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Exhilaration at first sight. Bentayga S.
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Exhilaration at first sight. Bentayga S.
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The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ in wings device are registered trademarks.
© 2022 Bentley Motors, Inc. Models shown: Bentayga S
Exhilaration at first sight. Bentayga S.
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A Braman Motorcars dealership
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The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ in wings device are registered trademarks.
The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ in wings device are registered trademarks.
The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ in wings device are registered trademarks.
© 2022 Bentley Motors, Inc. Models shown: Bentayga S
© 2022 Bentley Motors, Inc. Models shown: Bentayga S
© 2022 Bentley Motors, Inc. Models shown: Bentayga S
A Braman Motorcars dealership
The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ in wings device are registered trademarks.
The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ in wings device are registered trademarks.
Find your extraordinary at BramanBentleyPalmBeach.com or visit us at 2801 Okeechobee Boulevard, West Palm Beach or call 561-564-0715.
© 2022 Bentley Motors, Inc. Models shown: Bentayga S
© 2022 Bentley Motors, Inc. Models shown: Bentayga S
The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ in wings device are registered trademarks.
The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ in wings device are registered trademarks.
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A Braman Motorcars dealership
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Broker Participation is welcomed and encouraged. ORAL REPRESENTATIONS CANNOT BE RELIED UPON AS CORRECTLY STATING REPRESENTATIONS OF THE SELLER. FOR CORRECT REPRESENTATIONS, MAKE REFERENCE TO THE DOCUMENTS REQUIRED BY SECTION 718.503, FLORIDA STATUTES, TO BE FURNISHED BY A SELLER TO A BUYER OR LESSEE. This project is being developed by Flagler Residential LLC, a Delaware limited liability company, which was formed solely for such purpose. Two Roads Development LLC, a Florida limited liability company (“Two Roads”), is affiliated with this entity, but is not the developer of this project. This condominium is being developed by Flagler Residential LLC, a Delaware limited liability company (“Developer”), which has a limited right to use the trademarked names and logos of Two Roads pursuant to a license and marketing agreement with Two Roads. Any and all statements, disclosures, and/or representations shall be deemed made by Developer and not by Two Roads and you agree to look solely to Developer (and not to Two Roads and/or any of its affiliates) with respect to any and all matters relating to the marketing and/or development of the Condominium and with respect to the sales of units in the Condominium. Prices, availability, artist’s renderings, dimensions, specifications, and features are subject to change at any time without notice.
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FEATURES
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DAME DIANA RIGG British actress Diana Rigg was a 1960s icon and feminist role model who famously starred in The Avengers and Game of Thrones. The looks Diana Rigg wore in character as fictional spy Emma Peel on the 1960s hit show The Avengers came to define Swinging London, with radical styles that included slinky leather catsuits, miniskirts, low-rise trousers, and lots of exposed zippers.
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ST. BARTHS STYLE Assouline’s latest book, St. Barths Freedom, is a love letter to the French-speaking, Carribean, jewel of an island. With its 22 pristine beaches, sparkling Gustavia Harbor, world-class dining, and enticing nightlife, St. Barths is equal parts luxury and simplicity—a destination not to be missed.
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THE MASTERS OF COUTURE Currently on display at The Museum at FIT through November 6th is “Dior + Balenciaga: The Kings of Couture and their Legacies,” which dives into how these two men shaped the haute couture landscape forever and created what are two of the most powerful houses in fashion today.
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DIANA’S EVERLASTING STYLE The ’80s are back and no one better illustrated ’80s-era style than Diana, Princess of Wales. Diana was not afraid to break boundaries, and she did it well—creating trends that were praised and imitated by her champions worldwide.
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21 YEARS OF LIBERTINE & THE CREATIVE GENIUS BEHIND
IT Alexander Hankin interviews Johnson Hartig of Libertine, whose contributions Karl Lagerfeld noted as “important and influential”. One of the first to bring the skull theme back into the fold, Hartig credits Lacroix, Ungaro, and Lagerfeld as personal design heroes.
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THE MAYBOURNE BEVERLY HILLS The Maybourne Hotel Group has long been celebrated overseas for destinations includ ing Claridge’s, The Connaught, and The Berkeley. The group recently opened its doors in Beverly Hills with a luxury oasis at the epicenter of L.A. offering first class amenities.
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RUNWAY ROUNDUP Our favorite collections for fall presented at New York Fashion Week.
Diana Rigg as Emma Peel in The Avengers
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE Q 18/FALL 2022 CONTENTS FALL 2022
COVER
, 1968 (Bettmann/Getty Images)88
BLUE RIBBON VASE
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DEPARTMENTS
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NOSTALGIA Everyone from royalty to rockstars enjoying fall foliage from seasons past.
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JEWELRY Brightly colored necklaces, earrings, and rings are the perfect way to say “Hello!” to the cooler months.
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COATS Bundle up in shearling, cozy puffers, and classic camel this fall.
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SUNGLASSES Be chic in the shade with our latest assortment of sunglasses from Tom Ford, Fendi, Prada, and more.
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BOOTS Walk tall in this season’s boots—from chunky, to flat, to stiletto-heeled looks.
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ACCESSORIES Accessorize in style with our favorite add-ons for autumn.
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CLUTCHES AND HANDBAGS Colorful clutches and attractive top-handles to help you soar this season and far into the future.
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MEN’S APPAREL Walk with swagger like Mick Jagger and Keith Richards.
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Q FOCUS All of the best parties from New York City and The Hamptons to “Swinging” London.
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BEAUTY Products to make you look—and feel—your very best.
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EVENING LOOKS Something about a lady in red will always turn heads. Find your shade and step out bold and beautifully.
SHOPPING INDEX Where to buy all of the wonderful wares on the following pages.
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Q 20/ FALL 2022 CONTENTS FALL 2022
DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA
ELIZABETH MEIGHER
BROOKE MURRAY
TYKISCHA JACOBS
ROBERT BENDER
JULIE SKARRATT
JOANNA BAKER
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DANA KOCH
HOWARD LORBER ANDREW SAUNDERS WILLIAM LIE ZECKENDORF
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS ELIZABETH QUINN BROWN ELIZABETH KURPIS JAMES MACGUIRE TAKI THEODORACOPULOS ROBERT JANJIGIAN
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
HARRY BENSON BILLY FARRELL MARY HILLIARD PATRICK MCMULLAN ANNIE WATT CAPEHART PHOTOGRAPHY
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© QUEST MEDIA, LLC 2022. All rights reserved. Vol. 18, No. 3. Q–Quintessential Style is published quarterly, 4 times a year. Yearly subscription rate $32.00. Two-year rate $50.00. Q, 420 Madison Avenue, 8th floor, New York, NY 10017. 646.840.3404 fax 646.840.3408. For address changes, please call: 646.840.3404. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Q–Quintessential Style, 420 Madison Avenue, 8th floor, New York, NY 10017. SUBSCRIPTION INQUIRIES Call 646.840.3404, ext. 106 LINDA
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Diana Rigg was a 1960s style icon and feminist role model. She was best known as Emma Peel (born Emma Knight) on the hit television program, The Avengers ,which aired from 1961-1969. On the show, she is a daughter of the wealthy industrialist, Sir John Knight, and the crime-fighting partner of secret agent John Steed. The role was notable for a number of reasons: Peel is a strong heroine who is rarely defeated in fights - often rescuing Steed when he was in perilous trouble; she is a certified genius, specializing in applied chemistry and other physical sciences; she successfully helms her late father’s company...and she drives a convertible Lotus Elan at breathtaking high speeds! Additionally, she convincingly portrays a number of undercover roles including nurse, nanny and magazine reporter. Most pertinently, her fashion is top-notch.
The styles Diana Rigg wore as Emma Peel came to define Swinging London, combining mod with avante-garde. Her looks were groundbreaking, characterized by slinky leather catsuits, super-short skirts, flat boots, exposed zips… All fashioned by leading designers of the decade, John Bates and Pierre Cardin. Peel wore a miniskirt on the show before the style had risen to prominence. In fact, legend has it that Bates stopped leaving hems on his designs because members of the production team kept making them longer. “The designer and the other men were horrified,” Rigg told the TV Times “They pulled their hair, said, ‘You can’t do that, it’s impossible.’ I argued that one must look forward and not back, and by wearing these brief skirts, one was looking forward.”
As Q contributor Elizabeth Quinn Brown relays in her latest article for Fall Q, Dame Diana Rigg became known for far more than just her memorable 1960s roles. Ok, so she was the first (and only) Bond girl to ever marry 007 in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Now that’s a coup. But she also went on to become a revered stage actress (she won a Tony) and in her final years she played sharp-witted Olenna Tyrell in Game of Thrones. No GOT-watcher will ever forget Olenna’s beloved frank two-liners, à la “Get some rest, dear. You look appalling.”
Two other icons of fashion are covered in the latest Q by returning contributor, Alexander Hankin. Currently on display at The Museum at FIT is “Dior + Balenciaga: The Kings of Couture and their Legacies,” which dives into how these two men shaped the haute couture landscape forever and created what are two of the most powerful houses in fashion today.
Open through November 6, the exhibition focuses on the similarities and contrasts between Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga. Hankin also reports on modern day designer Johnson Hartig of Libertine, whose contributions Karl Lager feld once noted as “important and influential”. One of the first to bring the skull theme back into the fold, Hartig credits Christian Lacroix, Emmanuel Ungaro, and Lagerfeld as his personal design heroes.
Counterclockwise from top right: Diana Rigg wearing a black leather catsuit as Mrs. Peel in The Avengers; St. Barths Freedom (Assouline); Fred Leighton 18K yellow gold and gold-topped silver white topaz pendant; An orange Balenciaga dinner coat from 1954; Alevi Melodyamy’s Patent Ankle-Wrap Sandal; Princess Diana at a polo match in 1983; Lapima Ana Atlantic Ocean Sunglasses; Eugenia Suarez at Carolina Herrera’s Spring 2023 runway show; Asprey’s Pink Tourmaline Ring; A look from Carolina Herrera’s Spring 2023 Collection; J.McLaughlin’s Cindy bag; Verdura’s 18k gold Sunburst Cuff.
If you have an eye for overseas, travel to St. Barths along with Q’s senior editor, Brooke Kelly Murray, who explores Assouline’s latest tome, St. Barths Freedom. For those wishing to remain in the U.S., look no further than Beverly Hills’ The Maybourne. A true oasis in the epicenter of Los Angeles, the hotel offers first-class amenities.
For news down south, catch Robert Jangiggian’s article on Palm Beach’s Carriage House. The highly anticipated members-only lunch, dinner, and night spot will officially open in November.
delivers the latest and greatest from the runways, along with the best styles and accessories to help you transition from fall into winter—all neatly laid-out by our talented art director, Tykischa Jacobs.
As you step into fall, take a cue from late actress Diana Rigg: “The older you get, I have to say, the funnier you find life. That’s the only way to go.”u
ELIZABETH MEIGHER EDITOR
EDITOR’S LETTER QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE
Elizabeth Quinn Brown > Elizabeth Quinn Brown is a freelance writer and editor, covering culture, design, travel, and style. Her work has appeared in publications like Architectural Digest , Billboard , Grazia UK, GQ , and The Wall Street Journal . She resides in Los Angeles, California, with her family and her French Brittany, Gemma. The former features editor of Quest and Q returns this issue to muse on the British stage and screen actress who starred, famously, in The Avengers and Game of Thrones , Dame Diana Rigg.
