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106 100
CONTENTS Fall Fashion i ssue 90
COVERING THE TOWN
Vogue writer Elise Taylor is a girl about town—not
to mention the world—and proves the perfect model for fall’s latest fashions. daniel cappello, photographed by Julie skarratt
directed and styled by
100
THE REAL POLO: FOREVER CLASSIC
106
QUEST STYLE
114
KATIE STRIKES A POSE, IN POSEN Katie Holmes is a modern muse both on-screen and off, especially for her fashion friend Zac Posen. by daniel cappello
120
BACK TO SCHOOL
124
AN ATELIER TO SHARE
128
AN AUSTRALIAN ACCENT ON ITALIAN TRADITION
When Ralph Lauren launched his Polo label 50 years ago, he ended up launching an empire. by daniel cappello Some of our iconic favorites of yesteryear, from Princess Diana to JFK, endure as the definition of modern-day chic. by elizabeth Meigher
Celebrating the month of September with some of the most quintessential campus looks and classic prep. by elizabeth Meigher
Nova Octo introduces couture fashion rentals to extend the life of the fashion world’s most exquisite pieces. by ann loynd burton
making menswear both luxurious and comfortable.
132
P. Johnson is a modern tailor daniel cappello
by
BACK TO BOSTON J.McLaughlin travels to Bean Town, the birthplace of prep, to show off its Fall ’18 collection. by ann l oynd burton
114
152 60
64
CONTENTS C olumns
64
28
SOCIAL DIARY
60
HARRY BENSON
62
TAKI
64
FRESH FINDS
68
ARTS
72
BOOKS
74
PHOTOGRAPHY
76
SPIRITS
78
REAL ESTATE
Chatting with Palm Beach duo Liza Pulitzer and Whitney McGurk.
80
OPEN HOUSE
A visit to the magical Guildford estate in Wyndmoor, Pennsylvania.
84
OPEN HOUSE
Touring Klemm Real Estate’s Longview residence in Washington, Connecticut.
86
REAL ESTATE
Douglas Elliman acquires the acclaimed Boston firm Otis & Ahearn.
88
SOCIAL CALENDAR
148
YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST
152
SNAPSHOT
A long, sizzling summer in the city of dreams comes to a hault. by DaviD PatriCk Columbia Our photographer looks back on Valentino’s fashionable 46th birthday fête at Studio 54.
Touching on Ernest Hemingway’s greatest works—and controversies. Fall is calling for serious autumnal threads.
by
by
taki theoDoraCoPulos
Daniel CaPPello
anD
elizabeth meigher
A conversation with Sean Stone on forging his own legacy in the film business. by ChuCk Pfeifer Alexandra Villard de Borchgrave taps into ancient wisdom for today.
by
ann loynD burton
The J. Paul Getty Museum showcases a century of fashion icons.
by
Daniel CaPPello
How Bacardí Rum is redefining a legendary Caribbean spirit for 2018. by ann loynD burton brooke kelly
by
by
brooke kelly
by
b rooke k elly
As we transition from summer to fall, a listing of notable galas and events. On the party scene in the Hamptons and Charleston.
by
b rooke k elly
How the American illustrator Russell Patterson “invented” flapper fashion. by Daniel CaPPello
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EDITOR’S LETTER
Clockwise from left: Patrick Johnson, founder of the Australian-based men’s fashion label P. Johnson; Ralph Lauren, who is celebrating 50 years in the fashion industry; our cover model and muse, Elise Taylor, takes a break from the shoot to catch up with the New York Times in a Ralph Lauren shirt, Harry Winston diamonds, and Alexander McQueen glasses; the actress Katie Holmes was Zac Posen’s muse for his Fall-Winter 2018 collection.
26 QUEST
Elise’s genuine beauty shone through even on break. Speaking of the natural, all-American muse, Zac Posen recently found his in longtime friend Katie Holmes. This fall, forget the silver screen: the actress’s starring role is modeling Posen’s fashions. Turn to page 114 for more—and muse on. u
Daniel Cappello ON THE COVER: Vogue writer Elise Taylor pictured in West Chelsea, New York City, wearing a silk Ralph Lauren shirt, Manolo Blahnik heels, and Uniqlo jeans. Part of “Covering The Town,” produced and styled by Daniel Cappello, photographed by Julie Skarratt (page 90).
CO U RTE S Y O F P. J O H N S O N ; V I C TO R S K R E B N E S K I ; J U L I E S K A R R AT T; DA N I E L K I N G
WE’VE DONE A LOT of musing about fashion lately for this annual Fall Fashion Issue. As the retail landscape continues to shift and niche brands continue to propagate, especially online, we’re constantly looking for “the best”—the best brands that offer the best quality at the best value. Some are reliable stalwarts like Ralph Lauren, while others are refreshing new finds, like Australia’s Patrick Johnson, who is updating classic men’s tailoring with a livable, breathable new twist. There are services like Nova Octo, also profiled in this issue, who are making it easier to access high-end couture, as well as the steadfast suppliers of chic daywear, like J.McLaughlin. There may be a little-known label or breakout designer right under our noses, and we’ll find that out soon enough at New York Fashion Week, which is about to kick off September in style. You never know what might surprise you walking down the runway. But back to musing—and muses—because fashion always has its muses. For this issue, ours happens to be the effervescent Elise Taylor, a staff writer for Vogue who managed to find time in between summer trips to China, Monaco, and Greece to model some fall fashions that caught our eye (and, we hope, yours). You know you’ve picked the perfect muse when she makes downtime on a photo shoot look glamorous. Kicking back to catch up on the Times, but still dripping in Harry Winston diamonds and a classic Ralph Lauren button-down,
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NEW YORK SO CIAL DIARY WHAT REALLY HAD begun to feel like the long, hot summer is over, no matter what the weatherman forecasts. We’re back in New York City, the city of dreams. I spent the summer mainly staying close to home—a choice that is sensible and practical since I do not pos-
sess a hut in the country, or out by the sea. Mine’s by the park. Perhaps it’s the onset of my maturity—I think about things like that these days, but I really enjoy it. The river is just down the block from me and often sends its seafed breezes our way, as well as giving everyone a chance to
be in the sun near the water. You hear the foghorns of the tugs warning the motorboats and jet skis to vamoose or else… There are the occasional sirens of ambulances, or fire trucks following up on what are almost always, thankfully, false alarms. You might hear one of the motor-
cycle society members revving it up just before they blast off down the avenue to the stop sign on East 79th Street. (There are a couple of really beautiful, fully equipped Harleys in the nabe, all black silver reflecting in the neighborhood. They’re modern art explained: masterpieces.) In
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A N AT I O N A L M U S E U M O F R AC I N G A N D H A L L O F FA M E ’ S A N N UA L B A L L I N S A R ATO G A
John Hendrickson
the otherwise (fairly) quiet streetscene, you may hear a dog barking, any time, night or day. I always look to see. The canine usually barking at another dog: “So Fido, whattaya think of this damned weather?!” barks Sparky. Fido growls. And everybody moves on. Otherwise it’s very quiet in summertime, and often with barely any traffic at all by the mid-evening. In daylight, the sidewalks are populated by all kinds moving along— business people, domestic staff, business professionals, delivery people, construction workers; neighbors walking dogs; mothers/fathers/nan30 QUEST
Gretchen Jackson, Linda Miller and Stella Thayer
Kenny and Lisa Troutt with Javier and Abby Castellano
nies headed to the park with their little ones in strollers, on scooters, and tiny two wheelers for the grown-up four year olds. We’re all ages around these parts, from newest to the eldest. A few years ago there was a guy named Al Gordon who lived around the corner at 10 Gracie Square. Mr. Gordon was—to these eyes—a much older man, and indeed, he died nine years ago at 107. I was first aware of him in the early ’90s when I was staying with a friend at 10 Gracie. Then, in his early ’90s, he did look like a much older man, and yet he moved energetically like a man half his real age;
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very tall—probably six-four, six-five—long-legged, and even at that highly advanced age, he had a strong, quick gait to his walk. Watching him move along the pavement, you’d know he was a real go-getter. In fact, he was famous on Wall Street. John Whitehead, once a head of Goldman Sachs, said of Mr. Gordon, who for decades was head of Kidder Peabody, that he was also a famous business getter. In our neighborhood, however, he was famous as a jogger. Major. He once ran all the way from 10 Gracie Square to LaGuardia Airport. Eight miles by roadway.
He was then in his seventies or eighties. Or was it a jog home? I don’t know; I heard the story second hand—–although it was well known among this man’s friends and neighbors. In other words, he was amazing. He worked on Wall Street beginning in 1925 right out of Harvard Business School, and lived most of those years in an apartment at 10 Gracie. Unlike a lot of his brethren who had their limousines awaiting their morning emergence from their buildings, Mr. Gordon preferred to walk down to the corner of 84th and East End and hail a cab. I saw him do it when he
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A was 100! We spoke a few times when he was in the park taking a break, sitting on a bench by the river. Our brief conversations were about dogs (I was walking mine). We were not acquainted but I knew about him and the kind of man he was, mainly from his business as head of the board at 10 Gracie. For years when he held that office, it was his responsibility to vet new applicants who had bid on an apartment there. 10 Gracie is famous on the Upper East Side, mainly because of its grand apartments and its roster of big name occupants since it opened in the early 1930s. In those years
there was no FDR Drive, but just shoreline, and 10 Gracie had piers for its owners’ private boats. Jock Whitney, for example, had an apartment there, often traveling in his cabin cruiser directly to it from Greentree, his estate on Long Island Sound. As head of his building’s board, Mr. Gordon, the serious man that he was, was also a serious vetter of applicants. Because he began his day early, all interviews of potential residents took place at eight in the morning. Whatever inconvenience that hour was for the applicant, applicants were informed that 8 a.m. was the rule for Mr. Gordon and there were no exceptions.
It so happened back in the early 1970s that a forty-something Pete Peterson, then a famous Wall Street investment banker who had been appointed Secretary of Commerce under Richard Nixon, made a bid on an apartment at 10 Gracie. The building has large apartments with ample space, and all overlooking the East River and the boroughs of Queens and Brooklyn, and Mr. Peterson and his then wife Sally had four or five children. However, when it came to Mr. Peterson’s interview, as he was living in Washington at the time, he put in a request to move his date with Al Gordon to a later hour since he’d
be traveling up from Washington for it. His request was denied: 8 a.m. or never. And so, President Nixon’s Secretary of Commerce came up to New York the night before to make the meeting. Surely the two men knew or knew of each other as they were both “stars” in the financial community. However, Al Gordon was 20 years older than Pete Peterson, and Pete Peterson was brought up knowing to respect that. With the quiet summer intown social calendar, I’ve had the luxury of more time to read. First I took on Caroline Weber’s Proust’s Duchess— the biography of three women in Paris in the last quarter
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of the 19th century who were the inspiration for central characters in Marcel Proust’s À la recherche du temps perdu (Remembrance of Things Past) characters. A 600 page tome might have scared me away (time-wise), although I found myself bound to Weber’s brilliant storytelling, and finished it wanting more (the author is working on a second volume). Finishing the Caroline Weber tome, I took up another “biography” coincidentally of the same locale (Paris) a century later: Christopher Petkanas’s Loulou & Yves: The Untold Story of Loulou de La Falaise and the House of Saint 34 QUEST
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Laurent (St. Martin’s Press). The evolution. Same crowd, 100 years on; our times. The Weber history is about the women of that time, and Loulou & Yves is about the world of women (and men too, of course, although the women are certainly more interesting) of this time. The book was produced in the style of Jean Stein and George Plimpton’s Edie, the life of Warhol party celebrity and socialite Edie Sedgwick. Like Proust’s Duchess, it’s a big book physically, with a wide variety of people, (including many whose lives were intertwined with Warhol and Sedgwick’s world)
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whom Petkanas interviewed. It’s about the fashion world in the last quarter of the 20th century. For beginners. If it’s fashion, then it’s about the times, our times. Its characters—leading and otherwise—were all related to that business which is also the business of celebrity and public relationships and corporate splendor and money and sex and drugs and sex and money. You don’t need to have any curiosity about them. I didn’t. I had no opinion one way or the other although of course I knew that St. Laurent was enormously successful and good at it. I had no
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opinion about Loulou whose name was only familiar to me. But it is a fascinating study of personalities as well as a time and a place that now looks like Versailles must have looked at the time of the monarchy (encroaching). I’ve been reading it randomly because it’s even interesting that way. Gives you things to think about as well as getting a picture of a time and a place and people (a century after the Proust’s Duchess girls in the same place). It wasn’t that long ago in our memories but it was definitely a lifetime ago historically. Maybe a century ago. You see one’s life as ulti-
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A mately a creation; what you do with it. What one does with it, and why. Petkanas interviewed scores, maybe hundreds of people who had some kind of relationship with the two main characters. You’re sitting in on their memories and recounting of life of the two, and the main characters around them, and more, famous, world-famous characters, as well as a groundswell of people you’ve never heard of before but who counted, big time, for a variety of reasons that could fill a few novels (or better, memoirs). Loulou and Yves lived in a world far removed from the existence of most of us. Their creative psyches were almost touch-sensitive, and the great fortune they created richly benefitted a number of people including Yves and his business partner/companion Pierre Bergé and, most
specifically, Berge’s heir, an American landscape designer named Madison Cox. The “great fortune,” unfortunately did not much benefit Loulou de LaFalaise. However, Loulou is our heroine, an unusual one at that, right out of The Perils of Pauline in digital. André Leon Talley, who knew her well put it clearly: “She was a cross between (Truman Capote’s) Holly Golightly and (Christopher Isherwood’s) Sally Bowles. The word “decadent” passes through some interviews and also through your mind as you read along. But Petkanas’s technique for telling you the story of these two fascinating individuals—and their lives, their loves, their families, and their compulsive habits—gives you a variety of angles and details and images so that even if you don’t “relate,” you can’t help observing. They were highly
creative, frequently spoiled, brilliant, weird, compulsive, drug inflicted, charming, other-worldly people. It’s a story about the world we’re living in now, a century away from Proust but the same territory marking our times versus theirs. Their social sphere was wide and often business related as well. Many world-famous names come into play as well as extraordinary characters who lived the high life as well as not a little of the low. One remarkable character who was closely associated with Yves St. Laurent in business as well as at times social, a man who recognized and encouraged his talent with work and backing, was the legendary European aristo whose own life is the stuff of fame and fortune and even legend, the Baron Alexis de Rede (di-redday). His story I recount here.
