Q Spring 2016 by QUEST Magazine

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S T Y L E SPRING ISSUE 2016 > $5.00

SPRING CLASSICS SPRING CLASSICS LAUREN HUTTON BRIGITTE BARDOT PHOTOGRAPHED BY PHOTOGRAPHED BY GIANNI PENATI, 1968 GHISLAIN DUSSART, 1975

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44 LIVING LEGEND BRIGITTE BARDOT Widely referred to simply by her initials, “B.B.,” Brigitte Bardot grew from an aspiring 15-year-old fashion model and budding ballerina to become one of the most universally recognized sex symbols of the 1950s and 1960s. 56 SACHIN & BABI Lily Hoagland’s account of energetic, fresh, and fun fashion label Sachin & Babi, brainchild of husband and wife team Babi and Sachin Ahluwalia.

62 SMYTHSON: PEER OF THE REAM The British are here! Lily Hoagland stops by the opening of famed stationary and leather goods Smythson’s Madison Avenue store to check out their monogrammed travel journals and an exhibit detailing the brand’s rich 128-year history. 66 FALL TREND REPORT A roundup of five prominent trends from the Fall 2016 runways, including: long sleeves, shades of blush, neutral tones, gloves, and metallics. 76 WELLNESS AS A FORTE Elizabeth Quinn Brown chats with brand manager Irene Forte about her initiatives with Rocco Forte Hotels, where she is evolving their spas to perfection.

80 FOUNTAIN HOUSE Q contributor Katie Zorn (who is just as beautiful on the inside as she is on the outside) on Fountain House’s remarkable “College Re-Entry” program. Katie’s touching piece about her brother Danny, and the hope and wellness that patients and families receive with the help of Fountain House, underscores Fountain House’s crucial role as a leader in the field of mental health since its inception in 1948. 84 RUNWAY REVIEW Alex Travers examines seven runway shows from New York Fashion Week, where many designers started to make their clothes available for immediate sale online, a trend that seems to be catching on these days.

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C O V E R Brigitte Bardot, 1975. Photographed by Ghislain Dussart. Ghislain Dussart/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images

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29 NOSTALGIA From 1930s-style tennis to 1960s cheerleaders (think Jane Fonda in Tall Story), these springtime scenes are sure to enliven and inspire. 32 JEWELRY Bulgari, Roberto Coin, Vhernier, Ivanka Trump, and others offer a selection of jewels worth cherishing. 34 SWIMWEAR Lounge on the beach or hit the surf in our latest selection of cheeky and colorful two-pieces. 36 SHOES We promise to have you jumping for joy over our latest selection of the season’s best sandals and pumps.

37 SUNGLASSES Hit the beach or take it to the streets in our latest selection of sleek and chic sunnies. 38 MEN’S ACCESSORIES It’s anchors aweigh for some smoothsailing must-haves for the men in your life. 39 WOMEN’S ACCESSORIES From designer beds to our favorite bottle of rosé, it’s a season to blush over. 92 Q FOCUS The parties of the moment, on both coasts, including cinema in New York and tennis in California.

102 BEAUTY: FACE Be as fresh-faced as Q’s icons, with products that embolden and enhance your features. 103 BEAUTY: HAIR & BODY Bless your bod with these potions—from shampoos to spritzes! 106 EVENING LOOKS A selection of the gowns and accessories we have in mind for the most stunning spring looks. 110 SHOPPING INDEX To help you on your fashion journey, a listing of where to buy the looks featured in our pages.

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112 HOROSCOPES It’s the season of wearing less and going out more, but the question remains: Is Mercury in retrograde?

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DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA

ELIZABETH MEIGHER

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

EDITOR

JAMES STOFFEL CREATIVE DIRECTOR

LILY HOAGLAND EXECUTIVE EDITOR

ELIZABETH QUINN BROWN FEATURE S EDITOR

ALEX TRAVERS A SSOCIATE FA SHION EDITOR

JULIE SKARRATT PHOTOGR APHER-AT-L ARGE

DANIEL CAPPELLO FA SHION DIRECTOR

VALERIA FOX ART DIRECTOR

ROBERT BENDER CHIEF TECHNOLOGY OFFICER

HILARY GEARY SOCIET Y EDITOR

JOANNA BAKER CO-FOUNDING EDITOR

Quest Media, LLC S. CHRISTOPHER MEIGHER III CHAIRMAN AND C.E.O.

KATHLEEN SHERIDAN A SSI STANT TO THE C.E.O.

ARLENE LEFKOE ACCOUNTING MANAGER BOARD OF ADVISORS

EDWARD LEE CAVE BARBARA CORCORAN JED H. GARFIELD CLARK HALSTEAD HOWARD LORBER PAMELA LIEBMAN ELIZABETH STRIBLING ROGER W. TUCKERMAN PETER TURINO WILLIAM LIE ZECKENDORF

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CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

CHERIE BURNS ELIZABETH KURPIS LIZ SMITH TAKI THEODORACOPULOS CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

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EDITOR’S LETTER

I recently came across one of the earliest issues of Q, in which we featured a photo of Jackie Kennedy Onassis from 1976, wearing her archetypal oversized tortoise sunglasses, a silk kerchief, and a classic trench. The photo embodies Jackie’s icon status and reflects her elegance and grace, even while trying to remain incognito. And yet, her teeth are noticeably yellowed (presumably from years of smoking) as well as discernibly crooked. Even so, had they been perfectly aligned and polished, something about the photo would have been lost. Glance at any newsstand today hawking fashion magazine covers, and you will find yourself lost in a sea of precisely parallel pearly whites (not to mention perfect noses, flawless foreheads, and wrinkle-free smiles). There is something refreshing about seeing Jackie— still widely recognized as one of history’s preeminent fashion icons— in all of her perfectly imperfect glory, smiling happily from beneath those colossal, orbicular sunglasses. The concept of “beauty in the imperfections” is not a new one. For those who were subject to Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales (a tome first published in 1475) in high-school English lit, the prologue to The Wife of Bath’s Tale (Middle English: “the Tale of the Wyf of Bathe”) might come to mind: “Gat-tothed I was, and that bicam me weel; I hadde the prente of seinte Venus seel.” In other words, the “wyf” (an older woman, all of 40 years old) is a venerable “cougar” with a keen appetite for (and high success rate among) the younger gents of her time. Her gap-toothed smile adds to her enticing demeanor and makes her all the more attractive. Ergo, 500 years ago Chaucer handed his readers the concept of loveliness springing from the flaws. And this brings me to one of history’s favorite imperfect beauties: Brigitte Bardot. Bardot emanates raw beauty, with a dash of freckles sprinkled across her sun-kissed nose, tousle of slightly messy blond hair, naturally plump pout (unlike her contemporaries, Bardot has avoided cosmetic surgery), and visible gap-tooth smile. As Marilyn Monroe once said “Imperfection is beauty, madness is genius and it’s better to be absolutely ridiculous than absolutely boring.” Brigitte Anne-Marie Bardot’s life has been anything but boring. Look no further than Liz Smith’s profile of the blond bombshell in this spring issue of Q to discover why. Widely referred to simply by her initials, “B.B.,” Bardot grew from an aspiring 15-yearold fashion model and budding ballerina to become one of the most universally recognized sex symbols of the 1950s and 1960s. And then, before fans could witness her as anything but the bombshell persona, Brigitte retired from movies altogether in 1973 at the age of 39. Upon retirement, Bardot embraced a cause to which she had always felt close—animal rights. The starlet declared “I gave my youth and beauty to men. I am going to give my wisdom and experience to animals.” Another important cause highlighted in this issue comes from Q Contributor Katie Zorn on Fountain House and its exceptional “College Re-Entry” program. Katie’s touching piece about her brother Danny, and the hope and wellness that patients and families are able to receive with the help of Fountain House, underscores Fountain House’s crucial role as a leader in the field of mental health Chanel resin and brass Minaudière, price upon request; since inceptoin in 1948. Van Cleef & Arpels “Two Butterfly” earrings; Slim Aarons photo For something “aces” from across the pond, catch Features Editor of guests at Villa Nirvana in Acapulco, Mexico, 1972; Jackie Elizabeth Quinn Brown’s piece about Chelsea-born sisters Irene and Kennedy Onassis wearing oversized, tortoise sunglasses in 1976; Lydia Forte. I first read about them in Tatler in 2008, when father Stuart Weitzman “Minky” wedge sandal; Brigitte Bardot on Sir Rocco Forte (Founder of Rocco Forte Hotels) threw a lavish “Bal the set of director Jean-Luc Godard’s film Contempt (Le Mépris), Dentelle” at his Hotel Amigo in Brussels to celebrate daughter Irene’s 1963; Sachin & Babi’s “Paola” gown (for inquiries, please 19th birthday. These sisters are not only charming, beautiful, and call 212-996-5200); Prada oversized, tortoiseshell sunglasses; glamorous (Mom is fashion designer Aliai Forte), but they are also Patti Hansen, 1976; Carolina Herrera embroidered wool gazar smart— both attended Oxford and are currently among the world’s gown from Carolina Herrera’s Fall 2016 ready-to-wear collection most fledgling business women. u (for inquiries, please call 866-254-7660).

ELIZABETH MEIGHER EDITOR

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

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CONTRIBUTORS

These days she’s been having fun with her website, which features 20 famous women: WowOWow.com (aimed at one of the most important demographics on the web—women who weren’t born yesterday!). In her latest column for Q, Liz takes a look at living legend Brigitte Bardot. "Bardot was much like America’s Kim Novak," Liz writes, "she loved nature and animals and freedom. She, like Kim, got out while the getting was good. But Novak allowed herself to be lured back to movies from time to time. Bardot stuck to her guns."

Elizabeth Quinn Brown > Elizabeth Quinn Brown serves as the features editor of Q and Quest, where she writes the “Young and the Guest List” column. For this issue, she chatted with the gorgeous Irene Forte about her initiatives for Rocco Forte Hotels—which include a collection of products called Forte Organics. Then, as beauty editor, she curated a collection of the greatest in potions for beautifying as the weather continues to warm... Elizabeth resides in the East Village, where she practices pilates and wanders into the shops on East 9th Street, like Enchantments.

80 Alex Travers > Alex is the associate fashion editor of Q and Quest In this issue, he reviews seven Fall 2016 shows, where a few designers made many of their items available for immediate sale. “Things are changing,” he notes. “Some designers skipped their shows altogether and sold their fall collections online. I don't blame them. Shows can cost a fortune. But there is something special about a great runway outing, so to see that style of presentation go away is a little sad. You just have to hope guys like Marc Jacobs won't stop. His shows are a type of visual theater that always bubble over with the unexpected.”

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44 < Lily Hoagland Lily Hoagland is the executive editor of Quest and Q, and has written for Vanity Fair. For this issue, she speaks with designers Babi and Sachin Ahluwalia about the latest collection for their fashion brand, Sachin & Babi, as they look to expand their line of contemporary classics. Then she hops over to the opening of the royal family–approved Smythson's new store on Madison Avenue (p.62) to check out their luxury stationery, leather goods, diaries, and more—a favorite of hers because, as an amateur calligrapher, she can never have too many blank pages on which to draw.

76 < Katie Zorn Although she had enjoyed a successful career in the fashion industry, in 2006, Katie's passion turned toward fighting to de-stigmatize mental illness. Since then, she has co-launched the Fountain House Young Associates, a group of professionals dedicated to supporting innovative mental health programs, including the Fountain House College Re-Entry program. Zorn also serves on the Board of Trustees of Fountain House. In this issue, Katie explores the many ways Fountain House is able to strengthen skills, reduce stress, and increase independence.

J uli e Ska r ra tt ( Al ex Trave r s)

Liz Smith > Liz calls herself the 2,000-year-old gossip columnist.

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S P R IN G AC T IVI T I E S Diana, Princess of Wales (wearing a Donald Campbell dress) and Prince Charles leave Eastleigh airport

in Hampshire at the start of their honeymoon, 1981.

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This page: 1. Photographer Paul Huf (right) with fashion models and a fashion crew in Amsterdam, 1962; 2. Veruschka photographed by Franco Rubartelli in Itapoa, Brazil, 1968; 3. Ronald and Nancy Reagan honeymooning at The Arizona Biltmore Hotel in Phoenix, Arizona, 1952; 4. Christie Brinkley photographed by John G.