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Brooke Kelly Murray > Brooke Murray is the Senior Editor of Quest and Q magazines. In this issue, she reviews the Spring/Summer 2023 runway shows in New York. Not to be missed are Brooke’s chic selection of sunglasses, shoes, handbags, clutches, and coats to help you step stylishly through fall; her coverage of the hottest parties—from New York to London; or her roundup of the best new beauty products. Outside of the office, Brooke can be found on the golf course or snuggling with her cat and dog.
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Tykischa Jacobs > Known fondly at the office as TJ, Tykischa is the Art Director and Production Manager for Quest and Q magazines. She uses her creativity to bring this delightful Fall Issue of Q to life, designing all of the editorial pages. This season, she particularly enjoyed composing the Evening Looks feature that showcases timeless pieces (such as a sparkling floral look from Carolina Herrera’s Resort 2023 Collection). Outside of the office, TJ can be found exploring nature and attending concerts at venues in the tri-state area.
< Robert Janjigian Robert Janjigian is a Palm Beach local and former Shiny Sheet Fashion Editor for the Palm Beach Daily News . He has covered almost every top designer out there, and recently wrote about Marissa Collections for the September issue of Quest . In this issue, he covers Carriage House, the highly anticipated members-only lunch, dinner, and night spot co-founded by Michael and Paula Bickford that will officially open in November. In his free time, Robert enjoys witty banter and spending time with his favorite cat, Sebastian.
< Alexander Mason Hankin Alexander Hankin of Bucks County, Pennsylvania is a third-generation real estate developer at Hankin Management Company, as well as an art world aficionado. Alexander’s passion for the arts has led him to take on leadership roles in major institutions, including the Museum of Arts and Design. Alexander has been a contributor for various publications, including Philadelphia Style Magazine and Gotham, and is now thrilled to be contributing for Quest. In this issue, he interviews Johnson Hartig of Libertine, and discusses a fashion exhibition at the Museum at FIT.
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QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE Q 26/ FALL 2022 CONTRIBUTORS
FALL 2022 / Q 29 QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE NOSTALGIA >FALL ACTIVITIES Vriginia Thoren Cheryl Tiegs dressed in a mink coat and leather boots while standing in front of an Alfa Romeo in 1969. S:10.125" T:10.875" B:11.125"
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE Q 30/ FALL 2022 NOSTALGIA 1 2 4 5 3 This page: 1. Rod Stewart and his girlfriend, model Dree Harrington, arriving at London airport in 1974. 2. A stylish couple outside of The Savoy Hotel in “Swinging London”, 1965. The model on the left wears a dress designed by John Bates. 3. Mia Farrow with two of her children in September of 1971. 4. Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh, with their three sons: Charles (2nd from R), Edward (L), and Andrew (R); daughter Princess Anne (with her son Peter), and the royal corgies, on Elizabeth and Philip’s 32nd wedding anniversary at Balmoral Castle, Scotland, November 20, 1979. 5. Marianne Faithfull, Glenda Jackson (center), and Avril Elgar (right), on the set of Anton Chekov’s play, The Three Sisters, 1967. > Opposite page: 1. Jackie Kennedy Onassis being photographed by Ron Galella, October 7, 1971. 2. A ‘60s photoshoot in a red phonebooth in London. 3. Karin Fernald, Jean Muir, Jane Birkin, Francesca Annis, and Pauline Collins while starring together in the musical Passion Flower Hotel, 1965. 4. Lauren Bacall twirling with her daughter, Leslie Bogart, at home in Beverly Hills, 1958. 5. Naomi Sims and an unidentified model dressed in Fall fashion, photographed by William Helburn, 1969. Getty Images; Mirrorpix/Alamy; Getty Images; AFP via Getty Images; AFP via Getty Images; PA
FALL 2022/ Q 31 1 5 4 3 2 Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images;
Alexiei
Hay; Getty
Images; Bob Willoughby; William Helburn
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE NOSTALGIA
Litchfield. Her acting career counted appearances in a series of 1970s films, as well as 1980s shows including “Fantasy Island”, “The Love Boat”, and “Knight Rider”. Above, Turkel is photographed by Gianni Penati for Vogue in 1971 wearing a wrapped Bulgari necklace featuring a 300-carat cabochon emerald set with diamonds and emeralds.
Q 32/ FALL 2022 Gianni Penati/Condé Nast JEWELRY 7 5 6 4 1. BONDEYE JEWELRY 14k yellow gold and lemon citrine ring, $2,000 at bondeyejewelry.com. 2. WALTERS FAITH 18k rose gold, rock crystal, and diamond earrings, $2,950 at waltersfaith.com. 3. NOUVEL HERITAGE 18k yellow gold, tsavorite, aquamarine, and diamond pendant, $7,700 at nouvelheritage.com. 4. ROLEX The “GMT-Master II” offers three time zones, is resistant to temperature fluctuations and magnetic fields, withstands 10 times more shocks, and masters 70 hours of non-stop mileage. Visit Wempe at 700 5th Avenue or call 212.397.9000. 5. FRED LEIGHTON Signed 18k yellow gold and gold-topped silver white topaz pendant, $1,650 at fredleighton.com. 6.KWIAT 18k yellow gold and diamond bracelet, $9,400 kwiat.com. 7. SEAMAN SCHEPPS Seville Drop Earrings in jade, pearl and 18k yellow gold. Visit the new flagship at 824 Madison Avenue, 212.753.9520. Patrick
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FALL 2022/ Q 33 in 14k gold, diamonds, and pink sapphires, $2,450 at eriness. Pink Mojave Bracelet in 18k pink gold and pink sapphires, $6,440 at madlords. Pink Tourmaline Pavé Butterfly Ring in 14k yellow gold, pink tourmalines, and diamonds, $3,000 at jacquieaiche.com. 5. ASPREY Daisy collection bracelet of amethysts and diamonds in 18k white gold, $24,000 at Tourmaline Bubble Gum Deco Ring in 18k yellow
Tsang Pink Panther Signet Ring in 18k gold, white diamonds, pink and white enamel, and an oval-shaped .12ct pink sapphire, $3,350 at thisisstateproperty.com. QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE 2
Sharp Dressed Lady
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1. ULLA JOHNSON Adira Belted Lamb Shearling Coat; $2,950 at ullajohnson. com. 2. BURBERRY The Mid-length Kensington Heritage Trench Coat in Honey; $2,490 at burberry.com. 3. MAX MARA Bundle up in the Manco Wool-Blend Teddy Cape; $1,620 at us.maxmara.com. 4. AKRIS PUNTO Featuring patchwork detailing, the Lamb Shearling Coat is reversible with front press button closure; $3,490 at neimanmarcus.com. 5. GOLDEN GOOSE Double-Breasted Handpainted Chevron Wool Trench Coat; $1,650 at bergdorfgoodman.com. 6. MONCLER Fulmarus Fur-Trim Hood Chevron Puffer Coat; $2,665 at moncler.com. Astrid Heeren was a top model of the 1960s. Also an actress, she ap peared in The Thomas Crown Affair (1968), Castle Keep (1969) and Silent Night, Bloody Night (1972). Above, Heeren is photographed in a camel coat and driving gloves against the night sky of Hamburg, Germany by F.C. Gundlach in 1965. Born Franz Christian Gundlach, F.C. Gundlach’s fashion photographs of the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s often integrated social phenomena and visual arts trends. They are now found in museums and collections across the globe and are considered icons of style.
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE COATS
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Q 34/ FALL 2022
F.C. Gundlach; Courtesy of respective brands
@shopcharlottekellogg@charlottekellogg Designed for the luxury resort lifestyle Inspired by world travel www.charlottekellogg.com CHARLOTTE KELLOGG Palm Beach | Naples | Newport Photo Credit: Tara Inc, Photography
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Made For Walking
Françoise Rubartelli haphazardly met her famed photographer boyfriend (who later became her husband), Franco Rubartelli, in a pub in England. Enrolled at Cambridge to study English, Franco was in the pub to meet a blind date—who had stood him up. At the time, Françoise was working as a waitress to earn pocket money while studying at the university. As Franco rose to leave, he collided with the Swiss beauty carrying a tray of beer and the rest was history. The two moved to Rome and married, and Françoise went on to be a renowned model of the ’60s. Above, Françoise is photographed by Irving Penn for Vogue, September 1, 1967.
1. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Women’s Punk Chelsea Boot in black; $1,290 at alexandermcqueen.com.
Cavashipla Ankle Boots; $1,245 at manoloblahnik.com.
With a three-inch heel, the Winnie Combat Bootie is water resistant and elevates any look; $450 at veronicabeard.com.
4. FAIRFAX & FAVOR The award-winning Explorer boots are individually handmade, waterproof, and offer interchangeable tassels; $630 at fairfaxandfavor.com.
5. SAINT LAURENT
6. ISABEL MARANT Denvee Suede Tall Western Boots; $990 at isabelmarant.com.
Ocus Calfskin Over-The-Knee Boots; available at ysl.com.
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE Q 36/ FALL 2022
Irving Penn/Condé Nast; Courtesy of respective brands
BOOTS
2. MANOLO BLAHNIK Black Suede Slouchy
3. VERONICA BEARD
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Shady Lady
Alamy; Courtesy of respective brands QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE SUNGLASSES 1 2 3 6
Nena von Schlebrügge In 1955, at the age of 14, Nena was discovered by Vogue photographer Norman Parkinson while he was on a tour in Stockholm, Sweden. When Nena moved to Lon don to pursue a career in high fashion modeling in 1957, she found immediate success and it wasn’t long before Eileen Ford of the Ford Modeling Agency invited her to come to New York City. Upon arriving in Manhattan at 17 years old, Nena’s career took off as she began modeling for Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar is also known as the mother of Uma Thurman.
1. VAINCOURT PARIS La Merveilleuse Large Pebbled Leather Belt with Covered Buckle; $495 at bergdorfgoodman.com.
SURREL Fox Fur PullThrough Scarf in blush; $250 at shopsurell.com.
JENNIFER BEHR Layla Satin Silk Headband in Oyster; $165 at neimanmarcus.com.
MAX MARA Nappa Leather Gloves in Camel; $315 at us.maxmara.com.
STUBBS & WOOTTON The flannel Blueberry Wildlife Slippers were inspired by the Adirondacks; $575 at stubbsandwootton.com.
ROLEX Where the sky meets the ocean and the sun comes up over the water, the air is momentarily
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE Q 38/ FALL 2022 ACCESSORIES
in Style 2
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3 5 Gleb Derujinsky
Suited For Savile Row
Steve McQueen Nicknamed the “King of Cool”, Steve Mc Queen was a top box-office draw throughout the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s. His rendition of Thomas Crown in the original 1968 version of the film remains one of the most influential moments in men’s style. Crown, a self-made Bostonian billionaire, is tired of being part of the Establishment, so he masterminds a bank heist with hopes of leaving it all behind. The premise is catchy, and Crown’s wardrobe is unmatched. After all, who wouldn’t want to watch McQueen’s ruggedly handsome character—dressed to the nines—driving fast cars, and playing polo?
