Quest October 2018 by QUEST Magazine

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THE DOWNTOWN ISSUE

STYLE BLOGGERS SOPHIE AND CHARLOTTE BICKLEY AT THE JANE HOTEL IN THE WEST VILLAGE

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CONTENTS T he D ownTown Issue 96

SECRETS TO SAVVY SHOPPING A pair of style bloggers helps us navigate the ever-changing world of fashion. by sophIe anD CharloTTe bICkley

102

Uptown might have The Met, but the art world is abuzz well below 14th Street. by ann loynD burTon

108

DOWNTOWN DELIGHTS Reporting on the hottest restaurants, bars, and hotels in the hip neighborhoods of Lower Manhattan and Brooklyn. by brooke kelly

114

HISTORY MEETS HOLLYWOOD

118

SOTHERN EXPANSION Discussing the coveted real estate markets in downtown New York and Charleston with our top agents. by brooke kelly

124

With fall exhibits on full view, the Museum of Arts and Design looks ahead to a punk show for spring. by DanIel Cappello

128

QUEST ARCHIVE The plantations of Southern Georgia are a blissful retreat into the past, as told by James MacGuire in our October 2012 issue.

134

HIGH SHOPPING IN LOWER MANHATTAN Luxe stops to shop from trusty SoHo to FiDi’s new mecca, Brookfield Place. by ann loynD burTon

DOWNTOWN INSPIRED: GALLERY GUIDE

Decoding the factual significance of the popular novel–turned–TV series The Alienist. by ann loynD burTon

MOVING FORWARD AT MAD

108

CONTENTS C olumns 24

SOCIAL DIARY

HARRY BENSON

TAKI

25 YEARS OF IMPACT

FRESH FINDS

JEWELRY

LEGACY

ART

THEATER

TRAVEL

SOCIAL CALENDAR

140

YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST

144

SNAPSHOT

Adoptions, marriages, and everything in between.

DaviD PatriCk Columbia

Remembering a day on the Brooklyn Bridge in 1990 with supermodel Lauren Hutton.

Greek spirits remain high while the economy continues to suffer. by taki theoDoraCoPulos The Breast Cancer Research Foundation marks a quarter-century of discoveries.

Falling for autumn’s latest trends.

Daniel CaPPello

anD

elizabeth meigher

Twenty years after its birth, the Calla—Vhernier’s signature design—continues to amaze.

Few automobile companies can boast the history and aura that the Jaguar brand evokes.

TEFAF makes an artful alliance with The Society of MSK.

ann loynD burton

The Drama League prepares for its next hundred years. by ann loynD burton Casa de Campo introduces the ultimate package for men. by brooke kelly Our guide to the best luncheons, galas, and benefits this month. On the party scene at New York Fashion Week.

brooke kelly

An intimate look at the inside life of Studio 54, as told from someone who was a regular.

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Clockwise from left: Fall arrives at The Dutch, in SoHo; Ann Loynd Burton sorts the facts from TNT’s The Alienist; our cover feature spotlights style bloggers Sophie and Charlotte Bickley; the Four Seasons Downtown offers a luxurious gateway to Lower Manhattan; head to the Whitney next month to see

many parts of downtown were still unchartered territory for the au courant crowd looking for the next best thing. The Meatpacking District, true to its name, was still mostly a slaughterhouse station; Keith McNally had only recently made his way to the neighborhood in the form of Pastis, his Paris–meets–New York brasserie that was then all the rage. He hadn’t ventured yet to the Lower East Side (with Schiller’s Liquor Bar) or to the Bowery (with Pulino’s). New York’s downtown scene still had a distinctly “New York” flavor. One of the coolest spots was a diner in Meatpacking, Florent, which was open all night. It was the kind of place you’d end up at 4:00 in the morning after leaving a nightclub and needing one last stop with a greasy fix. Champagne and burgers at sunrise—you couldn’t beat it. Today, Florent is long gone, but there are plenty of posh boîtes and hotels with rooftops that are the new late-night sanctuaries. Pastis is gone, too, alas, and so is all the seediness that once lined the cobblestone streets. Today’s downtown is a thriving and reinvented metropolis all its own, as this issue affirms. It’s like a city unto itself: manicured parks, running paths along the Hudson River, luxury high-rises, some of the best schools . . . and on and on. Brooke Kelly took the lead in navigating our way downtown, checking in on everything, from the area’s top brokers for real-estate tips to penning 22 QUEST

a guidebook you might find in one of downtown’s many luxury hotels. She also introduced us to our cover subjects, Sophie and Charlotte Bickley, who teach us a thing or two about dressing with downtown street smarts. It’s a new New York. But then again, isn’t that our city’s lure, be it uptown or down? u

Daniel Cappello ON THE COVER: Style bloggers and sisters Sophie and Charlotte Bickley photographed by Yumi Matsuo at the Jane Hotel, in the historic West Village. Part of our cover feature, “Secrets to Savvy Shopping” (p. 96), produced by Brooke Kelly.

K ATA V E R M E S / T N T; C A R LY T U M E N ( B I C K LE Y ) ; F O U R S E A S O N S H OTE L N E W Y O R K D O W N TO W N ;

WHEN I MOVED back to New York from Paris back in 2000,

Andy Warhol’s Marilyn Diptych, 1962.

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A

David Patrick Columbia

NEW YORK SO CIAL DIARY IN THE FIRST WEEK of September the autumn social season in New York officially began, at least in my book. It marked the annual FIT Museum’s Couture Council luncheon, where this year they honored Narciso Rodriguez with the 2018 Couture Council Award for Artistry in

Fashion, on the Promenade of the David Koch Theater at Lincoln Center. I’ve been covering this lunch almost since the beginning. For several years it was held on the first day of Fashion Week. The Couture Council was created to assist the Museum at FIT in rais-

ing its profile and sponsoring more exhibitions. Their latest, “Pink: The History of a Punk, Pretty, Powerful Color,” is currently on view. Louis XIV’s Madame de Pompadour started the craze back in the early 18th century. When the Couture Coun-

cil first held the luncheon at Lincoln Center, Fashion Week was centered in the tents set up beside the Metropolitan Opera House. Those days are gone, of course, and even Fashion Week—or popular fashion itself—is in a state of redefinition here and everywhere

M E T R O P O L I TA N O P E R A ’ S A N N UA L G A L A AT L I N C O L N C E N T E R

Daniel Benedict and Ashley Haas

24 QUEST

Padma Lakshmi, Bill Powers and Cynthia Rowley

Lilah Ramzi and Veronica Speck

Darwin Shaw and Patricia Clarkson

Jack Brinkley-Cook and Nina Agdal

Christine Baranski and Charles Shapiro

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

Adam Johnson and Whitney Larkin

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else. This year Fashion Week seemed to come and go like a passing cloud. Several hundred women and men attend the luncheon, and it’s very effective for raising funds for the Museum at FIT. It’s mainly a “ladies lunch,” but it’s also a “business” (fundraising and industry) luncheon, so there are a lot of men in attendance as well as among the recipients. The honoree was presented his award by Jessica Seinfeld, wife of that Seinfeld. Mrs. Seinfeld delivered her address about him with rarely a look at the speech she had prepared on paper. 26 QUEST

I was reminded of seeing her husband’s performance at the Beacon a couple of years ago (very hilarious): 90 minutes of stand-up delivered as if it were off the top of his head. Someone later told me that Mr. Seinfeld rehearses and rehearses and rehearses to the point where, when he delivers, it seems like it comes off the top. Mr. Rodriguez, despite his great designing talents, has a modest bearing. At one point he stopped his acceptance, as if he’d possibly forgotten what he was going to say—except the words were on cards before him. Then, in giving thanks, he honored

Mindy Kaling

Camilla Belle

Rita Wilson and Kate Beckinsale

Riley Keough and Charlize Theron

his mother and father who “worked hard all their lives” to give their son the opportunity to make the career he made. It was a very moving moment for both the designer and the guests, following by a great round of appreciative applause. This year’s luncheon raised $950,000, which will pay for the “Pink” exhibition and several others, as well as help the students at FIT with their work. FIT is a college very effective in preparing its students for employment in the Great Big World. Would that all universities could make that claim. Dr. Valerie Steele, the

museum’s director, opened the speeches, followed by Dr. Joyce Brown, whose work has greatly expanded FIT, which now has 9,000 students. After the honoring, luncheon co-chairs Angela Dotson and Jean Shafiroff thanked guests for attending and brought Yaz Hernandez and Liz Peek (the main founder of the Couture Council) for the raffle (the number on a ticket given to each guest with their seating) of a python-skin handbag. And the show was over by 1:30. Fashion portends, explains, and extends. It goes

B FA

Jennifer Meyer, Molly Sims and Kelly Sawyer

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A with the territory; it’s an important factor not only in daily life but also in history. I recently read a biography of Charles James by Michele Gerber Klein. James was born at the beginning of the last century in England. His mother was an American heiress from Chicago, and his father was a British military man. He had the proper upper-middle-class upbringing. He attended Harrow, where he made a lifelong friend of Cecil Beaton, but did not finish. In his travels he met Elsa Schiaparelli (grandmother of the Berenson sisters, Marisa and Berry). He was artistically inclined from youth onwards.

He got into the “design” business by making hats, which he first sold in Chicago (his mother’s hometown) to the ladies of society like Edith Rockefeller McCormick and other contemporary friends of his mother. Charles’ father obviously had a problem with him, although from what Michèle reports, his father clearly had a problem of his own. Charles admitted to being homosexual early in his life and saw nothing wrong with it. His father, however, had some kind of complex about it, and forbade his son from using the family name if he were going into business. Later in life he admitted

that when he was at Harrow, Charles’ father, the military man, got one of his officers to rape Charles “to make a man out of him.” Yes, that is confounding and no doubt was even more so for the boy. Troubled father aside, the artist in the boy kept him moving. He came to America with Schiaparelli (referred to by everyone as “Schiap”) and through work and connections he made along the way, he finally got into business and made a name for himself. His clientele read like a Who’s Who of fashion: Millicent Rogers, Babe Paley, Dominique de Menil, Mrs. William Ran-

dolph Hearst, Jr., Marietta Tree, Gloria Vanderbilt, Elizabeth Arden, Marlene Dietrich, and on and on. I’d heard his name in other conversations over the years but always with a sense of an eccentric, difficult personality who never quite made it in the fashion business. Michèle Gerber Klein’s biography is empathic but also gets down to details so you have no illusions about the man’s personality or the hardscrabble days often of his own making. He came into life during the Edwardian Age in England. He moved to Paris in the 1920s, to New York in the 1930s, and his monde

S AV E T H E C H I L D R E N H O STS B E N E F I T AT T H E M E A D O W B R O O K C L U B I N L O N G I S L A N D

Dawn and Alan Kisner with Tom Calabrese 28 QUEST

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Lisa Broadbent and Christian Haines

Deirdre and Robert O’Connell with Martin and Pat Moroney

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S AV E T H E C H I L D R E N

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A was what we’d call Society. Those girls who would be his clients, by ’20s and ’30s, were the flaming youth in aces. Millicent Rogers was a major client. Rogers was an artist herself and saw her clothes as reflections of her creative imagination, and she had money to pursue it even in her clothes. Charles and the artist reveled in his work. However, his image that survives in reputation was that of a difficult, eccentric, often outwardly angry man whose brilliance was hindered by his childhood self. Reading the man’s biography, I was amazed at how

well he survived his father’s own personal problems, which were laid on the son. This is not uncommon anywhere in life but it definitely is a detriment to a child’s progress. What emerged, nevertheless, was that he was an important artist in cultural terms who made (designed/invented/constructed) garments with a style that was and remains today alluring and beautiful—just to look at, if nothing else. Like pieces of art. This book celebrates that and gives you a true story about a man who, in his way, despite himself, succeeded into legend. Which takes me to another artist in the world of de-

sign and what we call Fashion with a capital F: Babe Paley. Thinking about this year’s Fashion Week, I was often reminded of Mrs. Paley, who, when I was a young man in New York, was the iconic fashion empress of her era (mid-20th century), in her always simple yet elegant way. The young women I knew who actually knew her always referred to her with a kind of awe in their tone of voice. It was an image frequently publicized in Women’s Wear Daily as well as society columns and the fashion magazines. I’d seen her photos in the papers but had never seen her in the flesh until one

night in November 1969. I had been volunteering in the Carter Burden campaign for city councilman, and on this night he’d won the office. He was also the son-in-law of Mrs. Paley, married then to her daughter Amanda Mortimer. The Burden campaign headquarters were in an old supermarket on the corner of 79th Street and Second Avenue (now a 30-story apartment house). The victory drew a big, happy crowd of volunteers, supporters, and friends. Standing farther back in the room, I noticed a woman slowly but carefully moving through the crowd, crossing the room, and it

C O U T U R E C O U N C I L ’ S A N N UA L L U N C H EO N FO R T H E M U S E U M AT F I T

Sydney Sadick 30 QUEST

Josie Natori and Joyce Brown

Jessica Seinfeld and Kathy Reilly

Martha Stewart and Bronson van Wyck

Ann Rapp

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N ; B FA

Fe Fendi and Stephanie March

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A was she: the fabled Babe. She was wearing classic black, and carrying a black handbag that had straps for handles and looked as if it (or life itself) was weighing her down as she moved. Naturally I was looking to see, to try to understand what fascinated all the girls about her “look.” She was well dressed, of course, and almost as if to say, “No big deal”—it was black. I knew the girls I’ve been referring did see it, even if I couldn’t. But what struck me about the woman who was by then a kind of fashion legend— and one with a very nice reputation, very well liked by all who knew or met her—was

her bearing. Although it was not perceived by most whom I knew, there was also a sadness—a weariness—about her. As she crossed that room through the crowd—her eye always on her path— there was a fatigue in her gait. And she was wearing what looked like thick, pale pancake makeup—the kind an actor applies before going onstage but not on the street. Perhaps she’d just been interviewed on camera, but the makeup drained all radiance from this beautiful woman so naturally, elegantly adorned. Several years ago, I was having lunch at Swifty’s with

a couple—friends from California—along with their daughter and another friend. Babe Paley’s name came up in conversation. I told them the story about a friend of mine who one day back in the late 1960s was walking along Fifth Avenue by the park, pushing her toddler sons in a pram. At 64th Street and Fifth, she crossed the avenue to the residential side. As she reached the corner, a very chic, beautifully dressed woman—all in gray—emerged from one of the buildings (820) and walked to a waiting limousine that matched the gray of her ensemble. My friend was so struck

by the woman’s elegance (and “perfect” taste), that as the car left the curb, she asked the building’s doorman who the lady in gray was. “Oh, that’s Mrs. Paley,” he replied. My friend recalled thinking, “I want to live there someday.” After I told this story to my friends at table, all three women had a personal story of the first time they had seen Mrs. Paley somewhere in public. Each woman recalled not only the moment but also every detail of Babe Paley’s outfit and composition. Eleanor Lambert, the grand duchess of fashion-publicity history, the

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woman who took the garment business from Seventh Avenue to the Fashion World, once told me that Babe Paley’s costume was a work of art. “If you took each piece separately and put them on hangers together, you would see the work of art.” Thinking of that moment of Babe Paley in the Carter Burden headquarters that night long ago, looking chic but very weary, I think of the artist in her. She was a modern woman of her time. Today, that same person, starting as a young woman, would have had a different life, quite possibly less wea36 QUEST

Robert De Niro and Oprah Winfrey

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risome too. Such is the nature of fashion—and of the time. The fashion of Babe Paley reminded me of later devotee of chic—Nan Kempner, who is remembered so fondly because of her style, which was, of course, much made possible by her husband’s wealth, but only in terms of actualizing. Like Babe, Nan’s style belonged to her. That included the way she conducted herself both publicly and privately. She was outgoing, open-minded, and discreet. She liked people and liked meeting new people. The worlds of the great designers and couturiers

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were always within (welcome) easy access. But her life was like that everywhere she went. And she liked getting around. Wealth made her mobility possible but Nan made her presence the pleasure and the fun. I was reminded of a sighting of the lady that I wrote about in Quest in 1995 when she was very much a leader on the fashion scene: “Mrs. Kempner, known to her friends as Nan, is a woman who more than anybody else around New York exemplifies that aphorism attributed to both Babe Paley and Gloria Guinness about how a woman can’t be

Anne Hathaway and Jessica Chastain

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too rich or too thin. Mrs. Kempner is so thin that it’s startling. She also has straight-as-an-arrow posture. So when you see her walking down the street in her Manolos, clop-de-clopde-cloppity clop, as I did one sunny autumn afternoon while having my coffee at Starbucks on Lexington and 78th; when you see her looking like she knows exactly where she’s going, you notice. Her beauty is her presence. She has good shoulders and a basically flat front and back. From either side, however, she has a small waist, small hips, and

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A long pencil-thin legs. She has a lot of thick, blonde, wavy hair. When she wears it pulled back, it accentuates a combination of the aquiline and the feline so that you might not know if she’s smiling, or plotting, just like in a novel.” I can still see that moment as if it were five minutes ago. Her marriage was long and successful, even considering a moment when an affair was brought out in the tabloids on her husband. Nan protected him. She had no intention of divorcing, and every intention of continuing to enjoy her life with him, and without him. When she knew she was leaving

us, she was most concerned about her husband’s happiness, and was certain he shouldn’t remain a widower for long. It was said that she even had someone specific in mind, knowing the needs for his happiness. She was always an independent woman. A real California girl in the jungles of New York. The pioneer spirit remains even among some of the current generation. Notes from after the long, hot summer, to the frequent rains of September, to the hurricane Florence depositing her detritus, leftover from the Carolinas, which interjected itself into our daily lives one way or the

other: Fade Out, Fade In. The Daphne Merkin interview in New York magazine with Soon-Yi and Woody Allen got the talkers talking as soon as it hit the stands. Daphne is an old friend of Woody’s. She got the idea to get Soon-Yi’s side of the story when the new “charges” against Woody were recently splashed all over the tabloids, both print and web. In the history of their now long relationship, Soon-Yi has never spoken about the story or her life. I’d read Soon-Yi’s brother Moses Farrow’s recollections and feelings about growing up as the children/charges of Ms.

