Quest September 2015 by QUEST Magazine

$5.00 SEPTEMBER 2015

FALL FASHION ISSUE

LAUREN REMINGTON PLATT IN VALENTINO AT THE BACCARAT HOTEL

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CONTENTS

Fall Fashion i ssue 92

MAKING BUSINESS OUT OF BEAUTY

at the Baccarat Hotel.

Vênsette’s Lauren Remington Platt sparkles

Daniel Cappello,

photographeD by Julie

skarratt

100

DUSTING FOR FOOTPRINTS

104

SLIPPING INTO SOME QUIPS Eleanor Lambert, doyenne of fashion publicists, and her clever collection of quotes worth noting. by DaviD patriCk Columbia

108

KEEPING IT CONFIDENTIAL Carolina Herrera de Báez teams up with her mother to launch a new fragrance collection. by elizabeth meigher

116

IN AWE OF AUDREY

120

ÉLAN EVERLASTING

126

MUSING FALL FASHION

A new exhibit at the MoMu in Antwerp proves that high-fashion footwear can be a mysterious beast. by lily hoaglanD

126

Audrey Hepburn: Portraits of an Icon (Skira Rizzoli) debuts with an exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery. by elizabeth Quinn brown

An invitation inside the private world of fashion great Jacqueline de Ribes, who’s about to be honored at the Costume Institute. by Cherie burns

proDuCeD by

The latest looks on the designers who created them. Daniel Cappello, illustrateD by blair breitenstein

134

HIS KIND OF TOWN

140

JANE BIRKIN & THE “BIRKIN” The iconic bag for the chicest of the chic—and the even more iconic woman it was named after. by hilary geary ross

On the occasion of Frank Sinatra’s centennial, the Fontainebleau pays Ol’ Blue Eyes a subtle but touching tribute. by alex travers

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62 68

CONTENTS C olumns 26

SOCIAL DIARY

HARRY BENSON

THE VIRTUES OF A HARD HEAD

FOOD & LIFESTYLE

FRESH FINDS

SHOPPING

FASHION

EDUCATION

MARRIAGES

OPEN HOUSE

SOCIAL CALENDAR

158

YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST

160

SNAPSHOT

Eleanor Lambert and the birth of the “Best Dressed List.” by DaviD patriCk Columbia The formidable Yves Saint Laurent, caught on the runway in 1993. Football and scandals.

t aki theoDoraCopulos

Ripe from the vine, now is the time for Heirloom Tomato Pie.

alex hitz

Back to school means back to fashion. by Daniel Cappello anD elizabeth meigher

Worth New York is on the up and up, opening in the penthouse of the Crown Building.

The high heel is put on high display at the Palm Springs Art Museum. by Daniel Cappello The International Baccalaureate Diploma Program preps students for success. by alex travers From New Orleans to London, we bear witness as couples say, “I do.” by elizabeth Quinn brown A couple of properties to treasure in the Hamptons—they’re as elegant as they are exclusive. All the events and galas worth saving the date for in the transition from summer to fall. Our columnist flocks to the Hamptons with the PYTs. by elizabeth Quinn brown

Remembering a true original designer: the colorful, wonderful Arnold Scaasi. by elizabeth meigher

questmag.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA C R E AT I V E D I R EC TO R

JAMES STOFFEL EXECUTIVE EDITOR

LILY HOAGLAND FA SHION DIRECTOR

DANIEL CAPPELLO ART DIRECTOR

VALERIA FOX F E AT U R E S E D I TO R

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ROBERT BENDER P H OTO G R A P H E R - AT - L A R G E

JULIE SKARRATT SOCIET Y EDITOR

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ANTIQUES CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

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BESPOKE FURNITURE

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MID-CENTURY

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INTERIORS

LIZ SMITH TAKI THEODORACOPULOS MICHAEL THOMAS CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

TERRY ALLEN DREW ALTIZER HARRY BENSON BRENDAN BURKE LUCIEN CAPEHART PHOTOGRAPHY MIMI RITZEN CRAWFORD BILLY FARRELL MARY HILLIARD CRISTINA MACAYA CUTTY MCGILL PATRICK MCMULLAN ANNIE WATT

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EDITOR’S LETTER

From left: Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé; a model in a dress by Mollie Parnis, photographed by Horst P. Horst; the Harry Winston team and Daniel Cappello fitting Lauren Remington Platt with the Secret Combination by Harry Winston Diamond Necklace (inset).

EVERYONE KNOWS OF Pierre Bergé, man of impeccable taste. He is the ideal audience for any creator: someone who looks upon the work with the same love and knowledge they possess. His pitch-perfect discernment was the bedrock of the success of his fashion house with partner Yves Saint Laurent. In his column this month, Harry Benson captures the two back in 1993, when the YSL brand was flying high, gaining an altitude from which it has not yet come down. But do not be fooled into thinking this talent of Bergé’s is limited to the world of fashion. He is a man who appreciates beauty in all the forms that can convey it to the world—art, literature, humanitarianism, even politics. At the time Benson took his picture, Bergé, on top of running the fashion house, was also head of an intellectual magazine, Globe, and had just been appointed a UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador. Naturally, a guy like that has got to have a fantastic library. And so he does, part of which is going on the auction block this year, and 60 of those works will be on display at Sotheby’s in New York from September 10–13. So if anybody wants to get me something thoughtful this year, an autographed first edition of Gustave Flaubert’s Madame Bovary is available. And what was the ruin of poor Madame Bovary (aside from those pesky boys)? Fashion! Its power held sway even over countryside women at the turn of the 19th century, and its grip has yet to soften. For our cover story, Daniel Cappello shows us 24 QUEST

one of its vanquishers, Lauren Remington Platt, killing in couture. We have scores of others: from Jacqueline de Ribes to Jane Birkin to Carolina Herrera, these are the Amazonians (in spirit—the women are quite petite in real life) who slew the beast of fashion and made its pelt into a floor-length coat. As they say, that's not makeup, sweetheart, it’s war paint. u

Lily Hoagland ON THE COVER: Vênsette founder Lauren Remington Platt at the Baccarat Hotel wearing a Valentino dress, Stuart Weitzman heels, a Van Cleef & Arpels ring, and a ring and earrings by Harry Winston. Part of “Making Business Out of Beauty,” by Daniel Cappello, photographed by Julie Skarratt.

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A

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NEW YORK SO CIAL DIARY IT’S FASHION “Month” here in New York, although the main chance for the industry is New York Fashion Week (NYFW)—which runs through the second week of the month and dominates a lot of the social activity that begins again after the Summer. The “Academy Awards” of this industry is, of course,

the “Best Dressed List,” which is now owned by Vanity Fair magazine. The List was launched first in 1940 by Eleanor Lambert, who was 10 years into a brilliant career as a publicist and public relations consultant for what was then known as the garment industry. The List was only one of

the major events that this diminutive lady created with her towering imagination and inventiveness that transformed the industry. New York Fashion Week, itself— along with the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA)—were among her contributions that, over the following two decades,

altered and grew the industry into a world leader of fashion. Eleanor’s List was at a turning point in the state of the world, and it was a brilliant marketing move on her part: a simple case of seizing victory from the jaws of defeat. There had been a “Best Dress List” that had come out of Paris in the late 1920s, a.k.a. the inter-

THE WOMEN OF THE INAUGURAL BEST DRESSED LIST (1940)

Dorothy Paley

Mona WIlliams 26 QUEST

Millicent Rogers

Janet Stewart

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A “ C I R C U S O F ST I L L N E S S ” TO B E N E F I T T H E W AT E R M I L L C E N T E R

Merrie Harris and Nathaniel Kramer

national Best Dressed List. It had been a marketing tool (although such a term was never in use then): a simple way of promoting the business of the couture houses of Paris. Coincidentally, it had been greatly influenced by the Chicago-born, self-promoting couturier named Main Bocher, who combined his first and last name to make an international label: Mainbocher. When France fell to the Nazis in 1940, Main Bocher moved his business to Manhattan where it remained for the rest of his long career. Eleanor’s List was transformative not because of its originality (since it wasn’t original) but because, for the first time, the American audience paid attention to it. They were ready for it, since the greatest influence on fashion for American women (and men, too) had been the movies. Fashion had once been the domain of the wealthy, which included stage and film 28 QUEST

Sonja Bebber

Madeleine Paternot and Dmitry Komis

Chris Henchy and Brooke Shields

Constance Bennett

Elena Shchelchkova

Connie Tarrant

stars and political figures along with the main attraction: socialites. Women often went to the movies just to see what the stars were wearing. Constance Bennett, the movie star who was then in her mid- to late-twenties, wore the message that inspired many of her more fashionable contemporaries, no matter their socioeconomic circumstances. She represented high style, self-confidence, and glamour. Ready-to-wear, as it’s known today, was a luxury when it came to high style. But American women were often handy with their sewing machines, so fashion magazines, namely Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, got a great deal of their income from selling patterns. Millions of American women could make their own high fashion, and did. Eleanor’s List often provided the impetus. “You cannot,” she said, “separate people, their yearnings, their dreams, and their inborn vanity from

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

Inga Otto, Claude Grunitzky and Robert Wilson

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A an interest in clothes.” The List also created the notion of a fashion leader. The first was New York–oriented, which was natural since New York was the garment/fashion center of the country. Eleanor’s original idea of adapting the French concept was enormously effective for enhancing the image of the designers as well as he industry, plus the individual ladies it named. It reflected the American can-do attitude. We were a growing country. We were prospering. We had survived World War I not only unscathed on land but victors and leaders of the world culture. The Best Dressed List was the fashion industry’s mantra.

Inaugural Best Dressed List (1940): Mrs. Harrison Williams Mrs. Ronald Balcom (Millicent Rogers) Mrs. Thomas Shevlin Mrs. Ryron C. Foy Countess Haugwitz-Reventlow (Barbara Hutton) Mrs. William Paley Mrs. Howard Linn Gladys Swarthout Ina Claire Mrs. Gilbert Miller Mrs. Lawrence Tibbett Lynn Fontaine Ms. S. Kent Legare Mrs. Harold Talbot Mrs. William Rhinelander Stewart Cole Porter paid the ulti-

mate tribute to the original concept in a commentary in song he wrote for Ethel Merman called, “Ridin’ High” from the Broadway show Red, Hot and Blue: What do I care if Mrs. Harrison Williams Is the Best Dressed woman in town. What do I care if Countess Barbara Hutton Has a Rolls Royce built for each gown… The brilliance of the List was that it included names that were familiar the general

public. Ina Claire was one of the most famous leading ladies of the American stage. Gladys Swarthout was a popular mezzosoprano with the Metropolitan Opera as well as a frequent guest on radio shows. Lynn Fontaine was a distinguished stage and film actress always billed with her husband, Alfred Lunt—they were always referred to as “The Lunts.” Barbara Hutton was the original Poor Little Rich Girl who was 28 at the time and considered one of the richest women in the world. Mrs. Harrison Williams (Mona) was married to one of the richest men in America. Mrs. Lawrence Tibbett (Jane) was married to an opera star who was famous in

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PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A the movies and on the radio. Millicent Rogers Balcom was a Standard Oil heiress, and Mrs. William Rhinelander Stewart (Janet) was known as “the most beautiful woman in New York.” Mrs. Gilbert Miller (Kitty) was the very rich daughter of financier Jules Bache, married to the British/ American stage producer who had his own theater on Broadway. Mrs. Byron Foy (Thelma) was the daughter of Walter Chrysler, the automotive magnate and builder of the Chrysler Building. Mrs. William Paley (Dorothy) was the glamorous wife of CBS president as well as an art collector and an early supporter and board member of the New School.

Mrs. Harold Talbot (Margaret) was the daughter of a Philadelphia socialite married to a Dayton, Ohio, banker and businessman (who later served in President Dwight Eisenhower’s administration). Mrs. Howard Linn, born Lucy McCormick Blair, was a leading Chicago socialite who later left a vast wardrobe to the Chicago History Museum, including couture made by Chanel, Vionnet, Lanvin, Balenciaga, and Dior. Mrs. Thomas Shevlin (Lorraine) was an heiress from Pasadena who would end up married to Senator John Sherman Cooper. And Mrs. S. Kent Legare was a Washington socialite married to a scion of a meatpacking fortune.

All of these women were well known in their communities if not throughout the world. They were wealthy, social, and prominent among the prominent. There was also at that time an “agreed upon” way of dress for every American, no matter the economic class. The film studios, the factories—everyone went to work in the same uniform. Hats, gloves, and suits, with men in jackets and ties at all times. These ladies of the first Best Dressed List were, in a way, saying to the American girl, “This could be you.” It was an idea to build a dream on. That was how things were marketed to the American people 70 years ago.

The List started out with 15 women. In a short time, it began to expand. A couple of years later, Mrs. Stanley Mortimer (née Barbara “Babe” Cushing) was chosen for the List. She remained on the List for the next several years, no matter who came and went. Eventually, in order to keep her and Mona Williams while making way for new names, the “Hall of Fame” was created for them. By the 1960s, the List was expanded to include men who were considered “best dressed” as well as a list of “best dressed” professionals (both women and men). For the first couple of decades, the List was eagerly followed by the public in

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much the same way people today follow celebrities (the Kardashians, for example) and their clothes. As it grew, its influence subsided. But Eleanor’s idea became a staple. Today, it’s a laundry list of all kinds of types—mainly actors, actresses, entertainers, and various celebrities. Many times, when I see an individual on the List—alongside a photo of him or her looking adequately dressed if not remarkably—I’m reminded of all the photos I’ve seen of the same individual looking like a slob in public. Which is, incidentally, his or her right. “Best Dressed” used to promote the idea of being well dressed, well organized, and well presented all the time. Now, we live in a society with a substantial percentage of whom wear their pajamas 24/7, or whenever they can. Never-

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theless, Eleanor’s job was done; the Fashion Industry was reinvented and remains a powerful force both economically and socially to this day. August delivered the Dog Days of Summer. Hot and humid with some rainfall in between. I was sitting in Michael’s one midday, having a business lunch when a lot of sirens went off in the room. That was weird; never heard that before. It turned out to be the cellphones of several customers: Flash Flood Warning. You can get them on your phone. Meanwhile, West 55th Street was being pelted, but no floods. It was over by 3 p.m. although the clouds remained dark until late afternoon. But then it cooled off, down to the 70s to give us some relief. The Hamptons had fairer weather and sometimes it seemed like everyone was out—all the time. They were seen at var-

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A ious events, all fund-raisers or even pre-fund-raisers. On a Friday evening, early in July, Anne Hearst and Jay McInerney, Princess Yasmin Aga Khan, and Daryl Simon hosted a kick-off party on the lawn of Ashgrove Farm in Water Mill for the upcoming annual Alzheimer’s Association’s Rita Hayworth Gala (which will be held on October 27 at Cipriani 42nd Street). Yasmin started this annual gala more than 30 years ago in memory of her mother, who was an early victim of the tragic disease. She has always been assisted by her friends, many of whom have been with her from the beginning. All of them have been very effective

in terms of involving more volunteers who really work to make it one of the best parties of the autumn season, bringing in more millions in donations for the cause. There were two other major events that weekend. The first and the oldest being the Southampton Hospital’s 57th Annual Summer Party, which was held in the gala tents on Wickapogue Road. This year’s was themed “Fantasia” and it benefitted The Jenny and John Paulson Emergency Department. Jean Remmel FitzSimmons was benefit chair. Over in Sag Harbor, there was the “Paddle and Party for Pink” to benefit the Breast Cancer Research Foundation

(BCRF). Like all BCRF events, be they beach or ballroom, this was in technicolor! Participants picked pink paddleboards for the themed race and fête in the Hamptons. The two-pronged event started with a standup paddleboard race at Haven Beach at 7 a.m. (Compensation for the early start was a total lack of traffic at that hour.) More than 200 people competed in three- or six-mile heats with renowned paddleboard proponent Laird Hamilton present to pass out pointers and awards. Winners and runners up were awarded bronze, silver, and gold medals and mini-paddleboard trophies for the Breast Cancer

Research Fund, which was established four years ago by survivor Maria Baum. After the awards, people reassembled at Fairview on Mecox Bay for the evening’s Sunset Cocktail Party. Gwyneth Paltrow and Lena Dunham greeted the crowd on behalf of their friend Maria while guests bid on designer paddleboards, watched dramatic Hawaiian fire dancers, listened to cancer survivor and Grammy Award– winner Nile Rodgers, and danced to a music set by DJ Brendan Fallis. The New York Center for Children (NYCC) hosted The Sunflower Party on another Friday at the home of Henry Buhl in Southampton. Henry,

“ FA N TA S I A” B E N E F I T E D T H E S O U T H A M P TO N H O S P I TA L

Peter and Jamee Gregory 36 QUEST

Jean FitzSimmons and Howard Lorber

Ellen and Chuck Scarborough

Elizabeth Shafiroff

Jean Shafiroff and Alex Donner

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

Robert Chaloner, Julie Ratner and Sam Eskenazi

LOOT:

MAD AbOuT JeweLry

The Museum of Arts and Design’s annual pop-up exhibition and sale of contemporary artist-made jewelry. September 28: 4:30pm: Opening benefit evening with First Access to the exhibition and Sale 8:00pm: Opening benefit Dinner

JerOme AnD SimOnA chAzen builDing 2 cOlumbuS circle, nYc mADmuSeum.Org

September 29—OctOber 3, 2015: exhibition and Sale continues

Opening beneFit Dinner

honoring

bArbArA tOber and

VAcherOn cOnStAntin September 28, 2015

over 50 of the world’s most innovative studio and art jewelers

For Opening benefit, Dinner tickets and information on the exhibition and Sale, visit mADmuSeum.Org/lOOt or call 212.299.7 712.

works by: ute Decker, Anastasia Su & martin lesjak, nikki couppee and Yu hiraishi

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A AU D R E Y G R U S S T H R E W A W H I T E G A R D E N PA R T Y AT FA I R W I N D I N S O U T H A M P TO N TO B E N E F I T H O P E FO R D E P R E S S I O N R E S E A R C H FO U N D AT I O N

Dana Hammond Stubgen and Lise Evans

incidentally, is a longtime aficionado of the sunflower. He has a whole field of them next door to his house. His house’s interior contains a plethora of sunflower images in one form or another. Henry has a very practical side and the sunflower is nothing if not practical in many ways: It grows very easily in sandy soil with lots of direct sunlight. They can grow very tall, even 12 to 14 feet in height. And they’re charming and bright and sunny, and practically indestructible. That’s also a good description of children who are cared for, nurtured, and supervised in a harmonious atmosphere. There was a silent auction 38 QUEST

Mai Hallingby Harrison and Christine Bernstein

Mariana Kaufman

as well as cocktails and hors d’oeuvres. It was a beautiful evening, and so it was outside. There was a band led by Alfredo Merat, plus serenading by one of the guests: Metropolitan Opera soprano Alyson Cambridge, who gave a rendition of George Gershwin and DuBose Hayward’s “Summertime.” On the following day, Audrey Gruss hosted a White Tea Garden Party at her Southampton home for 30 of her friends to kick off her upcoming Hope For Depression Research Foundation’s Fall Luncheon, which will take place on November 10 at 583 Park Avenue.

