Quest May 2016 by QUEST Magazine

$5.00 MAY 2016

THE JEWELRY ISSUE

DIAMONDS AND SWANS AT AMERICAN BALLET THEATRE

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CONTENTS The Jewelry I ssue 106

SWANS WHO SPARKLE

Spring always signals the opening of American

Ballet Theatre’s season at the Met, so Quest heads to the ABT studios to pair several stars of dance with some of the greatest creations in the high-jewelry world—from Harry Winston and Verdura to Bulgari, Fabergé, and Van Cleef & Arpels. dIrecTed and sTyled by

116

A HIGH PRICE TO PAY

d anIel cappello,

phoTographed by

JulIe s karraTT

From our 2004 archives, a look at some of history’s most

famous jewels—with a bad-luck twist. These are the pieces with stories of intrigue behind them, proving that maybe some things should be kept under lock and key...

122

JAMES’S GORGEOUS GEMS

At the Madison Avenue showroom of Taffin,

James de Givenchy creates unique and spectacular pieces, with a dazzling eye for color and the perfect blend of French style and American modernity. by lIly hoagland

126

TIME KEEPERS

Rounding up the latest and greatest men’s watches on the

market. Plus: Highlights from Baselworld 2016, and a look at how sales techniques are evolving in the watch world. by alex Travers

136

THE ART OF THE CRAFT

Betteridge continues to stand out in the jewelry world

for its devotion to detail and artisanal craftsmanship.

danIel cappello

126 116

CONTENTS 72

c olumns 20

SOCIAL DIARY

HARRY BENSON

THE SPRING IN YOUR STEP

AT THE VEAU

Reminiscing with Cecily Langdale about her husband Roy Davis.

FRESH FINDS

From octopus brooches to starfish earrings, it’s a sea of jewelry.

RESTORATION

MUSIC

REAL ESTATE

PHILANTHROPY

TRAVEL

OPEN HOUSE

336 West 12th Street is renovated with a nod to a former era—one with “horse walks.”

REAL ESTATE

The private, gated community of Williams Island is known for its amenity-rich lifestyle.

BOOKS

102

SOCIAL CALENDAR

140

YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST

144

SNAPSHOT

Remembering the icons of the screen and their jewels... by davId paTrIck columbIa During the summer of 1961, our columnist photographed Mrs. John F. Kennedy. This season, Central Park is for lovers. by TakI Theodoracopulos

m Ichael T homas

danIel cappello

Michael Bruno tells us his grand plan to revitalize Tuxedo Park.

lIly hoagland

Internationally acclaimed virtuoso pianist Lola Astanova brings dynamic presence to every stage. Realize an escape from the city—and the Hamptons—in Pennsylvania’s Bucks County. The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering celebrates 70 years.

Casa de Campo is a Caribbean resort with a focus on families.

A review and an excerpt of Chuck Pfeifer’s autobiography, Daiwi.

lIly hoagland

elIzabeTh QuInn brown

JamIe macguIre

Our guide to the most exciting events and galas in New York City this season. The scene in the city that never sleeps.

elIzabeTh Q uInn brown

Man’s best friend takes to social media at American Ballet Theatre.

danIel cappello

“Without question he was a revolutionary, the one who changed everything. Fulco made it all modern.” — Babs Simpson former fashion editor, Vogue

T O DAY The Bubbles Necklace and The Fulco Necklace

7 4 5 f i f t h av e n u e – 1 2 t h f l o o r , n e w y o r k verdura.com

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questmag.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

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TERRY ALLEN HARRY BENSON CAPEHART PHOTOGRAPHY BILLY FARRELL MARY HILLIARD CRISTINA MACAYA CUTTY MCGILL PATRICK MCMULLAN ANNIE WATT

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Clockwise from top left: Posing pretty with the team behind the cover shoot; Elizabeth Taylor and her infamous diamond; Betteridge artisans at work; Taffin’s brightly colored gems.

Holmes took up the stone and held it against the light. “It’s a bonny thing,” said he. “Just see how it glints and sparkles. Of course it is a nucleus and focus of crime. Every good stone is.”—Arthur Conan Doyle SINCE HUMANS FIRST STARTED putting on clothes and using tools thousands of years ago, they have also sought to decorate themselves, using bits of feathers, bones, or shells to showcase their status or personality. We have learned extensively about different eras’ and civilizations’ jewelry trends thanks to the ancient custom of burying the dead with their richest garments and ornaments. So we wonder: What will future historians understand about us through our current designs and materials? Will they puzzle over our devotion to diamonds and why we’re gaga for gold? Or will these traditions still be passed down, impervious to whatever new creations arise? (I, for one, look forward to when someone invents a chameleon jewel that adapts to its surroundings, with the marketing slogan of “That’s A Gem Of A Different Color.”) Back to the present, where the swans of American Ballet Theatre perform fouetté turns in Fabergé and a brisé volé in Bulgari—because what better way to showcase jewelry 18 QUEST

than on the lively, graceful limbs of a ballerina. We also take a look back on some of the most famous pieces in history with infamous bad luck; stop by James de Givenchy’s Taffin showroom to look over his exquisite designs; pull together our annual watch round-up for the top ticks and tocks; look through the loupe of family jeweler Betteridge; and left no precious stone unturned for our Jewelry Issue. u

Lily Hoagland

ON THE COVER: American Ballet Theatre’s Melanie Hamrick dresses up in a diamond necklace and earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels as fellow swan Brittany DeGrofft, in a diamond Bulgari necklace, looks on. Part of “Swans Who Sparkle,” directed by Daniel Cappello and photographed by Julie Skarratt.

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houses and were waited on by butlers and maids in uniforms. But I never knew or heard about the jewelry, except in fairy tales or movies about pirates and treasure chests. My first awareness of the awesomeness of jewelry was when I was first living in New

York, right out of college. I knew a girl who lived with her family in a big apartment on Park Avenue with 18 rooms occupying a whole floor. One night, my friend invited me to dinner. (Home-cooked meals were always a treat for this new boy in town trying to

make his way.) When I arrived at the apartment, my friend told me that we would be having dinner with “mummy,” a lady I had not yet met. She had been ill with some affliction never specifically defined. So on this night at the appointed hour

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when dinner was to be served, we didn’t go into the dining room but into mummy’s bedroom: a large room with a crystal chandelier and a fireplace that was furnished with 18th-century French antiques, including chairs which I later learned were called Bergères. My friend’s mother was a beautiful woman—beautiful like a movie star. She was sitting up in a large, king-sized bed with green-gray satin sheets. Her blonde hair had deep, dark roots (something else this yokel had never seen before). She was older to these young eyes but, as I later learned, she was only in 22 QUEST

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her early forties. Wearing a rich, bright green, silk blouse, she was fully made up and her beauty was enhanced by the rich red of her lipstick and the mascara around her eyes. This was the wonder of the city: there was real glamour before me. But what was stunning, and otherworldly, to these unsophisticated eyes were the very large emerald-drop earrings she was wearing that matched her silk blouse—and completing this extraordinary image that remains set in memory to this day. I’d seen emeralds in photos (probably in the movies) and I knew they were a deep

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green stones. But I had never seen the real thing, let alone on a beautiful woman in bed. It wasn’t so much the actual—which were large and impressive—but their role in this mise en scène. It was another entirely unfamiliar lifestyle to me. After that, I saw my friend’s mother occasionally when I visited the apartment. And I saw the emeralds again. Much later, I learned that she had a large collection of precious jewels, most of which had belonged to her late mother, an American heiress. Two years after that first meeting, my friends mother died after what

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had been for her a sad and unhappy life. But that was long ago, and now I’ve lived my adult life in New York and in Los Angeles (which I like to think of as Hollywood), where jewelry is a staple among many of the rich. Jewelry always serves to enhance, dazzle, and fascinate. In modern times, jewels have become jewelry. A woman’s dominion. And that makes sense. “Get that ice or else no dice” (as the song goes) is real life in the fast lane and in the big time, where money talks and nobody walks. To me, it’s the dramatic element, but it’s also beautiful art.

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A Mrs. Astor got that ice. Caroline Webster Schermerhorn Astor, the lady who dominated society in the Gilded Age of New York, loved diamonds. She loved them so much that when she gave her famous annual ball in January she sat on her throne greeting her guests and, as reported again and again, was resplendent in so many diamonds that people privately referred to her as the “chandelier” lighting her Fifth Avenue ballroom. No one thought Mrs. Astor was overdoing it, dripping in diamonds. No one thought of doing the same thing, however, or would have dared to as a guest of the lady known as the Mrs. Astor. It reminds me

From left: Caroline Webster Schermerhorn Astor, a.k.a. The Mrs. Astor; Elizabeth Taylor wears her diamond tiara (c. 1880) with diamond earrings and a diamond necklace—gifts from her second husband, Mike Todd, who died when his plane crashed in 1958.

of a story about the late Lydia Mendelsohn Buhl Morrison, heiress to an automotive fortune who acquired a very

large diamond solitaire that she wore all the time. When a friend first saw her wearing it, she advised that it was so big it

looked vulgar. Morrison took it off and gave it to her friend to try it on, and so the friend did. “Now it doesn’t look so vulgar, does it?” she asked. In the 1920s, 1930s, and 1940s, and into the 1950s and early 1960s, expensive jewels—diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires—were frequently a wealthy man’s gift to a lady he wanted to impress, including the wife. In the 1950s, there was an up-andcoming film director at MGM who was romancing a very young and beautiful Elizabeth Taylor recently divorced from her first husband: Conrad “Nicky” Hilton, Jr. The director was a virile young man on the make and to have an affair

T H E C I N E M A S O C I E T Y S C R E E N E D T H E J U N G L E B O O K W I T H A N A F T E R - PA R T Y AT T H E S K YL A R K

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A with Taylor was like money in the bank, in addition to experiencing the ultimate arm candy and playtime in the bed. So when he came to call, he brought the beautiful young star gifts of his affection. It may have been the beginning of her connoisseurship of precious gems. So great was the director’s passion and generosity that it got to a point where he was spending money he didn’t have on baubles for Taylor. He ended up paying a big bill with a bad check called insufficient funds. However, at MGM, stars had fairy godmothers. When it became known to the studio brass that the director had blown his bank account for their star, the last thing they wanted to do was embarrass their star or request that she return her divine gifts. The solution was simple: the studio made good the director’s bad check. His career flourished, the affair continued (and eventually ended), and

Lady Sylvia Ashley with her second husband, Douglas Fairbanks.

everybody was happy. Diamonds in the Rain. She was born Edith Louisa Sylvia Hawkes in Paddington in London in 1904. The daughter of a poor pub keeper and his wife, the girl ran away from home at age 15 and became a lingerie model and, later a “Cochran Dancer” in musical revues produced by

Sir Charles Cochran (the British version of Broadway’s Florenz Ziegfeld). For a performer, it was a favorable job. For an ambitious, very pretty young women, it was a ticket to the stars. When Sylvia was 22 and dancing in one of those Cochran revues, she met Anthony Ashley-Cooper who was known as Lord Ashley and was heir to the 9th Earl of Shaftsbury. They married a year later in 1927. A cousin of the baron was Edwina Ashley who was married to Lord Louis “Dickie” Mountbatten. Edwina’s grandfather, Sir Ernest Cassel, was one of the richest and most powerful men in Europe and he had been a longtime personal friend and private financier to the future King Edward VII. Sylvia had married up, way up, becoming Lady Ashley. Alas, the marriage was not destined to last. In 1933, through the Mountbatten connection, Sylvia met Douglas Fair-

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A “ L O OT : M A D A B O U T J E W E L R Y ” B E N E F I T AT M U S E U M O F A R T A N D D E S I G N

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banks, the most famous leading man in the world of silent films who was married to the most famous film actress of that era, Mary Pickford. Pickford and Fairbanks were known as the King and Queen of Hollywood. The couple, along with D.W. Griffith and Charlie Chaplin, had been so successful throughout the late 1910s and 1920s that the four had become partners and founded their own studio, United Artists. So famous were Fairbanks and Pickford in the world that, when Edwina Ashley married Lord Louis Mountbatten in 1922, the newlyweds honeymooned in Beverly Hills at “Pickfair”— 28 QUEST

Barbara Taylor and Robert Bradford

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the estate of Pickford and Fairbanks on Summit Drive. In 1934, Lord Ashley filed for divorce and named the King of Hollywood as co-respondent. Two years later, in March 1936, with both Sylvia and Fairbanks divorced from their spouses, they married. He was 53 and she was 32 (while she admitted only to 30). Three years later, in December 1939, Fairbanks died in his sleep of a heart attack at age 56, leaving Sylvia the bulk of his considerable fortune. Five years later, Lady Sylvia Ashley (as she was known in the American press) married another British lord, Edward Stanley, 6th Baron Stanley of

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Alderley. That marriage lasted for four years. The following year, in 1949, she married Clark Gable, the movie star who had succeeded Fairbanks as the King of Hollywood. Meeting at a party he had attended with socialite Dolly O’Brien of Palm Beach, Gable was immediately drawn to the English lady who, for him, bore a great resemblance to his late wife Carol Lombard (who had died in a plane crash a few years before). By then, Lady Sylvia Ashley had become a popular figure in Hollywood life and society. She became a close friend of stars such as Norma Shearer (who was also the leading

stockholder at MGM after her husband, Irving Thalberg, died) and Loretta Young. She moved with Gable to his 20-acre ranch in Encino in the San Fernando Valley. She loved the film colony social life where—with her British title—she was a special kind of star. She frequently gave dinner parties, filling the house with glittering guests, relatives, and friends from abroad. A year into the marriage, however, Gable had already had enough of “her ladyship” with the “champagne voice” and extravagant ways. One night when she was soaking in the bath, he walked in and said, “I want a divorce” and walked

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A out. They became officially divorced after a year of separation in 1952. Two years later, she married again to a Georgian (the country) racecar driver and hotel developer, H.R.H. Prince Dmitri Djordjadze. In her great career as a wife of British and European nobility and Hollywood royalty, the former Edythe Louisa Sylvia Hawkes from Paddington enjoyed a highlife of luxury, fame, and glamorous society on two continents. Not surprisingly, she also acquired the taste and yen for life’s luxuries, including a substantial collection of jewels (all gifts) that—like other women of means of her generation—she wore frequently day and night. And so it happened on one stormy afternoon during the rainy season in Southern California: her ladyship was driven down to the business section of Rodeo Drive with several of her best pieces (di-

María Félix

amond bracelets, necklaces, rings, and earrings) in a leather bag to take them to be cleaned. Arriving at the jewelers, the rain was coming down so hard that it was creating rushing rivers that were flooding the curbside. Lady Sylvia Ashley, attempting to make a dash for it, dropped the bag

into the gutter. In what must have been a millisecond, the jewels poured out of the bag into the rushing waters. They were instantly submerged into the sewer grating before their owner could save anything; all those gleaming diamonds in need of cleaning were swept way into the Pacific forever. Ownership and possession of precious jewels often have a drama of gain or loss, although not always as deeply exasperating as Lady Sylvia Ashley’s story. Over the weekend, as I was cleaning out (or rather, attempting to put some order to some of my files)I came upon this story that a friend of mine, the Cuban-born American fashion designer Luis Estévez, once told me about María Félix the Mexican movie star of the 1940s and 1950s. I recorded his recollection: “I knew her very well. We had a marvelous relationship. She was beautifully over-

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A T H E T R I B EC A B A L L AT T H E N E W YO R K AC A D E MY O F A R T

Misha Nonoo

the-top dramatic and daringly dangerous and desirable. And by dramatically dangerous, I mean she was very upfront. We met in 1959 in Acapulco just before Acapulco had its golden era. It was at a dinner party at Natasha and Jacques Gelman’s. He was the manager of Cantinflas, the great Mexican comedy star. Now, María Félix played to men and to women. She was a sexual goddess and both men and women fell madly in love with her. On this night that we met, I knew who she was of course, but she came right up to me and said: ‘We’re going to be friends.’ She won me immediately. 32 QUEST

Marina Abramovic

Bob Colacello

Eileen Guggenheim and Nicolas Bos

This was after she divorced Agustin Lara, the great composer who had been madly in love with her and had written one of his most famous songs for her. It was sung over and over: ‘Maréa Bonita’ After that marriage was over because he was older, she met this very handsome, very popular Mexican star, Jorge Negrette. Jorge was so passionately in love with her, the story goes, that shortly after their wedding he died—he was very young—while making love to her. Good story, true or not, and very dramatic just like Maria. Whatever, one of the most famous stories about María

Ali Wise

Michael Chow and David Kratz

Félix had to do with that marriage. Jorge Negrette did, indeed, die shortly after he and Maria [Editor’s Note: He died of cancer.] But not long before they married, he had given her the most extravagant expensive suite of cut emeralds mounted with diamonds from Cartier: a necklace, a bracelet, earrings, and a very big ring before big rings were the thing. After he died, Maria discovered that the jewels hadn’t yet been paid for. The jewelers of course came to María Félix for the money but she refused to pay. So, naturally, they wanted her to return the suite of emeralds and diamonds. María Félix, in her true,

strong style of dealing with anything, looked at them and said: ‘Lo dado es dado.’ (What is given is given.) And of course, after that she went off to Paris, changed her whole life at that moment, and met Freddie, a famous lesbian who owned a very popular nightclub called Freddie’s. Now, María Félix was a total bisexual. She loved men and she loved women. She loved to be passionate and dramatic. And that’s what made her such a star. So love bloomed like a fierce wind in the tropics, engulfing María Félix in a storm of passion. It was during that storm that she enchanted her

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

Brooke Shields with Sterling Jerins

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A

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Drew Barrymore

new lover with a gift of her big diamond and emerald ring from Cartier that Negrette had given her. However, fate again stepped in, and after a year and a half of bliss, everything went kaput and Maria asked Freddie to give back the diamond and emerald ring. She said something like: ‘Give them back, bitch.’ But Freddie turned to Maria and said: ‘Lo dado es dado.’ They ended the relationship with an out-and-out, over-the-top-fight. María Félix, unbowed, returned to her glamorous life as a star and married a rich Frenchman who owned racehorses. It was after that, when Maria came back to Acapulco, that she and I became tremendous friends. She was famous for always being late. That was so she could make an entrance, of course: You plan it,

Christine Mack and Natasha Bell

you look better than anybody, and you’re more famous than anybody. There’s the drama. I recall one time at a huge luncheon for a hundred or more in a sunken patio garden in Las Brisas when María Félix arrived and everybody was already seated at all their tables, with the mariachis playing and the crowd chatting. All of a sudden the mariachi stopped. They had seen María Félix arriving at the top of the broad, wide steps, and they started to play Lara’s famous love song to her: ‘María bonita, María del alma…’ Suddenly everybody looked up and there she was: dazzling, shimmering, ready for her close-up. The hostess got up and ran over to greet her. Everyone was quiet. The hostess began to escort her to her place. María Félix stopped her, holding up her hand.

