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42 my nights with oleg & igor cassini Liz Smith recounts the early days of her career contributing under the legendary “Cholly Knickerbocker” pen name and her nights of research at El Morocco with the Cassini brothers. 52 illusions of beauty Rachel Corbett reads the new book Masters of Fashion Illustration, a celebration of the greatest fashion illustrators of all time. 60 the final turn Just in time for the release of the new film Secretariat, Georgina Schaeffer visits with Q readers about their most cherished racing recollections.
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66 pygmalion revisited Amanda Meigher reviews Bridie Clark’s latest book, The Overnight Socialite, a rollicking modern-day Pygmalion tale. 68 a needle and thread Elizabeth Brown and photographer Ben Fink Shapiro chat with Thread Social designers Beth Blake and Melissa Akey on how they created a label now known for designing perfect party dresses.
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74 shopping and champagne Q’s Elizabeth Meigher travels to sunny Los Angeles to join a few pals at the ever-chic ARCADE boutique for an evening of one-stop shopping and tasty Cointreau cocktails. 76 far from child’s play Tatiana Perkins, a board member of the New York Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Children, reports on her vital and moving work with the world’s first child protection agency. 86 Carrying Kotur Daniel Cappello visits the Upper East Side home of the intrinsically fashionable Kotur family to observe the development of Fiona Kotur’s latest collection of KOTUR handbags, which her mother illustrates.
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Ali MacGraw modeling a suit by Jacques Tiffeau, a hat by Emme, and white kid gloves. Condé Nast Archive/Corbis. March, 1967. Photographed by Sante Forlano.
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21 Nostalgia Remembering our favorite pastimes of yesteryear. 24 Jewelry Sparkle like a starlet with the season’s most breathtaking diamonds and gemstones. 28 trendS Straight off the runways, we spot the latest trends, from camel-colored coats to show-stopping shifts. 34 accessories Add a hint of pizzazz to any ensemble with these finishing touches for men and women.
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35 shoes The new crop of fall boots come in sleek styles of all lengths—from sky-high Louboutins to classic leather riding boots from J. Crew. 36 handbags It’s time to ditch the casual summer weekender bag and upgrade to something a little more sophisticated. Don’t miss these elegant, timeless styles for fall. 38 men’s apparel Look your best in the fall’s heavy, textured sweaters, jackets, and trousers for men.
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92 q focus From Aspen to Saratoga, Q takes you behind the scenes of the hottest parties from coast to coast. 100 ask the experts Three industry leaders share new cutting-edge practices that stave off the signs of aging. 104 beauty The best new autumnal colors, fresh skincare savers, and seductive fall fragrances. 106 evening looks We turned to our favorite Hollywood screen sirens for inspiration on the latest in glamorous eveningwear. 110 shopping index Locate all the great loot from these pages.
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112 staff selections Q staffers remember our favorite Halloween costumes, old and new.
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David Patrick Columbia
Elizabeth Meigher
editor-in-Chief
Editor
james stoffel Creative director
Georgina Schaeffer executive editor
rachel corbett senior editor
elizabeth brown a ssociate editor
Daniel Cappello fa shion editor
valeria fox A ssociate Art Director
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oliver ames, Christina arza, REBECCA BROWN, victoria gucci-losio, sophie stileman, sam tweddell interns
Joanna Baker co-founding editor
Quest Media, LLC. S. Christopher Meigher III Chairman and C.E.O.
kathleen sheridan a ssi stant to the c.e.o.
arlene lefkoe accounting manager Board of Advisors
Brucie Boalt Edward Lee Cave Barbara CORCORAN JED H. GARFIELD CLARK HALSTEAD howard lorber pamela liebman Elizabeth Stribling Roger W. Tuckerman peter turino William Lie Zeckendorf lisa rosenberg 917.576.8951 greenwich
Bina Gupta 852.2868.1555 Hong Kong
Contributing Editors
Barbara Bancroft AMANDA MEIGHER Liz smith Taki Theodoracopulos michael thomas Contributing photographers
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Š QUEST MEDIA, LLC 2010. All rights reserved. Vol. 5, No. 4. Q-Quintessential Style is published quarterly, 4 times a year. Yearly subscription rate $24.00. Q, 420 Madison Avenue, Penthouse, 16th floor, New York, NY 10017. 646.840.3404 fax 646.840.3408. For address changes, please call: 646.840.3404. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Q-Quintessential Style, 420 Madison Avenue, Penthouse, 16th floor, New York, NY 10017. subscription Inquiries
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LEONARD NELSON (1912 - 1993)
Three Decades of Masterworks, 1960 - 1980 New York exhibition opening November 9 TH, 2010 Palm Beach exhibition opening November 26TH, 2010
WA L LY F I N D L AY G A L L E R I E S I N T E R N AT I O N A L , I N C. 1 2 4 E A S T 5 7 T h S T. • N E W Y O R k , N E W Y O R k • T E L : 2 1 2 - 4 2 1 - 5 3 9 0 1 6 5 W O R T h AV E N U E • PA L M B E A C h , F L O R I D A • T E L : 5 6 1 - 6 5 5 - 2 0 9 0 NEW Y OR k • LOS ANG ELES • B AR CE LON A• PA L M BE ACh
EST. 1870
ART WALLY FINDLAY
Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L
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Fall has always been my favorite time of year. Sure, summer is fun, but it often brings a laziness that autumn counters with welcome renewal and excitement. When I was a young girl, fall meant the swift hop, skip, and leap from Halloween to Thanksgiving to Christmastime. In college, it meant tailgating and bounding across the Green as brightly colored leaves crunched beneath my feet. Now it means reuniting with friends after summers apart, and getting excited for the coming months. And we all know fashion is on everyone’s mind come fall—not only because the summer months require so little of it (literally)— but also because fall brings with it Fashion Week, the newly esteemed Fashion’s Night Out, and the big swing back into an onset of events and parties. Fall means fashion, and lots of it! This season also marks a turning point for Q. Everything that we have been advocating since we first opened our books nearly five years ago—effortless style, timeless classics, minimalist elegance—have come back to the runways in full force. Be it the Mad Men phenomenon, the simplicity of Sookie Stackhouse, or our obsession with the wardrobes of Michelle Obama and Carla Bruni—designers are once again interested in ladies looking like ladies. In that sense, nothing could be more timely than Liz Smith’s piece on brothers Oleg and Igor Cassini. Diana Vreeland once characterized them as having “joie de vivre—a built-in sense of pleasure—beautiful manners—and the know-how to mix them with business.” Oleg, once married to Gene Tierney, was a renowned clothing designer. And Liz was hired as a writer for Igor and given the exceptional opportunity to commingle with El Morocco’s newly minted “P.R. guy,” Jim Mitchell. Liz offers a fascinating portrait of the kings of Camelot as we will never know them again. At our recent Q party at ARCADE boutique in Los Angeles, I was speaking to my dear friend Minnie Mortimer and was reminded of a similar “scene” that only Minnie would have found as funny as I did. Now a talented fashion designer in L.A., I knew Minnie when we were little girls growing up in New York City. Somehow we got to talking about Mortimer’s Restaurant, a spot our parents used to frequent religiously. We remembered chasing around owner Glenn Bernbaum’s beloved pug, “Swifty,” as young girls. What Minnie and I found so incredible was, although the phone rang constantly and the line for tables was long, Glenn preferred to run his restaurant more like a club, leaving tables empty lest they be filled by people he didn’t know! Speaking of legendary characters, I loved seeing the name Penny Chenery—octogenarian owner of the Triple Crown-winner Secretariat—pop up in Georgina Schaeffer’s sports column. My family has been going to Saratoga for generations, and my father remembers Chenery as one of the most able and smartest women of her day. Diane Lane has big shoes to fill in the new film! This issue is also chock full of talented and impressive ladies: Daniel Cappello’s article on Fiona Kotur’s beautiful handbag line; Lizzie Brown’s piece on Beth Blake and Melissa Akey of Thread Social, the go-to label for perfect party dresses. And don’t miss Tatiana Perkin’s moving article on the the New York Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Children. Clockwise from top left: Fiona Kotur sketch; Diane Lane as I would be remiss not to mention our cover girl, actress Ali MacGraw, Penny Chenery; Louis Vuitton coat; Ryan O’Neal and Ali MacGraw, for she was one of the icons I had in mind when I began Q. A Choate in her famous camel coat, in Love Story; Carolina Herrera shift; and Wellesley alum, few people know that MacGraw began her career Kasey Crown, Elizabeth Meigher, Flo Fulton, Minnie Mortimer, and as a photography assistant under Diana Vreeland at Harper’s Bazaar. Rochelle Gores Fredston at ARCADE; Tommy Hilfiger camel coat; She was arguably most famous for her turn in the movie Love Story, young Amanda Meigher and Minnie Mortimer; Mrs. Kennedy, 1962; sporting a wardrobe that still reigns uber-chic today—especially that Mary Sanford, Liz Smith, and Joe Riley at El Morocco; January high-collar camel coat. That coat still inspires top designer lines today, Jones; Oleg Cassini and Grace Kelly; Michelle Obama in Narciso examples of which you will see as you turn these pages! u Rodriguez, Michael Kors and Carla Bruni-Sarkozy in Christian Dior.
ELIZABETH MEIGHER EDITOR
J i m M i tch e ll (El M oro cc o )
EDITOR’S LETTER
© D.YURMAN 2010
THE TOWNHOUSE AT MADISON & 63RD 212 752 4255 DAVIDYURMAN.COM
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CONTRIBUTORS
Liz Smith > Sixty years ago, Liz brought her Texan wit, verve, and nerve to New York. Liz’s latest passion, WOWOWOW.com, offers sophisticated daily content for women over forty. In her early career, she held a variety of jobs: proofreader at Newsweek, editor for Modern Screen, typist for Blue Cross. She later became entertainment editor for Cosmopolitan and a contract writer for Sports Illustrated. In 1976, she launched a column for the Daily News known simply as “Page 6.” She is the author of several books, including Natural Blonde and Dishing.
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Elizabeth Brown > Elizabeth is the associate editor of Q magazine and Quest magazine, where she writes “The Young and the Guest List”column in addition to other stories for both titles. Before Quest, she interned at Dutko Worldwide, a bipartisan lobbying firm in Washington, D.C. For this issue of Q, Elizabeth produced a piece on Beth Blake and Melissa Akey of Thread and Thread Social. She is an alumna of Phillips Exeter Academy and Trinity College and currently resides on the Upper East Side.
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Daniel Cappello > Currently the fashion editor of Quest and Q, Daniel has worked with many photographers, including the likes of Richard Avedon, Harry Benson, and, for this issue of Q, Joshua Bright. “For me, photographers are just as fun and interesting as the subjects I cover,” Daniel says. “Each one brings something unique to the story in his own right.” In this issue, Daniel writes about Fiona Kotur Marin and her handbag line. “Joshua,” he says, “has a real eye for style—and also for human character.”
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42 < Ben Fink Shapiro Originally from Cincinnati, photographer Ben Fink Shapiro graduated from Vassar College and began shooting for clients in New York City during his four years at school. Shortly after graduation, Ben assisted British fashion photographer Miles Aldridge. Ben’s advertising clients include Brunello Cucinelli, Metalskin, Miguelina, Tibi, Terramar Sports, and Dallin Chase. Recently, he entered the film world, having directed a commercial for RD Style. Ben lives on the Lower East Side of Manhattan.
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< Tatiana Perkin Born in New York and raised in Greenwich, Tatiana is a partner at Tribal Societé, which markets handmade accessories from around the world and donates part of its proceeds to the Global Fund for Women. Here, she writes on the New York Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Children (NYSPCC). In addition to serving on the NYSPCC’s board of directors, she also sits on the Women’s Board of the Boys’ Club of New York and has co-chaired the Winter Antiques Show Young Collector’s Night.
