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Wide Townhouse w/50 Foot Pool. E 94th. Lavishly remodeled 25 foot, 6 story townhouse steps from Museum Mile. Spacious 5BR home includes a 50 foot lap pool w/solarium roof, elevator, 7 WBFPs, 1000 bottle wine cellar & exotic Ipe wood floors. Co-excl. $24.75M. Web #964630. K.Henckels 212-452-4402/P.Ward 212-585-4534
Historic Sutton Square Townhouse. Built in 1899, this 5 story elevator 10 room tastefully renovated treasure is located in a quintessentially swelligant hideaway. Major rooms overlook the East River & impeccably maintained private gardens. $12M. Web #1071519. Barbara Evans-Butler 212-452-4391/Cindy Kurtin 212-452-4406
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Fabled Prewar Grandeur. Originally 12 rooms in one of Fifth Avenue’s most prestigious white glove buildings with 3 rooms facing Central Park. Private elevator into home with high ceilings & prewar details intact, including 2 WBFPs. 4 MBRs, library, 3.5 new baths & new kitchen. $8.995M. Web #1140008. Inez Wade 452-4439
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Striking Views Inside & Out. Elegant corner 3 bedroom/3.5 bth with over 50 feet of windows providing majestic & unobstructed East River views. Loft-like layout with exquisite architectural detail & design. Prestigious Sutton Place full service co-op. W/D okay. $3.35M. Web #1134188. J.Sacks 212-585-4539/L.Basilice-Hoerrner 452-4435
Olympic Tower Condominium One Bedroom. Fifth Avenue. Renovated to perfection 3.5 rm home with iconic views from Empire State Building to New York Harbor. White glove building with health club & concierge services. Pied-a-terres & corporations welcome. No pets. $2.25M. Web #1150269. B.Evans-Butler 212-452-4391
Very Special on Sutton. This fully renovated & spacious 5 room home is light-filled & welcoming. There is a large living room, dining room, chef’s kitchen with top-of-the-line equipment, 2 MBRs, 2.5 baths & W/D. White glove, highly serviced co-op with gym & garage. Pets not permitted. $1.45M. Web #1104409. Cornelia Eland 452-4384
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Expansive Triple Mint. Prime Soho 2,948 square foot home with a 31x30 foot living room, original columns & restored beams, 11 foot ceilings, wood-burning fireplace, mahogany windows. 700+ square foot MBR suite defies all expectations. Gourmet 13x17 foot eat-in kitch. $4.75M. Web #1156836. Michael Chapman 646-613-2613
Long-Term Value. 2097 square foot, 3BR/3.5 bath with balcony, water views. $2.295M. Web #1152330. 2385 square foot, 4BR/4.5 bath with street & school views. $2.3M. Web #1152331. Elegant full service building with naturally-lit exercise & playroom. Valet parking service. Pets ok. J.Stockwell 646-613-2615/R.Faust 646-613-2618
Prime Tribeca Triple Mint Loft Home. Split 2BR (convertible 3)in full service condo. Features a beautiful open Varenna kitchen, 3 large limestone baths, high ceilings, hardwood floors, W/D, central air conditioning, custom closets & built-in speakers. Garage, private storage & fitness center. $2.625M. Web #1165340. T.Golding 212-452-4394
17 Minetta Street Townhouse. Enchanting 19th Century 3 bedroom, 3 bath home offers a luxuriance of light and an unusual sense of vertical flow promoted by 3 exposures, floor-to-ceiling sliding doors and 2 private outdoor spaces. $5.275M. Web #1098954. Mary Ellen Cashman 646-613-2616
4073 SF Mint Flatiron Condo Loft with 532 SF Terrace. LESS THAN $983 PSF. ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS/BEST BUY! Full floor 40 foot wide loft. 3-4BRs, office, 4.5 bths, fplc, 11 ft ceils. Huge EIK. Glassenclosed terrace w/bamboo plantings visible thru-out. CAC, wideoak floors. Cyber doorman. $4M. Web #1113222. C.Taub 452-4387
Bright and Sunny South-facing Duplex with Terrace. West 23rd Street. Meticulously renovated throughout, this apartment maintains its prewar charm with exposed brick and hardwood floors but has a crisp modern feel in the new kitchen and bath. Washer/dryer. $1.195M. Web #1160939. Kevin Meath 646-613-2735
Chelsea Light and Views. West 20th Street. Sunny with Empire State Building views! Extra-large one bedroom plus home office or guest room. Sunken living & dining room. Designer renovation with top-of-the-line appliances, fixtures & tons of closets. Washer/dryer. Pet friendly. $1.075M. Web #1165171. Lee Ann Jaffee 646-613-2739
Magnificent Live/Work 15,000 Square Foot Corner Building in the Heart of Williamsburg. 3 story brick building converted into an art gallery and 5000 square foot home with 3 exposures and 2 car garage. $4.955M. Web #1129116. Pamela D’Arc 212452-4377/Toni Kousoulas 212-242-3184
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84 112
CONTENTS T he S pring S tyle Issue 142 84
94
by
108
Spring fashion in action at the Neue Galerie.
photographed by
never beene better
108
Jack D eutsch
Patsy Tarr’s unwavering loyalty to the late fashion by
Daniel C appello
Quest best dressed: the list
ode to my mod mother
The stylish women of 2010.
Never was there an era when women looked
better than during my mother’s generation, the 1960s. by Daisy Prince
116 112
crafting beauty
Two new exhibitions at F.I.T. by Georgina Schaeffer
the man behind the curtain
A new photography book goes
behind the scenes of Olivier Theyskens’s runway shows. by Rachel Corbett
120
Daniel Cappello,
designer Geoffrey Beene.
100
what’s neue for spring
backstage pass
From the tents to the after-parties, Quest takes you
to the hottest corners of New York Fashion Week. by Daniel Cappello
146
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CONTENTS 64
C olumns 18
Social Diary
58 Social 60
62
Calendar
shopping
relationships
74
fashion
126 124
128
Our guide to the month’s best benefits, balls, and more.
by
Taki T heodoracopulos
The latest must-haves. by Daniel Cappello and Elizabeth Meigher
Inside Jennifer Garrigues’s Palm Beach bazaar.
by
Georgina Schaeffer
Richard Easton is New York City’s premier matchmaking mogul.
Charlotte Kellogg’s homegrown designs.
Appearances
pets
David Patrick Columbia
Why have modern men become crybabies?
observations Fresh Finds
70
by
Remembering a night with Barbra Streisand at the legendary Arthur’s.
HARRY BENSON
64
72
Chronicles of the finest fêtes in town.
by
E lizabeth B rown
Hilary reports on the sunny days down south.
by
Hilary Geary
Readers’ pets share their favorite toys and treats. By Georgina Schaeffer
snapshot
A peek inside Tender Buttons, the hidden gem of 62nd Street. B y Rebecca Morse
64
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“Winston”
editor’s letter
Dressed, or Well Dressed—in the opinion of others, that is—it is no longer necessary to follow any one set of rules. That said, there may be a couple of standards. When asked what he thought was the secret to living well, the late John Galliher, a fashionable gent who lived a long and almost zen-like life opined in his eighties, “As you get older, it is very important to be clean and smell good.” After that, everything else will follow. Whatever the fashions of the day, there are always exceptions who stand out. Usually these people, male or female, make an art of it. Daniel Cappello in this month’s Quest has written a piece about a New Yorker named Patsy Tarr who had a long client relationship with the redoubtable Geoffrey Beene. Beene was an artist (as well as a clever businessman) but his clothes were not for everyone. It was a snowy Fashion Week last month, but the designs inside the tents looked forward to fall. They required a collaborator: the wearer. This Issue is all about style, and it comes on the Tarr is an active supporter of the arts, particularly dance, heels of New York Fashion Week, which has become a and her costume naturally reflects her relationship to these major business and cultural event. In the midst of this glam- interests. Beene had a natural affinity toward her strong orous whirlwind, Quest sifted through hundreds of photos sense of self. The legendary Babe Paley, although of a different era of stylish New Yorkers over the years and narrowed down a list of the Best Dressed. The subject is, of course, a matter (pre-liberation), and with a different sensibility than Patsy of opinion. What makes it less controversial is the diversity Tarr, also reflected that strong sense of self-styling, and, of course was and still is, considered one of the very bestof opinion that exists today. Fifty years ago, Jacqueline Kennedy became the First dressed women of all time. But then, everything changes. If we consider the differLady of the United States and profoundly influenced contemporary fashion for women. She was not original, but ences in fashion and style between the eighteenth century part of a progression. Nevertheless, she was a good-looking and the nineteenth, and then the nineteenth and the twentiwoman with a slender, athletic figure and a natural taste for eth, we can be assured that great changes will soon be upon us once again. In the meantime, I’ll think of my friend Mr. the elegance, even opulence. Only a decade later, at the beginning of the 1970s, our Galliher, a wise one on the subject of getting along and society underwent huge changes in the liberation of iden- moving forward, which is what it’s all about. u tity. The American woman was emerging as an independent individual, striving toward equality with men. Her wardrobe changed with it. If she wished, she wore pants as often as a man might. She wore skirts as often as she wished, too. David Patrick Columbia During that decade I was in the shmatte business, as a retailer, small-time but occasionally prosperous in a suburban community. I was uneducated but soon learned what was required. Women’s designer sportswear was the caton the cover: egory. Discount was the price. The customer was middle- to Annabel Vartanian photoupper-class. She needed basics to have a decent wardrobe: a graphed in front of Gustav jacket, a blouse, a dress, a skirt, and a pair of pants. Chosen Klimt’s 1907 Portrait of carefully, and adding pieces occasionally from season to Adele Bloch-Bauer I at season, much could be done to keep her well-dressed if she the Neue Galerie. Annabel were good at composing. And if she weren’t so good, she wears a Dennis Basso would still look presentable. silk blouse and lace skirt That was then. Today, the diversity of opinion I referred with appliqués. to has accommodated just about anything under the sun, Produced by Daniel including tattoos. Wherever you look, diversity stands Cappello. Photographed alongside the classics of Chanel, memories of Travis Banton, by Jack Deutsch. and confections inspired by Charles James. So to be Best 1 6 Q UES T
spring 2010 N e w y o r k c i t y / J CREW . CO M
D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A
David Patrick Columbia
NEW YORK SO CIAL DIARY Welcome, springtime, just
around the corner. Those of us New Yorkers who were wishing for a snowy winter got our wish last month as the blizzard of 2010 pushed through and blanketed the Big Town with white for days, especially one long beautiful weekend, a perfect time for
curling up with a good book. Someone sent me a copy of a new book coming out this month from Gotham Books called Dead End Gene Pool by a writer named Wendy Burden. The sepia images on the cover hint at the life inside, or the origins thereof. The Burden name is familiar
to a lot of New Yorkers as a social and philanthropic name. Many know or have heard of the Carter Burden Center for Aging, which we’ve covered in these pages before. Carter Burden’s wives, Amanda Burden, his first wife, and Susan Burden are both positive forces in the community in
their own right. At the beginning of the last century, the Burdens were a well-known family in New York society, the original fortune having come from ironworks in Troy, New York. In 1901 and 1904, two Burdens, James A. Burden and William A. M. Burden, cousins,
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A married granddaughters of Commodore Cornelius Vanderbilt, and so the story begins. There have been several books written in the last couple of years by or about people whose names figured prominently in New York society from the Gilded Age through this past century, including an excellent biography of the old Commodore himself. Eve Pell, whose family’s prominence pre-dated the era by about a century, wrote an affecting memoir called We Used to Own the Bronx (she wasn’t kidding; it was the family farm). Society memoirs are a division of the movie/
politico/celebrity tellall category. With society memoirs, the moment often determines their popularity since society figures are not as well known as film or television “names.” The Astor trial, for example, gave some oomph to the sales of Brooke Astor’s biography as well as to Meryl Gordon’s account of the last days leading up to Astor’s demise and then to subsequent court case over the will. The Vanderbilts, however, have been a boon to the book business throughout the past century. There are two reasons for this. One is that they were the richest family in America. The final tally
of the Commodore’s estate, according to Wendy Burden, was $167 billion in today’s dollars, and his son, William H. Vanderbilt, doubled that before his death ten years later. The second reason is that there were a lot of them. They married into a number of rich and prominent families as well; and they lived high, wide, and handsome, leaving in their wake a gloriously tabloidal trail of marital couplings, de-couplings, highjinks, dissipated lives on the downswing, and fantastic palaces on the way up. Two standouts are Consuelo Vanderbilt Balsan’s classic The Glitter and the Gold, published in the early 1950s, and Barbara
Goldsmith’s biography of Gloria Vanderbilt, Little Gloria… Happy at Last. Gloria Vanderbilt herself has produced several tomes, including more than one memoir. In mid-century—the late ’40s, early ’50s—her cousin, Cornelius Vanderbilt IV did the same. I opened Burden’s memoir not with expectations about its content but because the house on the cover, Florham, in New Jersey, has aroused my curiosity in the past. Florham was a baronial estate and mansion built by a granddaughter of Commodore Vanderbilt, Florence Vanderbilt Twombly and her husband Hamilton. Florham
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is vast in size (it is now the administration building for Fairleigh Dickinson University), and the lady for whom it was built lived there like royalty for more than a half century, until 1952. Mrs. Twombly was the last living grandchild of the Commodore. She was born in 1854 and she died in her ninety-eighth year. She also died the richest of all her siblings, including Cornelius II and Willie K. (who inherited the majority of their father’s fortune) because her husband was a brilliant investor and was well situated to gather pertinent information. Hamilton and Florence 22 QUEST
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Twombly had a daughter (they had four children, only two of whom—both daughters— lived to maturity) who married William A. M. Burden in 1904. The Burdens had two sons, Shirley Carter Burden (father of the aforementioned Carter Burden) and William A. M. Burden Jr., who was the grandfather of the author of this book. Mr. Burden played an important role in his granddaughter’s life, aside from any inheritance she may have received. Her father committed suicide when she was a small child, so she and her siblings were often sent to visit their grandparents.