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A ‘No,’ she said to her hostess. ‘I want to sit there,’ she declared, pointing in my direction. ‘Next to Luis Estévez.’ And so, of course she did. When she got to my side we kissed and she said: ‘Como te gusto esta entrada?’ (How do you like that entrance?)” Meanwhile back to the Big Town. It’s the middle of the spring social season with galas, dinners, and screenings. One night, I started out over to the Time Warner Center for the New York premiere of a HBO’s Nothing Left Unsaid with Gloria Vanderbilt and her son, Anderson Cooper—a documentary by Liz Garbus. I got there after the cocktail reception was breaking up to go into the screening room so I didn’t see Gloria, although I’ll assume she was there. There were a lot of people attending who are friends and have

known her for a long time. She is a woman who has lots of friends. I’ve known her since the early 90s. I met her when I was working on a project that I interviewed her for. She’s the only very famous person I have met and known who, in personal relationships, continues to have that charisma that gives her such an allure to the world. She’s nice to know. And fun. And gentle. And girlish. And clever, and warm, and well-attached to what is wise. She told me once that, when she was at the height of her business success with the GV Jeans, a woman came out of the crowd at a personal appearance/sales event one day and said to her: “Congratulations on your life!” She was so affected she almost came undone by the acknowledgement. In a very real way, this

documentary, which is shared by her and her son interviewing her, is about that life-long strife. Watch it. You won’t be able to take your eyes off of it. Gloria, who turned 92 last February 24, was the original “Poor Little Rich Girl”—a label assigned to her by the New York tabloids during the Great Depression when there were actually millions of little American girls who were just poor. Gloria’s story was an antidote: similar but different from the Hollywood stories about the very rich. Books have been written about her: most famously Barbara Goldsmith’s 1980 biography, Little Gloria, Happy at Last. Still a great read. Multi-marriages, first to a would-be gangster named Pat DiCicco when she was 17; then to maestro Leopold Stokowski when she was 20 (and he was 63) with whom

she had two sons; and then to stage and film director Sidney Lumet, who was “age appropriate” (he was four months younger than she); and finally to a Southern boy, Wyatt Cooper, who was three years her junior and came to the Big Town from Mississippi to seek his fortune—or his future— and met it when he met her. It was a life created in what we now call the media and what we used to call the press. It was a combination of an innocence and naiveté reacting to the elements in her life, as well as a shrewdness that perhaps can be credited to great-great-grandfather Commodore Cornelius Vanderbilt, who established the family name. Her credentials were that name, established by the man who was the richest man in the world when he died in the last quarter of the 19th century.

G A R D E N C L U B O F A M E R I C A H E L D A P R E V I E W AT T H E D I X O N G A R D E N S I N M E M P H I S

Mary Wilbourn and Cary Brown

Brenda Cain and Jean Coors with Kevin Sharp and Erin Riordan 36 QUEST

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ORAL ORAL REPRESENTATIONS REPRESENTATIONS CANNOT CANNOT BE RELIED BE RELIED UPON UPON AS CORRECTLY AS CORRECTLY STATING STATING REPRESENTATIONS REPRESENTATIONS OF THE OF THE DEVELOPER. DEVELOPER. FOR FOR CORRECT CORRECT REPRESENTATIONS, REPRESENTATIONS, MAKE MAKE REFERENCE REFERENCE TO THE TO THE DOCUMENTS DOCUMENTS REQUIRED REQUIRED BY SECTION BY SECTION 718.503, 718.503, FLORIDA FLORIDA STATUTES, STATUTES, TO BE TOFURNISHED BE FURNISHED BY THE BY THE DEVELOPER DEVELOPER TO ATO BUYER A BUYER OR LESSEE. OR LESSEE. Obtain Obtain the property the property report report required required by federal by federal law and law read and read it before it before signing signing ORALNo REPRESENTATIONS RELIED UPON STATING REPRESENTATIONS THE FOR REPRESENTATIONS, MAKE REFERENCE TOifmade THE DOCUMENTS REQUIRED BY 718.503, FLORIDA STATUTES, TO FURNISHED THE DEVELOPER TOoffer A solicitation BUYER ORcannot LESSEE. the property report required by federal lawspirit and read it before signing anything. anything. federal No federal agency agency has CANNOT judged has judged theBE merits the merits or value, or value, if AS any,ifCORRECTLY of any, this of property. this property. This This offering offering is made is made only only byOF the by Prospectus theDEVELOPER. Prospectus for the for condominium theCORRECT condominium and no andstatement no statement should should be relied be relied uponupon if not not made in theinProspectus the Prospectus for anforoffer an SECTION offer to sell, to or sell, solicitation or solicitation of offers of offers to buy, to buy, the condominium the BE condominium unitsunits inBY states in states where where suchsuch offer or or solicitation cannot be Obtain made. be made. We are Wepledged are pledged to the toletter the letter and the andspirit the of U.S. of U.S. policy policy for the for the anything.ofNo federal agency has judged value, if any, ofsupport this support property. This offering is made only bymarketing the Prospectus thewhich condominium and noto statement should beon relied ifofnot incolor, the forhandicap, an offer tofamilial sell, orstatus solicitation of offers to buy, the condominium units in states where such offer or solicitation cannot be made. We are pledged to the letter and the spirit of U.S. policy for the achievement achievement equal of equal housing housing throughout throughout thethe nation. themerits nation. Weorencourage We encourage and and an affirmative an affirmative advertising advertising and marketing and program program infor which in therethere are no arebarriers no barriers obtaining to obtaining housing housing the onupon basis the basis race, ofmade race, color, sex,Prospectus sex, religion, religion, handicap, familial status or national or national origin. origin. achievement of equal housing throughout the nation. We encourage and support an affirmative advertising and marketing program in which there are no barriers to obtaining housing on the basis of race, color, sex, religion, handicap, familial status or national origin.

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A AN EVENING WITH GARDENS CONSERVANCY AT T H E A N N N O R TO N S C U L P T U R E G A R D E N S I N PA L M B E AC H

Cindy Sulzberger and Steven Green

AngleRealEstate.com C 561.629.3015 00 QUEST

Karyn Lamb and David Gochman

Susan Cochran and Robert Eigelberger

As a figure in 20th-century American culture, Gloria’s life can be qualified as a fable. The denouement of American Society of the Gilded Age. The “Sunset Boulevard” of society stories. There is no one like her. There have been lots of heiresses (and many far richer) but none who could make a nine-decade life into a motion picture story with a shelf life to rival the classic myths. Gloria had a natural yen for public attention (which we call publicity) that was borne of a childhood lived under photographer’s flashbulbs and newsreels. This was an accident of the Fates but, by her teenage years, she longed to be an actress—to be worthy of attention that she’d been getting publicly as a child as well as the presumed subsequent adoration of the public. Her marriage to Sidney Lumet was possibly motivated by that yearn-

Jack Staub and Mieke Van Waveren

Debbie and Bob Dunkin

ing although, despite his being a distinguished director, he couldn’t turn Gloria’s longing into a great talent. That she would have to do for herself. And she did. This film, which you can’t stop watching with a sense of wonder and beguilement, is the result. The film. It was a busy night on the calendar, but I didn’t want to miss it. First of all, I knew it would be a social event of the kind that rarely exists in Manhattan anymore for the simple reason that many of the main characters have moved on to celestial havens or warmer climes. Lee Radziwill was there with her close friend Hamilton South. Reinaldo and Carolina Herrera were there. Kenny Lane, Freddie Eberstadt, Marti Stevens, and many others who have known Gloria for much if not all of her life. Another reason that it interested

C A P E H A RT

Frances Fisher and Sally Soter

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A me was that I know Gloria, though not what I would call “well.” I’ve spent time in her company, alone and with others. We have and have had several mutual friends. She has a quality, a kind of charisma, that is almost like a fragrance in the atmosphere. Not the air, the atmosphere. Yet, she is entirely accessible to whatever you’re talking about in conversation, because she’s curious. And she’s ambitious. So I went. And I sat there watching the theater fill up. And then the lights dimmed and the film began. It’s a life story—a glamorous one. Even the tragedy is glamorous. It’s the money (even though her

inheritance was decreased by a dissipated father who basically squandered his vast inheritance through booze and gambling and then died in his mid-forties), in all its fourth- and fifth-generation decadence. And there’s this somber-faced little girl who was already famous in the tabloids because a courtroom battle over her custody between her widowed mother without a sous (except for her little daughter’s trust) and her very rich and powerful fraternal aunt, Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney. Anyone who is halfway familiar with Gloria’s life, whether or not they’ve known her personally, knows this sto-

ry or the gist of it. The documentary recounts that drama with archival film clips and explains how a personality was created out of that very early childhood drama,. This personality required attention, and got it. Almost a century later, it still gets it. But it is an uncertain personality, never quite feeling worthy, or quite good enough, or needed, or important enough. Abandonment, that’s the issue. There’s a lot of that around many of our lives, even personally. The result is often the same: look at me, look at me, show me who I am. It is a powerful issue in our development as adults, and

often very harmful. Gloria’s “abandonment” was frontpage news and therefore had an aura being a fairy tale, as it were, of a “poor little rich girl” (which she was). But the lady was also equipped with the ability to rise above the murky beginnings. Yes, the inheritance (which was gone decades ago) helped by giving her access to media—especially the press and magazine publishers. But abandonment was her cornerstone of a very successful life as an artist and personality. A sow’s ear; a silk purse; a life price—Gloria paid and, in the end, created the masterwork. Nothing Left Unsaid probably has many things left unsaid, as you will

C R U I S E W I T H T H E H I STO R I C A L S O C I E T Y O F PA L M B E AC H C O U N T Y

Carey O’Donnell with her children 40 QUEST

Didi and Brian Smith

Dawn and Chris Fox

Tracy and Charley White

Mark Foley with Donna and Stu Winterson

Jeremy Johnson, Marc Schappell and Tom Anderson

C A P E H A RT

Jeremy and Sunni Johnson

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A see if you haven’t seen it already. But it’s real life just the same: a jewel, in a manner of speaking. On a sweeter, happier note, Charlotte Ford celebrated her birthday last month. First, there was a luncheon given her by her “oldest” friend Diana Feldman at Doubles. Then, on a Sunday night at chef Michael White’s Ai Fiori (the very smart restaurant in Langham Place on Fifth Avenue between 36th and 37th streets) Charlotte’s daughter, Elena Ford, threw a birthday dinner for her. This was a family party, not something one sees or experiences often in New York life. Charlotte is the eldest of

three. Her sister Anne Ford lives here in New York also. Their brother, Edsel Ford II, and his wife, Cynthia Ford, live in Michigan. When the sisters have a birthday (for a “significant” number), they give each other dinners. Anne worked with Elena on this. Edsel and his wife flew in from Michigan, as did one of their sons. Anne’s son, Al Uzielli, and his wife, Kimm Uzielli, and their two young daughters come from Los Angeles. Elena’s clan came from Michigan, also. Coupled with old friends, it felt like an old-fashioned family birthday dinner with good food and many brief speeches. Everyone in the room

had something to say about the birthday girl, including a stepdaughter from a previous marriage who choked up thanking Charlotte for being the mother she lost when her own mother died. What made it so remarkable for me was to sit among three generations of a family in the room with a lot of the warmth that we imagine “family” to be ideally. That is actually the essence of Charlotte. When she was a very young woman, she was the most famous debutante in America: on every magazine cover and dating movie stars, authors, diplomats, princes, and Greek ship-owners— even Frank Sinatra.

Yet, the young woman whose public image was glittering and star-studded, grew up to be a devoted mother, Vice-chairman of NewYork-Presbyterian Hospital, to which she’s given much of herself in the last four decades with the kind of compassion that she shows many of us whose lives she touches (and especially to her grandchildren). There was a lot of laughter in the room because Charlotte is a great target for someone’s caustic ribbing or practical joke. She’s the first one to laugh at it, too. But there’s a lot of respect implied in all of it: a girl who made something of herself, to the benefit of many. u

N E T - A - P O R T E R H O S T E D A L U N C H E O N AT T H E R U B E L L F A M I LY C O L L E C T I O N I N M I A M I

Michelle Rubell 42 QUEST

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CO U RTE S Y O F N E T- A - P O RTE R

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toestate the accuracy property information is presented subjectcontractor to errors, omissions, price changes, property conditions, and withdrawal the property from the market, without notice. Real agents thereof. affiliatedAll with The Corcoran Group are independent sales associates and are changed not employees of The Corcoran Group. Equalof Housing Opportunity. The Corcoran Group is a licensed real estate broker. All information furnished regarding property for sale or rent or regarding financing is from sources deemed reliable, but Corcoran makes no warranty or representation as to the accuracy thereof. All property information is presented subject to errors, omissions, price changes, changed property conditions, and withdrawal of the property from the market, without notice.

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Lori and Bruce Gendelman with Juliana Gendelman 44 QUEST

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KNOWN GLOBALLY. LOVED LOCALLY. 575 MADISON AVENUE, NY, NY 10022. 212.891.7000 | © 2016 DOUGLAS ELLIMAN REAL ESTATE. ALL MATERIAL PRESENTED HEREIN IS INTENDED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY. WHILE, THIS INFORMATION IS BELIEVED TO BE CORRECT, IT IS REPRESENTED SUBJECT TO ERRORS, OMISSIONS, CHANGES OR WITHDRAWAL WITHOUT NOTICE. ALL PROPERTY INFORMATION, INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO SQUARE FOOTAGE, ROOM COUNT, NUMBER OF BEDROOMS AND THE SCHOOL DISTRICT EQUAL HOUSING OPPORTUNITY. IN PROPERTY LISTINGS ARE DEEMED RELIABLE, BUT SHOULD BE VERIFIED BY YOUR OWN ATTORNEY, ARCHITECT OR ZONING EXPERT.

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A S P R I N G L U N C H EO N AT T H E MO R G A N L I B R A R Y A N D M U S E U M

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The Skill of Your Surgeon: LASIK is a surgeon-dependent, corneal procedure. The corneal flaps created in LASIK are thinner than a human hair. Surgeons who are cornea-fellowship trained are best equipped to perform LASIK, as they are specifically trained in microsurgical techniques of the cornea.

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Tom Scheerer and Len Morgan

•

Pre-Screening Technology: Although it’s critical that the most advanced surgical technology be employed for LASIK, the technology used to determine if you’re a good surgical candidate is equally essential. Pentacam analysis is one of the most sophisticated screening technologies available. At our practice, a significant number of patients are turned away as less than optimal candidates because of findings that only this machine is able to uncover. In the hands of a skilled corneal specialist, LASIK is a safe and very effective procedure.

Deeda Blair and Susan Sawyers

Laurie Tisch, Gillian Steel and Lucy Lamphere

A Harvard-trained corneal specialist, Dr. Mandel has been named a Castle Connolly Top Doctor and has appeared in America’s Top Doctors for 13 consecutive years.

Eric R. Mandel, M.D. Mandel Vision 211 E. 70th Street NYC, NY 10021, 212-734-0111 www.mandelvision.com Board Certified in Ophthalmology

Top Doctors Make a Difference

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Dee Winokur, Cathy Orme and Jere Thompson

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PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

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Top Doctors Make a Difference

Castle Connolly Healthcare Solutions for all of your healthcare issues Healthcare Solutions is a service that assists busy executives and their loved ones in navigating the complex world of healthcare. This service takes the guess work out of your healthcare decision-making process. The Castle Connolly Healthcare Solutions professional staff can help you navigate through the healthcare system with less stress, faster service and better outcomes - with access 24/7/365. This personal and sophisticated service provides comprehensive and confidential support for all of your healthcare needs, such as: • Understanding the diagnosis of a serious illness • Helping you to prepare for a conversation with your doctor • Identification of the best resources to deal with a complex medical problem • Access to Top Doctors and hospitals on a national and global scale • Identification of non-physician providers such as Dieticians, Therapists and Eldercare providers Castle Connolly publishes the books America’s Top Doctors® and America’s Top Doctors® for Cancer and partners with nearly 40 regional magazines nationwide. For more information on Castle Connolly Medical Ltd., visit www.castleconnolly.com.

For more information on Castle Connolly Healthcare Solutions contact our Nurse Coordinator at 212-367-8400 ext. 116.