1. GLENDALOUGH
Double Barrel Whiskey has been aged twice first in American oak Bourbon barrels and again in Spanish oak Oloroso Sherry barrels; $45 at totalwine.com.
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Elephant Print Silk Tie in Navy blue; $210 at ferragamo.com.
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE FALL 2022 / Q 39 ACCESSORIES
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BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Shearling-Lined Suede Gloves; $1,295 at bergdorfgoodma.com.
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BRIONI Reversible Leather Buckle Belt in black; $590 at neimanmarcus.com.
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HARRYS LONDON Edward G Loafers in dark brown suede; $495 at us.harrysoflondon.com. FENDI Fendiland gold-colored sunglasses; $460 at fendi.com.
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ZEGNA Men’s Bicolor Silk Scarf; $390 at zegna.com.
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Catchy Clutches
Gitta Schilling dressed in a crisp black and white cotton suit by Handmacher paired with an oversized cartwheel hat and Ingber clutch, photographed by Karen Radkai for Vogue, 1959. Brigitta (“Gitta”) Schilling was born in Berlin in 1936 into a world of war and poverty. Her family faced countless hardships, which she discusses in the 2010 documentary, Gitta Schilling- Timeless Beauty. Never theless, a difficult past did not stop Gitta from achieving supermodel stardom. Discovered while walking in a local parade at the age of 16, Gitta went on to appear on the covers of Vogue and Madame, and was often photographed by the likes of Irving Penn, F.C. Gundlach, Helmut Newton, and William Klein. Karl Lagerfeld counted her as one of his closest friends.
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE Q 40/ FALL 2022 CLUTCHES 1. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Skull Four Ring Clutch With Chain in Black; $2,990 at alexandermcqueen.com. at neimanmarcus.com. 3. JUDITH LEIBER Gemma Satin Clutch; $995 at judithleiber.com. 4. BOTTEGA VENETA 6. MANSUR GAVRIEL Mini Cloud Clutch in Leaf; $545 at mansurgavriel.com. 6. VICTORIA BECKHAM
1 2 4 6 Karen Radkai
Swinging Pretty
High Street Shoppers Two Young girls embrace the mod look while shopping in London in 1968. “Swinging London” was a term that arose in the 1960s to define the fashion and cultural scene flourishing in London at the time. Following a decade of post-war austerity, London’s youth was ready for a change. In 1965, Diana Vreeland, editor of Vogue magazine, exclaimed “London is the most swinging city in the world at the moment”. “Swinging” in the sense of fun and fashionable. Mini skirts and mod-related styles had swept the nation, becoming symbols of youth culture.
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE HANDBAGS
1. MARIA OLIVER Michelle Crocodile Top-Handle Bag; $1,745 at neimanmarcus.com.
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LORO PIANA Happy Day Sesia Micro Leather Handbag; $3,000 at bergdorfgoodman.com.
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J.MCLAUGHLIN Cindy Woven Leather Top Handle Handbag; $328 at jmclaughlin.com.
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CHLOE Judy Calfskin Tote Bag in Army Green; $1,250 at neimanmarcus.com.
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SAINT LAURENT Emmanuelle Small Shearling Bucket Bag; $2,790 at neimanmarcus.com.
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Dressed To Impress
Mick Jagger and Keith Richards of The Rolling Stones dressed to impress in 1967. Behind them (center) stands their accountant, Laurence Myers. Apparently, over 50 years ago, Jagger matter-offactly turned to Myers and said, “I’m not going to be singing rock & roll when I’m 50.” That was when the now legendary frontman was merely an ex-economics student who’d started a rock band. Jagger went on to defy his own proclamation—and then some. Jagger turned 79 this past July and in August the Rolling Stones concluded a 2022 tour titled “Sixty”, in celebration of 60 years together.
5 QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE MEN’S APPAREL 1. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN With wide peak lapels, a slit pocket on the chest and two flap pockets at the sides, the Men’s Wool Hopsack Double-breasted Co at in black features a boxy fit; $3,890 at alexandermcqueen.com. 2. LOUIS VUITTON This chic Sculpted Jacket is all about the tailoring, featuring oversized shoulders that contrast with a fitted waist and curved bottom hem to give a sculpted effect; $4,000 at us.louisvuitton.com. 3. HERM ÈS Dress in the Hooded Parka to keep warm on chilly days; $6,150 at hermes.com. 4. BALENCIAGA The stylish Cargo Jacket is crafted of cotton and features a spread collar and four flap pockets at the front; $2,550 at balen ciaga.com. 5. RALPH LAUREN Cashmere Turtleneck Sweater ($1,095), Cotton-Linen Suit Trouser ($595), Calfskin Boot ($995), Suede Belted Jacket ($4,995), and Silk Nec kerchief; more information at ralphlauren.com. 6. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Leather jacket ($7,395), blazer ($5,495), cashmere sweater ($4,450), oxford shirt ($795), dyed denim pants ($1,395), leather be lt ($995), suede full brogue boots ($1,350); visit the SoHo boutique at 136 Greene Street or call 212.334.1010.
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700 FIFTH AVENUE & 55TH STREET•NEW YORK • 212.397.9000 • wempe.com Hamburg Berlin Duesseldorf Frankfurt Munich London Madrid Paris Vienna Sensuality in perfect form. SENSUAL COCOON
Actress Diana Rigg in a promotional photo for 1969's On Her Majesty's Secret Service, starring George Lazenby as James Bond. Rigg's character in the film, Teresa “Tracy” Di Vicenzo, is the only Bond Girl ever to have married 007. > Opposite page: Rigg in character as Emma Peel on the set of the 1960s hit show, The Avengers.
The elegant and esteemed Diana Rigg—who starred, famously, in The Avengers and Game of Thrones—was an unmatched actress with fabulous “fringe” whose theatrical grounding was in London’s Stratford and West End.
Enid Diana Elizabeth Rigg was born on July 20, 1938, in Doncaster, England. Before she was one, she was relocated to Jodhpur, India—where her father, Louis Rigg, worked as a railway engineer for the Maharaja of Bikaner. In 1945, Diana (who spoke both English and Hindi) returned to England with her mother, Beryl Rigg, and her brother, Hugh Rigg. Diana shared with The Guardian, “[…] Yorkshire really formed my character. I get straight to the point and say what I feel. I can’t help it, it’s genetic. That’s my excuse anyway.”
In 1950, Diana began boarding at the Fulneck School in Pudsey, England. There, she discovered acting, playing roles like Orlando in As You Like It and Titania in A Midsummer Night’s Dream Diana’s Drama instructor, Sylvia Greenwood, once described her famous student as “determined” and “self-disciplined”— and “a very free spirit with a mind of her own.” (Diana returned Greenwood’s praise, saying, “She is unique and I owe her my life in the theater.”)
Dame
Diana Rigg
Diana unenrolled from Fulneck in 1955 and proceeded to the Royal Academy of Dramatic Art in London, England, where she debuted in Bertolt Brecht’s The Caucasian Chalk Circle. In 1959, she joined the Royal Shakespeare Company in Stratford, England, cast alongside greats like Tony Church, Judi Dench, Edith Evans, Ian Holm, Laurence Olivier, and Ian Richardson. She garnered praise playing Cordelia in King Lear.
She first splashed onto the screen in 1965, when she was cast opposite Patrick Macnee’s character, John Steed, in The Avengers the classic TV series about British espionage. During her reign as the secret agent Emma Peel, Diana became a feminist icon in black leather catsuits. (Behind the scenes, she became a feminist icon, too: She demanded a fair rate when she learned that she was being
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paid less than the cameraman.)
In her second season, she started wearing miniskirts when they were still considered a risky choice. It has been said that The Avengers’ fashion designer, John Bates—considered by some, including British Vogue’s Marit Allen, to be the creator of the miniskirt—started dressing Diana in hem-less miniskirts, so that production couldn’t go back and lengthen them. Diana remembered to TV Times, “In fact, one was creating fashion [that was] very avant garde, rather than remaining at the tail end of last year’s styles. And it turned out that I couldn’t have been more right.”
Between 1965 and 1968, she was emblematic of London’s Swinging ’60s, much like a female James Bond with the same charisma and sex appeal. In 1969, she actually became Mrs. Bond as 007’s wife, Tracy di Vicenzo, in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, which featured George Lazenby as James Bond. George once shared, “We were having lunch just before the love scene, and there were a lot of press around because they were invited that day. Diana Rigg was having lunch about four or five tables away and she yelled quite loudly, ‘I’m having garlic today George, I hope you are.’ You know, it was just a joke. They took it down as if she ate garlic so she could put me off, but I don’t quite remember smelling garlic on her, and it was quite a lot of fun with her and she’s another bright lady.”
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Clockwise from top left: Diana Rigg marrying George Lazenby's Bond in On Her Majesty's Secret Service; Rigg in a scene from The Avengers as Emma Peel, the internationally educated daughter of a wealthy shipown er and youthful widow of a famous test pilot; A poster for On Her Maj esty's Secret Service; the actress as Cordelia in King Lear, 1962; film stunt performer Ray Austin, Diana Rigg, and Chee Soo together for an episode of The Avengers, 1967; Diana Rigg and Helen Mirren together in a scene from A Midsummer Night's Dream, 1968. < Opposite page, from above: Rigg as Emma Peel in stills from The Avengers; Rigg strikes a pose in a promotional shot for The Avengers.
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Angus McBean; flashbak.com; David Farrell
This spread, clockwise from left: Diana Rigg wearing Pierre Cardin in a scene from The Avengers; the actress featured on the cover of Women's Mirror, October 30th, 1965; Charlotte Rampling and Diana Rigg star in an episode of The Avengers, 1967; Rigg in character as Emma Peel wearing a look by designer Pierre Cardin; Diana Rigg and George Lazenby as the happily married (though not for long) Bonds in On Her Majesty's Service; Patrick Macnee and Diana Rigg in a scene from The Avengers, 1965
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In her slinky leather catsuits and super-short mini skirts, The Avengers’ Emma Peel brought a fetish istic element to fashion. Peel wore a miniskirt on the show before it had attained ubiquity, and legend has it that designer John Bates stopped leaving hems on them because members of the production team kept trying to lengthen them. Diana remem bered to TV Times, “In fact, one was creating fash ion that was very avant garde, rather than remaining at the tail end of last year’s styles. And it turned out that I couldn’t have been more right.”
Alamy; David Gittings; The Hollywood Archive/Alamy
In 1973, Diana was married to Menachem Gueffen, the Israeli painter. She intimated to People, “We fight all the time, but it’s a marvelous, marvelous relationship. I give the marriage a year.” The marriage lasted three years, ending in 1976.
Diana published No Turn Unstoned: The Worst Ever Theatrical Reviews in 1982, infusing humor into the upsetting feedback that she and others had received. (In 2014, she would give a solo show in Edinburgh, Scotland, based on the stories in this beloved book.) She was, perhaps, inspired by one of the reviews that she received for her 1971 performance in Abelard and Heloise. She remembered to The Guardian, “When I appeared nude in a play on Broadway in the early ‘70s, a nasty little critic said I was built like a brick mausoleum with insufficient flying buttresses. He should have seen me after the menopause, there was no shortfall then! It was devastating at the time.”
In 1977, she and Archie Stirling, the theater producer, welcomed daughter Rachael Stirling—who, like Diana, became an actress. Diana would wed Archie in 1982, but the couple divorced in 1990 (following an affair). Later, Diana told the Daily Mail, “If you have a good inner life you don’t get lonely.