Clelia Zacharias

Serena Boardman and Carol Mack

Guests were invited to wear their brightest whites. Classic tea sandwiches were passed around. There were white linen–covered tables laden with pastel-colored pastries in the pool house. The grounds of Fairwind, the Gruss property, featured a white cutting garden, blooming white hydrangeas, a white and green woodland garden, and a swimming pool surrounded by white dogwood trees, as well as an apple orchard and a white birch allée. Among the ladies in white on a beautiful, warm Southampton afternoon were: Serena Boardman, Karen LeFrak, Margo Nederland-

er, Louise Blouin, Kim Heirston, Susan Mortimer, Mai Hallingby Harrison, Carol Mack, Lise Evans, Dana Hammond Stubgen, and Francesca Stanfill Nye. On a Sunday evening. Every year, top culinary artists come together for the Annual Great Chefs Dinner, held at the Hayground School in Bridgehampton. First organized in 2003, the event is the major fund-raiser for the school’s Jeff’s Kitchen and the Jeff Salaway Scholarship Fund. Jeff’s Kitchen was named after Jeff Salaway. He and his wife, Toni Ross, were the school’s co-founders. This year, at the 11th An-

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

Karen LeFrak and Audrey Gruss

GREAT HOMES DON’T FIND THEMSELVES.

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A S AV E T H E C H I L D R E N R A I S E D F U N D S AT T H E M E A D O W B R O O K C L U B

Trudy and Tom Calabrese

nual Great Chefs Dinner, chef Jonathan Waxman was honored. Among those who came out to lend a hand were: Barry Sonnenfeld, Eric Ripert, Sarah Jessica Parker, Matthew Broderick, Ron Rifkin, Brenda Siemer, and Stuart Match Suna. There was a special musical performance by Sarah Jessica Parker and Peter Duchin during the intimate dinner. The dinner raised money both to support the culinary and garden program as well as for scholarships. To date, almost $1 million has been raised to support the Jeff’s Kitchen’s programs and the school, which runs a culinary arts curriculum. In addition to traditional schoolwork, students plant and tend their own garden, selling the fruits of their labor every Friday at an 40 QUEST

Alexandra and Brian Whelehan

Barbara and Chris Callahan

onsite farmers market. Among those attending were: Jane Krakowski, Matt Lauer, Jason Sehorn, Hilary Rhoda, Sean Avery, Molly Sims, Nicole Miller, Lisa and Richard Perry, Lisa and Harry Slatkin, Christina Steinbrenner, and Darcy Miller. More than $1.6 million was raised and a pink-tinged sunset was the ultimate pinnacle of a picture perfect evening. On Saturday mid-month, out in East Hampton at the library, they were holding their annual Author’s Night—a night of book signings. This is an annual event, and East Enders have the distinct advantage of having lots of artists and writers in the general neighborhood, so it is a community event. This sort of event—casual, writers, artists, readers, collec-

Stephanie Howard, Kathy DiMaio and Robin Vermylen

Frank Gunderson, Christie Robinson and Peter Blohm

tors, fans, readers—is quintessential Hamptons in my memory. I first went out there with three other people in 1962, as a recent ex-teenager who was now grown up. I rented a house in the middle of a potato field in Southampton. Four bedrooms, two kitchens—one up and one down—and all for $1,200 for the entire season. The Hamptons were just beginning to attract young singles of Manhattan. Very cool discotheques were sprouting up (L’Oursin, Mitty’s General Store, etc.). Beautiful beaches. Lots of barbecue parties. Main Street in Southampton on a Saturday afternoon was nothing but empty parking spaces. Day-trippers didn’t exist. Farther East were more of those potato fields and small towns, which are still small but were then quiet small. They were

Kiki Nesi and Abby Sheeline

occupied by farmers and yearround working people as well as artists and writers. The artists and writers took to it because it was beautiful, it was quiet, and cheap. What we now call undeveloped. Many of the great art collections and museums of the world now possess many works created out there at that time. There had always been a society aspect to the real estate in the Hamptons from the end of the 19th century. But those inhabitants went there to get away from it all. It was the anti-Newport, but same difference. The roads were two-lane blacktop. The Long Island Expressway was still decades away. The ride from Southampton to East Hampton on a summer weekend afternoon was 10 or 15 minutes with nary

A B BY S H E E L I N E

Tim and Lisa Broadbent with Dave and Maggie Viklund

Presented by Shen Yun Promotions International

MUSIC FROM 5,000 YEARS OF CIVILIZATION EXQUISITE CHINESE INSTRUMENTS in a grand Western orchestra. Shen Yun Symphony Orchestra blends Eastern and Western musical traditions in a concert experience unlike any other. Majestic movements convey tales of divine beings descending to Earth. Lilting notes evoke the elegance of ladies at imperial court. Traditional dance rhythms from Tibetan plateaus reverberate through the concert hall. Shen Yun performs soul-stirring original works, with solos by the world’s top Chinese tenors and sopranos. Concert highlights also include Western masterpieces by Tchaikovsky, Rimsky-Korsakov, Sarasate and more.

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Stern Auditorium/Perelman Stage at

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A a car on the road. The Authors night on Maidstone Lane is the premier literary event of the Hamptons, and one of the nation’s leading annual literary celebrations. There were more than 2,000 guests packing the tent to meet and mingle with the authors. They were there to meet and to buy their books, and to have their own personal copies signed. Later, there were two-dozen private dinner parties, each featuring one or more of the guest authors. Each hosted 600 dinner guests after the benefit. All proceeds benefited the East Hampton Library. Also on the same Saturday night, the New York Society

for the Prevention of Cruelty to Children (NYSPCC) held a cocktail party at Space Sixteen in Southampton. The event celebrated the NYSPCC’s 140 years of protecting and healing children and families from trauma, abuse, and neglect. NYSPCC board member, Penny Grant, M.D., hosted the early-evening cocktail party and shopping event. A portion of the evening’s sales was donated to the NYSPCC. The NYSPCC, founded in 1875, is the first and one of the most highly respected child protection agencies in the world. The NYSPCC responds to the complex needs of abused and neglected children—and those involved in

their care—by providing the best practice counseling, legal, and educational services. Through research, communications, and training initiatives, we work to expand these programs to prevent abuse and help more children heal. The NYSPCC’s unique work is used as a model for child welfare agencies across the nation. Since its founding, the NYSPCC has investigated more than 650,000 cases on the behalf of over 2 million children, and has educated over 50,000 professionals on how to identify and report abuse and neglect. Meanwhile, more out East. On another Friday night, the Museum at Guild

Hall presented its summer gala with host April Gornik. This year, the event celebrated the current exhibition, “Roy Lichtenstein: Between Sea and Sky” (curated by Christina Strassfield). Earlier that day, there was the annual Artists and Writers Charity Softball game. With a dress code of sneakers, T-shirts, and ball caps, this spectacle has evolved from a backyard pick-up game in 1948 to a fierce fight to the finish that gets bigger and better every year with more and more celebrities clamoring to participate. Where else can you find world-renowned painters, sculptors, best-selling authors, newspaper publishers, actors,

D O U G L A S E L L I M A N I N T R O D U C E D T H E S U M M E R I S S U E O F E L E VAT E AT T H E STA N D A R D H OT E L

Ioannis Pappos and Alex Martucci 42 QUEST

Keith Kelly

Rebecca Hardiman

Jim Long

Ian Browne and Leslie Russo

Susan Gates and Kathleen Gates

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

George Wayne and Fern Mallis

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A ANIMAL RE SCUE FUND OF THE HAMPTONS “BOW WOW MEOW BALL” IN WAINSCOTT

Kari Tiedeman and Michael Steinberg

actresses, politicians, and media mavens running around bases on a softball field in the middle of one of the most historic and picturesque villages in America? Past participants in the game have included President Bill Clinton, Supreme Court Justice Stephen Breyer, Alec Baldwin, Dustin Hoffman, Christie Brinkley, Paul Simon, Jackson Pollock, George Plimpton, Chevy Chase, and Kurt Vonnegut— just to name just a few. The crowds started arriving before noon with their coolers and beach chairs to watch “batting practice,” get autographs, take pictures, and give the players some advice. The Choral Society of the Hamptons, 30+ strong, sang the National Anthem. That Saturday night out in Wainscott, the Animal Rescue Fund (ARF) was hosting its annual Bow Wow and 44 QUEST

Lisa McCarthy with Moe

Tom and Heather Leeds

Meow Gala with more than 400 attending. That’s a good number for any fund-raiser anywhere, including Manhattan. That’s real support. And they raised more than $700,000. It was their most successful event in the 41 years of the organization. They honored Peter Marino, the tycoon of architect/interior designers—in the world. If you don’t know who he is, you know his buildings and have probably been in them many times. His designs are of-the-moment contemporary. His costume, which he adapted publicly severally years ago and wears where e’er he goes, is the of-the-moment contemporary for him. He’s a very friendly fellow, in a neighborly way: a major culture aficionado with his wife Jane Trapnell. They have long been famous for their concert and dinners in their East 57th Street aerie over

Lionel Larner, Julie Auchincloss and Denis Brunelle

Peter Duchin with Virginia and John Coleman

near Sutton Place. To demonstrate his gratitude for the honor, he adopted two kitties from ARF named Spider and Ferret. He has also underwritten dog runs at the shelter. It was a beautiful summer night out there. Peter Duchin provided the music for the background and the dance. Brooke Shields was emcee, and told the crowd that she had hurt her foot giving a treat to her adopted pup. The glam and summery décor was provided by those impresarios of taste and celebration, David Monn and Alex Papachristidis. All of this under a big, open tent on the grounds of ARF. ARF, if you didn’t know, is the leading animal adoption center on the East End of Long Island. I am pro-adoption and have always adopted my dogs and cats. Right now there are two in residence with me, although last year

Brooke Shields and George Farias

Estrellita Brodsky and Christina MacDonald

at this time there were four. Soon there will be a third and maybe a fourth, depending. I’ve had animals all my life although, when I was in my 20s, I forsook them. These creatures give us the opportunity to feel affection for another. Their gift to us is their acceptance and trust of us. This is a great honor in life for all of us. These animals, especially those who are conscious of needing a good home and shelter, have that power to bless us with our humanity. Many of them endure all kinds of stupidity and madness, not unlike what I encountered on the streets the other day. ARF is a haven. You can provide that haven too. It’s heavenly for everyone. Notable guests included: Brooke Shields and Chris Henchy, Peter Marino and Jane Trapnell, Lisa and Brian McCarthy, Priscilla and

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

Peter Marino, Bill and Kathy Rayner and Jorie Kent

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Christopher Whittle, Raphael DeNiro, Barbara Slifka, Alex Papachristidis, David Monn, Bill and Ophelia Rudin, Tommy and Heather Leeds, Bettina Zilkha, Alison Mazzola, Carol and Bill Dollard, Carol Mack, Debbie and John Loeffler, Pam and Peter Fabricant, Gordon Hoppe and Michael Breault, Virginia Coleman, and dancers from the New York City Ballet. Meanwhile, for a little something bright and beautiful and non-Hamptons, on a sunny afternoon out at Lake Tahoe, Saks Fifth Avenue and The League to Save Lake Tahoe welcomed Peter Copping to present Oscar de la Renta’s Resort 2016 collection at the league’s annual lunch and fashion show. It’s a beautiful show for starters because of the spectacular location and the bright California light that shows the Oscar fashion line at its quintessential. About 600 guests attended the event, which was held at the Schumacher estate on the North Shore of Lake Tahoe. This is the 46th year for this luncheon,

which was started back in the late 1960s when Bill Blass showed his collection to a few loyal clients and friends at Lake Tahoe. It has evolved since then into the widely anticipated fundraiser for the League to Save Lake Tahoe. Chairs for this year’s were Barbara Brown, Edith Tobin, Jessica Hickingbotham, Heidi Cary, and Hillary Marble. This is Peter Copping’s inaugural year attending the show, and in the capacity of creative director of Oscar de la Renta. The occasion included the sit-down luncheon, a full-scale fashion show of the Resort 2016 collection, a live auction, and a backstage shopping opportunity after the show. The other side of the coin, the news that you’re willing to read (especially if it doesn’t involve you): Ashley Madison. Sounds like a name you might see under a photo on a Quest party picture, no? No. I never heard of her (or it) until some Internet hackers decided to tell the world. Thirty-two million men were visiting the site and leaving all kinds of sexual

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Talia Shire 00 QUEST

Jonathan Rice and Jenny Lewis

Meryl Streep

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A messages to their would-be/ could-be/wannabe partners, revealing stuff that people always keep in the home and with their mouths shut. “A catastrophic leak at adultery website Ashley Madison spewed electronic evidence of infidelity across the Internet,” was how one of the reports described it. The first thing that came to mind was a capsulized version of the typical marital discussion that began on learning the news. If, indeed, they’d heard the news yet. In a way it’s funny. Yes, these guys and girls are getting what they “deserve” (fooling around on their spouses— naughty, naughty). Stories of marital infidelity used to make columns like New York Social Diary a must read. Dishing the dirt. But they were fun.

They’re not around anymore. Oh yes, they’re still getting divorced and having affairs, but it all sounds like a yawn, and the stories sound like sitcoms without the laughs. Well, it’s smorgasbord that’s serving us now. And, frankly, I think we’re all sated enough, bloated and looking for our Bromo-Seltzer to quiet our rumbling stomachs. But that doesn’t mean it’s time to stop. In fact, now all the cats are out of all the bags and a sex video will get you a multimillion-dollar income in the business of “reality.” The race is on. What will stop it? Maybe a train wreck? Ashley Madison is not really shocking because it’s just about the oldest story in the book, along with the “oldest profession.” And there is

something funny about people getting caught with their pants down, even if it’s figuratively. But this is what we’ve done to ourselves with our technology: We’ve altered our social behavior to accommodate our libidos publicly. And all through the auspices of the Internet, the greatest purveyor of sexual (and just about any other) fantasy in the history of civilization. Our children, of course, have their own web sites. (Tinder comes to mind right now, but there are lots of them.) They are basically sex pick-up sites. And when I say “children,” I’m referring to all ages quite seriously. I read an article recently where a young woman talked about the drawbacks of Tinder. While she liked

the access to “getting laid” at the drop of a send button, she acknowledged that sometimes a partner and she would have a brief connection that left her wishing they could have pursued it for a “real” relationship. The problem is, this is what a real relationship is coming to for many, many millions with their cell phones and their apps. And poor mugged Ashley Madison. Stripped bare, as she was. The other real problem arising from these stimulations is, again, the results of the social behavior. I’m not talking about manners, although they are an imperative element in all social behavior no matter where you are. I’m talking about living together in communities. This is crucial. u

H AV I L A N D H O L L O W C H A R I T Y C U P I N PAT T E R S O N , N E W YO R K

Kevin Hamilton and Christophe Landon

Doreen Hamilton, Caroline D’Agostino, Victoria Hamilton and Kevin Hamilton 48 QUEST

Emily Wagenheim with Jax

A pig roast for pulled-pork sandwiches

Dan Tomita, Will Tomita, Marina Wambold and Monica Wambold

Children fanning themselves in style

S A R A H CO R B I N

Sam Ramirez and Georgina Bloomberg

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Walking the runway

Modeling a look 50 QUEST

Kate Davidson Hudson with Eva

Ralph Lauren

Rachel Zoe, Diane Kruger, David Lauren and India Hicks

Agan Singh with Satya

Veronica Miele Beard

Striking a pose

Strutting his stuff

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

Maria Dueñas Jacobs with Luna

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Sotheby’s International Realty and the Sotheby’s International Realty logo are registered (or unregistered) service marks used with permission. Operated by Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc.

