Summer Q by QUEST Magazine

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E SUMMER ISSUE 2010 > $5.00

two women at the Eden Roc Hotel in Cannes, 1969. Photograph by slim aarons.

SUMMER CLASSICS

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D E L

A new slant on time L.U.C Tech Twist. The resolutely contemporary L.U.C Tech line with its blend of classic curves and avant-garde aesthetics offers tantalizing glimpses of the beating heart of time. Transparency, performance, design and mechanical revelations abound in this Tech Twist model with a multi-level dial partially revealing its sophisticated mechanism and featuring applied hour-markers, central hour and minute hands, along with an off-set date pointer and small seconds subdial at 7 o’clock. The fluted crown placed in an original 4 o’clock position sets the final touch of originality to this connoisseur’s model powered by the COSC-certified L.U.C 96T movement.

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Prime Soho: One-Fifth Acre on Mercer Street. 9,423 gross square feet, stretching two thirds the length of a football field from Mercer to Broadway, a full 200 feet. Widths from 35 to 70 feet. Brilliant light from the east, west and south. Twelve foot ceilings. Two units combined, can be sold separately. $10.25M. Web #1175049. S.Hanja 917-743-6786/C.Stimpson 917-991-9549

West Village Beauty. Built in 1850, this 25 foot wide Federal single-family townhouse has 5+BRs, 4.5 baths, guest apartment/office, 5 wood-burning fireplaces, renovated with highestend finishes, custom millwork & all new systems/HVAC. Landscaped garden & roofdeck with spa. $9.95M. Web #1177618. R.McCain 917-363-3272/K.Wallison 646-613-2658

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6/21/10 11:51:54 AM 7/3/10 10:19 PM

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

CONTENTS SUMMER 2010

F E A T U R E S

40 legendary lady After reading Hugo Vickers’s book, Loving Garbo, Liz Smith was inspired to look back on the life of cinema legend Greta Garbo—one of the few major celebrities Smith never met in her long gossip career. 50 natural beauties Photographer Harry Benson captures the stunning co-chairs of the American Museum of Natural History’s annual Museum Dance, all posing in dresses from Lilly Pulitzer, the evening’s sponsor.

58 q sport For the Summer issue, Georgina Schaeffer focuses on the die-hard sport of rowing. She interviews Q readers, who share their most cherished rowing memories from years past and present. 64 party like it’s 1968 Anisha Lakhani visits Lisa Perry’s technicolor Madison Avenue boutique and talks to the designer about motherhood, growing up in the suburbs, and why 1968 was the best year for fashion. 68 simply stacey Elizabeth Brown and photographer Ben Fink Shapiro spend an afternoon with alice + olivia designer Stacey Bendet at her very fashionable Tribeca home.

76 space style Georgina Schaeffer travels back to the future with the new book Pierre Cardin: 60 Years of Innovation, a comprehensive look at the legendary designer and marketer. 82 the SARTORIAL touch Daniel Cappello interviews Naples-born fashion designer Domenico Vacca on his new transition from the expertly-tailored menswear he’s known for to now also creating classically beautiful womenswear. 86 Dial “S” for style Nick Burd looks back on the unique cinematic fashion that emerged out of the collaboration between filmmaker Alfred Hitchcock and his legendary costume designer, Edith Head.

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C O V E R Two women paddling an inflatable lilo at the Eden Roc Hotel in Cannes, France, 1969. Photograph by Slim Aarons.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

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CONTENTS SUMMER 2010

D E P A R T M E N T S

21 Nostalgia Remembering our favorite bygone summers. 24 Jewelry Sparkle like a starlet with the season’s most breathtaking diamonds and gemstones. 28 trendS Straight off the runways, we spot the latest trends, from stable-inspired style to wild prints. 34 sunglasses Shield your eyes in style with new shades from Chanel, Ralph Lauren, Prada, and more.

35 shoes Step out in these swanky soles that will see you through a day in the sand to a party at sundown. 36 beachwear Have fun in the sun with the latest in swimwear and the hottest new beach gear. 38 men’s apparel Revisit the style of Cary Grant to create an effortless, yet put-together, summer look. 92 q focus From Cannes to L.A. and New York, Q takes you behind the scenes of the hottest parties.

100 health Dr. Eric Braverman, founder of New York’s PATH Medical Center, reveals the brain’s role in aging. 102 ask the experts Our panel of experts solve all your warm-weather beauty conundrums. 104 beauty The best in new fade-free makeup, revitalizing skincare, and fresh summer fragrances. 106 evening looks We turned to our favorite screen sirens of yesteryear for inspiration on the latest in glamorous eveningwear.

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110 shopping index Locate all the great loot from these pages. 112 staff selections Q staffers’ favorite summer hats.

b e yo n dâ&#x20AC;Ś

i n t r o d u c i n g t h e j . c r e w b r i da l b o u t i q u e 7 6 9 m a d i s o n av e n u e, n e w yo r k c i t y

n o w ta k i n g a p p o i n t m e n t s: k at e @ j c r e w. c o m

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

David Patrick Columbia

Elizabeth Meigher

editor-in-Chief

Editor

james stoffel Creative director

Georgina Schaeffer executive editor

rachel corbett senior editor

elizabeth brown a ssociate editor

Daniel Cappello fa shion editor

valeria fox A ssociate Art Director

hilary geary societ y Editor

oliver ames, Christina arza, REBECCA BROWN, Essie gavrilov interns

Joanna Baker co-founding editor

Quest Media, LLC. S. Christopher Meigher III Chairman and C.E.O.

kathleen sheridan a ssi stant to the c.e.o.

helen j. conlin accounting manager Board of Advisors

Brucie Boalt Edward Lee Cave Barbara CORCORAN JED H. GARFIELD CLARK HALSTEAD DORTHY HERMAN pamela liebman Elizabeth Stribling Roger W. Tuckerman peter turino William Lie Zeckendorf lisa rosenberg 917.576.8951 greenwich

Bina Gupta 852.2868.1555 Hong Kong

Contributing Editors

Barbara Bancroft AMANDA MEIGHER Liz smith Taki Theodoracopulos michael thomas Contributing photographers

lucien Capehart jeanne chisholm jack deutsch Chris Eastland Patrick McMullan LINDA LANE SOPER 612.308.4159 PA L M BEACH

Emilio Zerboni 011.39.031.267.797 Milan

ÂŠ QUEST MEDIA, LLC 2010. All rights reserved. Vol. 5, No. 3. Q-Quintessential Style is published quarterly, 4 times a year. Yearly subscription rate $24.00. Q, 420 Madison Avenue, Penthouse, 16th floor, New York, NY 10017. 646.840.3404 fax 646.840.3408. For address changes, please call: 646.840.3404. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Q-Quintessential Style, 420 Madison Avenue, Penthouse, 16th floor, New York, NY 10017. subscription Inquiries

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Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Two women paddle an inflatable lilo at the Eden Roc Hotel in Cannes, 1967.

ELIZABETH MEIGHER EDITOR

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Sli m Aa ro ns (C an n e s )

With the creation of every new issue of Q comes the careful cover selection process. As a magazine that prides itself on bringing readers the best in “timeless, classic fashion, accessories, and stories,” Q relies on iconic cover shots mostly from the 1960s and ’70s to reveal the renewed value and beauty these images hold in modern times. Slim Aarons was a beloved mentor and friend, as well as a contributing photographer for Quest and Q, before he passed away in 2006. Remembering how Slim loved to say that he built his career “photographing attractive people who were doing attractive things in attractive places,” I could Greta Garbo, left, bears a resemblance to my grandmother, Gigi, who also shares Garbo’s famous think of no better place to find a cover than in Slim’s longing: “I wish I was supernaturally strong so I could put right everything that is wrong.” archives. How I wish I could share all of the “endlesssummer,” Camelot-era splendor of the many photos I perused—from Newport to Edgartown and across the seas through Tuscany, Cap Ferrat, Sardinia, the Balearic Islands, St. Tropez … but since we can run just one, I went with this “cheeky” shot of two women in a pool in Cannes. Not only is it flirty and fun, but a great reason to bring back those sexy ’70s-style gold bikini chains! In keeping with Q’s tradition of cultivating the memories of exceptional ladies—past and present—Liz Smith writes on one of Hollywood’s most famous leading ladies, Greta Garbo. As beautiful as she was, it was Garbo’s refreshing candor and wit that set her apart from other actresses of the 1930s. Garbo once said, “Anyone who has a continuous smile on his face conceals a toughness that is almost frightening.” She’s absolutely right and offers an interesting point about human nature, one that is particularly fitting for this Summer edition of Q, as this issue features stories on two especially “smiley” ladies—fashion designers Stacey Bendet and Lisa Perry. Although neither are by any means “frightening,” both are exceptionally talented and tough enough to have succeeded in the dog-eat-dog world of fashion.  Lizzie Brown spent a day at the Tribeca loft of comely young designer Stacey Bendet, of the alice + olivia label. Bendet’s frocks give a nod and a wink to the ’60s, with a little disco thrown in. My favorite dress in my closet, a silver sequined shift, happens to be an alice + olivia from two years ago, and I have yet to find one I like as much! Q contributor Anisha Lakhani writes on sunny, bright-eyed Lisa Perry, who infuses her vivacious spirit into her each of her mod-ish dresses. Perry’s bright, color-blocked patterns and crisp silhouettes are beloved by women of all ages, shapes, and sizes. And shopping in Perry’s Madison Avenue store is almost as fun as wearing her dresses, for her boutique is filled with oversized Warhol-esque Campbell’s soup cans, frisky shots of Twiggy and the Beatles, furniture from Demisch Danant ... you’ll want to move in!  This issue’s fashion shoot is one of our most exciting to date. Not only were we given the rare opportunity to shoot the co-chairs of the American Museum of Natural History’s annual dinner dance, but we had the one-and-only Harry Benson behind the lens! Harry’s ample wit and charm was enough to keep eight fetching co-chairs, his whole camera crew, and Q’s staff enthralled for a full three-hour photo shoot. I’m ending this issue’s letter with another Garbo maxim: “I wish I were supernaturally strong so I could put right everything that is wrong.” Garbo will always be in my heart as she reminds me so much of my dear grandmother, Gigi, from whom I was passed the name Elizabeth. Not only does Gigi bear an uncanny resemblance to Garbo, she has also always possessed a longing to “put right everything that is wrong.” It is one of my favorite qualities about her, and I dedicate this issue to Gigi. I am blessed to have her as my grandmother. u

Priscill a Heine THE

SELECTED WORK S FR OM G U I L D H A L L M U S E U M C O L L E C T I O N , 2 0 09

WA L LY F I N D L AY G A L L E R I E S I N T E R N AT I O N A L , I N C.

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PA L M B E A C H

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ART WALLY FINDLAY

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CONTRIBUTORS

Dave Lieberman > Dave is a New York chef and photographer who divides his time between the two. He is a host on the Food Network and contributes to several magazines, including Saveur, Gotham, and Food & Wine. For this issue, Dave photographed fashion designer Lisa Perry. Dave enjoyed spending the day of the shoot with Perry at her home and in her boutique. “It’s obvious that Lisa is most in her element at her store,” he says. “Just being there makes her happy, and I think that comes through in her portraits.”

Elizabeth Brown > Elizabeth is the associate editor of Quest magazine, where she also writes “The Young and the Guest List.” Before Quest, she was employed at Dutko Worldwide, a lobbying firm in Washington, D.C. Elizabeth has also worked at alice + olivia and, for this issue, she reconnected with the brand’s designer, Stacey Bendet. She is a recent graduate of Trinity College and has lived in New York City, London, and Greenwich. Elizabeth currently resides on the Upper East Side with her dog, Wembley.

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40 < Harry Benson Award-winning Scottish photojournalist Harry Benson came to America with the Beatles and never looked back. Harry has photographed eleven United States presidents, marched with Martin Luther King, Jr. during the civil rights movement, and has photographed people as diverse as Sir Winston Churchill and Brad Pitt. In 2009, Queen Elizabeth II presented Harry with a CBE, or “Commander of the British Empire,” for his service to photography.

