Quest May 2019

$5.00 MAY 2019

THE JEWELRY ISSUE SOPHIE KRAKOFF WEARING TIFFANY & CO. AT THE FLEUR ROOM IN CHELSEA

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33 33sunset sunsetavenue, avenue,westhampton westhamptonbeach, beach, new new york york (631) (631) 288-4800 288-4800 main street, southampton village, new york (631) 283-5050 14 14 main street, southampton village, new york (631) 283-5050 2287 montaukhighway, highway,bridgehampton, bridgehampton,new newyork york (631) (631)537-5454 537-5454 2287montauk montauk highway, east hampton, new york (631) 324-7575 26 26 montauk highway, east hampton, new york (631) 324-7575

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prime hamptons hamptons real real estate estate prime

on reserve in the heart of of sagaponack sagaponack 8 Bedrooms Bedrooms || 88 Baths, Baths, 22 Half Half || 10,500 10,500++//- sq. sq. ft. ft. || 1.3 1.3Acres Acres 8 Newly village compound, compound, overlooks overlooks 25 25 acres acres of of open open field field reserve, reserve,heated heatedgunite gunitepool, pool,pool poolhouse, house, Newly completed completed village finished lower lower level level with with theater theater and and gym, gym, beautifully beautifully renovated renovatedhistoric historicguest guesthouse house finished Sagaponack Village Village || Exclusive Exclusive $8,895,000 $8,895,000 || 673SagaponackRoad.com 673SagaponackRoad.com Sagaponack

Terry Cohen

Licensed Licensed Real Real Estate Estate Salesperson Salesperson

C: C: (631) (631) 804-6100 804-6100 || TCohen@Saunders.com TCohen@Saunders.com

Kieran Brew Brew

Licensed Real Real Estate Estate Salesperson Salesperson Licensed

C: (631) (631) 702-5764 702-5764 || KBrew@Saunders.com KBrew@Saunders.com C:

JenniferBrew Brew Jennifer

LicensedAssociate AssociateReal RealEstate EstateBroker Broker Licensed

C:(631) (631)377-1862 377-1862 | | JBrew@Saunders.com JBrew@Saunders.com C:

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wempe.com

BOLD GOLD COLLECTION | robertocoin.com

EST. 1870

ART F I N D L AY

MOHAMADOU M’BAYE • Les Sacrifiees 5/8 • Aubusson tapestry • 63 5/8 x 48 in

WALL HANGINGS The African Motifs and More

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EST. 1870

ART F I N D L AY

OUR YACHTS ARE BUILT JUST FOR YOU AND CARED FOR ENTIRELY BY US.

WITH 10 LOCATIONS NATIONWIDE, ONLY HINCKLEY HAS MADE THE INVESTMENT TO PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT.

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YACHT CARE CENTERS Southwest Harbor, ME

Portsmouth, RI

Annapolis, MD

Savannah, GA

Naples, FL

Northeast Harbor, ME

Stamford, CT

Oxford, MD

Stuart, FL

Fort Myers, FL

Belle Terre, NY

Brookville, NY – Timeless Tradition

Drive through the gates to Belle Terre, pass the Gatehouse and arrive at this restored 1909 Tudor. Custom kitchen with Holiday cabinetry, Carrara Marble counters, Bertazzoni stove and Sub-Zero appliances. Patio, in-ground pool, greenhouse and Carriage House with loft compliment the 1.98 picturesque and level acres.

SD #6. MLS# 3109679. $1,125,000.

Miriam Ainbinder, 631.689.6980, c.631.988.9200

Sprawling classic brick French Manor home set on over 3 exquisite acres of sweeping lawns, flowering shrubs and specimen trees on famed private lane. Very special residence. Location offers courtyard entry, gracious open foyer, spacious formal principle rooms and 2 separate living/bedroom wings. Updated gas heat/central AC systems and 3-car heated and cooled custom-built garage. SD #3. MLS# 3114329. $2,495,000.

Danielle Laria, 516.922.9155 ext.118, c.516.238.8128

Cold Spring Harbor, NY – “Belvedere”

Southold, NY – “Bayside Bleu”

Enjoy beautiful sunsets from high on a bluff overlooking Cold Spring Harbor. A long driveway leads to a beautiful French Provincial home on a manageable 6+ acres with Guest Cottage, 3-car garage, pool and sports court. Beautiful architectural details, 11 ft. ceilings and 4 fireplaces. A Masterpiece Collection Listing.

SD #2. MLS# 2950478. $4,500,000.

Kathryn (Cottie) Maxwell-Pournaras, 516.759.4800 ext.131 c.516.857.3011

Manicured grounds welcome guests to this grand waterfront home.

Approximately 5,000 sq. ft. on 1 acre with a 153 ft. stretch of sandy bay beach and endless views of blue water across to Shelter Island, plus a heated gunite pool. 5 bedrooms, 4 baths, including a guest suite with private entrance make this home one not to be missed. A Masterpiece Collection Listing. SD #5. MLS# 3064269. $3,250,000.

Mariah Mills, 631.477.0013, c.631.965.2557 Carol Szynaka, 631.734.5439, c.917.640.2622

Glen Cove, NY

Lawrence, NY – “Summer Breeze”

Fabulous 4-bedroom Colonial, completely redone to suit a modern lifestyle. Features a 2-bedroom Cottage complete with kitchen, 4-stall Barn with water and electric and smaller 2-stall Barn. Backed by a 27-acre preserve. Special 2-acre lot in front of the house included in listing. SD #5. MLS# 3113840. $3,895,000.

Christina F. (Christy) Porter, 516.759.4800 ext.142, c.516.835.5512

This graceful Colonial residence is characterized by a refined ambiance and casual charm that embraces the natural beauty of the surroundings.

With magnificent water views, the home boasts 5 gracious bedrooms and sun-drenched principal rooms that open to expansive marshes and breathtaking sunsets. A Masterpiece Collection Listing. SD #15.

MLS# 3100905. $1,795,000.

Shari Fields-Darpino, 516.466.4036, c.516.695.6636

Daniel Gale Sotheby’s International Realty | danielgale.com

Matinecock, NY

Matinecock, NY

Charming updated Center Hall Colonial on 3.6 Matinecock acres with pool and formal gardens located on a secluded country lane.

Light and bright sitting high on a hill, this 7-bedroom home has wonderful entertaining space while offering classic style. Beautifully interpreted for today’s living. SD #3. MLS# 3117473. $2,895,000.

Christina F. (Christy) Porter, 516.759.4800 ext.142, c.516.835.5512

Tucked away on a private road this 5-bedroom, 4-bath custom-built home on 3 acres is a perfectly sized getaway. Both the living room and library come complete with cozy fireplaces and spectacular views of the pastoral grounds. First time on the market.

SD #3. MLS# 3079202. $2,300,000.

Kathryn (Cottie) Maxwell-Pournaras, 516.759.4800 ext.131 c.516.857.3011

Mill Neck, NY – Orchard House

Muttontown, NY – “Moon Gardens”

Quintessential country Compound offering an 1840 Farmhouse plus a 2-story gambrel roof barn. Set on a shy 2 acres this retreat has been beautifully renovated within the past 2 years. Among the many amenities are a multi-use barn with year-round playroom, gym, party room and spacious apartment. SD #3. MLS# 3119796. $1,495,000.

Bonnie L. Devendorf, 516.759.4800 ext.111, c.516.509.6229 Alexis McAndrew, 516.759.4800, c.917.750.8939

Elegant 7-bedroom brick Colonial on 1.36 acres in sought-after gated community of Stone Hill. 2 master suites with fireplaces. Putting green, sports court, outdoor kitchen with fire pit. Clubhouse with indoor pool, gym and tennis. 35 miles to Manhattan. A Masterpiece Collection Listing. SD #2. MLS# 3067655. $3,550,000.

Carol A. Cotton, 516.759.4800 ext.178, c.516.359.7946 Tracey Murray Kupferberg, 516.759.4800, c.516.233.0567

North Hills, NY – The Ritz-Carlton Residences

Sands Point, NY

Penthouse in the 17-acre gated Ritz-Carlton Residences, Long Island, North Hills. 24-hour security, a Clubhouse, indoor/outdoor saltwater pools, indoor parking, transportation to LIRR and 24-hour concierge service.

The 2-bedroom condominium features 12 ft. ceilings and outdoor balcony.

Smart technology. (HOA app/dues req.) SD #7. MLS# 3119187. $2,895,000.

Gail Holman, 516.486.6100, c.917.239.3508 Rene Aversa, 516.486.6100, c.516.241.4854

Authentically rebuilt and expanded, this sprawling Ranch is an exquisite home, sun-filled with beautiful open, soaring spaces that showcase the Mosaics, wood tile and custom moldings of this unique dwelling. All new systems heating, electrical and plumbing. Set on over 1-acre of spectacular property with in-ground pool. SD #4. MLS# 3107281. $2,485,000.

Donna Weissberg, 516.883.2900 ext.191, c.516.578.1914

Each office is independently owned and operated. We are pledged to provide equal opportunity for housing to any prospective customer or client, without regard to race, color, religion, sex, handicap, familial status or national origin.

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susan.vanpelt@sothebyshomes.com 561.379.4759 | susanvanpelt.com

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110

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CONTENTS

108

The Jewelry I ssue 98

ALL IN THE FAMILY

Sophie Krakoff, daughter of Tiffany & Co.’s current

chief artistic officer, sports the brand’s covetable pieces at the Fleur Room in Chelsea. produced by brooke kelly; phoTographed by JulIe skarraTT

102

VHERNIER’S VIBRANT HUES The Freccia collection—with pieces evoking abstract flowers—is among the brand’s most emblematic and colorful collections.

104

BRIDAL BEAUTY BY WEMPE The 140-year-old company recently launched a new bridal collection featuring an array of stunningly cut diamond rings.

106

MONICA VINADER’S INSPIRED DESIGNS

The company’s founder tells about her

company’s origins and current inspirations.

108 110

FABIO ANGRI’S CONTEMPORARY CREATIONS Whatever your spirit animal, you’ll find it rendered in pavé stones and gold in the Lusso by Fabio Angri line.

CHARLES JAMES: AHEAD OF HIS TIME

of America’s greatest fashion designer.

by

A new book looks at the later years kaThryn MaIer

114

THE BIRTH OF ROLEX Assouline’s recent tome celebrates 87 distinctive models of the most collected watch label in the world. by brooke kelly

118

JAR’S SECRET GEMS We look back at elusive designer Jay Anthony Rosenthal (JAR), who designs some of the world’s most coveted gems. by Mary godfrey

122

ON THE ROCKS sTyled by

126

From our archives, the appeal of our favorite gems is set in stone. crIckeT burns; phoTographed by Jack deuTsch

FLIGHT OF FANCY The TWA Hotel soars open in Eero Saarinen’s gull-winged building that began life as the TWA Terminal at JFK. by kaThryn MaIer

114

136

88

CONTENTS c oluMns

74

32

SOCIAL DIARY

70

HARRY BENSON

72

TAKI

74

FRESH FINDS

78

CANTEENS

80

OPEN HOUSE

82

REAL ESTATE

88

THE ARTS

92

TRAVEL

96

SOCIAL CALENDAR

132

YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST

136

SNAPSHOT

It’s springtime in the city, with parties and more.

by

d avId paTrIck c oluMbIa

Tiffany’s design director emeritus, John Loring, and those famed blue boxes.

Our columnist reminisces about days gone by in the City of Lights. by TakI Theodoracopulos Everything’s coming up roses in May.

by

kaThryn MaIer

and

Il Mulino New York is expanding its Italian-food empire.

by

elIzabeTh MeIgher b rooke k elly

The Centrale, Midtown’s newest condo building, soars 800 feet into the skyline.

We touch base with our brokers for insights into today’s markets. by brooke kelly

The Museum of Arts and Design celebrates punk’s graphic design.

by

k aThryn M aIer

The Barton & Gray Mariners Club brings yachting to the modern sharing economy.

Our favorite warm-weather events in New York, Greenwich, and Charleston.

On the party scene, from New York to Palm Springs.

An Upper East Side shop keeps the city all buttoned up.

by

by

brooke kelly

r ebecca M orse

Fabio Angri Valenza Italy

questmag.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA C R E AT I V E D I R EC TO R

JAMES STOFFEL DEPUT Y EDITOR

ELIZABETH MEIGHER SENIOR EDITOR

KATHRYN MAIER GRAPHIC DESIGNER/ PRODUCTION MANAGER

TYKISCHA JACOBS A S S O C I AT E E D I TO R

BROOKE KELLY CHIEF TECHNOLOGY OFFICER

ROBERT BENDER P H OTO G R A P H E R - AT - L A R G E

JULIE SKARRATT SOCIET Y EDITOR

HILARY GEARY INTERN

SHARAE HAMILTON CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

HARRY BENSON KATE GUBELMANN ALEX HITZ BILL HUSTED JAMES MACGUIRE CHUCK PFEIFER LIZ SMITH (R.I.P.) TAKI THEODORACOPULOS MICHAEL THOMAS CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

HARRY BENSON CAPEHART PHOTOGRAPHY BILLY FARRELL MARY HILLIARD CRISTINA MACAYA CUTTY MCGILL PATRICK MCMULLAN ANNIE WATT

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WEST CORNWALL, CT questmag.com PUBLISHER AND C.E.O.

S. CHRISTOPHER MEIGHER III A SSI STANT TO THE C.E.O.

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ext .

106

Quintessential Country Estate. 7 Bedroom Greek Revival Farmhouse.

Guesthouse. Entertainment Barn. Antique Barn. Pool. Pool House.

61± Acres. $3.695.000. Mike Conlogue. 860.435.6789.

Private 4,800sf Barn-style Home. 3 Bedrooms. 3 Fireplaces. Pool.

Stone Terrace. 2-car Detached Barn/Garage with Gym. Views.

7.01± Acres. $3.200.000. Peter Klemm. 860.868.7313.

SOUTHBURY, CT

WASHINGTON, CT

Lake Lillinonah Direct Waterfront. 6 Bedrooms. 3 Fireplaces. Screened Porch. In-law Apartment. Pool & Spa. Terrace. Tennis. Views.

Dock. 4.06± Acres. $2.500.000. Peter Klemm. 860.868.7313.

Wonderful Country Colonial. 5 Bedrooms. 3 Fireplaces.

Pool. Patio. Tennis. 2 Separate Garages. 20.37± Acres. $2.350.000. Carolyn Klemm. 860.868.7313.

PA L M B E AC H & M I A M I

LINDA LANE SOPER 612.308.4159 CHICAGO

TIMOTHY DERR 847.615.1921 HONG KONG

BINA GUPTA 852.2868.1555 MILAN

#1 for Selling & Renting Fine Country Properties!