From my Social Diary, March 1998: London. “Went to the theater one night to see A Letter of Resignation with Edward Fox as Prime Minister Harold Macmillan during the Profumo Affair. If you’re under 45, you probably never heard of it. At the time it was the biggest deal in the media on both sides of the Atlantic. John Profumo— able, smart—resigned his cabinet post because he lied to Commons when he denied he had an affair with a luscious, leggy 21-year-old strumpet named Christine Keeler. He’d lied for the same reason most men (and very often women) lie (as is their right): to protect their mates, their families, and their own skin. The morning before the performance we saw, the British papers were blaring the story about Clinton and Monica. After the play we went to dinner at Mark’s, the very
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chic, very exclusive (hip rich/ Euro, as these things go), and intimate (small dining rooms—eight tables, deep red flock walls, plush red velvet banquettes) private club belonging to Mark Birley in an old London townhouse. Among the diners that night were Linda Wachner, the then but now deposed Warnaco tycooness, Prince Pavlos of Greece, and at the table next to ours, the Baron Alexis de Rede, who had also come from the same theater as we. The baron is the perfect blend of Proust, Balzac, and the modern age. He is one of the great social figures of Paris, and indeed, all of Europe. 38 QUEST
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I first noticed him taking his seat in the theater that night just before curtain. He is one of those people who looks like he’s somebody famous. A man, probably in his ’70s, he has a swarthiness from what looked like a fading tan; jowlish, with heavy-lidded drooping eyes, a high forehead with a full head of dark brown hair brushed back and a cashmere overcoat casually slung like a cape over his just slightly stooped shoulders. He seemed to lead the way through his row, like an unfazed and laconic ram followed by its entourage. His life has been superficially alluded to many times in magazines all over the world. He
lives in the l’Hotel Lambert on the Ile St. Louis in Paris, a building he shares with Guy de Rothschild, in what is reported to be one of the greatest apartments in Paris. After dinner, we returned to Claridge’s where we were staying. Just as I was getting out of my cab, a black Rolls limousine pulled up to the hotel front, and out came the Baron, who entered the hotel, and then the lift, at the same time I did—just the two of us, someone I’d seen three times in the course of the evening, someone I knew of but didn’t know. When the lift got to my floor, I, a stranger to him, turned, said goodnight, and
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he very politely bid me goodnight.” July 15, 2004. When I got back to New York from that London trip, in 1998, I told my friend Johnny Galliher about seeing de Rede, knowing that if he wished, he could tell me something about the man that one might not read about in the papers or a glossy style magazine. Indeed, my hunch was right, for John knew the baron very well and for a long time. Alexis de Rede, who was a contemporary, a few years younger than Galliher, was born Oskar Dieter von Rosenberg-Rede on February 4, 1922, in Zurich, son of
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A a Jewish banker from Austro-Hungary named Oskar von Rosenberg who had become a citizen of Lichtenstein and was one of the last to be given a title, Baron de Rede, by Emperor Franz Joseph of Austria, shortly before the monarch’s death (and the end of the Hapsburg empire) in 1916. Jews possessing titles are not unheard of in European history, although many, especially the English (who have titled Jews as well) are often skeptical of their legitimacy. The Austrian Emperor believed that Jews of prominence and achievement deserved the title as much as their non-Jewish coun-
terparts. De Rede’s title also did not appear in the Almanach de Gotha, fueling the skepticism of its validity, and followed young Alexis Rosenberg throughout his long life. Although on his mother’s side, he was German-Jewish, the boy was brought up Protestant, with his mother, a brother and a sister in a large hotel apartment in Zurich. For some reason, his father did not live with them, only visiting at times, and living mainly in Vienna. In 1931, when the boy was nine, his mother, ill with leukemia, traveled to Vienna to see his father. It was then she learned her husband had a mistress in Paris. Whether it
was the shock of the revelation or her disease, she died three weeks later. After the death of the young boy’s mother, he was sent to Le Rosey, possibly the most famously exclusive boarding school in Europe with its long alumni roster of sons of royals, celebrities, and billionaires, with a reputation for preparing their students for university. In 1938, Hitler invaded Austria and the following year, when Alexis was 17, Oskar von Rosenberg, suffering unbearable financial reversals, killed himself, leaving his children with a modest income from a small insurance policy. That same year, a Ger-
man schoolmate at Le Rosey informed Alexis that he could no longer speak to him because he was a Jew. Alexis’s Protestant upbringing could bring nothing to bear on the private pleasure of bigotry that infests so many of us. Perhaps it was the early loss of his mother, or the staunch ally of youth, but all evidence points to the fact that the boy was naturally clever with a determined consciousness of what he liked and what he dreamed of. He also had the presence of mind to forsake the dangerous situation looming in Europe at the end of the 1930s. With his tiny monthly stipend of about $200 (or about 10
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times that in today’s currency), he booked passage on an oceanliner and headed for America to seek his fortune. A few months in New York, and dreams unrealized, the ambitious young man went west to Hollywood where he got a job working in an antique shop in the Melrose district of what is now West Hollywood. Circumstances already hinted at what turned out to be a given: he was homosexual and drawn to men who were older than he. He was also a striver: in Los Angeles, he soon learned that a European accent gave him a mystique. It implied sophisti42 QUEST
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cation, intellect as well as an attitude about sex far more “live and let live” than the puritanical American code. He befriended, among others, Elsie de Wolfe, Lady Mendl, and Salvador Dalí, the surrealist. Life in Los Angeles was nevertheless insufficient for the willowy, good-looking well-dressed boy who would soon call himself the baron de Rede. He returned to New York with its growing population of rich Europeans fleeing the Nazis, and there he remained until after the War ended in Europe. One night in a restaurant in New York, he was
introduced to a very rich Chilean named Arturo Lopez-Wilshaw. Lopez Wilshaw lived in Paris where he had a lavishly decorated house in Neuilly, and was famous for his extravagant costume entertainments. He was married to a woman, also a cousin, named Patricia Lopez-Huici. Mme. Lopez-Wilshaw was also the great-niece of the woman who became the greatest patron of modernism of the 20th century—a friend of Sargent, Whistler, Picasso, Cocteau, Diaghilev, and Stravinsky, among others: Eugenia Errazuriz. The meeting of Lo-
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pez-Wilshaw and the young and ambitious de Rede was fortuitous, made so, ironically by an American—the notorious playboy and heir to the Woolworth fortune, Jimmy Donahue. Donahue, who was also the first cousin of Barbara Hutton, was homosexual and often outrageously so. He later gained fame as the “lover” of the Duchess of Windsor. Lopez-Wilshaw was also homosexual. This was wellknown within his set, and shortly before his meeting de Rede, he had been keeping a handsome and willowy young Englishman named Tony Pawson. Pawson was remark-
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A able for, among other things, his “English complexion,” fair and pink as a poodle, the result, it was said, of his mother constantly waxing his face just as puberty was butting in, so that the postpubescent boy never really had to shave in the morning. As a protégé of Sr. Lopez-Wilshaw, Mr. Pawson was installed in a beautiful Paris apartment in a hôtel particulier full of 18th-century French furniture worth a king’s ransom, including a bed that was said to have belonged to Marie Antoinette. The hôtel was said to have an ominous history, once having belonged to a courtier of Louis XVI, and whose head ended up on one
of the spikes of the fence by its front gate. It was while living there that the fair-faced Pawson met the bad boy American Jimmy Donahue who was immediately smitten. Donahue, as famously willful as he was rich, soon persuaded Pawson to dump Lopez-Wilshaw and move to New York where he’d really show the Englishman a life of luxury and good times. When Pawson departed for New York, his patron, Sr. Lopez-Wilshaw, was unaware of his long term future plans. It wasn’t until he was visiting Pawson in New York that he learned the truth: Jimmy Donahue had stolen his boy.
It was also on that trip, by stroke of good fortune, in more ways than one, that Lopez-Wilshaw first met the Baron de Rede, formerly Alexis Rosenberg. Infuriated by Pawson’s Donahue-fueled deception, Lopez-Wilshaw returned to Paris, ordered vans to go around to the ill-fated l’hotel particulier and empty the ungrateful Pawson’s fabulous apartment of all the furniture he’d given him. Except for Marie Antoinette’s bed. By French law, you cannot take the bed. Meanwhile, back in New York, the naughty fickle fellow Donahue dropped the milk-skinned Tony Pawson and sent him back to Paris.
Pawson arrived only to discover that he’d been relieved of his life and livelihood. The shock on his face when he entered his now empty apartment was the talk of Paris for days afterwards. At about the same time, Alexis de Rede arrived in Paris in the company of Elsie de Wolfe, Lady Mendl, returning from her wartime exile in Beverly Hills to take up residence once again at her house in Versailles. The days following the defeat of the Nazis were heady ones in Paris where many Americans and Europeans returned to the chic social life. Arturo Lopez-Wilshaw was said to have offered Alexis de
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Rede one million dollars to come to Paris. Whether or not that was true, it is not known, but the two began a relationship that was to continue for the rest of Lopez-Wilshaw’s life. The Lopez-Wilshaws, armed with a great fortune derived from guano— which is literally nitrogen derived from fermented batshit mined from caves the family owned in South America, and turned into fertilizer—lived like royalty. Young de Rede, not quite acceptable to Paris society, at first became known for his style. He had exceptionally narrow feet, and had his shoes made for him by a man named Cleverly in London. Soon all of the beau monde in Paris were going over to London to order shoes from Mr. Cleverly that looked as sleek and narrow as de Rede’s. This was an age where the wealth
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of the very rich stretched to royal proportions in war-torn Europe. The Lopez-Wilshaws and Alexis de Rede became a familiar trio entertaining at lavish costume balls in Neuilly, on the Lopez-Wilshaw yacht, La Gaviota, which was decorated by Geoffrey Geffroy, cruising for months at a time all over the Mediterranean and Europe. They were often in Venice at the Grand Hotel, at the Palace, as well as in residence at various rented mansions at the famous watering holes of the era. This was not quite a relationship of a man keeping a wife as well as a lover. For although friends like writer Nancy Mitford referred to de Rede as “La Pompadour de nos jours” and loved calling into question the legitimacy of his title, and Anglo-American diarist Chips Channon referred to him as the “Eugene de
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Rastignac of modern Paris,” (a reference to the hero in Balzac’s Père Goriot), in a few years, it also became known that Alexis de Rede had what people were referring to as “The Midas Touch.” He had become active in the management of the Lopez-Wilshaw fortune, and was making it even greater than it was when he first crossed that threshold. This reality drew him far more notice than his narrow shoes by Cleverly and his sartorial style. It brought him respect, and awe, smartly packaged in a kind le dernier chic. In 1949, the 27-year-old baron moved into the magnificent apartment in the 48 QUEST
l’hotel Lambert on the Ile St. Louis. And although Lopez-Wilshaw continued to officially maintain his residence with his wife in Neuilly, he actually lived much of his time with de Rede at the Lambert. By the early 1950s, Alexis de Rede was an important influence in Paris society. His luncheons and dinners at the Hotel Lambert were legendary for their cuisine, luxury, and décor. No matter who they were, people came away raving about them as incomparable to anything they’d experienced anywhere with anybody. He was also an early booster of Cardin and St. Laurent, hiring them to cre-
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ate costumes for him for his famous balls. In 1956 for de Rede’s Bal des Têtes, YSL made many of the headdresses for the guests, giving his fledgling career an early and important boost. In 1969, the baron gave his most spectacular evening, the Oriental Ball. The grand staircase of his apartment, said by some to be the grandest ever seen in a private house, was lined with Nubian “slaves,” scantily clad men bearing torches, while two turbaned “pashas” were ensconced on two enormous papier-mâché elephants in the hotel’s courtyard. In 1962, Arturo Lo-
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pez-Wilshaw died and left his fortune divided by two— half to his wife Patricia and half to Alexis de Rede. It was after that that de Rede joined Prince Rupert zu Loewenstein and others in taking control of the Bank Leopold, Joseph & Sons, where he served as deputy chairman. He and Loewenstein also engaged in managing the fortune of the Rolling Stones. He also used his connoisseurship in the founding of Artemis, a business which acquired and exhibited works of art, with many museums as clients. It was after the death of his great patron, that Alexis de Rede forged another
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A great friendship – this time with Marie-Hélène de Rothschild, the glamorous wife of Guy. The two joined forces to give some of the greatest costume balls of the 1970s at the Rothschilds’ Chateau de Ferrieres outside Paris. The guest list became more celebrated in terms of the glitterati with guests such as the then most famous movie stars in the world Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor, the pop artist Andy Warhol as well as limousine loads of billionaires, titled European nobility and royalty. Marie-Hélène de Rothschild became ill in the 1980s with cancer, severely curtailing the glittering social life
of her friend the baron, who devotedly sat vigil through her darkest hours. Although after her death he seemed to some a lonely figure, and indeed, he appeared so to these unknowing eyes that night in London seven years ago, he continued his active social life and entertaining, if indeed on a quieter, less populated scale. Princess Michael of Kent recalled the baron visiting London in July 2000 for her son Frederick Windsor’s 21st birthday: “The dress code of ‘Fête Champêtre’—I was copying the Louis XIV scheme of entertaining the court in the month of June before Versailles was fin-
ished, when he gave wonderful outdoor parties in green, leafy bowers. Perhaps Alexis, who was a great one for dressing up and had given some of the best fancy dress parties of my life, was feeling shy or unsure about the English, but he came wearing a magnificent turban and brooch and a dazzling cloak which he clutched the entire night at his neck. I thought he had a sore throat, but I discovered he was covering up his black tie dinner suit. He was so afraid to be seen in a dinner jacket when every other man was in 18th-century costume.” Princess Michael also recalled that “When we went to
theatre, he would always take a box on the side, and in later years, often fall asleep. When the curtain came down, he would recall the whole play, yet would never admit to having seen it already—or read it. I never could find out how he did it.” In the last few years, the baron had been having pulmonary problems for which he had been hospitalized. Recently, however, he had been feeling better. In late June (2004) he attended the wedding of a friend’s granddaughter in the South of France. Returning to Paris, the following week, preparing to attend a dinner on July 8th, the Baron died. u
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Bob and Julie Haley with Doug Bradbury
52 QUEST
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The Top Doctor Is In by Castle Connolly Top Doctors Q: Is it possible to ‘bend the aging curve’ with new advancements in Orthopedic Sports Medicine? A: Driven by the fast paced, high financed world of professional sports, orthopedic surgeons within sports medicine have risen to the challenge in developing techniques to keep those with a physically demanding and highly active lifestyle, going stronger and harder. Today more than ever, there is a great emphasis on staying youthful, both in appearance and ability.
D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A FITCH’S CORNER HORSE TRIALS TOA STS ITS 25TH ANNIVERSARY IN MILLBROOK
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Donald and Barbara Tober with Cece Cord
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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A ANIMAL RESCUE FUND’S “BOW WOW MEOW” BALL IN WAINSCOTT
Noah McAskill and Annie Berryhill
Roberta Fabiano and Peter Duchin
Kathy Rayner and Katharina Otto-Bernstein 56 QUEST
Peter Marino
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Pietro Cicognani and Katherine Bryan with Daniel and Estrellita Brodsky
Alan and Christina McDonald
Bill Rudin with Veronica and Ray Kelly
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PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N
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David Thalman and Lynda Lindh
Sophie, Henry and Alison Wilson 58 QUEST
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IT SEEMS LIKE YESTERDAY MAY 11, 1978. New York City. Studio 54. Midnight. The extraordinary fantasy celebration for Valentino Garavani’s 46th birthday was orchestrated in just two days by Valentino’s longtime friend and business partner, Giancarlo Giammetti. Valentino was dressed as Ringmaster of the Fantasy Circus with a select few friends actually wearing the amazing original costumes designed by Danilo Donati for the 1970 Federico Fellini film The Clowns. Giammetti wore an ornate, multicolored sequined coat complete with a white organza ruffled collar, topped with a silver-sequined, cone-shaped hat. Directly in front of Giammetti in my photograph, wearing a simple white caftan and black hat, is the artist Joe Eula, whose sketches for Halston’s designs are legendary. Vice President of Valentino Couture, Luciano Villarini, scored the most elaborate costume, the black ruffled extravaganza outlined in silver sequins. At the very top of the photograph stands Valentino’s brand ambassador, Carlos Souza, in a solid white jumpsuit bursting with ruffles. 60 QUEST
A myriad of friends joined in the celebration to pay tribute to the legendary designer: fellow designers Giorgio Sant’Angelo, in a lion’s-head mask, Scott Barrie, and Stephen Burrows; fashionista Marina Schiano; awarding-winning and groundbreaking modeling-agency founder Beth Anne Harrison; Gianni Uzielli, not surprisingly in a beautifully tailored conservative suit; and socialites Nan Kempner and Jacqueline de Ribes dancing the night away. I didn’t stay long at Studio 54 but heard afterward that Valentino remained his serene, unflappable self the entire evening and slipped away quietly around 4 a.m., leaving the revelry in full swing. Definitely reminiscent of La Dolce Vita—it was a night to remember. ◆ Opposite page: Friends fête fashion designer Valentino Garavani in costumed regalia for his 46th birthday party in New York City, 1978.
TA K I
SOME HEMINGWAY STORIES
Left to right: Hemingway’s The Sun Also Rises follows American and British expatriates who travel from Paris to the Festival of San Fermín in Pamplona to watch bullfights; Ernest Hemingway with Lady Duff Twysden, Hadley, and friends in Spain in July 1925.