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A C A LVA R Y H O S P I TA L P R E S E N T E D I TS A N N UA L A W A R D S AT T H E P I E R R E H OT E L

John and Ingrid Connolly

Diane and Curtis Arledge

Carlos and Claire Hernandez

Frank Calamari, Susan Waltman and Kenneth Raske

Tom and Diahn McGrath

Michael Lamacchia, Joanne Daguanno and Michael Brescia

“ W O M E N O F V A L O R ” T E A TO B E N E F I T S T . F R A N C I S S H E LT E R S AT T H E W A L D O R F = A S TO R I A

Catherine Neely, Linda Neely and Jennifer Breda 52 QUEST

Louise Matthews and Charlotte Kenny

Dana Schneider

Doug Militzer, Donna Dapice, Madeline Sullivan and Art Thompson

Lou Milo and Francis Gasparik

Bob Wechtenhiser and Ruth Westheimer

M AT T H E WC A R A S E LL A . CO M ( A B OV E ) ; A N N I E WAT T ( B E LO W )

Ernie Anastos, Sharon Bush, Lauren Bush Lauren, Joseph Sano and Tara Troy

SOUTHAMPTON, NY | $37,500,000 | Web: 0056813 11 bedrooms, 12 baths, 3 half baths, 4.6+/- acres, pool, tennis Coopers Neck Lane - A grand 1899 Gilded Age, classic shingled house, set on 4.6 +/- acres on the most exclusive Southampton lane, less than half a mile from the Atlantic Ocean. Steeped in history & built to the highest standards, it has been impeccably restored & completely updated with 21st century systems. 12,000 +/- square feet of exceptional architectural details in perfectly proportioned rooms, the residence has deep covered porches throughout its three stories.

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Sotheby’s International Realty and the Sotheby’s International Realty logo are registered (or unregistered) service marks used with permission. Operated by Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc.

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A TOA STING THE “ROY LICHTENSTEIN: BET WEEN SEA AND SKY” EXHIBITION AT G U I L D H A L L I N E A ST H A M P TO N

Jack Shear and Jo Carole Lauder

Mary Boone and Max Werner

April Gornik and Bruce Wolosoff 54 QUEST

Anne Marie and Jay Decker

Eden Rafshoon

Dorothy Lichtenstein and Michael Lynn

Hilaria and Alec Baldwin

Florence and Richard Fabricant

Barbara Jo Howard

Daniel and Joan Kron

Kathy Murphy

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

Sarah Cooke

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Dining room, living room, media room/bedroom, master bedroom, guest suite, library, 3 baths, chef’s kitchen. $6.725M. Web #11189669. Susan Shafton 646-613-2729/Melissa Ann Shafton 646-613-2733

Gallery, corner living room with wood-burning fireplace, dining room. 3 bedrooms, 2 baths, kitchen with pantry, 2 maid’s rooms. Full service co-op with hotel services: gym & spa. $5.85M. Web #12696524. Margaret Furniss 917-696-5577

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The Top Doctor Is In by Castle Connolly Top Doctors® Q: I have a labral tear in my shoulder. Do I need surgery?

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A “ M O S T LY M O Z A R T ” H O N O R E D T O M B R O K A W AT L I N C O L N C E N T E R

A: A labral tear is a tear of the labrum in the shoulder, a band of connective tissue that surrounds the socket and is torn usually from overhead trauma such as weightlifting or degenerative wear and tear. The need for surgery depends on the patient. When one suffers a labral tear, the problem is micro-instability. Younger patients who are active, especially with overhead activity, will do much better with an arthroscopic repair. Older patients who do not use their arms for overhead activity should try physical therapy first to see how they do. In some cases, those patients do well temporarily, but then fail after they go back to overhead activity. I have found that older patients that enjoy weightlifting have difficulty living with most labral tears.

David Remnick

Mamie Gummer

Renée and Robert Belfer

The best approach is to see a board certified orthopedic surgeon that sub-specializes in sports medicine and arthroscopic surgery of the shoulder. Spending enough time with the patient to determine the proper diagnosis prior to an imaging test is critical. The surgeon's clinical judgement is by far the most important factor in the final decision for surgery. Tom Brokaw and Michael Bloomberg

Armin Tehrany, M.D. Manhattan Orthopedic Care 515 Madison Ave, Suite 1102 New York NY 10022 212-729-9200 www.mocnyc.com Also in Staten Island Board Certified in Orthopaedic Surgery

Top Doctors Make a Difference www.castleconnolly.com

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PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

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Top Doctors Make a Difference

Castle Connolly Healthcare Solutions for all of your healthcare issues Healthcare Solutions is a service that assists busy executives and their loved ones in navigating the complex world of healthcare. This service takes the guess work out of your healthcare decision-making process. The Castle Connolly Healthcare Solutions professional staff can help you navigate through the healthcare system with less stress, faster service and better outcomes - with access 24/7/365. This personal and sophisticated service provides comprehensive and confidential support for all of your healthcare needs, such as: • Understanding the diagnosis of a serious illness • Helping you to prepare for a conversation with your doctor • Identification of the best resources to deal with a complex medical problem • Access to Top Doctors and hospitals on a national and global scale • Identification of non-physician providers such as Dieticians, Therapists and Eldercare providers Castle Connolly publishes the books America’s Top Doctors® and America’s Top Doctors for Cancer and partners with nearly 40 regional magazines nationwide. To search the entire listing of more than 44,000 Top Doctors across the country, visit www.castleconnolly.com, where consumers like you view more than 34 million doctor proﬁles each year. For more information on Castle Connolly Medical Ltd., visit www.castleconnolly.com.

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Laurel Hollow, NY SD #2. MLS# 2735177. $3,800,000. Anne E. Kerr, 516.676.2230 ext.27 Kimberly G. Bancroft, 516.676.2230 ext.42

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Syosset, NY – “Overfields” SD #2. MLS# 2769911. $6,500,000. Patrick H. Mackay, 516.676.2230 ext.24 Sara Maragos, 516.676.2230 ext.28 Anne E. Kerr, 516.676.2230 ext.27 Kimberly G. Bancroft, 516.676.2230 ext.42

Upper Brookville, NY SD #6. MLS# 2762972. $1,449,000. Kathryn (Cottie) Maxwell Pournaras, 516.759.4800 ext.131, c.516.857.3011

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This spread: Yves Saint Laurent in 1993, with Kate Moss and other models wearing his summer collection; Saint Laurent with longtime partner, Pierre BergĂŠ (inset).

62 QUEST

H A R RY B E N S O N

IT SEEMS LIKE YESTERDAY “HE’S COMING. YES, he’s coming,” Pierre Bergé reassured. The 1993 summer collection of Yves Saint Laurent was about to begin. Over the years, I had photographed St. Laurent many times for French Vogue. Like most of the French couturiers I had met, he was always most obliging, but no one knew for sure if he would show up. Everyone knew Saint Laurent had been unwell, and there was talk that he would not appear to close the show. We had heard he was confined to his bed. Speculation and excitement was rampant. All this was happening while the models backstage were preparing to face a packed house of expectant fans, editors, buyers, and celebrities. The show started without him. I was still backstage photographing the models as they went out one by one. All of a sudden, Saint Laurent is standing next to me. He arrived quietly, without fanfare, wearing a magnificent double-breasted white suit and black tie. Seemingly more relaxed than in earlier years, he had a broad smile on his face. His longtime friend and companion, Bergé, was by his side. They were whispering to each other and seemed happy. Yet I could see Saint Laurent, still considered one of the greatest couturier of all time, was not his usual frenetic, energetic self. He seemed pleased to be there, more an observer than a participant. At the end of the show, as all the models made their last turn, Saint Laurent stepped out and led them off to rousing cheers. It was certainly a memorable day, one of the great designer’s last appearances on the runway. And I’m glad I was there. ◆ SEPTEMBER 2015 63

TA K I

THE VIRTUES OF A HARD HEAD

courtesy ofprinceton communications records

Be that as it may, a Federal District SEPTEMBER MEANS football, in high encephalopathy, or C.T.E. Nocera means school, prep school, and, of course, well but he’s wrong. Let’s take it from Judge approved a settlement of the where it all began, in college. There is the top: One of the reasons ex-stars like lawsuit: 1 billion smackers or so in the nothing that evokes the era of F. Scott Frank Gifford were articulate until the hands of former players who are sufFitzgerald more than a crisp autumn end was that, back in the good old days, fering from dementia and other brain Saturday afternoon, a marching band, people tackled—they didn’t spear with diseases. Some 200 veterans, however, a campus full of beautiful co-eds, and their helmet. Tackling is hard to do. I have opted out and hope to bring stands full of rowdy Joe Colleges root- remember my first day at Lawrenceville their own lawsuits against the league. ing for their alma mater. And then, of lower school football, the coach ordered (Ambulance-chasing lawyers are having course, there are also Sunday afternoons, us to tackle hard but low. That was 65 a field day.) Now, it’s hard for anyone when the big boys take over. I used to years ago, I admit, but the game was without a heart of stone to root for the league against the playlove pro football when peoers, and I’m not. (My heart is ple like the recently deceased extremely soft and has been Frank Gifford, Kyle Rote, broken so many times by the Sam Huff, and “Broadway” fairer sex. There is no way I’d Joe Namath played it. No choose those fat little men longer. Somewhere along the who never played football in way the game changed from their teens, but after screwing a sport to a combat one, with their fellow man and becomgorilla-like behemoths standing billionaires, now own ing over a fallen opponent and football teams. The Mara pumping their chests. Those family excepted.) golden afternoons on Yale And yet. Smokers who Bowl, with student athletes have repeatedly been warned tackling low—even helping against the habit and get canan opponent stand up after a cer are prone to sue, as are tackle—are long gone. Along people who drink. I do both with sportsmanship. and if the big C gets me the Never mind. Sport follows last thing I will do is sue life and life has become bruthe tobacco companies and tal, money-minded, and manthose who make liquor. I’m a ner-less. Why should sport grown up, after all (although be any different? In fact, there are those who dispute sport reflects life, as does the fact). The NFL is not liaHollywood, with its car chasble for the athletes who have es and violence. Those who contacted C.T.E. Football is should know better are just a rough sport, and athletes as bad. Buffalo Bills coach This page: Elizabeth “Lisa” Halaby, future Queen Noor of Jordan, go in it with their eyes open. Rex Ryan claims a brute by at a Princeton football game in 1969. Opposite page: New York Giants If the league is liable, then the name of IK Enemkpali halfback Frank Gifford, September 9, 1958. Uncle Sam is too, for the the day after he was let go by the Jets for sucker punching a team- invented as a sport, not a spearing contest nearly one million soldiers and tens of mate in the locker room and breaking of whose brain will explode first, the millions who have been injured since his jaw. Instead of being banned for spearer or the speared, as happens to be the inception of the Republic. I suffer from terrible arthritic pains most of his useless life, the guy will the case today. When the Players’ Union most likely get a raise. Rex Ryan is sues the NFL because it failed to properly from years of judo, karate, and tennis. to leading by example what Bernie investigate, warn, and revise league rules Should I sue the various tournaments Maddof was to honest stock trading. to minimize the risk of concussion, I think that I’ve competed in for my pains? At But again, never mind. Pro football has of the prostitute who cried rape. After the times I can hardly get up in the mornturned into a freak show, with head- check bounced. One of the reasons I quit ing. Should I ring Epstein, Epstein hunters being paid millions to cripple boxing and went into martial arts was that & Goldfarb to sue? What the hell is their opponents. Which brings me to even at 20 and boxing at the University of going on here? Football is not tiddly what a columnist by the name of Joe Virginia with 14-ounce gloves, I could feel winks. As Confucius said, “He who lightheaded for days after a match. I have tackles with head first, has his brains Nocera calls “the real NFL scandal.” It’s about the league’s refusal to pay yet to hear of a boxer who sued because scrambled.” u out billions to concussed ex-players he became punch drunk, which most For more Taki, visit takimag.com. who eventually suffer chronic traumatic boxers end up being. SEPTEMBER 2015 65

LI F OFO ES DT& Y LLEI F&ESTY F OOD LE

HEIRLOOM TOMATO PIE YOU’RE DISCERNING, worldly, stylish, and savvy. You get it. You know that late August and September are the ultimate season for tomatoes, and even though you’re accustomed to seeLL STRY SHE E-BAKED PA PR A : ing them all year long, you—the connoisseur—wouldn’t dream E É IS BR BASIC PÂTE ate, and a perlic de t ye of serving them any other time. To paraphrase Mr. Wilde, your ch ri dard crust. It’s ake, and m to sy This is my stan tastes are simple. You are always satisfied with the best. ea ’s It . y “tart” recipe , and then en oz fr The glory of this scrumptious, gorgeous pie lies in its versatilior fect base for an ed at er ead and refrig for a 9x13– y tit an ty. Make it ahead and serve it warm or cold. Mix the varieties of qu may be done ah t ac ex ed. This is the tarts— ng ki tomatoes if you’re not stuck on heirlooms: cherries with grapes ba r used when need fo size n—my favorite y time. er ev t us with vine-ripes with yellows with greens with beefsteaks—whatcr ul inch baking pa ccessf olproof for a su fo so al is ever! The tomatoes that provide automatic variety in size, color, ch hi w –inch crust and deliciousness are the heirlooms, which is why I call this Yield: One 9x13 dish what I do, but honestly, there’s simply no way to go wrong urpose flour • 2 cups all-p here. You’ll see what I mean. salt • ½ teaspoon And now a secret: I make pies, quiches, and tarts in rectsugar artered qu d an • ½ teaspoon , angular sheet pans instead of those hard-to-deal-with and ld co , er ons salted butt l awful—at least for me, as I’m a bit of a klutz on the baking oi • 8 tablespo e bl geta ons tasteless ve front—round pie plates. This simple adjustment has trans• 3 tablespo ons ice water formed me into a pro, and I know it will you, too. Just double • 5 tablespo Preparation: e the crust and fillings from any 8- or 9-inch pie recipe and th h it ed w processor fitt od fo a of you’ll have the proper quantities for a 9x13–inch quarter l w til ther un • In the bo gredients toge in e th l sheet pan. Then, when you go to cut your delectable whateval e bs ls the crum metal blade, pu t over-process no o D . ers, use cookie or biscuit cutters for any-size elegant rounds, rm fo coarse crumbs h. ug a knife for squares, or “fingers,” and PRESTO! Just like to be ill e and or the crust w a floured surfac to on t that you’ll transform sheets of savory or sweet pies, quichou to bs in um gether • Pour the cr bring them to to es es, or tarts into sumptuous first courses, magnificent side tim of le coup tough. knead them a e crust will be th or dishes, or decadent passed hors d’oeuvres and desserts. All ad ne -k t over y with a dough. Do no cover it tightl d an ll at the drop of a hat. See how easy that was? ba a to ugh in and let it rest • Roll the do or at er ig I’m going to recommend you make your own mayonfr re e er a Set it in th to 375°F, butt plastic wrap. en ov e naise here because it’s always better—and pie crust, for th at hour. Prehe the dough from e for at least an ov em that matter—but even if not, this dish will still be deliR n. al baking pa rface. Roll it su d 9x13–inch met re cious. Here’s my recipe for Pâte Brisée. Try it because ou fl a and set it on in the prepared it e the refrigerator bl there’s really nothing to it, but if you’re not swayed, go m se as thickness and d bottom so an s de out to ¼–inch ahead and buy a pre-made dough that you can roll out. si e th t essing it agains dough. e th d an Just make sure it’s all natural and made with only butter, baking pan, pr n pa e air between th t rid of any ge to please. And always remember: the better the ingredients rk that there is no fo a with dough all over ake it for B . le ck you start with, the better any dish you make will be. The bu t • Prick the n’ it does comd to make sure ol co it et best recipe in the world? Quality plus tender loving L n. air bubbles an lden brow for. es until it is go lls ut ca in m pe care. That’s one I stand behind 500 percent. u ci 18 re to e 15 tever th

pletely before

filling it with w

D E B O R A H W H I T L A W LLE W E LLY N

BY ALEX HITZ

HEIRLOOM TOMA TO PIE

Alex’s scrumptious Heirloom Tomato Pie (recipe right) is perfected with a crust of his basic Pâte Brisée (recipe left). Above and below: Alex in action as he prepares this tasty September treat.

Yield: 8–10 servings, depending on portion size, from one 9x13–inch baking pan Ingredients: • 1 pre-baked pastr y shell (see recipe for homemade; okay to substitute wi th store-bought) • 2 tablespoons sal ted butter • 1 onion, halved, then sliced thin • 2 teaspoons minc ed garlic • 1 cup homemade mayonnaise • 1 cup fresh basil leaves, firmly packed • 3 sprigs fresh pa rsley • 1 medium shallot, peeled • 1 green onion, wh ole • 1 cup grated Gr uyère cheese, firmly packed • 1 cup grated sharp Cheddar cheese, firml y packed • ½ cup grated Pa rmesan cheese • 2 pounds mixed heirloom tomatoes, cut into ¼–inch thick ness • 1 ½ teaspoon sal t, divided • 1 tablespoon gra ted Parmesan cheese, firmly packed, for top ping • 1 to 1½ tablespo ons coarsely ground black pepper Preparation: • Slice the tomato es into ¼–inch slices and place them on a rack to drain. Sa lt the tomatoes on bo th sides with ¾ teaspoon salt, 1½ teaspoons total. Let the m drain for at least an hour to rem ove the unwanted wa ter . • When the toma toes have finish ed dr aining, preheat the oven to 375°F. In a heavy skillet over a medium high heat, melt the butte r. When the foaming has subsided, add the onions and sauté them for a couple of minutes until they are slightly soft, then add the minced garlic. Continue to sauté the onions and garlic until they are translucent, approximately 10 to 12 minutes. • In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade, combine the homema de mayonnaise, basil leaves, parsley, shallot, and green on ion, and process the m until the mixture is green and smooth, approximately one mi nute. • In a large mixin g bowl, combine th e mayonnaise mixture with the Gr uyère, Cheddar, and Parmesan cheeses. Stir them to mix th oroughly. • Spread the mayo nnaise-and-cheese mi xture evenly over the cooled pastry cru st. • Place the sautée d onions and garlic evenly on top of the mayonnaise mixture, and then ar range the drained tomatoes in a prett y pattern on top. • Sprinkle with 1 tablespo on Parmes an cheese and the coarsely ground black pepper, and ba ke the pie fo r 50 to 60 minutes. • Let the Heirloo m Tomato Pie rest for at least 30 minutes before cutti ng, and serve it warm , room temperature, or cold with ad ditional basil mayo nnaise.