EMILIO ZERBONI 011.39.031.267.797

KLEMM REAL ESTATE LITCHFIELD COUNTY’S PREMIER BROKERS

BOARD OF ADVISORS

EDWARD LEE CAVE CRIS CONDON

Lakeville/Salisbury 860.435.6789 > Litchfield 860.567.5060 > Roxbury 860.354.3263 Sharon 860.364.5993 > Washington Depot 860.868.7313 > Woodbury 203.263.4040 Source: SmartMLS and Klemm Private Sales 1/1/93– 4/11/19

JED H. GARFIELD ELIZABETH STRIBLING-KIVLAN KATHY KORTE PAMELA LIEBMAN HOWARD LORBER ANDREW SAUNDERS ELIZABETH STRIBLING WILLIAM LIE ZECKENDORF © QUEST MEDIA, LLC 2019.

All rights reserved. Vol. 33, No. 5.

Quest—New York From The Inside is published monthly, 12 times a year.

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PUBLISHER’S LETTER

Clockwise from left: Carlo Traglio, president of Vhernier; driven pheasant shooting in the Dominican mountains at Casa de Campo, led by the renowned gun of J. Pepe Fanjul; “Too Fast to Live, Too Young to Die: Punk Graphics, 1976-1986” at the Museum of Arts and Design; the TWA Terminal at Idlewild, 1962; Quest’s “grateful publisher” with Taki, Quest’s celebrated and best-read columnist.

30 QUEST

Nostalgia finds its voice again in this issue with a strong visual look at the opening of Eero Saarinen’s glamorous gullwinged masterpiece, the TWA Hotel (and former terminal) at JFK. With yet another nod to the past, we peer into the galleries of MAD (the Museum of Arts and Design), where its courageous curator Chris Coates has unleashed an exhibit on punk art that will be on display until August 18. Both of these “looking back to lean forward” features have been adroitly pieced together by Quest’s senior editor, Kathryn Maier.

There’s even more within these pages, but I’ll let you, dear Quest readers, ferret out the journo-gems that further enhance this Jewelry Issue. And don’t forget to share your thoughts and critiques, via email (scmiii@aol.com) or phone (646.840.3402), where Quest’s operators are always standing by. u

Chris Meigher ON THE COVER: Sophie Krakoff wearing an ADEAM gown and jewelry by Tiffany & Co. at Tao Group’s Fleur Room in Chelsea. Part of “All in the Family,” produced

by Brooke Kelly, photographed by Julie Skarratt (page 98).

CO U RTE S Y O F V H E R N I E R / TE R RY A LLE N / J E N N A B A S CO M / B A LT H A Z A R KO R A B / M A RY H I LL I A R D

I AM DRAFTING this month’s Publisher’s Letter from my spacious room overlooking the natural coral beaches of Casa de Campo in the ever-more-popular Dominican Republic, or “DR” for the sophisticated set. Casa de Campo has emerged as a genuine sportsman’s (and sportswoman’s!) paradise, with four challenging Pete Dye golf courses, a Wimbledon-worthy tennis center, an international shooting facility that boasts both clay targets and live driven pheasant, plus a seaport modeled after a Mediterranean village from which any guest can conveniently set out to fish for an abundance of trophy Blue Marlin (with a case of their prized local beer, Presidente, in the chiller). Who ever said that April was a cruel month?

But onward we bound into May, and Quest’s 21st annual Jewelry Issue. It’s been said that magazines—at least the remaining good ones—are like a club in print, bringing knowledgeable and like-minded readers together to experience and enjoy their passions. For women, there are few greater passions than their emotional bond to baubles. In this issue, we highlight the fine new lines of the reimagined Tiffany & Co., and we also salute the increasing assemblage of learned independent jewelers including JAR, Fabio Angri, Monica Vinader, and Vhernier, the latter led by my nautical and brilliantly creative friend Carlo Traglio, with whom I hope to set sail this summer in Newport. It’s a new breed of clever stone-setters who have brought forth more personal jewelry designs for a generation of ladies who can—and do!—purchase for themselves, with or without the support of their partners.

And while you further thumb through this issue, don’t miss the nostalgic prose of another accomplished sailor, Taki, Quest’s most celebrated and best-read columnist. Taki waxes eloquently on the Paris of his younger days, when the City of Lights radiated a natural excitement—fueled by unfiltered beauty and innocence, the sporting life of amateurs and their endless nights of genteel revelry.

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A

David Patrick Columbia

NEW YORK SOCIAL DIARY THE FIRST QUARTER of the year on every social calendar in New York is the quietest. That’s a bit of an exaggeration, because the metropolis—with its millions of citizens—is never really quiet. But then April comes along, and besides the change in the weather,

the buds on the trees and in the gardens, it warms up a bit and everything comes to life. Suddenly, the people are out and about again, and the city seems new.

For example, on a beautiful Wednesday, with bright sunshine and temps in the low 60s, I went down

to Michael’s to lunch with a friend. I hadn’t been to Michael’s in a couple of weeks (rare for me). I also usually travel there back and forth via the Q subway and arrive on the Seventh Avenue side of town.

But on this day, after leaving the restaurant,

instead of heading back to the Q station on 55th and Seventh Avenue, I walked over to Bergdorf Goodman to pick up something for a friend. I was reminded that I hadn’t been in that part of midtown during the day in quite some time, because there’s so much “change”

B OYS ’ C L U B O F N E W YO R K ’ S A N N UA L L U N C H EO N AT 5 8 3 PA R K AV E N U E

Kathy Thomas, Jennifer Oken and Burwell Schorr 32 QUEST

Howard Schultz and Diane Sawyer

Katie Leede, Ritchey Howe and Missy Kilroy

Claudia Overstrom, Carol Mack and Gabrielle Bacon

Cynthia Van Eck and Cindy Ketchum

Gigi Mortimer, Lisa McCarthy and Tabitha Simmons

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

Brooke Shields, Chiara Edmands and Marina Purcell

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going on. The blocks off the avenue have changed— with new retailers and other businesses.

La Vielle Russie, which has been in the 59th Street corner location for as long as I can remember—for more than a decade—is gone. I learned it had moved to a fourth-floor gallery a block south, at 745 Fifth Avenue, where Verdura is located. La Vielle Russie, which was founded more that 150 years ago in Kiev, is a legendary antiques gallery. Even Carl Faberge himself was a client. Many of its patrons and resources are the stuff of fame and 34 QUEST

Vlada Roslyakova

Ellen Ward Scarborough and Chuck Scarborough

Kara Greenwood and Kate Driscoll

legends. Specializing in European and American antique jewelry, it also deals in Imperial Russian works of art, 18th century European gold snuff boxes, and objets d’art.

The Apple Store on the avenue across from The Plaza hotel is still undergoing renovations, and next to it on the same plaza is an enormous white tent. I have no idea what’s inside. It’s all surprising and yet not surprising, because New York is like this now: construction everywhere.

The avenue, of course, was jammed with a barely moving gridlock, thanks to

fewer traffic lanes because of the construction. That’s true all over town these days, too—lanes inoperative because of construction (mainly of tall high-rent apartment buildings for future millionaires and billionaires—who else could afford them?), or because lanes on the roads have been eliminated by the geniuses who changed the traffic in Manhattan, an encumbrance for the inhabitants, to put it very mildly.

When I arrived back to my block on the Upper East Side, the two girls schools— Brearley and Chapin—were

Mariah Strongin and Ellen von Unwerth

letting out, and three of the blocks had been emptied of parked cars for some filming about to occur in the mid-evening.

That night was the second filmmaking venture in the nabe that week. On Monday and Tuesday, the promenade along the East River and Carl Schurz Park was also a location for a film that Nicole Kidman is executively producing and starring in for HBO. This night’s filming was going on right under my building’s canopy. They were shooting a scene with the beautiful Issa Rae, the amazing writer/director/

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A producer/star of the famous HBO series. Since it’s Ms. Rae, who at 34 is enormously successful as a creative entity in the film business, it’s got to be an important venture.

House stories.

On another weekday morning, Kathy Prounis, a member of the board of trustees of the Kips Bay Boys & Girls Club, called and asked if I’d like to visit the location of the club’s upcoming annual Decorator Showhouse (“and bring your camera!”).

I was making my coffee at that moment she called, and the thought of going out to visit a future Decorator Showhouse was not on my

list of interesting things to pursue that morning.

However, Kathy told me that the night before, she had been doing some research on this year’s Showhouse and she found a Diary I’d written about my late friend Dorothy Hirshon, who had purchased it in the early 1940s when she was married to William Paley, one of the founders of CBS. She had bought the house because it was large with great rooms for entertaining, as well as rooms for their two children, a son and a daughter.

I knew it had once belonged to Dorothy,

although I knew it only from the exterior. It is a doublewide 12,000-square-foot brick Georgian-style mansion measuring 40 feet across, built in 1920 by Richard Whitney. It sits mid-block, at 36 East 74th Street between Park and Madison Avenues. It is six stories, with 10 fireplaces, plus a pool in the basement.

Its original owner, Mr. Whitney, was a prominent banker with J.P. Morgan, and later became the head of the New York Stock Exchange, a post he held when the market crashed in 1929.

Kathy Prounis, who has been involved as a patron

of the Showhouse for more than five years, wanted to know if I’d like to see the place, which was in the process of being torn up (literally) to ready it for the Showhouse. More than 20 interior designers were slated to contribute and design separate rooms for the Showhouse, which opened on May 1st.

My natural curiosity aroused, with the little I knew about its history, I accepted Kathy’s offer. I hadn’t known the history of the house or who built it.

Nor had I ever been inside.

It was many years later, in the early 1990s, when I first met Dorothy, having

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been introduced by John Richardson. She was living in Glen Cove in a beautiful California-style house that she built when she was 80.

Dorothy was a woman of great style. She was an initial member of the original Best Dressed List that Eleanor Lambert started during World War II, when France was occupied by the Nazis.

It was she who initiated the Paley art collection, which she also kept in the divorce and later left to MoMA. Her great interest in, and knowledge about, fine art began as a very young woman, when she was married to her first 38 QUEST

Maura Scalise, Liz Moley and RoAnn Costin

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husband, Jack Hearst, whose father, William R., was fond of his beautiful young daughter-in-law, and often took her with him when he visited Duveen’s gallery on 56th and Fifth.

She was also an activist, although the word wasn’t applied to a woman in those days. It was she who, along with a black reverend from a church in Harlem, canvassed all the New York hospitals where medical staffs were then segregated, to get them to integrate.

They finally succeeded with one hospital, and from there eventually all hospitals were integrated,

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which today is ordinary. As it should be.

She had her hand in many philanthropies and was also on the board of and an early supporter of the New School and Phoenix House. Hers was a powerful personality who rescued animals—she had seven cats and four dogs living with her at the time of her death)—often from highways between Long Island and Manhattan, and she “knew everybody,” including all the presidents from Franklin Roosevelt to Bill Clinton.

Having the opportunity to see that house’s interior,

just to be reminded of this remarkable personality who filled her world with interest, I couldn’t turn it down. I had passed it maybe hundreds of times over the years. And always in my head, to my eye, I was looking at a residence once occupied by someone whom I had come to know well, to know her history, and to know her way of lifestyle well.

On arrival, once inside, we walked into a house that was in extensive renovation, all dust, and walls and floors of empty rooms with no sign of any human residence, with a score of

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A carpenters, painters, and electricians preparing for the arrival of the interior designers who are making their mark. It had been owned for the previous 18 years by a Chinese dealer in fine porcelains. He had sold it and moved back to Hong Kong.

What impressed me most was the light. Many townhouses tend to be devoid of much natural light, in a city of tall facades blocking the direct sun.

This house had big rooms, high ceilings in the public rooms with tall windows, and a large garden space in the back, along with a magnificent circular

staircase that reached up to the fifth floor (there was an elevator too). Multiple bathrooms, a kitchen area, bedrooms for staff. Grand, and lots of natural light.

At the time of Dorothy’s purchase, her marriage to Paley was already in jeopardy. I don’t know if she were aware of it at the time, but soon after, she learned that he had been having an affair (one of many) to Barbara (Babe) Cushing Mortimer.

In 1947, Mr. Paley, through an associate, informed Dorothy that he wanted a divorce. He also wanted the property on Long Island, although he

was willing to sell the 74th Street house back to her.

She bought it from him for $150,000 (a lot of money in those days), giving him a $25,000 profit on the original purchase. By then, the mansion was far too impractical and expensive for the needs of a single woman and her children, so she sold it, moving up to Riverdale.

She had selected a house that must have impressed her husband who, with his ego, was naturally attracted to the grand. Although Mr. Paley also did not like having children, even his own, around the house.

On the property on Long

Island, the children were banished to a separate house, watched over by staff.

From all reports, and I was aware of a lot of them (biographies fill you in), although Dorothy was a strong and steady woman psychologically, when Paley left, he divorced her quickly because his next wife-tobe was already expecting, and the house no longer could serve the purpose of pleasing him, his needs, and his ego.

That was her weakness, to be sure—he was the man who got away. This great house, like much of the great art she led him to, no

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longer fit the bill. A grand memory, still standing, and now a history pretty much forgotten by time, the Kips Bay Showhouse marked its revival of a great house for some owners and family.

All of that was my imagination working, of course.

The Kips Bay Showhouse took temporary occupancy of the mansion as of May 1st.

Twenty interior designers turned it into a spacious, contemporary abode because of the combination of multiple spaces, from the serving pantry above the grand dining room, to the variety of bedrooms, from 42 QUEST

David Ludwigson, Blake Johnson, Diane Johnson and Jeffrey Banks

Barbara Rosenfelt and Ann Kempner

Alethea Hannemann

small to spacious (but not ridiculously) and even cozy.

With all those fireplaces.

More on the Upper East Side. After my looksee of the big house on East 74th Street, I learned more from a couple of women I know who lived, or live, on the same block.

Author and columnist Julie Baumgold had grown up across the street from that house at number 36, in another large townhouse (there aren’t any small ones on these Upper East blocks from Park Avenue to Fifth). And Priscilla Ullman, the interior designer and lifelong New

Yorker, has been living on this particular block for a number of years.

It’s always interesting to hear about neighborhoods anywhere. It lends a sense of continuity and even calm (despite the storms) to our world. Julie, for example, recalled how, as a kid, she used to roller skate on the sidewalks. That was a popular activity for those of us who grew up in the mid-20th century. I did the same on my street up in Massachusetts.

Julie, however, used to roller skate around the neighborhood with her friend Jill Clayburgh, who

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lived two blocks north. That kind of connection is what separates New York from any small town, of course.

Julie grew up to become a columnist and author, and Ms. Clayburgh…well, you get the picture.

Even in New York, people know, or knew, about their neighbors. There are several reasons, but the basic one is we see each other frequently—often every day—walking, or arriving at or leaving our domiciles.

The relationships between us rarely go beyond familiar sightings, but all of it creates a sense of place.

Nevertheless, all of these

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neighborhoods are now in transition.

To what, remains to be seen. Madison Avenue as one has seen or sees, one of the prime shopping destinations in the world, is growing wan as a result of the many empty storefronts.