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The time was the late ’50s, early ’60s. The Burden grandparents lived on Fifth Avenue in grand style, as well as in a country estate in Northeast Harbor, Maine, and a house in Hobe Sound, Florida, with a retinue of servants (which is what they were then called) and secretaries to see that their daily lives ran properly and efficiently, as well as comfortably. They were fifthgeneration and still rich, but thanks to Mrs. Burden’s father, Mr. Twombly. William A. M. Burden (Jr.) was a lifelong collector of “modern art,” and president of the Museum of Modern Art. He and his wife lived in
a large apartment that was designed for them by Philip Johnson (his only apartment commission) at 820 Fifth Avenue. Shortly after the beginning of the book laying out the characters, Wendy Burden’s father dies and she and her brothers are sent off to stay with grandmother and grandfather. Mr. and Mrs. Burden led very ordered and old-fashioned lives of luxurious abundance. The author recalls how once Mr. Burden, who pretty much planned the menu for their dinners, called his secretary, Miss Pou, and had the following conversation: “Miss Pou, the president of
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A M.I.T. is arriving tomorrow at 3 p.m. and I would like to serve grouse for dinner.” “Certainly sir. Though I believe it may be a bit early...” “Miss Pou. My food calendar states that mid-August is the season for grouse, so I am certain you’ll find a resource.” “Yes, Mr. Burden. I suppose I can call Scotland.” “Marvelous. Catch the 8:30 flight. Goodbye.” And so they were delivered. Oh, also, he specified “female” grouses. Better tasting. Now, oddly enough, Dead End Gene Pool is not about that. Or even about the behind-the-scenes of the world that is still thought of as “society” in America, the
departure of which is still lamented. But Ms. Burden is no lamenter. Furthermore, she is so funny that I did not expect to find myself immersed in this woman’s story (of her childhood!) and suddenly read something that made me laugh out loud. Guffaw, is more like it. So that I’d have to stop and pull myself together again before I could get back to reading. Out of nowhere, this would happen again and again. The girl, this brat (her grandparents must have been saints to endure her rigorous path of life discovery), is just hilarious. Wendy Burden is an artist, a writer, and a contemporary American woman. I wouldn’t
say she’s a humorist as much as she’s comic. While telling us what is in many ways a bittersweet story of a life, of lives, of a family, of families, she demonstrates just how different the rich are from you and I. What we learn is that Ernest Hemingway mainly got it right in that famous exchange with F. Scott Fitzgerald: “they have more money.” I couldn’t put it down. First, I am almost compulsively interested in family imprints and the development of personality. Second, Burden is such a fascinating character to follow (as are her family members). The voice is clear. She’s very, very smart, extremely clever, rather
morbid from early on, and a teller of an excellent tale about what life was like behind those grand façades of the filthy rich. (In a word, it was surreal.) I was reminded of Brooke Hayward’s 1977 memoir Haywire, which brought the private lives of show-business elites (movie stars, producers, agents) into the realm of reality. An earlier Vanderbilt— Consuelo—broke ground with her memoir but she was the child of Victorians and was in her seventies when she wrote her book. Wendy Burden is a late boomer of the let-it-all-hang-out age. And she does. She really does. So much so that, as I write this, I find myself laughing at the
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A T i f fa n y & C o . H o st e d “A S pa r k l i n g E v e n i n g ” C e l e b r at i n g the sevent y-fifth Anniversary of the Frick Collection
Alexis Light
memory of reading her book. You will too. The month just past: Early on was the eighty-seventh birthday of that Grande Dame of Dish Liz Smith. The number is correct but the concept has wandered so far from reality for her that it’s actually funny. She’s younger today than I was at forty, or even thirty, and hipper than any twenty-yearold I’ve ever met. The little girl from Texas who stepped off the bus here in Manhattan in 1949, after graduating from the University of Texas journalism school, has seen it all, done it all, written about it all, and lived to tell about it all. One 26 QUEST
Megan Kultgen, Caitlin Davies and Sean Dailey
day I lunched with her and Charlotte and Anne Ford at the Four Seasons, and she’s the most fun date in town. On the night of her birthday, Liz spent the evening with the entire wowOwow.com gang at the Café Carlyle, taking in the peerless performance of her friend Elaine Stritch, who is also celebrating her birthday on this day. Elaine’s just a kid, however; she’s eighty-four. The secret of eternal youth seems to be simple: work for a living and love it. You’ll just get better as you go along. So, happy birthday Liz and many thanks for all the wonderful things you’ve done for New York, your busloads
Lydia Fenet
Ed Swenson and Liz Walker
of friends, and for literacy in America. The social calendar. The book party. Joan Rivers hosted a reception at her sumptuous east-side duplex for her daughter, Melissa Rivers, and Melissa’s new book, Red Carpet Ready: Secrets for Making the Most of Any Moment You’re in the Spotlight, which she wrote with Tim Vandehey. This was a good party. I knew it would be because Joan is a gracious and welcoming hostess, and her digs are spacious, rarefied, and glamorous. For a little New York history, Joan lives in an architecturally famous building that was
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designed and built in 1903 for Alice and John Drexel by Horace Trumbauer, who built that famous E.T. Stotesbury house, Whitemarsh Hall, outside of Philadelphia. Stotesbury started out in business working for Drexel’s father, Anthony J. Drexel. Young Drexel didn’t see eye to eye with the up-and-coming E.T. Stotesbury, and at the elder Drexel’s suggestion, he left the business and moved to New York. Coming from Philadelphia, Mrs. Drexel especially wanted to impress New Yorkers with her house. And she did, as well as no doubt impressing the succeeding tenants who
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came after her, such as Joan Rivers, a century later. (Ernest Hemingway kept a pied-àterre in the building also.) Joan Rivers off-camera is slightly more subdued, although still effusive and lovely as a hostess. Just below the surface of all that brassy, zany yada-yada lies a refined, intelligent, hard-working woman and a great friend. And Melissa is her mother’s daughter, possessing many of the same qualities. Melissa’s book is not so much about the spotlight, but about what she’s learned from her ma. Joan’s apartment was packed when I arrived. Several 28 QUEST
Robin Duke
Harris Schrank, Michael Barberir and Faith Childs
waiters were passing the hors d’oeuvres and champagne, white wine, and sparkling water. Joan was making her way around the room in diamonds and pearls and black pailetted pajamas, seeing that guests were meeting one another. I found myself watching Wendy Williams, as bubbly as a glass of champagne herself, and a big, tall, commanding presence with a warm smile for everyone. She and Rosanna Scotto were having a catch-up. Commissioner Bill Bratton and Rikki Klieman were there, having recently arrived back in New York to live fulltime after seven years in Los Angeles (their house in Beechwood
Canyon is “on the market.”) They’re glad to be back: Rikki likes the New York walking. Around the room: Deborah Norville, Robin Quivers, Rex Reed, Crystal Hunt, Hoda Kotb, Bernadette Peters, Nancy Collins, Megan Meany, Sara Gore, Scott Currie, Debbie Bancroft, and Tiffany Dubin. This was one of those cocktail parties where, two hours in, nobody looked close to leaving. A good time at Joan’s, a good time for Melissa. I think I was one of the first to leave at about 8:15. I had to get up to Deborah Buck’s Buck House at 93rd Street and Madison Avenue, where she
Elizabeth Dewberry and Ted Turner
Liz Hinden, Cleopatra Bauduy and Laura Miller
and Susan Cohn Rockefeller were launching RocknRola Jewelry with a special sale for Valentine’s Day. It was special because all of the proceeds from the pieces (on sale for $100 each) were going to Oceana, an ocean-advocacy organization. Ocean advocacy. Oceana was established in 2001 by the Pew Charitable Trusts, the Oak Foundation, the Marisla Foundation, the Turner Foundation, and the Rockefeller Brothers Fund. It was these foundations that, in 1999, commissioned a study that discovered that less than one-half of one percent of all resources spent by non-
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A profit environmental groups in the U.S. went to ocean advocacy. Their mission is to protect and restore the world’s oceans. Global warming aside—no matter what you think of it—we’re losing the ocean’s marine life. Without making serious changes, the human race is finished, and not within thousands of years or even hundreds of years. The time has come. If this sounds extreme, consider that the human population has, in the last few decades, overfished to the point in which marine life can’t reproduce fast enough to replenish itself, and the pollution of the ocean is thwarting what replenishing
is going on. One day soon, this will be everybody’s business. It’s called survival, and we’re in it together no matter one’s religious beliefs, politics, or nationality. This night’s event was to remind and to raise money to expand Oceana’s work. RocknRola was formed by Susan Cohn Rockefeller (her husband, David Rockefeller, Jr., is actively involved with Oceana) and Carola Mack to inspire people to think about the state of our planet and the state of their hearts. Susan is also the chairwoman for Oceana’s Ocean Council. Each piece of jewelry reflects their deep commitment to nature and the creativity it inspires.
All of the materials used in the jewelry are sustainable and sourced through an environmental lens. Last night, they sold out. The charity gala. One night at Cipriani 42nd Street, the International Women’s Health Coalition honored Ted Turner and Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu at their 2010 Gala for the “contributions they made towards making a just and healthy life a reality for women and girls worldwide.” Archbishop Tutu was not in attendance. The I.W.H.C. is well known within the confines of its interests, and its influence is global. Yet, at the same time, the general population
has almost no awareness of its existence, let alone awareness of the power of its influence. Maria Hinojosa, a PBS senior correspondent who was the evening’s emcee, alluded to that disconnect in explaining how her mother, who was very active in helping abused women, did not like to think of herself as a feminist, but she was. Nevertheless, the turnout and those attending attest to the organization’s power. Ted Turner, as the world knows, has decided to use his great fortune to support organizations such as I.W.H.C. The guest list had a greater percentage of women than men, but I’d bet a lot of the men there were major
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supporters, not only in terms of encouragement, but in terms of writing checks. The I.W.H.C. is intent on making every woman’s right to a just and healthy life a reality. In the U.S., a lot of us take feminism for granted because we’ve been educated and conditioned to it, especially since the women’s movement of the 1960s and ’70s. (That said, we’ve still got a long way to go.) However, elsewhere, especially in the Middle East, Asia, and the sub-Saharan countries, women and girls are non-entities, despite their disproportionate contribution to daily life. The I.W.H.C. shapes 32 QUEST
Carol and Jim Bradbeer
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international policy and budgets and builds local capacity for women’s health and human rights. That begins with education, teaching women to think outside of the box of their societal confinements. The I.W.H.C. is out to change thinking, redirect funding, and motivate action by people and institutions that can secure rights and health for women and girls. This requires a strategy in which we empower local organizations, mobilize women and young people to act, inform powerbrokers and advocates for women in nations’ capitals and the U.N. They are working to end discrimination, sexual
Therese Mersentes, Bill and Nancy Rollnick, Bonnie McElveen-Hunter and Bobby Leidy
coercion, and violence against women and girls, and to ensure access to health services and information. The night’s guests included Martha Stewart, Christy Turlington, Marnie Pillsbury, Veronique and Bob Pittman, Ann and Thomas Unterberg, Elaine and James Wolfensohn, Francine LeFrak, Alexandra Penney and Dennis Ashbaugh, Diana Taylor, who chaired the evening, Shelly Lazarus, the president and CEO of Ogilvy & Mather, Michael Oppenheimer, Timothy and Wren Wirth, and Paul Fribourg. The Memorial Service. One Thursday at 3:30 p.m. at the
Frank E. Campbell Funeral Home on Madison Avenue, there was a memorial service for David Brown, the film producer and husband of Helen Gurley Brown, who died the previous Monday at about 3 a.m. David was ninetythree and had been ailing for the past year or so. He died of kidney failure. David was the sort of man who seemed philosophical about fate, although he had a long life of good health and used his time optimally, enjoying working at his chosen interests and assisting his wife with hers. At the service both Richard Zanuck, his longtime production partner,
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A and Frank Bennack, vice chairman and president of the Hearst Corporation, delivered eulogies. Both Bennack and Zanuck ended with David’s conclusion of a success: “to live a long life and die in your sleep.” Done. Someone asked me afterwards if the memorial was a sad one. It was not. That was partly because of David’s earlier observation: he’d lived a long life and did indeed die in his sleep. However, it was also not a sad one because the remembrances (which included those of his longtime assistant and a longtime family friend of his and Helen’s) were full of funny anecdotes that characterized not only
his life, but also his personal enjoyment of life. Most of the laughs had something to do with sex. All the eyes in the room were on his new widow, his beloved Helen, who was enjoying the memories as much as the rest of us. What was unique about their marriage was that it seemed integrated entirely into their professional lives. Frank Bennack recalled David once saying that when he went to a premiere by himself, there were no paparazzi looking to photograph him, but when he went with Helen, there was a bank of them wanting her picture. David loved that. They were complete partners. Her first best-selling book was
his idea. Her transformation of Cosmopolitan from the dying magazine of another era into the biggest-selling title in the history of Hearst was also his idea. Together and separately they were enormously successful in their businesses. Bennack also reported that at home, Helen always arose first in the morning and did her exercises. Then when David got up later, his exercise was weighing himself, which he’d report to Helen: “Same as yesterday.” Then she’d make him his breakfast of scrambled eggs and toast, prune juice, and coffee. Then the two would start their day. He’d go to
his office and she’d go to hers (Helen always took the bus to and from home—she was famously thrifty and liked being close to her readership in life). In an interview with Esquire David once said, “Work yourself to death. It’s the only way to live.” Indeed, he was living (and dying) proof. Those of us who knew him were blessed, but millions and millions of others who never knew him, and most of whom didn’t even know his name, were also blessed to have been graced by that quick, long life. My friend Jesse Kornbluth reported to me later that upon arriving a few minutes late for the start of the service,
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A I’d missed Richard Zanuck’s remarks that David had “appeared” to him the night before last. “I have good news and good news,” he said David had said to him. “The first: I’m okay. The second: I can look right at everyone I love.” Such reports fascinate me. I have never personally experienced such a thing. Although nine years ago when my friend Judy Green (who was also a friend of David and Helen) died late in the night on September 14, 2001, another mutual friend told me that she had been awakened from her sleep in the middle of the night by a cold breeze. At the foot of her bed was Judy, who said to her: “Goodbye sweet
friend,” and then the image disappeared. Another book party. One night Judy Licht and Jerry della Femina had one at their Upper East Side townhouse for their friend Dr. Gerald Imber, who is considered one of the top three plastic surgeons in New York. I know that he got into his line of work because one day, when he was a young resident working in a hospital in California, the doctor he was working under asked him if he’d ever considered surgery. He advised Imber to look into it because he had “very talented hands.” Because he respected this particular doctor, he took his advice, followed through, and a distinguished medical
career was born. When I learned that he’d written a book, I assumed that it had something to do with cosmetic surgery. I was wrong. The book is titled Genius On the Edge: The Bizarre double Life of Dr. William Stewart Halsted. Dr. Halsted, who was born in 1852, was one of the early staff members of Johns Hopkins Hospital (which had been planned with a grant from Mr. Johns Hopkins in 1873, but did not open until 1889, with the medical school coming four years later in 1893). In 1882, at age thirty, he performed a surgery (on a kitchen table) on a jaundiced
seventy-year-old woman, having determined that she had an infection of the gallbladder and had gallstones. The emergency surgery was successful—the first known operation to remove gallstones—and his mother’s life was saved. When he was thirty-two, following the experiments of Sigmund Freud with an exciting new drug, Cocaine alkaloid, and its possibilities as an anesthetic, he learned to produce a reliable dental anesthesia and performed minor surgeries using cocaine as a local anesthesia. He also tried morphine, then used to relieve anxiety, nervousness and sleeplessness, and as
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an antidote to alcoholism. These experiments also left him addicted to both drugs. When he was thirty-four, he was invited to work at Johns Hopkins Medical School in Baltimore and he was soon named chief of surgery. At Johns Hopkins Dr. Halsted instituted the first residency training program for surgeons. He was the first to use rubber gloves and pioneered aseptic surgery. He devised the first successful hernia repair and was the first doctor to perform a radical mastectomy. He also was mentor to one of his residents, Dr. Harvey Cushing, the father of American neurosurgery 38 QUEST
(and the father of Babe Paley, Minnie, the second Mrs. Vincent Astor, and Betsey, who was married to James Roosevelt and then John Hay Whitney, and a grandfather of New York’s Amanda Burden). Dr. Halsted remained addicted to cocaine and morphine for the rest of his life while maintaining a distinguished medical practice. Gerry Imber shows how Dr. Halsted, in a time when sanitary practices were virtually unknown, pioneered scrub suits and sterile rubber gloves in his operating room, made local and spinal anesthesia a reality, and was a
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pioneering vascular surgeon and endocrine surgeon. “…Forbidding and nurturing; rigid, proper, and secretive; compulsive and negligent, stimulating and reclusive, addicted and abstemious, oblivious and solicitous…If a single person can be considered the father of modern surgery, the only contender is William Stewart Halsted,” Imber writes of the man who was driven by both humanitarian and selfdestructive instincts, and left a remarkable legacy. I learned all this from going to a book party for what I imagined would be a book on cosmetic surgery.