SEPTEMBER 2015 67

QUEST

Fresh Finds BY DA N I E L C A P P E L LO A N D E L I Z A B E T H M E I G H E R

SEPTEMBER BRINGS US back to school—and back to high fashion. With

Fashion Week descending on the city, we’re reminded that hemlines and heels look best when high, even for the hard-at-work. To welcome the whispers of early fall, we’ve selected some bold new styles and accessories to help transition you from summer whites to autumnal tweeds. Guys, take heart: there’s also a pair of football leather—yes, real football leather—shoes. Modern fashion has a name, and it’s Preen by Thornton Bregazzi: Jacqueline top ($5,090 at alothman-fashion.com) and Deaton trousers ($1,268 at lanecrawford.com).

Give her the royal treatment with Fabergé’s Palais Tsarskoye Selo Diamond Rose Pendant in Every leg

pink gold with

looks longer

white diamonds and

and more

guilloché enamel. $12,415.

Stuart Weitzman’s

Fabergé: 694 Madison Ave.,

Streamer heel in platinum noir. $445. Stuart Weitzman: 625 Madison Ave., 212.750.2555. Stun and dazzle them in Marina B’s Ageco earrings in yellow gold with diamonds, peridot, blue topaz, amethyst, pink tourmaline, and citrine. $25,000. Marina B: 30 East 57th St., 212.644.1155. 68 QUEST

Say hello to the Saya clutch by Oscar de la Renta in peridot embroidered satin. $1,850. Oscar de la Renta: At oscardelarenta.com.

opalescent pink

streamlined in

646.559.8848.

Fresh Finds You’ll gladly let a serpent slither around your neck when it’s Bulgari’s Serpenti necklace in 18-kt. pink gold and diamonds. $58,000 at BVLGARI stores nationwide, 800.BVLGARI, or bulgari.com.

Clean edges, a discreet logo, and timeless drawstring tassels come together in Longchamp’s perfectly contemporary Pénélope handbag. $855. Longchamp: At Longchamp boutiques Be an original

nationwide and

in Hunter’s Original

longchamp.com.

Tour tartan-print, neoprene boot in lava red and umber.

As temperatures cool,

$215. Hunter: At

reach for E. Guigal Crozes-

us.hunterboots.com.

Hermitage 2011, a textbook Syrah with hints of smoky dark berries, violet, licorice, and a peppery note for kick. $13.95 at Sherry-Lehmann: 505 Park Ave. or sherry-lehmann.com.

Plum perfect: Dennis Basso’s Charm her with Cartier’s Amulette de Cartier ring in 18-kt. rose gold, pink opal, and diamond. $2,840. Cartier: At Cartier boutiques nationwide, 800.CARTIER, or cartier.us.

plum and gold embroidered dress ($5,500) and plum mink with chincilla short-sleeve coat ($25,000). Dennis Basso: 825 Madison Ave., 212.794.4500. Scully & Scully has only the best when it comes to home goods, including Baccarat’s iconic Harcourt red knob crystal glasses with seven flat-cut panels. $295 per glass at Scully & Scully: 504 Park Ave., 212.755.2590.

70 QUEST

TELEVISION

“We are to the universe only as much as we give to it” -Meera Gandhi

Buy your tickets now 6.30PM, October 8TH 2015 The Carlyle Hotel, NYC Red-carpet Screening, Cocktails and Black Tie Dinner Tickets $750 To purchase, please go to www.501auctions.com/thegivingbackfoundation The Giving Back Foundation is a 501(c)(3)registered US tax-exempt entity to find out more please visit www.thegivingbackfoundation.net

Fresh Finds

Treat the family to a getaway at America’s finest family plantation, Pine Creek Sporting Club, offering quail, pheasant, and dove hunting on private ranch compounds. For more, call 561.346.9365. Ghurka’s Collection Explorer No. 239 in rifleman’s green is perfect for long-haul trips or everyday use. $1,095. Ghurka: 781 Fifth Ave., 212.826.8300, or ghurka.com.

Autumn calls for orange, especially Ascot Chang’s burnt orange cashmere-wool flannel jacket with gray windowpane ($2,950; bespoke). For more information, visit ascotchang.com.

A treasure for youself—and to pass down for generations: David Yurman’s Heirloom cuff bracelet in 18-kt. gold. $7,900. David Yurman: 712 Madison Ave., 212.752.4255, or davidyurman.com. Dress for fall like the master, Ralph Lauren: sage tweed down-filled jacket ($2,995), Fair Isle cashmere sweater ($1,495), and gray flannel cargo pant ($795). At select Ralph Lauren stores and ralphlauren.com. Take the dive and commit to Rolex’s 40-mm. Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master in 18-kt. Everose gold featuring a bidirectional, rotatable bezel with black ceramic insert and Oysterflex strap on gold Oyserlock clasp. $24,950. Visit rolex.com for official retailers.

Are you ready for some football? Stubbs and Wootton debuts a limited-edition Football leather slipper made with real football leather. $600 per pair at stubbsandwootton.com. 72 QUEST

Romantic Stone Country Estate

- Reminiscent of old Europe. Over eight breathtaking acres with towering trees, stone-walled gardens, rolling lawns, spring fed pond and open meadows. Circa 1935 Stone Country House impressively restored. Incredible details, high ceiling, beams, three fireplaces and extensive millwork. Front terrace overlooking the water. Outdoor Porch with Fireplace. Four Bedrooms.Tennis Court. Swimming Pond with Cabana. Cottage. Bank Barn. Top estate area across the street from nature preserve. $2,950,000

On a Clear Day - Incredible distant views from high on Guard Hill. Finely finished rooms with Venetian plaster walls, extensive millwork and exquisite appointments. Impressive Living Room perfect for showcasing art, with vaulted ceiling, art-lighting and wide board Maple floors. Hand-crafted French doors to the terrace and pool, also positioned to take in the view. Five Bedrooms. Gym with Spa Bath. Over four breathtaking acres with Apple orchard and a vegetable garden. Pool. Separate Cottage. $3,450,000

Soho North - Loft living in Bedford. Modern, chic spaces perfect for Stately Stone & Shingle art collections. 1930’s Converted Barn with open floorplan, painted wood paneling, pine floors, soaring 28’ ceiling, corrugated metal, sliding barn doors, exposed beams and buttresses. Dramatic Great Room with stone Fireplace. Country Kitchen with granite and stainless. Private Master Suite with Fireplace. Three additional Bedrooms. Deck with hot tub. Cottage. Nearly three acres with organic vegetable garden, pond and flat lawn. $1,195,000

Glenellen - Beautifully restored Greek Revival built for the Fields family in 1837. Perfectly scaled rooms, incredible millwork, French doors and wide plank floors. Sun-filled 3355 square feet of handsome living space. Rocking chair porch. Five Bedrooms. Rear deck with retractable awning and festive lighting. Beautifully landscaped property with Wisteria Arbor. Level lawns, old stone walls and spectacular gardens. North Salem Schools. $695,000 (914) 234-9234

Old world grace and symmetry. High ceilings, substantial millwork, wide crown moldings, raised paneling, hardwood floors and French doors. Elegant Entrance Hall with graceful curved staircase. Living Room with Fireplace and octagonal Sitting Room. Library. Formal Dining Room. Family Room with Fireplace. Five Bedrooms. Gated drive to four park-like acres with specimen trees, ornamental shrubs, rolling lawns and phenomenal plantings. Pool with Pool House. $2,350,000

The Lake Lifestyle -

A Waccabuc jewel. Charming 1930’s Lakehouse beautifully renovated. Hardwood floors, vaulted ceilings, exposed beams, skylights and built-ins. “L”-shaped Great Room with massive stone fireplace, two seating areas and a Dining Area. Kitchen with leathered granite counters and top-of-the-line appliances. Two Bedrooms. Private bluestone patio. Stands of evergreen, ornamental trees and stonewalls. $495,000

493 BEDFORD CENTER RD, BEDFORD HILLS, NY SPECIALIZING IN THE UNUSUAL FOR OVER 60 YEARS

WWW.GINNEL.COM

Fresh Finds

Patent your look in a white patent Midinette slipper from Belgian Shoes, perfect for packing on trips or for

Sink your heart into Sherle

lightening your city step any day. $350. Belgian

Wagner’s Aqueduct with Molecule

Shoes: 110 E. 55th St., 212.755.7372.

Knob Basin Set, available in multiple finishes, including polished nickel ($2,180). Sherle Wagner: 300 East 62nd St., 212.758.3300.

Your private hideaway: Parrot Cay by COMO in Turks and Caicos is offering for sale four of the resort’s new beach houses along pristine shores, starting at $6.5 million. For more, call 855.727.7682.

You’ll see the silver lining in any situation when wearing Wempe’s 925 sterling Silver Lining bracelet with leather, silver-colored strap. $125. Wempe: 700 Fifth Ave., 212.397.9000. Puiforcat introduces a new tabletop must-have: the Croisette Chopsticks, available in gold or silver plating, sold with matching spoon and rest. $690 for silver plating (shown) Channel the aura

at puiforcat.com.

of another era in Harry Winston’s new Art Deco Diamond Pendant, set in platinum. Price upon request. Harry Winston: Available by calling 800.988.4110 or visiting harrywinston.com. 74 Q U E S T

Count on Comptoir des Cotonniers for a contemporary French sensibility: Vernest sweater ($140), Voeven blazer ($365), and Vrikala trousers ($215). Comptoir des Cotonniers: 137 Fifth Ave., 212.460.5289.

ONE NIGHT ONLY “dazzling... sizzling...” – Variety

“extraordinarily spectacular ...” – The New York Times

presents

CAREER TRANSITION FOR DANCERS

30 ANNIVERSARY TH

PEARL JUBILEE A STAR- STUDDED RETROSPECTIVE

In association with LLOYD E. RIGLER – LAWRENCE E. DEUTSCH FOUNDATION

Monday, September 28, 2015 • 7:00 PM Honoring

Academy Award Winner

SHIRLEY MACLAINE

ROLEX DANCE AWARD

“ Regardless of what I have done, seen, and enjoyed; I think of myself as a DANCER!”

CAREER TRANSITION FOR DANCERS’ AWARDS

ANDREW FAAS—FAAS FOUNDATION • IRENE & FRED SHEN • MISTY WIDELITZ • ROLEX WATCH U.S.A., INC. Special appearances and performances by, and artists from “All That Jazz” from CHICAGO with Bebe Neuwirth • American Ballet Theatre American Repertory Ballet • Arthur Murray Dance Center, Columbus Circle Ballet Tech’s Kids Dance • Big Apple Circus • Ephrat Asherie Dance • Jazz Roots Dance Company Joffrey Ballet Concert Group • National Dance Institute • New York Song & Dance Company Parsons Dance • Jason Samuels Smith • and Jubilee Orchestra

CELEBRATING ROLEX DANCE AWARD RECIPIENTS

DEBBIE ALLEN • ANN-MARGRET • ANGELA LANSBURY • NIGEL LYTHGOE • LIZA MINNELLI BEBE NEUWIRTH • ANN REINKING • CHITA RIVERA • TWYLA THARP • TOMMY TUNE For more stars, honorees and surprises, visit careertransition.org Produced and Directed by Ann Marie DeAngelo Executive Producer Alexander J. Dubé

NYCITYCENTER.ORG CITYTIX BOX OFFICE CAREERTRANSITION.ORG 212.581.1212 131 W 55th St PERFORMANCE ONLY TICKETS AT $150, $90, $60, $45 Patron Tickets: $1,500, $750. Tables for 10 start at $7,500. Patron Tickets and Tables include premium performance seating and postperformance “Supper with the Stars,” dancing, and a live auction at the Hilton New York. Contact Marjorie Horne at 212.228.7446 x 33; Marjorie@mcevoyandassociates.com; or careertransition.org • Group Sales: 718.499.9691 • Artists and program subject to change.

30th Anniversary Pearl Jubilee Chairs Anka K. Palitz • Michele Herbert • Michele Riggi 30th Anniversary Pearl Jubilee Sponsors

Official Wine Sponsor

DANCE Magazine© and POINTE© • Lloyd E. Rigler -Lawrence E. Deutsch Foundation Andrew Faas — Faas Foundation • Michele & Lawrence Herbert • Irene & Fred Shen Sono and Victor Elmaleh Foundation • The Samuel I. Newhouse Foundation

Photos: S. MacLaine by Greg Gorman© • D. Allen courtesy of The Arts Council of Baton Rouge • Ann-Margret by Michael Childers© • A. Lansbury by Stephen Paley© • N. Lythgoe courtesy of Fox 5© • L. Minnelli by Ruven Afandor© B. Neuwirth by Tom Bloom© • A. Reinking courtesy of Theatermania.com© • C. Rivera by Laura Marie Duncan© • T. Tharp by Greg Gorman© • T. Tune by Evin Thayer© • ORIGINAL DESIGN BY ERIKA FIORAVANTI © 2014

WHAT IT’S WORTH clothing for the modern woman—caters to its clients by offering a by-appointment, personal-shopping experience for the most discerning. Collections are designed four times a year for both Worth New York and W by Worth (the contemporary brand in the portfolio) and each collection has its own dedicated showroom and team of stylists. In Fall 2015, the by-appointment, personal-shopping experience is to be enriched with the introduction of a showroom in the Crown Building at 730 Fifth Avenue. The flagship location combines a stunning, penthouse space featuring unrivaled views of Central Park with the exclusivity and sophistication that has come to define Worth New York. But there’s more: gorgeous new websites to browse the clothing, pre-appointment and post-appointment. “Our websites gives us another kind of flagship—an interactive destination that keeps our current customer up-to-date with our latest news and collections, and offers a new audience of women across the country a place to explore and connect with Worth,” says Dave DeFeo, CEO of Worth. Worth New York knows how to dress its clients to feel chic, empowered, and remarkable. The collections are unique to the brand—they’re designed and produced for the company. Worth New York creates a versatile, wearable spectrum of attractive, quality pieces that are made to be incorporated into an envolving wardrobe. Clients who revisit the company, season after season, will succeed in curating a closet for the variety of occasions of their lives: from work to cocktails, with a homecoming tailgate or a parent-teacher meeting in the mix. To visit the stylists of Worth New York is to revisit an elegant way of dressing—and living. u For more information about an appointment with the stylists of Worth New York, contact 212.223.3757 or showroom@worthnewyork.com.

CO U RTE S Y O F WO RT H

WORTH NEW YORK—THE ALLURING line of luxurious

SHOPPING

This page, clockwise from above left: A stylist for W by Worthâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the contemporary collection from Worth New York; Worth New York Showroom by design firm A + I; a sketch; the process of design; the fabric. Opposite page: The campaign featuring

P H OTO C R E D I T G O E S H E R E

the Fall 2015 collection for Worth New York.

SEPTEMBER 2015 77

FA S H I O N

THE HEIGHT OF STYLE

J AY Z U K E R KO R N ; S A R A H D E S A N T I S

BY DANIEL CAPPELLO

78 QUEST

TODAY WE THINK of heels as a girl’s best friend. Well, maybe diamonds still top that list, but what woman doesn’t long for a pair of Louboutins or yearn for those YSLs? Though men might very well appreciate a good heel—and the calf curves they help create—what they might fail to appreciate is the fact that it was the male sex who started the whole craze. As with many fashionable trends, this one began among the upper echelons of society, where men of leisure could afford to walk around in impractically high shoes: a sign of their social dominance. Eventually, women adapted the fad in an attempt to assert themselves, plunging themselves into a centuries-long battle with broken toes, busted arches, and the burden of bunions. Now, an exhibit at the Palm Springs Art Museum that runs through December gives a lofty lift to the prized pump. Merging fashion, film, and material culture, “Killer Heels: The Art of the High-Heeled Shoe” explores the fashion world’s most coveted object, its rich cultural history, and its complex relationships to fantasy, functionality, identity, and power. The exhibit presents more than 110 contemporary high heels and 50 historical designs drawn from designer archives and the Brooklyn Museum and Metropolitan Museum of Art’s renowned costume collections. If you’re looking for a fashion fix, “Killer Heels” is a sure fit. What might come as a surprise is the new appreciation both women and men will walk away with for the social, sexual, ideological, and political role the heel has played in history. One word of caution if you’re planning to make the trip: You might want to wear flats. u

Above: Rem D. Koolhaus, Eamz, 2004. Below, from left: Winde Rienstra, Bamboo Heels, 2012; Walter Steiger, Unicorn Tayss, 2013; Chau Har lee, Blade Heel, 2010; Chinese, Manchu Woman’s Shoe, 19th century; Christian Louboutin, Printz, 2013. Opposite page: Miu Miu, Cammeo Barque Leather Wedge, 2006.

E D U C AT I O N

BEYOND THE CLASSROOM BY ALEX TRAVERS

This page: Léman Manhattan’s location in the center of New York’s Financial District allows the school to teach beyond the classroom. Opposite page: A graduation ceremony (above); students who choose to pursue the International Baccalaureate Diploma work hard for it (below).