ABOUT 57 YEARS and a month ago,
in Ketchum, Idaho, Ernest Hemingway asked his wife Mary to sing an Italian song, “Tutti mi chiamano bionda” (“Everyone calls me blondie”), and after they both went up to bed he silently padded down the stairs, stepping softly so as to make no sound, went to the basement storage room, took out a double-barreled shotgun, inserted two shells, went back up to the foyer, leaned against the hard steel with his forehead, and pulled the trigger. The newspapers reported it as an accident. I read about it the next day in my aunt Sophia’s garden in Athens, and decided right then and there that the writing life was the one for me. Fifty-seven years might seem a lifetime to you young whippersnappers, 62 QUEST
but it’s only yesterday to me. How clear it still is. The great man, unable to live up to his title as the world’s heavyweight literary champion (Norman Mailer’s invention), goes out like a champ, with a bang. He’d been in the wars too long. And it was a graceful exit, despite the mess. An overdose would have been very un-Hemingway-esque. In Papa’s fiction, tragic heroes died by bullet, like the Swede in “The Killers,” who is warned by Nick Adams that two pros are in town to kill him, but who stays in bed, looking at the wall, tired of running. Papa is out of fashion now, but so is sportsmanship, manhood, gallantry, even heterosexuality. And let’s not even mention Christianity. What is there to say about Hemingway
that hasn’t already been said or written? He was the first literary pop star before the p-word was invented. He wrote about the beautiful active life, the tranquil exhilaration of fishing, but also about the brutality of big-game hunting, bullfighting, and war. He resolved this dissonance in art by turning writing into marvelous prose. His masculine prose had the effect of the utmost subtlety. It was the hardest way to write because it seemed so easy and natural. Literary types called it nonliterary and vulgar—in the beginning. But Papa was following his idol, a certain Mark Twain, who had never been conventionalized by literary associations. After The Sun Also Rises became a great hit, men started to talk the way he wrote. “Have a drink” became a watchword.
TA K I Heroic dissipation turned into a lifestyle for romantic wannabes. Hem was criticized for the glorification and martyrdom of bullfighters— Edmund Wilson, a Papa fan, called it neurotic and drunken—but Papa gave back as good as he got: “Bullfighting is not a sport. It was never supposed to be. It is a tragedy. A very great tragedy. The tragedy is the death of the bull. It is played in three definite acts.” I once discussed Papa with Louis Miguel Dominguín, one of the five greatest bullfighters ever (Joselito, Belmonte, Manolete, Ordonez, and Louis Miguel). He didn’t like Hemingway, and said
I’m writing a book and you’re in it,” he would yell at him in various bistros. But he liked Loeb, took him along on trips and played tennis with him and Ezra, and was known to punch people who said anti-Semitic things in his presence. Go figure, as he never said. (I tried to contact Loeb a few years ago as I knew members of the Loeb banking family, but he would not discuss the Paris years. Again, go figure.) Loeb fell for an English so-called Lady, Duff Twysden (Papa turned her into Lady Brett Ashley), and made a fool of himself. Although from Michigan, Papa knew the real thing when he saw it.
some pretty old but good money. And now we come to war. He witnessed it three times, from up front. He said that A Farewell to Arms is a Romeo-and-Juliet story. His account of the retreat from Caporetto is his best sustained piece of narrative ever. Unlike the motley modern crew, he believed it was bad luck to talk about writing. Excerpts from the retreat: “As we moved out through the town it was empty in the rain and the dark except for columns of troops and guns that were going through the main street. There were many trucks too and some carts going through on other streets and
Left to right: Ernest Hemingway in Cuba, 1952; some consider Hemingway’s account of the retreat from Caporetto from A Farewell to Arms his best sustained piece of narrative; Louis Miguel DominguÍn, one of the greatest bullfighters of all time, criticized Hemingway’s glorification of the sport.
he (Hem) knew nothing about bullfighting. Well, Dominguín knew much more, I am sure, but the fact that Hemingway called Louis Miguel’s brother-in-law Ordonez the greatest ever must have played a part. One thing is for sure: Papa elicited very strong reactions from people. Writers, however, admired his work too much not to like him. James Joyce, Ezra Pound, F. Scott Fitzgerald, John Dos Passos, Henry Miller—they were all good buddies, although I never could find out if Celine and he ever met. The latter’s anti-Semitism was real, Papa’s was phony. He based Robert Cohn in The Sun Also Rises on Harold Loeb, a rich American playboy who lived in Paris during the ’20s. “Loeb, you kike,
Twysden was not it, and Loeb paid for it. I sometimes dream about what Hem would have done with people like the Tchenguiz brothers, or others of their kind. As a very green Toronto Star correspondent, Papa had called Mussolini the “biggest bluff in Europe” when the rest of the world saw the Duce as the second coming. I never understood his sucking up to Gertrude Stein, but then I’ve sucked up to far worse. His only novel with an American setting was To Have and Have Not—a novella, really, its title alone proclaiming Papa’s consciousness of injustice and inequality in the world. Class-ridden Europe was his hunting ground. And despite the cruel barbs toward Scott Fitzgerald’s fascination with the rich, he also frequented
converging on the main road. When we were out past the tanneries onto the main road the troops, the motor trucks, the horse-drawn carts and the guns were in one wide slow-moving column. We moved slowly but steadily in the rain, the radiator cap of our car almost against the tailboard of a truck that was loaded high, the load covered with wet canvas. Then the truck stopped. The whole column was stopped. It started again and we went a little farther, then stopped...” “Blow, blow, ye western wind . . . Christ, that my love were in my arms and I in my bed again. That my love Catherine. That my sweet love Catherine down might rain. Blow her again to me.” u For more Taki, visit takimag.com. SEPTEMBER 2018 63
QUEST
Fresh Finds BY DA N I E L C A P P E L LO A N D E L I Z A B E T H M E I G H E R
THE SUMMER SUN is beginning to set this month, but we’re excited for crisp, cool evenings followed by bright, lingering days. Back to school means back to fashion, and we’ve rounded up everything from velvet dresses to turtleneck knits to get you in the mood for the season. While you’re at it, why not stop and pick up a new painting for your walls along the way?
Step out for any of the season’s galas in Dennis Basso’s metallic velvet column gown. $4,600. Dennis Basso: 825 Madison Ave., 212.794.4500. With a versatile chain of 16 or 18", this large reversible butterfly pendant in gold with black enamel and diamonds completes any look, from day to evening. Price upon request. Lusso by Fabio Angri: 908.400.0969 or lussobyfabioangri.com.
An instant classic for the modern woman: the Alta heel in natural snake from Inez, featuring a perfect 3.5-inch leather-covered heel for just the right amount of height. $258 at inez.com.
Keep time on your side with Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual LadyDatejust 28 in platinum. $46,000. Visit rolex.com for retail locations.
Discover the taste of Bacardí’s Gran Reserva Diez, a luxurious rum that’s been expertly blended and barrel-aged for a minimum of 10 years under the Caribbean sun. To learn more about why this dark gold
Get ready to explore the season in Ralph Lauren’s Pioneer overcoat ($3,995), red cashmere turtleneck ($1,095), and solid flannel trouser
rum is worth the wait,
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Sweater season is quickly upon us, which means a Mr. Casual shoe in gray wool from Belgian Shoes is the perfect finishing touch. $465. Belgian Shoes: 110 E. 55th St., 212.755.7372.
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outstanding quality. $2,795. Visit us.leica-camera.com for Leica stores, boutiques, and dealers.
SEPTEMBER 2018 65
Fresh Finds Express to impress with the Hardwired Sheen single eyeshadow in Pointe Noire from NARS, offering a highly reflective and dramatic shine in black with red shimmer. $22. Visit narscosmetics.com to purchase and for more colors.
Add a pop of color with Vhernier’s turquoise and pink gold Pop Chain necklace. $9,950. Vhernier: 783 Madison Ave. or 55 Wall St., 646.343.9551.
Fall certainly calls for knits, and there’s no topping Brandon Maxwell’s turtleneck knit circle dress. $678 at Saks Fifth Avenue.
With its versatile three-convertible looks— rectangular shopper, pure trapezoid tote, or signature tote—the pale rose Ai from Akris is a keeper. $3,990 at akris.ch and select Akris boutiques.
Define your style in a one-of-a-kind 100% silk vintage saree cocktail jacket, fashioned Hoops are always in fashion, especially at their simplest and finest, like these small gold hoop earrings from Kenneth Jay Lane. $40 at kennethjaylane.com. 66 QUEST
by Charlotte Kellogg out of vintage wedding sarees. $750. Charlotte Kellogg: 256 Worth Ave., Palm Beach, 561.820.2407.
Searching for paradise? Why not go with a painterly interpretation, in the form of Henri Maïk’s Le Paradis (1977), an oil on canvas for sale at Findlay Galleries. Price upon request. Findlay Galleries: 165 Worth Ave., Palm Beach, 561.655.2090.
The season’s greatest prints and colors are mixed, matched, and mated in typical high Etro style. Etro: 720 Madison Ave.,
A needed missing link to any autumn ward-
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robe: Stuart Weitzman’s Link 100 heel in Pitch Black Manet. $525. Stuart Weitzman: 625 Madison Ave., 212.750.2555.
James Purdey & Sons, known for its hunting gear, offers the perfect fall staple with its Moorland floral silk scarf in Heather, featuring autumnal colors inspired by the shooting landscape. $380 at purdey.com.
Discover the delight of this Harry Winston 13-carat emerald-cut sapphire ring featuring diamonds set in platinum. Price upon request. For more information, call 800.988.4110 or visit harrywinston.com.
Be happy in the Halcyon Days Bee Sparkle Hinged Bangles, in gold with red, cream, black, or cobalt. $225 each at Scully & Scully: 504 Park Ave., 212.755.2590. SEPTEMBER 2018 67
ARTS
SEAN STONE’S RISING STAR BY CHUCK PFEIFER
WHEN THE NAME Sean Stone arises in a conversation, people invariably ask, “Are you related to Oliver Stone?” The reply, of course, is, “Yes. I’m his son.” Sean also happens to be my godson. We recently had lunch at Michael’s restaurant in New York City. Always busy with directing, writing, or acting, he had just returned from Morocco, where he was working on a film. I am very proud of Sean and his early accomplishments. Sean calls Santa Monica, California, home, but he grew up all over the world—Mexico, the Philippines, New York City, Dallas, San Francisco, Paris, and New Orleans. From the age of six months, he has been on film sets and has traveled with his dad to India, Tibet, the Horn of Africa, and Asia. He considers it a great honor and a unique adventure to interact with so many cultures, hear different languages, and try exotic foods. He calls Los Angeles his wife, and New York City his mistress. He loves the contrast between the two cities—the urban sprawl of L.A. compared to the condensed energy of New York. He says New York drives his creativity, but doesn’t feel he would like to live full-time in the city. When asked for an interview, his response was, “Sure.” I hadn’t counted on it being that easy. CP: Are you an only child? SS: I was seven when my brother was born, so for a while I felt like an only child. A sister was born when I was 10. Now we three love each other very much and try to spend as much time together as possible. 68 QUEST
From top of re el: Sean Ston e shooting a short film, An Sean picture arkali, in Indi d at the gate a; way to India in Mumbai; Se the ancient M an at Teotihua esoamerican can, city located in a sub-valley Mexico, appr of the Valley oximately 25 of miles northea st of modernand known as day Mexico the site of m City any of the m ost architectu Mesoamerica rally significan n pyramids bu t ilt in the preColumbian Am Mickey Rourke ericas; Sean on the set of with the film Nigh t Walk. Oppo of Oliver Ston site page: Th e, Sean Stone e son is also makin g his mark in the film indu stry.
CO U RTE S Y O F S E A N S TO N E
ARTS CP: How old were you when you realized who your father was? SS: Around five. It dawned on me that my father just won an Oscar for the film Born on the Fourth of July. I knew that was a big deal, and that he was famous. I had met Charlie Sheen, Tom Cruise, and Michael Douglas, but at five that life was separate from my daily life of school, homework, and activities. CP: Did you feel compelled to follow in your father’s footsteps? SS: I’ve never felt that I’ve followed in his footsteps, and I haven’t felt compelled to do so. My mother would tell you that I loved playing with action figures—G.I. Joe, Star Wars, HeMan. I’d set them up and create elaborate stories with them. I guess I was making movies in a sense, but much cheaper. I loved storytelling and wanted to be a writer since I was about seven years old. Now I consider myself an artist who expresses himself through writing, acting, directing, hosting news and interview programs, and much more. CP: Were you a rebellious teenager? SS: Not really. I was introverted and was into reading, studying, and sports. I wanted to go to Princeton University after high school and made that my focus. I was more of a model student than a rebel. CP: Why Princeton and not Yale? SS: I found Yale too industrial, too bleak, without trees or glades. Princeton looked like paradise, but, as F. Scott Fitzgerald understood, these Gatsby worlds are illusory. CP: What was your major? SS: American history. I turned my thesis into a book, New World Order. It’s available on Amazon and other retailers. CP: At Princeton, did you participate in sports? SS: No. I gave up on sports after high school football and track. I didn’t have the drive to compete at a higher level. CP: What is the most important thing you have learned that you have applied to your career or to your personal life? SS: Discipline. Studying itself provided a reservoir of knowledge and insights that I draw upon in my work. The actual discipline of studying, wanting to know more, and working and reworking something begins at school. CP: Were you encouraged or discouraged to get into the film business, or was that your own decision? SS: It was my own decision, but I still battle between the two. I mean, it’s not much of a business. It’s more like a traveling showman who sets up shop and sells himself so people might buy his wares. I feel more like a rainmaker, honestly, listening to my soul in writing stories, some of which will ultimately find their way to the hearts and minds of millions. CP: I know you work as an actor, but what medium do you prefer—acting, writing, or directing? SS: I am the medium. I don’t mean that egotistically, but just to say that in this day and age, each of us is a brand. If I feel 70 QUEST
From top of reel, this pa ge: Sean Ston e at the tem Hapsuschet ple for Quee in Egypt; Se n an pictured at the ancient M of Teotihuaca esoamerican ; as a younge city r boy with hi s father, Oliv Nepal. Of gr owing up wi er Stone, in th a famous father, Sean ne ve r fe lt th Stone says, at I’v e fo llo we “I’ve d in hi s fo ot st ep s, an d I compelled to ha ve n’ t fe lt do so... Now I consider m yself an artis himself thro t who expres ugh writing, ses acting, direct ing, hosting in te rv ie w pr news and og ra m s, an d m uc h m or e. ”
drawn to a project as a writer, I may not have it in my heart and mind to direct it. The same goes for me as an actor. But when something really grips my imagination and I want to grapple with it for the years it takes to direct, then I commit to it in that sense. CP: What projects are you engaged in now? SS: We just put out a martial-arts comedy I wrote, produced,
ARTS and acted in called Fury of the Fist and the Golden Fleece. It was a long time coming, featuring icons like Michael Dudikoff, Bill Goldberg, Danny Trejo, Taimak, Ron Jeremy, Tommy Davidson, and so many more. Casting alone was a beast, but I think it’s a real adventure of a film, a total homage to actionhero cinema. And I just acted in a little indie called Night Walk that should be coming out next year but I’ll seal my lips on the next film until we’re in production. CP: Who is your favorite movie star? And why? SS: I love the classic actors like Cary Grant and Humphrey Bogart, but I’d have to say, Toshiro Mifune. He could do it all. He had a sense of class and style, and the madness of a lunatic. He could be a fighter, a lover, a thespian. He’s the epitome of what I’d like to be as an actor. CP: Are films today too violent, or too sexually graphic? SS: Neither. It’s impossible to speak of films and TV today because it’s everything and nothing. I respond to the energy and heart of an era, and I’m not sure where I’d place us, but I don’t feel excited about going to movies anymore. There was a time when I did. Maybe it’s because I was young, but there was a mystery that anything was possible when the lights went out. The magic of an emotional experience, the music, the heart of the actors and the director—all of these are the things that may be missing for me in too many films now. CP: Do you feel violent films contribute to society’s gun problems? SS: I think mental issues have more to do with that. I don’t think films are driving mental problems. Films are just reflecting our collective insanity. CP: As an actor, what has been your favorite role? SS: The fist in Fury of the Fist. CP: Is there a role you turned down that you wish you hadn’t? SS: Ask me that again in 20 years. CP: Who do you consider your best friend or friends? SS: That’s a good question. It’s changed so much. I’m learning to know myself right now so I can make that decision. CP: What is your favorite curse word? SS: Fuck.