86 < Joshua Bright A native of New England, Joshua makes his living as an award-winning freelance photojournalist in New York City, working for such titles as The New York Times and Vogue. Joshua has received numerous NPPA, NEPA, MPA, and NYPA awards for newspaper photographs in New York and Maine, including the 2007 New York Press Association Photographer of the Year. For this issue, he photographed Fiona Kotur Marin, of KOTUR LTD. handbag fame, along with her mother and sister.
B O U TIQ U E d e G R ISO G O N O 824 M A D ISO N AV E N U E - 2 1 2 4 3 9 4 2 2 0
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Key to the cure Get the shirt. Shop the weekend. Show your support.
Join Saks Fifth Avenue in the fight against women’s cancers. Get the shirt, designed by Donna Karan, exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue this october. then shop october 21 to 24, when Saks donates 2% of sales to local and national women’s cancer charities.* Special thanks to uma thurman, the 2010 Ambassador for Key to the cure.
*Saks will donate 2% of sales thursday to Sunday, october 21 to 24, up to $500,000. Saks Fifth Avenue will also make a donation of $375,000 to the Breast cancer research Foundation®. Visit saks.com/Kttc to learn more. 800.429.0996 © SAKS FIFTH AVENUE 2010 ONLINE: SAKS.COM FACEBOOK.COM/SAKS TWITTER.COM/SAKS
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FAL L AC T IVIT I E S Queen Elizabeth II out for a hack on the
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This page: 1. Children giving thanks in the 1950s; 2. Prince Charles in a classic tartan kilt and Princess Diana in a suit by Bill Pashley at Balmoral Castle, 1981; 3. Underdog and Bullwinkle take to the sky for the Thanksgiving Day Parade in New York City during the 1960s; 4. High School Cheerleaders, 1947; 5. Fall foliage. > Opposite page: 1. The Kennedy family outside their home in Georgetown; 2. A pumpkin patch ready for picking for Halloween; 3. Princetonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Michael Lerch catching a seventy-five-yard touchdown pass in a game against Penn; 4. An advertisement announcing the opening of The Plaza; 5. The Head of the Charles Regatta takes place every October in Boston.
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Natalie Wood, one of the few child actors able to grow into equally successful roles as an adult, was a natural talent who seemed to grow up for America on the big screen. She could play defiant and feisty roles, like Gypsy Rose Lee, or, when stripped of her makeup and affectations, could be seen for her natural appeal in films like Splendor in the Grass, opposite Warren Beatty. Like any natural beauty, Wood didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t need makeup or accessories, though she certainly wowed us in big hoops and rings. Take a cue from Wood and pick out a statement piece or two to add a little luster to your own natural beauty.
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1. ippolita Rock Candy Lollipop ring in clear quartz, with a 2.9-mm. 18-kt. gold band; $1,350. 2. tiffany & co. Black enamel-and-diamond bracelet in 18-kt. yellow gold; $40,000. 3. david yurman Three-row diamond confetti bracelet, in 18-kt. gold and pavĂŠ diamonds; $5,950. 4. elva fields Two-inch drop pyrite briolettes on 14-kt. gold-fill wires; $98. 5. ruby kobo Rose-gold white-diamond stick bracelet with natural linen wrap; $1,050. 6. marco bicego Confetti Gemme rings, made in Italy, come in an array of golds and stones; from $745. 7. douglas hannant The fashion-designer fave of the Upper East Side set now has a jewelry line, including this metal-and-stone cuff; $650.
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3 Jane Russell’s dazzling career as a silver-screen starlet in the ’40s and ’50s could be attributed to her buxom figure, sure, but it was also backed by a talent for portraying strong leading ladies. Recreate her show-stopping look from the set of the 1956 film The Revolt of Mamie Stover with round cluster diamond earrings by Harry Winston or a Chanel collier. Indulge in a little old-Hollywood glamour by slipping into a few diamond-laced bangles by Wempe. Or, when the occasion calls for gold, try on the Water Lily bracelet from Mikimoto, or the B.zero1 ring by Bulgari in pink gold and black enamel.
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1. bulgari The B. zero1 ring in pink gold and black ceramic; $890. 2. mikimoto The Milano Collection Water Lily bracelet, with black South Sea pearls, diamonds, and 18-kt. pink gold; $19,000. 3. chanel The CHANEL necklace in metal and strass; $1,200. 4. Harry Winston The brilliant diamond open-cluster earrings, 5-ct. set in platinum; price upon request. 5. van cleef & arpels Magic Alhambre gold with pavé diamonds; $13,600. 6. wempe Bangle bracelets, in 18-kt. white or rose gold, with brilliant-cut diamonds; $3,375-$20,125. 7. cartier Love Collection bracelet in 18-kt. white gold with blue and pink sapphires, spinels, amethysts, and aquamarines; $7,100.
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Keeping It Camel “I don’t mind living in a man’s world as long as I can be a woman in it,” declared Marilyn Monroe. This fall, classic camel tones paint everything from men’s wear styles to silky, romantic silhouettes. When wearing neutral colors from head to toe, incorporate a slim skirt or a waist-cinching belt into the ensemble for a more feminine look. Ladies will be sure to catch every man’s eye in a heavy-lapeled overcoat from Tommy Hilfiger or a military-inspired jacket from Tod’s. As Ferragamo knows, nothing carries camel to your toes better than brown leather knee-high boots, especially when you’re in a pencil skirt.
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1. michael kors Barley military raglan-sleeve Gabardine wool Balmacaan coat ($2,395), barley silk shirtdress ($1,795), and Vicuna leather belt ($250). 2. gucci Sand cashmere kite-cut overcoat ($3,200) and abaco luxury stretch flannel pant ($950). 3. salvatore ferragamo Camel wool blazer ($3,200) and pencil skirt ($2,700) with gold silk ruffle blouse ($1,590). 4. chloÉ Fall collection camel wool-cashmere pants and camel silk blouse. 5. akris Double-face fur-lined hood coat; $4,990. 6. etro Viscose and silk kimono ($2,627) and wool military suit ($1,985). 7. tod’s Long camel coat; $1,945. 8. tommy hilfiger Camel coat; $500. 9. Max mara Camel hair coat ($3,590), lamé/silk gold blouse ($650), with leather gloves ($195), leather belt ($285), and leather boots ($875).
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Mad For Minimalism When you think of fashion, airline uniforms might not be the first thing that come to mind. But, as the sartorial craze over Mad Men has proven, when it comes to the ’60s, everybody seemed to have done it right, including flight attendants (these ’60s stewardesses showed off their gams in mod mini-dresses). Fast-forward to this fall’s collections and you’ll be seeing a trend toward a return to minimalist chic, with many designers drawing inspiration from mini-dresses and the simplicitiy of that other bare-bones dress, the shift. The looks, like Milly’s simple and chic tri-color dress, or Miu Miu’s colorful and playful natté dress, streamline the silhouette down to arms and legs. Calvin Klein’s dart dress recalls a slight flapper style, which is only appropriate, considering that ’20s flappers were the first women to usher in the shift style.
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1. luca luca Viscose and cotton shift dress with matte and shine contrast; $1,190. 2. milly The white trim around Milly’s combo Jenny dress in tri-color gives the illusion of a sleeveless shift, but keeps it long-sleeved; $365. 3. Yigal AzrouËl Lychee compact jersey racer-back dress; $1,195. 4. Carolina herrera Belts cinch your waistline, like on this ivory cotton stretch flared pleated dress with python belt, from the Carolina Herrera Resort 2011 collection. 5. j. mendel You can show off your legs and your arms with this midnight-blue silk viscose jersey dress with bustier and jersey wrap skirt and cap-sleeve detailing; $2,350. 6. miu miu Violet wool natté sleeveless dress with metal and natté flower appliqués and bow collar; $2,315. 7. calvin kLEin Ivory velvet devore and silk chiffon trim-dart detail dress; $1,995.
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Fur Trappings As Honey Ryder in the 1962 film Dr. No, Ursula Andress was the quintessential Bond girl. The steamy entrance showed her emerging from the Caribbean Sea in a white bikini that would later be auctioned for almost $55,000. While she was stunning in her swimwear, she spent colder scenes wrapped in something a little cozier. Fur trimmings will be covering women this year and taking everyday pieces to the next level of luxury. Whether it’s mink, fox, or feather masquerading as faux, these looks—like the elegance shown by furrier Dennis Basso—manage to keep it just right.
1. hermès Sleeveless reversible parka in leather and mink ($29,200) and Cavallière vest in bison leather ($7,800). 2. J. Mendel Midnight featherweight jacquard cap sleeve dress with paneled bodice and asymmetrical skirt; $1,995. 3. dennis basso Platinum charmeuse draped gown ($4,800) and fox sleeve ($3,500). 4. roberto cavalli Long-sleeve dress in gray and rose-patch printed chiffon ($2,620), patchwork fox fur vest ($9,890), scarf with nugget ($890), boots ($2,675), and pochette (price upon request). 5. carolina herrera Prussian-blue mosaic embroidered off-the-shoulder full-sleeve dress with smoke-gray sable trim. 6. Gryphon ny Vintage schoolboy blazer with fur collar from designer Aimee Cho; $1,265. 7. j. crew Martinete feather jacket with rows of hand-dyed marabou feathers lined with silk chiffon; $1,200.
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1. Tory Burch Tumbled leather Elle boot with logo hardware detail; $495. 2. hunter boot Regent Savoy boot in black; $175. 3. my ferragamo The modern “My Sweet” boot with a heel inspired by Salvatore Ferragamo’s historic “Rainbow;” $550. 4. j. crew Walker riding boot in rye made of durable waxed canvas and leather; $275. 5. ralph lauren Fordon boot in green quilted oil cloth and burnished leather; $995. 6. manolo blahnik Ringhe boot;
Booting Up
$1,295. 7. christian louboutin Big Lips Thigh Boot 120; $2,495. 8. bally Allex-P boot in cuoio leather; $1,195. 9. sergio rossi Stamped leather boot with fringe; $1,980.
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appeal—than it does today. On top of basically nonexistant security lines and practically de rigueur in-flight smoking, flight attendants could be expected in something other than drab gray uniforms. These mile-high sex symbols, in hot pants and boots, catered to traveling businessmen by serving up something to look at from the beverage cart. Attract similar attention in a pair of this fall’s hottest boots, no matter what height.
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Carried Away Throughout her engagement to Prince Rainier of Monaco, Grace Kelly toted an Hermès purse modeled on the high handles of a carrying case for riding saddles. Decades later, the Kelly bag remains as iconic as its namesake. This season offers some equally sophisticated bags with timeless appeal. New on the market is a handbag named in honor of another stunner of the silver screen— Isabella Rossellini, the latest muse for the house of Bulgari.
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3 1. RALPH LAUREN The alligator luggage buckle bag with hardware luggage tag is good for the office or on the go; $19,995. 2. sang a The River square tote in very soft rasberry vintage-finish alligator with square gold zipper pull detail; $9,450. 3. anne fontaine The Marlène Romy handbag in brown leather; $995. 4. cartier The large model Marcello de Cartier saddle bag in green crocodile skin; price upon request. 5. bulgari The Isabella Rossellini bag in white “kamari” safari pony hair with aventurine quartz closure and black and white enamel; $2,600. 6. vbh Nothing says “chic” better: the “Brera 40” day bag in leopard textured eel with lock and key detail; $4,650 7. asprey The “1781” 38-cm. handbag, here in sage python and lizard, is named for the year the house was founded and is a classic signature piece; $6,150.
