Q Spring 2014 by QUEST Magazine

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E SPRING ISSUE 2014 > $5.00

SPRING CLASSICS

LAUREN HUTTON PHOTOGRAPHED BY GIANNI PENATI, 1968

The mini Ricky

F O R

P R I V A T E

8 8 8

A P P O I N T M E N T S :

M A D I S O N

A V E N U E

8 8 8 . 4 7 5 . 7 6 74

N E W

Y O R K

3 0 0

R A L P H L A U R E N C O L L E C T I O N . C O M W O R T H

A V E N U E

P A L M

B E A C H

RALPH LAUREN Collection

CAROLINAHERRERA.COM

888.530.7660

6 2 5 M A D I S O N AV E N U E

6 7 5 5 T H AV E N U E

118 SPRING STREET

T H E S H O P S AT C O L U M B U S C I R C L E

STUARTWEITZMAN.COM

2 1 5 1 B R O A D WAY

LAPERLA.COM

Seamlessly joined strands of 18k rose gold combine to form the Helioro ring. The rings range from classically simple to full pavĂŠ set diamonds, from $1,865. Also available are the Helioro Pendants on La Catena necklace or on a silk cord, from $3,745.

In our hands, a jewel becomes something unique. Eternity, for instance. Helioro BY KIM

The perfect symbiosis of artistry and skill. At the Wempe studio in Schwäbisch Gmünd, Kim-Eva Wempe has worked on a shared vision with creative director, Catherine Plouchard, and a top-ranking team since 1999. The results speak for themselves: magical jewels that keep pace with the spirit of the times to become established international modern classics. The finishing touch: perfection is in the detail

Valuable assets, precious emotions. Fine gold is transformed into heart-stirring jewellery that looks good and feels good – jewellery that is striking without being loud. This jewellery is freshly conceived, yet so familiar that it seems to have existed forever. Jewellery BY KIM epitomises a universal and unmistakable design language that is understood by women all over the world. Ready for casting: 18-carat rose gold

Formula for eternity. Helioro owes its name to ‘Helios,’ the Greek sun god, and ‘oro,’ the Italian word for gold – and as an embodiment of innovation, it cannot fail to impress. Manufactured by a technically sophisticated process, Helioro BY KIM represents perfection of the goldsmith’s art. Its complex structure unites nine gold strands, apparently infinite sunbeams creating a unique symbol of eternity.

Helioro - the film

Tangible icon: Helioro BY KIM

700 fifth avenue & 55th street • new york exquisite timepieces & jewelry • established 1878 • 212.397.9000 at the best addresses in germany, and in london, paris, madrid, vienna, beijing and new york open sundays 12 to 5

marinab.com

c a r dan sautoir 18kt gold, semi-precious stones & cultured pearls

30 east 57th street, new york, ny

212.644.1155

BRING YOUR FAMILY TO THE DOMINICAN’S NEW REPUBLIC OF LUXURY. Legend tells of a resort in the Antilles. Where the games never end. And neither do the rewards. Where vacation villas are fashioned from dreams and planted by the sea. And families find infinite pleasure in playing real games together – with clubs, racquets, sails and mallets. No video, no boards. For those in pursuit of the sporting life.

[ BOOK A VILLA AND SAVE $500 500 PLUS RECEIVE A $200 200 SPORT CREDIT. ]

casadecampo.com.do

ROBERTOCOIN.COM

1-800-853-5958

P OIS MOI COLLECTION

Premier PremierSales SalesGroup, Group,Inc. Inc.a aLicensed LicensedReal RealEstate EstateBroker Brokeris isthe theExclusive ExclusiveSales SalesAgent. Agent.· ONE · ONESotheby’s Sotheby’sInternational InternationalRealty, Realty,Global GlobalMarketing MarketingPartner. Partner.The TheRitz-Carlton Ritz-CarltonResidences, Residences,Miami MiamiBeach Beachare arenot not owned, owned, developed developed oror sold sold by The The Ritz-Carlton Ritz-Carlton Hotel Hotel Company, Company, L.L.C. L.L.C. oror itsits affi affi liates liates (“Ritz-Carlton”). (“Ritz-Carlton”). 4701 4701 North North Meridian, Meridian, L.L.C. L.L.C. uses uses The The Ritz-Carlton Ritz-Carlton marks marks under under a license a license from from Ritz-Carlton, Ritz-Carlton, which has has not not Premier Sales Group, Inc. aby Licensed Real Estate Broker is the Exclusive Sales Agent. · ONE Sotheby’s International Realty, Global Marketing Partner. The Ritz-Carlton Residences, Miami which Beach are not THIS THIS OFFERING OFFERING ISIS MADE MADE ONLY ONLY BYBY THE THE OFFERING OFFERING confi confi rmed rmed the the accuracy accuracy ofby of any any ofof the the statements statements oror representations representations made made herein. This This graphic graphic is is anan “artist’s “artist’s rendering” rendering” and and is is forfor conceptual conceptual purposes purposes only. only. owned, developed or sold The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, L.L.C. or itsherein. affi liates (“Ritz-Carlton”). 4701 North Meridian, L.L.C. uses The Ritz-Carlton marks under a license from Ritz-Carlton, which has not DOCUMENTS DOCUMENTS FOR FOR THE THE CONDOMINIUM CONDOMINIUM AND AND NO NO STATEMENT STATEMENT SHOULD SHOULD BE RELIED RELIED UPON UPON IFIF NOT NOT MADE MADE ININ THE THE OFFERING OFFERING THIS THIS ISIS NOT NOT AN AN OFFER OFFER TO TO SELL, SELL, OR SOLICITATION SOLICITATION OF OFFERS OFFERS TO TO THIS OFFERING ISOR MADE ONLY BYOF THE OFFERING confi rmed the accuracy of any of the statements or representations madeBE herein. This graphic is an “artist’s rendering” andDOCUMENTS. isDOCUMENTS. for conceptual purposes only.

BUY, BUY, THE THE CONDOMINIUM CONDOMINIUM UNITS UNITS ININ STATES STATES WHERE WHERE SUCH SUCH OFFER OR OR SOLICITATION SOLICITATION CANNOT BEBE MADE. MADE. PRICES, PRICES, PLANS PLANS AND AND SPECIFICATIONS SPECIFICATIONS ARE ARE SUBJECT SUBJECT TO TO CHANGE CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. OBTAIN OBTAIN THE THE PROPERTY PROPERTY DOCUMENTS FOR THE CONDOMINIUM AND NOOFFER STATEMENT SHOULD BECANNOT RELIED UPON IF NOT MADE IN THE OFFERING DOCUMENTS. THIS IS NOT AN OFFERWITHOUT TO SELL, NOTICE. OR SOLICITATION OF OFFERS TO REPORT REPORT REQUIRED BYBY FEDERAL FEDERAL LAW LAW AND AND READ READ ITIT BEFORE BEFORE SIGNING SIGNING ANYTHING. ANYTHING. NO NO FEDERAL FEDERAL AGENCY HAS HAS JUDGED JUDGED THE MERITS MERITS OR OR VALUE, VALUE, IFIF ANY, ANY, OF OF THIS THIS PROPERTY. BUY, THEREQUIRED CONDOMINIUM UNITS IN STATES WHERE SUCH OFFER OR SOLICITATION CANNOT BEAGENCY MADE. PRICES, PLANSTHE AND SPECIFICATIONS ARE SUBJECT TOPROPERTY. CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. OBTAIN THE PROPERTY REPORT REQUIRED BY FEDERAL LAW AND READ IT BEFORE SIGNING ANYTHING. NO FEDERAL AGENCY HAS JUDGED THE MERITS OR VALUE, IF ANY, OF THIS PROPERTY.

RESIDENCES RESIDENCES DESIGNED DESIGNED for for for LIFE LIFE

Introducing IntroducingaaLimited LimitedCollection CollectionofofExquisite ExquisiteCondominium CondominiumResidences. Residences. Introducing a Limited Collection of Exquisite Condominium Residences. Designed Designedby byPiero PieroLissoni. Lissoni.Priced Pricedfrom fromapproximately approximately$2$2million milliontotoover over$25 $25million. million. Designed by Piero Lissoni. Priced from approximately $2 million to over $25 million. On-site On-sitesales salesgallery gallerynow nowopen. open.4701 4701North NorthMeridian MeridianAvenue, Avenue,Miami MiamiBeach Beach On-site sales gallery now open. 4701 North Meridian Avenue, Miami Beach For ForaaPrivate PrivateAppointment, Appointment,Please PleaseCall Call888-904-9893. 888-904-9893. For a Private Appointment, Please Call 888-904-9893. TheResidencesMiamiBeach.com TheResidencesMiamiBeach.com TheResidencesMiamiBeach.com

Developer Developer 4701 4701 North North Meridian, Meridian, L.L.C. L.L.C. Address: Address: 4218 4218 NE NE 2nd 2nd Avenue, Avenue, Miami, Miami, FLFL Developer 4701 North Meridian, L.L.C. Address: 4218 NE 2nd Avenue, Miami, FL

ORAL ORALREPRESENTATIONS REPRESENTATIONSCANNOT CANNOTBEBERELIED RELIEDUPON UPONASASCORRECTLY CORRECTLYSTATING STATINGTHE THEREPRESENTATIONS REPRESENTATIONSOF OFTHE THEDEVELOPER. DEVELOPER.FOR FORCORRECT CORRECTREPRESENTATIONS, REPRESENTATIONS,REFERENCE REFERENCESHOULD SHOULDBEBEMADE MADETO TOTHE THE DOCUMENTS DOCUMENTS REQUIRED REQUIRED BYBY SECTION SECTION 718.503, 718.503, FLORIDA FLORIDA STATUTES, STATUTES, TO TO BEBE FURNISHED FURNISHED BYBY A REPRESENTATIONS A DEVELOPER DEVELOPER TO TO AA BUYER BUYER OR OR LESSEE. LESSEE. ORAL REPRESENTATIONS CANNOT BE RELIED UPON AS CORRECTLY STATING THE OF THE DEVELOPER. FOR CORRECT REPRESENTATIONS, REFERENCE SHOULD BE MADE TO THE This This advertisement advertisement is is not not an an off off ering. ering. It It is is a a solicitation solicitation of of interest interest in in the the advertised advertised property. property. No No off off ering ering of of the the advertised advertised units units can can be be made made and and no no deposits deposits can can be be accepted, accepted, or or reservations, reservations, NEW NEW YORK YORK RESIDENTS RESIDENTS DOCUMENTS REQUIRED BY SECTION 718.503, FLORIDA STATUTES, TO BE FURNISHED BY A DEVELOPER TO A BUYER OR LESSEE. binding binding oror non-binding, non-binding, can bebe made made until until anan off ering ering plan is is filed filed the the New New York York State State Department Department ofof Law. Law. This This advertisement advertisement is made made pursuant pursuant tounits to Cooperative Cooperative Policy Policy Statement Statement No. No. 1, 1, issued issued byby the the New New York York State State This advertisement isoff not anplan off ering. Itwith iswith a solicitation of interest in the advertised property. No offeringisof the advertised can be made and no deposits can be accepted, or reservations, NEW YORK RESIDENTScan

Department Department ofof Law. Law. CP14-0017 CP14-0017 binding or non-binding, can be made until an offering plan is filed with the New York State Department of Law. This advertisement is made pursuant to Cooperative Policy Statement No. 1, issued by the New York State Department of Law. CP14-0017

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

C O N T E N T S S P R I N G 2 014

F E A T U R E S

46 LIVING LEGEND Q’s legendary contributor Liz Smith (a.k.a. “The Grand Dame of Dish”), dishes on one of Hollywood’s most beloved characters, the incredible Barbra Streisand. Known fondly as “Babs,” Streisand is the first artist ever to receive Oscar, Tony, Emmy, Grammy, Golden Globe, Cable Ace, National Endowment for the Arts, and Peabody awards, as well as the American Film Institute’s Lifetime Achievement honor and the Film Society of Lincoln Center Chaplin Award. 58 TAYLOR MADE New Zealand native Rebecca Taylor, known for her coveted “tough girl chic look,” knows how to mix it up. Her feminine, refined, and cool clothing combine flowy, feminine silhouettes with unexpected bold accents to create a sexy look that even the Duchess of Cambridge can’t resist. 60 FASHION ROUNDUP Elizabeth Meigher and Alex R. Travers deliver a comprehensive look at the best looks from Fall 2014 Fashion Week. Whether you’re mad for mod, taking flight in one of this seasons feathery frocks or stepping out in a full length 70s inspired duster, you’ll be sure to walk in style. 68 LIKE WE’VE NEVER SEEN HER A look at amazoinian model Veruschka’s early work with Johnny Moncada, as they travel on a dremlike journey through Italy, revealing the world of 1960s Italian fashion in all its languid glamour.

76 AN ART BASEL BREAKDOWN New Q Contributor Elizabeth Kurpis reports on Art Basel, one of the world’s premier Modern and contemporary art shows, held annually in Basel, Miami Beach and Hong Kong. Kurpis offers a fun, and informative look at one of the world’s largest art fairs. 82 FASHION REVIEW From New York City to Paris, London to Milan, Alex R. Travers reviews some of the most talkedabout shows for Fall 2014, including Carolina Herrera, Ralph Laurem, Georgio Armani and Nonoo.

82 Q20

/ SPRING 2014

C O V E R Model and actress Lauren Hutton photographed by Gianni Penati in New York, 1968 © Condé Nast Archive/Corbis

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

C O N T E N T S S P R I N G 2 014

D E P A R T M E N T S

31 NOSTALGIA A collage of snaps from many a spring, featuring the fresh faces of Goldie Hawn and Jackie Kennedy. 34 JEWELRY Throughout her life, Elizabeth Taylor always loved fine jewelry, and became something of the queen of diamonds. We think she’d like our selection of this spring’s finest jewels. 38 SUNGLASSES Check out the colorful selection of sunnies this season by Karen Walker, Saint Laurnet, Tom Ford, and more.

39 SHOES Soar to new heights with our latest selection of shoes, including an exotic pair by Alejandro Ingelmo. 41 MEN’S ACCESSORIES Alain Delon always knew how to throw a stylish punch—aided, in part, by his fashionable finishing touches. This spring, accessories make the man. 42 HANDBAGS There’s something for everyone with the latest crop of stylish spring handbags, in peppermint, python, and periwinkle.

94 Q FOCUS A bouquet of events for spring—from the Cinema Society screenings in the city to the H&M x Alexander Wang party at Coachella—as PYTs rev up for summer. 104 BEAUTY A selection of products—from haircare and skincare to makeup—to help you look as timeless as our icons. 106 EVENING LOOKS Get gussied up for evenings on the town with some help from our hallowed hall of fashion icons, like Grace Kelly, whose timeless style still inspires. 110 SHOPPING INDEX To help you on your fashion journey, a listing of where to buy the looks featured in our pages.