< Ben Fink Shapiro Originally from Cincinnati, photographer Ben Fink Shapiro graduated from Vassar College and began shooting for clients in New York City during his four years at school. Shortly after graduation, Ben assisted British fashion photographer Miles Aldridge. Ben’s advertising clients include Brunello Cucinelli, Metalskin, Miguelina, Tibi, Terramar Sports, and Dallin Chase. Recently, he entered the film world, having directed a commercial for RD Style. Ben lives in the Lower East Side.

68 < Nick Burd For this issue, Nick, an author living in Brooklyn, wrote “Dial ‘S’ For Style.” He traces his love of Alfred Hitchcock (and his leading ladies) to his childhood: “My mom was always watching Hitchcock movies when I was a kid, and they left quite an impression on me. Like the rest of the world, I found the glamour and the mystery that permeates his films irresistible. They’ve taught me as much about storytelling as any book I’ve read.” Nick’s novel, The Vast Fields of Ordinary, is available from Dial Books/Penguin.

Er i c Lu c (N i c k Bu rd)

Liz Smith > Sixty years ago, Liz brought her Texan wit, verve, and nerve to New York. Liz’s latest passion, WOWOWOW.com, offers sophisticated daily content for women over forty. In her early career, she held a variety of jobs: proofreader at Newsweek, editor for Modern Screen, typist for Blue Cross. She later became entertainment editor for Cosmopolitan and a contract writer for Sports Illustrated. In 1976, she launched a column for the Daily News known simply as “Page 6.” She is the author of several books, including Natural Blonde and Dishing.

Save the Date SEVENTH ANNUAL

Wednesday September 29, 2010 6:00 p.m. until 9:00 p.m. 73rd Street (Between Lexington and Third Avenues) Proceeds will support the NYC Family Justice Center Initiative and youth programs in public housing. To purchase tickets, please visit www.nyc.gov/fund or call 212-788-7794.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

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N O S TA L G I A

S U M M E R AC T I V ITIES British students enjoy a free Rolling Stones

concert in Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hyde Park, 1969.

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This page: 1. Casey Stengel wearing sunglasses while playing outfield for the Brooklyn Dodgers in 1915; 2. Jayne Mansfield and Mike Hargitay at Via Veneto in Italy; 3. Jacqueline Bouvier and Lee Bouvier on the beach together as children in 1935; 4. A photograph by Robert Frank entitled â&#x20AC;&#x153;Rodeo, NYC,â&#x20AC;? from 1955; 5. Billy Clark, the onetime town crier, on the island of Nantucket. > Opposite page: 1. Partygoers enjoy a formal affair in the 1950s; 2. Audrey Hepburn and her son, Sean, on location in St. Tropez while filming Two for the Road, which was released in 1967; 3. A starlet gets carried into the swimming pool at the 1960 Cannes Film Festival; 4. A view of the boats in Portofino, Italy; 5. Isabella Rossellini smokes a cigarette while wearing a design by Emilio Pucci.

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3 2 Lauren Bacall, like all great leading ladies, knows a thing or two about great jewelry. Fellow silver-screen star Elizabeth Taylor has her own line, the Elizabeth Taylor Collection, in conjunction with Piranesi. And then there’s the Jacqueline Kennedy Collection, inspired by the former first lady’s iconic jewelry pieces, by Camrose & Krossavid (though Jackie never dabbled in it herself). First lady of the screen and stage, Bacall has followed suit and is currently producing a jewelry line with the company Weinman Brothers. Whether you’re a Lauren, an Elizabeth, or a Jackie, get your jewelry on!

5 1. GUCCI The Bamboo collection spring bracelet, in 18-kt. pink, yellow, and white gold, small or large; $2495-$18,250. 2. David yurman Oval mosaic cuff with multi-colored moonstones, quartz, and green tourmaline; $12,000. 3. ruby kobo Diamond horn necklace; $2,550. 4. van cleef & arpels “Perlée” rings shown here from $1,400-$11,500. 5. hermès Enamel bracelets, which range from $445 to $640. 6. tiffany & co. The Monarch Necklace in platinum and 18-kt. gold with diamonds and yellow sapphires, by Jean Schlumberger; $155,000. 7. bulgari Anish Kapoor B.zero1 ring by BULGARI in pink gold and stainless steel; $940.

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;1920â&#x20AC;? Art Deco. Colored Gemstones in 18k white gold with diamonds. Necklace $ 8,285 Ring $ 6,145

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Natalie Wood had a crush on actor Robert Wagner, who was almost ten years her senior, since she acted in Miracle on 34th Street in 1947 as a young girl. Finally, on the occasion of her eighteenth birthday, Wood was escorted to dinner by Wagner. And, within a year, the two married. Allow a handsome (and maybe older) man to treat you like a princess with hand-poured celluloise earrings from Nicole Romano or a flowery ring from Chanel. Or, try on a chunky lucite necklace from Michael Kors, sparkly pieces from J. Crew and Lulu Frost, or an Emily Elizabeth headband.

1. michael kors Lucite beaded necklace; $695. 2. nicole romano The Imperial earrings are made with hand-poured Italian marbleized celluloise for the drop bar, with antique pinwheel clips; $2,25o. 3. emily elizabeth The Rapunzel headband with brass frame, gold faux leather braiding, and beige suede on underside (14-kt. gold-plated end caps); $45. 4. chanel The CHANEL ring in metal and enamel; $1,045. 5. j. crew The crystal patch necklace, which measures 55 inches, is a keeper; $128. 6. todâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Matte and shiny: Todâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leather Wrap Bracelets come in cool shades of lavender and tan; $1,095. 7. lulu frost Gold-and-silver collage bracelet; $360.

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Easy Breezy Vivien Leigh married Laurence Olivier in Santa Barbara in the summer of 1940, with Katharine Hepburn and Garson Kanin serving as the ceremony’s only witnesses. But you don’t need to be getting married this summer to delight in white—and these effortless dresses prove it. True to a big summer trend, many of them (take Lilly Pulitzer’s vintage-inspired strapless mini or Haute Hippie’s airy cotton gown, for example) feature eyelet and lace details, which you’ll also find on everything from rompers to linen coats. Here are dresses that any beachy bride will love. Or any other woman, for that matter.

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1. prada The transparent chandelier overlay dress ($20,160) with white stretch briefs ($270) and sleeveless top ($450). 2. LILLY PULITZER The Bowen dress in a classic white vintage floral lace; $328. 3. shoshanna Criss-cross white tank dress; $230. 4. j. crew This vintage lace gown ($3,000) is sported up with a resin-coated twill utility jacket ($148) and the men’s distressed leather roller buckle best ($52). 5. anne fontaine Shelby pima cotton jersey top with English embroidery; $250. 6. haute hippie Cotton voile tank dress in white; $450. 7. minnie mortimer Candice romper in cotton check with red ricrac and white eyelet details; $138. 8. elie tahari The ultimate in airy: the Portia coat in 100% white linen; $498.

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139 N County Rd suite 16 Palm Beach, Fl 33480 • 561-833-7505 • www.westwardmason.com

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TREND

Blue Wave Romy Schneider launched her career in 1953, starring in the German film Wenn der weiĂ&#x;e Flieder wieder blĂźht, or When the White Lilacs Bloom Again. Whether wearing lilac or any shade of blue, the Austrian actress always looked cool. These summer months, add a cool splash of color to your wardrobe with a turquoise jumper from Tibi or a navy cocktail dress from Alberta Feretti. Or look forward to fall, where blue will carry through.

1. luca luca Virginia wool blue flannel with pleated gauze detail; $1,950. 2. J. Mendel The Prussian blue mousseline cocktail dress with draped bodice and silk organza ruffle skirt detail; $2,980. 3. rebecca taylor Smokey teal perfect shift dress; $335. 4. Celine Touareg silk-and-wool blend dress ($3,400), shown here with the chunky open-toe mule ($1,100). 5. salvatore ferragamo Mixed-wool button-down top ($830), mixed-wool shorts ($760), leather-and-suede belt ($510), and leatherand-suede lace-up Oxfords ($690). 6. alberta feretti Stretch-wool Passementri dress with black contrast; $1,795. 7. carolina herrera Steel blue striped mohair-embroidered dress; price upon request. 8. tibi Silk-stud beading sleeveless dress in dark neptune; $655. 9. ralph lauren Velvet Sandra jacket in dusty amethyst; $2,198.

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Reining It In Grace Kelly, the serene Princess of Monaco and Academy Award-winning style icon, helped Hermès make a comeback with her sac à dépêche bag in 1956. Of course, she’s always been known for the pearls, the hair, and the shoes, but don’t forget her understated equestrian style. Channel her timeless look with a reliable Hermès riding belt, or modernize it with a pair of sleek new Hunter boots that will be launching this fall. If you want, try capturing your inner Charlotte Casiraghi with Veronica Beard’s take on the classic riding jacket—the “Claiborne,” which goes great with liquid leggings.

6 1. gucci Camel ostrich-seam detail jacket ($13,700), khaki soft-satin stretch velvet GG detail pant ($950), and silk and modal scarf ($995). 2. salvatore ferragamo Camel cable-knit sweater ($1,290), suede shorts ($1,950), wool cape ($3,500), and black leather boots ($1,250). 3. hermès Saddling up is chic with the Alma belt,

in leather; $2,225. 4. Domenico vacca The center-cut belly alligator and calf skin leather gloves are lined with cashmere and come with buckle in stainless steel and Swarovski crystal; $1,850. 5. veronica beard The Claiborne jacket transforms country threads for city-chic; $805. 6. delman “Rania” boot with back laces; $575. 7. hunter boot The Champery book in milk chocolate, out in August; $175.

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1. Cynthia Rowley Monster Collage dress; $375. 2. J. Crew Carmichael plaid popover ($69.50), Slub shirting utility jacket ($118), and Klee check nan mini ($248). 3. TIBI Madeline silk-and-wool strapless dress in Haze Multi; $358. 4. ETRO Paisley silk printed dress; $3,745. 5. MILLY Ava bow dress in multi; $475. 6. J. Mendel Black dyed textured-wool coat with belted back and silver fox mounted shawl collar ($5,300) and Hematite sculptural metallic draped dress with wrap belt ($2,150). 7. RALPH LAUREN Poppy Deco Therese dress in silk chiffon ($2,598), shown with Bordeaux cashmere crewneck cardigan ($1,098). 8. zac posen for target The superstoreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first piece of eveningwear is the Safety Pin print gown in pink; $69.99.

Fit To Print Diane von Furstenberg launched her career in 1972 with a simple wrap dress. Today, with a global empire that spans everything from swimwear to ready-to-wear, von Furstenberg is still known the world over for her iconic wrap dress, which famously comes in bold, sexy patterns. As von Furstenberg knows, prints are big. This season, check out the trend in unconventional prints from the likes of Zac Posen for Target, Tibi, and Etro. Or, find a more subdued approach from design favorites J. Mendel and Ralph Lauren.

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110 East 55th Street

N e w Yo r k , N e w Yo r k 1 0 0 2 2

Te l e p h o n e : ( 2 1 2 ) 7 5 5 - 7 3 7 2

Fax: (212) 755-7627

www.belgianshoes.com

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SUNGLASSES

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Sunny Daze Françoise Hardy became popular overnight after the release of her début album in 1962, which included the single “Oh Oh Chéri.” The singer relied on sunglasses to shield her from her newfound fame, and, being French, managed to look killer while doing so. Had some of these vintage-inspired pairs been available then (especially those from Versace), surely she would have rocked them. No matter, you can rock your own, in any shape or color.

1. salvatore ferragamo Keep it cool and light with these hip pink plastic sunglasses; $255. 2. Tom Ford Tom Ford’s Nikita sunglasses come in tortoiseshell with a throwback flair from the ’50s; $360. 3. chanel Chanel pays homage to tweed with the distinctive weave of these refined woollens, which also feature exclusive cellulose plates and the house’s two-tone signature; $270. 4. prada Invoke your inner ’60s diva with these classic outsize shades; $245. 5. dolce & gabBana A feminine and round silhouette, in striking marbled purple; $260. 6. ralph lauren Shake things up with these two-toned square frames in antique tortoise and red; $210. 7. miu miu Curved oval lenses stress the natural colors of these acetate frames; $195. 8. versace A vintage mood defines these cool retro frames with a futuristic slant; $200.

