with a lock that recalls the gancio, the eternal symbol of Ferragamo’s history and dedication to craftsmanship, which translates here as top-stitched ribbed handles, double-zip hardware closure, and an elegant satin lining. “I love a small handbag—just big enough for your essentials, simple color palette, with a strong design,” Langley Hemingway explains. “I think the Fiamma bag hits all those points,” she goes on, “Perfectly!” u

This page: Claudine Ying and Flora Zeta Cheong-Leen in the heart of the Left Bank in Paris with the medium Fiamma in black crocodile with gold hardware handles. > Opposite page: Helena Bordon and Luciana and Marcella Tranchesi at the landmark home Casa Amarela in SĂŁo Pauloâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jardim Europa Enclave with the medium Fiamma in grape python.

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This page: Front-row guests take a selfie during the Dennis Basso show at Lincoln Center (inset); a look from Dennis Basso’s Spring 2015 collection, inspired by the luxury resorts of the Mediterranean. > Opposite: On September 8, Polo Ralph Lauren hosted a 4-D fashion show at Cherry Hill in Central Park, projected on water rising from a fountain.

I see between 40 and 50 shows and presentations in New York during Fashion Week, which can be a lot to digest in seven days. But it’s necessary in order to see the trends, spot the winners, and, most importantly, watch designers evolve.

Sportswear. That’s what we do best here, rehashing (mostly Parisian) ideas and churning them into wearable, salable pieces.

But there’s also serious talent in this city—designers who push the envelope and stay true to their uniquely realized visions.

Here, a look at six New York Fashion Week shows.

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This page: Looks from the Carolina Herrera Spring 2015 collection, which took place at Lincoln Center. > Opposite: “Rose Tint” was the name of Veronica Beard’s Spring 2015 presentation. According to the sisters-in-law, the upcoming spring season is “about the bright side.”

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> Carolina Herrera The carefully worded rap against the talented Carolina Herrera is that she’s not testing the waters enough. Fashion journalists tend to say in their show reviews that “it’s good to see Carolina Herrera experiment.” Damn her for not trying to be like everyone else. And damn Madeleine Vionnet for always cutting on the bias. And what’s with Charles James reworking and reworking original designs? My point is, a designer can spend a lifetime perfecting a certain style and, for Herrera, that modus operandi is simple elegance.

That’s not to say her collections aren’t modern. They’re artful gifts of observation, appropriate for women of any age, wearable any time. Her Spring 2015 is filled with life, too, evidenced by her reoccurring use of flowers. But for all its inspiration and energy the clothes are elevated most by the fabric developments and expertly sculpted silhouettes (that spongy jersey off-the-shoulder gown was to die for). At its relaxed best, when it’s about, well, looking good, the collection truly comes to full bloom. Herrera is clearly working close to her heart, and

it’s a joy seeing her visions become tangible products. > Veronica Beard Smart clothes. That’s what sistersin-law Veronica Miele Beard and Veronica Swanson Beard make. But at this stage in the game, I want to see more, especially with fabric sourcing. The brand is doing quite well— they’re selling at Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Bergdorf Goodman...you get the picture. And they have one hell of a following, their party-like presentations always drawing huge crowds. (Hey, a good time and good clothes are O.K. with me.) But there’s real talent brewing in the studio; the proof is in the pudding of the most recent Resort collection. This season, the slouchy looks—filigree-printed palazzo pants—are conventional. The layered pieces—the best, a white eyelash lace tea dress with a cape jacket and a Courrèges dickey—are anything but. Their interest is graceful confidence, worn with a slight touch of irreverence. The Spring 2015 collection substantiates that the Veronica Beard girl is ready to see where that devil-may-care attitude can take her.

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This page: Looks from Wes Gordon’s Spring 2015 collection, featuring a metal embroidered gown, made with Swarovski crystals. > Opposite: Outtakes and outfits from the filming of Ralph Lauren’s Polo collection for women, which was projected on water rising from a fountain at Cherry Hill in Central Park on September 8.

> Wes Gordon If anyone asks you where the best and brightest young designers are coming from, point to Wes Gordon. His landmark Spring 2015 collection signals the arrival of a designer who’s developed a love affair with sumptuous fabrics and straightforward silhouettes. He may not be the hottest ticket in town right now, but I’m advising you to pay attention.