CO U RTE S Y O F S E A N S TO N E
CP: What’s the craziest thing you have ever done? SS: Fighting completely naked on-screen in Fury of the Fist. CP: Why did you convert to Islam? SS: I have always tried to make it clear that converting to Islam is a misnomer. To believe Muhammad is a prophet of the one god is the meaning of accepting Islam. The tenets of Islam are prayer, charity, fasting, and haji. I’ve yet to visit Mecca, but I think the other three are very respectable practices to work on. CP: With the country as a whole being somewhat Islamophobic,
has that been a problem for you? SS: I don’t know that the country is Islamophobic. I’ve seen things in the mainstream media that are, but I don’t watch the news. I don’t think it’s been a personal problem for me. CP: Politically, do you think we’re moving backward or forward? SS: I’m excited about where we are. I feel changes are brewing, both positive and negative, but it’s necessary change. We have to come to terms with who we are as a nation. It’s time to look at ourselves collectively in the mirror. CP: Why in either instance? SS: Let’s just say we’re a young country that has a very important place in the world, but we haven’t been the best model yet for the world that we could be. I hope we become the role model that our rhetoric and ideals promise. CP: Have you ever been married? SS: Never married, and still single. CP: Did you spend any time in the military? SS: I did ROTC for a semester in college and quickly realized it was not in me to become a killer if called upon. I didn’t believe in the wars we were fighting. I feel the more important duty for me is to use my knowledge and position to help educate, enlighten, and bring peace through statesmanship. CP: What is your ultimate goal? SS: To help spark a new age of enlightenment in the world by reminding humans of our cosmic ancestry and destiny. Our souls don’t come from this world and we don’t end here. There is so much more for humans once we’ve awakened spiritually. CP: If you weren’t in the film business, what would you be? SS: I ask myself that question all the time and have yet to find an answer that makes me happy. CP: Do you like music? What kind? SS: Music is the language of the heart and soul. I love all kinds, depending on my mood. It’s about tempo—like when you watch a movie, and there’s some music that fits and works perfectly, and there’s other music that’s great, but just not for that. CP: Who are some of your favorite authors? SS: Hugo, Hemingway, Dostoyevsky, Conrad, and Balzac. There are so many great writers that escape me now. CP: What things are on your bucket list? SS: I want to visit the inner earth. CP: When you enter heaven, what would you like to hear from the supreme being? SS: “Mission accomplished.” CP: How would you like to be remembered? SS: As me. u SEPTEMBER 2018 71
WORDS TO LIVE BY “LOVE ALL, TRUST A FEW, do wrong to none.” These wise words by William Shakespeare are just one of the 37 reflections offered in Alexandra Villard de Borchgrave’s latest book, Love & Wisdom (Giles), out this month. Sometimes, we all need some small tokens of advice to help us through a hard time, or just the daily rigor of life. For de Borchgrave, that time was when her late husband, Arnaud, passed away in 2015. “Arnaud was known as a brilliant thinker, and, in searching for a way forward after his death, I found myself drawn to wise sayings of ancient philosophers that were remarkably relevant to our lives today,” she writes in the book’s introduction. One of said philosophers, Pythagoras, even influenced the layout of the book. An extraordinary mathematician, Pythagoras believed in finding power in symbols, especially the number seven. As a homage to him, de Borchgrave divided the book into seven sections: Hope, Beauty, Forgiveness, Love, Kindness, Sorrow, and Wisdom. To bring the quotes to life, each page is beautifully illustrated with exquisite artwork. Sixteenth-century art from the Smithsonian Institution’s Freer|Sackler Gallery is juxtaposed with contemporary images drawn in part from the National Geographic Creative (which showcases the work of award-winning cinematographers), depicting the heavens in the form of landscapes, sunsets, and starry skies. Combining life affirmations with jewel-like images and gilded-edged pages, Love & Wisdom is a great way to practice self-love, and the perfect gift for someone going through struggle. A renowned photojournalist and author, de Borchgrave quotes Heraclitus, “The sun is new each day,” offering a constant message of hope and perseverance. She writes, “I hope we will use our time on earth wisely, and that our troubled world will focus more on compassion, understanding, and peaceful coexistence, finding new ways to bind humanity together in love and wisdom.” u
CO LLE E N D U G A N / F R E E R | S AC K LE R , TO NY P O W E LL , G E T T Y I M A G E S
BY ANN LOYND BURTON
BOOKS
In Alexandra Villard de Borchgrave’s (opposite page, top) new book, Love & Wisdom, contemporary photography depicting the heavens is framed with 16th-century artwork (this spread). The juxtaposition of old and new represents the age-old wisdom shared and its relevance in modern times.
SEPETEMBER 2018 73
PHOTOGRAPHY
NOW ON VIEW: THE ART OF FASHION BY DANIEL CAPPELLO
WHY DO SOME fashion photographs transcend their commercial character to function as works of art, while others do not? This is a central question posed—and answered—in an exhibition titled “Icons of Style: A Century of Fashion Photography, 1911–2011,” on view through October 21 at the J. Paul Getty Museum in Los Angeles. In part, the answer lies in the ability of the fashion photograph to reflect two or more worlds: the “perfect” world inside the frame—where youth, beauty, and luxury reign supreme—and the harsh realities of the world outside it. The best fashion photographs remind us of other works of art or expand the boundaries of the genre, redefining what a fashion photograph is supposed to do, or be. Beginning in 1911—the year Edward Steichen created the first “artistic” fashion photographs—and ending in 2011 with digital technology as a dominant paradigm, this exhibition surveys the rich and varied history of modern fashion photography. From the era of Vogue to the era of Instagram, the show, generously supported by Arlene Schnitzer and Jordan Schnitzer, traces fashion photography’s trajectory from a niche industry to a powerful cultural force, and its gradual recognition as a veritable form of art. u This page: An untitled Fujicolor Crystal Archive print by Guy Bourdin for Charles Jourdan, Spring 1977, © The Guy Bourdin Estate, Courtesy of Louise Parks, New York, 1950, © The Gordon Parks Foundation (below). Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Black Evening Dress in Flight by Hiro, New York, 1963, © Hiro; Uma in Dress by Patou, 1986, by Sheila Metzner, © Sheila Metzner; Diana Newman, 1966, gelatin silver print by Neal Barr, © Neal Barr; The Mainbocher Corset by Horst P. Horst, Paris, 1939, © Condé Nast, Courtesy of Fahey/Klein Gallery, Los Angeles.
T H E J . PAU L G E T T Y M U S E U M
Alexander Gallery (above); Bettina and Frances McLaughlin-Gill by Gordon
SPIRITS
PRESERVING AND GROWING THE LEGACY OF BACARDÍ RUM
CO U RTE S Y O F B AC A R D Í
BY ANN LOYND BURTON SOME BRANDS WITH a long heritage rest on their laurels, relying on classics to carry them into modern times. BACARDÍ is not one of them. Although its centuries-old techniques and family ownership endure, the rum maker is constantly pushing the limits of the spirit and positioning itself at the forefront of cocktail culture. Case in point? This year, the brand launched a new premium portfolio crafted by its Maestros de Ron, introducing two new barrel-aged rums intended to expand the idea that rum is only intended for tropical cocktails and instead capture a new generation of imbibers who can enjoy the spirit as an elevated sipping option. “While our reach and scale is massive and touches all parts of the world, we see our rum as more than just a business, it’s deeply personal,” explains Vice President and Brand Marketing Director Ned Duggan. “BACARDÍ has generations of history and heritage, and that is how we’ve perfected our rum expressions over the years. As the leader in the category, we have the responsibility to continue innovating and providing quality rums that shine both in cocktails and on their own.” One of the ways the company has been able to stay on the forefront of cocktail culture is with its annual BACARDÍ Legacy Global Cocktail Competition, which calls the world’s finest bartenders to create their own legacy cocktail that can stand the test of time and become a classic, à la the mojito. This year marked the tournament’s 10th anniversary, and an impressive 10,000 bartenders from across the globe participated in regional competitions in hopes of earning one of 34 coveted spots to compete in the finals. Held in Mexico City this May at the Museo Numismático Nacional, finalists presented their concoctions in front of hundreds of industry leaders. “This year, Eric van Beek from Netherlands took home the trophy to become the tenth global winner,” Duggan says, noting that van Beek, who works at Bar TwentySeven in Amsterdam, won the competition with Cariño, a shaken cocktail combining BACARDÍ Reserva Ocho with yellow chartreuse, Greek yogurt, vanilla syrup
and lemon juice. His creation beat out “an incredibly strong field of original drinks created by bartenders from 34 countries.” Possessing a celebrated legacy, however, comes with responsibility, which is why the brand is committed to promoting responsible consumption. “We are steadfastly opposed to the use of our products by underage consumers or any other irresponsible users,” Duggan notes, adding, “We follow strict codes of responsible marketing, be it in our communication that is targeted at consumers of legal drinking age and above, or promoting responsible consumption.” Along with marketing, BACARDÍ and its subsidiaries (the brand’s portfolio includes Grey Goose® vodka, Martini & Rossi® vermouth, and Patrón® tequila, among others) support trade and social organizations that combat issues like alcohol abuse, underage drinking, and drunk driving, in addition to a host of sustainability efforts. Most recently, BACARDÍ teamed up with the Lonely Whale Foundation and created #TheFutureDoesntSuck—a global movement aimed at ridding the environment of single-use plastic waste. The two companies are joining forces to achieve a goal of removing one billion single-use plastic straws by 2020. “In fact, social and corporate responsibility has always been a foundation of BACARDÍ,” Duggan confirms. “Company founder and BACARDÍ rum creator Don Facundo Bacardí Massó began this commitment when he volunteered to be the chief organizer of disaster relief in his hometown of Santiago de Cuba after a devastating earthquake.” Bacardí Massó’s ancestors continue to build on that commitment, he adds, by giving back to communities around the world through volunteerism, education, and financial donations. Now that calls for a toast. u BACARDÍ’s new premium portfolio features barrel-aged rums including the Añejo Cuatro (opposite page), Reserva Ocho (this page, left), and Reserva Diez (this page, right). The sophisticated spirits are meant to be enjoyed in elevated cocktails or on their own. SEPTEMBER 2018 77
DREAM TEAM B Y B R O O K E K E L LY
LIZA PULITZER, a third-generation Palm Beacher whose family name is iconic on the island, boasts over 30 years of brokerage experience in the area. Her partner, Whitney McGurk, uses his extensive experience in sales and marketing to contribute to an increasing number of sales each year. Together, the pair has become a top-producing real estate team in the area. Below, the two share with us some of their insights into the Palm Beach market and their highly respected partnership. Q: How has the Palm Beach real estate market evolved over the past few years? A: We are finding more clients looking for a property that is move-in ready. The ease of being able to move into a brand new or recently renovated home has added value to clients who are moving from out of town. We are also seeing a shift in desirable locations; the North End has become 78 QUEST
Q: Why are more people looking to call Palm Beach their permanent home? A: Tax reform and the quality of life Palm Beach has to offer is a driving force for why more people are moving here. The new tax reform has played a large role in clients claiming residency. Clients are looking to take advantage of the tax incentives personally, as well as professionally in moving businesses to South Florida. Overall, there are more opportunities for young families to live and work in South Florida. Q: How would you describe your overall team dynamic? A: We have known each other for over 35 years, which attributes to our ability to work seamlessly with each other and our clients. We are in constant communication working various angles to ensure we offer our clients the best service possible. Q: What are your unique roles within the team? A: Liza knows just about every home in Palm Beach and Whitney has a wealth of knowledge in marketing and sales. When we first partnered, Whitney took on more of an administrative role but quickly became an equal part of the team as he attributed to closing more and more
deals. Each of us have our own network of different age groups, which has proven to be very advantageous. Q: I read that you often try to find potential homes for buyers that are not yet listed. Tell more about this concept. A: Once we have a good idea of what clients are looking for, we search for properties that are listed on the market. A lot of times, we cannot find exactly what our clients want. We get to work using our long standing network of relationships with realtors and residents to find properties that are not on the market. Through phone calls, emails, and talking real estate 24/7, we have our finger on the pulse. We leave no stone unturned to find our clients the property they’re looking for. Q: What makes your team stand out over other brokers in the area? A: We are born and raised in Palm Beach and know the island better than most. This is a huge asset to clients as we know the history of the island, who lives where, why one street is better (or worse) than another. We strive to create a white-glove concierge service to integrate clients and their businesses into the community. u For more information, visit bhsusa.com or call 561.310.7919 (McGurk) or 561.373.0666 (Pulitzer).
B RO W N H A R R I S S T E V E N S
sought after as it’s very family friendly.
R E A L E S TAT E
Clockwise from above: 555 Island Drive is the largest available property on Everglades Island with 175 of Intracoastal frontage; 1197 N Lake Way is an impressive lakefront estate that is characterized by high ceilings, deep overhangs, large porches, and numerous windows taking in spectacular Intracoastal Waterway and sunset views; the pool area at 555 Island Drive; 3611 South Flagler Drive is a boutique condominium that boasts six private residences overlooking the Intracoastal Waterway. Opposite page: 1221 N Lake Way; Liza Pulitzer and Whitney McGurk (inset).
GUILDFORD An authentic and magical English manor home embraces the past and nurtures the soul.
WHEN THE GATES of Guildford open, you are transported to a time reminiscent of another era—one of magical and ethereal beauty. The tranquility we all long for in today’s hectic world wraps its arms around you in a nurturing way and summons a cozy sense of peacefulness that is rarely found in a home of this scale. Completed in 1925, this magnificent home took nearly a decade to reassemble and build and is truly an historical treasure—a treasure that was first conceived in 1915 by industrialist George W. Elkins, inspired when he visited his friend, the Duke of Sutherland, at his home, Sutton Place near Guildford in Surrey, England. The residence, an authentic 16th-century Tudor manor house in Wyndmoor, Pennsylvania, was crafted with English Tudor architectural elements that were imported from England and reassembled by European artisans. Elkins and his wife, Allethaire, took great care to ensure it would last for centuries using reinforced concrete throughout the entire substructure 80 QUEST
to protect the home’s timeless architectural elements. Upon entering the front courtyard set with river stones carried from England’s River Wey in Surrey, you are dazzled by the beautifully carved limestone entry arch and historic oak entry door that lead into the linen-fold paneled majestic front hall. From here you catch a glimpse of the breathtaking living room, with its intricate oak crown moldings and jewel-like stained glass rose window signifying a visit from Elizabeth I of England during her reign. This grand room was reassembled from its original setting at Cassiobury Hall. The rich character of the first-floor library, known as Pope’s Parlor after famed writer, Alexander Pope, who is said to have written his “Essay on Man” in this room, features a welcoming fireplace and 16th-century Cedar of Lebanon paneling—a very subtle scent of this rare wood still lingers in the air to this day. The updated and expansive modern,
KU R F I S S S OT H E BY ’ S I N TE R N AT I O N A L R E A LT Y
B Y B R O O K E K E L LY
OPEN HOUSE
This page, clockwise from above: Guildford sits on 18 park-like acres and features seven en-suite bedrooms, two elevators, a four-car garage, a large home office, wine cellar, and 13 working fireplaces; one of the many 16th-Century rain basins serves as an historic reminder of Guildford’s provenance; a rear view of the residence that shows the large event lawn and private pool and spa area. Opposite page: Guildford’s intimate library, also known as Pope’s Parlor after the acclaimed writer Alexander Pope, features a large fireplace and hand-carved 16th-Century Cedar of Lebanon paneling.
eat-in chef’s kitchen and butler’s pantry are at the heart of the home and lead to the western terrace for sunset dinners or entertaining by the pool. The second and third floors are home to seven delightful bedrooms, the crown jewel being the opulent master suite. The master bedroom, with a fireplace and views of the sunken garden, is entered through a sun-filled sitting room with corner fireplace, two spectacular bathrooms, two large walk-in closets, and a private elevator. The wine cellar on the lower level was once a massive art and silver vault for the Elkins’ priceless collection, which stored pieces now displayed in the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and is now a perfect place to host an intimate candlelit dinner or caviar tasting. Guildford sits on 18 stunning park-like acres. From the quiet woodland walking trails, the private pool and spa area
and the sunken and terraced English gardens, you can spend countless hours exploring Guildford’s natural beauty. A wonderful surprise, the charming thunder shelter with a fireplace is a perfect folly for rainy days or snowy adventures. Adding to the enchantment and below the elegant event lawn, where the sun sets dramatically over the horizon, is the terraced amphitheater bordered by white blooming dogwood, providing a playful way to watch an outdoor movie or host a poetry reading, concert, or performance. Guildford is perfectly located within walking distance of the village of Chestnut Hill, recognized by Forbes as one of seven “Top Urban Enclaves,” with its cobblestone streets and chic boutiques. “Chestnut Hill is a magical place to call home: a place that feels like it’s out of a simpler time but not out of touch,” shared the current mistress of Guildford. The area is also home to highly rated schools, the renowned and storied Philadelphia Cricket Club, Wings Field private airport, three commuter train stations, the Woodmere Art Museum, Fairmount Park trails, and the Morris Arboretum. Guildford is an easy commute to Philadelphia’s Center City and a 90-minute drive to Manhattan. u For more information, visit guildfordestate.com. The home is listed with Hannah Griswold McFarland (917.453.3632 or Hannah@kurfiss.com) and Randall Gianopulos (917.821.6930 or Randall.Gianopulos@ sothebyshomes.com).