David Lauren
Never assume. Then, in the second week of the month, the snow came down and the town stopped. We had twelve solid hours of the white stuff. Schools were closed, businesses shuttered, doctors closed their offices, and people stocked up at the grocers as if they were hunkering down for days. The weatherman was calling it the “second blizzard of 2010” although it wasn’t nearly as “crippling” as blizzards go. Nevertheless, it was a nice day off for a lot of New Yorkers who found it easy to slow down a bit and take it easy. That night I went to Tom and Diahn McGrath’s for a
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A dinner benefiting the PEN American Center. There were several of these dinners around town. The original guest list was for twenty people for a donation to the cause. Each dinner featured an author of a recently published book. The McGraths’s guest was Hannah Pakula who recently published a biography of Madame Chiang Kai-shek called The Last Empress. These dinners are a real New York privilege. The guest list was made up of interested contributors who were curious to know the whats and hows of a writer. Pakula’s editor, the esteemed Alice Mayhew was present. There were sixteen of us at one long table (there
were a couple of cancellations). After the first course, Tom McGrath introduced the author and asked her how she came to write this book, which took eight years of research and writing. Pakula had written two best-selling biographies, one of Queen Marie of Romania (a grand daughter of Queen Victoria) and Victoria, Dowager Empress of Germany (the eldest daughter of Queen Victoria and the mother of Kaiser Wilhelm). She explained how when she began her research, she soon learned that the Chinese, unlike the Westerners, had no reverence for historical family records, and that discovering
this information was not easy. Nevertheless, she held the table spellbound with her discoveries about this amazing woman who lived out the last half of her life in New York and died, at 106, in 2003, living at 10 Gracie Square, right around the corner from this writer (who used to see her when she went out on her thrice-weekly rides around town—she liked visiting Grant’s Tomb). Pakula’s stories about Madame Chiang Kai-shek and her relationships with Western leaders, like Eleanor and Franklin Roosevelt and Wendell Willkie, led to a wider discussion about China today and its relationship to the U.S. There were more questions
than answers, but it was a very stimulating dinner, as it usually is at the McGraths’s table. Dinner ended at about 10:30 p.m. I got a ride over to East End Avenue with some neighbors who were at the dinner and whom I hadn’t met before, who lived three blocks south of me. Then, after taking the dogs for their late night constitutional, I changed into something more casual and went over to Elaine’s, where the lady herself was celebrating her eighty-first birthday. Elaine’s was packed: the tables were full, the bar full, all of old friends, new friends, regulars, and the scribe set. As I’ve written before, Elaine’s is like a club in that people come
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Parker Ladd, Sally Richardson and Arnold Scaasi 40 QUEST
Iris and Carl Apfel
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for the fare, the drinks, and the talk, and they settle in for hours with people coming and going, tables taking on new guests to fill in for the earlyrisers who’ve left by 11. And in the middle of it all was Elaine herself—unimpressed by the day—enjoying the company of her guests. The next night was the Chado Ralph Rucci collection showing at Ralph Rucci’s studio on Broadway and Spring. This was a new venue for him, having shown in the Bryant Park tents for the past few years. The studio had been set up like a smaller tent runway, all white with mirrors. It was like Hollywood in the 42 QUEST
Donna Karan and Ellen Barkin
Ashley Lloret, Omeed Malik and Susan Woo
1930s, Van Nest Polglase at RKO working on the Astaire-Rogers pictures. Real glamour. The show was called for 7 p.m. Casey Ribicoff was already there when I arrived. Ribicoff’s sense of style involves drama, beauty, impeccability, glamour, and pleasure. She wears a lot of Ralph Rucci’s clothes and, despite the classic signature of his designs, they look like her clothes, not his. She was with Robert Couturier, the interior designer. Next to him was the very pretty editor-in-chief of Elle Décor, Margaret Russell, next to the beautiful Katherine Bryan. Next to Bryan was Anne Prevost, in from
Mitchell Lichtenstein and Joyce Pierpoline
Amanda Ross and Daniel Benedict
London with her former Finch classmate, my beautiful friend Sassy Johnson, who back in the day got Halston to give the young budding designer Rucci his first big job in the business. Susan Gutfreund was there, as was Deeda and Bill Blair, Martha Stewart, and Melva Bucksbaum and Ray Learsy. Next to them I saw Fran Lebowitz, Whoopi Goldberg, and His Nibs André Leon Talley. Ralph Rucci is the Crown Prince of American readyto-wear couture, out of the fashion stream of Mainbocher, Norell, Galanos, Halston, Blass, and Beene. February 15, 2010. A
gray weekend in New York, snowless although the weatherman says more is coming in the next day or two. It’s a three-days weekend (Presidents Day) for many and the city in my part of town was quiet(er). The movie luncheon. Hostess with the Mostest Peggy Siegal was down at Michael’s at a luncheon for James Cameron, the filmmaker whose latest film, Avatar, is the largest grossing film in history. The film received nine Academy-Award nominations. There were about forty guests seated at one long table in the middle of the front room and four or five others on the side.
Pat r i c k M c M u ll a n
Andrew Saffir and Gabby Karan de Felice
Manhattan ProPerties
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770 PARK AVENUE: Stunning and spectacularly renovated 11-room Rosario Candela duplex. Sun-flooded and grandly scaled rooms. A sweeping staircase leads to 3 bedrooms. $21,000,000. WEB: Q0016895 S. Boardman, 212.606.7611
PIERRE HOTEL: Grand 25th floor tower pre-war co-op with all major rooms facing Central Park. 3 bedrooms, 3½ baths, 3 dramatic exposures. Luxury hotel services. $12,900,000. WEB: Q0016644. R. Pinkwater, 212.606.7718
830 PARK AVENUE: Distinguished pre-war 9-room duplex with soaring ceilings, 2 wood burning fireplaces, 60 ft. double parlor, 3 bedrooms, 4 baths. $8,900,000. WEB: Q0016916. L. Kelly, 212.606.7724, M. Smith, 212.606.7683
ONE BEACON COURT: Spectacular 3-bedroom condo with unobstructed and dramatic views of the Manhattan skyline and Central Park. $8,900,000. WEB: Q0016690. Serena Boardman, 212.606.7611, R. Golubock, 212.606.7704
EAST 72ND STREET PENTHOUSE: 9-room, triple mint, fully customized condo. Meticulously designed by D’Aquino Monaco. Features 4 bedrooms, 3½ baths, 2 gas fireplaces. $6,500,000. WEB: Q0016883. Debra Peltz, 212.606.7635
MODERN MASTERPIECE: Palatial 14-room on high floor in acclaimed United Nations Plaza. Spectacular East River and skyline views. 5 bedrooms. New Price. $4,995,000. WEB: Q0015820. Nikki Field, 212.606.7669
HERITAGE CONDO: 240 Riverside Boulevard. Rare opportunity to own a very special “B” line home. Southwest corner, 3 bedrooms, 3 baths and direct river views. $4,750,000. WEB: Q0016898. E. Malley, 212.606.7625
1130 PARK AVENUE: Elegant 7-room pre-war co-op on high floor with high ceilings, unbelievable views, large windows, fireplace. 3 bedrooms, 3 baths. $4,500,000. WEB: Q0016681. Leila C. Stone, 212.606.7663
SUPER CHIC LOFT: Triple mint “Classic 6.” Striking contemporary openness in an elegant pre-war setting. Smoke glass walls, sleek office and kitchen. $3,200,000. WEB: Q0016880. Pierrette Hogan, 212.606.7767
115 CENTRAL PARK WEST: Incredible opportunity for style and vision. 2,000± sq. ft., 2 bedrooms, 2 baths, large formal dining room. Extremely well-priced. $2,495,000. WEB: Q0016904. Austin Schuster, 212.606.7797
MODERN LUXURY: Magnificent new spacious condo with wrap-around floor-to-ceiling windows, light and bright, 2 bedrooms, 2 baths, custom closets. $1,795,000. WEB: Q0016889. Oliver Brown, 212.606.7714
575 PARK AVENUE: Elegant 2-bedroom, 2-bath facing Park Avenue on the 4th floor. Great light. Maintenance includes twice a day maid service. $1,075,000. WEB: Q0016500. Louise Beit, 212.606.7703
east Manhattan Brokerage I sothebyshomes.com/nyc 38 EAST 61ST STREET, NEW YoRk, NY 10065 T 212.606.7660 Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc., is owned and operated by NRT LLC. Les Bords de l’Epte a Giverny, used with permission.
D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A A f r i c a Fo u n d at i o n ’ s “ C e l e b r at e A f r i c a” at t h e T h e H a r o l d P r at t H o u s e
Catherine Malandrino and Michele Gradin
Cameron was there at Table One, along with Les Moonves, Lyor Cohen, George Stevens, Jr., Jean Doumanian, Jane Rosenthal, Jacqui Safra, John Esposito, and probably some else I’ve left out. Peggy Siegal lunches aside, Michael’s was doing brisk luncheon business that day with many of the likely suspects, such as Matt Blank with Rob Tobey, the Imberdella Femina-GreenfieldBergman-Kramer lunchers (minus Mr. Kramer), Charlie Schieps with this writer, Herb Allen III, Anne Keating with Alexandra Tower, Bob Friedman, Joan Gelman and Susan Gallin, John Sykes, 44 QUEST
Ivanka Trump and Vicky Ward
Julie Macklowe, Lesley Schulhof and Flo Fulton
Paula Wagner, Wayne Kabak, Jim Abernathy, Gerry Byrne, Randy Jones with George Green, Dr. Ruth, Kathy Lacey, Maurie Perl, Suzi Halpin, Nick Verbitsky, and scores more just like ‘em. The society dinner. That night over at the Carlyle, Peggy gave a dinner for sixty for Annabel and William Astor a.k.a Viscount and Vicountess Astor. He is the fourth Viscount. The first, also named William Waldorf, was the nephew of the Mrs. Astor back in the 1890s. He loathed his aunt Lina so much that he tore down his brownstone mansion on the corner of 33rd and Fifth and put up
the Waldorf Hotel so that Auntie Lina could carry on her esteemed social position living next door to a hotel—very down-market in those days. William Waldorf then moved to England where he outdid all the American Astors and eventually became Viscount Astor, and now, his great-great-grandson is the toast of the town, fêted by Peggy Siegal, the twenty-first century version of the Mrs. Astor, or something along those lines. It was an eclectic guest list, from all walks of media, show business, society, and occasional tomfoolery, a group that could only be assembled
Jenny Kennedy and Nina Griscom
Sveva Gallman and Kuki Gallman
in New York, and only by a New York sensibility. There was designer/retailer Tory Burch with Lyor Cohen, head of Warner Music Group; novelist Ariadne Calvo-Platero and Italian financial journalist Mario Calvo-Platero; hotelier Andre Balazs; media investor Geoffrey Leeds; writer/social historian and senior member of the Warhol establishment, Bob Colacello; film producer Jean Doumanian and her businessman husband Jaqui Safra; international interior designer Mica Ertegun; industrialist David Koch and his wife, Julia; Cathy Graham, wife of theatrical producer and professor Stephen Graham of
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A the Washington Post family; Sandy Lerner, who, with her now ex-husband, founded Cisco Systems and resides on several thousand acres in Upperville, Virginia, and on a property outside of Bath, England; social hostess and New York real-estate heiress Louise Grunwald; private investor Avie Mortimer and his wife, Gigi; Giants owner Woody Johnson; socialite Marjorie Gubelmann; Susan and John Hess of Hess Oil; Lynn Wyatt, that little ole Texas girl, fashion acolyte, and international hostess; Jay McInerney and Anne Hearst; Barbara Walters; Tobias Meyer of Sotheby’s and his partner, art adviser Mark Fletcher; former television newswoman,
now full-time student Perri Peltz; film producer Jane Rosenthal; Susan Gutfreund; New York Times editor Stefano Tonchi; socialite Allison Sarofim; Mort Zuckerman; Men’s Health editor Dave Zinczenko; American Museum of Natural History executive Peter Lyden; Bob Pittman;Vanity Fair’s Vicky Ward and her businessman husband Matt Doull; international entrepreneur Dan Abrams; fashion designer Zac Posen; Euan Rellie and Lucy Sykes, a children’s clothing designer; interior designer Celerie Kemble and her husband, hedge-fund investor Boykin Curry; Anne Prevost, an American living in London; Lee Radziwill; the
International Herald Tribune’s Suzy Menkes; Brad Comisar; and Katie Couric. The guests of honor had a lot of American friends. Bill Astor, as he is known among his friends, holds an influential position in the House of Lords and is very active behind the scenes in British politics. Annabel Astor has a well-known home furnishings design business in England called OKA Direct. Her daughter, Samantha, by her first (brief) marriage is the wife of British Tory party leader David Cameron, who many believe will be the next Prime Minister. Mr. and Mrs. Astor are very un-stuffy in their graciousness, and quite friendly folk. Both
seem to be people with many interests and very congenial company, far from the image that the Americans have of the family whose great fortune was made in New York real estate (by buying low and never selling) in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. The American branch of the name died with Vincent Astor (also named William V.), who had no children and also discontinued the family financial tradition of primogeniture. Vincent’s father’s cousin, Waldorf, who moved to England, flourished away from his homeland, and made a place for himself and his descendents in British publishing and politics where they remain influential in England today. u
T h e C e n t r a l Pa r k C o n s e r v a n c y ’ s t h i r t i e t h a n n i v e r s a r y g a l a at t h e pa r k ’ s b o at h o u s e
Gillian and Sylvester Miniter 46 QUEST
Douglas Blonsky
Joseph Pinto and Elizabeth Barlow Rogers
Gordon Davis
Dick Gilder
Pat r i c k MCM u ll a n
Mayor Michael Bloomberg
RO G E R E R I C K S O N
O U T S TA N D I N G O P P O RT U N I T I E S
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845 UNITED NATIONS PLAZA: INVESTMENT. Triple mint 3 bedroom with high rental tenant thru April 30, 2011. Expansive 2,854± sq ft, 6 rooms, amazing views. $4,450,000. WEB: Q0016668.
