Quest September 2013

$5.00 SEPTEMBER 2013

FALL FASHION ISSUE

AMANDA BECK IN RALPH LAUREN AT BRYANT PARK

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CONTENTS 106

FALL FASHION I SSUE 94

AMANDA BECKONING

From Harvard to humanitarian non-profits, Amanda Beck has

pursued a professional path of public-mindedness. Here, at the Art Deco–inspired Chatwal Hotel, Amanda channels her inner Audrey—and proves herself a truly model citizen.

PRODUCED, STYLED, AND WRITTEN BY

106

ART & SOLE

DANIEL CAPPELLO, PHOTOGRAPHED BY JULIE SKARRATT

Featuring over a thousand shoes, Art & Sole (Harper Design)

is an artistic journey through Jane Weitzman’s career. BY ALEX R. TRAVERS

110

LITTLE DRESS, BIG IMPACT

André Leon Talley curates “Little Black Dress,”

an exhibit about the sartorial staple.

114

RUNWAY TROT

118

A LEGACY RESTORED

BY

LILY HOAGLAND

Ralph Lauren stages a show for the mini set. BY DANIEL CAPPELLO Tony Viramontes’ bold and assured fashion illustrations

not only captured the ’80s—they helped define the decade. BY DANIEL CAPPELLO

128

PURVEYOR OF STYLE

Percy Steinhart, the man behind Stubbs & Wootton, tells

us about a special project: his clutches.

132

J’ADORE GLAMOUR

BY

ALEX R. TRAVERS

Dior Glamour by Mark Shaw (Rizzoli), soon to be released,

takes us back to a high moment of haute couture.

BY

ELIZABETH QUINN BROWN

118

148

48

70

70

CONTENTS 76

C OLUMNS

76

32

SOCIAL DIARY

66

SOCIAL CALENDAR

70

HARRY BENSON

72

OBSERVATIONS

74

OPEN HOUSE

A home at 5 East 93rd Street provides a remembrance of things past.

76

FRESH FINDS

Get fashionably fit for fall.

84

CANTEENS

86

ART

88

JEWELRY

146

APPEARANCES

148

YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST

152

SNAPSHOT

The warm months herald plenty of fine fêtes.

BY

DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA

September events that will ease the transition from summer to fall.

Backstage moment with Kate Moss, at a Vivienne Westwood show in Paris.

The “me, me, me, and only me” generation.

BY

BY

DANIEL CAPPELLO

TAKI THEODORACOPULOS

AND

ELIZABETH MEIGHER

Caviar toasts and new takes on sushi at Chez Sardine. BY DANIEL CAPPELLO

The case of a valuable trade that went bad, and its lessons.

BY

Designer Jennifer Meyer has become the “it” girl of gold.

JUDITH L. PEARSON BY

DANIEL CAPPELLO

A trip to Sun Valley, Idaho, by way of London, England.

BY

HILARY GEARY

Revving up for Fashion Week. BY E LIZABETH QUINN BROWN

Our fashion issue takes a bow with some favorite designers. BY ALEX R. TRAVERS

questmag.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA C R E AT I V E D I R EC TO R

JAMES STOFFEL EXECUTIVE EDITOR

LILY HOAGLAND FA SHION DIRECTOR

DANIEL CAPPELLO ART DIRECTOR

VALERIA FOX A S S O C I AT E E D I TO R

ELIZABETH QUINN BROWN SOCIET Y EDITOR

HILARY GEARY A SSI STANT EDITOR

ALEX TRAVERS CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

HARRY BENSON DARRELL HARTMAN BILL HUSTED MICHAEL THOMAS JAMES MACGUIRE ELIZABETH MEIGHER LIZ SMITH TAKI THEODORACOPULOS CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

DREW ALTIZER HARRY BENSON LUCIEN CAPEHART PHOTOGRAPHY JEANNE CHISHOLM MIMI RITZEN CRAWFORD JACK DEUTSCH BILLY FARRELL MARY HILLIARD CUTTY MCGILL PATRICK MCMULLAN JOE SCHILDHORN JULIE SKARRATT ANNIE WATT

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Click, click: Our team of editors and stylists taking pictures with their phones, posting our photo shoot on Instagram (left); the vanguard of old-school Fashion Week photography, Bill Cunningham (right).

THE WORLD OF FASHION can seem to take itself a little too

seriously sometimes. I mean, they’re just clothes, right?

But then you see pieces that take your breath away. Collections that are works of art. A dress that belongs in a museum. And you reconsider why this industry is full of brilliant and creative perfectionists. The devil might have once worn Prada, but you’d better believe that she’s keeping up-to-date with the best of the best this season. After all, fashion can be as tumultuous, fickle, and subtle as any foreign affairs, as anyone from Louis XVI’s court could have told you. The nuances of this milieu are just as tricky to navigate, which is why we offer our Fall Fashion Issue as a handy compass.

At the helm of this endeavor is our own brilliant and creative perfectionist, Daniel Cappello. He pulled together an array of the best looks from Carolina Herrera, Valentino, and others for our September cover shoot. The result is a story of stunning images that make the case that fashion can be as inspiring a visual medium as any other. It’s hard to flip through these spreads without appreciating the fine eye for detail that creates such beauty in composition, whoever the beholder might be.

Daniel also looks to the past and future to tell a complete story of where fashion has been and where it is headed. With the illustrations of Tony Viramontes, we remember that technology did not always afford immediate access to every new sartorial season and that people used to rely on—gasp!—sketches to get an idea of what trends designers were sending down the catwalk. Then 30 QUEST

we see what the youngest crop of Ralph Lauren fans will be wearing with the precocious petites of bold-faced names walking down a hay-strewn runway. Here, the word “sashay” takes on its double meaning: both the exaggerated strut that models use and the square-dancing steps associated with a stable hoedown.

As I write this, invitations to New York Fashion Week sit in my inbox, many unanswered. When considering a show on a Friday afternoon, the temptation might be to pass and instead spend time enjoying the fall weather outdoors. But then I think about the amazing spectacle of the clothing, the frantic buzz that surrounds each show, and the incredible effort that goes into creating these ephemeral moments (as well as the fact that the weather hasn’t been so great anyway), and reconsider. After all, every nobleman clamored to get to court for a reason. X

Lily Hoagland

ON THE COVER: Amanda Beck in a Ralph Lauren Collection dress, the Fabergé Romanov Gemfields Zambian Emerald Necklace, Asprey diamond earrings and tourmaline ring, and diamond Mauboussin bracelet and ring. Part of “Amanda Beckoning,” produced

by Daniel Cappello, photographed by Julie Skarratt.

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NEW YORK

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A

David Patrick Columbia

NEW YORK SOCIAL DIARY AUGUST IS the sleepiest month in New York, because social life in the city in generally quieter. Somebody recently told me that August 11 is the happiest day of the year. It has something to do with the light, so the human race is at its happiest on that day. (The most depressing day, according to my source, is February 27, in the darkest of winter.)

This past month, August,

was a beauty in New York, weather-wise. Many evacuated the city for the beaches, the lakes, and the mountains, and so those of us who remained were exposed to the best of the city. First of all, there was more room to look around (less people and on the weekends, and cars)—that is, except for midtown, Broadway, and downtown after dark. We had a plethora of lovely days

Queen Victoria, the subject of Serving Victoria by Kate Hubbard, a book that our columnist David Patrick Columbia couldn’t put down.

32 QUEST

and nights, God’s great relief from the oppressive heat and humidity of July.

The movie everyone was rushing off to see was Woody Allen’s Blue Jasmine. I haven’t seen it as of this writing, but I’ve heard both yay and nay about it. And often more nays than yays. Nevertheless, that’s irrelevant. Woody Allen is his own kind of film director: he makes films, one after

the other. Nobody else does that. Nobody. You go to see his films to see what he’s been doing. You find out after you go if you like the most recent one or not. But whether you do like it or not, don’t worry, he’s got another already in the making. His work is like New York itself, always changing.

He is New York. That’s what Woody Allen is.

The play that a lot of peo-

The young queen lived in a world of “unreality” that few can really understand, and her strictly regulated life is still a subject of fascination for many.

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A N A N T U C K E T H I STO R I C A L A S S O C I AT I O N AT B A R T L E T T ’ S FA R M

Eileen Berman and Jay Bauer

ple have been talking about is Buyer and Cellar, a one-man show about a guy who works for Barbra Streisand in her personal so-called mall, which is in her cellar somewhere out there by the Pacific. I haven’t seen this one either. Many of my friends have seen it, and everyone liked it—some even loved it.

Michael Urie plays the employee working for Barbra Streisand, watching over her as she meticulously organizes collections of stuff. One day, he meets the lady. And what happens? Go to the Barrow Street Theatre to find out! I’m laughing just at the thought of everybody laughing at Mr. Urie’s monologue.

“Bah-bruh” first became fa34 QUEST

Mary and Marvin Davidson

Nicole Limbocker and Polly Espy

Peter Nash, Peggy and Bill Tramposch, Elizabeth and Geoff Verney and Westy Saltonstall

mous only a few blocks from where the play is being performed in the Village, where she began as a kind of hippedup, vintage-garbed diva with a voice and chutzpah. She made people laugh, her voice made people soar. And it all took her into the stratosphere of Broadway and Hollywood. Now, the next generation is seeing on a New York stage what came of all that, 50 years later.

Summertime, when the calendar lets up and I have more time for reading. Some think I read a lot because I’m always talking about it or writing about it, but I’m a relatively slow reader and have bursts and ebbs of concentration over the course of one sitting.

I look ahead to see how long a

chapter is. Then I tell myself, as if I were a child, to finish the chapter before I close the book. By that time, I’m ready to read the next.

I saw an article on the Web about a nine-year-old kid who entered a library reading contest upstate and read 63 books in a month. That’s, like, two a day. The librarian was not happy. She thought the kid’s speed was ruining the contest, making it impossible for other kids to win, therefore encouraging them to give up and read nothing. A “winning” reader?

Reading is its own reward.

Some readers of the article commented that the kid was reading below his reading level and therefore pulling it off easily. In other words, the

Ann Quick

nine-year-old was working it.

Another wrote that it was possible to achieve as he, himself, had once read 600 pages in two hours.

I was awestruck by the latter. It takes me days to read a book and probably a couple of weeks or more for 600 pages.

Although I could imagine an enthusiastic little boy (or girl) with the right frame of mind, imagination, and emotional clarity being able to race through children’s stories.

On the other hand, I could also imagine a clever little boy being in on the game in some way too. We get started very early in terms of our way of thinking about life.

I’ve liked reading books since I was a kid of eight or

C U T T Y M CG I LL

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A S C R E E N I N G O F B AT T L E FO R T H E E L E P H A N TS AT G U I L D H A L L I N E A ST H A M P TO N

Lauren Ezersky, Deborah Hughes, Declan Slonim and Jeff Slonim

10, going to the library on Saturday mornings. The library was quiet, serene, and clean.

Peace was there for this boy— solace, a word I didn’t know but, nevertheless, recognized by feeling—in the library.

One of the books I finished last month was Serving Victoria by Kate Hubbard. It’s about those who served the Queen in her royal household, both Downstairs and Upstairs, as well as about the Queen, herself. (You see, all life was about her.) It wasn’t a compelling read in that you didn’t wonder what was going to happen next. You could tell that her actual day-to-day life was deadly dull. Yet I couldn’t 36 QUEST

put it down.

She was a strange figure to behold: so remote, so somber in her frivolousness, yet often very likeable. Despite her congenital selfishness and self-centeredness, she genuinely liked people, and often took them, no matter who they were, on their own terms.

Because of that, she was able to listen—if you could get her ear. Getting her ear was the hard part because she was barricaded by protocol.

There were many times when she was wise and admirable, including occasions when she was forced to submit to those who wouldn’t go along with her thoughts and wishes in

Michele Gradin and Liz Kelly

Elise Boeger and Claudia Parks

government matters.

But she could be easily deluded when it came to those whose affections she favored.

She loved to eat, but she had terrible indigestion, not surprisingly. She loved her tea—the tradition—and despite her intake, it did not spoil her dinner. When she was at Balmoral for her annual “vacation,” which went for a couple of months or more, she received four times a week from her confectionary at Windsor: one box of biscuits, one box of drop tablets, one box of pralines, 16 chocolate sponges, 12 plain sponges, 16 fondant biscuits, one box of wafers, one and a half dozen

Katherine and Krista Krieger

flat-finger biscuits, one sponge cake, one princess cake, and one rice cake. Think of it: that’s times four for each and every seven-day period.

She had help of course in consuming this vast, sugary quarry, but Victoria was generous with herself, by habit.

When she was in her mid-70s and not getting any thinner, the same order applied and the Queen continued to help herself and her large appetite.

This was a rather plain, basically uneducated woman who lived all of her life in castles and palaces, surrounded and waited on by hundreds.

She came to the throne at 18, sheltered, unprepared, and

A N N I E WAT T

John Heminway, Davina Dobie, Donna Karan and David Koch

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A unknowing. Fortunately, she had the temperament for the job or, I suppose, the role. She was held in highest esteem and recognized for great political power by millions all over the world. After all, the only one above the sovereign was God. This was at the height of the Empire over which “the sun never set.”

But Victoria was really just a woman living in a peculiar atmosphere of the “self” at the center-of-world power.

For any single individual, man or woman, it must have been a bizarre reality. It speaks again and again to how strange being royal is, and how unreal.

Even today. There is always a political power of some sort,

make no mistake, but she was not prepared for anything but the privilege.

She, however, deferred to her adored husband, Prince Albert, and had several children by him. When he died suddenly in his early forties, she mourned him for the rest of her long life.

After he died, she owned her power exclusively, which was something that was clear to anyone who came into contact with her. Most people communicated with her through a third person. You can see how easy it is for an individual in her position to fall into a habit of such a mode of communication. Confrontations were almost impossi-

ble, and so was “persuasion.”

Therefore, all discussions and forms of influence were limited, requiring everyone to be clear about the messages they would bring her.