106 Q22

/ SPRING 2014

112 HOROSCOPES Advice from the universe as the weather warms, with stones from the Asprey, David Yurman, and Tiffany & Co.

30 WEST PUTNAM AVENUE GREENWICH, CT. 06830 203. 869 5800

WWW.SORABANDROSHI.COM

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA

ELIZABETH MEIGHER

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

EDITOR

JAMES STOFFEL CREATIVE DIRECTOR

LILY HOAGLAND EXECUTIVE EDITOR

ELIZABETH QUINN BROWN A SSOCIATE EDITOR

ALEX TRAVERS A SSOCIATE FA SHION EDITOR

DANIEL CAPPELLO FA SHION DIRECTOR

VALERIA FOX ART DIRECTOR

HILARY GEARY SOCIET Y EDITOR

JOANNA BAKER CO-FOUNDING EDITOR

Quest Media, LLC. S. CHRISTOPHER MEIGHER III CHAIRMAN AND C.E.O.

KATHLEEN SHERIDAN A SSI STANT TO THE C.E.O.

ARLENE LEFKOE ACCOUNTING MANAGER BOARD OF ADVISORS

BRUCIE BOALT EDWARD LEE CAVE BARBARA CORCORAN JED H. GARFIELD CLARK HALSTEAD HOWARD LORBER PAMELA LIEBMAN ELIZABETH STRIBLING ROGER W. TUCKERMAN PETER TURINO WILLIAM LIE ZECKENDORF SARAH BETH SHRAGER 917.576.1217 NEW YORK

BINA GUPTA 852.2868.1555 HONG KONG

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

ELIZABETH KURPIS LIZ SMITH TAKI THEODORACOPULOS MICHAEL THOMAS CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

DREW ALTIZER HARRY BENSON BILLY FARRELL PATRICK MCMULLAN CLINT SPAULDING BEN FINK SHAPIRO LINDA LANE SOPER 612.308.4159 PALM BEACH

EMILIO ZERBONI 011.39.031.267.797 MILAN

© QUEST MEDIA, LLC 2014. All rights reserved. Vol. 10, No. 2. Q–Quintessential Style is published quarterly, 4 times a year. Yearly subscription rate $32.00. Two-year rate $50.00. Q, 420 Madison Avenue, Penthouse, 16th floor, New York, NY 10017. 646.840.3404 fax 646.840.3408. For address changes, please call: 646.840.3404. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Q–Quintessential Style, 420 Madison Avenue, Penthouse, 16th floor, New York, NY 10017. SUBSCRIPTION INQUIRIES

Call 646.840.3404, ext. 106

INTRODUCING INTRODUCING AA NEW NEW ERA ERA OFOF GLAMOUR GLAMOUR

INTRODUCING INTRODUCING INTRODUCING INTRODUCING A NEW A NEW A ERA NEW A NEW ERA ERA ERA OF GLAMOUR OFOF GLAMOUR OF GLAMOUR GLAMOUR

Manhattan’s Manhattan’s most most iconic iconic hotel hotel Manhattan’s Manhattan’s Manhattan’s most Manhattan’s iconic most most hotel iconic most iconic hotel iconic hotelhotel reveals reveals dramatically dramatically redesigned redesigned reveals reveals dramatically reveals dramatically reveals dramatically redesigned dramatically redesigned redesigned redesigned guestrooms guestrooms andand suites. suites. guestrooms guestrooms guestrooms and guestrooms suites. andand suites. and suites. suites.

TheThe St. St. Regis Regis New New York: York: contemporary contemporary sophistication sophistication at The at The Best Best Address. Address.

The St.The Regis The St.New The Regis St. Regis St. York: New Regis New York: New York: York: contemporary contemporary contemporary contemporary sophistication sophistication sophistication sophistication at The Best at The atAddress. The Best at The Best Address. Best Address. Address.

two two east east 55th 55th at at fifth fifth avenue avenue

two east two 55th two east at two east 55th fifth east 55th atavenue 55th fifth at fifth at avenue fifth avenue avenue

new new york, york, new new york york

new york, newnew york, new york york, new york, new york new yorkyork

stregis.com/newyork stregis.com/newyork

stregis.com/newyork stregis.com/newyork stregis.com/newyork stregis.com/newyork

1.877.stregis 1.877.stregis

1.877.stregis 1.877.stregis 1.877.stregis 1.877.stregis

a legacy a legacy of of luxury. luxury. now now at at over over 30 of 30 of thethe world’s world’s finest finest hotels hotels & resorts & resorts . .

a legacy a legacy ofa luxury. legacy a of legacy luxury. of luxury. of luxury. now at now over now at 30 now over of at the over at 30 world’s over of30the of30the world’s of the world’s world’s finest hotels finest finest hotels & finest hotels & hotels & resorts &. resorts resorts .resorts . .

stregis.com stregis.com

stregis.com stregis.com stregis.com stregis.com

Starwood 014 Starwood Hotels Hotels & Resorts & Resorts Worldwide, Worldwide, Inc. All Inc. ©2010–2014 Rights All Rights Reserved. ©2010–2014 Starwood Reserved. ©2010–2014 Preferred Hotels ©2010–2014 Preferred Starwood Guest, & Starwood Guest, Resorts Hotels SPG, Starwood SPG, Hotels Worldwide, & Resorts Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. & Resorts All Worldwide, Rights Inc. Worldwide, Reserved. All Inc. Rights AllInc. Preferred Rights Reserved. All Rights Reserved. Guest, Preferred Reserved. SPG, Preferred Guest, Preferred Guest, SPG, Guest, SPG, SPG, and heirtheir logoslogos are the aretrademarks the trademarks of Starwood of Starwood Hotels St.Hotels Regis & Resorts & and Resorts St.their Regis Worldwide, St. logos Worldwide, Regis andSt. are their and Inc., Regis thelogos their Inc., trademarks orand itsare logos or their affiliates. its theare affiliates. logos trademarks of the Starwood are trademarks the of trademarks Hotels Starwood of & Starwood Resorts of Hotels Starwood Hotels Worldwide, & Resorts Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., & Resorts or Worldwide, its affiliates. Inc., Worldwide, or Inc., its affiliates. orInc., its affiliates. or its affiliates.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

EDITOR’S LETTER

“Fashion is what you’re offered four times a year by designers. And style is what you choose.” Wise words spoken by our spring cover girl, Lauren Hutton. Style is always debated in the world of fashion- who has it, who doesn’t and how to get it. But is it really all about the clothes? David Bowie was recently crowned the most stylish Briton in history. Fourty-two years ago, 25 year old David Cook (aka David Bowie) released a record called Ziggy Stardust and the Spiders From Mars and launched a fashion revolution that included androgyny, and rebellion through attire, inspiring thousands of runway shows and photo shoots (see Kate Moss painted up on the cover of Vogue and Jean Paul Gaultier’s Spring 2013 Runway show). Fast forward a decade or two… If Carrie Bradshaw or Anna Wintour showed up in one of Ziggy’s colorful asymmetrical bodysuits with lightening bolts and circles painted on their faces (as cool as that would be!), all of today’s fashion followers with their Hermès birkins and Chanel blazers would crumble to their knees. The point is, style is a manner of self-expression that is as much about character as it is about clothes. A sleek black dress, killer slingbacks and a fab clutch will prove your fashion sensibility, but ultimately real style comes from within. In this issue of Spring Q, our legendary contributor Liz Smith (aka “The Grand Dame of Dish”), dishes on another character known fort her revolutionary look, Barbra Streisand. Streisand’s high, 60’s beehive, black pharaonic liner over strabismic eyes, unapologetically Semitic nose, and kooky clothing from thrift shops have become iconic. In 1964, the actress, singer-songwriter, author, writer, film producer, and director remarked: “I had to go right to the top or nowhere at all…I could never be in the chorus, know what I mean? I had to be a star because my mouth is too big. I’m too whatever...” Our spring issue of Q delivers an additional groundbreaking icon with a look at the legendary amazonian model Verushka and her early work with Italian fashion photographer Johnny Moncada. At the beginning of her career the budding model – with her exotic face, fierce cheekbones, enormous blue eyes and tawny, golden skin, was known simply as “Vera.” When Moncada and his daughter unlocked a trunk that had been sealed for 40 years, they discovered thousands of his unpublished negatives. They revealed the world of 1960’s Italian fashion in all its languid glamour, personified by the stunning, young, and impressionable Veruschka during a dreamlike journey through Italy that spanned Rome, Capri, Florence, Sardinia, and various locales of la dolce vita. Veruschka recalls that the kind and sympathetic Italian photographer “allowed me to be myself.” Today the model reminisces, “Even though I had evolved into Veruschka, in Johnny’s photos I always remained Vera.” And our newest Q Contributor, Elizabeth Kurpis (sharp as a tack and as comely as she is clever), traveled to Miami to cover Art Basel, one of the world’s premier Modern and contemporary art shows, held annually in Basel, Miami Beach, and Hong Kong. Of course, Basel has become as famous for it’s exceptional parties as it has for its art, and Kurpis offers a look at the best shows and parties in her fun and informative piece. For the very best in today’s fashion, check out our star Counterclockwise, from top right: Bulgari gold, amethyst, turassociate fashion editor Alex Travers’ Fashion Roundup and quoise and diamond necklace; original Hunter wellies; Aerin Lauder Fashion Review. Alex provides the top looks from the Fall 2014 green shagreen coasters; Edie Parker pearlescent flamingo clutch; shows. Explore his picks gather inspiration for your best style Jessica Hart wearing Vionett at Art Basel in Miami; Chanel Camelia this spring. In the words of noted columnist and fashion editor Galbe ring in white; Veruschka photographed by Johnny Moncada; Diana Vreelend: “You gotta have style. It helps you get down Kaenon’s Shilo sunglasses in tortoise; Fabergé Charmeuse Fines the stairs. It helps you get up in the morning. It’s a way of life. Créoles Earrings; Solid & Striped “Sophie” top and bottom; Barbra Without it, you’re nobody.” Streisand photographed by Milton H. Greene, 1964.

ELIZABETH MEIGHER EDITOR

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

CONTRIBUTORS

Liz Smith > Liz calls herself the 2,000-year-old gossip columnist. These days she’s been having fun with her website, which features 20 famous women: WowOWow.com (aimed at the largest demographic coming on the web—women who weren’t born yesterday!). In her latest Living Legend column for Q, Liz looks at iconic Funy Girl Barbra Streisand, the self-described “bagel on a plate full of onion rolls!” Liz, however, has always thought of Barbra as something “more exotic than a bagel—a mountain of caviar surrounded by Twinkies,” listing her among the top five stars and assuredly the last great transformative star.

Alex R. Travers > Gimlet-eyed and eager, Alex picked out some of the top trends from the Fall 2014 collections. “Today, people own these clothes and accessories five minutes after they hit the runways, sometimes before the shows even start,” he said. “It’s exciting to know that people will be sporting these looks this spring.” He also reviewed 10 fashion shows for this issue (pg. 82), along with over 20 for questmag.com. “These shows are often very smart and they absorb so much of what I love—art, music, travel...” Alex Travers is the associate fashion editor of Quest and Q.

76 Billy Farrell > is a well-known photographer who enjoyed over a decade of experience at Patrick McMullan before establishing Billy Farrell Agency with several partners. Billy Farrell Agency is a full-service digital photography agency that chronicles benefits, red-carpet events, movie premieres, and parties. For this issue, Farrell takes readers to a variety of parties in Q Focus—on the East Coast and on the West Coast “I don’t know how to party without a camera,” he says. Well, we don’t know how to party without Billy Farrell and his camera!

Q28

/ SPRING 2014

46 < Lily Hoagland is the executive editor of Quest and Q, and was previously the associate research editor at Vanity Fair. In this issue, she sits down with designer Rebecca Taylor, a favorite of many “It” girls. Taylor’s style—modern feminine silhouettes with an edge—are perfect for when you need to attend a fancy party but want to ride home on a motorcycle with a bad boy. (Lily maintains that Moto Guzzis and Ducatis are the best bikes on the market.) Mixing masculine and feminine elements “looks both stylish and unexpected,” according to Taylor.

60 < Elizabeth Kurpis A high-profile lawyer by day, Elizabeth is equally known for her involvement in the New York charity, art, and fashion scenes. She has spent the last five years donating her time to various institutions, including the American Museum of Natural History, The Frick Collection, and the Memorial Sloan Kettering Associates Committee. When she has a moment to spare, she enjoys traveling with her husband and her dog, Sam. Elizabeth’s passion for fashion, art, and travel bring her to Art Basel Miami Beach each December. In this issue, Elizabeth takes us along for the ride.

Established 1934 Established Established Established 193419341934

504 Park Avenue (between 59th and 60th Streets)

NewPark York 504 504 Park 504 Avenue Park Avenue Avenue (between (between 59th (between and 59th60th and 59th Streets) 60th andStreets) 60th Streets) 800-223-3717

PleaseNew call for Catalogue New York New York York www.scullyandscully.com 800-223-3717 800-223-3717 800-223-3717

PleasePlease call for Please call Catalogue forcall Catalogue for Catalogue

www.scullyandscully.com www.scullyandscully.com www.scullyandscully.com

China

Crystal

Silver

Fine Home Furnishings

Jewelry

Gifts

China China China Crystal Crystal Crystal Silver Silver Silver Fine Fine Home Fine Home Furnishings Home Furnishings Furnishings Jewelry Jewelry Jewelry Gifts Gifts Gifts

Chin

SHOP POSH

PHILANTHROPY IS ALWAYS IN FASHION

For the hottest designer and vintage pieces at sizzling prices ...

POSH BENEFIT PREVIEW SALE May 14, 2014 ®

For tickets, call (212) 821-9445 or e-mail pfarmer@lighthouse.org

A POSH AFFAIR DINNER ®

May 20, 2014

to honor Visionaries

Sheila Nevins President HBO Documentary Films

Jonathan Adler Founder & CEO Jonathan Adler Enterprises

Thom Browne Designer

For tickets, call (212) 821-9357 or e-mail ddolan@lighthouse.org poshsale.org PROCEEDS BENEFIT LIGHTHOUSE INTERNATIONAL AN AFFILIATE OF

MANY THANKS TO BIL DONOVAN FOR HIS POSH ILLUSTRATION

POSH SALE Opens to the Public May 15 – 18, 2014 ®

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

N O S TA L G I A

S P R IN G AC T IVI T I E S Jackie Kennedy photographed by

Jacques Lowe in Hyannis Port, Mass., 1960.