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S T Y L E SHOES

Walk This Way

Audrey Hepburn is remembered for her style imprint across the board, but especially for popularizing ballet flats. The shoes became synonymous with the actress in 1957, when she wore them, starring alongside Fred Astaire, in Funny Face. Any shoe capable of diverting attention from Astaire’s famed feet is worthy of recognition. You can channel Hepburn’s easy style in flat looks here from Roger Vivier or Tod’s. Or command your own following in wooden platforms from Michael Kors or Miu Miu. One word of caution: if you’re going to dance à la Astaire, avoid wedges.

1. Christian Louboutin Reason to go bananas: the Banana Hardwick shoe, in natural; $995. 2. Miu miu White leather and beige satin wooden platform sandals; $495. 3. michael kors Amber sandal in teak leather, from MICHAEL Michael Kors; $135. 4. jimmy choo Sticking with suede and studs: the Mendez heel, shown here in yellow; $995. 5. manolo blahnik Amacha is a form of tea favored among Asian cultures, using the dried leaves of hydrangea. Manolo Blahnik’s “Amacha” shoe, meanwhile, has healing powers all its own; $815. 6. tory burch Tory Burch’s Cuba sandal in gold petal is crafted in metallic leather; $350. 7. tod’s Slim, classic, and chic: the Tod’s driving shoe, shown here in purple python; $765. 8. roger vivier The Tee Mini is a sleek white leather sandal with buckle detail; $475.

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ACCESSORIES MEN’S

Time For Sun Steve McQueen, the “King of Cool,” inspired a generation with his devil-may-care attitude and flair. The ’50s bad boy turned ’60s film star left the world breathless with his Harrington jackets and signature Persol 714s. Emulate his easy Thomas Crown Affair style on the beach this summer with a pair of timeless Persols of your own, a military-inspired TAG, or simple Theory trunks. If speed and danger aren’t your suit, take the more playful route with floral trunks from Ralph Lauren or Etro.

1. J. CREW Just as appropriate for wearing with a summertime suit in the city, the seagrass trilby hat with a navy band keeps your head covered and

cool for the beach; $40. 2. versace Square in shape, hip in style; $190. 3. Burberry Keep your look sporty with these blue frames; $200. 4. persol Persols are perrenial classics; $360. 5. theory “Bibby” polyester swim trunks in dark green ($125), pictured here with the New Irish linen “Lani” sweater in desert ($195). 6. etro Stand out this summer wearing these multi-print swim trunks; $240. 7. tag heuer TAG Heuer’s sporty Formula 1 watch in khaki-colored dial and rubber strap with steel case; $900. 8. Ralph Lauren Hawaiian seven-inch floral trunk by Polo Ralph Lauren; $65.

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ACCESSORIES WOMEN’S

1. j. crew The quick-drying solid wrap-front tank with mid-back for full coverage; $80. 2. shoshanna The Made with Love Charlotte Ronson two-piece; $82 (top), $84 (bottom). 3. eres Gamma top ($190) and Jane bottom ($120) in rouge tomate. 4. zac posen for target Pleated sleeve top in Vesper Lilac Polka Dot print ($29.99) and Low-V one-piece in tie dye ($34.99). 5. hermÈs The “Hippocame” beach towel by Hermès puts a new spin on terry cloth; $530. 6. minnie mortimer Visit minniemortimer.com for irresistible finds, including the Stevie ruffle bikini; $98. 7. lilly pulitzer The spaghettistrap McKim sandal, shown in patent Daiquiri, runs sizes 6-10; $88.

Beach Best

Rita Hayworth was adored by men and women alike during World War II, when the actress was a popular pin-up. In fact, in 1946, her likeness was attached to the first nuclear bomb to be tested in the Marshall Islands. Can you say, Bombshell? This summer, whether hitting the beaches of the Northeast, California, or Europe, why not dare to capture some of Hayworth’s je ne sais quoi with the classic but au courant two-pieces pictured here? Or, be a little more brazen in a sexy style from Eres. When comfort calls, nothing’s better than a classic Hermès towel for the beach, or a pair of patent Tory Burch sandals for the hot sand. SUMMER 2010/

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A P PA R E L M E N ’ S

Men’s Must Haves Cary Grant, the Bristol-born boy once known as Archie Leach, now ubiquitously known for his roguish smile, British charm, and impeccable taste, was admired for his style more than any other Hollywood actor of his era. Reinvent yourself like Grant did with a Gant blazer paired with Tom Ford Bachardy shades and a pair of Tod’s loafers. Or, if you’re feeling more like Fred Astaire this summer, be bold and combine Simon Spurr’s salmon pants and blue shirt with a pair of Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label sunglasses.

1. cartier These Cartier horseshoe-décor cufflinks come in Palladium-finish sterling silver with horn detail; $660. 2. car shoe A sleek leather sneaker in mustard; carshoe.com. 3. tod’s Driving shoe in leather with stripe detail; $495. 4. sebago Nouveau prep: the 1946 Limited Edition Sebago; $110. 5. simon spurr Blue shirt ($375) and salmon pants ($325). 6. theory “Haden” pima cotton classic T-shirts in pale sunlight and bitter orange (shown in layers; $75 each), “Fulton” pale khaki cotton blazer ($295), and “Conti S” pale Khaki cotton shorts ($165). 7. gant Hopsack blazer ($495), T-shirt ($59), jeans ($198). 8. ralph lauren The Classic Sunglasses by Ralph Lauren Purple Label; $350. 9. tom ford Bachardy shades are the ultimate in summer cool; $360.

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the Quest 400 Issue

coming in august Call Kathy Sheridan at 646.840.3404 x100

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This page: The Divine Woman (1928) was based on the life of actress Sarah Bernhardt, as portrayed by Garbo. The film has since vanished. > Opposite: Clarence Sinclair Bull photographed the Stockholm-born actress in 1941 to promote the film Two-Faced Woman.

Legendary Lady: Greta Garbo by

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Liz Smith

If you’re like me, you sometimes roam your living quarters picking up and putting down books that have accumulated in piles, all of which you intend to read—someday. What happened to me recently was that, when I picked up Loving Garbo, by Hugo Vickers, I didn’t even notice at first that it had been published back in 2000 and had been waiting for me ever since. The subtitle of this book is “The Story of Greta Garbo, Cecil Beaton and Mercedes de Acosta.” I knew perfectly well that the mythic Garbo had been rumored to be a long “off-and-on” lover of the somewhat effete Cecil Beaton, the English designer who won three Oscars in his time and helped make My Fair Lady a hit. I knew she had also been an “off-and-on” early love of the lesbian

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screenwriter Mercedes de Acosta. I felt there was nothing new for me in this tome and that’s why I had avoided it for so long. But when I began reading, I couldn’t stop. They were all here— the extravagant lovers and admirers of Garbo, who seemed to have treated them—in her post-Hollywood years—with elaborate disregard, while claiming their attentions inevitably. What I liked best about this book, however, were the names of all the principal players who flocked around or encountered Garbo in Hollywood, Garbo in New York, and Garbo in Europe. Because I was writing for the social “Cholly Knickerbocker” column back at the time Garbo was so omnipresent in New York, I was simply stunned at how many of the  “players” mentioned in this book I had known myself. (Garbo was finished with movies in the ’50s.)  Some of the players were people I was merely introduced to once, others I came to know well—but I started counting them up. In spite of my lowly ink-stained job and social status from the ’50s to the ’70s, I discovered sixty-five “big names” in this Garbo work whom I had either met or come to know. Back in the ’50s, on the verge of becoming a newspaper columnist, my pals and I, our noses ever pressed to the glass of good restaurants, clubs, and theaters, did something slightly silly. We “collected” celebrities. We kept a tally and, each week, the person having seen the most won a free drink. It was an honor system and Garbo was so important that she rated five points. It became

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This page, clockwise from top: Clarence Sinclair Bull photographed Garbo for Anna Christie (1930); Garbo’s headshot by Milton Brown for Mata Hari (1931); Garbo’s apartment building at 450 E. 52nd Street. > Opposite: Clockwise, from top left: A Woman of Affairs (1928) was directed by Clarence Brown; Garbo played a Parisian opera singer in Torrent (1926); Grand Hôtel (1932) won an Oscar for Best Picture.

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Left: Garbo acted opposite John Gilbert in A Woman of Affairs (1928). > Inset: A year later, Garbo posed for this magazine shoot. > Opposite: Garbo had her portrait taken by Olof Ekstrand in 1923. Insets: Vivien Leigh and Rex Harrison were considered to be among Manhattan’s major players during the era Greta Garbo lived in the city.

a joke, really, because I noticed that Garbo was the celebrity you were most likely to see if you haunted wine, antique, and health-food stores on the Upper East Side. She was forever out walking, avoiding everyone. I was interested to read about 450 E. 52nd Street, an important building where Garbo resided on one floor and where her admirer, George Schlee, with his designer wife, Valentina, resided on another. As Alexander Wolcott had also once lived on this dead-end street overlooking the East River, it was dubbed by insiders “Wit’s End.” Schlee was a villain to Cecil Beaton and to many others who adored Garbo and thought he monopolized and controlled her. It turns out that he must have because his apartment and Garbo’s were decorated in the same manner and nothing changed for years. (It was said that when Schlee died in 1964, his wife, who was famous in her own right, had their apartment practically

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exorcized to rid itself of the Garbo aura. She never spoke to Garbo again and they avoided using the elevators at the same time.) But for years, the Schlees and Garbo had had some kind of threesome going on. Nobody knew exactly what it meant. And the funny thing is, I knew George Schlee. He often took me to lunch to pick my brain as to how my bosses, the Cassini brothers, were doing. He was forever flirting with me, promising to introduce me to Garbo, but I had no expectations and he never did. I once ran into Valentina in Venice at the Cipriani Hotel, where she reigned in her declining years. We had a splendid chat about her husband, for I had always admired her fame and her famous mottos: “Simplicity survives ... Women of chic are wearing now dresses they bought from me in 1936. Fit the century. Forget the year!” And, of course, her famous witticism: “Mink is for football. Ermine is for bathrobes. Children are for the suburbs.” I also met Mercedes de Acosta after she wrote her tell-all memoir, Here Lies the Heart.  Garbo broke her heart by banishing their long friendship. But Mercedes’s book was praised by many who thought she had caught Garbo’s true essence. Alice B. Toklas wrote: “Your story of Garbo is a classic—at the end you have made her one of the heroines of all time—just as you have left Marlene Dietrich a warm, but ordinary woman.” (Someone once said that Garbo didn’t care what Mercedes wrote about their original romance; she simply felt Mercedes was bad luck.) I  met other players of these times and pages, people like Vivien Leigh, Rex Harrison, and Tammy Grimes through cocktails at the agent Gloria Safier’s apartment. And I was once in Miss Safier’s beach house where Miss Leigh, delicate and ladylike, snored like a drunken sailor in the bedroom. I came to live on friendly terms with others mentioned in this book—Bette Davis, Kate Hepburn, Carol Channing, Joan Crawford, William S. Paley, Tennessee Williams, Truman Capote, David O. Selznick, Jennifer Jones, Irene Selznick, Garson Kanin, Diana Vreeland, George Cukor,

This page, clockwise from top left: Though she never married, Garbo enjoyed a romantic relationship with Cecil Beaton; in The Mysterious Lady (1928), Garbo played a Russian spy opposite Conrad Nagel; Throughout her career, Garbo was nominated for four Oscars; Garbo was the lead in The Temptress (1926). > Opposite, clockwise from top left: In Mata Hari (1931), Garbo played a German spy; Garbo walks down Via Veneto in Rome; Garbo acted opposite Herbert Marshall in The Painted Veil (1934); A Woman of Affairs (1928) told the story of a love triangle.