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Joseph Barbieri presents Joseph Barbieri presents

OLDFIELD FARM OLDFIELD FARM -- EQUESTRIAN EQUESTRIANESTATE ESTATE| |$21,500,000 $21,500,000 Amid the the pastoral pastoral beauty “Oldfield Farm” is is anan Amid beautyof ofGreenwich’s Greenwich’sgreat greatestates, estates, “Oldfield Farm” equestrian estate groomed acres, equestrian estate without withoutpeer. peer.Encompassing Encompassing18.39 18.39±±carefully carefully groomed acres, hosts a a classical classical villa and a stick itit hosts villa on onlush lushgrounds, grounds,superior superiorhorse horsefacilities facilities and a stick and ball ball field. field. The convenience, and The property propertyoffers offersaarare rarecombination combinationofofseclusion, seclusion, convenience, timeless elegance, elegance, and stewardship timeless and modern modernamenities. amenities.Under Underthe theconscientious conscientious stewardship of the current owner, the estate recently underwent a meticulous, comprehensive of the current owner, the estate recently underwent a meticulous, comprehensive 18-month restoration resulting in significant enhancements. The residence’s relaxed 18-month restoration resulting in significant enhancements. The residence’s relaxed warmth and elegant floor plan is ideal for gracious everyday living or grand-scale warmth and elegant floor plan is ideal for gracious everyday living or grand-scale entertaining. entertaining. WEB ID: 0067882 | Joseph Barbieri | 203.618.3112 WEB ID: 0067882 | Joseph Barbieri | 203.618.3112

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LEGENDS 153 East 63rd Street This truly exceptional residence was home to Gypsy Rose Lee, Jasper Johns & Spike Lee. Masterful in construction and renowned in address. Amidst a bustling metropolis, a sanctuary of luxury awaits you at 153 East 63rd Street. Open the door to your tomorrow.... elliman.com/2401275

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575 MADISON AVENUE, NY, NY 10022. 212.891.7000 | © 2016 DOUGLAS ELLIMAN REAL ESTATE. ALL MATERIAL PRESENTED HEREIN IS INTENDED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY. WHILE, THIS INFORMATION IS BELIEVED TO BE CORRECT, IT IS REPRESENTED SUBJECT TO ERRORS, OMISSIONS, CHANGES OR WITHDRAWAL WITHOUT NOTICE. ALL PROPERTY INFORMATION, INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO SQUARE FOOTAGE, ROOM COUNT, NUMBER OF BEDROOMS AND THE SCHOOL DISTRICT IN PROPERTY LISTINGS ARE DEEMED RELIABLE, BUT SHOULD BE VERIFIED BY YOUR OWN ATTORNEY, ARCHITECT OR ZONING EQUAL HOUSING OPPORTUNITY. EXPERT.

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Joan Scott and Suzanne Oparil

Ken Haliulin, David Bennett and Russ Allen

Mitch Rothschild, William Liss-Levinson and Jordan Josephson 52 QUEST

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Sharon Walsh and Max Gomez

Jane Hanson with John and Ingrid Connolly

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Jean Morgan, John Hodgeson and Alan Manevitz

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PRIVATE COUNTRY RETREAT Here is a home where you can create memories that will last a lifetime. Hidden on 17 acres in a lush part of Bucks County just 90 minutes from New York City, this very private country house with separate 800-square-foot guest house offers quiet, character-filled living spaces and picturesque outdoor living areas, including a newly upgraded pool. The house has been significantly upgraded and offers seamless transitions from living to dining to custom chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kitchen and an expansive patio. Main bedroom with built-in seating overlooking the manicured grounds, three additional bedrooms, three full baths and one half bath. As a full-time or weekend residence, this home is an excellent choice for those seeking stylish surroundings appealing in every season. Hellen Cannon: 215-779-6151. Tinicum Township, Pennsylvania Kurfiss.com/6767015 Offered at $1,695,000

NEW HOPE, PENNSYLVANIA

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Bettina Zilkha and Harry Slatkin

Bobette Cohn, Alex Papachristidis and Laura Slatkin 56 QUEST

Margaret Russell and Billy Norwich

Alessandra Branca

James Druckman and Alexa Hampton

Bunny Williams and Martha Stewart

Clodagh and Daniel Aubrey

B FA . CO M

David and Nina Kohler with Simon Doonan and Jonathan Adler

Long Island's North Shore danielgale.com

Matinecock, NY – “Katydid Farm” Enchanting country retreat on 4+ verdant acres with 5 bedrooms, 5.5 baths, 4 fireplaces and a magnificent open spiral staircase connecting all 3 floors. Including 2-acre building lot. Masterpiece Listing. SD #3. MLS# 2841742. $4,250,000. Bonnie Devendorf, 516.759.4800 ext.111, c.516.509.6229

Locust Valley, NY SD #3. MLS #2831683. $4,288,000. Debra Quinn Petkanas, 516.674.2000 c.516.359.3204

Manhasset, NY SD #6. MLS# 2844651. $1,349,000. Catherine Matteo, 516.627.4440 ext.243 c.516.313.4466

Nissequogue, NY SD #1. MLS# 2764714. $4,750,000 . Arlene Shelton, 631.584.6600 ext.214 c.631.525.7284

Northport, NY – City Chic SD #4. MLS# 2841917. $579,000. Kevin Guthrie, 631.427.6600 ext.339 c.631.327.3641

Old Field, NY – Waterfront 3VSD #1. MLS# 2842847. $1,399,000. Miriam Ainbinder, 631.689.6980 ext.216 c.631.988.9200

Upper Brookville, NY SD #3. MLS# 2806454. $2,288,000. Marilyn Fox, 516.922.9155 ext.129 c.516.532.1814

Garden City, NY SD #18. MLS# 2830207. $2,500,000. Fortune Heaney, 516.248.6655 Claudia Galvin, 516.248.6655

Huntington, NY – Updated & Expanded SD #3. MLS# 2827772. $825,000. Cathy Casalicchio, 631.427.6600 ext.222 c.631.678.8929

Huntington, NY – Water View SD #3. MLS# 2836566. $3,150,000. Nikki Sturges, 631.427.6600 ext.211 c.631.375.8557

Lattingtown, NY SD #3. MLS# 2843080. $1,695,000. Patrick H. Mackay, 516.759.4800 ext.174

Manhasset, NY SD #6. MLS# 2843005. $1,999,000. Catherine Matteo, 516.627.4440 ext.243 c.516.313.4466

Matinecock, NY SD #3. MLS# 2839014. $1,950,000. Anne E. Kerr, 516.759.4800 ext.124 Kathryn (Cottie) Maxwell Pournaras, 516.759.4800 ext.131

Oyster Bay Cove, NY Old World charm meets privacy and serenity, this solid brick residence echoes back to a golden era. Boasting a 4-car detached garage with apartment above, heated pool, generator and 375-ft. deep water dock. Enjoy the most spectacular waterfront views on Long Island. SD #6. MLS# 2843625. $9,500,000. Debra Quinn Petkanas, 516.674.2000, c.516.359.3204 Marilyn Jenney, 516.759.6822, c.516.236.4278

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Louise Benton and Francisco Ballester

Charles Manger, Patty Hambrecht and Douglas Steinbrech 58 QUEST

Audrey Gruss

Harry Heissmann and Lindsey Harper

Jamie Tisch

Jamee Gregory

Sydney Shuman and Annabelle Gould

Ingrid and Thomas Edelman with Tim Taft

Thomas Minc and Lily Hoagland

Diana Quasha and Jeanne Lawrence

A N N I E WAT T

Brian Colwell and Jennifer Cacioppo

Toad Hollow Farm - Breathtaking Western Views! Nearly 22 pastoral acres in the heart of hunt country. Barn Complex with 16 stalls. Lawton Adams indoor and outdoor Riding Arenas. Fenced Paddocks and Run-in Sheds for turnout. Impressive 6700+/- square foot Georgian Colonial with beautifully-scaled rooms with great light and views. Five Bedrooms all with en suite Baths. Separate Two Bedroom Cottage. Sparkling Swimming Pool. An incredible offering in desirable North Salem! $5,850,000

Rare Equestrian Estate -

Grace Farm. Spectacular Antique Country Estate dating back to 1830. Brimming with period details, nearly 6600 square feet of living space with antique floors and seven fireplaces. Over 42 pastoral acres with oversize paddocks and woodland trails. State-of-the-art equestrian facilities. Phenomenal Ten-Stall Main Barn. Storage/Equipment Barn. Outdoor riding ring. Delightful Guest Cottage. The perfect riding lifestyle. $6,950,000

Belle Coeur - Distinctive Shingle Country House perfect for entertaining Highland Fling and everyday living. 6900 square feet with perfectly-scaled rooms, hardwood floors, extensive millwork, French doors and three fireplaces. Dramatic Entrance Hall with graceful curved stair. Living Room with high ceiling. Mahogany Library. Formal Dining Room. Chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kitchen open to Family Room. Six Bedrooms. Three beautifully landscaped acres with Pool. Desirable Bedford estate area. $2,650,000

One of the most spectacular settings in Westchester. Sixteen private estate acres on the Cross River Reservoir with incredible distant views. Gorgeous grounds with old stone walls and rolling lawns. Striking Mid-Century Modern with beautifully scaled rooms and sophisticated appointments. Walls of windows afford breathtaking views. Slate floors, built-ins and four fireplaces. The ultimate getaway! $4,408,000

Pound Ridge Perfection -

Warm Woods & Stone -

Stunning Clapboard Colonial with meticulously detailed rooms. Substantial millwork, wide moldings, five fireplaces, hardwood floors and French doors. Living Room with wet bar. Dining Room with coffered ceiling and dramatic soffit lighting. Sun-filled Kitchen open to Family Room. Screened Porch with stone fireplace. Four Bedrooms plus Au Pair/Maidâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Room. Three breathtaking acres. $1,795,000

(914) 234-9234

Stunning Country Contemporary with soaring ceilings, sun-filled spaces and great light. Over 5400 square feet of living space perfect for entertaining. Five Bedrooms. Long drive to perfect privacy. Over four acres with rolling lawns, Rhododendrons, Cherry, Dogwoods, Forsythia and Japanese and Cut-leaf Maples. Fabulous Sun Deck with stairs down to the Swimming Pool. $1,295,000

493 BEDFORD CENTER RD, BEDFORD HILLS, NY SPECIALIZING IN THE UNUSUAL FOR OVER 60 YEARS

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Edward Maher and Alison Brod

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60 QUEST

Roger and Irina Erickson

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Erika and Jonathan Bearman

Jeffrey Dodd and Teresa Lourenco

Ebonee Davis and Camelia Entekhabiford

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Sofia Resing

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Anne Harrison, Gregory Long and Cosby George

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YO U N G A R TS H O ST E D I TS I N AU G U R A L G A L A AT T H E M E T R O P O L I TA N M U S E U M O F A R T

Omar Hernandez and Laura Eastwood 62 QUEST

Javon Jonas, Maria Maramotti and Cristian Notari

Marcus Canty

Mariah Strongin and Solveig Mork

Zuzanna Szadkowski and Desmond Richardson

Placido Domingo and Sarah Arison

B FA . CO M ( A B OV E ) ; B FA . CO M ( B E LO W )

Lisa Rinehart and Mikhail Baryshnikov

Prime Park Avenue Full Floor Estate Rare opportunity to renovate this full floor in white glove prewar co-op. 11 foot ceilings. 5 bedrooms, 4.5 baths, library, eat-in kitchen + staff room. $12.5M. Web 14604284. Tracie Golding 212.452.4394/Kirk Henckels 212.452.4402

Fifth Avenue Prewar 9 with Sensational Park Views

Mint Central Park West 4 Bedroom, 4 Bath

High floor with direct view of Central Park and over townhouses. Move-in condition. Full service Carnegie Hill co-op. 3BRs and 3.5 baths. $8.995M. Web 14074390. Cornelia Zagat Eland 212-452-4384

New to market. Stunning Central Park views. LR, DR/library, chef’s eat-in kitchen, custom millwork. Full service prewar co-op. $6.25M. Web 14621412. Cathy Taub 212.452.4387/Valerie Artzt 212.585.4525

The Right Broker Makes All the Difference. Stribling Private Brokerage is the Stribling & Associates marketing division for properties valued in excess of $5,000,000. It provides services on the level of “private banking” and intensive, customized marketing for luxury properties and discerning clients on a global basis. STRIBLING.COM · UPTOWN 212 570 2440 CHELSEA 212 243 4000 TRIBECA 212 941 8420 BROOKLYN 718 208 1900 · EQUAL HOUSING OPPTY

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Garcelle Beauvais and Tom Quick

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Chloe Squires and Louise Stephaich 64 QUEST

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Lynne Wheat and Thomas Peterffy

Julie Araskog

Jackie Weld Drake and Mercedes Bograd

Eva and Herb Jacobi

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125 EAST 65TH STREET | $38,000,000 Approximately 10,600 sq. ft. | WEB: 00110497 Louise C. Beit, 212.606.7703

128 EAST 73RD STREET | $36,500,000 Approximately 9,050 sq. ft. | WEB: 00110574 Serena Boardman, 212.606.7611

34 EAST 74TH STREET | $26,000,000 Approximately 6,200 sq. ft. | WEB: 00110712 Serena Boardman, 212.606.7611

2 RIVER TERRACE, APT 26DEF | $12,000,000 9 RM/5 BR/7.5 BA | WEB: 00110619 Craig George, 212.400.8754 Nikki Field, 212.606.7669

1035 FIFTH AVENUE, APT 12DE | $9,980,000 10 RM/5 BR/5 BA | WEB: 00110489 Nikki Field, 212.606.7669

MADISON AVENUE AERIE | $9,250,000 10 RM/5 BR/3 BA/2 HF BA | WEB: 00110733 Randall Gianopulos, 212.606.7622 Stan Ponte, 212.606.4109

RIVER HOUSE | $6,575,000 10 RM/3 BR/4.5 BA | WEB: 00110202 Melinda G Nix, 212.606.7719

860 FIFTH AVENUE | $2,150,000 5 RM/2 BR/2 BA | WEB: 00110710 Serena Boardman, 212.606.7611

465 PARK AVENUE, APT 2003 | $1,250,000 3 RM/1 BR/1 BA | WEB: 00110555 Brigitte Goldenberg, 212.606.7636 Vannessa A. Kaufman, 212.606.7639

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H A R RY B E N S O N

IT SEEMS LIKE YESTERDAY

PRESIDENT AND MRS. JOHN F. KENNEDY made an official visit to London and Paris in the early summer of 1961, after JFK had been elected to office the previous November. As it turned out London and Paris belonged not to the president but to his wife, Jackie, who was only 31 years old at the time. The press could not get enough of her. It was on this trip that President Kennedy, when giving a speech a few days later, amused his audience and made history by saying, “I am the man who accompanied Jacqueline Kennedy to Paris.” My assignment the day this photograph was taken was to get a picture of Mrs. Kennedy for the next morning’s edition of the newspaper. I must have stood outside her sister Princess Lee Radziwill’s house for six or seven hours, for it 66 QUEST

was late in the afternoon when the First Lady stepped out to give the waiting photographers a picture. Smiling as she opened the door, she looked lovely in one of her signature pill box hats and crisp spring dress. She stood at the doorway for a few moments before she returned inside. When the Kennedys left London, I was sent to Paris for their triumphant visit with French President Charles de Gaulle. It was to be the last time I photographed the president, although over the years, I am pleased to have continued to photograph the iconic Mrs. Kennedy, who continues to fascinate the world today. u First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy, London, June 1961.

TA K I

THE SPRING IN YOUR STEP

This page: The New York City skyline gives backdrop to lovers out enjoying a row around the Central Park Lake.

EVEN AFTER ALL THESE years, I’m still at times floored by the scale of the place. And it’s always the old reliables that stand out: The silvery arcs of the Chrysler Building, the wide avenues, the filigree of Central Park, the limestone monument to power, the Rockefeller Center. The recent trend for tall, slender and glassy housing for money-laundering Russians and Chinese curiously does not mix with the city’s motto of ever bigger and grander. It’s as if the transparency of the glass structure is 68 QUEST

teasing the authorities about the origins of the owners’ wealth. Come in and take a look, we have nothing to hide. Last month I sat in Central Park reading the newspapers at a comfortable 70 degrees. The cherry blossoms were out, the sun was shining, and I was enjoying a moment of quiet lyricism when I heard a voice that crackled like a BBC program being jammed by the Nazis circa 1944. The voice belonged to one half of a Napoleonic stature couple, two tiny people dressed in 1950s style–fedora

for him, a veil for her, and so on. The effect was more shabby than elegant, but it was their voices that singled them out. They were pure Brooklenese, circa when Brooklyn still had the Dodgers and youngsters played stickball in every corner. This was Hebraic working class in retirement: he was probably a tailor or a small jewelry shop owner; she was definitely a ball buster. I am not an eavesdropper by nature, but this was the best ever. It seems the gentleman in question had three apart-

This page: Central Park is also one of our columnist’s favorite places to relax, read the paper, and occasionally observe the people around him.

ments to his name, but had installed her—obviously his mistress—at a fourth one, whose owner could evict her at a moment’s notice. He was either a widower or with a wife who didn’t want to know; she was up in arms because his treachery was a recent discovery. Perhaps Damon Runyon or E. B. White could do them justice, but I won’t try. Mind you, it was all one way. All the poor man said while on the receiving end was, “This is not necessarily so.” On and on she went in her shrill, ornery but old-fashioned Brooklenese, and my only thought was what I’d give to have a tape of her abuse and his solitary response. It also brought back memories when half of my father’s office employees spoke in that manner. Yes, folks, the battle of the sexes lives on, especially in “Noo Yawk” and “toirty toird street.” In a way I’m glad fedora stuck it to the veil, but I also feel sorry for her. She probably buried a couple of husbands, hooked up with fedora well into his retirement, was lied to at first about his marital status, only to discover that where he installed her would not be coming to her in case of his demise—as he had hinted. Oy vey! It was priceless and I could have listened to them forever, but soon they stalked

away, she giving him an earful while he looked out for oncoming traffic. Where have you gone, Joe DiMaggio? Old Joe was what America was like back in the good old days, the strong silent type who rarely talked to women. That was for sissies. Now sissies are at the head of the class. And they’re even changing the English to suit the genders. “They” is now the correct way of addressing someone whose sexuality is not stamped on their forehead, the way mine is, and “they” is the pronoun to use when meeting a person who has rejected the traditional gender binary of he or she. Yep, gender-neutral constructions is what it’s all about nowadays, at least among the very few readers of the New York Times that is trying to remain relevant by embracing transgender people and pronouncing them mainstream. Otherwise, everything is honky dory. American women have discovered that men want casual sex more than women. Gee, now they tell us. But in committed relationships, women report wanting sex as often as men do. Gott in Himmel! There are also reports that for some women, sex remains much less enjoyable than it is for men. Hold the fucking presses! More earth-shaking discoveries by

American women that look into such things: The acts American girls are engaging in, things like oral sex to sexting, tend to be staged for boys’ enjoyment. (I sure like to think so, although I don’t sext.) Many American girls say that after they’ve had sex or administered oral sex to boys, they’ve had little satisfaction and sense that the boys have been in charge. Duhhhhh! American women who research such matters now write that having a “penis in my mouth is hard to consider impersonal.” I imagine so, although I’ve never had one in my mouth. These same women also write that “it’s pornography which teaches boys to expect constantly willing, fully waxed girls to imitate all those arched backs and movie perfect moans.” Well, I don’t watch porn a lot, in fact almost never, but I do expect an arched back once in awhile. The trouble with modern feminists is that they believe they’ve invented the wheel. Girls have always felt guilty after performing oral sex, but grateful they didn’t have to go all the way. Alcohol has always played a big part in seduction. Boys are more judgmental after sex than girls, because they had an orgasm and girls didn’t. Next time just ask Taki. u For more Taki, visit takimag.com. M AY 2 0 1 6 6 9

AT T H E V E A U

APPRECIATIONS: LUNCH WITH CECILY LANGDALE

This page: Lucien Freud and Roy Davis conversing in a gallery at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Opposite page: Cecily Langdale and Roy Davis, the husband and wife team behind Langdale & Davis.

