Q Fall 2015 by QUEST Magazine

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FALL CLASSICS

PORTRAIT OF JANE BIRKIN, 1960

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42 THE LEGEND OF NATALIE WOOD Our intrepid chronicler Liz Smith takes a close look at the life of actress Natalie Wood, who had a natural affinity to perform. 54 TREND REPORT A roundup of four major fashion trends from the Fall 2015 runways in New York, London, Milan, and Paris—and the icons who inspired the looks.

62 ÉLAN EVERLASTING Jacqueline de Ribes has long held court as the “Queen of Paris” in French society. Here, Cherie Burns is invited inside the de Ribes household in Paris as the countess prepares for an upcoming exhibit of her fashion at the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute. 68 DEFINING NATIVE AMERICAN FASHION Elizabeth Meigher explains that Native American dresses were designed and decorated not only to be aesthetically pleasing, but also to reveal specific information about the wearer. 74 KICKING IT WITH HUNTER BOOTS The brand behind the ubiquitous green wellingtons have a long tradition of excellence, but thanks to fashionistas like Kate Moss, they also have a huge following with the younger crowd, now heading back to school.

80 NEW YORK FASHION WEEK REVIEW Reporting from the first New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Alex Travers reviews the Michael Bastian and Duckie Brown Spring 2016 collections as well as three Resort 2016 women’s wear shows. 86 JANE BIRKIN AND THE “BIRKIN” Hilary Geary Ross weighs in on the inception of the iconic bag—and its future. 94 SCRAPBOOK A look back at 10 years of stories that made Q the magazine of interest to so many for so long.

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C O V E R Portrait of Jane Birkin, 1960. © Reporters Associés/ Gamma-Keystone via Getty Images

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27 NOSTALGIA A montage of fashionable images and leafy scenes from our favorite time of year. 30 JEWELRY Just because it’s fall doesn’t mean you have to give up color—especially when it comes to gemstones. 32 COATS Ralph Lauren’s butter-soft cropped leather trench is a true classic, but we’ve also got a few other options. 34 HATS This season, we’re giving your style a major hat tip. 35 SHOES You’ll jump for joy over this selection of shoes.

36 ACCESSORIES From diamond-studded Rolex watches to a classic football, a gathering of some must-haves for the season. 38 HANDBAGS Getting ready to shop for a brand-new handbag? Be sure to check out a few of our favorites. 40 MEN’S APPAREL Find your perfect fall fit in Michael Bastian, Ralph Lauren, Hermès, John Varvatos, and more. 102 Q FOCUS The soirées of summer, featuring an anniversary in Versailles and a launch in Montauk.

112 BEAUTY: FACE Putting your best face forward begins with hues that were inspired by the fall foliage. 113 BEAUTY: HAIR & BODY The products for beautifying your body—from your tresses to your toes! 114 EVENING LOOKS When getting gussied up, keep it simple in whites and golds or go for bold in daring prints and stripes. 118 SHOPPING INDEX A listing of where to buy the looks and luxuries featured in our pages.

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120 HOROSCOPES Seasons are changing and your moon is on the rise—that is, of course, if you’re a Libra.

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DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA

ELIZABETH MEIGHER

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

EDITOR

JAMES STOFFEL CREATIVE DIRECTOR

LILY HOAGLAND EXECUTIVE EDITOR

ELIZABETH QUINN BROWN FEATURE S EDITOR

ALEX TRAVERS A SSOCIATE FA SHION EDITOR

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HILARY GEARY SOCIET Y EDITOR

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Quest Media, LLC S. CHRISTOPHER MEIGHER III CHAIRMAN AND C.E.O.

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Jane Birkin has been a style icon of mine ever since I saw her starring alongside Romy Schneider and French heartthrob Alain Delon in Jacques Deray’s 1969 film, La Piscine. I was a sophomore at St. Paul’s and we were days away from “Spring Break,” so our French teacher had agreed to let us watch “something fun.” In the movie, Birkin plays Penelope: a pretty, pouty teen kitten who sports large round sunglasses, crisp white shirts, a straw bucket bag, and sun-kissed bangs. Throughout the film, Birkin lounges in a revealing crochet cover-up; swings in a rattan chair wearing a pleated, gingham shift dress; is seduced by callous alcoholic Jean-Paul (Alain Delon) while sporting a white ring-top bikini; and escapes her fellow vacationers dressed in a simple white T-shirt, silver belt, and high-waisted flare jeans. Jane’s breezy, effortless look, plus her iconic wicker basket, epitomize Birkin’s style throughout the Swinging Sixties and explain why she will forever encapsulate Sixties chic. In the fall issue of Q, recurring Q and Quest contributor Hilary Geary Ross, a published author (see New York New York and Palm Beach People) and a style icon herself (I have long admired Hilary’s penchant for high fashion—Ralph, Oscar, Louboutin, Blahnik—while concealing eternally polished rocker blue toenails), writes about the English actor and singer and her eponymous Hermès “Birkin” bag. Recently, Birkin released a statement asking Hermès to remove her name from its famous crocodile “Birkin.” Birkin was upset after seeing a video exposing the inhumane treatment of crocodiles used to supply Hermès with their highly coveted skins. But the crisis following Birkin’s statement has been wildly exaggerated. First, Birkin’s statement asked only that Hermès rename the crocodile bag—not all handbags bearing her name, which come in a variety of skins (including calfskin)—and only until the supplier can be properly vetted. What’s more, Hermès trademarked the name “Birkin” for its bags in 1997, and can therefore not be legally compelled to change it. Naturally, it’s better for a brand’s image if an accessory’s namesake is not heard renouncing said accessory (and brand image, when it comes to luxury, is a big deal). But that’s a cosmetic issue, and not one that can actually affect the product offering (at least unless Hermès chooses to). That being said, would-be Birkin owners everywhere need not panic. Another recurring Q contributor, beloved “Grand Dame of Dish” Liz Smith, offers insight into yet another controversial subject: Hollywood starlet Natalie Wood. Her ugly and untimely death stunned the world because it was so uncharacteristic of Wood’s perceived girl-next-door image. “Nothing so lurid should have happened to Natalie Wood,” writes Smith. But as her article reveals, the story beneath the perfect façade was ugly, lurid, and heartbreaking. On a brighter note, don’t miss Cherie Burns’ “Élan Everlasting,” an invitation inside the private world of fashion Counterclockwise, from top right: Jacqueline de Ribes wearing a dress great Jacqueline de Ribes (a permanent fixture on Vanity of her own design, 1983; Gianvito Rossi’s suede, open-toe boot; Natalie Fair’s International Best Dressed List since 1962), who will Wood lounging in knee-high boots; Hilary Geary Ross (carrying her be honored by The Costume Institute this fall. Birkin) seated front row next to Eleanor Ylvisaker at Vera Wang’s Fall For the best fall style, check out fashion editor Alex Tra2008 show; Hunter’s Moustache Bubble Umbrella in green; a look from vers’ round-up of what’s hot from the runways, as well as Gucci’s 2016 Cruise collection; Lady Diana Spencer visiting Broadlands, what’s trending now. And if you’re a welly boot lover like me, home of Lord and Lady Romsey, in Romsey, England, 1981; read executive editor Lily Hoagland’s story on the latest and oval-shaped Walter Steiger bags; Jane Birkin with her iconic wicker greatest from Hunter Boots. Worn by the likes of Kate Moss basket; A Wishram bride in 1910; the Tom Ford ombré Celina glasses and Hamish Bowles, Hunter has been creating attractive, give your surroundings a new sheen; The Rolling Stones photoweather protectant footwear and outerwear since 1856. u graphed by Arthur Kane in 1966.

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CONTRIBUTORS

Liz Smith > Liz calls herself the 2,000-year-old gossip columnist. These days she’s been having fun with her website, which features 20 famous women: WowOWow.com (aimed at one of the most important demographics on the web—women who weren’t born yesterday!). In her latest column for Q, Liz takes a look at outwardly perfect, and inwardly conflicted Hollywood starlet Natalie Wood. Natalie Wood left an exquisite legacy—her art, her life—which she attempted to live in realistic terms despite her upbringing—and that wondrous face, so vivid, so beautiful, so unforgettable.

Lily Hoagland > As executive editor of Quest and Q, Lily knows what it’s like to need some footwear to last from breakfast at Sant Ambroeus to lunch at Michael’s to dinner at whatever downtown tapas place just opened. Focusing on the best boots to sport in the rain, she takes a look at the back-to-school offerings that Hunter has this season. Thanks to her previous work at The Economist and Vanity Fair, she learned the importance of value and style respectively, which helps when picking out “wellies.” One of her favorite quotes from Henry Rollins: “My optimism wears heavy boots and is loud.”

80 Hilary Geary Ross > A true Hermès fan, Hilary adores the French luxury brand’s classic, timeless style. “I still wear religiously the beautiful three-inch-wide Hermès belt I got as a present in 1970,” she explains. “Now that is what I call timeless!” Geary Ross has collaborated on two coffee-table books: Palm Beach People, and New York New York (both can be found on amazon.com), with fellow Q and Quest contributor, famed Scottish photographer Harry Benson. Geary Ross is a longtime columnist for Quest, having written its “Appearances” column since 1998.

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42 < Cherie Burns is the biographer of Standard Oil heiress and fashion icon Millicent Rogers. For this issue, she writes about the legendary Jacqueline de Ribes in “Élan Everlasting.” According to Burns, it is not the style or glamour of these women that attracts her to them as subjects, but their rich personal stories. “I only write about people,” she says. “That’s how I tell a story.” Burns is also the author of Stepmotherhood: How to Survive Without Feeling Frustrated, Left Out or Wicked and The Great Hurricane: 1938. The common thread? “They are both disasters,” she jests.

74 < Alex Travers is the associate fashion editor of Q and Quest. In this issue, Alex helps identify the major trends from the Fall 2015 collections. He also reviews five runway shows from the men’s Spring 2016 and the women’s Resort 2016 collections. “I think when I started covering the shows in New York I’d convinced myself I was obsessed with fashion and music,” he says, “but it was actually spending time with the designers, and asking them hundreds of questions, that showed me I was really obsessed with stories of all kinds, and how they might be told.”

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FAL L R E MIN IS C EN CE Ryan Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Neal and Ali MacGraw, as Oliver Barrett IV and Jenny Cavalleri, in a scene from Love Story,

directed by Arthur Hiller, 1970.

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Keystone-France/Gamma-Keystone via Getty Images; Anwar Hussein/Getty Images; Harry Benson/Express/Getty Images

This page: 1. Alan Ruck and Matthew Broderick watching the Detroit Tigers “swing batter” in Ferris Bueller’s Day Off, 1986; 2. Julie Christie and Dirk Bogarde near Lord’s, a cricket stadium in London, between two takes of John Schlesinger’s film, Darling, 1964; 3. Lady Diana Spencer visits Broadlands, home of Lord and Lady Romsey in Romsey, England, 1981; 4. Actress and society darling Baby Jane Holzer, wife of Leonard Holzer, photographed by Harry Benson, 1966; 5. The Rolling Stones by Art Kane, 1966. > Opposite page: 1. Leopard People by Jonathan C. Morris, 1966; 2. Françoise Hardy, Johnny Hallyday, and Sylvie Vartan by Jean-Marie Périer, 1963; 3. Students at Vassar College in the 1950s as seen in Seven Sisters Style (April 2014, Rizzoli); 4. John and Cynthia Lennon, New York, 1964; 5. Brigitte Bardot, 1966.

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Sp e ci a l C o lle c ti o n s, Va ssa r Co lle g e Li b rar i e s ; D av i d M ag n us / Re x/ R E X USA

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2 4 Celia Hammond turned heads as a fashion model in the 1960s, working closely with Vogue, and her looks alone could carry a page (okay, a fabulous necklace or accessory never hurt). This season, why not treat yourself to something new to fasten around your neck—or wrist or finger? Mademoiselle Chanel was once quoted as saying, “I wanted to cover women in constellations. Stars! Stars of all sizes...” Today, the fashion house that continues to bear her name is covering women with stars in the form of the Comète collection, like the Cosmique de Chanel ring seen here. So go ahead and reach for the stars!

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1. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Magic Alhambra New York Flagship Special Edition necklace in onyx and diamonds; $98,000. 2. MIKIMOTO Embrace cultured pearl ring with diamonds; $5,800. 3. PRADA Saffiano leather and crystal earrings; $730. 4. CHANEL Cosmique de Chanel ring in 18-kt. white gold, ceramic, and diamonds; $4,400. 5. IVANKA TRUMP Tassel Moderne bracelet with white and black diamonds; $12,400. 6. OSCAR DE LA RENTA Black silver flower crystal brooch; $450. 7. LARKSPUR AND HAWK Bella Long Graduated Rivière in quartz, rhodium, and washed sterling; $4,500. 8. NIRAV MODI Mughal By Pass cuff in white gold and diamonds; price upon request.