4. Catherine Deneuve with director Jacques Demy, composer Michel Legrand, actress Anne Vernon, and actor Nino Castelnuovo at Cannes to promote their film Les Parapluies de Cherbourg, May 1964; 5. Jane Fonda as student cheerleader June Ryder in Tall Story, 1960.

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Zimmerman for Sports Illustrated, 1989; 5. Sylvie Vartan and Johnny Hallyday, 1979. > Opposite page: 1. Two women light cigarettes on a tennis court in Essex, England, circa 1932; 2. Hayley Mills at the beach in 1964; 3. Slim Aarons photo of guests at Villa Nirvana, owned by Oscar Obregon, in Acapulco, Mexico, 1972;

R DA / Ge tt y; Si l ve r Scre e n C o lle c ti o n

Ke y sto n e Vi e w / FPG / Ge tt y; Re x; Sli m Aa ron s / H ult on Ar c h i ve / G e tty ;

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3 Gianni Penati photographed fashion and jewelry, including several covers for Vogue in the 1960s and ’70s. His highly stylized jewelry portraits revealed and reveled in beauty at every level, from the intricate braiding in a fantastic hair style to the bold, glamorous, and equally ornate details of the pieces of jewelry themselves. This spring, it’s worth paying attention to the details when styling yourself in a new set of jewels. Floral motifs are especially on trend, and can be carried through from a brooch right into the hair itself, thanks to Oscar de la Renta’s irresistible flower-dotted hair comb.

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1. IVANKA TRUMP FINE JEWELRY Montmartre multi-shape bracelet in diamonds and 18-kt. gold; $10,900. 2. OSCAR DE LA RENTA Ruby flower pearl hair comb; $290. 3. ROBERTO COIN The Rock and Diamond ring collection—exclusive to Neiman Marcus—in yellow, white, and rose gold with white and black diamonds; from $4,700. 4. BETTERIDGE Estate Betteridge Collection antique gold and gem-set flower pin; $9,500. 5. DAVID YURMAN Delta ring with diamonds and orange and yellow sapphires; $3,500. 6. ETRO Enamel flower earrings in blue, yellow, and red; $219 per pair. 7. BULGARI High jewelry earrings in gold, sapphire, milky quartz, peridot, and diamonds; price upon request.

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7 5 4 6 Princess Stéphanie of Monaco, the youngest child of Rainier III, Prince of Monaco, and Grace Kelly, is decidedly her parents’ daughter—her camera-ready looks have always called to mind part royal blood, part Hollywood royalty. Though she’s never had to work, her career path has walked her through stages as a singer, swimwear designer, and fashion model. Never one to let the fashion wear the model, she always wore the dress and jewels on her own terms. When it comes to picking a bold bauble to accessorize your look, remember: it’s in the way that you wear it.

1. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS “Two Butterfly” earrings featuring diamonds and white mother of pearl set in 18-kt. rose gold; $13,400. 2. BY KILIAN From the Moonlight collection, this yellow gold open cuff with mother of pearl comes with a ceramic insert that, when sprayed with perfume, holds its scent throughout the day; $495. 3. TORY BURCH Evil Eye charm pendant thread necklace; $95. 4. ALEXIS BITTAR Lucite cherry earrings; $595. 5. LALIQUE Charmante ring in violet and rose and in blue and violet; $260 each. 6. VHERNIER Bisquit chain in 18-kt. rose gold and gray and white mother of pearl; $24,700. 7. MISH Ballantine earrings in conch shell and pink freshwater cultured pearls and gold; price upon request.

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SWIMWEAR

Surf’s Up

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Private yacht club Balboa Bay Club was originally owned by entrepreneur, petroleum businessman, and television producer Jack Wrather from 1960–1971. Wrather sold the club to William Ray, who was inducted into the International Hall of Fame for his conservation efforts in 1988. When Ray died in 1991, his widow, Beverly Ray Parkhurst, maintained ownership until 2012. In 2013, the Balboa Bay Club and Resort divided into two separate entities: the renovated Balboa Bay Resort opened to the public, while the private club remains open to members only. The club has hosted numerous notables over the years, including presidents, politicians, business leaders, and actors, such as John Wayne, Humphrey Bogart, Lauren Bacall, Natalie Wood, John Travolta, Jerry Seinfeld, Jim Carrey, and Russell Simmons.

7 1. VICTORIA’S SECRET Martha Hunt and Behati Prinsloo soak up the sun in St. Barth’s wearing bikinis from Victoria’s Secret’s 2016 collection; available at victoriassecret.com. 2. EMILIO PUCCI Printed Lycra triangle bikini in multicolour Grasshopper print; emiliopucci.com. 3. VIX Indian Ripple triangle bikini top ($92) Indian Ripple tie bottom ($130) at vixpaulahermanny.com. 4. MARA HOFFMAN Triangle bikini top in leaf print with adjustable crisscross straps (ties at front); $102. Matching tie side bikini bottom; $99, at marahoffman.com. 5. SHOSHANNA Neon red Solid Twist Bandeau Top ($136) paired with neon red Solid Loop Bottom ($88) from Shoshanna Swimwear 2016, shoshanna.com. 6. TORY BURCH Tory Sport Block-Striped Rashguard, emblazoned with graphic stripes and color-blocking ($195) paired with Printed Hipster Bikini Bottom ($85) at torysport.com. 7. DVF Ipanema Mesh Detail Triangle Bikini set; $180, at dvf.com.

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ORAL REPRESENTATIONS CANNOT BE RELIED UPON AS CORRECTLY STATING THE REPRESENTATIONS OF THE DEVELOPER. FOR CORRECT REPRESENTATIONS, MAKE REFERENCE TO THIS BROCHURE AND TO THE DOCUMENTS REQUIRED BY SECTION 718.503, FLORIDA STATUTES, TO BE FURNISHED BY A DEVELOPER TO A BUYER OR LESSEE. This offering is made only by the prospectus for the condominium and no statement should be relied upon if not made in the prospectus. These materials are not intended to be an offer to sell, or solicitation to buy a unit in the condominium. Such an offering shall only be made pursuant to the prospectus (offering circular) for the condominium and no statements should be relied upon unless made in the prospectus or in the applicable purchase agreement. In no event shall any solicitation, offer or sale of a unit in the condominium be made in, or to residents of, any state or country in which such activity would be unlawful. All plans, features and amenities depicted herein are based upon preliminary development plans, and are subject to change without notice in the manner provided in the offering documents. No guarantees or representations whatsoever are made that any plans, features, amenities or facilities will be provided or, if provided, will be of the same type, size, location or nature as depicted or described herein. This project is being developed by 700 Miami Partners LLC, aORAL Delaware REPRESENTATIONS limited liability company, CANNOT which BEwas RELIED formed UPON solelyAS forCORRECTLY such purpose. STATING Two Roads THEDevelopment REPRESENTATIONS LLC, a Florida OF THE limited DEVELOPER. liability company FOR(“Two CORRECT Roads”), REPRESENTATIONS, is affiliated with this entity, MAKEbut REFERENCE is not the developer TO THISofBROCHURE this project. AND TO THE DOCUMENTS REQUIRED BY SECTION 718.503, FLORIDA STATUTES, TO BE FURNISHED BY A DEVELOPER TO A BUYER OR LESSEE. This offering is made only the DEVELOPER. prospectus for the condominium andREPRESENTATIONS, no statement should be relied upon if not made in TO the prospectus. These materials are THE not intended to be an offer to sell, or solicitation ORAL REPRESENTATIONS CANNOT BE RELIED UPON AS CORRECTLY STATING THE REPRESENTATIONS OFby THE FOR CORRECT MAKE REFERENCE THIS BROCHURE AND TO DOCUMENTS REQUIRED BY SECTION 718.503, to buy a unit the FURNISHED condominium. Such offering shall TO onlyAbe made pursuant to the prospectus (offering circular) forthe theprospectus condominiumfor and statements should be statement relied uponshould unless made in the prospectus or in in the applicable purchase agreement. no not event shall anytosolicitation, offer or or solicitation FLORIDA STATUTES, TOinBE BY A an DEVELOPER BUYER OR LESSEE. This offering is made only by thenocondominium and no be relied upon if not made the prospectus. These materialsInare intended be an offer to sell, of condominium. a unit in the condominium made in, or to residents of, any state ortocountry in which such activitycircular) would befor unlawful. All plans, features andstatements amenities depicted are upon based unless upon preliminary development plans, areapplicable subject to change without notice inIn thenomanner the to buy a unit sale in the Such an be offering shall only be made pursuant the prospectus (offering the condominium and no should herein be relied made in the prospectus or and in the purchase agreement. event provided shall anyinsolicitation, offer or offering documents. No guarantees or representations whatsoever are made that any plans, features, amenities or facilities will be provided or, if provided, will be of the same type, size, location or nature as depicted or describedplans, herein.and Thisare project is being developed by 700 MiamiinPartners LLC, provided in the sale of a unitainDelaware the condominium be made in, or to residents of, any state or country in which such activity would be unlawful. All plans, features and amenities depicted herein are based upon preliminary development subject to change without notice the manner limited liability company, which was formed solely for such purpose. Two Roads Development LLC, a Florida limited liability company (“Two Roads”), is affiliated with this entity, but is not the developer of this project.

offering documents. No guarantees or representations whatsoever are made that any plans, features, amenities or facilities will be provided or, if provided, will be of the same type, size, location or nature as depicted or described herein. This project is being developed by 700 Miami Partners LLC, a Delaware limited liability company, which was formed solely for such purpose. Two Roads Development LLC, a Florida limited liability company (“Two Roads”), is affiliated with this entity, but is not the developer of this project.

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SHOES

Stepping Out

Photographer Kourken Pakchanian became well known during the 1970s for his posh fashion photography, which could often be found sprinkled throughout the pages of Condé Nast fashion publications. In this 1973 photo for US Vogue, Pakchanian captures two sleekly dressed models as they smoke and drink coffee while lounging at a local bar counter.

3 1. JIMMY CHOO “TRIX 100” Dark Shiraz Woven Nappa and Coral Pink Suede Sandals, 3.9” heel; $975, us.jimmychoo.com. 2. ROGER VIVIER “Chips Ballerina” flat in patent leather with iconic buckle in polished metal; $650, rogervivier.com. 3. J.CREW Gingham d’Orsay flat in green; jcrew.com. 4. KATE SPADE Retro “Devon” wedges with raffia daisy detail and 4.3” heel; $238 at katespade.com. 5. JACK ROGERS The “Luccia” wedge shown in gold—3.5” wedge heel and .5” platform; $178. 6. STUART WEITZMAN “Minky” wedge sandal with braided bamboo sole in beige nappa leather with 5.5” wedge heel, 2” platform; $545, stuartweitzman.com.

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Ko u r ke n Pak c ha n i a n /C o n dé N a st v i a G e tty I m ag es

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SUNGLASSES

Well ’Spected PA / PA Ar c h i ve / Pre ss As so c i at i o n Im a ge s

1. TOM FORD “Gabriella” round sunglasses in color bronze; $405, tomford.com.

Catherine Deneuve arriving at London Airport (from Paris) to attend the premiere of her film Repulsion in 1965. She dons a white, square-cut coat by André Courrèges, and flat, white knee-high boots. Sporting oval specs, the French actress and fashion icon was often known for her stylish eyewear, well before sunglasses had become the multi-billion dollar fashion staple and statement that they are today.

2. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Metal Blocks Squared Frame sunglasses; $375, alexandermcqueen.com. 3. CHLOÉ Gold and translucent peach sunglasses with graduated gray frames; $346, chloe.com. 4. PRADA Oversized medium tortoiseshell hexagonal acetate frame sunglasses with anthracite gray to jade green gradient lenses from Prada’s Soft Pop collection; $325, prada.com. 5. DOLCE & GABBANA Light havana brown acetate oversized butterfly sunglasses; $476. 6. CAROLINA HERRERA Tortoise round sunglasses with green lenses, available at carolinaherrera.com.