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Clockwise from top left: Diana Rigg circa 1970; Rigg and Archie Sterling on their wedding day at New York City Hall, 1982; Former The Avengers and fellow James Bond stars Honor Blackman and Diana Rigg at a party in 1974; the actress with her ten-year-old daughter, Rachel, who holds her mother's insignia outside of Bucking ham Palace on the day Rigg was appointed CBE (Commander of the British Empire) by the Queen in 1988; Rigg and her cast members while starring in a production of Julius Ceasar < Opposite page, from above: Diana Rigg is the center of attention at a publicity shoot ahead of the filming of 1969's The Assasination Bureau; director Peter Hall discusses an upcoming production of Twelfth Night with David Warner and Diana Rigg, 1966.
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I’ve got a good imagination. I don’t miss romance. I’m so grateful not to have to go there anymore. Does that sound awful?’
In 1988, she was recognized by Queen Elizabeth II with a CBE. And, in 1994, she was made a dame (or, DBE)—the same year that she won a Tony Award (Best Performance by an Actress in a Leading Role in a Play) for Medea, one of her most memorable performances.
Her career and influence as a classical actress blossomed in the second half of her life. In the 2000s, Diana was featured as Olenna Tyrell in 18 episodes of HBO’s Game of Thrones, earning Emmy nominations in 2013–2015. She once remarked, “There are some actors who don’t like to play bad. They like to be liked. I love to be disliked. Olenna had the best lines. They were very kind with their scripts.” She added, to The Guardian, “It wasn’t my decision to have Lady Olenna killed off in Game of Thrones. I’d love to have stayed on. Thank God I didn’t die on a toilet like Charles Dance’s character.”
In 2021, She enjoyed a posthumous performance in Last Night in Soho, which
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Counterclockwise from top left: Diana Rigg and Laurence Olivier in a TV adaption King Lear, 1983; Rigg in her award-winning role as Olenna Tyrell on Game of Thrones; the actress and Miss Piggy in a scene from Jim Henderson's The Great Muppet Caper, 1981; Rigg and Rachael Stirling in "The Crimson Horror" episode of the Doctor Who series, alongside Jenna-Louise Coleman (left) as Clara and Matt Smith as The Doctor, 2013; Rigg in character as Olenna Tyrell, pictured with Margaery, played by Natalie Dormer, on Game of Thrones. < Opposite page, from above: Rigg playing Lady Macbeth alongside Anthony Hopkins at The National Theatre in 1972; the actress playing the title role in Medea, for which she won a Tony Award in 1994; Margaery (Natalie Dormer) and her grandmother, Olenna Tyrell (Diana Rigg) in a scene from Game of Thrones.
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starred Anya Taylor-Joy. She recorded some of her last lines from home, while drinking a Campari. Indeed, She and her daughter, Rachael Stirling, had Camparis at 4 p.m. each day until she died on September 10, 2020, in London, England. She was memorialized by Rachael with a plaque at St. Paul’s Church in London’s Covent Garden, reading:
Dame Diana Rigg
First Appearance 1938 Called to Rehearsal 2020 Well and Truly Beloved
Of the hundreds of remembrances that Diana’s peers made when she died, it was, perhaps, Mark Gatiss, who captured her magic. (Gatiss starred with Diana in All About My Mother at the Old Vic in 2007.) He shared with The Guardian , “What first met you was the presence. Diana sailed into a room like a galleon, draped in a stylish shawl, the blond bob framing those famous cheekbones. We were performing together at the Old Vic in Samuel Adamson’s version of All About My Mother , she as the actor Huma Rojo and I as her dresser, Agrado. It was a glorious, naughty time. She would eat a pork pie before every show and sit on the stairs, smoking furiously.”
Diana’s death can be likened to how the actress once described Olenna’s end: “She does it with dignity and wit, and wit is not often in final death scenes.” There’s much to continue to celebrate about Rigg—including, the cleverness she carried and delivered, both on and off the stage and screen. ◆
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Above, clockwise from top left: Diana Rigg with her daughter, Rachael Stirling, at Buckingham Palace where Rigg was made a Dame Commander of the British Empire in 1994; a close-up of the actress from the late 1950s; Rigg in a promo for On Her Majesty's Secret Service 1969; a portrait of the actress taken in the 1990s; Rigg and her daughter photographed at the National Theatre in London, 2005. < Opposite page, from above: Rigg as Judith Bliss in Hay Fever, along with Laura Rogers and Sam Alexander, at England's Chichester Festival Theater, 2009; Rigg, Emilia Fox, and Charles Dance star in Rebecca Diana Rigg in a scene from Evil Under the Sun, 1982.
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St. Barths Style
by b rooke M urray
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From above: Snapshot from Kelly Bensimon’s trip to St. Barths; the cover of Assouline’s St. Barths Freedom . < Opposite page: Mokes carry visitors around the island of St. Barths.
“When I really
St. Barths. I’ll take my guitar, and I’ll look at the sea,” mused late singer Johnny Hallyday. The French-speaking Caribbean island of St. Barths has become the go-to escape for the world’s elite as a result of its unique qualities and renowned beauty. Not only does the island
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boast a picturesque landscape with clear waters, white-sand beaches, and mountainous terrain, but it’s also a culinary treasure-trove with world-class shops lining the streets, giving it an exotic yet European vibe. Adding to the feeling of seclusion and exclusivity, most arrive via private jet or a rickety propeller plane from a nearby island due to the lack of non-stop flights. Travelers will experience an adrenaline pumping nosedive landing onto a narrow runway, followed by a more pleasant greeting from a hotel conceirge or private driver, awaiting with transportation to the sanctuary of their choice. The tiny jewel of an island is the topic of Assouline’s latest book, St. Barths Freedom, writ ten by British journalist Vassi Chamberlain, whose love affair with St. Barths began 22 years ago following a visit to a friend who owned a house there. Her friend described St. Barths as geographically para disial, filled with stylish and rigorously exacting restaurants, but where an inclusive and renegade spirit suffused every corner. An invitation impossible to turn down.
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE
From above: Eden Rock offers Mokes in every color of the rainbow; St. Barth travel Alecse. < Opposite page: St. Barths Bucket Regatta, 2016; cooling off in the translucent waters of St. Barths.
Courtesy of Charlotte Darnaud; MyRetroposter; Michaelgramm; Pierre Carreau
Since her initial visit, Chamberlain has returned almost every year and the book—filled with captivating images—serves as a re minder of the island’s gems along with her personal memories. She also touches on the history of St. Barths, including Christopher Co lumbus’s landing in 1493, the onset of French occupation in 1648, the Swedish acquisition, and ultimately the arrival of Franco-Dutch aviator Rémy de Haenen in 1946, who has been officially credited with imbuing the island with style and modernity. During his time on St. Barths, de Haenen served as consul general and mayor. See ing the need for tourism, de Haenen spearheaded the development of the airstrip and opened the island’s first hotel, Eden Roc, which remains a top social hub since its launch 60 years ago. New ad vancements began to attract elites such as David Rockefeller in the late ’50s, and eventually made it the celeb hotspot it is today. In the book Chamberlain recalls one of her earliest visits, during which she was swept into a party to find herself among a star-studded group including Puff Daddy, Mary J. Blige, and the Red Hot Chili Peppers’ Anthony Kiedis, to name a few.
Whether enjoying one of 22 pristine beaches, perusing Gus tavia’s sparkling Harbor with its many sail boats and super yachts, or dining at any of the world-class restaurants—including break fast at Fouquet’s, Shellona on Shell Beach for lunch, and La Petite Plage for dinner and a fun night out—St. Barths is equal parts lux ury and simplicity, making it a dreamlike destination filled with all of life’s pleasures.
Clockwise from top left: A refreshing dip in one of the natural pools in St. Barths; campaign for Wild Side of St. Barths shot on the sailboat Ocean Pure; signs indicating the main attractions of St. Barths. > Opposite page, clockwise from above: Karen Joigny wearing Charo Ruiz Ibiza in a photo taken by Emily Lab at Toiny Beach; the St. Barths airport features one of the shortest commercial runways in the world, at just over 2,100 feet; a sailing holiday in St. Barths, circa 1973.
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Marie Touchelet; Laura Payet; Antoine Verglas; Emily Lab; Slim Aarons/Stringer/Getty Images Romain Réglade.
› Opposite page, clockwise from top left: A model wearing a Balenciaga orange coat in Paris, 1954; Christian Dior in his studio with one of his models; Dior’s brown silk taffeta cocktail dress, 1955 (left), and Balenciaga’s blue silk taffeta evening dress, 1954 (right), on display at the Museum at FIT.
Cristóbal Balenciaga at work in Paris, 1968.
Henri
Cartier-Bresson/Magnum Photos QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE
The Masters of Couture
by A lex A nder H A nkin
“Balenciaga!” was the final word of Myrtle Snow as she was burned at the stake, in what was one of American Horror Story’s most iconic moments to date. This campy pop culture scene, aired decades after Balenciaga’s death, speaks volumes about the cultural legacy and impact of his designs. Currently on display at The Museum at FIT is “Dior + Balenciaga: The Kings of Couture and their Legacies,” which dives into how these two men shaped the haute couture landscape forever and created what are two of the most powerful houses in fashion today.
The exhibition focuses on the similarities and contrasts of Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga. One of the most striking similarities among the two is that both founded their Parisian fashion houses at the age of 42. However, it should be noted that Balenciaga had been known for years prior to his debut as a member of Paris’s couture elite, having established his house originally in San Sebastian, Spain in 1917 before subsequently moving it to Paris during the Spanish civil war. Dior
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was, in many ways, the first example of the modern creative director that so many fashion houses have adopted today. Less technically hands-on in the creation of the garments themselves, his expertise was sketching, working with the seamstresses, and serving as the lead behind the business operations. Conversely, Balenciaga was a true couture dressmaker, involved in every aspect of the production of his garments and referred to by Dior as “the master of us all.”
Together, both men redefined the way women dressed post World War II. “Dior strove to banish the deprivation of the war years; he modernized the corseted shape of the Belle Époque,” says Patricia Mears, deputy director and curator of MFIT and curator of the exhibition. Throughout the exhibition, gowns are displayed side by side and much of the early work is hard to distinguish between the two creators. But it is the subtle shapes and stitches of the design that give viewers clues as to which belongs to Balenciaga and Dior.
One of Balenciaga’s most famous customers was the eccentric Kentucky-born Countess Mona Von Bismarck. Voted best dressed woman in the world in 1933 by Chanel, Balenciaga, and other top designers of the time, her love of Balenciaga knew no bounds. After her train derailed carrying much of her wardrobe, she famously bought over 150 Balenciaga dresses to replenish her collection. But it is her reaction to Balenciaga’s decision to close the house in 1968 that is perhaps the greatest testament to his genius.
Countess Von Bismarck locked herself away to grieve in her Capri villa for three days. It’s these anecdotes that make fashion so fascinating. That designers can move their patrons so.