She hated London, thinking it dirty and noisy. She avoided it as much as possible. She spent the majority of her long life away and unavailable to most, except by specific appointment. In modern terms, it’s referred to as isolating oneself. Victoria was a champ at it.

Even so, she had a lot of company at all times, night and day. Her doctor, who had his own rooms in the castles, visited at least three times a day. Her ladies-in-waiting were present whenever and

wherever she went. They were there to keep her company if nothing else, although there were often more responsibilities when it came to keeping Her Majesty comfortable and happy. Her maids-in-waiting had to be there when she frequently awoke in the middle of the night. Their lives were never alone when she was around. Attention had to be paid. More than one of them had a nervous breakdown.

When her doctor finally became engaged to marry at 50, she was outraged. She thought for him to marry was selfish on his part. It took months to bring her around to reality— being that the man had a right to a life of his own—and to get

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her approval. Once there, she was fine.

She could briefly put aside the child who wanted everything her way but, more often than not, she expected complete devotion and attention from those who “served” her.

For me, it was stunning to learn that the doctor never actually saw her body unclothed in all of the decades that he served her until she died.

She wasn’t charming, although there was something charming about her behavior.

The part of the book where her adored Munshi, her personal Indian servant who had spent years abusing his power, had to be discharged serves as 40 QUEST

Laura Frerer-Schmidt and Michele Promaulayko

Fred DeVito and Kim Kiernan

an excellent document of the vagaries of personal political power in the presence of another kind of power, the power to attract.

Victoria was crazy about this particular member of her household. She studied Hindustani daily with him, and spent hours alone with him.

In his youth he was very handsome, as he was at a late age; Victoria was dazzled by the male animal. There were rumors that she and Munshi had a “thing” going on.

True or not, it is immaterial to the drama; she was crazy about him. To him, she dispensed power. Whereupon the prime minister might have

Lauren Bush Lauren and Sharon Bush

Tessa Howard and Claire Stephens

to go through a third person to speak to Her Majesty, Munshi said what he thought to her face all the time. And not all of it was pleasant. There were even shouting matches (behind closed doors, of course) with the old girl, Empress of India.

As Victoria got older, Munshi’s power and misuse of it became more and more of a problem for the household, and then the government. He could lie and steal, and he did, yet no amount of complaints against him could sway her complete trust. Finally, after he contracted a severe case of gonorrhea, which was treated by her doctor, did she—albe-

Renee Appelle

it very reluctantly—begin to listen. But Munshi held on almost to the end of her life.

The same was true with a previous man in her life after Albert, John Brown.

A Scotsman with a foreign temperament (as far as the Queen was concerned), Brown started out as one of Prince Albert’s gillies (a hunting and fishing guide) at Balmoral. Then, after Albert’s death, Brown was promoted to be the Queen’s “special servant,” with ponyleading duties. He is described in the book as “tall, powerfully built, firm-jawed, and blue-eyed.” He made the Queen “feel safe” with

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his “strong arm.”

He was brusque, disregarded etiquette, and was fearless and loyal. After Albert died, Brown took over the role of male protector to the damsel in distress. He had his say with the Queen and didn’t have a problem letting her know when he disagreed. Apparently, Victoria hungered for opposition while at the same time disallowing such behavior from staff and servants, and even her children, to whom she always played Queen.

Brown was more than a “faithful servant” and a “good friend.” He and the Queen slept in adjoining rooms. She commissioned 42 QUEST

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William Lauder and Martha Stewart

several portraits of him with her and, after his death, she had a life-size statue of him erected on the grounds of Balmoral. After she died, her son Edward VII, who hated Brown like many others in the court and household, had the statue removed to a place out of sight behind a cottage on the grounds of the castle.

In many ways, she never grew up. The inexperienced 18-year-old who came to the throne of the most powerful nation of the 19th century grew more powerful as her reign progressed because of the Industrial Revolution.

She learned about wielding political power from that pe-

Richard and Lisa Perry

Aerin Lauder

Samantha Mollett

culiarly unrealistic but nevertheless very real position of “majesty.” She also remained her childish self and was habitually willful in her conduct with almost everyone around her except her men: Albert, Brown, and then the scandalous, nefarious Munshi. All of these men possessed a power she could not resist: the power of sex.

Now, while all of this reading was going on here in Manhattan, out in the Hamptons the social calendar was jammed with private parties, public parties, fund-raisers, fun-raisers, and rock ’n‘ roll.

On one Saturday, the Breast Cancer Research

Andrew and Sandi Farkas

Foundation hosted its second annual “Paddle and Party for Pink,” raising $1.2 million for research aimed at prevention and a cure for breast cancer.

The two-part fundraiser began with an official World Paddle Association stand-up paddleboard race in Sag Harbor followed by a party at sunset at the waterfront estate of Lisa and Richard Perry. For the second consecutive year, the Perrys joined Hamptons residents Maria and Larry Baum as event co-chairs with special guests that included legendary surfer Laird Hamilton and his wife, Gabrielle Reece, who is a former professional volleyball player, fash-

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

Matt Lauer, Gabrielle Reece and Laird Hamilton

F O R R E S E R VAT I O N S P L E A S E C A L L 1. 8 8 8.5.C H AT WA L U T H E C H AT WA L N Y.C O M T H E C H AT WA L N E W Y O R K U T H E L A M B S C L U B U R E D D O O R S PA 13 0 W E S T 4 4T H S T R E E T, N E W Y O R K , N Y 10 036

D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A ion model, and author.

At the event, about 150 paddle boarders, including Edie Falco, Maria Baum, and Richard Perry, raced alongside Laird Hamilton at Havens Beach. Baum, founder of the event and owner of Hamptons restaurant Tutto Il Giorno, was diagnosed with breast cancer in 2011. She credits paddleboarding with enabling her to cope through her diagnosis, treatment, and subsequent recovery.

The party drew more than 50 supporters, including host committee members Aerin Lauder, William Lauder, Donna Karan, Benjamin Bram, Amy Butte and David Liebowitz, Gary Cohn and Lis

Pevaroff-Cohn, Thom Filicia, Lisa and David Klein, Kinga Lampert, Josh and Jennifer Neren, and Bippy and Jackie Siegal.

Other notable guests included Matt Lauer, Aida Torturro, Simon Doonan, Jonathan Adler, Hilary Rhoda, Lloyd Blankfein, Mark Teixeira, and Jon and Mindy Gray.

Sponsors included Goldman Sachs Gives, Leviev, Lisa Perry, American Eurocopter, Bay Street Advisors, Dom Pérignon, Edmiston, Knol, and Gotham Jets.

Moving on: as everyone who reads the papers knows, Hill and Bill have been churning up the potato patches in Sagaponack. One day, they took

the opportunity to raise a few rubles for their Bill, Hillary and Chelsea Clinton Foundation, which may or may not be part of the Clinton Global Initiative.

Ron Perelman and Mort Zuckerman, among others, threw a party for them at Topping Rose, the restaurant that was already white-hot and impossible to get into. The big Dems were all there: Alan and Susan Patricof, Marc Lasry, Robert Zimmerman, Joel Klein, Ann Tennebaum, Michael Kempner, Donna Karan, Barbaralee Diamonstein-Spielvogel, and Liz Robbins and Doug Johnson, who had fêted the Clintons the night before. Not a word men-

tioned about Hillary’s possible run... All in good time.

The party of the summer was hosted on a Saturday night by Ron Perelman who opened the gates of his estate, The Creeks, for the third summer to benefit the Apollo Theater in Harlem. Marcus Samuelson cooked, Questlove spinned. The Roots was the house band—and that’s just for starters! Jamie Foxx and Pharrell Williams were joined by Colin Powell on stage for the chorus of “Get Lucky” after they sang “Blurred Lines”—the song of the summer and the biggest generation uniter, moving moguls like Henry Kravis, Ron Lauder, and Dick Par-

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sons. Katie Holmes jived her way onstage, joined by Ellen DeGeneres. Mary-Kate Olsen snuggled on Oliver Sarkozy’s lap. Also, Ciara sang, followed by the energetic Bon Jovi and Darlene Love. Lenny Kravitz belted “American Woman,” and the American women swooned. Billy Joel and Mary J .Blige didn’t sing, but didn’t have to. Angelica Houston mingled with Harvey Weinstein and Don Johnson. They raised over $3 million and, in my book, they earned every penny.

Governor Andrew Cuomo, a longtime visitor and summer resident, also held a fundraiser while the funds were flowing 46 QUEST

Justine MacFee, Matthew Heinrich and Lindsey MacFee

Model girls make their way down the runway

and had his own shindig on a Sunday night with Bon Jovi entertaining.

The Friday before, Eric Schmidt of Google was given a book party in Southampton.

Birthdays were also celebrated: Ben Bradlee’s 92nd was toasted by Barbara Walters, Carl Bernstein, Charlie Rose, and a few other real journos (and real friends). Gigi and Avie Mortimer reportedly celebrated their anniversary.

Kathy and Rick Hilton had their annual dinner. By the way, they are rumored to be the consummate hosts, and the Glorious Food menu was the best of the summer.

Then there were the sum-

Oscar de la Renta and Dede Wilsey

Genta Luddy, Jamie Zerber and Jessica Hickingbotham

mer weekend jocks, staging a ball game for the fans and for charity. It was the East Hampton Artists and Writers Softball Game. But this was not just any old softball game!

The annual game was started around 1948 when some local East Hampton artists organized a casual pickup game on a summer afternoon. Back then, artists and writers summered (and many wintered) in the Hamptons because living was cheap, land was cheap, and it was a 10- or 15-minute ride from East to Southampton (that is, if you had a car).

Today, the “sports” event celebrates its 65th anniversary and has become one of the

premier summer events in the Hamptons. Nowadays, if you can get from South to East Hampton in under an hour, you must be flying by chopper.

The roster of former participants of this game in the past several years is quirky yet impressive: President Bill Clinton, Supreme Court Justice Stephen Breyer, George Plimpton, Alec Baldwin, Roy Scheider, Paul Simon, Christie Brinkley, Jackson Pollock, Mort Zuckerman, and Kurt Vonnegut, to name just a few.

This year’s game drew thousands to watch writers such as Carl Bernstein, Jay McInerny, Mort Zuckerman, Walter Isaacson, and Mike Lupica

D R E W A LT I Z E R

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Art by renowned illustrator Alex Nabaum.

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A play against artists such as Ed Hollander and Eric Ernst and actors such as Josh Charles and Lori Singer. Umpiring this year was Matt Lauer and New York City Police Commissioner Ray Kelly. President Bill Clinton made an appearance for the second year in a row.

Ken Auletta, the longtime captain of the writer’s team stated: “We mock how the other side cheats. We act like winning is all that matters.

Winning does matter. But so does the camaraderie forged over many games and many after-game beers.”

Apparently, since Jackson Pollack and Willem de Kooning started this tradition with their pick-up games, the art-

ist’s team has thinned—few of them can afford to live out in the Hamptons now. Skywriters and autobody painters were recruited as “artists” alongside John Alexander and Eric Fischl. This year, filmmaker Jamie Patricoff (son of Alan Patricoff), won M.V.P. and swung the pendulum back to the artists, 8–6. Lori Singer boasted the uniform best, a “sit-down” with Mort Zuckerman was auctioned off— maybe to a single lady? Ken Auletta managed his team, including his stalwart, Jay McInerney, and everyone left a little dusty, some a little defeated, but all very happy that they raised over $100,000 for several worthwhile East End

organizations.

With the support of corporate sponsors and deep pockets donors, the game benefited Phoenix House, East End Hospice, East Hampton Day Care, and The Retreat.

That same day, at night, there was the first annual Bow Wow Meow Party at the Animal Rescue Fund adoption center in Wainscott. The organization recsues over one thousand animals every year.

They also have a four-star rating on CharityNavigator. org, which is impressive and something we should all hope for when it comes to other non-profits.

Lisa McCarthy, president of the Animal Rescue Fund, wel-

comed the 400 animal lovers before turning the emceeing over to Dick Cavett. When he announced it was time for the Adoptive Animal Parade to begin, animal lovers took a breath. White wine and animal worship are a dangerous combination when a dozen great little creatures stream past you with “Take me home!” streaming from their eyes. A mere raising of one’s own paw will unite you.

Two did get adopted, by people who proved they could provide a good home. Beth Ostrosky, a fervent animal protector, took the stage, urging people to adopt, explaining that Howard couldn’t be there because he was kitten

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Kelly Klein and Gabby Karan 48 QUEST

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A sitting for the eight that they were foster parents for.

Beth, flanked by two magnificent bulldogs from a puppy mill, presented the Animal Champion Award to Bernadette Peters, whose Broadway Barks benefits 30 animal organizations, including the Animal Rescue Fund. (She had visited the organization and its inhabitants earlier that day.)

Christopher Mason proved his animal love by running the auction.

That same night was the 17th annual Loves Heals party to benefit the Alison Gertz Foundation for AIDS Education. (You remember that Alison Gertz was an AIDS activist who contracted AIDS from

a bartender at Studio 54 when she was 16 after only one, fatal encounter.)

After she died, her best pals, including Dini von Mueffling, vowed to continue her work and Love Heals was born. The party was a celebration, especially when Dini announced that they had passed the 600,000-person mark of the number teenagers educated

by Love Heals. The theme, “Let’s Misbehave” (safely, of course) saluted the Gatsby era. Carol Gertz (Alison’s mom) wore her grandmother’s flapper dress, beautifully. Her 101-year-old mother had spent the day stitching beads back onto it.

Nicole Ruffino slithered

in a black fringe number, and co-chair Bibhu Mohapatra dressed chairs Dini, Gigi Stone, and Alina Cho in his fabulous frocks. Marla Maples (who looked more beautiful than ever) was there with her daughter, Tiffany Trump. The family is moving back East because Tiffany’s is attending U. Penn.

Newscaster Chris Wragge was dapper in a white Gatsby-esque jacket. Arden Wohl was edgy and glam as always. Kelly Bensimon was there with her daughter, Sea. Eric Villency was with some new, pretty girlfriend. All of this against the backdrop of Wölffer Estate Vineyard’s rows of grape vines—quite

something to behold.