TABLE FOR TWO for three. That’s what my meal with Cecily Langdale at Le Veau d’Or turned into—as I suspect we both knew it would, as we both knew it would have to be, when we made the date. When she arrived, striking and elegant as ever despite the use of a cane necessitated by recent knee surgery, and sat down, the first words out of my mouth were “I feel Roy’s with us today,” and Cecily smiled and nodded. “Roy” is Cecily’s late husband Roy Davis, her mentor, partner, soulmate, collaborator, love of her life for 50 years until his death in 2014. Their eponymous gallery, Davis & Langdale, which succeeded other dealing partnerships in which Roy had been enmeshed, was literally adored by its clientele. With his passing, things must 70 QUEST

change; two hands, pairs of eyes, and intellects will now take over work that four did for decades. Be certain, however, that Cecily’s fans will insist, echoing Tancredi in The Leopard, that the spirit and character of the enterprise must remain, in essence, the same. Without Roy, the to-and-fro of a busy gallery open full-time to the public is just too much. Accordingly, Cecily has decided to become “semi-private”: open to the public, say, on Saturdays and open by appointment at other times, because as Cecily puts it, “I don’t want to scare people away. While we shan’t be doing one-person exhibitions (though I might even change my mind about that) we will have “hangs” that change every month— with new acquisitions—and I am eager

for people to come in. One of the greatest pleasures of having a gallery is the interactions with others, from which one learns easily as much as one teaches.” She’ll also run a first-class website; she’ll send out emails that matches work that comes in with the known tastes of certain collectors; she’ll continue to get out and look at art, but she says she won’t be adding to her roster of artists. I met Cecily and her husband in the mid1970s when they had opened a gallery on Madison Avenue under the name “Davis & Long” on a sweetheart lease from the late Joan Whitney Payson. Mrs. Payson, a classy dame by any standards, would populate her buildings with tenants she liked. A London friend staying with me, the incomparable John Saumarez Smith

AT T H E V E A U (moving spirit of the legendary Curzon St. bookshop, Heywood Hill) had visited Davis & Long and rushed back to report that his friends, Cecily and Roy, had a drawing of Evelyn Waugh by the English artist Henry Lamb. I then collected Waugh first editions, so back I rushed with John, and the drawing became mine. Thus began a lovely long friendship. The “Long” in the name of the Madison Avenue gallery was Meredith Long, a well-regarded Houston dealer. As I got to know Cecily and Roy, and my appreciation of how rare and inventive was the way they saw and thought about works of art, I decided that there was no way this apples-and-oranges partnership could work. And in due course, it didn’t—Davis & Long became Davis & Langdale. I should add that Joan Payson, and her discerning regard for what Cecily and Roy were up to, was one of a number of Davis & Langdale patrons bearing the most resonant names in a certain highly refined (but never precious) category of American collecting. Mellon, Engelhard, Lehman, Carter Burden are others. Cecily will be the first to tell you “Roy shaped me.” What an amazing training that must have been for a young woman just out of Swarthmore. Roy had started out as a painter, and a damn good one, trained at the Tyler School of Art at Temple University; he’d studied with that irascible genius Dr. Albert Barnes; he knew his way around. Roy figures in one of my favorite paintings: John Koch’s monumental 1956 portrait “A Cocktail Party,” his is the well-groomed head at the lower left-hand corner of the baroque painting on the wall. He’s talking to Aaron Shikler, a fellow Tyler graduate, and one of Davis & Langdale’s best-served and best-serving artists for many years (Aaron died just a year after Roy). Of course, as is the case of relationships that are both professional and connubial, as time went on the shaping became reciprocal and the partnership more equal. When I reflect on the Davis-Langdale manner of dealing, I find myself recalling a wonderful line from the first iteration of Mike Nichols and Elaine May: “There was proximity—but there was no relating.” Cecily and Roy got it entirely the other way round. They related. The work they showed connected. Much of it was

modest in scale. The artist and his craft could be embraced. It was strictly about what could be seen right there on the wall. Externalities didn’t seem to matter. When Cecily declares, “You’d never hear Roy or me say something would make a good investment,” she means it—and if you think that way, you’re probably not the right client for Davis & Langdale. In their stable of artists, you get the feeling that the materiality of the work— the imagination and refinement that are put into its surfaces—counts for almost as much as the image. Or, to put it vulgarly, that the medium bears as much weight as the message. I have a tough time figuring out what Albert York, one of Davis & Langdale’s leading lights, is getting at, but by God the art he makes is physically wonderful to look at, visually compelling. Three years ago, I went to Davis & Langdale to see a show of collages by a painter named Robert Ohnigian. These works simply would not let me go; seized by what I call “Lot’s wife syndrome,” I bought one. I look at it perhaps a dozen times a day. What it may be of, or about, or that I got it for a price that the inhabitants of $30 million condominiums consider derisory, doesn’t matter. Its facture, its presence, is simply...well, seductive, irresistible. If I had to sum up in a word what I feel is the dominant quality of the work in their gallery, it would be: original. It’s no surprise, therefore, that an artist to whom Cecily feels especially close in a whole palette ways is Lucian Freud. He was never a gallery artist. “Simply too expensive for us,” Cecily says. But a close

close friend he was—even though Freud, by most accounts, wasn’t the easiest of people to deal with. The man’s roadway to Olympus is littered with busted relationships. But with Cecily and Roy, he appears to have been loyal, constant, dazzling, open; the key, Cecily appears to think, is that Freud was fiercely protective of his artistic space—his projects, his separateness, his genius—and woe betide anyone who ambled unthinkingly (or aspirationally) across those boundaries. We observed those boundaries, she intimates, and were repaid in the coin of friendship. Davis and Langdale participated in the first Freud exhibition in the United States in the early 1970s. But they backed off a proposal for a show of “secondary” holdings of Freud’s work when it seemed likely to endanger the friendship. “It’s very, very difficult to move with the times,” Cecily observed at one point. But her tone and expression were hardly elegiac. Losing Roy has challenged her. But there’ll always be a place for the kind of art that Cecily specializes in: discreet, well-made, and doesn’t shriek its price from the wall. In today’s noisy Chelsea world, the quietists seem to be losing ground. That’s what concerns Cecily. Everything’s so big, clamorous, self-validating, derivative, and loud today. The taste for art that needs to savored up close seems to be eroding. And yet, how can one get through life without it? Or without the likes of Cecily Langdale, of Davis and Langdale? The answer’s easy: we can’t—and we shouldn’t. u M AY 2 0 1 6 7 1

QUEST

Fresh Finds BY DA N I E L C A P P E L LO

MAY FLOWERS come in more than just the blooming form. For us, they represent a

special gift for your mom on Mother’s Day, or a “I was just thinking about you” kind of present that you decide to pick up for a friend. Whatever your inspiration, or whomever you’re shopping for, we’ve made it a little bit easier to shrug off April showers and welcome May with some of the treasures on these pages.

The 18-kt. white gold Baroque pearl and diamond Starfish earrings at Scully & Scully are the perfect accessory to just about any look. $4,750. Scully & Scully: 504 Park Ave., 212.755.2590.

Get swept away with Verdura’s white gold, diamond, and black and white South Sea pearl Octopus brooch. $57,500. Verdura: 745 Fifth Ave., Suite 1205, 212.758.3388.

A modern take on Be the picture of a princess in Sachin & Babi’s A-line cap-sleeved Ines dress with embroidered floral cut work and princess seams. $895. Sachin & Babi: 1200 Madison Ave., 212.996.5200.

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Ralph Lauren’s most iconic accessory, this small Ricky drawstring bag uses laser-cut technology to lend an elegant look of lace. $2,250 at ralphlauren.com.

Wempe’s 18-kt. rose gold Blu Intermezzo BY KIM necklace with 19.88-ct. peridot center stone and brilliant-cut diamonds with mixed gemstones. $56,290. Wempe: 212.397.9000.

An investment that makes sense: Vhernier’s Doppio Senso earrings in pink gold and ebony. $5,100. Vhernier: 783 Madison Ave., New York City.

Oscar de la Renta’s soft petal silk patchwork blouse ($890) and camel and black fringe

Etro’s silk patchwork ribbon clutch is one to hold onto. $2,445.

hem wool pencil skirt ($2,990) are available at the Oscar de la Renta boutique at 772 Madison Ave., 212.288.5810.

Etro: 720 Madison Ave., 212.317.9096 or 89 Greene St., 646.329.6929.

Add a sultry lift to your leg with Stuart Weitzman’s Sultry sandal in navy galaxy denim. $435 at stuartweitzman.com.

Estate Betteridge Collection French Retro 18-kt. gold and diamond link bracelet, ca. 1950s. $10,800. Betteridge: 239 Greenwich Ave., 203.869.0124, or betteridge.com. M AY 2 0 1 6 7 3

Fresh Finds Modern prep meets modern utility in johnnie-O’s Repel

Turn to Tourneau for Rolex’s 41-mm. Oyster Perpetual

prep-formance rain jacket

Datejust ($12,700) in steel and yellow gold

in eclipse. $125

with champagne dial and fluted bezel.

at johnnie-o.com.

Tourneau: 12 E. 57th St., 212.758.7300.

Get your argyle on with J.McLaughlin’s colorful cotton argyle socks. $24 at jmclaughlin.com.

Suit up for spring, even if it’s sporty chic, Checking a bag is a breeze with Rimowa’s 26-inch Limbo

in the most luxurious way—in some threads from Brunello Cucinelli: 683 Madison Ave., 212.813.0900.

multiwheel electronic tag roller in crème white. $965 at rimowa.com.

Loro Piana’s Laurence straw hat comes with a grosgrain band around the top and a pinched crown. Made in Italy. $735 at Bergdorf Goodman or bergdorfgoodman.com.

Drive off in the hand-painted leather Gommino by TOD’S, a colorful way to liven up any trip. $565 at TOD’S boutiques nationwide, including 650 Madison Ave., 212.644.5945. 74 Q U E S T

Moroccan tile flatweave pillow covers in gray and cream ($149) and indigo and cream ($149), each measuring

Every mother should be so happy to unwrap Robert Marc’s artisanal custom acetate sunglasses in Paris green. For more, visit Robert Marc at 1225 Madison Ave., 212.722.1600.

22” x 22”. Restoration Hardware: Available at rh.com.

The octagonal gray-green shagreen jewelry box with bone trim and detailing is a jewel of its own. $1,750. Handmade in France and available at Linda Horn: 1327 Madison Ave. or lindahorn.com.

Spruce up your home with the addition of the Trellis dresser by Dyfari Interiors Collection in white lacquer with brass and acrylic. $4,500: info@dyfariinteriors.com or 631.659.3539.

Embellish yourself in Shoshanna’s embroidered organza Maria dress, a perfect go-to for all of the season’s occasions. $350 at shoshanna.com.

Step out in patent style with the Midinette slipper from Belgian Shoes in white patent with silver and black trim. $350. Belgian Shoes: 110 E. 55th St., 212.755.7372. M AY 2 0 1 6 7 5

J I LL SW I R B U L

THE SAVIOR OF TUXEDO PARK MICHAEL BRUNO has a vision. When he looks at the Village of Tuxedo Park, he sees historic structures, restored to their former glory; a bustling community center of restaurants, farmers’ markets, and antique stores; and a revitalized area known as “the Gateway to the Hudson Valley.” Quest spoke with Bruno, founder of the online luxury marketplace 1stdibs, about his grand plans for investing millions into the town’s renaissance. Quest: What made you fall in love with Tuxedo Park? Michael Bruno: I love historic architecture and in Tuxedo Park, it is like living in a 2,000-acre private park of house museums built around lakes. There are so many spectacular houses built by the great architects of the Gilded Age, all still in use as residences—versus a place like Newport, where most of the great homes have been turned into museums and tourist sites. In addition,Tuxedo Park is nestled in the foothills of the Ramapo Mountains between two state parks equally over 70,000 acres; all of this This spread: The French Resistance Café and Coffee Shop, one of the many properties being restored; Michael Bruno (inset). 76 QUEST

R E S T O R AT I O N

This page: The Tuxedo Hudson Company Market—which will have a wood-burning grill where you can select your piece of fish or meat and have it cooked to your liking—will be housed in a historic 1890 building. Opposite page, clockwise from top: The as-yet-unnamed Inn; Michael Bruno looks forward to revitalizing the area as the gateway to the Hudson Valley; the Tuxedo Hudson Company Farm.

Q: Do you see any advantages in the fact that the place had been neglected by chains and major businesses? MB: That’s the thing I love most! It’s not over-gentrified like all of the other fashionable places. While there is room for improvements and restoration, it will always have a rural feeling. Most buildings are over 100 years old, and we have purchased 20 of them, all zoned for commercial use along the Route 17 corridor between Tuxedo and Sloatsburg, New York. Q: Tell us about your vision for the area. MB: Since we are located at the gateway to the Hudson Valley, we need to live up to the bounty of amazing food that comes from the valley. The centerpiece of our project will be the Tuxedo Hudson Company Market, which will feature all of the best of what’s available from the Hudson Valley, from produce to meat and cheese. The market will be housed in a historic Walker and Gillette building from 1890. In addition to the market, we will be opening several restaurants featuring chefs that will focus on a “Hudson Valley First” farm-to-table menu. In addition, we will promote hiking and biking on the many miles of trails and beautiful roads through the parkland to which we are so fortunate to be directly connected. We are opening a small boutique hotel in Sloatsburg made up of a block of Victorian houses, which will have a coffee house, a restaurant, and a pool. Our focus and target market for this venue will be cyclists, hikers, and young people who are in search of chic, budget-friendly accommoda78 QUEST

tions. There is a train station nearby and cut-through access into Harriman Park that people can use without having to travel on the congested Route 17. Q: What reactions have there been from the local community? MB: Either everyone is excited about what we are doing (or they only tell me the good things). I think the main reason people are behind our project is because we are putting effort and emphasis on restoring these beautiful old buildings rather than tearing them down and putting up generic new buildings. Q: Does your knowledge of antiques come in handy? MB: My love of antiques very much comes in handy as we plan to establish Tuxedo as an antiques and design destination on the 12-acre Stewart Farm. When we first open, there will be room for about 25 dealers, with room for another 25 a little further out, when we are ready for more to join. Antiques fit quite well with the old-school atmosphere we are creating: they are part and parcel with my life and vision for the area. Q: What is your favorite background history of a local house? MB: There are many good stories to tell, but my favorite is the Loomis Lab: In the 1930s, Alfred E. Loomis gathered some of the great scientists of the time to work together to win WWII. Many important discoveries were made there including radar; the White House had a direct line to the lab; and Roosevelt’s aunt owned what is now my home in Tuxedo Park. The lab was so important that after about a decade it was moved to M.I.T. and became known as the RAD Lab. u

J I LL SW I R B U L

is 30 minutes travel time to the George Washington Bridge… What’s not to love?

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MUSIC

LOLA ASTANOVA

PERFORMS IN THE GRAND STYLE OF HOROWITZ Internationally acclaimed virtuoso pianist brings dynamic presence to every stage AN ADMIRER OF Vladimir Horowitz while studying in Moscow, modern day piano virtuoso and Russian-born Lola Astanova embraces her former fellow countryman’s style and exciting technique to bring power and beauty to the stage. Whether solo or as an artistic collaborator, the international music sensation infuses the grand bravura of Horowitz throughout each of her performances across the globe. Born in the former Soviet Union, Astanova’s journey in music began at age six when her mother gave young Lola her first piano lessons. By age eight, Astanova began appearing as a performer and achieved international note before she turned twelve. Realizing that her career had little chance in the aftermath of the Soviet collapse, she moved to the United States. Her first American break came when she appeared on the Today show starring in a “Classical Superstars Fantasy Concert” with the Kirov Orchestra, conducted by Valery Gergiev, and hosted by Regis Philbin. Her Carnegie Hall debut came in January 2012 with a special “Tribute to Horowitz” performance. The concert, chaired by Donald Trump and hosted by Julie Andrews, featured Astanova who delivered a triumphant performance in front of a sold out crowd. Following this event, Astanova received the distinguished Horowitz Award and was invited to perform with the legendary pianist Byron Janis during his Lif etime Achievement Award ceremony at Lincoln Center. Other notable artistic collaborations include performances with San Diego Symphony’s music director Jahja Ling, which started with Tchaikovsky’s first piano concerto at the Kravis Center in Palm Beach. Astanova and Ling have consistently collaborated over the past two years, from their concert in San Diego with the San Diego Symphony to a headlining performance at the prestigious Lincoln Center with the Orchestra of St. Lukes. Most recently, Astanova performed with the Cleveland Orchestra, one of the most sought-after performing ensembles in the world. The orchestra, which was also led by Ling, performed Rachmaninoff’s Piano Concerto No. 2 to rave reviews. Astanova and Ling also performed at the Civic Theatre in New Orleans with the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra for their annual gala, the Fabergé Opus Ball. 80 QUEST

Astanova has also consistently collaborated with conductor Gerard Schwarz. She brought her emotional depth and dramatic stage presence to Brisbane, Australia, at the Queensland Performing Arts Centre, accompanied by the Queensland Symphony Orchestra, with Schwarz as guest conductor. She then took her talents to the world-class Maier Foundation Performance Hall at the Clay Center for the Arts and Sciences and was accompanied by the West Virginia Symphony Orchestra, again with Schwarz conducting. In 2015, Astanova returned by special request, with expanded performances. In 2012 and 2013, Astanova performed multiple concerts to international acclaim in Palermo and Taormina, Sicily. These special orchestral performances continued in 2015 in Palermo, Taormina, Florence, and Milan. By popular demand in the state of Florida, Astanova has concluded her 7th gala performance with Palm Beach Symphony under the direction of Ramón Tebar and on May 15, 2016, her fifth performance, a Grand Season Finale, with Miami Symphony Orchestra (MISO) and Maestro Ed Marturet. Apart from the stage, Astanova is using YouTube and other new media tools to communicate with her fans, singlehandedly defining what it means to be a modern-day virtuoso. Through her videos, millions of followers have discovered the music of Chopin, Liszt and Rachmaninoff for the first time and her original virtuoso transcriptions of popular music have become a YouTube sensation. She has unveiled a pure, personal and honest 12-part YouTube series, “La Musique et L’Ardeur” bringing the audience closer to the artist and to classical music. Her unique blend of effortless technical skill makes her one of the most dynamic and sought-after pianists performing today. u Miami Symphony Orchestra’s (MISO) 2015-2016 closing performance is Sunday, May 15 at 6 p.m. at the Adrienne Arsht Center’s Knight Concert Hall. Highlighting the season’s finale, Astanova, accompanied by the MISO orchestra under the direction of conductor Eduardo Marturet, will present Mozart’s D minor for Piano and Orchestra, the composer’s first piano concerto ever written in a minor key.