The simplicity of his collection brings out something elemental in a woman: Her gaze. Her pout. Her walk. Everything goes on easy. You slip into a slit dress. You slide on an apron top.

And you style your dresses with flats (props to Gordon, Manolo Blahnik, and stylist Julia von Boehm for making this season’s frock-flat combination look better than ever). Confidence trumps even the highest pair of heels.

Of course, Gordon doesn’t just know how women want to look. He knows how they want to feel—smart, alluring, strong.

His visual vocabulary is concise. And his clothes are about framing beauty. They are simple delights in a world of overwhelming dazzle. In fact, no woman who lives and breathes fashion should live without a Wes Gordon slip dress.

This year, Gordon is competing in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund for the second time. Maybe it’s a coincidence that some of his contemporaries and past CFDA winners—Jason Wu, Joseph Altuzarra—are receiving large cash infusions. But right now, all eyes should be on Wes, still in his twenties. Familiarize yourself with one of New York’s most gifted talents.

Wes Gordon is here to stay. > Polo Ralph Lauren Ralph Lauren walks on water.

Except unlike in Matthew 14:22-33, Lauren’s fashion disciples aren’t terrified at the sight. They’re excited, marveling at the designer’s questing spirit.

O.K., time out. He walks on water? Yes, but it’s a digital projection, lit onto streams rising from a fountain at Cherry Hill in Central Park. What we see is the women’s Spring 2015 Polo Ralph Lauren collection, followed by the designer’s bow—his own walk on water. Lauren likes to put the screws to fashion’s constraints. And his collections are usually cinematic. But, unusually, he goes a little too far this time, hoping the mediacracy of Instagramers fall hard for the gimmick.

In his 4-D show, you don’t see much of the clothes, expect for their colors—party blues, lurid yellows, rich reds.

But that’s not the point. What we see is his (and David Lauren’s) vision. And it’s clear: this brand can be as awesome and diverse as this great city.

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> Adeam Adeam designer Hanako Maeda (Adeam spelled backward) is a student of art history and anthropology, and her Spring 2015 collection is a bit of a tribute to Yves Klein, an artist who tried to capture motion on paper.

Not an easy task for an artist or a fashion designer. Luckily, Maeda’s not afraid to give it a try.

What’s fresh about the designer is how she identifies with her constraints, especially the struggle of conveying life and movement through clothes. There’s immediacy to her flared skirts, printed with Klein’s anthropometries patterns. At times, however, the pieces can feel too academic. They can also feel too familiar. The social media set may love her varsity-trimmed ribbed shirtdresses (because they’ve seen them elsewhere), but the real beauty of her work is in the symbiosis of pleated chiffon clinging onto streamlined knit dresses. Or when a strand of fluttering Georgette weaves its way through a shift dress, suggesting that there’s something living under the surface of the clothes.

Trouble spots? Volume. Working with neoprene and leather, her wide-sleeve crop tops look bulky, uncomfortable even. But it’s Maeda’s touch of valuing the female form

This page: Adeam’s Spring 2015 collection by Hanako Maeda, presented at Highline Studios, was inspired by the artist Yves Klein and his study of human body measurements. > Opposite: Dennis Basso’s Spring 2015 runway show, held at Lincoln Center, was dedicated to Joan Rivers and featured plenty of resort-ready summer furs.

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that makes her Spring 2015 collection stick with you. > Dennis Basso A Dennis Basso collection always has personality. His latest show, which the designer dedicated to the late Joan Rivers, offers a kind of seven-ages-of-(wo)man scenario: Park Avenue matriarchs sitting up front; their daughters, toting toddlers, in the stands; and fashion-obsessed teens documenting every moment on their phones. Look, if all the world’s a stage, then why not drape yourself in some of Basso’s extravagant fabrics? There’s crocodile, micro-sheared mink, broadtail, and chinchilla. His playsuits, tunic tops, and capris—a few made from metallic jacquards—are appealing. Evening looks come in floral-printed chiffons (the strongest pieces), mesh gazaar dresses (pretty), and soft green cloques (fine). For this collection, Basso finds his inspiration in the luxury resorts of the Mediterranean, especially during their 1950s and ’60s heyday when stars like Marilyn Monroe used to go around strutting their stuff. Basso’s furs are hot this season, too, many incorporating his new “spirit of lightness.” In fact, a mink and broadtail coat, laid over a barley-there hand-embroidered romper, gives a new kind of dignity to a dishabille. u