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Fit For A Lady Kitty Carlisle, the late and great singer, movie star, and patron of the arts, always wore her heart on her sleeve, and pearls around her neck. Carlisle proved that even a simple accessory—like a squareframe skin belt—could go a long way in making a look. This fall, fix up your wardrobe with items that show a touch of class or a punch of pizzazz. Wrap yourself (or just your hair) with Asprey’s Regents Park scarf. Prada’s new Swing shades are a modern frame in a sleek, retro cat-eye style. If you’re a hat girl, try on Chanel’s sure-to-please tweed hat for fall. Not quite sure what to do with that dress? Like Kitty, you can always belt it up, especially with Ralph Lauren’s tri-strap.
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9 1. ralph lauren Brown suede tri-strap belt; $225. 2. t. anthony The classic duffle in black and white is also available with monogramming; $350. 3. façonnable Suede ballerina flats in blue. 4. prada Prada’s latest shades include the Swing sunglasses, here in tortoise; $245. 5. milly The Montauk multi-chain necklace, from Resort 2011, will hit stores in January; $275. 6. theory Accessorize the Ellery coat, Elise turtleneck, and Garland shorts with a hat (or leggings). 7. asprey Regents Park scarf; $450. 8. wempe The Rolex Oyster Lady-Datejust Pearlmaster, in 18-kt. yellow gold with mother-
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of-pearl diamond dial and 31 jewel chronometer movement, is available at Wempe Jewelers; $40,700. 9. chanel The CHANEL cap in tweed; $695.
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Steve McQueen remains an undisputed king of cool, and one of the suavest fashion icons for men. Whether racing in a leather jacket with driving gloves, smoking cigarettes in a classic bomber, or merely sitting on the sidewalk in tennis shoes and a pair of shades, McQueen had an effortless chic. This October, Persol presents the Steve McQueen collection, an exclusive line of limited-edition sunglasses inspired by the master. Why not grab a pair of this updated classic model 714, featuring a tortoise frame with blue lenses, or some other new accessory on the block, like leather goods from Tiffany & Co.’s Lambertson Truex line? It’s time to slip on a new watch—or slippers from newcomer Ovadia & Sons.
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Bits & Pieces
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9 1. ovadia & sons Evening slippers in blue velvet with silk trim, handmade in England; $350. 2. audemars piguet Jules Audemars chronograph; price upon request. 3. tod’s Multi-colored woven bracelets; $225 each. 4. cartier Roadster S watch in steel with leather strap; $4,200. 5. louis vuitton Riveted suede belt; $465. 6. persol Updated model 714 tortoise frame with blue lenses; $360. 7. ferragamo world Orange suede boot from Ferragamo World, a new, eco-friendly product line from Ferragamo that helps benefit the Acumen Fund; $295. 8. tiffany & co. Assorted Lambertson Truex for Tiffany & Co. leather wallets and card cases; $145 to $495. 9. façonnable Metal, enamel, and pearly cufflinks and mother-of-pearl cufflinks; $85 per set. 10. asprey Berkeley briefcase in tan saddle hide; $1,550.
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Man’s World James Dean once said, “Being a good actor isn’t easy. Being a man is even harder. I want to be both before I’m done.” Whether that’s true or not, acting like a man is certainly easy in fall’s thick, textured fabrics and boxy silhouettes. Harken back to your prep-school days with cable-knit cardigans, plaid blazers, and tie clips. J. Crew offers a smart staple for fall—the herringbone sportcoat. Michael Bastian encourages pink corduroys, as long as they’re paired with a thick tie with a loose Windsor knot and a seasonal plaid jacket. Etro blends the camel and green trends in one smart look, and Rag and Bone reminds us that shearling is always a fashionable accessory.
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1. FAçonnable Wool jacket with removable suede placket; $1,250. 2. j. crew The Whitman herringbone Ludlow sportcoat; $265. 3. Michael Bastian Kerouac jacket ($2,315), navy cashmere rib sweater ($1,245), and pink corduroy trouser ($455). 4. Ralph lauren Hawkins reversible newsboy jacket ($595), cableknit vest ($125), and Barnastable pant ($295). 5. Roberto Cavalli Wool coat, sweater, sequins tank, laser leather pants, and leather boots. 6. Rag and Bone Tweed street bomber, wax cotton racer jacket, plaid shirt, and shearling mittens. 7. etro Knitted coat (price upon request), cotton shirt ($375), and cotton trousers ($616). 8. Simon spurr Leather trench ($2,995), wool/cashmere sweater ($750), and flannel pants ($395).
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110 East 55th Street
N e w Yo r k , N e w Yo r k 1 0 0 2 2
Te l e p h o n e : ( 2 1 2 ) 7 5 5 - 7 3 7 2
Fax: (212) 755-7627
www.belgianshoes.com
Rob Howard for Town and Country
This is not the Internet. Feel free to curl up and settle in. Magazines don’t blink on and off. They don’t show video or deliver ads that pop up out of nowhere. You can’t DVR magazines and you can’t play games on them. But you can take one to the beach, to bed or just about anywhere else and, chances are, it will engage, entertain and enlighten you in ways no other medium can. Perhaps that explains why magazine readership has actually increased versus five years ago. The top 25 magazines continue to reach a wider audience than the top 25 primetime TV shows. And despite the escalating war for consumers’ eyeballs, readers spend an average of 43 minutes per issue. What accounts for this ongoing attraction? Why do nine out of ten American adults choose to spend so much time with an unabashedly analog medium? One enduring truth: people of every age love the experience of reading a magazine, even when the same content is available online. So curl up, get comfortable and enjoy the rest of this magazine.
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Liz Smith
Pa tr i c k Mc Mu lla n (N a ti o n a l A r t s Cl ub )
by
Way back at the end of the 1950s, when my agent, Gloria Safier, heard that I had been let go with hundreds of others in what was called “the Eisenhower recession” and lost my high-powered job at NBC as a producer, she got busy. She already knew a man named Don Maher, who was running Igor Cassini’s P.R. firm, Martial & Company. The latter operated in tandem with Cassini’s well-known, internationally syndicated society gossip column, which the Hearsts syndicated under a famous byline they owned—Cholly Knickerbocker. Gloria barked at me over the phone: “Call this number. Go see Don Maher. Cassini is looking for a column assistant.” I murmured, “But I don’t know anything about society or these
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My Nights With Oleg and Igor Cassini
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This page: Igor Cassini photograhed by Jim Mitchell. > Opposite: The National Arts Club honored Oleg Cassini in 2005.
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This page: At a White House dinner in honor of the President of Tunisia in 1961, Mrs. Kennedy wore the “Nefertiti” dress designed by Oleg Cassini. > Inset: Oleg Cassini speaking at the book party for What Jackie Taught Us, in 2004. > Opposite, clockwise from top left: Gene Tierney in On the Riviera; Tierney; Lord & Taylor saluted Oleg Cassini in 2005;
people.” Gloria was disgusted: “Nevermind. You can learn.” I had an interview with Maher, who told me sotto voce not to let Cassini beat me down to a smaller salary than such and such. And then I saw Igor Cassini, who was suave charm incarnate. He seemed distracted. It was obvious that he wanted to get the interview over with. He had heard I was a TV producer and knew I had a journalism degree. That was enough for him. “You’re hired!” he said. He named a $200 a week salary, which was less than Maher had advised I accept. But I, failing to do the arithmetic in the pinch, accepted. Cassini immediately said, “Call me Ghighi. It’s been my nickname since I was a curly-headed child. And if you use ‘Igor,’ then people get me mixed up with my brother, Oleg, the fashion designer. So I’m Ghighi to my nearest and dearest, and I hope you will become one of those.” I was thoroughly charmed. What a guy! Dynamic, sexy, European, famous. “I know all about your brother,” I said. “He was married to the beautiful Gene Tierney; he makes Hollywood costumes.” Ghighi smiled: “Not
anymore. Now he is in New York and runs his fashion business. Oleg and I are very different and yet much alike.” I read up on the two Cassinis. Vogue’s Diana Vreeland had characterized them as having “joie de vivre—a built-in sense of pleasure—beautiful manners—and the know-how to mix them with business.” I looked up some Cholly Knickerbocker columns and despaired. How could I contribute to a world I knew nothing about? I saw that Cholly wasn’t modest. The column often began: “Between you and me and lamppost and 20,000,000 readers…” Igor Cassini had been writing it since September, 1945, a time he described as “the heyday for gossip columnists.” Cassini assured me that I’d catch on to “Cholly” style. “Anyway, you don’t have to do anything at first. I want you as a backup to Ed Wilcox, my assistant. You’ll work here in this townhouse in the 60s. We operate the column out of the basement. Up here”—he waved his hand to indicate luxurious townhouse paneling and carpeting—“we talk with Fiat, Pirelli, and the rest of my public-relations clients.” Did I say to my new employer, “Isn’t that a conflict of interest, journalism and public relations under the same roof?” I did not. I was both too apprehensive and too glad to have a job. Soon after starting, Don Maher introduced me to a friend of his, Jim Mitchell. “He’s going to be John Perona’s new P.R. guy for El Morocco. You can teach him the ropes.” Mitchell stood there in his elegant overcoat wearing an homburg. When he took it off, I swear he had his hair parted in the middle like some hayseed. He was trim, polite, but seemed naïve. I felt he’d never make it in the rarefied atmosphere of El Morocco. Even I knew that much. I had been to the famous nightclub a few times with Cassini. He introduced me around, “Get to know the owner, John Perona, the hat-check girl, Eileen McKenna, the maitre d’, Angelo Zuccotti, all the waiters. They’re a fountain of knowledge.” But it was difficult for me to go to El Morocco alone. I couldn’t be brazen like Walter Winchell, Leonard Lyons, or Earl Wilson. They were men and known faces. As a woman in the ’50s, I couldn’t just go up to
Pa tr i c k Mc Mu lla n (c o n te m po ra r y i m age s )
Tierney in Leave her to Heaven; Tierney’s promotional shot for Laura.
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This page: Gene Tierney with Oleg Cassini, photographed by Jim Mitchell. > Opposite, clockwise from top left: Oleg Cassini with friends in El Morocco’s Champagne Room; Oleg with Vera Wang at the CFDA’s Party for New Designers in 2005; Princess Irene Galitzine and a guest dine at El Morocco; Oleg with Stan Herman in 2005; Oleg and Igor entertain guests at El Morroco; Oleg Cassini and Dianne Bernhard in 2005.
El Morocco was empty inside. People outside heard the music but there was no way Angelo would let them in. It created a demand and from that night on, people stormed the place. Perona’s pal, Jack Dempsey, came every night, and soon the world was being photographed in El Morocco by the bad boy of society, Jerome Zerbe. Kings and tycoons demanded the number-one booth. (It seemed to always be occupied by Lyndon Johnson, Aristotle Onassis, or Clark Gable.)
J i m Mi tch e s ll (E l M o ro c o ) / Pa tr i c k McM u llan (c on te mp o rar y i m a ge s )
strangers at their tables, joke around, and swap secrets. But Jim Mitchell changed all that for me. He would provide access to El Morocco for as long as it operated as a Café Society nightclub—that is, until the 1970s. And I had been wrong in my precipitous judgment. Jim Mitchell turned out to be just right. He was good-looking in his black tuxedo, well-bred, charming, WASPy—a gent open to learning anything and everything. He had connected emotionally with the old pro John Perona, walking in off the street to present himself with his University of Miami education, as a promotional godsend. Perona loved him. And Perona had opened his famous nightclub on East 54th Street when Prohibition ended in 1933. Once he formulated his blue-and-white zebra-stripe décor with the white plastic palm trees, he announced an opening. That very night, the elegant Angelo, always in white-tie and tails, stood at the front door turning everyone away. In truth,
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This page: Grace Kelly wearing a Cassini design in a publicity shot for To Catch a Thief. Before becoming the Princess of Monoco, Kelly dated Cassini for a year in the 1950s. > Opposite: Igor Cassini blows out birthday candles at El Morocco with Florence Smith, right, and Molly Phipps, in a photograph by Jim Mitchell.