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6 Kecia Nyman had model eyes and the finest bone structure, but that’s not to say she didn’t mind improving upon her looks with some colorful stones. Fall doesn’t have to be a season of retreating from color, as the jewelry pieces seen here make clear. Whether you’re stacking bead bracelets by Sydney Evan in turquoise, green opal, blue agate, aqua jade, and chrysoprase or charming your wrist in a bright display of turquoise, malachite, pink opal, and lapis lazuli, we think you’ll find it refreshing to keep some brighter colors close to heart long after the summer sun has set.

1. TIFFANY & CO. Jean Schlumberger egg charm bracelet in turquoise, malachite, diamonds, pink opal, and lapis lazuli; $17,000. 2. BAVNA Polly necklace; $4,900. 3. FABERGÉ Summer in Provence multi-colored sapphire ring; price upon request. 4. MIU MIU Swarovski crystal earrings with palladium finisnd clip backs; $495. 5. VHERNIER Eclisse rings in rose gold and rock crystal with jade ($7,300) or lapis ($7,300). 6. SYDNEY EVAN Stacked pavé charm bead bracelets in precious stones like green opal ($1,100), chrysoprase ($925), and more. 7. VERDURA Topkapi cuff in gold, cocholong, amethysts, rubellite, and diamonds; $41,000. 8. LALIQUE Charmante bracelet in vermeil and clear and amber crystal; $995.

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Jazzed-Up Jackets Lauren Hutton has a face you just donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget. Oh, that smile! The one that made her a true fashion icon and paved the way for models like Lara Stone and Georgia May Jagger. Hutton was also a very successful actress who made her film debut in 1968 with Paper Lion. Pictured here in a cape-like coat, Hutton looks simply stunning.

1. DEREK LAM This pink, floor-length coat from Derek Lam's Resort 2016

Ralph Lauren's cropped trench shows off the designer's abili-

collection may be a little monastic, but we think it's also quite chic.

ty to give new life to a classic. 5. BURBERRY Creative director

2. ACNE STUDIOS A work of art from the Swedish brand Acne Studios.

David Bailey shows off his artistic side for Resort 2016.

3. BELSTAFF Motorcycle heritage plays a big role in Belstaff's designs,

6. STELLA MCCARTNEY Let the Bryce coat by Stella McCartney

and we're pleased to say that this coat from Resort 2016 revs up

be your fall go-to. 7. EMPORIO ARMANI Be sure to

the traditional moto style. 4. RALPH LAUREN In butter-soft leather,

button up in this season with this one-of-a-kind raincoat.

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Wearing Many Hats

Stored in the closet, often out of sight, is the hat that we all keep close at hand, just in case we feel the need to cover up the effects of a bad hair day or have a sudden urge to accessorize. But unlike many other items in our wardrobe, a hat offers its own freedom of expression. Today, hats (not caps) appear to be rare, reserved for bold statements or specific events. And while it may not be necessary to wear one every day, we do hope that you try one of these on for size.

1. LORO PIANA The Ingrid cashmere storm hat in gray; $800 at Neiman Marcus. 2. RAG & BONE This floppy-brim wool fedora hat by rag & bone features a pinched crown and calfskin leather band; $195 at select rag & bone locations. 3. ERIC JAVITS The Squishee IV hat, made with special lightweight fibers, looks good no matter the weather; $198. 4. EUGENIA KIM With a rose gold pin at its break, Eugenia Kimâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Catherine wide-brim hat in slate gray velour takes on a shape of its own; $425. 5. GIGI BURRIS In hunter green, the Requiem wide-brim fedora by young milliner Gigi Burris is the perfect fall accessory; $355 at gigiburris.com or Neiman Marcus. 6. PHILIP TREACY This one-of-a-kind design made in the United Kingdom features an abstract wool bow; $1,100. 7. LANVIN The wide-brim, snake-chain hat in wool; $890.

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1. SAINT LAURENT The Fetish 105 zip over-the-knee boot in black shiny leather features horizontal and vertical metal zippers and a tapered heel; $1,995 at select Saint Laurent locations. 2. CHELSEA PARIS The Nes boot by Chelsea Paris is sure to seduce; $995 at www.chelseaparis.com. 3. GIANVITO ROSSI In suede and dyed sheep shearling, this Gianvito Rossi open-toe lace-up boot makes a bold statement; $350 at Neiman Marcus. 4. PRADA Simple and classic: the suede mid-heel buckle pump with round-toe buckle and leather

lining and sole; $690 at select Prada locations. 5. ROGER VIVIER The Belle de Nuit satin pump in black with signature crystal buckle detail will make you the belle of the evening; $1,750 at Neiman Marcus.

Step Into These Shoes

A good pair of shoes is a wise investment. After all, shoes anchor every outfit. They can dress up jeans, add a sparkle to an evening gown. Sometimes, a pair of shoes even has the ability to transform the familiar pieces in your wardrobe into entirely new looks. So when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re searching for a fresh pair of pumps or boots this season, be sure to keep our selects in mind. They may be rather traditional, but whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wrong with that? Classics never go out of style. FA L L 2 0 1 5 /

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Fall Favorites Jacqueline Kennedy was fashion’s First Lady (not to mention the actual First Lady), offering her style, elegance, and grace to everyone who crossed her path. With a true love for America’s cultural heritage, she is remembered today for her contributions to the arts and the preservation of historic architecture, such as saving Grand Central Terminal and being an ambassador to the world. This season, channel your inner Jackie O. and be ready to look your absolute best.

1. VIMMIA Wear the Trimph Bra, in Prism, to look sexy when you sweat; $88 at vimmia.com. 2. ROLEX The Lady-Datejust Oyster 26-mm. steel and everose gold watch with diamonds is extra special; price upon request. 3. TOM FORD These textured ombré acetate square Celina glasses with gradient gray polarized lenses by Tom Ford give your surroundings a new sheen; $455 at Neiman Marcus. 4. AKRIS The enchanted floral print cashmere blend scarf; $2,999. 5. PRADA With clever whip-stitching, the City calf leather bracelet has a look of its own; $360 at prada.com. 6. HARTMANN Discover the best way to travel in style: Hartmann’s Intensity Spinner; price upon request. 7. SCALAMANDRE Cinephiles should recognize this print on Scalamandre’s Zebra crook-handle umbrella; $85.

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5 1. OMEGA With a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and rotating diver’s bezel, the Omega Seamaster is no stranger to the depths of the oceans; price upon request 2. FRYE The Logan antiquated flap briefcase in antiquated leather; $528 at Neiman Marcus. 3. MACALLAN In a special Lalique bottle, this 50-year-old Macallan is something to treasure; price upon request. 4. DUNHILL The Avorities carbon fiber ballpoint pen makes writing more enjoyable; $650 at Mr Porter. 5. MARSHALL No distortion here: the Marshall Stanmore speaker; $400 at Neiman Marcus. 6. J.CREW The J.Crew and Ebbets Field Flannels collaboration is sure to be a hit this season with classic caps like this Bismarck Churchills ball cap; $49.50 at jcrew.com. 7. WILSON Get ready to throw around the pigskin; $19.99.

David Bowie is an innovator. Sometimes strange, often outrageous,

P h ot 0 C re di t

Let’s Go Accessorize

and always pushing the envelope, Bowie’s music seems to speak its own language. Perhaps it’s in that spirit—pioneering pop-music influencer with several artistic passions—that Bowie is able to engage with his audience in such intimate ways. In fashion, especially, the pop star’s costumes serve as a constant reference point for designers. His music often plays at fashion shows. But most importantly, Bowie always reminds us that what’s essential is to have your own style. FA L L 2 0 1 5 /

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HANDBAGS

Throw It In The Bag Grace Kelly was born with it all. She had brains, beauty, riches... and a passion for acting, even though her parents didn’t approve. Right from the start, the young Kelly took to the stage. When she was 12, she played the lead in Don’t Feed the Animals, produced by the East Falls Old Academy Players. As the bigger roles came in, Grace became an icon. Then a princess. She even had a bag from Hermès named after her, which is still wildly popular today.

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1. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO This fall, be sure to get your hands on this Lotty leather satchel bag by Salvatore Ferragamo, fitted with a Gancini flip lock and a zip pocket below the flap; $2,100 at Neiman Marcus. 2. CHLOÉ In napa calfskin and suede, the Faye patchwork shoulder bag is one of our favorites; $2,250 at select Chloé locations. 3. PRADA Simple and classic: Prada’s calf leather top handle bag with steel hardaware and embossed logo; $1,990 at prada.com. 4. LOUIS VUITTON Designer Nicolas Ghesquière revisits his Petite Malle bag this season with the Soft Toile MM, featuring softer lines and a more “casual allure”; $3,600. 5. WALTER STEIGER These oval-shaped beauties by Walter Steiger come in two sizes; price upon request.

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S T Y L E CLUTCHES

Clutch And Behold Sophia Loren first caught the world’s attention in a beauty pageant. It was 1949 and she was 14. After the pageant, it was suggested to Loren that she take acting lessons. She enjoyed them, and by the late ’50s, Loren was a star of the silver screen, appearing in big studio films such as Houseboat, That Kind of Woman, and It Started in Naples. In 1962 she won an Academy Award. The first actress to win for a foreign language performance. Here’s to you, Sophia!

1. TOM FORD The Alix small zip and padlock clutch bag in calf leather with signature Tom Ford yellow golden hardware; $2,490. 2. LANVIN With a box-chain shoulder strap and pleated body, the Mai-Thai brocade envelope clutch is great for any occasion; $950. 3. ROGER VIVIER Cherry-picked from a smart selection of Roger Vivier accessories: the Crystal Pilgrim buckle clutch bag; $1,675 at Roger Vivier, 750 Madison Avenue. 4. VALENTINO Be a rockstar this season with Valentino’s rockstud flap wristlet clutch bag; $1,695 at Neiman Marcus. 5. JIMMY CHOO The Milla patent flap-top clutch bag; $775 at select Jimmy Choo locations. 6. JUDITH LEIBER Couture quality: the faceted box clutch; $1,495. 7. EDIE PARKER The Jean Ribbon acrylic clutch bag; $895. 8. BALENCIAGA Le Dix box minaudière; $1,255.

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Finding That Fall Fit Robert Redford is no slouch when it comes to acting or directing, nor when it comes to dressing. The tousled-hair star has always been admired as much for his threads as for his theatrical know-how. Even with his shirt untucked and collar up, Redford played the part of the effortlessly stylish guy’s guy. This fall, designers are making it easy for gentlemen from every walk of life to find that perfect fit of their own.

1. MICHAEL BASTIAN Gray flannel double-breasted jacket ($2,135), dark check buttondown shirt ($550), selvage denim 5-pocket jean ($395). 2. L.B.M. 1911 Blue coat ($1,195), bright blue blazer ($750), and blue pants ($275). 3. JOHN VARVATOS Shearling coat ($5,998), turtleneck sweater ($398), Austin slim-fit pant ($498). 4. HERMÈS Doublebreasted taupe calfskin coat ($17,500), charcoal cashmere flannel suit ($6,450), and cashmere lilac scarf ($370). 5. MICHAEL KORS Camo herringbone double-breasted reefer ($695), merino pullover ($145), and gray jean ($175). 6. POLO RALPH LAUREN Tan houndstooth sport coat ($1,495), purple cashmere sweater ($398), and olive slim-fit jean ($198). 7. BESPOKEN Classic staples are given a downtown sensibility in the hands of Bespoken. 8. PERRY ELLIS Keep it modern and slim in a Perry Ellis suit.

AT HOM E WI T H N AT U R E

AT H O M E WIT H NAT U R E

t e l 7 8 6 . 220. 2099 | 1ho t els. co m/ ho mes

tel 7 8 6 .220. 2099 | 1h o t e ls. c o m / h o m e s ORAL REPRESENTATIONS CANNOT BE RELIED UPON AS CORRECTLY STATING THE REPRESENTATIONS OFTHE DEVELOPER. FOR CORRECT REPRESENTATIONS, REFERENCE SHOULD BE MADE TO A PURCHASE CONTRACT AND THE OTHER DOCUMENTS REQUIRED BY SECTION 718.503, FLORIDA STATUTES, TO BE FURNISHED BY A DEVELOPER TO A BUYER OR LESSEE. THIS IS ORAL REPRESENTATIONS CANNOT BE RELIED UPON AS CORRECTLY STATING THE REPRESENTATIONS OFTHE DEVELOPER. FOR NOT INTENDED TO BE AN OFFER TO SELL CONDOMINIUM UNITS IN ANY STATE WHERE PROHIBITED BY LOCAL LAW AND CORRECT REPRESENTATIONS, REFERENCE SHOULD BE MADE A PURCHASE CONTRACT AND THEOPPORTUNITY. OTHER DOCUMENTS YOUR ELIGIBILITY FOR PURCHASE WILL DEPEND UPON YOUR TO STATE OF RESIDENCY. EQUAL HOUSING

REQUIRED BY SECTION 718.503, FLORIDA STATUTES, TO BE FURNISHED BY A DEVELOPER TO A BUYER OR LESSEE. THIS IS NOT INTENDED TO BE AN OFFER TO SELL CONDOMINIUM UNITS IN ANY STATE WHERE PROHIBITED BY LOCAL LAW AND YOUR ELIGIBILITY FOR PURCHASE WILL DEPEND UPON YOUR STATE OF RESIDENCY. EQUAL HOUSING OPPORTUNITY.