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Josh Logan, Art Buchwald, Coral Browne, Kenneth Tynan, Dorothy Parker, Janet Flanner, Gloria Vanderbilt, Andy Warhol, Oliver Messel, Joe Carstairs, Eleanor Lambert, Lillian Gish, Louella Parsons,  Adele Astaire, Alice Astor, Serge Obolensky, Sydney Guilaroff, Jerome Zerbe, John Richardson, Sam Green, Alex Liberman, Mary Astor, Jimmy Donahue, Bill Blass and Ned Rorem … Once, in Athens, I saw Garbo and her then “keeper”—the Baroness Cecile de Rothschild—enter a hotel bar. Vicker’s book tells quite a lot about how the Baroness waited on and was abused by Garbo in the ’70s and how Cecile revelled in her masochism.  (The Baroness was just one of many.) But, I never was introduced to Greta Garbo. I’m glad, I would have hated falling under her spell and living to be mistreated by cinema’s foremost legend. u

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This page: Garboâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s promotional photograph for As You Desire Me (1932). > Opposite, from top: Conquest (1937) was directed by William Grimes; Garbo played opposite Melvyn Douglas in Ninotchka (1940), one of her final films.

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Natural Beauties

Elizabeth Meigher

with

Daniel Cappello

p h o t o g r a p h ed b y

Harry Benson

Since its opening in 1936, the Akeley Hall of African Mammals at the American Museum of Natural History has been considered one of the world’s greatest museum displays. Conceived by Carl Akeley, the hall comprises twenty-eight dioramas that depict many of the animals and habitats of Africa, from the bongo and mandrill of the dense rainforests to the impala and elephant of the savannah. Earlier this spring, the Annual Museum Dance was sponsored by Lilly Pulitzer and took the form of a “Spring Safari.” In these pages, some of New York’s favorite young charitable women—all of whom led and co-chaired the evening—have been captured (in Lilly Pulitzer, naturally) before some of the thrilling African landscapes of Akeley Hall. > This page: Tinsley Mortimer in Lilly Pulitzer’s Bowen Dress in Floral Lace ($328) and jewelry by Kenneth Jay Lane. > Opposite: Nina Patterson in Lilly Pulitzer’s Kaya Dress in the Cameo White La Vie En Rose print ($298) with the Tessen clutch from Judith Leiber ($3,495).

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This page: Blair Husain in Lilly Pulitzer’s Kaya Dress in the Hotty Pink She’s a Piston print ($398) with a vintage clutch from Judith Leiber. > Opposite: Zibby Right in Lilly Pulitzer’s Linda Marie Dress in the Keen Peach She’s a Piston print ($348).

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This page: Dana Wallach in Lilly Pulitzerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Adelson Maxi dress in the Daiquiri Pink Ten Ton Bouquet print ($298) with the Enchanted clutch in large crystal from Judith Leiber ($2,995). > Opposite: Elizabeth Grimaldi in vintage Lilly Pulitzer with Judith Leiberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Slender Curve in champagne Austrian crystal ($2,395).

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Left to right: Nina Patterson, Tinsley Mortimer, Dana Wallach, Blair Husain, Elizabeth Grimaldi, and Zibby Right in front of the elephants of the African savannah.

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Power Ten by

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Georgina Schaeffer

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Someone once told me that, in business, you should “always hire the rower.” For many reasons, I suppose, but rowing is the only sport I know of that asks you to give 110%—on command. They call it a power ten, and when your coxswain calls for one, a rower must come up with a little bit more, in mind and body, to push that extra inch. Most rowers will also tell you that rowing isn’t just a sport. And they’re right—it’s closer to a religion. The grueling, cult-like practices occur at dawn and dusk, during frigid and broiling temperatures—not to mention the rain. Not much will stop them, so we salute rowers past and present.

L i bra r y o f co n gre s s

Thomas Strenge Occupation > Entrepreneur When did you begin rowing? > My junior year of high school. What’s your first rowing memory? > My buddy Clark on the swim team invited me to come out. I was tall and lanky. I went out on a barge with a bunch of other novices trying to learn the basic motion. It felt awkward and uncoordinated. Where’s your favorite place to row? > St. John’s River in Jacksonville Equipment you can’t live without > A pull-up bar What’s your fondest rowing memory? > The early morning rows with the mist hanging over the water, purple hues still in the sky, and no sound in the world beside the rythmic melody of the oars and the water singing under the hull.

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Above, from left: Rowing coach JIm Rice of Columbia with a mega-phone;

Garda Rowing Club coxswain Bernard Bryne, prepared with foul-weather gear, 1962. > Opposite: The Cambridge Crew rowing team, circa 1910.

Kathleen Holzem

Occupation > Underwriter When did you begin rowing? Fall of 2001. It was my freshman year of college, a few days after I was cut from the golf team. When did you begin rowing? > The first day I went down to the boathouse, my coach told me that the men’s varsity team needed an extra coxswain. I jumped into a shell within minutes. It was frightening and thrilling all at once, and I was hooked. What’s your first rowing memory? > Everyone has a war-story—from colliding with boats under a bridge and starting an on-water fistfight, to steering their shell onto a dock, to almost T-boning a national team boat under a pivotal bridge in the race. Head of the Charles is rowing’s de facto homecoming, an annual pilgrimage for rowers past and present. Equipment you can’t live without > As a coxswain, you always end up packing foul-weather gear and one can never have too many 7/16th wrenches (for rigging boats). What’s your fondest rowing memory? > Winning the Riley Cup at the 106th NWIRA Regatta in August 2009. My boat had

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L ib ra r y o f c o n g re s s

Most rowers will tell you that rowing is not just a sport. And they’re right—it’s closer to a religion. The grueling, cult-like practices occur at dawn and dusk, in frigid or broiling temperatures—not to mention the rain.

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Above: “Henley Regatta, Henley-on-Thames, U.K.,” (1890-1900). The Henley Royal Regatta is a rowing event held every year on the River Thames by

the town of Henley-on-Thames. The first Henley Regatta was inaugurated in 1839. > Left: The rowing squad at Columbia, training on ergometers.

former athletes from three national teams, an Olympic medalist, my college coach, and two current varsity rowers. We raced against some of the guys who took home the bronze in the men’s eight at the Beijing Olympics. It was a “knife fight” for nearly two thirds of the race—we were within four or five feet of each other, no one able to break the other. It was fun to win such a close race, with and against such remarkable rowers.

Amanda Meigher

Occupation: > Editorial Business Manager, Vanity Fair When did you begin rowing > My first year at St. Paul’s School, in 1996. What’s your first rowing memory? > Out on Occum Pond for my first in-water practice, watching the icicles drop off my oars and wondering what in God’s name I had signed up for. Favorite place to row> Occum Pond. Equipment you can’t live without > If I never have to get on another erg in this lifetime, it will be too soon. What’s your fondest rowing memory? > Our last practice race before Quinsigamond Regatta. Coach Davis had just given us a pep talk on courage. The pond was quiet, the wind was SUMMER 2010/

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still. Scrunched up in starting position, our knees close to our chests, oars gripped, someone screamed. One of the girls in the middle leap-frogged over another girl. The girl behind her slammed back into another girl. Screams pierced the air, oars flapped widly, both shells nearly capsized. Davis’s voice boomed out, “What the hell is going on?” We froze. Our cox had one leg over the side and most of us had crowded to the end of the shell, cowering and wining. A brave soul slid forward and slowly picked up and released over the side, a tiny, rather startled minnow who had briefly jumped into the shorts of one of the girls.

Wellington W. Scully Occupation > Business Development for a start-up technology company in San Francisco. When did you begin rowing? > I was 14 years old, at a camp in Craftsbury Common, Vermont. What’s your first rowing memory? > Climbing into a single scull after falling, multiple times, into Lake Hosmer, while I was learning to scull.

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Above: Rowers at the Schuylkill River in Philadelphia lift their boat over their heads to carry it. > Opposite: A women’s master eight rowing home. Inset, from top: Sculler Pertti Karppinen rowing to a gold medal in the 1980 Olympics; Grand Valley crew morning practice, 1969.

What’s your favorite place to row? > Charles River in September. Any other time is always too hot, or the river is iced over. Equipment you can’t live without > My German National Team spandex unisuit which I won for beating some Harvard erging benchmark my freshman year. It’s practically falling apart, but I’m still confident it makes me go faster. What’s your fondest rowing memory? > At Eaton: Jumping into the Thames and swimming after the coach’s runway moterboat in the winter of ’04 wearing just a unisuit (there was snow on the ground). At Harvard: Jumping into the Charles River after Harry Parker had broken a hole in the cide by the dock. This time, I was just wearing spandex shorts. u

J a y Ca p e r s/ L i bra r y o f Co n gre s s/ Ma tt Ro u rk e

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Party Like It’s 1968 At Lisa Perry’s Madison Avenue Boutique

Situated just steps from the Carlyle Hotel, the Lisa Perry flagship store is a whimsical wonderland infused with the designer’s love of the 1960s. The expansive white space is the ultimate canvas for an aesthetic dictated by clean lines, geometric shapes, and primary colors. Upon first glance, the art, fashion, and design pay homage to Lisa’s favorite era with an immaculate precision rivaling any wing at the neighboring Whitney museum. Closer examination reveals bursts of humor sprinkled cheekily throughout the store: a set of stools made to resemble oversized hamburgers are lined neatly next to a rack of vintage Courrèges; vinyl cushions with bright red lips; mod Lucite earrings shaped as oversized numbers; pop-art umbrellas; a yellow convertible dress that transforms into a top with the pull of a zipper. The designer is

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Anisha Lakhani

inspired by a decade, but the vision is uniquely her own, with a reinterpretation that is both modern and refreshing. Lisa emerges from the glass doors of her office dressed in a hot pink shift. It’s Eloise, all grown up, but with a sparkle in her eyes that suggests that the little girl from The Plaza still wants everyone to play. “Let me show you this amazing dress my friend made for Barbie,” she says. As I follow Lisa to the back of the store, I cannot help but marvel at the glass walls that do little to conceal staff workspace. Why the purposeful lack of privacy? Lisa grins and shares, “It’s my boutique translation of the visible kitchen trend in restaurants. I love the idea of transparency.” She pauses thoughtfully, then adds, “I also love being a shopkeeper.” Glass walls are a message to Perry’s customers: the designer

D a ve L i e b e r m an (O p po s i te a n d t o p le f t)

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This page: Lisa Perry in her Madison Avenue boutique, wearing a cream mod swing tunic and swing pant of her own design. > Opposite, from left: ’60s-style shift dresses brighten Perry’s stark white boutique; the classic, simple lines of a vintage Ungaro dress are much like Perry’s own designs.

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classes at F.I.T. and working in the family business. It was exactly where I wanted to be.” She met her husband at a party in the city. After dating for four years, the couple was among the first to get married at the Puck Building. “We were Puck Pioneers!” she says cheerfully. Motherhood arrived with the birth of twins—a boy and a girl—and while raising her children, Lisa discovered a new passion: volunteering at New York Presbyterian Hospital. She is on the board of trustees, but is better described as a “hands-on” trustee, having worked in the hospital for nearly twenty years, several of which were in the emergency department. “It is very important to me,” Lisa says. “The emergency room is a place where even seconds matter. Life or death. Whenever possible, I think the best kind of charity or volunteer work is when you are right in the middle of it, witnessing first-hand the difference you can make. It’s powerful.” The store’s whimsy and Perry’s hot-pink shift are given an added dimension when hearing the designer speak of her dedication to the hospital. Behind the joy and humor is precision and purpose. And a fearlessness of rolling up one’s sleeves the old-fashioned way and going forth boldly. During this time, a trip to Paris rekindled a childhood love for fashion, and gave it direction and inspiration. Lisa is

D a ve L i e b e r m an (L i sa Pe r r y )

is accessible and genuinely enjoys assisting. She reaches for a Barbie doll wearing a shift dress in newspaper print and hands it to me. “Look closely,” she says. “The dress is made out of the front page of the New York Times the day Barack Obama became president.” That’s her enchanting ability: to reinterpret the familiar with a personalized style. Barbie is emblematic of the entire store; Lisa’s touch is ever-present and it’s hard not to get a little lost exploring all the treasures. “I want it to be a destination,” she says. The next three words are breathed with quiet pride, “Here it is.” “Tell me about the journey,” I say. Every great destination has one. Lisa Perry grew up in the suburbs of Chicago, and loved fashion for as long as she can remember. She rolls her eyes good-naturedly and adds, “I mean, I was the fourth-grader with a Pucci scarf wrapped around her head.” In high school she did “that whole ’70s thing—tie dye, bell bottoms, lots of fringe—the works!” It’s hardly surprising then that Lisa was considered the best-dressed student at her high school and, shortly thereafter, found herself at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. “My family is in the textile business and had an office on 32nd Street,” Lisa recalls fondly, “So here I was, taking