Cour tesy of Ad eam / Cou r tesy o f D e n n is Ba sso

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at New York Fashion Week, presenting its collection for Spring 2015 at the Hudson Mercantile. After the show—which was a smash!— guests headed to the roof for a dinner to toast Nicole Hanley and Matthew Mellon. The evening was themed to reflect the couple’s experience in the Masai Mara, a place that is both dynamic and peaceful—a sentiment that was echoed that evening above the city of New York. Friends Gavin McLaughlin and Annabel Vartanian helped with the success, contributing their talents to the ambiance and menu.

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Fashion Weekâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Ralph Lauren presented its Polo (for women) Spring 2015 collection in Central Park. The show was a spectacle, with models in their fashions being projected onto the water of the fountain at Cherry Hill. There were gasps of awe from the audience, as it appeared that the women were walking on water. Also, the event served to celebrate the opening of the first-ever Polo flagship on Fifth Avenue. Guests included the chicest of the chic, from Ralph and Ricky and their clan to Ciara, Kendall Jenner, and Henrik Lundqvist.

1. Ricky and Ralph Lauren with Anna Wintour 2. Miroslava Duma 3. Paul Arrouet and Dylan Lauren 4. David Lauren and Andrew Lauren 5. Lauren Bush Lauren 6. Lauren Remington Platt 7. Polo models 8. Karlie Kloss 9. Karolina Kurkova and Bruce Weber

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On September 3, Dee Ocleppo presented her collection for Spring-Summer 2015 at the Trump Tower on Fifth Avenue.

The brand, which launched in 2012, was founded on the concept of versatile luxury. With their classic silhouettes, the bags marry functionality with timeless style, impeccable craftsmanship, and luxurious materials. For Spring-Summer 2015, Dee Ocleppo offers pops of pastels like pink, turquoise, and yellowâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;inspired by the home she shares with her husband, Tommy Hilfiger, in Mustique. Pieces by Dee Ocleppo are available for $595 to $18,000 at deeocleppo.com.

1. Tommy and Dee Ocleppo Hilfiger 2. The Dee Ocleppo collection for Spring-Summer 2015 3. Jessica Van Lith and Di Petroff 4. Zani Gugelmann and Kelly Rutherford 5. Amanda Ross 6. Trisha Gregory and Alexandra Lind Rose

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The seasons of autumn and winter are defined by their parties and the people that host them, so, to celebrate, Christofle threw a reception for Dinner Diaries: Reviving the Art of the Hostess Book by Daniel Cappello (Assouline) on September 16. The fĂŞte took place at the luxury French silver companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Madison Avenue boutique, where those toasting Cappello included: Kelly Rutherford, Muffie Potter Aston, Kick Kennedy, Steven Gambrel, and Jackie Weld Drake. Dinner Diaries features handwritten answers to a Proust-style questionnaire from experienced hosts and hostsesses.

1. Dinner Diaries by Daniel Cappello 2. Prosper Assouline, Daniel Cappello, Martine Assouline and Alexandre Assouline 3. Alex Hitz 4. John Michael Schert and Candace Beinecke 5. Mattias Geise and Stephen Schackelford 6. Andrew Sessa 7. Shirin von Wulffen 8. Charles Rockefeller and Abby Caulkins

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Beckoning New York Fashion Week, the Couture Council of the Museum at the Fashion Insititue of Technology honored Carolina Herrera at a luncheon on September 3. At the David H. Koch Theater, the designer received the 2014 Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion to the applause of 600, including director of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology Dr. Valerie Steele as well as the elite of publishing: Glenda Bailey, Graydon Carter, Stefano Tonchi, Linda Wells, and Anna Wintour. The event, cochaired by Julie Macklowe and Elizabeth Musmanno, raised $1 million.

1. Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera and Ralph Lauren 2. Ivanka Trump 3. Seth Meyers and Alexi Ashe with Patricia Lansing 4. Amy Fine Collins and Lynn Wyatt 5. Yaz Hernandez 6. Lucy Liu 7. Prince Dimitri of Yugoslavia and Bettina Zilkha 8. Lorna Graev and Grace Meigher 9. Eleanora Kennedy and Anna Safir

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1. AVA GARDNER put her best face forward so, this season, shouldn’t you? 2. LUSH The company known for its fresh, handmade cosmetics offers a liquid eyeliner in gold called Fantasy—a product with sparkle; $18.95. 3. GUCCI The Magnetic Color Shadow Mono is available in 19 colors, including gold and copper (pictured); $37. 4. JULISIS Julius Eulberg uses knowledge of alchemy to formulate the Gold Wash Day wash, which promises to vitalize, protect, and energize; $93. 5. CLARINS The Super Restorative Day cream ($122) for very dry skin is a must-have for winter— especially when paired with the Super Restorative Facial at Bloomingdale’s 59th Street ($85 and up). 6. MAKE UP FOR EVER A new shade of Rouge Artist natural, Confident Coral, is formulated with lightweight pigments and illuminating mother of pearl; $19. 7. SK-II The Cellumination AuraBright harnesses the power of Pitera and ume extract to deliver radiance; $160.

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always looked sensational, even when emerging from the sea in Dr. No. 2. GUERLAIN All that glitters may not be the Le Vernis Nail Lacquer, but it should be: Coque d’Or is opaque and metallic while L’Oiseau de Feu creates a “gold leaf” effect; $25. 3. DAVINES “This Is A Texturizing Dust,” announces the packaging on a product that creates volume in an instant; $28. 4. CLÉ DE PEAU The brand introduces a collection to pamper the body, including the Body Emulsion ($150) and the Body Exfoliator with diamond powder, silk powder, and mother-ofpearl powder ($90). 5. CHANEL The Le Vernis is the star when it comes to polish that makes you feel, well, polished—it strengthens and moisturizes as it delivers high-shine color, applying evenly without streaking (pictured in Phenix); $27. 6. RITA HAZAN The New York–based colorist debuts her Weekly Remedy, a treatment for deep hydration and superior shine—a two-step approach to locks you’ll love; $42 at ritahazan.com.

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3 Fall means that it’s time to break out the decadent gowns and get ready for some of New York’s most exciting black-tie events. Not sure what to wear? Don’t stress. With our selection of evening looks and accessories, you’re sure to be the belle of the ball. 1. AUDREY HEPBURN is a film and fashion icon. No introduction needed. And when it’s time to get dressed up, it never hurts to take another look at her effortless style. 2. BULGARI Instantly glam up your look with Bulgari’s Diva High Jewelry Collection necklace in 18-kt. pink gold with 16 fancy rubellites, 16 amethysts, 16 round emerald beads, turquoises, and round brilliant-cut and pavé diamonds. Price upon request. 3. DENNIS BASSO With a runway collection inspired by the artist’s touch, Dennis Basso’s Bordeaux poly silk jacquard embroidered gown is one way to show off your decorative side. $14,000. 4. JIMMY CHOO The golden touch: the Whistler pump in gold metallic Elaphe. $975.

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was a reporter who married William Randolph Hearst Jr., the editor-in-chief of Hearst newspapers. And ever since the above photo of Austine Hearst wearing a Charles James “Clover Leaf” gown was featured on the 2014 Met Ball initiation, the welldressed beauty became quite famous with the fashion set. Our selection of styles will help make your look just as memorable. 2. GIORGIO ARMANI Grab onto this great wool clutch. $2,775. 3. CAROLINA HERRERA Go bold with Carolina Herrera’s lava red strapless dress in wool. $6,990. 4. REEM ACRA Show some skin in the strapless silk twill A-line gown with embroidered bodice detail in cream and gold. $5,995. 5. TIFFANY & CO. Designed to be stacked or worn on its own, Paloma Picasso’s Sugar Stack ring is certainly a piece by Tiffany & Co. that stands alone. $4,500.