A N D R E W W E R N E R ; CO U RTE S Y O F L É M A N M A N H AT TA N

ALL HIGH SCHOOL students have a choice to make, one

familiar to anyone who has ever sat in a classroom and thought about their future: Do you continue your education? If so, do you further it with Advanced Placement classes? Or, if it’s offered at your school, do you sign up for the International Baccalaureate Diploma Program? What’s right for you? What will get you into the college of your dreams? What will best prepare you for the future? It’s no secret that college admissions have become increasingly competitive. According to a report in the Stanford Daily, 2,138 students joined Stanford University’s class of 2018 in the fall of last year. Over 42,000 applied. (Statistics for the class of 2019 were not yet available.) In 2014, MIT accepted less than 8 percent of its applicants; Harvard welcomed less than 6. But a study published in 2012 by the International Graduate Insight Group, a U.K.–based research consultancy, suggests there is a way for students to increase their chances of admission at top colleges and universities like Harvard and Stanford: enroll in the International Baccalaureate Diploma Program (IBDP), an established curriculum that students can begin at the start of their junior year, if it is offered at their high school. The acceptance rate of IBDP students into Ivy League schools, the study shows, is between 3 and 13 percentage points higher

compared to the total population acceptance rate. “It certainly doesn’t guarantee admission,” notes Drew Alexander, head of school at Léman Manhattan, one of the few independent preparatory schools to offer the IBDP in New York, “but it increases the possibility.” Marilyn McGrath, director of undergraduate admission at Harvard, says: “We are always pleased to see the credentials of the IB diploma on the transcript. Success in IB correlates well with success at Harvard.” The IBDP has been around for over four decades and it is gaining traction globally. By most measures, the curriculum is rigorous. To qualify as a diploma candidate, students have to complete a “creativity, action, service” program and take six mandatory subject courses. Three of those six have to be high-level classes. Also, outside of the necessary coursework, students are required to write a 4,000 word “extended essay” related to a subject they are studying. Then, usually during the last semester of junior year, IB candidates take a class called Theory of Knowledge. Unique to IB, Theory of Knowledge is meant to encourage critical thinking. By the end of that class, students must submit a 1,600 word essay and give an oral presentation on a specific topic. All IBDP candidates have their written exams at the end SEPTEMBER 2015 81

E D U C AT I O N

This page: Léman Manhattan students in a classroom setting. Opposite page: The International Baccalaureate Diploma Program offered at

of the program. These are marked by external IB examiners and graded on a scale of one to seven, seven being the highest. Diplomas are awarded to those who receive at least 24 points. Students who choose to pursue an IB diploma work hard for it. Balancing the commitments requires discipline. “It’s preparing you for success in your other courses, but also for success in the real world,” says Alexander. “IB students are risk-takers, in an appropriate sort of way.” “There’s a journey that every kid goes through in the IB that you don’t see in curricula like the AP,” says Mac Gamse, CEO of Meritas, a family of independent schools that provides personalized education to students across the globe. (Léman Manhattan is a Meritas School.) “[Students] are doing a lot of self-exploration, a lot of critical thinking. What IB is trying to do is have students take facts and question them, analyze them, and ultimately—through the writing of essays and projects—create their own opinions based on that information. It’s for strong, motivated students who want to take their education seriously.” Still, students who are curious about IB classes but who do not wish to take on the full IBDP commitment are able to participate. If they are not able to complete all the hours of “creativity, action, service” and take the required course load, they have the option to become an IB certificate can82 QUEST

didate. Alexander, who has witnessed all types of students benefit from both the diploma and certificate, says, “It really is a program that fits all students’ needs. You just have to decide what courses you’re going to be taking and at what level you want to take those courses.” Based on enrollment statistics, international families appear to be more aware of the IBDP than domestic families. “There’s more education we have to do for New York City families than for someone coming from abroad,” explains Alexander. Data available on the International Baccalaureate Organization’s website shows that only 10 private schools in New York state offer the diploma program. New York public schools, however, are embracing IB faster; fifty New York schools appear when the “private school” filter is removed from the search. All of this raises a valid, if slightly subjective, question: If the IBDP has been so well received, why are so few private schools in New York City offering it? “A lot of times private, independent schools have their niche and their mission,” Alexander clarifies. “When you have a school with an established curriculum, inertia really plays a role in everything you do.” “I think curricula and organizations are slow to change,” agrees Gamse. “And the traditional curricula haven’t really done a great job with globalization—dealing with interna-

CO U RTE S Y O F L É M A N M A N H AT TA N

Léman stresses the importance of critical thinking (above); Léman Manhattan Head of School Drew Alexander welcomes a student (below).

“Today, we know that what happens in other parts of the world affects us immediately.” tionalism—and dealing with critical thinking skills. Those are the real fundamentals of IB.” There is also the issue of hiring and training IB teachers. “It’s more expensive,” admits Gamse. “There is a significant amount of professional development that goes into teaching IB and teaching IB courses. The school really has to make a dedication to it.” As a new school, Léman Manhattan sees its dedication to the IB program as an opportunity. With a diverse student body

and a sustained mission to promote internationalism, Léman hopes to teach its students to become global citizens. Alexander stresses that we have to be aware about what’s going on internationally. “Today, we know that what happens in other parts of the world affects us immediately.” “We’re going to have to figure out how to make this planet last for countless generations,” continues Alexander. “We are global citizens, whether we like it or not. We can choose to ignore it or embrace it; be victims or change agents.” u

MARRIAGES BY ELIZABETH QUINN BROWN

Andrea Hippeau & Daniel Vogel September 13, 2014 • Sagaponack, new York

The couple was married at Wölffer Estate Vineyard, where they danced to “You Make Loving Fun” by Fleetwood Mac. The after-party was held at Stephen’s Talkhouse.

The couple asked Jessica Reed Amit and Emily Mendez-Penate to serve as maids of honor and Alex Demas to serve as best man. The cake was a “doughnut” cake from Dreesen’s Donuts.

84 QUEST

S U E K E S S LE R O F C H R I S T I A N OT H S T U D I O S

The bride wore a dress by Reem Acra. She was walked down the aisle by her parents, Lynne and Eric Hippeau.

WEDDINGS

MARRIAGES Antonia Pryor & William Leavitt april 18, 2015 • Hobe Sound, Florida

The bride wore a dress by Modern Trousseau. She was walked down the aisle by her father, Samuel F. Pryor IV.

C H I P L I T H E R L A N D O F E LE V E N W E D D I N G S P H OTO G R A P H Y

The bride had forgotten her bouquet, so her father was forced to U-turn when approaching the chapel. “It looked like I had changed my mind!” remembers the bride.

The couple was married at the Christ Memorial Chapel with a reception at the Jupiter Island Club.

The couple danced to “Someone Like You” by Van Morrison. They honeymooned in the Maldives and in South Africa.

SEPTEMBER 2015 85

MARRIAGES Christy Meisner & Luke Doramus april 25, 2015 • new orleanS, louiSiana

The cake was created by Haydel’s Bakery—a tiered New Orleans King Cake with different flavors for different layers, like lemon, pecan praline, and strawberry cream cheese.

86 QUEST

The couple danced to “Forever” by Ben Harper before jetting to France and St. Barth for their honeymoon.

N AT U R A L E X P R E S S I O N S

The ceremony was held at St. Louis Cathedral and the reception was hosted at Broussard’s.

DA R K RO UX

The bride wore a dress by Jenny Packham with a crown of lily of the valley and ranunculus from her company, Crowns by Christy.

WEDDINGS

MARRIAGES Amy Shannon & Ben Nichols april 25, 2015 • london, england

The couple, who met as students at the University of Edinburgh, danced to “Fall At Your Feet” by Crowded House.

DAV E WAT TS

The bride wore a dress by Karen Willis Holmes with a headpiece by Ivory & Co. The couple toasted their union with “The Nichols Cup,” which (per tradition) is sipped from by bride and groom—in tandem.

Tkests were served Southsides—a favorite cocktail of the bride and groom—braised short rib,

The ceremony was held at Christ Church and the reception was hosted at the Hurlingham Club.

SEPTEMBER 2015 87

OPEN HOUSE

ROSE HILL ROAD boasts a waterfront property with eight bedrooms and six bathrooms, resting on 5.27 acres in Water Mill, New York. The home—an elegant, Georgian-style, redbrick “country house” built by Goodwillie & Moran circa 1920—includes 330 feet of direct access to the water of Mecox Bay with a dock. The residence is approached down a long treelined driveway. The open, rolling southern lawn wraps around to the rear of the property, providing an open eastern vista across the bay. The carved, wood-trimmed front door opens into a vestibule before opening to the main staircase and broad sun-room gallery with floor-to-ceiling, bay-facing windows and a terrace. On the ground floor, the north side features the formal dining room with fireplace that opens on to an outdoor

dining porch overlooking the heated pool. The southern wing of the ground floor gallery leads to the walnut-paneled living room with Grinling Gibbons carvings over the mantel fireplace and an elliptical-shaped outdoor loggia. Up the main staircase, the landing leads on the south side to two guest bedrooms and baths, and the oversized family room with fireplace and porch, intended originally for outdoor sleeping. The northern side includes the bay-facing master suite with open-air porch and dressing room. u For more information, contact Harald Grant of Sotheby’s International Realty: Southampton Brokerage at 631.227.4913 or harald.grant@sothebyshomes.com

This page, clockwise from above: The dock is featured on 330 feet of access to the water of Mecox Bay; the property on Rose Hill Road in Water Mill, New York, is on the market for $27.5 million; the eight-bedroom home is situated on 5.27 acres.

R I C H A R D TAV E R N A ( CO U RTE S Y O F S OT H E BY ’ S I N TE R N AT I O N A L R E A LT Y )

THE BEST OF THE HAMPTONS

J A K E R A J S ( CO U RT E S Y O F S OT H E BY ’ S I N TE R N AT I O N A L R E A LT Y )

OPEN HOUSE

COOPERS NECK LANE (considered to be the most exclusive street in Southampton, New York) offers a property with 11 bedrooms and 12 bathrooms, situated on 4.6 acres by the Atlantic Ocean. The home was constructed in 1899, harkening back to the Gilded Age. It is steeped in history, with updates for the 21st century. The home—which encompasses 12,000 square feet—features architectural details in perfectly proportioned rooms, including 10-foot ceilings throughout the three stories and deep, covered porches. French doors open to the stables, which have been converted and renovated into an open, double-story great room leading to terraces and a heated, 50-foot pool. There are 11 fireplaces, including in the breakfast room, the dining room, the entrance hall, and the library. Other

offerings include an eat-in kitchen, a butler’s pantry, a walk-in wine cellar, and a screening room for 20 people—all on the first floor. The master bedroom is en suite, featuring a double-height bedroom with a fireplace; a galleried, private upper level; a pair of marble baths; and a pair of dressing rooms. This treasure of a property is built on a grand scale, with an understated elegance that is stunning and unique. This private (and rarely available) estate captures the best of a bygone era as coupled with the amenities of modern living. u For more information, contact Molly Ferrer of Sotheby’s International Realty: Southampton Brokerage at 631.227.4925 or molly.ferrer@sothebyshomes.com.

This page, clockwise from above: This property on Coopers Neck Lane in Southampton, New York, is on the market for $37.5 million; the classic, shingle-style home offers a N/S HarTru tennis court; the master bedroom is en suite, with a galleried, private upper level.

SEPTEMBER 2015 89

CALENDAR

SEPTEMBER

On September 16, the Central Park Conservancy will host a special cocktail reception at Gallaghers Steakhouse at 6 p.m., to be followed by an 8 p.m. performance of the widely acclaimed Broadway show Hamilton at Richard Rodgers Theatre. For more information, call 212.671.1818.

The St. Jude gala, presented this year by AngioDynamics, will be held at the Saratoga National Golf Club at 6 p.m. For more information, call 518.583.4653.

The Central Park Conservancy will host its fall benefit at Gallaghers Steakhouse at 6 p.m. For more information, call 212.446.2242.

REWARDING RESEARCH

SCORING GOALS

The Saratoga Polo Association Anniversary Cup Tournament will take place at Whitney Field at 5:30 p.m. For more information, call 518.584.8108.

A WALK IN THE PARK

CELEBRATING THE BALLET

The American Ballet Theatre Junior Council will host its Junior

Turnout—an evening of cocktails and dancing—at the Bowery Hotel at 7 p.m. For more information, call 212.477.3030.

powerboats and sailboats (from both domestic and international manufacturers) will be on display. For more information, call 212.752.4840.

SAIL AWAY

The 45th Annual Newport International Boat Show will take place at the Newport Yachting Center (4 Commercial Warf) from September 17–20. A full range of

ISLAND ARTS

The 2015 Vineyard Artisans Festival will run from September 4–6 at the Martha’s Vineyard Agricultural Society (35 Panhandle Road). For more information, call 508.693.9549.

ALL THAT JAZZ

The Lake George Jazz Festival— featuring the Julian Lage Trio, the Jamie Baum Septet, and the Jazz Passengers—will run from September 19–20 at Shepard Park. For more information, call 518.668.2616.

SECRET GARDENS

90 QUEST

The Museum of the City of New York and its Young Members Circle will host its summer benefit party (”the Big Apple Bash”) at the museum at 8 p.m. The event will offer private access to the latest exhibitions and dancing on the Fifth Avenue terrace, overlooking Central Park. For more information, call 212.821.0802.

Guided walking tours of several private gardens located throughout historic Newport will begin at Kingscote Mansion (253 Bellevue Avenue) starting at 8:30 a.m. For more information, call 401.439.7253.

NEW YORK GROOVE

On September 4, the Saratoga Polo Association will host its action-packed Anniversary Cup Tounrament at Whitney Field at 5:30 p.m. For more information, call 518.584.8108.

INTIMATE OPERAS

The Gotham Chamber Opera will begin its fall season with a

CALENDAR

MAD ABOUT JEWELS

The Museum of Arts and Design (MAD) will honor philanthropist and collector Barbara Tober and Vacheron Constantin, the world’s oldest watch manufacturer, at its “LOOT 2015: MAD About Jewelry” benefit and cocktail reception. “LOOT 2015: MAD About Jewelry” will also hold a sale of artist-made jewelry. For more information, call 212.299.7712.

OCTOBER 1 EAT/DRINK R.I.

On September 28, the Museum of Arts and Design will honor Barbara Tober at its benefit. For more information, call 212.299.7712. 15th anniversary concert at a venue to be announced. Its 2016 season will continue in February with Alessandro Stradella’s San Giovanni Battista. The season will conclude with Charlie Parker’s Yardbird. For more information, call 212.868.4460.

MAGNIFICENT MUSIC

The New York Philharmonic will announce its 174th season and host its opening-night gala at David Geffen Hall at Lincoln Center at 6 p.m. A black-tie dinner will follow in the tent at Damrosch Park. For more information, call 212.875.5757.

STAGE RIGHT

The American Theatre Wing will celebrate its 2015 gala honoring James Earl Jones at The Plaza at 7 p.m. The evening will include a cocktail reception, a seated dinner, and special performances. Funds will provide support for the Wing’s programs, which champion and celebrate American theatre. For more information, call 212.875.5757.

The Big Toast benefit for Big Brothers and Sisters, Newport’s tasting event featuring vendors from all over Southern New England, will take place at OceanCliff Hotel at 6 p.m. For more information, call 401.921.2434.

TOUCHDOWN PASS

The Great Sports Legends Dinner in honor of NFL Hall of Fame linebacker Nick Buoniconti and his son Mark will take place at the Waldorf=Astoria at 5:30 p.m. For more information, call 212.755.2590.

PRESERVATION

The New York Landmarks Preservation Foundation will hold its “Lunch at a Landmark” with speaker Lord Norman Foster. For more information, call 212.669.7819. COMMUNIT Y PROGRAMS

City Harvest’s 21st Bid Against Hunger tasting event and live auction will be held at Pier 36 (299 South Street) at 7:30 p.m. For more information, call 646.412.0646.

The Marine Mammal Center will celebrate its annual Sea Lion Soirée at Fort Chronkhite in Sausalito, California, at 4 p.m. For more information, call 415.289.7331.

The Navy League of the United States will host its Palm Beach Council dinner dance at the Beach Club at 6:30 p.m. Dress will be black tie. For more information, call 561.6861972.

AQUATIC ACHIEVEMENTS

MUSTER THE CREW

FREE FOR ALL

Participating museums across the Untied States (including the Museum of American Illustration and the Museum of Comic and Cartoon Art) will emulate the spirit of the Smithsonian Institution’s Washington, D.C.–based facilities, which offer admission gratis, and open their doors to the public for free. For more information, call 212.838.2560.

SPINNING WHEELS

The Tour de Newport bicycle race to benefit the Newport County Community Mental Health Center will begin at Rogers High School at 8:30 a.m. This year, the event will be dedicated to Michael F. Paranzino. For more information, call 401.846.1213.