On the evening of another beautiful early spring day in New York with temperatures reaching up to the low 60s, I was the guest of Sharon and John Loeb for a performance of The Lehman Trilogy at the Park Avenue Armory. A huge hit on the London stage, it had a brief and sold-out engagement that ended on April 20th, when the cast returned to London to continue its engagement there.

The play has been gathering rave reviews by word-of-mouth for months.

The original five-hour version, performed in Rome, was written by

Dave Price

the Italian playwright and author Stefano Massini. It had been adapted for the English version by Ben Power, the playwright and film writer who is also deputy artistic director of the National Theatre. It was directed by Sam Mendes, who also directs The Ferryman, which is now playing on Broadway.

The play, now three hours in three acts—with two short intermissions— was first performed in London starring Simon Beale, Adam Godley, and Ben Miles, who also made up the cast in New York. The three actors play several parts seamlessly and brilliantly, with nary a costume change. Witty, and funny, and serious, the performances are riveting and awesome. The actual script, I learned when I met the actors after the show,

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A is 270 pages! Astounding!

It opened at the Park Avenue Armory on March 22nd. I’d been hearing about it from Americans who’d seen it over in London where it is a big hit. It has the makings of biographical piece on the famous financial family who started Lehman Brothers on Wall Street in the last quarter of the 19th century. My host at the performance, John Loeb, is a Lehman grandson.

The family’s involvement in the firm ended in the 1970s, although the name disappeared in the 2008 stock market crash.

I was anxious to see it

only because I was curious how a story about a financial family could be so powerful to a general audience. In reality, the Lehmans, who immigrated to this country in the 1840s and were a powerful presence on Wall Street for almost a century, are an allegorical instrument depicting the American experience over four generations—from hard-working immigrant to highly successful financial power.

I’m not drawn to threehour plays, but on this night, with my feelings about time and length very much on my mind, I never lost interest for so much

as one second! It is the story of America and its developing culture from the early 19th century until today. It is about the world we came to, and the world we live in now.

John Loeb’s maternal grandfather was a Lehman (Arthur, son of Mayer— pronounced My-er—was one of the three characters in the play). When John and I occasionally lunch, the conversation is always about the family—his and mine, quite different in many ways but ultimately the same: American.

In the Trilogy, you watch a family move through time (history) and see

its roots change in each generation, transforming in the changing culture. We are who we are, of course, but we are all whence we came, biologically and therefore even personally.

You can always find traces of previous generations of an individual in that individual. This is how miraculous we are.

John and I share that interest, and his relationship to his family and families with similar backgrounds who became prominent members of the community, as well as Jewish. Stephen Birmingham published a best-selling book titled Our Crowd about these families

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00 QUEST

back in 1967. They were regarded historically as “the great Jewish families” in New York.

The “great” came from the fortunes the men in these families created, and what they did with it, and how they behaved in terms of what was expected of them. John Loeb, for example, now in his eighth decade, is still deeply under the influence—at least intellectually—of those men and women (ancestors) who came before, and how they affected the way he was brought up in this world.

Rules of behavior. As a boy, I was brought up in a small New England town where the “families” were White Anglo Saxon Protestants. The leading families—in the beginning—required codes of behavior that deeply affected not only the family members of those

“leading...” but also the communities they lived in. This phenomenon was true in all societies worldwide. We identify them with names. WASPs, Jews, royals, etc. In many of them, an identifiable code of behavior remains valid. In our society, it is no longer.

However, The Lehman Trilogy is the American story. It begins in the mid19th century when the first Lehman came over from Bavaria. They were a family of eight children from a small village in Bavaria. In those days, because they were Jewish, only the eldest male was allowed by law to stay in the hometown. The other males had to go elsewhere. Henry, whose real name was Hyam, was the first to leave.

He acquired his name on Ellis Island, when the inspector never heard of such a name as Hyam, and called him

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A Henry.

He went to Alabama, where he opened a small shop, and through a series of natural incidents, learned about the cotton business, which in the 1840s was booming. Two of his brothers—Emanuel and Mayer—followed. America, the land that we actually TOOK, without thought of property or humanity, from the huge population of Native Americans beginning with Columbus’ voyages at the end of the 15th century.

The Lehman Trilogy is about that energy/human imagination that prospered and built what you and I

grew up in—a great country for many (if not all) people.

You see in all this, the story of us, America.

Another neighborhood, another story. On April 20, it was a mainly sunny weekend here in New York with the temperatures (in the sun) hitting the high 60s. Jayne Wrightsman died on that Friday at her home at 820 Fifth Avenue. The media referred to her as a socialite, philanthropist, and collector of art and 18th century antiques, along with her late husband Charles Wrightsman.

I never met her, although I often heard about her. I saw her very occasionally at

public events. By then she was a woman in her mid70s, always smartly dressed with a certain restraint. She was a small woman, very slender, chic, and with a presence that was modest in bearing. In other words, if she were “modest” or not, you might not notice her in the crowd because of her diminutive size, and that “presence.”

The obituaries about her focus on her enormous collections, which she and Mr. Wrightsman donated to the Metropolitan Museum.

Entire rooms of 18th century French furniture, including many pieces that belonged to kings Louis

XV and his grandson Louis XVI, as well as Louis XVI’s wife Marie Antoinette. But the real story was one of shrewd and disciplined self-creation as the figure that will be remembered, and even in art history.

I’d first heard about her, along with the rest of the world, back in the early 1960s, when she and her husband, whose fortune came from oil, were hosts to President John F. Kennedy and his wife Jackie at their house in Palm Beach.

The Wrightsman Palm Beach villa was said to have previously belonged to Mona (Mrs. Harrison) Williams, who after her

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A husband died, became the Countess Bismarck.

It was said by those who knew Mrs. Wrightsman, and by those in the interior design business who also saw her residences, that she had great natural taste, accented by treasures that were made for palaces. In other words, despite the abundance of gilt, it was never reduced to gaudy or c’est trop.

Although she was written about many times in magazines and newspapers, her private life was regarded as sophisticated, cultured, chic, and the last word in elegance. There were often rumors attributed to her

husband’s harsh and cold arrogance toward her and others privately. You could get the feeling from them that she put up with a lot from the guy to get to where she was. Nevertheless, she was a prime example for the socially ambitious of her time. It was said that there were women here in New York over whom she exerted great influence as a connoisseur, teacher, and advisor.

Charles Wrightsman’s father, who was born in the last half of the 19th century, had made a huge fortune in the Oklahoma oil fields at the beginning of the 20th century. He was the man

credited for thinking up the “oil depletion allowance” for which he is gratefully (wrong word but right idea) remembered to this day by any and all in the mineral deposit and timber business. The tax law allows the owners of such to regard it as a “wasting asset,” allowing the wasted part to be reasonably depreciated against income.

He left his son Charles a hugely rich man, who was head of the Standard Oil Kansas company.

Mrs. Wrightsman was born Jane Kirkman in Michigan, and moved with her mother to Los Angeles when she was in her youth.

Despite its world fame as the center of the movie industry, L.A. was still very much a small town of neighborhoods and areas where people “knew” everybody. When I lived out there, six decades later, in the ’70s, ’80s, and ’90s, it had become a metropolis, and the Wrightsmans were a topic of conversation among wealthy people in the upper echelons of the film community.

There were many who still knew her when she first met Mr. Wrightsman in the early 1940s. It was often remarked that she met her husband (who was 24 years her senior) when

N E W YO R K B OTA N I C A L G A R D E N ’ S A N N UA L A N T I Q U E S FA I R

Stephen Orr 52 QUEST

Dealers at the Antiques Fair

Sigourney Weaver and Jim Simpson

Mel Brasier, Garrett Magee and James DeSantis

Carrie Rebora Barratt

B FA

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A MUSEUM OF ARTS AND DESIGN PRESENTS LOOT: MAD ABOUT JEWELRY

Josie Natori

working behind the gloves counter in the Broadway department store on Wilshire Boulevard. (The New York Times reported that they met at a dinner party of some mogul in the movie industry, which is possible, of course.)

Although the point of those who knew her was that she came from a modest, working class background.

Her mother owned, or ran, a local bar, and lived on Horn Avenue just above Sunset on the Strip. Mother Kirkman was remembered as an older, well-known figure in the neighborhood, often recalled as “walking 54 QUEST

Fiona Ragheb, Chris Scoates and Sant Khalsa

Laura Tanne, Jane Preiser, Adria Rousch, Alissandra Aronow and Adria De Haume

around the neighborhood in her ‘bunny’ slippers and announcing from time to time, ‘I am the mother of the Mrs. Wrightsman.’”

It sounds like a colorful embellishment of a simple fact (“Mother,” “Wrightsman”), and did come out of the land of the movies. Nevertheless, it established that the international socialite was once just one of the girls next door until she met Mr. Moneybags.

Obviously things changed for both wife and husband. Obviously they shared certain common interests. One of them

undoubtedly had a certain “status” among the socially (and financially) select.

Their developed and deep interest in the 18th century French art and lifestyle among the aristos and the royals expanded into collecting furniture and objet.

After the French Revolution and throughout the 19th century, the works of the designers, craftsmen, and artisans whose clients were the Bourbon royals were considered a blotch on France’s glorious history, left by the deposed King and Queen and their princely subjects, and went

Barbara Tober

Michele Cohen

out of style. It wasn’t until the beginning of the 20th century when Elsie de Wolfe, a tastemaker of her time, later Lady Mendl, and Consuelo Vanderbilt, whose mother had famously married her off to the 9th Duke of Marlborough, began popularizing it by collecting it for their own use.

By mid-20th century, when the new couple (he’d been married once before) began developing their interest as collectors, 18th Century French furniture and objet had become de rigueur in the private residences of what was

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A then called Society. The difference between those who were furnishing their drawing rooms with what was “proper,” and Jayne and Charles Wrightsman, was that the Wrightsmans were buying real history and making history socially with it.

Coincidentally or not, Charlene Wrightsman, a Wrightsman daughter from his first marriage, was married to Igor Cassini, who was then the most important and influential social columnist in New York, writing under the nom de plume Cholly Knickerbocker for the Hearst newspapers.

Charlene was first married to a well-known movie actor named Helmut Dantine, later married Igor (GhiGhi) Cassini, brother of fashion designer Oleg Cassini. Our late beloved Liz Smith got her start writing the columns for Cassini as well as acting as a reporter covering the social nightlife for him.

Charlene and her husband were at the center of the social world in which her father and stepmother were establishing themselves.

One night in 1963, however, while watching television, Charlene, who was only seven years younger than her stepmother, overdosed

on more than two dozen sleeping pills and jumped from their apartment at 944 Fifth Avenue.

Aside from the obvious passion that Jayne and Charles Wrightsman shared for art, antiques, and interior design, and the great knowledge and expertise they achieved, it also was their ticket to society that by mid-century had completely loosened to what an earlier Cholly Knickerbocker, Maury Paul, called “Café Society.” Besides collecting and furnishing their domiciles with gilted fauteuil, etc., they began donating important pieces and paintings to the Met-

ropolitan Museum. And entertaining the crème de la crème with President Kennedy and his beautiful wife under their roof. It also led to being members of the board of directors of the museum.

Today the Wrightsman Collections at the Met are vast. It demonstrates how, unlike today, where people on the rise pursue status and acknowledgement via large cash donations, Jayne and Charles Wrightsman pursued it through style and connoisseurship, and left a lasting legacy to the world. The little girl from L.A. departed a legend in her lifetime. u

N E W YO R K P U B L I C L I B R A RY ’ S A N N UA L L U N C H EO N

Candice Bergen and Chloe Malle

Kathy Rayner and Kevin Young 56 QUEST

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Min Jin Lee and Caroline Kennedy

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Raul Fernandez, Jr. and David Costabile

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Jodie Freeman and Debbie Robbins

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Renata Weiss and Ellen Brown

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Mary Kate Donato and Meg Russell

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58 QUEST

Michelle and Howard Kessler

Bob and Paula Butler

Pepe Fanjul, Jr. and Lourdes Fanjul

Pepe and Emilia Fanjul

Joseph and Sharon Muscarelle

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A A S P C A ’ S A N N UA L B E R G H B A L L H O N O R I N G D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A AT T H E P L A Z A I N N E W YO R K

Paul Arnhold and Lili Buffett

Margo Langenberg and Christopher Mason

David Scott and Amy Lau

Alison Aston and Jessica Hart

David Patrick Columbia

Marco Carlacci and Sabrina Mesa

Arriana Boardman and Linda Lloyd Lambert

Danielle Moore and John Scarpa

Pat Cooper and Andrew Frazier

Eric Javits and Linda Olsson

Skip and Linda Aldridge

Bobbie Lindsay, Christine Aylward and Pat McLaughlin

Bob Wright and Mayor Gail Coniglio

60 QUEST

C A P E H A RT; G E T T Y I M A G E S

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A E M P O W E R S A F R I C A ’ S A N N UA L D I N N E R AT T H E E X P L O R E R S C L U B I N N E W YO R K

Dana and Eric Macy

Richard Dwiese 62 QUEST

Kim Charlton and Missy Hargraves

Nancy Rosenthal and Charles Runnette

Catherine Howell, Steven Greenfield and Patrica Glass

Greg Stout

Maria Lemos

Krista Krieger and Leonel Piraino

Carlos Drews, Sylvie Chantecaille and Alex Postman

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A W H I T N E Y MU S E U M O F A R T ’ S A N N UA L G A L A I N N E W YO R K

Michael Kors and Georgina Bloomberg

Dixon and Arriana Boardman

Mia Moretti and Stacey Bendet 64 QUEST

Victoria Thompson

Alexander Acquavella

Hilary Rhoda

Leah and Richard DeMartini

Diane Kruger and Karen Elson

Lorenza Giovanelli and Christo

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Jeff Hirsch and David Patrick Columbia

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H A R RY B E N S O N John Loring, design director emeritus of Tiffany & Co., holding the Tiffany classic blue box and wearing his own design, the classic Atlas collection watch.

IT SEEMS LIKE YESTERDAY THE FIRST TIME I PHOTOGRAPHED the creative genius John Loring, he was seated at his desk in his office at Tiffany & Co. with a sweeping view of The Plaza and Central Park in the background. The year was 1984. Our paths didn’t cross again until I photographed John in 1990 for an article in Architectural Digest about New Yorkers in their favorite places—John holding a giant mound of cheese in his favorite downtown gourmet market.

Twelve years later, my wife, Gigi, recognized John at a Palm Beach cocktail party and reminded me I had photographed him years earlier. Since then, John and I have collaborated on a book on Copenhagen’s Tivoli Gardens, and several of John’s 23 coffee table books for Tiffany have included my photographs.

In the photograph shown here, John holds the instantly recognizable Tiffany Blue Box, and is wearing his own classic Atlas watch. John told me he designed the Atlas watch while in a Zurich hotel room in 1980—there was no stationary in the room; therefore, he drew the design on a napkin.

Introduced by Tiffany in 1983, the watch became an instant classic, and John’s Roman numeral design now includes rings, bracelets, earrings, and necklaces.