It was sold-out, at a cozy crowd of 200, raising over $195,000.

Joey Wölffer (the late, beloved Christian Wölffer’s enterprising daughter) raised some money herself from her strategically parked boutique truck, which was impossible to miss on your way in or out.

From the vineyard, guests headed over to Vito Schnabel’s small summer party given with three of his pals at their fab rental house on the ocean in Southampton.

Hundreds of little lights twinkled above, and big bean-bag chairs surrounded the dance floor. Three bars quenched the thirst of a

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Bernadette Peters and Beth Ostrosky 50 QUEST

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mostly young, and uber-glam crowd as an army of servers passed macaroni-and-cheese bites and mini hamburgers to the crowd, made ravenous by fevered dancing to one of the best DJs of the summer.

The older guests were impressed by what a flawless evening the four young men threw. Vito’s beautiful mom, Jacqueline, was there with her beau, Alain. So were Amanda Hearst and Nicky Hilton, who circulated through the sea of revelers, including Tall Bruce, the tall and lanky member of the the Bruce High Quality Foundation, which Vito supports.

Social History: Early last 52 QUEST

Katrina Cary and Jill Maney

David and Anita Christy

Cathleen Edidin with Peyton and Luca Carter

month, the season saw the 55th annual Southampton Hospital Gala, one of the great traditions of the summer season. This year, the evening was chaired by Audrey Gruss and Jean Shafiroff, both in dazzling aqua dresses, greeting guests to the evening’s theme: Forward the Future. Chuck Scarborough emceed. Southampton Hospital president Bob Chaloner spoke, as did Jean. Then, Alex Donner and his orchestra entertained and kept the dancers dancing.

Among the guests were Robert Wilson with Victoria Wyman, Hilary and Wilbur Ross, Jamee and Peter Gregory, Gillian Miniter, John

Anton, Somers Farkas, Robert Zimmerman, Kathy and Rick Hilton, Marianna and George Kauffman, Debbie Bancroft, Christopher Mason, Jean Remmel Little, Lise and Michael Evans, the Zoullas clan, B. Michael, Felicia Taylor, Margo and Jimmy Nederlander, Darcy and George Gould, and many others, all of whom were grateful that the Southampton Hospital exists.

It’s the only major medical facility in Suffolk County. The evening raised $1.7 million for the hospital.

They were also celebrating the groundbreaking that week for the Southampton Hospital’s new Audrey and Martin

Allison and Keyes Edgar

Gruss Heart and Stroke Center. The occasion honored the Grusses for their gift of $5 million for the new facility, which will provide stroke treatment and carotid stents as needed and will consolidate a broad spectrum of new and sophisticated diagnostic and treatment capabilities with the hospital’s existing cardiovascular programs and services.

Audrey, who is president of their foundation, reminded everyone, “The over-50 age group has the highest probability of experiencing a stroke or heart attack. With many of us spending months or weekends year-round in Southampton and the East

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A End, Martin and I felt it was important that our local hospital have the capability to conduct stroke and vascular distress intervention.”

Meanwhile, up in Newport, the great resort of the Gilded Age (and now a quiet village compared the Hamptons), there was the Summer Venetian Masked Ball, presented by the Preservation Society of Newport County of Rhode Island. The event took place at The Elms, the former estate of coal baron Edward Berwind, which was designed by Horace Trumbauer and completed in 1901.

More than 650 guests attended, many wearing creative masks of all styles upon arriving at the mansion’s front entrance, greeted by the Living Statues, who were costumed in Venetian-style clothing. From there, they proceeded to an elegant champagne reception held in the entrance gallery, dining room, and terraces that open to the gardens below.

Dinner was then served in an elaborately decorated tent, followed by dancing to the fabulous Bob Hardwick Sound.

The ball celebrated the return of the largest complete set of 18th-century Venetian

paintings in America to their original home at The Elms.

The great French interior decorator of the Gilded Age, Jules Allard, designed the room in 1901 around the paintings, which depict dramatically a prominent Venetian family’s military heroism.

A half century ago, the paintings were auctioned off as the house was being prepared for demolition. The collection consisted of 10 paintings. The four largest (two in the entrance foyer and two in the dining room) remained at The Elms after the 1962 auction of its collection

while six smaller canvases were sold in 2004.

Barbara Chapman, Alice Ross, Angela Fischer, and Katie Hamilton chaired the event. The Preservation Society had raised the funds needed to purchase four of the six paintings and, recently, a new round of negotiations with funds donated by Preservation Society supporters succeeded in securing the other two. The Preservation Society purchased The Elms in 1962 and opened the house to the public. In 1996, it was designated a National Historic Landmark. X

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PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

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+ %/*+0"/" /,(0.,/0 - /*0,. -%0.''/((0+)0.0%/(- *.+/%0 .(+&/0 )**)&&#0 - / +,/."0 4 $#(-'-.*0!$)0!-&&0 ,) -%/ ') *(/& 0.% -'/0.*%0%-,/'+-)*0+)0) +.-*0+$/0 /(+0'.,/0. .-&. &/0 .(0!/&&0.(0 .'-&-+.+/0')"" *-'.+-)*0!-+$0)+$/,0 $#(-'-.*(0.*% ."-&#0"/" /,( 0 $/#0!-&&0$. /0 0.''/(( 0!-+$) +0.*0 .*(!/,-* 0(/, -'/ 0*)0".++/,0!$/,/0+$/#0.,/0-*0+$/0!),&% 00 ) ,0'$-&% (0 .(+&/0 )**)&&#0 - / +,/."0 40 $#(-'-.*0!-&&0 $. /0.''/((0+)0+$/-,0/*',# +/% 0!/ .(/%0 /,()*.&0"/%-'.& ,/'),%( 00

.(+&/0 )**)&&#0 - / +,/."0 4 (02 + %/*+0 )+.&01,)+/'+-)*3 ,) ,."0'.*0')**/'+0#) ,0 ."-&#0!-+$0 .'-&-+-/(0.*%0 $#(-'-.*( !),&% !-%/0-*0+$/0/ /*+0) 0.0"/%-'.&0/"/, /*'# 0 +-&- -* 0.0 ,/&.+-)*($- 0!-+$0 *+/,*.+-)*.&0 0.0&/.%-* 0 ,) -%/,0) 0 ',/%/*+-.&/%0 $#(-'-.*(0.*%0 .'-&-+-/( 0.*%0+$/0%.+. .(/0) 0 .(+&/0 )**)&&#0 /%-'.&0 +% 0#) ,0'$-&% (0 .(+&/0 )**)&&# - / +,/."0 4 $#(-'-.*0!-&&0$. /0+$/0,/() ,'/(0+)0-%/*+- #0 .*%0.((-(+0-*0.''/((-* 0+$/0 /(+0'.,/0 ),0#) ,0'$-&%0.(0+$/#0 +,. /&0.!.#0 ,)"0$)"/ 0*/.,0),0 .,

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Kay and John McEnroe

Tom Kent and Elisabeth Haveles 60 QUEST

Lydia Touzet and Jocelyn Woolworth

Debbie Bancroft and Leslie Klotz

Agnes Gund and Dorothy Lichtenstein

Stacey and Matthew Bronfman

Melody Douros and Claudia Avendano

Nicole Miller, Kim Taipale and Lauren Roberts

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PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

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D AV I D PAT R I C K C O L U M B I A P E R L M A N M U S I C P R O G R A M ’ S “ A TA S T E O F S H E LT E R I S L A N D ”

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Harry Benson, Franklin and Emmy Haney and Gigi Benson 62 QUEST

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Christina and Aaron Kilberg

Ran and Christine Blank

Thomas Skilken and Susan Lloyd

Barbara Goldsmithand Robert Caro

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Kristen Hiller and Carissa Ashman 64 QUEST

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Ann Barry and Michael Oliver

D R E W A LT I Z E R

Mary Christensen and Amy Kirby

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CALENDAR

SEPTEMBER

On October 7, the Frick Collection will hold its annual Autumn Dinner honoring Michel David-Weill, an extraordinary philanthropist, collector, and longtime friend of the Frick. The highly anticipated evening, which begins at 7 p.m. at the museum, will be a magical experience celebrating one of America’s finest institutions. Proceeds will support the Frick Collection. For more information, call 212.547.6866.

FAMILY FÊTE

The Saratoga Race Course will host its kid-friendly Family Fun Fest event at the racecourse at noon. For more information, call 518.584.6200.

POLO PONIES

Saratoga Polo will hold its SPA Anniversary Cup Tournament at

Whitney Field at 5 p.m. For more information, call 518.584.8108.

6

CHEERS!

The Saratoga Food and Wine Festival and Concours d’Elegance will join forces at 108 Avenue of the Pine, in Saratoga Springs, to host the annual Food and Wine

Festival starting at noon. The festival is a three-day destination event. For more information, call 518.584.9330.

12

SUMMERTIME CLASSIC

Mangrove Group Young Leaders will host its kick-off event at Nick and Johnnie’s in Palm Beach at 6 p.m. Each year, the young friends organization that supports the efforts of the Hanley Center hosts a memorable event not to be missed. For more information, call 561.213.8192.

TOASTING TRADITION

On September 26, the Eric Carle Museum of Picture Book Art will celebrate its tenth anniversary at Guastavino’s in New York at the eighth annual gala and auction, the Carle Honors. For more information, call 413.658.1118.

66 QUEST

Neighbors and friends will toast Fort Tyron Park with delicious wines and drinks at the beautiful Heather Gardens in New York at 7 p.m. For more information, call 212.795.1388.

18

A RARE GLIMPSE

The Merchant’s House Museum in New York will celebrate fall with cocktails and hors d’oeuvres in the 19th-century walled garden of the museum at 7 p.m. For more information, call 212.777.1089.

19

UNDERWATER FUN

The YWCA Greenwich will hold its ninth annual Greenwich Aquatic Hall of Fame to honor outstanding swimmers, divers, water polo players, coaches, and volunteers whose accomplishments have enriched the lives of many who live in the community. The event will take place at the Hyatt regency Hotel in Greenwich at 11:30 a.m. For more information, call 203.869.6501.

CO U RTE S Y O F T H E F R I C K CO LLE C T I O N

1

CALENDAR

SEPTEMBER p.m. Sports legends, celebrities, philanthropic heroes, and corporate leaders will come out in force in support of the NFL Hall of Fame linebacker Nick Buoniconti and his son, Marc Buoniconti.

The celebration, held each year at the Waldorf=Astoria, benefits the Buoniconti Fund to cure paralysis and raise funds to support the ground-breaking spinal cord injury research done by the researchers at the Miami Project to cure paralysis. For more information, call 305.243.4656.

OCTOBER 2

SUPPORT THE ARTS

On September 20, the eighth annual Newport Mansions Wine and Food Festival of the Preservation Society will take place at the Elms, Rosecliff, and Marble House. The event will continue through September 22 and feature special guest chefs Alex Guarnaschelli and Michel Richard. For more information, call 408.847.1000.

20

STATELY ESTATES

The eighth annual Newport Mansions Wine and Food Festival of the Preservation Society will take place at the Elms, Rosecliff, and Marble House from September 20 through the 22nd.

The event will feature special guest chefs Alex Guarnaschelli of T.V.’s “Iron Chef” and James Beard Award Winner Michel Richard. For more information, call 401.847.1000.

SHAKEN, NOT STIRRED

The Boys and Girls Club of Greenwich will host its annual benefit “From Greenwich With Love” at the Boys and Girls Club at 6:30 p.m. Patrons and sponsors off this James Bond– themed event will help sustain the wonderful programs it offers each child, such as tutoring, SAT preparation, computer training, swimming, hockey, art classes, and much more. For more information, call 203.869.3224.

of his advocacy in the legal community for civil and human rights issues Proceeds will benefit the Alliance for Justice. For more information, call 202.822.6070.

PICTURE BOOK

The eighth annual Carle Honors will celebrate the 10th anniversary of the Eric Carle Museum of Picture Book Art at Guastavino’s in New York at 6 p.m. The benefit will pay tribute to the talented people and organizations that have made the picture book such a vibrant and impactful art form in America, as well as those who have championed its vital role in supporting art appreciation, early literacy, and critical thinking. For more information, call 413.658.1118.

betes and to improve the lives of all people affected by diabetes.

The walk encourages individuals, families, and organizations that want to become involved in the community and help change the future of diabetes. For more information, call 800.342.2383.

30

TACKLING PARALYSIS

The Buoniconti Fund’s 28th annual Great Sports Legends Dinner at the Waldorf=Astoria at 5:30

Cloud Gate 2 will take place at The Joyce, with performances running from October 2–6 at 7:30 p.m. each night. “Talent and skill require little translation…Cloud Gate 2 has those virtues, and… they should be shared with the rest of the world,” declares The New York Times about this fascinating company, who performs Associate Artistic Director Cheng Tsun-lung’s On The Road, in which light and shadow merge with a rich and inventive movement vocabulary distilled from various forms of Asian body language. Set to scores ranging from Taiwanese folk songs to traditional Naxi, to Islamic music, and finally to Tom Waits’ smoky voice, the evening-length piece unites Eastern and Western tradition to convey a powerful artistic message. For more information, call 212.489.8300.

7

OLD MASTERS

The Junior Council of American Ballet Theatre will host its first annual Junior Turnout fundraiser at the Crosby Street Hotel in SoHo at 8 p.m. For more information, call 212.477.3030.

The Frick Collection will hold its annual autumn dinner at the museum at 7 p.m. This year’s black-tie event will honor Michel David-Weill, an extraordinary philanthropist, collector and longtime friend of the Frick. For more information, call 212.547.6866.

JUSTIC FOR ONE AND ALL

WALK FOR A CAUSE

The Alliance for Justice gala dinner, in honor of Bob Pennoyer, will take place at the Metropolitan Club of New York at 6 p.m. A brilliant lawyer, with a distinguished legal career, Robert M. Pennoyer will be presented the Champion of Justice Award in recognition

The American Diabetes Association will host its StepOut: Walk to Stop Diabetes event at North Cover in Battery Park City at 8 a.m. StepOut is a fundraising walk that raises awareness about diabetes, as well as much needed funds to prevent and cure dia-

8

26

68 QUEST

RELEVÉ

ALL THAT JAZZ

On September 18, the Merchant’s House Museum will celebrate fall at 7 p.m. For more information, call 212.77.1089.