J i m Mi tch e ll (El Mo ro cc o )
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Only the very elegant, social, and extremely secure would request to be seated in El Morocco’s “Siberia,” on the far side of the dance floor. Other than the Smart Set showing off, Siberia was a dumping ground for wannabes and the nouveau riche. The nightclub developed its feuds, its hierarchies, it regulars, and its history. Here, Humphrey Bogart battled a woman over a toy panda, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor posed in paper crowns, and the “swordsmen” of Café Society measured their penis sizes in contests held in the men’s room upstairs. General hilarity ensued both up and downstairs. The winner of the contest was a triumphant man of the world, Porfirio Rubirosa, competing against Baby Pignateri, Melton Berle, Bruce Cabot, Forrest Tucket and New York’s E. Haring “Red” Chandor. One could hear these guys cackling while the rest of us were sitting in the elegant Champagne Room for upstairs dinner.
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Jim Mitchell admitted to me up front that he didn’t know a thing about the world he was entering. “Don’t worry,” I said, vastly amused and feeling superior. “I’ll help you.” But before long, he was doing the helping. He called me every day with news of what happened last night at El Morocco. We soon ran items about this everyday in Cholly Knickerbocker. People in “real” society had once only gone out on Thursday, cook’s night out. Soon they found it was more fun than staying home and Café Society was born. The original Hearst-created Cholly Knickerboker had been an effete, snobby, sniffy dude named Maury Paul. He was the one who dubbed it “Café Society.” Rich people were discovering that they couldn’t just see their names in the press when they were born, married, or died. It was all society, all the time. The masses looked up to them, down on them, and became FA L L 2 0 1 0 /
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riveted with their comings, goings, buying habits, marital affairs, fistfights, and exits in a huff. The so-called upper crust was there to emulate, envy, make fun of, and tear down to size. Soon Jim Mitchell insisted that I come to El Morocco every night for dinner, to observe. This was not a hardship. Perona moved El Morocco to Second Avenue in the fifties but nothing changed. I would show up on Jim’s arm and eat dinner, usually alone. He’d come and go but said he had to wear his tux—his uniform—and stay alert. “I’m on duty!” he’d report, coming to give me tidbits, tell me who was who, and even introduce me to the likes of Gloria Guinness or Hedda Hopper or CZ Guest. The food was great; the champagne was free. Sometimes Jimmy and I closed with the orchestra’s last strain, potted to the gills. Pretty soon, Jim lost his naïve, innocent look. Now he knew everything that was going on in upscale New York. And he “owed” me for helping him, but I “owed” him for my sources. We became a great team. We began to be invited
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places together, to Monaco, for instance, and to Palm Beach and to Newport and to Mexico. The column actually got better and better. More about the actual doings of the upper crust, more inside stuff, more meaningful gossip leading to big business, more of what had actually happened last night in New York and what Cassini had dubbed the “Society of Achievement.” I was speeding along writing about a world I had hardly even dreamed existed. I thought for a minute that it was important. The perks were immense, the attention gratifying. Cassini loved it; it left him free to travel and not to worry so much about Cholly Knickerbocker. He fired Ed Wilcox so that, at times, I was totally on my own, writing the column by myself. It was heady, unrealistic, and actually ridiculous. I remember he said to me one day, “I’m going to Antibes for a month and while I’m gone, you will write about ‘The Most Beautiful Women in International Society.’” He gave me a list of thirty; I knew only Gloria Vanderbilt because she was an acting client of my agent. When I protested that I couldn’t do it, Ghighi said, “Talk to Gloria Schiff. She knows everything. She’ll help you.” So I interviewed the delightful Schiff about the women and I looked them up. The daily deadlines came like bullets but somehow it worked. Seymour Berkson, who was the distant top authority at the New York Journal American, called to congratulate me: “Kid, I know Cassini’s imprint is on it, but everyone knows who wrote this brilliant series.” I thought I was on my way and might, someday, have the column on my own. This was the beginning of five years as a ghost to Igor Cassini, a job I came to adore, enjoy, and eventually lose in a cataclysmic manner when my boss was indicted for being an unregistered agent for a foreign government’s tourism. Igor Cassini had to resign and pay a fine. When I finally tried to get the job on my own, at Igor’s urging, Hearst’s powers that be were kind but dismissed my experience and lack of standing, saying I had no cachet, no image, no name. They told me they were giving the column to Aileen Mehle and would call it Suzy Knickerbocker. She was a beautiful, glamourous, and saucy woman— a fixture herself in some parts of society. So I saw their point. I saw that Lizzie Knickerbocker was not to be. My fate lay elsewhere. u
J i m Mi tch e ll (El Mo ro cc o )/ Pa tr i ck M c Mul la n (C on te mp o rar y )
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This page: Laurie Mickel, Judy Peabody, and Igor Cassini on the dancefloor at El Morocco. > Opposite: Jackie Kennedy during her celebrated trip to Paris, in 1961, wearing an Oleg Cassini suit. > Insets: Oleg Cassini with Zac Posen; with Diane von Furstenberg.
Illusions Of Beauty by
Rachel Corbett
L au re n c e Ki n g P ub li sh i n g
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This page: A 2002 watercolor portrait of Erin Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Connor in a headdress by Stephen Jones for Christian Dior. > Opposite: Bob Peak created this ad for Puritan Sportswear, circa 1965.
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fashion illustrator David Downton met Cate Blanchett at the Dorchester Hotel in London to draw her for the cover of Vogue Australia’s fiftieth-anniversary issue. When the issue hit stands, it surprised many in the fashion world; illustration hasn’t had a significant place in magazines—much less on their covers—since the 1950s. But the issue’s success signaled that the industry had once again grown nostalgic for illustration, a trend it seems to follow every few decades or so. Now, the release of Downton’s new book, Masters of Fashion Illustration, suggests that fashion illustration is back in fashion. The book chronicles the art form’s history, beginning with the turn-of-the-century haute couture paintings by Giovanni Boldini, then called a “social portraitist” rather than a fashion illustrator. The book then moves throughout illustration’s greatest eras: from Erté’s art-deco covers for Harper’s Bazaar during the
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Laurence King Publishing
Last year,
This page: Illustrator and designer George Barbierâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s La Fontaine de Coquillages, 1914. > Opposite: a 2009 Christian Dior illustration.
This page: prolific Vogue contributor Carl Erickson created this rich drawing four years before his death, in 1958. > Opposite: a 2009 illustration of a Chanel ensemble that appeared
Laurence King Publishing
in Vogue China.
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This page: a minimalist Kenneth Paul Block drawing from the mid-1960s. > Opposite: Antonio Lopez captures the 1965 craze for
’20s and ’30s to the “New Graphisme” movement, which intended “to do what photography couldn’t.” It charts illustration’s evolution from reportage to art form, its decline in the 1960s and its subsequent comeback during the glamorous New Wave movement. “Fashion illustration,” Downton writes in the introduction, “deals with the truth of line and the power and the illusion of beauty; complex themes perhaps, but all in a day’s work for these masters of fashion illustration.” In fashion, all trends must come and go, and illustration has fallen victim to its industry’s inherent peril. But, the century-old resonance of true fashion artists and their continual ebb and flow throughout history proves that these masters’ visions of beauty will never go out of style. u
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Laurence King Publishing
“Op and Pop” art.
The Final Turn by
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Georgina Schaeffer
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Librar y of C on gre ss
“He paws fiercely, rejoicing in his strength, and charges into the fray...In frenzied excitement he eats up the ground; he cannot stand still when the trumpet sounds.” This is how the Book of Job describes the horse. It is also the opening narration of the trailer for the new film Secretariat, as spoken by Diane Lane and accompanied by the sound of thundering hooves. When I saw it, I was reduced to tears in less than two minutes. My first experiences at the track were with my uncle “Tiger Jack” Sullivan. Watching his horses race at Belmont was an experience unlike any other. From the moment the horses break from the gate until they take the final turn to head for home, you wouldn’t know if your heart was beating or if you were breathing. All that exists during those minutes is a field of horses running with all of their strength, and it reminds you that, indeed, the old Arabian saying is true: “The horse is God’s gift to mankind.” These are my memories. Here, Q readers share theirs.
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This page: The Benning Race Track opened on April 1, 1890, until Congress banished horse racing in the District in 1908. > Opposite: The historic Saratoga Race Course opened in 1864 and is home to the oldest major thoroughbred horse race in the U.S., the Travers Stakes.
Linda Lane Soper When did you begin going to the track? > I started going to the track to see our horses race or breeze before I could ever legally bet. I loved being on the backside just as much as being in the paddock area, the box, or the winner’s circle. What’s your first track memory? > I loved getting up super early with my dad to watch the horses breeze when everything was fairly quiet—the sun wasn’t up, there would be a thick fog on the ground, and all you could hear were pounding hoofs
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and the horses breathing down the stretch. Where’s your favorite track? > It’s a toss-up between Keeneland and Saratoga. What is your favorite track attire? > A pretty dress with a chic hat. Nothing too over-the-top, but something timeless. What’s your fondest track memory? > In the early ’90s, female jockey Julie Krone had really hit it big. We were at the Derby one day and my dad took me down to the rail to get a closer look (we couldn’t get into the paddock area). As the horses were walking to the gate, I gave Julie a girl-power shout out. I remember her giving me a huge smile and I loved that she had acknowledged me from the crowd. Going to the track or to the sales was always a special father-daughter experience...and still is!
Holly Jaspersen When did you begin going to the track? > I started going as a child with my family because we have a summer home a half hour away from Saratoga. What’s your first track memory? > Checking out the winner’s circle as a child and loving the women’s attire and the horses and jockey’s bright-colored adornments. Where is your favorite track? > Saratoga, hands down.
This page: New Zealand’s Rising Fast became the only horse in history to win the “Spring Grand Slam” (the Melbourne Cup, the Caulfield Cup, and the Cox Plate). > Opposite, clockwise from top left: the horses turn for home at Churchill Downs; a jockey takes a fall; winning jockies; Secretariat breaking from the gate at Belmont; horses parading before a race; a scene from the new film Secretariat, starring Diane Lane as Penny Tweedy.
What is your favorite track attire? > A Lilly Pulitzer dress and an Eric Javits hat. What’s your fondest track memory? > Spending my dad’s sixtieth birthday in a box in Saratoga, drinking champagne with my entire family.
Suzy Biszantz When did you begin going to the track? > As a little girl with my father before I can even remember. What’s your first track memory? > Sitting in our box at Del Mar, asking my dad to bet for me and trying to act grown up! Where is your favorite track? > Historically, Del Mar, where I grew up, but now Saratoga because of the sense of history.
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What is your favorite track attire? > A shift dress and comfortable heels, which are necessary for walking in the paddocks. What’s your fondest track memory? > 1998 at Churchill Down, when my family raced Old Trieste in the Kentucky Derby. I have a three-year-old horse named Perla Wisdom that I bought in 2008. She just broke her maiden at Delaware Downs on September 8th.
Below: Horses on the hills of Lamborn, England. The area is known for British National Hunt racehorse training. Insets from top: a thoroughbred mare with her young foal; jockies in their jodhpurs, boots, and silks head to the barn to mount up. > Opposite: Australian jockey Scobie Breasley was the first person inducted into the Australian Racing Hall of Fame.