Linda Buckley, the vice president of public relations at Tiffany for 20 years, and now the president of her own firm, recalls, “The first Tiffany watch I wore was the original Atlas in stainless steel that John Loring designed. The design was 70 QUEST

inspired by the clock tower in Zurich that John passed as he made his way to the train to the Basel Watch Fair each year.

The watch face featured raised Roman numerals and instantly became a classic icon of Tiffany style.

“Zurich was always a great trip to take with John. There was the obligatory stop at the favorite Kronenhalle restaurant, with their amazing collection of Impressionist paintings and bar designed by the Giacometti brothers. All trips with John were great fun, in addition to lots of work! We always started at a favorite haunt—the China Club in Hong Kong, Brasserie Lipp in Paris, the Chelsea Arts Club in London, or even escaping from the New York office for lunch at Doubles and no talk of work.

Revisiting John’s favorite restaurants was always a homecoming in each city. John and I explored many of the world’s great cities together, and it was always educational and entertaining.”

The elaborate 30th celebration in the New York flagship store when John moved from design director to design director emeritus after 30 productive years was filled with a glittering and eclectic group, including longtime friends Paloma Picasso, her mother Francoise Gilot, and Warhol superstar Ultra Violet.

John is still involved with Tiffany projects all over the world. With every project he tackles, John’s instinctive brilliance produces a little magic. I would venture to say he has become as iconic as the Atlas watch itself. u

TA K I

PARIS IN THE DAY

Left to right: Paris, the city of lovers; a photo of 16-year-old Brigitte Bardot at a debutante ball in Paris in 1950.

AH, SPRING! Who was it that said at springtime a young man’s fancy turns to love? When temperatures went on the rise some 60 years or so ago, the best place for the turning was Paris. Yes, Paris is eternal and all that, yes, Paris is the place where rich Americans go to die, yes, Paris is the city that Papa Hemingway said always has new lovers, but it also took Paris only 10 years to recover from 72 QUEST

the war and to reclaim the title of being the most cosmopolitan and glamorous city in the world. London was quirky and quaint, but one could go nuts waiting for a warm beer and places shut down at midnight. There were some hotels with showers, but the food was bad, and some very proper people with bad teeth wore funny black round hats called bowlers, although London did have its charms. New York

was already the capitalist centre of the universe, and the WASPs ruled the roost (before Hollywood and the Bronx took over), but however gritty, the city lacked a certain je ne sais quoi when compared to the City of Light. Rome was a contender, perhaps too beautiful to be real, but the place was more of a postcard than a city.

Ah, Paris. Once the snows had melted, the international set made its way

TA K I

Left to right: Marie-Hélène de Rothschild with Salvador Dalí and Yul Brynner in Paris, 1973; a vintage shot of the entrance of Ferrières, where the Rothschilds

AP IMAGES

frequently hosted lavish balls; Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton.

northwest to the best hotels, places like the Plaza Athénée, the Ritz, and the Bristol, or to their hôtel particuliere—as townhouses are known in France—on the chic left bank or around the Arc de Triomphe.

The reason Paris was so glamorous back then was that rich and cultured South Americans, upper-class Egyptians, Greeks from distinguished backgrounds, and, of course, cultured Americans viewed the French capital as their second home, with a romantic appreciation of its arts and history. I remember certain evenings at chez Maxim’s, or lunches at the Relais Plaza, when French nationals were in the minority.

How did a young man break into French society back then? Easy. The equivalent of the debutante ball was called a “Rallie” in France, and every society beauty—and some not so comely—presented themselves and met young men of their background about five times in spring. Young women called de Montesquieu, de Caraman, von Schoenburg, Lubermisky, Troubetzkoy, Beghin, des Royes, and others of their ilk met young men called de Ganay, d’Ornano, de Segur, d’ Arcangues, and so on.

And Taki. It was as simple as pie.

But what really made springtime in Paris unforgettable back then were the balls given by various socialites. These

private affairs started the social season. There was nothing like being young, dressed to the nines, and arriving to a glittering ball with endless possibilities as far as romance was concerned.

A few come to mind. The very first one I attended, given by Countess de Rochambeau, born Sheila McIntosh back in the good old U.S. of A., was in her château just outside Paris. Her hubby was a descendant of one of France’s war heroes in the American War of Independence, along with Lafayette. The moolah was Yankee. The countess is still with us, just. Her ball was tops. Then there were the Rothschild balls at Ferrières, their château near Paris, and the famous Rede ball in Paris itself. (It was the first ball to include a Hollywood celebrity, Liz Taylor, who brought along a little-known Richard Burton). The Agnelli ball was at the Bois de Boulogne, and I remember seeing a solitary flick—cop in French—drinking a rather expensive wine outside the enormous tent. (Today there would be a revolution if a private affair were held in the Bois).

Springtime in Paris was also the start of the polo season, with horny Argentines arriving eager to sell their ponies to overweight Frenchmen and bed their wives. Which they did regularly. Most

upper-class Frenchmen had mistresses, and their wives had lovers, but absolute discretion was practiced in public. My mentor, the famous playboy and seducer Porfirio Rubirosa, had me stay in his house, a 15-minute drive from the center of the capital. In the morning we’d box in his private gym, then in a 10-minute drive we’d be at the Bagatelle polo club, in the middle of the Bois de Boulogne, work the ponies, then shower and go for lunch at the Relais Plaza. No other city had polo right in the middle of its main park, and in no other city did all the pretty young girls appear every Wednesday, Saturday, and Sunday to watch the matches.

Looking back it was paradise, and then it was time for the French tennis championships, again right in the middle of the city, at Place d’Auteuil. Polo, tennis, private balls—there will never again be a time like it. Now we have sponsored events with rap celebrities-cum-murderers as stars. Think of it and weep. u For more Taki, visit takimag.com.

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Fresh Finds

BY K AT H R Y N M A I E R A N D E L I Z A B E T H M E I G H E R

THE FAMED FLOWERS of May, following April’s notorious

showers, have nothing on these flirty styles and colorful stones. This month, everything’s coming up roses... and sunflowers, and ranunculus, and everything under the sun.

Take a cue from nature and brighten your days with these fun hues and alluring textures.

Michael Kors Collection Flamingo/Persimmon Sunflower Poplin Puff-Sleeve Ruffle Dress ($1,875), Lemon/

Vhernier’s Pop chain in

Lime Daisy Crepe de Chine Belt

18-kt. rose gold and coral.

($295), Natural/Black Raffia

$9,950 at Vhernier New

Sedona Messenger with Fish

York: 783 Madison Ave.

Embroidery ($950), Watermelon/Black LeopardCalf Hair Elsie Flatform Sandal ($750). Visit michaelkors. com for retailers.

Ralph Lauren Collection Alligator Mini RL50 Handbag. $14,000.

888 Madison Ave. and ralphlauren.com.

This Teva x Anna Sui collab debuted at the designer’s Fashion Week show. $150 at teva.com and annasui.com.

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Maxfield Parrish’s “Christmas Life” (1922). On view at Doyle May 11-13, part

You’ll be well suited for any occasion in a P. Johnson made-to-measure suit, shown with shirt ($149) and driving shoes ($295). P. Johnson: 145 Spring St., 2nd Floor, or pjt.com.

of Impressionist & Modern Art auction May 14.

Est. $150,000250,000. Doyle: 175 East 87th Street, doyle.com.

Bacardi’s Gran Reserva Diez has been expertly blended and barrel-aged for at least 10 years under the Caribbean sun. bacardi.com.

Mia Fonssagrives Solow’s “T-Rex-I” left of the pair wood (7 x 8 1/2 x 2), available at Findlay Galleries. $5,400. Findlay Galleries: 165 Worth Ave., Palm Beach, 561.655.2090.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 40mm in 18-kt. yellow gold. $103,100.

Visit rolex.com for retailers.

Get the Midas touch with these Stubbs & Wootton Sisal Gold slippers. $525 at stubbsandwootton.com.

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Fresh Finds

Ring in 18-kt. rose gold with pink sapphires. $9,700. Lusso by Fabio Angri: 908.400.0969 or lussobyfabioangri.com.

Lilly Pulitzer releases its latest heritage print, Cheek to Cheek, in celebration of the brand’s 60th Anniversary. Jan Peplum Top and Roberto Coin Pois Moi Luna earrings

Skirt Set, $198 at lillypulitzer.com.

in 18-kt. yellow and white gold with diamonds. $3,500. us.robertocoin.com.

Monica Vinader’s Signature Thin Bangle ($395) and Fiji Bud Cuff ($225). monicavinader.com.

Get festive with Christofle’s Kawali Crystal Champagne Flute in Lime. $200 at christofle.com.

Lutz Morris Morrow Medium Shoulder Chain Bag in Croco Sky. $1,270 at The Conservatory at Hudson Yards or lutzmorris.com.

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Store your most precious jewels in

Circle pendant in 18-kt. white

this Grey Shagreen Jewelry

gold, pavé-set with various-

Box, handcrafted in France.

sized round-cutdiamonds. Made for

$2,350. Linda Horn: 1327 Madison

Betteridge: betteridge.com.

Ave. or lindahorn.com.

Carolina Herrera’s Wingtip Lapel Jacket ($2,590), Button Down ($1,390), and Straight Leg Pant ($1,290), all at Carolina Herrera New York Boutique, 850 Madison Ave., 212.249.6552.

Get your glow on with L’Objet’s Alchimie large Hurricane Lantern in platinum. $250. l-objet.com.

Patek Philippe’s 7118/1200A Ladies’ Automatic Nautilus in stainless-steel with silvery opaline dial. $34,020. Visit patek. com for retailers.

This traditional living room in Richmond, Virginia, designed by Leta Austin Foster, Malachite and tiger eye Rock rings with 14-kt. signature star, by Blair Hussain Jewelry. $800 each. blairhusain.com.

features a custom-made rug to complement the antique tole chandelier. For a similarly elegant look in your own home, visit letaaustinfoster.com.

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CANTEENS

IL MULINO NEW YORK EXPANDS ITS EMPIRE

MORE THAN 30 YEARS ago, Il Mulino New York opened its flagship restaurant in Greenwich Village. It remains a highly sought-after reservation for Manhattan dwellers today, impressing all who’ve had the opportunity to sample its authentic Abruzzese dishes.

In 2001, after the restaurant was purchased by its current owners, they began a rapid expansion, turning the iconic 78 QUEST

restaurant into an international brand, with multiple locations across the city as well as in vacation hotspots including Miami, Puerto Rico, and Las Vegas. Most recently in New York, Il Mulino opened two new Manhattan locations: Il Mulino Prime in Gramercy and Il Mulino Downtown in Tribeca (pictured above).

Meat-centric Il Mulino Prime offers, in addition to the tra-

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CANTEENS ditional Italian dishes found at all Il Mulino locations, a broad selection of steakhouse classics like a tomahawk steak or grassfed filet mignon. At Il Mulino Tribeca, you’ll find favorites from the flagship location’s menu—think veal shank roasted in a red wine and porcini sauce and served with parmesan risotto, or lobster sautéed in a spicy wine and garlic sauce—as well as a crudo bar offering Mediterranean fish dishes.

Not your grandfather’s red-sauce joint, these restaurants are decked out in contemporary chic, drawing a style-centeric crowd of 30- and 40-somethings. Both feature whitewashed brick walls in a similar tone as the snow-colored

from the original Greenwich Village location, but with an updated aesthetic. It’s the essence of old New York, but with the energetic vibes of the modern city.

Invigorated by the success of these recent openings, Il Mulino’s partners have no plans to slow the brand’s growth any time soon, and continue to seek out new cities into which to expand. The owners are also gearing up for a season in the Hamptons: Il Mulino New York in Wainscott, set on Georgica Pond with four separate dining rooms, just reopened for the months to come—welcome news for those who summer out east.

tablecloths. Il Mulino Prime’s Gramercy location romances diners with taupe banquettes, king-size mirrors, and poetic musings on canvas, while Il Mulino Tribeca sports more of a downtown edge with black-and-white photographs and rough-hewn wooden beams throughout the space. At either spot, you’re as likely to see groups celebrating birthdays as you are couples enjoying date night. Both carry the DNA

At this rate, it seems as though it eventually may come to pass that you might never find yourself in a part of the world without an Il Mulino nearby. How delicious life will be. ◆ For more information, visit ilmuilino.com. For reservations, call 212.777.5314 (Il Mulino Prime in Gramercy) or 646.649.5164 (Il Mulino New York in Tribeca).

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OPEN HOUSE

SOARING 800 FEET into Manhattan’s skyline, The Centrale— Midtown’s most highly anticipated new condominium building—is destined for icon status. The 71-story art deco-inspired tower, designed by Pelli Clarke Pelli, features intricate detailing from ground to crown. Its 124 residences, conceived of as a sanctuary in the heart of Midtown and decorated by the internationally revered Champalimaud, will be available for occupancy in late summer.

Alexandra Champalimaud took inspiration from her vast experience designing the world’s finest 5-star hotel interiors.

Included on that exclusive list are The Beverly Hills Hotel Bungalows, the Hotel Bel-Air, The Carlyle, The Waldorf Astoria New York and Chengdu, The Plaza, The Dorchester London, and the Fairmont San Francisco.

The Centrale’s one- to-five-bedroom homes, full-floor tower residences, and crowning duplex penthouse are glamorous and sleek, yet modern and warm. The homes feature sumptuous master baths and are layered with a neutral palette, curated pieces, and sublime materials, in addition to grand layouts framed by generous floor–to-ceiling windows with striking views of Manhattan. With attention paid to every detail, each residence combines the intimacy of a home with the personalized services offered at the most premier boutique properties.

Assuring privacy and exclusivity, residents will have a convenient and discreet arrival experience through a dramatic

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THE CENTRALE: MIDTOWN’S NEWEST ICON

porte-cochère spanning from 50th Street to 49th Street, granting direct access to the Champalimaud-designed lobby. An attended garage on-site allows residents to seamlessly return home with the utmost ease.

The Centrale’s world-class amenities were thoughtfully conceived to offer both indoor and outdoor refuge. The great room, club terrace, club lounge, private dining room, conference room, and sauna/steam and spa treatment rooms, 75-foot lap pool, and fitness center by The Wright Fit all provide ideal settings for a dynamic and full lifestyle. Outside, residents will enjoy the pet-friendly garden terrace and expansive club terrace, equipped with all-season coverage and a wet bar for a serene escape.

Ceruzzi Properties has elevated luxury living with The Centrale, offering the rare opportunity to own an exclusive home in the epicenter of New York. Designed as the ultimate New York residential experience, The Centrale is surrounded by the city’s finest businesses, shopping, dining, and cultural institutions. Replete with 5-star services and exquisite design, The Centrale is the most desirable property on the market today.

Exclusive sales and marketing is being handled by Douglas Elliman Development Marketing, with occupancy expected to begin in summer of 2019. One- to three-bedroom residences start at $1.825M, full-floor Tower Residences from $10.75M, and The Centrale Penthouse price available upon request. For more information, please visit thecentralenyc.com. u

This page, clockwise from top: A living/dining space at The Centrale; the penthouse residence’s kitchen; a bedroom in the penthouse; The Centrale’s 75-foot lap pool. Opposite page, counterclockwise from top: The Centrale’s entrance on 50th Street; a view of the building, looking south; seating on the Club Terrace.