SPRING 2014 /

Q31

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

N O S TA L G I A

4 3

1. Jane Birkin with balloons at a charity event in London, 1970; 2. Tennis in the Bahamas photographed by Slim Aarons, 1957; 3. Twiggy photographed by Ronald Traeger, London, 1967; 4. Goldie Hawn, circa 1965; 5. Diane Von Furstenberg at a Tahitian party at Brigitte Bardot’s house in St. Tropez, 1969; 6. Palm Beach, photographed by Slim Aarons, 1968; 7. Farrah Fawcett at the “Celebrity Battle of the Sexes Tennis Tournament,” 1977. > Opposite page: 1. surfers in Lorne, Australia, by Rennie Ellis, 1968; 2. Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor, and Laraine Day arriving at the New York International Airport, 1954; 3. Françoise Hardy in Paco Rabane by Jean-Marie Périer, 1968; 4. Spring travel; 5. Lilly Pulitzer at a Palm Beach pool party by Slim Aarons, 1961; 6. JFK and daughter Caroline aboard the “Honey Fitz,” off Hyannis Port, Mass., by Cecil Stoughton, 1963.

Q32

/ SPRING 2014

7. Ro n Ga le ll a, L td. ; 5 . G lo be Ph o to s/ Z um aPres s .c om ; 4 . Si lve r Sc re e n Co lle c ti o n / Ge tt y Im ag es)

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

N O S TA L G I A 1 2

6 SPRING 2014/

Q33

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

J E W E L RY

6 5 1 3 2

4 Hedy Lamarr was born Hedwig Eva Maria Kiesler but decided to change her surname out of homage to the beautiful silent film star Barbara La Marr. Hedy was quite the accomplished actress, and also a co-inventor of a certain technique for frequency hopping—which, not so incidentally, helped pave the way for today’s wireless communications. A modern woman always ahead of her time, Lamarr knew when to act on a good thing, and jewelry was no exception. Why not pave the road for some future success of your own by taking a cue from Hedy and accessorizing with some of these fresh jewels?

Q34

/ SPRING 2014

1. MARINA B Trisola rings in sapphire, emerald, and ruby; $4,800 each. 2. PEGGY STEPHAICH GUINNESS Snake ring in white gold, blue sapphires, and diamonds; price upon request. 3. DE GRISOGONO With inspired shape and unique movement, this emerald and amethyst ring set in rose gold is, in a word, exceptional; price upon request. 4. SEAMAN SCHEPPS Rio bracelet in multi-color gemstones, diamond, and yellow gold; price upon request. 5. HERMÈS Circuit 24 Faubourg enamel cuffs in black and white; $470–830. 6. TAMSEN Z Lightning Ridge black opal snake necklace; price upon request. 7. IPPOLITA Rock candy mini teardrops in turquoise and brown shell; $695.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E J E W E L RY

6 5 Elizabeth Taylor had a famous appetite for jewelry, acquiring some of the biggest, brightest, and most sought-after pieces in the history of jewelry. The actress became so closely associated with diamonds (and we’re not talking about her signature fragrance, White Diamonds) that one of the most famous she ever owned—a 69.42-carat pear-shape purchased for her by Richard Burton— would eventually come to be called the Taylor-Burton Diamond. Hmm...act fast to acquire one of the offerings on this page and who knows: maybe one day it might even bear your name?

1. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Dragonfly clip with sapphire wings set in white and rose gold; price upon request. 2. CHANEL Camélia Galbé pendant in white gold, diamonds, and white ceramic; price upon request. 3. STONE PARIS FOR BONPOINT Gold feather necklace, available at Bonpoint, 398 West Broadway, New York City; $950. 4. TIFFANY & CO. Jean Schlumberger Fleurage diamond necklace in 18-kt. yellow gold and platinum; $350,000. 5. MAUBOUSSIN My First Madame ring in yellow gold, citrine, and mother-of-pearl; $2,475. 6. HARRY WINSTON Diamond loop bracelet in diamonds and platinum; price upon request. 7. H. STERN Flower earrings in 18-kt. yellow gold; $1,100.

SPRING 2014/

Q35

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

SWIMSUITS

Sun Times, Fun Times

1. PARASOL SUN Padded red halter swim top ($68) and ruched bikini bottom ($68). 2. SHOSHANNA In an exclusive collaboration with Club Monaco, Shoshanna offers this floral triangle top ($79) and string brief ($83). 3. FLAGPOLE SWIM The classic triangle bikini is reimagined in Flagpole’s Olive Triangle Bikini; $376. 4. SOLID & STRIPED Have fun with these blue and white stripes: Morgan top ($80) and bottom ($80) and Miranda top ($80) and bottom ($80). 5. SCALISE Simply cover up or go for a full-on look

Ali MacGraw might have gained attention by bidding adieu to Columbus (in the 1969 flick Goodbye, Columbus), but she also knew how to make the warmest of welcomes—as she does here, with an open embrace of the sun. With summer rays in near reach, you’ll want to stock up on some new swimsuits of your own. Feel free to take a cue from MacGraw with a classic two-tone bikini, or any number of solid, striped, or patterned bikinis featured here. We fell hard for Scalise’s flirty Bambou bottoms, and, after a few pairs for yourself, so will you.

in these Bambou shorts in navy raye ($140) and Cap 21 sky blue ($140). 6. LA PERLA Glimmering Soutache Swimwear top ($278) and bottom ($198). 7. RED CARTER Black and white top ($89) and bottom ($89).

1 2 7

Q36

/ SPRING 2014

©Ricci-Novara, PH Giovanni Ricci-Novara, Paris ©© PH PH Giovanni Giovanni Ricci-Novara, Paris Paris

iGoR mitoRaj iGoRmitoRaj mitoRaj iGoR

ikaro blu | 2013 | bronze | h 82 x 223 cm

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

SUNGLASSES

3 4

Here Comes The Sun

5 6

Alain Delon and Shirley MacLaine starred together in the 1965 film The Yellow Rolls-Royce, in which the couple, pictured here on set, sported some sleek sunglasses. And, boy, have we been waiting for spring to bloom so we can try out some of our new favorite styles inspired by these film icons. This time, however, we wanted to add splashes of color to the classic shapes of Alain and Shirley’s shades and it’s as if designers read our minds. Pick from our selection of super-cool sunnies and go for a drive—ideally in a yellow Rolls.

7 8

1. SHERIFF & CHERRY Fun and chic: the G11 Double Star Sky with sky gradient crystal polished acetate frame; price upon request. 2. THIERRY LASRY Rhapsody in pink: the Rapsody 1654; $450 at neimanmarcus.com. 3. MORGENTHAL FREDERICS The new Lee sunglasses are sure to liven up any look; $395 at Morgenthal Frederics: 399 West Broadway, New York. 4. KAREN WALKER Point your style in the right direction with these Deep Worship sunglasses; $280 at barneys.com. 5. TOMS Mix up your summer sunnies with the latest Margeaux model by TOMS; $98. 6. JEREMY TARIAN A spring favorite: acetate metal sunglasses; price upon request. 7. OLIVER GOLDSMITH Go retro with the Fuz (1966); $440. 8. SAINT LAURENT Casual yet classic: the new Rounded-Square sunglasses; price upon request. 9. TOM FORD Nothing says spring quite like these lively, fashionable Christophe glasses by Tom Ford; $380 at barneys.com.

Q38

/ SPRING 2014

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E SHOES

Spring Kicks

Diana, Princess of Wales, is our icon for shoes this season. She’s a great choice: Diana was graceful, beautiful, stunning...really, elegance personified. But even with such a royal title, she still had fun with her footwear. We suggest you do the same this spring with some of our colorful kicks: Carlo Pazolini’s flats are perfect for the boat or the beach; Tabitha Simmons’ pointed-toe butterfly pumps will have you flying around town in style; and, if you really want spice up your spring wardrobe, check out Alejandro Ingelmo’s Odyssey, a sexy sandal spiked with Cuban influences.

3 1. CARLO PAZOLINI Kick off the spring season in these sleek flats by Carlo Pazolini; $195 at Carlo Pazolini Midtown. 2. TABITHA SIMMONS Perfect for the woman who needs to fly all over town: the Dela Bright Butterfly pointed pump with printed butterfly fabric; $795 at shop.tabithasimmons.com. 3. LOEFFLER RANDALL The Tasmin classic mid-heel pump in black citrus printed silk-linen fabric is just peachy; $295 at loefflerrandall.com. 4. RUPERT SANDERSON Brighten up your day—and your feet—with these BOUGIE sandals; $1,095 at rupertsanderson.com. 5. CHELSEA PARIS Sexy, sinuous, and snazzy: The SOSA sandal by Chelsea Paris; $625. 6. ALEJANDRO INGELMO The designer infuses his work with an intriguing backstory: classic Cuban influences mingle with a distinct New York edge in his Odyssey sandal; $1,595.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

ACCESSORIES

3 4

A Splash Of Springtime Romy Schneider broke onto the scene with her portrayal of Empress Elisabeth of Austria in the 1955 romantic biopic Sissi. After moving to France, she went on to make some of the most successful and critically acclaimed films with some of the most notable film directors of the 1960s and 1970s. Playing the beauty came easy to Schneider, but beauty doesn’t have to be out of reach for the rest of us—especially with the accents and accessories on these pages, which are perfect for every girl.

8 9 1. ALEXANDRA FERGUSON Add some “Ooh La La” and a bit of “The Good Life” to your home with Ferguson’s fanciful pillows; $87, $97. 2. SAINT-LOUIS Colorful crystal is the way to go with Saint-Louis’ Amadeus N2 glass in red;

$260. 3. JULIE VOS Get wrapped up in Julie Vos’s Jakarta scarf in seafoam; $165. 4. CHRISTOFLE The Vertigo round box in silver not only guards your treasures—it is one itself; $600. 5. TIFFANY & CO. Keep time in style with Tiffany’s stainless steel Tesoro watch with black dial; price upon request. 6. DIPTYQUE Leave it to diptyque to elevate the beauty of lavender’s rare scent, in a new fragrance offering: Eau de Lavande; $98. 7. ASSOULINE New from the luxury publisher Assouline is a book that’s perfect for any summer home: The Surf Club, by Tom Austin (with a foreword by Pamela Fiori), offering a lush history of the Miami institution; $75. 8. HUNTER BOOT Be ready for any season in Hunter’s Original Contrast rain boots; $150. 9. AERIN Aerin

Q40

/ SPRING 2014

Lauder’s embossed shagreen frame with suede lining and brass; $330.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

ACCESSORIES

Pack A Punch Alain Delon famously starred in Purple Noon as the title character from the 1960 film adaptation of The Talented Mr. Ripley, but a true actorly talent always defined his career. Once engaged to Romy Schneider (opposite page), Delon had an indisputable guy’s guy appeal that accounted for early comparisons as the French version of James Dean. Whether you’re a Delon or a Dean—or someone somewhere in between—one thing’s for sure: you shouldn’t let spring pass you by without checking out some of these guys’ things, from the perfect sound system to the perfect set of shades.

5 1. MCINTOSH The McIntosh McAire integrated radio system delivers legendary sound quality in a compact size, with built-in AirPlay; $3,000. 2. J.CREW Joining forces with Steele Canvas Basket Corp., J.Crew offers this leather-trim gym bag; $168. 3. SHINOLA The Runwell Chrono 47-mm; $750. 4. ESQUIVEL Perfect for packing on trips to Italy: the Portofino canvas loafer in natural with brown leather; $850. 5. BALLY Leather technology case from Bally; $275. 6. ARROWHEAD FARMS The talented Bronson van Wyck lends his knack for the good life to Arrowhead Farms to offer sundry mixes, including the new Dark Harbor Southside Mix; $28 each. 7. BARTON PERREIRA Giovanni shades in matte golden honey; $480. 8. JACK SPADE Two-tone tote in black and bright blue; $38. 9. RALPH LAUREN Step out on trend in camo sneaks from Ralph Lauren; select stores.

SPRING 2014/

Q41

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

HANDBAGS

It’s In The Bag Lauren Bacall: She’s the queen of film noir, a genre of cinema we admire and always look to for inspiration. The Bronx-born bombshell was known for her distinctively husky voice and sultry looks—looks that could kill. Just go revisit some of those films of the ’40s and ’50s if you need a reminder: The Big Sleep, Dark Passage, How to Marry a Millionaire... But no matter her mission, Bacall boasted a style all her own, and we hope that with this selection of spring-summer handbags, you’ll be inspired to show off some new accessories, too.

1. ASPREY Turn heads with this Belgravia Bucket bag in powder blue sueded bullskin; $2,450 at Asprey: 853 Madison Avenue. 2. RALPH LAUREN The Ricky Chain Bag in neon green; $1,950. 3. DSQUARED2 Fresh off the Spring 2014 runway—and the perfect item to tote around the tiki bar; $2,450. 4. MAX MARA It’s easy to look chic with Max Mara’s GINEVRA handbag, in light pink Palmellato-embossed leather; $1,150 at Max Mara: 813 Madison Avenue. 5. BOYY Carry it all in the Jacques tote; $925 at boyybag.com. 6. JIMMY CHOO The Rebel handbag in Peppermint patent leather; $975. 7. DEVI KROELL Talk about exotics. The Devi Kroell Small Sutton in lizard, pony, and python; $3,400 at Devi Kroell: 717 Madison Avenue. 8. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Pretty in pink: The Sweet Charity Bag; $1,595.

Q42

/ SPRING 2014

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E CLUTCHES

Clutch Shopping Brigitte Bardot, known to many as the sex symbol of the sixties, wasn’t afraid to play around a little bit. Her song, “Moi Je Joue” was proof: “Me I play / Me I play cheek to cheek,” as the song translates to English. But the French actress, singer, and model also played with her style, which, at times, could be daring, delightful, and, most importantly, inspiring. So for some inspiration this spring, check out these chic clutches from the likes of Balenciaga to Boyy to Nancy Gonzales to Ralph Lauren. We’re sure you won’t be disappointed.

1. NANCY GONZALEZ Get ready to make a statement this spring with Nancy Gonzalez’s woven crocodile leaf clutch; $2,450 at Bergdorf Goodman. 2. BALENCIAGA Nothing says elegance like Balenciaga’s Classic Minaudière, in smooth calfskin leather hard-frame clutch with silver-tone metal detailing; $1,275. 3. BOYY Known for their exotic blends, you’ll be sure to impress with Boyy’s Filippo Small, in matte firm with python; $895 at boyybag.com. 4. INNAMORATO Pied-de-poule’s never looked so cool: the black and white clutch bag by Innamorato; $407 at Bonpoint: 805 Madison Avenue. 5. 3.1 PHILLIP LIM Zip up all your goodies in 3.1 Phillip Lim’s polkadotted Flat Zip; $315 at barneys.com 6. RALPH LAUREN The Soft Ricky Clutch in Greek key printed nappa calfskin; $1,500 at select Ralph Lauren stores or ralphlauren.com.