Susan Lewis Mortimer What’s your first track memory? > I first went to the track at the 1972 Kentucky Derby, but the Derby was a part of my life long before that. We had betting pools in elementary school! Where is your favorite track? > My favorite track is Keeneland, in Lexington, Kentucky. Open only in April and October, it’s a “Gentleman’s track.” Everyone dressed for the track and there was no P.A. system—you had to watch the race.
Chappy Morris When did you begin going to the track? > Since I was a young boy. My father’s family had the oldest racing colors in continu-
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ous use—all scarlet—and my namesake, Alfred Morris, won the first Belmont stakes, so my brother and I went often. Where is your favorite track? > My favorite track by far is Saratoga. We went every August until my parents died. It is a magical place with all its history and a comfortable “old shoe” feeling. It gives it a delightful let’s-have-fun feeling. What’s your fondest track memory? > The year was 1973 and I was privileged to attend the race the day Secretariat won the Triple Crown by some thirty lengths in world-record time. It was an incredible feat by a noble champion and a moment in sports I will never forget. u
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Pygmalion Revisited by
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Amanda Meigher
There’s a reason Pygmalion is one of the most enduring plays in history. Since George Bernard Shaw first wrote the script in 1916, its theme has been recreated and reinterpreted in countless movies, books, and—let’s face it—most girls’ daydreams. Who doesn’t like to root for the little guy (or, in this case, girl), and finally see her find success and love in the end? In her new novel, The Overnight Socialite, Bridie Clark brings us Pygmalion 2.0. Her heroine, Lucy Jo Ellis, can’t catch a break. Having moved across the country with nothing but a sewing kit and a dream, this Midwesterner has been facing bad and worse luck since arriving in New York. In spite of landing a job with one of the city’s top designers, Nola Sinclair, Lucy Jo’s position as assistant patternmaker has yet to offer any breaks. What she thought would be her entrée into the design world has turns out
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to be nothing more than a cramped spot at a sewing machine in a workshop that reeks of Funyuns and B.O. Enter Wyatt Hayes IV, born with a silver spoon in his mouth and a trust fund the size of a small nation’s treasury. Fancying himself a “serious” anthropologist who hasn’t yet found his niche, Wyatt travels the globe under the guise of “research.” Between expeditions, he finds time to attend parties and be photographed with It-Girl girlfriend, Cornelia Rockman. But after thirty-seven years of being carried through life by his birthright and good looks, Wyatt is growing bored. Worse, he’s feeling outdated. While breeding, culture, and class used to matter, now it’s the wallet, the bling, and the pretty-young-thing on your arm that makes the man, and Wyatt is not impressed. Then, one stormy night, fate intervenes. The Nola Sinclair fashion show turns into Lucy Jo’s worst nightmare, not to mention the site of the most embarrassing runway “incident” the fashion world has seen in years. Lucy Jo is ready to surrender and return to Minnesota. Meanwhile, at the launch party of Townhouse magazine, held at Doubles, Cornelia publicly disses Wyatt. Completely new to feelings of rejection and solitude, Wyatt seeks solace at a bar with his billionaire best friend, to whom he can bemoan the degradation of “well-bred” ladies and gentlemen. What will happen when the paths of our two principal characters cross? For Wyatt, it’s a book deal that will finally legitimize him, but at the expense of others. For Lucy Jo, a chance to realize her dreams of being a “name” in fashion, yet under false pretenses. And, just maybe, there’s a shot at true
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This page, clockwise from top: Bridie Clark (right) with pals Cindy Jamieson and Maggie Katz; Clark’s new novel, The Overnight Socialite; the cover of her previous book, Because She Can. > Opposite: Author Bridie Clark, a former book and magazine editor and co-author of The Gawker Guide to Conquering All Media. For more information, see bridieclark.com.
love for them both. You’ll have to pick up the book to find out. No stranger to the nuances of Manhattan’s social elite, Clark uses her insider perspective to produce delightful characters and a very plausible version of New York society. Although thematically based on Pygmalion, Clark adds new twists and turns, contemporizing the ending, not just the setting of this tale. Yes, we want Lucy Jo to succeed and find love, but Clark shows us that it’s not just the superficial antagonists who have lessons to learn. Indeed, everyone, including Lucy Jo, has some growing up to do. The book is a reminder of why this storyline has resonated for so long: the underdog wins and the girl gets the guy. In the end, and most importantly, it’s our character that defines us as a gentleman ... or the classic “Fair Lady!” u
Beth in the Ombre Dot Silk Twill Bow Shift Dress ($475) and Melissa in the Black and White Scribble Print Wool Knot Dress ($495) from Thread Social.
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A Needle And Thread
Produced By Elizabeth Brown Photographed By Ben Fink Shapiro
In 1999, Beth Blake was asked to find bridesmaid dresses for her sister’s wedding. “I looked and realized there was nothing,” she says. So Beth, then a stylist and former Chanel and Vogue staffer, solved the problem herself: “I had the idea to design bridesmaid dresses that resembled cocktail dresses. Something knee-length or tealength, that wasn’t long and taffeta.” The aisle at her sister’s wedding served as Beth’s runway, showcasing her designs for guests in what would turn out FA L L 2 0 1 0 /
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Melissa Akey / Melissa, dressed in the Metallic Chevron Coat Dress ($595), lives in a Chelsea apartment with her husband. Her home, decorated predominantly in black and white, reflects her clean, modern style. Living in the city encourages this look: “In the Midwest, you’re sheltered in a way. You’re reading about what to wear from magazines, but all that’s available are the clothes in your local mall.” Melissa’s home will always house stacks of magazines, as well as a display of coffee-table books.
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Beth Blake / Beth, dressed in the Lurex Paisley Print Dress ($530), lives in a Tribeca loft with her husband and son. “The greens and mustards and the camel hair curtains give it a ’70s feeling. It’s a warm space; it’s not too precious,” she says. The home is decorated with a folding Lilly Pulitzer chair purchased on Nantucket and a vintage backgammon table. Beth is similarly inspired by the ‘70s when she designs clothing for Thread and Thread Social.
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Left: Thread Social’s most recent collections. Insets: Magenta Polka Dot Esay Chiffon Dress ($545) from the Holiday 2010 collection and Shredded Tulle and Organza Top ($299) with Metallic Chevron Ruffle Skirt ($325) from the Fall 2010 collection. > Opposite: Beth, in the Black and Navy Stripe Cotton Dress ($405), and Melissa, in the Summer Knit Easy Dress with
to be her first fashion show. Within a year, Thread, a line of “un-bridesmaid” bridesmaid dresses, was born to deliver garments that were chic, rather than candy-colored and confectionary. Styles that could be worn, without alteration or embarrassment, after the wedding. With a lively variety of fabrics, hues, and silhouettes, bridesmaids could finally have their fondant, and eat it too. Following an advertisement in Martha Stewart Weddings, Thread expanded and soon earned the admiration of women everywhere—single, engaged, and married. In 2002, Beth teamed up with Melissa Akey, who had a deep knowledge of fashion from her background with Barney’s New York. In 2006, Beth and Melissa introduced Thread Social, a line of well-rounded women’s wear, to supplement Thread. “We wanted to bring the dress back. It needed to be a classic dress, not a trendy dress,” Beth says. Today, the duo dresses everyone from the bachelorette to the bride, the Midwesterner to the Manhattanite in their two brands. As Thread caters to twenty- and thirty-
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something bridesmaids, Thread Social serves a spectrum of customers seeking sophisticated, sleek clothing. “We have girls who are twenty and women who are sixty wearing our Thread Social dresses,” Melissa says. “They always stand out.” The line allows women to transition seamlessly from coffee to cocktails wearing practical, pretty pieces. Beth and Melissa’s success may be attributed to the pleasant commingling of their personal and professional relationships. “We are practically sisters,” Melissa says. They even share similar backgrounds—Beth is from Grosse Pointe, Michigan, and Melissa, a Chicago native, earned a degree from the University of Michigan at Ann Arbor. “There’s a sort of innocence one has, being from the Midwest,” Beth says. “An innocent wholesomeness.” This sensibility is reflected in their designs—always flirtatious, ever demure—with hemlines and necklines that are conservative and graceful. Where their histories vary is in their work experience: “Beth’s background is in editorial, whereas mine is in sales,” Melissa says. “We’re kind of like church and state. She brings her styling eye and I focus on fit, price, and quality.” Beth and Melissa also benefit from a ten-year difference in age, their individual tastes satisfying a broader range of women. Together, the pair creates collaborative collections with pieces that are defined as much by Beth’s vintage inspiration as Melissa’s youthful perspective. This divergence of taste comes especially alive in their Flatiron District showroom, where Beth’s Minnie Riperton and Carly Simon classics mix with Melissa’s Arcade Fire and Jay Z hits. Beth and Melissa will always agree, however, on designing looks that are classic and modern: looks that are timeless. “The best compliment I receive is when people say, ‘I cleaned my closet, and the only items left hanging were Thread Social dresses!’” Beth says. “That’s what Melissa and I strive for.” u
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Bow ($179), work together in their showroom. Shoot Assistant: Sam Tweddell.
Shopping & Champagne by
Elizabeth Meigher
Los Angeles / It was a perfect, balmy L.A. evening as guests excitedly stepped into ARCADE boutique on Melrose Avenue to enjoy a little one-stop shopping, fruity Cointreau cocktails, the well-stocked candy bar, and mingling with friends old and new. ARCADE founder Rochelle Gores Fredston modeled the 1,700-square-foot shopping retreat after nineteenth-century European shopping malls, called “arcades,” where designers would gather to showcase their collections. ARCADE Boutique carries an array of designs from fun casual wear to sexy cocktail and evening attire, featuring hard-to-find designers such as Preen, Barbara Bui, Kaufman Franco, Erdem, and Doo. Ri alongside classics, such as Yigal Azrouel, Mason, and Inhabit. Plus, renowned jeweler Neil Lane created an exclusive jewelry line for ARCADE Boutique, aptly entitled “Neil Lane for ARCADE.” Party-goers had an absolute ball as they shopped and chatted throughout the evening. Few went home empty-handed, and even the boys seemed to enjoy themselves! > This page: Guests shop and mingle around Andrea Trujillo’s A.sweeT. candybar. > Opposite page: Alexis Zimbalist samples the goods.
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Los Angeles / This page: 1. Janice Hoffman, Flo Fulton and a happy guest; 2. Leah Ornstein and Hanley Baxter pause for a photo; 3. Jordan Nemirow, Erik Hodge, and Andrea Trujillo chatting at the party; 4. Bold cocktail rings on display at ARCADE; 5. Lexi Beerman and Leo Hoenighausen peruse the racks; 6. A guest and Katie Hoffman flip through the fashions in Q magazine; 7. Guests enjoyed a little sushi while shopping. > Opposite page: The evenings hostesses, from left to right: Kasey Crown, Elizabeth Meigher, Flo Fulton, Minnie Mortimer, and ARCADE founder Rochelle Gores Fredston.