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BLUE SKIES AHEAD IN NEW YORK AND PALM BEACH B Y B R O O K E K E L LY

FOR THIS MONTH’S real estate roundup, we touch base with top agents— Cristina Condon, Joanne Kao, Liza Pulitzer, Whitney McGurk, Dana Koch, Ashley Lickle O’Neil, and Ashley Copeland—who fill us in on the prospering markets of New York and Palm Beach. Here in the city, we recently observed a pied-à-terre tax proposal that could have a major impact on the local market. New York has also seen an abundance of “young single high-earners but not rich yet,” otherwise known as HENRYS, migrating downtown where new construction is characterized by top amenities and proximity to nightlife. As the season slows down in Palm Beach and we gear up for summer—which some full-time residents consider the best time of year—our agents expect to see serious buyers looking to settle in by winter.

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CRISTINA CONDON Sotheby’s International Realty / 561.301.2211 / cristina.condon@sothebyshomes.com

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Q: Tell me about spring and summer in Palm Beach. Will the rising temperature affect market activity?

A: This year we are expecting a very busy spring and summer, as our season kicked off late this year due to some volatility in the financial markets in December and January, combined with higher interest rates at that time. Those matters have settled down, and I am optimistic about late spring and early summer. I don’t believe summertime warmth will affect our market activity.

ly, as oftentimes the opening offer is not the final offer that is accepted. It takes perseverance and optimism, as do most things in life.

Q: Have there been any major new openings in the last couple months (in terms of shopping, dining, entertainment, etc.)?

A: LaunchPad—an event-focused rotating retail concept in the Esplanade—is driving continuous traffic to Worth Avenue, with new designers coming in on a weekly basis. The event focus is something that is broadly helping to drive retail. A stop by LaunchPad and the Esplanade usually assures that you will find something new you haven’t seen!

Q: Aside from new construction, what’s hot in the area right now?

A: The Raymond F. Kravis Center for the Performing Arts is currently under a major $50 million expansion and renovation project. The Kravis Center brings over 500,000 visitors to see performances each year and when the project is complete, they are expecting that number to increase significantly. There’s also the new Brightline, an express train connecting Palm Beach to Miami, which has been a great addition to the Palm Beach area.

Q: What advice can you offer sellers?

A: Be realistic and treat all offers genuinely and serious-

670 Island Drive in Palm Beach; listed for $20,995,000.

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JOANNE KAO Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices New York Properties / 646.677.9360 / joannekao@bhhsnyproperties.com

Q: Tell me about the pied-à-terre tax debate.

A: New York State recently amended the laws pertaining to mansion and transfer taxes (the Tax Amendments) instead of introducing an annual pied-à-terre tax. The Tax Amendments apply only to conveyances of property in New York City and other cities in New York State with a population of 1 million or more people. The Mansion Tax (a one-time levy on

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residential sales) ranges from .25 to 2.9 percent, in addition to the existing 1 percent tax that is already collected on residential properties sold for $1M or more. The law is effective as of July 1, 2019. This applies to all conveyance of real property except for those executed on or before April 1, 2019.

Q: Why are more people moving downtown?

A: A large population of younger New Yorkers consists of singles who are high earners. They are mobile and favor the flexibility of renting over purchasing an apartment, and they’re doing so in expensive neighborhoods that cater to their lifestyles. With this, the trend toward new developments with modern amenities and access to parks, shopping, and dining, etc., is shaping the “Live, work, play” paradigm.

300 East 33rd Street, #4c in New York; listed for $1,430,000.

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Q: What are buyers looking for in their homes?

A: Buying a home in NYC is an expensive undertaking; the median price of a home sold is $637,250—nearly three times the $230,100 national figure.

Many younger New Yorkers are single high-earners (HENRYs— high earning not yet rich) who favor living in new areas with new construction and access to lifestyle amenities such as restaurants, parks, gyms, transportation, and, overall, places where their peers are. New construction and neighborhoods such as Williamsburg, the Lower East Side, FiDi, and Long Island City satisfy this need, and with the discounts offered, it’s a no-brainer. To quote a customer who moved from the West Village to Williamsburg: “The apartment was beautiful, but it was old and falling apart. I just wanted to live in a new area, with new construction and amenities.”

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LIZA PULITZER & WHITNEY MCGURK Brown Harris Stevens / 561.310.7919 / lpulitzer@bhsusa.com & wmcgurk@bhsusa.com

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Q: Tell me about spring and summer in Palm Beach.

A: Spring and summer is always a time when islanders begin to think about heading north—or if you if you live here full-time, it’s time to go to the beach and decompress! With regard to real estate, we begin to see price reductions that signal great buying opportunities for buyers. It’s also a great time to purchase, as it gives buyers the chance to renovate/decorate in time for next season.

We now have “pop-ups” that bring enormous variety to the island, and our dining scene is growing by the year.

Today, most restaurants offer amazing dining experiences, whether you’re eating outdoors at Pizza Al Fresco or dining at Buccan and experiencing the scene—Palm Beach has everything.

Q: Anything else you’d like to share?

A: Palm Beach has a timeless feeling. Thanks, in part, to our Landmarks commission and ARCOM, we have been able to protect our island from massive redevelopment.

From the Estate section’s stately homes to midtown’s charming bungalows and to the north end’s fantastic beaches, Palm Beach is a vibrant island community.

Q: Aside from new construction, what’s hot on the island right now?

A: The Royal Poinciana Plaza is a destination for both locals and tourists alike, with hot new restaurants and fantastic shopping. There’s even outdoor yoga classes.

Q: What advice can you offer sellers?

A: Price your property competitively—be realistic!

Q: Have there been any major new openings in Palm Beach in the last couple months?

A: The shopping scene fluctuates throughout the year.

4 Golfview Road in Palm Beach; listed for $11,500,000.

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ASHLEY LICKLE O’NEIL & ASHLEY COPELAND Brown Harris Stevens / 561.596.5959 / aoneil@bhsusa.com or acopeland@bhsusa.com

Q: What’s hot in the area right now?

A: All over the island there is a flurry of homes being built new or renovated. The Royal Poinciana Plaza, which offers shopping, restaurants, and events, brings a lot of energy to the town, as does Worth Avenue. There is also a beautiful new development on Royal Poinciana Way, which is designed for outdoor shopping, and also offers condos, underground parking, and a new restaurant by The Breakers opening soon. The Related Group and other developers are predicting that the Palm Beaches will become the Greenwich of Florida.

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Q: What advice can you offer sellers?

A: It’s important to price properties realistically, because overpricing will cause a home to sit, become stale, and ultimately cause the seller to profit less. It’s also important to be patient—first-quarter Palm Beach real estate reports lackluster sales. However, March sales were better than January and February, and Palm Beach agents and brokers have seen sales increase dramatically going into the second quarter.

Q: Have there been any major new openings recently?

A: New York’s La Goulue is coming to Palm Beach next season. There are also plans to open a private club, very similar to a club at 5 Hartford Street in London, owned by the son of Annabel’s founder Mark Birley.

1632 S Ocean Blvd in Palm Beach; listed for $18,500,000.

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Q: Tell me about spring and summer in Palm Beach.

A: There is nothing better than spring in Palm Beach—gentle sunshine, ocean breezes, birds chirping, and flowers everywhere you look. People also enjoy Palm Beach into the summer because the town slows down as many return to their alternative residences. It’s almost like having the town to yourself, making it easy to get reservations and relax after the hectic season. Rather than a vacation destination, Palm Beach is now a 365 days-per-year sophisticated community.

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DANA KOCH The Koch Team at Corcoran Group / 561.379.7718 / dana.koch@corcoran.com

Q: Tell me about this time of year in Palm Beach. Do you expect the market to slow down with the arrival of summer?

A: The spring selling season tends to be our busiest, but we do business year-round in Palm Beach these days. As the warmer months approach, we know that the buyers who make the trip during the summer are serious about purchasing and want to be settled in for the upcoming season.

Q: Anything else you’d like to share?

A: There seems to be a nice equilibrium between buyers and sellers as the market in Palm Beach has flattened out over the last 12 months. If you are a buyer and you like a home, make an offer because there is a limited amount of inventory and the house may be scooped up more quickly than you would think!

Q: Tell us about a listing.

A: A magical 4-bedroom, 4.5-bath contemporary at 170 Everglade Avenue is located on an in-town ocean block close to the island’s top restaurants and shopping. The home offers modern, top-of-the-line finishes with high ceilings, Nano door, generator, and much more. u

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Q: What’s the best advice you could offer sellers right now?

A: When you receive a sensible offer, you need to strongly consider it. You don’t get offers every day of the week. Now more than ever, proper pricing is paramount.

Q: Have there been any major new openings in the last couple months (in terms of shopping, dining, entertainment, etc.?) Are there any in the works?

A: In the fall/early winter, we are anticipating the opening of New York favorite La Goulue—we are so excited. Recently, The Grand Tour, a home design store curated by talented designer Caroline Rafferty and her mother Julie Cummings, opened up in The Royal Poinciana Plaza. It’s a great spot to help you furnish your home.

170 Everglade Avenue in Palm Beach; listed for $6,250,000.

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Graphics, 1976-1986.” Opposite page:

Christopher Scoates, the director of the Museum of Arts and Design.

P O RT R A I T BY RYA N D E B O L S K I ; E XH I B I T I O N P H OTO BY J E N N A B A S CO M .

“Too Fast to Live, Too Young to Die: Punk

CO U RTE S Y O F T H E M U S E U M O F A RTS A N D D E S I G N .

This page: A view of the exhibition

THE ARTS

MAD’S MODERN NEW VIBE

BY KATHRYN MAIER

VISITORS TO MAD—that is, the Museum of Arts and Design—might be forgiven for now thinking that the “M” stands for Modern. Its major exhibition at the moment, “Too Fast to Live, Too Young to Die: Punk Graphics, 1976–1986” (on view through August 18), explores the punk and postpunk movements through the lens of graphic design, featuring more than 400 of punk’s most memorable graphics, including flyers, posters, album covers, and other ephemera—an exhibition with more of a contemporary edge than one might previously have found there. “Punk questioned everything,” says Christopher Scoates, the museum’s director, “and it’s that spirit of inquiry that is driving MAD forward today, presenting and debating innovative works and ideas with lots of energy, color, and noise.”

Scoates and the exhibition both came to MAD from the Cranbrook Art Museum in Bloomfield Hills, Michigan. Scoates’ proudest accomplishment while in his post there was starting a new program in 4D design (essentially adding time and sequence to the design process, whether that’s interactive design, artificial intelligence, or augmented or virtual reality)—its first new program in nearly 50 years. “My aspirations for MAD are not that dissimilar from my accomplishments at Cranbrook,” Scoates says. “Obviously, the history of this institution is based in craft, but we’re beginning to triangulate an important conversation around the future of craft, the future of design, and technology, to open up a dialogue and ask some important questions about the future: What a museum is like in the 21st century, and what does “craft” even mean in the 21st century?”

Also on display currently, in a similar vein, is “Non-Stick Nostalgia: Y2K Retrofuturism in Contemporary Jewelry” (on view through July 21), which examines creations by today’s jewelry designers who grew up during the turn of the millennium, internalizing the internet-driven futurism of the time, and how that affects their current aesthetic and the work they’re producing now, two decades later.

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This page, clockwise from above: “BMP (Blue Milk Pierced)” (2018), part of Non-Stick Nostalgia; Peter Saville’s work for Joy Division’s Closer (1980), part of the punk graphics exhibition; jewelry on display in Non-Stick Nostalgia. Opposite page, clockwise from top: A view of the punk graphics exhibition; an exterior view of MAD; a view of the punk graphics exhibition; Jamie Reid and Trevor Key’s work for the

mercial designs of the punk era—album covers, posters, and the like—and displays them without preciousness: Most pieces are affixed to the walls with magnets rather than framed, as though they were hung in a teenager’s bedroom. The exhibition examines the design strategies of that period, “from the black-and-white, very austere early work of ’76-’77, to the very flashy, colorful work of the New Wave period,” Scoates explains. The exhibition, the first of its kind in terms of scale and organized by theme, also looks at type and typography, which changed radically during the punk era, as well as at the way punk was influenced by other cultural phenomena of the time like comics and horror films. The punk era was “all about things being cut up, disorganized, questioning authority, questioning institutions, questioning everything that related to design, too,” says Scoates. The exhibition at MAD was adapted for its New York City run to include items that showcase the NYC punk scene, including flyers from CBGB and concert posters from Blondie and the Ramones.

MAD’s next major exhibition in this thread is “The World of Anna Sui,” opening in September and exploring the work of the New York-based fashion designer. “In fashion, she’s had a lot of punk elements; there’s a lot of musical influence in her work,” says Scoates. “The audience we’re building on for punk is the same audience I think will be interested in Anna Sui. “The punk movement certainly made a statement. And I think in many ways the museum is using the exhibition as a metaphor for its future programs,” Scoates says. “We’re looking to mix it up, be a little more dangerous and unpredictable than we have in the past.” u 90 QUEST

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Sex Pistols’ The Great Rock’N’Roll Swindle (1979).

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T R AV E L

WHEN TIM BARTON and Doug Gray established the Barton & Gray Mariners Club, they intended to create a much simpler and more affordable alternative to yacht ownership. As sailors, sport fishermen, and fans of all things that float, the two were painfully aware of the challenges of boat ownership and operation. As businessmen, they were also aware of the burdens that come with starting a business without healthy cash flow. So, they decided to go up the market— splashing a Hinckley Picnic Boat in Nantucket and Palm Beach while charging premiums to their original members.

Rather than a product, they created a market—welcom92 QUEST

ing yachting to a demographic that, up until the Barton & Gray Mariners Club, had no avenue for enjoying the coastal lifestyle. The club’s members are largely landlubbers—folks with little to no yachting experience, but eager to experience yachting.

Given the backgrounds, the founders built the club’s entire schedule around dayboating—not overnights, not even full days. “Members are ready to call it a day after three to five hours. The sun, the swimming, the dining, and, of course, the wining, takes its toll,” says Gray. “Plus, as a member, you know you’re going out again soon, so why spoil it?”

CO U RTE S Y O F B A RTO N & G R AY

ALL ABOARD WITH BARTON & GRAY

Barton & Gray offers membership in a fleet of crewed Hinckley Yachts throughout the Eastern seaboard with unlimited access to an entire fleet, all year long. The club also provides a crew that will organize and facilitate incredible experiences on the water.

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we just listened to our members, and when they said ‘put a Hinckley in NYC,’ we did. And now we have more than five Hinckleys operating in and around Manhattan.”

Gray adds, “Turns out there is much more to do with boats when it’s this easy—town car to the city from Greenwich is awful. Helicopter? Too noisy. Your own Hinckley? That works.”