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KU R F I S S S OT H E BY ’ S I N TE R N AT I O N A L R E A LT Y
OPEN HOUSE
This page, clockwise from above: The grand living room comes from Cassiobury Hall and Elizabeth I is said to have visited this room during her reign; the sun sets dramatically over the great lawn; the welcoming kitchen, with chef’s-grade appliances and an eye-level fireplace, is a perfect setting for family gatherings; the regal dining room features honey-toned 18th-century Georgian pine paneling from Felling Hall in Northumberland. Opposite page: The soothing master bedroom centers on an antique marble fireplace and overlooks the sunken garden and sunset vistas (above); one of two luxurious bathrooms
P H OTO C R E D I T G O E S H E R E
in the master suite (below).
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OPEN HOUSE
LONGVIEW
ONE OF WASHINGTON, Connecticut’s finest listings, Longview is situated on 289.72+/- acres of well-manicured pastureland designed by an avid arborist. Beautiful orchards and mature specimen trees can be seen throughout the property, as well as miles of natural hiking trails with streams, ponds, and gardens along the way. The estate, with its long, winding driveway and completely gated perimeter, offers unrivaled privacy. Inside the main four-bedroom Georgian Colonial home is a large gallery-style foyer for art, a spectacular solarium and dining room, a spacious living room with a large wood-burning fireplace, a cozy library, gym, elevator, massive veranda, and a modern indoor pool. Additionally,
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the property includes an omni tennis court, an outdoor pool and pool house, a two-bedroom guest house, a four-bedroom caretaker’s home, and a three-car detached garage. Approximately a twohour drive from Manhattan in the picturesque Litchfield County, Longview is perfect for a scenic weekend escape; the area is renowned for beautiful long views, charming Berkshire Mountain vistas, and extensive bucolic farmlands. The listing is priced at $11.5 million with the acclaimed Klemm Real Estate firm—a leader in luxury property sales and rentals throughout the county. The company maintains a reputation of superb personal service to clients, and the relationship extends well beyond the
CO U RTE S Y O F K LE M M R E A L E S TATE
A magnificent estate located in Washington, Connecticut—one of the area’s most coveted new listings.
This spread, clockwise from top left: Longview sits on extensive park-like acres with orchards and mature specimen trees throughout, as well as streams, ponds, and gardens; the cozy library inside the main Georgian Colonial home; the living room; the outdoor pool, spa, and pool house; the home’s dining area; the property’s omni tennis court; the modern indoor pool; the open kitchen, perfect for entertaining guests; the home’s gym.
closing date. Founder Carolyn Klemm and her two sons, Peter and Graham, entertain existing clients extensively. Their properties in Litchfield County, Palm Beach, and New York are the scene of countless social events that continuously bring new clients into their fold. “The process begins long before any listing or sale. It is all about relationships, many of which go back to my New York retailing days when I worked for Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Bonwits,” said Carolyn. “Several celebrated actors, authors, attorneys, corporate leaders, investment bankers, and noted restaurateurs are people I’ve known for years.” In the past year, Klemm Real Estate has
received multiple awards for its outstanding performance, including a Five Star award for the Best Real Estate Agency in Connecticut—a nomination that later resulted in the Best Real Estate Agency in the USA award. “We were proud to be recognized among this distinguished field of leading international real estate companies as Best Real Estate Agency in the State,” said Graham Klemm, president of Klemm Real Estate. “Now we have moved into the Best in the U.S.A.!” u For more information on Longview, contact Peter Klemm (peterklemm@msn.com or 917.864.4940) or Carolyn Klemm (carolyn@klemmrealestate.com or 860.488.6721).
R E A L E S TAT E
DOUGLAS ELLIMAN FORGES AHEAD TO BOSTON B Y B R O O K E K E L LY
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CO U RTE S Y O F DAV I D G R E E N ; MYR N A ROT H M A N ; F R E D A L I B R A N D I ; S A B R I N A S A LT I E L ; J O A N C U CC H I A R A / D O U G L A S E LL I M A N
ON THE HEELS OF a successful expansion across the West Coast just last year, Douglas Elliman—the country’s third largest real estate brokerage company—recently acquired Otis & Ahearn to advance its presence in the greater Boston area. Douglas Elliman’s chairman, Howard M. Lorber, describes Boston as a city with an increasingly global marketplace “ripe with opportunity because of its tremendous appeal to international buyers, tech entrepreneurs, and financial professionals.” Not only did this partnership result in three new office locations—from Back Bay to the Boston Gold Coast Waterfront— but Elliman has also acquired Otis & Ahearn’s 42 real estate professionals along with their robust new development marketing portfolio. “I was particularly impressed by the team at Otis & Ahearn, not only for their astute capabilities in the resale market, but also for the very sophisticated new development division they have built over the last 30 years,” noted Lorber. Founded in 1978 by Kevin J. Ahearn, Otis & Ahearn has a proven track record of effectively serving both buyers and sellers in the Boston area—from Beacon Hill’s traditional row houses to condominiums along the Boston Harbor, and,
most recently, an assortment of ground-up new developments including W Boston Residences, the Residences at the Intercontinental, and Trinity Place. Ahearn, who is now CEO of Douglas Elliman’s Boston division, expressed equal excitement and optimism regarding the new partnership: “There is no other company that could match the national and international reach that our agents and clients will gain from this union.” Douglas Elliman now boasts 113 offices with more than 7,000 knowledgeable agents across the United States, and a strategic global alliance with London-based Knight Frank Residential for business in luxury markets spanning six continents. “We are joining forces to bring the strongest global real estate experience together under one organization,” said Scott Durkin, president and COO of Douglas Elliman. “This is an excellent acquisition for all, because, as part of Douglas Elliman, Otis & Ahearn agents will have more opportunities for exposure while expanding service areas and professional expertise for home buyers and sellers throughout the greater Boston area, across the United States and around the world.” u
This spread, counter clockwise from top right: One of Douglas Elliman’s new listings at 11 Reiling Pond Road in Lincoln, Massachusetts; a new condominium in the Ritz Tower overlooking the Boston Harbor at 2 Avery Street, Apt. 32H; 100 Beach Street in Cohasset; a new condominium at 1 Franklin Street, Apt. 3910 in Boston; 12 Boldwater Road in Edgartown; 133 Starboard Lane in Osterville; one of Douglas Elliman’s new Boston offices at 84 Atlantic Avenue (inset).
CALENDAR
SEPTEMBER
On September 9, Pegasus Therapeutic Riding will host a fun, family-friendly day of polo at Haviland Hollow Farm that includes a gourmet luncheon, silent auction, live DJ, and dancing. Each year, the Charity Cup benefits Pegasus Therapeutic Riding. For more information, visit pegasustr.org.
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SARATOGA POLO
The Saratoga Polo Association will hold its Polo Hall of Fame tournament at the Whitney Field at 5:30 p.m. For more information, call 518.584.8108.
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the Capital Region’s finest restaurants battle it out for the Fired Up! title, while guests enjoy great music, gourmet food, BBQ, a cold Stella Artois, wines, and spirits. Boston Red Sox legend David “Big Papi” Ortiz will highlight Fired Up! with a dedicated appearance and special VIP Meet-and-Mingle
events. Celebrity chef David Burke will judge the event. For more information, visit spac.org.
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RIDING FOR A CAUSE
Pegasus Therapeutic Riding will host a fun, family-friendly day of polo that includes a gourmet lun-
FASHIONABLE AFFAIR
20
The Couture Council will present its Artistry of Fashion Award to Narciso Rodriguez. There will be a reception and luncheon at Lincoln Center at 11:30 a.m. For more information, visit fitnyc.edu/luncheon.
DANCING IN THE STREETS
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OPERA LOVERS
The San Francisco Opera Ball’s opening night gala will take place at the War Memorial Opera House at 5 p.m. The event will support the Opera Guild’s education programs that help give voice to potential opera performers. For more information, visit sfopera.com. WINING AND DINING
The Saratoga Food and Wine Festival will kick off as chefs from 88 QUEST
cheon, silent auction, live DJ, and dancing at Haviland Hollow Farm at 1 p.m. Each year, the Charity Cup benefits Pegasus Therapeutic Riding and its mission to enhance the lives of individuals with disabilities and challenges through equine-assisted activities and therapies. For more information, visit pegasustr.org.
September 7 marks the beginning of the Saratoga Food and Wine Festival. For more information, visit spac.org.
American Ballet Theatre will kick off its week-long “ABT on Madison Avenue” event. Madison Avenue will come alive through September 27 at participating boutiques located between 57th and 86th streets. There will be ABT dancers performing in the street and costumes in the windows of stores—all to benefit the Costume Fund, which supports the creation of new costumes, and the restoration and revitalization of ABT’s vast collection. The roster of participating brands and boutiques include: Akris, Alexis Bittar, Alice + Olivia, Brunello Cucinelli, De Beers, Emilio Pucci, Etro, Frette, Jimmy Choo, and more. For more information and to participate, call 212.953.5177.
CALENDAR
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LUNCH AT A LANDMARK
The New York Landmarks Preservation Foundation will host its annual “Lunch at a Landmark,” honoring Sir David Adjaye. The not-for-profit organization was established in 1980 to support the New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission as well as to foster public awareness of preservation through educational outreach. The Foundation sponsors the Bronze Plaque, Historic District Markers, and Street Sign programs, denoting historic districts in the five boroughs of the city. For more information, email nylpfinfo@gmail.com FUNDING MUSICIANS
On October 4, New Yorkers for the Children will host its Annual Fall Fête at 6:30 p.m. For more information, visit newyorkersforthechilazdren.org. A MUSICAL JOURNEY
New York Philharmonic will hold its 2018 Opening Gala Concert at 7 p.m., welcoming Jaap van Zweden in his inaugural concert as music director. Daniil Trifonov will solo in Ravel’s jazz-infused Piano Concerto in G. The Rite of Spring will roar to life with visceral rhythms and the raw energy of ancient Russian rituals. The evening will also feature the world premiere of a new work by moving composer Ashley Fure, written for the occasion. For more information, visit nyphil.org.
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MAGICAL PERFORMANCE
The Metropolitan Opera’s 20182019 season will open with a special premiere of Darko Tresnjak’s new production of Saint-Saëns’s Samson et Dalila at 6 p.m. at Lincoln Center. The performance will feature Elina Garanca and Roberto Alagna in the title roles, and Sir Mark Elder will be on the podium. After the performance there will be a gala dinner with the cast. For more information, visit metopera.org.
New York Youth Symphony will hold its 56th Annual Benefit Gala at 6:30 p.m. at the Metropolitan Club. The evening will honor Marin Alsop with the Theodore L. Kesselman Award for Arts Education and Rima Vargas-Vetter with the Johanna and Leslie Garfield Award for Arts Philanthropy. The benefit is the organization’s largest and most important fundraising event of the year. Funds raised support the NYYS’s innovative tuition-free educational programs, which educate and inspire young musicians through exceptional training and performance opportunities. More than 6,000 students have participated in the programs since the founding of the NYYS in1963. For more information, visit nyys.org.
OCTOBER 1
AWARD CEREMONY
The Friends of the Upper East Side Historic Districts will proudly present the 15th Annual Ambassador to the Upper East Side Award to Arete Warren at 6:30 p.m. at the Metropolitan Club. Founded in 1982, Friends of the Upper East Side Historic Districts is an independent, not-for-profit membership organization dedicated to preserving the architectural legacy, livability, and sense of place of the Upper East Side. For more information, visit friends-ues.org.
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HELP THE CHILDREN
New Yorkers for the Children will host its Annual Fall Fête at 6:30 p.m. at Highline Stages. The event will benefit the organization’s goal of funding, piloting, and implementing innovative programs that will improve outcomes of youth in the child welfare system with a focus on foster care. For more information and to purchase tickets, visit newyorkersforchildren.org.
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SING A SONG
The Brooklyn Art Song Society will open its season with American Iconoclasts: Charles Ives, and will feature selected songs, including “The Housatonic at Stockbridge.” The event will take place at the Brooklyn Historical Society at 7 p.m. For more information, visit brooklynartsongsociety.org.
On September 20, New York Philharmonic will hold its Opening Night Gala Concert at 7 p.m. The event will welcome Jaap van Zweden in his inaugural concert as music director, and will feature the premiere of a new work by composer Ashley Fure. For more information, visit nyphil.org. SEPTEMBER 2018 89
Opposite page: Elise Taylor starts the day with morning coffee at Chelsea’s Empire Diner in a linen-blend turtleneck, wool blazer, white denim jeans, and canvas sneakers by Polo Ralph Lauren. She wears her own pearl earrings and Vhernier’s Spire ring in white gold and white diamonds.
COVERING THE TOWN PRODUCED AND STYLED BY DANIEL CAPPELLO PHOTOGRAPHED BY JULIE SKARRATT BEAUTY BY OSCAR BLANDI SALON RENEE COHEN FOR HAIR V I K T O R I YA O S YC H E N KO F O R M A K E U P, F E AT U R I N G N A R S
ELISE TAYLOR is a girl about town—not to mention the world. As a Living Writer for Vogue, she covers her fair share of our fair metropolis, from food and spirits to the design world and beyond. Outside of New York, she can be spotted on just about any continent covering travel stories for Vogue, with frequent stops in London, where she has the royal beat. Yes, while the rest of us were busy watching Meghan Markle and Prince Harry tie the knot via Instagram refreshes, Elise was there to witness—and document—the regal “I do”s. A Connecticut native, Elise is a graduate of Greenwich Academy and went on to Boston College for her bachelor’s degree. She spent high school tinkering away on the Greenwich Academy Press; in college, she was an editor for four years at The Heights, her alma mater’s award-winning newspaper. “It was a lot of late nights, red ink, and stale pizza,” she recalls. But her passion for journalism was anything but stale. “I was 13 years old when I picked up my first issue of Vanity Fair,” she tells me. It was Tom Ford’s Hollywood Issue, in which the designer, fully clothed, posed with a bare-bummed Scarlett Johansson and Keira Knightley, reminiscent of Manet’s Dé90 QUEST
jeuner sur l’herbe. “I read it cover to cover, and decided that, one day, I’d write for a magazine.” As determination would have it, she ended up at that very same magazine. Before joining Vogue as a writer, Elise worked as an editorial associate for Vanity Fair. Today, her life is part-literary, part-glamorous, yet always cultural to the core. When not covering the Red Cross Ball in Monaco or the launch of the longest flight in the world (hint: it’s coming this October from Singapore Airlines), Elise can be spotted at some of her favorite New York institutions like The Frick and the New York Public Library, or taking in a performance at Lincoln Center. When she’s not covering the cultural scene or eyeing curiosities for herself at John Derian’s shop in the East Village, she’s usually spending time in the Victorian seaside town of Spring Lake, New Jersey, where her father’s family has been vacationing since the 1930s. For this issue, we managed to snag her for a day somewhere between Shanghai and the South of France so that she could pose for us in some of fall’s most exciting—and most wearable— fashions. We only have one question that remains unanswered: Elise, How do you make it look so easy? —D.C.