1. AUSTINE HEARST

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appeared in a few small roles until she drew attention with her performance in The Killers, the 1946 American film noir directed by Robert Siodmak and based in part on a short story

by Ernest Hemingway. But Gardner always had looks that could kill, or as Raymond Chandler used to put it, “make a bishop kick a hole in a stained-glass window.” 2. DIOR Inspired by the Fall 2014 catwalk show, this slightly pointed pump adopts a look that is both chic and graphic. Price upon request. 3. RALPH LAUREN Be sure to show off Ralph Lauren Collection’s gray satin evening dress. $4,995. 4. IVANKA TRUMP FINE JEWELRY The Metropolis Lune Dome Ring with blue chalcedony and diamonds in 18-kt. yellow gold. $3,950.

1. AVA GARDNER

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once appeared on the cover of Life magazine before she starred in Alfred Hitchcock’s The Birds and Marnie.

It’s said that Hitchcock asked costume designer Edith Head to make clothes for Hedren’s private life, and he personally advised her about wine and food. You’re on your own with the wining and dining, but allow us to suggest some smart evening pieces to help spruce up your wardrobe. 2. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS The Oiseaux Amoureux earrings. Price upon request. 3. GIORGIO ARMANI For his Fall 2014 collection, the designer focused on the color green, allowing you to be in the limelight with the embroidered organza gown with limegreen crystals. $16,095. 4. ROGER VIVIER Fly into the night with the Papillon Clutch in blue satin. $1,050.

5. CHELSEA PARIS Give your look a little Parisian flair with the textured Ava Pump. $545 at barneys.com.

1. TIPPI HEDREN

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> Bloomingdale’s: 800.777.0000 or bloomingdales.com. > Born Crown: borncrown.com. > Bottega Veneta: 212.371.5511 or bottegaveneta.com. > Bulgari: 800.BVLGARI or bulgari.com. > Burberry Prorsum: 877.217.4085 or burberry.com. > Burton: burton.com.

C > Calvin Klein: 866.513.0513 or calvinklein.com. > Carlo Pazolini: carlopazolini.com. > Carmen Marc Valvo: carmenmarcvalvo.com. > Carolina Herrera: 212.249.6552 or carolinaherrera.com. > Cartier: 212.446.3400 or cartier.com. > Céline: 212.535.3703 or celine.com. > Chanel: 800.550.0005 or chanel.com. > Chelsea Paris: chelseaparis.com. > Chloé: chloe.com. > Christian Dior: 212.249.5822 or dior.com. > Christofle: christofle.com. > Coach: 800.444.3611 or coach.com.

D > David Webb: 942 Madison Ave., 212.421.3030. > David Yurman: 877.908.1177 or davidyurman.com.

Romy Schneider: We may not be able to get you a fitting with Coco Chanel, but we can help guide you to some of the best stores and websites for your shopping needs.

To help you on the journey toward a fashion sense of your own, we’ve compiled a listing of all the vendors featured in this issue, along with some of our go-to favorites.

In between shopping, be sure to keep up with Quest and Q online for the latest fashion news: visit questmag.com and follow us on Twitter and Instagram at @questmag.

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> de Grisogono: 212.439.4220 or degrisogono.com. > Diane von Furstenberg: dvf.com. > Diesel Black Gold: dieselblackgold.com. > diptyque: 971 Madison Ave., 212.879.3330.

> AERIN: aerin.com.

> Dolce & Gabbana: 212.249.4100 or

> Asprey: 212.688.1811 or asprey.com.

dolceandgabbana.com.

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> Drake’s London: At Bloomingdale’s, 212.705.2000.

> Barneys New York: 888.222.7639 or barneys.com.

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> Barton Perreira: bartonperreira.com.

> E.A. Burns: eaburns.com.

> Belstaff: 814 Madison Ave., 212.897.1880.

> Elie Saab: eliesaab.com.

> Bergdorf Goodman: bergdorfgoodman.com.

> Elie Tahari: elietahari.com.

> Billy Reid: billyreid.com or 212.598.9355.

> Emilio Pucci: emiliopucci.com.

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> Etro: 212.317.9096 or www.etro.it.

F > Fabergé: 694 Madison Ave., 646.559.8848. > Fendi: 677 Fifth Ave., 212.759.4646.

> Lela Rose: 212.947.9204 or lelarose.com.

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> Louis Vuitton: 866.VUITTON or vuitton.com.

> Rachel Zoe: rachelzoe.com.

> Lucifer Vir Honestus: lucifer-vir-honestus.com.

> rag & bone: 866.509.3695 or rag-bone.com.