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This page: A still from Splendor in the Grass, starring Warren Beatty and Natalie Wood as a pair of ill-fated young lovers in Kansas in the 1920s. > Opposite page: Profile of Natalie Wood by Sam Shaw, 1959.

“Natalie Wood never really existed. The actress with that name was a creation of her mother, a disturbed genius known by various first names, usually Maria…The person inside ‘Natalie Wood’ was lost for years, even to herself.” So began Suzanne Finstad’s disturbing and poignant biography Natasha (Wood was born Natasha Gurdin). Although Natalie Wood played her share of neurotic characters onscreen, her essential appeal was that of a glorified girlnext-door, a perfect young lady. Unlike her sisters in child-acting, Elizabeth Taylor and Judy Garland, Natalie lacked a certain quality of abandoned excess—she wasn’t, in the end, camp. She didn’t acquire iconic status before or after her

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Liz Smith

death, because of her seeming normalcy; her personality was distinctive (jittery, slightly manic; she was a modern Miss) but not unique enough for pop mythology. Nor was her private life (the “public” private life) as charismatically messy as that of Liz and Judy. Natalie’s ugly death stunned Hollywood and the world because it was so uncharacteristic of her perceived image. Nothing so lurid should have happened to Natalie Wood. But the story behind the perfect façade was ugly, lurid, and heartbreaking. Especially in the beginning. Raised by a disturbed fantasist of a mother, who breastfed her at the cinema (little Natasha at age three was trained to sit silently through two-hour films without moving), Natasha was groomed from the cradle to be an actress, a star. For Maria Gurdin, nothing

SA M S H AW / R E X USA

The Legend Of Natalie Wood

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not, unlike Elizabeth Taylor, become a star instantly. Taylor made only a couple of movies before National Velvet catapulted her to world attention. Elizabeth was also already beginning to develop the voluptuous body that would push her image in glamour and adult roles, while emotionally she was still a child. Natalie—tiny, exquisitely proportioned, and small bosomed, was allowed to remain a child onscreen. Natalie made 17 films as a child and teenager, well-known, eventually, but not yet a star. What is striking about her early work is that she (like Taylor) is unmistakably the adult Natalie Wood, even in her earliest roles. She is also an effortless performer (unlike Taylor, who was rather saccharine during her brief tenure as a child actor). Later, Natalie’s work was not always quite so effortless. She took it seriously. Too seriously. There could be an artificial, slightly mechanical quality

Images

else existed but that image. For Natasha, soon re-christened Natalie Wood, her entire life would be alternate enslavement to her mother’s fantasy, and a desperate battle to escape and find herself—whoever that was. Raised in a household steeped in her mother’s hysterical Russian superstition, her father’s violent alcoholism, enduring, with an eternal smile the destruction of her childhood, Natalie Wood suffered greatly. It was her mother who instilled in Natalie her morbid fear of “dark waters”—the dark waters in which she would horribly drown in 1981. Outwardly perfect, inwardly conflicted, she had a natural affinity to perform, but did not know how “programmed” she actually was. When she understood what had happened to her, it was too late. Perhaps the saving grace of Natalie’s life was that she did

Ar ch i ves / Ge t ty Im a ge s; S N AP / Re x/ RE X U SA; Pa ul S ch u tze r / Th e LI FE

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@A FP ; Ul lste i n Bi ld vi a G e tty I m age s. O pp o si te : A P; M i ch a e l O c h s

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This page, clockwise from top left: Actress Jane Wyatt fixes Natalie Woodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hair in Hollywood, 1949; James Dean and Wood in a scene from Rebel Without A Cause, 1955; Wood and John Payne on the set of Miracle on 34th Street, 1947; still of Natalie Wood for Inside Daisy Clover, 1965; Wood photographed by Bob Willoughby at a Hollywood charity party, 1951; Natalie Wood and Warren Beatty (his shoulder) surrounded by photographers at Cannes Film Festival, 1963. > Opposite page: Natalie Wood lounging in leather boots; Natalie Wood in Bob & Caroline & Ted & Alice, 1969.

to her performances. She made her first great mark on film in Rebel Without a Cause as the rebellious, hysterical teenager who bonds with broody James Dean and misfit Sal Mineo. It was a powerful performance, the first of her three Oscar nominations. From then on her studio, Warner Bros., promoted her as the ultimate datable American girl. With her pixie haircut and her tight Capri pants she was a fan magazine favorite, even if most her films were forgettable (The Girl He Left Behind, The Burning Hills, A Cry in the Night, Kings Go Forth, Bombers B-52). She had an important role in John Ford’s The Searchers but her acting was not lauded. Her publicity was fairly innocent. The behind-the-scenes story of Natalie’s adventures, before the age of consent, were enough to fill a therapists notebook for years: the realization that she had forfeited normalcy triggered a bitter rebellion. For a while she was Lolita on the fast track to hell. Losing her virginity at 15 to a young dairy farmer she wanted to marry (he tried to kill himself when the affair ended), she was famously promiscuous by 16 (one of her many conquests at the time included Frank Sinatra), and used shockingly by her Rebel Without A Cause director Nick Ray. (Today, such an affair between

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a 16-year-old and her adult director is a scandal that could never be kept secret. Ray—and Frank Sinatra for that matter—would have had to join Roman Polanski in Europe.) She was brutally, savagely raped by a famous movie star. Her mother, whom one detractor called “basically a pimp,” thought the attack was not so bad, it was, after all, perpetrated by a “star.” This rapist is still alive. A revered member of the Hollywood community. She drank, she smoked, she swore. She dated Elvis and worshipped James Dean. One lover at this time found her teen sexual expertise “very sad.” Though it was not so sad that he didn’t sleep with her. But rebellion didn’t comfort Natalie; she wanted only to please—her mother, her public, her expectations of herself, which were intolerably high. She was, as her friend Robert Blake commented, “riddled by demons.” As Natalie matured, she made massive efforts to adjust, to find herself. (She also became rather prudish, a traditional bourgeois.) Like Marilyn Monroe, she reached up in life. Unlike Monroe however, Wood was a respected member of the Hollywood “community.” Natalie’s upward climb was not derided. Her great escape came in her work—she was highly disciplined, driven to excel. (So unlike Wood’s glamourous “role model” Elizabeth Taylor, whose attitude toward her career was one of utter ennui—Taylor, a tougher cookie, lived to pleasure herself.) Still, Natalie’s career in 1960 seemed stagnant—not even Marjorie Morningstar, based on the wildly popular novel, jelled. Nor did her loan-out to MGM for All The Fine Young Cannibals redeem her—although she looked better than ever, and enjoyed working with then-hubby Robert Wagner. Their romance and marriage had thrilled the fan mags. It seemed as if Natalie Wood might become one of those gifted child stars who did not make the adult transition. But then she fought for the role of Deanie in Splendor in the Grass. Nobody thought she was right for it, especially director Elia Kazan. Could she cast aside her movie star mannerisms, take off most of her make-up, really “live” the character—a girl who essentially loses her mind in the grip of love and (especially) lust for Warren Beatty? She insisted she could and she did. It would be the second breakthrough performance of her career—intense, lyric, vulnerable—and earned her a second Oscar nomination. (It was also the first of several major films in which Natalie had a contentious, explosive relationship with her on-screen mother. If she never confronted her own mother, in real life, she consoled herself with riveting show-downs in cinema.) Now was Natalie’s time, and her career soared. Unfortunately her rise coincided with the end of her marriage to Robert Wagner, whose career was not soaring. Natalie consoled herself with hit after hit—West Side Story (miscast but sweet), Gypsy (the best of all who have played the fabled stripper) Love With the Proper Stranger (her third Oscar nod).

Ge t ty Im a ge s; War n e r Bro th e r s/ G et ty I ma ge s

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Si lve r Sc re e n Co ll e ct i o n/ G e tty I ma ge s . Op p o si te : Fra nk Wo r th , C ou r te sy o f Ca pi t al Ar t/

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This page, clockwise from top: Robert Wagner and Natalie Wood attend an Oscar dinner in Los Angeles, 1959; Wood and James Dean listen to director Nicholas Ray on set of Rebel Without A Cause, 1955; Wood and Steve McQueen embrace in Love with the Proper Stranger directed by Robert Mulligan, 1963; Richard Beymer and Natalie Wood in West Side Story, directed by Robert Wise and Jerome Robbins, 1961; James Dean and Natalie Wood star in Rebel Without A Cause, 1955. > Opposite page: Stills of Natalie Wood and Warren Beatty in Splendor in the Grass, 1961.

This page, clockwise from top left: Robert Redford and Natalie Wood in This Property is Condemned, directed by Sydney Pollack, 1966; Wood in costume, in her dressing room, after shooting a scene for Gypsy, 1962; Wood and Tony Curtis in Sex And The Single Girl, 1964; Natalie Wood, her children (Natasha and Courtney) and her husband, Robert Wagner, arrive at London airport, 1976; Richard Beymer and Natalie Wood starring in West Side Story, 1961; Elliott Gould, Natalie Wood, Robert Culp, and Dyan Cannon appear on the poster for Bob & Carol & Ted & Alice, 1969. > Opposite: Natalie Wood displays the new drive in-movie speakers as she leans out of her car window in Hollywood, 1957; Jack Lemmon, Natalie Wood, and Tony Curtis photographed by Bob Willoughby on set of The Great Race, Paris, 1964.

Silver Scre e n C o lle ctio n / Ge tty I m a ge s; M ov ie Po ste r I m a ge Ar t/ Ge tty I m a ge s

Unde rwo o d Arch ive s/ Ge tty I m a ge s; O p p o site : © Bo b Flo ra / UPI / Be ttm a n n /

CO RBI S; Wa rn e r Bro s. / Arch ive P h o to s/ Ge tty I m a ge s; STAFF/ AFP / Ge tty I m a ge s;

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But times were changing and as young as Natalie was, she was considered part of Old Hollywood. Sex and the Single Girl, Inside Daisy Clover, The Great Race, Penelope, and This Property is Condemned did not meet box-office expectations. (Although This Property contains Natalie’s best adult performance, save for the later T.V. movie, The Cracker Factory.) Dissatisfied with her career and Hollywood life, Natalie married Richard Gregson, had a child, Natasha, and withdrew from the hurly burly. She was lured back in 1969 with the contemporary sex comedy Bob and Carol and Ted and Alice. This was a huge hit and Natalie had a piece of the profits. It made her very rich. Not so rich was finding out that her hubby was sleeping with her assistant. Natalie ended her marriage the second she found out, changing the locks on her house and throwing Gregson’s belongings into the street. But the Hollywood fairytale that Natalie’s mother had raised her on was not yet over. Natalie re-connected with Robert Wagner, now well-established as a T.V. star. They fell in love once more, remarried, and had a child, Courtney. Together again, these two beautiful people—once the epitome of teenage love—became the symbol of what was left of Hollywood royalty in Hollywood itself.

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Natalie once again put her career aside for mothering and hostessing and being a good wife. But eventually the actress in her could not be stilled. There were some feature films (Peeper, The Last Married Couple in America, Meteor) and T.V. movies, the best of which was 1979’s The Cracker Factory—a completely mature, stripped-down performance; the ultimate grown-up version of all her conflicted heroines. But lovely as she remained, Natalie had entered the dangerous age of her early forties—what was there for her? Despite her relative youth, and the care she took of herself, she was considered a figure of antiquated stardom. And her latest role, in the sci-fi thriller Brainstorm was not turning out as she’d hoped. Natalie found inspiration in the reinvention of her friend Elizabeth Taylor. La Liz had cast off many pounds and many insecurities to star on Broadway in The Little Foxes. It was a triumph. Natalie bought the rights to the play Anastasia. (The screen version in 1956 had delivered an Oscar to Ingrid Bergman—and forgiveness for Bergman’s “sins” a decade previously.) Natalie was deep into the script—which appealed to her Russian roots—and had posed for publicity photos, eager to begin the Los Angeles run, when she died over Thanksgiving weekend in1981. No star’s death, since Carole Lombard’s plane crash in 1942, impacted the show business community as did Natalie’s horrible unexpected passing. The shock was palpable. James Dean was too young for Hollywood to care, despite

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This page, clockwise fro top left: Natalie Wood and Steve McQueen in a scene from Love with the Proper Stranger, 1963; Natalie Wood and James Dean on set of Rebel Without A Cause; the young actress posing in checkered pants; Natalie Wood bikini-clad in Bob & Carol & Ted & Alice; portrait of

Warner Brothers/Getty Imag es

Natalie Wood and Gene Kelly for Marjorie Morningstar directed by Irving Rapper, 1958; still of Natalie Wood from Splendor in the Grass; Natalie Wood on set of Love with the Proper Stranger directed by Robert Mulligan, 1963; Lana Wood, right, with her sister, Natalie Wood, when Lana played Natalie as a young girl in The Searches. > Opposite, clockwise from top left: Natalie Wood photographed by Bill Ray, 1963; Wood feeding fish to a dolphin; Wood as stripper Gypsy Rose Lee in a publicity still for Gypsy, directed by Mervyn LeRoy, 1962; Wood on the set of Love with the Proper Stranger, 1963; Patrick Wayne and Natalie Wood on the set of The Searchers, 1956; Natalie Wood and Robert Wagner are made up for their roles in All The Fine Young Cannibals, in Los Angeles, 1959.