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ACCESSORIES

A Suave Sail Ahead

Sean Connery was adept at many roles, but he will forever be remembered as a favorite—if not the favorite—James Bond. Connery’s self-confidence and good looks always stood the test of time. In 1989, he was hailed as People magazine’s “Sexiest Man Alive,” and in 1999, at age 69, was voted “Sexiest Man of the Century.” This season, jump on board and beef up your style with some of these inspired offerings.

1. WANT LES ESSENTIELS The sporty Lennon sneaker in navy double-dot black; $425. 2. SAINT LAURENT Logo Print beach tote bag in cream with leather bottom; $795. 3. ACQUA DI PARMA Colonia Eau de Cologne: a timeless blend of lavender, vervain, citrus, and rose; $144. 4. BREITLING The Avenger Hurricane’s ultra-light case is made with futuristic Breightlight material; $8,390. 5. MIANSAI Modern Anchor rope bracelet in khaki and brass; $65. 6. TOD’S Hand-painted leather credit card holder; $265. 7. CARTIER Santos de Cartier ballpoint pen in blue lacquer and palladium; $330. 8. TURQUESE Sparviero Blu Notte ($230) and Terra Turchese ($230) cotton water wear.

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ACCESSORIES

Blushing With Envy

1. PATEK PHILIPPE Ladies Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 7140R) in rose gold, white opaline, and diamonds, with mink-gray alligator strap; $93,000. 2. ASSOULINE

Audrey Hepburn brought model looks to everything she did,

Flowers: Art & Bouquets by Sixtine Dubly; $85. 3. RALPH LAUREN Delphine jewelry

even if it was casually reading in repose. With soft features and long, thin legs, she was the picture of femininity. Speaking of the finishing feminine touch, what could be better than a few shades of pink? From one of the finest rosé wines of the season to a luxurious dusty-rose bed and a book about blooms, we’ve rounded up must-haves for every lady.

box in leather and burl wood; $2,495. 4. CHATEAU D’ESCLANS Rock Angel’s newly released 2015 rosé offers a long, dry finish; $35. 5. CALVIN KLEIN HOME The mouth-blown Nova Champagne flute set in clear; $80. 6. LA PERLA Edenic triangle bra ($388) and Edenic Brazilian thong ($238). 7. LALIQUE 2016 Anemones limited-edition perfume bottle; $1,800. 8. SAVOIR BEDS The Amelia Bed, upholstered in “Divinia,” a dusty-rose wool finish by Kvadrat; $20,531.

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CLUTCHES

Clutch Hit

James (“Jimmy”) Donahue, Jr. and C. Z. Guest photographed by Slim Aarons at a party given by the Duke and Duchess of Windsor at the Waldorf Astoria in 1953. Blond and slender, Jimmy Donahue was the archetypal post-war playboy. Expelled from Choate as a teenager (after which he holed up at The Pierre rather than continue with his education), Jimmy became notorious for his inventive pranks and rumor-mongering. The grandson of millionaire Frank W. Woolworth, Jimmy knew he would never need to work. Instead, he set about carving a career of mischief (some said evil). Despite being openly acknowledged as gay, rumor has it that he and 20-years-senior Wallis, Duchess of Windsor (the wife of the Duke of Windsor, the former King Edward VIII), entered into a scandalous, four-year affair.

9 1. TOM FORD Medium Sienna bag; $2,950, at tomford.com 2. JIMMY CHOO Locket Minaudière; $1,650, at us.jimmychoo.com 3. DVF Powerstone Minaudière featuring a ring clasp closure with a detachable jewelry-inspired chain strap; $348, dvf.com. 4. MILLY Logan Star Clutch in leather; $235, at milly.com. metallic accents, and a classic bamboo closure; $135, at jmclaughlin.com. 6. STUART WEITZMAN Eastsddaily clutch in colorblock multi calf leather; $595, at stuartweitzman.com. 7. PRADA Crocodile leather shoulder bag; $5,100, at prada.com. 8. KATE SPADE Evening Belles Tout de Suite clutch; $468, at katespade.com. 9. CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA Heirloom Case with safe-lock detail and jewel-embellished, velvet insert; $1,925, at us.chartlotteolympia.com.

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5. J.MCLAUGHLIN Mirellas Clutch in chevron with leather patching,

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E HANDBAGS

Bag It While studying at Iowa State University for a degree in photography, American-born photographer Don Honeyman entered a national competition and won the grand prize: a job at Vogue, where he worked for almost a quarter of a century. His photo from the August 1960 issue of a polished lady sporting pearls, a pair of dark shades, a classic shift, and kitten heels could just as easily been taken for any of today’s top fashion publications—the look is timeless and continues to embody style.

1. SOCAPRI Saddle wicker basket bag with crocodile fold (available in brown or white), gold hardware, and double shoulder chain; $2,370. 2. VALENTINO The My Rockstud

Co nd é Nast

medium beaded satchel in Bordeaux comes with removable shoulder strap and hanging logo tag with signature Rockstud accents; $5,475. 3. BRAHMIN Harrison hobo bag in regatta oroya colorway; $325. 4. RALPH LAUREN Inspired by classic English design and offering a versatile silhouette, the large Bedford bag is handmade in Italy from exotic ostrich leather; $7,950. 5. BULGARI The Bulgari-Bulgari Alba bag: a tote in Tiger’s Eye calf leather and black calf leather; $1,950. 6. BAIA The Shoulder, in nude, full-grain leather with bonded suede lining; $495 (£350). 7. CH CAROLINA HERRERA Cognac Petite Baret Bag; $1,150. 8. ETRO Suede top-handle bag; $2,910.

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M E N ’ S A P PA R E L

Step Into Spring Style Peter Lawford and John F. Kennedy knew that warm weather was no excuse for slacking off, especially in the sartorial sense. The best way to keep your cool? Take a cue from the Kennedy clan and step up your fashion sense this season. You never know: you may even become your own ambassador of style.

1. RALPH LAUREN Navy and white striped sport shirt ($495) and trouser ($695). 2. NEIL BARRETT Navy and off-white short-sleeve neoprene pullover in leopard; $545. 3. HERMÈS High-neck cotton pullover in tomato ($1,175) with chocolate trousers in cotton and canvas ($900). 4. BILLY REID Zip polo ($245), Loyola jacket ($1,895), and smock short ($195). 5. MICHAEL KORS Poplin hooded shirt-jacket ($295), linen/cotton tank ($95), and crushed-denim trouser ($245). 6. MICHAEL BASTIAN Front-pocket chino short, gray sweater, and three-pocket blazer; concierge@michaelbastiannyc.com. 7. BURBERRY Burgundy quilted bomber jacket ($1,395), charcoal cashmere joggers ($895), and calf suede tasseled loafers ($750). 8. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Deconstructed wool sport jacket ($2,545), down gilet ($1,445), and linen Bermuda shorts ($575).

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This page: Brigitte Bardot in A Woman Like Satan, directed by Julien Duvivier, 1958. > Opposite page: Brigitte Bardot on the set of director Jean-Luc Godard’s film Contempt (Le Mépris), 1963; > Inset: Bardot and Jane Birkin (left) on board a cross channel ferry to Dover for the film Don Juan (Or If Don Juan Were A Woman), 1972.

“Owning a woman’s soul is a harder task than

Living Legend Brigitte Bardot by

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Liz Smith

or perhaps because of—her position in France as the epitome of sexual allure, good movies were not coming her way. She was a symbol, an image, the eternal girl/woman of the newspapers and paparazzi photos. She had resisted Hollywood— fame in Europe was enough for her—but even her first husband and the “creator” of her image, Roger Vadim, had little to give her as she matured. Anticipating Bardot’s retirement, he had directed her one last time, in Don Juan (Or if Don Juan Were A Woman) which was also released in 1973. This seemed nothing more than a coarsening of her nymphet in And God Created Woman, which was Vadim’s original homage to her youthful beauty, their own relationship, and its inevitable end. Bardot was much like America’s Kim Novak—she loved

Cl ai re R i f f ard/ O p e n Ar t Pro du ct i o ns . Op p o si t e pa ge : © Sun s e t B ou le va rd/ Co r bi s ; Po p pe rf o to / Getty Imag es

owning her body.” So said Brigitte Bardot in her very last film, released in 1973, The Edifying and Joyous Story of Colinot. By this point in Bardot’s career and her life, her soul was far more important to her than the perfect body that had brought her fame, three husbands, one child, and international fame. Bardot was 39 years old when she retired from movies, four years older than she’d anticipated. She’d hoped to be gone by 35, before the encroachments of middle age marred her image. She was still a beauty, but time was taking its inevitable toll. Also, the white-hot frenzy had come and gone. Despite—

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This page: Brigitte Bardot posing for photographers at at the Mount Royal Hotel in London, 1959. > Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Brigitte Bardot uses a mirror while a crew member holds the clapperboard in front of her on the set of Contempt (Le Mépris), 1963; Bardot with Laurent Terzieff on the set of A Coeur Joie (An Open Heart), 1967; Bardot with Fritz Lang and Giorgia Moll in Contempt, 1963; Brigitte Bardot photographed by Sam Lévin, 1967; Michel Piccoli and Brigitte Bardot in a scene from Contempt; Brigitte Bardot toasts her new movie La Vérité with the costar Sami Frey (left) and film producer

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ica. And Bardot was better appreciated by American critics than those in her homeland. The actor and entertainer Yves Montand, who worked with Monroe in the 1960 movie Let’s Make Love would comment, “We have nothing like Marilyn in Europe. Well, Bardot, but she is known only for the body!” Neither woman got what she wanted from a career. But Bardot survived and Monroe, of course, did not. The two most famous alliterative initials—MM and BB—met just once, in London in 1956. Marilyn was filming The Prince and the Showgirl with Laurence Olivier and was newly married to Arthur Miller. She was at her apex. Bardot, who had been married to Roger Vadim for four years, was just about to explode in And God Created Woman. They literally ran into each other in the ladies’ room, during a command performance where both were required to curtsy and make small talk with Queen Elizabeth. Bardot would later recall, “She was just exquisite, the prettiest thing. Very shy.” She would also often condemn

Ar ch i ve/ G e tty I m ag es ; Sun s e t B o ule va rd vi a C or bi s ; E m ba ss y Pi c tu res f o r

nature and animals and freedom. She, like Kim, got out while the getting was good. But Novak allowed herself to be lured back to movies from time to time. Bardot stuck to her guns. Perhaps because she did not think she’d been a very good actress (which was not true) or perhaps because she’d been so scorched by fame—by what she was supposed to be, the image created for her by Vadim, which was partly her and partly his obsession—that she never looked back in regret. Bardot, although blonde and curvaceous and girlish, was the antithesis of America’s Marilyn Monroe. MM was a fantasy woman in her most popular films, a musical comedy star, an actress who rarely portrayed a real woman, with real issues. BB on the other hand, in her best movies (And God Created Woman, Contempt, A Very Private Affair, The Truth) would present reasonably complex variations on the alternately sullen or vivacious “sex kitten.” More interesting, Monroe was considered a great artist in Europe, but a joke in Amer-

Ke y sto n e - Fra n ce / Gam m a - Ke ys to n e v i a Ge tt y Im a ge s . O p p os i te p ag e : H u lto n

Henri-Georges Clouzot (right) during a ceremony held on set, June 1, 1960.

This page: Brigitte Bardot arrives at London’s Heathrow Airport to attend the premiere of her latest film Shalako, in which she plays an alluring countess. > Opposite page: Brigitte Bardot in St. Tropez, France, August, 1968; > Inset: Brigitte Bardot with

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the show biz “system” for having destroyed Monroe. As for Marilyn, who rarely acknowledged other blondes, she relented for Bardot, when asked. “I think she is so charming,” said Marilyn, who was also probably thinking, “Please stay in Europe!” Brigitte Bardot was born in Paris in 1934, in an upper-middle class Roman Catholic home. She was taught in private school and also at home. Brigitte was encouraged to satisfy her dancing aspirations, and studied ballet for three years at the Conservatoire de Paris. She also modeled. It was on the cover of Elle that 15-year-old Bardot caught the eye of film director Roger Vadim. He sought her out, and told her to forget modeling and become an actress. He was seven years her senior and apparently his advice struck a nerve. They would marry when Bardot was 18, and her film career began at just about the same time. Between 1952 and 1956 she appeared in almost 20 mostly silly films, a stage play (Jean Anouilh’s Invitation to the Castle), and was much fussed over at the 1956

Ce n t ra l Pre s s/ Ge t ty Im a ge s. O P po s i te p a ge : J e a n- P i e r re

Roger Vadim, 1972.