On September 24, the New York Philharmonic will announce its 174th season and host its opening-night gala at David Geffen Hall at Lincoln Center beginning at 6 p.m. The 7:30 p.m. concert, which will be telecast on PBS stations, will be followed by a dinner in the tent at Damrosch Park. For more information, call 212.875.5737. SEPTEMBER 2015 91

MAKING BUSINESS OUT OF BEAUTY PRODUCED AND STYLED BY DANIEL CAPPELLO PHOTOGRAPHED BY JULIE SKARRATT

AFTER GRADUATING from Columbia, Lauren Remington Platt

started working at a hedge fund as an analyst focusing on the global water industry. Like most women, she never had enough hours in a day, especially on evenings with events to attend after work. She’d find herself running to the salons closest to her midtown office and hoping for a walk-in blowout, or would drop by the beauty counters at Bloomingdale’s for a quick touch-up on her makeup. Uber had just launched, and Platt, a self-described natural-born risk-taker, found herself wondering if she could parlay the on-demand car service model to answer her fairly frequent beauty fixes. And, like that, the on-demand beauty business known as Vênsette was born. In fact, it wasn’t so quick, or easy. Platt spent weekends developing a business model and interviewing hair and makeup artists in Starbucks throughout the city. She rented large studio spaces in Brooklyn for artist testing and training. Though it’s not every day you see hedge-fund analysts jump ship for the beauty business, the transition came naturally to Platt, who’s long had a passion for fashion. Even while she was working in finance, she was consulting on the side for friends in the fashion industry, and could even be spotted sitting front-row—perfectly coiffed, natch—at runway shows. Combining her aptitude for an Excel spreadsheet with her natural inclination for style and beauty, Platt—like Paperless Post, Gilt Groupe, and Uber before her—used technology to make exclusive services accessible to a broader demographic. “With Vênsette,” she explains, “I created a platform that streamlined the artist-consumer relationship by vetting and connecting pre-existing supply (top freelance hair and makeup artists) with demand (time-strapped women). Now, women can easily find a trusted hair and makeup artist when they’re traveling, or when their regular stylist is booked.” In a pinch? Tap Vênsette—or, more appropriately, vensette.com. (The name, intended to evoke a sense of luxury and history, 92 QUEST

was inspired by two Parisian greats—Place Vendôme and Marie Antoinette—and happens to be a play on the French word for twenty-seven, “vingt-sept,” Platt’s age when it launched.) Four years in and Vênsette is still on the rise. From New York, it’s expanded into four additional markets—Los Angeles, San Francisco, Miami, and the Hamptons—and with the launch this past spring of Vênsette Weddings, it’s the first nationally branded beauty service for brides. Since 2014, the Vênsette app has offered women in each market the ease of being able to book an appointment at their fingertips. Platt describes how Vênsette’s B2C growth has recently outpaced its B2B revenue stream, but the company still enjoys a strong relationship with other luxury brands and businesses, including hotels—which is why it made sense for us to ask Platt to join us in one the most luxurious new hotels to open this year in New York: the Baccarat. The first hotel and global flagship for the 250-year-old Baccarat brand, the Baccarat Hotel & Residences New York is a gleaming homage to the haute French crystal maker. Directly across from the Museum of Modern Art, the lower levels are veiled by a 125-foot-wide corrugated crystallike curtain. From there, the property only gets more polished, from the service (think customized welcomes, packing and unpacking assistance, flowers upon arrival, and in-room beauty products by La Mer) down to the spa. Frédéric Chambre might have curated the art in the vaulted-ceiling bar that’s dripping with Baccarat chandeliers, but Quest recently had the privilege of beautifying the hotel’s public spaces with a glistening gem of its choice: Vênsette’s Lauren Remington Platt, in an array of current fall fashions. Marie Antoinette, eat your heart out. u Opposite page: Vênsette founder Lauren Remington Platt in the barrel-vaulted bar at the Baccarat Hotel wearing a Valentino dress, Stuart Weitzman heels, and jewelry by Harry Winston and Van Cleef & Arpels.

On the outdoor terrace adjacent to the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bar at Baccarat, Lauren is seen in a black and green pleated dress in wool and silk by Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection heels, and the No. 93 Cuff by Verdura, a one-of-a-kind white-gold hinged black jade cuff set with a vintage silver-on-gold star with Colombian emerald and old-mine cushion diamonds. 94 QUEST

Overlooking MoMA from the outdoor terrace of the Baccarat Hotel, Lauren is a work of art in Oscar de la Rentaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bordeaux rose macramĂŠ gown with organza flower and sequin embroidery and the Trinity de Cartier ring by Cartier in diamonds and yellow, rose, and white golds.

This spread: In the opulent Grand Salon of the Baccarat Hotel, Lauren is the portrait of composure in Dennis Basso’s plum fringe gown; Verdura’s gold, amethyst, emerald, and tsavorite garnet Cascade earclips; Cartier’s Panthère de Cartier ring; and Stuart Weitzman’s Double Up heels in forest croco velvet. Fashion shoot associate: Alex Travers. All hair and makeup for shoot by Vênsette (vensette.com). 96 QUEST

This page: In Valentino’s embroidered black lace dress, Harry Winston’s Sapphire Cushion earrings, Van Cleef & Arpels’ diamond Cosmos ring, and Harry Winston’s diamond Traffic ring. Opposite page: Lauren is ready for business in a silk blazer and pant by Ralph Lauren, heels by Ralph Lauren Collection, Verdura’s gold Maltesecross Midas bracelet, and Cartier’s Trinity de Cartier earrings. SEPTEMBER 2015 99

DUSTING FOR FOOTPRINTS B Y L I LY H O A G L A N D

SOME OF THE shoes in ModeMuseum (MoMu) Antwerp’s new exhibition bring to mind Miles Davis’ thoughts on jazz: it’s about the notes you don’t play. With their exquisitely minimal designs, many pairs of footwear featured in “Foot Print: The Tracks of Shoes in Fashion” draw attention to the parts of the shoe that you don’t see. The idea for the exhibit sprang from MoMu Director Kaat Debo asking Geert Bruloot to look at the museum’s archives with the idea of creating a catalog. Bruloot, a “retail pioneer” and fashion insider, is the man credited with creating the Antwerp Six, a group of designers whose success established the city as fashion-forward and included such notable names as Dries Van

This page: Splashes of color on a shoe by Pierre Hardy from Flair Italy, November 2008. Opposite page: Jurgi Persoons’ 1997 heel-only shoe in wood and patent leather. The heel is a

CO U RTE S Y O F M O M U / F R É D É R I C UY T TE N H OV E

reproduction of a 1950s sandal.

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Noten and Ann Demeulemeester. After listening to Debo’s idea, Bruloot saw the potential to do more than a catalog for the MoMu. He saw a narrative that needed investigation. “Foot Print” traces the history of cult fashion shoe design, with the majority of the collection coming from Bruloot and his partner, Eddy Michiels. As general manager of the luxury footwear boutique Coccodrillo, Bruloot says he never forgets the importance of the “soul” of the shoe—pun most definitely intended. “We have always been guided by the ‘amaze me’ factor when were were buying shoes for the store,” says Bruloot. “Emotion and inspiration have always been and are still our references, not the shoe as product.” With over 600 examples of fashion-forward footwear, the exhibit is seeped with enough “soul” to satisfy even an old jazzman playing “Some Kind of Blue.” u

This page: The ‘G#15’ wedges are Giuseppe Zanotti’s iconic shoe for the 2015 season with the gold plated cut-out ‘G’ on the wedge mimicking his signature. Opposite page: A pair of 1996 Maison Martin Margiela leather ‘tabi’ shoe. The shoe consists of only sole, heel, and tape to wrap around the leg.

CO U RTE S Y O F M O M U / F R É D É R I C UY T TE N H OV E

Bruloot says he never forgets about the importance of the “soul” of the shoe—pun most definitely intended.

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SLIPPING INTO SOME QUIPS BY DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA ELEANOR LAMBERT was the doyenne of fashion publicists in the American 20th century. A girl from Crawfordsville, Indiana, she was born on August 10, 1903, and she died one hundred years later in November 2013. As a very young woman she wanted to be a sculptor, so she first studied art at the John Herron School of Art in Indianapolis, then fashion at the Chicago Art Institute. She came to New York in her early twenties to pursue her dream. Later in life, she observed that New York was the ideal place for people to actualize their ideas. She also added to that observation that “if your first idea doesn’t work, come up with another.” When the Great Depression set in, she needed a job. She realized that the artists and art galleries needed customers, and that if they had publicity in one or all of the city’s 11 daily newspapers, they could reach their potential. By the mid-1930s, in the middle of the Great Depression, she had a roster of artist as clients which included Jackson Pollock, Jacob Epstein, and Isamu Noguchi, to name but a few. She also helped establish the American Art Dealers Association (and was its press representative in the early years). This led to her becoming the first press director of the new Whitney Museum of Modern Art, founded by Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney. However, amidst all that activity, in 1932 she took on a fashion designer as a client: Annette Simpson. The Fashion Industry in New York was then known simply as the Garment Industry. Designers were utilitarian to the manufacturers, 104 QUEST

with few exceptions such as Nettie Rosenstein (who wasn’t a designer herself) and Hattie Carnegie. Only the French and British designers cut a swath in the public mind. Even Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman made their only clothing lines without a designer’s name attached. Over the next six decades Eleanor Lambert had an enormous impact on the growth and prominence of an industry being transformed to the giant that it is today. By the 1950s, she was the person to go to if a designer/ or manufacturer wanted to build a business to become world class. She created the Best Dressed List in 1940 to counter the fall of France (with their great couture industry) to the Nazis. She was one of the creators of the CFDA, and the fashion world came to her welcome mat gratefully and for good reason. In 1978 (when she was 75), Eleanor compiled a booklet called Quips and Quotes About Fashion: Two Hundred Years of Comments on the American Fashion Scene. Everyone from Ben Franklin and Abigail Adams to Roger Vivier and Mainbocher (with Abraham Lincoln, Mark Twain, and George Washington in between) had something to say about how—as Shakespeare pointed out first in Hamlet—“the apparel oft proclaims the man…” Her intention, in this compilation, was to help fashion writers with ideas for stories, or quotes to construct an idea around. For us, it’s the insight and the amusement of how over time, everything changes. That’s the fashion. u

Dress for yourself, not for your friendsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;not even for your husband. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;The Duchess of Windsor

I wished that more had been left to the imagination, and less to the eye. —Abigail Adams

She dressed like an idol, hung with pearls, growing younger and blonder and more beautiful each year. —Edith Wharton

Thin heels are not for plump legs. The contrast is unpleasant. —Roger Vivier 106 QUEST

Knees are among the facts of life that do not gain by being revealed. —Mainbocher

I’ve always loved high style and low company. —Anita Loos

KEEPING IT CONFIDENTIAL AS THE DAUGHTER of one of the most iconic fashion designers of the past quarter century, Carolina Herrera de Báez grew up surrounded by beauty. It’s no wonder that her work to this day is continually inspired by the values of Carolina Herrera herself. Recently, as a tribute to her mother, Herrera de Báez introduced a new collection of fragrances known as Herrera Confidential. The exclusive collection consists of six fragrances and four essential oils, which can be used individually or mixed together to create new and truly personal scents. The bottles were crafted in bold jewel tones from the world’s finest glass and stamped with the initials of the House of Herrera. It’s like having a glass window into the life of the Herreras sitting on your vanity top. In fact, that’s exactly what Herrera de Báez, creative director of fragrances for her mother’s eponymous empire, intended for anyone who picks up a bottle of Herrera Confidential—an exclusive entry into the world in which she grew up. In the end, the scents offer a close look at the fascinating history of the Herrera family. Both mother and daughter opened the doors to the 108 QUEST

House of Herrera—conjuring memories of trips taken together, or times spent at family properties—in developing what is a very personal product to each of them. At the heart of the scents is a theme we’ve seen in almost every collection that Carolina Herrera has sent down the runway: a blend of the traditional with the contemporary. The result, so often seen in the clothes, is a combination of elegance, emotion, and authenticity that merge Herrera’s Latin roots with the cosmopolitan New York of today. The collaborative effort of two generations of Herreras, the fragrances are at once traditional and contemporary, while at the same time challenging both contemporary and traditional values. True to the Herrera ethos in any endeavor, they incorporate only the most luxurious and natural materials—in this case, scents—and push them to the limits. For the same reason Herrera’s fashion is able to stay relevant season after season, Herrera Confidential dares to explore the unexpected. There is a personal story behind each of the scents. Take, for instance, Herrera Tuberose, one of the floral scents in the

CO U RTE S Y O F C A RO L I N A H E R R E R A

BY ELIZABETH MEIGHER

This page: Daughter and mother Carolina Herrera de Bรกez and Carolina Herrera open the doors to the House of Herrera and launch a very personal project: a line of scents called Herrera Confidential. Opposite page: A magnified detail of one of the Pure Oils from the collection.

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collection. Tuberose, a staple in the fragrance industry, is often hailed as the queen of white flowers. Much like the crisp white shirts that Herrera favors and has made iconic, tuberose was approached as the symbol of Herreraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s timeless elegance. The designer would tell you that her secret to confidence and timeless appeal is simple: always stay true to yourself. And, much like putting on that clean white shirt, spraying on Herrera Tuberose is like an homage to confidenceâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;to oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unwavering inner strength. Here, the floral aroma becomes sensual and intense as Indian tuberose is warmed by orange flowers and vanilla. The story intensifies with other scents, such as Burning Rose, meant to embody the star qualities of charisma, elegance, and glamour. Bulgarian rose is infused with spices like cinnamon and ginger. A burning rose reminds Herrera of the creative revolu-

tionary moment in New York City during the ’70s and ’80s, when pop culture challenged traditional conventions. And then there’s Nightfall Patchouli, which evokes the mystery of the night with resins and spices. Oud Couture merges the Middle East with New York; Neroli Bohème acts as an homage to carefree days at the verdant Herrera residence in Venezuela, La Vega; Amber Desire takes the classic 20th-centurey perfume base—Ambre 83—and intensifies it for the 21st century. Speaking of intensity, there are the four Pure Oils in the collection: rose, oud, musk, and sandalwood. Oils deliver a more concentrated and intense scent, and can therefore be applied or layered before spraying one of the fragrances, allowing wearers to transform the scents and customize them to make a personal and unique statement. Herrera de Báez explains that she took her

Seen here: A bottle of Neroli Bohème, a passionate fragrance from the collection that pays homage to the whimsical and carefree days spent at Carolina Herrera’s lush and verdant Venezuelan family estate, La Vega.

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This page: In creating Herrera Confidential, Carolina Herrera de Bรกez sought to stay true to the Herrera ethos by incorporating the most luxurious and natural scents while pushing them to unexpected limits. Opposite page: Carolina Herrera stands before an Andy Warhol portrait of herself in her New York City atelier.

brings back my happiest memories. That scent is always present in my fragrances. Q: What a lovely way to honor your mother—by creating Herrera Confidential as a tribute to her likeness and impeccable style. How would you describe your own personal style? How does it differ from your mother’s? CHDB: Similar to fragrances, I like wearing clothes that are timeless and not just a trend of the moment. My mother is one of my biggest influences regarding my taste—we both like natural, clean lines with a modern twist, but we do differ in the way we style looks. My inspiration for fragrance and style comes from everywhere, including books to artwork and traveling. Q: Herrera Confidential presents a clever fusion of scent and fashion. Do the fragrances represent actual Herrera fashion? CHDB: Fashion and fragrance are so closely connected—my mom often says that your perfume is your final accessory. Inspired by the vibrant bottles, she created six exclusive looks, embracing the essence of each fragrance and exuding the image of the House of Herrera. Q: Of the six fragrances and four essential oils comprising Herrera Confidential, do you have any favorites? Any that you tend to wear most often? CHDB: It is hard to select just one! It depends on the day and my mood, but I really love Amber Desire and the Pure Oil of Rose. Recently, I have been experimenting with mixing the fragrances with different oils to create new scents. Oils smell different on every person, making them special and unique to each. Q: What do you consider your greatest similarities to your mom? Greatest differences? CHDB: I share very similar values with my mother. We agree that family always takes priority and that our professional life should not be brought into the home. The best part of working with her is that we can be honest with each other. It is important to have different opinions to create the best possible product.

QUEST: What sparked your interest in fragrance? CAROLINA HERRERA DE BÁEZ: I was always interested in creating scents, but my professional career in fragrance started in 1996 when I was living in New York. My mother asked me if I wanted to collaborate with her in the creation of her new perfume and I accepted. Eighteen years later I still love the mystery, allure, and romance behind making fragrances.

Q: Having traveled extensively with your mom, what has been your favorite or most cherished trip? Any places you would like to visit with your mom in the future? CHDB: I am lucky to travel so much with my mother. Most recently we were in Dubai for the launch of Confidential. It is so special to travel to a new country and learn the native culture. To be able to share these experiences with my mother is something I will cherish forever.

Q: What’s your personal or favorite type of scent, as far as the big four: floral, Oriental, woody, or fresh? CHDB: Growing up, I had a house in Caracas with a beautiful garden that I loved to play in. Vibrant colors came from the fresh flowers that filled our garden, including tuberose, roses, and lilies; however, it was the cascading jasmine vine running alongside the house that was my favorite, and to this day it

Q: Scent is a great accessory—and luxury. Are there any rules or tidbits you can share with us about how to wear a scent to the best effect? CHDB: Fragrance is a very personal accessory. My advice is to find your favorite scent, but to not be afraid to experiment! This collection allows you to mix aromas and—similar to fashion— create different options for all occasions! u

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inspiration from the figure of her mother. She says the fragrances are a testament to her curiosity about the world, her desire to experiment and to learn, and her quest for perfection. These three aspects define her own character, which she inherited from her mother’s energetic and vivacious personality. Here, Quest sits down with Herrera de Báez to talk about the fragrances, her style, and her mother’s example.

Carolina Herrera de Báez, creative director of Carolina Herrera fragrances, first started making scents for her mother’s brand 18 years ago. “I still love the mystery, allure, and romance behind making fragrances,” she says today.

IN AWE OF AUDREY

( CO U RTE S Y O F S K I R A R I Z Z O L I )

“NO ONE CAN DOUBT THAT Audrey Hepburn’s appearance succeeds because it embodies the spirit of today,” explained photographer Cecil Beaton. The actress—who starred in films such as Breakfast at Tiffany’s, Funny Face, My Fair Lady, Roman Holiday, and Sabrina—was a muse for many, including Richard Avedon, Philippe Halsman, Yousuf Karsh, Norman Parkinson, and Irving Penn. These photographers, among others, would capture her charm (which transcended their medium) as well as her devotion to designer Hubert de Givenchy.

C E C I L B E ATO N ; D O U G L A S K I R K L A N D

BY ELIZABETH QUINN BROWN

( CO U RTE S Y O F S K I R A R I Z Z O L I )

N O R M A N PA R K I N S O N

Audrey Hepburn: Portraits of an Icon (Skira Rizzoli) chronicles the story of the actress (1929–1993) through over 80 pictures, which are presented in conjunction with an exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery. “Photographs of Audrey Hepburn have long been a passion in my curatorial life at the National Portrait Gallery,” shares Terence Pepper, photo curator and senior special advisor on photographs. “The first portrait of Hepburn to enter the Collection was given by Cecil Beaton in 1968, while 29 further

This page: Audrey Hepburn, wearing Givenchy at Villa Rolli in Cecchina, Italy—as photographed by Norman Parkinson during the filming of War and Peace (1956). Opposite page: The star at the Hassler Hotel in Rome, Italy— as photographed by Cecil Beaton in 1960; Hepburn, dressed in Givenchy with glasses by Oliver Goldsmith—as photographed by Douglas Kirkland for How to Steal a Million (1966) (inset).