This page, top to bottom: Warren Beatty and Natalie Wood at the Oscars, 1962; Natalie Wood photographed in New York City by William Claxton, 1961. > Opposite page, from top: Natalie Wood wearing a blue dress against a pink background in a studio portrait, 1965; Natalie Wood and Tony Curtis shooting

I ma ge s ; S i lve r Sc re en Co ll ec ti o n / Ge tty Im age s

the cult that sprang up. Marilyn and Judy were considered lost causes long before they left. But Natalie? Nobody could have envisioned the beloved star found floating off the Catalina coast, a drowning victim. Rumors persist as to what happened on the Wagner’s yacht Splendor. I don’t think it really matters anymore. It was a terrible accident. Oddly, tragically, Natalie uttered her own epitaph as Deanie in Splendor in the Grass, quoting William Wordsworth in her final scene: “Though nothing can bring back the hour of splendor in the grass, of glory in the flower, we will grieve not, rather find strength in what remains.” Natalie Wood left an exquisite legacy—her art, her life— which she attempted to live in realistic terms despite her upbringing—and that wondrous face, so vivid, so beautiful, so unforgettable. As long as film exists, we can bring back Natalie Wood’s “hour of splendor”—as often as we like. Thank God for the movies! u

Wi lli a m Love la ce / E x p re s s/ Ge t ty Im a ge s. O p po s i te :B i ll Ra y /T h e LI FE I ma ge s C ol le cti o n / Ge tty

pool, 1963; Natalie Wood and Warren Beatty on the set of Splendor in the Grass.

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Boho On the runways this season, we spotted several “ladies of the canyon,” proving that bohemianism—and the possibility of freedom it suggests—was on the minds of many designers.

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Alex TrAvers

Anna Sui

And

elizAbeTh Meigher

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To r y B u r c h

ChloĂŠ

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D r i e s va n N o t e n

D s q u a re d 2

C ou r te sy o f re sp e cti ve de si gn e r s

Burberry

As th ey di d on sc re en , M ar ia nn An it a Pa ll e Fa it hf ul en be rg po l an d rt ra y la di es w ho se cl ot vo lu m es ab hi ng sp ea ou t th ei r m ks oo ds an d pe rs on al it ie s.

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Alexander McQueen

To p s h o p U n i q u e

Edun

C a r ve n

Lo u i s Vu i t t o n

M i c h a e l Ko r s

J a s o n Wu

Philipp Plein

Balmain

J u s t C a va l l i

Gucci

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Leather Dresses Leather lovers get the appealâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; that texture, that smell, that sense of luxury. For the fall and resort seasons, there were plenty of leather dresses paraded down the catwalk. Here are our favorites. What

Co u r te sy o f re sp e ct i ve d e si g ne r s

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are yours?

t of the se gger in e o n a C l c e n a Ja M ic h a in , B ia o a t it t r x B of d ne ss. a t t le Seate atdre il m B her co o n â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s f t t a il le m a ng Guy H s a lo spor t

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Calvin Klein

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Pa u l e K a

Mod Short, snazzy, and always sexy: Discover the clever appropriations that designers dished out to pay tribute

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C a r o l i n a H e r r e ra

Stella McCartney

D e re k L a m

to the famous â&#x20AC;&#x2122;60s style.

One of th e m o d e ls a a lw a y s s s o c ia b e Je a te d w it n S h ri h mod m p to n in a n A , p ic tu s ty le w -l in e d re d h e il l re s s e re lo o k n d in g in g lu s ju s t a b c io u s ove h e r knee s.

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Giulietta

Lacoste

Jonathan Saunders

Christian Dior

Designer Name

Beth Postle

Emilio Pucci

S a l va t o re Fe r ra g a m o

Preen by T hornt on Breg azzi

C a ro l i n a H e r re ra

Daks

B o t t e g a Ve n e t a

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ade a lw a y s m en s have a ic tr e m n Thyss th a t g e o F io n a Vo g s s in e w n o ro h a S B te m e n t, ss. e x tr a s a s h io n s ta le w it h ty s tr o n g fa s e th s p o rt s

Balmain Ve r s a c e

Geometrics For fall, bright geometric shapes dotted dresses and wild curvilinear silhouettes slithered their way around wraps.

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Élan Everlasting

C o ur te sy o f the Metrop olitan Museum of Ar t: Francesco Scavullo (this p ag e), Victor Skrebneski (op p osite)

BY CHERIE BURNS

HOW COULD I SAY NO? Jacqueline de Ribes had invited me to Paris to meet with her. She was looking for a writer for a book she was working on, and because I had interviewed her several years earlier for a biography I was writing, I was on her list. I knew her world would be the rich and rarified Paris that I had always imagined but never seen. De Ribes’ name has long been synonymous with high fashion, Parisian elegance, and a glorified social life. From her aristocratic upbringing she rose to become the expressive, broadly influential woman and fashion icon of her time. Married to a French count, she was hailed by social arbiters as the “Queen of Paris” several decades ago. Her career in fashion—from a head-turning trendsetter to esteemed designer and eventual style icon—is about to be celebrated by an exhibition at the Costume

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This page: Jacqueline de Ribes photographed in 1983 by Victor Skrebneski in a dress of her own design. > Opposite page: A 1986 photograph by Francesco Scavullo of de Ribes wearing a dress of her own design. “Jacqueline de Ribes: The Art of Style” will be on view at the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute from November 19, 2015, through February 21, 2016.

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Ge t ty Im a ge s: Ro n Ga le ll a, D a vi d Le e s

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This spread, clockwise from bottom left: Milana Windisch Graetz, Egon von Fürstenberg, and Jacqueline de Ribes in 1973 at the Golden, Olden Days of Burlexque Phoenix House Benefit; de Ribes standing before a collection of her own designs in Paris in 1985; de Ribes with Don Carlos de Beistegui y de Yturbe; the countess Jacqueline de Ribes, wearing Christian Dior, photo-

Co u r te sy o f th e M e tro p ol i ta n Mu se u m o f Ar t: Ro lo f f B en y E st ate

graphed in 1959 by Roloff Beny.

Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in November. The day I arrived her chauffeur took me to the de Ribes’ family mansion, a three-storied hôtel particulier in the 8th arrondissement. Inside the gate the concierge directed me across the cobblestoned courtyard to a door beneath a protective marquee. A small glass elevator delivered me to the second floor, which on that day was a hive of activity as the Countess’s staff was readying the catalog and account of her life for the upcoming exhibition in New York. Her archivist, Stéphane Goriau, his scarf flowing, was busy at a long table covered with boxes of photos and newspaper clippings in her book-lined office. I looked for a place to put down my purse. Nicolas Pages, a book designer, was working with a myriad of images of de Ribes on his computer from the small adjacent room. Always considered a great natural beauty with her long, elegant line and seductive, intelligent gaze, de Ribes had inspired some of the best photographers of her time—Richard Avedon, Horst P. Horst, Irving Penn, Victor Skrebneski, Cecil Beaton, and Francesco Scavullo, among others—to capture her allure in photos. Those images

launched her fast-rising trajectory into a rarified fashion world. De Ribes was not at the mansion that morning. My meeting with her would occur later, in her apartment. She no longer lives in the residence on Rue de la Bienfaisance, finding the house where she spent her married life with her in-laws too antiquated and stuffy for modern times. She now uses it as the base of her professional operations. Next door to her office on the second floor was a small, charming, shelf-lined kitchen and a narrow table against the wall set with crystal goblets, Haviland plates, and silverware. The archivist, her book designer, her publicist from New York, and Harold Koda, curator of the Met’s Costume Institute, and I sat down together. Linen napkins, hand-embroidered with the de Ribes family crest, were artfully folded at our places. Harold, who has a professional eye for such things, was charmed and fascinated by the way they were folded and asked our server to please show him how to do it. It seemed a trick that only the French could pull off. Lunch, we learned, had been chosen for us by the Countess. After asparagus and giant prawns in a pink sauce followed by salad and éclairs, it was time to begin FA L L 2 0 1 5 /

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This page: The countess de Ribes as photographed by Horst P. Horst for Vogue in 1953 (left); in one of her own couture creations in the 1950s (right). > Opposite page: Arriving at the Oriental Ball at the Hôtel Lambert in Paris, 1969, in a costume and jewelry she designed; at a 1983 party for Yves

work. For my jet-lagged self, a nap might have been more in order, but a call from the Countess that she was ready to see us gave me a spurt of adrenaline. The driver downstairs would take Harold, the publicist, and me to de Ribes’ apartment a short ride away on the Parc Monceau. De Ribes met us in the airy foyer of her classic apartment. Though she is now in her eighties, her long, graceful figure continues to startle with its elegance. A maid in a white apron stood a few feet behind de Ribes. In a fitted ankle-length gray skirt over boots and a turtleneck sweater, de Ribes looked surprisingly modern and professional. She smiled conspiratorially with her guests as she moved deftly through the manners and protocol of her role here. Yes, she was to be called Madame Comtesse in public, but I could refer to her as Jacqueline in private. She was anxious for us to be seated with her at the dining room table under a five-tier crystal chandelier overhead. Blue porcelain chinoiserie sat atop a sideboard and on the mantle of a marble fireplace at the end of the room. It was a bit jarring to see this woman—so associated with historic elegance and European luxury—conducting her business much like the rest of us, in front of large computer screen on a table piled high with notes and photos. Notions of a life of languor were dispelled. Her cellphone rang intermittently. De Ribes is a woman who works and, if she has her way, is likely to do so until her dying day. I had been warned that she prefers working into the night. At three in the afternoon, she was just starting her day. Her attention shifted deftly from small details and whimsy to larger matters of organizing the record of her life and fashion history. Did I like this photo, she asked, or did it have too much hair in it? This one of her on her elbows like a lioness had been frowned upon by her pristine in-laws, she remembered. A fancy European ball, she reminisced, “awakes the most joyful part of one’s imagination.” By the end of the day she had tirelessly demonstrated for Harold how to fold the napkin he had admired at lunch. Her first try wasn’t perfect; the hems did not line up. “Not right,” she sniffed. “The maid did not iron it properly,” she grinned apologetically. She spoke candidly of aging and proudly said she could wear a bikini until she was 75. Then she became philosophical. “I think of myself as a survivor now,” she confided. The following day, after lunch, de Ribes was out when I arrived at her apartment for the afternoon. In the living room, where I waited for her, a candle flickered from the shadows and scented the air. From the living room window I watched her walk with her three-legged cane in the park below. Her

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wonderful, oft-photographed head was ever so slightly bowed under a tan beret and she seemed momentarily lost in thought. Not long after, she arrived before me, standing as perfectly upright as always, dressed in corduroy trousers, a cashmere hoodie, and high-soled pale-pink sequined running shoes. We took our places in the dining room once again and she began to reflect on her life, guided by the photos on her desk. Her well-known style and fashion sense were “achieved,” she says, by her restless, energetic spirit as an antidote to the constrictions of aristocratic French life. “Can you imagine life in a château? What do you do? Play cards? Read in the garden?. . . I had to make life beautiful.” That was her solution. A life of ease and luxury, she insisted, was not for her. “It is just a cage. When I create, I am happiest,” she said. There was often a disarming flash of steeliness, even dismay, from de Ribes when she spoke of the life she has lived. “I am not a superficial woman!” she asserted. Still, she is the last living icon of a certain generation, of a world of style and fashion that no longer truly exists. Her roles as model, muse, and creator of her own label made her one of the most celebrated— and definitive—fashion figures of her time. Sixty ensembles from her private collection will be displayed in November at the Met. Glancing at the photos and papers piled before her, her eyes twinkled triumphantly. “This keeps me from thinking about death and how much time I have left on earth,” she said, fixing her gaze on her listener. “I go to bed and I get up on the doorstep of eternity.” u Cherie Burns is the author most recently of Searching for Beauty: The Life of Millicent Rogers (St. Martin’s Press). Her next book, Diving for Starfish, a jewelry tale, will also be published by St. Martin’s Press.

H o r st P. H o r s t; Ge tt y Im a ge s; Ro n Gale lla

St. Laurent at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City (inset).