SPRING 2014/

Q43

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

M E N ’ S A P PA R E L

Smooth Sailing

John F. Kennedy was not only the commander-in-chief but also the undisputed leader of a relaxed preppy style that he sported with easy self-confidence. Whether sailing off the shores of Cape Cod or playing golf in Palm Beach, Kennedy’s youthful elegance was driven home by his ultra-clean ’60s look: staples like Wayfarer sunglasses, neat polo shirts, crew neck sweaters, and crisp khakis. This spring, sail into a style of your own with modern takes on classic elegance, like these Sebago boat shoes, Scalise swim trunks, and some more adventurous charters by Ralph Lauren and GANT.

2 1. SEBAGO Bright Red Horween Dockside, hand-sewn in premium Horween leather; $150. 2. CRIQUET SHIRTS The Players shirt in peacoat blue with contrasting collar; $75. 3. SCALISE You can’t have enough navy and white for summer: the Canoubier swim trunk in navy and white ($150) and white and navy ($150). 4. RALPH LAUREN Brave the elements in this navy lambskin coat by Ralph Lauren Purple Label; $4,995. 5. GANT BY MICHAEL BASTIAN Schooner crew neck sweater ($185) and canvas five-pocket jean ($195). 6. J.CREW Twothirds teams up with Saint James for the nautically inspired Armorique shirt in chanvre indigo; $114. 7. 3X1 Once you slip into 3x1’s M4 XX46 jeans, you’ll never want to take them off; $285. 8. MICHAEL BASTIAN Double-breasted linen blazer ($1,995) and red camo leopard jeans (price upon request

Q44

/ SPRING 2014

Y ou know the place your mind wanders to? Y ou know the place your mind wanders to? Y ou know the place your mind wanders to? Own it. Own Own it. it.

Pine Creek Sporting Club is the perfect place to build your family tradition. Pine Creekenjoy Sporting Club is the perfect place to build your family tradition. Residents 2,400 acres of unspoiled Florida wilderness, conveniently Pine Creek Sporting Club is the perfect place to build your family tradition. Residents acresBeach of unspoiled Florida wilderness, conveniently located 1.5 enjoy hours 2,400 from Palm and Orlando. Offering world-class hunting, Residents enjoy 2,400 acres of unspoiled Florida wilderness, conveniently located 1.5 hours from Palm Beach and Orlando. Offering world-class hunting, sport shooting, fishing, fully furnished lodge with dining and catering facilities, located 1.5 hours from Palm Beach and Orlando. Offering world-class hunting, sport shooting, fishing, lodge with catering facilities, pool, equestrian, fitnessfully andfurnished activity centers, Pinedining Creekand is the escape you’ve sport shooting, fishing, fully furnished lodge with dining and catering facilities, pool, hunting equestrian, activity centers, Pine home, Creek but is the you’ve been for.fitness It mayand be your second or third it escape will surely be pool, equestrian, fitness and activity centers, Pine Creek is the escape you’ve been hunting for. It may be your second or third home, but it will surely be first in your heart. A limited number of luxurious cabins from $800,000, been hunting for. It may be your second or third home, but it will surely be first in your40-acre heart. A limited of luxurious cabins from $800,000, and pristine ranch sites number from $1,000,000. first in your heart. A limited number of luxurious cabins from $800,000, and pristine 40-acre ranch sites from $1,000,000. and pristine 40-acre ranch sites from $1,000,000.• pinecreeksportingclub.com Welcome to the greater outdoors. • 561.346.9365 Welcome to the greater outdoors. • 561.346.9365 • pinecreeksportingclub.com Welcome to the greater outdoors. • 561.346.9365 • pinecreeksportingclub.com

Florida’s Finest Upland Bird Florida’s Finest Upland Bird Hunting Plantation Florida’s Finest Upland Bird Hunting Plantation Hunting Plantation

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

This page: Barbra Streisand in quirky lingerie as Doris in TheOwl and The Pussycat, directed by Herbert Ross, 1970. > Opposite page: A portrait of Barbra Streisand circa 1970

“I’m a bagel on a plate full of onion rolls!”

That’s how Barbra Streisand explained her unique qualities in Funny Girl, just before she launched into her paean to herself, “I’m The Greatest Star.” (I know I should say Fanny Brice’s paean, but—come on. Barbra was expressing, musically, her extreme confidence in Barbra Joan Streisand as well.) I have always thought of Barbra as something more exotic than a bagel: a mountain of caviar surrounded by Twinkies. If not the “greatest” star, she is right up there in the top five, and is most assuredly the last great transformative star. She changed what the industry found acceptable as leading lady; she didn’t look or sound or behave like anybody else.

Q46

/ SPRING 2 0 1 4

Liz Smith

O p po s i te p a ge : P h o to b y Bo b T h o ma s/ Po p pe r f o to / Ge tt y Im a ge s

She appeared—much like Madonna and Diana Ross—to be a bottomless, brazen well of self-confidence with a sense that she was a star long before she was. And like the other two, all that much-criticized, ruthless sense of self masked an insecurity and vulnerability she was loath to show. Barbra’s life had been an endless, often painful quest for self-realization as a woman, and perfection as an artist. I don’t know, despite a warm mellowing in recent years, how successful the former has been. (She is still wed to her beautiful goy, James Brolin—living out the plot of several of her most famous films.) But as an artist, she has achieved perfection, as far as I am concerned. When Barbra returned to performing concerts in 1994—after

P h ot o by S i lve r Sc re e n Co lle c ti o n / G et ty I ma ge s .

Living Legend Barbra Streisand

That union produced two siblings, Sheldon and Roslyn. Barbra was not a happy child. She wasn’t overly fond of Kind and she thought that her mother, who had once harbored her own showbiz ambitions was never supportive enough, as Barbra would tell the world endlessly after she became famous. (Barbra would come to revere and romanticize the father she never really knew, but with Diana there would always be a strain.) Streisand wanted to be an actress, a great actress. Problem was, her acting didn’t exactly bowl anybody over in summer stock or off-Broadway. But she had this other little gift: an astonishing singing voice. Her desire to act, not sing, had led her to literally keep that voice a secret to many friends. She got over it. Or at least she figured recognition as a singer would be a jumpstart to an acting career. Small club gigs, bigger club gigs, a cult following in New York led her several well-received off-Broadway entries, most importantly I Can Get It For You Wholesale. By now,

O p po s i te p a ge : P h o to b y D av i d M o n tgo m e r y / Ge tt y Im a ge s

almost 20 years of sporadic live appearances—I attended her opening night at Madison Square Garden. I was not much familiar with Barbra onstage. She was a movie star to me. (Considering the dearth of her live performing, I was not alone.) She appeared onstage gleaming, sleek as a seal, glamorous. Then she began to sing. The audience and myself took a collective gasp of pleasure, the voice of the movies and so many albums, still exquisite. (My escort literally burst into happy tears.) There had been the usual behind-the-scenes tales of her demands for this and that, all regarding the show. But as Barbra took her final bows to an audience that was in a genuine state of euphoria, I thought—if nagging perfectionism results in, well, perfection, she’s right— she’s damn right. Maybe she is the greatest star. Barbra Streisand was born in Brooklyn in 1942. Her father, Emanuel, died when she was 15 months old. The family suffered after that and Barbra’s mother married again, to Louis Kind.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

This page, clockwise from top left: Elliott Gould and Barbra Streisand photographed by David Montgomery, 1966; Streisand and Peter Bogdanovich on the set of Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Up Doc, 1972; Streisand in Funny Girl photographed by Ormond Gigli, 1964; Streisand in Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Up Doc, 1972; Robert Redford and Streisand in The Way We Were, 1973; Seth Rogen and Streisand in The Guilt Trip, 2012; Streisand photographed by Steve Schapiro for the cover of her album The Way We Were, 1974; James Caan and Streisand promoting Funny Lady, 1975; logo for the musical Funny Lady. > Opposite page, clockwise from top: an unidentified man, Barbra Streisand and Johnny Carson on The Tonight Show, 1964; Burt Bacharach and Streisand, 1971; Barbra Streisand as Fanny Brice in the film Funny Girl (Columbia Pictures, 1968).

SPRING 2014/

Q49

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

Barbra was a well-known “character” via her nightclub and T.V. appearances. She was “kooky” and a little abrasive and strangely sexy—if you wanted a fight. (She was a frequent guest on Mike Wallace’s chat show. It was a lot of parry and thrust between these two.) Signed by Columbia Records, she put out her first album, titled—what else?—“The Barbra Streisand Album.” She was instantly enshrined as the new voice of her time, the likely inheritor to the legacy of Judy Garland. (Streisand liked “big” emotional songs, but was a smoother, more controlled singer than Judy, at that point in Garland’s career. Barbra also favored odd, funny songs, or old ones, re-invented.) By 1964, she was cast in the long-awaited Broadway version of the life of Fanny Brice, Funny Girl. It was a smash. Broadway declared her the Second Coming of Ethel Merman and Mary Martin, unaware that the receptiveness of stage work bored her. She would never return to another stage production. More ecstatically reviewed—and popular—albums followed, as did a series of spectacular T.V. specials. In these ventures into television, Barbra was compelling, funny, sexy, beautiful in a new and exciting way. (It was okay to have a real nose!) In short, she was catnip to Hollywood. After touring London with Funny Girl,

Q50

/ SPRING 2 0 1 4

marriage to actor Elliott Gould and the birth of her only child, Jason, Barbra sailed into Hollywood, to star in William Wyler’s screen version of Funny Girl. She had also been signed to two more films. This, before anybody had the assurance she’d really “come across” on the giant movie screen. So, if she appeared overconfident to some, she was within reason to believe it, express it. Barbra’s reputation as abrasive, abusive, and a rabid know-it-all had preceded her. But for all the gossip and Streisand’s unfettered “advice,” she and Wyler, in fact, agreed on most aspects of the film. Funny Girl (and its soundtrack) were a smash. Was she a great actress? No. Vulnerability was still—and remains—difficult for her to express. (It’s there, but showing it too much, even for her art is, I believe, too painful.) But, oh, how charismatic, funny and beautiful she was. The very idea she was supposed to be an ugly duckling, “lucky” to snare Nicky Arnstein seemed absurd. Who wouldn’t want her, so ravishingly photographed by Harry Stradling? She won an Oscar, lured a lover (her co-star Omar Sharif) and lost her husband, Mr. Gould. She was now the Queen of Movies. Hello Dolly (miscast but adorable)…On a Clear Day You Can See Forever (superb in a beautiful but leaden production)…The Owl and the Pussycat

This page, clockwise from top left: Ryan O’Neal and Streisand in What’s Up Doc; A portrait of Barbra Streisand by Milton H. Greene, 1964; Kris Kristofferson and Streisand in A Star is Born, 1976; album cover of “My Name is Barbra,” released in 1965; Streisand posing for Philippe Halsman in her apartment for a Cosmopolitan magazine cover shoot, New York City, 1965; Omar Sharif and Streisand on the set of Funny Girl, 1968; Barbra Streisand Lazy Afternoon album sleeve photographed by Steve Schapiro, 1975. > Opposite page: Streisand in a scene from the film Funny Girl, 1968.

This page, clockwise from top left: Streisand and Ryan O’Neal in a scene from What’s Up Doc, 1972; Streisand and Robert Redford starring together in The Way We Were, 1973; Streisand on the set of Yentl, 1983; > Opposite page: Barbra Streisand, Jon Peters, and a guest at the premiere after-party for A Star Is Born at Tavern at the Green in New York City, 1976. > Inset:

(Riotously ribald as a stripper sparring with George Segal)… What’s Up Doc? (Her greatest comedy, and a new lover, co-star Ryan O’Neal. Also, she is probably at her physical peak here.) Up the Sandbox was a daring flop. But The Way We Were offered a monolith of romance and box-office success. As Katy, the firebrand liberal Jewish girl, attempting to win, wed, and change the beautiful blond of her dreams—Robert Redford—she had what was to many consider her signature role (and one of her signature songs—the title.) She was Oscar-nominated. A minor comedy followed, For Pete’s Sake. But forget the movie. It was during production Streisand met hairdresser Jon Peters. Sexy and commanding, he had, many asserted, an almost Svengali-like hold on the strong-willed Barbra (a.k.a. he was sensational in bed). After she was forced to make a sequel to Funny Girl, titled Funny Lady (she is good as an older, rougher Fanny) Peters told her image was stale; she was still a young woman, she should make movies and music in accord to her age. Result? The third version of A Star Is Born with Barbra as a rock singer, watching her hubby (Kris Kristofferson) drink himself to death. The production of this film was a public relations disaster, with the director, Frank Pierson, eviscerating Streisand and Peters (the latter acted as producer). Pierson’s condemnation was a giant version of all Streisand criticism that had come before; brutal and accepted on face value even by her fans. But it had long ago been established that part of Streisand’s appeal to

Q52

/ SPRING 2 0 1 4

her audience were qualities that drove those who worked with her crazy. (Or, as similarly entranced diva fan said later of Madonna: “We all know she’s a bitch. That’s why we love her!”) A Star is Born, despite withering reviews, was a mammoth hit, as was its soundtrack. Streisand shared an Oscar with Paul Williams for the song “Evergreen.” Two small movies followed, All Night Long (charming in a supporting role) and The Main Event (unfunny but reasonably successful.) Her music career flourished with slightly more modern sounds and collaborations with the likes of the Bee Gees. But her labor of love was upon her. She had bought the rights to Isaac Bashevis Singer’s small, touching play, Yentl, about a Jewish girl who disguises herself as a boy, so as to attend school and become better educated. The film version would not be small. It became a musical, with only Barbra singing, of course. She would direct and produce. She chose the cast, cameraman, costumes. The result was exquisite and moving, if perhaps containing a few too many Barbara solos. Yentl, dedicated to her father, was a hit. There was no sensible criticism of her director’s vision and skill. Streisand’s exclusion from the Oscars in the directing category caused something of a scandal. Nuts would follow, probably her most successful attempt as a dramatic actress—she was in her element, brash and defensive. Crying convincingly was still an effort, but all in all, her Claudia Draper was splendid. The star was undone (again!) by

O p po s i te p a ge : P h o to b y Ro n Ga le ll a/ Wi re Im a ge

Barbra Streisand photographed by Steven Meisel for Vogue, 1997.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

This page, clockwise from top left: Prince Charles visits Barbra Streisand at MGM Studios in Culver City, California, 1974; Streisand in the kitchen of her New York City apartment photographed by Bill Eppridge, 1964; Prince William mingling with James Brolin and Barbra Streisand during BAFTA’s Brits to Watch dinner at the Belasco Theatre in Los Angeles, 2011 > Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Anne Francis as “Georgia James,” Walter Pidgeon as “Florenz Ziegfeld,” and Barbra Streisand as “Fanny Brice” in Funny Girl, 1968; Streisand performing in Barbra Streisand: Back to Brooklyn, 2013; A scene from What’s Up Doc, 1972; Streisand in Funny Girl, 1968; Streisand being photographed by Steven Meisel for Vogue, 1993; the actress in 1962; Ryan O’Neal and Streisand in What’s Up Doc, 1972; Streisand’s Duets album released in 2002.

accusations of “taking the movie away” from the director, and, frankly, miscasting. Streisand looked remarkable for a woman in her late 40s, but the public knew her age, and would not accept the film’s premise that her character was a $500-a-trick call girl. Nuts seems much better now than it did upon release in 1987. The Prince of Tides and The Mirror Has Two Faces followed— producing, directing, starring. Tides was expertly directed and she drew a superb performance from Nick Nolte. Streisand’s own presence onscreen—the famously long nails, the hair, the short skirts—was distracting to the max. She surely didn’t mean it to be, but her persona was overpowering. It was a hit. Of The Mirror Has Two Faces, the less said the better. It was not successful. By this point, Barbra had returned to recording the classic standards that had brought her fame, and that return was eagerly applauded. She had also embarked on a series of concert tours, after decades of avoiding anything more sustained that single concerts, usually

Q54

/ SPRING 2 0 1 4

associated with one of her myriad political causes. (She claimed stage fright had hobbled her, because she forgot lyrics during her classic 1967 concert in Central Park.) These tours continue, though each time one finishes, she says, “No more!” (Streisand and Cher are sisters under the “never say never” skin.) Her movie work now is negligible—the Meet the Fockers films. (“I’m lazy,” she says when asked why she appears in such movies.) The Guilt Trip with Seth Rogen was, however, surprisingly sweet. She continues to talk of another Gypsy remake, but even her staunchest fans believe that time has passed. I saw Barbra onstage last year in her “Back to Brooklyn” stint in…Brooklyn. She sang. No political statements, just the pleasure of her company. The voice has matured, naturally and beautifully. She knows where her power is, and how to savor the low notes and save the high ones for when they are really needed. She has become an even greater artist.