Above all, Barton & Gray has evolved into providing more than Hinckleys for dayboating. Members now have access to an impressive schedule of exclusive events that

CO U RTE S Y O F B A RTO N & G R AY

Fast forward more than 12 years, the club is running thousands of outings, aboard close to 40 Hinckleys in 23 harbors, for hundreds of blissful members. In the beginning, it all made sense—Nantucket, Palm Beach, Newport, and Naples. But the firm’s popularity grew in New York City, Miami, Boston, Chicago, and Washington, D.C.—it turns out yachting in a major metro area is equally as fun as in the resort towns, islands, and enclaves the rest of the fleet operates in. Barton explains, “As with all hospitality brands,

T R AV E L

Barton & Gray originally launched in resort destinations like Nantucket, Palm Beach, Newport, and Naples, and has since expanded into metropolitan areas like New York and Washington, D.C.

keep the party going all year—from the Masters to the Opera House Cup, and the South Beach Wine & Food Fest to the Newport Folk Festival. Barton explains, “Every year we add more events, more yachts, and more harbors, and the members keep us up to date on where we need to be next.”

What’s next? “Annapolis and Boca Raton this year, then we will look to the West Coast, Caribbean, and Mediterranean. Should be a fun ride, and your readers should join us,” says Gray with a wink. u

CALENDAR

MAY

On May 22, the Playground Partners of the Central Park Conservancy will host its 27th Annual Family Party at the Heckscher Playground at 4 p.m. For more information, visit centralparknyc.org.

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Enjoy the flavors of Spring with the Samuel Waxman Cancer Research Foundation’s Havana Nights gala at the DL Rooftop at 6:30 p.m.

For more information, visit waxmancancer.org.

Council Gala at 5 p.m. The gathering is one of the most important annual industry events and is attended by more than 700 of the New York-area’s leading members of the real estate and construction communities. For more information, visit lincolncenter.org.

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Pequot Library in Greenwich will host its annual Pequot Derby Day to celebrate the running of the 145th Kentucky Derby with an afternoon of big hats, cold drinks, and tasty food begining at 4 p.m. For more information, visit pequotlibrary.org.

The Bruce Museum will host its 32nd Annual Bruce Museum Gala

HAVANA NIGHTS

DERBY DAY

GREENWICH GALA

at Greenwich Country Club at 6 p.m. The signature benefit raises citical funds that support the museum’s ongoing art and science exhibitions and educational programs. For more information, visit brucemuseum.org.

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CELEBRATING WOMEN

The New York Women’s Foundation will hold its annual Celebration of Women Breakfast at 7:30 a.m. The

Lincoln Center’s 60th Anniversay Diamond Julibee Gala will take place at the insitution at 5:30 p.m. The event will honor families who have had a signifigant impact on Lincoln Center over the past six decades.

For more information, email specialevents@lincolncenter.org.

Lincoln Center will hold its 46th Annual Real Estate and Construction 96 QUEST

The New England Society in the City of New York will host its annual Founders’ Day Celebration at 6:30 p.m. There will be cocktails, hors d’oeuvres, and music. For more information, visit nesnyc.org.

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The Holy Apostles Soup Kitchen will hold its 7th Annual Farm to Tray at 6:30 p.m. This year’s event will honor New York City Council Speaker Corey Johnson for his dedicated and ongoing support of the Soup Kitchen’s work to help New Yorkers in need. For more information and to get involved, visit holyapostlessoupkitchen.org.

DIAMOND JULIBEE

REAL ESTATE AFFAIR

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FOUNDERS’ DAY

FARM TO TRAY

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event will honor five groundbreaking leaders. For more information, visit nywf.org.

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CHARLESTON BEER

On May 5, Lincoln Center’s 60th Anniversary Julibee Gala will take place at the institution at 5:30 p.m. For more information, email specialevents@lincolncenter.org.

Charleston Beer Fest will take place at Riverfront Park in North Charleston and will serve the best beer in the Lowcountry. For more information and to purchase tickets, visit charlestoncitypaper.com.

CALENDAR

celebrities, including Prince Harry, Alicia Keys, Neil Patrick Harris, Kendall Jenner, Nicole Kidman, Penelope Cruz, and Sienna Miller.

For more information, visit vcpoloclassic.com.

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TASTE OF SUMMER

Central Park Conservancy will host its annual Taste of Summer event at the park’s Bethesda Terrace at 5 p.m. The evening will offer seasonal cocktails, cuisine from the city’s best restaurants, and an opportunity to dance the night away under the stars. Proceeds will benefit the Conservancy’s mission to restore and maintain Central Park. For more information, visit centralparknyc.org.

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AWARDS DINNER

On May 4, the Pequot Library in Greenwich will host its annual Pequot Derby Day to celebrate the running of the 145th Kentucky Derby with a big hats, cold drinks, and food. For more information, visit pequotlibrary.org.

SAVE THE CHILDREN

Save the Children will host its Second Annual Young Patrons Gala at 583 Park Avenue. The organization aims to give girls and boys in the United States and around the world a healthy start, an education, and protection from harm. For more information, visit savethechildren.org.

AMERICAN BALLET

American Ballet Theatre will host its annual Spring Gala at the Metropolitan Opera House at Lincoln Center at 6:30 p.m.

For more information, visit abt.org.

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LONDON’S FLOWERS

The RHS Chelsea Flower Show will take place in London through May 25, and will feature the very best that the gardening world has to offer, including the famous Great Pavilion at the heart of the show packed with specialist growers and nurseries. For more information, visit rhs.org.uk.

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PLAYGROUND PARTNERS

The Playground Partners of the Women’s Committee of the Central Park Conservancy will host the 27th Annual Family Party at Heckscher Playground at 4 p.m. The family-friendly fundraiser will feature activities geared toward children six

months to 10 years of age, from games to cupcake decorating.

For more information, visit centralparknyc.org.

WINGS OVER WALL STREET

The 19th Annual MDA’s Wings Over Wall Street Gala will take place at 6 p.m. in conjunction with ALS Month. Wings Over Wall Street has raised nearly $11.5 million to fund research to fight ALS and find breakthroughs to accelerate treatments and ultimately, to unlock the cure. For more information, visit wingsoverwallstreet.org.

JUNE 1

CHAMPAGNE & POLO

The 12th Annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic will return to Liberty State Park for a day of polo, summer sun, and Veuve Clicquot Champagne. In the past, the event has been attended by tens of thousands of New Yorkers and

The Historic House Trust will hold its 30th Anniversary Founder Awards Dinner at 6 p.m. Over the past 30 years the chairs of the Historic House Trust (HHT) have embodied all of these leadership traits—qualities that helped them steer a collection of largely neglected, decaying historic sites toward a brighter future. The evening will celebrate their achievements, which provide enduring value to many of the city’s greatest historic treasures. For more information, call 212.360.8204.

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TASTE OF HOPE

American Cancer Society will host its annual Taste of Hope event at the Metropolitan Pavilion at 6 p.m.

Featuring some of New York’s most popular restaurants and beverage vendors, guests can sample signature dishes and premier wines and spirits. For more information, visit tasteofhopenyc.org

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GREENWICH FILM

The Greenwich Film Festival will hold a Five-Year Anniversary Party at the Capitol Theatre in Port Chester at 7:30 p.m. The evening will feature a concert by Kesha, award presentation, and music by DJ April Larken. For more information, visit greenwichfilm.org.

On May 21, the RHS Chelsea Flower Show will take place in London through May 25, and will feature the very best that the gardening world has to offer. For more information, visit rhs.org.uk.

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Reed Krakoff’s daughter Sophie in a

ALL IN THE FAMILY Sophie Krakoff, daughter of Tiffany & Co.’s chief artistic officer, dazzles in the brand’s jewels.

P R O D U C E D B Y B R O O K E K E L LY PHOTOGRAPHED BY JULIE SK ARRATT HAIR BY CASIE MORGAN OF ANGELO DAVID SALON MAKEUP BY JOHN EDINGTON

Shoshanna dress with Tiffany & Co.’s Victoria mixed cluster earrings in platinum with diamonds, Paper Flowers diamond open flower bracelet, and Return to Tiffany Love Bugs blue topaz butterfly ring at Tao Group’s new Fleur Room at Moxy Chelsea.

Sophie in an ADEAM gown and Tiffany & Co.’s HardWear graduated link necklace, bracelet, and quadruple drop earrings in 18-kt. gold. She also wears the Tiffany T True narrow

bracelet and wide ring in 18-kt. gold, and the Tiffany T square bracelet, Tiffany T Two hinged bangle, and the Tiffany T Two ring in 18-kt. gold with pavĂŠ diamonds.

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This page: Sophie in Shoshanna’s Midnight Blanc Dress and Tiffany & Co.’s Tiffany T Two circle pendant, square bracelet, and Two ring in 18-kt. gold with pavé diamonds; and the Tiffany T wire bar earrings and True wide ring in 18-kt. gold. Opposite page: Sophie Krakoff in Shoshanna’s Midnight Marise Dress and Manolo Blahnik’s Maidugur Blue Satin heels. She wears Tiffany & Co.’s Victoria mixed cluster necklace, bracelet, and drop earrings, and the Tiffany T square bracelet, Two hinged bangle, and two ring in 18-kt. white gold with pavé diamonds.

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THE FRECCIA COLLECTION is among Vhernier’s most emblematic, and surely among its most colorful as well. The Italian jewelry brand is known for its bold expressions and use of color, inspired by contemporary art, and this collection expresses that influence with elegance and whimsy. Each piece features a sequence of bombé triangles, petal-like stones that evoke an abstract flower.

The collection comprises rings, bracelets, and earclips in gold and natural colored stones, some of which also feature pavé diamonds.

“There is something truly special about the Freccia collection,” says Carlo Traglio, president of Vhernier. “It is the epitome of a feminine jewel. Its curves evoke a female spirit, yet the bold links maintain the contemporary DNA of Vhernier.”

The shape is always soft, designed with the architectural approach and appreciation for the body for which Vhernier is famous: The rings are slanted in order to be comfortable to wear; the bracelets can be donned with just one simple gesture; 102 QUEST

and the earclips embrace the lobe gently.

“We combine petals of gold with precious stones,” Traglio says, “such as lapis lazuli, a dark blue gemstone which reminds me of some of the deepest parts of the ocean, where land is completely out of sight. Then there’s crystalline turquoise, a stone that immediately transports me back to the coast of Sardinia, a place that will forever bring me happiness. Our jewels tell a story, and these are just some of mine.”

The colors are mesmerizing: the vibrant green of jade, the ocean-blue of lapis lazuli, the bright turquoise and the vivid carnelian. All are made more sculptural by cabochons of rock crystal, which are superimposed onto each individual stone.

This is known as the “transparencies effect,” a technique that Vhernier has become recognized for. Some pieces feature a compact diamond pavé crafted by highly experienced master craftsmen using exclusively the most beautiful natural stones: never less than F color, VVS clarity and excellence in cut.

“Each individual jewel has a piece of my heart,” says Traglio. u

A LL I M A G E S CO U RT E S Y O F V H E R N I E R

VHERNIER’S VIBRANT HUES

This page, clockwise from above: Freccia bracelet in 18-kt. rose gold, carnelian, and rock crystal; Freccia ring in 18-kt. rose gold, lapis, and rock crystal; Freccia ring in 18-kt. white gold, diamonds, white mother of pearl, and rock crystal; Vhernier’s flagship store in Milan; Freccia earclips in 18-kt. rose gold, jade, and rock crystal. Opposite page: Carlo Traglio, president of Vhernier.

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BRIDAL BEAUTY

BY WEMPE

This page, clockwise from above: Wempe 10-carat Asscher cut diamond on a micropavé band; Wempe pear-shaped diamond drop earrings set in platinum; Wempe 3-carat pear-shaped diamond on a micropavé band; Wempe 7-carat round diamond with side trillions set in platinum; side view of Wempe 10-carat Asscher cut diamond on a micropavé band.

Opposite page, clockwise from top: Wempe jewelry enhances every bride’s beauty; Wempe 10-carat Asscher cut diamond on a micropavé band;

CO U RTE S Y O F W E M P E

a bride shines in Wempe’s delicately shimmering stones.

THE NAME WEMPE has been synonymous with jewelry of the highest quality for generations. Recently, the 140-yearold company launched a new bridal collection featuring an array of rings, from a 3-carat oval to an astonishing 10-carat Asscher cut, offering the ultimate selection of engagement rings handcrafted using the finest diamonds.

A highlight of the engagement ring collection is the impressive Wempe-cut solitaire, the company’s own patented cut diamond.

The Wempe cut is a completely innovative diamond that has 137 hand-cut facets, 80 more than the classic brilliant cut and has an extremely high light reflection. The diamonds used for the Wempe cut are sourced from mines in Botswana before being sent to Antwerp, where they are cut and polished. Each

ring is then set by experts at Wempe’s atelier.

“In addition to offering a stunning selection of rings,” says Kim-Eva Wempe, CEO of Wempe, “we also have the ability to create custom bespoke pieces at our atelier, assuring the bride-to-be receives the ring of her dreams.”

Wempe also offers an exquisite selection of day-of wedding jewels, from dazzling pear-shaped diamond earrings to stunning necklaces and bracelets that will add the perfect finishing touches to any bride’s look.

“I love creating beautiful engagement rings. It’s an honor when someone comes to Wempe to purchase a diamond and to commemorate such a special moment in their lives,” says Wempe. “We get to become a part of the love story.” u M AY 2 0 1 9 1 0 5

This page, clockwise from above left: Nura Teardrop Mixed Diamond Eternity Ring, Multi Band Diamond Ring, and Pebble Cluster Diamond Ring; Monica Vinader Siren Mini Nugget Cocktail Earrings, Cluster Necklace, and Bracelet; Nura Teardrop Earrings and Alta Capture Bracelet; Alphabet Diamond and Siren Pendants.

Opposite page: Monica Vinader, the brand’s founder and creative director.

MONICA VINADER’S INSPIRED DESIGNS MONICA VINADER is an everyday fine jewelry brand that celebrates individuality, with a range of contemporary pieces that can be styled, stacked, and personalized for a completely customizable look.

To celebrate the opening of their new store at 989 Madison Avenue this May, we sat down with Monica Vinader, founder and creative director of her eponymous jewelry line, to learn more about the brand.

CO U RTE S Y O F M O N I C A V I N A D E R

Q: Tell us about the origins of your brand.

A: I noticed an opportunity almost 11 years ago: Something was needed to bridge the gap between fashion and fine jewelry.

I wanted to create accessible jewelry that didn’t compromise on quality, with designs that felt elevated and relevant to a generation of women who were empowered, self-purchasing, and wearing their jewelry all the time. I felt that diamonds and gemstones should be enjoyed every day—at work, out to dinner, traveling—as that was in keeping with the life we lead.

That’s when I sat down with my sister Gaby to map out a business plan to fill this gap.

Q: How would you describe your jewelry?