Dior has had its own share of notable fashion devotees, including the Queen Mother and
Balenciaga’s off-white silk faille eve ning dress, 1961 (left), and Dior’s pale beige ribbed silk evening dress, 1957 (right), on display at the Museum at FIT. › Opposite page, clockwise from above: Dior created the haute cou ture gown that Princess Margaret wore for her 21st birthday; Diana Vreeland holding a one seam coat by Balenciaga in New York, 1973; Dior dressing model Dorothy Emms, 1952; Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn wearing a coat by Balenciaga in Paris, 1950.
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Princess Margaret, who chose a Dior cream 21st birthday dress, one of the most elegant pieces in fashion history. And like Balenciaga, Dior’s passing left the fashion world grief-stricken, with his funeral attended by over 2,500 friends, colleagues, and patrons.
Since closing the house of Balenciaga, new life was given to Nicolas Ghesquière when he took the helm from 1997 to 2012. The designs of Ghesquière during his tenure at Balenciaga are considered a second golden age for the brand and are still highly coveted, fetching jaw-dropping prices for his now vintage looks. Demna Gvesalia has put his own stamp on the brand since 2015, originally leaning into the more streetwear couture vibe for which he has become so well known. More recently, he has brought a new level of sophistication to his couture shows, with his last presentation featuring Naomi Campbell, Nicole Kidman, and Kim Kardashian gracing the runway in Gvesalia’s Balenciaga.
Since the untimely passing of Christian Dior in 1957, there have been several designers who have shaped the brand. Yves Saint Laurent, who worked closely under Dior, became the heir to the house upon his death. The brand was then carried on for many years by Marc Bohan. John Galliano brought a new level of fame and recognition to the brand during his tenure from 1996 to 2011. Galliano’s couture shows were nothing short of glamorous showstoppers, with most dresses being instantly museum worthy. Today, the brand’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri designs clothes for the modern woman that are functional, feminine, and fanciful. Perhaps what brings the entire story full circle is that Chiuri just received the 2022 Couture Council Award last month from the Couture Council of the Museum at FIT. Visit “Dior + Balenciaga” at FIT and perhaps you too will exclaim, “Balenciaga!” u
Richard Avedon; Courtesy of Museum at FIT; Laziz Hamani
Clockwise from above: Dior’s Fall 2022 couture show; Maria Grazia Chiuri, current creative director of Dior; Dior’s olive wool boucle coat, 1952 (left) and Balenciaga’s purple mohair Coat, 1957 (right) on display at the Museum at FIT; Bella Hadid in a 2022 Balenciaga couture look. ‹ Opposite page, clockwise from top left: A model wearing Dior’s La Cigale coat for Harper’s Bazaar , 1952; a Dior ensemble consisting of a coat in green brocade with mink collar and cuffs and a dress in blue satin embroidered with peacock feather motif, haute couture, 2004; Balenciaga’s silk organza with ostrich feathers, 1967 (left), on display at the Museum at FIT.
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Courtesy of Christian Dior; Maripol; Balenciaga
Diana’s Everlasting Style
by E lizab E th M E igh E r
The ’80s are back and no one better illustrated ’80s-era style than Diana, Princess of Wales. Diana was not afraid to break style boundaries, and she did it well—creating trends that were praised and imitated by her champions worldwide (no one will ever forget the time she wore a choker given to her by Queen Elizabeth II as a headdress in Melbourne in 1985). When American prep sailed in on the wave of The Official Preppy Handbook, polo shirts and penny loafers had become the building blocks of countless women’s wardrobes—along with oversized blazers, tapered jeans that could be tucked into cowboy boots, puffed-sleeves, power suits by day, and sparkling sequins by night.
Diana’s rise to prominence during the 1980s included embracing some of the decade’s key trends. On the heels of The Official Preppy Handbook, released in 1980, England produced a handbook of its own in 1982, focusing on the UK’s stereotypical upper-middle class “Sloane Ranger”. Transpose Newport or Martha’s Vineyard for the Cotswolds or somewhere in Surrey, and the prototypical British “Sloane” was very much a manifestation of the American prepster—so hinted Ann Barr and Peter York in the title of their renowned book, The Official Sloane Ranger Handbook. Barr, then features editor of Harper’s and Queen, and York, an aspiring writer and astute observer of social groups and behaviors, were focused on the lifestyles of upper-middle class Londoners who populated Chelsea (hence the moniker, after Chelsea’s Sloane Square). Female Sloanes, often involved in equestrian activities, were frequently spotted in 1970s London wearing silk scarves wrapped around the back of their heads and distinctively tied between the tip of their chins and bottom lips—masking the lower part of their faces— warranting the “Lone Ranger” reference.
Lady Diana Spencer embodied a Sloane Ranger to a T, with her Barbour jackets, printed Fair Isle sweaters, Peter Pan collars, and pearls paired effortlessly with wellies—stylish without being radical, clever perhaps but not overly intellectual, pretty but not strikingly beautiful, and modern enough to appreciate bands like Duran Duran (and perhaps even dance along to the beat)... And if a Sloane’s romantic notion of fulfilling manifest destiny should culminate in marrying “within the club”, then Diana’s saying “I do” to a prince won that race by a landslide.
As ’80s fashion returns, here’s a look back at some of Diana’s greatest moments, many of which are still available to this day. ◆
REX Features
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2 3 Gold Love Knot Earrings in 18k yellow gold, $2,800 at marissacollections.com 2. RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION Merino Wool Crewneck Sweater, $690 at ralphlauren.com 3. VERSACE Medusa Acetate Butterfly Sunglasses in transparent pink, $300 at neimanmarcus.com 4. VINCE Draped Puff-Sleeve Blouse, $295 at neimanmarcus.com 5. DIANA, PRINCESS OF WALES wearing a puff-sleeved blouse cinched at the waist with oversized sunglasses at a polo match in Windsor, 1983 6. DIANA, PRINCESS OF WALES wearing a red sweater daped casually over her shoulders, transparent pink sunglasses, gold earrings, and a white puff sleeve blouse at polo in 1983. 5 QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE Getty Images
Kent Gavin/Mirrorpix/Getty Images 1. DIANA, PRINCESS OF WALES wearing a pink Ralph Lauren button down shirt with rolled up sleeves, black patent leather loafers, and high-waisted, tapered black jeans during a three-day visit to Bosnia and Herzegovina, 1997 2. POLO RALPH LAUREN Knit Cotton Oxford Shirt in Pink, $98.50 at ralphlauren.com 3. TOD’S Gommino Black Patent Leather Driving Shoes, $595 at tods.com 4. RE/DONE Stove Pipe Jeans, $265 at fivestoryny.com 5. CARTIER Tank Louis Cartier watch, large model, in 18k gold with black alligator-skin strap, $10,700 at wempe.com or dial 212.397.900 for more information. Launched over 100 years ago, the Tank Louis remains an iconic staple to this day. 1 2 3 4 5 QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE
1. DIANA, PRINCESS OF WALES Polo Club in Windsor, 1983 2. RAY BAN ‘80s style number RB4162 in Light Havana, $89 at ray-ban.com 3. DIANA, PRINCESS OF WALES wearing a sparkling, floor-length peach dress paired with a silver clutch to a charity performace of Andrew Lloyd Webber’s Starlight Express at the Apollo Victoria theatre in London, 1984 4. ANYA HINDMARCH Neeson Tassel Clutch in Silver, $650 at marissacollections.com 5. TEMPERLEY LONDON Celestial Irridescent Lilac Sequin Gown, $2,585 at fivestoryny.com. 1 2 3 4 5 FALL 2022/ Q 71
DIANA, PRINCESS OF WALES
a sweatshirt
the British Lung Foundation logo on the front), vintage washed Levi’s tucked into cowboy boots, an oversized menswear blazer,
baseball cap while a young Prince William leads the way wearing a classic waxed Barbour jacket,
and velcro
Polo Club,
POLO RALPH LAUREN Selene Leather Cowboy Boot in chocolate brown,
DIANA, PRINCESS OF WALES arriving at Sarajevo airport ahead of at two-day visit, wearing a crisp blue
RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION Camden Wool Crepe Jacket in navy, $1,990 at ralphlauren.com.
blazer,
2 3 4 1.
sporting
(with
and a
jeans,
sneakers at Guards
1983 2.
$1,500 at ralphlauren.com 3.
shirt and navy
1997 4.
Tim Graham Photo Library via Getty Images
FALL 2022/ Q 73 Jayne Fincher/Princess Diana Archive/Getty Images; Kypros/Getty Images wearing a Miss Antionette suit and John Boyd hat during a vitit to Sovereign Hill in Ballarat, Victoria, Australia, 1983 Kamila Reversible Jacket, $274 at veronicabeard.com 3. DIANA, PRINCESS OF WALES waves goodbye as she departs for her honeymoon with new husband, Prince Charles. The 20-year-old newlywed added an oversized ivory jacket and one of her iconic chokers to her long-sleeved, floral dress 4. LAPOINTE elongated double-breasted coat in cream, $2,150 at marissacollections.com 5. LUISA BECCARIA Floral 3/4 Sleeve Silk Chiffon Maxi Dress, $3,450 at fivestoryny.com. 1 2 3 4 5 QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE
21 Years of Libertine
& The Creative Genius Behind It
by A lex A nder H A nkin Q 74/ FALL 2022
While not a household name, Johnson Hartig, designer of the fashion line Libertine, has created a brand revered by his loyal fans for its chic yet witty design. Hartig started a career in advertising before leaving to experiment with fashion design alongside friend and Fischerspooner band member Cindy Greene, ultimately launching Libertine in 2001. The brand became an overnight sensation and now, 21 years later, Hartig has achieved international success dressing celebrities in Hollywood, from Cher to Brad Pitt. I recently caught up with Hartig to discuss his experience in the fashion industry.
Alexander Hankin: How did you get into fashion?
Johnson Hartig : I always loved fashion growing up in the ’80s. My grandmother taught me how to sew a straight stitch using my mother’s sewing machine and then I started creating pieces for fun—just by cutting and winging it. It was in my DNA. Fast forward to the ’90s, I was acting in commercials in Los Angeles for work but in my free time I would routinely take apparel apart and then put pieces back together, incorporating old ribbons and patches—little bits and dabs. One day a buyer of Maxfield saw something that I was wearing and asked me to make some for the store, so I started with small batches. They sold out within 30
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Looks from Libertine’s Fall 2022 Collection. Opposite page: Creative Director and Founder Johnson Hartig surrounded by Libertine models.
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minutes, so I had to quit my job and focus primarily on Libertine, ultimately leading me to sell clothes all around the world.
AH: I know you have our own atelier. Are your clothes couture?
JH: I don’t consider my clothes couture since we’re not making clothing specifically to fit client bodies, but they are each uniquely handmade. All of my creations grow out of unending creativity. It’s clothing that is individualistic and expressive with a real heart and soul.
AH: What are some of your favorite places to draw inspiration for your pieces?
JH: I’m insatiable and before the Internet I would look at galleries and museums. I would also get inspired while traveling. My family traveled a lot when I was a teenager, so I had been to many places by the time I was 16 and I think that instilled something in me—a curiosity for everything around me and the way things work. My mind can’t settle until I figure something out, whether it’s a puzzle or a solution to a problem. I’m all about curiosity.
AH: Are there any collections that stand out?
JH: We only started presenting official collections in 2010 or 2011. The newest collection is always the most exciting to me. I’m incredibly fortunate because I’ve never had a lapse in creativity—it just always comes when I need it to, and I often really surprise myself.