Farrow. In it he disproved the possibility of Woody’s alleged passing involvement with another daughter of Mia’s. Moses’ experience of being one of Mia’s adoptees turned out to be very alienating because of her behavior toward him and the other children. I had read Daphne’s piece because I admire her insight. She is a sensible, thinking individual who is most interested in family dynamics and their effect on the children. Knowing what she knew as a longtime friend of Woody, the interview was intended to set the record straight on the relationship between the man

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and his wife, and its history. In it Soon-Yi discusses with Daphne her memories of living in Mia’s “family.” She recounts how Mia had picked her out after a oneon-one interview with her in a South Korean orphanage when the child was six or seven. Her experiences living with Mia echo the experiences Moses Farrow wrote about. I’ve known several people adopted in childhood. Their relationships with their adoptive parents varied, although several were alienated and even hated their parents. I’d read Moses’ piece because I had an instinct 40 QUEST

Mary Morgan Ketchel, Adrienne McRae and Suzanne Smothers

Sandra Lipman and Heather Thorne

of what was forthcoming. I tend to outrage when it comes to adult/child abuse. This is present in many if not all of us to one degree or another. I tend to believe children over parents when it comes to matters of abuse. Well-treated children do not go around publicly reporting mental and physical abuse. Even poorly treated children don’t. “Where there’s smoke, there’s fire” often applies. Furthermore, these memories are deeply etched in the child/adult’s consciousness. Conversely, there is often disappointment with the child on the parents’ side.

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Much depends on the emotional content of the parent/ child relationship. The best possibility for an adoptee is a hands-on mother who enjoys process of parenting and has empathy for the experience of childhood. And can accept the genetic differences. This is the toss of a coin in almost any family, adopted or not, and is very often complicated by the parents’ personal issues. In a way Soon-Yi Previn Allen was fortunate to have been taken in by Mia Farrow because it gave an her opportunity to make more of the life she was handed as a small child of poverty

in Seoul. She acknowledges this. She’s been with Woody Allen for more than 20 years now. She’s very verbal and her thoughts and opinions about herself and her life are expressed with a self-confidence that reveals a natural common sense. She acknowledges the advantage that came from Mia’s choice of her, and despite those aspects of the woman whom she hated, she expresses her admiration for Mia’s ambitious best intentions. All adopted children arrive at the home of their adoptive parents with some other adult’s DNA. Think about it. It could even be

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1. Stan Ponte, Hannah Griswold McFarland, Blair Husain and John Metzner 2. David Patrick Columbia and Maria Janice 3. Wendy Carduner and Mark Gilbertson 4. Barbara and Donald Tober 5. Susan Magrino, James Dunning and Ann Dexter-Jones 6. Pepe and Emilia Fanjul 7. Sydie Lansing 8. Gina Bonacci Clark and Stephen Candland 9. Larry Graev and Cari Tiedemann 10. Elizabeth Stribling and Guy Robinson 11. Daniel Entwistle and Martha Glass 12. Mona Arnold and Iris Love 13. Kevin McLaughlin, Pamela

Howard, Wynn Laffey and Jack Lynch 14. Sessa von Richthofen and RIchard Johnson 15. Randall Gianopulos, Elizabeth

Stribling-Kivlan and Rebecca Cleary

42 QUEST

5 7

6 4

6 10

1. Nancy Brinker and John Castle 2. Paul Chevalier, Allie Fuller

and Nick Converse 3. Harry Benson and Susan Lloyd 4. Alex Papachristidis, Cece Cord and Joel Kassimir 5. Grace Meigher and Laddy Merck 6. Pam Liebman and Howard Lorber 7. Bob Nederlander and Lynn Foster 8. Margo Langenberg 9. Jamee and Peter Gregory 10. Ingrid and John Connolly 11. Robby Browne and Anga Stallinga 12. Charlie and Posy Dana 13. Lorna Graev and Alexandra Villard de Borchgrave 14. Fernanda Kellogg and Kirk Henckels 15. Lise HonorĂŠ 16. John Johnston and Gil Walsh 17. Kasmira Della Schiava, Lara Meiland-Shaw and Cristiana Vigano 18. Elizabeth Meigher and Tinsley Mortimer 19. Callie

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OCTOBER 2018 43

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A your next-door neighbor, even someone you know and loathe. That DNA doesn’t go away as the child grows. Environment only changes things superficially—and sometimes in the case of adoption, not at all. The popular notion that a child can be reared and groomed to fit an adopter’s image and/or hope has no bearing in reality. As children we definitely can be taught language and social behavior, and we can learn to adjust in ways that is required in any family by any child—if given the opportunity. But our adopters cannot be like birth mothers and fathers because they

aren’t their childrens’ biological parents. Both Moses Farrow and Soon-Yi Previn Allen are classic examples of the phenomenon that is actually commonplace. As to their personal relationship, Soon-yi points out that she was already growing up when Woody came into the family as Mia’s boyfriend and then husband. It wasn’t until Soon-Yi was in college that she found Woody attractive. He was not made aware of it, at first. Nor did he pay much attention to her except for his obligatory role as (step)father. You can see in this how the young SoonYi cleverly used to her feminine wiles. The interview

reveals a very strong personality. If you wanted to bet on who was the boss around the Allen residence, I’d put my money on Soon-Yi. The careers of both Woody and Mia—and especially Woody—were so time-demanding that he was often rarely around. In the New York article he also adds that he and Mia had always lived in separate apartments to accommodate his work as one of the most (if not the most) prolific filmmakers. Daphne Merkin’s piece provoked quite a bit of outrage about Woody, implying that his relationship with Soon-Yi was borne out of

what we call “sexual abuse” and a “husband” cheating on his “wife” with their girl child. Or (very vaguely) incest. In the interview SoonYi makes it clear that that was not in any way related to their circumstances. Woody was a man who, by the time she came to young womanhood, struck her as a great potential future for herself. And besides, he was never married to Mia; and she liked him. Outside the drama of the “scandal” the public eats up, you could see Soon-Yi was ambitious for herself. By the time she was an older teenager, she was attracted to a very successful and famous

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writer/filmmaker. Did you ever hear of that happening to a young woman before? This was a natural result of her being adopted by Mia and her first husband, the composer/conductor André Previn. By age 20, having grown up in the world of Mia and André and Mia and Woody—which is a Big Big World in the scheme of things—Soon-Yi went after a prize. Time has borne this out. She had the right idea for herself as a young girl. She acknowledges the great advantage of being adopted by Mia; and that Mia’s reaction was not unreasonable and to be expected under the circumstances: Woody had been her sort-of “husband” and Soon-Yi was her daughter. Even though Soon-Yi never could accept Mia her as “mother.” The relationship between Woody and Mia had already

begun to “fade to black” before he and Soon-Yi started (although they did work together on Woody’s film when the “scandal” was splashing 20 years ago). What always interests me about these publicized relationships in the world of movies and celebrities or billionaires and pretty young things is how the public takes on the role of moral judge with little interest in understanding the motivation of the characters in the drama. “There’s no business like Show Business, Like no business I know….,” wrote Irving Berlin (for Ethel Merman back in the 1950s), and what was intended as a popular American song is really about life amongst us mere mortals. Books and books. At the end of last month I received a copy of the galleys

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A E ST É E L AU D E R C OM PA N I E S H O STS FA S H I O N W E E K S O I R É E I N N E W YO R K

Alexandra Parnass and Julie Van Ongevalle

of Jane Stanton Hitchcock’s new novel, Bluff, which is due out in January. Jane and I have known each other for a long time. I live in her old neighborhood (she now lives mainly in D.C.). She grew up in 10 Gracie, around the corner from me, and went to Brearley around the other corner. Hers was what you would call a privileged upbringing. Jane was brought up “steppin’ in society” in New York. Her father was a tycoon, her mother was an actress who knew everybody and entertained them all wall to wall. Which is quite an education for a witty, curious girl. 48 QUEST

William Lauder and Leonard Lauder

Danielle Lauder

Grace Elizabeth, Hilary Rhoda and Anok Yai

I admire her work. She’s naturally smart, sensitive, and perceptive. She’s also prolific: six novels, three plays, and a couple of films. All that and she continues to keep a wide array of friends and acquaintances. She’s a person who likes people to the point where one might conclude she’s “naïve,” which she is not. Not at all. I’m not much of a novel reader, although I do occasionally if it’s related to something that arouses my curiosity. So when the galleys arrived in the mail, I put it just to the right of me at my desk—the priority pile. Although in truth that

doesn’t mean it would get priority, or even attention, because I am a procrastinator by birth. That night I went out to dinner with old friends and when I got home around 10:30, after giving the dogs their late-night snack and quick “walkies” to the corner and back, I returned to my desk. Glancing at the newly received cover of Bluff, I picked it up out of what you could call polite curiosity, since I had absolutely no intention of reading a word of it at that hour. Nevertheless, I opened it to the first page, as if acknowledging the accom-

Olivia Palermo and John Demsey

Jane and Ronald Lauder

plishment of my friend by “looking” it over. (But not reading; it was already 11:30 p.m.) The publisher is Poisoned Pen Press in Scottsdale, Arizona. I was surprised. I think of Scottsdale as one of those places that are fancy suburbs in the sun. I didn’t know there was a book publisher there, too (although I can’t say why there shouldn’t be). I later learned from Jane that Poisoned Pen is one of the biggest mystery bookstores in the country. And now they publish some too. I turn to the next page. It’s titled, “Praise for Jane Stanton Hitchcock.” The first

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A praiser is Susan Cheever (“New York Times best-selling author”). Susan is a friend of mine and Jane’s. She wrote: “Bluff is a vivid, compelling novel about deceit, seduction, and delicious revenge that will keep you spellbound and cheering as you turn the last page.” Wow; no? Except book blurbs are meant to be gracious and praising, no? And a friend isn’t going to write, “It’s awful, horrible, a waste of time!” Though Susan is always honest with her words. Then came Linda Fairstein, the 21st-century American Agatha Christie with her Alexandra Cooper series. She wrote: “Jane

Hitchcock pulls off another stunning tour de force in her newest crime novel, Bluff. Nobody writes high society and its down-low denizens better than Hitchcock, and this book is her best yet…” Linda’s a friend of mine too. Like Susan, she’s smart and forthright. I know her assessments are not buttered and sugared; this is the way she really sees it. However, like I said: book blurbs? Hmm… Then a woman I don’t know, Linda Kenny Baden (“an attorney, legal commentator, and author”) wrote: “Jane Stanton Hitchcock’s Bluff is the royal flush of suspense novels! The queen of both writing and

poker aces it again.” That made me turn to the following page, written by Barbara Peters, CEO of Poisoned Pen Publishers and bookstores. In it she tells you all about Jane’s life and career and what prompted or inspired this new book. I skimmed it to get to the next page; compulsive curiosity was overtaking me. Then the next page is something you don’t see in the book you actually buy: it’s info for publicity, items, selling points, audience, along with an author bio. The Sales Handle for Bluff is this: “One-time socialite Maud Warner polishes up the rags

of her once glittering existence and bluffs her way into a signature New York restaurant. When she shoots Sun Sunderland, the ‘Pope of Finance,’ as he lunches with “accountant to the stars” Burt Sklar—the man she’s accused for years of stealing her mother’s fortune and leaving her family in ruins— she deals the first card in her high-stakes plan for revenge.” Maud sounds a little like Jane (minus the gun-totin’). Including the bit about her mother’s fortune. It was now midnight (Sunday morning), and I turn the page again. I happen to know that Jane is also a major poker player. She took

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it up a number of years ago after finishing another of her novels. I was surprised at the time because you never think of women playing poker. My father played until he lost and had to run for his life, which of course affected deeply the lives of everyone around him, so I also pretty much saw the game through a cracked and jagged lens. Like: stay AWAY. Nevertheless, Jane is very intelligent and quite self-reliantly sensible. I did tell her about my father when I first learned of her interest. It was really none of my business but I wanted to warn her about what could happen in that 52 QUEST

Lauren Kuhn and Stephanie DePre

business. For it is a business. With all this in mind, including the hour and what the morning would have waiting for me in the way of deadlines, I read the first sentence: “Death is colorful in the fall. The trees in Central Park bristle with red and gold leaves, like a beautiful dawn before the dark of winter.” She continues: “On this crisp, sunny October day in New York, I’m all dressed up for a lunch to which I’m definitely not invited. I want to look my very best.” Now if you know Jane, you know this is something you might hear her say if she’s about to tell you some incred-

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ible story about something that happened to her. So I turned the page again. The first chapter was two pages. Easy; turn to the next. Only three. And then another two and three and four. And then the pages were turning faster. And faster! By 2:30 I was on page 190 (of 247) and as much as I felt compelled, I decided to leave the book open, turn off the light, and go to bed. I knew if I finished it, I wouldn’t go right to sleep. This book is a movie that you cannot stop watching even if you have to go to the bathroom badly. It’s that bad good! I got up Sunday morning

Marie Delcioppo

about 10:30 and went right back to my desk. I finished it at noon. Like Linda Fairstein wrote, it’s a tour de force. It really is an achievement. It’s about many things and of course New York is many things. And it is a page-turner. There are three major women’s roles (if you’re a producer looking for a hot story), and it’s many other things about life among the rich, the chic, and the shameless. And America today. Yes, that too. I’d love to tell you the whole story but Jane’s version is the only one you should hear. It’ll be out right after the turn of the year. u

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H A R RY B E N S O N

IT SEEMS LIKE YESTERDAY SHE WAS A SUPERMODEL before the term was invented. Yet, to me, a better way to describe the remarkable Lauren Hutton would be persona extraordinaire. Not only has the still-in-demand Lauren graced 40 covers of Vogue, she was the first to demand a modeling contract. And after becoming the ubiquitous “Face of Revlon,” she moved on to star opposite Richard Gere in the cult classic American Gigolo. When we walked out to the middle of the Brooklyn Bridge with the World Trade Center as backdrop for this 1990 photograph, I didn’t tell Lauren heights frighten me. She, 64 QUEST

Lauren Hutton was a supermodel before the term was invented, but, for our photographer, a better way to describe her would be persona extraordinaire. She always marched to her own drum, without compromise.

of course, was as fearless as she has always been throughout her entire career. Who had ever heard of a model refusing to fix the gap in her top two front teeth and still become one of the most famous and sought-after faces of all time? As she climbed up on the railing, I told Lauren to hold on and lean in—not out the other way toward the water. She laughed and told me not to worry—a boat would catch her if she fell. I replied, “Maybe or maybe not.” As she pointed out her apartment from the bridge, the photographs were taken quickly as I didn’t have a permit for

photographing on the bridge, much less for having her stand on the railing while cars slowed to stare and wave. I like the photograph because it shows Lauren as she is—full of life and keen on adventure. Not everyone would hop up on the railing of the Brooklyn Bridge without batting an eye. But more than that, I respect Lauren Hutton as a person who has always marched to her own drum, without compromise. How many people can you say that about? ◆ This spread: Lauren Hutton on the Brooklyn Bridge in 1990.

TA K I

GREECE ISN’T BACK, BUT TAKI IS

Greek spirits are high, especially during the summer months. Pictured above is the Peloponnese coast, a popular

SOME JERK KNOW-NOTHING writes in an unreadable American newspaper that Greece is back—Athens, actually. He would; he’s an American who probably thinks that the lack of starving Greek beggars in the streets à la Calcutta back in the 1920s means we’re back. Have another hamburger, asshole, and stick to Trump-bashing. I knew Athens before it went down, and we’re not back, just us rich who are back for the summer. Take my friend Irene Pappas, wife of a Golden Dawn member of Parliament, who edits a national newspaper, EMBROS. She has three children, all 66 QUEST

doing brilliantly in their schools, but lives on a salary of 1,050 euros a month. I wish that some of those people I sometimes hear complaining of their lot lived on such a sum. How does one do it, with three children who need to be clothed, fed, and provided with books and other school needs? I had a drink with Irene, who did not complain once, was positive about the future, and asked only for fair coverage—as there is none—by the powers that own the private channels of Greek television. They call it democracy, but Golden Dawn is not allowed to be mentioned on Greek television, yet it will be either

the second- or third-biggest party in Parliament in next year’s elections. I walked around the city looking for my old haunts that are all gone. There are still some streets in the old part where jasmine-creeper and orange-tree scents mix headily with those of car fumes and honeysuckle. But all the old tavernas and their owners (all good friends) are gone, replaced by slicker joints catering to tourists. The latter are a curse but a lifeline to a place strangled by Franco-German banks. I prefer the hundreds of stray dogs and cats sunning themselves around the Acropolis. In The Spectator two weeks ago,

AP IMAGES; REDDIT

summertime destination for cruising in Southern Greece.