Internationally acclaimed virtuoso pianist Lola Astanova will be highlighting the Miami Symphony Orchestraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Grand Season Finale on Sunday, May 15, 2016.

R E A L E S TAT E

BUCKS COUNTY beckons from the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania—a respite from the intensities of the city, situated an hour and a half from New York. But Bucks County, unlike the Hamptons (which wears its sophistication rather boldly), is a haven where the rich, and sometimes the famous, come to relax “under the radar,” appreciating the seclusion and pace. The area came to be known in the 1930s and 1940s, when residents included the likes of Oscar Hammerstein II and Dorothy Parker, and the community has thrived as a retreat for the artistic and the creative. Indeed, the setting is inspiring: picturesque and blessed with an expanse of lushness, which is chased by creeks and paths for exercising and exploring. 82 QUEST

Bucks County features a host of towns with a range of personalities. For example, Doylestown has the Michener Museum, a famous circa-1938 cinema, a fabulous children’s park, and an array of restaurants, while historic river villages—including New Hope with its revived Bucks County Playhouse, annual New Hope Film Festival, and artistic energy—offer a wealth of antique architecture, taverns, inns, and restaurants. And in the heart of Bucks County: 610 Headquarters Road in Ottsville, Pennsylvania—an intimate retreat with character that has debuted on the market with Kurfiss Sotheby’s International Realty. The property is 17 acres and secluded, featuring an estate with four bedrooms as well as a guest house. The spaces were designed for relaxation, but they’re ideal

for entertaining, too. For example, the dining area opens to an extensive patio. A complement to the allure of the home, the gardens are idyllic and include a secluded, heated pool. Upscale, farm, historic: whatever your choice, Bucks County accommodates. As the owner expresses: “It’s an area that people don’t know about, offering a mix of outdoor activities and country with quite a few artistic endeavors. It’s affordable and there are organic farms and great farm stands. There’s none of the status and the pressure of the Hamptons. It’s such a secret.” u For more information and a video tour of the home, contact Hellen Cannon of Kurfiss Sotheby’s International Realty at 215.229.6151 or hellen@kurfiss.com.

CO U RTE S Y O F KU R F I S S S OT H E BY ’ S I N T E R N AT I O N A L R E A LT Y

BECOME ENAMORED WITH BUCKS COUNTY

This page, clockwise from above: “Country Chic” is the aesthetic in Bucks County; a welcome to the gardens; an oasis for relaxing, as well as a space for entertaining; a view of the greenery; the kitchen is described as “two of everything”; the guest house with private deck is part of a carriage house. Opposite page: The façade of 610 Headquarters Road in Ottsville, Pennsylvania, which was constructed in 1984. The home is on the market with Kurfiss Sotheby’s International Realty for $1,695,000.

PHILANTHROPY

CELEBRATING A PLATINUM ANNIVERSARY “WE ARE EXCITED to celebrate The Society of MSK’s 70-year history of supporting important patient care and research programs at Memorial Sloan Kettering,” said The Society’s President, Lavinia Branca Snyder. On top of a multitude of volunteer programs and initiatives, The Society organizes a flagship Annual Spring Ball that this year will pay tribute to the seven decades of tireless commitment and support of MSK’s patient care and research programs. “In addition to funding more than 250 cancer research initiatives over the years, The Society’s annual fundraisers and its deeply dedicated Board continue to perform another vital and unique role at Memorial Sloan Kettering,” expounded Snyder. “The 84 QUEST

COURTESY OF THE SOCIET Y OF MEMORIAL SLOAN KETTERING

B Y L I LY H O A G L A N D

PHILANTHROPY

This page, clockwise from top left: Clown Care doctor with a patient from Memorial Sloan Kettering’s Department of Pediatrics; Easter Party held by The Children’s Committee of The Society of MSK, 1940s; Clown Care “Doctors of Humorology” making “clown rounds.” Opposite page: The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering 2015-2016 Administrative Board (above); Meeting of the Executive Committee of The Society of MSK, 1948, with

COURTESY OF THE SOCIET Y OF MEMORIAL SLOAN KETTERING

Mrs. Edward C. Delafield, standing, far right (inset).

Society is the force behind a longstanding tradition of providing a broad range of patient care programs that help lift the spirits of both our adult and pediatric patients.” This year, the volunteer organization is commemorating its 70th anniversary with the establishment of The Society of Memorial Kettering Prize, awarded to recognize an individual who has made significant or groundbreaking contributions to the field of pediatric oncology. The inaugural prize recipient will be Richard J. O’Reilly, MD, Chairman of the MSK Department of Pediatrics and Director of the Bone Marrow Transplantation Program, who has been selected based on his transformative research accomplishments over the past 40 years and his

extraordinary service to MSK’s pediatric patients and families. “We are thrilled to aid MSK in its role in recognizing globally important contributions to the field of pediatric oncology with the establishment of The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering Prize to commemorate our special anniversary,” Snyder explained. “The 70th Anniversary Spring Ball on May 17th will be a wonderful evening that encapsulates the passion and dedication of The Society’s members and supporters, honors generations past, and looks to the bright future ahead for this incredible organization.” u For more information, please visit www.thesocietyofmskcc.org. M AY 2 0 1 6 8 5

T R AV E L

CASA DE CAMPO: A HOLE IN ONE CO U RTE S Y O F C A S A D E C A M P O

BY ELIZABETH QUINN BROWN

CASA DE CAMPO IS CALLING, an invitation to those who crave the summer (whatever the season), as extended from the coast of the Dominican Republic. The resort is a paradise with sun and sea for those who are as active as they are discerning, with a focus on families. Casa de Campo Resort and Villas is a leader in the luxury resort category, offering an upscale destination for affluent travelers seeking a vacation experience in a contemporary Caribbean setting that complements their active lifestyle. This unique community nestled into a slice of paradise offers guests and residents, alike, a variety of amenities such as gourmet dining, world-class athletics, and cultural and leisure activities that provide a sense of belonging and tradition. Casa de Campo is situated on 7,000 acres that are bordered by the Caribbean Sea and Chavón River—a combination that guarantees an assortment of activities for children and their parents, alike. Indeed, the resort was designed for sport: it This spread, clockwise from left: The perfect putt, with coaching from an instructor; the beach offers options for boating and swimming— and more; the entrance to Casa de Campo in the Dominican Republic. M AY 2 0 1 6 8 7

This page: Familes bond while riding (above); children receive instruction on the court (left). Opposite page, clockwise from above: A daughter makes a splash with her father; the pool is an oasis for

Children and their parents are invited to play as a team or, when desired, solo. 88 QUEST

features a variety of options for guests—from golf and tennis to polo and shooting—that promise to be both reinvigorating and relaxing. Plus, with the benefit of camps from the American Sports Academy as well as instructors, children and their parents are invited to play as a team or, when desired, solo. “Our program is based upon reaching the next level, whether that be in the elementary and middle school ages, high school, or for a camper who aims to play in college or go on to play professionally,” says Marc White. “We take pride in knowing our campers will be receiving the best in instruction from our top-of-the-line professional staff.” Casa de Campo translates from Spanish as “house in the country,” and that’s what it is: your home away from home, where guests of all generations are invited to retreat. u For more information about Casa de Campo or to make a reservation at the resort, call 800.877.3643 or visit casadecampo.com.do.

CO U RTE S Y O F C A S A D E C A M P O

relaxation; one of the villas at dusk; trekking to tennis.

T R AV E L

M AY 2 0 1 6 8 9

OPEN HOUSE

ON WEST 12TH STREET, THE HORSE WALKS SOLD THE HOUSES BY CHRISTIAN EMANUEL IN 1859, AN UNKNOWN real-estate developer set out to build three lovely red-brick townhouses on West 12th Street in Manhattan’s Greenwich Village, each with a basket-woven wrought-iron doorway beside the stoop. The construction of this unique trio may have represented a larger stylistic transition from the Greek Revival era to the age of the Italianate, but these graceful West Village townhouses were embedded with utilitarian features, which still function over 150 years later. “The nature of the row, generally speaking, means that it was a speculative development,” says Gregory Dietrich of Gregory Dietrich Preservation Consulting, a Manhattan-based preservation consultant who has studied “live-work” uses in townhouses across New York City. Looking to set his houses apart from other developments, our mystery builder was seeking equine-de-

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pendent buyers, especially those in need of a rear workshop or stable. His trump card was the “horse walk,” a covered passageway that runs from the sidewalk directly under the parlor floor to the rear yard and carriage house. The fortunate first owner of 336 West 12th Street was Samuel B. Ferdon, a blacksmith who fashioned architectural wroughtiron—a necessary and stylish feature that adorned nearly all townhouses built during that time. For Ferdon and his family, the new location was perfect; they were situated in the middle of a bustling waterfront commercial center, and the real-estate business was booming. In its heyday, the house likely served simultaneous residential and commercial purposes, with a stable and blacksmith shop in the back building. “Live-work buildings

NAME

This page: The carriage house was updated for the 21st-century resident (above); the façade of 336 West 12th Street (below).

CO U RTE S Y O F S OT H E BY ’ S I N T E R N AT I O N A L R E A LT Y; CO U RTE S Y O F T H E N E W Y O R K P U B L I C L I B A R A RY

Opposite page: A photograph of the neighborhood by P.L. Spurr, 1932.

were a big part of certain neighborhoods,” points out Dietrich, who has found evidence of back buildings used by blacksmiths, carpenters, and textile tradesmen who settled into houses around the Gowanus Canal in Brooklyn. In that community, back buildings allowed tradespeople to work from home and stay near the centers of commerce. Similarly, on West 12th Street, Ferdon clanked hammers next door to a carpenter and two doors from a “carman,” or horse-drawn delivery driver. After about 50 years of equine and industrial use, the trio of Italianates on West 12th Street were sold off by their original owners. Changing economic tides on the waterfront caused a partial exodus of industry, and the neighborhood tradespeople were slowly replaced by the artistic class. By the 1930s, the house had its stoop removed and it was divided into almost a dozen studio apartments. A large painter’s skylight was added to the top floor, which reflects the changes that took place around the Great Depression and into the middle of the 20th century, when Greenwich Village became the artistic epicenter of New York. Then, after the turn of another century, a complete historic restoration of the exterior took place, paired with a complete interior reconstruction that included poured concrete floors and steel reinforcement. The extensive rebuild included new brick on both facades, bigger and brighter window openings on the south side of the house, and—of course—a ground-up re-imagining of Ferdon’s rear workshop as a luxurious and private

CO U RTE S Y O F S OT H E BY ’ S I N T E R N AT I O N A L R E A LT Y

OPEN HOUSE This spread, clockwise from above: The den features a fireplace and a skylight; the “horse walk” continues to function; the entrance; the parlor; the double-height kitchen.

two-story home office. As a result of its rebirth, the 24-foot-wide townhouse now features elevator service on six levels, approximately 7,500 square feet of interior space, and six bedrooms. Almost 2,000 square feet were added by excavating a new lower level, which spans the entire lot and conveniently connects the two buildings underground. With impeccable materials having been selected throughout the interior, the house is a work of art that pays tribute to the past. Custom millwork is on display in the open and expansive parlor floor and the dining room, while custom paneling wraps around the newly built steel-core staircase. All of the hardware throughout the house is made by Nanz, fabricated in brass and forged glass by using traditional mid–19th century methods. Lest we forget, the house has no shortage of modern comforts, either. A Crestron system controls the air conditioning, lighting, window shades, security, and hidden speakers in nearly every room. There are 19 zones of air conditioning with humidity control, and a security system with over a dozen exterior cameras. It proves quite the upgrade from the gaslights used from by the Ferdon family. Although the houses and horse walks have seen drastic changes over the years, there’s no doubt that Samuel Ferdon would once again feel right at home. The bigger mystery is whether he’d choose to walk up the stoop and to the double doors, or through his beloved horse walk. u For more information, contact Randall Gianopulos (randall.gianopulos@sothebyshomes.com) at 212.606.7622 or Stan Ponte (stan.ponte@sothebyshomes.com) at 212.606.4109.

BELLINI WILLIAMS ISLAND

CO U RTE S Y O F B E LL I N I W I LL I A M S I S L A N D

Buy now, move in now: Bellini Williams Island offers a lifestyle beyond compare that you can enjoy immediately.

R E A L E S TAT E

This spread: The chic Bellini condominiums—which overlook William Island in Aventura, Florida—were developed by Martin Z. Margulies.

RISING 24 STORIES over the meticulously landscaped and tranquil Williams Island in prestigious Aventura, Florida, Bellini is a chic, contemporary condominium with high-end features and an intimate ambience. Occupying the last parcel of residential land on Williams Island, Bellini is the crown jewel of the community, developed by the esteemed Martin Z. Margulies—known just as much for his quality projects with astute attention to detail as for his status as one of the world’s most notable contemporary art collectors. This is not, however, a developer selling you a dream; it is the sales team encouraging you to buy now because you can actually move in to one of the last remaining residences here, before they are all sold. Bellini is, in fact, comprised of only 70 residences—just four per floor—and each is accessed by private elevator. Bellini’s amenities include a superlative fitness center, featuring private men’s and women’s locker rooms and sauna; a media room and kid’s game room; and a beautiful sun deck with resort-style pool, spa, and cabana area, overlooking the private Williams Island Marina accommodating yachts of up to 160 feet. Now that Bellini is complete, Bellini Williams Island has introduced the boutique condominium’s last group of inventory to the market. Among the featured floor plans is the B-line. These expansive and well-appointed three-bedroom corner residences come designer-ready with 2,235 square feet of westfacing views of the Williams Island Marina and the Bay. They feature three bedrooms, three full baths, 10- to 12-ft. ceilings, wrap-around balconies, Poggenpohl kitchens, Miele appliances and 42-inch Sub-Zero refrigerators. The private, gated community of Williams Island is known for its exclusivity and amenity-rich lifestyle. In addition to all of the building’s own offerings, residents receive access to membership at the private Williams Island Club, featuring a newly renovated 27,000-square-foot, state-of-the-art fitness center and luxury spa with restaurants, 16 tennis courts, indoor and outdoor pools, and children’s playground. The 80-acre private residential island has long been known as the Florida Riviera and remains a soughtafter address, attracting household names in entertainment, business, philanthropy, and sports. The City of Aventura is destination all its own, recognized for the exclusive Turnberry Golf Club, parks and recreation, and world-class shopping. The Aventura Mall, ranked one of the top five highest grossing malls in the country with more than 300 retailers, is just down the street; and Bal Harbour Shops, the open-air, luxury shopping center, is just a few miles away. Centrally located between Miami and Fort Lauderdale on the Intracoastal Waterway, Aventura is just a short drive from the vibrancy of South Beach and conveniently located between two international airports. Bellini truly provides the ultimate lifestyle of luxury and convenience. At Bellini Williams Island, one does not have to wait for the dream, but can live the dream now. u Prices start at $1.5 million. To schedule a private tour of our final collection or for further information, please call 954.702.9441 or visit www.belliniwilliamsisland.com. M AY 2 0 1 6 9 5

BOOKS

“DAIWI” IS CHUCK PFEIFFER OUR LONGTIME CONTRIBUTOR and man about town, Chuck Pfeifer, has penned a memoir that is out this month from Amazon and deserves to be on every Quest reader’s shelf. “Daiwi” means “Captain” in Vietnamese and aptly captures the heart of Pfeifer’s story. The book starts by recounting a privileged childhood in New Canaan and New York City, and Pfeifer’s adventures and many misadventures at Culver Military Academy, Dartmouth and West Point. That chapter, “Privilege and Heartbreak,” is excerpted nearby. Thereafter, the book recounts Chuck’s distinguished service in Vietnam, the scars from which were forever burned into his psyche. After ’Nam, Pfeifer had a long and highly successful career in advertising and as a model—not to mention with the ladies, as a New York City boulevardier

extraordinaire at Elaine’s and, ultimately, his own bar. As he mellowed and was able to put to rest some of the worst of the demons of war, his love of the land on his Montana and Dakota ranches deepened. As did his love for Lisa, his beautiful and supportive wife. The book closes poignantly: In 1969 or 1970, if anyone had posed the question to me, “Do you think you will ever be normal again?” I might have answered, “I do not know. I do not know how normal feels or looks anymore. If how I feel now is normal, then no, I will never be normal again.” If that same question were posed today, I would probably answer, “sometimes.” I am learning to be content. My journey that began uncertain early on has become certain. Fraught with love, anger, hate, sorrow, fear, despair and, sometimes, downright stupidity, it has returned to love. u

This page: Chuck Pfeifer loves spending time on his Montana ranch; the cover of Daiwi (inset). Opposite page: Second Battalion, 34th Infantry, letter of commendation.