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> Ralph Lauren: 888.475.7674 or ralphlauren.com. > Reem Acra: 730 Fifth Ave., Suite 205, 212.319.1800.

> Madewell: madewell.com.

> Roberto Coin: At Neiman Marcus or Roberto Coin,

> Maison Martin Margiela: maisonmartinmargiela.com.

800.853.5958 and us.robertocoin.com.

> GANT: 646.367.5416 or us.gant.com.

> Manolo Blahnik: 212.582.3007 or

> Roger Vivier: 212.861.5371 or rogervivier.com.

> Gieves & Hawkes: At Bergdorf Goodman,

manoloblahnik.com.

> Rolex: 800.36.ROLEX or rolex.com.

800.558.1855.

> Marchesa: At Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue,

> Roni Blanshay: At Bloomingdale’s, 212.705.2000.

> Giorgio Armani: 877.361.1176 or armani.com.

and marchesa.com.

> Gucci: 877.482.2430 or gucci.com.

> Marco Bicego: marcobicego.com.

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> Marina B: marinab.com.

> Saint Laurent Paris: 212.832.7100 or ysl.com.

> Marni: 212.343.3912 or marni.com.

> Saks Fifth Avenue: 877.551.SAKS or

> Harry Winston: harrywinston.com.

> Michael Bastian: At Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys

saksfifthavenue.com.

> Hermès: 800.441.4488 or hermes.com.

New York, or michaelbastiannyc.com.

> Salvatore Ferragamo: ferragamo.com.

> Michael Kors: 800.908.1157 or michaelkors.com.

> Smythson: 212.265.4573 or smythson.com.

> MILLY: millyny.com.

> Stuart Weitzman: 212.823.9560 or

> Indian Bazaar: shoplatitude.com.

> Mikimoto: 800.223.4008 or mikimotoamerica.com.

stuartweitzman.com.

> Irene Neuwirth: At Jeffrey New York,

> Miu Miu: miumiu.com.

212.206.1272.

> Monique Lhuillier: moniquelhuillier.com.

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> Isolá: isolashoes.com.

> Mulberry: mulberry.com.

> Tamsen Z: tamsenz.com.

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> Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry: ivankatrump.com.

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> Tiffany & Co.: 561.659.6090 or tiffany.com. > Tod’s: tods.com.

> Nancy Gonzalez: At Neiman Marcus or

> Tom Ford: 212.359.0300 or tomford.com.

> J.Crew: 800.562.0258 or jcrew.com.

nancygonzalez.com.

> Tommy Hilfiger: usa.tommy.com.

> James Perse: jamesperse.com.

> Neiman Marcus: 800.533.1312 or

> Tory Burch: toryburch.com.

> Jimmy Choo: 866.JCHOO.US or

neimanmarcus.com.

> Tyler Alexandra: tyleralexandra.com.

> John Varvatos: 765 Madison Ave., 212.760.2414, or

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johnvarvatos.com.

> Opening Ceremony: 35 Howard St., 212.219.2688, or

> Valentino: 693 Fifth Ave., 212.772.6969, or

> Judith Ripka: judithripka.com.

openingceremony.us.

valentino.com.

> Oscar de la Renta: 888.782.6357 or

> Van Cleef & Arpels: vancleefarpels.com.

oscardelarenta.com.

> VBH Luxury: 940 Madison Ave., 212.717.9800.

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> Prabal Gurung: prabalgurung.com.

> Wempe: 212.397.9000 or wempe.com.

jimmychoo.com.

K > Kara Ross: kararossny.com. > Kate Spade: katespade.com.

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> Prada: 724 Fifth Ave., 212.664.0010, or prada.com.

> Lalique: 888.488.2580 or lalique.com.

> Pratesi: 829 Madison Ave., 212.288.2315, or

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> Lanvin: 646.439.0380 or lanvin.com.

pratesi.com.

> Yigal Azrouël: yigal-azrouel.com.

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Capricorn Dec. 22 to Jan. 19 Your friends are looking to you for the 411 on the parties of the season, and you oblige because, if you don’t clue them in, who will? Be careful not to let the attention go to your head so that you can be clinking glasses on New Years, drama-free! > Garnet ring and necklace by Tiffany & Co.