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Cannes Film Festival, in her bikini. She was well-known, she was delicious, she was so, so young. But she had yet to break through. Roger Vadim had waited long enough, and knew her well enough to finally put his image and ideal on the screen. It was called And God Created Woman and it made Bardot an instant international sensation. Was she an actress or simply a ravishing creature with long, wild blonde hair, impossibly full lips, huge dark eyes, and a backside that could topple every world religion? It did not matter. Within weeks of the film’s American release, she was “BB.” In the movie she is a confused young woman, more or less a prisoner of her emotions, most of which involve sex. Does she want her husband, her husband’s bother, or the wealthy older man who keeps popping up? The film presents a more or less bourgeois conclusion, but the uninhibited free spirit that was Bardot, wiped away tiresome critiques of the movie or her character. Nobody looked like Bardot at all. Nobody, up till that time, behaved the way Bardot did on screen. She seemed to both resent and relish her own beauty and its power over men. She had what men wanted, but what did she want—did her men, did any man, really care? In time, this aspect of her screen self—and very possibly her real self—would be refined, but nothing can touch the impact of Vadim’s introduction of his then-wife to the world. (Later, Vadim would attempt to mold another wife, Jane Fonda, into a Bardot image, but despite her beautiful body, Fonda exuded a centered, no-nonsense vibe that was at odds with the child-woman Vadim seemed to cherish. Ann-Margret would also display some Bardot-like qualities, but she

was altogether too aggressive! Vadim never worked with A-M, which is rather a pity.) Inevitably, Bardot’s stardom—and the fact he’d known her since her teenage years—ended the Vadim marriage in 1957. She would marry again in 1959, the handsome actor Jacques Charrier, her co-star in the charming (and blessedly non-exploitive) Babette Goes to War. They had a child, but soon the young couple were at war. It was her career, of course. Who could be married to this symbol, who created such a frenzy? She attempted suicide. They reconciled, but eventually parted. Bardot then made one of the most adult decisions of her life when she granted custody of their son, Nicolas, to Charrier. Years later she explained: “I was still a child myself, really. I couldn’t raise a child.” Despite pleas from Hollywood, Bardot remained firmly on French ground and her career continued apace. She was tauntingly perverse in The Truth; acted out aspects of her own relentlessly publicized life in A Very Private Affair; remarkably good as the dissatisfied wife in Jean-Luc Goddard’s Contempt; persuasively torn as a woman caught in an abusive relationship in Love On a Pillow; and wickedly entertaining with Jeanne Moreau in Louis Malle’s musical, Viva Maria! (Bardot had a lovely voice and could dance, too. She recorded a great many popular hits in the 1960s and 70s.) After Viva Maria!, with the exception of the underrated romantic melodrama, Two Weeks In September, Bardot’s films began to seem very much the same, and lacking in quality. But that hardly mattered. The swinging sixties were kind to Bardot. She looked divine in mini-skirts, in boots, dancing at

Bonnotte/Gamma-Key stone via Getty Imag es; RDA/Getty Imag es; Ghisla in D ssa r t/ Ga m m a - Ra p h o / Ge tty I m a ge s

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This page, clockwise from top left: Jessica Lange photographed by Douglas Kirkland, 1980; Lange and Dustin Hoffman in a scene from Tootsie, 1982; Lange and Ed Harris in Sweet Dreams, 1985; Lange photographed by Steven Meisel for Vanity Fair, 1991; Lange, Michael Sucsy, and Drew Barrymore photographed by Peter Stranks on the set of Grey Gardens, 2009;

This page, clockwise from top left: Brigitte Bardot, Jacques Charrier, and their

Bill Murray and Jessica Lange in Broken Flors, 2005; Jessica Lange as the face of Marc Jacobs Beauty in Broken Flowers, 2005; Jessica Lange as the face of Marc Jacobs Beauty in a

son, Nicolas, at 3 days old, 1960; Bardot starring in Mademoiselle Striptease, 1956;

campaign shoot by David in a campaign shoot by David Sims; > Opposite page:Mikhail Baryshnikov and Jessica Lange in Beverly Hills, 1982. David Sims; Mikhail Baryshnikov and

Marcello Geppettiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s photo of Brigitte Bardot in Spoleto, Italy, June, 1961; Bardot Guild in Beverly Hills, 1982. Jessica Lange and Gunter Sachs walking through JFK Airport for a trip to New York City, 1966; arriving at Bardot with French actor Alain Delon (right) in St. Tropez, France, 1968; Bardot

Jessica Lange in Beverly Hills, 1982. Jessica Lange arriving at the Jessica Lange arriving at the 18th annual Screen Actors

and singer/guitarist Sacha Distel arriving at Olympia music hall to sign autographs, October 8, 1958, Paris, France; Brigitte Bardot photographed by Ghislain Dussart wearing flowers in her hair, 1975. > Opposite page: Brigitte Bardot on the set of Her Bridal Night (La MariĂŠe est trop belle), wearing a dress by Pierre Balmain, 1956.

This page: Brigitte Bardot and Maurice Ronet in Les Femmes, 1969. > Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Brigitte Bardot in a scene from Boulevard du Rhum, 1971; Jean-Pierre Cassel and Brigitte Bardot in The Bear And The Doll (L’Ours et la Poupée), 1969; Bardot on set of À Coeur Joie, 1967; Bardot and Lino Ventura filming Boulevard du Rhum, 1971; Brigitte Bardot, stage name “Camille Javal”, dancing in a scene from the film Two Weeks In September, 1966; Bardot at a press conference for the movie Contempt (Le Mépris) in Rome, Italy, 1963; Bardot starring in Michel Deville’s film The Bear And

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boy the following year to celebrate her 40th birthday, there would no more BB onscreen ever again. In the vacuum of her retirement, BB asserted herself for a cause she had always been close to—animal rights. I recall interviewing George Hamilton, who was the male star of Viva Maria! What was Bardot like? Hamilton, who is never at a loss of innumerable words, replied: “To be honest, all I recall about Bardot is that she was surrounded by animals. Of every kind. That’s it, that’s the impression she made.” She condemned seal hunting, the consumption of horse meat. She became a vegetarian and, naturally, gave away every fur she’d ever owned. In 1986, BB established the Brigitte Bardot Foundation for the Welfare and Protection of Animals. In time she would auction off jewelry and other personal belongings for the cause. “I gave my youth and beauty to men. I am going to give my wisdom and experience to animals,” she declared. Bardot also did something else extraordinary—she aged, naturally. The St.Tropez sun had done its damage, the years piled on. BB remained untouched. No lifts, no skin peels, no attempt to stop nature. She appeared in public, gave press conferences and interviews (usually having to do with the an-

I ma ge s ; Key s to n e - Fra nc e / Ga m m a- Ke y st on e v i a G e tty I m ag es ; C S FF / R DA/ G e tty I m age s;

discothèques, tossing her famous mane of blonde hair wildly. There were romances and the paparazzi never tired of catching Bardot and her latest flame lounging half-dressed in St.Tropez. Her fame remained undiminished. BB even agreed to appear briefly—as herself—in an American film, Dear Brigitte. Once again, Hollywood hoped to snare her. She was not inclined. Her homegrown worship was enough. (Likely, she knew she might not survive the cutthroat ways of L.A.’s dealmakers, agents, and PR people. European filmmaking was considerably more relaxed.) Bardot married for the third time in 1966, to German playboy and millionaire Gunther Sachs. It looked good on paper, and in the papers—they were a much sought-after couple—but by 1969, they had had the best of each other, and parted. Now single again, and with her career sputtering, or at least not progressing, BB thought more about retiring before her fans had to face the inevitable—a no longer nubile BB. When she did announce her retirement in 1973, nobody believed her. As usual, many thought she would segue to America and test those waters, but Bardot was as good as her word. Although she did not abandon her image—she posed for Play-

O p po s i te p a ge : Para m o un t/ Ge t ty I ma ge s ; © S un s e t B o ule va rd /C o r bi s ; Reg L an c as te r / G etty

The Doll; Bardot shopping at Hollywood’s famous Schwab’s drug store, 1965.

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imal rights issues) and never flinched. When she was 50 she said: “Well, it is not terribly nice to be fifty and to look fifty, but…what else can one do?” Her sisters in cinema, Simone Signoret, Jeanne Moreau, and others displayed themselves in similar fashion, but Bardot would not return to the screen as an older woman. Not a recluse (like Dietrich) or a fantasist (like Mae West) but a woman who valued the image she created. Unlike so many others, Bardot was able to free herself from that image. In 1992, BB married Bernard d’ Ormale, a far right politician. Although Brigitte keeps to herself more or less, she has engendered some unpleasant publicity with remarks that have been seen as bigoted in a number of ways, towards a number of groups. On the other hand, she has referred to Sarah Palin as “stupid…a disgrace to women.” So, let’s give BB a big break at age 82. I do not linger on the later/current Bardot. She herself would refer us, with a wry smile, to her halcyon days as the world’s most provocative, desirable woman. She was wise in the ways of image and myth and the fallibility of those things. It would not be vanity for her to say, “Look at And God Created Woman. Because likely she would add: “Isn’t that what you want, what you need? How foolish. I was not her. She was not me. We were similar but not the same. I am Brigitte Bardot. But I am not ‘BB.’” u

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N o uve lle Va gu e © Pa r i s Ma tch Fran ç o i s Pagè s. O pp o si te p age : Te r r y O ’ N ei l l/ H u lto n Ar ch i ve/ Getty Imag es;

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This page: Brigitte Bardot leaning against a tree trunk wearing shorts, socks, and Gucci loafers photographed by Terry Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Neill in 1965; Bardot playing cards on the set of Shalako, 1968 (inset). > Opposite page, top to bottom: Marcello Mastroianni and Brigitte Bardot on the set of A Very Private Affair, 1962; Brigitte Bardot playing with a dog in CabriĂ¨s in southern France, 1989.

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Courtesy of Sachin & Babi

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This page: A Perla tank and Pea skirt, part of Sachin & Babi’s Noir Pre-Fall 2016 collection. > Opposite page: The floral motif on the Leith gown is made with a combination of machine and hand threadwork techniques. Jet beads are added to highlight and add depth and shine; these white Luiza pants add drama to any silhouette.

Dramatic Lines For Modern Times by

L i Ly H o a g L a n d

Call it Fashion’s categorical imperative: for a specialoccasion item to be perfect, it must be chic, well-made, and at a reasonable price. Often young women have to settle for the old “two out of three ain’t bad”—but actually, the results usually are. Women end up with either something cute that falls apart, a piece with sturdy seams that even their grandmother finds dowdy, or the perfect outfit whose price tag they can’t justify to themselves if they are only going to wear it once or twice (and because they already justified the price of that bag this week…). There is also increased pressure to keep finding new pieces thanks to this social media age of constant chronicling, when SPRING 2016/

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This page: The Paola gown’s skirt has flower appliques that were made by machine, then hand cut and applied to the base fabric, with sequins sewn to the dress in a linear motif. > Opposite page, clockwise from left: The Anita dress;

everyone has looked through party pictures and realized they’ve trotted out the same outfit one too many times. Luckily, two designers heard the call, as if millions of voices cried out: “Chic! Well made! Reasonably priced!” Babi and Sachin Ahluwalia, creators of the label Sachin & Babi, have been able to hit the trifecta over and over again, with their strong focus on evening and special-occasion dresses and separates. In fact, the Ahluwalias have become especially well-known and applauded for their evening separates that can be mixed and matched. “Because the modern girl’s wardrobe is adapting to the necessity of the seperates, we find the clientele is embracing them,” the two agreed. These two are designers who burst with ideas, with energizing outcomes. When asked about the inspiration behind their latest collection, they replied “classic Latin silhouettes, rich jewel tones, Flamenco flair, and a recent trip to Valencia and Granada.” The result: ruffled tiered flamingo maxiskirts, modern boleros, and their signature handwork which embodies an Old World elegance and charm, balanced by the ease and wearability that the modern girl demands. During this year’s New York Fashion Week, they presented their Fall 2016 collection of evening wear at 632 on Hudson, a house decorated with an impressive collection of antiques and artifacts. The collection was exhibited in an intimate setting with models positioned on different floors: draped across a couch, perched on an antique bed, or leaning over a balustrade. The presentation attracted not only the usual American fashion glossies like WWD and Vogue, but French publications

Courtesy of Sachin & Babi

the Julieta tee; the Jasmina tank.