TA K I Martin Vander Weyer pointed out that the new era for Greece is nothing new, given that the Greek public debt went from 130 percent when the crisis began to the present 180 percent of the GDP debt. Perhaps this is an improvement if one works in the Ministry of Truth in Orwell’s 1984, but I don’t. Do these crap bankers and E.U. shills take us all for idiots? Eight years of economic strangulation in order to pay the German banks, half of the middle class of doctors, engineers, and scientists gone abroad, and the extreme leftwing clowns and charlatans who have

royals’ drinks, but they refused. So I did the next best thing. James Marlborough and I told visitors that their drinks were spiked with laxative, only to watch the King of Holland not blink an eye and down six gin and tonics in a row. His queen, Maxima, also did not do badly in the drink department, but she and I did not agree on some past history, though I remained polite as not to embarrass my hosts. My own king, Constantine, could not have been nicer, even if he did bring up my recent birthday, an obviously embarrassing subject. There were friends galore staying

tine, the people friendly and unspoiled, the food and wine fantastic. But I’m sad when I see what most are going through, and realize how lucky I am. On my last day I went down to the old part of Athens to see a 91-year-old barber who used to be junior to Demosthenes, the one who used to shave my father daily. (Gentlemen back then had their barbers shave them.) Old George knows how to cut hair like no one on earth. He gave me a short back and sides haircut that had young girls whistling at me when I emerged. (Just kidding.) But why is it that old barbers know how

Left to right: Members of the Golden Dawn—a far-right political party in Greece that can’t be mentioned on Greek television—being sworn into Parliament in Athens, 2015; the Greek flag at the Acropolis in Athens.

run the place since 2015 are saying that the chaos is over and everything’s hunky-dory. String them up with wire and I’ll gladly watch. Yet Greek spirits are up, especially during summer. I was driven down to the Peloponnese where a fast boat was waiting, and arrived on the private island of a childhood friend in a jiffy. Throughout the trip I joked with hardworking Greeks who never complain and have only positive things to say because they’re employed and treated fairly. Once on the island, I spent five days and nights cracking jokes and asking the staff to put a strong laxative in the visiting

on the island, including two Austrian ladies, one a Habsburg widow, who are friends of my son-in-law. So when I informed Jamie and Edla Marlborough that my daughter’s new home makes their Blenheim look like a doghouse, they roared with laughter. After all, if one has Blenheim, one can take even a ridiculous joke like mine. I spent time teaching their boy, Caspar, how to punch, so he hit me at least 50 times— as hard as he could—on the stomach, and by the end of five days I began to feel it. Caspar is eight. Never mind. Greece is so wonderful in summer, the water and beaches pris-

to cut hair? These so-called modern hairstylists should be arrested for false advertising about matters tonsorial. Old George talked about my dad and about Demosthenes, and then mentioned the woman who worked in that beautiful barbershop, one who used to give me enormous erections without me realizing what was happening because I did not know the facts of life. I thought it had something to do with the ice cream they used to give me while I watched old Dad getting spruced up. What fools the young are. u For more Taki, visit takimag.com. OCTOBER 2018 67

PHILANTHROPY

25 YEARS OF IMPACT The Breast Cancer Research Foundation Marks 25 Years of Lifesaving Discoveries BCRF’s support of the greatest minds in science has unquestionably propelled innovative, creative research that is moving the dial closer to a cure. Since 1993, BCRF-supported investigators have been deeply involved in every major breakthrough in breast cancer prevention, diagnosis, treatment, survivorship, and metastasis. A few game-changing discoveries include:

TWENTY-FIVE YEARS AGO, Evelyn H. Lauder and Dr. Larry Norton recognized the urgent need to eradicate breast cancer. As they sat at the Lauder kitchen table discussing how to achieve their shared dream of a world free of breast cancer, they envisioned the Breast Cancer Research Foundation. Evelyn believed that the only obstacle to achieving a cure was funding for research and saw BCRF as an opportunity to propel research and discoveries forward, faster. Together with the guidance and support of her dear friend and revered medical oncologist, Dr. Norton, they launched the Foundation in 1993. In its first year, BCRF supported eight scientists. This year, BCRF is awarding $63 million in grants to more than 300 researchers and stands as the largest private funder of breast cancer research in the world. BCRF will announce this record-breaking investment in research at its Annual Symposium and Awards Luncheon on October 25, 2018. Today, led by the vision of an esteemed Board of Directors comprised of trailblazers in business, media, and philanthropy, with Co-chairs William Lauder and Kinga Lampert, and Honorary Chair Leonard Lauder, at the helm, BCRF continues to be the leader in advancing the world’s most promising research. With Myra Biblowit serving as BCRF President and CEO for the last 17 years, the Foundation has also achieved wide recognition as the country’s most efficient and highest-rated nonprofit breast cancer organization. 68 QUEST

Genetics can predict breast cancer risk. BCRF has supported key players in advancing our understanding of the inheritable risk of breast cancer, from discoveries about BRCA1 and BRCA2 mutations to the creation of the world’s most comprehensive database of breast cancer genes. Lifestyle behaviors may reduce breast cancer risk. BCRF researchers have begun to understand how diet and exercise are linked to breast cancer risk and survival, how inflammation from obesity may trigger breast cancer development, and how a low-fat diet and weight loss can reduce the risk of recurrence. Personalized, targeted therapy is now the standard of care. BCRF scientists have contributed significantly to the development of precision medicine and individualized therapies, resulting in better, more effective treatments and fewer side effects. Today there are more than 3.5 million breast cancer survivors in the United States and deaths from breast cancer have declined by nearly 40% over the last 25 years. But with 40,000 lives lost to the disease each year, there is still critical work to be done. BCRF is moving closer than ever before to achieving Evelyn’s dream—ending breast cancer—and celebrating the generation of men and women who will never have to know the disease that has changed, and taken, so many lives. u For more about the Breast Cancer Research Foundation and its Annual Symposium and Awards Luncheon, visit bcrf.org.

T H I S PA G E : CO U RTE S Y O F M E M O R I A L S LO A N K E T T E R I N G C A N C E R C E N T E R . O P P O S I T E PA G E : J U L I E S K A R R AT T; RO B R I C H ( B E N N E T A N D J O H N )

Breast cancer is not one but many diseases. It was BCRF researchers who found that breast cancer is, in fact, several diseases, each of which develops, progresses, and responds to therapies differently.

This page, clockwise from top left: BCRF Investigators and 2015 Symposium Panelists Drs. Larry Norton, Joan Brugge, Suzanne Fuqua, Vered Stearns, and Cliff Hudis; Tony Bennet and Elton John lend their voices and support; BCRF Co-chairs William P. Lauder and Kinga Lampert; BCRF President Myra Biblowit with BCRF Founder Evelyn H. Lauder. Opposite page: BCRF Founders Dr. Larry Norton and Evelyn Lauder.

QUEST

Fresh Finds BY DA N I E L C A P P E L LO A N D ELIZABETH MEIGHER

OCTOBER USHERS in our favorite season of all—fall. With sweater weather at its peak, we love getting dressed up in just the right layers. Whether you’re piling on a T-shirt for a cause, a fringe cardigan for in-between, or a new coat for autumn temps, we’ve got you covered. Of course, don’t forget accessories to take along the way.

Graced with a bamboo handle, Sam Edelman’s Dinah half-moon handbag features a magnetic snap under flap closure with a card slot on the back panel. $118 at samedelman.com.

Bougainvillea wrap-around necklace in 18-kt. white gold, gray diamonds, green diamonds, and pink sapphires. $37,500. Lusso by Fabio Angri: 908.400.0969 or lussobyfabioangri.com.

Tie the knot this season with Stuart Weitzman’s Step into fall in Dennis Basso’s metallic gray broadtail coat ($48,000), tweed sequin dress ($5,800), and gray/blue fox boa ($2,900). Dennis Basso: 825 Madison Ave., 212.794.4500. 70 QUEST

Knotted 45 in cabernet suede, adorned with an oversized metal knot for modern attitude and set on a cool kitten heel. $498 at stuartweitzman.com.

Keep autumnal rays at bay with a nod to the season’s colors in these Brioni shades. $415 at brioni.com.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5960/01G Men’s Annual Calendar Flyback Chronograph in white gold with blue From ready-to-wear to bespoke, Hermès truly makes the man

dial varnished dial and brown calf leather strap. $65,770. Available at Tourneau: 12 East 57th St.

this season. Discover more at Hermès New York Madison Men’s: 690 Madison Ave., 212.308.3585.

Take the high road in style with the Highlander loafer in brown suede from Belgian Shoes. $475. Belgian Shoes: 110 E. 55th St., 212.755.7372.

Created in 1862, Bacardi Ocho remained the sole preserve of the Bacardi family for seven generations. Used only for the most special From its capacitive steering wheel controls, two 10-inch

occasions, this golden sipping

touchscreens, and Head-Up Display, the Range Rover Velar is the

rum is one of the oldest pri-

“avant-garde” Range Rover, and features the latest in design,

vate rum blends in the world.

innovation, and technology. From $49,600 at landroverusa.com.

$30 at reservebar.com. OCTOBER 2018 71

Dress in just the right layers with J.McLaughlin: Jordan Fringe Cardigan ($448), Sancerre

British jewelry designer Monica Vinader’s Art Deco–inspired 18-kt. rose-gold vermeil on sterling silver Baja Facet Bracelet features a striking geometric Blue Quartz gemstone. $395.

Sweater ($298), Ida

Monica Vinader: 151 Spring St. or monicavinader.com/us.

Belt ($98), Lexi Jean ($165), Mercer Flat ($248), and Annie Tote ($368), at jmclaughlin.com.

Step up your art game with the addition of Michael Allen Lowe’s Hylas in the Depths, an oil on canvas (68 x 47-3/4") available at Findlay Galleries. Price upon request. Findlay Galleries: 165 Worth Ave., Palm Beach, 561.655.2090.

We’re falling hard for Practical and stylish for

Vhernier’s Doppio Senso

everyday endeavors, the

earrings in 18-kt. rose

W1 backpack from James

gold and ebony. $5,600.

Purdey & Sons comes in

Vhernier: 783 Madison

full English oak bark tanned leather with iconic Purdey Starburst engraving. $2,095 at purdey.com.

72 QUEST

Ave., 646.343.9551.

Fresh Finds The Pierre Frey wallpaper and fabric are the reverse of each other in this Palm Beach library with a daybed, as imagined by trusted interior designer Leta Austin Foster. For your own home transformation, contact Leta Austin Foster: 64 Via Mizner, Palm Beach, 561.655.7367.

Sofía Sanchez de Betak expands her Chufy clothing line with the latest safari-inspired collection, which includes this easy, breezy Kinyei Robe. $1,117 at chufy.com.

Handcrafted from recycled sails on the working waterfront in Portland, Maine, the Metallic Anchor Tote from Sea Bags features punch-cut metallic leather appliqué with zigzag stitch and rope handles. $165 at seabags.com.

One-hundred percent of the proceeds from the sale of Polo Ralph Lauren’s Live Love Graphic T-Shirt are donated to the Pink Pony Fund of The Polo Ralph Lauren

C A LE B & G L A DY S ( C H U F Y )

Foundation. $68 at ralphlauren.com.

Lalique’s iconic Cabochon Ring is a true delight—and it now comes in a series of clear crystal with the prettiest of patinas, like this one in green. $160 at lalique.com.

20 YEARS AFTER ITS BIRTH, THE CALLA—A SIGNATURE DESIGN FROM THE HOUSE OF VHERIER—CONTINUES TO DELIGHT AND AMAZE 74 Q U E S T

CO U RTE S Y O F V H E R N I E R

A MILESTONE FOR VHERNIER’S CALLA

J E W E L RY

This page: Vhernier’s Calla necklace in blue aluminum and diamonds and a sketch for the iconic design. Opposite page: The Vhernier boutique at 783 Madison Avenue in New York City.

THIS YEAR, the Calla—a symbol of the house of Vhernier— is celebrating 20 years as an icon in the jewelry world. The single-element design, often modeled in a sequence, has become one of Vhernier’s most notable shapes. Inspired by the shape of the calla lily, the Calla has been crafted in different materials over the years, yet with each variation it continues to maintain its charm and strength. After an extended period of research, a simple, archetypal shape was retained—a pure abstraction true to the DNA of the brand, which is rooted in sculpture and contemporary art.

“Volume, femininity, and lightness are the characteristics of all Vhernier jewels and are clearly evident in the Calla design,” says Carlo Traglio, President of Vhernier. “Femininity always translates into soft and smooth shapes that, despite the magnitude of the surfaces, are nevertheless minimalistic and understated.” The original drawing of the Calla dates back to 1998. The very first version of the necklace was conceived with a warm rose gold, which is frequently used by the brand for its ability to blend well with all skin tones. OCTOBER 2018 75

This page, above: The Vhernier boutique at 783 Madison Avenue in New York City. Opposite page: Three iconic pieces from Vhernier’s Calla collection, including the Calla pendant in ebony and diamonds (left), the Calla necklace in 18-kt. rose gold (above right), and the Calla necklace in 18-kt. rose gold and kogolong.

To avoid breaking the sequence of links, the necklace was designed with a seamless integrated clasp that works just like a screw and is located inside one of the links. The use of invisible closures is a trait of Vhernier; the brand’s craftsmen invented a seemingly simple yet complex mechanism to achieve this result. Calla also owes its extraordinary success to its choice of materials—such as ebony, a precious wood, shaped by the same excellent artisans who cut and work on precious stones. Combined with Vhernier’s elegant rose gold, the intense color of the ebony produces a fascinating visual shock. For this reason, the Calla has always represented a true turning point in the jewelry world: its very unusual materials showcase their natural beauty alongside high-caliber craftsmanship. “The gold and ebony version is undoubtedly the most beloved one, and for us it represents perfection,” affirms Traglio. “It’s light, seductive, and contemporary. And above all, it’s beautiful to touch.” Over the years the Calla collection has been reproduced in a number of materials and forms. The necklace, the 76 QUEST

most iconic, was followed by the more casual yet equally sophisticated pendant, which is made up of three or five Calla links dangling from a rubber cord. It has been crafted using an array of materials, including ebony, warm rose gold, brilliant diamonds, kogolong (a volcanic white stone from Afghanistan), and, more recently, titanium. In celebration of the 20th-year milestone, Vhernier has launched two new lines within the Calla collection. The first, the mesmerizing Eyeliner Pavé, features a brand new diamond setting with stones of different sizes embedded into a rhodium-colored base to create a dramatic look. The brand has also debuted an innovative line of aluminum Calla necklaces and pendants. Aluminum, although extremely difficult to treat during the fusion and stone-setting phases, offers an extraordinary lightness and allows for exceptional range of colors, including black, blue, violet, orange, green, and red. Intense and concentrated hues give life to jewels that are feminine and almost provocative, attracting the eye with their absolute originality. And so the Calla continues to bloom. u

J E W E L RY

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Volume, femininity, and lightness are the characteristics of all Vhernier jewels and are clearly evident

CO U RTE S Y O F V H E R N I E R

in the Calla design.â&#x20AC;?

OCTOBER 2018 77

LEGACY

VERY FEW AUTOMOBILE companies can boast the history and aura that the Jaguar brand evokes. Known for its graceful design, luxurious yet spacious interiors, and, of course, its unquestioned performance, one of Jaguar’s early tag lines said it all: “Grace, Space, and Pace!” Jaguar the manufacturer was founded in 1922 by William Lyons and William Walmsley as the Swallow Sidecar Company of Blackpool, England. Lyons had to wait until he turned 21 so he could sign a note to obtain the money needed, which he borrowed from his parents. By 1931 the Swallow Sidecar Company had developed its own line of high-performance cars, which they branded “SS.” The first complete vehicle produced by SS Cars was the Art Deco SS 1 Coupe. The first use of the name Jaguar came in 1935 for the 78 QUEST

1936 model year, and the products of the factory in the English Midlands city of Coventry became known as “SS Jaguars” until after World War II, when the name was changed simply to Jaguar. The most famous pre-war Jaguar was the SS 100 two-seat sports car, but the company had also developed a reputation for rakish, high-performance sedans as well. After 1945, Jaguar built updated versions of pre-war models until 1948, when the XK120 two-seater sports car was introduced. Revolutionary in design, the XK120 was also the first Jaguar to use the soon-tobe-legendary XK twin-cam engine. The XK engine, in various forms, was to remain Jaguar’s standard power agent until 1987. Jaguar grew in strength and popularity with every new model it introduced, from the Mark VII sedan to the ongoing range of XK sports cars.

CO U RTE S Y J L R N A A R C H I V E S

JAGUAR: A LEGEND OF GRACE AND PACE

This spread, clockwise from top left: The winning Jaguar D-Type at the Le Mans 24-hour race in 1957; Jaguar co-founder Sir William Lyons in front of his home, Wappenbury Hall, with a Jaguar Series II E-Type; a family album from the 1970s, including the Jaguar XJ sedan in front of, from front to back, the Jaguar XK140 DHC, SS Jaguar 100, Jaguar D-Type, and Jaguar Mark IV Drophead Coupe.