L I S A C RO S BY

BY JAMIE MACGUIRE

CHAPTER 1: WATERBIRD HANOI 1993. The best and the brightest were in Vietnam again, and so was I. Twenty-five years earlier, in some ways, this phrase described me. In 1968, I may not have been the best or the brightest, but I was certain I stood next to them. Not because I was a Special Forces Captain, a West Point graduate, football player, Ivy League dropout, or that I came from a Park Avenue penthouse. It was because in Vietnam I was free. In 1968, virtually without constraint, I roamed the jungles, cities, and mountain towns of Vietnam and Laos for nine months. I picked up scraps of newspaper in Da Nang whorehouses or the Saigon Bachelor Officers Quarters and read about the Summer of Love in the USA, about this or that—lib and laugh. I spent years earning the right to be there. Airborne, Ranger, and Pathfinder schools, at Fort Benning, and with the U.S. 10th Special Forces in Bad Tolz, Germany. I trained alongside the British Special Air Service (SAS), French Marine commandos (the equivalent of U.S. Navy SEALS), Deutsch Kampfschwimmers (German Special Forces), Special Forces Legionnaires (French Foreign Legion), Danish Jaeger Forces (Elite Special Forces Unit of the Royal Danish Army), and the Hellenic Raiders (Elite Greek 1st Raider/Paratrooper Brigade). These were the killer elite of every western war from Hitler on. For me, freedom came down to one word: meritocracy. It made every human construct from politics and economics to ethics and metaphysics seem pale and powerless. When I finally arrived in Saigon and went to war, the campaign that America called the “Tet Offensive” was winding down. Vietnam called it “The War Against Americans To Save the Nation,” or the American War. The Communist Tet Offensive was twofold: To create unrest in South Vietnam’s populace and to cause the U.S. to scale back its support of the Saigon regime or cause

complete U.S. withdrawal. In an attack planned by General Vo Nguyen Giap, over 100 cities in S. Vietnam were attacked by over 70,000 Communist troops. Militarily, Tet was a failure for the North Vietnamese Army (NVA) and the rebel Viet Cong guerillas, although it was a strategic victory for them. The media in America wrongly portrayed the Tet Offensive as a Communist victory. Liberal propaganda was instrumental in turning the American populace against the long and bloody Vietnam War. Tet was not just about winning a short-term battle. It proved to be an American political turning point in the war, leading to the slow withdrawal of U.S. troops from the region. Warfare had gone from permanent (Uncle Ho’s) to ugly (ours) to unconditional. There is simply no greater meritocracy. I was headed to the very unconditional I Corps, a member of SOG: the Project. SOG was a typically polite acronym (Studies and Observation Group) for a network of reconnaissance, saboteurs, and assassins led by Colonel (later Major General) John Singlaub. The Joint Chiefs of Staff implemented the Project in 1964, as a subsidiary command of the Military Assistance Command (MACV), during the secret war against Laos. The enemy terrain, and the obscure nature of civil war made it clear we badly needed covert activity. SOG had since become one of the backbones of the official war as well (it was a SOG operation, for example, that precipitated the Gulf of Tonkin), with Vietnam as our official mandate. To bastardize Melville, it was always Laos, though, that was my “Yale and Harvard.” The Vietnam War, for me, was brief by most standards. I saw active duty from January through August 1968. During this time, I was involved in one of the most written about, and historical, battles of the war on August 23, 1968. I had expected to be in Vietnam much longer, but I contracted life-threatening M AY 2 0 1 6 9 7

Falciparum malaria. After making a full, and lengthy recovery, I finished my remaining tour of duty in June of 1969, in Fort Devens, Massachusetts. A commander was assigned a call name to distinguish him from a radioman. My call name was “Waterbird” from my first mission to my last, no matter my location. I hoped I would not have to use it, but I knew I would. I could not imagine completing many missions without having to call in a “Prairie Fire” or two for emergency tactical support. February 1968 was the first time I had been called “Waterbird.” I was flying over Laotian mountain passes in an H-34 helicopter with a couple of experienced SOG officers. They loved to show off to new members and subject them to theretofore-unknown fear. I was no exception. I sat with my feet close to the open side of the chopper, watching as tracers the size of footballs flew past. I smelled the trailing phosphorus and watched it disappear into the sky. “Waterbird,” one of the officers yelled over the roar, “Better get back.” I got it. There was no place to hide, so I backed up and prayed we did not go down. There were just the two SOG officers and me and they had been through it before. They were laughing their heads off. They stopped laughing when a couple of 12.7mm rounds came too close to the chopper. I was genuinely scared, but there was no way in hell these officers were going to know it. Luckily, we landed without injury. My special role as Captain (“Daiwi” in Vietnamese) was to command a battalion of Nungs. A battalion can be as many as 1000 men, but mine numbered 200. Indigenous Nungs, Montagnards, and Cambodians were CIA-recruited. Many Nungs had come to Vietnam from China’s southern area of Kwangsi Province, around the Highlands area of N. Vietnam. The Montagnards were often referred to as “Yards.” They did not particularly fight for money, but they were well paid by the United States government, under the auspices of the CIA. The Chinese Nungs had been exiled by Mao in the early 1950s, and worked primarily around the Ho Chi Minh Trail. They are sometimes called hill people, or “indigs” and sometimes the “fat ones,” although they were much smaller in stature than most American soldiers. They hated the Vietnamese and the Chinese and were hated in return. As a result, the Nungs were perfect to fight for the United States. Ferocious, fearsome, loyal, clever and brutal, they fought to the death. The bond between us quickly became very strong, due in part by necessity. The United States Army needed their trust, support, and extremely good fighting abilities and they needed 98 QUEST

my guidance. We had learned to communicate—they in broken English and I in broken Nung, facial expressions, hand gestures and a lot of initial frustration. Most of them could not count beyond three. It amazed me how fast they learned. The Americans named the Ho Chi Minh Trail after the North Vietnamese president. The Communists called it the Truong Son after the Vietnamese name for the Annamite Mountain Range in central Vietnam. It runs from North Vietnam to South Vietnam, through neighboring Laos and Cambodia. The Trail was a strategic route for enemy communications and the transport of supplies during all wars in Vietnam. Part of what became the Trail had existed for centuries as primitive footpaths to facilitate trade in the region. According to the U. S National Security Agency’s official history of the Vietnam War, the Trail system was “one of the greatest achievements of military engineering of the 20th century.” I consider myself a “universal” soldier, although, obviously, I do not personally know every solider who served in our wars. But I respect their service more than I can ever express. I identify with their struggle. I’ve had the same experiences, the same gnawing sickness and acute anxiety. I feel the same devouring images and thoughts that sometimes make us nearly strangers to all who love and know us best. With my eyes wide open, in my sleep and in my nightmares, I still see the faceless men with severed limbs, burns, and mental scars. I have felt the spit of disenchanted and ill-informed American citizens who blamed some of America’s bravest for serving in the Vietnam War. Maybe, I think, this may hurt more than anything else. I suppose they just could not understand or relate to what the soldiers had been through. I fought for their freedoms, or at least thought I did. If there is any fault, it does not lie with brave veterans, but with the government who sent us there. I would fight again if called upon. [...] My favorite quote about war comes from Nietzsche: “Nothing like a good war to make life so...personal.” My Vietnam was so personal. I wrote my own rules while fighting in my enemy’s backyard. I was a demigod in charge of everyone, already a servant to power. At times, however, I found myself a servant to powerlessness, too. This page, from left: Some of Pfeifer’s awards and accomplishments; a recon team of Chinese Nungs with their American advisor; Pfeifer and the Sargent Major of Forward Operational Base 4 (FOB-4).

CHAPTER 2: PRIVILEGE AND HEARTBREAK I ATTENDED St. Luke’s Private School in New Canaan, Con- not care one bit that people stopped to stare as she drove down necticut. My father owned an apartment in New York City and the street with a dog’s face stuck out the window. As I said, she we traveled back and forth until we moved into a Park Avenue made me laugh. When I was 13, Mother was diagnosed with ovarian cancer. high-rise in New York City when I was about 12 or 13. I spent a lot of time as a young boy without a worry about the rest of my When she died, I was heartbroken. It left me in a conflicted life. I lived high above the Manhattan streets and the never-end- adolescence between new-found and somewhat restricted priving noise, separated from the rank and file. I wore clothes from ileges. My life would never be the same. I acted up more than the best tailors, frequented the best museums and restaurants, ever and got into lots of trouble with my father, Charles F. Pfeifwhere I ordered the best cuts of meat and received the best ser- er. He was a paper packaging executive and salesman. He was vice from the maitre d’s. I had tickets to the hottest Broadway also a world-class hurdler. My father commanded respect, and shows and attended upper-crust schools. My classmates hailed his advice for a successful life was “continuity,” and “be bright, be brief, and be gone.” My grandfather was a New York City from some of New York’s wealthiest families. I was privileged. Not considered a model kid by any stretch, I was still, out- cop. In 1956, when I was 15, my father married Shirley Ewald. wardly, the impeccably dressed boy, with impeccable manners. Now, instead of just brother Billie and sister Annie, I had two step-brothers, Theodore The fact that I had been and Brewster (Bumpy) blessed with good looks Loud. We never cultivatalways made it a lot easier ed a close relationship. to attract girls. I was the Needing more disciboy that parents wanted to pline than my father and accompany their daughstep-mother were able to ters to the homecoming provide, in my cocky and dance. Inwardly, I wanted semi-brilliant adolescent to be on the edge, always mind, I enrolled in Culpushing to see how far I ver Military Academy in could go with my rebelCulver, Indiana, when I lion, and New York City was 15. I did not want to provided many outlets for leave New York City. I me to push the adolescent loved it, but my father was envelope. I escaped witha strict disciplinarian and out getting into serious I did what he said. Private trouble, and I credit my school was, however, a parents for that. This page: Pfeifer in Vietnam, where he was on active duty from January through tradition in my family, so I come from a long line August 1968 (left); his mother, Charlene Pfeifer, in the 1940s (right). I followed suit. I seriously of Churches—16 generations of pioneers, elders, gunslingers, and tough buys from Bos- considered attending Andover, but chose Culver not so much ton to California by way of the Cumberland Gap, the Midwest because of its reputation, but because it also had a very good Prairies and Death Valley. My ancestors’ stories were broadcast athletic program. Culver’s football team played bigger schools on T.V.’s “Death Valley Days” in the 1950s. My mother, Charlene from surrounding in-state cities and from Illinois and Ohio, and Church Pfeifer, loved me and I loved her. I looked more like her that appealed to me. I did not have a lot of time to spend with my step-mother. I than my sister or brother. That made me proud, for I thought she was beautiful and sophisticated. A talented painter and interi- am sure she was not crazy about me and was probably relieved or decorator, she helped decorate the “SS United States,” while when I left for Culver. Thinking about it now, I, undoubtedly, working for Smyth, Urquhart & Marckwald. She was fun and she resented her because she would never be the mother I had lost. made me laugh. Generous, loving and a firm believer in educa- She often left me behind at my grandparents’ house while the family went on vacation or day trips because I had become too tion, she made sure I was well-schooled. As a child in Connecticut, we had two pet goats and a Labra- rebellious. Not fully understanding this, I vowed to get back dor Retriever. When mother called to us, “come on kids, we are at her in some way, somehow. Surely, I thought, I can think of going for a ride,” it was not unusual to climb into the car with something. That, of course, was my adolescent mind working mother and my siblings, and try to have one of the pet goats in overtime. I realized much later that she had done the best she the seat between us. That did not work too well with mother, but could with a resentful boy, who obviously did not like her very much. She helped me break into advertising with a great firm our Lab was with us a lot unless we were going to church. The dog usually had his head stuck out one of the side win- after my return from my Vietnam tour. Excelling in football and basketball at Culver, I was voted the dows, its ears flopping in the wind. Occasionally, he would bark at the top of his lungs and could be heard for blocks. Mother did best all-around athlete. Finishing Culver in 1959, I enrolled in M AY 2 0 1 6 9 9

Dartmouth College, where I played football as a wide receiver and running back during my Freshman year. I was eagerly looking forward to playing under the excellent tutelage and coaching of Bob Blackman for the next three years, but that did not happen. Dartmouth was great, but my time there was brief. My classmates and I engaged in a lot of arguing and fighting with Amherst boys. Nothing was personal. We liked most of the guys we met, but our arguments centered and escalated mostly over their invasion of our territory called “the all-girl Smith College.” Testosterone flowed freely and we usually had a few too many beers before heading back to our dormitories. Usually, there were no problems, but one night I became a bit too controversial. I had a date with a beautiful Smith girl. I thought I would remember her name forever, but now it escapes me. We returned to her dorm an hour after curfew and her housemother was waiting at the door. Her arms were crossed over her chest and I figured I was in trouble. “Mr. Pfeifer, you are late bringing her back. Where have you been?” she demanded, reaching to wring one of my ears between her bony fingers. “None of your damn business where I’ve been,” I replied, attempting to leave. “Mister!” she exclaimed, “You stop right there. This most certainly is my business. I expect my girls to be in before curfew, and I don’t condone their dates keeping them out late.” She paused for a moment, eying me suspiciously, and looking me straight in the face. “You’ve been drinking. I will be calling Dean Dickerson about this.” “And you can’t wait to tell him,” I sassed, pulling loose from her grip on my ear. Then, on a sudden whim, I dropped my trousers, brown-eyed her and ran as fast as I could with my pants below my thighs. My reputation was already badly tarnished and this episode was quickly added to the stack of infractions. Dean Dickerson had heard plenty about my escapades and when this reached his very sharp ears, he had heard enough. Before he had the opportunity to talk to me however, I, with drunken delight, put a fire axe through a dorm door. I was in his office promptly at 8:00 A.M. the next morning. “Charles,” Dean Dickerson sighed, leaning back in his chair. “I hardly know where to begin.” He studied me for a minute or 100 QUEST

two, lips pursed, slowly shaking his head. I did not need to be told I was in deep trouble. He chose his words carefully, making sure I understood the full impact. “I am appalled to hear about your recent behavior, especially after what you pulled on Smith’s housemother. She called me yesterday and I don’t have to tell you she was pretty upset. Violating curfew and being drunk are bad enough, but sassing the housemother and showing her your butt, or anyone else for that matter, are not acceptable behaviors. And how do you expect to pay for the dorm door you damaged? What do you have to say for yourself?” “Not much, sir,” I said meekly. “I got carried away, I guess.” “Yes, sir, I believe you did.” He paused for a moment, as I stood there squirming, hands behind my back and trying, without success, to hold my head high. He let me stand there, shifting my feet, for another minute or two. It seemed much longer. He was very good at letting Freshmen have plenty of time to reflect about their infractions before passing judgment. I waited for his next words, which I was quite sure by now I did not want to hear. “Charles,” he finally said again. “You have a lot of potential. You are smart and a very good athlete, yet you throw it away. You need to pull yourself together, and I do not believe you will be able to do that if you continue here. We expect our students to conform to acceptable social norms and our rules. I am sad to do what I have to do now, but I have no choice. You have three options: I can expel you right now, you face possible jail time, or you can lend two precious years of your young life to Uncle Sam. Before you make a decision, would you like me to contact your father?” “Oh no, sir,” I quickly replied. “I’ll call him.” I thought for only a moment. I might not have been a good student, but I was smart enough to know this was no contest. I had to answer to my father and if I had chosen anything other than Uncle Sam, I would have been in even greater trouble. “I’ll choose Uncle Sam, sir,” I responded meekly. I had not expected to be expelled, and I certainly did not want to go to jail. Two weeks later, Dartmouth was behind me and I reported to the Army training base at Fort Dix, New Jersey, where I played on according to a current player, Pfeifer’s “influence and spirit still lies within the heart of the team;” Pfeifer and the men from FOB-4.

BOOKS the other. History has it as 30-30-5. We all knew the game would the “Burros” football team as an end and running back. What was supposed to be punishment and/or exile, for my be hard-fought and tough, but we were ready. Staubach finished Dartmouth behavior, turned out, ostensibly, to be a two-year minus 22 on the day, and completed 12 of 20 passes for around “football scholarship.” I absolutely loved my stint there, even 120 yards. A single deciding field goal: Army 11, Navy 8. [...] though it was not all fun. A lot of hard work was involved and I had been a mediocre Cadet at West Point, graduating at the I quickly learned discipline and respect. I cannot say that my wildness was over, but I was a lot better. I guess I had begun to top of the bottom third of my class. I was smart enough to graduate with a better record, but I had difficulty focusing on acagrow up. After my stint at Fort Dix ended in 1960, I reported to Fort demics. I still wanted to have a good time within the confines of Benning, Georgia, and played football on its team, the “Dough- the West Point community. So I did what I needed to do to gradboys,” again as an end and running back. A football scout from uate, but that was it. The only people to whom I had endeared West Point saw me play there, and thought I would make a good myself were my cohorts in crime. Sometimes accompanied by running back for West Point. Consequently, he vetted and rec- my friend and fellow Cadet, Bobby Jones, I spent a lot of hours walking back and forth with a rifle on my shoulder, called “walkommended me. When my father heard this, he called me. “Son, you are one ing the area.” This was West Point’s punishment for demerits lucky boy. You are considered a rogue student and this is a rogue and offenses against the rules. Some Cadets were punished with confinement, except for student’s ticket back into visits to the bathroom, the an Ivy League college. I library and for meals, so will immediately arrange there were others worse for the necessary recomthan me. mendation letter.” He [...] could not wait to contact I could never have a Connecticut congressimagined a time when I man, who wrote the letter would realize that being and I was in. I reported to privileged might be a mithe United States Military rage. I did not realize that Preparatory School at Fort privilege does not, nor can Belvoir, where I studied it, provide insulation from until May 1961 and then the vicissitudes of life. moved on to West Point [...] Military Academy in July Recently, I received a of 1961. letter from a West Point I played on the West football player, which Point football team under This page: The crowd at Elaine’s included Pfeifer and writer George Plimpton (left); moved me. It read: the coaching of Paul DiPfeifer with General Vo Nguyen Giap in 1993 (right). “My name is Drew etzel and Dale Hall. West Point had a big-school schedule, such as Pitt, Penn State, Syra- Hennessy (#73) and I am a firstie right tackle on the Army football team. I am writing to you today because we share the same cuse and, of course, its all-time rival, Navy. An injured shoulder, badly injured knees, and subsequent home state, beautiful New York, and both represented the greatsurgeries knocked me out of football. However, even though I est team in this nation. One of the proudest accomplishments was sidelined with injuries, I was dressed and still part of West of my life was my entrance into the Army football brotherhood Point’s team. The unquestioned highlight of my football career and being able to represent this nation and my brothers before was the 65th Classic between the Army Black Knights and the me. Although you are no longer on the fields of Michie, (outNavy Midshipmen, in November 1964. The game played out be- door stadium on the campus of the U. S. Military Academy in fore a crowd of 100,000, including 2,700 cheering Cadets, in the West Point) your influence and spirit still lies within the heart John F. Kennedy stadium in Philadelphia. Carl Roland (“Rollie”) of this football team. I firmly believe that there is no stronger Stichweh, Army’s quarterback, was probably the greatest ground bond in this country than the Army football brotherhood and gainer in West Point history. Recently, he was inducted into the the relationship we as players form both on and off the field. As my brother, and my fellow believer in this team, I promise to give Army’s Football Hall of Fame. We stay in frequent touch. Every football fan knows that Roger Staubach, Navy’s quarter- my heart and soul to this team so that you are still represented. back, went on to become one of the NFL’s greatest. Both Stich- I vow to honor those before me and carry out the winning tradiweh and Staubach were seniors and badly wanted to go out as tion that embodies this group and this institution. We as a team winners. Stichweh says of this 1964 game: “That win was the gift will no longer settle for anything less than success and when we that keeps on giving for the decades that follow. It’s a topic of finally attain that goal, we will have your presence in our hearts. discussion every time our old team gets together—and each play I hope that you enjoy this season as we go forth and honor the values that this brotherhood was founded on. Please keep on becomes greater every time we tell it.” Neither West Point nor Navy had ever won six in a row against believing in this team and this strong brotherhood.” u M AY 2 0 1 6 1 0 1

CALENDAR

MAY SET SAIL

The Sailing Foundation of New York will present its 2016 Golden Spinnaker Gala benefiting the U.S. Olympic and Paralympic sailing teams at the New York Yacht Club at 6 p.m. For more information, call 212.945.6363.