D a ve L i e b e r m an (Per r y dre ss es )

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almost reverent when describing her first visit to Courrèges in Paris. “I walked in and, well, it was like being in a bubble of everything I loved. I was home.” She remembers revisiting and exploring designs by Pierre Cardin, some vintage Geoffrey Beene, and Bill Blass, of course. She learned the difference between second-hand clothing and vintage couture. A visit to Rita Watnik’s Lily et Cie in Beverly Hills was “like going to a museum” and she found herself sifting gingerly through racks of Givenchy, Chanel, Trigere, Norell, Balenciaga, and Yves St. Laurent. “This is when I started to narrow my taste, and discovered that 1968 was the year of fashion I loved the most,” she says. “I loved it the most because it was very futuristic. Ahead of its time. So, while it’s true most would say the store reminds you of the 1960s, it’s really the one year. 1968.” The Lisa Perry line began simply enough: “I just had six vintage inspired pieces designed for friends,” Perry explains. There were no American labels making the kind of designs Lisa liked to wear, and vintage haute couture is not always the most practical option. As friends began wearing her designs, Lisa received requests for more and ultimately decided, “Okay, let’s start with a simple line.” She launched in the summer of 2006 and the rest was ... history. The label, which was made in New York, was sold exclusively at Jeffrey for one year before

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This page, from left: the mod look is kept alive today through Perry’s designs; in the ’60s, the unstructured shift was an expression of women’s newfound freedom. > Opposite, from left: Perry at work in her office, in a short-sleeve swing dress in hot pink; print icon of a former era—Perry remembers wearing Emilio Pucci scarves as early as the fourth grade.

exploding into Bergdorf’s and Bloomingdale’s and, then, internationally—“London, Amsterdam, Russia. It was very exciting to see something I loved being so well received.” The interview has shifted to the dressing room, where I am slipping on the convertible dress in a lipstick red. The fabric skims the body with a fluidity that flatters, while the color and mod design make it incredibly chic. True to its name, a hidden zipper easily transforms the dress into a tailored top. Lisa’s designs are bold in color, but brilliantly forgiving in form. It’s almost impossible to leave the Lisa Perry store as her personally selected items wink from every corner, aiming to amuse and delight with an infusion of color and a nod to the 1960s. Her vision has indeed been realized, and the store is a must-stop destination: “My love for art, for fashion, for home design,” Lisa says, “It’s all here.” u SUMMER 2010/

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Stacey Bendet in her Manhattan apartment, seated on salvaged theatre seats between a colorful closet and the perfect playroom. The designer wears an alice + olivia dress paired with vintage platform shoes.

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Simply Stacey

produced by with

photographed by

Elizabeth Brown Daniel Cappello

Ben Fink Shapiro

“Lately, we’ve been listening to Joan Jett, She & Him, Phoenix,” says Bendet.

Bendet, walking into her apartment beneath a funky chandelier. > Opposite: Bendet emerging from the Chambers Street station; details from her Tribeca apartment, including “Eloise” dolls (whom her daughter is named after).

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Bendetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s apartment window looks out over Tribeca.

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Bendet poses downtown, wearing a chinchilla jacket that she designed for herself and sunglasses selected from her extensive collection. > Opposite: In her apartment, Bendet maintains a wall with magazine clippings that serve as inspiration.

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I enter the Tribeca apartment that alice + olivia’s Stacey Bendet shares with her husband and their daughter, Eloise. Everything is, at once, monochrome yet multicolored: a rainbow chandelier lights grayscale wallpaper and a collection of stuffed animals warms a black-and-white-striped armchair. Cool, natural light washes against the white walls. Standing here reminds me of my time as an intern at alice + olivia three years ago. That summer, I was compensated in Pinkberry and sample clothing. (I never minded.) Each day, I would ascend into the sunny showroom on Bryant Park wearing ombre or polkadots or sequins, all designed by Bendet during her first years as a designer. Today, her home feels something like that: fantastically eclectic and whimsical, a commingling of your favorite wardrobe pieces. I move through the space, admiring Bendet’s ability to merge her own design aesthetic with her family’s interests. A wall papered in pages torn from magazines is positioned across from the perfect playroom. Family portraits beam below original artwork. In the middle of it all, Eloise is twirling in circles. “She loves to dance,” Bendet says. Bendet, too, seems to waltz around her apartment. Everything about her exudes “fashion,” from her platform heels and fur legwarmers to the extensive closet that remains unapologetically open, as though part of the display. As a designer, Bendet says her vision is, “Ever-changing. Almost like a stream of consciousness. Sort of a never-ending, always-evolving process.” When working, Bendet relies on coconut water from Liquid Cafeteria or Organic Avenue and music: “Lately, we’ve been listening to Joan Jett, She & Him, Phoenix. Afterward, certain songs will remind me of a collection.” She designs for girls who, like her, are vintage and modern, uptown and downtown, Malibu and Manhattan. Recently, she produced a one-of-akind dress for Amy Fine Collins. “She’s always changing, but has extraordinary elegance. I think that’s part of being someone who’s iconic in fashion,” Bendet says. A similar sentiment could apply to Bendet, poised to open a store on Mercer Street and to expand into footwear. Always changing. Fashionable. Iconic. Simply Stacey. —Elizabeth Brown

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ove, left to right: This artice yet to mention skiing! Thi

because skiing is the focus in Crans. I know people od have never seen the top of the mountain and who not ther packing any ski gear for Crans. Skiing simply

notr necessary in order to have a good time. However,

Left: A model at a futuristic desk in infirmary pod, 1970. > Opposite: Porthole sunglasses and fall vinyl collars, Fall-Winter collection, 1970. Both from Jean-Pascal Hesse’s new book, Pierre

Space Style by

Georgina Schaeffer

Innovative and ionoclastic, Pierre Cardin’s career spans decades and empires. In Jean-Pascal Hesse’s new book, Pierre Cardin: 60 Years of Innovation (Assouline), readers journey back to the future in a remarkable photographic retrospective. From his bubble dress of 1954 to his pagoda sleeves of 1970—all the Cardin icons are represented. “I have been awarded medals in the world because my talent reaches beyond my profession,” says Cardin in an interview with Laurence Benaim in the book’s preface. “It was destiny. Nothing was premeditated. If you do not have the desire to be what you are, you will never succeed. Opportunitites came my way, and I seized them with passion, giving myself to them without giving myself away ... Luxury is needing nothing more than a pencil, a piece of paper, and a place to sleep—living like a particle, a cell.” Pietro Cardin was born in 1922 in San Biagio di Callalta, near Venice. His parents, wealthy landowners, moved to France when he was two to escape the fascist regime. When Cardin arrived in Paris after the war, he began working for Madame Paquin’s atelier. He eventually left Paquin to work under surrealist designer Elsa Schiaparelli and, three months later, met Christian Dior. When Dior opened his own house, he asked Cardin to join him, and Cardin agreed. But by 1950, Cardin sensed change and opened his own maison de couture in an attic on rue Richepanse. Two years later, Cardin met his partner in life and business, André Oliver. In 1953, Cardin showed his first collection in his attic atelier. A pleated coat was received so favorably that 200,000 of them would be bought in the United States alone. Moreover, he was discovered by the most important woman in fashion at

As so u li n e

Cardin: 60 Years of Innovation.

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“Geometric motifs, asymmetry, oversized buttons and collars, hooped dresses, vinyl inserts—Cardin is an original in every sense

As so u li n e

of the word.”

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This page: Two-tone dresses in jersey shown with vinyl thigh-high boots, 1969. Photo by Yoshi Takata. > Opposite: The cover of Pierre Cardin.

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This page, from top: A vinyl trapeze dress from 1968; a long panel dress in jersey, 1970. > Opposite: Cocktail dresses with conical breasts, 1966. Photograph by Yoshi Takata from the Pierre Cardin catalog

the time: Carmel Snow, then editor of Harper’s Bazaar, and, at the age of thirty-one, Cardin’s career took flight. The following year, after Cardin presented his bubble dress, he opened his first boutique (which he called Eve), quickly followed by another in 1957 (Adam), and he began a business of designing ties and shirts for men. That same year, he traveled to Japan for the first time with photographer Yoshi Takata, where he taught cutting at a local college. For this, the following year, the City of Boston awarded him the Young Designers prize—the first of countless awards bestowed on Cardin. In 1958, he showed his balloon dress, and in 1960 he showed full-skirted dresses and trapezoidal coats in bright colors. The “Cardin style” was born. While committed to certain elements of his style—asymetrical collars, scalloped edges, fans, frog and loop closures and oversize buttons—the details would be reinterpreted to adapt to the main theme for each season. Inspired by the space age, the circular shape is a constant element. Cardin lead the way in designing for the masses and branding a fashion company, which would continue right through his work in the 1990s. In 1959, he presented his first readyto-wear collection at the Printemps department store and hired 240 male students to introduce his men’s collection. Cardin was promptly kicked out of the Chambre Syndicale of Haute Couture (though three years later, they would offer him the presidency). By 1963, Cardin had mass distribution. He developed children and home lines. He would license his name further than any other designer in history so that today “one can wear, eat, drink, or live in Cardin: cigarettes, champagne, cosmetics, perfume, chocolate, wallpaper, automomobiles, planes—his name is on everything,” writes Hesse. Cardin presented a special collection to celebrate the sixtieth anniversary of his company at his Bubble Palace—a place which represents the culimination of Cardin style. And a happy birthday indeed. u

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As so u li n e

published by the Carla Sozzani Gallery in Milan in 2004.

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The Sartorial Touch by

Daniel Cappello

There is something modern, clean, and inviting— not to mention utterly stylish—about the downstairs private shopping area of Domenico Vacca’s New York boutique at 702 Madison Avenue. The space has a modern-Italian design sense: marble-smooth floors, lots of light, polished wood everywhere. It’s unusually cool and windy for a late-spring morning in Manhattan, but when Vacca walks down the stairs in his habitually impeccable clothing—a high-collared white shirt peeking out from a striped gray suit that moves as one with his body—his affable demeanor warms the room and brings the store to life. Vacca has come to show me some upcoming pieces from his men’s and women’s Fall 2010 collections. Back in 2002, when he launched his label in the United States, he was crowned the king of handmade clothing almost instantaneously. Many designers can claim a discerning fan base or a celebrity following. Vacca can claim both, and then some. When his U.S. presence was announced with a Fifth Avenue store, that other Italian master, Valentino, could be found on

D i m a H o h lovs / w o m e nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s c ol le c ti o n; Vac ca p o r trai t c o ur te sy Do m e ni c o Vacca

From the Fall 2010 womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection: Metallic glazed herringbone wool suit with silk three-button shirt and beaded deatials; silk charmeuse cocktail dress with leather gloves. > Opposite: Pleated gold lurex wool sweater-dress; portrait of Vacca.