A truly stunning debut was revealed at the Geneva Auto Show in 1961, when the Jaguar E-Type was introduced to the world. Perhaps no other car in history has captured the imagination of the public in the way that the E-Type did. Upon its release, even Enzo Ferrari commented that it was “the most beautiful car ever made.” It went out of production in 1974 but remains the model that people instantly associate with Jaguar. In 2004, Sports Car International placed the E-Type at number one on its list of “Top Sports Cars of the 1960s.” In March 2008, it was ranked first in the Daily Telegraph’s online list of the word’s “100 Most Beautiful Cars” of all time. This summer, the newly wed Duke and Duchess of Sussex drove off from Windsor Castle to their reception in a Jaguar E-Type Concept Zero, the brand-new, all-electric version that combines iconic ’60s chic with zero-emission powertrain technology. It was a most fitting choice for both the royal couple and Jaguar, each signaling a step forward in a 21st-century world. 80 QUEST

Apart from the E-Type and its most classic models, Jaguar has produced a seemingly unending series of world-class high-end sedans and luxury GT vehicles. From the XJS to the XJ6 and XJ12, Jaguar sedans have set the pace to this day. Jaguar has won time and again at Le Mans and at Daytona, and in 2013 the company returned to its spiritual roots with the introduction of the Jaguar F-TYPE, hailed by critics and owners alike as a true successor to the Jaguar sports cars of old. In 2015, the company debuted its first crossover SUV with the Jaguar F-PACE, marking the first SUV in the brand’s history, to glowing reviews and numerous awards, including the 2017 World Car of the Year. This year marked another milestone for the luxury brand, with the introduction of the all-electric Jaguar I-PACE. Today, that original motto of grace, space, and pace remains truer than ever at the house of Jaguar, where a robust lineup of diverse luxury vehicles continues to inspire, thrill, and excite. u

CO U RTE S Y J L R N A A R C H I V E S

LEGACY

At left: The SS Jaguar 100, the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first true sports car. Above right: A 17-year-old William Lyons on his favorite Harley-Davidson motorcycle in Blackpool, England, 1918. Below: A Jaguar XJR-10, part of a series of race cars used by TWR-Jaguar racing teams over the years. TWR-Jaguar cars won the World Sportscar Championship Group C outright in 1987, 1988, and 1991, and won both the Le Mans and Daytona 24-hour races in 1988 and 1990.

ART

TWICE A YEAR, philanthropists, art enthusiasts, and leaders from the worlds of design and fashion clear their calendars to attend The Opening Night of TEFAF New York, benefiting The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering. In three short years, Opening Night has become a luminary in the city’s society scene, drawing nearly 1,500 guests to get a first glimpse of museum-worthy treasures: grand masters and antiquities in the fall, and contemporaries in the spring. It has become a star-studded affair, with the likes of Michael Bloomberg, Martha Stewart, Anderson Cooper, Peter Marino and Ronald, Jo Carole, Aerin and Jane Lauder, among others, traipsing the packed aisles of the Park Avenue Armory. Buzz is quickly building for Opening Night of TEFAF New York Fall on Friday, October 26. While the pairing between The Society of MSK and The European Fine Art Fair (TEFAF), celebrated as the world’s most buoyant art market, is still young, the union was symbiotic from the very start. When TEFAF CEO Patrick van Maris first explored different U.S. locales to host Europe’s famed art fair, 00 8 2 QUEST

all signs pointed to New York. What city better than capital of the country’s art market, and what metropolis more capable of beautifully translating the unique look and quality of Maastricht than Manhattan? The pinnacle of it all: The Society of MSK. “TEFAF has supported cancer research at the Maastricht University Medical Centre since 2006, so it was very important that we continue our philanthropic efforts when we expanded to New York,” van Maris says. “The Society of MSK is a New York institution and the city’s preeminent philanthropic organization. It was a natural choice as our philanthropy partner to help raise funds for MSK patient care, cancer research, and public education for the prevention, detection, and treatment of cancer.” Van Maris says The Society of MSK has also played an integral role in establishing the Fair’s presence in the United States, helping reach collectors, enthusiasts, and prominent New York figures. “I’ve been most impressed with the dedication, hard work and generosity by the members of The Society, along with the knowledge and art expertise of the members

K I R S T E N C H I L S T RO M

AN ARTFUL ALLIANCE

This spread: The European Fine Art Fair (TEFAF) will celebrate its third-annual Opening Night with The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering at the Park Avenue Armory this month. Credited as the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most bouyant art market, TEFAF offers a rich assortment of rare, antique pieces from across the globe, such as the Double Gourd Vases (below right), which hail from Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kangxi period, circa 1710.

A NEW YORK INSTITUTION “EVER SINCE THE first antique show was held in the fall in New York, Sloan Kettering has been the beneficiary,” explains president of The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering Jamee Gregory. “People feel MSK is at the heart of New York, and that all of our supporters are caring, active, involved New Yorkers.” Indeed, proceeds from The Opening Night benefit The Society’s patient care, research, and education programs at MSK. This fall marks the third-annual opening at the Park Avenue Armory in partnership with The European Fine Art Foundation (TEFAF), which boasts an equally impressive heritage organizing its influential art fair for 31 years. The Society’s deep roots and TEFAF’s international circuit of dealers have both contributed to the Opening Night’s success, but some credit is due to the bash’s good timing. Held at the end of October, the party is the kickoff to gala season in New York, welcoming home patrons who have been summering elsewhere before they depart for winters down south. Gregory adds that the time frame is a helpful aspect as well—stretching from 5 to 8 p.m. allows people to make it for a quick after-work cocktail or an evening affair. “It’s very inclusive, and we’d love to have any supporter of the charity,” Gregory says. “They’ll be seeing some of the most amazing pieces from all over the world, and they’ll be supporting great research and patient care.” 84 QUEST

K I R S TE N C H I L S T RO M ( FA I R ) ; CO U RTE S Y O F T H E S O C I E T Y O F M S K ( G U E S TS )

ART

and guests who attend Opening Night,” he says. As for the signature New York sophistication that Opening Night brings to the Fair? For that TEFAF credits Jamee Gregory, president of The Society, who has been a passionate steward of this alliance, and her dynamic Opening Night co-chairs that bring it all to life. “Opening Night of TEFAF New York Fall really marks the start of the social season in Manhattan,” Gregory says. “Everyone is back from their summer travels and eager to see their friends, as well as the extraordinary antiques, art, and jewelry assembled from the world’s most illustrious dealers. It’s such fun, milling in the aisles with pals, finding international treasures, and feasting on the cocktails and buffet!” Gregory admits she can’t take credit for all of the evening’s glitter; she says this year’s generous fashion sponsors, Natura Bissé and Etro, are sure to draw chic attendees. “We’ve always had a wonderful relationship with the fashion houses because our ladies are extremely fashionable,” Gregory notes, adding, “They love beautiful clothes as much as they love beautiful art.”

Fiona Druckenmiller, who has chaired Opening Night three times and twice graciously underwritten the soirée alongside her husband, Stanley, says nothing in the United States comes close to TEFAF. “Every piece is carefully vetted by jury of experts to ensure authenticity. As a buyer, you can have that faith and peace of mind that everything is legitimate, with no adaptations or modifications. That is truly unique to TEFAF.” Druckenmiller’s FD Gallery is always among the must-see dealers at TEFAF New York Spring, which specializes in the contemporary. As much as she loves exhibiting, she relishes the guest experience. “Many dealers hold back some of their best pieces to unveil for the first time ever at Opening Night. The excitement of seeing a piece that hasn’t been at their storefront or office is beyond magical. It’s one of my most favorite nights of the year.” u To purchase tickets for Opening Night of TEFAF New York Fall, visit www.society.mskcc.org/tefaf.

This spread: Scenes from the Fall 2017 and Spring 2018 Opening Night parties include notable guests like Jane Lauder, president of The Society Jamee Gregory, Fiona Druckenmiller, Jessica Sailer Van Lith, and Caryn Zucker (opposite page, top left), Martha Stewart and Kevin Sharkey (opposite page, top right), and Jamie

P H OTO C R E D I T G O E S H E R E

Drake (this photo).

MONTH 2008 00

T H E AT E R

THE DRAMA LEAGUE of New York, since 1916, has been at the forefront of the American theater community. It is one of the nation’s oldest continuously operating nonprofit arts advocacy and education organizations, and today, there is still nothing like it. “The Drama League is the preeminent organization that supports directors—the visionary center of the creative process,” explains Gabriel Stelian-Shanks, executive artistic director. “We provide training, mentorship, and development for the artist who is often invisible.” The early years were vital in establishing The Drama League as a professional force within the theater community, and the organization continued to evolve in the post-war decades of the 1950s through ’70s, and in the 1980s, returned to the founders’ inspiration with a new program: The Drama League Directors Project. Since its inception, more than 150 OffBroadway and regional theaters have joined to provide a training ground for the selected directing fellows and residents. The Directors Project now boasts an expanded roster of 10 major programmatic year-round fellowship and residency initiatives, including specialized programs in artistic leadership, musical theater, classical works, and an active collaboration development initiative. “A lot of our alumni go on to success,” notes StelianShanks. “About a third of the shows on Broadway are directed by our alums.” The Drama League membership has always meant advocacy for the art of theater, and it continues to adapt with the ever-changing world of arts by pushing into any category that requires actors and a performance. “Now’ we’re branching out because the act of direction is changing,” Stelian-Shanks confirms. “We’re looking at direction in artificial intelligence and app design.” To bolster the program’s success, The Drama League holds an annual benefit, 86 QUEST

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N ; A N N I E WAT T

THE DRAMA LEAGUE’S NEXT HUNDRED YEARS

This page, above to below: George Hornig, Joan Hornig, and Howard Kagan at last yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gala; Rebecca Night and Harry Hadden-Paton at a past Drama League Awards; Steve Martin and Ed Helms at the gala. Opposite page: Stan Ponte, president of The Drama League board of directors.

This spread, clockwise from top left: The 2018 Director’s Project fellows include Jennifer Chang, Kyle Haden, Jake Beckhard, Margaret Lee, Seonjae Kim, Kemar Jewel, Ivey Lowe, Jason Jang, Christopher Nunez, Tara Elliott, and Dennis Li; actress Judith Light at the gala; Elizabeth Stribling and Elizabeth Stribling-Kivlan; Laurie Metcalf at Drama

honoring a different theater luminary each year. This fall, film, television, and theater icon Nathan Lane is the Honoree for the organization’s 35th Annual Benefit Gala: A Musical Celebration of Broadway. The black-tie evening honoring Mr. Lane—three-time Tony Award, Drama Desk, Outer Critics, OBIE, Emmy, and Drama League Distinguished Performance Award winner— will take place on Monday, November 5, 2018 beginning at 6:30 p.m. in New York City at The Plaza. Open to both theater professionals and theatergoers, membership offers price-subsidized reservations to over 100 performances on Broadway and Off-Broadway each season. The Drama League provides the insight, access, and flexibility required to make the most of all that New York

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N ; A N N I E WAT T

League Awards; Idina Menzel holds her DL Award.

T H E AT E R

theater has to offer. Plus, members get voting privileges for the prestigious Drama League Awards, which recognizes distinguished productions on both Broadway and OffBroadway each year. According to Stan Ponte, President of the Board of Directors, “The Drama League today has embraced its past while continuing to grow and expand the impact of its programs and audience engagement.” He adds, “I speak with so many theater lovers who have either been members in the past or are members today, and I encourage anyone who has a passion for live theater to join our family, and I look forward to seeing you at the theater!” u If you wish to learn more about The Drama League, please call 212.244.9494 or visit DramaLeague.org.

T R AV E L

C A S A D E C A M P O R E S O RT & V I LL A S

CASA DE CAMPO: A GUY’S GETAWAY B Y B R O O K E K E L LY

A TRIP WITH THE GUYS is something that never goes out of style, and Casa de Campo Resort & Villas is the perfect playground for it. The top-rated resort in the exclusive La Romana region of the Dominican Republic offers all that any man could desire in a getaway: a 7,000-acre paradise with deep-sea sport fishing, a shooting range, and world-class golfing, all of which can be enjoyed while taking in breathtaking views of the Caribbean Sea. And now, Casa de Campo is utilizing these amazing amenities to design an escape specifically for men—an unforgettable experience that will check all the boxes on any man’s bucket list. Starting with a helicopter transfer from the airport, the aptly named Ultimate Guys Getaway includes a four-night stay in a sprawling villa complete with a full staff. In addition to maids and a chauffeur, the staff features a chef who will cook nightly five-course meals paired with premium wine and liquor. The dinner experience doesn’t end there—an expert cigar roller from a local shop will also be present to prepare you for the perfect post-meal smoke, or to invite you to his factory for a tour complete with take-home goods. Beyond the villa, the resort will coordinate a private sport-fishing charter and a helicopter ride to Rancho Peligro for a live shooting experience with ducks and pheasants, in addition to the countless activities available on site. Whether shooting on the range, playing tennis, or riding horses through the equesCasa de Campo’s Ultimate Guys Getaway offers a four-night stay in a sprawling villa with a full staff including maids, a chef to serve fivecourse dinners, and a cigar master to deliver the perfect smoke. OCTOBER 2018 91

This page: Casa de Campoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ultimate Guys Getaway package includes a helicopter ride to Rancho Peligro complete with full live shooting experience, or shooting on site at the range; Minitas Beach (inset). Opposite page: The package comes with a private fishing charter, and the catch of the day will be cooked by the in-villa chef (above); men can take advantage of lessons with the golf pro at the new state-of-the-art Golf Learning Center prior to teeing off at the renowned Teeth of the Dog course (below).

C A S A D E C A M P O R E S O RT & V I LL A S

T R AV E L

trian trails, there will be no shortage of sporting pros on call to deliever extra attention and expert advice. If golf is selected as the sport of the day, men will be able to choose from the resort’s three courses—Dye Fore, Links, and, of course, Teeth of the Dog, which is consistently ranked the number one course in the Caribbean with global recognition. The group will also have the option to take individual lessons with a golf pro at the new Golf Learning Center before tee time. After a long day of activities, in-villa massages and physical therapy sessions are at your disposal from the Pinecrest Physical Therapy team, prior to enjoying a cocktail hour with passed hors d’oeuvres. For four people and four nights, this amazing experience starts at $60,000 with the option to arrive via private jet from Miami at an additional cost. With the upcoming holiday season, keep this envy-worthy trip in mind for the special man in your life. Casa de Campo’s amenities alone have attracted Derek Jeter and Michael Jordan, and the precise planning and special offerings of this package make a group trip to Casa de Campo even more unforgettable. u For reservations, call 800.877.3643, email vacationplanner@ccampo.com.do, or visit casadecampo.com.do. OCTOBER 2018 93

CALENDAR

OCTOBER

On October 26, The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering (MSK) will host the Annual Opening Night of TEFAF New York Fall at Park Avenue Armory at 5 p.m. for an exclusive preview of the fair’s sensational pieces. For more information, visit society.mskcc.org/tefaf.

The Hospital for Special Surgery (HSS) will host its Second Annual Golf HSS Benefit at Baltusrol Golf Club in New Jersey to support sports medicine research at the hospital. Cocktails and dinner will follow the round of golf. For more information, visit hss.edu.

PENCIL will hold its annual gala at Gotham Hall at 6:30 p.m. The organization brings together business professionals, educators, and students—ultimately connecting students with success. For more information, visit pencil.org.

EMPOWERING YOUTH

GOLF FOR A CAUSE

MUSICAL CELEBRATION

Lang Lang & Friends will hold a gala at 6:30 p.m. to celebrate its 10th anniversary. Proceeds from the evening will expand the organization’s Keys of Inspiration (KOI) program, which delivers a structured music curriculum to over 6,000 children. For more information, visit langlangfoundation.org.

HELPING WOMEN

The New York Women’s Foundation will host its Radical Generosity Gala at The Plaza at 6:30 p.m. For over 30 years, the charity has funded community-based organizations that provide services to low-income women and girls. For more information, visit nywf.org. 94 QUEST

PROFESSIONAL MINDS

Casita Maria will host its annual gala at The Plaza at 7:30 p.m. The evening will honor outstanding individuals for their contributions to the worlds of art, philanthropy, business, and more. For more information, visit casitamaria.org.

DANCING SHOES

American Ballet Theatre will hold its 2018 Fall Gala at the David H. Koch Theater. This year’s event will celebrate the ABT Women’s Movement. For more information, visit abt.org. A LEGAL AFFAIR

Pro Bono Partnership will celebrate the organization’s 21st anniversary of providing free legal services to nonprofits in the tri-state area with

On October 18, the Frick Collection will host its Annual Autumn Dinner at the museum to honor Henry P. Johnson. For more information, visit frick.org.

CALENDAR

The Plaza at 7 p.m. For more information, visit frenchheritagesociety.org.

November 1 LEGAL AFFAIR

NAACP Legal Defense and Educational Fund, Inc. will hold its Annual National Equal Justice Awards Dinner at 6:30 p.m. For more information, visit naacpldf.org. LIVING LANDMARKS

The New York Landmarks Conservancy will host its annual celebration at The Plaza at 7 p.m. For more information, visit nylandmarks.org. On October 17, American Ballet Theatre will hold its 2018 Fall Gala at the David H. Koch Theater. This year’s event will celebrate the ABT Women’s Movement. For more information, visit abt.org. a gala dinner. For more information, call 212.254.6677.