ON THE CATWALK

The Future of Fashion runway show will take place at the Fashion Institute of Technology’s Fred P. Pomerantz Design Center at 6 p.m. For more information, call 212.691.2800.

FEMALE ROLE MODELS

The 15th Women Who Care Awards Luncheon will take place at Cipriani 42nd Street at 11 a.m. For more information, call 212.678.0231.

A GOOD FUTURE

Inner-City Scholarship Fund will host its Friends Gala at Cipriani 42nd Street at 6:30 p.m. For more information, call 212.843.9312.

HUMANITARIANS

The Parkinson’s Disease Foundation will celebrate its al du Printemps Gala at the Metropolitan Club at 6:30 p.m. For more information, call 212.821.0802. TRANSFORMATIONS

The Kips Bay Decorator Show House will host its opening night event at the Carlton House Townhouse (19 East 61st Street) at 6 p.m. For more information, call 212.822.8163.

FRANCOPHILE FUN

Breast Cancer Alliance will host its Walk For Hope 5k run at Richards of Greenwich at 8:30 a.m. Supports will be able to run or walk to honor those whose lives have been impacted by breast cancer. For more nformation, call 203.861.0014.

Fountain House will hold its symposium at The Pierre at 11:15 a.m. Sheila Nevins, president of HBO Documentary Films, will be honored with the Fountain House Humanitarian Award. For more information, call 212.874.5457.

The Central Park Conservancy’s Frederick Law Olmsted Awards Luncheon will talk place at the Central Park Conservatory Garden (located at 105th Street and Fifth Avenue) at 11 a.m. For more information, call 212.310.6642.

RUN FOR A CAUSE

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LOOKING FOR ANSWERS

THE HAT LUNCHEON

Alliance Française de Chicago will host its annual Board Biennial Gala at the Four Seasons in Chicago. For more information, call 312.337.1070.

SPRING SAUTÉ

American Ballet Theatre will host its 2016 Spring Gala at the Metropolitan Opera House at 6:30 p.m. The program will feature a performance by Alessandra Ferri. For more information, call 212.362.6000.

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

On May 5, the Fashion Institute of Technology will present its Future of Fashion runway show honoring Dennis Basso, featuring outfits created by FIT’s top graduating design students—including looks in sportswear, intimate apparel, and children’s wear. For more information, call 212.691.2800.

OUT NOW

GIVING

THE NEW FRAGRANCE BY MEERA GANDHI

AVAILABLE AT: WWW.GIVINGBACKFRAGRANCE.COM, THE FOUNDATION WEBSITE: WWW.GIVINGBACKFOUNDATION.NET AND AT PRIVATE EVENTS

CALENDAR

MAY

CHECK AND TURN

The 9th annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic will take place at Liberty State Park. The event will offer a unique opportunity to experience a polo game firsthand. For more information, visit vcpoloclassic.com.

EASTERN FLAIR

On May 17, the French American Foundation will host its 40th Anniversary Gala Dinner at the Mandarin Oriental at 6 p.m. For more information, call 212.463.0684. SUPPORTIVE COMMUNITY

The French American Foundation will celebrate its 40th anniversary at the Mandarin Oriental at 6 p.m. For more information, call 212.463.0684.

The Boys’ Club of New York will honor William B. Tyree and Jacqueline R. Williams at its annual Awards Dinner at the Mandarin Oriental. For more information, call 212.752.2920.

FIRST AMENDMENT

GOOD RELATIONS

The Reporters Committee for Freedom of the Press will host its 2016 Freedom of the Press Awards at The Pierre at 6:30 p.m. For more information, call 212.254.6677. DINNER AND DANCING

The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering will hold its 9th annual Spring Ball at The Plaza at 7 p.m. For more information, call 212.639.2103.

GO CRIMSON

The Harvard Business School Club of Greater New York will host its annual Leadership Dinner at the American Museum of Natural History at 6 p.m. For more information, call 212.763.8594. CLEAN WATER

Riverkeeper’s 50th Anniversary Fisherman’s Ball, advocating a clean Hudson River, will take place at Pier Sixty at Chelsea Piers at 6:30 p.m. For more information, call 212.763.8693. 104 QUEST

SHUCK ’EM

JUNE 2

LONG AND STRAIGHT

Saratoga National Golf Club rwill host the Warren Washington Arc Charity Golf Tournament supporting the programs and services of the WWAARC. For more information, call 518.583.4653.

SUMMER IN THE CIT Y

Central Park Conservancy’s annual Taste of Summer event will take place at Bethesda Terrace in Central Park at 7 p.m. Patrons will be able to enjoy chefs’ tasting menus, summer-themed libations, a silent auction, and top-notch entertainment. For more information, call 212.446.2242.

Newport’s Waterfront Oyster Festival will take place at the tents at Bowen’s Wharf. For more information, call 401.841.8884.

PRESERVATION

The Gordon Parks Foundation 10th Anniversary Awards Dinner and Auction will take place at Cipriani 42nd Street at 6 p.m. For more information, call 914.579.1000.

EAST END ART

The Hampton Bay Historical Society will present its annual Memorial Day Weekend Outdoor Art Show at 116 West Montauk Highway. Artists from the East End and its surrounding areas will have their original artworks and matted prints for sale at the event. All proceeds from the show will help preserve the historic heritage of the Hampton Bays community. For more information, call 631.728.0887.

On May 4, the 34th Annual Frederick Law Olmsted Awards Luncheon will take place at the Conservatory Garden (105th Street and Fifth Avenue) at 11 a.m. For more information, call 212.310.6642.

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

The Japanese Garden Centennial Gala will take place at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden at 5:30 p.m. The evening’s menu will be designed and prepared by Chef Yuhi Fujinaga (of New York City’s The Sea Grill and Orlando’s Morimoto Asia) in the celebratory style of his homeland with modern Japanese technique and spirit. Festive botanical attire is highly encouraged. For more information, call 718.623.7356.

Ballet beauty Brittany DeGrofft makes for a stunning swan, especially when highlighted by Fabergé’s White Damask earrings, the Serpenti white gold thin necklace with diamonds by Bulgari, Verdura’s white gold and diamond Kensington cuff, and the “Two Butterfly” between-the-finger ring featuring tsavorite garnets and diamonds in white and yellow gold by Van Cleef & Arpels.

SWANS WHO SPARKLE DIRECTED AND STYLED BY DANIEL CAPPELLO PHOTOGRAPHED BY JULIE SKARRATT

JEWELRY AND BALLET go hand in hand: there’s an aspirational element to each, and the idea of some sort of ultimate and attainable beauty or perfection. In the ballet, there are often jewel tones at play—in the costumes, the sets, even in the theaters and opera houses where dance takes place. Beading on a tutu is meant to catch the light and shimmer on stage like a string of diamonds. For jewelry, as for ballet, form is everything—a vocabulary that is used and referenced time and again in its most basic elements, then reinterpreted and reimagined in unexpected ways to elicit a sense of wonderment. Then there is the seeming contradiction: each of these art forms is at the same time supremely delicate and impressively durable. The clasp of an intricately crafted diamond necklace might appear to hang on by a single stone alone, while a lithe ballerina floats across the stage solely on the tips of her tiny toes. The tender gracefulness of each leaves us fascinated at how that necklace, weighed down by platinum and outsize stones, stays fixed upon a neck, or how those ethereal legs manage to stay afloat for so long under such physical challenge. Never were these comparisons made clearer than when we decided for this Jewelry Issue to photograph some of the most impressive pieces of high jewelry on some of the most accomplished dancers in our midst. It made sense to call upon American Ballet Theatre since the opening of the company’s current season coincides so perfectly with our Jewelry Issue’s 106 QUEST

timing. This month, ABT begins its spring season at the Metropolitan Opera House, and will include a world-premiere work by ABT artist-in-residence Alexei Ratmansky as well as the American premiere of Ratmansky’s own version of The Golden Cockerel. Among the dancers set to inaugurate that ballet’s title role is Cassandra Trenary, one of ABT’s soloists and among its fastest-rising stars. Just last month, while on tour with the company, Trenary made her debut performance as Aurora in Ratmansky’s version of The Sleeping Beauty. Like a Harry Winston necklace glimmering behind the window of the jeweler’s Fifth Avenue flagship, Trenary has long caught our eye. So we invited her, along with gleaming corps de ballet stars Melanie Hamrick and Brittany DeGrofft, to be our muses for a day in the rehearsal studios at American Ballet Theatre. And who better to match the brilliance of these ballerinas? The houses of Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels, Fabergé, Verdura, and Bulgari, of course. The pairings made for some of the best partnering we’ve seen. Still, a princess could use a hand while fastening things on, especially if it’s Harry Winston’s “Queen,” a cascading drop necklace set in platinum with 704 diamonds weighing a total of 115.96 carats. To assist, ABT soloist Arron Scott ably stepped in to do his part. He also lent a strong hand at partnering to help bring our muses to new light. The reviews, from our seats, are resounding. So, without further ado, here are our swans who sparkle. u

Dressed exclusively in Ralph Lauren Collection, American Ballet Theatreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Brittany DeGrofft, Melanie Hamrick, and Cassandra Trenary sparkle in Harry Winstonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brightest stones, including, from left to right: the Secret Combination diamond necklace, bracelet, and earrings (on Brittany); the Mrs. Winston sapphire and diamond bracelet, Sunflower diamond necklace, oval-shaped sapphire ring, and Secret Cluster sapphire drop earrings and dome ring (on Melanie); and the Queen cascading diamond necklace, Cluster diamond bracelet, and Chandelier Cluster diamond earrings (on Cassandra).

Every swanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s entrance is even more effusive in diamonds, garnets, spinels, and sapphires, as Cassandra (in Van Cleef & Arpels), Melanie (in Van Cleef & Arpels), and Brittany (in FabergĂŠ, Bulgari, Verdura, and Van Cleef & Arpels) make clear.

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Soloist Arron Scott takes hold of Melanie, a figure in flight and a vision in Van Cleef & Arpelsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Palmyre diamond necklace and earrings, Snowflake diamond ring, and Cerfs-Volants bracelet in pink and mauve sapphires, diamonds, and white and gray mother of pearl in white and rose gold.

The ladies remain en pointe and on key in Valentino dresses and, from left to right: Fabergé’s Zhivago earrings with Verdura’s Maltese Cross cuff, South Sea pearl necklace, and Wrapped South Sea pearl ring (on Brittany); Fabergé’s Délices D’Été Lumière earrings and Zhivago ring with Verdura’s Love Knot ring, sapphire and diamond Fan bracelet, and No. 94 cuff (on Melanie); and Fabergé’s Charmeuse Créoles earrings with Verdura’s Eternity band, No. 85 cuff, and No. 34 cuff (on Cassandra).

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Arron raises the “barre” on partnering by adorning Cassandra in Van Cleef & Arpels’ diamond, spinel, and pink sapphire Enchanteur necklace, diamond Snowflake earrings, À Cheval diamond bracelet, and “Two Butterfly” pink sapphire and diamond ring. All beauty styling: Niko Lopez, NARS Makeup Artist (makeup), and Mario Mele of Oscar Blandi Salon, New York (hair).

112 QUEST

Brittany is the portrait of composure in a lace-top dress by Valentino and Fabergé’s pearl and diamond Zhivago earrings set in white gold paired Verdura’s South Sea pearl necklace; South Sea pearl, platinum, and diamond Wrapped ring; and diamond, black jade, and gold Black & White Maltese Cross Cuff.

Arron and Cassandra make a sweeping pair, as does the pairing of this Valentino dress with Fabergé’s oxidized silver, pavé diamond, and gold Charmeuse Créoles earrings along with Verdura’s gray agate and amethyst No. 34 cuff, gray agate and diamond Écailles No. 85 cuff, and diamond Eternity band.

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Brittany, in a lightweight suede pant and silk chiffon beaded top by Ralph Lauren Collection, is steady as a rock in Harry Winston diamonds, including a pearshaped diamond cluster ring and the Secret Combination diamond necklace, bracelet, and earrings.

QUEST ARCHIVE: MAY 2004

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QUEST ARCHIVE: MAY 2004

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120 QUEST

QUEST ARCHIVE: MAY 2004

JAMES’S GORGEOUS GEMS

“MAKING JEWELRY is very close to architecture. Every piece is a puzzle to be solved,” according to James Taffin de Givenchy. At the Madison Avenue headquarters of Taffin, de Givenchy’s eponymous-to-his-middle-name jewelry line, that concept is evident throughout, where the showroom’s design is as meticulously considered as the layout of the objets d’art around the space—to say nothing of the jewelry itself. De Givenchy designed the by-appointment salon with accent walls and furnishings in his signature color, which can best be described as a vivid hue of “tomato coral.” This illustrates the French side of de Givenchy: sophisticated with a sense of humor (next time you see a young Frenchman in a suit, particularly at a wedding, ask him to show you his socks— you will be pleasantly surprised at the lighthearted colors and patterns they will reveal). The nephew of famed couturier Hubert de Givenchy, James de Givenchy was raised in Beauvais, a small town almost 50 miles north of Paris. But 122 QUEST

the siren’s call of the New World soon brought him to these shores, and his bicultural immersion began to take effect, not just on his personality, but on his work. He started by studying graphic design at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, where he developed a draftsman’s touch. After briefly running a Givenchy flagship store, Christie’s jewelry department welcomed de Givenchy into their fold, and from there the jewelry bug took hold. He then earned his gem bona fides as a vice president at Verdura, and as a creative director for Sotheby’s Diamonds from 2008 to 2011. While at Sotheby’s, he caused a bit of a stir when he created a collection for them by setting diamonds in gunmetal, a move that he claimed some people regarded as “a real no-no.” That audacity, that willingness to be fresh and exciting in the face of tradition, is what illustrates the American side of the man. He is the perfect combination of French sophistication and American modernity, and his Franco-

CO U RTE S Y O F TA F F I N

B Y L I LY H O A G L A N D

This page: Designer James de Givenchy embodies and brings to his work the perfect blend of French sophistication and American modernity. Opposite page: An example of Taffinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s designs ofusing the bright orange of the gems to encircle the stonesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; settings.

This spread, clockwise from top left: Taffin’s showroom; a candy shank ring with a yellow diamond; using diamonds in settings; ring with green band; Opal “Spider” brooch; statement bracelet; a kunzite brooch; one of the most popular Taffin ring designs; Rubelite, Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Moonstone, Ruby and Platinum “Star” Brooch; yellow diamond with red band.

American creations fuse Paris chic with Manhattan excitement. Take, for example, his playful rings of brightly colored gems paired with the even more brightly colored ceramic bands: they manage the difficult feat of being both elegant and whimsical at the same time. Since launching Taffin in 1996, the haute couture jeweler has developed the reputation as a connoisseur of exotic gems who can create intricate and unique settings which flatter not just the stones, but also the wearer. A piece by de Givenchy will not be lost in a crowd, even if everyone is wearing serious bling, because of the aristocratic eye he possesses, which knows how to balance the tasteful with the unexpected. He has a healthy disrespect for the tired conventions of fine jewelry design, while knowing instinctively what are the real hallmarks of quality. His obsession over the details of construction translates into pieces that are extraordinary yet unpretentious. He’ll mix commonplace materials with exalted stones, or glorify a gem that most jewelers might pass over—a trait he shares with that other famous contemporary French fine jeweler, Joel Arthur Rosenthal. Though, in comparison, JAR designs are more flowery where Taffin’s are more edgy, which is reflective of the slightly bad-boy allure of de Givenchy himself (which is just his “look”—in reality, he’s a very happy husband to wife Gina and father to their daughter Stella). Imaginative, luxurious, inventive, one-of-a-kind: clients keep trying to come up with new ways of explaining the beauty behind Taffin. “I am trying to safeguard a craft that is being lost,” de Givenchy once said. “Jewelry is an emotional object that projects who you are. It takes artistry, intellect and logic to make it.” u 124 QUEST

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Patek Philippe SKY MOON TOURBILLON / This minute repeater is a true masterpiece. In fact, only a few are produced. In white gold with black enamel dial featuring champleve and cloisonné enamel, Patek Philippe’s double-faced Sky Moon Tourbillon wristwatch offers a minute repeater with a Cathedral chime. Also: a perpetual calendar with retrograde date; hours and minutes of mean solar time; and moon phases. It’s the perfect treat for the watch connoisseur; price upon request.