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More from the Fall 2010 collections. This page: The women’s beaded shirt dress with herringbone double-collar wool jacket; the men’s limited-edition blazer. > Opposite: A men’s limited-edition blazer; women’s metallic glazed herringbone wool dress with suede gloves; silk charmeuse cocktail dress; detail of men’s blazer with two-button shirt, nine-fold tie, and linen pocket square; women’s lurex wool draped hip cocktail dress; Domenico and Julie Vacca attend the Golden Globe Awards; herringbone wool coat; men’s blazer with two-ply cashmere sweater; women’s leather one-shoulder cocktail

any given Sunday shopping for suits. Today, Vacca counts everyone from Fortune-500 regulars like Edgar Bronfman, Jr., to Hollywood priestess Renée Zellweger as loyal customers. With Vacca, it’s not about the celebrity, but rather about the unrelenting caliber and craftsmanship of his work. Vacca practically launched the craze for sartorial clothing—that is, clothing made exclusively by hand. He is responsible for bringing back true and exceptional luxury—quality—to fashion. This feat is no surprise, given that he was, so to speak, tailormade for the vocation. Vacca’s family, from Andria, in southern Italy, was for decades deeply rooted in the craft of fashion. He grew up watching clothing being made by hand. “It’s funny,” he tells me. “While the north of Italy was becoming richer and able to invest in machinery, Naples, and the south, was poorer, and had to keep making things by hand.” In a twist of irony, it was meagerness that sustained the craft of what is now luxury in fashion. Anyone fortunate enough to wear sartorial clothing knows the difference. “When something is made by hand, the threads take on the form of the body who wears it,” Vacca explains, as he shows me a yet unseen blazer from his limited-edition men’s collection that is meant to début in 2011. “If done by machine, that article will have no memory of the body it was on. It will keep going back to the way it was stitched.” After working in law and publishing, Vacca followed his instincts and dove into fashion. Not only did he launch a line, but also the sartorial trend. He joined forces with his wife, Julie, and now offers a total lifestyle collection for men and women. He’s expanded to six stores nationwide, and is also in Russia and Qatar. With old-world craftsmanship (he works with 100 tailors and 250 seamstresses to construct his collections by hand in Naples), superb fabrics, and the faultless fits of his contemporary cuts, Vacca’s label is known as the “Ferrari of clothing.” This year’s women’s collection for Fall remains true to that perfect construction and pure Italian line, but with a fashionforward feel. Vacca pulls up a woman’s blazer to show me. The signature Vacca heritage is there, but with modern flair— cropped sleeves, shawl overlays, a short waist. Vacca credits Julie, who is also his creative director, and explains the everprogressing line of his fashion, as represented in this collection. “Pure Domenico Vacca,” he says, “with an edge.” u

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D i m a H o h lovs / w o m e n’s c ol le c ti o n; En r i co M oro / me n’s co llec ti o n

dress with stretch leather riding pants and studded leather gloves.

Dial ‘S’ For Style

Many of Alfred Hitchcock’s greatest films centered on women. > Opposite: Hitchcock conveyed his obsession with The Birds star Tippi Hedren by devoting his most dramatic fashion attention to her characters.

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Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

While watching the

Nick Burd

leading ladies in an Alfred Hitchcock film, it becomes clear that the director subscribes to the notion that fashion is “close to the quick of the soul,” as the writer Stella Blum once observed. It’s a lovely idea because it takes the clichéd notion that we dress the way we do as a carefully crafted form of individual expression, and elevates fashion into something that is helplessly telling about a person. It recognizes that everything we do—or don’t do—is a deeper revelation of the self than we realize: fashion as a sort of personal Rorschach. Hitchcock’s working relationship with legendary costume designer Edith Head was a collaboration rooted in cinematic narrative and mood, arguably the two most important elements of any Hitchcock film. There are times when the camera falls on one of the director’s well-coiffed beauties and you can almost hear him hyperventilating behind the camera. Like all obsessed men, he is acutely aware of the possibility for wonder, heartbreak, and danger that resides in every woman. He is a visual artist, begging the audience to see the characters through his eyes and fall victim to the same intoxication. Head has said that Hitchcock chose Kim Novak’s classic gray suit in Vertigo because he wanted her character to give the impression of someone who had “just stepped out of the San Francisco fog—a woman of mystery and illusion.” Initially, Novak was ambivalent about the suit choice, but in The Dark Side of Genius: The Life Of Alfred Hitchcock, author Donald Spoto writes that Hitchcock won her over by explaining that he’d been planning her clothing and hairstyles for months. He told her that the actual story of a film was not as important to him as the “over-all visual impact on screen.” Indeed, decades later, the gray suit has become emblematic of the film itself and the idea of dangerous obsession. So many of Hitchcock’s greatest films are about women.

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Vertigo, The Birds, Rear Window, Marnie, Dial ‘M’ for Murder, and The Man Who Knew Too Much all feature female leads who are as adventurous and mysterious as their male counterparts. They are fully formed characters with hopes, dreams, sexuality, and fears. Wardrobe is an afterthought to many directors, but for Hitchock, who was known for perfectionism and a controlling tendency, it was a vital tool for conveying a woman’s complex personality. At times, Hitchcock’s costumes even took control of his decisions. Spoto wrote in his biography of the filmmaker that the finale of To Catch a Thief took place at a costume ball simply because Hitchcock was obsessed with putting Grace Kelly in a gaudy gold dress at some point in the film. Who would’ve thought that one of the world’s most successful directors would have sacrificed logic for the sake of fashion? Hitchcock’s need to control every aspect of his characters led him to occasionally obsess over his actors’ personal lives. When he signed Vera Miles (who played the concerned sister of Marion Crane, Psycho’s famous showerscene victim), he had Edith Head design her an entire wardrobe for both on- and off-screen so she wouldn’t go around looking “like a Van Nuys housewife.” Miles and Hitchcock would go on to make cinematic fashion history upon Psycho’s release: it was the first film to show a woman wearing nothing but a bra and a slip. It was a gloriously demystifying event for a man who built his career on the allure of the unknown.  For all of Hitchcock’s eccentricities, he tended toward a very classic sense of style. His favorite actress to work with—and to dress—was the epitome of classic beauty: Grace Kelly. Lisa Freemont, Kelly’s character in Rear Window, is a sophisticated New York socialite who has no qualms throwing

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This page: Cary Grant and Grace Kelly in To Catch a Thief. > Opposite, clockwise from top left: In Rear Window, Grace Kelly saves the day without sacrificing fashion; In Marnie, Hitchcock often dressed Tippi Hedren in green—a not-so-subtle cue to her character’s love of money; Janet Leigh during the famous Psycho shower scene; Kim Novak in Vertigo; Janet Leigh in Psycho.

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This page, left: Grace Kelly in a still from To Catch a Thief. Below: Tippi Hedren with Alfred Hitchcock in The Birds. > Opposite: Kim Novak between takes with Hitchcock on the set of Vertigo. The gray suit she wore during much of the film became its hallmark. > Inset, from left to right: Rita Hayworth looking ultra glamorous in a still from You Were Never Lovelier; Through Tippi Hedren’s clothing in Marnie, Hitchcock conveyed her character’s unrelenting desire for glamour, even if it cost her everything.

down $1,100 for a chiffon gown, no matter how much her rugged Hemingwayesque companion—played by Jimmy Stewart—may chide her. She imagines their future in terms of what they’ll be wearing: When she begs him to settle down from his life as a globetrotting photographer in order to open a studio in the city, she says, “I could see you looking very handsome and successful in a dark blue flannel suit.”  “She’s too perfect,” Stewart tells his nurse early in the film. “She’s too beautiful.” Kelly has yet to make an appearance at this point in the movie, but it isn’t long before we see exactly what Stewart was talking about. Soon she comes gliding into the apartment with her lips painted ruby red and her figure draped in pearls and black-and-white chiffon. The slow-motion kiss she plants on Stewart’s face wakes him, the audience, and the film itself. We suddenly remember that she was the Princess of Monaco, and she was the Princess of Hitchcock, too. The final image of film is of Kelly lazily reclining by that notorious rear window with an issue of Harper’s Bazaar. She

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may have already solved a murder and won the heart of her adventurous boyfriend, but she still needs to know what she’ll be wearing next season. And, after climbing through a murderer’s window while wearing a full-skirted floral dress to save the day, it’s a luxury she’s earned. Famously, only one woman obsessed Hitchcock even more than Grace Kelly: actress Tippi Hedren. Like Kelly, Hedren gets a similarly dramatic—and fashionable—entrance in the 1964 film Marnie. The first frame opens with a close-up of a woman’s bright yellow purse, which we later learn contains a large sum of stolen money. Moments later, we see Hedren herself— the woman carrying the purse—washing her dark hair dye out in the sink. Her bed is a mess of clothes and accessories. Hedren raises her head from the sink, newly blond and smiling triumphantly: a mystery beneath a mystery. Throughout the film, Hitchcock uses her character’s fashion choices to show us a conniving woman who is both concerned with keeping her illegal activities under the radar but is also helpless against her need for glamour—even if it means buying it with stolen cash. Hitchcock often dresses Marnie in green. Not only is this a cool respite from the film’s use of blazing red, which triggers Marnie’s mental instability, but it also not-so-subtly points to her obsession with money. Later on, when Marnie is in the midst of pulling a con under an assumed name, we see her in subdued shades of brown, pulling the hem of her skirt down over her knees, and suddenly she’s anything but the kind of girl who walks around with a canary-colored purse stuffed with cash. Hitchcock was aware that we are always writing the story of our lives. He knew that everything we do is a performance, a choice, and that it tells those around us far more about our hopes, fears, and indiscretions than we often realize. But, more importantly, he was one of the first major filmmakers who saw the potential for using fashion as both a narrative tool and a sensation that lingers with us long after we have woken from the dream of his films. u

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COAST TO COAST VIRGINIA

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COAST TO COAST VIRGINIA

To m D a l y

Charlottesville

On the last Saturday in April and the last Sunday in September, the steeplechase tradition is continued in the rolling hunt countryside of Albemarle County, Virginia. The Foxfield Races, widely known as one of the social highlights of the spring semester at UVA, attracts thousands of people from Virginia and the Eastern Seaboard. Picnics, tailgating, and tent parties abound in anticipation of the six exciting steeplechase races, which run biannually in the shadow of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Robert Redd served as this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main sponsor of the Foxfield Spring Races.

1. Robert Matheson; 2. Andrea Matheson and Charles Matheson stand by as an award is presented; 3. Observers look on; 4. Kaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;li Taylor; 5. Whitney Wigton, Abby Tracey, Libby MacVeigh, Elizabeth Tuke, Taylor Angino, Carey Duszak and Bob Duszak; 6. Kelly Rohrbach is all smiles.

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COAST TO COAST CALIFORNIA

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Ro b e r t Fu l t o n I V

Los Angeles

Kasey Crown, together with friends Flo Fulton and Ali Larter, hosted a “shop for a cause” ladies’ luncheon earlier this season at the home of Colleen Bell. The event benefited the Relational Center, a grassroots Los Angeles-based wellness center, and was sponsored by V Vintage of Beverly Hills, which is owned by Jill Garland. Among the jewelry sold at the event were vintage pieces from Chanel, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Judith Leiber, Nettie Rosenstein, Ciner, and French Paste. These L.A. ladies helped bolster Relational Center’s community-outreach initiatives in the fields of counseling and education.

1. Julie Brawn and Amy Smart; 2. A necklace from V Vintage; 3. Flo Fulton, Kasey Crown and Ali Larter; 4. Michelle Hansel, Rebecca Nassi, Lorin Stevenson and Traci Kucer; 5. Chris Mack and Jenny Kennedy.

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C O A S T T O C O A S T N E W YO R K

Pa t ric k M c M u l l a n

New York City

The Whitney Museum of American Art hosted its annual Art Party to benefit its Independent Study Program and other museum educational programs at a new locationâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;82 Mercer Street (between Broome and Spring streets). BCBG MAXAZRIA partnered with the Whitney for the fourth consecutive year. In addition to cocktails and dancing, the event featured a fund-raising auction and live performance art, which included the talent of four former ISP participants: Ellen Harvey, Ryan Humphrey, Liz Magic Laser, and Jason Middlebrook. Music was provided by DJ Paul Sevigny.

1. Lubov Azria and Allison Aston; 2. Darrell Hartman and Prabal Gurung; 3. Paul Sevigny; 4. Bronson Van Wyck and Jada Yuan; 5. Adam Lippes and Natalie Joos; 6. Rachel Zoe; 7. Neel Shah; 8. Annie Chruchill Albert and Dalia Oberlander; 9. Andrew Bevan and Lauren Remington Platt; 10. Andrea Lawn, Harry Stendhal and Elizabeth Grimaldi.

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Cannes

C h o p a rd

Twelve years after being commissioned by the president of the Cannes Film Festival with redesigning the famous Palme d’Or statuette, Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele has made the Chopard name uniquely linked to the world’s most glamorous film event. This year, Chopard hosted more than a week’s worth of events celebrating the sixty-third Cannes Film Festival, including the Trophée Chopard Prize-

1. Eva Herzigova; 2. Woody Allen and Naomi Watts;

Giving Ceremony, the Woody Allen Party, and the 150th Anniversary Party. The alliance between the Swiss jewelry company and France’s red-carpeted Côte d’Azur is a surefire match on the Mediterranean.