But the last time I saw her close up was after her acclaimed onenight-only performance down in the Village for a select group of fans and friends. She appeared for the press in the Louis XVI suite at the Waldorf=Astoria. Unlike other times I’d observed her, she circulated enthusiastically, much less wary and hesitant than she often is with the media. Where was the girl with the eyes narrow with suspicion in this slender, beautifully coiffed, gracious, open woman? Does time heal everything? Not at all. Nor do Oscars, Emmys, Tonys, Grammys, innumerable gold records, and records broken in every medium. Barbra Streisand remains a woman still searching, if not to find herself, then to better understand the self she is and, in many ways, always has been. (“It’s taken more years on more analysts’

couches to sing this song and really mean it,” she declares now, before launching into “On a Clear Day”) Her marriage endures, her devotion of her son is fierce and loving, her politics unabashed and unafraid. At age 71 she is still young. (2014 is not your mother’s 71.) She has time to work and look ahead. And reflect. But reflection is not looking back. Barbra has her eye on the prize, and that prize is being whole for her friends, family, and her art. If we approve, she’s OK with that. But she’d rather we do the same for ourselves and let her evolve as she wants. She appreciates her fans—and her stardom—more than she did during the feverish height of her career. But she appreciates her life more. And she’ll never explain to us why. It should obvious. It’s her life—no? u

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

This page: Barbra Streisand holding her Best Actress Oscar for her performance in Funny Girl at the 41st Academy Awards in 1969. > Inset: Barbra Streisand and James Brolin arrive at a State Dinner For Chinese President Hu Jintao at the White House, 2011. > Opposite page: Barbra Streisand at the premiere

O p po s i te : M ax B . M i lle r / Fot os I nt e r n ati o n al/Getty Imag es

of The Way We Were, 1973 .

SPRING 2014/

Q57

Taylor Made by

Q58

/ SPRING 2014

L i ly H o a g l a n d

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

Fashion Profile New Zealand native Rebecca Taylor knows how to mix it up. She has developed a cult following for her “tough girl chic” look, which combines flowy feminine silhouettes with unexpected bold accents to create a sexy look that even the Duchess of Cambridge can’t resist. The kiwi designer opens up about where her style comes from:

Co u r te sy o f Re be c ca Tay lo r

Lily Hoagland: The Spring 2014 collection seems to be a softer look than what you’ve been doing recently. Was it an interest in different palettes or just a natural choice for the time of year that prompted the change? Rebecca Taylor: I’m naturally drawn to lighter colors for the spring and summer, it’s what I feel like wearing. For this season in particular, I was feeling a lot of white.

S T Y L E

This page: Designer Rebecca Taylor, New Zealand native, believes in her country’s attitude of “anything is possible,” and incorporates that spirit into her designs. > Opposite page: One of the sunny looks from her Spring 2014 collection, which displays Taylor’s softer side.

LH: As a favorite designer of “It” girls everywhere, how would you counsel women to develop their own individual style? RT: I think accessories are a great place to start. Buy a great shoe or purse in a color or pattern you are fond of, then you can build the wardrobe around that.

LH: What is your favorite part of mixing feminine and masculine elements? RT: I just think there’s something really cool about mixing those elements, it looks both stylish and unexpected. Wearing something overtly feminine like a dress with a pair of great trainers or oxfords just feels really polished.

LH: If the airline lost all of your luggage, what is the one outfit you would pick to keep? RT: I’m going to LA in about a month for some store appearances and to visit family. It’s hard to say, but I’d probably keep my Italian army pants that I’ve had for years—I keep repatching them. In the summer, definitely my Victorian eyelet dresses. They’re just so easy that time of year.

LH: You’re often described as being able to convey the essence of “modern femininity”—what does that phrase mean to you? RT: To me, modern femininity means incorporating those small touches of femininity while still looking elevated and cool.

LH: Is there any credo or motto that inspires you? RT: I’m from New Zealand, and there’s a prevailing attitude there that “anything is possible.” I try to carry this sentiment with me in work and in life. u SPRING 2014/

Q59

Cour tesy of resp ective d esig ners

S T Y L E

Dolce & Gabbana

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

Runway Roundup by

Q60

/ SPRING 2014

A l e x R . T ra v e r s

and

Elizabeth Meigher

Va l e n t i n o

Marchesa

McQ by Alexander McQueen

Birds Of A Feather Whether it was Prabal Gurung’s frocks full of feathers or McQ by McQueen’s mining of the macabre, we took

rather predatory trend this season.

Marni

Alfred Hitchc ock, Tippi He dren, and so feathered fri me ends on the set of The Bi rds, where th plumes coul e d be both pr etty and pe trifying.

Giles

Nicole Miller

P ra b a l G u r u n g

pleasure in fashion’s

Co u r te sy o f re sp e ct i ve d e si g ne r s

C h r i s t o p h e Le m a i r e

Lanvin

Jane B irkin p erson ifies e duste r. This ffor tle ss chic timele ss pic many in a sle t u re w design eveles as, no ersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; m s doubt ood b , on oards fo r t h e Fa ll 2014 s eason .

S T Y L E

Miu Miu

Haider Ackermann

D a v i d Ko m a

C re a t u re s o f C o m f o r t

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

Dusters Fall certainly seems to favor the mysteriousâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; and these jackets have the power to hide or reveal secrets. After all,

D s q u a re d 2

Public School

Isabel Marant

Elie Saab

to the femme fatale?

Ra l p h L a u r e n

Proenza Schouler

Richard Nicoll

who isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t attracted

SPRING 2014/

Q63

Honor

E m a n u e l U n g a ro

A n t o n i o M a r ra s

Dolce & Gabbana

Thakoon

D r i e s va n N o t e n

Lo u i s Vu i t t o n

Jea n Sh rim pto n has alw ays bee n a sym bo l of perfection. The flow ers in her hair only add ed to the English modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chi c style and buddin g beauty.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

Florals Flowers usually symbolize beauty and femininity. But this season, the colors were richer, darker: picture the sun descending on a tropical paradise. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

C ou r te sy o f re sp e cti ve de si gn e r s

Ve ro n i c a B e a r d

to the night ahead...

SPRING 2014/

Q65

Q66

/ SPRING 2014

M a r y K a t ra n t z o u

Ve r s a c e

Va l e n t i n o

A tid y Tw ig gy pa in ts th e pe rf ec t pi mod look. Li ct ure of th e ke the model ’s fame, it se ems the swin ’60s style sp ging read worldw ide this seas on.

Gucci Saint Laurent

To m Fo r d

Shiatzy Chen

D s q u a re d 2

Lo u i s Vu i t t o n

S T Y L E

C a r ve n

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

Ra c h e l Zo e

Mod Models Surprisingly, it was mostly the Italians who went mod this season. Some of those Valentino and Gucci girls looked like the babes that used to bang on David

Co u r te sy o f re sp e ct i ve d e si g ne r s

Baileyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s door.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

Opposite page: “It is the story of the professional birth of Veruschka,” says Franca Sozzani of the book.

Like We’ve Never Seen Her

Elizabeth Meigher

photographs by

VERA GOTTLIEBE ANNA Gräfin von Lehndorff-Steinort was born on May 14, 1939, in Königsberg, East Prussia. Her mother was the former Countess Gottliebe von Kalnein and her father was Count Heinrich Ahasverus von Lehndorff of Germany, an army reserve officer who became a key member of the German Resistance during World War II after witnessing Jewish children being beaten and killed. For a short time, Vera enjoyed a charmed life with her three sisters, residing at Steinhort, an estate in East Prussia that had been in her family for centuries. In 1944, when Vera was five years old, her father was executed for participating in the famous Operation Valkyrie plot to kill Adolf Hitler inside the Wolf’s Lair military headquarters. Soon,

Q68

/ SPRING 2014

Johnny Moncada

her mother was arrested and Vera and her sisters spent the rest of the war in Nazi labor camps. When World War II ended in 1945, the family was distraught and homeless. Vera attended 13 different schools before studying art at a college in Hamburg. At the age of 20, Vera moved to Florence, Italy, where she was discovered by photographer Ulo Mulas and began a career in modeling. At over six feet, it was difficult for the towering, unconventional-looking Vera to find work. Vera managed to secure a contract with Dorian Leigh’s Paris-based agency, who exclaimed, “You look great, but you have big feet. You are too tall and have too much of a baby face. I will have a hard time finding jobs for you.” The Ford

Courtesy of Rizzoli

S T Y L E

Modeling Agency in New York worked in collaboration with Dorian Leigh, and the agencies often exchanged models. One day, Eileen Ford happened to be in town and told Vera, “We like tall blondes in America.” Vera gathered all of her savings and headed off to New York City. Today, the model describes her first trip to New York as “tough, disappointing, and totally unsuccessful.” Vera returned to Paris and was fortunate to befriend Denise Sarrault, an elegant and well-respected French model. Serrault took the young, struggling Vera under her wing and introduced her to a slew of high-profile photographers, including Italy’s Johnny Moncada. “Later I went back to New York and this time it was a success—I changed and became Veruschka.” After her initial unsuccessful visit, Vera returned to Manhattan

Q70

/ SPRING 2014

Courtesy of Rizzoli

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

This page: Veruschka began her career in Rome in the 1960s. > Opposite page: “Even though I had evolved into Veruschka,” the model and icon once noted, “in Johnny Moncada’s photos I always remained Vera.”

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

This page: “Having a look of sadness in my eyes is my biggest problem in this job. My eyes are indeed sad, even if I’m smiling in the picture. Even if I’m not sad it looks as if I am,” wrote Veruschka in a letter to her mother. > Opposite page: Hamish Bowles says of the model: “Strongjawed, towering, magnificent, crowned by a lioness’s mane, Veruschka was, from the beginning, a model chameleon.”

Q72

/ SPRING 2014

Courtesy of Rizzoli

in the early sixties with a new, exotic name: Veruschka. She dressed fully in black and went to see all the top photographers, exclaiming: “I am Veruschka, who comes from the border between Russia, Germany, and Poland. I’d like to see what you can do with my face.” The brazen approach of the striking model—with her strong jaw and improbably long limbs—did the trick, and Veruschka went on to become one of the most sought-after models of the era. She appeared on 13 covers of Vogue, and Life famously dubbed her “Veruschka: The Girl Everybody Stares At” when she graced its cover in 1967. She worked with the top photographers, including Irving Penn, Salvador Dalí, Peter Beard, and Richard Avedon, who called her “the most beautiful woman in the world.” But for many years, a large collection of Veruschka’s earliest work went unseen by the public eye—that is, until 40 years later, when Johnny Moncada revealed to his daughter, Valentina, that he had left a trove of

This page: Vera returned to Manhattan with a new exotic name: Veruschka. She dressed fully in black and visited all the top photographers, exclaiming: “I am Veruschka, who comes from the border between Russia, Germany, and Poland. I’d like to see what you can do with my face.” > Opposite page: Veruschka went on to become one of the most soughtafter models of the era.

Courtesy of Rizzoli

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

extraordinary images of the budding young Veruschka locked in trunks in the attic. After Moncada’s death in 2011, Valentina was able to assemble 3,000 magnificent photos that her father had taken of the young and impressionable Veruschka during a dreamlike journey through Italy that spanned Rome, Capri, Florence, Sardinia, and various locales of la dolce vita. Johnny Moncada’s photos—compiled in Veruschka: From Vera to Veruschka (Rizzoli)—present a rare glimpse of the blossoming Vera, who would transform into the Amazonian icon of style known as Veruschka. Of her enchanting summer spent with Moncada in the early sixties, Veruschka recalls that the kind Italian photographer “allowed me to be myself.” She reminisces: “Perhaps you can see the beginnings of this transformation in Johnny’s photographs.” Today, Veruschka appreciates, “Even though I had evolved into Veruschka, in Johnny’s photos I always remained Vera.” u

S T Y L E

BFAnyc.com

An Art Basel Breakdown by

Elizabeth Kurpis

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

This page: Samantha and Dawn Goldworm at W’s Stefano Tonchi and Vionnet’s Goga Ashkenazi Celebrate the Opening of Pérez Art Museum Miami (PAMM) event; Stefano Tonchi and Goga Ashkenazi (inset). > Opposite page: Ric Pipino celebrates the opening of PAMM.