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Far From Child’s Play by
“To abuse a child is to batter their soul. The New York Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Children seeks to heal this soul.” I became involved with the NYSPCC when a friend invited me to join its Junior Committee in 2005. I knew little about child abuse at the time and had pigeonholed it as occurring only in the most troubled households. I quickly learned nothing could be further from the truth. Child abuse happens everywhere—in impoverished families and in affluent families, in Harlem and in Greenwich. But perhaps the most horrifying truth is that it can be perpetrated by those we know and those closest to us. Child abuse encompasses both physical and sexual abuse, and
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it happens much too often. Right here in New York City, more than 250 reports are made every day. (Just imagine how many incidents go unreported.) It’s hard to believe that it could happen to someone you know, but that’s the reality. You leave your child with a friend who loses his or her temper after a bad day and hits your son, leaving a bruise. Or a trusted teacher crosses the line with an inappropriate touch leaving your little girl feeling anxious and ashamed, and then she’s afraid to talk about it. Sexual fondling and abuse, in most instances, is perpetrated by someone the child knows well, not a stranger. That’s why parents must constantly be on the alert
This page: A child in one of the New York Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Children’s programs, the world’s first child protective agency. Insets: Hell’s Kitchen at the turn of the century, when the NYSPCC was founded, left, NYSPCC founder, Elbridge Thomas Gerry, right. > Opposite: The writer volunteering with children at NYSPCC headquarters.
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This page, clockwise from top: Before-and-after pictures of Mary Ellen Wilson, who was being beaten by her foster mother. A church worker, Etta Wheeler, approached Henry Bergh, founder of the ASPCA for help. He in turn secured the child and won the court case, and helped Wheeler find other philanthropists to found the NYSPCC; one of the early cases of the NYSPCC was identifying two children who had been abducted from their mother on the Titanic. > Opposite: volunteers with “Safe Touch” puppets used for victims of sexual abuse. > Inserts: Members of NYSPCC’s Junior Committee, which raised $136,000 for the trauma program.
to protect their children and report their suspicions to the proper authorities immediately. Many abused children enter adulthood with their lives clouded by guilt, suspicion, depression, and a deep-rooted sense of insecurity. Some of these adults suffer in denial, while others are desperate to seek help, but don’t know where to turn. As we know, support and mental health services can help one recover from an abusive past—and the earlier the better. That’s where the NYSPCC comes in. As the world’s first child protection agency, it responds to the complex needs of abused and neglected children and those involved with their care by providing best practice counseling, legal, and educational services. In its state-of-the-art clinic, expert clinicians provide trauma-focused therapy customized for children who have survived unimaginable abuse. Then, they go a step beyond by teaching their fellow colleagues their treatment techniques so that even more abused children are helped. But the NYSPCC also tries to step in before abuse happens by sharing their prevention resources. About the time that I became involved with the NYSPCC, I saw an episode of Dateline NBC’s “To Catch a Predator” in which the police uncovered a list of men purchasing child pornography online. Guess who was on the list? A pediatrician. You heard me. A pediatrician who took an oath to care for children later used his power to prey on innocent them.
My pessimism was soon replaced with optimism when I learned of the NYSPCC’s Safe Touches program, a sexual abuse prevention workshop. Using puppets and interactive play, the NYSPCC teaches children in kindergarten through third grade in elementary schools throughout New York City about body safety and the difference between recognizing safe and unsafe touches. Children learn how to seek help if they feel unsafe or confused and how to use assertive language to protect them. The child is now armed to protect himself or herself with appropriate communication skills. I only wish this was available when I was a child. Luckily, I was spared from abuse, and I am thankful that I never had to face that pediatrician, but I shiver knowing that many children are not so lucky. Many are hurt and don’t tell their parents either out of fear, shame, or because they’ve been told “it’s a secret.” The Safe Touches workshop equips children to handle these transgressions and also how to prevent them. With the NYSPCC’s help, we have an amazing opportunity to teach children how to protect themselves. In turn, it is our responsibility to teach our own children, and to help the NYSPCC further its mission to protect children.
Although prosecuting those who harm children is best left to the authorities, I am happy to play a role by supporting the NYSPCC. In 2006, I co-chaired the Junior Committee’s annual fund-raiser for the first time and have served as its president since then. The Junior Committee has donated its proceeds, amounting to $136,000 over the past five years, to the NYSPCC’s trauma-recovery program. And every year, the board of directors hosts a fall gala, the proceeds of which are donated to the NYSPCC. This year, the gala will be held on November 18, at The Plaza. I can’t help but feel elated knowing that we are helping restore tortured souls child by child. You can, too. But you also have the opportunity to prevent abuse. As parents, you can’t be with your child every minute of the day to protect them from predators. But you can educate yourselves and give your children the tools they need to protect themselves when on their own. As the NYSPCC reminds us through its daily work, your child and every child deserves a mind filled with peace, a heart filled with love, and a body filled with strength. u For more information on the New York Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Children, visit nyspcc.org. For more on NYSPCC’s upcoming gala, email bdarnell@hgnyc.com. FA L L 2 0 1 0 /
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Carrying Kotur st yled and written by
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photographed by
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In the comfortable Upper East Side apartment of Sheila Camera Kotur, it’s as if everything has changed, yet nothing’s changed at all. There are hand-painted Louis XVI armchairs that Sheila finished with her own brush, hand-painted pillows on the billowy sofa, trompe-l’oeil frescoes on the walls and ceiling. There are also happy pictures of a family—mother, father, two daughters—that, together with the exclusively personal and hand-painted art work everywhere, makes the eclectic house and décor feel so much like a home. Sheila, with a perfectly coiffed dark-brown bob that flops alongside her as she scuttles from room to room to fetch draw-
This page: Fiona Kotur Marin photographed in her motherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s apartment. > Opposite, from top: Evening clutches from the latest KOTUR collection beside sculptures from Marinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s college days; a drawing by Sheila Camera Kotur.
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This page, from left: The Wallace bag from the KOTUR Fall-Winter 2010 collection, in gold leaf haircalf, by Fiona Kotur Marin, on a chair that was hand-painted by Sheila Camera Kotur; a drawing by Sheila Camera Kotur for the Fall-Winter collection. > Opposite page: Mother and daughter team plan and discuss the next collection’s visual campaign.
ing paper and pencils, is the picture of the excited mother, eager for her daughter’s return home. And when that daughter, Fiona Kotur Marin, does return, Sheila begins to beam. “Shall I get my drawing board?” she asks. Fiona, smiling through her patricianly pursed lips, shakes her long, straight blonde hair up and down and says, “Yes, let’s get to work!” Fiona, who has just flown in from Hong Kong, where she now resides, has joined her mother for a creative-marketing meeting for the KOTUR LTD. handbag line that she launched in 2004. Fiona, the creator of the bags themselves, has tapped into her mother’s painterly past and design sense, and commissions Sheila, a one-time designer for Christian Dior, to illustrate her bags. Today, as Fiona explains the bags slated for production, Sheila starts drawing a woman walking down the street. Fiona leans in to see what’s unfolding. At first, it looks like a dog walker coming to life, with long arms and leashes tugging everywhere from her hands. “No, no,” Sheila laughs, “just wait.” Soon, it becomes clear that this is no ordinary dog walker, but a fashionable lady strolling, say, Madison Avenue. And those are no dogs on her leashes, but handbags! “I always loved my mother’s drawings,”
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Fiona tells me, “And I am delighted she is lending her style, her creativity, and her chic as the visual voice of KOTUR.” That they’ve chosen to meet in the apartment in which Fiona was raised, along with her sister, Vogue’s Alexandra Kotur, is only fitting. It was here that Sheila, along with her late husband, Robert Kotur, raised her daughters with a deep sense of art, tradition, and innovation. “I grew up,” Fiona says, “in a household that revered beauty and creativity.” That emphasis on the creative certainly helped guide the young Fiona. A graduate of Chapin, Fiona enrolled in Wellesley College, where she earned an art degree. She went on to study at Yale and at Parsons School of Design. After school, she landed her first job at Ralph Lauren, where she oversaw the design of handbags, luggage, hats, and jewelry. In 1995, she went on to work for Old Navy, a seven-year tenure that culminated in a position as vice president of the children’s and baby’s divisions. In 2000, Fiona married financier Todd Marin, and, in 2002, the couple and their growing family (today they have four young boys) relocated to Hong Kong, where Fiona was able to help former Ralph Lauren colleague Tory Burch on the development
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This page: A drawing by Sheila Camera Kotur for the current Fall-Winter collection of KOTUR bags. > Opposite page: The Kotur women as photographed by Joshua Bright. Mother and daughters alike have an instrinsic artistic and fashion sense. From left: Sheila Camera Kotur, Alexandra Kotur, and Fiona Kotur Marin, who is the founder of KOTUR LTD.
of Burch’s budding fashion line. Along the way, Fiona was inspired by the sources she was discovering in Asia, and eventually stumbled upon a trove of vintage brocades that were from a small mill owned by a ninety-year-old craftsman. These brocades became the inspiration for her first collection of handbags, which she launched in 2004. Fiona fashioned a line of retro-glam brocade clutches, which were immediately picked up by retailers like Bergdorf Goodman and Scoop in New York, Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong, and Browns in London. “I have always had a passion for handbags, so no one was surprised when I launched my line,” Kotur says. “I have been collecting bags for over twenty years, from flea markets and antique shops.” Her bags have expanded from that first brocade collection into an impressive line of clutches, daybags, totes, and satchels, in everything from fabrics and naturals to snakeskins and maille weaves. They are carried by some of the world’s most fashionable women, from private society ladies to international film stars, and they fall within a reasonable price range, from $350 to about $2,000. There is an emphasis on the old-school ladylike appeal, but also on “transition” bags, which can be carried everywhere, for any setting, with any outfit. “I love high-low,” Fiona explains, “I think that this is how best to shop and dress nowadays, and also how to structure your life and live it to its fullest.” u
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For many fashion houses, Fashion’s Night Out (the brain child of Vogue, NYC & Co., and the CFDA) is a national, even an international, event. Carolina Herrera was no exception, as the legendary designer celebrated the evening coastto-coast at her stylish New York City flagship, as well as her hot Hollywood store. And perhaps most exciting was the grand opening of her new Madison Avenue CH boutique. Carved into the coffering of her new shop’s ceilings is her “CH” monogram. Leave it to Carolina to always keep an eye on those brilliant details!
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1. Lauren Remington Platt; 2. Derek Blasberg; 3. Flo Fulton; 4. Amy Fine Collins; 5. Patricia Lansing and Carolina Herrera Baez; 6. Emma Snowdon Jones; 7. Anna Wintour and Carolina Herrera.
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At the beginning of August, the Aspen Art Museumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sixth-annual gala, artCRUSH 2010, hosted more than 350 of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top art collectors, wine connoisseurs, artists, gallery owners, curators, celebrities, and global business leaders in Colorado. This year, honoree Marilyn Minter was presented the 2010 Aspen Award for Art. The final event of the jam packed three-day schedule was the trendy afterpartyCRUSH, held on August 6th at Syzygy City. D.J. Samantha Ronson performed as guests drank champagne and mingled one last time before departing the resort town.
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1. Amanda and Glenn Fuhrman; 2. David Lambert; 3. Anne Pasternack, Dana Farouki and Todd Bishop; 4. Samantha Ronson; 5. Jonathan and Natalie Esfondi with David Fox; 6. Rachel Stockman, Jennifer Stockman, Pamela and Jordan Sanders and Marilyn Fields; 7. Amy Phelan and Samantha Ronson.
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The last weekend in July, Toby Tucker, former fashion market director of In Style magazine, debuted her long-awaited line of women’s golf apparel, the Toby Tucker Golf Collection, with a fashion show at the beautiful Bridge Golf Club on Long Island. Her feminine and sporty designs—wearable both on and off the links—were displayed by models strutting down an outdoor runway overlooking the bay. The weather was perfect for dozens of guests to chat, sip summer cocktails, and watch the sun set over the picturesque landscape of the golf club.
1. Runway; 2. Jake Silverman and Matt Toomey with Laura and Greg Ginsberg; 3. Toby Tucker and sons; 4. Darlene, left, and Jason Liebman with Thorn and Tatiana Perkin; 5. Liz Walker and Steven Butensky; 6. Melanie Fascitelli and Julie Mulligan; 7. Gigi Stone and Alina Cho.