TERRACE AND RIVER VIEWS: NEW. Huge loft-like 3-bedroom plus maid’s with views and wrap terrace in triple mint condition. 3700± sq ft interior, 520± sq ft terrace. $4,950,000. WEB: Q0016952.
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EAST SIDE MANHATTAN BROKERAGE I sothebyshomes.com/nyc 38 EAST 61ST STREET NEW YORK, NY 10065 T 212.606.7660 F 212.606.7661 ROGER ERICKSON SENIOR MANAGING DIRECTOR I T 212.606.7612 I www.roger-erickson.com Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc. is owned and operated by NRT LLC. Sotheby’s International Realty® is a registered trademark.
D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A T h e MUSEUM OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK ’ s t w e n t y - f i f t h a n n u a l w i n t e r b a l l
Blair Husain and Sarah Peters
Susan Henshaw Jones, Heather Mnuchin, Mark Gilbertson and Burwell Schorr
Jill Roosevelt and Tara Rockefeller 48 QUEST
Imogen Lloyd Webber and Jeffrey Sharp
Heather Leeds and Leslie Godridge
Marjorie Gubelmann and Scott Currie
Elizabeth Grimaldi
Marisa Brown
Michelle Smith
PAt r i c k M c M u ll a n
Alison Minton and Chris Leasure
PHILANTHROPY Has Always Been
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DONATE women’s and men’s designer fashions, accessories, footwear and jewelry — and receive a tax deduction. For free pick-up service, call (212) 821-9300. SHOP smart and be the first to get one-of-a-kind designer and vintage pieces for a song! Save these POSH -est dates: ©
Benefit Dinner May 11, 2010 honoring legendary designer Carolina Herrera and founder of 1stdibs Michael Bruno Benefit Preview Sale May 12, 2010 Public Sale May 13 – 16, 2010 www.poshsale.org Call (212) 821-9428 for information about the dinner and preview FASHIONABLE PHILANTHROPY® All proceeds benefit Dedicated to fighting vision loss through prevention, treatment and empowerment
D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A K r i s ta B a r d ’ s o p e n i n g at W a l ly F i n d l a y g a l l e r i e s b e n e f i t e d H o p e f o r D e p r e s s i o n
Avery Travis and Jessica Cadwell
Alberto Mejia
Denis and Annabelle Coleman with Muffy and Don Miller
Wilbur Ross, Martin Gruss and Howard Cox 50 QUEST
Anastasia Coleman and Blair Farkas
Mike and Ginger Feuer
Hilary Geary
Lori and Bruce Gendleman
Mai Hallingby, Arlene Dahl and Catherine Saxton
lu c i e n c a p e h a rt
Krista Bard, Jimmy Bornyack and Audrey Gruss
DESIGN . CONSTRUCTION . FURNISHINGS
D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A t h e Yo u n g F e l l o w s “ D i a mo n d D ec o B a l l ” at T h e F r i c k C o l l ec t i o n
Andrew and Zibby Right, Stephen and Christine Schwarzman and Colin Bailey
Kim Hicks and Jay Diamond 52 QUEST
Jennifer Argenti and Clare McKeon
Annika Connor and Evan Geoffroy
Lauren Remington Platt
Laura Zukerman and Tom Trowbridge
Leora Kadish and Joshua Stein
Christopher Schumacher and Kate Shelter
Phillip Thomas and Carson Elias
C h r i s t i n e A . B u t le r , J o h n C a l a b r e s e
Austin Scarlett and Kelsea Scarlett
2010
D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A t h e pa l m b e ac h p r e s e r vat i o n fo u n d at i o n ’ s a n n ua l d i n n e r d a n c e at t h e b r e a k e r s
Leonard and Evelyn Lauder
Abigail Kuklis and Scott Snyder
Bob and Suzanne Wright
The tables set for dinner
John Mashek with Michele and Howard Kessler 54 QUEST
Nancy Corzine
Roberto and Joanne de Guardiola
Pauline Pitt
lu c i e n c a p e h a rt
Jamee and Peter Gregory
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A L e n ox h i l l n e i g h b o r h o o d h o u s e ’ s “ s h a l l w e d a n c e ” pa r t y at t h e a n a t z a r e v g a l l e r y
Patrick Lonn, Virginia Pitman and L’Olivier Giugni
Valerie Onor, Gillian Browder and Robin Sanders
Janice Langrall and Dennis Rolland 56 QUEST
Kathy Angele and Lorne Weil
Diana Quasha with Tom and Ingrid Edelman
Margery and Steve Riker
Barbara Regna, Alex Donner and Valerie Lettan
Nancy Baker and Sydney Shuman
Juliet Jansen and Kelly Mallon
pat r i c k m c m u ll a n
Christopher Spitzmiller
D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A
CALENDAR
March
On March 24th, the Center for Creative Education will host “Drawn to Learn” at 11:30 a.m. at a private residence. The event supports the Center for Creative Education’s mission of using the arts to enrich and transform children’s educational experiences. For more information, call 561.805.9927.
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5
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The School of American Ballet will host the Winter Ball at 7 p.m. at the David H. Koch Theater. The event will feature a performance by the advanced students. For more information, call 212.769.6610.
The Preservation Foundation of Palm Beach will host its annual dinner dance at The Breakers. For more information, call 561.832.0731.
The Boys and Girls Clubs of Palm Beach County will hold its ninth annual Barefoot on the Beach event at The Breakers. For more information, call 561.683.3287.
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Gotham flavors
Winter wonderland
Wine and dine
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“Poetry of Form,” a collection by Russian sculptor Dimitry Gerrman, will be on view at Wally Findlay Galleries New York at 124 East 57th Street. For more information, call 212.421.5390.
The Gay Men’s Health Crisis will hold SAVOR: A Culinary Experience at 7 p.m. at Gotham Hall. The event will be chaired by Ted Allen of The Food Network’s “Chopped” and will feature a culinary relay. For more information, call 212.829.0002.
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9
The St. Jude’s Children’s Research Hospital will hold its second annual dinner at 7 p.m. at Club Colette. A faculty member will be seated at each table to share experiences and answer questions about St. Jude’s. For more information, call 800.278.3383.
The Associates Committee of the Society of Memorial SloanKettering Cancer Center will host its nineteenth annual Bunny Hop event at 6 p.m. at FAO Schwarz. The event will be sponsored by Papo d’Anjo. For more information, call 212.639.7389.
free form
St. Jude’s soiree
58 QUEST
beach bash
Finders keepers
The Pier Antique Show plus Fashion Alley will be from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. at Pier 94 through March 14. The event will feature five hundred exhibitors. For more information, call 973.808.5015.
Hop to it
On March 13th and 14th, the Pier Antique Show plus Fashion Alley will take place from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. at Pier 94. Five hundred exhibitors will participate in the event. For more information, call 973.808.5015.
March
15
Delightful dinner
The Town of Palm Beach United Way will host the Alexis de Tocqueville Society Recognition Dinner at Club Colette. For more information, call 561.655.1919.
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The great outdoors
The Preservation Foundation of Palm Beach will host the Preservationist Club Dinner at 7:30 p.m. at Pan’s Garden. For more information, call 561.832.0731. Starry night
The New York City Opera will hold the Spring Gala and Opera Ball at 6 p.m. at the David H. Koch Theater. The event will feature a performance of Chabrier’s L’Etoile. For more information, call 212.870.5595.
19
Dance the night away
The Winston Churchill Foundation of the United States will host its dinner dance at Club Colette. For more information, call 212.752.3200.
22
theatrical treat
A two-act concert version of John Steinbeck’s The Grapes of Wrath will be staged at 8 p.m. at Carnegie Hall. The performance will feature Broadway and opera talents. For more information, call 646.202.9623.
On March 25th, a preview of Art in Bloom 2010: Art and Flowers in Harmony, a four-day celebration, will take place at the Norton Museum of Art. The event to follow will juxtapose fresh flowers with works of art from the Norton Museum of Art’s existing collection. For more information, call 561.832.5196.
25
night at the museum
The Norton Museum of Art will hold a preview of Art in
Bloom 2010: Art and Flowers in Harmony at the Norton Museum of Art. For more information, call 561.832.5196.
26
eastern evening
a high note
The Asia Society will celebrate Asia Week in New York City with AllThingsArtASIA at 6 p.m. at 725 Park Avenue. For more information, call 212.327.9335.
The Palm Beach Opera will host the Opera Ball at 7 p.m. at the Brazilian Court Hotel. For more information, call 561.835.7559. a trump card
The It Happened to Alexa Foundation will hold a dinner with Bill O’Reilly at Mar-a-Lago. Donald and Melania Trump will be honorary chairpersons. For more information, call 561.366.4893.
ballet benefit
The American Ballet Theatre will hold the fourteenth annual Culinary Pas de Deux at 7 p.m. at Pier Sixty. Designer Christian Siriano will serve as honorary chair. For more information, call 212.477.3030.
April 1
24
lovely luncheon
The Center for Creative Education will host its eleventh annual spring luncheon “Drawn to Learn” at 11:30 a.m. at a private residence. For more information, call 561.805.9927.
sweet tea
On March 22nd, AllThingsArtASIA will take place at the Asia Society at 725 Park Avenue. For more information, call 212.327.9335.
The Preservation Foundation of Palm Beach will hold a presentation of the Tea and Schuler Award at 2 p.m. at 311 Peruvian Avenue. For more information, call 561.832.0731.
artsy part y
The Katherine M. Taglialatella Foundation will hold a reception at 6 p.m. at DJT Fine Art. For more information, call 212.367.0881.
7
asian art
“Asian Harmony,” a collection by Italian Painer Arianna Caroli, will be on view at Wally Findlay Galleries New York at 124 East 57th Street. For more information, call 212.421.5390.
13
Part y on Park
The Hale House Center will host its annual spring dinner dance at 583 Park Avenue. For more information, call 212.531.5433.
15
natural history night
The festive 2010 Museum Dance, New York City’s longest-running junior benefit, will take place at 7:30 p.m. at the American Museum of Natural History. For more information, call 212.313.7161.
H A R RY B E N S O N
IT SEEMS LIKE YESTERDAY The story here really begins in 1962,
on the movie set of Cleopatra in Rome. The film’s stars, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, were having a torrid affair. In fact, I believe it was the most photographed and most scandalous affair in movie history. The problem, as you may recall, was that they were both married—she to Eddie Fisher and he to Sybil Williams, a pretty miner’s daughter from Wales. Even the Pope issued a statement with words to the effect that their behavior was unconscionable. Everywhere they went, the media was right behind. The pair even went out looking for the paparazzi and, believe me, they found them. Thus, there was quite a bit of sympathy for Richard’s wife, Sybil. By May of 1965, a year after her divorce was finalized, Sybil opened a nightclub in New York City called Arthur (it was an inside joke about the Beatles’ hairstyles, I believe). It became the place to party, although no one was kept out by bouncers behind velvet ropes. Arthur’s in-house band, The Wild Ones, played Beatles 60 QUEST
music every night. The lead singer was Jordan Christopher. By the time the first of Arthur’s New Year’s Eve costume parties rolled around, Sybil and Jordan were an item. They married a couple of years later, causing their own sensation as he was ten years her junior. Barbra Streisand, accompanied by her husband at the time, actor Elliot Gould, arrived at the New Year’s party dressed as the glamourous, platinumblonde ’30s film star Jean Harlow. At the time, Barbra was the biggest luminary on Broadway, starring as Fanny Brice in Funny Girl. She started playfully posing for my camera. What’s interesting to me is that I’ve hardly known Barbra to ham it up for a photographer. She has always been controlling, serious, and not the least bit open. So I was pleased to come across this negative recently stored away in my files. So there you have it. That’s the story behind this photograph, and it really does seem like only yesterday that it was all happening at Arthur’s. u
This page: Barbra Streisand, dressed as Jean Harlow, at Arthur’s in New York City, New Year’s Eve, 1965. Opposite: Sybil Burton and Jordan Christopher.
Ta k i
boys, don’t cry
Roger Federer, right, blubbed in front of fans after Rafael Nadal defeated him, while a dying Lou Gehrig shed not a tear when he bowed his head in front of 75,000.
Watching the recent finals of the Australian Open was a revelation. The worthy loser, Andy Murray, praised the winner, Roger Federer, by saying that he could cry like Federer, but as yet could not play as well as him. He then broke down and cried in front of thousands. The crowd loved it and cheered him to the rafters. Every journalist covering the final repeated Murray’s words as if they were the Gettysburg Address. The untilthen dour Scot was suddenly transformed into a tender, sympathetic person, instead
of a tough guy whose hitherto impregnable armor had carried him within a whisker of tennis immortality by winning a grand slam. And yet, Murray’s tears were nothing new for the Australian public and the millions watching on the idiot box. Just one year to the day, the same Federer blubbed during the ceremony while addressing the winner, Rafael Nadal. I had watched that final also, and was surprised to see the most successful tennis player in history cry like a baby in front of his fans.
What is going on here? Have tennis players turned into Hollywood types? Is this genuine emotion or shameless spin? Do their agents tell them that crying will make their endorsements more valuable? The answer is simple. Tennis players are following the cult of sentimentality as men in all walks of life are doing. Tough guys may not dance nowadays, but they sure know how to cry—at least in public. Playing the sympathy card is the equivalent to what was once known as the stiff upper lip, with today’s difference being
Ta k i the theatrical prop of the wobbling lower lip. And so it goes, sport fans. You lose, you cry, and it snatches moral victory from the hard-won triumph of the tougher one. Actually, it is a shameless new low in spin, first established by the great draft dodger himself, Bill Clinton, a man who could well up at the sight of a pregnant prostitute on her way to court. The birthplace of the stiff upper lip was Sparta, my mother’s birthplace. “With your shield or on it,” was the order a Spartan mother issued to her departing warrior son. In other words, come back a winner or be brought back dead.
Nor did Ted Kennedy cry when giving the funeral oration for his brother Bobby. And the greatest president of recent years, Richard Nixon, kept a straight face and a stiff upper lip when he was forced to relinquish the presidency after a coup d’état by Democrat pols thirsting for revenge after the drubbing they had taken in the polls two years earlier. Compare that with current British Prime Minister Gordon Brown. He recently wept on T.V. when talking about the death of his infant daughter, but this came after hours of negotiations with the BBC on how to overcome the widespread
Austrian skier had ever made before. Toni Sailer, the greatest ever, must have turned over in his you-know-what. I suppose it’s only by emoting in public that people today believe you have any heart at all. The rot really took off after the Princess Di’s death, when an ugly mood threatened the British monarchy because of the perception that their absence of public displays of grief proved them heartless. It was only after the Queen showed a sign of sorrow that the danger was diffused. This had its roots in the therapy culture, which tells us it’s bad to repress emotion. It was a ’60s curse
J.F.K. didn’t cry when he went on television to announce he had a lost a baby, while the tearful Clinton used cheap histrionics to gain public favor.