SPRING 2014/

Q77

S T Y L E

Snowflakes fall sleepily from the sky, descending upon us layer by layer, adorning trees with a soft, white blanket. For once, New York is at ease. Those living in a city where its residents hardly stop for anything can’t help but show their admiration for the beauty and tranquility the first snowfall of winter brings. Within days, however, this fairytale scene vanishes. What we are left with is a reality where fluffy, white snow is reduced to a muddy slush—thickening darkness overcomes our day’s sky, and a chill is in the air that reaches the very depths of our core. Nothing seems crueler than a New York Winter. So, when the first week of December approaches, many of the city’s social set embark on a much welcomed reprieve to Art Basel Miami Beach. Art Basel is an annual event at Miami’s main convention center, a place where galleries from around the globe come to unload and promote their latest wares and artists. Although smaller satellite fairs like NADA and SCOPE have popped up during Art Basel Miami in recent years, a day spent solely at the convention center provides more than enough entertainment. The sheer size and volume of works being displayed is dizzying, as is the center’s square footage. Hold on tight to those in tow, because should you be separated, you will need to break out the GPS if you ever want to see them again. Nonetheless, a standout for me was the oversize pieces by Jack Pierson, a man who knows how to draw a crowd and keep them talking. This year, a clear winner was his sign spelling “Motherfucker,” made to look like letters cut from newspapers and magazines, similar to ransom notes from T.V. series past. The year prior, it was his collaboration with Morgan Hotel Group, entitled “Plane Text,” that got people’s attention. Planes were

Q78

/ SPRING 2014

flown over the sandy Miami beaches with banners of original text reading, “We’re rich we can do what we want,” and more. If you say so, Jack. The fun doesn’t end there, of course. For better or worse, the main draw for most of those in attendance is the glittering merger of fashion and art in a booze-filled, party-ridden week that can exhaust even the most seasoned scene chaser. Parties each day and night run well into the double digits and fill every corner of Miami. The most important thing to remember? Pace yourself. Suppress that ubiquitous fear of missing out. I kept this in mind when I arrived and quickly threw on my Tribune Standard lemon-print skirt and headed to my first stop at the Soho Beach House. Harper’s Bazaar and MCM were celebrating the launch of the limited-edition Beyond Snowdome collection with pop-art duo Craig Redman and Karl Maier. A relaxing, breeze-infused afternoon gathering, it was the perfect way to ease into the Art Basel madness that was about to begin. The parties and champagne toasts roared on that evening at the ultra exclusive opening celebration of the Pérez Art Museum Miami, founded to facilitate engagement with the most progressive visual arts of our time. The party was hosted by W Magazine’s Stefano Tonchi and Vionnet’s Goga Ashkenazi. Alessandra Ambrosio, Brian Atwood, Casey Fremont Crowe, Hannah Bronfman, Jessica Hart, and Vladimir Restoin Roifteld watched on as Suspension of Disbelief premiered, a short film by Tim Walker, inspired by his portfolio in the December issue of W. The next afternoon was brunch-filled, with Oliver Peoples hosting at The Webster (and Ruinart at Casa Tua). Afternoon quickly turned to evening, and after a brief stop to change into my silver beaded Theyskens Theory skirt, I made my way back to the Soho Beach House for the Artsy and Valentino private dinner. Following the dimly lit, palm tree–lined boardwalk, I made my way to the oceanfront tent where we celebrated CalArts School of Art’s newest addition, the John Baldessari Studios. The school’s dean, Thomas Lawson, made brief remarks presenting the new studio building and accompanying fundraising initiative to a captive crowd, which included Artsy’s founder and C.E.O. Carter Cleveland, Atlanta de Cadenet, Harley Viera-Newton, Lisa Anastos, Nicky Hilton, and Zani Gugelmann. Once I had a proper meal, easily overlooked during Art Basel and the source of some not so friendly “hangry” encounters, I headed out to the No. 8 pop-up lounge at the James Royal Palm. Never one to miss out on a good time, LDV Hospitality also hosted a pop-up for Chez André at the Rec Room, with nightly parties meant to keep the momentum going into the wee hours of the night for those with the endurance of a marathoner. By Saturday, the champagne haze was getting to me, and I was desperate for a little R and R. I decided to head over to the Mondrian Hotel for some poolside yoga with Grey Area’s Kyle DeWoody and the debut of their eco-friendly yoga mats cre-

BFA n yc. co m

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

This page, clockwise from top left: Kristen McMenamy, Stefano Tonchi, and Goga Ashkenazi at the opening of Pérez Art Museum Miami (PAMM); André Saraiva and Andre Balazs Celebrating Artist of the Day: Takashi Murakami; Thelma Golden at the opening of PAMM; Jane Holzer at PAMM; Jessica Hart at PAMM; David Maupin and Angel Otero at PAMM; Hannah Bronfman at PAMM; Amanda Hearst at PAMM; Vincent and Shelly Fremont at PAMM; Eva Chow, Simon and Michaela de Pury at PAMM; Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos at PAMM; Kate Foley and Kyleigh Kuhn at PAMM; Arslan and Ece Sukan at PAMM; Kim Heirston Evans and Audrey Gruss at PAMM; Author Elizabeth Kurpis in Kennebunkport, Maine. Opposite page; Virgil Abloh at W magazine’s Stefano Tonchi and Vionnet’s Goga Ashkenazi celebrate the opening of PAMM.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

This page, clockwise from top left: Ana Beatriz Barros at W magazine’s Stefano Tonchi and Vionnet’s Goga Ashkenazi Celebrate the Opening of PAMM event; James Goldstein at PAMM; Philippe Jousse st PAMM; Lisa Anastos at PAMM; Kyleigh Kuhn, Kate Foley, Erin Beatty, and Max Osterweis at PAMM; Tony Oursler at PAMM; Moran Atias at PAMM; Casey Fremont Crowe and Doreen Remen at PAMM; André Saraiva and Marc Spiegler at a cocktail party Celebrating Artist of the Day: Takashi Murakami. > Opposite page: Rossana Orlandi at W magazine’s Stefano Tonchi and Vionnet’s Goga Ashkenazi celebrate the opening of PAMM.

ated by some of the hottest contemporary artists. Some drew inspiration from the practice of yoga, while others looked to the mechanics of the mat itself. Take, for example, the Jon Kessler–designed mat I was given for the hour, which featured a $100 bill, lines of cocaine, and a razor blade. His line of thinking? What else is flat like a yoga mat and could also be rolled? Dollar bills, naturally, and from there it was the progression of what one could do with that dollar bill. Ignoring the irony of the situation, I made my best attempt at a Warrior III pose along Biscayne Bay among the “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” installation. The exhibit was meant to represent a physical manifestation of the rainbow spectrum in a colorful, translucent, toy-like inflatable world. Each color is supposed to correspond to a different emotion, urging each visitor to reflect on their inner state. Just what the doctor ordered... Heading home the following morning, I used my last bit of motivation Saturday night to slip into a Roberto Cavalli dress (a Miami staple) and make my way to a relaxing dinner at Juvia atop the Lincoln Road parking garage. With their vertical gardens and stunning views of Miami Beach and beyond, I was finally able to reflect on my week’s activities. With a few accidental clicks of the heels of my red Prada shoes, I couldn’t help but think, “[a]s thrilling as the Art Basel whirlwind can be, there’s no place like home.” A polar vortex? Bring it on, New York. I think I’m finally ready. u

Q80

/ SPRING 2014

BFA n yc. co m

Runway Review by

Q82

/ SPRING 2014

A l e x R . T ra v e r s

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

This page, from top: The soundtrack always plays an important role in fashion: Dan and Dean Caten’s well-researched tracklist for their Dsquared2 women’s Fall 2014 catwalk show; Rupert Sanderson heels were used to style Veronica Beard’s Fall 2014 presentation, which took place at the High Line Hotel in New York; Carolina Herrera’s Fall 2014 finale at Lincoln Center. > Opposite: A coat by designer Wes Gordon.

Pa tr i c k Mc Mu lla n

D sq ua re d2 ; BFAn yc .c o m ;

Co u r te sy o f We s Go rdo n / C ou r t e sy o f

What surprised me, after watching a number of the women’s shows for Fall 2014, was how beautifully conceived many of the themes were this year. Here in New York, it felt as if designers were actually excited to take risks. Carolina Herrera played with new proportions. Diesel Black Gold’s Andreas Melbostad looked to the spacesuit for inspiration. And, Alexander Wang, 30, broke a fashion barrier by presenting his extremely functional collection in…gasp…Brooklyn. The catwalks in Milan were as sexy as ever, Giorgio Armani elevated his suiting in a remarkably modern manner. But it was a great year for Paris, especially: Chanel, Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu, and Rick Owens all put on shows that we’ll be talking about long after next season is over.

S T Y L E

> Carolina Herrera With different styling, Carolina Herrera’s Fall 2014 collection may have played more safely, like her previous fall catwalk show that felt like a nod to the Dietrich era. But there was a drive in Herrera’s artistic direction that gave a few of her girls—and garments—an advanced, unexpected feel. As she put it: “I’m trying to go to the future.” For a designer as talented as Herrera, adjusting proportions was hardly a problem, particularly when it came to fuller geometries and shapes, which were evident in her silhouettes this season. The challenge was the obvious downscale in volume—at the end of the day, the clothes have to be desirable. The daywear was nicely done. Pony skirts and cashmere sweaters were carefully rounded, not engulfing the model yet adding a suitable shape. Cocktail wear was best when the prints were out of play, but a silk dress with black organza embroidery was delightful, beautifully wrapped together with a velvet belt in a rich turquoise. The designer also used velvet—this time in a deep mahogany—to tie together the most stunning dress in her collection: a silk, double-faced Georgette gown in ivory. The entire experience of the show was actually about familiarity and discovery, sculpting new volumes on classic wares and creating pieces for that select group of women who are looking for more than just fashion. > Ralph Lauren The elemental focus of Ralph Lauren’s show was something to cherish. If Spring ’14 made you think of lurid colors, then Fall ’14 made the transition from shining to subtle. While the collection featured whites and shell-like pinks, gray was the color du jour—the gray of the fog and the Hitchcock women in matching outfits that emerged. In fact, Lauren kept having a go at the tone as if he were Scottie Ferguson in Vertigo trying to find just the right suit to bring his image of Madeleine back to life. Except the designer’s obsession with neutrals translated into something wonderful. One of the most appealing aspects of the clothes was that they looked so natural. Lauren seemed to be thinking about women like Kim Novack, Eva Marie Saint, and Ingrid Bergman. For his new collection, you could imagine the ladies Lauren had on his mind were the actresses’ contemporary counterparts: the icy Katia Kokoreva in a pearl gray suiting dress; the dashing Charlotte Hoyer with her fine-knit cashmere turtleneck sweater resting over that flowing jersey skirt; and an ever-so-elegant Val Zelyaeva in a gray silk cady evening dress. He’d clearly thought about passion, too, as the models ambled down the runway in strapless gowns with shoulders waiting to be kissed.

Q84

/ SPRING 2014

Co ur te s y o f C a ro li n a H e r rera; Patrick McMullan / Cour tesy of Ralp h Lauren

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

This page, from right: Charlotte Hoyer walks in Ralph Lauren’s Fall 2014 runway show; Ralph Lauren accessories; Karlie Kloss poses backstage; Sasha Luss models a gray suit from the Ralph Lauren Fall 2014 collection. > Opposite, clockwise from top left: Carolina Herrera’s Fall 2014 finale; models backstage before the show; a “night shadow” wool flannel dress with double triangle silk twill print appliqué by Carolina Herrera; more backstage action at Lincoln Center.

admitted—a sporty yet sexy aesthetic. In his words: “I wanted to create a wardrobe built for survival against the elements.” Melbostad did that to great effect. Take his protective coatdresses, which offered layers of structured fabric. Or his perfectly tailored trousers: tough, thick, and anatomically cut from leather or coated cotton with engineered seams that gave the leg a lean, long look. Or those hypnotic, mirror-like discs on his dresses and blouses that looked like solar panels reflecting light. His women, he said, shimmered. They were explorers with no specific destination in mind. Maybe it was companionship they craved. Space can, after all, be quite lonely. But now that Melbostad has taken over the men’s wear, he’s added another variable to the DBG equation. Was yesterday’s showcase the first chapter of a love story? There were hints of romance—sheer blouses, soft wools, corseted dresses—but he didn’t insist on it. “I want the girls to be very powerful and partners, in some form, with the men. I don’t know what form. It’s an open world.” > Dennis Basso Dennis Basso’s Fall 2014 show opened with day and evening wear in white and black, then headed into colorful territory, to glossy, rich hues of deep cerise and cherry red, where dressing could be both desirable and delectable. In those shades you could find crocodile jackets, chinchillas, and gowns for all generations of Basso women. While his clothes suggested volume—full-skirted gowns, fluffy snow leopard furs, slashed dressed with tulip-like silhouettes—they allowed for fluidity in movement. And, like last season, he reintroduced his artistic side. Which was certainly a reminder that Basso is perfectly capable of repainting the pieces his clients adore.

Co u r te sy o f D i e se l Bla c k Go ld / Co ur te s y o f D en ni s B as so ; Patr i c k Mc Mu lla n

> Diesel Black Gold For Diesel Black Gold’s Fall 2014 collection, Andreas Melbostad mined ideas from the mythic world of space. “It was part research on authentic astronaut suits and part investigation into designs that were influenced by science fiction,” he said. You could see that Sci-Fi influence as soon Julia Nobis strutted down the catwalk in a waxy silver parka with ribbed sleeves. She later put on a silver sleeveless tank (armor?) and matching moto pants. Both of those outfits represented the realities of space travel in one way or another. But the designer has always been interested in the utility and function of clothes. That’s why he used fabrics like neoprene and compact jersey to give his dresses—“the newest thing for me,” he

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

This page, from right: Dennis Basso poses with his models backstage at Lincoln Center; the designer is known for using fur in all of his shows, no matter the season; an evening look makes its way down the runway; Bassoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s take on the tea-length dress. > Opposite, clockwise from above: The set at Diesel Black Goldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s catwalk show, which took place at the James A. Farley Post Office Building in New York; a model poses backstage; mirror-like discs on jackets shined on DBG the runway.

SPRING 2014/

Q87

S T Y L E

> Dsquared2 Dean and Dan Caten’s Dsquared2 girls looked like portraits of troubled stars stuck in a psych ward, trying on their favorite outfits, dreaming of escape. It managed to be, all at once, excessive, glamorous, and oddly affectionate. If the women wanted to play dress up and wander around, they were escorted by night nurses in white décolleté jackets and slashed shirts, fiercely devoted to watching the models’ every move (high heels with pad-locked cuffs as ankle straps were a witty touch). But Dan and Dean’s clothes and accessories shined through the show’s grand illusions. The daywear—brightly colored python sheaths, sexy lingerie, ’60s-style jackets—was absolutely likeable, sure to satisfy their loyal customers. And the evening gowns, a feathered white column and a satin-y sleeveless purple number, had enough allure. So even if these girls were temporarily locked away, their lives didn’t seem bad at all.