A: Our designs always have a simplicity to their aesthetics, which is something we’re proud of, because making simple things while still being innovative is not easy. We constantly look to evolve our designs through working with new gemstones or silhouettes, or creating entirely new collections. We experiment with complex cuts and use vermeil—a plating technique that uses a thick layer of 18-kt. gold and rose gold over sterling silver. This means we offer a luxury product, hand-crafted to the highest quality, with accessible price points.

Q: What inspires you?

A: My references tend to come from vintage jewelry, museums, archeological finds, sculptures, and contemporary architecture. I love to travel and have been inspired from both living and traveling abroad, exploring the landscapes, colors, and

architecture of different countries including Italy, Morocco, Mexico, and India. It is during these travels that I am inspired to play with different shapes and styles.

Q: How does your own personal style influence your designs?

A: I collect items, take photographs, and sketch. We combine all of these into a mood board, and I work with my team to refine the inspiration down to specific shapes and colors. This journey means that each design is personal to me; I would never design something that I wouldn’t wear myself.

Q: You’ve developed a strong celebrity following. Do you have a favorite celebrity moment?

A: It would have to be when the Duchess of Cambridge first wore us to a gala back in 2014. I was on holiday in Florence, having a coffee, when I spotted a man reading a newspaper with the Duchess on the front page wearing our Riva collection. The pieces sold out in the U.S. instantly, and buzz continued for weeks. She’s since worn different pieces from us several times, which is a huge honor.

Q: What are your favorite pieces to wear right now?

A: The Alta Capture Bracelet can be worn a different way every day and looks as beautiful bare as it does decked with pendants. I love how elegant the Nura Teardrop Necklace looks layered or on its own. The linear style of the Signature Diamond Bangle allows it to layer seamlessly with any other bracelet, and the diamonds elevate any outfit. u M AY 2 0 1 9 1 0 7

FABIO ANGRI’S boutique jewelry line has been long-revered across Italy for its one-of-a-kind pieces and endless customizations. Lusso by Fabio Angri (Lusso, meaning “luxury” in Italian) is a collaboration between long time gemologist Gina Bonacci Clark and Fabio himself—a duo embarking on their second year in the United States.

The Fabio Angri Collection consists of butterflies and wildlife, all handcrafted in 18-kt. yellow, white, or rose gold with hand engravings. Delicately colored stones are individually set by hand with microscopic precision by the brand’s 18 Italian craftsmen. With these designs, Fabio Angri is a true pioneer of contemporary jewelry.

Angri’s passion for nature is clearly expressed in his creations—all unique, wearable works of art. “My wish is to have people fall in love with my art, my designs, and my way of being,” Angri says. “My jewelry is not a symbol of wealth and opulence, but instead, of a force that each person embodies

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inside themselves, like a tiger or a panther. I want people to be able to wear jewelry that represents the essence of their being, their character, and their personality.”

Angri’s jewels will have you asking yourself: Who are you inside? What is your inner passion? How do you see yourself? Are you a lion, a tiger, a dolphin, a dragon, a gentle butterfly...or perhaps a simple and beautiful rose? “One of my greatest satisfactions is to encounter someone wearing one of my creations. It makes me realize that, in someone else, I have brought the passion and joy of wildlife and nature to life. My collection celebrates the beauty of life— and all those who wear my pieces are the ambassadors of this celebration,” says Angri.

This year has already seen the opening of Fabio’s store in Varezze, Italy, an exclusive trunk show in Palm Beach at Mara-Lago, and the launch of his online store, lussobyfabioangri. com, with many more exciting projects underway. u

CO U RTEPSH Y OTO O F LU C RSESDOI TBY G OFA ES B IHOEARN EGRI

FABIO ANGRI’S CONTEMPORARY CREATIONS

Brought to life by Fabio Angri and Gina Bonacci Clark (opposite page), Fabio Angri’s modern jewelry collection consists of wildlife designs, all handmade in 18-kt. yellow, white, or rose gold, with personalized engravings.

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TONI FRISSELL, (C) LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, PRINTS AND PHOTOGRAPHS DIVISION, TONI FRISSELL COLLECTION (LC-F0-02-4712-72-10), ARCHIVE OF HOMER LAYNE

CHARLES JAMES WAS PERHAPS the greatest fashion designer of the 20th century. Christian Dior cited him as the inspiration for the “New Look.” Salvador Dali called his work “soft sculpture.” Balenciaga said that James had elevated fashion “to a pure art form.” He was known both for his avant-garde, sculptural, architectural designs and for his difficult personality.

During the peak of his career, from the 1930s to the 1950s, he dressed society ladies like Millicent Rogers and Austine Hearst in highly structured, wasp-waisted, voluminously skirted gowns, and was considered “America’s first couturier.” Yet he largely dropped out of view after the 1950s, and was nearly forgotten by the time of his death in 1978.

A retrospective of his designs at the Brooklyn Museum in 1982, “The Genius of Charles James,” sparked a resurgence of interest in the designer. The Met’s 2014 Costume Institute exhibition “Charles James: Beyond Fashion” reintroduced his work to a wide public, attracting over half a million visitors.

WALZ, COURTESY OF KEVIN WALZ; SKETCH (C) LUISE D. B. JAMES BLACK AND CHARLES B. H. JAMES; COURTESY OF R. COURI HAY. OPPOSITE PAGE: PHOTO BY

BY KATHRYN MAIER

ALL PHOTOS FROM CHARLES JAMES: THE COUTURE SECRETS OF SHAPE (SPECTOR BOOKS, 2019). THIS PAGE: PHOTO BY BARBRA WALZ, (C) THE ESTATE OF BARBRA

CHARLES JAMES: AHEAD OF HIS TIME

This page: Charles James concentrating on the final fitting with Mrs. Harrison (Mona) Williams.

Opposite page: Charles James and Homer Layne working at James’ Chelsea Hotel studio in the early 1970s; a sketch of Marlene Dietrich’s Bow Dress, 1962.

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AND PAUL PERALTA-RAMOS, 1955. OPPOSITE PAGE: PHOTO BY ALEXIS RUSPOLI-RODRIGUEZ, COURTESY OF THE ARCHIVE OF HOMER L AYNE

(C) THE BROOKLYNMUSEUM COSTUME COLLECTION AT THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART, GIFT OF THE BROOKLYN MUSEUM, 2009, GIFT OF ARTURO

THIS PAGE: PAT CLEVEL AND PHOTO BY JUAN RAMOS, (C) THE ESTATE OF ANTONIO LOPEZ AND JUAN RAMOS, ARCHIVE OF HOMER L AYNE; C APE IMAGE

And now, a new book, Charles James: The Couture Secrets of Shape (Spector Books), explores James’ later years and designs, during which he lived and worked at the Chelsea Hotel and continued to create for a more rock ‘n’ roll crowd than the society matrons he’d dressed at the peak of his popularity, befriending the likes of Andy Warhol and Lou Reed. Written and edited by Homer Layne, James’ longtime assistant, and Dorothea Mink, a professor of fashion design in Germany, the book delves deeply into the specifics of James’ garment design and construction—even showing how to create his perfect dress forms—and includes a plethora of archival photographs. Layne preserved James’ complete archive after his death—including his patterns, muslins, drawings, and manuscripts—some of which is reproduced in this book, with the aim of imparting how James’ innovative principles and technical achievements can be applied today.

“I don’t think that my work has ever been out of date,” James told his friend R. Couri Hay in a conversation originally published in Interview in 1972, “in that it was only ahead of its time, therefore it was only a matter of waiting until it became a new look.” Nearly a half-century after that conversation, pieces like the Eiderdown Jacket (designed in 1937!) remain ahead of their time and continue to influence even the most avant-garde of modern designers. As Rick Owens writes in the book’s preface, “James’ clothes were about order, rigor, and discipline…ideas that suggested an elevated code I admired and wanted to align myself with.” Having achieved immortality via influence, James—no longer relegated to obscurity—lives on. u

This page: A man on a motorcycle wearing James’ Eiderdown Jacket in New York City, early 1970s. Opposite page: David Wolfson with Pat Cleveland in James’ studio at the Chelsea Hotel, 1972; the leopard-skin long-front cape made for Millicent Rogers, 1944.

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THE BIRTH OF ROLEX “HE COULD NOT just wear a watch. It had to be a Rolex.”

This view, espoused by Ian Fleming in Casino Royale, is shared by many who have donned the classic timepiece. While many watch and jewelry brands have come and gone, Rolex has, over the past century, proven itself a classic for its elegance, reliability, and durability. The brand dates to 1905, when Hans Wilsdorf, just 24 years old at the time, began envisioning a clock that could be worn on the wrist and established a company in London that distributed timepieces. While this concept of a wristwatch did exist at the time, it lacked the precision that Wilsdorf sought. The desire for a wristwatch that was both accurate and aesthetically luxurious ultimately resulted in the birth of Rolex. “We want to be the first in the field and Rolex should be seen as the one and only—the 114 QUEST

CO U RTE S Y O F H A R A L D G OT TS C H A L K ; A S S O U L I N E P U B L I S H I N G

B Y B R O O K E K E L LY

This page: Hans Wilsdorf supervising in the workshop, circa 1940. Opposite page, above to below: Andy Warhol photographed wearing his Rolex in 1981 in Assouline’s Rolex: The Impossible Collection; Rolex’s Split Seconds Chronograph model.

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87 models of distinction, including the Cosmograph Daytona (Ref. 6239) featured on the book’s cover. The Daytona model is perhaps most recognizable for having been worn by the late Paul Newman, and is often referred to as the “Paul Newman Rolex.” A Daytona model worn by Newman recently made headlines in 2017, after Phillips Auction sold the piece to an anonymous buyer for a record-breaking $17.8 million—truly displaying the model’s incomparable value.

Assouline’s book also showcases Rolex’s first-ever model, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer, which was worn by Sir Edmund Hillary as he summited Mount Everest. Also featured is the coveted Submariner model worn by George Lazenby in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service of the James Bond series, among many other tokens that have made the brand what is it today. u

CO U RTE S Y O F H A R A L D G OT TS C H A L K ; A S S O U L I N E P U B L I S H I N G

best,” said Wilsdorf of the newly launched brand. And this aspiration quickly became a reality.

In 1914, Kew Observatory in Great Britain recognized a Rolex watch with a class A certificate for quality, an award that had in the past only been granted to marine chronometers.

Since this distinction of excellence, the brand has achieved many breakthroughs, including the creation of the first waterproof wristwatch and the first diver’s watch.

Now the most collected watch label in the world, Rolex has come to symbolize power, maturity, and success. Specializing in luxury coffee-table tomes, Assouline recently published Rolex: The Impossible Collection, featuring the brand’s rarest and most sought-after pieces ever made, selected by Fabienne Reybaud, a jewelry and watch editor for France’s Le Figaro. An expert in the field, Reybaud worked with Assouline to identify

This page: Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master model. Opposite page, clockwise from above left: The cover of Assouline’s new book, featuring the Cosmograph Daytona (Ref. 6239), which was recently purchased for $17.8 million; action from the annual Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup in 2017 (left) and the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II; Rolex’s Antimagnetic Chronograph model; Prince XXL., Ref. 1609 UF. (left) was a favorite of Humphrey Bogart.

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JAR’S SECRET GEMS

BY MARY GODFREY

QUEST ARCHIVE: MAY 2008

Paris’s Place Vendôme is home to JAR’s shop.

Opposite, clockwise from left: Demantoid garnet and diamond ear pendants; emerald and diamond ring; colored diamond “thread” ring, all auctioned at Christie’s from Ellen Barkin’s collection.

CO U RTE S Y O F C H R I S T I E ’ S ( J E W E L RY )

WHEN SUSAN Gutfreund turned the hand-crafted, flower-shaped doorknob of Joel Arthur Rosenthal’s unmarked jewelry store at rue de 1 l’Université in Paris, and entered the dark, three-room shop for the first time, she felt as if she had stepped into the cafe of Ali Baba.

“Each piece of jewelry seemed to glow, and one seemed more beautiful than the next,” Gutfreund said of the creations.

And soon after, when Gutfreund, an interior designer, and now, longtime patron of the artist, presented Rosenthal with a pair of pearls she purchased at auction at Christie’s, he designed a breathtaking custom piece; surrounding the pearls with black and gray stones and wrapping them in tiny diamonds, he created a pair of clip earrings. “From there,” Gutfreund says, “it was the beginning of a long and wonderful friendship.”

Today, Rosenthal, known to collectors as JAR, commands a prominent network of clients, including Ann Getty, Elizabeth Taylor, and Elle McPherson. His pieces garner equally notable prices on the auction block. According to Christie’s Paris jewelry chairman of jewelry, François Curiel, although only 87 pieces have appeared at the auction house since 1984, all of them sold for well over the estimated price. For example, a 22.72 carat diamond ring from a lot provided by actress Ellen Barkin in 2006 went for $1.8 million—$600,000 above the market rate at the time. “Our estimates appear to always ridiculously low and I have even considered no longer publishing them.”

But for all his popularity, the elusive designer keeps to himself. He does not grant interviews, and clients must make an appointment to see him. He has only exhibited his pieces twice to the public—once in 1987 at the National Academy in New York, and again in 2002 in London and at the Somerset

House in New York. When this writer contacted him for an interview, Rosenthal responded in an email: “Alas, we do not participate in journalistic activity beyond our contribution to the exhibition’s success in London 2002/2003, but we do thank you for your kind enthusiasm.”

His exclusivity and reluctance to speak with the press, however, must not be mistaken for pretension, Gutfreund says. “He M AY 2 0 1 9 1 1 9

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in the United States with Bulgari, Rosenthal, along with Jeannet, embarked on their jewelry enterprise, JAR, and set up his present-day shop.

Despite the absence of a formal design background, Rosenthal’s arts education, Gutfreund notes, contributes to his work. “His liberal arts education is what allows him to go outside the boundaries of design,” she says. When creating a two-strand black and white pearl necklace for the interior designer, Rosenthal fashioned a paisley clasp encrusted with rubies. “You wouldn’t expect that for a closure, and it reminds you of something you once saw in a painting somewhere.” But his unique approach with his bold designs are not only outstanding attributes, a dogged and passionate love for detail sets him apart from other, more commonplace jewelers. “Contrary to all other designers who design butterflies, the antennas of his are never symmetrical,” Curiel says. “Have you ever seen a butterfly flying with symmetrical antennas? All other jewelers seem to have seen it.”

This commitment to detail spills over into his commissions as well, and it is the personal touches that distinguish Rosenthal from the pantheon of popular designers. On a green stone bracelet he designed for Gutfreund, Rosenthal added the words, “Toward love with you,” in Russian. To someone else, it may look like a graphic, but Gutfreund notes, “the writing is pointed to you, so only you can read it. It is for your eyes only.”

And the effect of such an approach is a special designer-client bond. “He will sometimes add a tiny stone in a secret place, only known to the wearer and himself,” Curiel says. “It is there not for show, but for the owner’s pleasure, and naturally, himself.”