Ironically, I remember my mother wailing when my father went off to war, a very unSpartan behavior, but what the hell, she had become Americanized, I suppose. Now everybody cries, and tears have become the commodity that does not lose its value. Yet a dying Lou Gehrig did not cry; he just bent his head in front of 75,000 people at Yankee Stadium and proclaimed that he was the “luckiest man on this earth.” J.F.K. did not shed tears when he went on national television to announce his son had died at childbirth.
perception that he is seen as remote. It does make one wonder. No parent can fail to sympathize with Brown, but how many would talk about it in a political interview in front of millions? Brown is a politician desperately seeking public approval, so even the death of a child is fair game. But let’s leave politicians aside and get back to tough guys. Like Hermann Maier, the Austrian “Herminator,” one of the bravest skiers ever. Hermann cried like a baby after he won two gold medals in the Nagano Olympics, an achievement no
that’s now become a way of life. Everyone cries. This has the pernicious effect not only of devaluing real feelings of grief, but elevating narcissistic histrionics. Emotional incontinence has turned men into wimps. The new man has to be caring and unafraid of bursting into tears. But I’ve got news for you. It’s all a sham. Good men are caring without having to show it. Stoicism and emotional restraint are superior to cheap histrionics. Touchyfeely types are like Clinton: a dime a dozen, and as dishonest as they come. u M A R CH 2 0 1 0 6 3
Quest
Fresh Finds B Y d a n i e l c a p p e l l o AND e l i z a b e t h m e i g h e r MARCH IS THE WEDNESDAY of months. It wishes winter were gone, but it’s not quite spring. It’s often the month of “spring break,” but no matter how you cut it or however far away you get on “break,” March is here to stay. Sometimes a fresh find is all you need to get through the end of the winter blahs, which is why we’ve gathered things for him and for her that are guaranteed to put a light spring in your step.
You don’t have to be from Texas to love the lizard Cowboy Saddle bag from Ralph Lauren Collection. $8,995. Ralph Lauren: Select Ralph Lauren stores or ralphlauren.com.
Step it up a notch with the wildly fun and pleasantly versatile Shakira shoe, in blue-andgreen elaphe skin. $975. Jimmy Choo: Available at Jimmy Choo boutiques, 866.JCHOO.US, or jimmychoo.com.
The Meisterstück Solitaire Barley pen comes in 18-kt. A side-ruffle skirt with bow waist, printed tunic, and long two-button jacket will make a splash on the runway or the street. Valentino: 747 Madison Avenue, 212.772.6969. 64 QUEST
rose gold with a barley guilloché pattern. $13,900. Montblanc: 598 Madison Avenue, 212.223.8888.
835.59-ct. ruby beads are mounted on an “LL” carré-cut 8.4-ct. diamond clasp on this enchanting “LL” necklace. Price upon request. LEVIEV: 700 Madison Avenue, 212.763.5300, leviev.com.
A 15.82-ct. ruby is at the center of this ring encrusted by 410 diamonds weighing 2.54-ct. Price upon request. Chopard: 800.CHOPARD or chopard.com.
The Tiffany Charms sunglasses come with interchangeable charms for the temples, so that style mavens can switch it up. $320. Available at ILORI, 138 Spring Street, 212.226.8276.
These rose earrings are perfectly crafted for her ears, in pink sapphires. $4750. Asprey: 853 Madison Avenue, 212.688.1811.
The Pandamonium shift dress is a feel-good buy: 10% of sale proceeds go to the WorldWild Life Fund. $178. Lilly Pulitzer: 3101 PGA Boulevard, Palm Beach Gardens, 561.799.9400. Not to be thrown away: the brown Tiger Eye waste basket is a sleek keeper. $4,719. Sherle Wagner International: 212.758.3300 or sherlewagner.com.
Fresh Finds
Pay attention to the details: choose from these gold-and-onyx cuff links or a stellar selection in 18-kt. gold (yellow or rose). A cult classic for decades, the Indy boot (as in
$1,125 - $2,185. Wempe: 700 Fifth Avenue, 212.397.9000, or wempe.com.
Indiana Jones) by Alden is back—as popular as ever, and exclusively for J. Crew. $450. J. Crew: 800.562.0258 or jcrew.com.
The Oyster Perpetual Daytona Cosmograph features 44-jewel chronometer movement and an 18-kt. white gold fliplock clasp. $21,850. Rolex: 800.36.ROLEX for an Official Rolex Jeweler near you.
A solar scent for women, a sensual scent for men: Burberry Punchy-prep is a skull-and-crossbones needlepoint belt, with leather backing and buckle. $195. J. McLaughlin: 1311 Madison Avenue, 212.369.4830. 66 QUEST
Sport fragrances come in three sizes. $47-78. Burberry Sport: Available at fine department stores nationwide.
The Collection cushion by Royal Hut is made from a beautiful handmade batik. $100. Calypso St. Barth: 407 Broome Street, 212.925.6200.
Professional-quality brushes and tweezers are chicly kept in this cerulean-blue crocodile-print leather brush roll. $450. Smythson: 4 West 57th Street, 866.769.8476, smythson.com.
The t-back long dress in primrose print, made of 100% sandwashed silk twill, looks stylish with a merino solid-stripe cardigan. ADAM: 678 Hudson Street, 212.229.2838, or shopadam.com.
The craftsmanship of these 24-kt. gold Maya earrings, with diamonds, is exquisite and almost
The platinum Tourbillon Souverain is ultra-handsome and stately, with date seconds. Price upon request. FP Journe: 721
other-worldly. $2,765. Yossi Harari: Available at Bergdorf Goodman, 754 Fifth Avenue, 212.872.2518.
Madison Avenue, 212.644.5918.
The Kristin embossed clutch in yellow is a surefire hint at spring days ahead. $348. Coach: 595 Madison Avenue, 212.754.0041, or coach.com.
MARCH 2010 67
t r av e l The president of Wempe Jewelers, Rudy Albers, took four watches with him on a recent trip to Finland for the Porsche Ice Force Experience. For more information, contact Stephan Griese: stephan.griese@porsche.de.
gear heads “You know it’s bad when the Cayenne driver knows you by name,” says Rudy Albers, president of Wempe Jewelers on Fifth Avenue. On a recent weekend, Albers went to Ivalo, Finland, where temperatures were -31˚C, to join a fiveday adventure—The Porsche Ice-Force Pro-Driving Experience. This driving school is not for beginners. Each day, drivers take out thirty Porsches around different tracks on a giant frozen lake and switch back and forth between the Cayman S, the 911 S, the 911 4S, the 911 Turbo, and the new Panamera (a 4-door sports sedan), all equipped with 4mm studded tires to gain traction on the 68 QUEST
ice. Porsche also provides Cayenne SUVs at the ready to pull out should a driver “crash”—which Albers notes is a regular occurrence. Assigned with a partner, each driver tests their own limits in these luxury sports cars. “The point is to experience the different driving concepts, from 4-wheel to rearwheel drive to the power of the Turbo, greatly improving your car control skills by the end of the week,” Albers says. “You can’t get hurt or damage the car. You just end up ‘crashing’ into deep snow. And it’s a sport driving school, so you’re most likely covered under your life insurance.”
In the essence of testing gears, Albers took along four top-of-the-line sport watches to check their “wear-withal” in extreme weather. He left a stainless steel Rolex Deepsea ($9,250), a Wempe Zeitmeister Ceramic Chronograph ($4,895), a stainless steel Panerai Luminor 1950 Submersible with Depth Gauge on rubber strap ($18,900), and a stainless steel Audemars Piguet Offshore ($22,000) on his balcony in the snow for the night and defrosted them the next morning. “I wasn’t surprised that they were running a few seconds slower, nor that they were still there, but I surely wouldn’t have tried this ‘stunt’ at home.” u
ru dy a lb e r s
By georgina schaeffer
shopping
Palm Beach Bazaar “when I first opened my store it was going to be a collection of beautiful things from around the world,” says Palm Beach interior designer Jennifer Garrigues. “I wanted to have a combination of clothes, jewelry, art, furniture, and rugs, and that’s exactly what I have stuck to all these years.” As a visiting eye moves throughout the room, it delights in discovering so many eclectic objects, and the more you look, the more you see. There’s the fabulous root furniture, a desk of bamboo, and the bone mirror hanging above it. “I love it!” says Garrigues. “What I like the most are the things made of natural materials—shell, bamboo, horn…” (Naturally shed, of course; Garrigues is an animal lover and often donates to the Peggy Adams Animal Rescue.) Over the years, Garrigues has developed a series of trunk shows with like-minded design aficionados. Textile designer John Robshaw has been showing at her shop for four years. “We met at the High Point Furniture Market and we just hit it off,” she says. Also expected is a show with the house of Quadrille Couture, which translates home-furnishing fabrics into creative clothing. But textiles are not Garrigues’s only obsession. She also hosts shows for jewelry designers, like Butler and Wilson from London and New York’s Masha Archer. Tom Tribby is currently exhibiting his grand canvases at the shop. His art work is known for its idiosyncratic style and artistic command, as well as for his still-life and landscape pieces. To close out the season, Paris-based designers Bernd Dams and Andrew Zega will introduce their first porcelain creations expressing Chinoiserie, Neoclassicism, and Romantic Whimsy themes. More than anything, this mini-bazaar, located next to the popular Bice restaurant at 308 Peruvian Avenue, thrives on always changing. A visitor from Jupiter or Miami, or a transplanted New Yorker, can always expect something new in the window as they stroll the avenue. “I always like to have unusual things that people can have right away, or at least are able to order. I believe in instant gratification. It’s what makes shopping fun.” u
For more information, call Jennifer Garrigues at 561.659.7376. 7 0 Q U EST
S a r g e n t P h oto g r a p h y
By Georgina Schaeffer
Inside Jennifer Garrigues: a bazaar of collected items from all around the world. Opposite, above: designer Jennifer Garrigues. Below: inside her Palm Beach store.
RE L AT I O N SHIPS
LOVE, bespoke
From Cyrano de bergerac to Jane
Austen’s Emma, history is replete with characters who provide the lovelorn with a little help down the path to happily ever after. After all, if love is a battlefield, it helps to fight under the leadership of a strong commander. Enter the Matchmaker. Richard Easton has spent decades brokering deals for the world’s top companies, including his own; after selling EMC Banc, which he founded, he started RJ Easton, the investment-banking powerhouse that boasts an astonishing 90% close rate for the deals it takes on. That’s a lot of buyers found—and a lot of happy sellers. In his new career, he’s still matching, but his focus has shifted away from assets and liabilities…to love. What Easton is brokering these days for his high-powered clients is bespoke introductions. In an industry dominated by women, business is booming for the man who gave up finance to become one of the world’s leading matchmakers. A former client of two prominent matchmakers, the now-engaged New Yorker is 72 QUEST
revolutionizing the industry: “I’m probably the only really serious matchmaker out there who is a man,” says Easton, adding, “I don’t need a translator.” He is the same demographic as his clients, allowing him to understand and relate to their desires and tastes. In other words, he speaks the same language. Easton screens both his clients and potential matches carefully; the pool of women he draws from is highly-educated, sophisticated—and ready to be lucky in love. “Women go from emotionally unavailable man to emotionally unavailable man. The great part about a matchmaker is that the men are not here just to date.” These are self-selecting men who are ready for a relationship. “If you think about it, how else are you to meet Mr. Right? If he is successful, he works a lot. He has the time to spend with you, but not the time to find you.” So Easton finds the perfect woman instead, using the international connections he developed over decades. He has made hundreds of matches, most recently an Italian countess with a West
Coast enterpreneur. Online dating isn’t an option for Easton’s clients: “If you were a successful executive...looking for a superstar business partner, would you run an [online] ad, sift through thousands of résumés, and interview hundreds of candidates...or would you engage a toplevel search firm to introduce only the most extraordinary people?” Introductions are not the only connections Easton makes: he is a full-service romance concierge, offering stylists and personal shoppers, restaurants, spa, and vacations reservations, and unlimited introductions until he finds your Miss Right. He’ll “even catch the redeye to meet his clients in Mayfair for a quick bite at Le Boudin Blanc.” After all, some introductions are better made in person. Easton has gone from the art of the deal to the heart of the deal—and singles worldwide are luckier for it. u Richard Easton Limited represents a select number of clients worldwide from its headquarters in New York City. For information, call 212.253.5342 or visit richardeaston.com.
a ko s p h oto . co m ( yac h t ) / i l b u co
Richard Easton, left, has leveraged his success in the world of corporate mergers and acquisitions to broker a different kind of deal: true love. Quest sat down with Easton at the Manhattan headquarters of his eponymous boutique matchmaking firm. Matchmaker, matchmaker, make us a match...
match 411: easton advises * Choose a first date spot in the woman’s neighborhood. One of our favorite restaurants is Il Buco, above right, at 47 Bond Street—one of the best-kept secrets in New York. * The man pays for the pleasure of the woman’s company! When I was a teenager preparing for my first date, my mother summoned me to her library. ‘Richard,’ she counseled, ‘when you ask a lady out, it is for the pleasure of her company, nothing more, and even if all you can afford is a picnic in the park, you will always treat her. That is the gentlemanly thing to do.’
* We tell women to wear anything they want on a date—as long as it’s that little black dress. * If it’s snowing, get a car service: leave the boots at home. * No man belongs out after 5 p.m. without a jacket. * I don’t believe in ‘rules’ like waiting three days to call. If you had a good time, call her the next day to arrange another date. Don’t play hard to get: if you like someone, tell them. And if you don’t, tell them that, too. See Richard Easton’s blog at richardeaston.com/match411.
FA S H I O N
bright days ahead B y E l i z a be t h b r o w n
“While traveling in the South of France, I bought a linen tunic that would become the cornerstone of my business,” says Charlotte Kellogg on the beginnings of her Palm Beach apparel store. “We still carry this tunic in the store, twelve years later. It continues to sell in linen and silk.” Since 1998, Kellogg has been a familiar presence on Worth Avenue, offering basic styles in natural fabrics, most of which are manufactured domestically. She now boasts two locations in the Gucci Courtyard, one for linen and the other for silk. “I feel really, really pleased when I see women wearing and enjoying the clothes as they go about their lives,” Kellogg says. Known for her bold choices in colors and fabrics, Kellogg often draws inspiration from her personal collection of vintage clothing. “I have recreated an Yves Saint Laurent linen top from the ’70s, and we are now offering it in several colors.” Kellogg’s ability to appeal to her customer by marrying the past with the present, and selling the resulting pieces in a variety of bright hues, is the foundation of her success. What’s up for spring? A pink and green patterned sweater and a zebra print shell. “Right now, animal prints are very popular,” Kellogg says. In addition to her collection, Kellogg also sells Helga Wagner pearl, coral, and shell jewelry at her store, the perfect complement to her effortlessly chic clothing. “The colors in her jewelry really bring out the colors in my clothes.” u Designer Charlotte Kellogg sports her own pink and black silk designs, available in her store at 256 Worth Avenue in Palm Beach, FL. 74 Q U E S T
artistic living This fabulous home was designed
for those who know how to live well. Each room offers something for homeowners who appreciate the finer things in life. The amenities throughout the apartment and the building are a total indulgence for the sportsman, the intellectual, and the connoisseur. Among its twelve rooms, the apartment features a wine cave and media room—that’s in addition to the grand foyer, formal dining room, and eat-in kitchen. The second story contains a luxurious three-room master suite, three to four additional bedrooms, an office, and three baths. The true heart of the home is the spectacular two-story great room, featuring a dramatic south-facing wall 76 QUEST
and an eighteen-plus-foot ceiling. The upstairs balcony looks down over a warm, expansive space lined with an oak-paneled 2,500-volume library. It is the ultimate in entertaining spaces, but also the perfect spot to curl up with a glass of wine and your favorite book. The craftsmanship and detail make this home even more irresistable. Prewar character runs throughout every room in the form of hard wood floors, custom cabinetry and millwork, leaded glass windows, and beamed ceilings. The integrity of the original detail in the formal rooms is balanced by a recently renovated gourmet kitchen with modern appliances and natural light. The tiled bathrooms have also been totally updated with new fixtures and materials.