Q88

/ SPRING 2014

> Giorgio Armani It’s surprising how Giorgio Armani can turn tradition into something so avant-garde. Here, he did it with his suiting, quietly irresistible separates that were the highlight of the collection. It was the softness of those pieces saved them from formality. Among a handful of jackets, the first two—a single lapel on the opening looking, a single button on the following—were the standouts, reducing the garments to their simplest form. But their patterns, textures, and fabrics gave them life, shape, and movement. The languid trousers in just slightly different shades of gray helped, too. In sum, the suiting was exceptional; the dresses were pleasant. On the runway was a strip of lime green, projected from the lights that hovered above the catwalk. That color ran a wide, interesting, and clever gamut: lined on a buttonhole, piped on a scarf, ombréd on a jacket, splattered on a skirt. “Lime green is a color that stands out,” Armani said. “It’s a stimulating color.” But his show was titled, “Fade to Grey,” and that idea of devenir gris (when you revisit the YouTube video of the runway show, you’ll hear an instrumental version of the Visage song) was a watchword: if the lime green vanished from the limelight, the collection’s charm wouldn’t have lost a thing.

Cour tesy of Dsquared 2 / Cour tesy o f Gio rgio Arm a n i

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

This page: A number of looks from the Giorgio Armani Fall 2014 collection, which featured great dresses and exceptional suiting. > Opposite: Intro and finale images of Dean and Dan Catenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dsquared2 runway in Milan. The designers set their show in a psych ward and nurses escorted the models down the catwalk; these clever Dsquared2 shoes with ankle straps are sure to keep you bound to the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s witty fashions (inset).

S T Y L E

> Nonoo In rethinking architect Louis Kahn’s design philosophy on natural light and space, Misha Nonoo made sure to do the right thing: not over complicate it. And that made one sharp metaphor for a collection that—emphasized by transparency, line, and color—underscored purity and simplicity. The crux of Kahn’s style, however, was marked by its monumental and monolithic characteristics. He never masked the weight of his creations. Yet Nonoo’s Fall 2014 showcase was feminine and delicate. Where she drew inspiration from was the architect’s weaving and splicing techniques, which you could see in her raglan-knit sweater with interwoven panels and metallic ribbing, for example, or the honeycomb mesh pencil skirts. Or even the Georgette sheaths with organza panels that revealed flashes of flesh. The designer has already visited some of these ideas, organza windows and rich textures, in the past. But in creating this collection she revisited her archives to reanimate a whole lot more: a blushing ruby wool coat; a crêpe de chine and cotton dress; a silk top with sheer trim; and, as always, the feminine nonchalance of an immaculately dressed woman. Nonoo said they were women with timeless appeal. Romance seemed their obvious intention. But what would be their destiny? > Louis Vuitton Nicolas Ghesquière’s first show for Louis Vuitton, set against a backdrop of natural light, was really a story about what women want and need, according to the designer who simply listened to the ladies around him (smart man). On the soundtrack was Skream’s “Copy Cat.” Which felt appropriate as Ghesquière, 43, is one of the most copied designers and Vuitton, approaching its 160th anniversary, one of the most copied labels. There was no need for a microscope to spot Ghesquière’s DNA: helical, hand-cut feathers swirled around belted A-line shifts; his rounded geometries yielded sinuous seams; and, most importantly, his women wore the clothes, not the other way around. The key was in the execution, replacing an attempt for attention with a keen presentation of contemporary dressing. Helping make his introduction was an emphasis on clean, desirable lines. What stood out were the luxurious fabrics (wild croc, leather, suede), sleek knits, and, of course, the new Petite Malle bag, a miniature version of the classic Vuitton trunk. Like Raf Simons at Dior, Ghesquière seemed focused on functionality. It’s clear that Vuitton’s new designer has a singular voice, one that questions everything, and his collection was a smart, striking acknowledgement of that individuality.

Co u r te sy o f N o n o o

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

Clockwise from top left: Louis Vuitton’s women’s Fall 2014 finale, which look place at the Cour Carrée in Paris; Skream’s “Copy Cat” played at the show, emphasizing that Vuitton is one of the most copied labels in the world; Valery Kaufman walks down the catwalk in a belted LV shift dress; designer Nicolas Ghesquière takes a bow after his much-anticipated first show for the label (inset). > Opposite: Images from Nonoo’s Fall 2014 runway show at Eyebeam Studios in New York; a drawing by Louis Kahn, the architect that Misha Nonoo was inspired by for her latest collection (inset).

SPRING 2014/

Q91

S T Y L E

> Wes Gordon Last season, Wes Gordon presented his first catwalk show. After that clever and perceptive debut, his woman had all the confidence she needed for fall. Warmth was certainly a reference point. And how’s adventure for another? A new version of a camisole dress with trumpet hemline seemed to appeal to the designer’s dreamy side. But the way he paired oversized sweaters with three quarter–length dresses anchored his collection as something entirely modern, even urgent. It personified a woman escaping formality, wandering into the rainy cold of the night. Picture Scarlett Johansson in Match Point or any of those cinematic starlets who let their passions run rampant. The designer was quoted describing the show’s inspiration as “the city after a rain.” Yet Gordon’s clothes have little to do with the elements and everything to do with the new identity that has shaped his aesthetic since he started showing on the runway: languid, flowing, wonderfully tailored garments made for a woman whose elegance is key to her appeal. > Veronica Beard If there was ever anything fundamentally wrong with turning a fashion presentation into a festivity, I’ve never found it. “It’s like a party,” said Veronica Swanson Beard, of the Veronica Beard Fall 2014 showcase, held at the High Line Hotel. “Well, we try to make it one.”

Mission accomplished. Chelsea Leyland, fashion DJ extraordinaire, skillfully shuffled between something recorded yesterday and Escort’s “Cocaine Blues.” You know how that song goes: “A knife, a fork, a bottle, and a cork / That’s the way we spell New York.” But it wasn’t a New York girl the Veronicas were channeling. It was, rather, “the ultimate Californian girl” who served as inspiration for the collection. You could picture her bouncing between parties at the Beverly Hills Hotel and the Troubadour in that gold foil tux jacket and matching high-waisted skinny trousers (the model in that outfit even looked like a kissing cousin to Jamie Bochert). Of course, you can’t talk about a Veronica Beard collection without bringing up the dickey. This season, they were subtler than usual: a black Ottoman-knit moto version was paired with a jacquard sweatshirt. It was almost invisible. But that pared-back practicality played well with this new darker, more subversive side. Veronica Swanson Beard once said, “There are so many designers out there trying to create fantasy. We’re trying to create reality.” This time around, they went bone deep in creating a new narrative—and it worked. After all, fantasies, sometimes, do come to true. u

Co u r te sy o f We s Go rdo n / C ou r t e sy o f Vero n i ca B e ard; B FAn yc .c om

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

This page: It was nothing short of a party at Veronica Beard’s Fall 2014 presentation, which took place at the High Line Hotel in New York. Chelsea Leyland (pictured center) DJed as the Veronicas showed off their stylish wears in a new, darker context that paired well with their collection. > Opposite: Looks from Wes Gordon’s Fall 2014 catwalk show. It was the designer’s second time showing on the runway, and affection and adventure seemed to be two themes that were weaved into his chic sophomore collection. For more runway coverage and other reviews by Alex R. Travers, please visit questmag.com.

SPRING 2014/

Q93

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

C O A S T T O C O A S T N E W YO R K

Q Focus 1

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

C O A S T T O C O A S T N E W YO R K

Pa trick M cM u lla n

New York

The Living, a film from Shooting Films—a New York–based independent film production company comprised of director-writer-producer Jack Bryan and producers Laura DuBois and John Snyder—premiered in association with the TriBeCa Institute on April 19. Following the screening, there was an after-party at the Catch Rooftop, where guests enjoyed cocktails by Svedka and music by DJ Cash. “I wanted to make a film that tackled real characters and relationships. I sought out to make a thriller that was beautiful, exciting, and incredibly effecting,” said Bryan.

1. Kenny Wormald 2. Chris Wilson and Phoebe Eaton 3. Alexandra Michler, Edward Barsamian, and Sarah Michler 4. Christina Keyser and Austin Bryan 5. Jeremy Davidson, Laura DuBois, and Jennifer Leevan 6. Stevie Steel and Kevin Sauer 7. Katherine Bryan and Jack Bryan 8. Danielly Silva and Emely Fardo

SPRING 2014/

Q95

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

C O A S T T O C O A S T N E W YO R K

Q Focus 1

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

C O A S T T O C O A S T N E W YO R K

BFAn yc. co m

New York

On April 10, there was a one-night-only showing of “The Diamond Sky,” a custom installation by the Leo Kuelbs Collection, as “inspired by the vibrancy and luminosity of Tiffany & Co. diamonds and the Blue Book 2014 Collection.” It was a very cool scene. It wasn’t subdued, yet there was a very cinematic atmosphere, visually, that reminded me of Bertolucci or Visconti. The lighting was soft and changing from a soft light to a Tiffany Blue and a ruby red. There were young women glamorously dressed, the champagne was flowing, canapés were being scooped up, and the men were in suits. The women especially were very chic in the classic sense. —David Patrick Columbia

1. Indre and Justin Rockefeller 2. Meredith Melling Burke and Roopal Patel 3. Jennifer Creel 4. Hilary Rhoda and Sean Avery 5. Harry and Jill Kargman 6. Alexi Ashe and Seth Meyers 7. Wes Gordon and Paul Arnold

SPRING 2014/

Q97

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

COAST TO COAST CALIFORNIA

Q Focus 1

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

COAST TO COAST CALIFORNIA

M ik e Win dle / Ge tty I m a ge s f o r H& M

BFAn yc. co m ;

Indio

H&M teamed up with Alexander Wang to host an epic late-night dance party in celebration of the Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival. The event served as the grounds for H&Mâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surprise announcement of its upcoming collaboration with the designer. As guests arrived at the location, LED lights and lasers projecting the Alexander Wang x H&M collaboration logo served as the announcement of H&Mâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s annual collection with a well-known designer and over 700 guests enjoyed performances by headliner Major Lazer, as well as Jesse Marco, Just Blaze, and Iggy Azalea.

1. Chanel Iman and A$AP Rocky 2. Mia Moretti, Cleo Wade, Alexander Wang and Katy Perry 3. Alexander Wang and Iggy Azalea 4. Kate Bosworth 5. Mamie Grumer and Andrew Beven 6. Kasla Struss, Lauren Levinger, Hanne Gaby Odiele, Alanna Zimmer, and Jacquelyn Jablonski 7. Emmy Rossum

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

C O A S T T O C O A S T N E W YO R K

Q Focus 1

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

C O A S T T O C O A S T N E W YO R K

Pa trick M cM u lla n

New York

The Cinema Society—founded by Andrew Saffir—is the reason that there are bright lights in the big city. This season, the series of Cinema Society screenings (and afterparties) included The Immigrant, hosted by Dior and Vanity Fair with Moët & Chandon; The Other Woman, starring Cameron Diaz, Leslie Mann, and Kate Upton and hosted by Bobbi Brown and InStyle; Locke, hosted by A24; and Fading Gigolo, hosted by Women’s Health. Take it from us: each and every film was a must-see—and each and every event was a must-be-seen-at.

1. Kane Manera, Daniel Benedict, and Savanna Hoge 2. Max Reed and Christian Campbell 3. Sting and Tom Hardy 4. Elizabeth Gilpin and Genevieve Jones 5. Kyle Hotchkiss Carone and Johannes Huebl 6. Garrett Neff and Nolan Funk 7. Harvey Weinstein and Marion Cotillard 8. Helena Christensen and Andrew Saffir

SPRING 2014/

Q101

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

C O A S T T O C O A S T N E W YO R K

Q Focus 1

5 6

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

C O A S T T O C O A S T N E W YO R K

BFAn yc. co m

New York

Presented by Van Cleef & Arpels, the New York Academy of Art’s TriBeCa Ball honored TriBeCa artists Laurie Simmons and Carroll Dunham. Decor revolved around the theme “Nature Inspires,” with the entire building transformed into an enchanted garden. During cocktails, the garden came to life, as guests toured studios featuring the work of one hundred emerging artists. Dinner was prepared by Daniel Boulud with dancing afterwards to music by DJ Kiss. The event raised over $600,000, which will go to fund the New York Academy of Art’s programming and scholarships.

1. Laurie Simmons and Carroll Dunham 2. Amy Astley and Todd Eberle 3. Meredith Ostrom 4. Kevin Barba and Alvin Valley 5. Alain Bernard and Coco Kopelman 6. Bethanie Brady, Alexandra Chemla, and Bettina Prentice 7. Eileen Guggenheim and Alan Cumming 8. Models in Van Cleef & Arpels 9. Peggy Siegal and Misha Nonoo 10. Eugenia Miranda and Julie Henderson 11. Walton Ford and Padma Lakshmi

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L BEAUTY SKIN AND HAIR

S T Y L E

3 2

8 Q104

/ SPRING 2014

4 5

1. MARILYN MONROE is a beauty who continues to define glamour. 2. YES TO The Yes To Cucumbers Color Protection Conditioner is formulated with cucumber (boasting nutrients like vitamins A and C) as well as ingredients such as aloe, apricot, and green tea; $7.99. 3. SHOW The Sheer Thermal Protect saves your strands during styling; $55. 4. CAUDALIE The Polyphenol C15 Anti-Wrinkle Defense Serum serves as a shot of youth by blocking 100 percent of free radicals—the main cause of wrinkles; $62. 5. DAVINES The Replumping Shampoo offers elasticity and moisture to hair with its creamy texture; $25.50. 6. SK-II Combining artichoke and ginseng extracts, niacinamide, and Pitera—an ingredient that is exclusive to SK-II—the Essential Power Essence firms and reduces the appearance of pores; $185. 7. CLÉ DE PEAU The brand introduces the Illuminating Concentrate, a three-step treatment for anti-aging and radiance; $25 for one or $150 for six. 8. LUSH The Big Shampoo is made with sea salt, offering a boost to the limpest of locks; $26.95.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

BEAUTY MAKEUP

4 proves that there is nothing that can’t be accomplished with a batting of the eyelashes. 2. DEBORAH LIPPMANN Colors for Summer 2014, including Video Killed the Radio Star, She Drives Me Crazy, Just Dance, and Flash Dance; $18–20. 3. CLARINS The Multi-Blush Cream Blush is a multitasking creamto-powder product that can also be used on lips, as pictured in Grenadine; $30. 4. ROUGE BUNNY ROUGE Diaphanous, the Impalpable Finishing Powder, can be applied with or without makeup, making you look like you woke up like this, to quote “Flawless” by Beyoncé; $41. 5. CHANEL The No. 5 Eau Première—the modern interpretation of the classic—debuts in the iconic bottle of No. 5; $98 for 1.7 oz. or $130 for 3.4 oz. 6. MAKE UP FOR EVER The Aqua Smoky Extravagant makes a splash for summer with a heat-resistant and waterproof formula; $24. 7. GUERLAIN The Gloss d’Enfer will define your pucker with a pop of color, as pictured in Stardust, Gold Schlack, and Rose Splatch; $30. 1. MODEL, 1969,

S T Y L E

3 SPRING 2014/

Q105

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

EVENING LOOKS

1 4

April showers bring May flowers—and a host of charity benefits that offer the perfect occasion for dressing up, which is why we’ve gathered our favorite evening looks to help you along the way. 1. GRACE KELLY exuded enviable style, and the classic cuts she favored were so timeless, they could fit right in with today’s highest fashions. 2. BOTTEGA VENETA The swanky Intreccio Impero Ayers Stretch Knot, in walnut, is an elegantly elongated version of the signature Knot clutch bag from Bottega Veneta—and is always in style. $1,750. 3. KOTUR Usher in a new Gilded Age with Fiona Kotur Marin’s Gilda heel in gold snakeskin and suede. $650. 4. MARCHESA Flatter your figure in Marchesa’s scalloped strapless fully embroidered metallic lace gown with fishtail. $7,950. 5. BULGARI Wow them in Bulgari’s Berries necklace from the High Jewelry Collection, in 18-kt. yellow gold with 25 amethyst beads, 24 turquoise beads, 127 spinel beads, and pavé diamonds. Price upon request.