Cipriani 42nd Street at 11 a.m. For more information, visit iwmf.org.

CHAMPIONS FOR CHANGE

AUTUMN AT THE FRICK

The Frick Collection will host its Annual Autumn Dinner at the museum to honor Henry P. Johnson. For more information, visit frick.org.

FIND THE CURE

The American Cancer Society will hold its Mothers of the Year Luncheon to recognize the outstanding accomplishments of mothers and their contributions to cancer control. For more information, visit acsmothersoftheyear.org.

The Skin Cancer Foundation will host its Champions for Change Gala at The Plaza at 6:30 p.m. For more information, visit skincancer.org.

RETURN OF TEFAF

The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering will host the Annual Opening Night of TEFAF New York Fall at Park Avenue Armory at 5 p.m. for an exclusive preview of the

fair’s sensational pieces. For more information and to purchase tickets, call 212.639.7972. or visit society.mskcc.org/tefaf.

FOR THE CHILDREN

The Children’s Museum of Manhattan will hold its annual fundraising event at 6:30 p.m. For more information, visit cmom.org.

HALLOWEEN SPIRIT

The French Heritage Society will host its Black and Orange Ball at

HOPE ON THE HORIZON

The Alzheimer’s Drug Discovery Foundation will hold its Annual Fall Symposium & Luncheon at The Pierre at 10:30 a.m. For more information, visit alzdiscovery.org.

LIBRARY LIONS

The New York Public Library will honor several distinguished individuals for outstanding achievements in their respective fields of arts, culture, letters, and scholarship by naming them Library Lions during a ceremony at 7 p.m. For more information, visit nypl.org.

ENRICHING LANDSCAPE

The Horticultural Society of New York will host its 25th Annual Fall Luncheon honoring Melissa Biggs Bradley at the Metropolitan Club at 11:30 a.m. For more information, visit thehort.org. FIGHTING ALZHEIMER’S

The Alzheimer’s Association will present its 35th Annual Rita Hayworth Gala at Cipriani 42nd Street at 6:30 p.m. For more information, visit alz.org.

WOMEN IN MEDIA

The International Women’s Media Foundation will hold its Courage in Journalism Awards Luncheon at

On November 5, the New York Public Library will honor several distinguished individuals for outstanding achievements by naming them Library Lions during a ceremony at 7 p.m. For more information, visit nypl.org. OCTOBER 2018 95

SECRETS TO SAVVY SHOPPING As style bloggers, we provide insider tips that will have you making smart shopping decisions while keeping up with current trends in the rapidly evolving world of fashion.

FEW INDUSTRIES ARE as nimble and ever-changing as the global fashion industry. Today, consumers not only want to see innovation in their products, but also in the shopping experience itself. The result has been a historic shift from a retail system centered around physical stores to one characterized by a whole new landscape of online platforms, social media, and pop-up shops. The seemingly endless array of new shopping options can be overwhelming, but we are here to guide you and keep you informed on how to get the most bang for your buck. Brick and mortar has given way to online retailers like Shopbop and Revolve Clothing that offer a curated mix of well-priced apparel, footwear, and jewelry from a broad collection of coveted designers all on one platform—a seamless experience making apparel easy to order, and easy to return. For luxury purchases, there are platforms such as Net-a-Porter and Moda Operandi that feature high-end designers, as well as sites like the RealReal that feature used products from those same designers but at discounted prices. Of course, there will still always be a need for brick-and-mortar stops here and there. When looking for eveningwear for the next big gala, for instance, go into the shop—you’ll want to see the options in person to assure your selection is tailored to fit. Or, if you’re looking for something unique and fun, venture into the boutique 00 9 6 QQUUEESSTT

shops that foster individuality, like the Vintage Twin in the West Village. There, you’ll be able to find an authentic ensemble or accessory that you can be sure no one else owns—these unique pieces often catch the most eyes and attract the most where’d you get thats. And while you may already be frequenting the above-named sites and shops, can you be sure that you’re making the best shopping decisions? Gone are the days women would roam the streets in Balenciaga coats for everyday tasks (think vintage Parisian street style, circa 1950). Sure, if you decide to splurge on that classic Chanel purse or Cartier Love Bracelet, you can be confident these pieces will stand the test of time. But today’s fashion is all about mixing these high-end picks with staple pieces that will have you looking effortlessly chic. Here’s our advice: spend on the timeless classics and save on the trendy personality-packed items. Then, resell, or even store; fashion always comes around again—what’s old will eventually be what’s new. Throughout these pages, we’ve included some of our favorite looks from New York Fashion week that show how to utilize this art of mixing. Still don’t know if you can handle it? This increasingly blogger- and influencer-driven world we live in can help. Visit our Instagram page, @yin2myyang, to view more already-mixed looks with the option on many to “swipe up and shop.” u

PHU CO OTO RTECSRYEO D FI TYGUO MEISMHATS E R EU O ; C A R LY T U M E N ; T H E V I N TA G E T W I N ; N E T- A - P O RTE R

BY SOPHIE AND CHARLOTTE BICKLEY

This page: Fashion bloggers and sisters Sophie and Charlotte Bickley in the West Village. Opposite page, from above: The Vintage Twin offers items that foster individuality; @Yin2myYang bloggers wearing custom jackets by Jaydee Studios; Net-a-Porter is a popular luxury online platform that features items from high-end designers.

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SOPHIE’S LOOK: 1. GANNI Barra Crêpe Top in black; $145 at ganni.com. 2. TIFFANY & CO. Tiffany T square bracelet in 18-kt. gold; $5,500 at tiffany.com. 3. GANNI Barra Crêpe Maxi Skirt; $205 at ganni.com. 4. STAUD Bissett Bag in white patent leather; $375 at staud.clothing. CHARLOTTE’S LOOK: 5. LOUIS VUITTON Wonderful Flat Ranger boots (similar style); $1,350 at select Louis Vuitton boutiques. 6. SELF-PORTRAIT V-Neck Mini Dress Organic Print Red; $380 at self-portrait-studio.com. 7. LOUIS VUITTON Trunk Clutch; $3,300 at select Louis Vuitton boutiques. 8. KGR COLLECTION Pavé diamond surf board pendant; $500 at kgrcollection.com. 9. KGR COLLECTION Three pavé diamond ball beads surrounded by red coral; $750 at kgrcollection. com. 10. KGR COLLECTION Five pavé diamond triangle charms with sapphire colored crystal; $1,250 at kgrcollection.com. 98 QUEST

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SOPHIE’S LOOK: 1. GEMMED Jet-set straight to the French Riviera with the St. Tropez Acrylic Hoop earrings; $32 at gemmed.co. 2. MILLY Tech Organza Button Down Shirt was crafted in French tech organza; $325 at milly.com. 3. MILLY Tech Organza Pleated Skirt; $675 at milly.com. 4. MING RAY Hedy bag in gold acrylic; similar styles available at mingray.com. CHARLOTTE’S LOOK: 5. STELLA MCCARTNEY The new Eclypse Rainbox Sneakers feature stone and rock textured soles in rich tones, incorporating rubber made from renewable resources; $685 at stellamccartney.com. 6. MILLY Sequins Modern Mini Skirt; $195 at milly.com. 7. MING RAY Dione Box bag in platinum emerald python; similar styles available at mingray.com. 8. MILLY The Sequins Turtleneck is a chic, long-sleeved fitted sequin top that perfectly complements the Sequins Modern Mini Skirt; $250 at milly.com. OCTOBER 2018 99

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3 SOPHIEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S LOOK: 1. DIANE VON FURSTENBERG The Longsleeve Wrap Jumpsuit in Aurora Black Candy Red is a one-piece designed with a contrast-waist tie and wide-leg cut that puts a twist on the modern jumpsuit; $598 at dvf.com. 2. GEMMED These Thread the Needle Earrings are abstract pieces that will give any outfit and edgy vibe; $18 at gemmed.co. CHARLOTTEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S LOOK: 3. SUPERGA The 2790 Platform Sneakers in white pack fashionable appeal in a chunky, rubber platform sole, and can be adorable with fringe denim shorts and a simple tee or at nightime while wearing a mini dress; $80 at revolve.com. 4. HANEY The Neon Holly Dress in coral is sure to make a statement with its sexy cowl neckline and bold color; $890 at shophaney.com. 5. BAUBLE BAR The Gemma Hoop Earrings lend effortless elegance to everything already in your wardrobe; $38 at baublebar.com. 100 QUEST

CO U RTE S Y O F R E S P E C T I V E D E S I G N E R S

COACH, one of our personal favs, offers a unique mix of runway apparel and affordable accessories. Here we are dressed head to toe in Coach for the designer’s recent runway show—in true Coach spirit. SOPHIE’S LOOK: 1. COACH The C101 Low-Top Sneakers were inspired by classic tennis trainers, and this plush leather design is updated with a touch of color; $195 at coach.com. 2. COACH This floaty, romantic 1941 Floral Bud Print Slip Dress from Coach’s ready-to-wear collection exudes nostalgic rock ‘n’ roll swagger and was designed in a floral bud print—a feminine motif inspired by the 1930s; $795 at coach.com. 3.COACH C101 purse; $195 at coach.com. CHARLOTTE’S LOOK: 4. COACH 1941 Spooky Cottage Print Military Dress. 5. COACH The Coach x Selena Gomez Trail Bag is a limited-edition petite purse crafted from smooth leather with a crystal-accented bow bag charm; $295 at coach.com. OCTOBER 2018 101

This spread: An installation view of Charline von Heyl’s

CHARLINE VON HEYL/PETZEL NEW YORK

“New Work” exhibition on view at Petzel.

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DOWNTOWN INSPIRED: GALLERY GUIDE Let uptown have The Met. This fall, explore Lower Manhattan’s bustling scene of classic and contemporary exhibitions.

PRODUCED BY ANN LOYND BURTON

PETZEL / 456 West 18th Street; 212.680.9467 Friedrich Petzel Gallery represents some of the hottest international talent of today. Founded in 1994 in SoHo, the gallery has continued to expand its roster and move to larger spaces across the city, now inhabiting two locations in West Chelsea and in a renovated townhouse on 67th Street. On display through October 20 is an exhibition of new paintings by Charline von Heyl, who over the last three decades has created works that upend conventions about composition, beauty, narrative, design, and artistic subjectivity. These new paintings—the subject of von Heyl’s ninth solo show at Petzel—promise to silently seduce and disturb the viewer with their moody rhythms of color and shape.

THE WHITNEY 99 Gansevoort Street; 212.570.3600

of the cotton gin motor (above left) and Unexpected Growth by Tamiko Thiel, developed in an augmented reality app.

THIEL/ THE WHITNEY

Kevin Beasley’s Rebuilding C A R LO S V E L A - P R A D ; TA M I KO

A New York City institution for nearly a century, The Whitney is a downtown landmark boasting some of the finest 20th-century American art in the country. The new Whitney building designed by architect Renzo Piano (which opened its doors in 2015) vastly increased the museum’s exhibition space, nestled between the High Line and the Hudson River. Headlining the exhibitions for fall are Kevin Beasley’s exploration of the legacy of the American South and “Programmed: Rules, Codes, and Choreographies in Art,” which establishes connections between works of art based on instructions, spanning conceptual, video, and computational art. Beginning in November, the Whitney also introduces a retrospective on the works of Andy Warhol.

GEARY

“Local Magic” features the work of Alan Prazniak, including BreathEx, 2018 (above), on display at Geary. 104 QUEST

Founded in 2013 on the Lower East Side by Jack Geary and Dolly Bross Geary before moving to its current location in West SoHo, Geary Contemporary features emerging and mid-career artists concentrated in New York City and the Midwest. Representing works in a variety of mediums, the gallery’s exhibitions for fall include both a painter and a sculptor, on view through October 12. First is a presentation called “Local Magic,” featuring the works of Alan Prazniak, whose paintings combine landscape and fantasy to create new terrains. Also on display is William Corwin’s The “Old Gods,” an exhibtion of metal and plaster casts that explore symbology, mythology, and architecture.

G E A RY

185 Varick Street; 212.242.0185

Color Factory’s interactive installations are designed to invite curiousity, play, and a dang good Instagram photo.

CO LO R FAC TO RY

COLOR FACTORY / 251 Spring Street; support@colorfactory.co Art for the Instagram set? First debuted in San Francisco in 2017, Color Factory takes New York by storm this season with its photo-ready presentation of interactive exhibits. Located in SoHo’s Hudson Square neighborhood, the participatory instillations delight the senses in a range of hues inspired by the city itself, inviting curiousity, play, and yes, a “likeable” photo for social media. The gallery collaborates with a range of makers, from traditional artists to local food vendors (you can really eat the macarons on that colorful conveyor belt) and community partner Cooper Hewit, Smithsonian Design Museum.

This page, from above: Bernard Kirschenbaumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Monument to the Earth, Wall Column, and Two Element City.

POSTMASTERS / 54 Franklin Street; 212.727.3323

P O S TM A S TE R S

A downtown fixture since 1984, Postmasters occupuys a 6,500-square-foot space in Tribeca showcasing both young and established artists of all media, with a focus on conceptually based artworks. To kick off the fall season, Postmasters features a solo exhibition by Bernard Kirschenbaum. With works dating from 1966 to 1996, his monumental and experiential sculptures and installations feel perfectly current in our digitized culture. Kirschenbaum was highly influential in the downtown New York art community in the 1970s for his unique perspective in the movement of geometric abstract object making. Originally trained as a designer and architect, his large-scale insallations return downtown this season for viewers to experience a transformed space through artwork, including the famous Two Element City and Three Element City floor designs, now known as Penrose Tiles.

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N I C H O L A S H A LL / DAV I D Z W I R N E R

DAVID ZWIRNER / 519, 525 & 533 West 19th Street; 537 West 20th Street; 212.727.2070 Celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, David Zwirner began as a small space in SoHo and has since grown to house five seperate galleries including three in New York City (two in Chelsea and one Uptown on 69th Street) along with outposts in London and Hong Kong. Always showing challenging art without compromise, that spirit lives on David Zwirner’s fall exhibits. The 20th Street location will feature “Endless Enigma: Eight Centuries of Fantastic Art,” a thematic presentation exploring how artists explain their world through an alternate reality. One block away, “Wolfgang Tillmans: How likely is it that only I am right in this matter?” presents the artist’s third solo exhibition in a linear assortment of photography. u Robert Gober’s Untitled (above) is on display in “Endless Enigma: Eight Centuries of Fantastic Art” at David Zwirner’s 20th Street location (right).

B Y B R O O K E K E L LY

A guide on where and how to spend your time in the most desirable neighborhoods in New York - from Gramercy to Williamsburg.

PHD Rooftop Lounge at Dream Downtown in the Meatpacking District.

CO U RTE S Y O F TAO G RO U P ; G A N S E V O O RT M E AT PAC K I N G ; S TA N DA R D H OT E L S ; S T K D O W N TO W N N ; S O H O H O U S E ; C ATC H NYC

DOWNTOWN DELIGHTS

MEATPACKING DISTRICT When it comes to nightlife, the Meatpacking District has it all. Beyond its glamorous cobblestone streets, views of the High Line, and the new Whitney Museum of Art, the Meatpacking District is home to the city’s most fashionable hotels and posh restaurants and night clubs. The area’s most notable hotels include Dream Downtown and the Standard High Line, both featuring top-rated restaurants, bars, and clubs. There’s also Gansevoort Meatpacking, which, in addition to its modern and luxurious rooms, features a rooftop bar and lounge where patrons can enjoy refreshing cocktails while taking in outstanding views of the city and Hudson River. For the warmer months, the hotel also offers a rooftop pool for its guests. A handful of nearby go-to restaurants that embrace the area’s party vibes include Tao Downtown, high-end seafood joint Catch NYC, and modern steakhouse STK Downtown. The neighborhood also claims the renowned Soho House as its own and, luckily for some, you don’t even have to be a member to enjoy some of its perks. Clockwise from top left: The rooftop pool at the Gansevoort Meatpacking; the Top of the Standard lounge at the Standard High Line; the Paloma Escobar cocktail at STK Downtown; rooftop pool at the Soho House; Catch

P H OTO C R E D I T G O E S H E R E

NYC’s entrance; Omakase dish at Tao Downtown.

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TRIBECA Tribeca has become one of the most desirable places to live in Manhattan—not only for celebrities, but for young families and couples moving away from their uptown comfort zones. Families have been drawn to the neighborhood due to its quiet streets, reputable schools, new luxury residential high-rises like the Woolworth Towers and 111 Murray Street, and trendy exercise classes including Barry’s Bootcamp, SoulCycle, and Pure Barre. Popular hotels include the Greenwich Hotel—which is home to the award-winning Locanda Verde restaurant that serves Italian dishes by Andrew Carmellini—and the Roxy Hotel, which offers viewings of first-run independent films in its unique theater. The Roxy’s hip Belle Reve Bar is also a main attraction. For those drawn to cinema, the neighborhood hosts the annual Tribeca Film Festival, attracting millions of visitors each year. Clockwise from top right: Dessert at Italian restaurant Locanda Verde; the exterior of the Greenwich Hotel; a photo from the 2017 Tribeca Film Festival, which attracts millions each year.

Counterclockwise from top left: The Flour Shop’s iconic rainbow Explosion Cake; Arlo Roof Top’s outdoor lounge; the interior area at JIMMY at The James in The James Hotel.