And there’s more to love than the apartment itself. The Hotel Des Artistes is a true New York icon. With its legendary name, it is one of the most illustrious cooperatives on the Upper West Side, if not in the city itself. The neo-gothic building, designed by George Mort Pollard, has been an artist mecca since it was built in 1916. With its proximity to Central Park, the building has been home to many celebrated residents. In addition to its legacy, the building also features many modern luxuries. Beyond all of the apartment’s fine amenities, the Hotel Des Artistes is home to the La Palestra Health Club that offers a pool, squash court, and roof terrace. For added convenience, the building staff includes a concierge and elevator attendant. u
Open h o use
This page, clockwise from top: An oenophile’s delight—the perfect at-home wine cellar; the bright and sunny eat-in kitchen; a cozy, but elegant, dining room is ideal for entertaining; the front hallway showcases stained glass; the aubergine bedroom. Opposite: The spectacular “great room” of an apartment at Hotel des Artists, located at 1 West 67th Street. This legendary building in the neo-Gothic style originally housed artists in studios. 1 West 67th Street is offered by brokers Nikki Field and Patricia Wheatley of Sotheby’s International Realty at $7.9 million.
PALM BEACH PROPERTIES
OCEANFRONT: 4 bedrooms with own bath, balcony, and water views. Direct oceanfront parcel included. $10,500,000. WEB: 0074738 Wally Turner, 561.301.2060
OCEANFRONT: Restored 3-story 1928 Mediterranean. 7 bedroom, 6.5 bah. Private beach cabana. $10,000,000. WEB: 0075087 Carole Koeppel, 561.329.0019
PHIPPS ESTATES: Luxurious 5-bedroom residence with spacious open living areas. Resort-style pool terrace. $7,950,000. WEB: 0074642 Cristina Condon, 561.301.2211
410 CHILEAN: In-town Mediterranean home with grand outdoor loggias. 3 bedrooms, 3.5 baths. $10,250,000. WEB: 0075035 Cristina Condon, 561.301.2211
EVERGLADES ISLAND: 135’ direct Intracoastal property, ideal for new construction. Beautiful sunsets. $8,900,000. WEB: 0075002 Wally Turner, 561.301.2060
Remarkable Dutch Colonial in impeccable condition. 6 bedrooms, 8.5 baths. $9,900,000. WEB: 0074986 Ned Monell, 561.722.0886
260 KAWAMA LANE:
260 CLARKE AVE: 5 bedrooms, 6.5 bath 2-story home. 21’ ceilings. $8,200,000. WEB: 0075054 Carole Ruhlman, 561.329.9372, Cristina Condon, 561.301.2211
241 EL VEDADO: John Volk Neo-Classical landmarked residence. 4 bedrooms with bath en-suite. $8,995,000. WEB: 0075050 Kim Raich, 561.718.1216
BREAKERS ROW: Enjoy all the amenities available to the Breakers Hotel guests including beach, tennis, 2 golf courses. WEB: 0075091, 0075092 Cristina Condon, 561.301.2211
ONE SINGER ISLAND: Direct Oceanfront property. Private Beach, pool overlooking ocean in full service building. $4,900,000. WEB: 0075083 Sonja Abrahamsen, 561.573.9198
401 CHILEAN: Mediterranean townhome with outdoor spaces and pool. 3 bedrooms plus library, 5 full baths. $5,500,000. WEB: 0075012 Cristina Condon, 561.301.2211
333 PENDELTON: John Volk on a private lake block with high elevation. 4 bedrooms plus 2 bedroom staff quarters. $3,750,000. WEB: 0075084 Elizabeth Schuler, 561.329.4875
PALM BEACH BROKERAGE | sothebyshomes.com/palmbeach 340 ROYAL POINCIANA WAY, SUITE 337, PALM BEACH, FL 33480 T 561.659.3555 F 561.655.2359 Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc. is owned and operated by NRT LLC. Sotheby’s International Realty® is a registered trademark. Farm of Jas de Bouffan, used with permission.
Stunning Modern Estate - Sophisticated and refined. Over 7000 square feet of distinctive living space. Fabulous light, curved interior and exterior walls, high ceilings, walls of windows with clerestories, hardwood floors, custom low-voltage lighting and three fireplaces. Living Room with massive stone Fireplace and window wall. New Kitchen by Deane. Six Bedrooms. Three gorgeous acres with Pool. Additional land available. $3,250,000
Elegant European - Overlooking the water and reservation. Phenomenal Stone & Stucco designed by Nadler & Philopena. Vaulted ceilings and two fireplaces. Great Room with walls of windows. State-of-the-Art Kitchen. Library. Media Room. Five Bedrooms.Ten gorgeous acres with incredible flowering trees and plantings. Swimming pond and access to the Stone Hill River. Beautiful stone walls, ornamental grasses, fish pond and a waterfall! $2,500,000
A Peaceful Oasis -
Gated drive to a truly “one of a kind” country estate! Beautiful eight-acre property with tennis court, pool and gazebo set amidst breathtaking landscaping. 1950’s Main House with an eclectic and artistic collection of architectural detail....rustic slab marble floors, barn siding walls and beamed ceilings. Brass hardware and bronze casement windows from 19th Century European hotel. Four Bedrooms. Separate Studio/Office. $2,695,000
Warm Woods & Stone -
‘Neath the Old White Ash - Circa 1930’s Country House in the heart of Stanwood. Hardwood floors, extensive built-ins and a vintage stone fireplace. Sun-filled Living Room. Open Dining Room with doors to rear terrace. Open Country Kitchen with oak and granite. Private Master Suite with Bath. Two Family Bedrooms. Spectacularly landscaped parcel with beautiful flowering gardens. Bedford Schools. Extensive stonework. $539,000
1730 Farmhouse -
(914) 234-9234
Rich architectural details with distinctive design. Hardwood floors, skylights, walls of exposed stone and glass. Wonderful open floor plan with over 4530 square feet of living space. Dramatic Living Room with Fireplace. Stunning Dining Room. Maple Kitchen. Four Bedrooms all with en suite Baths. On quiet cul-de-sac, two gorgeous Waccabuc acres with views of a scenic pond. Heated Pool perfectly sited in a rock outcropping. $1,275,000
Beautifully restored with wide-plank floors, hand-hewn beams and raised paneling. Living Room with Fireplace. Formal Dining Room. Country Kitchen with exposed beams. Library with Fireplace. Three Bedrooms. Family Room with Fireplace and original cooking crane. Breathtaking property with flowering gardens and an Apple Orchard. Wisteria-covered Arbor. Studio/Guest Room. Barn. $899,000
493 BEDFORD CENTER RD, BEDFORD HILLS, NY SPECIALIZING IN THE UNUSUAL FOR OVER 59 YEARS
WWW.GINNEL.COM
FINE PROPERTIES FROM OUR COLLECTION
PENTHOUSE TRIPLEX
LA GRAND DAME
ABOVE AND BEYOND…
West Village Exclusive Triplex w/360 degree views from across the Hudson, Statue of Liberty, Park & city. Architect ready, 5,842 SF incl. 6 private terrs. FS DM Bldg, prvt gym & Jean-Georges restaurant. Asks: $25M. Web#1799129 Suzun Bennet, VP 212.381.4223 Rosa Murphy, SVP 212.381.4251
West Village Exclusive Enter this 22-ft townhouse through a grand stoop to the fabulous entertaining/ parlor floor w/molding. 7 BRs, 5 full Bths, 2 powder rms, media rm, 45-foot garden, 22-ft x 10-ft terr, elevator, chef’s kit w/high end appliances. Call for a prvt viewing. Asks: $14.9M. Web#1719238 Astrid Pillay, SVP 212.381.2262
TriBeCa Exclusive Hi flr residence at The Hubert is renovated to perfection w/ grand proportions, superb luxury finishes, & attention to detail throughout! Dramatic entertaining space feat. soaring ceils, chef’s kit & sweeping city vus from endless flr-to ceil casement wndws. 2 BRs, a library & staff quarters. Expensive and worth it! Asks: $7.5M. Web#1802343 Richard Orenstein, EVP 212.381.4248
TOWNHOUSE WITH INCOME
GRACIOUS AND GRAND SCALE
PENTHOUSE WORK OF ART
60s East Exclusive Two unit townhouse. Doctors office on the street level with great income and an owner’s duplex above with great patio. Call for a private viewing of this exceptionally sound investment property. Asks: $4.995M. Web#1627244 Astrid Pillay, SVP 212.381.2262
Park Ave Exclusive Private landing opens into grand marble gallery; huge LR with adjacent formal square DR. Currently a 2BR and library. Large maid’s room and bath. N/W/S exposures add great light and views. Gracious layout in the finest location. Pied-à-terres and pets OK. Asks: $4.95M. Web#1800617 Elizabeth Sahlman, SVP 212.381.3293 Liora Yalof, SVP 212.381.3322
East Village Exclusive Three years of painstaking renov leads to a remarkable home. Been featured in architectural mags and celeb photo shoots. Features: chef’s kitchen, wbfp, laundry room, dramatic sky-lit staircase leading to roof terrace, CAC and top-of-the line lighting and fixtures. Asks: $4.5M. Web#91475 Ari Harkov, VP 212.381.4246 Warner Lewis, VP 212.381.6590
GRAND FIVE BEDROOMS PREWAR
HIGH & BRIGHT PREWAR 7
STUNNING FULL THREE BEDROOM PW 6
CPW Exclusive Entry gallery leads to grand LR, wood-burning fireplace, moldings, 11.5-foot ceilings, and bay window. Huge DR, gorgeous wood paneled library with built-in bookcases. Renovated country EIK, W/D. 5 BRs, 3 renovated baths, MBR suite with study. 2 apts per floor, 24-hour doorman, gym. Asks: $4.350M. Web#1793604 Monica Podell, SVP 212.381.3231
72 Street East Exclusive Near Lycee, Buckley & Town schools as well as medical cntrs, this wonderful hi-flr PW 7 has extra-large rms, excellent light & vus. The layout features Grand LR/WBF, formal DR, Kit, 3BRs, 3.5Bths & maids all in a distinguished FS co-op w/private garden. Asks: $2.999M. Web#1700038 Marguerite Platt, EVP 212.381.3223 David Platt 212.381.3354
90s/East Exclusive Top Fifth Ave Bldg on a Hi flr. Renov PW 6 has 3 full BRs, faces S w/side prk vus. LR feat WBFP & Herringbone flrs. DA chef’s kit. Ensuite to the MBR is Lux spa Bth w/Lrg shower, sep soaking tub & W/D. 2 addtl BRs face S & have side prk vus,+addtl Bth. Lobby, storage bin & anticipated new gym! Asks: $2.495M. Web #1804396 Eloise Johnson, EVP 212.381.3224
We are pledged to the letter and spirit of U.S. policy for the achievement of equal housing opportunity throughout the Nation. We encourage and support an affirmative advertising and marketing program in which there are no barriers to obtaining housing because of race, color, religion, sex, handicap, familial status or national origin. Halstead Property, LLC
Congratulations to
Eloise Johnson on Being Awarded 2009 Top Grossing Agent Award for Halstead Property
halstead.com
STUNNING ROCK RIDGE COMPOUND
“ROSEBURST” IN BELLE HAVEN
$14,500,000 · Please visit: www.midwooddr.com Exclusive Agent: Lee Fleischman
$11,250,000
· Please visit: www.victorianwaterfront.com Exclusive Agent: Sally Maloney
REGAL GEORGIAN ON ROUND HILL
EXTRAORDINARY BACKCOUNTRY COMPOUND
$6,495,000 · Please visit: www.regalgeorgian.com Exclusive Agent: Sally Maloney
$5,875,000 · Please visit: www.riversvillerd.com Exclusive Agent: Lyn Stevens
OVERLOOKING THE SOUND $4,400,000
MILBANK-MEAD II TOWN HOUSE
· Please visit: www.byramshorewaterfront.com Exclusive Agent: Marianne Scipione
G R E E N W IC H
F I N E
$3,850,000 · Please visit: www.milbankmeadII.com Exclusive Agent: Sally Maloney
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WHAT’S NEUE FOR SPRING
Taking in the season’s fashions at the Neue Galerie. By Daniel cappello P H O T O G R AP H E D B Y j a c k d e u t s c h
This page: Burberry doublebreasted trench dress; pleated Stapelton skirt by Ralph Lauren Collection; Jimmy Choo Lance shoes; Tiffany & Co. marquise diamond square-link bracelet; Cartier Tank Franรงaise timepiece with diamonds. Opposite: Sinclaire 10 bow coat in beaujolais; J. Crew vintage bateau top; Brazilian beading short in cream by Tibi; VBH Brera Millennium Jacquard crocodile bag; Burberry sunglasses; Manolo Blahnik Tuccio shoes; Tiffany & Co. yellow-gold hammered hoop earrings by Paloma Picasso.
This page: Burberry stretch cotton-and-satin blouse in nutmeg; Tibi eyelet short in safari; Jimmy Choo Nixon shoes; Tiffany & Co. yellow-gold Marrakesch drop earrings and black-onyx Marrakesch dome pendant. Opposite: White button-down by Burberry; Tibi Begonia sequins skirt; Tiffany & Co. aquamarine drop earrings with round diamonds and swing diamond-drop necklace; Kwiat diamond Fidelity bangles.
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J. Crew garden ribbon shift dress; Dennis Basso fur bolero in multi-brown; Tiffany & Co. diamond two-row necklace; Kwiat Vintage Collection diamond drop earrings. 88 QUEST
WHAT HAPPENS WHEN a girl goes out for an uptown stroll and stumbles into art? We know— because our girl, Annabel Vartanian, recently discovered the Neue Galerie at Fifth Avenue and 86th Street. Dressed in one of spring’s best new looks, Annabel ambled inside to take in the early twentieth-century German and Austrian art that are the focus of the Neue, which was founded by Ronald S. Lauder and art collector Serge Sabarsky. Here, in the opulent but intimate galleries of the Neue, Annabel discovers works by Gustav Klimt, Erich Heckel, and Karl Schmidt-Rottluff. Art meets fashion as Annabel browses the museum and transitions from day to cocktail to evening, in some of this season’s most sought-after labels.