Q106

/ SPRING 2014

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

EVENING LOOKS

was a golden child of Hollywood’s Golden Age, and it’s no wonder why. With charm and screen appeal aplenty, her fashion know-how also set the standard for the world stage—for years to come. 2. FABERGÉ The divine Katharina earrings in 18-kt. white and rose gold feature one oval pink tourmaline, round white and pink diamonds, round moonstones, and round ruby. Price upon request. 3. RALPH LAUREN With a perfect bodice fit on top and a short but sweet finish on bottom, this white silk Cady dress by Ralph Lauren Collection makes a prime choice when having fun in white. $5,600. 4. EDIE PARKER Every girl knows that a clutch from Edie Parker is a surefire way of brightening up an evening on the town. With cutting-edge and whimsical designs, they are formal yet always fun. Acrylic clutch. $1,495. 5. STUART WEITZMAN You’ll reign for the night in Stuart Weitzman’s Queen heel in quartz sugar lace. $425. 1. AUDREY HEPBURN

SPRING 2 0 1 4 /

Q107

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L EVENING LOOKS

S T Y L E

1. TWIGGY might have been known for her slight frame and thin build, but when it came to fashion sense, she towered high as a beacon of style. 2. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Make a bold statement with Van Cleef & Arpels’ Crépuscule d’Orient bracelet, featuring coral, amethyst, and diamonds set in 18-kt. rose gold. Price upon request. 3. ASPREY If skin’s your thing, then reach for Asprey’s luxe Wiltshire Envelope in sepia lizard. $2,300. 4. KATIE ERMILIO This laced tailor bow gown by Katie Ermilio, in silk faille, features a straight neckline; a fitted, open-back bodice with bow straps; and a pleated floor-length skirt with elongated train at back. Price upon request. 5. MANOLO BLAHNIK Gussy things up in Manolo Blahnik’s Coramu heel. $695. 6. MARINA B Cardan earrings in gold, rose quartz, amethyst, and blue cardan bead. $3,200.

Q108

/ SPRING 2014

5 4

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

EVENING LOOKS

officially became Princess Diane of Fürstenberg when she married Prince Egon of Fürstenberg, of the German House of Fürstenberg. When the couple divorced, in 1972, she might have lost use of her title, but she kept the family name and even managed to continue an imperial rise of her own—as a queen of fashion. 2. TIFFANY & CO. Paloma Picasso is known for elevating jewelry to the artistic level, and she’s done it again with her magnificent Olive Leaf ring for Tiffany & Co. $15,500. 3. J. MENDEL Look fresh as spring in J. Mendel’s coral Aurora v-neck paneled gown in graphic and floral lace. Price upon request. 4. ISOUDE Make a colorfully sophisticated splash in Isoude’s limited-edition print silk chiffon dress lined in silk. $5,405. 5. JIMMY CHOO Irresistibly chic and surprisingly supportive, Jimmy Choo’s Dido sandal in sea mix gloss elaphe is a worthy addition to any shoe closet. $1,195. 1. DIANE VON FURSTENBERG

SPRING 2 0 1 4 /

Q109

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

SHOPPING INDEX

> Barton Perreira: bartonperreira.com. > Bergdorf Goodman: bergdorfgoodman.com. > Bloomingdale’s: 800.777.0000 or bloomingdales.com. > Bottega Veneta: 212.371.5511 or bottegaveneta.com. > Boyy: boyybag.com. > Bulgari: bulgari.com. > Burberry Prorsum: 877.217.4085 or burberry.com.

C > Calvin Klein: 866.513.0513 or calvinklein.com. > Carlo Pazolini: carlopazolini.com. > Carolina Herrera: 212.249.6552 or carolinaherrera.com. > Cartier: 212.446.3400 or cartier.com. > Céline: 212.535.3703 or celine.com. > Chanel: 800.550.0005 or chanel.com. > Christian Dior: 212.249.5822 or dior.com. > Christofle: christofle.com. > Coach: 800.444.3611 or coach.com. > Criquet Shirts: criquetshirts.com.

D > David Webb: 942 Madison Ave., 212.421.3030. > David Yurman: 877.908.1177 or davidyurman.com. > de Grisogono: 212.439.4220 or degrisogono.com.

Elizabeth Taylor was one of the greatest actresses of Hollywood’s Golden Age, and she never skimped when it came to a shopping spree, especially one involving jewelry. To help you on the journey toward a fashion sense of your own, we’ve compiled a listing of all the vendors featured in this issue, along with some of our go-to favorites. In between shopping, be sure to keep up with Quest and Q online for the latest fashion news: visit questmag.com and follow us on Twitter and Instagram at @questmag.

Q110

/ SPRING 2014

SHOP ’TIL YOU DROP!

> Devi Kroell: devikroell.com. > Diane von Furstenberg: dvf.com. > Diesel Black Gold: dieselblackgold.com.

> 3x1: 3x1.us.

A > AERIN: aerin.com. > Alexandra Ferguson: At Venture, 1156 Madison Ave.

> diptyque: 971 Madison Ave., 212.879.3330. > Dolce & Gabbana: 212.249.4100 or dolceandgabbana.com. > Dsquared2: dsquared2.com.

> Arrowhead Farms: arrowheadfarms.com.

> Asprey: 212.688.1811 or asprey.com.

> Edie Parker: edie-parker.com.

B > Barneys New York: 888.222.7639 or barneys.com.

> Elie Saab: eliesaab.com. > Elie Tahari: elietahari.com. > Emilio Pucci: emiliopucci.com.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

SHOPPING INDEX

> Erdem: erdem.com.

> Lanvin: 646.439.0380 or lanvin.com.

> Roger Vivier: 212.861.5371 or rogervivier.com.

> Esquivel: info@esquivelshoes.com.

> Lela Rose: 212.947.9204 or lelarose.com.

> Rolex: 800.36.ROLEX or rolex.com.

> Louis Vuitton: 866.VUITTON or vuitton.com.

> Roni Blanshay: At Bloomingdale’s, 212.705.2000.

> Rupert Sanderson: rupertsanderson.com.

> Fabergé: 694 Madison Ave., 646.559.8848.

> Flagpole Swim: flagpoleswim.com.

> Manolo Blahnik: 212.582.3007 or

manoloblahnik.com.

> Saint Laurent Paris: 212.832.7100 or ysl.com.

> Marchesa: At Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue,

> Saks Fifth Avenue: 877.551.SAKS or

> GANT: 646.367.5416 or us.gant.com.

and marchesa.com.

saksfifthavenue.com.

> Ghurka: ghurka.com.

> Marco Bicego: marcobicego.com.

> Salvatore Ferragamo: ferragamo.com.

> Giorgio Armani: 877.361.1176 or armani.com.

> Marina B: marinab.com.

> Seaman Schepps: seamanschepps.com.

> Gucci: 877.482.2430 or gucci.com.

> McIntosh: mcintoshlabs.com.

> Sebago: sebago.com.

> Michael Bastian: At Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys New

> Scalise: scalise.fr.

York, or michaelbastiannyc.com.

> Sheriff & Cherry: sheriffandcherry.com.

> H. Stern: hstern.net.

> Michael Kors: 800.908.1157 or michaelkors.com.

> Shinola: shinola.com.

> Harry Winston: harrywinston.com.

> MILLY: millyny.com.

> Shoshanna: At Saks Fifth Avenue, saks.com.

> Hermès: 800.441.4488 or hermes.com.

> Mikimoto: 800.223.4008 or mikimotoamerica.com.

> Smythson: 212.265.4573 or smythson.com.

> Hunter Boot: usa.hunter-boot.com.

N > Nancy Gonzalez: At Neiman Marcus or

> Stella McCartney: stellamccartney.com. > Stuart Weitzman: 212.823.9560 or www.stuartweitzman.com.

> Innamorato: innamorato.com.

nancygonzalez.com.

> Ippolita: ippolita.com.

> Neiman Marcus: 800.533.1312 or

> Irene Neuwirth: At Jeffrey New York,

neimanmarcus.com.

> Tamsen Z: tamsenz.com.

212.206.1272. > Isoude: isoude.com.

> Tiffany & Co.: 561.659.6090 or tiffany.com. > Tom Ford: 212.359.0300 or tomford.com.

> Oscar de la Renta: 888.782.6357 or

> Tommy Hilfiger: usa.tommy.com.

oscardelarenta.com.

> Tory Burch: toryburch.com.

> Jack Spade: jackspade.com.

> James Perse: jamesperse.com.

> Peggy Stephaich Guinness: At Betteridge, 236 Worth

> Valentino: 212.772.6969 or

> Jimmy Choo: 877.955.2466 or jimmychoo.com.

Ave., Palm Beach, 561.655.5850.

valentino.com.

> Judith Ripka: judithripka.com.

> Prada: 724 Fifth Ave., 212.664.0010, or prada.com.

> Van Cleef & Arpels: vancleefarpels.com.

J > J.Crew: 800.562.0258 or jcrew.com.

> VBH Luxury: 940 Madison Ave., 212.717.9800.

> Kara Ross: kararossny.com.

> Rachel Zoe: rachelzoe.com.

> Kate Spade: katespade.com.

> Ralph Lauren: 888.475.7674 or ralphlauren.com.

> Red Carter: redcartercollection.com.

> Wempe: 212.397.9000 or wempe.com.

> Reem Acra: 730 Fifth Ave., Suite 205, 212.319.1800.

> Versace: 888.721.7219 or versace.com.

> Lalique: 888.488.2580 or lalique.com.

> Roberto Coin: At Neiman Marcus or Roberto Coin,

> La Perla: laperla.com.

800.853.5958 and us.robertocoin.com.

> Yigal Azrouël: yigal-azrouel.com.

SPRING 2014/

Q111

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

SPRING HOROSCOPES

Q112

Capricorn Dec. 22 to Jan. 19 In the words of Donna Meagle and Tom Haverford of Parks and Recreation, it’s time to treat yo’ self. Clothes. Massages. Mimosas. Fine leather goods. It’s the best day of the year! You’re good about saving, but be better about giving yourself a reward. > Garnet ring from David Yurman

Cancer June 21 to July 22

Aquarius Jan. 20 to Feb. 18 You weren’t up all night, but you did, indeed, get lucky. And you, dear Aquarius, know better than most: waste not, want not. Fate is fawning over you with positivity so don’t forget to take advantage while the universe is still working in your favor. > Amethyst brooch from Tiffany & Co.

Leo July 23 to Aug. 23 While everyone else is downing GnTs, you’re upping your prospects with a summery outlook. Use the summer sun to shine a light on what really matters to you and no one else. The tides of other people’s worries, criticisms, and actions are moving out; the beach is yours—go play on it. > Peridot earrings from Asprey

Pisces Feb. 19 to Mar. 20 Mercury may not be in retrograde but you are, dear Pisces. You are! Because of the level of your stress, you’re terrorizing your family and friends with your attitude. Do everyone a favor by taking a minute to simmer, maybe by visiting the spa for a massage. > Aquamarine earrings from Asprey

Virgo Aug. 24 to Sept. 22 When the going gets tough, the tough get going—as Billy Ocean knows. If you’re working for the weekend, it’s time to update your résumé and work your network. A push now means an opportunity later, so forge ahead. You’ll be patting yourself on the back in no time... > Sapphire ring from Tiffany & Co.

Aries Mar. 21 to Apr. 19 You have been working your butt off, literally, with classes at the gym for a couple of months. And it shows! The blood, sweat, and tears that have gone into your beach bod were worth it so if you’ve got it, flaunt it. Crop tops are very, very in, you know. > Diamond earrings from Tiffany & Co.

Libra Sept. 23 to Oct. 22 The sun is out, which is great because your body has been craving Vitamin D—as in Vitamin Delicious. You consider yourself a foodie, so go out and explore. The city is, well, your oyster and there are a hundred pearls to dip into, from Harlem to FiDi and from Astoria to Sheepshead Bay. > Opal necklace from Tiffany & Co.

Taurus Apr. 20 to May 20 Lately, you’ve been a bull-y. (You know, as in bull, as in the sign of Taurus.) People have been messing with you and they’ve been getting the horns. Much of your discontent has been merited, but be careful about how you conduct yourself. Reputations aren’t a good thing to lose. > Emerald bracelet from Asprey

Scorpio Oct. 23 to Nov. 21 Deep down, you know what you really want. This is the month to put the “I” in altruistic and do something for you. You can wait a month or two to get charitable—maybe even ’til Christmas?— but right now it’s time to follow your dreams and fulfill your heart’s desire. > Topaz ring from David Yurman

Gemini May 21 to June 20

Sagittarius Nov. 22 to Dec. 21

Oh, the sign of the twins—and don’t you know it, dear Gemini. Always, you’ve been about juxtaposition, but more so with the decisions that you have on your plate. To quit your job or not to quit your job? To propose or not to propose? Toil over these questions—they’re important. > Pearl rings from Tiffany & Co.

To reference a quote from 30 Rock’s Liz Lemon, you’ve been saying, “Yes to life, yes to love, yes to staying in more.” You’re thinking about putting yourself out there, but have had reservations. Don’t. Slick on some kohl and slip into a pair of Miu Miu platforms and you go do you. > Tanzanite earrings from Tiffany & Co.

/ SPRING 2014

Being educated means more than schooling. You, dear Cancer, have allowed your noggin to go unacknowledged. Buff up your brain by purchasing a subscription to a newspaper or by joining a book club. Trust: Those around you will be more interested—and more intrigued. > Ruby earrings from Asprey

A nEW ClASSIC ShInglE STylE hOuSE In nEW CAnAAn, CT DESIgnED AnD buIlT by WADIA ASSOCIATES

RESIDENTIAL DESIGN ~ INTERIOR DESIGN AND DECORATION ~ CONSTRUCTION MANAGEMENT (203) 966-0048 ~ WADIAASSOCIATES.COM

SCAn TO SEE MOrE phOTOS Of ThIS AnD OThEr CuSTOM DESIgnED hOMES