TIME KEEPERS BY ALEX TRAVERS

“A gentleman’s choice of timepiece says as much about him as does his Saville Row suit,” author Ian Fleming once said. Let us help you pick the perfect one. 126 QUEST

CO U RTE S Y O F R E S P E C T I V E B R A N D S

Rolex OYSTER PERPETUAL COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA / Rolex recently introduced a new version of its Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona in 904L steel with a monobloc Cerachrom bezel. This latest evolution is a blend of technology and sleek aesthetics, paying tribute to the heritage of this legendary chronograph. The black bezel is also reminiscent of the 1965 model that was fitted with a black Plexiglas bezel insert; $12,400. M AY 2 0 1 6 1 2 7

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1) With just 100 made, Hublot’s Paris Saint-Germain is a uniquely designed tribute to the Parisian football club; price upon request. 2) The Tag Heuer Carrera is a contemporary timepiece inspired by the races at Carrera Panamericana; price upon request. 3) Sinn’s 857 UTC is a workhorse of a watch; $857. 4) Powered by light energy, this Seiko chronograph from the brand’s Recraft series is the perfect watch for the sports enthusiast; $375. 5) The Weekend Fairfield by Timex features a minimalist dial design with a strap that pops; $60. 6) Movado’s Bold Motion comes equipped with Bluetooth connectivity; $695. 7) Swatch’s Faux Fox is sleek and stylish; $75. 8) A large 50-mm diameter gives Breitling’s Avenger Hurricane a bold look; price upon request. 9) Ulysse Nardin honors America’s Cup namesake with its new Classico Schooner America; price upon request. 128 QUEST

Panerai

CO U RTE S Y O F R E S P E C T I V E B R A N D S

PANERAI RADIOMIR / The 10 Days GMT model

maintains the key characteristics of Officine Paneraiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s classic Radiomir, which was designed and manufactured for military use. But the case of the Radiomir 10 Days GMT is 47 mm. and is made of stainless steelâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; watertight to up to 100 meters. The winding crown also has a conical shape for easier handling. The dial reflects the essential appearance typical of Panerai, featuring a sandwich structure conceived for exceptional visibility; price upon request. M AY 2 0 1 6 1 2 9

Ralph Lauren watch was inspired by Ralph Lauren’s own 1938 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic Coupe, one of the most prized sports cars in the world. Visible through a sapphire crystal front and back, the timepiece’s RL1967-caliber mechanical movement evokes the powerful engine under the vehicle’s hood; an amboyna burlwood bezel recalls its sleek wooden dashboard. The finely engineered stainless steel design is stunning, and embodies Lauren’s passion for the open road; $50,000. 130 QUEST

CO U RTE S Y O F R E S P E C T I V E B R A N D S

45 MM SKELETON STEEL / The 45 MM Skeleton Steel

1) Piaget’s Polo Forty Five watch is the perfect timepiece to wear to the matches this summer; $18,000. 2) The Chronometerwerke Power Reserve by Wempe always looks great; $9,200. 3) IWC Schaffhausen’s Portugieser Annual Calendar Edition Tribeca Film Festival 2016 made more than a few red carpet appearances this year; $21,500. 4) Tourneau’s TNY Series 44 Chrono Automatic; price upon request. 5) The Longines Conquest is a new model dedicated specifically to the discipline of Jumping; price upon request. 6) Chopard’s LUC Chrono One in 18-kt. white gold; $40,206. 7) Drive de Cartier was designed specifically for the pioneers, leaders, and newcomers carving their own paths in life; price upon request. 8) The Original Senator Chronometre by Glashütte features a stunning dark blue dial; $32,200.

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BY ALEX TRAVERS

CO U RTE S Y O F B A S E LWO R L D

SEE NOW, BUY NOW AT BASELWORLD

GLOBAL SHIPMENTS OF smartwatches overtook Swiss watch shipments in the last quarter of 2015, but that doesn’t mean the luxury watch market is in trouble. It’s just going to have to play catch-up in a different way: by making its products available the minute they are announced. When it comes to what we choose to wear, or not to wear, everything is a decision. The care, instinctive or otherwise, that goes into our appearance is usually obvious, and watches play a big role in our overall look. For many, a watch is a status symbol, a reminder of a milestone in life. And yet for some, watches are

This page, clockwise from top left: At Baselworld, Boucheron debuted Reflet Bleu de Jodhpur, a pair of sleek, limited-edition versions of its classic Reflet model; new from Van Cleef & Arpels—the Lady Arpels Ronde des Papillons; the New Retro W S07 by De Grisogono; magazines at Baselworld 2016; the Fabergé Dalliance Lady Levity with its unique “man in the moon”; the Bulgari Serpenti Incantati Skeleton Tourbillon is a mechinical delight. Opposite page: Scenes from the opening of Baselworld 2016. M AY 2 0 1 6 1 3 3

CO U RTE S Y O F B A S E LWO R L D

these changes are showcased and announced, it’s been beneficial to make the items immediately available. This see-now-buy-now idea has been working well in the fashion world, and watchmakers are slowly starting to take notice. It comes down to one thing: instant gratification. If a new model is announced, buyers want it the moment they see it on Instagram. Sometimes, making this happen can be complicated, but watchmakers are working on making this a possibility. Some, like Tudor, already have. In short, the Swiss watch world shouldn’t be too worried about the smartwatch craze—at least until they figure out a way to make our phones obsolete. (But hey: they survived Quartz, right?) Until then, if they want to stand out, the focus should be on making new products available right away. u

P H OTO C R E D I T G O E S H E R E

simply functional tools that tell the time of day. There are, however, several people who argue that we don’t need watches anymore; our phones can tell us the time and date. Others still relish in the development of mechanical and modern timepieces—for both their artistic and technological advancements. And while smartwatches are gaining traction, it’s hard to argue that they offer the wearer a unique piece of jewelry that will appreciate or hold its value over time. Unlike the fashion and technology worlds, the luxury watch industry isn’t really driven by trends. Sure, these Swiss brands update their timepieces and show them off at Baselworld each year, but they rarely overhaul their image. Instead, they make tweaks to their models by changing the color of the dial or using different types of materials for the bracelets. But now, once

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This page, clockwise from top left: The Bell & Ross X1 Tourbillon is a watch of extreme sophistication; Tudor’s Heritage Black Bay bronze model, a 44-mm. diver’s watch; the Tetra Neomatik by Nomos looks like a timepiece from the Bauhaus movement; the 44-mm. Frogman is a fresh take on Hamilton’s famous 1943 Diver; Bremont’s Boeing 100 is a tribute to the aircraft manufacturer; lovers of high-precision watches will fall for Jacquet Droz’s Grande Seconde; The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Pyeongchang 2018, limited edition watch for the upcoming Winter Olympics; a crowd at Baselworld 2016 (inset). Opposite page: Inside and outside Baselworld 2016, the world’s largest international watch show.

THE ART OF THE CRAFT “IN TODAY’S RETAIL LANDSCAPE,” explains Terry Betteridge, the fifth-generation jeweler and CEO of his family’s eponymous business, “I think we stand apart in holding our ground on quality.” In a sea of jewels that seem to get larger and larger, louder and louder, Terry likens his company’s approach to that of a different era. “We do things much more in the Edwardian sense, focusing on delicacy and strength.” And if any jeweler should know about strength and standing the test of time, it’s this house. Betteridge, Greenwich’s beloved jeweler, has a long and storied history, with roots dating back to the finest jewelers and silversmiths of the 1700s in Birmingham, England. Today, as one of America’s preeminent jewelers (with stores outside of Greenwich in Palm Beach, Vail, and Aspen), the company recently turned another page in the family history when it left its longtime clapboard-townhouse home at 117 Greenwich Avenue and relocated last year to 239 Greenwich Avenue. The new, two-level space spans more than 12,000 square feet and includes a main jewelry room, a designer jewelry showcase, specific brand-dedicated salons (think Rolex, Cartier, and Patek Philippe), and the grand compilation watch bar—an actual bar where staff parties can be held or where Terry himself might be seen toasting a client to celebrate a purchase, or enjoying a cocktail with colleagues after work.

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J A M E S K AT T

BY DANIEL CAPPELLO

This spread: A Betteridge bench jeweler putting the finishing polish on an engagement ring. Inset above and opposite: An exceptional 1920s natural pearl and multi-colored diamond tassel sautoirâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;an example of the extremely high quality of jewelry for sale at Betteridge.

This page: Scenes from the workshops at Betteridge, where master craftsmen pay attention to every detail in the creation of everything from custom engagement rings (above left, center, and below) to hand-engraving. Carlos Colonna (top right) has been the hands engraving some of the most important crests for presidents, movie stars, and Greenwich school teachers alike (sampling at bottom right). Opposite page: A view of the Betteridge flagship store at 239 Greenwich Avenue in Greenwich, Conn.

J A M E S K AT T

The store may be new, but the commitment to customer service—and, above all, quality—remains the same, if not emboldened. Sure, watches and iconic brands like Verdura, Seaman Schepps, and David Webb continue to attract customers, but so does the sense that this is a family-operated business invested in its clients’ family histories, too. “We know what works and what doesn’t,” Terry says confidently. Take, for instance, engagement rings. Brides-to-be can trust the Betteridge name because their families have been coming for generations, and because they know they are getting something that will stand the test of time. “Modern women are hard on their stuff,” he says, “and even for the simplest of settings that we do, you will see how every prong turns over and perfectly meets the stone.” Exactitude runs in the family. Terry, a gregarious, likeable man who’s like a guy you could see yourself grabbing a cooler of beer with to go fishing, revels in storytelling. He’s not shy about calling his grandfather “a bit of a rager,” meaning he was famous for throwing tantrums if the staff didn’t get things right. He was even known for throwing imperfect pieces of jewelry across the room to make a point. Still, he taught his workshop and his family not to settle for anything but perfection. He’d famously take a finished diamond and rub it down his tie: if it snagged even one silk strand out of place, it was immediately dismissed. Terry, though less prone to fly off the handle, is no less demanding in his call for quality. That’s why beneath the Betteridge boutique you’ll find a workshop spanning four rooms

dedicated to jewelry design and repair, jewelry manufacturing and repair, watch repair, and polishing and cleaning. Betteridge has eight bench jewelers, two engravers, and four master watchmakers in the building. Among those is Carlos Colonna, who is “the most accomplished engraver in the United States,” according to Terry, and who has been the hands engraving many of the most important crest rings, trophies, and sterling pieces in the world. On the average day, Colonna can be found sharpening his tools and refining his craft at Betteridge. Hand-engraving remains among the most difficult and important aspects of the jeweler’s craft, Terry explains. “At Betteridge, we’re blessed to have Carlos still working at the bench and continuing to produce enduring works of this nearly lost art.” Each of the examples Terry points to—a crest for John F. Kennedy here, a bishop’s crest there, or even a Minnie and Mickey crest done for Walt Disney—Colonna cut entirely with hand tools that he shaped himself. He continues to “wield with the skills and confidence gained over his 60-year career,” Terry boasts. It takes tens of thousands of hours to learn this kind of craft, and an unrelenting attention to detail, down to how one’s tools are kept. “Today, you’ll often see ‘butchery’ on micro-pavé,” Terry explains, “because no one knows how to polish a tool.” After sitting down to talk with Terry Betteridge, it becomes crystal—or diamond—clear: If it’s the highest quality you’re looking for in custom, re-fashioned, or new jewelry, Betteridge has the sharpest tools in the trade. u

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BROWN

YGL

THE YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST BY ELIZABETH QUINN BROWN

Lara Meiland-Shaw, Genevieve Bahrenburg, Alexandra Lind Rose, and Elizabeth Meigher at the launch of Armarium on April 7.

Clockwise from left: Dani Stahl; Edward Chapman and Katy Schell; Devon Windsor; Genevieve Jones and Trisha Gregory; Seth Tringale, Julia Loomis, Kevin Barba, Elizabeth Kurpis, and Zach Weiss, at the launch of Armarium on April 7.

THE LAUNCH OF ARMARIUM AT 583 PARK

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

ARMARIUM FOUNDERS Trisha Gregory and Alexandra

Lind Rose invited their friends in fashion to 583 Park on April 7. #JOINTHEARMI was the call as guests were guided to “Dismiss Decorum & Dress Daringly” (because, yas). ARMARIUM is a destination where those on the scene who adore clothes can browse and then borrow—from the app

or from the website. It was a party of PYTs, including Nina Agdal, Leah Bourne, Casey Fremont, Jihad Harkeem, Jessica Joffe, Genevieve Jones, Elizabeth Kurpis, Lee Savage, Dahlia Oberlander, and Alexandra Wilkis Wilson as well as Nell Diamond and Lauren Remington Platt, who starred in a video for the brand. M AY 2 0 1 6 1 4 1

Volkert and Savannah Engel; Nathasha Blodgett, Micheal Tomei, Lindsay Caspi, and John-Lansing Teal, at Tusk’s gala at Guastavino’s.

▲ TUSK’S GALA AT GUASTAVINO’S

▼ LUNCH FOR WILLIAM NORWICH AT CASA LEVER

TUSK (THE ORGANIZATION devoted to conservation in Africa, addressing issues such as the poaching of animals like elephants and rhinoceros) hosted its gala at Guastavino’s. The event honored Katie Carpenter, Bryan Christy, John Heminway, and JJ Kelley for the impact of their film, Explorer: Warlords of Ivory. Guests at the party and the after-party included: Natasha Blodgett, Chris Constable, Savannah Engel, Lara Glaister, and Asanka Pathiraja. A “roar”-ing time, on the Upper East Side...

WILLIAM NORWICH IS the toast of the town and, also, the toast

From left: Peggy Siegal and Cristina Cuomo; Derek Blasberg, Christopher Bollen, and Douglas Friedman; Gigi Mortimer, William Norwich, and Lauren Santo Domingo; Colby Jordan and Samantha Boardman, at a luncheon for My Mrs. Brown by William Norwich at Casa Lever. 142 QUEST

of midtown: On April 18, Derek Blasberg, Samantha Boardman, and Peggy Siegal celebrated the author and his book, My Mrs. Brown, at Casa Lever. There, the chicest of the cultured club (including Douglas Friedman, Sarah Hoover, Chloe Malle, Lauren Santo Domingo, and Zach Weiss) chatted about politics—gasp!—before they were treated to a cake featuring the cover of My Mrs. Brown. (It was pale blue and delicious.)

B FA . CO M ; PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

YGL

From left: Eliza Glaister and Lara Glaister; Pav

Clockwise from left: Rachelle Hruska and Sofia Sanchez de Betak; Dorian Grinspan and Constance Jablonski; Aleksandra Woroniecka, Waris Ahluwalia, and Miranda Brooks; Vanessa von Bismarck and Carlos Mota; and Leandra Medine, Valerie Boster, and Meredith Melling, with Globe-Trotter and The Luxury Collection for a launch at Loukoumi Taverna.

SOFIA SANCHEZ DE BETAK INTRODUCED HER COLLECTION FOR GLOBE-TROTTER

B FA . CO M

SOFÍA SANCHEZ DE BETAK— the Buenos Aires–born/New

York–based influencer who has been named as “best dressed” by Vogue—debuted her collection for Globe-Trotter with a dinner at Loukoumi Taverna. VIPs (including Waris Ahluwalia, Valerie Boster, Linda Fargo, Rachelle Hruska, and Leandra Medine) “globetrotted” to the borough of Queens, where they were treated to Greek cuisine as well as a preview of the col-

laboration—whose design was inspired by The Luxury Collection’s properties in Greece: Hotel Grande Bretagne in Athens, Santa Marina in Mykonos, The Romanos in Costa Navarino, and Mystique and Vedma in Santorini. (Peep globe-trotter.com or luxurycollectionstore.com to purchase.) Basically, the evening was the opposite of My Big Fat Greek Wedding—more, “my intimate, chic, Greek soirée.” So, opa! u M AY 2 0 1 6 1 4 3

SNAPSHOT

DIAMONDS, they say, are a girl’s best friend. And ballerinas are no exception to the rule. For this issue, our annual Jewelry Issue, we took to the studios of American Ballet Theatre to photograph three dancers dripping in diamonds and gemstones (see page 106). For artists who are trained to keep their composure, even our dancers couldn’t help but buckle and gush whenever 20 to 100 carats of diamonds were laid upon their necks or strung from their ears. But what about man’s best friend? Dogs, it’s true, remain beloved by the entire human race, gender notwithstanding. I bet even Queen Elizabeth would offer her kingdom for her corgis. Once again, ballerinas are no exception to the rule. In fact, on normal days, when jewelry isn’t occupying the ABT studios, you’re likely to spot any number of the dancers’ dogs. Some of them have been snapped so much on social media that they’ve become stars in their own right, on equal footing with their parents’ bold-faced ballet-world names (they’ve even cornered the hashtag #dogsofabt). Pickles, an adorable Shiffon owned by corps de ballet dancer Lauren Post, has her own Instagram handle, @omg_pickles. Click on her feed and you’ll gush yourself with a capital 144 QUEST

OMG. This bundle of cuteness is a “very strong dog with a strong personality,” according to her mom, and it shows. “She is kind of like our therapy dog,” Post explains. “We love having Pickles in the studio. When she comes to work with me she gets lots of attention and cuddles from the dancers.” Pickles, along with her fellow dancer-dog friends—like principal Marcelo Gomes’s dachshund Lua (@luamarce) and soloist Devon Teuscher’s pup Riley (#thelifeofri)—are so popular that they bring their own press (Lua even appeared with his dad in an ad for the launch of the New York Times Real Estate app). Recently, Suzanne Donaldson, a.k.a. Mrs. Sizzle, the self-proclaimed “expert on all things chic pet” and founder of MrsSizzle.com, commissioned the photographer Noe DeWitt to do a portrait series of the ABT dogs in their parents’ work habitat. The shot featured here shows Pickles up on her legs just like her mom. “She knows when it is lunchtime and does all of her tricks until someone gives her a snack,” Post explains. “She is relentless.” This only goes to show: you have to be relentless—and determined—to make it in ballet. Just ask Pickles. —Daniel Cappello

NOE DEWITT

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