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This page: The Ceclia tank is a modern way to wear the intricate and rich floral threadwork in not only formal but also casual settings. > Opposite page: Pairing the Enza tank with the Kasandra skirt is just one of a vast range of possibilities that Sachin & Babi’s seperates offer to successfully mix and match pieces from their collections.

like Madame Figaro gave their stamps of approval as well, proving that the brand translates very well across many different continents. Alongside pieces like the vibrant multi-tiered maxiskirts in a floral print, there were plenty of beautiful gowns, from a voluminous emerald green velvet and taffeta one to a simple black velvet strapless column. The Latin inspiration was abundently clear. Intricate embroidery work and embellishments sprinkled the looks, like those on a black lace applique gown with a plunging neckline and a ruby red cummerbund. The outfits showed expert craftsmanship combined with modern wit. Overall, the collection offered a fresh and youthful approach to eveningwear—at just the right price point. Every season, the two go through a similar process in creating their collections: “Starting from the embroideries, we move on to the fabrics—fabric is the birth of the design, allowing us to conceptualize the silhouette—then we add elements of things that have inspired us in between the collections, like art, music, or prints.” When asked about their current favorite material, they respond that they’re “obsessing over modern lace at the moment.” Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia know how to combine the best of modern silhouettes with classic tailoring, and create looks that appeal to any woman looking for style and exquisite fit. And what does the future hold for the brand? “We’re exploring the possibilities of bridal.” There might be some chic, well made, and affordable wedding dresses on the horizon—keep a look out. u

Courtesy of Sachin & Babi

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Smythson: Peer Of The Ream by

L i Ly H o a g L a n d

Co u r t es y o f Sm y th so n

September 29, 1887. London’s Bond Street is the luxury shopping center of the Western world. Frank Smythson throws open the shutters of Number 133, setting up shop between the auctioneer Phillips at No. 101, which specialized in stringed instruments and sheet music, and the jewelers Asprey at Nos. 165-169. Smythson, a man who values above all meticulous craftsmanship, is determined to found a brand of high quality goods, carefully sourced and made by British artisans. Over the following years, Smythson created the first portable featherweight diary—specifically designed to fit perfectly inside a gentleman’s breast pocket “without causing the least disfigurement”—the Bond Street bag, and bespoke stationary for royalty around the world. It wasn’t long before the name Smythson became a trademark of optimum quality, functionality, and exquisite craftsmanship. Jump forward 128 years, five months, and four days, to the opening night event of Smythson’s new Madison Avenue store. Samantha Cameron, creative consultant for Smythson and wife of Prime Minister David Cameron, welcomes movie stars and society heavyweights, who get their initials monogrammed onto

This spread: The new Madison Avenue Smythson store is exhibiting archives from Sir Winston Churchill, Katharine Hepburn, Sigmund Freud, Sir Hardy Amies, Vivien Leigh, and Diana, Princess of Wales.

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of recognition of individuals or companies who have supplied goods or services for at least five years to the Households of the British Royal Family. Her Majesty The Queen granted one in 1964, HRH The Prince of Wales in 1980, and HRH The Duke of Edinburgh in 2002. But you don’t need a crown to pick up a beautifully monogrammed diary of your own. Interestingly, the Smythson process of gold stamping has remained virtually unchanged from the 19th century. All gold stamping is carried out in-house where artisans use vintage presses sourced specifically for the quality they produce. One of these presses, chosen for its unrivalled classic design, was tracked down in a collector’s barn in the English countryside, restored to its former glory and installed in pride of place in the New Bond Street boutique. Each of the lettering stamps has been specifically created for Smythson and is individually applied by skilled craftsmen. Tradition, quality, and practicality—Smythson has a winning formula that lasts through the ages. u

Co u r te sy o f Sm y th so n

everything from travel journals to phone cases. A bulldog named Winston, wearing a jaunty top hat, paddles among the partygoers. This year, the British Invasion came in high quality leather. To celebrate the new store at 667 Madison Avenue, researchers went through the brand’s extensive archives and pulled out some of the more remarkable pieces for an exclusive ‘Curious World of Smythson’ exhibition, including: Frank Smythson’s first-ever advertisement card for his new store in 1887, where he ‘begs to announce’ that he has opened a store which will provide London—and later the world—with ‘stationery and fancy articles of a high-class character;’ a Bond Street Bag from the 1900s; the first featherweight diary from 1908; personalized visiting cards, stationary, diaries, and other items from luminaries like Sir Winston Churchill, Vivien Leigh, Sigmund Freud, designer Sir Hardy Amies (official dressmaker to Queen Elizabeth II), Katharine Hepburn, and Diana, Princess of Wales. The company’s ties to the British Royal Family are extensive. They currently hold three Royal Warrents, a highly prized mark

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This page, clockwise from top: The colorful interior of the Madison Avenue store displays Smythson’s famed leather-bound notebooks; Winston the English bulldog was on hand to welcome guests on opening night; the store’s façade; a notebook from the special collection by French graphic artist Vahram Muratyan. > Opposite page: Shopping with style.

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Emilio Pucci

Pegg

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hot For Fall by

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ElizabEth MEighEr

C ou r te sy o f re sp e cti ve de si gn e r s

y Mo ffitt phot wear ogra ing a phed mini colo by h rful, dres usba long s wi nd W th ex slee illia ved tra l m Cl Rudi ong axto flow Gern n, er ea reich rring s in 1967 .

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Extra Long Sleeves Be it a shirttail cuff, blazer sleeve, bell sleeve, or flutter sleeve, all sleeves this season extend far beyond the “norm.” Sure it

or stirring that martini require a little more effort, but hey—it’s all in the

J a s o n Wu

Sachin & Babi

Designer Name

Ve ra Wa n g

Calvin Klein

name of fashion, right?

Miu Miu

Jonathan Simkhai

may make eating pasta

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B ea sl m D i ganienr N a m e C a ro l i n a H e r re ra Off-White

Gucci

Lanvin

Va l e n t i n o

e, ” “H om e Al on Se ym ou r in ge n Te ll er ur Je St ep ha ni e by ot og ra ph ed ph d an e Jo e Ze . st yl ed by az in e, 19 99 fo r W M ag

Lo e w e

Designer Name

G i ve n c h y

Chloé

Alexander McQueen

Chanel

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Marchesa

Fifty Shades Of Blush O s c a r d e l a Re n t a

Certain colors always seem to work: black, camel, crisp white, heather gray... A new hue has been aded to the fold, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s taking over as a universal neutral. From the slightest hint of pink to cheeky nudes, blush has become the new

Co u r te sy o f re sp e ct i ve d e si g ne r s

Re e m A c r a

Monique Lhuillier

true neutral.

Hugo Boss

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Ra l p h L a u r e n

ChloĂŠ

Ra qu el Wel ch ph ot og ra ph ed by sh e lo un ge N or m an Pa s on a ye ll rk in so n as ow ve lv et ee n co uc h, w co at , le at he ea ri ng a ca r gl ov es , an m el d la ce st oc ki ng s, 19 67 .

Katie Ermilio

Chanel

Balenciaga

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P ro e n z a S c h o u l e r

Off-White

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Neutral Territory Reminiscent of ’90s minimalism à la Calvin Klein and Jil Sander, camel—in all of its many variations, ranging from shades of putty, ochre, pebble, khaki, and Stella McCartney

toffee—has returned to

its anything but boring.

J . C re w

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E r i n Fe t h e r s t o n

M i c h a e l Ko r s

the runaways and these days

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Gloves Are On

Alexander McQueen Chanel

Ro d a r t e

Dennis Basso

Gucci

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Gloves are the new must-have accessory. Designers ranging from Chanel, Gucci, and Marc Jocobs made

runways, highlighting gloves of all kinds, colors, lengths, Marc Jacobs

and embellishments (think fringe,

Lo u i s Vu i t t o n

HermĂ¨s O s c a r d e l a Re n t a

Cushnie et Ochs

Prada

lace, and fingerless options).

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Cour tesy of resp ective d esig ners

this trend dominant on the

M a i s o n M a rg i e l a

Balmain A model w e a ri n g e lb o w -l e p h o to g ra n g th g lo phed by ve s, Ir vi n g P e n n fo r th e M a rc h o f Vo g u e is su e in 19 6 4 .

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Erdem

Gucci

Va l e n t i n o

Marchesa

S a i n t L a u re n t

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Liquid Gold Sequins, glittery embroidery, beads, glistening fringe, and all things metallic raged on the runways this season. The theme was “go big or go home,” with liquid gold skirts at Ralph Lauren, layers of lustrous Lo u i s Vu i t t o n

fringe at Erdem, and a nautical-

M i c h a e l Ko r s

Dennis Basso

Céline

Monique Lhuillier

Tommy Hilfiger, to name a few.

Lanvin

themed full-sequin dress at

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Lo e w e Ra l p h L a u re n

To m m y H i l f i g e r

Co u r t es y o f res p e ct i ve de si gn e r s

P at ti H an se n w ea ri n g h ea d -t (a n d a fu o -t o e g o r b o le ro ), ld p h o to g ra p h ed b y fo r th e A S te ve n M u g u st is su ei se l e of US V o g u e, 2 0 04.

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Wellness As A Forte Irene Forte breezes through the entrance of Brown’s Hotel in London, one of 11 properties belonging to her father Sir Rocco Forte’s Rocco Forte Hotels. She is chic but demure in presentation, with eyes that resemble the color of the Mediterranean Sea—as inherited from her Italian mother, Aliai Forte. Proceeding to a room that has hosted the likes of Queen Victoria and Sir Winston Churchill as well as Agatha Christie and Rudyard Kipling, she greets the great Madeleine Shaw: the chef/nutritionist debuting a “clean” menu with Brown’s Hotel, who is seated for tea. We are invited to order the “Superfood Energy Balls”—three delish bites of cinnamon, goji, and raisin; cashew, coconut, and date; and almond and chocolate—with our green tea.

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ElizabEth Quinn brown

This collaboration is among the initiatives that Irene, who serves as brand manager, and her sister Lydia Forte, who serves as bar/restaurant development manager, are encouraging at Rocco Forte Hotels—well, when they aren’t entertaining their beaus Jacobi Anstruther-Gough-Calthrope and Dimitri Chandris, respectively, in destinations such as Lyford Cay and Mustique. (Irene maintains that she prefers the vibe of pubs like the Harwood Arms in Fulham to restaurants like Sexy Fish in Mayfair—which could be why, recently, she was heralded as “the sweetest girl in London” by Tatler.) Of her role at Rocco Forte Hotels, Irene explains, “I turned around to my dad over a year and a half ago and said, ‘I would really like to get my teeth into the spas. I think we could

Co u r te sy o f Ro c co Fo r te H ot e ls

This page: Irene Forte, who serves as brand manager at Rocco Forte Hotels, is evolving their spas; Irene with her father, Sir Rocco Forte, at the 175th anniversary of Brown’s Hotel (inset). > Opposite page: Rocco Forte Hotels’ Verdura Resort in Sicily, Italy, produces the ingredients for Forte Organics—which includes the Opuntia Day Cream (featuring opuntia as well as hazelnut oil and olive oil).

been handpicked from the resort.” The oils—which are extracted from olives as well as from nuts like almonds (“Very Sicilian. Very active.”)—are complemented with oligomineral water from the Madonie Regional Natural Park. Rocco Forte Hotels is a brand that continues to evolve, and Irene is its consummate ambassador. She exercises five or six times per week (“I’m a bit of a loon. I completely mix it up.”) and she boasts a mane that could be an advertisement for Forte Organics (“This comes from my mum. She has lots of hair. I still use Redken. It’s an Italian thing. Lots of Italians have so much hair. I think I eat a lot of good oils and lots of good fats but who knows?”). Beyoncé didn’t wake up like this—Irene Forte did. u

Co u r t es y o f Ro cco For te H o te ls

create quite a fun concept.’ And his response is, you know, ‘How much is it going to cost?’ And I’m always like, ‘Nothing. I’ll figure it out.’ And he’s like, ‘OK, get on with it.’” And thus, the brand introduced at the beginning of 2016 its “wellness” programs (Rocco Forte Fitness, Rocco Forte Health, Rocco Forte Nourish, and Rocco Forte Rituals), which were chased by the launch of Forte Organics. Forte Organics is a collection of products that wasdesigned for the spas, featuring a variety of ingredients sourced from Verdura Resort in Sicily: “We have a huge organic vegetable garden there, so all the ingredients [like lemons] have

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This page: Views of Rocco Forte Hotelsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Verdura Resort, whose Verdura Spa is setting the standard for Rocco Forte Spas with its series of programs: Rocco Forte Fitness, Rocco Forte Health, Rocco Forte Nourish, and Rocco Forte Rituals. > Opposite page, clockwise from above: Sisters Irene Forte and Lydia Forte are creating initiatives for their fatherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brand; an area for relaxation; the bar at the spa; Irene and Lydia are on the scene, as photographed at The Ivy Chelsea Garden with Chelsy Davy; Forte Organics sources the almonds for its almond oil from the gardens at Verdura Resort. For more information, visit roccofortehotels.com.