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The National Museum of Thoroughbred Racing and Hall of Fame’s Annual Ball is considered the Saratoga season’s premier social event—attracting the “who’s who” of the American and international racing community. Everyone seemed to have an absolute ball at this year, as guests danced the night away to The Bob Hardwick Sound Sensation. Partaking in the festivities: Chris and Binkie Orthwein, chairman Beverly Steinman, Jamie Figg, museum director Joe Aulisi and his wife, Jill, museum president Stella Thayer and her husband, Bronson, plus Webb Egerton and Matthew Firestone, and many others!
1. Webb Egerton and Matthew Firestone; 2. Stella and Bronson Thayer; 3. Bob Hardwick; 4. Christopher and Binkie Orthwein; 5. Joe and Jill Aulisi; 6. Nancy Amling, Peter Harris and Kate Deming; 7. Leverett Miller and Beverly Steinman; 8. Lee Robinson and Penelope Miller.
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Late this past summer, the Endangered Species Coalition held the “Party for the Pelicans.” This fund-raiser was held at The Wooly for animals affected by the recent oil spill in the Gulf. The event’s attendees were among those who made last year’s benefit the most successful in the organization’s more than twenty-five-year history. The night included dancing and a silent auction featuring items donated by different co-hosts: a brooch from Waris Ahluwalia’s House of Waris, a custom suit designed by Adam Kimmel, and surfing lessons from Tom Sachs.
1. Dree Hemingway and Lily Seidler; 2. Leda Huta, Julia Nasser, Carlton DeWoody, Arden Wohl, Tom Sachs and Sarah Hoover; 3. Karen Erickson and Yigal Azrouël; 4. Adam Kimmel, Leelee Sobieski and Kyle DeWoody; 5. Waris Ahluwalia; 6. Matt Feig and Amy Wicks; 7. Johan Sorensen and Amanda Hearst; 8. Martabel Wasserman and Cat Ardeus.
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Saratoga
The National Museum of Thoroughbred Racing and Hall of Fame’s Annual Ball is considered the Saratoga season’s premier social event—attracting the “who’s who” of the American and international racing community. Everyone seemed to have an absolute ball at this year, as guests danced the night away to The Bob Hardwick Sound Sensation. Partaking in the festivities: Chris and Binkie Orthwein, chairman Beverly Steinman, Jamie Figg, museum director Joe Aulisi and his wife, Jill, museum president Stella Thayer and her husband, Bronson, plus Webb Egerton and Matthew Firestone, and many others!
1. Webb Egerton and Matthew Firestone; 2. Stella and Bronson Thayer; 3. Bob Hardwick; 4. Christopher and Binkie Orthwein; 5. Joe and Jill Aulisi; 6. Nancy Amling, Peter Harris and Kate Deming; 7. Leverett Miller and Beverly Steinman; 8. Lee Robinson and Penelope Miller.
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PATR I C K M C M ULL AN
New York City
Late this past summer, the Endangered Species Coalition held the “Party for the Pelicans.” This fund-raiser was held at The Wooly for animals affected by the recent oil spill in the Gulf. The event’s attendees were among those who made last year’s benefit the most successful in the organization’s more than twenty-five-year history. The night included dancing and a silent auction featuring items donated by different co-hosts: a brooch from Waris Ahluwalia’s House of Waris, a custom suit designed by Adam Kimmel, and surfing lessons from Tom Sachs.
1. Dree Hemingway and Lily Seidler; 2. Leda Huta, Julia Nasser, Carlton DeWoody, Arden Wohl, Tom Sachs and Sarah Hoover; 3. Karen Erickson and Yigal Azrouël; 4. Adam Kimmel, Leelee Sobieski and Kyle DeWoody; 5. Waris Ahluwalia; 6. Matt Feig and Amy Wicks; 7. Johan Sorensen and Amanda Hearst; 8. Martabel Wasserman and Cat Ardeus.
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Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L
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BEAUTY
The Secrets Of Youth The signs of aging take place all over our bodies and they vary from person to person. Sometimes it’s liver-spotted hands that reveal an otherwise youthful-looking woman’s age. Sometimes it’s gray-toned teeth. To prevent the myriad ways our bodies betray our age, Q spoke with three industry leaders from different fields—a dentist, a plastic surgeon, and an aesthetician—on how to conceal the top aging giveaways. Sarah Swanson, aesthetician sarahswansonskincare.com What are the most common complaints you hear from clients about aging? The most frequent concerns are hyperpigmentation, for which we usually use lasers and creams (hydroquinone), and age-related changes, including laxity around the eye area and smile lines. For these I recommend eMatrix and, if needed, a combination of Botox and fillers. What’s the most cutting-edge aging treatment on the market now? By far, the new eMatrix sublative skin rejuvenation is the most cutting-edge technology available today. Finally there’s a way to deliver fractional energy under the skin to produce collagen and elastins that prevent and treat fine lines, wrinkles, and scars. This is accomplished with minimal redness and no downtime. Treatments can be done on your lunch hour! How can we stop aging before it starts? First, bar soap is for your hands, not your face. You need a pHbalanced cleanser that is appropriate for your skin. Next, eye cream is critical in combatting crow’s feet, and in your twenties, you should incorporate vitamin C in to your daily skincare routine. My favorite is Obagi’s vitamin C-rich CRX system. By our thirties, most of us are ready to use Retin A, along with noninvasive laser treatments. Going into your forties, maintenance is the key to keeping the fountain of youth flowing! Take care of your skin today and there will be less to turn around tomorrow.
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This page: Dr. Norman Rowe in the operating room. > Opposite: Sarah Swanson says Vitamin C is vital in the battle against aging. Get high doses of the age-defying nutrient with the CRX line from Obagi.
5 p e ta lp ro d uct i o n s. co m (Sa ra h Sw a ns o n )
Dr. Norman Rowe, M.D. normanrowemd.com What changes are you seeing in the field of plastic surgery today? There are fewer cases being done, even before the economy trouble. A lot of it has to do with the fact that with all the alternatives on the market people aren’t as willing to do the big procedures. If you get enough Botox, you can look like you’ve had a face lift, at least for the short-term. You’ll be putting off the need for surgery. It’s a new thought process in plastic surgery—what can you do without surgery? We’ve gone from scalpels to needles. Botox isn’t just for the forehead anymore. What new ways are you using it? I put botox in the scalp to raise brows. I put it in the chin for people with short chins, in the neck for bands, dotted along the upper eyebrows. You can use it to lower the lip of people who have gummy smiles. What mistakes do plastic-surgery patients make? Sometimes a patient wants bigger and bigger. I don’t have to do it too often, but I’ll say no if a patient wants a face lift too early. A big one is lipo; people want to be tight, tight, tight, but the skin often hangs afterward. The most common filler for twentysomethings is lip injection, which I do, but I won’t inject in the red part of the lip—that’s how you get that Daffy Duck look. I do it in the white line for definition, shape, and a nice cupid’s bow.
Jennifer Jablow, D.D.S. doctorjablow.com How do teeth reveal a person’s age? The teeth act as a holder for the vertical height in your face. As you lose that, the skin drapes looser and the lips will collapse inward. This is often the result of physical wear, when teeth change shape from grinding or bad habits, such as chewing on ice or fingernails or brushing with a toothbrush without soft bristles. Then there’s chemical wear, which occurs from consuming acidic foods and drinks, or from acid reflux. This contributes to a loss of glossiness and the teeth’s ability to reflect light. And, of course, there’s tooth discoloration. Gray teeth are a result of thinning enamel; yellow are usually a result of “life stains.” Teeth have pores like skin and we are constantly taking up stain. How often do you see patients who grind without knowing it? More often than not. A lot of dentists do not actively diagnosis this and it can be a big surprise to the patient when I show them the evidence of wear and chipping. What are a few at-home ways to prevent these signs of aging? Use an at home whitening system to lift the “life stains.” My system, IntelliWHiTE, is very gentle, yet very effective. For upkeep, use a sonic toothbrush and a whitening toothpaste to fight the superficial stains before they set. For worn teeth, get a nightguard made! For mild chipping in the front, some bonding can be added. Anything larger requires veneers or crowns. u
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BEAUTY FRAGRANCE
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1. claudia schiffer Often called the German Brigitte Bardot, Schiffer’s smoldering beauty embodies the rich, irresistible autumn fragrances of this fall. 2. chantecaille Kalimantan blends exotic incense, sandalwood, and bergamot for a warm, woodsy finish. $175. 3. creed Inspired by Napoleon, Aventus for men is a bold combination of scents—Blackcurrent from Corsica, Napoleon Roses, Spanish oak moss—that all draw from Napoleon’s life and travels. $240. 4. clive christian The launch of the sensual new “C” (available for men and women) is the brand’s first fragrance release in ten years. $375. 5. hermÈs The playful Eau Claire des Merveilles will lighten up a cool autumn day with its powder, vanilla, and delicate floral notes. $116. 6. bliss This green and citrusy eau de toilette is like a trip to the spa—clean, refreshing, and revitalizing. $54. 7. by kilian Seductive Indian jasmine is at the heart of Love and Tears, Surrender. $225.
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Take a cue from the legendary makeup artist, famous for transforming Shirley McClaine into a geisha for 1964’s My Geisha, and take pleasure in the season’s most luxurious beauty offerings. 2. clÉ de peau These five eye-color quads are as sparkling and lustrous as the jewels that inspired them. $80. 3. chanel The Himalayan golden flower is the secret behind the detoxifying and anti-aging Sublimage Essential Revitalizing Concentrate. $425. 4. bulgari The anti-oxidizing Source Defense Serum protects and hydrates the skin. $190. 5. burberry The fashion house’s first-ever beauty launch reflects the brand’s classic style, and this Lip Glow is as sleek and timeless as a Burberry trench. $27. 6. kimara ahnert The Upper East Side (and now Greenwich) beauty queen introduces the perfectly autumnal Penny eye liner, $20, and smudge-proof brow definer, $26. 7. la prairie The lightweight Cellular Radiance Emulsion brightens the skin with reflective quartz crystals. $425. 1. shu uemura
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1 Whether you’re a python or a satin clutch kind of girl, a coraland-saphhire or a drop-diamond earring type of lady, there’s no better time for dressing up than at night. This fall, pull out all the stops and put your evening looks together by taking a cue from our pages. 1. JULIE ANDREWS was the picture of a fair lady while attending the New York premier The Sound of Music (she won the Academy Award for her performance in the film). We started humming “A Few of My Favorite Things” while selecting these evening essentials. And who is to say a fox fur clutch isn’t essential? 2. judith leiber The Sevilla soft crystal trapezoidal clutch with coiled top strap option in Cosmo Jet; $2,995. 3. Alberta Ferretti Jewelry isn’t necessary (though it’s still nice) for this chiffon gown with crystal and metal embroidery; $7,115. 4. Bulgari From the High Jewelry Collection at the house of Bulgari: earrings in 18-kt. yellow gold with diamonds, corals, and sapphires; price upon request. 5. Sang a The Ritz natural fox fur clutch is a great touch even without a stole; $1,495.