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Defining Native American Fashion by

ElizabEth MEighEr

jackets and skirts, fringe… There is something both excitingly folkloric and effortlessly primal about clothing inspired by traditional Native American attire. After all, the only fashion Columbus knew when he arrived in 1492 were voluminous gowns (called “houpelandes”), with their sweeping floor-length sleeves, and the revealing doublets and hose of Renaissance Italy. In the U.S., Native Americans are considered to be people whose pre-Columbian ancestors were indigenous to lands within the nation’s modern boundaries, composed of numerous distinct tribes, bands, and ethnic groups. Many of these groups survive intact today as sovereign nations. The terms Native Americans use to refer to themselves vary regionally and generationally, with many older Native Americans self-identifying as “Indians” or “American Indians.” Younger Native Americans often identify themselves as “Indigenous.” Native Americans took the task of making clothing more seriously than European settlers. They primarily used animal hides, which they hunted, skinned, and worked to the proper softness before fashioning it into a shirt, pants, or warm winter coat. In Native cultures, dresses were designed and decorated not only to be aesthetically pleasing, but also to reveal specific information about the wearer. Certain symbols on a dress referred to the woman’s tribe, her marital status, and to the prowess of her husband or father as a hunter or trader. For example, since elk have at most two eyeteeth, a dress adorned with dozens or even hundreds of elk eyeteeth signaled that the men in the family were skilled hunters.

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Co u r te sy o f th e D e You n g M us e um . O p po s i te : E dw ard S . C ur ti s Co lle cti o n

Beaded belts and boots, Navajo prints, buttery pony skin

This page: A Wishram woman wearing bridal garb, photographed by Edward Curtis in 1910. > Opposite page: From his Fall 2002 Couture Collection, Jean Paul Gaultierâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lavish wedding dress with an alabaster white feather Native American headdress and Inuit-style hooded coat, lined with embroidery and fur.

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Thia page: A Sioux two-hide dress with a fully beaded yoke in sky blue, made circa 1900 in South Dakota. > Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Mohican chief with his son and daughter; pair of D o ug las M i lle r / Ke y sto n e / G et ty I ma ge s

Th e G e o rge G us tav H e ye Ce n te r. O p p o si te : Ralp h T. Co e C o lle c ti o n ;

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Seneca Moccasins from 1830 made of Native-tanned skin, quill, silk, and glass; singing duo Sonny and Cher in London to promote their current hits, 1965; Looks from Bethany Yellowtailâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection, B. Yellowtail; portrait of Raquel Welch by Franco Rubartelli, 1973.

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Traditional Native American clothing has been the source of inspiration for countless well-known fashion designers—think Cher, dressed in one of her elaborate, feathered Bob Mackie ensembles, belting out her chart-topping hit “Half-Breed,” about the daughter of a Cherokee mother and a white father. In 2002, fashion’s bad boy designer Jean Paul Gaultier, well-known for teasing at cultural taboos, was praised for creating a lavish couture wedding dress with an alabaster white feather Native American headdress and an Inuit-style hooded coat, lined with embroidery and fur. In recent years, a number of fashion designers have come under fire for “playing Indian” for profit. The Navajo Nation sued Urban Outfitters in 2012 for using its trademarked name to market accessories and apparel. In August of 2013, H&M was criticized for selling Native American–inspired headdresses in its accessories department. This past April, Coach raised eyebrows among Native American activists with the announcement of its new spring collection, “A Tribe Called Coach,” described as a “free-spirited, festival-inspired take on the tribal trend.” In a day and age when most of us hope to remain “P.C.” and culturally respectful, where do we draw the line between cultural inspiration and cultural appropriation? And if cultural cross-dressing is a particularly dangerous game, especially in this era of the all-seeing Internet, why do stars and stylists alike continue to risk offense? As long as nudity isn’t a socially acceptable option, we are what we wear—and our desire to define ourselves through derivative apparel can either enrich or deprive the source community. Staying on the right side of the inspiration-appropriation divide requires individual awareness, and attention to the meaning (or sacredness), source, and similarity of the items with which we adorn ourselves. What is the significance of the necklace you’re about to put on: is it just jewelry or a set of prayer beads? Did the source community invite you to wear that traditional robe, perhaps via voluntary sale, or has it been used ceremonially in a longstanding tradition of sacred ritual? Today, authentic, Indigenous Crow/Northern Cheyenne designer Bethany Yellowtail is considered one of the most highly regarded Native American designers. Yellowtail draws inspiration from “the sacred and re-imagines it for the contemporary woman,” breathing new life into ancestral knowledge and redefining Native-inspired design with her label, B. Yellowtail. The Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising graduate, who is from Crow (Apsáalooke) and Northern Cheyenne Nations in South Eastern Montana, has made waves on her own terms with her latest collection, “The Mighty Few.” “For me, my mission is not about trying to combat cultural appropriation,” Bethany explained. “I simply want to carve out a space where an authentic voice and an authentic representation of Native America exists and thrives. If that means we’re combating cultural appropriation while just being true to ourselves, then that’s a bonus.” You can see more of Bethany’s work on her website, Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter. u

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Co u r te sy o f th e G e o rge Gu st av H e ye Ce n t er

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Opposite page: Apsaalooke (Crow) cotton muslin dress in vibrant red and green wool with elk teeth and seed beads, made in Montana circa 1890. > This page: Goldie Jamison Conklin of the Heron Clan, from the Allegany Reservation, in Western New York (1892-1974).

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Kicking It With Hunter Boots by

Hunter boots are so authoritative, they influenced British politics last year. In a new biography about David Cameron, Cameron at 10 by Anthony Seldon and Peter Snowdon, the boots feature as a symbol of the prime minister’s public image: During the first months of 2014, England was beset with record-setting floods, and Cameron had to visit the affected areas. But he eschewed his personal green Hunter boots for fear of looking too “posh”and had an aide run out and buy him a less-recognizable brand. The plan backfired; the other boots were too obviously new, and the public saw through Cameron’s pandering. The P.M. should have known better and embraced Hunter’s status. The heritage brand has a quality lineage for a reason, and it’s getting even more popular with each successive generation.

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L i Ly H o a g L a n d

This spread: With the leaves turning and the weather starting to get wet, Hunter is offering a new collection for all the students on their way back to school, from their beloved

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boots to waterproof outerwear.

This page: Carrying books around is a more stylish endeavor thanks to this Hunter tote. > Opposite page: A rainy day deserves a sunny Hunter umbrella; Kate Moss popularized Hunter boots as

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high festival fashion (inset).

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While the ubiquitous “Green Welly” has always been seen at horse races and polo matches, Hunter got a serious boost to its cool factor when model Kate Moss was seen wearing them at the trendy Glastonbury Festival. Suddenly, the boots that had been a quiet staple stomped their way into the cultural zeitgeist. All the mini fashionistas absolutely needed have several pairs in a rainbow of colors and styles to go with their boho chic festival wear, prompting Hunter to release a collection specifically tailored to those tastes. Many credit Hunter’s creative director, Alasdhair Willis, with adeptly handling this newfound popularity. As husband to designer Stella McCartney, he knows a thing or two

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about what is fashionable, and has made innovation a renewed focus of the brand. But of course, to everything there is a season, and as the time for festivals is ending (along with that ludicrous flower crown trend, we hope), everyone is transitioning into the first days of school. As students scramble to finish their summer reading list, Hunter has rolled out a new back to school collection. The offerings are replete with everything from backpacks and totes, for carrying the aformentioned books, to umbrellas and outerwear, for getting to class dry on a wet autumn day. And, of course, even trendier boots. Clearly, what people associate with Hunter is quality luxury products, and with its new collections, the heritage brand has been booming with the younger set. This is a generation which appreciates authenticity above all, and what they value in luxury items are not just status symbols, but trendy craftsmanship. Maybe if Cameron had consulted with the nearest student before changing his footwear, he could have avoided committing that misstep. Class is in session, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wearing Hunter. u

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This page: Loading up to get to school, no matter what kind of stormy weather lies ahead, is easier with the stylish pieces from Hunterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new collection. > Opposite page: Match your classic green wellingtons to a new umbrella (above); Hunterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s backpacks can

Cour tesy of Hunter

handle the toughest semester (below).

New York Fashion Show Reviews by

Alex TrAvers

This year we got something new. It’s called New York

This page: Details from Michael Bastian’s Spring 2016 runway show (inset). > Opposite page: A few looks from Ralph Lauren’s Pre-Spring presentation, including an image of the Spring 2016 men’s wear collection.

Pa tr i c k Mc Mu lla n

Fashion Week: Men’s. That’s right, a dedicated men’s fashion week in New York. Milan has its own. Paris has its own. London’s is a huge success. Now it’s our turn. At first, I thought it was wildly unnecessary. Why can’t they just show, like they have in the past, during the women’s shows in New York? I never found much scheduling conflict. But I do realize that the dedicated week is good for emerging designers. More time in the spotlight. I’ll be excited to see how it goes and look out for new talent. But for now, here were my thoughts on two collections from the NYFW: Men’s and three women’s Resort 2016 shows.

Co u r te sy o f Ralp h L a ure n ; Pa tr i c k M c Mul la n

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>Ralph Lauren Equestrianism is a theme that has long compelled Ralph Lauren. He sees the sport as regal and elegant. Maybe in the past the motif hit your sweet spot when you were shopping at one of his stores. Maybe it’ll hit it again with this Pre-Spring collection that starts with two or three equine-inspired looks, shifts to suits and dresses in desert khaki, jumps to a few safe evening pieces in black, gives us two fantastic dresses in lightweight denim, then concludes with floor-length gowns in white. Let’s talk through it all. There’s a cropped leather jacket in soft calfskin leather that fits in with the equine theme. It’s nice. Most of the khaki looks are fine. To add flair, Lauren pairs them with colorful blouses. But you’ve seen this all before. You’ve also seen black leather dresses and black trousers. What you haven’t seen is a floor-length dress with a topstitched denim bodice that morphs into a flowing black chiffon skirt. It’s the star of the show. The looks in white here are pretty, but aren’t particularly exciting. O.K., Lauren plays it safe here, but that denim and black chiffon dress is irresistible so there’s really no need to complain. FA L L 2 0 1 5 /

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> Carolina Herrera For Carolina Herrera, designing clothes is a reflex. Since 1980, she has run laps around fashion’s fast-paced schedule, producing several collections each year. At 76, she shows no sign of slowing down. Sure, not every show reaches the heights that extend from some of her earlier collections. But each bears the stamp of a virtuoso who sees the world like no one else. On its surface, Herrera’s Resort 2016 collection feels light and playful. With warm, soft colors and floral prints, innocence and purity seem to be the major themes. But look closely. A blue sleeveless shift may just appear to be an ordinary girlygirl dress, except X-shaped corset-like lace ribbons tie up the side, which is slit all the way down to them hem. Innocent? I think not. Actually, look closer because I got it wrong (as usual). Those aren’t lace ribbons lace; they’re bows. Neat trick. Another note: The innovation behind the fabrics available today, whatever the flaws in the clothes themselves, is at a high level. Kick that up a notch when you watch Herrera mold double-bonded jersey—which looks and feels like neoprene—into a nuanced column dress with utilitarian parachute straps. There’s no denying that the many facets of fashion move her. And in turn, her designs move us. > Duckie Brown Steven Cox and Daniel Silver specialize in incisive runway shows. Unfortunately, their latest collection, titled Funny Duckie, only ignites indifference. I’m surprised. If anyone at the first New York Fashion Week: Men’s might really impress, I thought it would be these guys, especially after rumors that their business may shutter. Not so. The designers sent out flat-front trousers and T-shirts. Some shirts came in a transparent organza. Others looked like chiffon blouses. Their trousers, with hugely oversized waists tied up by large drawstrings, resembled Uncle Scrooge’s moneybags. Over-exaggeration in fashion is usually meant to symbolize some sort of reinvention. I don’t know what Cox and Silver, both talented designers, were hoping to achieve by ballooning trousers, M1 jackets, and T-shirts. But all I can cull from their Spring 2016 collection is this: exaggeration can disguise the familiar. Fortune-cookie stuff.

Co u r te sy o f re sp e ct i ve d e si g ne r s ; Pa tr i c k Mc Mu lla n

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This page: Models swing from a truss; images from the Duckie Brown Spring 2016 runway show; Duckie Brown designers Daniel Silver and Steven Cox. > Opposite page: A selection of looks from Carolina Herreraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Resort 2016 presentation, which took place at her New York City studio.

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This page: Looks from Dennis Basso’s Resort 2016 collection, which featured many jackets and dresses in black and white, like the laser cut coat pictured here. The designer also made plenty of dresses and daywear in nude tones, light creams, yellows, and pinks; Dennis Basso backstage at his Fall 2015 runway show in New York. > Opposite page: Michael Bastian’s most recent Spring 2016 collection, a subtle ode to 1970s California—though “more dressed-up,” he declared—managed to update and makeover a much romanticized American style; Bastian (pictured lower left).