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This page: Elise at Bistrot Leo in SoHo wearing Brandon Maxwell’s red pant and bouclé crew neck top with Harry Winston’s chandelier diamond earrings, diamond Winston Cluster necklace, and ruby and diamond ring. Opposite page: Overlooking the Manhattan skyline from SIXTY SoHo in Oscar de la Renta’s hand-painted black tulle gown with floral embroidery and Harry Winston’s diamond Winston Cluster earrings, Secret Combination diamond bracelet, and Lotus Cluster diamond ring.
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Elise skirts puddles and the rain in West Chelsea wearing a white silk shirt from Polo Ralph Lauren, blue jeans from Uniqlo, and Manolo Blahnik’s Zaka heels. She wears her own pearl earrings and her grandmother’s yellow gold Tiffany & Co. ring with rings from Anna Sheffield and Eriness in yellow gold and stones.
This page: Ready for an evening out, Elise exits the halls of SIXTY SoHo in Monique Lhuillier’s Champagne glitter-dot tulle strapless ruchedbodice ball gown and Vhernier’s Tourbillon earclips and Onda bracelet, both in white gold and white diamonds. Opposite page: Before hitting the town, Elise swings by the Diptyque fragrance store on Bleecker Street in Veronica Beard’s Ensley dress with Roberto Coin’s wide Pois Moi gold bangle, Portofino two-row diamond bangle, and Soie earrings in yellow and white gold.
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Autumn temps call for this painterly mohair coat in magenta stripe by AUDRA, layered with AUDRA’s mock-neck crêpe top in magenta. Elise also wears Roberto Coin’s Oro Classic hoops in yellow gold and her grandmother’s yellow gold Tiffany & Co. ring with rings from Eriness and Bea Bongiasca in gold and diamonds.
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At the L’Objet boutique on Bleecker Street, Elise sparkles in Veronica Beard’s black velvet Palo dress with Roberto Coin’s Sauvage Privé earrings and bangle in white gold and diamonds. She wears Stuart Weitzman’s black suede Leigh heels.
THE BRAND THAT STARTED IT ALL BY DANIEL CAPPELLO
FORGET, FOR A MOMENT, the fashion. When has any brand remained as consistently true to its core values as has Ralph Lauren? This month, as the company gears up to claim its usual pièce-de-résistance standing at New York Fashion Week, it’s also hosting a knockout celebration to mark 50 years in the industry— as well as re-opening one of its most beloved storefronts, at the corner of Prince and Greene streets down in SoHo. Only Ralph Lauren could command an entire fashion month. For both industry insiders and longtime fans, the anticipation is as raw as if it were the designer’s first-ever show. Why? Because, as he’s evolved his label, Ralph Lauren has infused fashion with a meaning beyond the clothing itself; he’s given fashion a voice, a life—a raison d’être outside the confines of its own industry and into the worlds of lifestyle, charity, hospitality, and entrepreneurism. All of this while consistently designing around 100 QUEST
an aesthetic that is instantaneously recognizable as “Ralph,” yet at the forefront of fashion today. It started back in 1967, when a 28-year-old Ralph Lauren was working for the tie manufacturer Beau Brummell and had ideas for ties of his own. Drawing on his interest in sports, he launched a line: Polo. “I called it Polo,” Lauren later said, “because it was a sport that had a sensibility that was sporty and international. It was tweedy and sophisticated. It was stylish. Polo had an imagery that represented the lifestyle of the ties and the clothes.” In his first year, Lauren sold $500,000 worth of ties. “It wasn’t the tie,” he later remarked. “It was a commitment to myself. It was a commitment to do what I loved and give it my all.” That tie—and the idea it represented—is what helped grow a single men’s staple into a whole industry. It was stylish indeed. And it certainly represented a lifestyle, which Lauren would go
T H I S PA G E : B RU C E W E B E R / O P P O S I TE PA G E : B RU C E W E B E R ( FA M I LY ) ; S U S A N WO O D ( R I C K Y A N D R A LP H L AU R E N ) ; F R A N Ç O I S H A L A R D ( C A M PA I G N I M A G E S )
THE REAL POLO: FOREVER CLASSIC
Clockwise from lower left: François Halard captured the essence of Ralph Lauren Home and the Ralph Lauren lifestyle in an advertising campaign photographed in New York in 2007; the Lauren family—Dylan, Ralph, Andrew, Ricky, and David—on the RRL Ranch in Ridgway, Colorado, 1998; Ricky and Ralph Lauren in Montauk; Ralph Lauren, rooted in fashion, evokes an entire lifestyle, as captured by François Halard. Opposite page: Ralph Lauren photographed on Martha’s Vineyard by Bruce Weber in 1981. SEPTEMBER 2018 101
Clockwise from lower left: Sketches for Ralph Lauren’s Fall 2007 women’s collection; Ralph Lauren photo-
Valentina Zelyaeva photographed in Los Angeles by Carter Berg for a 2009 Ralph Lauren fashion campaign; Ralph Lauren and model Patti Hansen in black-tie cool for Saks Fifth Avenue, 1977.
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on to invent through iterations of updates on British tweeds and formal wear, perennial American prep, and sophisticated sportswear that could transition from the tennis court to the conference room. It was Lauren who reminded us of classic American dressing’s enduring appeal by outfitting Robert Redford’s 1974 Great Gatsby film. The wardrobe was true to Polo’s DNA: the dream of beautiful shirts, custom tailoring, and the wrinkled, rumpled attitude of the ’30s. He defined the characters through the clothes. He has similarly defined the entire American character through his clothes in each of the five decades since Polo first launched. Appearing in a Saks campaign in the late ’70s with model Patti Hansen, Lauren wore blue jeans and cowboy boots with a blacktie dinner jacket. It was his original combination of styles that felt so alive—so very American—and it made American fashion an enviable thing in his hands. Privately, he led the lifestyle his ads and clothes projected, which lent them an ironclad authenticity. If his wife, Ricky, stepped out in a tailored men’s tuxedo for a formal occasion, that became the fashion. The idea of the Ralph Lauren man and woman expanded through his family and their image as American royalty. It’s why the “Ralph woman” feels appropriate and “in her skin” in either a silk Georgette evening gown or a ruffled blouse, velvet jacket, and cowgirl boots. The fashion was cemented by the lifestyle, and the lifestyle was cemented by the fashion. Hence the debut, in 1983, of Ralph
CO U RTE S Y O F R I C K Y L AU R E N ( FA M I LY ) ; C A RT E R B E R G
David, and Ricky Lauren in Montauk, August 1989;
CO U RTE S T Y O F R A LP H L AU R E N ( S K E TC H ) ; S U S A N WO O D ;
graphed by Susan Wood in 1977; Dylan, Andrew, Ralph,
This page, clockwise from top: Sketches for the dress designed exclusively for Gwyneth
B RU C E W E B E R ( R A LP H L AU R E N ) ; D I C K H A L S T E A D / T I M E M A G A Z I N E
CO U RTE S Y O F R A LP H L AU R E N ( S K E TC H A N D S TO R E ) ;
Paltrow for the Academy Awards in 1999; Ralph Lauren in Bedford, New York, 1997; the Polo section of Ralph Lauren’s Saint-Germain store in Paris, 2010; Lauren on the cover of Time in 1986.
This page, clockwise from lower right: The façade of Ralph Lauren’s women’s flagship store at 888 Madison Avenue on Manhattan’s the façade of Ralph Lauren’s men’s flagship store at 867 Madison Avenue; the front page of the Daily News Record announcing Ralph Lauren’s IPO on the stock exchange in 1997; Lauren on the cover of Fortune magazine in 2007.
P RO F E S S I O N A L WATC H E S ; CO U RTE S Y O F R A LP H L AU R E N ; DA I LY N E W S R E CO R D ; B E N B A K E R / F O RT U N E M A G A Z I N E
Upper East Side; the opening of Ralph’s restaurant in Paris in 2010;
S E B A S T I E N M I C K E ( FA M I LY ) ; W W D ; R I Z Z O L I ; CO U RT E S Y O F R A LP H L AU R E N
Lauren Home, the first full home collection ever by a fashion designer. His integration of fashion and living played out in other realms, allowing him to start charities like the Pink Pony Fund, in 2000. A worldwide philanthropic effort to fight cancer with an emphasis on breast cancer, the Pink Pony is both a charitable foundation and a fashion staple at the same time—that oversized, iconic Polo player in a bright pink hue that woman proudly sport on long-sleeved mesh shirts and handbags alike. All the while raising money for breast-cancer research. The breadth of Lauren’s fashion endeavors—from an appsynced PoloTech workout shirt to a liquid-gold evening dress— has comprehensively encompassed the world he has created through fashion. You feel comfortable working out in his sweats and then throwing on a sweater to catch a plane. You are sophisticatedly appropriate wearing one of his Purple Label suits to dinner at The Polo Bar, his New York boîte that’s also filled with the jodhpurs-in-the-city set sitting next to the cashmereknit-dress set, sitting next to the dressed-up American Western set, sitting next to the Art Deco evening set. They’re all wearing Ralph Lauren, and they’re all part of the world of Ralph Lauren. It goes back to the core of what launched a set of ties 50 years ago: “Polo had an imagery that represented the lifestyle of the ties and the clothes.” Ralph predicted so himself. u
Clockwise from left: The Lauren family in Paris for the opening of the Ralph Lauren store on Boulevard Saint-Germain in 2010; inside the venerable Polo Bar, Ralph Lauren’s midtown eatery and club-like bar in New York City; a WWD article announcing Lauren’s CFDA Lifetime Achievement award, September 1991; the cover of the 50th-anniversary edition of Ralph Lauren, published by Rizzoli; a rendering of the soon-to-be-reopened Ralph City. SEPTEMBER 2018 105
Quest STYLE “You can have anything you want in life if you dress for it.” —Edith Head “The best things in life are free. The second best are very expensive.” —Coco Chanel “Fashion is about dressing according to what’s fashionable. Style is more about being yourself.” — Oscar de la Renta “Fashion is the armor to survive the reality of everyday life.” —Bill Cunningham 106 QUEST
TIM GRAHAM/GETT Y IMAGES
BY ELIZABETH MEIGHER
This page, clockwise from above: The Palazzo Pajama Party at the Brazilian embassy in Rome, December 1, 1962; Lady Henrietta Spencer-Churchill and David Astor at Quaglino’s gala dinner; Martha Stewart in Glamour, 1961; Margaux Hemingway and Bernard Foucher at Studio 54, circa 1978. Opposite page: Princess Diana carrying the Dior bag she made
W I LL I A M K LE I N F O R V O G U E ; H U G O B E R N A A N D F O R TAT LE R ; CO N D É N A S T; P R E S S / I M A G E S / G E T T Y I M A G E S
famous—the Lady Dior bag—in Buenos Aires, 1995.
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This page, clockwise from above: Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin, 1974; Françoise Hardy, 1960s; Elizabeth Taylor wth her son, Michael Wilding, Jr., in 1969; India Jane Birley; Elle Macpherson walking along Park Avenue, New York City, 1992. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Cornelia Guest, Halston, and Andy Warhol, 1986; Grace Kelly, 1954; Matthew Broderick and Alan Ruck in Ferris Bueller’s Day Off, 1986; Italian actress
M I C H A E L G I N I E S : G E T T Y I M A G E S ; J O N AT H A N B E C K E R ; RO N G A LLE L A / W I R E I M A G E
Elsa Martinelli, 1957; Jane Birkin carrying her basket bag, 1969.
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RO N G A LE LL A / W I R E I M A G E ; E V E R E T T CO LLE C T I O N ; CO U RT E S Y O F PA R A M O U N T PI C T U R E S ; RO G E R PI C A R D
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F R E D D I E R E E D / M I R RO R PI X / G E T T Y I M A G E S ; A RT Z E L I N / G E T T Y I M A G E S ; PAU L RO N A L D ; D I A N A WA L K E R / T I M E L I F E PI C T U R E S / G E T T Y I M A G E S
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This page, clockwise from top left: Jacqueline Kennedy and John F. Kennedy, Jr., in Greece, 1969; The Duchess of Cambridge, wearing a cream See by Chloé knit dress, carrying Princess Charlotte during a visit to Canada, 2016; Lee Radziwill, 2015; J. Paul Getty and his secretary attend a private viewing at E V E R E T T CO LLE C T I O N I N C . / A L A MY S TO C K P H OTO ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ; A LE X E I H AY; LE S LE E / E X P R E S S / H U LTO N A R C H I V E / G E T T Y I M A G E S
the Royal Academy of Arts, London, England, 1967. Opposite page, clockwise from above: Brigitte Bardot arrives at London airport as she visits England to film scenes for Two Weeks In September, September, 1966; Audrey Hepburn at a New York airport, 1968; Marcello Mastroianni in 8 1/2, 1963; Barbara Bush standing beside her family dog, an English Springer Spaniel named “Millie,” as they await President Bush on the White House lawn, 1989.
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B O B W I LLO U G H BY / CO U RT E S Y O F H B O ; PI C TO R I A L P R E S S / A L A MY S TO C K P H OTO ; PA R A M O U N T PI C T U R E S
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J OYC E R A I N B O L DT F O R V O G U E ; R E P O RT E R S A S S O C I E S / G A M M A - R A P H O V I A G E T T Y I M A G E S ; PAT R I C K D E M A R C H E L I E R F O R V O G U E ; S E V E N S I S TE R S S T Y LE BY R I Z Z O L I
STYLE
This page, clockwise from top left: Dina Merrill photographed by Joyce Rainboldt, January 15, 1959; Romy Schneider donning a stylish ensemble of a long, white caftan and oversized sunglasses, circa 1970; Jane Fonda sits on a boat beside the sea in France while filming Les FĂŠlins, 1964; Naomi Campbell wearning Alaia in Vogue, May 1992. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Mike Nichols (far left) on the set of The Graduate with Dustin Hoffman, 1967; John F. Kennedy at the wheel of a U.S. Coastguard yacht while on holiday in Maine, August, 1962; Ali MacGraw in Goodbye Columbus, 1969; Astronomy class at Smith College, 1929.
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KATIE STRIKES A POSE, IN POSEN BY DANIEL CAPPELLO PHOTOGRAPHS BY DANIEL KING
KATIE HOLMES is the modern American muse par excellence. In her on-screen roles, she’s gone from the country’s quintessential first daughter to its ultimate first lady—Jacqueline Kennedy—with an impressively wide range of stops in between. She’s the type of woman everyone feels at home with, even from afar. For fashion designer Zac Posen, Holmes is a real-life friend and inspiration, which explains why he enlisted photographer Daniel King to shoot a portfolio of her wearing his Fall-Winter 2018 collection, as you’ll see in these pages. “Katie is one of my dearest friends and a longtime collaborator,” Posen tells us. “It was such an incredible moment to be able to capture her at the House of Z in my Atelier.” 114 QUEST
This page: Katie Holmes in Zac Posen’s black silk faille cropped bolero jacket and gown. Opposite page: Holmes in Posen’s grenadine strapless silk faille gown. Shoot credits: creative director, Christopher Niquet; makeup artist, Violette; hair stylist, Jimmy Paul.