New York-Presbyterian/Weill Cornell Medical Center will host its cabaret at the Waldorf=Astoria at 6:30 p.m. There will be a special performance by John Pizzarelli Quartet. For more information, call 877.26.7245.

H A R RY B E N S O N

IT SEEMS LIKE YESTERDAY WHILE PHOTOGRAPHING THE couture collections in Paris in 1993, more was going on with the tense buildup backstage than out front in the audience as the show went on.

It goes without saying that I like to photograph behind the scenes. I always have. Studio pictures bore me, but that is only my personal opinion. Others may disagree. Backstage: the designer frenetically pulling everything together, hoping for a confirmation of genius and the adoration of the audience at the end of the show—and fearing the opposite; the models frantically preparing to walk out and face the press; the retail executives; and the couture customers. Backstage, there is a tenseness in the air and a collective spirit that is electric, real, and unmanufactured. It’s like it’s the first night of a Broadway show, everyone pulling together, everyone with his or her job to do, hoping it will be a smash yet worried that it may not be. X 70 QUEST

Kate Moss, backstage at a Vivienne Westwood show in Paris, 1993.

TA K I

THE “ME, ME, ME” GENERATION

The author believes that our culture is more self-involved than Narcissus, the subject of J.W. Waterhouse’s “Echo and Narcissus” (1903).

CICERO WAS A WISE human being who wrote that a man with a garden and a library has all he needs. He also said that only a man without a brain tweets.

(Well, he would have said it, were he around today.) The Oxford philosopher John Gray, a man I used to get drunk with until he gave up the sauce, insists that the pursuit of distraction has now been embraced as the meaning of life.

Gray knows what he’s talking about. In his latest book, The Silence of Animals, 72 QUEST

he portrays man as a desperate creature who twists and turns to avoid acknowledging that he, too, is an animal. The ancient Greek philosopher Taki calls people who tweet and spend their time on Facebook the closest thing to sub-humans. Cicero, John Gray, Taki—three great thinkers known for their silences and, speaking only for the latter, not owning a mobile.

Yes, dear Quest readers, one can no longer read a news report online without

one hundred bilious and moronic comments following it. Everyone today has become a commentator, parading his or her idiotic and illiterate musings for the world to see and read. It seems that shame is a word no longer understood by the great unwashed—and even some of those who shower daily. A British reporter recently broadcast the actual recording of his vasectomy over the Web. What a pity his father didn’t have one before this particular slob came on board.

TA K I About 30 years ago, the great Tom Wolfe christened those awful yuppies the “me” generation. It has gotten much worse since. It is now the “me, me, me, me, me, and only me” generation. No one seems to be able to live without an audience, a paroxysm of narcissism with the Net as its Valhalla. And what rubbish it is. People will post anything that pops into their Paris Hilton–like heads, the more banal the better. I have never understood what tweeting is; all I know is had Dante been around when it was invented, he would have sent the inventor to the tenth circle of hell for even greater punishment. Disguising their emptiness and ignorance with impudence, 21st-cen-

navel-gazing culture of narcissism that would have made even poor Narcissus blush. The shrillness of the comments by persons unknown is typical of the cowardice of the posters. One man in Britain threatened to kill a woman who led the campaign to have Jane Austen’s image on a 10 pound note, but when the woman traced him, he apologized and begged her not to reveal his name. Well, she did, and his picture appeared in the newspapers and he looked like the biggest wimp I’d ever seen in my rather long life. But he sure sounded tough while tweeting.

I regularly receive emails from individuals I’ve never heard of who wish to be my “friend” on Facebook, whatev-

tongue-tied and unable to express the simplest of thoughts: “like, like, ah, like, you know, ah.” And it’s just as well. Confessions and self-absorption are unpleasant things, so the more inarticulate the great American public becomes, the better off the rest of us are. The ceaseless, unchecked sharing of opinions online is the logical endgame of a society no longer ashamed of anything. The slovenly emotionalism of Oprah has replaced privacy, good taste, reticence, and other such restraints people of my generation grew up with.

Plus, another thing: I count myself lucky not to have to answer a telephone whenever some blabbermouth wants to talk. I can’t think of anything more intrusive than a ringing while sitting

From left: Jane Austen, whose appearance on the 10-pound note has incited controversy; author Tom Wolfe; and Mark Zuckerberg. Inset: Twitter’s logo.

tury Hemingways pose and preen on the screen, filling up cyberspace with rubbish. And don’t get me started on Facebook, whose concept has been explained to me by my son and daughter.

Leave it to one of the world’s great slobs to steal the idea from two WASPy brothers and make the world an even lousier place than it is.

The urge to blab and spill one’s innermost secrets to strangers is more than weird—it’s sickening. It springs from a

er that means. They remind me of people who go to orgies, something I don’t indulge in, though I’m hardly a prude. I am told that millions are made by hackers who advertise their products on peoples’ Facebooks, mostly porn stuff and drugs.

Zuckerberg could put a stop to it but he’s so greedy he won’t. It’s called freedom of speech. Some speech. No one knows any more what’s real and what’s bogus.

Young people growing up tweeting at one another will, of course, remain

down to lunch or, dare I say it, in the midst of love making.

Personally, I only use the Net to file my copy and receive emails. Nothing more. I buy books in bookstores, use a travel agent to book my flights, and don’t advertise my moods or movements for the world to know. Throw away your contraptions, Quest readers; you have nothing to lose but lots of useless invective. X For more Taki, visit takimag.com.

SEPTEMBER 2013 73

OPEN HOUSE

This page: The parlors of 5 East 93rd Street feature multiple fireplaces; the façade of the Upper East Side townhouse, with a garden-level entry to a bedroom and half bathroom.

CARNEGIE HILL IS KNOWN for its quiet, tree-lined blocks

with a blend of original mansions and restored 19th-century townhouses, many with original detail still intact. The historic East 93rd Street was home to some of New York’s most successful inhabitants, including George F. Baker, who lived at 67 East 93rd Street. (The Baker Compound, an extraordinary example of neoFederal architecture, was located at at 75 East 93rd Street.) Opposite, at 56 East 93rd Street, is the former William and Florence Baker Lowe mansion, designed by Walker & Gillette in 1931.

A row of five townhouses along the north side of East 93rd Street—collectively known as the Renaissance Revival Row—was completed in 1892 by the prolific architectural firm A.B. Ogden & Son for developer Walter Reid. Created for single-family occupancy, the façades of 1, 3, 5, 7, and 11 East 93rd Street contain unique Romanesque Revival elements that make each residence distinctive from its neighbor.

Deemed the most elegant of all is 5 East 93rd Street, featuring a splayed front stoop with railings, carved newel posts, and molded arched windows on the third floor. The bowed façade of 74 Q U E S T

the building offers Fifth Avenue and Central Park views, as well as exceptional southern light. Rarely is a house available that has been so meticulously restored but with the original detail intact.

With a parlor-floor vestibule, the grand entry of 5 East 93rd Street leads to an elegant main stair and the front and rear parlors feature original fireplaces. The formal dining room also includes an original fireplace as well as original wainscoting, access to the elevator, and a door leading to the service stair and pantry.

On the garden level of 5 East 93rd Street, via an entrance below the stoop, is a large private bedroom with a half bathroom and decorative coal fireplace. The gracious kitchen recalls the turn-of-the-century origins of the house with its Garland range, enormous sink spaces, windows onto the garden, center island and original tile walls. The elegantly landscaped garden features a high wall, numerous seating areas, and a bucolic setting created by the tall trees surrounding. X For more information, contact Paula del Nunzio of Brown Harris Stevens at 212.906.9207 or pdelnunzio@bhsusa.com.

CO U RTE S Y O F B RO W N H A R R I S S TE V E N S

A REMEMBRANCE OF THINGS PAST

T H E N E X T S T E P R E A LT Y

TAKING THE NEXT STEP WITH CELERIE KEMBLE Here, Quest debuts a column with The Next Step Realty, guiding twentysomethings as they move to—and shake in—New York City.

This month, Celerie Kemble’s team at Kemble Interiors offers advice about decorating your first apartment:

1 2 3 4

CO U RTE S Y O F K E M B LE I N TE R I O R S

5

6 7 8

Instead of pictures, frame vintage wallpaper—or, for the big bucks, wallpaper your apartment.

Nothing makes a bigger change.

Swing-arm wall sconces with cord covers add light and style.

Paint! With a little sweat, you can always return your walls to the original color when you move.

Daybeds make pretty sofas, doubling as a place for your family and friends to crash.

A bright and colorful rug and a sisal or natural fabric on throw pillows can make any solid-color seating into a story with the addition of something that looks artsy!

9 10 11 12 13 14

White slipcovers can be bleached.

Plants reinvigorate any home— big or small—by bringing life to the space.

Closet doors take up a lot of space. A shower curtain can “close” the closet, allowing you to use more of the room.

15

The pieces of furniture to invest in are “bunching” coffee tables, an étagère, and a bedside lamp (vintage works best).

Coffee-table books that reflect your interests or a quality candle on a tray have the ability to spruce up any surface.

A skirted table can hide a T.V. when you’re entertaining.

Stackable glasses are a must for kitchens.

Change the hardware in your bathroom and kitchen—to personalize the feel of your home.

Plywood from Home Depot covered in fabric makes for an attractive headboard or pelmets for your windows.

Look for art at websites like www.20x200.com or www.at60inches.com. You can also make your own by uploading your Instagrams to www.uplo.com, which frames your favorite pictures for you.

QUEST

Fresh Finds

Pull it all together and connect the dots with Kate Spade’s black and white polarized Brenna sunglasses. $158. Kate Spade: Available at solsticesunglasses.com.

BY DA N I E L C A P P E L LO AND ELIZABETH MEIGHER

SEPTEMBER STARTS OFF with Mercedes-

Benz Fashion Week here in New York, and what better way to kick-start the season than with an infusion of style?

There’s no greater time than fall for a fashion renaissance, whether you’re sporting in the country or dressing up for the charity circuit in the city.

And with everything from lace to tweeds, polka dots to pumps, we couldn’t resist these latest must-haves for him and her.

Too cute for school: the black and white polka dot silk clutch from Emporio Armani. $1,195. Giorgio Armani: 760 Madison Ave., 212.988.9191.

Paola When stepping out, be sure to show off with Stuart Weitzman’s Privacy black velvet heel. $495. Stuart Weitzman: Available at www.stuartweitzman.com.

Quadretti’s black reliefcut velvet sheath dress is luxuriously constructed and super flattering. $1,695.

Paola Quadretti: 111 East 61st St., 212.355.4440.

76 QUEST

“THE GIRLS’ LEADERSHIP PROGRAM AT THE ELEANOR ROOSEVELT LEADERSHIP CENTER IS OFTEN A TURNING POINT IN THE LIVES OF YOUNG WOMEN. THE GIVING BACK FOUNDATION IS THRILLED TO SUPPORT THIS WORTHWHILE ENDEAVOR.” —MEERA GANDHI, CEO AND FOUNDER, THE GIVING BACK FOUNDATION

OPAL SAMIHA G WATE I DANDA D ARIAK N A G IN K ARIELLE

LEXI KENNAR D

CONGRATULATIONS TO THE FOUR 2013 WINNERS OF THE SECOND ANNUAL MEERA GANDHI GIVING BACK AWARDS HELD AT THE GIRLS’ LEADERSHIP WORLDWIDE PROGRAM AT THE ELEANOR ROOSEVELT LEADERSHIP CENTER, VAL KILL, HYDE PARK NEW YORK. THE FOUR YOUNG LADIES RECEIVED GIVING BACK TROPHIES AND HONORARIUMS. GIRLS FROM THE UNITED STATES AND 13 INTERNATIONAL COUNTRIES PARTICIPATED.

PLEASE VISIT

Fresh Finds

If you can’t whisk her away to Venice, wow her instead with Paloma’s Venezia Goldoni necklace in 18-kt. gold and diamonds by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co.

Evenings on the town

$25,000. Tiffany & Co.: At tiffany.com.

are a snap with Jimmy Choo’s Cloud clutch in gold mirror leather and black lace. $1,695.

Jimmy Choo: At select Jimmy Choo stores, 877.955.2466,

This red floral tweed cocktail dress

or jimmychoo.com.

from CH Carolina Herrera will carry you through all of autumn’s events. $615. CH Carolina Herrera: 230 N. Rodeo Dr.,

Getting a leg up is made even

Beverly Hills, 310.276.8900.

more glamorous in this black suede caged-heel sandal. $999. Ralph Lauren Collection: At select Ralph Lauren stores and ralphlauren.com.

Housed in brilliant pots of highimpact pigment, NARS Eye Paints (in various shades) can be used as both an eyeshadow and eyeliner. $25. NARS: 413 Bleecker St. or narscosmetics.com.

To everything there is a season, especially in Cindy Chao’s Four Seasons Collection floral earrings. Price upon request.

Cindy Chao: At cindychao.com.

78 QUEST

EAST HAMPTON FURTHER LANE FARM On nearly 5 fabulous acres on one of the premiere roads in East Hamptonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s estate area, is this hidden gem. 17,000 sq. ft. of living space, no detail has been overlooked in bringing this luxury, cutting edge home to life. Featuring 10 bedrooms, 13.5 baths, this residence has picturesque views over a 45 acre reserve. Interior is beautifully detailed with hand-milled woodworking. Amenities include butlerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pantry with bar area, enclosed porch with radiant heated floors, media room, gym, and master suite with office, sitting room, fireplace, powder room, marble bathroom, and balcony. Outside you will find sunken tennis court, basketball court, heated gunite pool, open air pool house, and BBQ area. web#32324. Exclusive. $35,000,000

TRUST WHERE YOU INVEST. INVEST IN WHO YOU TRUST. JOHN HEALEY 631.774.8672 johnhealey@1TownandCountry.com HamptonsHomesOnline.com

Owned and Operated by Town & Country Real Estate of the East End LLC

Fresh Finds Confidence comes easily with

For all of fall’s adventures,

this crewneck pullover in wool

pick up and go with

and cashmere and straight narrow

Longchamp’s Safari

trousers in technical cotton

bag in navy

gabardine from Hermès,

and brown. $540.

available at Hermès

Longchamp: At

Madison Men,

longchamp.com.