> Dennis Basso Full disclosure: I only saw these clothes hanging on the racks of Basso’s studio, not on models, which sucks because the clothes he makes are meant to move. But me not being able to see the clothes on a model isn’t Basso’s fault. I just came too late in the day. The model had already left. For his Resort 2016 collection, the designer showed a lot of dresses and daywear in black and white. I liked that he did that for the cruise season. You may not. If you don’t, Basso made plenty of pretty, peachy dresses in nude tones, creams, yellows, and light pinks. They’ll be in stores late November. Here’s why I liked the use of black and white: Emilio Pucci, another designer associated with resort-y destinations, once made an entire collection in black and white. It was arguably one of his best. This wasn’t Basso’s best, but it was a noble effort. Remember, we’re not seeing these clothes in context here. Not at a runway show, not at Basso’s showroom, not in this magazine. So let’s play a game. Look to your left at the jacket (try and spot all the nuances) and swimsuit combination and imagine that model strolling the St. Tropez sands. Hell. It’s wild. It’s wry. It’s utterly excessive. Now do you get it? > Michael Bastian Have you noticed that the past is everywhere? Especially at the Spring and Resort 2016 runway shows. Take a look at Michael Bastian’s most recent collection, a subtle ode to 1970s California—though “more dressed-up,” he declared—that manages to update and makeover a much romanticized American style. In a good way. Mostly. Bastian, a New Englander at heart, dresses his men and women in cashmere cardigans, banana leaf–printed trousers, and linen shirts—the kind of clothing, he pointed out, that was once exhibited at Fred Hayman’s retail store Giorgio Beverly Hills. Bastian’s awe of the ’70s is detectable, even through the ultra-sharp tailoring and preppy punches. Under a double-breasted suit hides a denim shirt, its wide polo collar unfastened. It’s a neat gesture, a bold blend of disparate styles, but with Bastian’s strict adherence to his own sartorial preferences over blind loyalty to the time period, the equilibrium never feels off balance. u

Co u r te sy o f re sp e ct i ve d e si g ne r s ; Pa tr i c k Mc Mu lla n

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Jane Birkin & The “Birkin” by

Hilary Geary ross

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O p p o s i t e : Re p o r t e r s A s s o c i e s / G a m m a - Ke y s t o n e v i a G e t t y I m a g e s

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Photographer Kate Barry, Jane Birkin’s talented daughter, captures the allure of actress Sophie Marceau (who resembles a young Jane Birkin), while reviving the mystery of Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres’ “La Grande Odalisque,” painted in 1814. > Opposite: Portrait of Jane Birkin, taken in the 1960s.

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Once upon a time, over three decades ago, Jean-Louis Dumas, the CEO of Hermès, was seated on a flight from Paris to London next to the beauteous actress Jane Birkin. Suddenly, Jane’s straw travelling bag tumbled to the floor, sending its precious contents all over the place and leaving the embarrassed goddess to clean up her mess, humbly, off the floor. The damsel in distress complained to Dumas that it was absolutely impossible to find a leather weekend bag she liked, so she had to resort to carrying an impractical, flimsy straw one. The kind CEO graciously solved her problem, coming to her rescue like a true knight in shining armor by creating a big comfy exquisitely crafted bag named just for her. What a compliment! The soft, handmade, rectangular bag, luxuriously lined in lambskin, had clean, classical lines punctuated with sleek, shiny hardware. A very practical lock and key was attached attached with a matching leather cord, so the contents could be tucked safely inside and never ever fall out again. The Hermès stamp was tastefully hidden under the flap— no flashy logos for the discreet Hermès brand. It did not take long for the

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world’s movers and shakers to fall in love with the deluxe bag. It was soon worn on the arms of the most glamouros and chicest women. The Birkin bag became the “it” bag of all “it” bags—carried by the most photogenic royals, celebrities, actresses, fashion editors, socialites, designers, and jet setters everywhere, all the time. Meanwhile, the ever-clever Hermès store would only produce a very few Birkins and never let their stores know when they would arrive, or even how many. Fashion-conscious ladies became desperate to get one (despite the hefty price tag). This savvy marketing ploy created a great mystique and allure for the Birkin and—as human nature has proven over and over again—we all desire what we cannot have or what is out of reach. Soon, there was a waitlist for the coveted bag and, adding to the frustration, the wait list was then closed. Thus the phrase “Birkin bag syndrome” was coined, taking the concept of “hard to get” to a new level. Even pre-owned or used Birkins sell for vast sums at such prestigious auction houses as Christies, Sothebys, and Heritage, as well as luxe websites like 1stdibs.com. The Birkin has become more than a bag—it has become a statement. It reminds me of the

Pa tr i c k Mc Mu lla n ; o pp o si t e : Ke y sto n e / G e tty I m ag es ; R E X US A

“There’s no fun in a bag if it’s not kicked around so that it looks as if the cat’s been sitting on it—and it usually has. The cat may even be in it! I always put on stickers and beads and worry beads. You can get them from Greece, Israel, Palestine— from anywhere in the world.” —Jane Birkin

This page, clockwise from top left: Jane Birkin takes up photography in Cannes, 1975; Jane Birkin’s original Hermès “Birkin”; Birkin carrying her emblematic wicker basket; Birkin carrying her daughter Charlotte in Nice, 1972; Pattie Boyd, Jane Birkin, George Harrison, and Ringo Starr at Cannes Film Festival, 1968. > Opposite page, clockwise from lower left: Valesca Guerrand-Hermès carrying a Birkin at Bergdorf’s, 2004; Hilary Geary Ross (carrying her Birkin) seated front row next to Eleanor Ylvisaker at Vera Wang’s Fall 2008 show; Kelly Ripa waking with her son, Hermès Birkin in tow; Aerin Lauder (with her black Birkin tucked beneath her seat) and Lauren duPont at Calvin Klein’s Spring 2008 show.

Ke y s t o n e - Fra n c e / G a m m a - Ke y s t o n e v i a G e t t y I m a g e s

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This page: Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin at Cannes Film Festival, 1974. > Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Jane Birkin lying on a roulette table, 1965; Birkin wearing an ensemble by designer Federico Forquet, photographed by Jeanloup Sieff in Rome for Harperâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bazaar, 1966; Birkin and Serge Gainsbourg in the film SĂŠrieux comme le Plaisir, directed by Robert Benayoun, 1974; Birkin and Serge Gainsbourg on holiday in Cannes, August 1972 (the couple married in Paris that September).

This page: Jane Birkin holding a Bengal tiger cub at the zoo in the 1990s; Jamee Gregory and Hilary Geary at an Escada fashion show benefitting The Boys’ Club of New York, 2003 (note Hilary’s Hermès Birkin). > Opposite page: Jane Birkin with her daughters Kate Barry (whose father was John Barry), and Charlotte Gainsbourg (whose father was Serge

Magritte painting with “this is not a pipe” written across the canvas.The Birkin is not just a bag, but a trophy, a prize, a status symbol, an obsession for the chic. (Victoria Beckham is said to have 100 of them!) Unfortunately, a “Grimm” little twist has been added to the Birkin fable: Jane Birkin, an animal rights activist, recently complained to Hermès about the treatment of the alligators being farmed for her namesake bag, and asked that her name be removed. I love animals and reptiles, too, but I can think of a thousand women who would happily have a Hermès bag named after them...including me! u

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“Any bag that’s with me will take the same course as I will. It will take the same airplanes and will be squashed in the same way and will be used as a cushion in the airports.” —Jane Birkin

Pa tr i c k Mc Mu lla n . O p p o si te p age : Le on a rd de Rae my / Sy gm a/ C or b i s

Gainsbourg), Aix-en-Provence, France, 1974.

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1960s “It is most true , stilus virum aguit—our styl Burton in the e betrays us.” late 1500s. So wrote Rob ert Five -hu ndr ed year s late r, styl e rem ains a curi can not be limi ous con cep t. Its ted to a sing le sign ifica nce mea ning , as som ethi “tas tele ss” to ng “sty lish ” to ano ther. The wor d itse lf will one is ofte n betw een inse curi fore ver hov er ty and self -con ove r the fine fide nce . Tas te, equ ally stee ped line styl e’s inhe rent in mys tery, tho fore run ner, is ugh it is mor beh olde r. Ind e ofte n seco nd eed , tren ds will natu re to its alw ays be cop tho se who are ied, and fash ion rep fort una te eno ugh rod uce d, by to affo rd them they are— inst . But styl e and inct ive, inna te, tast e are wha t and inef fabl e. Ear ly last fall, as Joan na Bak er and I drif ted of our favo rite leis urel y thro ugh low -key eate ries dinn er at one , the top ic of con agre ed that the vers atio n turn term “sty le” pre ed to styl e. We dica tes tim eles Kel ly, Jack ie s, effo rt-fr ee sim Ken ned y, and Grace Meigher By the tim e coff plic ity. Gra ce Aud rey tou Hep che bur n wer e amo d on, each cele ee was serv ed, bra ted for her ng the nam es we had rais ed mea sure up to uniq ue sens e of we an obv ious , yet thes e icon s of und erst ated eleg sim ple eleg anc crit ical que stio zigz agg ing hem e? Or wou ld thei n: Wh o in this anc e. line s too ofte n eme rgin g gen r lega cies be bur plag uing us tod erat ion wou ld We flip ped thro ied ben ay. eath the mou nds of ugh a ton y fash kits chy fabr ics ion mag (ren own esqu e or Aud reyand ed for defi ning insp irin g. To our all thin gs “en dism ay, few such sim plic ity of plai vog ue” ) in sear des igns cou ld n, whi te pea rls; ch of som ethi ng be fou nd. The the cris p, sop mod ern fash ion? Gra ce Kel lyalw ays dep end hist icat ion of Now, dea r read able blac k shif a bas ic tren ch— er, don ’t be dist our belo ved boo t; the poli shed how did thes e raug ht, as our tleg jean s, our clas sic stap les sear ch was hard chic pea sant tun man age to esca wor thy, new add ly a witc h-h unt ics, or that per pe itio ns sho uld . Wh ere wou ld fect littl e pair be inte grat ed we be with out In the followin of met allic flat into , rath er than g pages and in s? We mea n only segr ega issu ted es ahead, we hope able example has from the list of to sug gest that to rekindle the clas risen above mer sics . memories and e fashion. Equ butions will even legacies of thos ally so, we hop tually transcen e legendary ladi e to recognize d time and tren es whose remarkhoping to join those new beh ds as well. Mod the ranks of “ab olders of style ern women solute fashion” and taste whose words of Coco might be better contriMarianna John Chanel, who cam serv ed by the son Baker hold e close to cap nature of real style ing Joanna Bake turi ng the encompa r . “Fashion is not ssing something that she wrote. “Fa exists in dresses shion is in the sky, only in the street. Fash ,” the way we live, ion has to do with what is happen ideas, ing.” How true We dedicate this . How simple. How eleg premiere issue ant! to our mothers Marianna Bak —Grace Meighe er—whose styl e (and taste!) has r and been our true inspiration.

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S T Y L E

Katherine Hepburn 1956

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T I A L E S S E N Q U I N T JEW ELRY

S T Y L E

Kate Moss 1998

Sporty

The White Button Down Shirt. “A white-shirt woman is a busy, inspired person,” says Isaac Mizrahi. “I think of Kate Hepburn as a white-sh irt woman.” We recomm Steven Stolman’s fitted end white linen shirt, size P-XL, $145. Available at Steven Stolman, Palm Beach and Southampton, or stevenst olman.com. 7, The Classic Trench. Seen here, the Burberry knee-length classic trench $1,280. 866.589.0499, www.bu in light beige, rberry.com. 6.

2 11

“I wish I had invented blue jeans,” wrote Yves Saint Laurent. “They have expressi modesty, sex appeal, simplici on, ty—all I hope for in my clothes.” Shown here is Ernest Sewn, from An Earnest Cut & Sew, 821 Washing ton Street, 212.242.3414. 8.

9. Black Chanel sunglass es—Jackie O. was the original pioneer. Featured here are black Chanel sunglass es with the oversize frame and magnetic “clip-on” system to switch from one color to another. Chanel boutiqu es worldwide, www.chanel.com .

10. An attractive scarf is one of the most versatile musthaves in a woman’s wardrob e. Asprey Horse Collecti on scarves in mint and orange, $245 each. Asprey, 800.883.2777, www.asprey.com .