AH: What can we look forward to?
JH: We recently discovered new ways to apply interesting hand details. About 90% of our clients are females, and this season there’s a women’s jacket that’s covered with hand beading and feathers. It’s the closest to couture that we’ve done so far.
AH: You’ve worked with so many big celebrities. Can you recall an interaction that was particularly memorable?
JH: Karl Lagerfeld used to come to our SoHo studio and buy every single piece. There was one time that he didn’t show up, so I decided to just pick out a bunch of looks for him and took them to The Mercer. I walked in carrying my little dog under one arm and two big bags of clothing for Karl in the other, and he told me to come up to the room so he could try them on. Karl noticed that I was looking at the beautiful bathtub in the room. He told me he was going to dinner and that I should take a bath while he was gone. An offer I couldn’t refuse!
AH: Your career is iconic, and I love how hands-on you are. Can you talk about your approach to design?
JH: I am hands-on, thank you! I just can’t keep my hands off and I think that resonates. My devoted clients have seen that and appreciate it. That’s probably one of the reasons we’ve been a success for 21 years. Even though we are a small company, the amount of business we do is incredible! It makes it worth the time, energy, and love that we put into making these clothes.
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AH: That’s amazing. I still have some original skull pieces that I bought from you when I was in high school!
JH: The skulls—we were really the first to bring them back after decades. I’m really proud of that. There’s so much that we’ve done that has revolutionized the fashion industry. For a small brand, the influence we’ve had on much larger houses has been substantial.
AH: I read that Christian Lacroix is your design hero—is this true?
JH: Absolutely! Christian Lacroix and Emanuel Ungaro were my design heroes along with Lagerfeld. When I’m feeling
sad, I’ll visit YouTube and watch Lacroix shows from the ’80s and ’90s. They make me feel the same way as I do when I listen to Mozart. Now, Christian Lacroix and I are Instagram friends and DM each other so it’s come full circle. I’m so happy to have him recognize my work.
AH: This has been so amazing- thank you! To wrap things up, is there any advice you would give a young designer reading this?
JH : I think you should avoid the Internet as much as you can, have innate curiosity, and look, learn, watch, emulate, and think critically.
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Looks from Libertine’s Fall 2022 Collection.
Courtesy
of The Maybourne Beverly Hills
The Maybourne Bar. < Opposite page, clockwise from above: A rear view of the hotel and Beverly Cañon Gardens; The Cigar and Whiskey Bar; the rooftop pool.
Maybourne Hotel Group’s
First U.S. Outpost in Beverly Hills
by b rooke M urray
The Maybourne Hotel Group has long been celebrated by high society in London as an iconic luxury brand due to its three legendary hotels—Claridge’s, The Berkeley, and The Connaught—with origins that go back over 200 years. More recently, the group has expanded its footprint outside of the UK with the opening of The Maybourne Riviera on the Côte d’Azur, France, as well as The Maybourne Beverly Hills, its first North American property, which it acquired in 2019. On a recent visit to Los Angeles, I experienced first-hand what has made the hotel an instant success and a celebrity magnet.
The Maybourne Beverly Hills mixes the brand’s impeccable white glove service and luxury ac commodations with the quintessential Southern California coastal ambiance. Located at the site of the former Montage Hotel in the heart of the neighborhood, the hotel is ideally situated a couple of blocks from high-end shopping on Rodeo Drive, and a stone’s throw from top restaurants like Spa go, with a complimentary Rolls-Royce awaiting as transportation. Contemporary luxury coalesces
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with laidback yet cheery vibes in the lobby of the nine-story hotel, where you’re immediately immersed in the design sensibility. As is the case with every Maybourne hotel, art plays a prominent role. Neutral palettes with pops of color are seen throughout the ever evolving art collection—featuring works from both international and Californian artists, including “Vandal Gummy” by WhIsBe, a giant statute of a blue bear holding a Department of Corrections sign.
The hotel is also home to a growing collection of top culinary experiences. Off the lobby, you will find the new Maybourne Bar, which was designed by world renowned interior designer André Fu and features a spectacular bar carved from solid Turkish silver onyx. The narrow space is an intimate setting to sip a cocktail, rem iniscent of the Painter’s Bar at Claridge’s. Equally impressive are the drinks served by Head Mixoloigst Chris Amirault, who offers his own spin on the classics, such as the Maybourne Vodka Martini with chocolate bitters. At the other end of the lobby, there is a super casual European-style café for grab-and-go pastries, light meals, and drinks, as well as, more notably, the hotel’s al fresco Terrace restau rant, arguably one of the best in the city. The charming Terrace restaurant overlooks the Beverly Cañon Gardens and offers all-day dining. Ideal for dinner or weekend brunch, the menu features out standing pastas like the Fresh Clam Linguine and Homemade Corn Agnolloti, as well as delectable meats and fishes, from Lamb Chops Over Charcoal to a Grilled Whole Branzino. Venture up to the third
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From above: The California Suite; a Terrace Suite.
<
Opposite page: The spa’s serene immersion pool with soaring mosaics and a sky-lit ceiling reminiscent of ancient times.
Courtesy of The Maybourne Beverly Hills
floor after dinner and you will find an exclusive reservations-only Cigar and Whiskey Bar, with a humidor that houses more than 1,000 cigars from the Caribbean and Central America and a lengthy whiskey list to complement the smoke. The cozy lounge, with wood paneled interiors and an outdoor balcony, is a hidden gem within the hotel, requiring the front desk to escort guests up. Adding to its exclusivity, it’s just one of three places in Beverly Hills where smoking is permitted.
When not enjoying the bars and restaurants, guests can lounge at the cabana-lined rooftop pool and take in sweeping views of Hollywood Hills and the iconic sign, or book from the menu of spa treatments, which includes massages and facials. Even without an appointment, the spa ex udes tranquility, with large locker rooms featuring saunas and relaxation rooms, plus a breathtaking serene mineral pool surrounded by soaring mosaics. Just around the corner from the spa is a fitness center with state-of-the-art equipment, including Peloton bikes, Woodway tread mills, and dumbbells by Pent.
Not to be outdone by the amenities, the guest rooms are airy and spa cious, and feature marble bathrooms, 600-thread linens, and upscale ap pliances, providing upmost comfort tailored to the contemporary guest.
“Maybourne Hotel Group is widely recognized for its legendary service standards and creative energy. The Maybourne Beverly Hills thoughtfully embraces that legacy of innovation while celebrating a meeting of authen tic Californian spirit with European style,” said Eugene Leonard, General Manager of The Maybourne Beverly Hills. “From artfully redesigned guest rooms and suites to lively new dining destinations, nothing is more important to us than continuing to build upon a contemporary yet inviting atmosphere for our guests and local community to experience, all within the heart of Beverly Hills.”
◆ Clockwise from above: A cabana at the rooftop pool; The Maybourne Bar; dishes at The Terrace. > Opposite page: A view of The Terrace. Q 82/ FALL 2022 Courtesy of The Maybourne Beverly Hills
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British Accent
by R obe R t J an J igian
Five years after Michael and Paula Bickford proposed the renovation of two landmarked structures to create a new kind of private club in Palm Beach, akin to the renowned species of discreet establishments scattered throughout London’s West End, November will see the official debut of Carriage House, a members-only lunch, dinner, and night spot that seems tailor-made for the changed and somewhat “democratic” social scene in the venerable resort town.
As one charter member of Carriage House commented: “the three most highly prized clubs—Bath & Tennis, Sailfish, and granddaddy of them all, The Everglades—are impossible to get into, so the timing of the Bickford’s venture, which is similar to London’s popular 5 Hertford Street, is somewhat impeccable”. Not surprisingly, the PB “drumbeat” resounds with rumors of other new clubs close on their heels. In the
past five or six years, Palm Beach has been revived by the influx of well-heeled sorts from all parts, with savvy hoteliers and restaurateurs heeding the call for buzzy, smartly designed outposts and reinventions of the island’s traditional watering holes and gathering spots.
The Florida playground of the rich and famous—and infamous— has become a central player on the international landscape of younger, wealthy types in search of a place geared toward their tastes and access - not a stiff and exclusive institution with old school rules and family traditions. Think Gen-X over boomers, with a few boldfaced exceptions.
After a soft opening last spring, members and guests were impressed by the exotic and layered interior spaces coupled with the high level of cuisine at Carriage House. “I can imagine going there
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Photos Courtesy of Carriage House
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Opposite page: A rendering of Carriage House, located at 264-270 South County Road in Palm Beach, FL. From above: Co-Founders Michael and Paula Bickford; a colorful illustration of one of the bars at Carriage House.
not only for dinner, but as a place for a pre-meal cocktail or nightcap,’ said one charter member. Another thought the place seemed comfortable and convivial—and would be a “local” for a certain portion of the population during the high season. Members are generally hesitant to discuss the club’s dynamic, but are overwhelmingly positive in assessing it, with great food and ambience key in their impressions, and a hopeful prediction that Carriage House will be a resounding success, in a town where growth continues unabated.
Carriage House has faced many hurdles in its path to realization. The town’s notorious regulations were challenging to overcome. The Bickfords were granted permission to open after agreeing to 31 conditions imposed by the Town Council in a usage agreement, covering hours of operation, size of rooms within the two-building club, soundproofing, number of members (about 230), parking and other restrictions. The club has been the talk of the town, with much speculation about the cost of an individual adult membership (no corporate memberships are to be offered), whether membership has been capped (it hasn’t), and how one can go about garnering an invitation to join.
The club’s main portion, 264 South County Road, at the southern corner of the entrance to the historic Phipps Plaza enclave, is an
original 1930 Addison Mizner-designed structure. It once served as the office and trading floor of E.F. Hutton, who at the time was married to Marjorie Merriweather Post (the two resided at Mar-aLago, the Palm Beach estate the couple built together). Renowned Spanish interior designer Luis Bustamante created the luxuriously appointed “bespoke” series of rooms throughout Carriage House, and the menus of Mediterranean cuisine are “curated” by chef Mathias Gervais, with Japanese choices available as created by Shuji Hiyakawa. The wine cellar won’t disappoint either. No posting is permitted on club grounds, affording members and guests the freedom to carry on as they like without fear of getting “caught” on social media. “We fell in love with the iconic 264 Mizner building commissioned by E.F Hutton and the adjacent 270 building” says Paula Bickford. “Our vision was to preserve these historic buildings and to provide a cultural contribution to the town of Palm Beach”.
As a sage and longtime observer of the Island’s social scene wisely commented: “There are many Palm Beaches, and Carriage House can succeed by effusively serving the evolving taste of these most recent arrivals”.
Carriage House will celebrate its grand opening in November 2022. Located at the entrance of the iconic Phipps Plaza, Carriage House is comprised of the two buildings at 264-270 South County Road. The club worked diligently to preserve and restore the original features of its two primary structures. Opposite page, clockwise from upper right: Signature blue awnings and pots that characterize Carriage House; a look inside from the entryway; dining at Carriage House.
Photos courtesy of Carriage House
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Runway Roundup
by b rooke M urray The Spring/Summer 2023 presentations that caught our attention during New York Fashion Week.