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portraits by him followed in 1991 from the estate of his secretary, Eileen Hose. Over 30 years ago, we acquired two prints by Norman Parkinson at the time of his first retrospective here, which I organized in 1981.” The book starts with her childhood (when the Belgian-born Hepburn was a student of ballet in London) and segues into her years as a performer on the West End. Then follows her success in Hollywood: She starred in over 30 films and received five Academy Award nominations, winning for her performance in Roman Holiday (1953). Throughout, there’s a sense of her joie de vivre and, on occasion, the undercurrent of sadness and self-deprecation that contributed to her dramatic sensibility. The book includes a selection of photographs that appeared in the pages of magazines like Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue, because Hepburn was as much an icon of fashion as she was an icon of film. “Hepburn had a legendary style that appeared simOpposite page: Audrey Hepburn, wearing an ensemble designed by Cecil Beaton for My Fair Lady (1964); the cover of Audrey Hepburn: Portraits of an Icon (Skira Rizzoli), available at rizzoliusa.com (inset). This page: Hepburn with her dog, Assam, as photographed by Beaton in 1963.

ple, achievable, and sometimes even androgynous, yet it was unfailingly sophisticated,” shares Helen Trompeteler, associate curator of photographs. “Such apparently chameleonic qualities enabled Hepburn to respond to and push against the gender expectations of her time, both through her film career and her carefully crafted image.” To behold these images is to become acquainted with the actress that defined the iconography of the era. Hepburn transformed the direction of fashion and film by embodying a cultured, European poise for American audiences—and, for that, we continue to be in awe. u

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C E C I L B E ATO N ( CO U RTE S Y O F S K I R A R I Z Z O L I )

ÉLAN EVERLASTING

CO U RTE S Y O F T H E M E T RO P O L I TA N M U S E U M O F A RT: F R A N C E S CO S C AV U LLO ( T H I S PA G E ) , V I C TO R S K R E B N E S K I ( O P P O S I T E )

BY CHERIE BURNS

HOW COULD I SAY NO? Jacqueline de Ribes had invited me to Paris to meet with her. She was looking for a writer for a book she was working on, and because I had interviewed her several years earlier for a biography I was writing, I was on her list. I knew her world would be the rich and rarified Paris that I had always imagined but never seen. De Ribes’ name has long been synonymous with high fashion, Parisian elegance, and a glorified social life. From her aristocratic upbringing she rose to become the expressive, broadly influential woman and fashion icon of her time. Married to a French count, she was hailed by social arbiters as the “Queen of Paris” several decades ago. Her career in fashion—from a head-turning trendsetter to esteemed designer and eventual style icon—is about to be celebrated by an exhibition at the Costume 120 QUEST

This page: Jacqueline de Ribes photographed in 1983 by Victor Skrebneski in a dress of her own design. Opposite page: A 1986 photograph by Francesco Scavullo of de Ribes wearing a dress of her own design. “Jacqueline de Ribes: The Art of Style” will be on view at the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute from November 19, 2015, through February 21, 2016.

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G E T T Y I M A G E S : RO N G A LE LL A , DAV I D LE E S

This spread, clockwise from bottom left: Milana Windisch Graetz, Egon von Fürstenberg, and Jacqueline de Ribes in 1973 at the Golden, Olden Days of Burlexque Phoenix House Benefit; de Ribes standing before a collection of her own designs in Paris in 1985; de Ribes with Don Carlos de Beistegui y de Yturbe; the countess Jacqueline de Ribes, wearing Christian Dior, photo-

CO U RTE S Y O F T H E M E T RO P O L I TA N M U S E U M O F A RT: RO LO F F B E NY E S TAT E

graphed in 1959 by Roloff Beny.

Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in November. The day I arrived her chauffeur took me to the de Ribes’ family mansion, a three-storied hôtel particulier in the 8th arrondissement. Inside the gate the concierge directed me across the cobblestoned courtyard to a door beneath a protective marquee. A small glass elevator delivered me to the second floor, which on that day was a hive of activity as the Countess’s staff was readying the catalog and account of her life for the upcoming exhibition in New York. Her archivist, Stéphane Goriau, his scarf flowing, was busy at a long table covered with boxes of photos and newspaper clippings in her book-lined office. I looked for a place to put down my purse. Nicolas Pages, a book designer, was working with a myriad of images of de Ribes on his computer from the small adjacent room. Always considered a great natural beauty with her long, elegant line and seductive, intelligent gaze, de Ribes had inspired some of the best photographers of her time—Richard Avedon, Horst P. Horst, Irving Penn, Victor Skrebneski, Cecil Beaton, and Francesco Scavullo, among others—to capture her allure in photos. Those images

launched her fast-rising trajectory into a rarified fashion world. De Ribes was not at the mansion that morning. My meeting with her would occur later, in her apartment. She no longer lives in the residence on Rue de la Bienfaisance, finding the house where she spent her married life with her in-laws too antiquated and stuffy for modern times. She now uses it as the base of her professional operations. Next door to her office on the second floor was a small, charming, shelf-lined kitchen and a narrow table against the wall set with crystal goblets, Haviland plates, and silverware. The archivist, her book designer, her publicist from New York, and Harold Koda, curator of the Met’s Costume Institute, and I sat down together. Linen napkins, hand-embroidered with the de Ribes family crest, were artfully folded at our places. Harold, who has a professional eye for such things, was charmed and fascinated by the way they were folded and asked our server to please show him how to do it. It seemed a trick that only the French could pull off. Lunch, we learned, had been chosen for us by the Countess. After asparagus and giant prawns in a pink sauce followed by salad and éclairs, it was time to begin SEPTEMBER 2015 123

This page: The countess de Ribes as photographed by Horst P. Horst for Vogue in 1953 (left); in one of her own couture creations in the 1950s (right). Opposite page: Arriving at the Oriental Ball at the Hôtel Lambert in Paris, 1969, in a costume and jewelry she designed; at a 1983 party for Yves St. Laurent

work. For my jet-lagged self, a nap might have been more in order, but a call from the Countess that she was ready to see us gave me a spurt of adrenaline. The driver downstairs would take Harold, the publicist, and me to de Ribes’ apartment a short ride away on the Parc Monceau. De Ribes met us in the airy foyer of her classic apartment. Though she is now in her eighties, her long, graceful figure continues to startle with its elegance. A maid in a white apron stood a few feet behind de Ribes. In a fitted ankle-length gray skirt over boots and a turtleneck sweater, de Ribes looked surprisingly modern and professional. She smiled conspiratorially with her guests as she moved deftly through the manners and protocol of her role here. Yes, she was to be called Madame Comtesse in public, but I could refer to her as Jacqueline in private. She was anxious for us to be seated with her at the dining room table under a five-tier crystal chandelier overhead. Blue porcelain chinoiserie sat atop a sideboard and on the mantle of a marble fireplace at the end of the room. It was a bit jarring to see this woman—so associated with historic elegance and European luxury—conducting her business much like the rest of us, in front of large computer screen on a table piled high with notes and photos. Notions of a life of languor were dispelled. Her cellphone rang intermittently. De Ribes is a woman who works and, if she has her way, is likely to do so until her dying day. I had been warned that she prefers working into the night. At three in the afternoon, she was just starting her day. Her attention shifted deftly from small details and whimsy to larger matters of organizing the record of her life and fashion history. Did I like this photo, she asked, or did it have too much hair in it? This one of her on her elbows like a lioness had been frowned upon by her pristine in-laws, she remembered. A fancy European ball, she reminisced, “awakes the most joyful part of one’s imagination.” By the end of the day she had tirelessly demonstrated for Harold how to fold the napkin he had admired at lunch. Her first try wasn’t perfect; the hems did not line up. “Not right,” she sniffed. “The maid did not iron it properly,” she grinned apologetically. She spoke candidly of aging and proudly said she could wear a bikini until she was 75. Then she became philosophical. “I think of myself as a survivor now,” she confided. The following day, after lunch, de Ribes was out when I arrived at her apartment for the afternoon. In the living room, where I waited for her, a candle flickered from the shadows and scented the air. From the living room window I watched her walk with her three-legged cane in the park below. Her wonderful, oft-photographed head was ever so slightly bowed under a 124 QUEST

tan beret and she seemed momentarily lost in thought. Not long after, she arrived before me, standing as perfectly upright as always, dressed in corduroy trousers, a cashmere hoodie, and high-soled pale-pink sequined running shoes. We took our places in the dining room once again and she began to reflect on her life, guided by the photos on her desk. Her well-known style and fashion sense were “achieved,” she says, by her restless, energetic spirit as an antidote to the constrictions of aristocratic French life. “Can you imagine life in a château? What do you do? Play cards? Read in the garden?. . . I had to make life beautiful.” That was her solution. A life of ease and luxury, she insisted, was not for her. “It is just a cage. When I create, I am happiest,” she said. There was often a disarming flash of steeliness, even dismay, from de Ribes when she spoke of the life she has lived. “I am not a superficial woman!” she asserted. Still, she is the last living icon of a certain generation, of a world of style and fashion that no longer truly exists. Her roles as model, muse, and creator of her own label made her one of the most celebrated— and definitive—fashion figures of her time. Sixty ensembles from her private collection will be displayed in November at the Met. Glancing at the photos and papers piled before her, her eyes twinkled triumphantly. “This keeps me from thinking about death and how much time I have left on earth,” she said, fixing her gaze on her listener. “I go to bed and I get up on the doorstep of eternity.” u Cherie Burns is the author most recently of Searching for Beauty: The Life of Millicent Rogers (St. Martin’s Press). Her next book, Diving for Starfish, a jewelry tale, will also be published by St. Martin’s Press.

H O R S T P. H O R S T; G E T T Y I M A G E S ; RO N G A LE LL A

at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City (inset).

PRODUCED BY DANIEL CAPPELLO ILLUSTRATED BY BLAIR BREITENSTEIN

MUSING FALL FASHION As the fall collections debuted down This page: Katie Ermilio, the princess of elegance, beams in her bandeau corset shell and origami bow slit midi skirt. Opposite page: Carolina Herrera, the queen of couture, reigns in her offthe-shoulder cloud-printed jacquard gown. 126 QUEST

the runways, we made note of some favorite looks, then asked illustrator Blair Breitenstein to imagine how they might look on the designers who created themâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;or their muses.

Tory Burch might have elevated boho chic to a whole new level, but this fall itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all about getting down to business, especially in her crĂŞpe tie-neck top and bias-cut skirt. Also, who can sport a set of boots better than Burch herself? 00 QUEST

Stella McCartney keeps things hip and cool, which is why we picture her in her bright blue and dark green micro stripe polo neck jumper and dark green scattered magnolia Stoney jacquard dress.

Italian maestro Valentino is known for red, but this fall he reminds us that heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also the master of laceâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and black. Pictured here with models in a lace collage dress, black lace-inset dress, and red crĂŞpe dress. 130 QUEST

Isabel Marant has the French touch when it comes to fashion. She also has the native savoir-faire to personally pull off her Adele silk Georgette beaded dress and Becky calf-velvet leather boots.

Oscar de la Rentaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s newly minted creative director Peter Copping delivers his first collection for the label with a finale look that is perfectly suited for original OscarPRGirl (now brand consultant) Erika Bearman: a black lightweight radzimir and peridot duchessina cocktail dress with lilac leather gloves. 132 QUEST

Perhaps Ralph Lauren’s greatest muse has been his wife, Ricky, imagined here as her husband’s effortless ambassador in a textured wool crêpe skirt, pinstripe wool jacket, shearling trapper hat, and luxury broadcloth shirt with skinny tie from Ralph Lauren Collection. For more from the illustrator, visit blairabreitenstein.com or follow @blairz on Instagram.

This spread: The grand entrance to the Fontainebleau on Collins Avenue; Nancy and Frank Sinatra (inset).

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HIS KIND OF TOWN In celebration of Frank Sinatra’s centennial, the Fontainebleau tips its hat to Ol’ Blue Eyes.

CO U RTE S Y O F T H E F O N TA I N E B LE AU

BY ALEX TRAVERS

This page: Terry O’Neil captured Frank Sinatra with his entourage (including his stand-in, dressed in an identical suit) while filming The Lady In Cement in 1968 at the hotel. Opposite page: Sinatra with

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Hollywood restaurateur “Prince” Mike Romanoff on the Fontainebleau’s beach; the crescent-shaped Fontainebleau, designed by Morris Lapidus, was built on the site of the Harvey Firestone estate (inset).

explained. “[Sinatra] used to do these events called Breakfast With Frankie. It was like dinner theater. So we’re going to do a special whiskey dinner—rotating through all our restaurants—serving a variety of items reminiscent on what was on that menu,” red sauce classics like clams casino, lobster fra diavolo, Monte Cristo squares, shrimp on horseback. For Frank, the dishes he loved to eat when he stayed at the Fontainebleau. “He lived here every February,” confirmed Herman. He also hosted T.V. shows and performed at the nightclubs. “Just going through our research we estimate that he played here between 350 and 400 times.” There is one performance that was particularly well publicized. One evening, the comedian Shecky Greene had opened for Sinatra at the La Ronde nightclub. Stayed onstage nearly 45 minutes more that he was supposed to. That didn’t sit right with Sinatra. “Sinatra got mad. Real mad,” recalled Bert Sheldon, the Fontainebleau’s entertainment director at the time. Things happened. Later that night, at around 4 in the morning, five men and Sinatra approached Greene at the hotel’s Poodle Lounge. Some choice words were exchanged. Just as

CO U RTE S Y O F T H E F O N TA I N E B LE AU

WHEN THE FONTAINEBLEAU announced that it would be paying tribute to Frank Sinatra’s centennial this year, the phones started ringing. Hundreds of requests were made. Some people offered stories. Others wanted to donate family photos and old Fontainebleau merchandise. One person even showed up with a piece of what he claimed was an original lobby chandelier. Turned out it was authentic. “I can’t tell you how many people called and wanted to be involved,” said Josh Herman, the Fontainebleau’s director of marketing and public relations. At first, it was all a little overwhelming, but the hotel came up with a plan: For 100 days—from September 2 through December 12, Sinatra’s birthday—they would, in their own way, celebrate the “Chairman of the Board’s” 100th birthday. The highlight of the tribute will be a photo exhibition curated by entertainment company 1966 Americas and members of the Sinatra family. Some images have never been shown to the public. Sinatra’s granddaughters Amanda and A.J. will be there to lift the curtains. There will be other subtle touches as well. During cocktail hour—“we don’t know the exact time yet,” Herman admitted—a nightly toast will take place at the lobby bar. Sinatra Select Jack Daniel’s whiskey will be passed to hotel guests. For two or three minutes, one of his songs will be played. Diners may also notice that some menus have been transformed. “We uncovered a bunch of old hotel menus,” Herman

This page: An image of the Fontainebleau lobby. The hotel opened in 1954. Opposite page: “Frank Sinatra, Reflecting” by Terry O’Neil. He liked to take a moment to collect this thoughts,” said O’Neil of Sinatra; the original cast of Ocean’s 11, featuring Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, and Sammy Davis, Jr. (inset).

Greene got the message, he was struck by one of Sinatra’s men with a leather blackjack. Greene suddenly fell forward, got pounced on. The following blows to the gut came like cannonballs. When Sinatra was satisfied with the punishment, he uttered a single word and the walloping stopped. Greene was rushed to the hospital. Ribs had been broken. At least for a moment, a spirit was crushed. (Greene would later work this incident into his on-stage routine, perhaps proof that comedy can come from rather dark, uncomfortable places: “Frank Sinatra once saved my life,” Shecky’d often say. “These guys were beating me up and Frank said, ‘Enough.’”) Still, Sinatra seemed to conduct this nasty business as respectfully as nasty business can be conducted. “I always found Frank to be a real gentleman,” said hotelier Irving Cowan, “especially around my wife. There were a couple times when we were at the Fontainebleau and he pulled me aside and told me that there was going to be a little problem. His goons were going to have to rough somebody up. He told 138 QUEST

us to leave so my wife wouldn’t have to witness it.” Of course, life in Miami for Sinatra wasn’t all fits and fisticuffs. The films he made (Tony Rome, A Hole in the Head, The Lady in Cement) and stages he preformed on here excited him. The fans. The energy. It all meant something. Herman pointed out that all the places Sinatra played in Vegas are gone, demolished. But the Fontainebleau still stands. The gigs, the romances, the films, “they really happed here and in the hotel next to us [Eden Roc],” Herman said. In a way, it is comforting that we can still visit these places. “It’s great for us,” continued Herman. “A lot of the photos we are going to display are of Frank shooting his movies around town. There are some famous scenes of him walking on the boardwalk, playing golf. This was his winter home. Not just the Fontainebleau, but Miami.” That photo of Sinatra strolling the boardwalk shows him surrounded by loyal faces. Sunbathers look out in awe. Just yards away from where the photo hangs, past the pools, we can open our eyes and see those same views of the ocean, breathe the same air, walk the same path. We can romanticize it. We can partially relive it. And if we dare, if even for a moment, we can seek out the intoxicating aroma of tobacco and whiskey and sweat and drama and passion. The smell of Sinatra’s Miami. u

CO U RTE S Y O F T H E F O N TA I N E B LE AU

“I caught him deep in thought moments before the curtain call.