5 Q14

/ AUGUST 2005

Catherine Deneuve 1968

7 Oppo site, left: Lu Fa ll 19 cien Le 97 . Op Long, po sit Album (A ss ou e, top de Fig lin e, : In Ul aro, $5 0) , tim ate Dresse Be tti na St yle d Lists Zil ka and the tra ck th em s th e , inc lud wome Be st n wh ing Ba Dessès o’v be Pa e top , L’Offic ped ley . Th iel, Su is pa ge : Jea mmer 1947. n

6 Women such self-expression. eth Paltrow a synonym for urn, and Gwyn Style is really —not Katherine Hepb their own vision as Babe Paley, they followed y can icons because chunky jewelr became style trends. Big, one or r of changing key piece. Wear one the roller coaste to lf but limit yourse y that you really e only jewelr look fantastic, choos And the most. signature style. two rings, at to develop your way great a love. It's

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2005

212.751.3181. ts, $395-485. elephant bracele .9000. enamel and Fifth Ave., 212.315 1. HERMES “H” 50. t, $2,950. 730 charms, $385-5 18k gold pendan 2. BULGARI t, $1,800, and gold bracele o bangles, $95. SCULLY 18k 3. SCULLY & GRAZIANO Bambo .2590. 4. R.J. gold Trinity 212.755 olor R Three-c Scully & Scully, 3.4000. 5. CARTIE . 212.753.9292 Avenue, 212.75 Fifth $885. Saks ring, At . L Gold cigar 212.421.3030 RTIER. 6. DUNHIL recious stones. ring. 800.CA semi-p with t Gold bracele 7. DAVID WEBB

of Warner Studios.

have als o of pear achieved ico ls n statu pair of with match s, such ing stu ki ds, sle as a luminou teed to ller shades, ek blac an s bo k heels strand an Her ost any ou d an except , tfi ional mès K handba a clever elly or t from aver these ag g guar afor Birkin an). Equi e to excelle sure to ementione nt (su pped d class emanat ch as with a ics she m e , an timele mixtu y 21stay be ss, cla re of centur or wh ss On th y fem at note ere she mig ic style, no ale is an easie ht be m , achiev atter headin r where g. ago. To process thes ing conven tional e day’s style m past— fashio days, as op ight se po n is fa ab em r mor sed to a few compr ove and be e flexi yond ise decade the lim ble th s less. Fo d within a itations an in singl r exam the of fleet minim ple, th e line or se ing al ason, e options trends women weight, a sh length of skirts are en ar were curren dfrequen p contrast order tly to mod from tly foun days pa carries ify en dictat d runn tire wa es of th st, ing to rdrobe e fash their ta when Today, s to fit ion au ilors in more the m them, women thorities. ost cu a deve rrent op lo t to we tance of tim pment that ar piec ele no growth es that ss t within classics, bu only reinfo fla tter rc t also sic is alw the wo reveals es the impo rld ay s of more rcritica high fa the lat compl ter ementa shion. A we l, positive style in of which ca ry than ll-cut to a fa n trans clasam shion So ale victim form a wom omentary rt the fa . an of press m reason d, that fro edia, put ab it out le m fash sion is on th ion PR clear to fash e wire, and For wh : The class notify ion ic mus all tweake ile the class t-haves design, the ics mig d, co are he ht will alw modernize re to sta nclud, or em occasiona ays pr y. lly be evail. bellish revam u ed, th ped, eir tim eless sty le

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Katherine Hepburn

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ELIZABETH MEIGHER CO-EDITOR

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Katherine Hepburn photo by CS Bull, courtesy of the Kobal Collection; Kate Moss photo courtesy of Burberry; Catherine Deneuve photo courtesy of Columbia Pictures

1970s

: Pages from the inauClockwise, from top left including a letter from gural Fall 2005 issue, tive photos of their respec the editors (featuring ous fam Car tey on his mothers); Michael Mc w by Whitney Miller (no d nde rou sur red vespa aEliz ), llon ley (now Me Douglass), Nicole Han le), fvil Neu de Baker (now beth Meigher, Joanna list a r; rce Dabney Me Tinsley Mortimer, and st-haves” that every “mu Q l ntia of quintesse ne jewelry page; Clementii woman should own; a e osit Opp > . classic fashion Drackett’s story about wn Cro s (in The Thoma page: Faye Dunaway e. er of Q’s premiere issu cov the on 8) Affair, 196

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RSAMIAN EDWARD BA

this lives on to y mystiqus,e and fash ioni stas The Kenned hro pist rite esse s, phi lant elot . Q favo Cam day as actr r thei mem orie s of d in cou ntclin g to the bee n feat ure ed y Ona ssis has Des igne rs long Jack ie Ken ned con of styl e. bea a emu as to es mpt less mag azin coll ecti ons atte and cur ren t to dre ss her, re. atti ant . al yet eleg married to Mrs man late her casu the that however, tlemen and Many forget, iration to gen s, hava lasting insp ther was Bro y oks ned Ken mn, Bro gn. This autu y during his menswear desi n F. Kenned dressed Joh that features ing exclusively a collection Oval sident, offers e for both the years as Pre riat rop app leisurewear in Hyannis. se Hou suiting and ite r summer Wh Kennedy thei Jack and ts, ice Off sachuset okline, Mas parents who Born in Bro demanding by stern and gs, as politics was reared ieve great thin in the r sons to ach ran dee p with expected thei acy lom y tion al dip ols, Kenned and inte rna at local scho r brief stints household. Afte

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Q U I N T E S S E N T I BEAUTY A L SUN

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A L N T I S S E N T E Q U I TIONS SELEC S TA F F

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Known mo her acting re for her , Mansfield voluptous represents physique tha the summe a feminine n r. 2. hampton ideal, especi sun Make and after ally for sure skin is playing in hydrated bef the sun usi $35. 3. dr. ng ore Privet Blo brand om body loti with the new t Protect skin agains on. t harmful advanced UVA/UVB broad spe and non-gre rays ctrum loti asy. $35. 4. on, which perricon using the is oil-free e md Loo High Potenc k perfectly y Eye Lift. rested afte Gold Energ $95. 5. chan r izing eye cre tecaille am restores rejuvenate The Nano s the eye are tone, diffuse a. $260. 6. s light, and izing mist guerlain will enrich This soothin your comple that hydrat g mo isturxion with es skin and a vegetable amplifies you don’t have protein r tan. $55. to go to the 7. la prairi ocean to get Advance Ma e You its benefit rine Biolog s, thanks to y day cream Your hair the will look sun with SPF 20. $175. kissed wit 9. kiehl’s 8. oribe h the 24k This limited gold pomade edition Arg surfer Kelly . $49. an body loti Slater sup on co-create ports enviro d by nmental init iatives. $55 .

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On August 8, Sean Avery (the former New York Ranger) and Hilary Rhoda (the model) fêted their collaboration “Solid & Striped x Hilary + Sean” at The Surf Lodge. Guests, including Kelly Killoren Bensimon, Andy Cohen, Leandra Medine, and Natalie Joos, were treated to cocktails and a BBQ, plus dessert from Good Humor. The couple—who are to be married in the Hamptons on October 10—teamed with Solid & Striped (the brand of swimwear for men and women) to create a capsule collection inspired by their lives in SoHo and Southampton. Et voilà!

1. Sean Avery and Hilary Rhoda with Andy Cohen 2. Alex Hirsch, Jessica Grauso, Elizabeth Scoditti, and Alex Stern 3. Delta Spirit 4. Peter Davis and Kelly Killoren Bensimon 5. Atmosphere 6. Isaac Ross, Michelle Flesh, and Daniel Laub 7. Steven Chaiken, Ruthie Friedlander, and Leandra Medine 8. André Saraiva and Tommy Saleh

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Versailles Martell, the cognac house established in 1715, cel-

ebrated its 300th anniversary with a glittering event at the Palace of Versailles, which was attended by 300 guests from 15 countries. Diane Kruger, the brand’s ambassador and the guest of honor, toasted to Martell: “Tonight, we brought the modern spirit of French Art de Vivre to life to celebrate Martell Cognac’s 300th anniversary. It’s not often that you get to attend such a spectacular event at such an iconic location and it has been a privilege to be a part of the celebrations this evening.” The dinner was designed by chef Paul Pairet.

1. Atmosphere 2. Atmosphere 3. Louis-Marie de Castelbajac, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, and Guilhem de Castelbajac 4. Diane Kruger and Philippe Guettat 5. Solange Knowles

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designed to be served on ice) hosted a luncheon with Olivia Palermo at the REVOLVE House on July 24. The event was attended by the fashion set, including Betty Autier (of Le Blog De Betty), Kristina Bazan (of Kayture), Sara Escudero (of Collage Vintage), Negin Mirsalehi (of Negin Mirsalehi), Arielle Nachmani (of Something Navy), Rumi Neely (of Fashion Toast), and Courtney Trop (of Always Judging)—who were dressed in looks from REVOLVE. They were treated to white goblets of champagne, which were garnished with berries and fresh fruit.

1. Rachel Barnes 2. Atmosphere 3. Kristina Bazan 4. Arielle Nachmani and Negin Mirsalehi 5. Atlanta de Cadenet Taylor and Olivia Palermo 6. Patricia Bright and guest 7. Lauren Kennedy 8. Moët Ice “Floating Bar” (from reservebar.com)

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New York Champagne Taittinger was the first to usher in the

season—the holiday season, that is—with a gathering at the home of Pamela Bell (a founder of Kate Spade). Guests were treated to a multicourse meal with pairings from Champagne Taittinger, as created by chef Sarah Simmons of Birds & Bubbles: Bitter Greens Salad accompanied by Prestige Rosé NV; Moroccan Rubbed Beef Wellington with Smashed Potatoes, Haricot Vert, and Roasted Carrots accompanied by Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2005; and Croque En Bouche accompanied by Nocturne. So, Season’s Greetings to you and yours!

1. Theodore Leaf and Sarah Tracey 2. Bronson van Wyck 3. Kelly Framel and Arthur Ceria 4. Atmosphere 5. Katie Rodgers and Courtney Peterson 6. Edward Barsamian, Ross Matsubara, and Noa Santos 7. Jessica Sailer and Annie Taube

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Water Mill Diana and Joe DiMenna hosted the Piaget Hamp-

tons Cup to benefit the Robin Hood Foundation at the Equuleus Polo Club on August 9. Lovers of the sport attended the spectacle, which featured a match between Team Credit Suisse and Team St. Regis Hotels & Resorts (with Nacho Figueras). Guestsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;including Athena Calderone, Pari Ehsan, Donna Karan, Gabby Karan, Chris Martin, Hanneli Mustaparta, David Saltzman, Harley Viera-Newton, and Rachel Zoeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;socalized at the polo event of the summer, pausing to stomp the divots (and snap a couple of Instagrams).

1. Atmosphere 2. Eric Rutherford, Harley Viera-Newton, Hanneli Mustaparta, and Pari Ehsan 3. Nacho Figueras and Delfina Blaquier 4. Zibby and Andrew Right with Stephen Schwarzman and others 5. Athena Calderone, Hanneli Mustaparta, and Atlanta de Cadenet Taylor 6. Rachel Zoe 7. Team St. Regis Hotels & Resorts with Philippe Leopold-Metzger 8. Diana DiMenna, a guest, Gabby Karan De Felice, Lise Evans, and Donna Karan

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1. MARILYN MONROE knew that there is no room for Monkey Business when it comes to beauty. 2. ÉMINENCE Address acne—and its scarring—with the power of a peel: Clear Skin Willow Bark Exfoliating Peel; $79. 3. LUSH A mask that offers the jolt of a “Cup O’ Coffee,” for a cleanse that’s invigorating; $10.95–$19.95. 4. BLISS For brows that are on fleek, the Holy Brow Tinted Brow Gel is designed to define and volumize your arches; $24. 5. GUERLAIN The Crème de Beauté Cleansing Cream is the ultimate in cleansors: a creamy balm that lavishes your skin with richness; $78. 6. LAURA MERCIER Perfect your pucker with the lasting color of Lip Glacé, which is available in Bronze Gold Accent and Rose Gold Accent; $25. 7. MAKE UP FOR EVER The Ultra HD Stick Foundation—a product created for the faces of film and TV—is designed to achieve a look that’s flawless and natural; $43. 8. CLARINS The Joli Rouge, pictured in Cinnamon, is perfect for autumn; $27. 9. REAL CHEMISTRY The Luminous 3-Minute Peel is the obsession of the beauty-obsessed—an exfoliant that’s above and beyond; $48.

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6 boasted an allure that was as fresh as a daisy. 2. KÉRASTASE The Crème de la Crème is the best of the best, for perfection when styling at home; $39. 3. BUMBLE AND BUMBLE The Full Potential Hair Preserving Shampoo addresses breakage and thinning with Creatine and Menthol; $31. 4. DAVINES The OI / All In One Milk ($16–$30) is introduced with the opening of the ION: Davines Salon + Atelier (41 Wooster Street, 212.343.9060). 5. ALTERNA The Moisture Intense Caviar Oil Crème Pre-Shampoo Treatment is designed to boost the performance of your shampoos and conditioners; $35. 6. ELLIS BROOKLYN The Verb Excellent Body Milk is as inspiring as it is velvety—its scent is an ode to the prose of American authors from Hemingway to Vonnegut; $55 at Shen Beauty (315 Court Street, 718.576.2679). 7. ORIBE The Run-Through Detangling Primer, for taming your tresses; $69. 8. CHANEL Le Vernis in Châtaigne, Vert Obscur, and Écorce Sanguine; $27. 9. YVES SAINT LAURENT Black Opium is “an addictive juice, between darkness and light”—a fragrance to delight; $100.

j ur a te V e ce r ai te fo r E ll is B r o ok ly n

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1 In the twilight hours, the stars shouldn’t be the only things to shine. When the occasion calls for evening wear, take the twilight hours as a time for letting your inner star shine forth. Sometimes bright colors will elicit a little extra attention, but keep in mind it’s often the simpler route—like neutral shades of soft gold and white—that will make your best side sparkle. 1. CHRISTIAN DIOR was the master of the haute look, and he knew that beauty was in the details. Here, the French fashion designer is seen in 1957 adjusting the dress on a model as his Spring collection was being readied for showing. Like Dior, be sure to pay attention to the details, from your waistline to your neckline. 2. BULGARI Serpenti necklace in 18-kt. pink gold with diamond and mother of pearl. Price upon request. 3. ALEXANDRA CLANCY The Dara clutch in gold python. $1,395. 4. DIOR HAUTE COUTURE Embroidered pastel silk organza dress. Price upon request.