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This fashion-forward area of Manhattan has evolved into one of New York’s best shopping districts, home to a number of designer boutiques like Céline and Chanel, as well as affordable chains, design showrooms, and unique pop-up shops. And, of course, where there is good shopping, there are endless options nearby to dine or simply wind down with a drink. For a romantic, sit-down meal, book a reservation at French restaurant Balthazar, or Charlie Bird for organic Italian cuisine. For those with a taste for the sweeter things, pop into Dominique Ansel bakery for one-of-a-kind pastries, or the Flour Shop to view those very colorful (and Instagramable) cakes that have been all the hype. Looking for a hotspot lounge to have a drink and hang out with friends? End your day (or start your night) at Arlo Roof Top or JIMMY at the James Hotel, which both boast amazing views of the skyline. There’s also the Soho Grand Hotel’s swanky Grand Bar & Lounge.

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LOWER EAST SIDE If you’re a foodie and have a thing for speakeasies, the Lower East Side is the place to be. Like the adjoining East Village, the Lower East Side is filled with neighborhood restaurants that have some of the best food you can find, and yet still have the gritty vibes of the area in which they serve. Some local haunts include Rizzo’s Fine Pizza, a low-key, family-owned joint that will wow you instantly with delicious pizza (and amazing customer service). The famous thin-crust pizza is a must, as well as the Loaded Knots—fluffy garlic balls topped with bacon, pesto, tomato sauce, and mozzarella. Can you think of better comfort food? Another local favorite is Nitecap, a dark speakeasy serving refreshing and unique cocktails. When making a special dinner reservation, book Beauty & Essex, where you’ll enter through an eclectic pawn shop before arriving at the secret entrance, for chic small plates. Or, try Bowery Meat Company, a modern steakhouse with a diverse menu and lively ambiance. Counterclockwise from above: The interior of Beauty & Essex, which requires entrance through a pawn

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shop; a Nitecap cocktail; Mr. Purple’s interior bar area; thin-crust pizza from Rizzo’s Fine Pizza.

Just over the Brooklyn Bridge, Williamsburg has undergone extreme gentrification over the years, largely driven by the rise of hipster culture. Endless options of buzzy coffee shops and hip cafes, coupled with the area’s vibrant nightlife scene and spectacular waterfront views of Manhattan, have attracted swarms of young professionals seeking the laid-back (and fun) New York lifestyle. Points of interest that define Williamsburg include the Western-inspired Urban Cowboy Bed and Breakfast (perfect for a staycation if you’re looking for a rare retreat away from the metropolitan commotion), or the Williamsburg Hotel and the William Vale, which both boast outstanding rooftops with incredible views. Notable dining options include Lilia, which prides itself on bringing the best of Italy to Williamsburg, or the legendary Peter Luger’s steak house. Looking for something to do over the weekend? Visit the open-air food market, the Smorgasburg, or relax at the Nitehawk Cinema, which serves in-seat bites and craft cocktails. Clockwise from top right: The kitchen area of the Treehouse room at Urban Cowboy Bed and Breakfast; the Smorgasburg is a large open-air food market; the rooftop pool at the Williamsburg Hotel.

Counterclockwise from top right: The Jane Hotel’s outdoor bar; 4 Charles Prime Rib; a treat from Big Gay Ice Cream Shop.

GREENWICH VILLAGE Greenwich Village, affectionately known as “the Village,” is home to Washington Square Park—a landmark referred to as both an entrance into the Village and the unofficial hangout of students attending New York University. With campus buildings and dorms spanning the neighborhood, the Village is rich with young souls and fun bars that serve these peppy spirits; Caffe Dante on MacDougal Street, a low-key restaurant and bar, and Chumley’s, a history-rich Irish Pub that still has features linked to the Prohibition Era, have been community staples since their founding in the early 1900s. Celebrated restaurants in the neighborhood include Babbo, which serves rich Italian dishes, and the new Tokyo Record Bar, an intimate underground restaurant that serves as an homage to the jewel boxes of vinyl in Japan. Aside from its coveted establishments, the Village will also serve as a cradle of the LGBTQ movement—having been home to the Stonewall riots in 1969. Clockwise from top left: An interior shot of Chumley’s; Italian restaurant Babbo; a cockail at Tokyo Record Bar. 112 QUEST

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A small portion of the greater Greenwich Village neighborhood, the West Village is recognized as one of the most coveted residential areas of the city due to its old-school charm (think cobblestone streets and low-rise townhouses), in addition to the historic bars and top restaurants that line the energetic streets. Perhaps the most notable restaurant of the moment is 4 Charles Prime Rib, an intimate and modern supper club adorned with wood paneling and leather upholstery. It’s a must-visit for meat lovers—if you can get a reservation, that is. There are also an endless number of Irish bars as well as more upscale lounges such as The Jane Hotel. Looking for a quick treat? Visit the area’s Big Gay Ice Cream Shop, which has perky-looking soft serves that are sure to lighten your mood while satisfying your sweet tooth. It also serves as a nod to the area’s LGBTQ spirit.

COURTESY OF HOGSALT HOSPITALIT Y; THE JANE HOTEL; BIG GAY ICE CRE AM SHOP

WEST VILLAGE

GRAMERCY Want to live far enough downtown to enjoy the liveliness that accompanies the area, yet still be able enjoy a sophisticated lifestyle that echoes that of the Upper East Side? Gramercy might be your best bet—in fact, some native New Yorkers argue that the neighborhood, located on the east side between 23rd and 14th streets, should not even be considered “downtown.” Beautiful brownstones, townhouses, and pre-war apartment buildings line the quiet streets, making it an ideal residential area to settle. It’s also home to Gramercy Park, exclusive to only a handful of residents on the park. A few elegant restaurants in the area include Gramercy Tavern and Eleven Madison Park— both perfect options for a special birthday or anniversary. Visiting and need somewhere to stay? Check out the tranquil and completely renovated Marmara Park Avenue hotel, which features modern rooms, Turkish baths, and a new rooftop restaurant. Also trending is the scene at Freehand Hotel, where you can work and enjoy coffee on the mezzanine level, or sip on cocktails at the Broken Shaker bar. Counterclockwise from top left: The entrance of the Freehand Hotel; guests dining at Gramercy Tavern; dishes from Eleven Madison Park’s summer menu; the indoor pool at Marmara Park Avenue.

ADRIAN GAUT; LIZ CL AYMAN; EVAN SUNG; MARMARA HOTELS

COURTESY OF ERIC L AIGNEL; CHRISTIAN HORAN; BEEKMAN HOTEL;

FIDI The Financial District epitomizes the transformation of downtown New York over the past decade. Once most notable for serving as the epicenter of the city’s financial businesses and markets, it’s now also acknowledged as a hub of new construction (and affordable) residential high-rises with unrivaled amenities—not to mention the surrounding hotels and restaurants. Points of interest include the Four Seasons Downtown, which offers urban chic rooms, unrivaled views of the skyline, and the distinguished CUT by Wolfgang Puck—all within steps of the World Trade Center. Also notable is the new Nobu Downtown, serving modern Japanese cuisine to a stylish crowd, as well as the recently opened Alley Cat Amateur Theatre in the Beekman Hotel—an electric cocktail lounge in a once-hidden cellar. For those with a passion for movies, iPic Theaters offers a modern viewing experience, featuring cocktails and dinner in recliner seats. But not everything is new—FiDi is also home to Delmonico’s steakhouse, America’s oldest fine-dining restaurant. u Clockwise from top right: Nobu’s bar and lounge; the entrance of the Four Seasons Downtown; Alley Cat Amateur Theatre, the newly opened speakeasy at the Beekman.

HOLLYWOOD MEETS HISTORY

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importantly, the drastic separation between the rich and poor in the Gilded Age. Production designer Mara LePere-Schloop pored over documents at New York’s Tenement Museum to capture the raw reality of how the “other half” lived on the Lower East Side. The cramped, squalid conditions and littered streets were a stark juxtaposition to the ornate mansions of the wealthy with pastoral views of Central Park. Along with the scenery, Carr’s assertion that leaders of society were intertwined with the NYPD in the 1890s also holds This spread, clockwise from above left: As recreated in the TNT series The Alienist, New York City’s Lower East Side, with its tenement buildings housing the city’s poorest residents, was a crime-ridden, littered area much different than the pastoral Central Park views enjoyed by the wealthy; American financier J. P. Morgan and his TV double, played by Michael Ironside; the series (based on Caleb Carr’s 1994 novel) delves into the era’s rampant police corruption, often involving society’s more elite characters.

L I B R A RY O F CO N G R E S S ( J . P. M O R G A N )

ASIDE FROM MYTHS, folklore, and spooky tales of haunted haunts in the city, New York was, for many, a scary place at the turn of the 20th century. Caleb Carr’s 1994 novel The Alienist uncovered these horrors in a fictional tale depicting a gruesome string of murders on the Lower East Side in 1896. This year, TNT’s drama series of the same name brought the story to life with Hollywood starlets—including Luke Evans, Daniel Brühl, and Dakota Fanning—and a setting that includes many New York institutions, like the Financial District’s Delmonico’s Steak House. Along with such recognizable society members as Teddy Roosevelt (then New York City Police Commissioner) and J. P. Morgan, it can leave viewers wondering how much of the narrative is actually true. The storyline that Roosevelt enlisted the help of Dr. Laszlo Kreizler, a prominent psychiatrist (called alienists at the turn of the century), to help solve an outbreak of child murders is complete fiction. But both the book and the series did an impressive job of capturing the dynamics of the city at the time, and most

K ATA V E R M E S / T N T ( T H I S S P R E A D A N D F O LLO W I N G ) ;

BY ANN LOYND BURTON

water. In fact, Cornelius Vanderbilt, who is a character in The Alienist books, had a real-life run-in with the law, explains Daniel Czitrom, author of New York Exposed: The Gilded Age Police Scandal that Launched the Progressive Era (Oxford University Press). According to Czitrom, Vanderbilt’s son-inlaw, Robert Crawford, was involved in a wild shoot-out on the street near the family’s mansion. When the police chased down Crawford hiding in Vanderbilt’s home, the business magnate sent for Thomas Byrnes, captain of the Mercer Street Station, requesting $2,000 to invest on his behalf. Leveraging his stock market connections, Vanderbilt quickly turned that $,2000 in to $6,000 as a reward to quell the scandal. In 1894, Roosevelt forced Byrnes out of the department in an effort to clean up corruption in the NYPD. At the time, Byrnes was worth $350,000 (about $10 million today) even though he never made more than $3,500 a year. Byrnes and the police department, Czitrom explains, didn’t care about small-potatoes payouts from saloons and brothels. The real money came from the Vanderbilts, Morgans, and Depews of the city who counted on the NYPD to keep their heels on the labor movement, anarchists, trade unions, and socialists. “The police department was seen to wealthy New York as the institution to maintain social order,” he says, noting that Delmonico’s—a main meeting hub in The Alienist—was a frequent gathering ground for these groups. Each year, the NYPD would have a gala dinner for all the captains, who Czistrom says were akin to “an emperor of each precinct.” “It was a place where New York’s political elite would come and deliver a solute to the NYPD, and invoke police control over riots,” he says. “And, it was famous for people draining $600 of champagne in one night.” Even though Delmonico’s still stands on Beaver Street in the 116 QUEST

Financial District, TNT decided to build its own recreation of the restaurant in Budapest, Hungary. As a testament to the original, The Alienist premiere party was held at Delmonico’s and attended by actors in period costume. The restaurant, touted as the first fine-dining establishment in the country, restored the 56 Beaver Street location to reflect the opulence of its early years, and the chefs still serve a prime cut of beef prepared to the original specifications. It’s unlikely, however, that you’ll be able to arrange a bribe over your filet mignon. u

This spread, clockwise from above left: Scenes from TNT’s The Alienist feature Dakota Fanning as the fictional Sara Howard, although Teddy Roosevelt did in fact hire a female clerk to work in the NYPD headquarters during his time as commissioner; police officials and titans of industry co-mingle at a gala; the fictional Roosevelt played by Brian Geraghty; Roosevelt sought to stomp out corruption when he took over the force; “Cliff Dwellers” is a painting by George Bellows, depicting the crowded population on the Lower East side in 1913, where people spill out of tenement buildings and onto the streets, stoops, and fire escapes.

R E A L E S TAT E GREENWICH VILLAGE

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SOUTHWARD EXPANSION TO LOWER MANHATTAN AND SOUTHERN CHARM P R O D U C E D B Y B R O O K E K E L LY

Empty-nesters and Millennials alike are fleeing their uptown digs for the bustling neighborhoods in downtown New York and beyond.

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CHRIS POORE Sotheby's International Realty / 347.661.5389 / chris.poore@sothebyshomes.com

Q: How would you describe the downtown buyer? A: Savvy downtown buyers include a diverse demographic with a taste for modern luxury. While downtown buyers tend to be younger and partial to new developments, we do see a fair number of empty-nesters moving from uptown. Q: What does the downtown market look like right now? What advice would you offer buyers and sellers? A: There is an influx of inventory in the downtown market, which includes many new developments. Downtown developers collaborating with world-renowned “starchitects” have created high-profile boutique properties commanding a price per square foot to match. We are seeing a lot of price reductions where the buyer has negotiating power, especially for properties sitting on the market.

8A (pictured below). The listing—a boutique condo—embodies the best of downtown loft-like living. The sprawling three-bedroom, three-bath is a completely renovated apartment in a luxury full service building with 24-hour doorman and concierge, a gym, storage units, and a beautifully landscaped roof deck. The condo boasts 3,000 square feet of living and entertaining space with high ceilings and oversized windows throughout. Overlooking a gorgeous Beaux-Arts building, the listing is conveniently located within steps of Union Square and Fifth Avenue shopping. Other exciting details include the custom herringbone mahogany flooring with blackened steel accents that create the feeling of modern luxury and grandeur, and a stunning open kitchen with white-glass countertops perfect for entertaining guests. Also not to be missed is the master bedroom, which showcases a large walk-in closet, two additional closets, and a gorgeous spa-like en-suite bathroom adorned in Italian marble, a Thermomasseur tub, separate shower, double vanity, and Dornbracht fixtures.

Q: Which downtown neighborhoods would the Quest reader find most attractive? A: The Chelsea/Flatiron district is the epicenter of New York City, with easy access both downtown and uptown. It is vibrant, diverse, and appeals to downtown buyers as well as buyers looking to move from uptown to downtown. More often than not, people are being drawn to loft-like boutique buildings with all the modern amenities. Q: Do you have any listings that have attracted a lot of interest? A: Many have inquired about 32 West 18th Street Unit,

S OT H E BY ' S I N TE R N AT I O N A L R E A LT Y

32 West 18th Street, #8A, in Flatiron; $5,195,000.

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MICHELLE AND REBA MILLER RP Miller Team at Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices New York Properties / 646.641.6541 / MichelleMiller@bhhsnyproperties.com or RebaMiller@bhhsnyproperties.com Q: How would you describe the downtown vibe? A: As longtime and native New Yorkers, a lot of our thoughts about the different neighborhoods stem from growing up here. The downtown market has definitely seen some changes, particularly in the interests of a more high-end buyer. Generally speaking, we’d define the downtown vibe, in terms of emerging real estate options, as having an elevated edge with lots of attitude—175 West 12th Street in the Greenwich Village area, specifically. With great views of the city, clients seem to be specifically drawn to the location, but connect to the beautiful finishings and features of the unit. This building

in particular is a high-rise in close proximity to mostly low-rise buildings. Therefore, on the 11th floor, we are lucky to have eastern views that make for a fantastic city backdrop throughout. Q: Which neighborhoods would you recommend? A: We’d recommend the East and West Village, Greenwich Village, SoHo, Union Square, and the Financial District. Q: Have you seen many looking to relocate from uptown? A: The trends we’ve seen in the particular clientele seem to be parents with their children (with close proximity to NYU) and people looking for investments. These clients with highend tastes really love an apartment that’s already staged beautifully—we’ve had tremendous interest in our staging. We are really lucky to work with Vanessa Grasso, who has an incredible aesthetic for high-end clientele. Q: Anything else you’d like to share? A: When you think of that really edgy bar with the hanging pendant lights, plush couches that look only slightly uncomfortable but are anything but, where drinks are a little pricier than you want them to be and everything looks new and modern, that’s what people seem to be looking for in downtown real estate. It’s an elevated, more modern update to everything people dream of when they think of the cool New York City they always wanted to live in. It’s imperative, even when staging apartments, to encapsulate that vibe.

B E R K S H I R E H AT H A WAY H O M E S E RV I C E S N E W Y O R K P RO P E RT I E S

175 West 12th Street, #11J, in Greenwich Village; $1,895,000.

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JEFFREY STOCKWELL Stribling & Associates / 917.449.3433 / jstockwell@stribling.com

Q: Is there a typical downtown buyer today? A: I find that many of my Greenwich Village buyers are empty-nesters from the Upper East Side. They are bored with life uptown and looking for something new and different. However, the problem is that there are not enough luxury properties (especially condos) in the best Central and West Village locations. Q: Have any neighborhoods been particularly popular among your buyers? A: The Village is always popular with buyers. I have often said that it may be the only neighborhood in Manhattan that everyone agrees is an ideal place to live. West siders may disdain the East Side and east siders may look down on the West Side, but they all seem to agree that the Village is a great place.