690 Madison Ave., 212.308.3585.

This season, go for camo and stay on trend in Perry Ellis’s long-sleeve cotton camo V-neck sweater. $89.50.

Perry Ellis: Available at perryellis.com.

It’s all in the details with this Victoire chair by Lalique Maison, in black lacquer and ivory silk. $21,000. Lalique Maison: 609 Madison Ave., 212.355.6550.

Make every drive a luxurious one in Autodromo’s Man up in Belstaff’s Roadmaster jacket ($850), Penlan sweater ($2,495), Somerton shirt ($295), Blackrod jean ($495), and Shafton boots ($1,395).

Belstaff: 814 Madison Ave., 212.897.1880.

80 QUEST

Stringback Driving Gloves, with drum-dyed genuine leather palm and 100% cotton crochet back. $110. Autodromo: At autodromo.com.

Ginnel Location3

Magazine on your iPad

Visit the Apple App Store or ginnel.com/location3 to download

North Salem Farm - Thirteen breathtaking acres backing up to North Salem open land foundation. Impressive 6200 square foot home with twelve foot ceilings, rich in architectural detail. Wraparound porch with magnificent views of gardens and rushing stream. Grand Evergreens, Cherry, Birch, Sycamore and Magnolia trees adorn the property. Room for horses and accessible to North Salem Bridle Trails. Two Bedroom Guest House, Pool with Spa. Pool/ Guest House with Two Bedrooms. Artist/Writer’s Studio. $3,850,000

Sophisticated Modern Estate -

Absolutely stunning Myron Goldfinger design. Stunning 8200 square feet of exceptional living space. Fabulous light, curved interior and exterior walls, high ceilings and walls of windows with clerestories. Dramatic Living Room. Sleek Varenna Kitchen. First Floor Master Suite. Five additional Bedrooms.

Over four Chappaqua estate acres with Shoreline Swimming Pool. Tennis Court. Generator. Smart House technology. $3,995,000

Highwood House - Impressive Stone Mansion from the golden Six Columns - Sophisticated Country House imbued with southern age. Corinthian columns, incredible stone exterior, slate roof and cast stone balustrades usher in the past. Incredible 15000 square feet of richly detailed living space with herringbone floors, ornate moldings and artistic plaster. Completely renovated and updated for today’s modern lifestyle. Two estate acres with salt water Pool. Garages for seven cars. A remarkable opportunity! $2,995,000

style. Beautifully scaled rooms with fine appointments-gleaming hardwood floors, wide crown moldings, pocket doors and custom built-ins. Fabulous Front Porch. Two Story Entrance Hall. Living Room with Fireplace. Formal Dining Room Fireplace. Country Kitchen. Screened Porch. First Floor Master Suite. Guest Suite. Three additional Bedrooms. Bonus Room with Bath. Recreation Room. Over four private, peaceful acres. $2,200,000

Dramatic Converted Barn -

Keeler Hill Estate- An absolutely breathtaking setting with scenic views of the North Salem countryside. Seven pastoral acres with rolling lawns and meadows.

Refined Country House with beautifully-scaled rooms with great ceiling height and wide moldings. Sun-filled Living Room with Fireplace and French doors to Library with Fireplace. Elegant Dining Room. Country Kitchen. Family Room with Fireplace. Master Suite with His and Her Baths. Pool. $1,675,000

Impressive spaces with incredible finishes. Vaulted ceilings, exposed beams, wide plank floors and plaster walls.

Fabulous Great Room with Fireplace, 17’ ceiling and built-ins. Magazinefeatured Kitchen with open Dining Area. Sunken Family Room with Fireplace.

Four Bedrooms. Rear terrace with Fireplace and outdoor Kitchen. Private Pool.

Beautiful grounds on prestigious Chappaqua cul-de-sac. $1,850,000

(914) 234-9234

493 BEDFORD CENTER RD, BEDFORD HILLS, NY SPECIALIZING IN THE UNUSUAL FOR OVER 60 YEARS

WWW.GINNEL.COM

Fresh Finds Heaven-sent: Judith Murat’s Celestial Voyage necklace in amethyst, green tourmaline, kunzite, and lemon citrine. $35,000. Judith Murat Fine Jewelry: At judithmurat.com.

Don’t let it pass you by: the Passiflora by Kim ring from Wempe in 18-kt. rose gold with amethyst. $3,745.

Wempe: 700 Fifth Ave., 212.397.9000.

Asprey knows how to treat a lady—especially with the Morgan Day Bag in heather and mocha crocodile. $22,500. Asprey: 853 Madison Ave., 212.688.1811, or asprey.com.

We’re sure you’ll love these glass mix earrings, part of J.Crew’s “Looks We Love” color trends for its September Style Guide. $98. J.Crew: At jcrew.com.

Luxe appeal: Dennis Basso’s ombré evergreen caviar beaded gown ($14,000) and chartreuse fox shrug ($6,500). Dennis Basso: 765 Madison Ave., 212.794.4500.

Country strong: La Chasse’s Warrenton jacket in Brewster green wax cotton with leather piping and antique brass snaps. $1,750.

La Chasse: At Punch, 3262 Franklin Ave., Millbrook, N.Y., or Fall prints and plaids aren’t just for jackets and skirts, so why not heel up in these Marzia pumps from Manolo Blahnik? $795.

Manolo Blahnik: Available at Barneys New York, 660 Madison Ave., 212.826.8900.

82 QUEST

lachassemillbrook.com.

ROBERTA.McCAFFREYREALTY Garrison • Cold Spring, NY • 60 Mins NYC

Westchester,Putnam,DutchessMLS

143MainStreet,ColdSpring,NY10516 Tel:845.265.4113•www.mccaffreyrealty.com info@mccaffreyrealty.com

GARRISON, NY - Enjoy the ultimate in condo living in The Castle, well-known landmark high above the Hudson River. This luxurious 2 floor, 2 bedroom unit, one of only seven units in the complex, offers breathtaking views from Bear Mountain Bridge to Newburgh Bay. It has huge open rooms, 12 to 15 foot ceilings, 4 fireplaces, a gourmet kitchen, and sumptuous baths. It also offers outdoor spaces – a covered balcony and a large deck. Comfort is assured with central air conditioning, security and alarm systems, individual heating and hot water system, and generator. The unit also has garaging for 2 cars. Offered at $2,190,000.

Member of Westchester/Putnam, MLS • Mid-Hudson MLS (Dutchess County) Greater Hudson Valley MLS • (Orange, Rockland, Ulster, Sullivan Counties) For more information on these and other listings, many with full brochures and floor plans, visit our website: www.mccaffreyrealty.com

CANTEENS

TEENY, TASTY, TANTALIZING

84 QUEST

nomenclature. “Chez,” of course, is French for “at the home of,” and immediately staff and space make you feel at home.

This is the kind of place where sitting with the bartender feels like catching up with your college roommate. And then there’s the “Sardine,” which, like the fish, stands for a deceptively small yet extremely intricate thing bursting with flavor (not to mention nature’s bounty of omega 3s, calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, zinc, copper, manganese, and B vitamins).

Executive chef Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly was curious about and embracing of Asian cuisine, and Chez Sardine is aptly—if loosely—based on the Japanese izakaya (forgive the comparison, but think Japanese tapas bar). The menu is divided into four basic

C H E Z S A R D I N E / L I T T LE W I S CO

IF HEAVEN EXISTS, then surely a sublime sushi of smoked arctic char on magnificently rounded mounds of spicy rice would be served there. And surely it would be a pleasing place of physical comfort, perhaps even awash in white walls with a sleek sea of walnut-covered everything. If this is an inkling of the afterlife, then a preview might be had at Chez Sardine, one of the latest packed-full-of-charm restaurants by Gabriel Stulman (who brought us Perla, Fedora, Joseph Leonard, Montmartre, et al.).

Chez Sardine is less of an homage to the preparation and serving-up of the tiny fish that is its namesake (though the correlation between the size of the restaurant and the salty sea creature is undeniable), and more of a metaphor to the two words of its

H E N RY H A R G R E AV E S , CO U RT E S Y O F

BY DANIEL CAPPELLO

CANTEENS This page, from above: The dinner menu from Chez Sardine; a view of the restaurant and bar, finished in warm shades of walnut wood. Opposite page: A preparation of salmon head. Chez Sardine: 183 West 10th Street (at West 4th Street), open for dinner Sunday–Wednesday from 5:30 p.m. until 11 p.m., Thursday–Saturday until 1 a.m.; brunch Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. until 2:45 p.m.; 646.360.3705 or chezsardine.com.

categories—Snacks, Sushi Bar, Small Plates, and Large Plates— and there’s seemingly no wrong combination of any and all parts.

The inventive Brunet-Benkritly and his flavor-driven direction mean the menu might change from day to day (literally), but one constant remains fixed: the wildly popular miso-maple salmon head. Plates of sushi arrive like mitigated peace offerings of the ages-old battle in Italian art between disegno and colore, or form and color. Here, they are matched with perfect harmony (like still lifes waiting to be painted) and combine in such tasteful syntheses as chopped scallop, quail egg, and trout roe.

Caviar on buttered toast comes as a reminder that, like foie gras or other joys of life, a measured taste goes a long way. There

isn’t room enough anywhere for the words needed to describe the octopus carpaccio with aioli and tomato gelée, or the beef tartare with mustard oil and horseradish. Or—because one would be remiss to forget them—the maki tempura with crab, avocado, and chipotle mayo and the duck-confit and smoked-cheddar grilled cheese. After a leisurely, senses-stupefying evening in this corner-perched paradise of the West Village, who could even think of dessert? Never mind. With so little room in the kitchen, all that will fit is a frozen-yogurt machine that swirls out perfectly delectable servings with granola sprinkled on top. After all those decisions between unagi and coconut curried clams, you’ll be perfectly happy that this last one is on the house. X SEPTEMBER 2013 85

ART

ART AND COLLECTIBLES: THE PERILS OF 1031 EXCHANGES

BY JUDITH L. PEARSON

WELL-KNOWN ART COLLECTOR and Andy Warhol muse Jane Holzer, also known as “Baby Jane,” sued Stephan Stoyanov and his Manhattan gallery in New York state court for allegedly derailing her like-kind art exchange.

Mr. Stoyanov was engaged to act as Ms. Holzer’s Qualified Intermediary (QI) in a 1031 exchange, and hired to sell two of Ms. Holzer’s contemporary artworks and, with the sales proceeds plus additional cash, buy two Richard Prince works which Ms. Holzer identified as the “replacement artworks.”

However, Mr. Stoyanov did not escrow Ms. Holzer’s funds and the check he wrote to another gallery to buy the replacement works bounced. In short, Mr. Stoyanov failed to complete the replacement part of the exchange.

Like-kind exchanges, known as Section 1031 Internal Revenue Code (IRC) exchanges, allow deferral of federal capital gains tax when investors sell appreciated property and purchase like-kind property of the same or greater value within the defined time period. Exchanges are subject to stringent restrictions outlined with varying degrees of guidance in the IRC including a requirement that the art investor appoint an independent agent to serve as a QI. Experts suggest that 1031 exchanges for art and collectibles is a rapidly growing area of the tax code because of the current high valuations for art and precious objects and the 2013 increase in the capital gains tax; however, to take advantage of

this benefit, taxpayers must follow the strict requirements and tread carefully.

Given the opaque and unregulated nature of both the QI and the art industry, it is also easy to see how the Holzer-Stoyanov 1031 exchange got off track. The Holzer attempted exchange highlights several issues. First, Ms. Holzer transferred title of her relinquished works to Mr. Stoyanov rather than directly to the buyer(s), perhaps to keep her name of the seller confidential. Second, aside from the fact that Mr. Stoyanov did not complete the would-be exchange by allegedly violating the exchange agreement (by selling Ms. Holzer’s relinquished property and bouncing his check for the replacement property), the failed exchange left Ms. Holzer without her artworks or money.

In addition, the type of 1031 involved—a dealer or gallery acting as a QI structure—which by all industry accounts is designed to save sales and use tax, tends to support significant “fees” including document creation, transactional fees and commission to the dealer acting as the QI in the form of “overages,” fees that would otherwise not apply in an industry-standard 1031 transaction.

Although the Holzer-type 1031 structure may be technically within the IRC guidelines, it pushes the boundaries in the following ways:

CO U RTE S Y O F A R I S

This page: Mike Kelley’s 1985 acrylic “Rainbow Coalition,” valued at $240,000,

• Generally QIs take title to the tax interest not title to the exchange and replacement properties.

• Allowing the dealer to keep the price “overage” is very close to commission (as is the $1,500 fee for each sale and purchase) factors which stretch the constraints of the taxpayer-QI agency relationship and put the taxpayer at risk by creating a possibility for a disqualification of the QI. • The gallery or dealer QI does not have a legal structure for separate accounts or third party escrow and puts the taxpayer at risk for gallery malfeasance and bankruptcy.

• In the nine states that regulate QIs, the regulation mandates approved funding, prudent fund management (escrows), and a fidelity bond that

one of the pieces involved in Jane Holzer’s lawsuit. Opposite page: Judith L. Pearson, author of this piece and president of ARIS Title Insurance Corporation.

covers the potential malfeasance of the QI. There are no similar regulatory statutes or insurance requirements for an art dealer or gallery in the opaque art market.

To benefit from like-kind exchanges, art investors such as Ms. Holzer should follow the structural and due diligence standards which investors exhibit when transacting other assets such as real estate to ensure that title passes properly, creates finality to the transaction, and does not jeopardize the tax strategy.

Art 1031 exchanges should be completed with the assistance of knowledgeable, experienced accountants or tax attorneys and professional Qls whose

role is to assure that art exchange transactions are conducted with transactional transparency including closing the art sales in escrow and with title insurance.