Riccobo; 5. Margherita Missoni; 6. Kate Beckinsale;

3. The Hilton family; 4. Matteo Ceccarini and Eva 7. Moran Atias, Esti Ginsburg and Michelle Rodriguez.

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H E A LT H

Beauty And The Brain

“Everyone in America needs a brain print,” says Dr. Eric Braverman, founder of New York’s PATH Medical Center and its Executive Health Program, a process that begins with a sweeping head-to-toe physical examination and results in an individualized wellness program. The traditional doctor’s exam is misleading, he says. “You can tap on a human body, but that’s like kicking a car. Who would buy a car by kicking it?” After a day at PATH, patients receive full-body ultrasounds, personality tests, extensive blood work, bone-density testing, and more—all in the privacy of a personal suite. The brain is the hallmark of Braverman’s research. Poor brain health contributes to weight gain and aging—not to mention serious diseases. Alzheimer’s, for instance, can be detected in someone as young as 25, Braverman says. “It takes thirty years for Alzheimer’s to occur, so we find it all the time. The way it’s picked up is by testing brain speed. Then you come up with an entire strategy for preventing dementia.” Even for those in good health, understanding the brain may be the key to keeping in shape and staying youthful. The nervous system, after all, burns up to 25% of the body’s calories, “more than the thyroid,” according to Braverman. His take on the aging process is blunt—“We burn out, we dry up, we swell up or become inflamed, we calcify, then we rust a little, choke on our blood supply, and then we go nuts”—but luckily, most stages can be treated with simple at-home remedies. “Burn-out is corrected by antioxidants—blueberries, pomegranate juice, green tea. Dryness, unfortunately, is hormonal. Inflammation can be helped with aspirin and fish oil, which is basically the best anti-inflammatory. Calcification has to do with not getting enough Vitamin D and calcium—that’s fish oil again. Rust is living in New York. You accumulate lead and mercury, so that can be treated with zinc, Vitamin C, and selenium, which gets rid of mercury. Fifty percent of our last six hundred patients had elevated levels of mercury—that’s rust. Then you get to choking to death, which is loss of muscle mass. The heart and muscles produce the body’s blood supply together and they’re responsible for growing new blood vessels in the brain. For that, you’ve just got to exercise.” Someday, Braverman predicts, extensive brain examination will be a routine part of pediatric medicine. Until then, we’ll have to learn to mind our own minds. u For more information, call 212.213.6155 or see pathmed.com.

This page: The PATH Medical Center at 304 Park Avenue South in New York. > Opposite: PATH founder Dr. Eric Braverman.

SUMMER 2010/

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beauty as k t h e e x perts

Chantal Sanders

Michelle Copeland

Clarins Senior Director of Boutique and Spa Development 212.362.0190 / clarins.com Rx: The line of high performance Clarins Brightening Plus HP products works to create brighter, more translucent, flawless, even-toned skin.

Founder of Dr. Michelle Copeland Skin Care 866.833.SKIN / drmichellecopeland.com Rx: The active ingredient in the REWIND Advanced Day Serum is Matrixyl 3000R, which helps the skin look smoother and plumper while reducing the appearance of discolorations.

Q: Many people don’t like wearing anything on our skin when it’s hot out. What is absolutely necessary? A: The best product is Clarins’ UV Plus SPF 40. It gives you the sun protection but has such a light texture that you really don’t feel like you have anything on the skin. The idea is to put it on top of your moisturizer, but I have oilier skin, so I just use it on its own, particularly when the weather’s really heavy.

Q: What type of SPF should we look for in the summer? A: SPF is a measure of how long a person can stay in the sun without burning. An SPF of 30 means thirty times longer than if you went out with nothing on. It’s important to keep in mind that all skin is different. A woman with very pale skin, of Irish heritage, for example, may last only a minute or two before her bare skin turns pink, so an SPF 30 would give her thirty minutes before she needed to reapply. Look for a sunblock that protects against UVA and UVB rays. SPF measures a product’s ability to block UVB (burning) rays. A product’s power to shield against UVA (aging) rays is not currently labeled. UVA rays break down collagen and elastin fibers supporting skin.

Q: Does a moisturizer with SPF offer enough protection? A: If you’re just going to be walking around during the day then most moisturizers on the market have and SPF of 15 to 20 and that’s fine, but if you’re going to be out in the sunlight for a long period of time, that’s when you need to think about having a sun cream on of SPF 30 or more. Q: Can skin products really reverse the signs of sun damage? A: The best way to do that is through our brightening range. Really, the technical answer is that, if you’ve got sunspots, you can’t actually make them completely go away. But, with a course of treatments you can treat them, make them less severe, and certainly fade them. It’s also easier, then, to camouflage with makeup. The sea lily extract in Clarins’ brightening day lotion, serum—the intensive core treatment—and spot corrector stops the overproduction of melanin. Q: What are your favorite summertime spa treatments? A: The Clarins brightening facial makes skin fresh and radiant. Also, the purifying facial for a deeper cleanse. It gets so sticky with heat and concrete and pollution—especially in New York—that this offers a good detoxifying process.

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/ SUMMER 2010

Q: If our skin protects us from the sun, should we exfoliate less in the summer? A: While it’s true that surplus surface cells offer a slight shield against the rays, that benefit is outweighed by the greater gain you’ll get in encouraging cell turnover. Yes, you need to be fastidious about applying sunblock to polished skin, but sunblock is much more effective at guarding you from UVinduced cell damage than the most concentrated layer of dead cells would ever be. There’s really no way around it—you must wear sun protection, especially from May through September. Q: Should we skip moisturizer in the summer? A: During the summer, the glands produce more oil, so you may want to switch to a product that is not as moisturizing for your face. Your hands and legs, however, don’t contain oil-producing glands, so you want to be sure to moisturize those areas which can become dry and flaky regardless of the season.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

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beauty as k t h e e x perts

Sarah Howard

Joel Warren

Beauty writer and founder of beautybanter.com beautybanter.com Rx: While showing off legs in the summer, it’s important that they be flake-free. I love REN Moroccan Rose Otto Sugar Body Polish. It smells delish and removes all remnants of dead skin.

L’Oreal Professionnel Hair Color Ambassador 212.262.8899 / warrentricomi.com Rx: The Warren-Tricomi Protect Organic Hair Shield creates a lightweight, invisible shield around the hair that instantly protects it from environmental damage.

Q: What makeup do you wear to the beach, if any? A: If I wear anything, it’s a tinted moisturizer and a waterproof mascara. Try tints—they look natural and stay put. Tarte makes some great tints that can be worn on lips and cheeks. Definitely use a primer before makeup application. Primers “matte” the skin and help keep makeup in place for hours longer. Try blotting papers, too. Boscia makes amazing blotting linens that get rid of the sweat and oil, but keep makeup in its place.

Q: What color trends will we be seeing this summer? A: As with every summer season, we will be seeing a lot of blondes. Everyone always tends to go a little bit lighter for this time of year. We are currently doing a lot of golden blondes, ash blondes, and even lighter shades of red.

Q: Are there any self-tanners that you like? A: A friend of mine introduced me to GlowFusion a few years back and I still covet it! It comes in a bottle with an atomizer and sprays on for the most natural bronzed glow. I use it primarily on my face as it doesn’t make me break out or appear blotchy. Try using a beauty blender sponge to blot self-tanner on the skin for an even, “airbrushed” look. Always be cautious when applying any self-tanners to elbows, knees, hands, and feet. Moisturize prior to application so that the formula glides on more evenly in these areas. Q: What are some new beachy hairstyles you’re a fan of? A: I’m always into unkempt, beach-chic hair. Natural curls are great and low-maintenance. Bumble & Bumble makes an incredible range of products called Curl Conscious. The one must-have product in the line is the Reactivator Mist. It really does give tresses an instant lift. I’m also loving this season’s hair trend—the side braid. It’s so easy to wear and spices up any look. Just gather hair to one side and loosely braid. Attach with an elastic, allowing pieces to fall about your face. Nicole Richie and Fergie have been sporting the style.

Q: What celebrity blondes do you love? A: I think some great examples of blondes that keep the trend hot throughout every summer season are Sienna Miller, Cameron Diaz, Kate Hudson, and Reese Witherspoon. Q: Should everyone go lighter in the summer? A: Lighter shades of color and/or highlights tend to lighten up your face. I do think it is a smart choice to go lighter for the summer as everyone’s hair tends to lighten up a bit naturally with the sun and it will match a sun-kissed, golden complexion. Q: What are some of your biggest pet peeves? A: One of my biggest color pet peeves is when someone colors their hair in a shade or tone that doesn’t best bring out their facial appearance. For example, many times women with fair skin will dye their hair very dark or extremely light and it will wash out their features. You really need to match your skin tone and eye color to try and choose the shade that is best for you. Q: So how do we know what color best matches our skin? A: Think about what colors you wear on a daily basis and hair colors you’ve had in the past that looked great. If you choose a double process with highlights, choose to go lighter around the face frame to brighten your complexion. SUMMER 2010 /

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Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L B E A U T Y FA C E

1 S T Y L E

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/ S U M M E R 20 1 0

The Swiss actress became the iconic Bond girl the moment she emerged from the ocean in this white bikini. This summer, you can channel the Dr. No sun goddess with the latest beach-friendly beauty loot. 2. la prairie Layer or wear the Whisper Shades eye colors alone for a breezy, low-maintenance look. $70. 3. chanel Perfect for summer evenings, Chanel’s Rouge Allure lip color in Génial looks striking and feels weightless. $32. 4. perricone md Get bikini ready with Cold Plasma Body, a hydrating and smoothing solution that reduces the appearance of cellulite and wrinkles. $95. 5. guerlain The Météorites Perles powder corrects discoloration and reflects light for a luminous complexion. $56. 6. elemis Soften and polish your entire body with this detoxifying Exotic Lime & Ginger Salt Glow scrub. $58. 7. beauty by clinica ivo pitanguy A good moisturizer is just as important in the summer as in the winter, and the Previous Restoring Formula not only rehydrates the skin, but shields it from pollutants and harsh environmental conditions. $300. 1. ursula andress

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

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BEAUTY FRAGRANCE

5 This ’60s sweetheart takes the time to smell the flowers and, thanks to the many new floral and citrus fragrances in bloom this summer, so can you! 2. hanae mori Go green with the fruity and floral No. 1, which derives many of its ingredients from renewable sources. Plus, a portion of the proceeds will benefit a global-warming charity. $95. 3. balenciaga The violet essence in the fashion house’s signature fragrance, Balenciaga Paris, is sure to enliven the senses. $95. 4. hermÈs This fresh, woodsy eau de toilette provides a crisp scent just light enough for summer. $90. 5. bond no. 9 The tangy limited-edition Andy Warhol Montauk fragrance was inspired by the artist’s iconic sunset prints. $145. 6. prada The Infusion de Tubéreuse highlights Indian tuberose in this delicate, but playful, feminine fragrance. $74. 7. gucci The rich floral and citrus notes of Flora by Gucci make it perfect for a romantic summer evening. $60. 8. atelier cologne The energizing Orange Sanguine from this new brand will make you radiate like sunshine. $145.

1. ann-margret

S U M M E R 20 1 0 /

8 Q105

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L EVENING LOOKS

S T Y L E

This summer, ease out of the pool and into evening with any of the inspired looks on these pages. From a draped J. Mendel to a fringe-heavy Alberta Ferretti, dress it up in style. 1. elke sommer could look just as glamorous posing for pictorials in Playboy in the mid-1960s as she could attending the Golden Globes, where she received the “Most Promising Newcomer” award in 1963. Be inspired by Sommer by dripping new stunner diamonds (like these from Bulgari) from your ears and slipping into something fringed and fancy, be it black feathers or a satin bustier. 2. bulgari High Jewelry Earrings by Bulgari in 18-kt. white gold with round brilliant cut diamonds (9.66-ct.) and diamond pavé (1.08-ct.); price upon request. 3. alberta ferretti Shimmy and sway in this strapless satin fringe bustier dress by Alberta Ferretti ($3,495), shown here with a tulle bateau-neck T-shirt with jewel embellishment ($1,440). 4. J. CREW The Ribbon Rosette Clutch is a classic occasion clutch made all the more savory by rows of romantic rosettes. In rayon and silk with a cotton twill lining with antiqued gold-finish hardware; $98.