Exclusive cleintele and distinctive designs aside, the designer stands out most among his followers for his deference to clients. “You never get the sense that he is about commerce,” Gutfreund says. “He is the same way with his creations as he is with his friends— he is respectful, he never changes, and he is always committed.” u This page, top to bottom: “Gardenia” ring; emerald and gold ring; wooden purse infused with brown diamonds, designed for Gutfreund; emerald ring; topaz, ruby, and diamond earrings; jade bracelet with “amour” written in diamonds for Gutfreund. Opposite: The Hydrogrossular garnet and diamond ring (top) and the amethyst and emerald ring (bottom) were higher-priced rings from Barkin’s sale.

CO U RTE S Y O F C H R I S T I E S / DA N A F O W LE R C H A R E T T E ( P U R S E , A M O U R B R AC E LE T )

is shy, but he is an artist who expresses himself through his pieces.” Producing only 70 to 80 pieces a year, many of which are designed with someone in mind, Rosenthal keeps his client list tight. With only one shop and a staff of five, the designer spends most of his time creating, closing his shop at lunchtime and weekends and taking off regular vacations.

The result is exemplary work, Curiel says.

“Everything is handmade, using traditional artisan techniques, which are extremely time-consuming.”

Known for using pavé design, a technique in which minute gemstones are placed together along a blackened alloy, Rosenthal employs a creative use of color and materials. His pieces include a wide array of stones including coral, moonstones, pink and violet sapphires, tourmalines, and, of course, diamonds. “Precious gems are used in combination with semi-precious stones, a term which, by the way, is non-existent in Joel’s language,” Curiel says.

One example of the designer’s playful use of stones includes a pendant he crafted for Gutfreund.

Using a pearl she gave him, Rosenthal cut the stone in half to create the body of a swan. The neck is made of tiny pavé diamonds, and in the beak, he placed a pink briolette sapphire. “There is always this sense of imagination and fantasy in his designs,” Gutfreund says.

“He takes ordinary things and makes them special.”

Rosenthal’s striking and unconventional approach to design stands out against his more traditional upbringing. Born in 1943, he was the only son to a postal administrator and a biology teacher. But even in his youth, Curiel says, Rosenthal showed early passion for color and design. “He would spend hours pouring drops of watercolor into glasses of water to study the effects of the various shades as they diluted in the liquid.”

He later graduated from Harvard in 1965 with a degree in art history and philosophy, and moved to Paris to try his hand first at screenwriting, and later, with his Swiss-born partner, Pierre Jeannet, a needlepoint shop.

Finally, in 1977, after a short stint

“There is always this sense of imagination and fantasy in his designs.

He takes ordinary things and makes them special.�

QUEST ARCHIVE: MAY 2008

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STYLED BY CRICKET BURNS PHOTOGRAPHED BY JACK DEUTSCH

This spring’s collection of colorful gems is nothing short of intoxicating. These fanciful stones, set in cool, clean platinum, are sure to quench your thirst for 100-proof glamour.

ON THE

ROCKS 122 QUEST

Van Cleef & Arpels Opposite: Van Cleef & Arpels’s Farandole bracelet with intense yellow and white diamonds.

877.VANCLEEF.

Diamond in the Rough

QUEST ARCHIVE: MAY 2008

Diamond in the Rough’s Iceberg ring features a 15-carat natural rough diamond accented with micro-pavé diamonds.

800.558.1855.

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123

Graff Graff’s multi-color sapphire and white diamond triple-strand necklace.

212.355.9292.

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Roberto Coin Roberto Coin’s Fantasia Cluster rings.

Top: Of round-cut yellow and white diamonds. Bottom: Of white round-cut diamonds.

800.853.5958.

QUEST ARCHIVE: MAY 2008 M AY 2 0 1 9

125

From left: The former TWA Terminal at JFK Airport is being reincarnated as the TWA Hotel; the TWA Hotel’s 512 rooms have cocktail bars, Hollywood-style vanities, and furnishings designed by Eero Saarinen,

CO U RTE S Y O F T WA H OTE L

including womb chairs and tulip tables.

FLIGHT OF FANCY

BY KATHRYN MAIER

WHEN THE TRANS WORLD AIRLINES (TWA) terminal first opened at John F. Kennedy International Airport (then known as Idlewild) in 1962, it was hailed as an architectural masterpiece. An emblem of the golden age of air travel, the gull-winged steel-and-concrete structure evoked flight itself. It was famed architect Eero Saarinen’s final building, opened a year after his death.

The terminal closed in 2001, as TWA fell into bankruptcy, and stayed dark for the better part of two decades. Soon, however, it will be reincarnated as the only on-site hotel at JFK, scheduled to open May 15. “Restoring the TWA Hotel is a labor of love,” says Tyler Morse, CEO of MCR and MORSE Development, the hotel’s developer. “We are counting down the days until the landmark building is filled with life again.”

The original terminal will serve as the hotel’s lobby, while a pair of new buildings behind the historic terminal will hold the hotel’s 512 rooms, kitted out M AY 2 0 1 9 1 2 7

LO C K H E E D CO N S T E LL AT I O N P H OTO BY A A RO N F L AC K E

A LL I M A G E S CO U RT E S Y O F T WA H OT E L . V I N TA G E P H OTO BY B A LT H A Z A R KO R A B ;

in midcentury modern décor—including furnishings designed

by Eero Saarinen such as his womb chair, executive chair, and tulip side table. “From the moment guests and visitors arrive at the TWA Hotel,” says Morse, “they will find themselves immersed in the ethos of 1962’s rich culture, architecture, sights, sounds, and ambience.”

Hungry guests can choose from among six restaurants, the most notable of which is the Paris Café, helmed by celeb chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten and serving food inspired by inflight menus from TWA. The Sunken Lounge, at the heart of the terminal, will return to its 1962 splendor courtesy of the Gerber Group, the team behind the recent revamp of The Campbell in Grand Central. Underneath a classic split-flap departures board, the lounge will offer classic cocktails one might have sipped in the ’60s—including the Old Fashioned and the, ahem, Aviation—as well as the official TWA Martini and the Royal Ambassador Cocktail, which was once served to TWA’s most elite passengers in gold-flecked glassware. “So much history has been made in The Sunken Lounge—crowds gathered to watch the Beatles arrive in the United States in 1965, and visitors saw the Tin Goose break a transcontinental record right outside the window in June 1962,” says Morse.

From left: The former TWA terminal circa 1962; TWA Hotel’s 1958 Lockheed Constellation “Connie” L-1649A, which began life as a TWA aircraft, will be parked immediately outside the hotel and repurposed as a cocktail bar.

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rooms feature midcentury modern design and thick-paned windows to keep out the roar of jet engines; the TWA Terminal pre-constrction in 2017; A Royal Ambassador menu from the TWA Hotel’s collection of artifacts; the TWA terminal circa 2017; the Sunken Lounge pre-construction.

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A LL I M A G E S CO U RT E S Y O F T WA H OT E L . LO B BY / LO U N G E P H OTO S BY M A X TO U H E Y.

Clockwise from above: A TWA Hotel room key;

“Having a cocktail on these grounds will be like stepping back into 1962—without the cigarette smoke.” It’s one of eight bars the hotel will hold; another will be housed inside a repurposed 1958 Lockheed Constellation (which began its life as a TWA aircraft) parked just outside the hotel.

Other hotel amenities include a 10,000-squarefoot fitness center, as well as a rooftop pool and observation deck. The hotel will also house a museum celebrating midcentury design and travel, curated by the New-York Historical Association and holding more than 2,000 artifacts, including vintage air hostess uniforms by Valentino, Ralph Lauren, and Stan Herman; vintage furniture from the TWA headquarters; and in-flight amenities such as gilded playing cards and silver serving ware.

Commercial air travel likely will never regain its former romance, when it was a source of allure and excitement, a novelty for most. But if glamour is fleeting, architecture is less so, and Saarinen’s building—and the midcentury artifacts and design pieces it now holds—may be the closest we’ll get in the present era to the grandeur of air travel’s golden age. The hotel has a stop on the air train, too; you may hear it beckoning during an inevitable flight delay. Pop over for a martini and raise a glass to the days when travel was a cause for celebration. u

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THE YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST

BY BROOKE KELLY

Stella Maxwell and Hirschy Grace at

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Moschino’s Desert Party.

Clockwise from above left: Pia Shah preparing to experience the roller-skating rink at Jeremy Scott’s bash celebrating Moschino x The Sims; Bria Vinaite; Gigi Gorgeous; Jasmine Sanders, Jeremy Scott, and Danielle Herrington; DJ Diplo and Lucas McNees.

MOSCHINO’S ANNUAL PALM SPRINGS DESERT PARTY

B FA

ON APRIL 13, just as Coachella was taking off in Palm Springs,

Jeremy Scott hosted his annual Desert Party at his renowned Elrod House (also known as Willard Whyte’s mansion in the 1971 James Bond film Diamonds Are Forever). The evening honored the launch of Mochino’s recent collaboration with video game classic The Sims—a new ready-to-wear capsule collection filled with animated designs. Not only is the collection available across Moschino stores worldwide, but the computer program allows its users to style the Moschino looks inside the

game. For the occasion, Scott’s home featured a large screen projecting imagery of the new looks, specialty cocktails by Ciroc, a roller-skating rink and carnival-style slide, a live musical performance by Saweetie, and DJ’d beats by Diplo, A-Trak, and more. Later on, it was also announced that Moschino signed on for another project with Sephora—now available. Guests included Stella Maxwell, Rowan Blanchard, Kiernan Shipka, Tommy Dorfman, Lizzo, Frances Bean Cobain, Winston Duke, Hari Nef, Bria Vinaite, Erika Jayne, and Jasmine Sanders.

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at Tao Downtown in the Meatpacking District; cohosts Tamie and Rich Thomas; Perrine Meistrell, Amanda Starbuck, Donna Simonelli, and Callie Baker.

▲ RICH AND TAMIE THOMAS’ BIRTHDAY BASH

▼ YOUNG FRIENDS OF SAVE VENICE IN SOHO

ON APRIL 12, we celebrated the birthday of everyone’s favorite nightlife connoisseur, Rich Thomas, and his lovely wife, Tamie, at Tao Downtown in the Meatpacking District. As a partner of the Tao Group—which most recently introduced Moxy Chelsea—Rich is known for throwing a good party, and for this special occasion he went above and beyond. Tables with bottle service and sparklers had party-goers dancing well into the morning to music by DJ Turbz under the nightclub’s giant disco ball. Guests included Matthew Raynes, Brian Johnson, Amanda Starbuck, Callie Baker, and Donna Simonelli, among others.

LAST MONTH, the Young Friends of Save Venice hosted its Artista e Musa event at JIMMY at the James in SoHo. Preceding the organization’s long-awaited masquerade ball at The Plaza, Artista e Muse, chaired by Lizzie da Trindade-Asher, offered guests an opportunity to bid for masks donated by couture milliners Leah C and Gigi Burris, with designs by artist Andrew Rudjord.

Proceeds from the dreamy masks supported the charity’s mission to preserve the artistic heritage of the city afloat. Guests included Kate Curkin, Casey Kohlberg, Michele Levbarg-Klein Rayden, Shana Davis, Timo Weiland, and Alyson Cafiero.

Left to right: David Thielebeule, Timo Weiland, and Michael Tomei at Young Friends of Save Venice’s Artista e Musa party at JIMMY at the James in SoHo; Lizzie da Trindade-Asher addressing the party; Shana Davis and Craig Montague.

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Left to right: Rich and Tamie Thomas’ birthday celebration

Clockwise from above left: Eiza Gonzalez; Cartier’s annual party at la Conciergerie in Paris, toasting the new Clash de Cartier collection; Charlie Heaton and Natalia Dyer; Bianca Brandolini, Cyrille Vigneron, and Jake Gyllenhaal; Sofia Coppola, Rami Malek, and Lucy Boynton.

CLASH DE CARTIER PARTY IN PARIS STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE; FRANÇOIS GOIZE

WITH THE DEBUT OF its new jewelry collection, Clash de

Cartier, the Paris-based brand hosted its annual extravaganza at la Conciergerie in the City of Lights. As suggested in the collection’s name, the designs—featuring beaded embellishments, spikes, and, in some cases, bold colors—delightfully clashed with Cartier’s fine classic jewels that have come to define the house. In the campaign’s video, Kaya Scodelario danced to a rock ‘n’ roll hit by Billy Idol throughout, while showcasing Cartier’s new pieces. In addition to an over-the-top dinner,

dancing, and a surprise performance from Idol himself, the event featured acts by L’Impératrice and 2 Many DJ’s, and cocktails all night long. Guests included Cyrille Vigneron, Jake Gyllenhaal, Sofia Coppola, Monica Bellucci, Kaya Scodelario, Rami Malek, Lucy Boynton, Xavier Dolan, Claire Foy, Letitia Wright, Annabelle Wallis, Mélanie Laurent, Tilda Swinton, Troye Sivan, Natalia Dyer, Charlie Heaton, Alek Wek, Beth Ditto, Bianca Brandolini, Amira Casar, Maiwenn, Romain Duris, Niels Schneider, and Tahar Rahim, among others. u M AY 2 0 1 9 1 3 5

SNAPSHOT

BUTTON UP nd ON EAST 62 THE GOLD BUTTON has hung outside the

townhouse on East 62nd Street since 1968, when the store moved downtown from its original home on East 77th Street. But the button has not always been gold. “It started with a pink button, but that was ridiculous,” says Millicent Safro, the owner of the button and of Tender Buttons, the shop outside which it hangs. Upgraded over the years, the button has had adventures of its own: “I once got a call in the middle of the night,” remembers Millicent, “saying, ‘we found your button in a trash can on 68th and Third,’ and of course we ran to retrieve it.”

Inside the tiny door below this golden trademark lies a spice market of buttons, millions of them, living in miniature drawers. There are ordinary buttons, fantastic buttons, antique buttons, antler, rhinestone, ivory, and gold buttons. Millicent also once lived here, in her own tiny drawer of sorts, the eleven-foot wide apartment upstairs.

“It was very sweet,” she says, “we looked out the little 136 QUEST UEST

window at night—the city was illuminated like a Berenice Abbott photograph.” Millicent and her late partner, Diana Epstein, slipped into this career “quite by accident,” in the 1960s, upon buying a huge amount of buttons “just because they were so interesting.” Since then, Tender Buttons has been “helping the economy by selling one button at a time,” says Millicent, who has a bold-faced clientele, including Julia Roberts, Sidney Poitier, Catherine Deneuve, Julie Andrews, and Kermit, the frog, whose trench coat’s buttons are Tender ones.

Tender Buttons is part of what makes New York magical—a city where some dream of living and where some live and never leave. Each of these tender buttons, from a different place, a different time, has its own story—not unlike the New Yorkers who have passed under that gold button each day for decades. —Rebecca Morse Tender Buttons is located at 143 East 62nd Street. Above, images from Millicent Safro and Diana Epstein’s book Buttons (Abrams, 1991).

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