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> LoveShackFancy LoveShackFancy debuted its Spring/Summer 2023 Collection with a celebration at the Cooper Hewitt Museum on the Upper East Side. Born and raised in New York, Creative Director Rebecca Hessel Cohen’s presentation was a nod to her love for the city—which is why she selected a venue situated across the street from Nightingale-Bamford, where she attended high school. After de signing “the ideal bridesmaids dresses” for her fairy-tale wedding, Cohen found ed LoveShackFancy in 2013 with a collection of fanciful silk dresses infused with modern femininity. The brand’s look is now defined by flattering silhouettes, soft hues, and intricate lace, with an emphasis on whimsical details such as hand-dyed fabrics, enchanting vintage-inspired romantic floral prints, ruffles, and bows. The SS23 Collection carries this sensibility to the next chapter, with exaggerated notions of hyper-femininity and dopamine dressing. Models donned pearly pink, vibrant yellow, pale lavender, willow green, soft ivory, and electric fuchsia with flirtatiously short taffeta bow minis, whisper-thin ruffle two-piece sets, twists on tweed power suiting, and elegant cut-slip dresses with lace appliqué. Further exemplifying her love for the Big Apple, the looks feature a range of botanical prints inspired by the New York Botanical Garden—from twirl-worthy floral embroidered blush slips to blossoming bubble dresses and dramatic lace-hemmed gala gowns with handmade chiffon rosettes designed for dressing up. The collection also includes updates to the brand’s best-selling butterfly and floral-embossed pumps and sandals, and new styles like boots, platform mules, and pearl-adorned heels.
Clockwise from above: Rebecca Hessel Cohen and LoveShackFancy models; India Bradley and Nieve Corrigan; Kit Keenan, Bridgette Pheloung, Lauren Wolfe, Sophie Suchan, and Emma Rose Leger; Serena Kerrigan; Rebecca Hessel Cohen with her daughters.
< Opposite page: A model in a LoveShackFancy look.
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< Veronica Beard Sisters-in-law Veronica Swanson Beard and Veronica Miele Beard founded their namesake brand in 2009 to celebrate the women who inspire them—the doers and the makers, the movers and the shakers. “We believe that the dream wardrobe must work for real life. Look good, feel good, do good,” explained the pair. The Spring/Summer 2023 Collection, presented at Spring Studios, as always, was designed for the women who are happy in their busy lives—with functionality and lifestyle in mind. Models donned classic yet trendy workwear and versatile suiting, and new versions of the iconic Veronica Beard Dickey Jacket. Patterns seen throughout the collection include heavy embroidery, basketweave leather, sequin embellishments, layering, wide-leg denim, skirt suits, and blazers constructed in fresh shapes.
> Fendi Fendi presented its Resort 2023 Collection at the Ham merstein Ballroom in New York with a special celebration for the anniversary of the brand’s iconic Fendi Baguette bag, which was first designed in 1997 by Silvia Venturini Fendi—the brand’s cur rent Artistic Director of Accessories, Menswear, and Children. “It was a special day when I designed this bag; the stars aligned. The horoscope said it was a Fendi day,” recalled Fendi. The brand is still releasing iterations of the timeless bag—which can be con sidered utilitarian or decorative, depending on its material and size. Fendi’s Creative Director, Kim Jones, tapped longtime icons to design their own collections of the Baguette bag, including his former boss at Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Tiffany & Co., Por ter, and Sarah Jessica Parker—with the stipulation that each col lection represent the person or brand’s unique relationship with the Fendi Baguette. For instance, the bag went viral after Sarah Jessica Parker proclaimed, “It’s not a bag, it’s a Baguette!” on an episode of Sex & the City. That statement is now inscribed inside of all of Sarah Jessica Parker’s capsule bags, which are embroi dered in degradé sequins with a palette of purple, wasabi, baby pink, or soft blue. Sarah Jessica Parker was among the star-stud ded crowd at the show, along with other notables including Kim Kardashian and Naomi Watts. “I didn’t want to do a traditional ‘collection’ for the anniversary. Rather it’s a celebration of a time, of the moment the Baguette became famous. I relate that time to a sense of freedom in excess and fun—both qualities the Baguette possesses,” expressed Jones.
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Clockwise from top left: The runway at the Fendi anniversary show; Everett Williams; Caro Daur; Shuzo Ohira; models walking the runway; Tanner Reese, Deon Hinton, and Sai De Silva. < Opposite page, counterclockwise from top right: Claiborne Swanson Frank; a look from the SS23 Collection; Veronica Swanson Beard and Veronica Miele Beard; looks from the SS23 Collection; Flaviana Matata and Leonie Hanne.
Phot0 Credit
Carolina Herrera The Secret Garden by Frances Hodgson Burnett, a beloved book from Creative Director Wes Gordon’s childhood, was the inspi ration behind Carolina Herrera’s Spring/Summer 2023 Collection presented at The Plaza Hotel. Likened to a garden of visual delights, the roman tic collection features oversize balloon sleeves in hand-painted tea roses and peonies, further in tensified with matching head-to-toe accessories. The presentation opened with a model donning a striped cotton blouse paired with a warp-print taffeta ball skirt, reminiscent of styles worn by late philanthropist and accomplished horticulturalilst and gardener, Bunny Mellon. Other feel-good looks include a tailored double-breasted suit paired with a dash of red floral chiffon, an architectural column dress in poppy red, and a black wool jacket featuring blossoms blooming from the seams.
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Clockwise from top left: Frances Estrada; SS23’s Corsetted Hip-De tailed Silk Faille Mini Dress; Sarah Lysander; Wes Gordon; Gabriela Tafur and Natalie Vertiz; SS23’s Floral Print Crepe de Chine Ball
Gown. < Opposite page, clockwise from top left: SS23’s Cape De tailed Crepe de Chiné Mini Dress; Balloon Sleeve Button Down Shirt, High Waisted Skinny pants, and Icon Belt; Eugenia Suarez.
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Patbo For Creative Director Patricia Bonaldi, the PatBO Spring 2023 Collection is both a forward-looking evolution and a return to her couture beginnings. Inspired by the 1960s, the collection features a mix of textures through hand beading and embroidery combined with high-tech fabrics and cutouts. Set against a black and white palette with pops of kinetic color and psychedelic print, geometric cut-outs and handmade flowers revealed influences from decades past with a nod to the future. Models walked the runway at The Atri um at Surrogate’s Court dressed in 39 looks that had all been handcrafted at Bonaldi’s Brazilian atelier. Each showcased the brand’s artisans’ skills—with intricate beading, silk flower ap pliqués, and avant-garde construction. Citing style icons like Twiggy and Jane Birkin as her muses, Bonaldi also included denim and easy-to-wear shift dresses among her looks. An eye-catching pop pink floor-grazing fringe gown made from individually hand-strung glass tube beads (which took more than two months to complete) graced the finale.
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u BFA
From above: Models walking the runway in SS23 looks; Patricia Bonaldi. > Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Tanya Ravichandran, Clara Perlmutter, Pierrah, and Lizzie Kaplan; SS23’s Illusion Wire Fully Beaded Mini Dress; SS23’s Fully-Beaded Strapless Top & Hand-Beaded Fringe Trim Maxi Skirt; Aurora Culpo, Sophia Culpo, and Olivia Culpo; SS23’s Stretch Jacquard Maxi Dress; Hand-Beaded Eyelet Mini Dress.
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Members club Annabel’s recently hosted its annual fundraising event, Annabel’s for the Amazon, which raises money to aid reforestation efforts in the Brazilian rainforest. This year, the Caring Family Foundation announced its commitment to planting one million trees by March 2024. The evening featured a lineup of DJs, including Jean Claude Ades, AME, Lloyd, and more, who performed across the multi-level venue. Guests also enjoyed bespoke themed cocktails like “Morphos” and “Explorita” by The Lost Explorer Mezcal—all inspired by the Amazon.
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celebrate the new Premiere original edition watch, Chanel hosted an evening at the buzzy new Casa Cruz restau rant and nightclub, situated in a six-story townhouse on the Upper East Side. The evening commenced with a cocktail hour on the rooftop, fol lowed by a seated dinner on the fifth floor, and almost all guests dressed in Chanel. Soo Joo Park, the face of the watch campaign, was present, as well as Lily Allen, Sarah Hoover
Dayan
Camille Rowe
and Flynn McGarry
Jessica Seinfeld,
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New York
On September 7th, The Couture Council of The Museum at FIT honored Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of women’s haute couture, ready-to-wear, and accessories collections for Dior, with its 2022 Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion during its annual luncheon at Lincoln Center. The award was presented by Samira Nasr, editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar. “Meeting Maria Grazia Chiuri was confirmation about the way Maria Grazia approaches fashion. It’s not an escape from the world but as a way to take it in. A way to make sense of it and to embrace everyone and everything it has to offer,” remarked Nasr.
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE COAST TO COAST NEW YORK 4 6 7 8 8 9 10 5 1. Dr. Joyce F. Brown, Maria Grazia Chiuri, and Dr. Valerie Steele 2. Julie Macklowe and Kara Ross 3. Melanie Fowler, Lara MeilandShaw, Lily Maddock, and Alexandra Vidal 4. Meredith Marks and friend 5. Francisco Costa 6. Lauren Day Roberts 7. Jamee Gregory and Hilary Dick 8. Candace Bushnell and Audrey Gruss 9. Yaz Hernández 10. Fe Fendi, Joanna Gong, and Alessia FendiBFA; Patrick McMullan
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QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE COAST TO COAST NEW YORK
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Bridgehampton
As a sponsor of the 46th Hampton Classic Horse Show, The Colony Palm Beach, affectionately known as the “Pink Paradise,” hosted a series of lunches in the USET tent. For the tablescape, Sarah Wetenhall , the hotel’s owner, hired Lewis Miller, who decorated the table to reflect The Colony’s iconic design, signature pinks and greens, and tropical style.
COAST TO COAST NEW
1.Sarah and Andrew Wetenhall 2. Daphne Oz 3. The Hampton Classic 4. Joey Wolffer and Beth Buccini 5. Kim Heirston 6. Elizabeth Kurpis, Carolyn Tate Angel, Carlie Lawrence, and Elisabeth Munder 7 Lee Au, Pamela Tick, Rebecca Hessel Cohen, Charlotte Munder, Sydney Sadick, Brooke Murray, Michael Gregson Reinert, Isaac Boots
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE
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Courtesy of The Colony Palm Beach; BFA
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QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE COAST TO COAST NEW YORK
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Over the summer, the Southampton Arts Center hosted SummerFest, its largest benefit and culinary arts festival that entertained more than 370 guests, which was followed by its first annual SummerFest After Dark event. Hosted by Alexander Hankin , Danielle Naftali , Makenzie Moon Phelan , and Andrew Warren , the afterparty featured an open bar, light bites, and a live performance by Kelis , who sang her iconic hit “Milkshake.” Fittingly, Whipshots and milkshakes topped with the alcohol
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE COAST TO COAST NEW YORK 5 6 7 8 9 4 Southampton
infused whipped cream were served. 1. SummerFest After Dark 2. Alexander Hankin and Mercedes de Guardiola 3. Andrew Warren and Emira D’Spain 4. Maria and Kenneth Fishel 5. Jessica Vosk 6. Brooke Korine and Julia Moshy 7. Simone Levinson 8. Sydney Sadick and Nick Adams 9. KelisGetty Images; BFA; Patrick McMullan
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at home in 1953. 2. CHARLOTTE TILBURY The new Glow Toner is pore-refining, acid-free, and hydrating; $55 at
3. DARPHIN To help maintain hydration day after day, the Hydraskin Light Gel Cream is a moisturizer that keeps makeup fresh; $70 at darphin.com. 4. LA MER For visibly smoother skin, The Concentrate is a barrier serum that strengthens and protects; $220 at cremedelamer.com. 5. LA PRAIRIE Skin Caviar Harmony L’Extrait provides an intensive resculpting treatment;
6. ESTÉE LAUDER Twenty percent of the purchase price of the Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex will be donated to Breast Cancer Research Foundation through June 30th (up to a maximum of $268,00 or until supplies last); 50ml for $110 at esteelauder.com. Infused with an ultra-high concentration of pigments, this refillable satin Rouge Allure L’Extrait lipstick reveals incomparable shade intensity upon first application that lasts for up to eight hours; $55 at chanel.com. 8. CHANTECAILLE The Cougar Eye Quartet offers four neutral eye shades inspired by the ombre tones of the cougar’s coat and eyes, and was created to support Yellowstone Forever; $75 at chantecaille.com.