The use of title insurance in like-kind exchanges confirms clear legal title of both the relinquished and replacement property ensuring finality of the 1031 tax transaction. Use of the title insurance also substantially supports the IRC requirement that the taxpayer is an art investor, who treats her artworks as financial assets, as opposed to just a collector. X For more information about ARIS Title Insurance Corporation, call 212.563.3600 or visit aristitle.com.

SEPTEMBER 2013 87

J E W E L RY

GOLDEN CHILD

BY DANIEL CAPPELLO

DANIEL CAPPELLO: You often cite your grandmother as a great influence on your life and jewelry line. Can you talk about her?

JENNIFER MEYER: My Grandma Edith, who was one of the loves of my life, taught me at the age of six how to make cloisonné. She had a kiln in her kitchen and I loved nothing more than sitting at her table making pieces with her. I can directly relate my passion for designing jewelry to her.

88 QUEST

DC: What was your breakout moment?

JM: The gorgeous Jennifer Aniston wore my pieces in her movie The Break-Up. I can’t think of a better person to debut my jewelry—and the rest is history.

DC: Does your design aesthetic change and evolve, or do you have one trademark style?

JM: I always lean towards classic pieces that can go effortlessly from day to night. I am always playing with new custom stone cuts and techniques but, at the end of the day, my pieces are designed to be worn and loved and not taken off.

DC: Who’s your typical client? Do you design with a certain kind of woman in mind?

JM: I design for every woman. I am constantly inspired by the mom waiting for her children at school, the working woman who goes from a meeting to the carpool to hopefully a date with her husband.

I see myself in those women and I try to design pieces that can keep up with their busy lifestyles and at the same time make them feel special.

A LL I M A G E S CO U RT E S Y O F J E N N I F E R M E Y E R

BORN AND RAISED in Los Angeles, Jennifer Meyer grew up in the heart of Hollywood, but would eventually leave to enter the fashion industry, where she worked for both Giorgio Armani and Ralph Lauren. Watching these icons, Meyer was inspired to explore the creative side of the business, and in 2005 returned to her lifelong love of jewelry by launching Jennifer Meyer Jewelry. She immediately became an “it” girl of the industry, earning lavish praise from both the press and retailers, as well as a steadfast client following. Last year, she was first runner-up at the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Awards. Here, our fashion director catches up with Meyer to chat about style, inspiration, and the stories jewelry can tell.

J E W E L RY DC: Where does your inspiration come from?

JM: I am a southern California girl, born and raised.

Much of my inspiration comes from there. I am constantly inspired—from the stylish woman walking down the street to a charm necklace my daughter, Ruby, made for me. I always have my eyes open because you never know where inspiration will strike!

DC: Do you have a favorite material, color, or shape?

JM: I have always been an 18-kt. gold girl. All of my pieces, whether they are in yellow, rose, or white gold, are made with this. I also have a soft spot in my heart for lapis. My grandma worked a lot with this stone and every time I do something with it I am reminded of her.

DC: Do you have a “philosophy” about jewelry?

JM: I always say, If you were to look in my jewelry box, I could tell you the story behind every piece that is in there. There are pieces my grandma made, my daughter has made, my husband and father have given me over the years, and the first pieces I made when I started my company. They all have such special and unique meaning. I try to always design with that in mind. I like each piece to have a story.

DC: How would you describe your design process?

JM: I am a firm believer in organically designing. Ideas come to me all the time and we are constantly playing with new techniques, stone colors and cuts, and motifs. I love nothing more than seeing a design come to fruition. It never gets old. X

This page: A presentation of Meyer’s jewelry at Milk Studios during New York Fashion Week, Fall/Winter 2013. Opposite page, above from left to right: Jennifer Meyer 18-kt. yellow gold, opal with diamond surround, and trillion diamond necklace ($6,750); 18-kt. yellow gold and diamond “xo” ring set ($1,990); and 18-kt. yellow gold and turquoise inlay triangle ring with diamond surround ($2,850); the designer Jennifer Meyer (inset).

C U LT U R E

SHEN YUN: A NEW SYMPHONIC EXPERIENCE

© 2 0 1 2 S H E N Y U N P E R F O R M I N G A RTS

Chinese Compositions Meet Western Symphonic Grandeur

00 QUEST

C U LT U R E MANY IN HISTORY have tried but failed: harmonizing Eastern

This spread, clockwise from top: The Shen Yun Symphony Orchestra debut at Carnegie Hall, 2012; the Shen Yun Symphony Orchestra with the plucked pipa and two-stringed erhu; the 2012 debut at Carnegie Hall was a monumental performance.

music with Western music is a daunting task, but one at which the Shen Yun Symphony Orchestra has succeeded. Blending the two distinct sounds on a large scale is nearly impossible because of different pitches of the instruments that each style uses, but Shen Yun has done so—beautifully—since 2006.

“Compliments to the composers that are able to integrate the two kinds of instruments,” said Per Brevig of the Juilliard School after hearing the company perform. “Delightful!”

Shen Yun has graced some of the world’s most renowned stages. Its performances—from Lincoln Center to the Kennedy Center to premier venues in France and Japan—have repeatedly sold out. Recently, the company’s three touring orchestras united for a debut at Carnegie Hall; a performance that garnered three encores. With that success, the Shen Yun Symphony Orchestra is now preparing its first tour of the United States.

With an enchanting new sound, the Shen Yun Symphony Orchestra incorporates ancient Chinese instruments like the two-stringled erhu and the plucked pipa with classical symphonic mainstays, like brass, woodwinds, strings, and percussion. Both of these instruments are deeply rooted in traditional Chinese culture. The erhu is said to have a history of over 4,000 years, while the pipa is often depicted as a heavenly instrument played by celestial maidens in Buddhist cave frescos.

“I am completely enchanted,” said Her Royal Highness Princess Michael of Kent after listening to an erhu solo at the company’s performance in London.

In Shen Yun’s all-original compositions, Chinese instruments bring out the distinct flavor and coloring by playing the melodies. Meanwhile, the Western instruments summon the precision and grandeur of the classical symphony orchestra. This musical genius is the centerpiece of the program. At Carnegie Hall, the Shen Yun Symphony Orchestra will feature the best original works from Shen Yun’s production as well as classical masterpieces, such as Tchaikovsky’s “Polonaise” from Eugene Onegin and Beethoven’s Egmont “Overture.”

The program also features Shen Yun’s tenors and sopranos, acclaimed for singing Chinese lyrics while using bel canto technique. Maintaining Chinese pronunciation with these techniques is highly difficult, but it creates an astounding and wholly unique operatic experience.

The Shen Yun Symphony Orchestra is not only an experience for the senses—it is also a delight for the heart. The repertoire is drawn from 5,000 years of civilization, reviving themes of virtue and courage, finding inspiration in an array of legends, regions, and peoples. Reviving themes and melodies from ancient times, and presenting them to a modern audience in a dynamic and enchanting way is the hallmark of the Shen Yun Symphony Orchestra. In doing so, the company is blazing a new and delightful path. X The Shen Yun Symphony Orchestra will return to Carnegie Hall at 2 p.m. and 8 p.m. on October 5 after beginning its tour of the United States at the Kennedy Center in September. Tickets are available by calling 888.974.3698 or by visiting Symphony.ShenYun.com. For more information, contact Shen Yun Performing Arts at 888.974.3698 or at Symphony.ShenYun.com.

SEPTEMBER 2013 91

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191 MASON STREET . GREENWICH, CONNECTICUT 06830 GREENWICHFINEPROPERTIES.COM . 2 0 3 . 6 6 1 . 9 2 0 0 KATHY ADAMS . JILL BARILE . BERDIE BRADY . BONNIE CAIE . JIM CAMPBELL . LESLIE CARLOTTI . JULIE CHURCH . BARBARA KELLY CIOFFARI . JEFFREY CRUMBINE . MAUREEN CRUMBINE EVANGELA DALI . BLAKE DELANY . CANDY PETERS DURNIAK . SCOTT ELWELL . LEE FLEISCHMAN . JANIE GALBREATH . JANE GOSDEN . MARY ANN GRABEL . SARA HOLDCROFT . SHARON KINNEY MARIANNE SCIPIONE LEPRE . GILA LEWIS . SALLY MALONEY . DEBBIE MCGARRITY . ELLEN MOSHER . LIZ OBERNESSER . FIFI SHERIDAN . LAURIE SMITH . DIANE STEVENS . DOUGLAS STEVENS VICTORIA THORMAN . TYLER TINSWORTH . BEVERLEY TOEPKE . MARGI VORDER BRUEGGE . JOSEPH WILLIAMS . MIHA ZAJEC

On a balcony of the limestone façade of The Chatwal, A Luxury Collection Hotel, Amanda catches our fancy in Carolina Herrera’s ivory silk crêpe gown with black velvet inserts; black suede gloves by Ralph Lauren Collection; Fabergé’s Viera Sky Blue Aquamarine ring and La Lumière d’Été Rubis chandelier earrings; and Van Cleef & Arpels’ Oiseaux de Paradis ring.

AMANDA BECKONING PRODUCED, STYLED, AND WRITTEN BY DANIEL CAPPELLO PHOTOGRAPHED BY JULIE SKARRATT

FROM HER UNDERGRADUATE studies at Harvard to her co-founding of the Iraqi Refugee Assistance Project during law school, at the University of California, Berkley, Amanda Beck’s passions have led her along a professional path of public-mindedness. Her sense of what is right—and her manifest respectability of character—have always informed her endeavors and pursuits, from the articles she’s inked for The New York Times, The Washington Post, The Guardian, and the San Francisco Chronicle to stints in the U.S. Attorney’s Office and the Manhattan District Attorney’s Office, where she helped prepare prosecutions of sexual-assault cases. She has even worked as an assistant producer, on the documentary film The Judge and the General, which follows attorneys and journalists as they build a human-rights case against Augusto Pinochet.

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Her causes outside of work include supporting such organizations as Human Rights Watch, Physicians for Human Rights, American Ballet Theatre, and Reporters Without Borders. With a fulltime career devoted to democratic ends, one effort Amanda never envisioned for herself was that of modeling. But, at Quest, we couldn’t let her fresh, natural beauty pass us by. With alabaster skin freckled by beauty marks, and sharp, picture-perfect features, Amanda’s classic, all-American appeal seemed the perfect fit for our Fall Fashion Issue’s feature cover shoot, set in midtown’s historic landmark Chatwal Hotel. We asked her to try her hand at posing for us in some of our favorite evening looks from the season. The result? Like most everything else she tackles in life, Amanda proved herself a model citizen. X

Amanda is the portrait of a lady in J. Mendel’s fuchsia silk Cady gown; Van Cleef & Arpels’ Folie des Prés earrings and necklace; Cartier’s Trinity de Cartier Ring; Fabergé’s Émotion Saphirs Roses ring; and Asprey’s Daisy Heritage bracelets in diamond and aquamarine. Opposite page: In Oscar de la Renta’s silver silk organza beaded top and skirt; Manolo Blahnik’s Chaos heels; Mauboussin’s diamond Life Step ring and Je Le Veux necklace and bracelet; and moonstone cabochon ring by Kara Ross Precious Jewelry.

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The Chatwal’s historic landmark Stanford White Studio allows room for thought in Dennis Basso’s floral plaid faille gown; Van Cleef & Arpels’ Snowflake earrings and ring and Palmyre six-row diamond necklace; and Kara Ross Precious Jewelry’s triple-stone ring. All beauty styling by Fedor (hair) and Shiko Vun (makeup) for Valery Joseph Salon; manicure and pedicure

by Nelida Markovics for La Prairie at The Ritz-Carlton Spa, Central Park.

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Amanda, during a stroll in nearby Bryant Park, is something to smile at in Ralph Lauren Collection’s green silk tulle evening dress; the Fabergé Romanov Gemfields Zambian Emerald Necklace; Asprey’s drop diamond earrings and Protector ring with green tourmaline; and Mauboussin’s diamond Je Le Veux bracelet and ring. Opposite page: Shimmering in Naeem Khan’s Deco-beaded racer-cut gown; Stuart Weitzman heels; Roberto Coin’s Fantasia Earrings; Mauboussin’s diamond Life Step ring and Éternité Élégance ring with Australian sapphire; and Kara Ross Precious Jewelry link bracelets.

The Chatwal’s lobby mural is the perfect accessory to this black silk tulle evening dress by Ralph Lauren Collection, paired with Asprey’s Daisy Heritage earrings and ring and a black jade and rubellite ring

by Kara Ross Precious Jewelry.

Opposite page: Things are looking up in Valentino’s beige knit dress with lace; Amanda’s family heirloom pearls; Asprey’s Protector earrings and ring in citrine and yellow sapphire; Roberto Coin’s Mauresque bangle, micropavé bangle, and two cognac-diamond bangles; and a triple-stone ring by Kara Ross Precious Jewelry.

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To top it all off, Amanda makes retro glam modern in a black fur coat by Giorgio Armani; Oscar de la Renta’s silver silk organza beaded top; a black shearling hat

by Ralph Lauren Collection; and Asprey’s pavé diamond hoops and Protector ring in rubellite and black diamond. Opposite page: From the roof terrace of The Chatwal’s Producer Suite, midtown is within reach in this J. Mendel moss-printed silk Cady gown; diamond Dentelle Pampille earrings and Socrate ring by Van Cleef & Arpels; and diamond Je Le Veux bracelet and ring by Mauboussin.

Fashion assistant: Alex R. Travers.

Shoot assistant: Alice Rao.

CO U RTE S Y O F J A N E G E R S H O N W E I T Z M A N ; P H OTO G R A P H S BY LU C A S Z A R E B I N S K I

ART & SOLE

BY ALEX R. TRAVERS

Some are surreal, animal shoes made of frosting with David Lynch–like touches; others are minimalistic,

P H OTO C R E D I T G O E S H E R E

with the devil in the details.