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are an adventurous approach to dressing up, and if you can carry them off like these 1970s models did, then we say embrace those stripes. Sometimes a daring print or design can make a statement all its own, and we couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t help but fall for the looks, prints, and patterns found here. 2. H.STERN New from the house of H.Stern, the Genesis ring in 18-kt. noble gold with diamonds. $6,600. 3. CAROLINA HERRERA When you want to feel extra pretty, add a dress or two by Carolina Herrera to your closet, including this orange silk gown from the designerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest Resort collection. $5,990. 4. OSCAR DE LA RENTA Black and gold embroidered specchio Alyssa pump. $1,190 at mytheresa.com. 5. EDIE PARKER Sparkle like an evening star when carrying this star-studded evening clutch. $1,295. 1. BOLD STRIPES

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1. C. Z. GUEST was the portrait of a lady, but she also knew how to have fun, especially when sharing a laugh with friend Peter Lawford. Let Guest serve as a reminder that dressing up sometimes means letting go a little bit. 2. BETTERIDGE Available in Betteridge’s Palm Beach boutique: Dorota’s “Old World” earclips in emerald, sapphire, and ivory. $25,000. 3. VALENTINO Organza long-sleeve gown with painted flower embroidery. $32,900. 4. PRADA Teal satin clutch with stone embellishment. $1,630. 5. STUART WEITZMAN The sleek Pavenudist heel in python Swarovski crystal design. $2,900.

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1. MARILYN MONROE once quipped, “Give a girl the right shoes and she can conquer the world.” But, even without her shoes on, Monroe proved she was queen of the silver screen, if not the world. 2. ZUHAIR MURAD The Beirutborn, Paris-trained designer Zuhair Murad is a favorite of the likes of Taylor Swift, Marion Cotillard, Beyoncé, and Blake Lively. It’s no wonder. Murad merges fashion, fantasy, and fun in his flowy, feminine looks. Why not give it a whirl in this embellished evening dress from the Fall-Winter Couture collection? 3. TIFFANY & CO. The Tiffany Enchant Heart Key Pendant in platinum with round brilliant diamonds. Chain sold separately. $10,500. 4. KOTUR Embrace the embossed with Kotur’s silver embossed Espey pinstripe clutch. $450. 5. CHOPARD When the occasion calls for a cocktail ring, try this new best friend on for size: Chopard’s diamond ring from the High Jewelry Collection, featuring 12.3 carats of diamonds set in 18-kt. white gold. Price upon request.

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SHOPPING INDEX

> Bottega Veneta: 212.371.5511 or bottegaveneta.com. > Bulgari: bulgari.com. > Burberry Prorsum: 877.217.4085 or burberry.com.

C > Calvin Klein: 866.513.0513 or calvinklein.com. > Carlo Pazolini: carlopazolini.com. > Carolina Herrera: 212.249.6552 or carolinaherrera.com. > Cartier: 212.446.3400 or cartier.us. > Chanel: 800.550.0005 or chanel.com. > Chopard: 800.CHOPARD or us.chopard.com. > Christian Dior: 212.249.5822 or dior.com. > Christofle: christofle.com. > Coach: 800.444.3611 or coach.com. > Converse: converse.com.

D > David Webb: 942 Madison Ave., 212.421.3030. > David Yurman: 877.908.1177 or davidyurman.com. > de Grisogono: 212.439.4220 or degrisogono.com. > Devi Kroell: devikroell.com. > Diane von Furstenberg: dvf.com.

Lauren Hutton looks ready to take flight here in fall fashion. After browsing our pages, we have a feeling you might be ready to take off on a flight of your own—straight to the stores (or online, as the case may be). To help you on that journey, we’ve compiled a listing of the vendors featured in this issue, along with some of our go-to favorites. In between shopping, be sure to keep up with Quest and Q online for the latest fashion news: visit questmag.com and follow us on Twitter and Instagram at @questmag.

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SHOP ’TIL YOU DROP! A > Alexandra Clancy: alexandraclancy.com. > Alexis Bittar: alexisbittar.com. > Asprey: 212.688.1811 or asprey.com.

> Diesel Black Gold: dieselblackgold.com. > diptyque: 971 Madison Ave., 212.879.3330. > Dolce & Gabbana: 212.249.4100 or dolceandgabbana.com. > Dsquared2: dsquared2.com.

E > Edie Parker: edie-parker.com. > Elie Saab: eliesaab.com.

> Barneys New York: 888.222.7639 or barneys.com.

> Elie Tahari: elietahari.com.

> Bergdorf Goodman: bergdorfgoodman.com.

> Emilio Pucci: emiliopucci.com.

> Bespoken: bespokennewyork.com.

> Erdem: erdem.com.

> Bloomingdale’s: 800.777.0000 or bloomingdales.com.

> Esquivel: info@esquivelshoes.com.

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SHOPPING INDEX

> Larkspur & Hawk: At Fred Leighton,

> Roberto Coin: At Neiman Marcus or Roberto Coin,

> Fabergé: 694 Madison Ave., 646.559.8848.

773 Madison Ave., or 212.288.1872.

800.853.5958 and us.robertocoin.com.

> Louis Vuitton: 866.VUITTON or vuitton.com.

> Roger Vivier: 212.861.5371 or

rogervivier.com.

> GANT: 646.367.5416 or us.gant.com.

> Ghurka: ghurka.com.

> Manolo Blahnik: 212.582.3007 or

> Roni Blanshay: At Bloomingdale’s, 212.705.2000.

> Gieves & Hawkes: At Bergdorf Goodman.

manoloblahnik.com.

> Rupert Sanderson: rupertsanderson.com.

> Giorgio Armani: 877.361.1176 or armani.com.

> Marchesa: At Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue,

> Gucci: 877.482.2430 or gucci.com.

and marchesa.com.

> Marco Bicego: marcobicego.com.

> Saint Laurent Paris: 212.832.7100 or ysl.com.

> Marina B: marinab.com.

> Saks Fifth Avenue: 877.551.SAKS or

> H. Stern: hstern.net.

> McIntosh: mcintoshlabs.com.

saksfifthavenue.com.

> Harry Winston: harrywinston.com.

> Michael Bastian: At Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys New

> Salvatore Ferragamo: ferragamo.com.

> Hermès: 800.441.4488 or hermes.com.

York, 212.228.3400, or michaelbastiannyc.com.

> Seaman Schepps: seamanschepps.com.

> Hirotaka: At otteny.com.

> Michael Kors: 800.908.1157 or michaelkors.com.

> Scalise: scalise.fr.

> Hueb: 717 Madison Ave. or hueb.com.

> Mikimoto: 800.223.4008 or

> Sheriff & Cherry: sheriffandcherry.com.

> Hunter Boot: usa.hunter-boot.com.

mikimotoamerica.com.

> Shinola: shinola.com.

> Misha Nonoo: mishanonoo.com.

> Shoshanna: At Saks Fifth Avenue, saks.com.

> Rolex: 800.36.ROLEX or rolex.com.

> Smythson: 212.265.4573 or smythson.com.

> Innamorato: innamorato.com.

> Ippolita: ippolita.com.

> Nancy Gonzalez: At Neiman Marcus or

> Stuart Weitzman: 212.823.9560 or

> Irene Neuwirth: At Jeffrey New York, 212.206.1272.

nancygonzalez.com.

www.stuartweitzman.com.

> Ivanka Trump: ivankatrumpcollection.com.

> Neiman Marcus: 800.533.1312 or

J > J.Crew: 800.562.0258 or jcrew.com. > James Perse: jamesperse.com.

> Stella McCartney: stellamccartney.com.

neimanmarcus.com.

> Nirav Modi: 727 Madison Ave. or

> Tiffany & Co.: 561.659.6090 or tiffany.com.

us.niravmodi.com.

> Tom Ford: 212.359.0300 or tomford.com. > Tommy Hilfiger: usa.tommy.com.

> Jill Haber: jillhaber.com.

> Jimmy Choo: 877.955.2466 or jimmychoo.com.

> Oscar de la Renta: 888.782.6357 or

> John Varvatos: johnvarvatos.com.

oscardelarenta.com.

> Kara Ross: kararossny.com.

> Paul Andrew: paulandrew.com.

> Verdura: 745 Fifth Ave. or verdura.com.

> Kate Spade: katespade.com.

> Perry Ellis: perryellis.com.

> Vhernier: vhernier.it.

> Kotur: koturltd.com.

> Prada: 724 Fifth Ave., 212.664.0010, or prada.com.

> Lalique: 888.488.2580 or lalique.com.

> Ralph Lauren: 888.475.7674 or ralphlauren.com.

> La Perla: laperla.com.

> Red Carter: redcartercollection.com.

> Lanvin: 646.439.0380 or lanvin.com.

> Reem Acra: 730 Fifth Ave., Suite 205, 212.319.1800.

> Yliana Yepez: ylianayepez.com.

> Tory Burch: toryburch.com.

V > Valentino: 212.772.6969 or valentino.com. > Van Cleef & Arpels: vancleefarpels.com.

W > Wempe: 212.397.9000 or wempe.com.

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Q119

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

FA L L H O R O S C O P E S

Q120

Capricorn Dec. 22 to Jan. 19 Beware the web. The interesting content you find online will be stolen and posted to social media, without even a hint of appreciation. Also, don’t fully read personal emails that have no effect on your professional life. They will only distract you from the work at hand. > Elvis Presley: January 8, 1935.

Cancer June 21 to July 22

Aquarius Jan. 20 to Feb. 18

Leo July 23 to Aug. 23

A shaman may stop you outside of a restaurant like Bar Boulud and say that your aura hit her like an electric shock. Take her comment as a compliment, because what’s wrong with being an old soul in a young body? The stars say: Absolutely nothing. > Clark Gable: February 1, 1901

“All the world’s a stage, And all the men and women merely players,” wrote William Shakespeare. But what did he mean? You’ve been served some “players,” but that’s not to say there aren’t honest—and great—people in the mix. You don’t always deserve what you get. > Jackie Kennedy: July 28, 1929.

Pisces Feb. 19 to Mar. 20 There are things that you want and, by gosh, you’re going to get them—whether it’s a summer (OK, fall) bod or a promotion at work. There’s nothing that a combination of ambition, consideration, and talent can’t accomplish... So, go you! > Elizabeth Taylor: February 27, 1932

Virgo Aug. 24 to Sept. 22 With Jupiter visiting Virgo for the next 12 months, now’s the time for you to shine: look your best, and not just on social media; work hard, and play later. This is your year, Virgo. You’ve waited 12 years for life to be this good, since the last planet cycle in your favor. > Lauren Bacall: September 16, 1924

Aries Mar. 21 to Apr. 19 The season is filled with cocktail parties and family gatherings, which can be tricky to navigate without a plus-one. Looking for a boyfriend or girlfriend to warm your winter? Consider every day an opportunity to impress someone new. Happy hunting! > Doris Day: April 3, 1924

Libra Sept. 23 to Oct. 22 September will make you anxious. October will make you older, so Happy Birthday. In November, Christmas lights go up and, also, Thanksgiving. December, eggnog lattés (not pumpkin spice lattés). Everything comes out in the balance—we promise. > Matt Damon: October 8, 1970

Taurus Apr. 20 to May 20 Be careful this season as temptation will abound as the sun sets earlier and earlier each day. Quiet and sneaky strategy is your strong suit, but make sure your friends see you as a loving house cat and not a witch’s minion this Halloween. That would be spooky. > Audrey Hepburn: May 4, 1929.

Scorpio Oct. 23 to Nov. 21 “Lips that taste of tears, they say, Are the best for kissing,” wrote Dorothy Parker. And you, dear Scorpio, are aware of the power of emotion when it comes to seducing or, well, scaring. Control your actions this season, in spite of the behavior of those around you. > Vivien Leigh: November 5, 1913

Gemini May 21 to June 20

Sagittarius Nov. 22 to Dec. 21

Sometimes twinning isn’t the same as winning, Gemini. After a recent success, you’ve been feeling invincible. But you’re not a god, so come back down to earth from Mount Olympus. Your coworkers and friends are finding your hubris very, very tedious. > Judy Garland: June 10, 1922

Long walks in the orchard are the new long walks on the beach. Plan an afternoon of apple picking with a friend or two to be reminded of the simple things in life. Sometimes, they’re the sweetest—especially when they’re baked into a pie. Mmm... > Jane Fonda: December 21, 1937

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As the warm weather begins to dwindle, use it as an excuse to stay inside and refocus your creative energy. Make a push to develop your projects before the New Year arrives to mock you with false resolutions. You will separate public frivolities from private inner development. > Meryl Streep: June 22, 1949