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A Caring Community Fountain House’s “College Re-Entry” program helps students with mental illness realize their future.

It was the summer of 2005 when I realized my life as I knew it had changed forever. I was at my parents’ home in Sagaponack, New York, the site of so many happy times, when I paused in front of my brother Danny’s bedroom, now empty. “Where did my brother go?” I recalled thinking. I didn’t mean literally. I knew that he was at McLean Hospital in Boston getting treatment for bipolar disorder. What I yearned to understand was how Danny’s brain could have betrayed him this way? Danny was born with a talent for acting and comedy that seemed like a divine gift. It was recognized early, and he had performed on stage and on-screen. When we were younger, I would leave congratulatory notes on his bed for him to find when he came home. And when he got his first movie role, I screamed and jumped around the room with him, beyond excited for his future. Danny was my big brother, and like so many younger siblings, I worshipped him. Danny had gone missing prior to this hospitalization. We knew he was living on the streets of New York City, but we hadn’t been able to find him. We were out looking every day, and the one time we saw him, he ran away from us. Rumors circulated during that time that Danny was estranged from us, and had been for years. This couldn’t be further from the truth. Our entire family, Danny included, was extremely close. Danny was ill. We knew that every second of every day, there was a chance Danny could get hurt, or even killed. The reality was that, without treatment, Danny’s illness stole his ability to understand the consequences of his words and actions, and, in the end, the only person my sweet brother was in danger of hurting was himself. I had spent nights on an Internet chatroom for families of those with bipolar disorder, and developed a friendship with a

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K at i e Z o r n

woman I knew only by her screen name. Her son was also ill, and I valued our talks. She worked on a farm in Boise, Idaho, yet I felt so connected to her. The problem was that when I signed off, the loneliness I had kept at bay enveloped me once again as I sat there in the dark room. As my family and I struggled to understand what Danny had gone through, our dear family friend Lorna Graev came over to my home and reached out her hand to me. “Katie,” she said, her voice strong and certain, “take my hand and let me help you step into the light.” With that, she introduced me to Fountain House. All the negative perceptions of mental illness became obsolete the minute I walked through the front doors at Fountain House. Here, in the middle of New York City, stood a beautiful brick building and, within its walls, a community that cared about both its members and values. Fountain House has been a leader in the field of mental health since its inception in 1948. It is the only mental health organization to win the Hilton Humanitarian Award: the world’s largest humanitarian award given to organizations that have made extraordinary contributions to alleviating human suffering. Fountain House helps more than 1,500 New Yorkers with serious mental illness learn new skills for work, school, and life, and, most importantly, form a community. By joining the board of Fountain House, I knew I would be making a difference. Since joining, I have had the opportunity to work on some projects and I am really excited about Fountain House’s newest pioneering effort, the College Re-Entry program. College Re-Entry provides a non-clinical resource for college students, ages 18–30, who have had their educations interrupted by mental illness.

Christopher Scholz

This page: The “Great Room” at Fountain House’s College Re-Entry Center.

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Fountain House has been a leader in the field of mental health since its inception in 1948. It is the only mental health organization to win the Hilton Humanitarian Award.

The goal of the program is to not only help students return to college, but to offer various tools and techniques students need to strengthen skills, reduce stress, and increase independence. College Re-Entry has designed an innovative fee-based, semester-long curriculum for young adults that combines academic preparedness classes with wellness workshops and one-on-one academic coaching. I am both proud and astounded that this initiative is the first of its kind. Certainly, there is no lack of need for such a program: “More than 25 percent of college students have been treated by a mental health professional within the past year,” according to the National Alliance on Mental Illness. My hope is that, in time, the College Re-Entry program— whose core program has helped 85 percent of its students successfully return to school—will become widely known among university students and staff, so that no one ever has to feel they don’t have options. To help in this effort, the Dalton School is partnering with College Re-Entry on April 19 in a health and wellness symposium designed to help young adults and their families prepare for mental health challenges students might face in college. Every parent of junior and senior students in the Independent Schools Admissions Association of Greater New York is invited to attend to learn more about this important and growing issue. Both Fountain House and its College Re-Entry program give people hope. I think I can sum this up by quoting a letter I received from an old friend of Danny’s, who is also living with mental illness. She only learned about Fountain House recently, and after her tour she wrote me the following: “I think the hardest part of managing bipolar disorder is trying to be healthy and contributing to society and doing something meaningful while keeping a secret. Fountain House seems like it would be a great place to not have to hide and yet be treated not like a person with a serious mental illness. I never imagined such a place would exist.” Welcome to the light… u Danny Zorn lost his battle to mental illness in October 2012. His legacy of helping people lives on through the Danny Zorn Education Scholarship. For more information about the College Re-Entry Program, visit collegereentry.org.

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C h r i s t o p h e r S c h o l z ; G l o r i a D a w s o n ; Le s l i e B a r b a ro

This page, clockwise from top left: The Fountain House building faĂ§ade; academic coaching; students have access to a wellness center and gym; Danny and Katie Zorn; the College Re-Entry Centerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s front door; the lounge, which is also used as a yoga studio. > Opposite page, from above: Katie Zorn with Danny Zorn Scholarship winner, Billy Wallace; a classroom; the College Re-Entry Center was designed by Elskop Scholz Architecture & Design.

Runway Review The Fall 2016 collections were a unique blend of beauty and peculiarity—and many items were available right away. > Carolina Hererra We all have a “personal” museum in New York; “favorite” is too timid a word. Mine is The Frick, one of the more intimate galleries in the city. For the second time now, Carolina Herrera presented her collection at the museum, where a group of models circled around the Garden Court in her latest offerings, mainly three-quarter-length dresses that shined in the museum’s baronial setting. For daywear, a category Herrera is continually improving, the plaid palazzo pants were the major standout. For eveningwear, there was an embroidered organza halter gown in deep violet, an almost sporty dress that was hands-down the most gorgeous

Alex TrAvers

item in the collection. Modeled on the stunning Maria Borges. it was a feast for the eyes. Herrera has frequently voiced her interest in technology and her desire to make fashion for the future. She doesn’t want people to think her clothes are out of the past. She mainly achieves this with her fabric choices and embroideries. Still, we know these are clothes made for events with strict dress codes. But the reality is: her outfits hold your attention no matter when or where you see them. What makes Herrera great is the way she uses clothing to express her passion for dressing up. This time around, using a palette of purples, nudes, and sea greens, she has prepared the ultimate fix for anyone who enjoys fashion shows: a collection to get lost in.

This page, clockwise from top left: Photographers get ready to take their runway snaps; front-row guests at the Altuzarra show; Marc Jacobs presented his Fall 2016 collection at the Park Avenue Armory. > Opposite page: Looks from Carolina Herrera’s Fall 2016 show, which took place at the Garden Court inside The Frick Collection.

Patrick McMullan

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This page: Looks from Lacoste’s Fall 2016 men’s and women’s fashion show, which took place at Spring Studios and featured 1980s-video-game embroideries of pixelated pine trees and jumping skiers. > Opposite page: Outakes

Pa tr i c k Mc Mu lla n

and outfits from the Altuzarra show, which included a large selection of paisley dresses.

> Altuzarra I didn’t like this show. I didn’t like the way it walked, talked, strutted, and sold itself. I found many of the graphics to be overly decorative, splattered with the kind of amoeba-like paisley you’d see on the shirts of El Chapo. The jackets were also unwieldy and bulky, odd for a designer who’s known for dreaming up garments that expertly walk the line between seductive and ceremonious. And yet if you care about American fashion and the creative drive that still exists in the people who want to make distinctive clothes you have to look at this collection carefully. Even if it’s just to argue about it. Joesph Altuzarra isn’t dead inside like so many designers who show in New York. His creativity knows no bounds, and his tailoring is perfect. (The last time I spoke with him, he told me about his work with a bullwhip maker in New Mexico whose artifacts helped Altuzarra dream up his popular Ghianda bag.) This season, he name-checked Only Lovers Left Alive, a vampire film by director Jim Jarmusch, as inspiration. So why do I care about this Fall 2016 show, especially when it nearly drove me

up the wall? Because its strange mix of utility and costume is actually something worth grappling with. Altuzarra starts on strong ground with knitwear and skirts with strategically placed slits. Then come those decorated dusters, the ponchos with frills, the big coats with the bigger fur collars. Do all these pieces, including heavy furs, frills, and busy patterns, interlock? I guess they do, sadly in ways feel like more of a tribute to his recent museum trips than to his work as a designer. For a recent collection, Altuzarra used a cigarette lighter, an item his French mother used to collect, to fasten a bag. For Fall ’16, his ambition is admirable, but it no longer feels personal. What you see is a kind of maddening mess, more satisfying to dissect after the show is over than to live with in the moment. > Lacoste The set looked a bit like an old ski lodge, but the clothes were fun and fairly easygoing. Say what you will about the 1980s-video-game graphics at the show. Season after season, without fail, creative director Felipe Oliveira Baptista makes the brand more and more desirable. SPRING 2016/

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This page: Looks from the Fall 2016 Marc Jacobs show at the Park Avenue Armory. > Opposite: Dennis Basso’s Fall 2016 show took place

> Marc Jacobs Don’t expect anything standard-issue from this unpredictably tender and unapologetically twisted fashion show. Marc Jacobs has the raw talent to restore originally and daring to clothing, and he proves it here. His Fall 2016 is a freak show where outsiders and outcasts rule, a “fuck you” to formality that feels as loud and potent as punk rock. On the surface, his clothes this season appear gothic in their styling. Black Victorian lace flirts with slick laser-cut leather. Thigh-high boots with chain buckles clank under ballooning skirts. Capes and coats swallow up embroidered silk dresses. It’s an odd yet dazzling mix of fun and fright where everything is excessive—the furs, the feathers, the sequins, the eight-inch platform shoes, the silhouettes. Black lips, pale skin, and Rita Hayworth hair are all part of the provocative subtext for Jacob’s flair for theatrics. Sure, a few of the outfits look clumsy, and a few others are fussy. But Jacobs is a true visionary with uncommon insights into hearts in torment. In trying to reshape the world around his fantasies, his shows take on the transformative power of fashion. Some may call it good showmanship, but it’s really pure magic. > Dennis Basso Liz Taylor in Butterfield 8. That’s what this show reminds me of. Silk slips under fox furs. Little, lacy spaghetti-strap numbers. All very likable. All provocative. I enjoy this kind of a Dennis Basso show. It’s true to the designer’s aesthetic: big visual motifs that demand your attention. In a way, he’s embracing the glamour of the past rather than searching for what he thinks people want, and that adds to the collection’s confidence. (After all, aren’t fur coats and slip dresses timeless?) The real power of this show comes from simply living it up, and that’s what his girls do. Like Basso himself, they walk with swagger. They’re sure of themselves. They show a little skin. They party and they wear the most expensive materials available. And, yes, they have a hell of a time doing it. So why not join in on the fun? Back when the show took place in early February, Basso made a few of the gowns available for sale right after the runway show. That’s new for him and his team. but it seems to be working out nicely. His gowns, which usually wouldn’t hit stores for a few more months, are already making appearances at galas. It sounds strange, but I hope to see the brand continue to move forward into the future without losing its love for the past.