Christian Cota floral print dress; navy shoes by Ralph Lauren; Tiffany & Co. emerald-cut tanzanite-anddiamond drop earrings and pear-shape violet spinel drop necklace with diamonds.
This page: Dennis Basso silk blouse and floral lace skirt with appliquĂŠs; Kwiat platinum-and-diamond Legacy necklace.
Opposite: Marchesa strapless gown with gold embroidered detail; Tiffany & Co. round diamond earrings; Kwiat white-and yellow-diamond Legacy necklace.
This page: Ralph Lauren Collection beaded Stefania dress; Jimmy Choo Lance shoes; Tiffany & Co. oval diamond vine earrings and diamond two-row necklace. Opposite: J. Mendel silk-wool crepe wrap dress; Dennis Basso fur bolero; Chanel Timeless Classic handbag; Roger Vivier Mini Toe shoes; Kwiat platinum emeralddrop earrings and gold-and-diamond Vintage cuff. Styling by Rita Hazan Salon: Myrna Palacios (hair); Natalie DiStefano (makeup). First assistant: Jamie Yike; second assistants: Elizabeth Brown, Essie Gavrilov. 92 QUEST
NEVER BEENE BETTER By DANIEL CAPPELLO Like all great love affairs, this one begins with a good story. Shortly after her daughter’s birth, in 1979, Patsy Tarr splurged on a simple, sophisticated Geoffrey Beene sundress. It was that garment—so comfortable, so pretty, so versatile—that was the beginning of what Tarr calls a twenty-five-year “addiction.” Like many great loves, this one blossomed slowly. Tarr says she never intended to wear only Geoffrey Beene clothes; in fact, she purchased things by other designers with every intention of wearing them. Still, she found herself in the same situation time and again: With her husband, Jeff Tarr, dressed and ready to leave their apartment for some event, Patsy would be racing back to her closet to change into a piece by her “beloved Beene.” 94 QUEST
JPAY h oto Z U KCER r eKOR d i t NG o ( oepp s HERE o s i te ) / SHO J L VA N KU Z U M I ( t h i s pag e )
This page: A gown of silk-jersey stripes, chenille dots, and reptileprinted satin. Opposite: A silk organza shrug trimmed in horsehair with quilted silk roses.
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SHO J L VA N KU Z U M I ( P O L K A - DOt t e d J AC K ET ) / J AY Z U K ER KOR N ( B O LEROS , SHIRT WA IST )
Since November, a selection of Tarr’s impressive, exclusive Beene wardrobe has been on display at the Phoenix Art Museum. The exhibit ends this month, and there are hints that it will travel eastward, to Washington, D.C. Anyone who knows Patsy knows that she is a woman of exquisite taste. She is regarded throughout the country as one of the most passionate, knowledgeable, and unrelenting supporters of dance. She has fostered and financially supported such choreographers as Merce Cunningham, Twyla Tharp, and newcomer sensation Jonah Bokaer. She’s also the founder of 2wice Arts Foundation, a not-for-profit that supports the performing arts through its
This page: Printed cotton shirtwaist with white cotton placket and satin belt. Opposite: Polka-dotted jacket with gathers at the collar; bolero with piquĂŠ panels lined in satin; nubby wool bolero.
grants, gifts, and publications, most noticeably, the illustrious 2wice magazine. In public and in private, everything in her life is precise, measured, and has an intelligent reason for being there (much of her apartment in the San Remo, on Central Park West, is designed by Salvatore LaRosa). In short, everything Patsy is consummately stylish and unequivocally tasteful. Patsy came to know Beene as a customer, and it was an uncanny match of stylish minds, both couturier and client alike. “Beene clothes were utterly different,” Patsy recalls. “They could be relied upon to fit exquisitely, but the consistency of the vision meant that they changed only in subtle ways from year to year.” Indeed, no item ever went out of style; every purchase Tarr made simply revealed his ideas in more depth. Geoffrey Beene remains one of America’s most original designers, a true pioneer who elevated fashion to an art. From the start of his career, in 1963, he challenged the American fashion establishment by creating visionary haute couture for women and superbly tailored styles for men that married comfort and
luxury. He received eight Coty Awards, three CFDA Awards, an honorary doctorate from the Rhode Island School of Design, and has been deemed an “American Original” by the Smithsonian. For Tarr, who says that Beene transformed her from a woman “who wished her clothes to serve her into a woman who served her clothes,” there was great privilege in reveling in Beene’s originality of design—the wit, the material, the lightness. In these pages, we present what Patsy likes to call “Beene-iana,” unique items that clearly express the designer’s sense of humor and expertise with fabric. Many of these garments are one of a kind and show what Beene could do with even a scrap of cloth; nothing, according to Tarr, was “too small or too humble to be transformed into an object both clever and beautiful.” You see here his recurrent themes—flowers, dots, curves, folds, wraps. Beene believed that his designs required a body to animate them, and so you will find a moving model here to showcase some of Patsy’s clothes. These images are but a portion of the originality that was—and still is—an American fashion legend. u
J AY Z U K ER KOR N ( O P P OSITE ) / SHO J L VA N KU Z U M I ( THIS PA G E )
This page: Evening gown with trapunto-stitched lyre neckline above jacquard midriff. Opposite: Tropical-weight wool dress with white piquĂŠ bib and black rick-back trim. M AR C H 2 0 1 0 9 9
QuesT BEST Dressed: THE LISt
2010
Best dressed of their day: French couturier Pierre Balmain fits a model. Opposite: Marisa Berenson in Chanel.
THEY’RE uptown, they’re downtown. They’re business
leaders, charity chairs. No matter what her story, each woman in the following pages has a sense of style that transcends fashion, at any age. She’s on the list: Quest Best Dressed, 2010. MARCH 2010 101
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QuesT Best Dressed: THE List
2010 There are those who are well dressed, and there are those who are best dressed. To be sure, a best-dressed woman knows something about how to wear clothes; her wardrobe becomes her. But there is something more about a best-dressed woman. She is someone with an innate style that is apparent in all that she does—from the way she dresses to the way she lives her life. For some, it’s natural, high-style élan; for others, it’s an indisputable sense of what’s au courant. We care about her as much for what she’s wearing as for what cause or business she’s working on in life. French fashion king Hubert de Givenchy once remarked that “the dress must follow the body of a woman, not the body following the shape of the dress.” We invite you to follow in these pages the women on our list. 1. Cristina de Caraman 2. Nicole Hanley 3. Kathy Rayner
PATRICK MCMULL AN / LUCIEN C APEHART (Cristina de caraman)
4. Amy Fine Collins 5. Aerin Lauder Zinterhofer 6. Joanne de Guardiola 7. Lauren Bush
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QuesT Best Dressed: THE List
2010 One of the greatest first ladies of fashion, Coco Chanel (opposite page) was a pioneer who paved the way for designers and women alike. She taught us that true style comes from remaining true to one-
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self—not from accepting or accelerating the norms of the day. At a time when women were expected to dress a certain way, Chanel pursued a modernist feminine sensibility that was influenced by menswear. Her lifelong pursuit of expensive simplicity has transcended itself in the fashion house that today carries on her name and her high style. Chanel knew that it wasn’t the clothes that made the woman. “Look for the woman in the dress,” she explained. “If there is no woman, there is no dress.” 8. Meredith Melling Burke 9. Lauren duPont 10. Cornelia Guest 11. Susan Fales-Hill 12. Carolina Herrera 13. Asia Baker 14. Julia Koch 15. Hilary Geary 16. Iris Apfel 17. Audrey Gruss
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QuesT Best Dressed: THE List
2010 Terribly simple, timelessly chic: Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis (opposite page, bottom), was the fashion icon of her day, at every age. As first lady, she ushered in sophisticated ’60s glamor; as Jackie O, she was impossibly impeccable, even when the paparazzi would catch her casually crossing the street. She continues to be one of the eternal muses of fashion, especially in the town that was her own, New York. Her secret? In a letter to Vogue editor-in-chief Diana Vreeland, a young Mrs. Kennedy explained, ever practically, “I like terribly simple, covered up clothes.” 18. Lauren Santo Domingo 19. Emilia Saint-Amand 20. Poppy Delevigne 21. Blaine Trump 22. Heather Mnuchin 23. Diana Taylor 24. Amanda Burden 25. Eleanor Lembo Ylvisaker
PATRICK McMULL AN
26. Amanda Brooks
MARCH 2010 107
ode to my mod mother By daisy prince
“Looking at my mother dressed in the apex of 1960s fashion, it’s hard to think of another era when fashion was as chic or the women looked better.”
Whenever anyone asks me who I want to come back as in
my next life, my answer has always been the same: my mother in her 1960s heyday. The shots on the following pages were taken of her in the spring of 1968, just before the May Riots in France, and the year the decade finally shrugged off its innocence. At the time the photos were taken, my mother was a twenty-four-year old Vassar graduate who had just returned to New York from two sun-soaked years in Rome. She got a job as a fashion assistant for Polly Mellen at Vogue and was going out with her future husband, my father. Modelling was never a serious ambition for my mother and these pictures were more for fun than anything else. Looking at her dressed in the apex of ’60s fashion, it’s hard to think of another era when fashion was as chic and playful or women looked better. My mother agrees. “The clothes of the ’60s flattered everyone, no matter what their age and what their shape,” she says. “The designs were very clean and simple, which suited older peoples’ figures as well.” The fashion had lost its 1950s rigidity, but, despite the decade’s free-wheeling reputation, dressing was still quite formal. “You wore a dress to the theatre, never jeans or pants—even out dancing.” When my mother talks about dancing, she can only be thinking of one place in New York—Le Club. Opened in 1960 by Oliver Coquelin, a Parisian whose family owned Le Meurice in Paris, Le Club had all the elements of a modern nightclub, a great D.J. (the then unknown Peter Duchin), reasonably interesting décor In these studio shots (taken just for fun), Diana Prince models the ’60s fashions that came to represent an era, looks that still resonate with her daughter’s generation. This page: A classic A-line mini. Opposite: A Pucci blouse. MARCH 2010 109
P h oto C r e dit G o e s HERE
“‘We had jobs, never worried where the next meal came from, went to parties, lived one day to the next, and I have to say that I felt very, very free.’”
1 1 0 Q U EST
(the tapestries and a fire made it look like a hunting lodge), and a prohibitively high joining fee ($150 for initiation and $10 a year thereafter). Throughout the decade, it was the place to party, and it earned the highest accolade ever from my father regarding a nightclub: “You could meet good backgammon players there,” he says, “And the girls weren’t too bad either.” Women took pains with their appearance for a night out at Le Club. When the decade began, women wore little dresses that climbed higher and higher until they disappeared into miniskirts, and the mini-skirts finally morphed into hot pants. And then there was that fabulous hair—super shiny tresses teased into towers of curls, complete with the key addition of falls. According to my mother, ’60s hair was about ten pounds heavier than the hair styles of other eras, but it added so much volume that it drew the eye upward and created the illusion you’d lost the pounds from your body. However, there were risks involved with extensions. Once, when my mother and father were dancing, her hairpiece fell off right in the middle of the dance floor. “Some of the other boys saw it and they started to kick it around like a football—that was the danger when wearing a fall.” The other hot spot in the ’60s was the 21 Club. My mother remembers the first time she wore a black, belted mini-skirt there and all the waiters turned to stare. Even though 21 was then, as it is now, exorbitantly expensive, she and my father
used to dine like kings on a $34 special that consisted of six freshly shucked oysters, a world-famous chicken hash, and a half bottle of white wine. Afterward, it was off to Le Club, or if my father was feeling the pinch, a dive called Pedro’s uptown where he would attempt to ply my mother with aptly named Tidal Wave cocktails. Because of her two years in Italy after college, my mother was occasionally ahead of the curve when it came to fashion in the U.S. She shocked a few beach goers in Long Island after turning up in her flower-printed Positano bikini. She couldn’t possibly see anything wrong with what she was wearing; after all, the whole of the Italian Riviera was running around in modestydefying swimsuits. Two years later, she was proved ahead of her time when the bikini exploded onto the beach scene. In hindsight, ’60s style is inextricably linked to the events of that decade that changed the world. Images of Vietnam, student protests, and Woodstock took over from Breakfast at Tiffany’s, the mini-skirt, and the Beatles. When I asked my mother what she remembers most about the era, she says it’s that there was still a sense of innocence in the air. “Of course, that was the time of the Factory and Andy Warhol and the Vietnam War, but my crowd was just having a good time in New York,” she says. “We had jobs, never worried where our next meal came from, went to parties, lived one day to the next, and I have to say that I felt very, very free.” u From jumpsuits to textured tights, ’60s style still reigns today. This page: A Pucci jumpsuit and a classic black pant suit. Opposite: Fur coats, metallics, and fun tights are still integral to a woman’s wardrobe—no matter her age. MARCH 2010 111
crafting beauty By georgina schaeffer
1 1 2 Q UE S T
American Beauty Two looks from the new exhibition “American Beauty,� on view at the Museum at F.I.T.
co u rte s y o f f. i . t.
through April 10th.