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This page: Katie Holmes in Zac Posen’s fern taffeta off-the-shoulder ball gown. Opposite page: Holmes in Posen’s magenta silk faille bolero with dramatic ruched back with mermaid magenta silk faille gown; the designer Zac Posen with Katie Holmes, wearing his grenadine strapless silk faille gown (inset left); Holmes in Posen’s burgundy bias-cut draped crêpe dress (inset right).
This page: Katie Holmes in Zac Posen’s tangerine silk faille embroidered strapless tea-length dress; in Posen’s burgundy crêpe U-back day dress (inset). Opposite page: Holmes in Posen’s burgundy crêpe day dress.
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BACK TO SCHOOL BY ELIZABETH MEIGHER
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B A R N A R D A R C H I V E S A N D S P E C I A L CO LLE C T I O N S
“You’re off to great places, today is your day, your mountain is waiting, so get on your way!” —Dr. Seuss
F P G / A R C H I V E P H OTO S / G E T T Y I M A G E S
C R A N E / T H E L I F E I M A G E S CO LLE C T I O N / G E T T Y I M A G E S ;
N I CO L AU S C Z A R N E C K I F O R T H E B O S TO N H E R A L D ; R A LP H
This page, clockwise from top left: Harvard fans cheer as the Harvard Crimson take on the Yale Bulldogs at Harvard Stadium in Cambridge on Saturday, November 19, 2016; Williams College students read and take notes during a biology lecture, Williamstown, Mass., 1949; students at Yale University listening to a radio set, circa 1915. Opposite page: Students in front of Barnard Hall, 1950s.
O ’ N E I LL / H U LTO N A R C H I V E / G E T T Y I M A G E S ; E L I B U R A K I A N
T H E T R A D . B LO G S P OT. CO M . O P P O S I TE PA G E : R I Z Z O L I ; T E R RY
T H I S PA G E : VA S S A R C O LL E G E L I B R A R I E S ;
DA RTM O U T H ’ 0 0 ; K I E L J A M E S PAT R I C K . CO M
This page: A dance at Vassar College, as seen in Rebecca C. Tuite’s Seven Sisters (Rizzoli); University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, 1969 (inset). Opposite page, clockwise from above: Vassar College, 1940s, as seen in Rebecca C. Tiute’s Seven Sisters (Rizzoli); Brooke Shields, 1982 (right before she enrolled at Princeton University); Baker Memorial Library at Dartmouth College; preppy students make their way across campus. SEPTEMBER 2018 123
This spread, clockwise from top left: Nova Octo’s chic Tribeca showroom; model Jessica Barta Lam in Johanna Ortiz; a Monique Lhuillier dress on the Spring ’17 runway, now available for rent; Nova Octo founder and CEO Silje Lübbe.
Y V O N N E T N T; CO U RT E S Y O F N OVA O C TO
AN ATELIER TO SHARE BY ANN LOYND BURTON
WELCOME TO THE ERA of sharing: Uber, Airbnb, Rent the Runway… But can “borrowing” ever be luxurious? According to Nova Octo founder Silje Lübbe, it can. Her couture rental company offers oneof-a-kind pieces that perhaps wouldn’t have seen the light of day without her help, as she outfits New York’s elite for charity galas, fashion events, and red-carpet appearances. “Working in the industry, I would see these pieces go into stock rooms, or marked down 70-percent,” Lübbe notes. “And with the sustainability movement, many women won’t spend $8,000 on a dress to wear once, even if they have the money. So, I thought, let me create this archive of beautiful pieces.” Drawing upon her connections with designers and luxury retailers culled over years in the industry working as a buyer, Lübbe has created such an archive, including pieces from Giambattista Valli, Oscar de la Renta, Elie Saab, Marchesa—you name it—in Nova Octo’s Tribeca showroom. But don’t expect to shop looks that just came off the runway; the product mix includes vintage and couture pieces that don’t put an emphasis on season. And if it is brand new, you won’t know it, as Lübbe will order gowns in a different color or slightly SEPTEMBER 2018 125
This page: Nova Octo’s showroom features one-of-a-kind finds and couture creations that embody founder Silje Lübbe’s seasonless concept. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: DJ Bec Adams; Mallory Edens in Rasario on the ESPYs red carpet; Josephine Skriver in Giambattista Valli couture at the Cannes Film Festival; Sif Saga in a Maria Lucia Hohan gown; models Kayla Clarke in Rasario and Afiya Bennett in
customized style than what you’ll find at retail, so customers never run the risk of showing up at an event in the exact same gown as someone else. The idea behind Lübbe’s concept is that everyone wins: “My goal isn’t to compete with retail—they’re the ones keeping the brands alive,” she says, noting that even celebrity stylists can’t tell the seasons apart when they come into her boutique. Her hope is to never see a couture gown hit the sale rack. “I think eveningwear shouldn’t fit into the same cycle as ready-towear—so much work goes into these items,” she says. Celebrating her grand opening this month, the reception to Nova Octo has been astounding. So far, Lübbe says two demographics have formed her client base. “I have the young, New York girl about town who’s coming in for a Balmain short dress to wear to an event or dinner. A lot are models,” she explains. “My second client is in her mid-30s—the gala attendee. She’s an executive who is definitely well-off, she knows the value of what a couture gown is and what she can rent it at.” So far, many customers have lived in the Tribeca area and 126 QUEST
have discovered Nova Octo by chance just walking by, but Lübbe says the brand isn’t just appealing to downtown women; many items have shipped internationally. “More than anything, it’s a real chance to dress up,” she notes. “My client wears this quality in her day-to-day life, but she’s conscious at this moment about how she spends and waste. We want to get women in here with our professional stylists and feel amazing—feel like how a celebrity looks on the red carpet.” She should know—so far, Nova Octo has dressed Josephine Skriver for the Cannes Film Festival, Mallory Edens for the ESPYs, and other celebrities including Nina Agdal, Melissa Joan Hart, and Jennifer Morrison. Moving forward, Lübbe sees Nova Octo’s online presence and international business taking off, and is starting to dabble in accessories, but she’s taking her time growing the business. “We don’t want to rush. We take a lot of pride in the pieces we’re picking, not just because they’re popular in the moment,” she says. “It’s not going shopping—we’re going to dress you for an event.” u
Y V O N N E T N T; S H U T TE R S TO C K
Badgley Mischka vintage couture pose with Lübbe at the Nova Octo grand opening; clutches by L’Alingi and Emm Kuo—all through Nova Octo.
AN AUSTRALIAN ACCENT ON ITALIAN TRADITION
O P P O S I TE PA G E : PI E R R E TO U S S A N I T
PERCHED ON THE airy second floor of a handsome SoHo loft, the New York showroom of the Australian-based menswear brand P. Johnson offers a sunny new take on an old tradition: fine tailoring. Like the clothing itself, the space is easy, uncluttered, and seemingly carefree, yet meticulously put together: bright white walls, wood-beamed ceilings, comfy sofas, and the soft give of sisal carpeting at your feet. Just by walking in, you feel like you’ve taken a load off—and that’s before a refreshing Negroni has been mixed and served as you browse the racks of hanging suits or the rows of folded plush sweaters and accessories. The road from Australia to New York began back in 2008 with a simple goal by Patrick Johnson, the brand’s founder: to help men dress better by providing them with the best items from around the world. Johnson had a vision for clothing that not only fit but that was also a joy to wear; he endeavored to offer a kind of tailoring he couldn’t quite find for himself— soft, flattering, beautiful, and with a focus on value. For him, everything was either too stiff, too heavy, or unflattering. He
T H I S PA G E : J A M E S H A RV E Y K E LLY ( J O H N S O N ) ; G LE N A LL S O P ( S H O W RO O M )
BY DANIEL CAPPELLO
This page: Gray gabardine s150 merino suit (available custommade) layered with P. Johnson’s burgundy merino rollneck sweater. Opposite page: The P. Johnson showroom in New York, located at 145 Spring Street in SoHo (above); founder Patrick Johnson, photographed in his namesake brand’s off-white merino pullover.
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This page: P. Johnson’s navy merino cashmere shirt jacket and drawstring trousers. Opposite page: P. Johnson’s light blue Oxford shirt (available made-tomeasure), navy single-breasted merino cardigan, houndstooth merino and camel hair jacket (available made-to-measure), navy knitted gilet, and white corduroy pleated trousers (available made-to-measure).
T H I S PA G E : H A N N A H S M I T H / O P P O S I T E PA G E : PI E R R E TO U S S A I N T
believed no one was making tailored clothing that met the needs of today’s world. And so a brand was born. Established in Sydney and now with showrooms in Sydney, Melbourne, New York, and London, P. Johnson creates elegant and versatile wardrobes. Ask any man being fitted in the showroom, and he’ll tell you a P. Johnson suit is a new staple of modern luxury: lightweight, supple, and constructed in the artisanal Italian manner to ensure a soft and flexible feel every time it touches the body. Johnson’s appreciation for craftsmanship began early on. “In my late teens,” he tells me, “I was halfway through a science degree and started playing around with a mate, making a few pieces. We would go through all of the local vintage stores and Frankenstein looks together, essentially playing dress-up.” He was drawn to American styles of the Ivy League and ’70s sportswear. “It was lots of fun and we kept it up,” eventually starting P. Johnson. “Today, that mate—Tom Riley—and I still work together.” The majority of P. Johnson’s tailoring is crafted in its Tuscan atelier, Sartoria Carrara, based in the marble-forged landscape of the Apuan Alps in Tuscany, an area with a rich history in sartorial craftsmanship. Nearly three years ago, Johnson and his team invested in a workshop they had already been working with to create something new—a place where they could experiment
and learn. When they started, the workshop employed 12 people who dealt mostly with small Italian and British tailors. Today, they employ over 50 people who are bringing the P. Johnson vision to the world, stitch by stitch. Slip on a P. Johnson jacket, and you feel like you’re putting on an old favorite that’s fit perfectly for years. They are known for their comfort and understated design, which focuses on pure, minimal lines. The cloth’s character is brought to life through the use of traditional pad-stitched floating-canvas chest bastes, and each is finished with hand-worked pick stitching and buttonholes. Johnson likes to say that you should wear a suit the same way you would pajamas—unconsciously—and the craftsmanship helps to this end. In addition to suiting, P. Johnson offers made-to-measure shirts in endless combinations of color, drape, and texture. The ready-to-wear and accessories are just as finely edited and sleek, with a hint of whimsy or pattern here and there. Ties, shoes, swimwear, jewelry, and fine knits and outerwear are modern basics done just right. The variety is inspired in part by Johnson’s own dressing habits. “I love layering,” he says. “I like to mix different elements from my wardrobe together— fine tailoring with sportswear, outerwear, and not to mention knitwear. Lots of fun.” But if he had to pick one favorite from the label’s latest offering for fall? “Our s160 merino varsity jacket. It’s incredible.” u SEPTEMBER 2018 131
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J.McLaughlin’s Walden Coat, Arlette S Q U I R E F OX
Turtleneck, Ross Pant, and Mercer Flat are right at home in Beacon Hill (opposite page). Wearing the Nova Vest, Esther Blouse, Lexi Jean, Jenna Clutch, and Lillie Ankle Boots (this page) in front of Boston’s Old State House.
WHERE DO YOU WANT to be the first week of September? For those on the J.McLaughlin team, it was a no-brainer: Boston. The birthplace of prep and quintessential college town, nothing screams fall more than this New England hub. Plus, Bean Town has been a boom town of late, topping “most expensive city” lists due to a thriving economy bolstered by startup culture and the tech boom (home to such companies as TripAdvisor, Wayfair, and HubSpot, to name a few). It was only fitting to present the brand’s new collection for autumn in Boston, highlighting such iconic locales as Brattle Book Shop, Row 34, and Rouvalis Flowers. Luckily, the timing just so happened to coincide with a big renovation happening in J.McLaughlin’s Beacon Hill store, which cofounder Kevin McLaughlin calls “the flagship of that community.” One of Boston’s most picturesque areas, Beacon Hill boasts hilly streets lined with Victorian brick row houses lit with antique lanterns, the Charles River Esplanade, the formal Public Garden, and tony boutiques and antique shops. This page, clockwise from top left: In Boston’s harbor, the Burke Jacket, Skip Sweater, Mini Jaipur Scarf, and Lexi Jean (on her) and Gear Vest and Taylor Pant (on him) set sail; the Laney Jacket, Odeera Sweater, Lexi Jean, and Mila Heels walk Beacon Hill’s cobblestone streets; she’s a catch
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in the Arlette Turtleneck, Petra Skirt, Sienna Clutch, and Mila Heels at Row 34. Opposite page: Browsing Brattle Book Shop in the Lorraine Reversible Coat and Leo Pant and reaching the top shelf (inset) in the Devon Dress, Nora Reversible Belt, and Kat Kitten Heels. SEPTEMBER 2018 135
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This page, from left: Strutting out of the T in the Diaz Dress, Chiara Sunglasses, and Kat Kitten Heels; coffee run in the Fitz Cardigan, Carnegie Shirt, and Leland Pant; wearing the Pella Coat and Lele Legging (on girl) and Raquel Jumpsuit, Bale Coral Bracelet, Sienna Clutch, and Mila Heels for mommy-and-me time. Opposite page, from left: Enjoying happy hour in the Carnegie Shirt and Taylor Pant, Tanner Jacket and Sonny Dress, and Elodie Blouse, Ruby Reversible Belt, and Watson Jean.
egy is to meet its consumer at all points—from the store to the site and catalog (which, Coyne says, is the brand’s number one acquisition vehicle). Still, the magic of J.McLauglin is best communicated through the store’s exquisitely styled displays, comfortable yet chic interiors, and impeccable customer service. That’s why the brand is putting so much energy into the Charles Street flagship, which will re-open this month with a celebration on September 12 in partnership with Dana Farber and hosted by award-winning Boston chef Jeremy Sewall. Then, on September 22, 15 percent of store proceeds across Massachusetts will benefit the hospital, which is deeply entrenched in the state’s communities. “It’s in keeping with our local and loyal philosophy,” Coyne explains, noting that its philanthropic ethos is a core tenant of J.McLaughlin. “We weave ourselves into our customer’s lives and the commerce happens after that,” McLaughlin says. “We’re grateful.” u
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Situated on the charming Charles Street, the new store design will feature a toned-down, more sophisticated color palette and interior created by residential architect Doug Larson. “Like fashion itself, the mood of the store changes, you have to continuously refresh,” McLaughlin says of the update. “But you always know when you’re in a J.McLaughlin store.” That feeling of stepping into a J.McLaughlin boutique is a little slice of home that pulls customers in wherever they may travel. “Our customer base is consistent, but it’s nuanced by that moment in time. We’re servicing their lifestyle wherever they are,” explains Mary Ellen Coyne, CEO. “Our stores are a remarkable reflection of that.” The same goes for the selection, which is influenced by each locale (and the types of pieces customers may want there, like a bright tunic in Palm Beach versus a leather jacket in New York), but always with the thread of staples customers know and love. “Our customer has the foundations in their wardrobe, but at the same time, they want to be modern,” McLaughlin explains. “We want to respect their traditions but offer as much fashion as they would like.” For the fall collection, that translates to sophisticated takes on trend-right patterns like animal print and camo. “It’s designed in such a way so that the patterns and the colors are sophisticated,” Coyne notes. “It’s very elevated for a camo.” Leather jackets, cozy cashmere, and great accessories round out the selection. In an ever-changing retail landscape, J.McLaughlin’s strat-
ROSE GARDEN DINNER WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2018
Purchase tickets now at nybg.org/rosedinner or contact Thao Phan at 718.817.8774 or tphan@nybg.org 5:30 p.m. Cocktails in the Peggy Rockefeller Rose Garden • 7 p.m. Dinner in the Garden Terrace Room #RoseDinnerNYBG
The Board of The New York Botanical Garden will honor Marjorie G. Rosen in recognition of her long-standing leadership and support of the Garden.