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inside the official New York Fashion Week venue at Moynihan Station.

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that Browne is the master of sartorial oddity, and absent that, of the fashion show that leaves you wondering what the hell to make of it. His outings are like bizarre dreams; you may not fully understand what is happening but you’ll surely want to tell people about it the next day. For this Fall 2016 show—Browne presents his women’s wear in New York and men’s in Paris, for reasons I have never fully understood—there was less suspense but more creativity. The focus here was on tailoring, but a kind that surgically mixed together different types of traditional garments. Blazer jackets and winter coats were sewn together to form a new type of jacket, just as shirttails stood in for the centers of his pleated skirts. Blended together, they looked fresh and functional. Surprisingly, the only surreal elements here were the hats, if you can even call them that. Crafted by milliner Stephen Jones, these curvilinear curiosities has lives of their own. A gray tie, starched and sculpted to form a circle, framed the face of a few models. Others in red and black jutted out from collars, as if blown up by a gust of wind and then frozen by the cold. From the set to the clothes, the experience was elating. u

Co u r te sy o f Ralp h L a ure n ; Pa tr i c k M c mu lla n

>Polo Ralph Lauren A Polo Ralph Lauren show doesn’t usually get the runway treatment, but I have a hunch that’s because these are clothes made for everyday life. Cashmere sweaters. Toggle coats. Track pants. Denim. Little black dresses. The items we use the most. So presenting them at the Ralph Lauren Madison Avenue showroom, where groups of models lounged around in a causal setting, felt right. All of the clothes in the Fall 2016 Polo collection are fairly simple, and many are punctuated with Western touches—frills, brown suede, John Wayne hats. It’s nothing new, but the theme works well for Lauren. We can count on it like we can our favorite shirt or pair of jeans. All us know have that go-to outfit, the one we know we can rely on, the one we probably wear too often. Luckily, this collection looks like it offers a whole bunch of those. > Thom Browne Whenever I’m savoring one of Thom Browne’s magnificent presentations, I can usually look around and see a set that looks as if it was created by Ken Adams. A group of deranged-looking models usually won’t be far behind. That’s Browne: all-in and over-the-top. Those who are even slightly familiar with his work know

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This page: Scenes from Thom Browneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fall 2016 collection. > Opposite: Outtakes and outfits from the filming of Ralph Laurenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Polo collection for women, which was shown to editors and buyers at his Madison Avenue showroom.

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On March 10, Animal Haven—a nonprofit organization founded in 1967 that finds homes for abandoned cats and dogs throughout the Tri-State area, and provides behavior intervention when needed to improve chances of adoption—invited guests (and their pets) to dine at the penthouse of 10 Sullivan. Hosts Fabiola Beracasa, Alexandra Burch, Louisa Burch, Amanda Hearst, Nicky Hilton, and Jared Seligman celebrated with Property Markets Group’s Kevin Maloney and Brett Wolfe as well as celebri-pup @toastmeetsworld. Virginia can be for lovers, because New York is for animal lovers...

1. Nicky Hilton with Rubia 2. Yale Breslin, Ashley Olsen, and Jared Seligman 3. Alison Chemla and Sasha Bikoff 4. Georgia Fowler 5. Carole Radziwill 6. Barron Hilton with Nobu 7. Amanda Hearst with Brett Wolfe

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“When you think of Barneys, you think of Seventh Avenue at 17th Street,” said Fred Pressman, son of Barney Pressman (who started the business in 1923). And now Barneys—which has resided at 660 Madison Avenue since 1993—returns to its roots by opening a store at 101 Seventh Avenue. Of course, it was unveiled with a bang deserving of Barneys: a commingling of the most avant-garde of downtown with the chicest of uptown, from Susanne Bartsch and Derek Blasberg to Lydia Fenet and Rachelle MacPherson. So it goes: Old New York is, again, New New York.

1. Andy Cohen 2. Vashtie Kola 3. Garrett Neff and Derek Blasberg 4. Kate Schelter, Mickey Boardman, and Michael Carl 5. David Barton and Simon Doonon 6. Kevin Barba and Elizabeth Kurpis 7. Janice Alida 8. Lydia Fenet

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The Frick Collection hosted “Palladium Nights,” where Carolina Herrera and her swans preened around the pool. The chairmen of the event (Lily Aldridge, Rickie De Sole, Patricia Lansing, Amory McAndrew, Joann Pailey, and Olivia Palermo) hosted the soirée, which was themed “Last Days of Disco.” And per the rules of disco, the party went on and on and on (or, well, to midnight) as Bill Cunningham snapped the scene. The icing on the evening was the menu, which featured Belvedere cocktails and Olivier Cheng–catered desserts (including “disco” truffles and “glitter” donuts).

1. Nicky Hilton and Barron Hilton 2. Ashley Platt and Amanda Kahn 3. Patricia Herrera Lansing, Carolina Herrera, and Carolina Herrera de Báez 4. Kyra Kennedy and Kick Kennedy 5. Edward Barsamian and Micaela Erlanger 6. Alexandra Richards 7. Rickie De Sole and Wes Gordon

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New York Andrew Saffirâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s The Cinema Society is the reason

that there are bright lights in the big city, creating a culture of cinema that has come to rival Los Angeles... This season, the series of Cinema Society screenings included The Bronze (with an after-party at Jimmy at the James Hotel), Demolition (with an after-party at the Standard Hotel), Miles Ahead (with an after-party at The Blond at 11 Howard), and I Saw the Light (with an after-party at Jimmy at the James Hotel). Take it from us: each and every screening was a must-seeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and each and every event was a must-be-seen-at.

1. Nina Agdal 2. Cecily Strong 3. Liam McMullan and Tom Hiddleston 4. Zach Weiss, Peter Davis, and John Flannigan 5. Sophie Sumner 6. Jake Gyllenhaal and Naomi Watts 7. Elizabeth Kurpis and Kelly Killoren Bensimon 8. Helena Christensen 9. Alan Cumming and Andrew Saffir

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Palm Springs Moët & Chandon—a brand that continues to

be synonymous with the sport of tennis—hosted its inaugural “Holding Court” dinner on the eve of the BNP Paribas Open finals (featuring a championship between Novak Djokovic and Milos Raonic). The glitteriest of guests gathered on the center court at Indian Wells Tennis Stadium, where they were treated to delectable course after delectable course designed by the world-famous Nobu. The meal, which was paired with vintage champagnes from Moët & Chandon, was as sparkling and starry as the match in the morning... u

1. Ruben Torres and Hilary Swank 2. Lorenzo and Lilla Soria 3. Atmosphere 4. Holland Roden 5. Caggie Dunlop and Scott Eastwood 6. Cara Santana and Jesse Metcalfe 7. Whitney Port

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1. A BATHER WITH HER CAMERA:

A photograph by Richard Rutledge, as featured in Vogue (June 1956). 2. GUERLAIN Be bronze, with the legend of Terracotta; $53. 3. REVISION SKINCARE This serum features Hyaluronic Acid plus a blend of extracts from fruits such as apple and watermelon; $65. 4. CAUDALIE Cleanse your visage with this blend of oils—almond, cator, grape-seed, and sunflower—to scrub and soften; $28. 5. RE:BEAUTY Open your eyes to the power of re:Vitaplex, which promises to “re:pair, re:structure, and re:illuminate” your skin; $53. 6. CLARINS The Multi-Active Jour is a day cream that, when paired with the Multi-Active Nuit, addresses aging through the power of antioxidants; $53. 7. TOM FORD These products—the Sheer Cheek Duo in “Bicoastal” ($78) and the Soleil Contouring Compact in “The Afternooner” ($108)—guarantee a glowing complexion. 8. PLUM Neutralize the effects of the city that never sleeps with the City Blocker; $12 at Haven Spa (250 Mercer Street, 212.343.3515).

brings beauty (and more) to her marriage with Keith Richards. 2. CLÉ DE PEAU BEAUTÉ Snap, crackle, and pop with these four shades of lacquer; $25 each. 3. BED HEAD BY TIGI Spray the Beach Bound “Protection Spray for Coloured Hair” to shield your blonde from the sun; $18.99 at The Drawing Room (148 Spring Street, 212.226.2600). 4. JUICY COUTURE Summer is synonymous with rosé, but Summer 2016 is synonymous with Viva La Juicy Rosé: a sensational ode to pink champagne; $54–94. 5. JUICY COUTURE Sunder Romance (with notes of bergamot, ginger, and pear) is sure to embrace your senses; $54–94. 6. HAMPTON SUN FOR ANTHROPOLOGIE Baby your skin with this SPF 35—as designed for the Hamptons, and beyond; $12 at anthropologie.com. 7. ORIBE These products—the clarifying shampoo “The Cleanse” ($44) and the replenishing condi-tioner “Essential Antidote” ($46)—combine for perfection. 8. MUGLER Mugler Angel Muse is the newest from the designer Thierry Mugler’s universe of scents; $95. 1. PATTI HANSEN

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Valery Joseph is known for preening the swans of the Upper East Side, with salons at 1044 Madison Avenue (between 79th and 80th streets) as well as at 660 Madison Avenue (at Barneys) and 1457 Third Avenue (between 82nd and 83rd streets). But in October 2015, he expanded his empire to 25 Central Park West (at 63rd Street)—because the babes of the Upper West Side deserve a “mane” man, too! “The Upper West Side is a great, upscale neighborhood that we felt has been very neglected,” explains Joseph, who has coiffed the likes of Jennifer Creel and Anna Wintour. “The area has been in great need of an upscale, full-service hair salon.” The Russian-born master cut his “shears” as a member of the Israel Defense Forces: he became injured, so he started to style the soldiers. Fast-forward, and he has come to earn a following in New York, where everyone from private-schoolers (like Stefani Germanotta, a.k.a. Lady Gaga) to their mothers and grandmothers have flocked to his expertise.

This page: Valery Joseph has opened a salon at 25 Central Park West, at 63rd Street: 212.517.7377. > Opposite page: Genevieve Bahrenburg— who stunned on the cover of the March 2016 issue of Quest—poses with her stylist, Valery Joseph. Here, she is dressed in Veronica Beard with shoes by Stuart Weitzman.

And his reputation is, indeed, flourishing on the Upper West Side at is has on the Upper East Side, where these women— whom he describes as “very high-end, elegant, classy women that like and expect good service, as well as the perfect color, cut, and (of course) style”—are as delighted as their sisters across Central Park. u For more information, contact Valery Joseph (25 Central Park West, 212.517.7377) or visit valeryjoseph.com. SPRING 2016/

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In your clothes, avoid too much gaudiness; do not value yourself upon an embroidered gown; and remember that a reasonable word, or an obliging look, will gain you more respect than all your fine trappings.” —Sir George Savile, Advice to a Daughter. This season, designers opted for full skirts and sweeping trains in an array of bright and bold colors, evoking the allure of oldHollywood glam and enchantment. 1. HORST P. HORST’S photo of model Fiona Campbell-Walter wearing a black, white, and emerald green evening gown for Vogue, 1952. 2. TOM FORD Shiny calf Spike Heel Sandal in black; $1,290, at tomford.com. 3. BETTERIDGE Estate Betteridge Collection emerald and diamond pendant earrings, showcasing two pear-shaped emeralds weighing approximately 2.8 carats, surrounded by diamonds. $24,000. 4. SACHIN & BABI From Sahin & Babi’s Fall 2016 ready-to-wear collection. For inquiries, please call 212-996-5200. 5. CAROLINA HERRERA Carolina Herrera’s “Goldie” bag in black. For inquiries, please call 866-254-7660.