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2 If you were to look up “bombshell” in the dictionary, it might very well be illustrated by this image of Marilyn Monroe (and, if not, it ought to be). In this publicity photo for the movie Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, Monroe certainly proves that diamonds (not to mention cleavage) are a girl’s best friend. Whether gentlemen really do prefer blondes is up for debate, but after combing the luxurious looks for evening this season, one thing’s for certain: women prefer golds, and lots of them, from yellow diamonds to goldtoned heels from master Manolo Blahnik. Diamonds may be a girl’s best friend, but we’ve always found gold to be quite a confidant. 2. vbh The Chastity bag, made of python, is more ferocious than chaste; $2,300. 3. manolo blahnik Walk in style in the embellished Doge shoe; $935. 4. marchesa This strapless silk dupioni embroidered column gown is from Marchesa’s Resort 2011 collection; $7,500. 5. Tiffany & co. The diamond speaks for itself with Elsa Peretti’s Diamonds by the Yard Pendant; price upon request. 1. marilyn monroe
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1 2 with her hair pulled neatly away from her fresh face, is every bit the classic masterpiece as the canvas she is standing in front of. Hepburn had the luxury of wearing, almost exclusively, the designs of Hubert de Givenchy. Modern New York women are just as lucky to have Carolina Herrera as their Madison Avenue go-to designer for classic evening looks. When emulating this look, don’t be scared to add a little razzle-dazzle with your accessories, starting at your toes. 2. jimmy choo The Nina bag, embellished with stones, is a starry silver of a clutch; $975. 3. kate spade Consider one of Kate Spade’s newest heels, the Charm shoe, a disco ball for your feet. Dressed up with a sweet bow at the toe, the Charm features a four-inch heel and is made in Italy; $325. 4. carolina herrera From Carolina Herrera’s Resort 2011 collection comes this blossom pink and cerise textured organza three-tiered gown. 5. van cleef & Arpels The Magic Alhambra 3 motif earrings, which are set in 18-kt. white gold with pavé diamonds, are a statement all their own; $34,400.
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1. bette davis In the romantic 1933 comedy Ex-Lady, Bette Davis plays a commerical artist who believes that marriage spoils love. At one moment in the film, while in the silk evening dress here, she turns to warn Gene Raymond, “Better be careful. At school I was known as the athletic type.” Though it may be hard to believe that the beautiful Davis was ever the tomboy jock, we wouldn’t disbelieve it if she could run a mile in these killer Roger Vivier heels. 2. Roger vivier The Balmoral shoe in black satin with crystal embellishments; $1,595. 3. Asprey Ribbon earrings set in white gold with four emerald-cut rubellites and round brilliant-cut pavé diamonds; $15,950. 4. Dennis basso Dennis Basso, known for his extravagent furs, also knows something about sleek evening looks; he sent this evergreen sequin dress down the fall runway; $14,000. 5. ralph lauren Satin bow evening bag with smoky quartz crystals; $1,495.
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SHOPPING INDEX
B > Bally: 212.751.9082 or bally.com. > Barneys New York: 888.222.7639 or barneys.com. > Bergdorf Goodman: 888.774.2424 or bergdorfgoodman.com. > Bliss: 877.862.5477 or blissworld.com. > Bloomingdale’s: 800.777.0000 or bloomingdales.com. > Bulgari: 800.BVGLARI or bulgari.com. > Burberry: 800.284.8480 or burberry.com. > By Kilian: At Bergdorf Goodman, 212.753.7300 or bykilian.com.
C > Calvin Klein: 212.292.9000 or calvinklein.com. > Carolina Herrera: 212.249.6552 or carolinaherrera.com. > Cartier: 800.CARTIER or cartier.com. > Celine: 212.486.9700 or celine.com. > Chanel: 800.550.0005 or chanel.com. > Chantecaille: 212.343.3614 or chantecaille.com. > Chloé: 212.717.8220 or chloe.com. > Chopard: 212.218.7222 or chopard.com. > Christian Dior: 212.931.2950 or dior.com. > Christian Louboutin: 212.396.1884 or christianlouboutin.com. > Clé de Peau: 212.988.7816 or cledepeau-beaute.com. > Clive Christian: 212.935.5800 or clive.com. > Creed: 212.439.7777 or creedboutique.com.
Fall is all about colorful leaves, cool days, and, yes, re-stocking your wardrobe with the latest trends. If the abreviated shifts, sky-high boots, camel separates, and fur frills from our market pages are at the top of your list, check here for where to shop for them (be it in-store or online). Need more fall fashion? Join the Quest and Q pages on Facebook for the latest on this season’s trends, or follow our blog at questmag.wordpress.com. Happy shopping!
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> Cynthia Rowley: 212.242.0847 or cynthiarowley.com.
D > David Yurman: 877.908.1177 or davidyurman.com.
> Akris: 212.717.1170 or akris.ch.
> Dennis Basso: 212.794.4500 or dennisbasso.com.
> Alberta Ferretti: 310.652.9000 or albertaferretti.com.
> Domenico Vacca: 212.421.8902 or domenicovacca.com.
> Anne Fontaine: 866.423.0367 or annefontaine.com.
> Douglas Hannant: At The Shops at The Plaza,
> Asprey: 212.688.1811 or asprey.com.
212.872.1701, or douglashannant.com.
> Astrophel & Stella: 646.825.1646 or astrophelandstella.com.
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> Audemars Piguet: 212.758.8400 or
> Elie Tahari: 212.334.4441 or elietahari.com.
audemarspiguet.com.
> Etro: 212.315.0623 or etro.com.
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> Salvatore Ferragamo: 866.908.1188 or
> Façonnable: 212.319.0111 or faconnable.com.
> Manolo Blahnik: 212.582.3007 or
ferragamo.com.
manoloblahnik.com.
> Sang A: 212.564.4433 or sanga.com.
> Marc Jacobs: 212.343.1490 or marcjacobs.com.
> Sephora: 877.SEPHORA or sephora.com.
> Gryphon: 212.764.3059 or gryphon-ny.com.
> Marco Bicego: At Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth
> Sergio Rossi: 212.956.3304 or sergiorossi.com.
> Gucci: 877.482.2430 or gucci.com.
Avenue, 877.551.SAKS, or saks.com.
> Shoshanna: 212.719.3601 or shoshanna.com.
> Marchesa: At Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth
> Simon Spurr: At Bloomingdale’s.
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Avenue, 877.551.SAKS, or saks.com.
> Halston: 212.282.1200 or halston.com.
> Max Mara: 212.879.6100 or maxmara.com.
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> Harry Winston: 800.988.4110 or harrywinston.com.
> Michael Bastian: At Bergdorf Goodman Men’s,
> T. Anthony: 212.750.9797 or tanthony.com.
> Hermès: 800.441.4488 or hermes.com.
212.753.4300, or michaelbastianny.com.
> Theory: 877.242.3317. or theory.com.
> Hunter Boot: Limelight Marketplace, 212.359.5507,
> Michael Kors: 212.452.4685 or michaelkors.com.
> Thread: 212.414.8844 or threaddesign.com.
or hunterboot.com.
> Mikimoto: 212.457.4600 or mikimotoamerica.com.
> Thread Social: 212.414.8844 or
> Milly: 212.921.7800 or millyny.com.
social.threaddesign.com.
> Minnie Mortimer: 310.476.5438 or
> Tibi: 212.966.3773 or tibi.com.
> Intermix: 212.741.5075 or intermixonline.com.
minniemortimer.com.
> Tiffany & Co.: 561.659.6090 or tiffany.com.
> Ippolita: At Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue,
> Miu Miu: 212.249.9660 or miumiu.com.
> Tod’s: 212.644.5945 or tods.com.
I 212.868.3808, or ippolita.com.
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O > Oscar de la Renta: 888.782.6357 or
> Tommy Hilfiger: 212.223.1824 or tommy.com. > Tory Burch: 866.480.TORY or toryburch.com.
> J. Crew: 800.562.0258 or jcrew.com.
oscardelarenta.com.
> J. Mendel: 212.832.5830 or jmendel.com.
> Ovadia & Sons: ovadiaandsons.com.
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> J. Press: 888.7.JPRESS or jpressonline.com.
> Oleg Cassini: 212.753.7540 or olegcassini.com.
> Valentino: 212.772.6969 or valentino.com.
> Jimmy Choo: 866.JCHOO.US or jimmychoo.com. > Judith Leiber: 212.223.2999 or judithleiber.com.
K > Kimara Ahnert: 212.452.4252 or kimara.com.
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> Van Cleef & Arpels: 877.VANCLEEF or vancleef-arpels.com.
> Persol: ILORI, 212.226.8276, or iloristyle.com.
> VBH: 212.717.9800 or vbh-luxury.com.
> Prada: 888.977.1900 or prada.com.
> Vera Wang: 212.628.9898 or verawangonweddings.com.
> Kotur: 866.744.7473 or koturltd.com.
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> Kwiat: 212.725.7777 or kwiat.com.
> Ralph Lauren: 888.475.7674 or ralphlauren.com.
> Vilebrequin: 212.546.9220 or
> Kate Spade: 212.274.1991 or katespade.com.
> Rag & Bone: 212.219.2204 or rag-bone.com.
vilebrequin.com.
> Roberto Cavalli: 212.755.7722 or
> Vince: 212.924.0370 or vince.com.
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> Versace: 212.317.0224 or versace.com.
> La Prairie: 877.527.7722 or laprairie.com.
> Roger Vivier: 212.861.5371 or rogervivier.com.
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> Leviev: 877.4.LEVIEV or leviev.com.
> Ruby Kobo: At Bergdorf Goodman, 212.753.7300, or
> Wempe: 212.397.9000 or wempe.com.
> Lia Sophia: 800.487.3323 or liasophia.com.
rubykobo.com.
> Lilly Pulitzer: 888.PB.LILLY or lillypulitzer.com.
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> Louis Vuitton: 866.VUITTON or vuitton.com.
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> Luca Luca: 212.755.2444 or
> Saks Fifth Avenue: 877.551.SAKS or
> Yigal Azrouël: 212.302.3310 or
lucaluca.com.
saksfifthavenue.com.
yigal-azrouel.com.
> Yves Saint Laurent: 212.832.7100 or ysl.com.
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Favorite Halloween Costumes 1. Valeria fox, associate art director Halloween is a night to put on some horns and raise a little hell. 2. Georgina Schaeffer, executive editor One year in college I went as Holly Golightly—right down to the paper coffee cup, which served as a great handbag. 3. elizabeth meigher, Q editor This photo’s from a fun Halloween visiting Jojo at Harvard Business School. I was a cop, she was...well, we can’t remember! 4. OLIVER AMES, INTERN I grew up for a time in Lindfield, England, and was fascinated by Basil from Fawlty Towers. While I could never grow the requisite mustache, I did recently invest in one. 5. JAMES STOFFEL, CREATIVE DIRECTOR Each Halloween, I look forward to my sister’s pictures of her homemade costumes. This one of Homer and Marge tops my list! 6. ELIZABETH BROWN, ASSOCIATE EDITOR I once dressed up as Amy Winehouse and applied temporary tattoos all over my arms. 7. S. CHRISTOPHER MEIGHER, chairman and c.e.o. Michael Brooks went as a conehead and I went as Joe DiMaggio’s angel. 8. daniel Cappello, fashion editor Friends like to joke that I bear a resemblance to the actor Zachary Quinto, so this year I might cast myself as him playing Spock. 9. rACHEL CORBETT, SENIOR EDITOR As a young girl, I wanted to go as a princess every Halloween.
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ApArTMEnT On CEnTrAl pArk WEST DESIgnED AnD DECOrATED by WADIA ASSOCIATES
RESIDENTIAL DESIGN ~ INTERIOR DESIGN AND DECORATION ~ CONSTRUCTION MANAGEMENT (203) 966-0048 ~ WADIAASSOCIATES.COM
They all say sherle Wagner. Which one says you
gal nauer of gnarchitects chose classic sherle Wagner in white and gold for the legendary Plaza hotel. sherle Wagner makes the statement. choose the one that says you.
212-758-3300 | sherlewagner.com