Cancer June 21 to July 22

Aquarius Jan. 20 to Feb. 18 You’re reinventing yourself this season and, trust, you’re going to be thrilled with the response. Whether you’ve been committed to a new bod courtesy of Barry’s Bootcamp or have learned a new set of skills at cooking class, your efforts are sure to be noticed—and applauded. > Amethyst ring by Roberto Coin.

Leo July 23 to Aug. 23 People may say that you’re egomaniacal but, you know what? You have a lot to be egomaniacal about! You are creative, fearless, and fun and— let’s face it—you’ve got a great mane of hair!

Flaunt what you’ve got (which is a lot) but don’t forget to be humble every now and then... > Peridot earrings by Tiffany & Co.

Pisces Feb. 19 to Mar. 20 As a sign, you are prone to addiction. Now is the time to break a habit—don’t wait until 2015! You can’t stop, won’t stop with a person, place, or thing. Enough is enough. Get over your ex, stop hanging out at Dorrian’s, and quit smoking those cigarettes! > Aquamarine bracelet by Asprey.

Virgo Aug. 24 to Sept. 22 You’re a perfectionist, dear Virgo, but sometimes it’s O.K. to let loose! Try going out without makeup or rushing a project so you can cut away for the weekend—it may be liberating! Of course, a night on the town with friends where you let your hair down can do the trick as well... > Sapphire ring by Phillips House Fine Jewelry.

Aries Mar. 21 to Apr. 19 Can you say competitive? Of course you can, dear Aries. This season, you’re going for the gold with everything—from fantasy sports to getting promoted at work. Your ambition and firey-ness will serve you well, but remember: patience is a virtue! > Diamond earrings by Ivanka Trump.

Libra Sept. 23 to Oct. 22 You’re inclined to avoid conflict, and the chilling months ahead will appear to give you good reason to bundle up. You many need to layer to keep warm, but keep it simple socially and be up front with your associates. No winter chill is harsher than the icy glare of a former ally. > Tourmaline earrings by Asprey.

Taurus Apr. 20 to May 20 You’re supposed to be the picture of grace and good manners, so what’s going on? Something is happening—perhaps with your family or with your job—to make you unpleasant to others. Please don’t take your friends (and their patience) for granted... > Emerald necklace by Asprey.

Scorpio Oct. 23 to Nov. 21 Time and time again, you’ve proven your loyalty to friend after friend, so often without reciprocation (rude!). This will change in the coming months as those who matter come to realize your invaluable contributions. But they should know: Scorpios never forget. > Citrine necklace by Tiffany & Co.

Gemini May 21 to June 20

Sagittarius Nov. 22 to Dec. 21

You are known for being clever—too clever, perhaps! But it’s whatever. You know that haters gonna hate, hate, hate, hate, hate... Shake it off! Continue to pursue your passions, putting your talents to use. And if someone gets in your way, serve them with a snarky reply! > Pearl ring by Lucifer Vir Honestus.

You’re a wanderlust, dear Sagittarius, so wander!

Escape the chill with a last-minute excursion to the Caribbean or South America. Even Florida will do, as long as you do something new and exciting. Maybe even consider taking the trip solo so as to explore your thoughts... > Turquoise earrings by Tiffany & Co.

Your talents as a caretaker are going to serve you—and those around you—in the coming months. As the weather gets colder and colder, your ability to warm hearts will draw people to you. And it’s not just your brownies that are a treat, it’s your company! > Ruby bracelet by Phillips House Fine Jewelry.

A nEW ClASSIC ShInglE STylE hOuSE In nEW CAnAAn, CT DESIgnED AnD buIlT by WADIA ASSOCIATES

RESIDENTIAL DESIGN ~ INTERIOR DESIGN AND DECORATION ~ CONSTRUCTION MANAGEMENT (203) 966-0048 ~ WADIAASSOCIATES.COM

SCAn TO SEE MOrE phOTOS Of ThIS AnD OThEr CuSTOM DESIgnED hOMES

Eternity just entered a new time zone.

Helioro by kim

Nine intertwined strands of gold combine to form the Helioro Watch in 18k rose or white gold with brilliant-cut diamonds. From $24,450. Add the drama of the Helioro Rings, and the Helioro Pendants on La Catena necklace. In a strictly limited edition exclusively at Wempe.