Q: Where would you direct someone looking for an investment property? A: The prices of houses in the Village have come down in recent years and I think that they make an excellent investment. They are rare, desirable, and easy to rent if kept in mint condition. Another place to look for medium-tolong-term investments is the Broadway corridor in eastern Tribeca. It is still a little scruffy, and the retail isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t as chic as in other parts of the neighborhood, but the housing stock is excellent and it will be fully integrated into the fancier parts of Tribeca within the next few years. Q: Please share one of your exclusive listings. A: I have a spectacular new listing at 101 Warren Street in Tribeca (below). It's a three-bedroom, three-bathroom with high ceilings throughout. The great room, dining room, and third bedroom open to a 325-foot terrace with views for miles. Every room in the apartment has unobstructed views over Duane Park, the Hudson River, and Midtown. 101 Warren Street also offers unrivaled amenities. 101 Warren Street, #11C, in Tribeca; $15,000 per month.

S T R I B L I N G & A S S O C I ATE S

Q: What are the best areas for someone young and single? What about for couples and families? A: Families are often drawn to Tribeca, where the public schools are popular and you get a larger space than you would in the Village or Gramercy for the same price. Tribeca is the new Greenwich or Scarsdale. More and more families are staying in the city rather than moving to the suburbs, but

they want large spaces near parks with good schools and lots of child-friendly amenities nearby.

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SUZUN BENNET Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices New York Properties / 917.459.8874 / SuzunBennet@bhhsNYproperties.com

Q: Do any downtown buildings come to mind when considering the Quest reader? A: The Quest reader has an enormous range to select from when it comes to new condominium developments in the downtown area, depending on their preferences. Downtown transformed itself in the past decade, and is considered cooler than uptown by most people’s standards. At one end of the spectrum is the very unique 520 West 28th Street, located next to the High Line—a mere two blocks from the Hudson Yards highrise developments. What makes this building so special is the way the architect transformed a difficult site within the city’s contemporary art neighborhood in West Chelsea into homes that have attracted some of the city’s most discerning celebrity residents. The building offers a 75-foot indoor sky lit lap pool, a private IMAX cinema, and more. Q: What are the up-and-coming areas? A: The Lower East Side and West Chelsea’s Hudson Yards area are the most up-and-coming downtown areas. Real estate transformation through the development of new buildings is fast-paced in both areas, although sales are sometimes slow due to the enormous number of newly built properties.

prices that were previously only achieved uptown. There seems to be a general trend with people looking to relocate from uptown to downtown. At the same time, this becomes an opportunity for others to move uptown east/west, where prices may be comparatively lower per square foot in some buildings, as buildings uptown are now older and have fewer new amenities, or are co-ops. Q: Tell us about one of your hottest listings. A: Two of my hottest listings this fall are 60 Thomas Street, #4, in Tribeca, and the penthouse at 17 Orchard Street in the Lower East Side.

60 Thomas Street, #4, in Tribeca; $3,495,000.

B E R K S H I R E H AT H A WAY H O M E S E RV I C E S N E W Y O R K P RO P E RT I E S

Q: Do you see a lot of established uptown residents and families looking to relocate? A: Downtown has transformed into a highly sought after address in the past decade, with people willing to pay the

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DEBBIE FISHER Handsome Properties / 843.810.4110 / debbie@handsomeproperties.com

Q: Why might some of our young downtown dwellers looking for a second home want to consider Charleston? What makes Charleston unique from other popular beach getaways such as the Hamptons and Palm Beach? A: The prices in Charleston are much more attractive than those in the Hamptons or Palm Beach—the walkability, award-winning restaurants, art scene, and great nightlife are also big bonuses for the Holy City. The history, architecture, and beauty of the Lowcountry add to the enjoyment of sailing, boating, surfing, and golfing. Q: What are the most popular areas in Charleston? A: The historic peninsula has always been the most popular area in Charleston, but the resurgence of the upper peninsula is developing into a fantastic area for young professionals, creatives, and buyers who want to downsize but also be part of the hip scene. These areas are Wagner Terrace, Hampton Park, and NoMo.

Q: What does the Charleston market look like right now? Any advice for our readers? A: The market in Charleston is strong as our city continues to grow with industries such as Boeing and Volvo settling here. Our beautiful city has also been described as the Silicon City of the South with the growth of our tech industry. Fortunately, we have many new Charlestonians with diverse skill sets who are highly educated and talented. Charleston has been awarded many accolades from magazines such as Travel + Leisure and Condé Nast Traveler, which has resulted in global exposure. Q: Tell us about an exclusive listing. A: 32 Legare Street in the South of Broad neighborhood of historic Downtown Charleston is a fabulous property dating back to the late 18th century. This large, renovated estate is over 17,000 square feet—one of the largest on the peninsula. u

Q: Tell us more about Handsome Properties. A: Handsome Properties is a full-service, luxury boutique firm representing buyers and sellers. We specialize in historic properties on the peninsula, waterfront estates, and homes on the pristine barrier islands.

H A N D S O M E P RO P E RT I E S

32 Legare Street in Downtown Charleston; listed for $15,990,000.

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O P P O S I TE PA G E : J E N N A B A S CO M , CO U RTE S Y M U S E U M O F A RTS A N D D E S I G N .

T H I S PA G E : P D R E A R I C K , CO U RT E S Y C R A N B RO O K A RT M U S E U M .

MOVING FORWARD AT MAD BY DANIEL CAPPELLO

This spread: A view from the exhibit “Too Fast to Live, Too Young to Die: Punk Graphics, 1976–1986,” which is set to open at the Museum of Arts and Design (MAD) in April 2019. Above right: MAD’s new director, Christopher Scoates.

JUST A FEW MONTHS into his position as the newly minted director, it’s B clear Y Nthat A M Christopher E G O E S HScoates E R E was the right man for the job at the Museum of Arts and Design. MAD, as it’s known, is New York City’s champion and presenter of artists, designers, and artisans at the highest level of ingenuity and craftsmanship. Scoates, who relocated to New York from Michigan’s Cranbrook Academy of Art and Art Museum, is bringing with him a pedigreed past in the arts along with a vision of how to steer MAD into the rest of this century. “There’s a very strong craft legacy at MAD,” Scoates says, “and my goal is to shore up that legacy while expanding upon experimental programing in design.” One of Scoates’s standout accomplishments while serving as director of Cranbrook was to develop a program in 4-D design. “I became very interested in having a new technology program like 4-D butt up against the more traditional disciplines of craft, believing that they could inform each other in new and unexpected ways,” he explains. OCTOBER 2018 125

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COURTESY C ANNUPA HAN SK A LUGER (BOT TOM RIGHT ); COURTESY HEIDI L AU AND GE ARY, NY (BOT TOM LEF T ).

But we don’t have to wait until spring to discover what’s new at MAD. Opening this month, “Sterling Ruby: Ceramics” is the first museum exhibition to focus on the ceramic works of Los Angeles–based artist Sterling Ruby. Ruby’s larger body of art includes a wide range of formats, many with a relationship to craft traditions, both studio and amateur. Sculptures in clay, which the artist calls his “monumental material,” have long held a fascinating and primary position in Ruby’s studio work, and the medium has a long tradition across many cultures, used by artists and craftspeople to create both functional objects and high art. Also on display now through March are the works by finalists for MAD’s exciting and inaugural Burke Prize for contemporary art. The prize, named for craft collectors Marian and Russell Burke, drew an outstandingly diverse and competitive pool of 500 artists working to expand the field of craft. The exhibition, “The Burke Prize 2018: The Future of Craft Part 2,” includes 36 works in all by the 16 finalists, from jewelry to installation, furniture, and digital media. Both the prize and its accompanying exhibition continue MAD’s founding mission of championing artists who work in craft media and methodologies. It’s a way of bringing attention to the breadth and variety of work being made by young artists nationwide, and that’s a future Scoates— and MAD—are counting on. u

THIS PAGE: ROBERT WEDEMEYER, COURTESY STERLING RUBY STUDIO. OPPOSITE PAGE: COURTESY JOSH FAUGHT (TOP);

Now MAD is set for some new ways of its own, especially as Scoates aims to pave the path for a more robust future of design through experimental programing and an emphasis on the interactive elements, which are intriguing a new generation of students in the discipline. With this eye to the future, there will surely be a new language for exhibitions at MAD. First up is the punk exhibit already in the works for spring. Curated by Andrew Blauvelt and coming from Cranbrook to New York, the exhibit, “Too Fast to Live, Too Young to Die: Punk Graphics, 1976–1986,” explores the unique visual language of the punk movement from the mid-1970s to the mid-1980s through hundreds of its most memorable graphics: flyers, posters, albums, promotions, and zines. Since its rebellious inception in the ’70s, punk has always manifested itself in very visual forms of expression, from the dress and hairstyles of its devotees and the onstage theatrics of its musicians to the graphic design of its various forms of printed matter. As such, punk’s energy coalesced into a powerful subcultural phenomenon that transcended music to affect other fields like visual art and design. Set to open on April 9, 2019, this exhibit will be more focused on punk in New York and is expected to have a series of events surrounding it—talks, lectures, films, and performances— meant to draw a younger audience in.

This page: Works by finalists in “The Burke Prize 2018: The Future of Craft Part 2” include Josh Faught’s Between a Rock and a Hard Place, 2017 (above); Cannupa Hanska Luger’s Every One, 2018 (below right); and Heidi Lau’s The Sleepwalker, 2016/18 (below left). Opposite page: Sterling Ruby’s Basin Theology/STYX BOAT, 2017, part of “Sterling Ruby: Ceramics,” now on view at MAD.

OOCCTTOOBBEERR 22001188 102 0 7

THOMASVILLE: A TRADITIONAL WAY OF SPORTING LIFE RENEWED

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several winter hotels, such as the Queen Anne–style Piney Woods Hotel, built in 1875, where Yankees would come for the winter months. While dove, duck, and ’gators have always been plentiful for locals to pursue, the first quail shooting plantations in Thomasville were developed over a hundred years ago by the Hanna family from Ohio. Charles Chapin was the first Hanna to set foot in Thomas County, probably in about 1885, and since then Hanna descendants and many others have acquired land and erected homes and lodges so that the Red Hills plantation belt now contains the highest concentration

T R I A L C LU B ; RO B E RT C . B A L F O U R , J R .

TUCKED AWAY IN the southwest corner of Georgia near the Florida border is one of the world’s foremost bird shooting paradises. For over a hundred years, the Red Hills region has been one of the great bobwhite quail bastions in the country and, given the devastating drought in Texas over the last seven years, is now the last redoubt of birds living in the wild for this exciting and highly civilized way of sporting life. The Indians were the first conservators of this land, but the treaties they entered into with settlers were broken and in the mid-1800s they were exiled west on the Trail of Tears. Before the railroad was extended to Florida Thomasville had

B E N M CCO LLU M ; T H E G E O R G I A - F LO R I DA F I E L D

BY JAMES MACGUIRE

QUEST ARCHIVE: OCTOBER 2012

Opposite page: The Georgia/Florida Field Trial Club's annual shooting dog trials. This page, from top: Live Oak hounds, casting off for a hunt; the home of Mrs. Parker Poe on Pebble Hill Plantation; John M. Olin and Richard Tift shooting on one of the many area plantations famous for their quail shooting preserves.

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“I’ve hunted...all over the world, and there’s nothing that compares to the quail hunting here,” one transplanted Northerner says. of traditional quail hunting in the world. Families like the Whitneys, Fords, Irelands, duPonts, Perkins, Fitzgeralds, Humphreys, Loves, and Gerrys have maintained a way of life that is reminiscent in its graciousness of the Antebellum South. Its past is dotted with marks of distinction; President Eisenhower and the Duke of Windsor have been among the many honored guests to enjoy Thomasville’s legendary hospitality and unparalleled sport. Along the way, traditions have taken root that continue to flourish into today. The Georgia-Florida Field Trial Club was formed by 30 members in 1916 and at its first trial only 10 dogs ran. The Field Trial is always held on the third Monday in February, and at a recent renewal 23 dogs ran before a crowd of 407 members and guests. All of these plantation owners share a common conservation 130 QUEST

and land-management ethic to preserve this precious part of the world for future generations to come. Tall Timbers, the local land-preservation group, has been highly acclaimed for its innovative research and effective advocacy for conservation easements in the Red Hills. Productivity and conservation have been so sensitively managed that today there is more wildlife than ever before—even more than in the time of the Indians. Why have those on the inner circle of the bird-shooting world flocked to Thomasville for generations? The first reason is undoubtedly the quality of the sport. Quail living in the wild are more wary than those bred on devoted shooting lands, and they flush more quickly and fly much faster, which is a thrilling challenge for Americans and visiting Europeans alike. Then there is the quality of the dog work. The pointers quiver in anticipation, as they hold steadfast for the quail to be flushedl, while the retrievers methodically work the ground in order to locate the birds that have been shot. Still, beyond the sporting life, the appeal of this area also owes to the many-faceted traditions of the plantation lifestyle. “There cannot be anything more beautiful than an earlywinter morning with frost on the fields and a warm sun rising through the tall pines,” writes James Mason. From there—in a region rich with forests, lakes, and rivers—inhabitants and

B E N M CCO LLU M ; T H E G E O R G I A - F LO R I DA F I E L D T R I A L C LU B ; RO B E RT C . B A L F O U R , J R .

QUEST ARCHIVE: OCTOBER 2012

Above, from left: Pinetree Boulevard, going through Greenwood Plantation, allows the public to catch a glimpse of the historically beautiful forest around it; modern hunters out on a plantation; a lunchtime picnic in 1939 on the Milestone Plantation. Below: A 1998 map of plantation ownership in southwest Georgia.

visitors alike ride out to the shoot on horseback or on the back of a mule-driven wagon in traditional shooting attire. “Nooning” takes place for some in the fields, where the wagondrivers and other shoot staff prepare delicious meals deep in the wild. For others, picnic cabins host long cookouts. As long as anyone can remember, lunches have always included a warm casserole, carted out in a part of the shooting wagon called “the hot box.” Southern banter and liquid refreshment stimulate the bonhomie of the sport at hand. In the evening there are elaborate dinners and frequent entertaining of neighbors and fellow sportsmen at the plantations themselves. And the plantation houses are beautiful homes: red brick or white with black shutters, countless chimneys and columns, porches and gardens, all reminiscent of Tara in Gone with the Wind. Their very names evoke another era, too—El Destino, Hines Hill, Easter, and Mandalay, to name but a few. After the evening’s entertainment, residents and guests retire to bed, a fire blazing in their rooms on chilly nights, and before shooting begins the following morning, breakfast is served inroom. In fact, in his autobiography, band leader Peter Duchin recalls a too-early-in-the-dawn knock on the door by a servant at John Hay Whitney’s Thomasville plantation and having to beat a hasty retreat from his fiancée’s bed back to his own 132 QUEST

room. Those were the days! “We continue to be engaged by an elite group of sportsmen who recognize the uniqueness of the Red Hills area and who are looking to create their own plantation legacy,” states Ben McCollum, whose firm The Wright Group serves as the leading authority on plantation properties. In his elegiac memoir This Land I Have Loved, Thomasville’s historian Robert C. Balfour, Jr., spoke for many when he wrote, “If I were to be granted one last wish it would be that this unspoiled land might stay unspoiled. I would like for my children and their children, and all children for that matter, to be able to fill lungs with its clean, soft air, to watch its wildlife, to listen to its birdsong, to the yelping of turkeys, the distant scream of a hawk, the plaintive, muted cooing of doves high up in the tall pine trees.” Thomasville has been a great American sporting tradition for over a century and is poised to remain so for like-minded generations to come. In addition to its famous quail hunting, the region is home to phenomenal turkey and deer hunting. With recent news of a bumper hatch of quail last summer, as well as many ongoing local cultural events like the Wildlife Arts Festival, Thomasville guarantees a good time for sporting and nonsporting visitors alike. Come on down to southwest Georgia and see Thomasville and its beautiful plantations for yourself! u

B E N M CCO LLU M ; T H E G E O R G I A - F LO R I DA F I E L D T R I A L C LU B ; RO B E RT C . B A L F O U R , J R .

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Opposite page: A hunter takes aim; one of the hunting wagons used during the trials; Winstead Plantation (inset). This page, clockwise from top left: Old postcards illustrate the Thomasville of yore; the result of a good day's hunt; Foshalee Lodge; a happy couple coming in from a duck hunt.

HIGH SHOPPING IN LOWER MAHNATTAN Downtown’s shopping scene—from SoHo’s endless options to the newest boutiques at Financial District’s Brookfield Place—offers every taste of luxury with a bit more edge than you’ll find above 14th Street. When filling out your fall wardrobe, consider visiting these opulent outposts.

P H OTO C R E D I T G O E S H E R E

BY ANN LOYND BURTON

MULBERRY 134 Spring Street 646.669.8380 / mulberry.com/us Although Mulberry has evolved quite a bit since it began making leather goods in Somerset, England, in 1971, its British design ethos remains the same. Mulberry’s two factories are called The Rookery, based in Chilcompton, and The Willows, in nearby Bridgwater. And in 2015, Johnny Coca joined as creative director to oversee the collections as well as the image and the evolution of Mulberry’s legacy. See how Coca has flawlessly updated British classics for women with modern whimsy at the brand’s expansive SoHo location, where you can shop ready-to-wear, bags, and footwear.