1 1 4 Q UE S T
pairings or groups of pairings designed to illustrate the “rules” of dress. The exhibition begins with designs from as early as the eighteenth century and concludes with pieces designed last year, like a Calvin Klein black wool evening jacket with paillettes designed by Francisco Costa from the Fall 2008 collection. Some one hundred pieces illustrate the conventions of day and evening wear, from the strict codes of etiquette dictated in the eighteenth century to the looser interpretations of evening wear today. Moving downstairs to the Special Exhibitions Gallery, we visit “American Beauty,” a show Mears curated as the first exhibition to explore how the “philosophy of beauty” is allied to the craft of dressmaking. With an edited perspective of just seventy-five pieces from the last hundred years, Mears selected garments for their technical ingenuity and artistic excellence, and which
represent both the high and low of fashion, from couture to ready-to-wear. “The garments are connected by one overriding criterion: They have all been created by designers who utilized the craft of dressmaking as the point of departure to create beautiful, wearable objects,” Mears says. “This focus on construction further illustrates that each designer’s method of attaining innovative shapes and forms could only have come about because craft was the central focus of the creative process.” At the end of viewing the shows, there are easy comparisons and contradictions between them, but what shines through is the inspired view of two curators in their world of historical fashion. u
co u rte s y o f f. i . t.
the museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (F.I.T.) houses one of the most impressive archives of fashion in the world, rivaled only by the Musée de la Mode in Paris, the Mode Museum in Antwerp, and the Museo de la Moda in Santiago. Plus, the Museum at F.I.T. remains the only one solely dedicated to fashion in New York City. So, when it comes to putting on its award-winning fashion exhibitions, it should come as no surprise that 100,000 students, designers, and fashion enthusiasts come to browse the galleries. On view this spring are two particularly exciting new exhibits: “American Beauty: Aesthetics and Innovation in Fashion,” curated by deputy director Patricia Mears, and “Night and Day,” curated by Molly Sorkin, associate curator of costume at F.I.T. On a recent tour of the museum, Mears and Sorkin led me first through the Fashion and Textile Gallery on the main floor, where Sorkin curated “Night and Day.” The exhibition explores the rules associated with dress according to time of day, season, social occasion, or activity. The opening juxtaposition consists of two ensembles: a velvet jacket worn with a pair of Elizabeth Arden wool plaid pants (which belonged, incidentally, to Doris Duke), perfect for a jaunty afternoon in the country, and a velvet jacket paired with a purple taffeta skirt to create a perfect dinner suit, designed by Charles James, both from the 1940s. Moving through the gallery, the viewer is presented with
Night & day “Night & Day” is on view at F.I.T.’s Fashion & Textile Gallery through May 11th. This page: A Rochas evening dress, 2004. Opposite, above: a wool clutch handbag with a watch, enamel and faux turquoise, circa 1933. Below: Pinet evening shoes in silk satin with silk embroidery, circa 1925.
julien claessens / ASSOULINE
the man behind the curtain By rachel corbett
If fabulousness and provocation have come to characterize much of contemporary fashion photography, then it comes as no surprise that Julien Claessens, whose new book of behind-the-runway photographs came out last month, is not a fashion photographer. Claessens typically shoots portraiture and architecture, but his longtime friendship with former Rochas and Nina Ricci designer Olivier Theyskens informed the intimate photographs in The Other Side of the Picture, assembled from the last ten years of Theyskens’s fashion shows. “Our intention for this book has never been to present exactly how Above: Former Rochas and Nina Ricci designer Olivier Theyskens is the subject of a new photography book, The Other Side of the Picture. Left: Kim Noorda in the Spring/Summer 2009 Nina Ricci collection. All photographs by Julien Claessens. MA R C H 2 0 1 0 1 1 7
julien cl aessens / assouline
things happen backstage,” Theyskens says. “We grabbed every opportunity to catch that crazy moment when things are sometimes disconnected from the actual atmosphere, but have a real form of beauty.” Capturing the noir narrative behind Theyskens’s ethereal, feminine designs, the moody photography depicts an almost cinematic reverence for mystery and drama. In one shot, the gaze turns from a runway model to her disembodied shadow on the wall. Through Claessens’s lens, a discarded pair of boots backstage look so rejected you almost feel sorry for them. Many times, models’ blank, black-smeared eyes cut through a haze of smoke or a blurred focus, while their bodies disappear into the background. “Each situation can lead to beautiful, mysterious, sensual, morbid, or commercial pictures,” Claessens says. “Beyond the glitter are hidden faces and people.” A few images have a commercial feel, bringing to mind perfume advertisements, but, more often than not, Claessens exalts the beauty of the fashion and women surrounding him into art. u This page, above: The cover of the Olivier Theyskens and Julien Claessens photography collaboration, published last month by Assouline. Left: Model Irina Kulikova during the Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2008 show at the Jardin des Tuileries in Paris. MA R C H 2 0 1 0 1 1 9
FA S H I O N
BACKSTAGE PASS From backstage at Bryant Park, to after-parties at GoldBar, Quest takes you through a photo diary of New York Fashion Week. By DANIEL CAPPELLO
Row 1 Readying up for the runway: designer Naeem Khan; Gary Van Dis and Carrie Cloud at Naeem Khan; Ranjana Khan and the jewelry she designed for the show. Row 2 Anamaria Wilson of Harper’s Bazaar at Christian Cota; the pass to fashion. Row 3 Christian Cota’s presentation at the Altman Building: Liv Odegard and Michel Heredia; Anna Wintour takes in the collection; Gabriel Rivera-Barraza and Alexa Rodulfo. Opposite Melissa George joins “it” designer Christian Cota at his presentation, which was inspired by Cubist interpretations of
M I M I R I T Z E N C R A WF O R D ( A LL P H OTO G R A P H S )
de- and re-constructing dresses.
MARCH 2010 121
FA S H I O N
BACKSTAGE PASS
Clockwise from top: Designer Gilles Mendel at J. Mendel, in the Salon at Bryant Park; Tibi designer Amy Smilovic and Tibi’s Liz Walker; Matt Jackson and Andie Livengood at the Tibi afterparty at GoldBar; Chessie Wilson and friend.
TWEETING ON THE SCENE Row 1 The tables are turned: Quest fashion editor Daniel Cappello caught this pic of Quest photographer Mimi Ritzen Crawford with his iPhone; TwitPic of a model at the LVMH + Parsons School of Design party at Milk Studios; the glare of the cameras caught on phone at the Hervé Léger runway show at Bryant Park. Row 2 More TwitPics from The Art of Craftsmanship Revisited party sponsored by LVMH + Parsons School of Design. Row 3 Craftsmanship revisited by the iPhone
M I M I R I T Z E N C R A WF O R D ( A LL P H OTO G R A P H S ) / DA N I E L C A P P E LLO ( T W itpic S )
camera: Tweets from LVMH + Parsons.
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walking on sunshine by hilary geary
From left: Jerry Seay, Pauline Pitt, Jamee Gregory and Gail Theodoracopulos; George Pataki and Earle Mack at the American International Art Fair.
Off to Palm Beach, where the weather started off cold and rainy and then— hoorah!—finally turned to sunshine. Wilbur and I hosted our New York pals Jamee and Peter Gregory for the weekend so we were on the go. First, we headed over to ArtPalmBeach, a show at the convention center in West Palm Beach with sixty-nine dealers. In the evening, we stopped by famed photographer Mary Hilliard’s for a “pop,” then headed to Café Boulud for the Glades Academy benefit dinner that the adorable Emilia Fanjul works tirelessly on. 124 QUEST
The event is dubbed “A Night of Expectations,” and it’s a favorite of mine for dozens of reasons! First and foremost, providing support for the school is a very worthy cause. Second, it’s like a private party with everyone you know and love, plus scrumptious Daniel cuisine. Between courses, Sotheby’s Eliza Osborne auctioned off countless goodies, including a pair of earrings by the talented French jeweler Frederic Beziat and a week-long stay at a fully staffed oceanfront house at Casa de Campo, a sportsman’s paradise in the Dominican Republic.
Among the guests: Pepe Fanjul, Raysa and Alfy Fanjul, Lourdes and Pepe Fanjul, Jr., Serena Boardman, Boykin and Celerie Curry, Kate Ford and Frank Chopin, Carol and Earle Mack, Kate Gubelmann, Toinette Boalt, Grace Meigher, Paul Wilmot, Steven Stolman, Gillian and Sylvester Miniter, Kate and Hashem Khosrovani, Ed and Susan Elson, Cynthia Boardman, Tom Quick, Lorna and Larry Graev, Karin Luter, Don Burns, Greg Connors, Jeannie and Dick Pearman, and more. The next day, we joined Karen
and Richard LeFrak at the Trump International Golf Club for lunch. This first-class golf course, designed by Jim Fazio, is a treat to play, always challenging and ranked in Golf magazine’s top onehundred U.S. courses. We had a casual lunch and even spotted Donald Trump, fresh off the course. Afterward, Jamee and Peter scouted Worth Avenue for her New York Social Diary shopping column. On Saturday night, we headed to Raysa and Alfy Fanjul’s dazzling waterfront house for a small, seated dinner. Raysa is more beautiful than a movie star, and their house more glam than any Hollywood set. The sun-filled home sits right on the Intercoastal and is filled with magnificent artwork and treasures. After about forty-five minutes—just the right amount of time for cocktails—we sat down for a flawless dinner of pasta, fish, and a
welcome him as honorary chair of the Red Cross Designer Show House. I’m sure you know that Smith is Obama’s official White House decorator and is also on Architectural Digest’s best designers list. He has clients such as Cindy Crawford, Kate Capshaw, Steven Spielberg, Dustin Hoffman, Michelle Pfeiffer...the list goes on. Smith has also penned several beautiful books, including the Elements of Style. Among the guests were Talbott Maxey, Kelly LeBrock, Grace and Chris Meigher, Kenn Karakul, Ashton and Margo De Peyster, Parker Ladd and Arnold Scaasi. After tennis the next day, we dropped into the Holden Luntz Gallery for coffee and a book signing by Harry Benson for his new tome, Harry Benson: Photographs, with an introduction by John Loring. That night we headed to Mar-a-Lago
so ambassadors from all over the world, flown in from D.C. on Donald Trump’s plane, attended the festive event. The charming ambassadors added a glam, international mood to the soirée. Michele and Howard Kessler had entertained them all at a seated dinner the night before. Ambassador Nancy Brinker, who was getting up early the next morning for the Susan B. Komen Race For the Cure in West Palm, was at our table. Nancy, who founded the race in honor of her late sister, just received the nation’s highest civil award, the Medal of Freedom from President Obama. After the race, the group headed to a discussion panel, moderated by Senator Bill Nelson, with Mexican Ambassador Arturo Sarukhan Casamitjana, along with amabassadors from Afghanistan and Eygpt. The next week we attended the
From left: Nancy Brinker; Wilbur Ross and Michael Kors at the designer’s fashion show in Palm Beach; Karen LeFrak and Donald Trump.
poached-pear dessert. Perfection! Among the lucky guests were former Canadian Prime Minister Brian Mulroney and his beautiful wife Mila, Pauline Pitt and Jerry Seay, Gail and Harry Theodoracopulos, Michele and Howard Kessler, Joanne and Roberto de Guardiola, Damon and Liz Mezzacappa, Terry Kramer and Nick Simunek, Wilbur Ross, and our houseguests, the Gregorys. On the next Friday night, we went to Club Colette for a cocktail party given by landscape designer Mario Nievera to toast interior designer Michael Smith and
for a Michael Kors fashion show to kick off the Heart Ball. We were greeted by chairman Petra Levin, along with hosts Patrick Park, Nathalie Fernandez, and the star designer himself! Michael’s dazzling collection was adorned with Graff jewels and modeled by a glamorous pool under the stars. I spotted Don and Muffy Miller, Howard and Michele Kessler, Mai Harrison, and Kristy and Jim Clark. It was back to Mar-a-Lago the next weekend for the Red Cross Ball, brilliantly chaired by Michele Kessler, Susan Keenan, and Mary Mochary. A dozen or
American International Art Fair. There were so many goodies: the beautiful furniture at Malletts, the Van Gogh at the Dickinson Gallery, the display of Chinese artists, and, of course, the rocks from Graff, Van Cleef, Richters, Sabbadini, and Tiffany! Among the opening night crowd was George Pataki with Ambassador Earle Mack, Paige Rense, John Loring, Mario Buatta, Harry and Gigi Benson, Lars Bolander and Nadine Kalachnikoff, and Mai Harrison. It’s been a very bright Palm Beach season, indeed! u MARCH 2 0 1 0 1 2 5
PETS
MY FAVORITE THINGS mom calls me her little snow monster because, as you can see in this picture, I can’t get enough of the stuff. I zoom and frolic across the snowy fields in Central Park, but I also enjoy mountain-climbing the curbside banks after a storm. On a recent morning, my friend Gidget (pictured at right) was with her dad, photographer Martino Roselli, who captured our fun! with georgina schaeffer
• Goofy Lau
Quest Pets: For more information on the
Things I love: car rides, squirrels, playing soccer, tennis
products mentioned here, visit our blog at
balls, Italian restaurants, bread and butter, playing in the
questmag.wordpress.com. To submit your pet
snow, beef jerky, sleeping in late, and carpets.
photos, email them to info@questmag.com.
126 QUEST
Marcus Caelius Rufus (a.k.a. Rufus) Like most of my friends, my favorite part of the day is off-leash time in the park (especially with dog treats at Knish Knosh). I also love baby arugula, Quality Meats leftovers, and my first toy, Snuggle Puppy.
•
• Chutney Dobson A few of my favorite things: running off-leash in Central Park with my friends at the 62nd Street hill (where I met Pepper), going to doggy day care at 75th and Paws when my mommy and daddy go to work.
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They have yummy treats and comfy couches, and they even put on movies for us in the afternoon!
Gidget Roselli
On the weekends, Dad brings me to the park to
play with my friends and then makes a warm bowl of rice and kibble. After breakfast I make a nest in the sofa pillows and watch cartoons.
• •
• Milly Hilton I love running on the beach, squeaky toys (especially
Liberace Adler-Doonan I love this portait of me and my two
monkeys), all my pretty coats (my current favorite is a purple plaid one from
dads, taken by famous photographer Charity de Meer, who shoots pets at their
Canine Styles), my dog walkers Colin
parents’ feet. “Dad likes it so much he represents her at Jonathan Adler!”
and Shane Mehigan, and rawhide!
MA R C H 2 0 1 0 1 2 7
S NA P S HO T
Button UP nd On east 62 The GOLD BUTTON has hung outside the
townhouse on East 62nd Street since 1968, when the store moved downtown from its original home on East 77th Street. But the button has not always been gold. “It started with a pink button, but that was ridiculous,” says Millicent Safro, the owner of the button and of Tender Buttons, the shop outside which it hangs. Upgraded over the years, the button has had adventures of its own: “I once got a call in the middle of the night,” remembers Millicent, “saying, ‘we found your button in a trash can on 68th and Third,’ and of course we ran to retrieve it.” Inside the tiny door below this golden trademark lies a spice market of buttons, millions of them, living in miniature drawers. There are ordinary buttons, fantastic buttons, antique buttons, antler, rhinestone, ivory, and gold buttons. Millicent also once lived here, in her own tiny drawer of sorts, the eleven-foot wide apartment upstairs. “It was very sweet,” she says, “we looked out the little 128 QUEST
window at night—the city was illuminated like a Berenice Abbott photograph.” Millicent and her late partner, Diana Epstein, slipped into this career “quite by accident,” in the 1960s, upon buying a huge amount of buttons “just because they were so interesting.” Since then, Tender Buttons has been “helping the economy by selling one button at a time,” says Millicent, who has a bold-faced clientele, including Julia Roberts, Sidney Poitier, Catherine Deneuve, Julie Andrews, and Kermit, the frog, whose trench coat’s buttons are Tender ones. Tender Buttons is part of what makes New York magical—a city where some dream of living and where some live and never leave. Each of these tender buttons, from a different place, a different time, has its own story—not unlike the New Yorkers who have passed under that gold button each day for decades. —Rebecca Morse Tender Buttons is located at 143 East 62nd Street. Above, images from Millicent Safro and Diana Epstein’s book Buttons (Abrams, 1991).
ESCAPE IN STYLE
CAL L
1 - 8 8 8 - 9 WA G N E R
O R
V I S I T
S H E R L E WA G N E R . C O M
R O YA L O A K C O L L E C T I O N
MONDAY - SATURDAY 10 A.M. - 6 P.M., SUNDAY 12 P.M. - 5 P.M.
BAL ANC E OF FOR CES S T E E L C H R O N O G R APH WI TH SMAL L SE CO NDS AN D DAT E DISPLAY, SELF WIN DIN G AU DEM ARS PIGU ET M OVEM EN T. WATE R -R E SI STANT TO 5 0 ME TE R S.
ALSO AVAILABLE IN YELLOW GOLD, IN WHITE GOLD AND IN PINK GOLD.
www.audemarspiguet.com