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A model wearing a pink gown and white gloves photographed by Irving Penn for Vogue, March, 1964. 2. NIRAV MODI The diamond Lotus earrings from Nirav Modiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lotus Collection feature stylized lotus blossoms set with faceted pearshaped, rose-cut diamonds as inner petals and delicately set brilliant-cut diamonds as surrounds. Diamonds of over 2.5 carats are set in 18-kt. white and rose gold. $18,300. 3. CAROLINA HERRERA Embroidered wool gazar gown from Carolina Herreraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fall 2016 ready-to-wear collection. For inquiries, please call 866-254-7660. 4. JUDITH LEIBER Pink, crystal-embellished clutch; $1,995, at major luxury department stores worldwide (for listings go to judithleiber.com). 1. IRVING PENN

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1 Chanel gowns photographed by Man Ray for for Harper’s Bazaar in 1937. 2. TIFFANY & CO. The Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Sixteen Stone ring in 18-kt. gold and platinum with round brilliant diamonds and the Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger alternating bracelet of diamonds and onyx. For pricing, visit tiffany.com or call 800.843.3269. 3. ESCADA Back and white, floor length evening gown from Escada’s Fall 2016 ready-towear collection. For inquiry, please call 800-869-8424, ext. 1. 4. CHANEL Minaudière in black and ivory made of resin and brass; price upon request, at chanel.com. 5. ROGER VIVIER Belle Vivier Trompette pumps in silk satin with Crystalencrusted buckle, square toe, and 10cm heel; $1,050, at store.rogervivier.com. 1. CHANEL

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1. VERSACE Tim Walker’s photo of Karen Elson wearing a Versace organza and chiffon dress for the April, 2008 issue of US Vogue. 2. HARRY WINSTON The Incredibles by Harry Winston Ruby and Diamond Cluster necklace set in platinum. Price upon request by calling 800.988.4110 or visiting harrywinston.com. 3. MARCHESA A sweeping, crimson, evening dress in layered tulle from Marchesa’s Fall 2016 ready-to-wear collection. Marchesa is sold in high end department stores worldwide including Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Net-A-Porter in the US. 4. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN “Hot Chick” pumps in seductive black-tored dégradé patent leather with a plunging 130mm pitch; $945, at us.christianlouboutin.com.

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> Bergdorf Goodman: bergdorfgoodman.com. > Betteridge: betteridge.com. > Bloomingdale’s: 800.777.0000 or bloomingdales.com. > Bottega Veneta: 212.371.5511 or bottegaveneta.com. > Breitling: breitling.com/en. > Brunello Cucinelli: brunellocucinelli.com/en. > Bulgari: bulgari.com. > Burberry Prorsum: 877.217.4085 or burberry.com.

C > Calvin Klein: 866.513.0513 or calvinklein.com. > Carolina Herrera: 212.249.6552 or carolinaherrera.com. > Cartier: 212.446.3400 or cartier.us. > Chanel: 800.550.0005 or chanel.com. > Chopard: 800.CHOPARD or us.chopard.com. > Christian Dior: 212.249.5822 or dior.com. > Christian Louboutin: us.christianlouboutin.com. > Christofle: 846 Madison Ave. or christofle.com.

D > David Webb: 942 Madison Ave., 212.421.3030. > David Yurman: 877.908.1177 or davidyurman.com.

What’s a girl to do? When you find yourself tearing up your closet and still coming up short on something to wear, it’s time to hit the boutiques. To help you shop for the looks seen in our pages, we’ve compiled a list here of the vendors featured in this issue, along with some of our go-to favorites. In between shopping, be sure to keep up with Quest and Q online for the latest fashion news: visit questmag.com and follow us on Twitter and Instagram at @questmag.

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> Dennis Basso: 825 Madison Ave., 212.794.4500. > Diane von Furstenberg: dvf.com. > Diesel Black Gold: dieselblackgold.com. > diptyque: 971 Madison Ave., 212.879.3330.

> Acqua di Parma: acquadiparma.com/en.

> Dolce & Gabbana: 212.249.4100 or

> Akris: 835 Madison Ave. or akris.ch.

dolceandgabbana.com.

> Ascot Chang: 110 Central Park S. or ascotchang.com. > Assouline: assouline.com.

E > Elie Saab: eliesaab.com. > Elie Tahari: elietahari.com.

> Baccarat: 635 Madison Ave. or baccarat.com.

> Emilio Pucci: emiliopucci.com.

> Barneys New York: 888.222.7639 or barneys.com.

> Etienne Aigner: etienneaigner.com.

> Barton Perreira: At Bergdorf Goodman.

> Eton: 625 Madison Ave. or etonshirts.com/us/.

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> Louis Vuitton: 866.VUITTON or vuitton.com.

> Rolex: 800.36.ROLEX or rolex.com.

> Manolo Blahnik: 212.582.3007 or

> Sachin & Babi: 1200 Madison Ave., 212.966.5200, or

> GANT: 646.367.5416 or us.gant.com.

manoloblahnik.com.

sachinandbabi.com.

> Ghurka: ghurka.com.

> Marchesa: At Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue,

> Saint Laurent Paris: 212.832.7100 or ysl.com.

> Giorgio Armani: 877.361.1176 or armani.com.

and marchesa.com.

> Saks Fifth Avenue: 877.551.SAKS or

> Gucci: 877.482.2430 or gucci.com.

> Marco Bicego: marcobicego.com.

saksfifthavenue.com.

> Miansai: At Bergdorf Goodman or miansai.com.

> Salvatore Ferragamo: ferragamo.com.

> Michael Bastian: At Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys New

> Savoir Beds: savoirbeds.us.

> H. Stern: hstern.net.

York, 212.228.3400, or michaelbastiannyc.com.

> Scully & Scully: 504 Park Ave., 212.755.2590, or

> Harry Winston: harrywinston.com.

> Michael Kors: 800.908.1157 or michaelkors.com.

scullyandscully.com.

> Hermès: 800.441.4488 or hermes.com.

> Mikimoto: 800.223.4008 or

> Simon Miller: At Barneys New York or

> Hueb: 717 Madison Ave. or hueb.com.

mikimotoamerica.com.

simonmillerusa.com.

> Hunter Boot: us.hunterboots.com.

> Misha Nonoo: mishanonoo.com.

> Smythson: 212.265.4573 or smythson.com.

> Fabergé: 694 Madison Ave., 646.559.8848.

> Stella McCartney: stellamccartney.com.

> Innamorato: innamorato.com.

> Nancy Gonzalez: At Neiman Marcus or

> Ippolita: ippolita.com.

nancygonzalez.com.

> Irene Neuwirth: At Jeffrey New York,

> Neiman Marcus: 800.533.1312 or

212.206.1272.

neimanmarcus.com.

> Thom Browne: At Barneys New York or

> Ivanka Trump: ivankatrumpcollection.com.

> Nirav Modi: 727 Madison Ave. or

thombrowne.com.

us.niravmodi.com.

> Tiffany & Co.: 561.659.6090 or tiffany.com.

> Stuart Weitzman: 212.823.9560 or www.stuartweitzman.com.

> Tod’s: 650 Madison Ave. or tods.com.

> J.Crew: 800.562.0258 or jcrew.com.

> J.McLaughlin: 844.532.5625 or jmclaughlin.com.

> Oscar de la Renta: 888.782.6357 or

> Tommy Hilfiger: usa.tommy.com.

> Jimmy Choo: 877.955.2466 or jimmychoo.com.

oscardelarenta.com.

> Tory Burch: toryburch.com.

> John Varvatos: johnvarvatos.com.

P > Patek Philippe: patek.com.

> Tom Ford: 212.359.0300 or tomford.com.

> Turquese: turquese.com.

> Katie Ermilio: katieermilio.com.

> Paul Morelli: 895 Madison Ave. or paulmorelli.com.

> Kendall Conrad: kendallconraddesign.com.

> Prada: 724 Fifth Ave., 212.664.0010, or prada.com.

> Valentino: 212.772.6969 or valentino.com.

> Kotur: koturltd.com.

> Van Cleef & Arpels: vancleefarpels.com. > Verdura: 745 Fifth Ave. or verdura.com.

> Ralph Lauren: 888.475.7674 or ralphlauren.com.

> Vogue Eyewear: At LensCrafters or

> La Perla: laperla.com.

> Red Carter: redcartercollection.com.

LensCrafters.com.

> Lalique: 888.488.2580 or lalique.com.

> Reem Acra: 730 Fifth Ave., Suite 205, 212.319.1800.

> Lanvin: 646.439.0380 or lanvin.com.

> Roberto Coin: At Neiman Marcus or Roberto Coin,

> Linda Horn: 1327 Madison Ave., 212.772.1122 .

800.853.5958 and us.robertocoin.com.

> WANT Les Essentiels: wantlesessentiels.com.

> L.K. Bennett: 655 Madison Ave. or us.lkbennett.com.

> Roger Vivier: 212.861.5371 or rogervivier.com.

> Wempe: 212.397.9000 or wempe.com.

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Capricorn Dec. 22 to Jan. 19 The winter was, indeed, productive in terms of work—whatever your ambitions— and hours were spent in solitude. Be proud of what you accomplished, but start to focus outward (not inward) by re-integrating your friends into your day-to-day. > Blanton’s Single-Barrel Bourbon: $59.99

Cancer June 21 to July 22

Aquarius Jan. 20 to Feb. 18

Leo July 23 to Aug. 23

This year, the stars advise that you swap your summer retreat (like the Cape or the Hamptons) for an adventure. Travel can enrich, and you could use the eye-opener of an experience—with a buddy or, even, solo. Suggestion: Asia with a jaunt in Australia. > Assorted Dewar’s: $19.99–74.99

The season for flirtation is nigh, especially with your skin tanned and your hair long and your fans who been so patient. Slip into your sundress and swipe on some mascara and hit the town with your squad. Relationships are ready to bloom with the flowers of spring... > Louis XIII Miniature: $600

Pisces Feb. 19 to Mar. 20 Step away from social media. We repeat: Step away from social media. It has the power to turn you into a superficial freak, so pause and reevaluate. No more comparing your beach bod to Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner! > Moët & Chandon Imperial Gold Leaf Jeroboam: $1,0999.95

Virgo Aug. 24 to Sept. 22 You’re in the driver’s seat, so consider the bumps in the road you endured this past winter as learning curves on the highway of life. Now it’s full speed ahead to greener pastures. There’s little room for rationale in the new adventures—and blossoming romances—that are coming your way. > Martini & Rossi Prosecco Minis: $14.99

Aries Mar. 21 to Apr. 19 Do not prolong the breakup you’ve been thinking of since huddled over hot cocoa. Declare your own independence and enjoy the summer months, making sure to freely ogle those fresh faces, finally liberated from the shackles of clothes. > Tequila Casa Dragones Joven: $285

Libra Sept. 23 to Oct. 22 As you lay out this summer and soak up the sun, remember that even in the hardest of times, it’s not all bad. Relationship troubles? More time with the girls! Long hours at the office? At least it’s air-conditioned! If you need a reminder, look to your tan lines: the dark rests next to the light. > Caliche Rum: $21.99

Taurus Apr. 20 to May 20 You resolved to evolve your style and, dear Taurus, you have. People have been impressed by the new you, as your wardrobe becomes chicer and chicer. Continue the momentum and become a fashion icon. > Champagne Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2006: $198.99

Scorpio Oct. 23 to Nov. 21 Spring may be popping up around you, Scorpio, but now is not the time for new projects. Consider your past successes and build on them: introspection and dedication will make you more mysterious and sexy than ever! Focus, almost to the point of obsession, comes naturally to you. > Heering Cherry Liqueur: $30

Gemini May 21 to June 20

Sagittarius Nov. 22 to Dec. 21

Summer brings out your most social side— and you’ve worked hard to get to this point, reaching this new status through strategy. Remember: As charming as your ambition may be, it’s important to stay true to a deeper, more introspective mantra. > Krug Grande Cuvée: $180

Summer is looming large, which you don’t want to! Mind the size of the shadow you cast during these later sunsets. While it may be the season of clambakes, make sure the only thing you’re stuffing are quahogs. Eat well—your confidence will brim as wide as your cute new hat for the beach. > Wölffer No. 139 Dry White Cider: $16

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While summer is the time for blockbuster movies—aliens, explosions, superheroes—keep the theatrics where they belong (read: not at graduations and weddings). Tensions will rise with hemlines, so try to maintain your cool. The only fireworks on the Fourth of July should be in the sky. > Bombay Sapphire Gin: $30

We believe that no We believe no two children are alike. We believe that that no two two children children are alike. are alike.

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