THERE’S MAGIC, FUN, and whimsy in

This page: A creation by Linda Lev-

Jane Gershon Weitzman’s Art & Sole, a beautifully bound book that catalogs over a thousand of the shoes she used in her husband Stuart’s eponymous Madison Avenue store windows. (I should mention that all of the profits from book sales at Stuart Weitzman stores in the U.S. for the months of September and October will go to ovarian cancer research and breast cancer research, respectively.) Some are surreal, animal shoes made of frosting with David Lynch–like touches; others are minimalistic, with the devil in the details. But no matter which you favor, Art & Sole is more than a book: It’s a wild ride through Jane Weitzman’s impressive artistic career worth taking.

Weitzman started crafting the window displays in 1995, when the first Stuart Weitzman store opened for business.

For the time, she was doing something rather unusual in the retail world. “One of the things we did that was different is that we usually didn’t put product in the window,” she tells me. “It’s almost unheard of.” When I wonder aloud about

iton, who works in coated and bare copper wire (above); a corrugated cardboard shoe by New York City–based artist Robert Steele (below). Opposite page: A shoe made entirely of flowers by artist Jane Carroll. Carroll has been featured on ABC’s The View and on The Oprah Winfrey Show.

The excitement in her voice starts to build, and I sense that she’s not only reliving this moment, but all the thrills

the moment or particular window display that got her hooked, she mentions her fervor for the arts and how her windows became a de facto art gallery. “I think it was because I liked art,” she tells me. “And also, I thought I could make a difference in an artist’s life because these artists look at it as a show—a New York show.” This is true, and her book has a neat little tool to promote the artists featured within: the index. I mention the work of Katherine Mathisen, an artist featured in Art & Sole who uses hand-sculpted, raku-fired clay to craft Art Nouveau–like shoes with sinuous lines. “I hope people will look her up because of the index, which enables readers to go right to the artists and buy the shoes,” she says. “Isn’t that great? It’s wonderful for the artists.”

I ask Weitzman about an experience that struck a personal chord. “I’ll tell you one experience,” she says almost hesitantly. “I had seen the work of Irene Reed—who crochets—and I asked if she could crochet shoes, and she said she would try. So I gave her an order.” The excitement in her voice starts to build, and I sense that she’s not only reliving this moment, but all the thrills that came with curating these window displays. Weitzman tells me how Reed lived about two hours away from her, so they settled on meeting halfway. “[Reed] started opening the boxes,” she reminisces. “She opened these wonderful crocheted shoes and just put them on the trunk of my car. You know, it was just the most exciting thing because I didn’t know what I was going to be getting—I thought they were wonderful. I met her halfway, and that was it.” X 108 QUEST

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that came with curating these window displays.

This page, clockwise from top left: Firoozeh Bowdenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pieces are constructed of perforated steel, metal mesh, copper, nickel silver, glass, and paint; the cover of Art & Sole; author Jane Gershon Weitzman; another shoe crafted

by Firoozeh Bowden. Opposite page: A shoe by artist Joan McClutchy de Vidargas (above); a boot by Sharon von Senden, who works with crystals.

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This page: A Fall-Winter 2012 silk dinner dress by Marc Jacobs, part of the “Little Black Dress” exhibit in Paris at the Mona Bismarck American Center for art and culture, organized by the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD). Opposite page: Dress by Francisco

© A DA M KU E H L , CO U RT E S Y O F S AVA N N A H CO LLE G E O F A RT A N D D E S I G N ( S C A D ) ; CO U RT E S Y O F R AC H E L F E I N S TE I N , N E W Y O R K

Costa for Calvin Klein Collection.

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LITTLE DRESS, BIG IMPACT B Y L I LY H O A G L A N D

THREE LITTLE WORDS changed the shape of fashion

in 1926, when Vogue revealed the design of a simple but elegant Chanel sheath. Baptized the “little black dress,” it instantly became an iconic staple in every wardrobe.

The concept of the dress was to be effortlessly chic and infinitely versatile, thus attracting a broad spectrum of women, from fashionistas like Audrey Hepburn to the more austere, like Édith Piaf. The Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson, believed that “when the little black dress is right, there is nothing else to wear in its place.” In 2010, the term “LBD” even became a sanctioned abbreviation in the Oxford English Dictionary, definitively cementing its place in popular culture.

A new exhibit created at the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) in Georgia explores the history of this sartorial classic. Currently on view at the Mona Bismarck American Center for art and culture in Paris, “Little Black Dress” is a collection that demonstrates how varied the basic look can be rendered by different designers. Compare the long, flowing arms and liquid silhouette Madame Grès cut from silk crêpe de chine to the ultra-modern and structured zippered version from Azzedine Alaïa—clearly, this form is a blank slate that designers want to reimagine with their own twist each time.

The show was curated by someone whose own initials have become canonized in the fashion world, André Leon Talley. From his apprenticeship under Diana Vreeland to his famed career at Vogue, Talley has lived a life dedicated to appreciating the art and glamour of fashion. His grand

This page: A Comme des Garçons black lace dress for men. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Carolina Herrera’s dress of layered bows; new designer Alexis Asplundh’s sleeveless neoprene dress; a classic Chanel wool dress with silk trim from Fall-Winter 2006; Prabal Gurung’s leather dress from his Fall-Winter 2011 collection.

stature (both figurative and literal, measuring an impressive six foot six) in the social set benefited the exhibit, as he was able to call on good friends like Anna Wintour and Deeda Blair to contribute from their remarkable collections. He also included a piece that garnered recent fame and controversy: the male Comme des Garçons black lace dress that designer Marc Jacobs wore to the 2012 Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute gala over a pair of white boxers.

How did Talley pick the specialized focus of the show? “The zenith of elegance in any woman’s wardrobe is the little black dress, the power of which suggests a dash of refinement,” he explains. “I hope the exhibition will, essentially, express the new vocabulary of the little black dress, as it signals today’s concepts of luxury and modernity.” Undoubtedly, this small article of clothing has a great deal of social and cultural responsibility to shoulder.

Walking through the exhibit is at once glimpsing the grandeur of old couture, like an Yves Saint Laurent ankle-length evening dress, while acknowledging contemporary pieces that already appear timeless. One of the rooms is set up to resemble a group of women sitting at a ball, waiting to be asked to dance, gossiping while looking fabulous. “In every moment my desire was to establish an invisible dialogue or narrative between dresses, showcasing variety and how women thought,”says Talley.

There are perhaps no other single items of clothing that are so consistently described as invaluable or referenced as mandatory to complete a wardrobe. And, to be sure, the dresses in this exhibit, from the simplest of knee-length sleeveless to the more modern and outré, prove Karl Lagerfeld’s adage true: “One is never overdressed or underdressed with a Little Black Dress.” X 112 QUEST

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RUNWAY TROT WHAT DO CHRISTIE BRINKLEY, Tiffani Thiessen, Edie Falco, Ali Wentworth, and Katherine Ross have in common, besides being accomplished (not to mention beautiful) women—on television and the silver screen, leading worldwide luxury houses, penning books, and hosting talk shows? They are also all mothers of beautiful young daughters, each of whom had a seat at the third annual Ralph Lauren Girls Fashion Show, hosted for the first time outside of New York City, at the Wölffer Estate Stables in Sagaponack, New York.

Along with other fellow mini style mavens, the girls of some of our favorite moms had the ultimate front-row experience as Ralph Lauren’s Fall and Holiday Childrenswear looks came trotting down the runway, which was staged inside a magnificently appointed stable—an appropriate backdrop for This page: A look coming down the runway inside the Wölffer Estate Stables featuring a navy wool blazer, white cotton Oxford shirt, khaki jodhpur with suede patches, and black leather boots (above); models backstage with a special guest (below). Opposite page: The singer Madison Beer in Ralph Lauren Childrenswear.

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J O E S C H I L D H O R N / B FA NYC . CO M

BY DANIEL CAPPELLO

at Ralph Lauren’s “Day at the Stables,” held at Wölffer Estate Stables in Sagaponack, New York (above); Christie Brinkley with Ralph Lauren models at the show (below). Opposite page: Looks from Ralph Lauren’s Fall and Holiday 2013 Childrenswear collections, as modeled at the “Day at the Stables” runway show for moms and daughters, available at saks.com and ralphlauren.com.

a Ralph Lauren show, if ever we saw one, especially for this season’s equestrian-inspired girls collection.

Entertaining as fashion may be, little girls just want to have fun, which is why this “Day at the Stables” (as the show was dubbed) included an array of activities for the little ones.

After the show, guests enjoyed a first-ever performance by the recording artist Madison Beer, and were treated to confections from Dylan’s Candy Bar, a nail-painting session at an Essie Nail Art Bar, a couple of turns in a photo booth, and a hairbraiding station, for which girls were lining (and saddling) up.

The actress Jessica Alba, the official host of the day, was heard outside the stables afterward saying how much she loved the mixing of leopard with plaid. “I liked the youthful spirit of being able to mix and match patterns,” she said. “I think it’s so great—and great for girls.” Indeed, the Fall 2013 collection began with a rich combination of colorful iconic clothing perfect for back to school. It was followed by dreamy, romantic florals and classic 1930s men’s wear clothing, modernized for today’s fashionista with a backdrop reminiscent of classic Downton Abbey. The Holiday 2013 looks were imbued with a spirit of rustic Americana, with iconic styles for an idyllic Adirondack holiday. For the uptown girls, the second half of the Holiday styles seemed to sparkle with glittering beading and a luxurious palette of black, cream, and gold.

Of course, this being a fall preview, scarves were hardly scarce. “I love a scarf,” Alba was overheard saying. “Throw a scarf and a denim jacket on anything and I think it makes an outfit.” And there you have it—a little fashion advice, straight from the horse’s mouth. X

J O E S C H I L D H O R N / B FA NYC . CO M ; N E I L R A S M U S / B FA NYC . CO M

This page: Host Jessica Alba and guest performer Madison Beer with models

A LEGACY RESTORED

BY DANIEL CAPPELLO ILLUSTRATIONS BY TONY VIRAMONTES THIS SEPTEMBER, as bloggers flock to the front row at Fashion

Week here in New York, “muploading” images of runway looks snapped by their handheld phones and iPads, and as sites like Style.com stream videos of the shows, the fashion world will have the chance to observe, remember—and honor—another time and era, when the beauty of ateliers’ creations and couture was captured by the pencil and the paintbrush—not the push of a “send” button. More specifically, the beau monde will have a chance to celebrate the bright, beautiful, and baroque work

This page: Tony Viramontes’ 1984 illustration for La Mode en Peinture of a Christian Dior Haute Couture look by Marc Bohan. Opposite page: A 1984 drawing for Italian Vogue of a Valentino dress. Viramontes produced some of Valentino’s most evocative and beautifully observed advertising—his articulate and inimitable line gave the maestro’s frilly, frothy gowns a bold and contemporary new twist.

of the late fashion illustrator Tony Viramontes, whose dreamy, theatrical drawings of iconic couture by the likes of Valentino, Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Dior, among others, came to define the high-fashion ideal of the 1980s.

Now, for the first time since his death in 1988, Viramontes’ visual genius will be on full display in a comprehensive monograph of his oeuvre—Bold, Beautiful, and Damned: The World of 1980s Fashion Illustrator Tony Viramontes (Laurence King Publishing), by the British print dealer Dean Rhys Morgan. The book will be available for sale in September exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman, which is also devoting its windows for the month to the artist’s work. And, for anyone wishing to own a piece of iconic fashion history, 1stdibs.com is offering an exclusive online sale of 25 original Viramontes fashion illustrations and portraits, as well as a dozen of his inthe-moment Polaroids, which offer a rare and intimate snapshot into the high-flying world of ’80s fashion.

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just what the world was waiting for, and anticipating. He got his start in 1979 at The New York Times and was greeted with immediate success. Soon, he was being commissioned by fashion bibles in both the United States and Europe, for the kinds of placements that were normally devoted to photographers. From Lei and Per Lui in Italy to Vogue in the United States, from The Face in Britain to Jill, Marie Claire, and Le Monde in France, editors descended. And so his brilliant—if too brief—career was off to a dazzling start, though it would often (if not always) be overshadowed by his friend and mentor, Antonio Lopez, with whom he shared “a certain street sensibility,” as Rhys Morgan describes it in his introduction to the book.

Apart from editorial, Viramontes also worked on the ad campaigns for the reigning elite in fashion, including Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, Versace, Chanel, Perry Ellis, Claude Montana, and Rochas cosmetics. Jean Paul Gaultier, who contributes the foreword to the book, describes Viramontes as “a shooting star who was able to unite in a single image several diverse elements: photos redrawn or highlighted in marker pen (a genre that he initiated and went on to pioneer), illustration, collage, design, graphics and finally FASHION.” Unlike

This page: An unusually conservative ensemble by Versace is laid down with Viramontesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; signature confidence and brushwork in this drawing for the April 1984 issue of Vanity.

Opposite page: A 1988 portrait of Rene Russo, whose allure and charisma spoke directly to the illustratorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s imagination, and who would come to define the epitome of Viramontesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; ideal female beauty.

This page: Viramontes expertly commands the page in this typically assured drawing of a Chanel Haute Couture look, for Madame Figaroâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 1986 guide to the collections. Opposite page: The hard outlines, bold colors, and overt glamour of Pierre Cardinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s haute couture lent themselves to Viramontesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; pen and paintbrush, as this drawing, for the same guide to the 1986 collections, makes clear.

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This page: Illustration of an off-the-peg suit from the 1983 Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche collection. Saint Laurent’s innovative and rebellious color combinations frequently brought out the best in Viramontes. Opposite page: A 1985 advertisement for the French beauty company Rochas Cosmetics, in which Viramontes employs eye shadows and liners in place of paint and crayons.

many other artists and photographers, according to Gaultier, Viramontes “really loved, adored and worshipped fashion!”

Perhaps this is why his influence and style have, for Gaultier, left their mark not just on the period, but on fashion more generally.

Viramontes was also an exemplary portraitist; among the iconic women he drew were Paloma Picasso, Rene Russo, and Diana Ross. It’s almost as if he had been led to them from his early teens, when he began to cast for and create his own pantheon of female beauty—those whose allure and charisma spoke directly to his imagination.