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE BEAUTY FACE
Alfred Eisenstaedt/Life Pictures/Shutterstock
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hair ornaments by Sant’ Angelo, earrings by KJL, photographed by Irving Penn for 1967. 2. GHD HAIR Helios 1875W Advanced Professional Hair Dryer ($279) and Platinum + Styler - 1" Flat Iron ($279), both in limited-edition Orchid Pink; visit ghdhair.com.
BADESCU The Coconut Body Butter softens and moisturizes skin; $16 at mariobadescu.com. 4. NATURA This Ekos Tukumã lotion is a body moisturizer that immediately hydrates and improves skin texture; $27 at naturabrasil.com. 5. SEEN A gentle body wash that effectively cleanses without disrupting the skin’s barrier; $29 at helloseen.com. 6. R+CO The Television Perfect Hair Shampoo and Conditioner Set provides everything you need for the small screen (body, shine, strengthening, softening, and smoothing); $68 at randco.com. 7. BUMBLE AND BUMBLE For every purchase of the Bb. Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil Heat/UV Protector Primer, Estée Lauder Companies will donate 50% of the purchase price to Breast Cancer Research Foundation through June (up to a maximum of $80,000 or until supplies last); $32 at bumbleandbumble.com.
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QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE BEAUTY BODY & HAIR
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1. CHRISTIAN DIOR The world famous designer was in his 40s when he made fashion history by introduc ing the “New Look” in 1947. Featuring soft rounded shoulders, a cinched waist, and a very full skirt, this new style of dressing celebrated ultrafemininity and opulence—a dramatic departure from the simpler frocks worn by women during World War II. Above, a Christian Dior dinner dress and coat from 1953. 2. ASPREY 1781 Pochette in Cameo Lizard, $7,200 at asprey.com. 3. GRAFF Pear Shape Diamond Earrings of pear shape diamonds totaling 10.00 carats set in platinum and white gold, $150,000 at graff.com. 4. ELIE SAAB A look from Elie Saab’s 2022 Couture Collection. 5. VHERNIER Freccia bracelet in 18K rose gold. Visit vhernier.com for inquiries. 6. MANOLO BLAHNIK Chastora 105mm Metallic Leather Ankle-Tie Sandals, available at manoloblahnik.com.
6 2 1 QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE EVENING LOOKS
4artribune.com Q 108/ FALL 2022
1. AUDREY HEPBURN famously said, “There is a shade of red for every woman.” Designer Bill Blass advised his famous clientele, “When in doubt. Wear red.”
Something about a lady in red will always turn heads. Find your shade of red and feel bold and beautiful this fall.
2. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Loubi Twist Patent Zip Clutch Bag, $850 at bergdorfgoodman.com.
Melody Patent Black ankle-wrap sandals, $760 at bergdorfgoodman.com. from Oscar de la Renta’s Resort 2023 Collection.
Sunburst Cuff of 18k gold and black enamel set with one oval cabochon sapphire, four cabochon pear-shaped rubies, four cultured pearls, and four round diamonds, $69,500 at greenleafcrosby.com.
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE EVENING LOOKS 1
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Arrowsmith
1. JEAN SHRIMPTON is one of the world’s first supermodels. She is an icon of Swinging London and a key face of the 1960s. Above, “The Shrimp” wears a gown by Mainbocher paired with David Webb yellow sapphire earrings, in a photo taken by Richard Avedon for Vogue , November 1, 1967. Diamond Necklace of graduated diamonds set in white gold, with a total weight of 15.50 carats, $110,000 at graff.com.
3. WEMPE Flowery Earrings of 84 diamonds totaling 6.18 carats set in 18k white gold, $31,780 at wempe.com.
4. MONIQUE LHUILLIER A pink strapless silk gown from Monique Lhuillier’s Spring 2023 collection.
5. JEFFREY LEVINSON Elina PLUS Clutch in Antique White with Chrome Hardware, $1,250 at jeffreylevinson.com. 6. JIMMY CHOO Sandals, $1,050 at bergdorfgoodman.com.
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1. DOVIMA was discovered in her early 20s by an ed Vogue as she was walking out of an Automat in New York City—she was ushered to a photoshoot with Irving Penn the following day. Dovima went on to become the highest paid model of the 1950s. Above, she is captured by William Helburn in his 1957
Dovima On Deck 2. WEMPE
Bangle of 170 diamonds totaling 12.89 carats set in white gold, $45,175 at wempe.com. 3. ASPREY Tourmaline Ring of pink tourmalines and blue sap phires mounted in 18k rose and white gold, $12,600 at asprey.com.
4. CAROLINA HERRERA A sparkling floral look from Carolina Herrera’s Resort 2023 Collec tion. 5. MANOLO BLAHNIK Chaos 105mm Metallic Napa Sandals, $775 at bergdorfgoodman.com.
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE EVENING LOOKS 1
William Helburn
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SHOP ’TIL YOU DROP!
A
> Aerin: aerin.com.
> Akris: 835 Madison Ave. or akris.ch.
> A La Vieille Russie: alvr.com.
> Alexandra Mor: alexandramor.com.
> Asprey: asprey.com.
B
> Badgley Mischka: badgleymischka.com.
> Bergdorf Goodman: bergdorfgoodman.com.
> Betteridge: betteridge.com.
> Bloomingdale’s: 800.777.0000 or bloomingdales.com.
> Bottega Veneta: 212.371.5511 or bottegaveneta.com.
> Brunello Cucinelli: brunellocucinelli.com.
> Bulgari: bulgari.com.
> Burberry: 877.217.4085 or burberry.com.
C
> Carolina Herrera: 212.249.6552 or carolinaherrera.com.
> Cartier: 800-227-8437 or cartier.us.
> Chanel: 800.550.0005 or chanel.com.
> Chopard: 212.223.2304 or us.chopard.com.
D
> David Yurman: 888.398.7626 or davidyurman.com.
> Dennis Basso: 825 Madison Ave., 212.794.4500.
> Diane von Furstenberg: dvf.com.
> Dior: 212.931.2950 or dior.com.
> Diptyque: 971 Madison Ave., 212.879.3330.
> DKNY: dkny.com.
> Dolce & Gabbana: 212.249.4100 or dolceandgabbana.com.
E
> EF Collection: efcollection.com.
> Elie Saab: eliesaab.com.
> Elizabeth Gage: elizabeth-gage.com.
> Emilio Pucci: 212.901.5004 or emiliopucci.com.
F
> Fabergé: 579 5th Ave., 646.559.8848.
> Fendi: 598 Madison Ave. or fendi.com.
G
> GANT: 646.367.5416 or us.gant.com.
> Gauhar Jewelry: gauharjewelry.com.
> Ghurka: 831 Madison Ave. or ghurka.com.
> Gianvito Rossi: gianvitorossi.com.
> Giorgio Armani: 877.361.1176 or armani.com.
> Gucci: 877.482.2430 or gucci.com.
H
> H. Stern: hstern.net.
> Harry Winston: harrywinston.com.
> Hermès: 800.441.4488 or hermes.com.
I
> Ippolita: ippolita.com.
> Irene Neuwirth: At Jeffrey New York, 212.206.1272.
J
> J.McLaughlin: 844.532.5625 or jmclaughlin.com.
> J. Mendel: 212.832.5830 or jmendel.com.
> Jimmy Choo: 877.955.2466 or jimmychoo.com.
> John Varvatos: johnvarvatos.com.
> Judith Leiber: judithleiber.com.
K
> Kotur: koturltd.com.
L
> L’Objet: 370 Bleecker St., 212.659.0316, or l-objet.com.
> La Perla: laperla.com.
> Lightbox: lightboxjewelry.com.
> Linda Horn: 1327 Madison Ave. or lindahorn.com.
> Loro Piana: At Bergdorf Goodman.
> Louis Vuitton: 866.VUITTON or vuitton.com.
M
> M. Dumas & Sons: 843.723.8603.
> Maja DuBrul: 325 E. Hopkins Ave., Aspen, Colo., 970.920.1133.
> Manolo Blahnik: 212.582.3007 or manoloblahnik.com.
> Michael Kors: 800.908.1157 or michaelkors.com.
> Moncler: moncler.com.
N
> Neiman Marcus: 888.888.4757 or neimanmarcus.com.
> Nouvel Heritage: nouvelheritage.com.
O
> Orlebar Brown: At The Royal Poinciana Plaza in Palm Beach (561.328.3204) or orlebarbrown.com.
> Oscar de la Renta: 888.782.6357 or oscardelarenta.com.
P
> P. Johnson: pjt.com.
> Patek Philippe: At Wempe New York or patek.com.
R
> Ralph Lauren: 888.475.7674 or ralphlauren.com.
> Riedel: riedelusa.net.
> Rizzoli: 1133 Broadway or rizzoliusa.com.
> Roberto Coin: At Neiman Marcus or Roberto Coin, 800.853.5958 and us.robertocoin.com.
> Rolex: 800.36.ROLEX or rolex.com.
S
> Saint Laurent Paris: 212.980.2970 or ysl.com.
> Saks Fifth Avenue: 877.551.SAKS or saksfifthavenue.com.
> Salvatore Ferragamo: ferragamo.com.
> Stella McCartney: stellamccartney.com.
> Stuart Weitzman: 212.823.9560 or stuartweitzman.com.
T
> Tibi: 888.420.3334 or tibi.com.
> Tom Ford: 212.359.0300 or tomford.com.
> Tory Burch: toryburch.com.
V
> Valentino: 212.772.6969 or valentino.com.
> Van Cleef & Arpels: vancleefarpels.com.
> Verdura: 745 Fifth Ave. or verdura.com.
> Veronica Beard: 988 Madison Ave., 646.930.4746, or veronicabeard.com.
> Vhernier: vhernier.com.
W
> Wempe: 212.397.9000 or wempe.com.
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE SHOPPING INDEX Q 112/ FALL 2022
Mark Shaw
TAKE ME TO THE PINK PARADISE TH£ HOT£.L 155 HAMMON AVENUE PALM BEACH FL 33480 (561) 655-5430 THECOLONYPALMBEACH.COM
50 Shades of Sun
The Greenleaf & Crosby Diamond Collection
Fancy Yellow Diamond Rings