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/ SUMMER 2010

3 4

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EVENING LOOKS

1. christian dior launched his first fashion collection in 1947 to such critical acclaim that Harper’s Bazaar dubbed it the “New Look.” His fresh take on full skirts, large busts, and tiny waists earned him icon status from the get-go. Dior always reigned as a king of fashion, and his full, feminine evening looks are always worth reaching for. 2. asprey Asprey’s clutches come in the most distinguished finishes and perfect colors, like the Regent, in white-pearl python; $2,550. 3. christian louboutin The Fortitia shoe is a black strappy heel with rouched-lace front detailing; $875. 4. carolina herrera A stunning shade of red with dramatic flair and perfect proptions: the Azalea silk gazaar faille gown; $5,590. 5. chopard Chopard’s ruby-and-diamond earrings are set with fifty pear-shape diamonds weighing in at six carats and thirty-six rubies weighing nineteen carats; price available upon request.

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

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EVENING LOOKS

1 1. sophia loren and Jayne mansfield looked va-va-voom at Romanoff’s in Beverly Hills, wearing low-cut dresses and chandelier earrings. Quite risqué for 1957! 2. roger vivier Inspired look: the Masquerade by Roger Vivier is a black suede pump with gold detail—sleek and elegant enough for any eveing look, with a bit of daring in the mask detail. Next time the invitation calls for a masked ball, don’t forget to slip into these; $675. 3. dennis basso Purpose silk and wool lace dress; $5,800. 4. michael kors Kass clutch in natural python; $995. 5. asprey The Windsor bracelet set here in white gold with amethysts, pink sapphires, and pavé white diamonds; $18,500. 6. leviev Emerald bead and diamond earrings. The emerald beads weigh a total of 42.93 carats and are mounted with twelve marquise, two heart, and two pearshaped diamonds weighing a total of 8.44 carats, handcrafted in platinum and 18-kt. white gold; price upon request.

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/ SUMMER 2010

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Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

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EVENING LOOKS

sketched this gown in 1953; however, it was not realized until 1991, for an exhibition in Rome. The designer has always loved using black, white, and drapery together. Look your evening best with a draped Valentino or with a J. Mendel of your own, as pictured here. 2. tiffany & Co. Jean Schlumberger’s Ribbon Rosette necklace is set with more than 1,000 round brilliant diamonds. A previous version was centered with the Tiffany Diamond and worn by Audrey Hepburn in publicity photographs for the 1961 film Breakfast at Tiffany’s; price upon request. 3. j. mendel The J. Mendel slate silk organza gown with pleated bodice and draped skirt; $7,900. 4. miu miu Try these on for size: silver glitter mule with crystal detail; $695. 5. judith leiber Judith Leiber is the go-to designer for evening clutches and handbags. Detailed, sleek, bejewelled, and dazzling, there’s always a shade and a finish that’s right for any occasion. Pictured here is the large Slender Curve in champagne; $1,595.

1. valentino

SUMMER 2 0 1 0 /

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SHOPPING INDEX

> Bally: 212.751.9082 or bally.com. > Barneys New York: 888.222.7639 or barneys.com. > Bergdorf Goodman: 888.774.2424 or bergdorfgoodman.com. > Betteridge Jewelers: 203.869.0124, 561.655.5850, or betteridge.com. > Beauty by Clinica Ivo Pitanguy: At Bergdorf Goodman, 212.872.8785, or bergdorfgoodman.com > Bloomingdale’s: 800.777.0000 or bloomingdales.com. > Bond No. 9: 212.838.2780 or bondno9.com. > Brooks Brothers: 800.274.1815 or brooksbrothers.com. > Bulgari: 800.BVGLARI or bulgari.com. > Burberry: 800.284.8480 or burberry.com.

C > Car Shoe: +39.02.798345 or carshoe.com. > Carolina Herrera: 212.249.6552 or carolinaherrera.com. > Cartier: 800.CARTIER or cartier.com. > Celine: 212.486.9700 or celine.com. > Chanel: 800.550.0005 or chanel.com. > Chloé: 212.717.8220 or chloe.com. > Chopard: 212.218.7222 or chopard.com. > Christian Dior: 212.931.2950 or dior.com. > Christian Louboutin: 212.396.1884 or christianlouboutin.com. > Cynthia Rowley: 212.242.0847 or cynthiarowley.com.

Now that summer is (finally!) here, make sure you’re ready for lazy afternoons and balmy nights. Like a kid to a candy store, you will be drawn to crisp whites and bold prints—the perfect complements to beachwear. Here, we’ve put together a list of this issue’s featured vendors to help you in your search. Also, be sure to join the Quest and Q pages on Facebook to read all about fashion’s top trends. And don’t forget to follow our blog at questmag.wordpress.com. Happy shopping!

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/ SUMMER 2010

SHOP ’TIL YOU DROP! A

D > David Yurman: 877.908.1177 or davidyurman.com. > Delman: 212.399.2323 or delmanshoes.com. > Dennis Basso: 212.794.4500 or dennisbasso.com.

> Akris: 212.717.1170 or akris.ch.

> Diane von Furstenberg: 646.486.4800 or

> alice + olivia: 212.840.2010 or aliceandolivia.com.

dianevonfurstenberg.com.

> Alberta Ferretti: 310.652.9000 or albertaferretti.com.

> Dolce & Gabbana: 212.249.4100 or store.

> Anne Fontaine: 866.423.0367 or annefontaine.com.

dolcegabbana.com.

> Asprey: 212.688.1811 or asprey.com.

> Domenico Vacca: 212.421.8902 or domenicovacca.com.

> Atelier Cologne 800.715.1390 or ateliercologne.com.

B > Balenciaga: 212.206.0872 or balenciaga.com.

E > Elemis: At Bergdorf Goodman, 800.423.5293, or timetospa.com/elemis.

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SHOPPING INDEX

> Elie Tahari: 212.334.4441 or elietahari.com.

> Lisa Perry: 212.431.7467 or lisaperrystyle.com.

> Scully & Scully: 800.223.3717 or

> Emily Elizabeth: 212.260.5423 or

> Luca Luca: 212.755.2444 or

scullyandscully.com.

emilyelizabethjewelry.com. > Etro: 212.315.0623 or etro.com. > Eres: 888.656.3737 or eresparis.com.

lucaluca.com. > Lulu Frost: 212.963.0045 or lulufrost.com.

> Seaman Schepps: 212.753.9520 or seamanschepps.com. > Sebago: 866.699.7367 or sebago.com. > Sephora: 877.SEPHORA or sephora.com.

> Manolo Blahnik: 212.582.3007 or

> Shoshanna: 212.719.3601 or shoshanna.com.

> Gant: 212.620.5949 or gant.com.

manoloblahnik.com.

> Simon Spurr: At Bloomingdale’s.

> Gucci: 877.482.2430 or gucci.com.

> Marc Jacobs: 212.343.1490 or marcjacobs.com.

> Guerlain: 212.872.7200 or guerlain.com.

> Michael Kors: 212.452.4685 or michaelkors.com.

> Milly: 212.921.7800 or millyny.com.

> Tag Heuer: At Bloomingdale’s or

> Minnie Mortimer: 310.476.5438 or

tagheuer.com

> Halston: 212.282.1200 or halston.com.

minniemortimer.com.

> Theory: 877.242.3317 or theory.com.

> Hanae Mori: At Bloomingdale’s, 212.705.2000, or

> Miu Miu: 212.249.9660 or miumiu.com.

> Tibi: 212.966.3773 or tibi.com.

H bloomingdales.com. > Harry Winston: 800.988.4110 or harrywinston.com.

> Haute Hippie: 212.909.1279 or hautehippie.com.

> Nicole Romano: 212.221.7212 or nicoleromano.com.

> Havaianas: 866.822.0962 or havaianas.com.

> Tiffany & Co.: 561.659.6090 or tiffany.com. > Tod’s: 212.644.5945 or tods.com. > Tom Ford: 212.359.0300 or tomford.com. > Tory Burch: 866.480.TORY or toryburch.com.

> Hermès: 800.441.4488 or hermes.com.

> Hunter Boot: Limelight Marketplace, 212.359.5507,

> Oscar de la Renta: 888.782.6357 or

or hunterboot.com.

oscardelarenta.com.

> Valentino: 212.772.6969 or valentino.com. > Van Cleef & Arpels: 877.VANCLEEF or

> Intermix: 212.741.5075 or intermixonline.com.

> Persol: ILORI, 212.226.8276, or iloristyle.com.

> VBH: 212.717.9800 or vbh-luxury.com.

> Perricone MD: 212.734.2537 or perriconemd.com.

> Vera Wang: 212.628.9898 or

> Prada: 888.977.1900 or prada.com.

verawangonweddings.com.

> Pucci: 212.752.4777 or emiliopucci.com.

> Veronica Beard: Edit, 212.876.1368, or

J > J. Crew: 800.562.0258 or jcrew.com. > J. Mendel: 212.832.5830 or jmendel.com.

vancleef-arpels.com.

veronicabeard.com.

> J. Press: 888.7.JPRESS or jpressonline.com.

> Jimmy Choo: 866.JCHOO.US or jimmychoo.com.

> Ralph Lauren: 888.475.7674 or ralphlauren.com.

> Vilebrequin: 212.546.9220 or vilebrequin.com.

> Judith Leiber: 212.223.2999 or judithleiber.com.

> Rebecca Taylor: 212.967.0801 or rebeccataylor.com.

> Vince: 212.924.0370 or vince.com.

> Robert Marc: 212.242.6668 or robertmarc.com.

> Versace: 212.317.0224 or versace.com.

> Roger Vivier: 212.861.5371 or rogervivier.com.

> Kotur: 866.744.7473 or koturltd.com.

> Ruby Kobo: At Bergdorf Goodman, 212.753.7300, or

> Wempe: 212.397.9000 or wempe.com.

> Kwiat: 212.725.7777 or kwiat.com.

rubykobo.com.

> William Rast: 800.977.9540 or williamrast.com.

> La Prairie: 877.527.7722 or laprairie.com.

> Saks Fifth Avenue: 877.551.SAKS or

> Yves Saint Laurent: 212.832.7100 or ysl.com.

> Leviev: 877.4.LEVIEV or leviev.com.

saksfifthavenue.com.

> Lia Sophia: 800.487.3323 or liasophia.com.

> Salvatore Ferragamo: 866.908.1188 or

> Lilly Pulitzer: 888.PB.LILLY or lillypulitzer.com.

ferragamo.com.

> Zac Posen for Target: 800.591.3869 or target.com.

SUMMER 2010/

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S TA F F S E L E C T I O N S

Favorite Summer Hats 1. Valeria fox, associate art director My crushable straw cowboy hat keeps the sun out of my eyes on camping trips. 2. elizabeth meigher, Q editor My favorite hat from the 2001 World Series—Dad and me, Yankees vs. Diamondbacks, Halloween night, full moon. The Yankees were losing, but Derek Jeter brought them back in the tenth inning! 3. oliver ames, intern There’s nothing hotter this summer than the Census. 4. elizabeth brown, associate editor Despite being a Manhattanite, I’m a loyal Sox fan. 5. s. Christopher meigher III, chairman and c.e.o. An usher cap from the old Yankee Stadium, circa 1970. (Don’t ask, don’t tell!) 6. daniel cappello, fashion editor More than ten years ago, before it ever reached the U.S., I discovered a small bathing suit shop—Vilebrequin—on the Rue d’Antibes in Cannes. I bought this hat to shield my head as I read on the Carlton Beach, and it’s become my beach hat ever since. 7. james stoffel, creative director G’day from Noosa, a wonderful spot on Australia’s sunshine coast. I put on my cap, relax, and admire the waves all day long. 8. rachel corbett, senior editor I intend to get a lot of use out of my favorite sun hat at the beach this summer! 9. georgina schaeffer, executive editor I wear my Hampton & Co. hat for long sandy walks on the beach with my dog, Pepper. The company donates at least ten percent of every purchase to local charities on the East End.

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/SUMMER 2 0 1 0

ESCAPE IN STYLE S H E R L E

WA G N E R

MADISON AVENUE 路 GREENWICH 路 EAST HAMPTON W W W. L I L LY P U L I T Z E R . C O M