JANE BIRKIN & THE “BIRKIN” BY HILARY GEARY ROSS

O P P O S I TE : R E P O RTE R S A S S O C I E S / G A M M A - K E Y S TO N E V I A G E T T Y I M A G E S

Photographer Kate Barry, Jane Birkin’s talented daughter, captures the allure of actress Sophie Marceau (who resembles a young Jane Birkin), while reviving the mystery of JeanAuguste-Dominique Ingres’ “La Grande Odalisque,” painted in 1814. Opposite: Portrait of Jane Birkin, taken in the 1960s. SEPTEMBER 2015 141

ONCE UPON A TIME, over three decades ago, Jean-Louis Dumas, the CEO of Hermès, was seated on a flight from Paris to London next to the beauteous actress Jane Birkin. Suddenly, Jane’s straw travelling bag tumbled to the floor, sending its precious contents all over the place and leaving the embarrassed goddess to clean up her mess, humbly, off the floor. The damsel in distress complained to Dumas that it was absolutely impossible to find a leather weekend bag she liked, so she had to resort to carrying an impractical, flimsy straw one. The kind CEO graciously solved her problem, coming to her rescue like a true knight in shining armor by creating a big comfy exquisitely crafted bag named just for her. What a compliment! The soft, handmade, rectangular bag, luxuriously lined in lambskin, had clean, classical lines punctuated with sleek, shiny hardware. A very practical lock and key was attached attached with a matching leather cord, so the contents could be tucked safely inside and never ever fall out again. The Hermès stamp was tastefully hidden under the flap—no flashy logos for the discreet Hermès brand. It did not take long for the world’s movers and shakers to fall in love 142 QUEST

with the deluxe bag. It was soon worn on the arms of the most glamouros and chicest women. The Birkin bag became the “it” bag of all “it” bags—carried by the most photogenic royals, celebrities, actresses, fashion editors, socialites, designers, and jet setters everywhere, all the time. Meanwhile, the ever-clever Hermès store would only produce a very few Birkins and never let their stores know when they would arrive, or even how many. Fashion-conscious ladies became desperate to get one (despite the hefty price tag). This savvy marketing ploy created a great mystique and allure for the Birkin and—as human nature has proven over and over again—we all desire what we cannot have or what is out of reach. Soon, there was a waitlist for the coveted bag and, adding to the frustration, the wait list was then closed. Thus the phrase “Birkin bag syndrome” was coined, taking the concept of “hard to get” to a new level. Even pre-owned or used Birkins sell for vast sums at such prestigious auction houses as Christies, Sothebys, and Heritage, as well as luxe websites like 1stdibs.com. The Birkin has become more than a bag—it has become a statement. It reminds me of the Magritte painting with “this is not a

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N ; O P P O S I TE : K E Y S TO N E / G E T T Y I M A G E S ; R E X U S A

“There’s no fun in a bag if it’s not kicked around so that it looks as if the cat’s been sitting on it—and it usually has. The cat may even be in it! I always put on stickers and beads and worry beads. You can get them from Greece, Israel, Palestine— from anywhere in the world.” —Jane Birkin

This page, clockwise from top left: Jane Birkin takes up photography in Cannes, 1975; Jane Birkin’s original Hermès “Birkin”; Birkin carrying her emblematic wicker basket; Birkin carrying her daughter Charlotte in Nice, 1972; Pattie Boyd, Jane Birkin, George Harrison, and Ringo Starr at Cannes Film Festival, 1968. Opposite page, clockwise from lower left: Valesca Guerrand-Hermès carrying a Birkin at Bergdorf’s, 2004; Hilary Geary Ross (carrying her Birkin) seated front row next to Eleanor Ylvisaker at Vera Wang’s Fall 2008 show; Kelly Ripa waking with her son, Hermès Birkin in tow; Aerin Lauder (with her black Birkin tucked beneath her seat) and Lauren duPont at Calvin Klein’s Spring 2008 show.

K E Y S TO N E - F R A N C E / G A M M A - K E Y S TO N E V I A G E T T Y I M A G E S

This page, clockwise from top: Jane Birkin, wearing an ensemble by designer Federico Forquet, photographed by Jeanloup Sieff in Rome for Harperâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bazaar, 1966; Birkin and Serge Gainsbourg on holiday in Cannes, August, 1972 (they married in Paris that September); Birkin and Serge Gainsbourg in SĂŠrieux Comme le Plaisir, directed by Robert Benayoun, 1974. Opposite page: Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin at Cannes Film Festival in 1974; Birkin lying on a roulette

GETT Y IMAGES

table, 1965 (inset).

pipe” written across the canvas.The Birkin is not just a bag, but a trophy, a prize, a status symbol, an obsession for the chic. (Victoria Beckham is said to have 100 of them!) Unfortunately, a “Grimm” little twist has been added to the Birkin fable: Jane Birkin, an animal rights activist, recently complained to Hermès about the treatment of the alligators being farmed for her namesake bag, and asked that her name be removed. I love animals and reptiles, too, but I can think of a thousand women who would happily have a Hermès bag named after them...including me! u This page: Jane Birkin holding a Bengal tiger cub at the zoo in the 1990s; Jamee Gregory and Hilary Geary at an Escada fashion show benefitting The Boys’ Club of New York, 2003 (note Hilary’s Hermès Birkin). Opposite page: Jane Birkin with her daughters Kate Barry, 7, (whose father was John Barry), and Charlotte Gainsbourg, 2, (whose father was Serge Gainsbourg), Aix-en-Provence, France, 1974.

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PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N . O P P O S I TE PA G E ; LE O N A R D D E R A E MY / S YG M A / CO R B I S

“Any bag that’s with me will take the same course as I will. It will take the same airplanes and will be squashed in the same way and will be used as a cushion in the airports.” —Jane Birkin

THE ANNUAL ROSE GARDEN DINNER THURSDAY, OCTOBER 8, 2015; 5:45–10:30 p.m.

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Rose Garden Dinner

On the occasion of the 25th Anniversary of the Rose Garden Dinner, the Board of The New York Botanical Garden salutes Julie Andrews and Stephen Scanniello for their enduring passion for roses. Please join us for this special evening in the Peggy Rockefeller Rose Garden.

Rose Garden Dinner Chair List Chairmen Friederike Biggs Maureen and Richard Chilton Janet and Tom Montag Wendy Keys Pels Katharine and William Rayner Marjorie and Jeffrey A. Rosen Gillian and Robert Steel Nonie and John Sullivan Julia and Hans Utsch Honorary Chairmen Mary and Marvin Davidson Anne and Tom Hubbard Eliot and Roly Nolen

Vice Chairmen Mr. and Mrs. Harry Burn III Mrs. Thomas H. Choate J. Barclay Collins and Kristina Durr Elizabeth B. Dater and Wm. Mitchell Jennings Jr. Amy Goldman Fowler and Cary Fowler Dotty and Lionel Goldfrank Robert F. Gossett, Jr. Mr. and Mrs. Henry P. Johnson Diane Katzin and Rick Kurnit Susan E. Lynch

Ann and Gil Maurer Mr. and Mrs. John R. Robinson David Rockefeller Mrs. Arthur Ross Mr. and Mrs. Charles M. Royce Julie and Nick Sakellariadis Carmen and John Thain Caroline A. Wamsler, Ph.D., and DeWayne N. Phillips List in formation as of August 18, 2015

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Thursday, October 8, 2015 marks the 25th Anniversary of the Rose Garden Dinner at The New York Botanical Garden. This annual event features the Botanical Garden’s world-famous Peggy Rockefeller Rose Garden, designed by celebrated landscape architect Beatrix Farrand in 1916, and fully realized in 1988 through a generous gift by Peggy and David Rockefeller. With nearly 700 cultivated varieties, the Rockefeller Rose Garden is one of the most spectacular displays at The New York Botanical Garden. Long lauded as one of the most beautiful rose gardens in America, it has been transformed in recent years into one of the most sustainable public rose gardens in the world. The Rose Garden Dinner is a celebration of the glorious autumn flowering of the Botanical Garden’s magnificent rose collection. The evening begins with cocktails in the Peggy Rockefeller Rose Garden, followed by an elegant dinner in the Garden Terrace Room. The event attracts 300 members of the Garden’s extended family, and raises $600,000 to support the Fund for Horticulture and the continued preservation and development of one of the world’s premier rose venues.

Julie Andrews is an admired stage, screen, and television legend, and avid rose gardener. Her portrayal of lovable flower seller Eliza Doolittle in the original stage production of “My Fair Lady” became an instant classic and earned her the honor of a rose in her name at the Royal Horticultural Society Chelsea Flower Show in London in 1992. A beautiful display of ‘Sally Holmes’–her favorite rose–will be a special feature in the Rose Garden on the night of the Dinner. Stephen Scanniello is renowned for his groundbreaking and influential work utilizing sustainable rose gardening practices in the acclaimed Peggy Rockefeller Rose Garden. As Curator, it has been his mission to grow a diversity of varieties of roses from around the world that are not only stunningly beautiful but disease resistant as well. An awardwinning garden designer, he also serves as President of the Heritage Rose Foundation and is a judge for the International Rose Trials in Europe and the United States.

For more information and tickets, please contact Thao Phan at 718.817.8774 or tphan@nybg.org or visit nybg.org/rosedinner

Rose Garden Dinner

The New York Botanical Garden and The Board wishes to honor and salute Julie Andrews and Stephen Scanniello for their enduring passion for roses.

THE ANNUAL ROSE GARDEN DINNER SEPTEMBER 18, 2014

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THE EDIBLE ACADEMY FAMILY GARDEN PICNIC SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 2015; 12:30–4:30 p.m.

Carla Hall Co-host of ABC’s The Chew

Andy Nusser Executive Chef & Owner Casa Mono and Bar Jamón, Tarry Lodge New Haven, Tarry Lodge Port Chester, and Tarry Lodge Westport

Anthony Sasso Chef de Cuisine Casa Mono and Bar Jamón

NYBG has been a leader in organic vegetable gardening education for nearly 60 years. Become a part of this long-standing tradition by bringing the whole family for an exciting culinary adventure in the Ruth Rea Howell Family Garden that supports a new initiative to promote healthful living. During this family-fun afternoon of outdoor discovery, join special guests Chef Carla Hall, co-host of ABC’s The Chew, along with chefs from Mario Batali’s acclaimed restaurants—Andy Nusser of Tarry Lodge and Anthony Sasso of Casa Mono—for live cooking demonstrations, workshops, and a delicious picnic. Kids of any age will enjoy kitchen crafts, organic vegetable gardening activities, live music, and so much more!

The Edible Academy Family Garden Picnic

Cooper Robertson

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The Edible Academy, and its planned state-of-the-art facility, will significantly expand the edible gardening program opportunities, so that twice as many children, parents, and teachers (from 50,000 to 100,000 annually) can learn how to grow organic fruits and vegetables, as well as make the important connections among plants, gardening, nutrition, and the benefits of a healthful lifestyle. For more information and tickets, please contact Heather Gries at 718.817.8657 or hgries@nybg.org or visit nybg.org/familypicnic All proceeds from the Family Garden Picnic benefit NYBG’s Edible Academy, hub of the children’s organic vegetable gardening program. Support provided by The Edible Academy Family Garden Picnic Chair List Chairmen Christina and Laurent de Marval Emma and Todd Goergen Sharon and Bill Jacob Nathalie Kaplan Annie and James Lansing Kimberly and Jean Putzer Julia and Ted Weld Grandparents Chairmen Anne and Tom Hubbard Edie and Hamilton Kean Susan Lynch Eliot and Wilson Nolen

Honorary Chairman Jill Joyce Founding Chairmen Julie and Nick Sakellariadis Honorary Chairman of the Edible Academy Committee Mario Batali

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B FA . CO M ; PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

BROWN

THE YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST BY ELIZABETH QUINN BROWN

Leandra Medine attended the opening of the “Vibrant Beauty” exhibition on August 22.

From left: Jesse Warren; Alex Adler and Ben Fink Shapiro; Lindsay Cohen and Marc Rofsky.

▲ OPENING OF BEN FINK SHAPIRO EXHIBITION

▼ SOLID & STRIPED AT THE SURF LODGE

BEN FINK SHAPIRO INVITED his nearest and dearest—and their nearest and dearest—to toast “Vibrant Beauty” at Mark Humphrey Gallery (95 Main Street in Southampton) on August 22. Among the PYTs that showed to support the accomplished, fashionable photographer whose credits include Quest and Q: Alex Adler, Lindsay Cohen, Leandra Medine, Lily Saltzberg, Brittany Schall, Lizzie Tisch, and Jesse Warren (owner of Tenet: 91 Main Street in Southampton). The exhibition is scheduled from now to September 3, so be sure to visit and, you know, pop into Tenet for an afternoon that’s as vibrant as it is beautiful.

SEAN AVERY (THE FORMER New York Ranger) and Hilary Rhoda (the model) fêted their collaboration “Solid & Striped x Hilary + Sean” on August 8. Guests who were seen bopping about the Surf Lodge in Montauk included: Kelly Bensimon, Andy Cohen, and Natalie Joos. They were treated to cocktails and a BBQ, plus dessert from Good Humor. The couple—who are to be married in the Hamptons on October 10—teamed with Solid & Striped (the brand of swimwear for men and women) to create a capsule collection inspired by their lives in SoHo and Southampton. Et voilà! Can you say Young & The Guest List? u

From left: Andre Saraiva and Tommy Saleh; Isaac Ross, Michelle Flesh, and Daniel Laub; Peter Davis and Kelly Bensimon; Sean Avery and Hilary Rhoda.

SNAPSHOT A L N T I S S E N T E I U Q

G SPRIN S C I C LA S S

L E S T Y E G ISSU SPRIN 0 > $5.0 2007

This page, clockwise from left: The cover of the Spring 2007 issue of Q magazine featured

S TIN DR ES 63 PIN K SA SI, 19 LD SC AA

BY AR NO

a pink satin dress by Arnold Scaasi; the designer with two models at his studio in Paris, April 28, 1972; Liz Smith,

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zine-d

igital.

com

Scaasi, Bette Midler, and Parker

REMEMBERING ARNOLD SCAASI DESIGNER ARNOLD SCAASI—which was his given surname, Isaacs, spelled backward—once conceded, “I am definitely not a minimalist.” The flamboyant designer was known for dressing first ladies from Mamie Eisenhower to Laura Bush, and film stars from Elizabeth Taylor to Barbra Streisand. Scaasi specialized in made-to-order clothes, favoring lavish, brilliantly colored fabrics, and embellishments such as feathers, sequins, and fine embroidery. “Fashion, it’s really about feeling good,” he told the Associated Press in 2002, when an exhibit of his work was on display at the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology. “It should be fun to get dressed. I like exciting and pretty clothes that help women feel exciting and pretty.” Scaasi, a native of Montreal, studied at the Cotnoir-Capponi School of Design and completed his education at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris. After school, he took an apprenticeship at the House of Paquin before moving to New York City to work with designer Charles James. In the early ’50s, Scaasi’s designs began appearing in a variety of print ads, including one photographed by Edgar de Evia for General Motors. During the shoot, Scaasi met interior designer Robert 160 QUEST

Dening, who suggested he reverse his last name to provide Italian flair. Under his new name, Scaasi achieved the December 1955 cover of Vogue, which helped launch a ready-to-wear line the following year. He won the prestigious Coty American Fashion Critics Award in 1958, and the Council of Fashion Designers of America Lifetime Achievement Award in 1996. A bantam and charismatic figure, “Arnold” was well loved by his “Scaasi girls.” In 2007, he published a memoir, Women I Have Dressed (and Undressed). In it, Scaasi recalls that he once offered Jackie Kennedy 20 couture dresses at wholesale prices, only to have her refuse on the grounds that she had never paid for an article of clothing. In 2009, Scaasi donated his archives, including more than 100 garments, to the Museum of Fine Arts Boston. He would have received an estimated six-digit sum for selling the archives, but instead he chose to donate them. “I was afraid it would wind up in a vault somewhere, and it would never be seen,” he said at the time, according to WWD. The donation included the sheer black tulle overblouse and pant ensemble sported by Barbra Streisand at the 1969 Academy Awards, Joan Crawford’s black sequined spiral gown, and a gray flannel dress Scaasi had designed for Brooke Astor. Arnold Scaasi died of cardiac arrest at New York– Presbyterian Hospital on August 4. He was 85 years old. Scaasi is survived by his beloved husband, Parker Ladd. The two were together for over 50 years. —Elizabeth Meigher

A P P H OTO / A L I S O N LE R R I C K ; PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

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ranging from $1 to $8 million. Sales by appointment begin Summer 2014.

2 1 2 . 3 8 1 . 2 5 1 9 1 9 P P T R I B E C A .C O M

The complete offering terms are in an offering plan available from sponsor. File no. CD13-0284. All rights to content, photographs, and graphics reserved to ABN Realty, LLC. 3D illustrations courtesy of McAuley Digital. Artist renderings and interior decoration, finishes, appliances, and furnishings are provided for illustrative purposes only. Artist renderings reflect the planned scale and spirit of the building. Sponsor reserves the right to make substitutions of materials, equipment, fixtures, and finishes in accordance with the terms of the offering plan. Equal Housing Opportunity.

21 FLO ORS FACING THE FUTURE

E XC LU S I V E M A R K E T I N G & S A L E S

www.cartier.us

ROTONDE DE CARTIER L A R G E D AT E , R E T R O G R A D E S E C O N D T I M E Z O N E , A N D D AY/ N I G H T I N D I C ATO R 1 9 0 4 - F U M C THIS ROTONDE DE CARTIER WATCH COMBINES THREE WATCHMAKING COMPLICATIONS INTO THE MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT 1904-FU MC FOR A BOLD AESTHETIC WITH CLEAN LINES AND REFINED DETAILS. ESTABLISHED IN 1847, CARTIER CREATES EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES THAT COMBINE DARING DESIGN AND WATCHMAKING SAVOIR-FAIRE.