RALPH LAUREN 109 Prince Street 212.625.1660 / ralphlauren.com Polo Ralph Lauren’s towering retail emporium in SoHo welcomes you to the world of the brand, focusing on that unmistakable pony that started it all. New Yorkers flock here to outfit themselves in America’s favorite designer—from shortsleeved polos for the golf and tennis courts to elegant evening wear for nights on the town. For fall, stock up on the best denim offering around, with five fits for men and eight silhouettes for women to ensure you find a pair that hugs in all the right places. This season, top trends include nostalgic university styling for guys and Western looks for women, but since it’s Ralph, you can guarantee the pieces on offer will be classic for years to come.

LAFAYETTE 148 148 Lafayette Street, 8th Floor 855.608.1408 / lafayette148ny.com Lafayette 148 was founded with the concept to offer completely personalized selections for its customers—with services like made-to-order options, personal style advisors, and a completely private shopping experience. That ethos is perfectly woven into the brand’s premiere store, located in SoHo. Open to guests by appointment as well as walk-ins, enjoy an array of special perks including car service to and from the store, complimentary alterations, and special size offerings. With a full collection in-stock, stylists are on hand to help find a special event-piece or to completely revamp your wardrobe.

THE APARTMENT BY THE LINE 76 Greene Street, 3rd Floor 917.460.7196 / theline.com With the continuing decline of traditional retail, it’s clear shoppers are looking for a more inspired way to shop. Enter The Apartment by The Line, a light-filled aerie in the heart of SoHo. Situated in a beautiful space and meticulously curated for form and function, fashion, home, and beauty items get new life. Make the most of your visit by booking a private appointment, where you can work with a stylist and browse a personal selection of items chosen specifically for you. Walk out with a new bespoke jacket as well as a custom-designed velvet sofa, or whatever speaks to you among a canvas for a life well lived.

PROENZA SCHOULER 121 Greene Street 212.420.7300 / proenzaschouler.com New York–based womenswear and accessories brand Proenza Schouler was founded in 2002 by designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who impacted fashion with their unique silhouettes and shapes. In fact, the brand helped define “downtown cool” with the launch of its PS1 bag. McCollough and Hernadez met while studying at Parson’s School of Design, eventually collaborating on their senior thesis, which became their first collection as Proenza Schouler. That ingenuity continues for the fall season, with a fresh offering of animal-print shoes, multimedia jewelry, structured totes, and figure-skimming daywear.

AG JEANS 113 Green Street 212.680.0581 / agjeans.com AG’s DNA is rooted in denim, but since launching in 2000 by industry pioneer Yul Ku, the brand has grown to a full line of ready-to-wear for men and women while retaining its position as a premium denim brand. Young consumers are especially hooked on AG’s socially responsible ethos, with its signature Ozone Technology and use of eco-conscious fibers. Shop a large array of silhouettes, from trendy cropped flares and the “ex-boyfriend” jean to the tried-and-true skinny cut, in true-to-fit sizing that will take the frustration out of denim shopping.

LOUIS VUITTON 116 Greene Street 212.274.9090 / us.louisvuitton.com In 1837, a 16-year-old Louis Vuitton arrived in Paris and started apprenticing for Monsieur Maréchal, a successful box-maker. At the time, horse-drawn carriages, boats, and trains were the main modes of transportation. Baggage was handled roughly. Vuitton quickly became a valued craftsman—the beginning of his career in an industry that called upon skills to design boxes and, later, trunks according to clients’ wishes. Today, Louis Vuitton upholds the same quality standards in its signature monogram leather goods. Stop into the SoHo store and create your own personalized My LV Belt or add your initials to any piece with hot stamping.

ACNE STUDIOS 33 Greene Street 212.334.8345 / acnestudios.com Acne Studios is a Stockholm-based fashion house with a multidisciplinary approach. Through founder and creative director Jonny Johansson’s interest in photography, art, architecture, and contemporary culture, the brand carved an alternative fashion path, turning Acne Studios into a well-respected creator of ready-to-wear clothing, magazines, furniture, books, and artistic exhibitions. The collections are defined by Johansson’s attention to detail, with an emphasis on tailoring and an eclectic use of materials and custom-developed fabrics. For fall, shop shearling moto jackets, oversized T-shirts, and perfectly worn fringe scarves.

CLOAK & DAGGER

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334 East 9th Street 212.673.0500 / cloakanddaggernyc.com Cloak & Dagger oozes East Village cool. First opened in 2009, this trendy outpost offers the store’s namesake line as well as apparel, shoes, and accessories from such designers as A Peace Treaty, Jeffrey Campbell, and Parme Marin. Brookelynn Starnes launched the brand in 2006 after working for Valentino, Prada, and Zac Posen. Her vintage, romantic aesthetic is met with expert tailoring and luxurious fabrics for pieces that are on-trend yet timeless. The store’s mix of offerings includes new items and authentic vintage pieces, so you can stock up on luxe bodysuits and a 1970s-era Penny Suede coat with a genuine fur collar, all in one stop. OCTOBER 2018 137

KIRNA ZABÊTE 477 Broome Street 212.941.9656 / kirnazabete.com Both a SoHo fixture and coveted worldwide online, Kirna Zabête was founded by two best friends in 1999 and is currently owned by Beth Buccini, who personally selects each item sold at the boutique. From Céline, Dior, and Gucci to Monse, Nili Lotan, and Zimmermann, Buccini’s mix is flawlessly curated to represent bright offerings that marry luxury and contemporary fashion. For fall, Kirna Zabête essentials include “cozy sweaters, bright accessories, and a relaxed attitude.” We’ll take the Ganni Striped Jumper and Lowe Patchwork Puzzle bag, please.

LULULEMON 250 Vesey Street, Space 115 212.786.0315 / lululemon.com Innovators of this decade’s biggest buzzword, athleisure, Lululemon’s vast selection of tops, yoga pants, swimsuits, accessories, and allaround “gear to sweat in” arguably pioneered the athletic-chic movement. Grab outfits for the gym, for a workout class, for a long run… or even for Sunday errands. Quality materials and expert construction ensures pieces won’t shrink, crinkle, or rub in the wrong places. Offering clothing and accessories for both sexes, Lululemon focuses on function (though pieces are always flattering). Most pants and tops, for example, feature hidden pockets so your phone doesn’t hobble around or fall out—ideal for your run to the gym, or to brunch.

BOTTEGA VENETA

Located in New York City’s new shopping mecca, Brookfield Place, Bottega Veneta’s Lower Manhattan outpost offers a full range of leather goods, shoes, jewelry, eyewear, and fragrances for men and women. Featuring the brand’s signature store concept, every element of the interior—from the walnut tables to the handcrafted vitrines to the door handles sheathed in leather—has been custom-made. Famed for unmatched Italian leatherwork, shop this season’s must-have items, from slouchy hobos to fringe belts and the ever-debatable belt bag (just don’t call it a fanny pack). 138 QUEST

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225 Liberty Street, Suite 124 212.271.2626 / bottegaveneta.com

WARBY PARKER 121 Greene Street 646.568.3720 / warbyparker.com Warby Parker was founded with a rebellious spirit and a lofty objective: to offer designer eyewear at a revolutionary price, while leading the way for socially conscious businesses. Warby Parker believes that the experience of buying glasses should leave you happy and looking good—and with money in your pocket. They also believe that everyone has the right to see. To help put a dent in the one billion people needing glasses worldwide (a staggering 15 percent of the population), the brand features a “buy-a-pair, give-a-pair” model by partnering with nonprofits like VisionSpring. In the store, shop the brand’s mix of ontrend and classic options. Blessed with perfect vision? Warby Parker offers a full line of sunglasses, no subscription needed.

MONCLER 99 Prince Street 646.350.3620 / moncler.com Founded in 1952 in Monestier-deClermont, France, Moncler (now located in Italy) has maintained its European style and sensibility. Over the course of the years, the brand has merged fashion with technological research, harnessing the knowledge of mountaineering experts. Moncler’s pieces look (and operate) as well on mountaintops as they do on city streets. New this year, the brand debuts Moncler Simone Rocha, a capsule that combines haute-couture styling with the warmest materials, like lightweight nylon filled with down. Make the street your runway this season, even if there’s another Polar Vortex.

OPENING CEREMONY

P H OTO C R E D I T G O E S H E R E

35 Howard Street 212.219.2688 / openingceremony.com Opening Ceremony was founded in 2002 by two college friends, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, as a place to share their passions for travel, art, and fashion. Inspired by a trip to Hong Kong, the two decided to leave their jobs in corporate fashion to realize their unique dream. What began as a single store on a quiet street in downtown New York, OC now boasts outposts in New York, Los Angeles, and Tokyo. Taking its name and mission statement from the modern Olympic Games, Opening Ceremony adopts a multinational approach to retail, stocking both established and up-andcoming brands as well as its own signature line of street-chic apparel, accessories, and exclusive designer collaborations.

K E L LY

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THE YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST BY BROOKE KELLY Maria Fedorova, Maryna Lynchuck, Jordan Barrett, and Irina Shayk.

Clockwise from top left: Gigi Hadid—Messika’s current muse and party co-host—recently announced a second collaboration with the jewelry house; singer and songwriter Poppy wearing Messika jewelry; models Leila NDA and Maria Borges; Victoria’s Secret Angel and model Jasmine Tookes with Valérie Messika, founder and owner of the Parisian jewelry brand; Teyana Taylor delivered a lively performance, which was followed

CO U RTE S Y O F G E T T Y; M O R G A N D E S S A LLE S / B E S T I M A G E

by a set from French DJ duo Kartell and Dabeull.

MESSIKA FASHION WEEK BASH WITH GIGI HADID TO CLOSE OUT New York Fashion Week with a bang, French

jeweler Messika and its current ambassador, Gigi Hadid, hosted a glamorous event for more than 600 guests at the Milk Studios penthouse. The tinted red lighting throughout the venue created an edgy ambiance that echoed the brand’s current campaign for its rock ‘n’ roll Move Addiction Collection, which features Hadid. The campaign was shot by Mert and Marcus in New York a few months back. The jewelry house also just revealed its second collaboration with its muse—a collection with a sensual Bohe-

mian style, contrasting the aforementioned punk-rock vibes. The My Soul collection includes summery and gentle-looking earrings, necklaces, chokers, rings, and hand jewelry, which are now available in Messika stores around the world. Attendees included Tiffany Haddish, Irina Shayk, Jasmine Tookes, Halima Aden, Jordan Barrett, Maria Borges, Poppy, J Alexander, Law Roach, and Teyana Taylor, who delivered a surprise performance. Guests also enjoyed beats by French DJ duo Kartell and Dabeull later on. OCTOBER 2018 141

Wershe, Sr. in White Boy Rick, and Camilla Alves; Keytt and Alex Lundqvist; Bel Powley, Richie Merritt—who co-stars in the film as Rich Jr.—and Jonathan Majors.

▲ WHITE BOY RICK PREMIERE

▼ LOUIS XIII COGNAC’S PARTY IN BROOKLYN

LAST MONTH, the Cinema Society hosted a special screening at Paris Theater in Midtown for White Boy Rick. The film takes place during the 1980s in Detroit, amid America’s crack epidemic and war on drugs. The plot follows the life of blue-collar father Richard Wershe, Sr. (Matthew McConaughey), and his son Rich, Jr., (Richie Merritt) who evolves into an infamous drug dealer— ultimately used as a pawn for powerful politicians in Detroit, a city rife with corruption. After the screening, guests enjoyed an after-party at the Skylark and drank Wild Turkey Longbranch cocktails named The Informant and Detroit Dream.

TO COMPLETE THE U.S. tour of its charitable musical composition “100 Years—The Song We’ll Only Hear If We Care,” Louis XIII Cognac hosted an exclusive party at 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge. The brand’s “100 Years” project launched in November in collaboration with Pharrell Williams to raise awareness for global warming. Guests of the party included Louis XIII global brand director Ludovic du Plessis, global communications director Caroline Sarrot-Lecarpentie, Tim Hardaway, Jr., Sophie Auster, Johannes Huebl, Amirah Kassem, Juliette Longuet, and Thomas Hayo, among others.

Left to right: Johannes Huebl, Sarah Pallack, Mary Anne Huntsman, and Amirah Kassem at Louis XIII Cognac’s party at 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge; Sophie Auster and Spencer Ostrander; Amber Mundinger and Valerie Loh. 142 QUEST

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Left to right: Matthew McConaughey, who stars as blue-collar father Richard

Clockwise from top left: Scarlett Byrne and Cooper Hefner, chief creative officer of Playboy Enterprises; Ice T and Coco Austin; Dylan Lauren; the iconic Playboy Bunnies remain at the center of every moment at the new club, serving cocktails and culinary creations; Robin Thicke performing his notable hit “Blurred Lines” for the excited crowd.

PLAYBOY CLUB NEW YORK HOSTS OPENING CELEBRATION

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ON SEPTEMBER 12, the new Playboy Club New York welcomed

a star-studded roster of guests including Martha Stewart, Ice T, Coco Austin, Dierks Bentley, Kelly Bensimon, and Gigi Gorgeous, to a celebration in honor of its opening. Robin Thicke took to the stage, performing a number of Michael Jackson hits before a big finale featuring his own hit “Blurred Lines.” Located in Midtown, the Playboy Club commemorates all things provocative, exclusive, and playful. The club features an ornate entrance with a Playboy Gallery, along with chic lounges consisting of

Baroque ceilings, large leather couches, and acclaimed Playboy artwork inspired by the renowned Playboy Mansion. One of the lounges also features a custom built 600-gallon exotic aquarium boasting a hand-sculpted, bunny head reef. “Having the Playboy Club return to New York City, in partnership with Merchants Hospitality as best-in-class operators, is another great opportunity for people to experience the sophistication and playful side of our brand,” said Ben Kohn, CEO of Playboy Enterprises. The club also offers private VIP memberships for exclusive perks. u OCTOBER 2018 143

SNAPSHOT

This page: R. J. Hay, Jr.’s book 54 Nights (center), and several photographs of Studio 54 that the author took himself during nights spent at the famous club; a note card detailing a playlist from one night.

IS THERE ANYTHING left to say that hasn’t already been written about one of New York’s—and the world’s—most famous nightclubs of all time? Perhaps there is, now that R. J. Hay, Jr., has published a neat book offering an up-close-and-personal, you-are-there account of 54 different nights spent at Studio 54. Sure, we’ve all seen the highly publicized photos—Bianca Jagger strutting around on white horseback—but what was is it like to actually be there? The grand moments immortalized by famous photographers have long sustained the untouchable aura of the club—but in its formidable, intimate way, Hay’s 54 Nights gives us a director’s-seat view inside and behind the scenes. Featuring images he shot inside Studio 54 on only one roll of Ektachrome film, Hay’s photos offer a true, almost gritty feel of the glamour. Other treasures include the tidbits of life inside: 144 QUEST

copious notes memorializing the playlists, the dress codes, the Studio “friendships” that consisted of exchanged looks, not words: “We said little to one another. But there was no need to. ‘Conversation’ at Studio was visual and visceral, rather than verbal.” This book, indeed, is like a visceral witness to the magic of a nightspot that hasn’t been replicated since it closed its doors. You can feel it from the moment the author first gets past the door: “At the rear of the short entryway, a stylish Asian woman uttered a sultry ‘Welcome’. . . . Then we looked up and saw it: a high, domed ceiling, with a collection of theatrical lights that was unlike anything that we’d ever witnessed. . . . At this point, we’d been inside Studio 54 for less than an hour. Our minds were still racing. But one thing was already clear: we were thoroughly immersed.” u

F RO M 5 4 N I G H TS BY R . J . H AY, J R .

54 NIGHTS OF SOLID-GOLD FUN

PREVIEW DAY

OCTOBER 26 (INVITATION ONLY) GENERAL ADMISSION

OCTOBER 27–31

THE OPENING NIGHT TO BENEFIT THE SOCIETY OF MEMORIAL SLOAN KETTERING FRIDAY, OCTOBER 26 5–8PM SNAPSHOT

FOR GENERAL ADMISSION TICKETS: tefaf.com

FOR BENEFIT TICKETS: 54 NIGHTS OF +1 212 639 7972 SOLID-GOLD FUN society.mskcc.org/tefaf IS THERE ANYTHING left to say that hasn’t already been written about one of New York’s—and the world’s—most famous nightclubs of all time? Perhaps there is, now that R. J. Hay, Jr., has published a neat book offering an up-close-and-personal, you-are-there account of 54 different nights spent at Studio 54. Sure, we’ve all seen the highly publicized photos—Bianca Jagger strutting around on white horseback—but what was is it like to actually be there? The grand moments immortalized by famous photographers have long sustained the untouchable aura of the club—but in its formidable, intimate way, Hay’s 54 Nights gives us a director’s-seat view inside and behind the scenes. Featuring images he shot inside Studio 54 on only one roll of Ektachrome film, Hay’s photos offer a true, almost gritty feel of the glamour. Other treasures include the tidbits of life inside:

F RO M 5 4 N I G H TS BY R . J . H AY, J R .

Image courtesy of Antonacci Lapiccirella Fine Art

PARK AVENUE ARMORY

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#tefaf2018

9/28/18 7:22 PM