Rose Garden Dinner Leadership Dinner Chairs Maureen and Richard Chilton Amy Goldman Fowler and Cary Fowler Diane Katzin and Rick Kurnit Adam R. Rose and Peter R. McQuillan Jeffrey A. Rosen Mish Tworkowski and Joseph Singer Caroline A. Wamsler, Ph.D. and DeWayne N. Phillips Vice Chairs Vera Aryeh and Robert Gossett Friederike Kemp Biggs J. Barclay Collins and Kristina Durr Larry E. Condon and John J. Hoffee Ted and Erin Conway Jerry Ann Woodfin Costa and Victor Costa Jill Joyce Elaine and Ken Langone Gina Love and Steve Feldman Susan E. Lynch Susan E. Matelich Janet and Tom Montag Mr. and Mrs. John R. Robinson Ellen and Kenneth Roman Janet C. Ross Mr. and Mrs. Charles M. Royce Julie and Nick Sakellariadis Mr. and Mrs. Edward K. Weld List in formation
Proceeds support the Fund for Horticulture and the continued preservation and development of the historic Peggy Rockefeller Rose Garden.
Peggy Rockefeller Rose Garden
About the Rose Garden Dinner On Wednesday, September 26, 2018, NYBG celebrates the Rose Garden Dinner. This annual event features the Botanical Garden’s world-famous Peggy Rockefeller Rose Garden, designed by celebrated landscape architect Beatrix Farrand in 1916, and fully realized in 1988 through a generous gift by Peggy and David Rockefeller. With nearly 700 cultivated varieties, the Rockefeller Rose Garden is one of the most spectacular displays at The New York Botanical Garden. Long lauded as one of the most beautiful rose gardens in America, it has been transformed in recent years into one of the most sustainable public rose gardens in the world. The Rose Garden Dinner is a celebration of the glorious autumn flowering of the Botanical Garden’s magnificent rose collection. The evening begins with cocktails in the Peggy Rockefeller Rose Garden, followed by an elegant dinner in the Garden Terrace Room. The event attracts 300 members of the Garden’s extended family, and raises more than $600,000 to support the Fund for Horticulture and the continued preservation and development of one of the world’s premier rose venues. For more information and tickets, please contact Thao Phan at 718.817.8774 or tphan@nybg.org or visit nybg.org/rosedinner
About Our Honoree Marjorie G. Rosen is being honored for her long-standing leadership and support of The New York Botanical Garden, including 22 years of service on the Horticulture Committee, which she currently chairs, and her service on the Board of Trustees since 2002, currently as Vice Chair and member of the Executive Committee. Marjorie has been an important member of the Garden community, dedicating her time and interests to many institutional advancement efforts, from Co-Chair of the Patrons Council and now Honorary Chair, to multiple leadership positions in the Special Events Program. We are also fortunate that Marjorie generously contributed her expertise and support for the redesign of NYBG’s Seasonal Walk, which was dedicated in 2014 and now bears her name. Marjorie’s passion for horticulture and talent for gardening are evident in her own garden where a stunning selection of rose varieties can be found.
ROSE GARDEN DINNER SEPTEMBER 27, 2017
At the 2017 Rose Garden Dinner, NYBG honored Jeanie and Harry Burn in recognition of their extraordinary leadership and great generosity in enhancing the Garden’s celebrated landscape and bolstering its programs in plant research and conservation.
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1. Bill and Anne Harrison, Harry and Jeanie Burn, Gregory Long, Patti and Eric Fast 2. Richard and Maureen Chilton 3. Chuck and Deborah Royce 4. Spencer and Lindsay Grimes 5. John and Carmen Thain 6. Susan and George Matelich 7. Vickie Zoellner, Gordon and Rehana Uehling 8. Mish Tworkowski, Gillian Steel 9. Marjorie Rosen, Douglas Dockery Thomas 10. Bob and Pam Goergen, Emma and Todd Goergen 11. DeWayne Phillips and Caroline Wamsler 12. Barclay Collins and Kristina Durr 13. Blake and Daniel Hubbard Photographed by the Billy Farrell Agency
SUSTAINABILITY SUMMIT & DINNER THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 1, 2018
Native to the U.S., Oaks (Quercus) are iconic trees in forests and woodlands and symbols of resolute longevity.
Join us for thought-provoking and actionable ideas from industry leaders in environmental stewardship.
The NYBG Sustainability Summit & Dinner is dedicated to inspiring discussion about environmental and climate challenges facing the world today and the leadership strategies providing creative and strategic solutions—for business, government, and people everywhere. This annual event opens with an evening seminar, followed by dinner, featuring thought-leaders and innovators at the intersection of ecology and commerce who will lead conversations that examine efforts to address the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals, actions to go beyond mitigation toward adaptation, and ideas to propel next-level results. HONORING Lord Norman Foster President, the Norman Foster Foundation Founder and Executive Chairman, Foster + Partners Architects of Bloomberg, London “The Most Sustainable Office Building in the World” SPEAKERS Don Anderson Operating Partner and Chief Sustainability Officer, Blackstone Lisette Camilo Commissioner, NYC DCAS Kathy Loftus Global Sustainability Leader, Whole Foods Market Kathy McLeod SVP, Global Environmental & Social Risk Executive, Bank of America Sophia Mendelsohn Head of Sustainability & Environmental Social Governance, JetBlue Paul Polizzotto President & Founder, EcoMedia; Founder & CEO, Givewith Mahesh Ramanujam President & CEO, U.S. Green Building Council Aniket Shah Head of Sustainable Investing, Oppenheimer Funds Be a part of the conversation. Learn how and purchase tickets now at nybg.org/summit2018
HOLIDAY TRAIN SHOW® FAMILY BENEFIT WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2018; 4–8 P.M.
Purchase tickets now at nybg.org/familybenefit or contact Heather Gries at 718.817.8657 or hgries@nybg.org #HTSFamilyBenefit
Celebrate the holiday season and experience the Holiday Train Show® like never before with the return of this exciting family event!
Holiday Train Show Family Benefit Leadership
Honorary Chair Jill Joyce Grandparent Chairs Sandra Hughes Carmen and John Thain With a special appearance by Chef Carla Hall
Festivities begin with a private viewing of the Holiday Train Show®, passed hors d’oeuvres, a full bar, and plenty of treats for the kids. The fun continues in the Gingerbread Café, where guests can enjoy a variety of activities, the joyful tunes of the New York City Children’s Chorus, and indulge in classic holiday recipes for dinner.
The Exhibition Enchanting model trains zip through a display of more than 175 landmarks, each re-created with bark, leaves, and other natural materials—all under the twinkling glow of the Enid A. Haupt Conservatory.
© Robert Benson Photography
Benefit Chairs Ashley and Andrew Burr Cristina and Christopher Cuomo Elizabeth and Chris Davis Emma and Todd Goergen Lindsay and Spencer Grimes Gillian Hearst Jennifer and Beau Lescott Kamie and Richard Lightburn Allison and Roberto Mignone Alexandra Steel Scott and James Scott Kate Solomon and David Wasserman Julia and Ted Weld
Proceeds support The New York Botanical Garden’s Edible Academy, the hub of the children’s vegetable gardening program. The Edible Academy, with the Ruth Rea Howell Vegetable Garden as its centerpiece, is a state-of-the-art facility for education, hands-on activities, and programs that helps children, families, teachers, and the general public learn about growing and preparing vegetables, fruit, and herbs while encouraging a lifelong interest in gardening and healthy living. The expanded three-acre campus features a classroom building with a green roof, demonstration kitchen, and technology lab; a teaching greenhouse; a solar pavilion; and a terraced amphitheater, as well as new display gardens, to accommodate a broader range of programs and double the number of people served each year. Learn how to get involved at nybg.org/edibleacademy
WINTER WONDERLAND BALL FRIDAY, DECEMBER 14, 2018 Purchase tickets now at nybg.org/wwb or contact Heather Gries at 718.817.8657 or hgries@nybg.org 7:30 p.m. Cocktails in the Enid A. Haupt Conservatory • 8:30 p.m. Dinner and Dancing in the Conservatory Tent The Winter Wonderland Ball, named the “best party of the season,” has become synonymous with New York City glamour and nightlife. #WinterBallNYBG
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1. Natalie Bloomingdale, Ariana Rockefeller, Georgina Bloomberg 2. Michaela Vybohova, Alex Assouline 3. Gillian Hearst 4. Toby Milstein, Larry Milstein 5. Sebastian Bland, Sarah Chilton 6. Timo Weiland, Mia Moretti 7. Zack Thain, Karly FitzGerald 8. Nina Agdal 9. Anne Marie Dianne, Mame Thioube 10. Caitlin FitzGerald, May Kwok 11. Cristina Cuomo, Emma Goergen 12. Micaela Erlanger 13. Peter Brant Jr. 14. Lili and Howard Buffett 15. Savannah Engel 16. Pamela Tick 17. Serena Marron, Andrew Boszhardt Photographed by the Billy Farrell Agency
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THE YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST BY BROOKE KELLY
Whitney Wolfe Herd and Malcolm Carfrae.
Clockwise from top left: Sylvanna Ward Durett and Luisana Mendoza; Candice Miller posing in front of the beach dinner’s long wooden farm table; the event was co-hosted by Sara Foster, Erin Foster, and fashion designer Rachel Zoe, in addition to Bumble CEO Whitney Wolfe Herd; Brian Atwood shows off Bumble swag at the dinner table; Casey Fremont chatting in front of the beach sunset.
BUMBLE’S LATE-SUMMER SOIRÉE AT THE SURF LODGE
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THE BUMBLE HIVE at the Surf Lodge was buzzing last month
when the dating app’s founder, Whitney Wolfe Herd, hosted a summer soirée with the help of Rachel Zoe, Sara Foster, and Erin Foster. Over a candlelit dinner on the beach, an intimate group of guests raised a glass to Bumble’s recent accomplishments. Notables in attendance included Brian Atwood, Christie Brinkley, Gucci Westman, Lise Evans, Sarah Bray, Jamie Tisch, Andrea Lieberman, Andrew Marks, and Ashley Brokaw. Open through Labor Day, Bumble’s pop-up Hive at the Surf Lodge has
served as a cozy space for guests to enjoy drinks, snacks, interactions with influencers at events, and access to exclusive Bumble swag. In addition to Bumble Hive, the company has enjoyed a wealth of success as of late, having most recently introduced its Bumble Bizz vertical. This platform allows users to connect with like-minded professionals to learn about each other, share knowledge, and ultimately find their next career. The brand has proven itself as one of the fastest-growing networking companies through the expansion of such initiatives. SEPTEMBER 2018 149
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Left to right: DJ Chelsea Leyland playing beats at Miami Swim Week’s highly anticipated Sports Illustrated Swimsuit show; Christie Brinkley, who served as a judge at the open casting event, with Olivia Cuolpo; models Tamara Eccleston,
▲ MIAMI SWIM WEEK
▼ GETAWAY MUSIC FESTIVAL IN CHARLESTON
DURING MIAMI SWIM week, Sports Illustrated Swimsuit hosted its inaugural three-day open casting-call event, encouraging rookies from around the globe to walk the highly anticipated runway show at the W South Beach. Contestants were chosen by a panel of judges including MJ Day, Kate Upton, Christie Brinkley, Hailey Clauson, and Kate Bock. Additional famed models, including Olivia Culpo, Hunter McGrady, and Myla Dalbesio, were onsite to offer tips and advice. More than 900 guests attended the show, which featured a performance by Justine Skye and sips of Whispering Angel rosé.
MID JULY, Bud Light hosted its first-ever Getaway Musical
Left to right: Country singer Sam Hunt being interviewed by Katie Krause on site at Bud Light’s Getaway Music Festival in Riverfront Park in North Charleston, South Carolina; folk-pop artist Harry Hudson delivering an unforgettable performance at the Bud Light dive bar pop-up; guests tailgating at the park before the festivities. 150 QUEST
Festival in Charleston’s Riverfront Park. The show featured performances from top artists, including Sam Hunt, Lil Jon, and Dashboard Confessional. Folk-pop artist Harry Hudson also delivered a lively act at the site’s mobile dive bar, featuring his songs “Cry for Love” and “Gone.” In addition to the musical performances, Bud Light offered pop-ups including a Stitch Shop, mobile brewery with fresh beer, and a Citrus Summer Lounge. Proceeds from the affair benefited Surfrider Grand Stand Chapter for ocean preservation.
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Vita Sidorkina, Chase Carter, and Anne de Paula.
W Clockwise from top left: Lindsey Katalan; DJ Adam Lipson; Kerry Pieri and Natalie Obradovich in front of the floral arrangements by Millstone Flowers, who decorated the shop with hundreds of blooms inspired with Sam Edelman’s whimsical SS18 collection; Amanda Beckwith; Arielle Charnas enjoying the sip-and-shop experience, which also included magical images by Natalie Obradovich seen in the background; Leslie Johnson, Lizzi Bickford, and Permele Doyle.
PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N
SAM EDELMAN HOSTS A SIP AND SHOP AT ITS SOUTHAMPTON BOUTIQUE ON AUGUST 2, top players in the world of fashion gathered at Sam Edelman’s Southampton shop for a midsummer mix and mingle. The event was executed by Harper’s Bazaar digital editor Kerry Pieri, who pulled together an assortment of selects from the brand’s SS18 collection for guests to shop alongside a collection of wanderlust images shot by acclaimed photographer Natalie Obradovich. Adding to the enchanting atmosphere, Millstone Flowers decorated the boutique with hundreds of florals inspired by the collection and invited
guests to create their own bouquets of pesticide-free blooms sourced from sustainable farms. Fashionable attendees, including Arielle Charnas and Candice Miller, also had the opportunity to enjoy beauty services by Revolve Hair, beats by DJ Adam Lipson, light bites by Peter Ambrose Catering, wine by Boutique Vintner Vinny, and gifts by Skin Laundry. The event served as a reflection of Sam Edelman’s continued devotion to an irreverent and whimsical style—modern luxury that plays on timeless elegance. u SEPTEMBER 2018 151
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“Where There’s Smoke, There’s Fire,” ca. 1925, by the American illustrator Russell Patterson, who is often credited with “inventing” flapper fashion.
BEFORE THERE WAS Instagram, there was fashion photography. And before fashion photography, there was the era of the illustrator. Imagine a world in which a drawing could launch a thousand ships—or, quite impressively, define a decade’s singular look. Such was the world in which Russell Patterson reigned supreme. A prolific cartoonist, illustrator, and set designer, Patterson’s Art Deco magazine illustrations helped shape the fashion styles of the 1920s and ’30s—most importantly, the flapper look: that urbane woman about town with long legs and patent-leather hair. Patterson illustrated the covers of Life magazine and designed Macy’s store windows and movie sets alike; he’s also credited as costume designer for Fox and Paramount Pictures. According to his 1977 obituary in the New York Times, he “started” the flap152 QUEST
per in Chicago around 1926 for no reason other than that he had read F. Scott Fitzgerald and, as an illustrator, wanted to create a different look from the somewhat bovine beauties of the day. This creative itch lent itself to the “Patterson Girl,” that iconic, instantaneously recognizable ’20s woman. In Patterson’s illustration above, a fashionable flapper stands with one hand on her hip and a cigarette in the other; a stream of smoke forms a curing, twisting, decorative line. Several years later, in the early 1930s, Patterson would be the first to depict women in sleek evening pajamas (a trend that, not so incidentally, is back today). “The emancipation of woman is at hand,” he remarked at the time. “In a year she will free herself of skirts and probably never come back to them.” —Daniel Cappello
L I B R A RY O F CO N G R E S S
RUSSELL PATTERSON: THE ORIGINAL “INFLUENCER”
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