His striking images are of strong, dominant, aggressive, yet feminine women, and sensuous men, all smoldering and smokyeyed, vibrating with New Wave energy. Tony Viramontes was possessed of great artistic potential, but he died, during the height of the AIDS crisis, in 1988 at the age of only 33. And though we might wonder what could have been had he lived, we’re lucky to have Rhys Morgan, who enthusiastically and undauntedly unearthed and reconstructed the visual Viramontes legacy, which, shimmering brightly to this day, remains a powerful voice from an overpowering moment in fashion history. X

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This page: One of Viramontes’ most recognizable works—a sable-trimmed evening suit by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel Haute Couture originally drawn in 1984 for Prosper Assouline’s La Mode en Peinture—was described in the artist’s diaries, in which he noted how the temperature of the room changed as the model made her entrance. Opposite page: A brigade of Halstonettes model Halston knitwear for Tony Viramontes in 1983. Halston’s clean, fluid style of dressing had become a trademark of the languid jet set and of the denizens of Studio 54.

A custom-made Stubbs & Wootton clutch beautifully accents the table setting at a Preservation Foundation of Palm Beach dinner party. Percy Steinhart, the company’s founder, has been designing clutches for the Preservation and other charities for over 10 years; a velvet slipper with sewer cover embroidery (inset).

PURVEYOR OF

STYLE HERE’S A FACT: Influential people in the fashion world will

PA L M B E AC H ; CO U RTE S Y O F S T U B B S & WO OT TO N

CO U RTE S Y O F T H E P R E S E RVAT I O N F O U N DAT I O N O F

BY ALEX R. TRAVERS

credit Percy Steinhart, the man behind the hand-made slipper and accessory brand Stubbs & Wootton, for bringing the slipper back in style. But it’s his designs—immensely likeable for their eye-catching embroideries and elegant simplicity—that keep Stubbs & Wootton shining.

After years of success with the slippers, Percy began to make a few clutches. Soon after, he was commissioned for a very special project. “We made these clutches, a few of them, without paying much attention,” he tells me over the phone. “Pauline Pitt was running the Preservation [Foundation of Palm Beach] one year, I want to say a good 10 years ago, and she asked, ‘Would you make one with the Preservation logo?’” He delivered, and, at the party, the clutches were given as gifts to the ladies. They were wildly popular (“You start with one thing and it just escalates”) and with time they have also become statement pieces: “You have one because you went to one of the such-and-such parties.”

Percy remembers how quickly Stubbs & Wootton accelerated. “It took off right away,” he says without hesitation when I ask him about the company’s beginnings. He started around Thanksgiving of 1993, with 400 pairs of shoes in an upstairs Palm Beach apartment. By January, he was sold out. “It was uncanny.”

He later tells me that his clutches began as an accessory for a day bag and eventually developed into an evening bag, or a modern minaudière with Stubbs & Wootton DNA. “It was just a little evening bag that used to be in silver or gold, or sometimes precious stones, which had SEPTEMBER 2013 129

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But it’s Percy’s designs—immensely likeable for their eye-catching embroideries and elegant simplicity—that keep Stubbs & Wootton shining. little packages inside for your lipstick and your rouge, and whatever your necessities were for the evening,” he says of the original minaudière. (The minaudière owes its name to Estelle, the wife of Alfred Van Cleef, whose mannerisms—or minauderies—fascinated her entourage.) “My mother,” he remembers, “had minaudières from Boucheron and Cartier.”

Percy was born in Cuba and spent time growing up both there and in Palm Beach. But his initial inspiration for his designs came from two English sporting painters: George Stubbs and John Wootton, both 18th-century artists who were fascinated with animals. “A lot of the original ideas came from running foxes and equestrian things.” Now Percy gets inspiration from everywhere, even the streets. “When you think of something as patrician as a velvet slipper, when you put a sewer cover on it, it makes it very ‘street,’” he says. “In fact, I should make a clutch with a sewer cover on it.” X

This page: Various Stubbs & Wootton clutches from a decade of charity events. The clutches are given as gifts to the ladies. Opposite page: A mélange of Percy Steinhart’s designs—loosely inspired by the minaudière—from a private collection. Many are souvenirs from past Preservation galas.

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Christian Diorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s couture director, photographed by Mark Shaw in 1960. Opposite page: Jungle, Canada, and Amsterdam modeled pieces from the Autumn/Winter 1961 Haute Couture collection.

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This page: Suzanne Luling,

J’ADORE GLAMOUR

P H OTO C R E D I T G O E S H E R E

BY ELIZABETH QUINN BROWN

MARK SHAW, WITH HIS PHOTOGRAPHY for LIFE magazine, captured the 1950s and ’60s, defining European style for American readers. He referred to his work as “snapshots” rather than “photographs,” emphasizing the ease of his approach within the tradition of portraiture. He explained, “The whole point being that it is easier for me to show a person as they really are—either by characteristic gesture, a movement, or a feeling.” Demonstrating an unrehearsed fluidity—an honesty—Dior Glamour by Mark Shaw, Photographs from 1952 to 1962 (Rizzoli) explores the photographer’s work, chronicling his experience with Christian Dior (as well as nodding at his relationship with the Kennedys).

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The story begins with Shaw’s being assigned to Paris, France, in 1952—a witness to the post-war recovery, as experienced through a fashion-colored lens. Dior, with his “crystallized abundance and unprecedented luxury”—a wording courtesy of Pamela Golbin of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris—was, in effect, the belle of the ball, championing a return to glamour as the country regained its joie de vivre.

The photographer was welcomed by the designer to his fashion house to capture everything, including a rehearsal for the Christian Dior Autumn/Winter 1954 Haute Couture collection show and a session with vicomtesse Jacqueline de Ribes (famed for her presence on best-dressed list after best-dressed list) at hôtel particulier in 1959. The mise en scène: Shaw—wearing Brooks Brothers shirts, Sulka ties and sweaters, and J. Press pants—a reallife American in Paris, weaving through confections with his camera as Dior directed, often with his baton.

Shaw embodied the ideal of a photographer. As a photojournalist, he was invited by his subjects, often his friends, to participate on the set, and he was expected to be complimentary, discreet, and respectful. With Dior and beyond, Shaw succeeded, as described by Lee Radziwill: “Mark Shaw was a wonderful photographer because when he took your picture, it was as if there was no camera in the room. He was simply there, joining the company, like a friend at the party. When he photographed me in Dior for LIFE, he made me feel completely relaxed, and even when I had to pose, he made me feel happy and natural.”

The era of 1952 to 1962 called for a sort of sweet beauty—a pretty elegance—to reinvigorate the spirit of the world. Shaw embraced his task of communicating Dior’s message with aplomb, forever capturing this moment of glamour. X 134 QUEST

P H OTO C R E D I T G O E S H E R E

“Mark Shaw was a wonderful photographer because when he took your picture, it was as if there was no camera in the room.”

—Lee Radziwill

P H OTO C R E D I T G O E S H E R E

Sophie Malgat—wife of director Anatole Litvak—photographed by Mark Shaw in 1953 wearing haute couture in the Jardin d’Hiver at Christian Dior’s hôtel particulier on boulevard Jules Sandeau in Paris’s 16th arrondissement.

The Annual Rose Garden Dinner Dance Thursday, September 19, 2013

Pe ggy Roc ke fe l l e r Ro s e G a rd e n

The Board wishes to salute

Dotty and Lionel Goldfrank &

Ellen and Ken Roman for their dedication, friendship, and generosity.

Rose Garden Dinner Dance THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2013 marks the date for the Rose Garden Dinner Dance at The New York Botanical Garden. This annual event features the Botanical Garden’s world-famous Peggy Rockefeller Rose Garden, designed by celebrated landscape architect Beatrix Jones Farrand in 1916, and fully realized in 1988 through a generous gift by Peggy and David Rockefeller. With more than 4,400 roses in over 680 cultivated varieties, the Rockefeller Rose Garden is one of the most spectacular displays at The New York Botanical Garden. Long lauded as one of the most beautiful rose gardens in America, it has been transformed in recent years into one of the most

sustainable public rose gardens in the world.

The Rose Garden Dinner Dance is a celebration of the glorious autumn flowering of the Botanical Garden’s magnificent rose collection. The evening begins with cocktails in the Peggy Rockefeller Rose Garden, followed by an elegant dinner with dancing in the Garden Terrace Room. The event attracts 300 members of the Garden’s extended family, and raises $600,000 to support the maintenance, development, and continued care of one of the world’s premier rose venues.

This evening is being presented by Piaget.

FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT CAROLINE BALKONIS AT 718.817.8773 OR CBALKONIS@NYBG.ORG

2013 Rose Garden Dinner Dance Honorees THE NEW YORK BOTANICAL GARDEN is proud to pay special tribute to Dotty and Lionel Goldfrank and Ellen and Ken Roman in recognition of their steadfast loyalty.

We are grateful for the wonderful friendship of Dotty and Lionel Goldfrank, including Lionel’s 14 years as a Board member, and his service as Chairman of both the Executive and Investment Committees. In addition, the Lionel Goldfrank III Institutional Mapping Department and Computerized Catalog of the Living Collections makes possible the gathering of important topographical information about the Garden’s landscape essential to capital improvements, exhibitions, and collections maintenance, and includes a digital plant database with more than 125,000 entries used for display labels and inventories.

It is also our great privilege to salute Ellen and Ken Roman’s enthusiastic dedication to the Garden, including Ken’s 24 years on the Board, tenure as Vice Chairman of the Board, and services as Chairman of the Annual Fund. Ellen and Ken have been great champions of the Home Gardening Center—NYBG’s inspirational collection of demonstration gardens designed to teach gardeners of all skills levels how to create beautiful, productive, and trouble-free gardens—and established the Kenneth and Ellen Roman Fund in support of its endeavors. We are so pleased to have their continued loyal friendship.

Chair List Guests of Honor

Vice Chairmen

Dotty and Lionel Goldfrank Ellen and Ken Roman

Mr. and Mrs. Richard L. Chilton, Jr. Mrs. Thomas H. Choate J. Barclay Collins and Kristina Durr Courtnay and Terry Daniels Mr. and Mrs. Robert Douglass Patricia and Eric Fast Amy Goldman Fowler and Cary Fowler Joel M. Goldfrank Robert F. Gossett, Jr. Jeanne Jones Sonia and Paul Jones Diane Katzin and Rick Kurnit Jane and Charles Klein Angus and Leslie Littlejohn Janine Luke Susan E. Lynch

Chairmen Jeanie and Harry Burn Memrie Lewis Nonie and John Sullivan Julia and Hans Utsch

Honorary Chairmen Friederike and Jeremy Biggs Mary and Marvin Davidson Anne and Tom Hubbard Eliot and Roly Nolen

Liz and Arthur Martinez Mr. and Mrs. Gilbert C. Maurer Mr. and Mrs. William B. Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Connor Mr. and Mrs. John R. Robinson David Rockefeller Adam R. Rose and Peter R. McQuillan Marjorie and Jeffrey A. Rosen Mrs. Arthur Ross Mr. and Mrs. Charles M. Royce Julie and Nick Sakellariadis Mr. and Mrs. Robert K. Steel Carmen and John Thain Caroline A. Wamsler, Ph.D. Mr. and Mrs. Edward K. Weld Dee and Pug Winokur

List in formation as of August 19

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Rose Garden Dinner Dance

October 1, 2012

1. Roly and Eliot Nolen 2. Maureen and Richard Chilton 3. Nonie and John Sullivan 4. Cary Fowler and Amy Goldman Fowler, Thomas Fowler 5. Deborah and Chuck Royce 6. Memrie Lewis, Julia Utsch 7. Peter and Laurie Grauer 8. John and Carmen Thain 9. Chris and Grace Meigher 10. Jeffrey Jennings, Friederike Biggs 11. Vera Aryeh and Bob Gossett 12. Allison Bourke, Nonie Sullivan, Maureen Chilton, Jeanie Burn, Mary Davidson 13. Joseph Singer and Mish Tworkowski, Jim Kloiber

SALUTES

DOTTY AND LIONEL GOLDFRANK AND

ELLEN AND KEN ROMAN AND

The New York Botanical Garden

APPEARANCES

RULE BRITANNIA

BY HILARY GEARY

This page, clockwise from top left: The entrance to 5 Hertford Street; Philip Martyn, Kate Ford, Bob Nederlander, and Jane Churchill at Bellamy's; William Astor and Lily Marlborough with Karl Wellner, who hosted a dinner with Deborah Norville at 5 Hertford Street.

IN SWEET SUMMERTIME it’s

over the pond for our annual June visit to London. But this time, we dropped our bags and rushed to catch the last performance of The Audience, the big hit starring Academy Award–winning actress Helen Mirren. The play was written by Peter Morgan (who wrote the movie The Queen) and covers 60 years of Queen Elizabeth II’s weekly chats at Buckingham Palace with every prime minister from Winston Churchill to Margaret Thatcher to Tony Blair to David Cameron. Helen Mirren glides from decade to decade and prime minister to prime minister to offer 146 QUEST

a glimpse of the crisis of the moment or some telling gossip. You truly feel as if you are a fly on the wall, eavesdropping as though there was an unspoken agreement never to repeat what was said. You observe the queen morph from a young bride to a grandmother and watch the politicians come and go while she remains regally cool yet compassionate. Among the Americans in the audience were David Ober, CeCe and Lee Black, and Sharon and John Loeb.

The following night, we joined the Loebs at Ken Lo’s Memories of China for a cozy Sunday night dinner with

about a dozen of their pals, including Eva O’Neil, just back from her son Christopher O’Neil’s wedding to Princess Madeleine of Sweden. Next evening, we celebrated Alfred and Judy Taubman’s anniversary at a small festive dinner at the George Club—one of the late Mark Birley’s restaurants now in Richard Caring’s worldwide stable of restaurants and clubs. Tuesday brought a festive ladies lunch hosted by Audrey Gruss at 5 Hertford Street and a fun dinner hosted by Deborah Norville and Karl Wellner, also at 5 Hertford Street. The restaurant is a roaring success, packed

for lunch and dinner with its nightclub, Lulu’s, in the basement rocking too. Most of the guests had been out to Ascot and the buzz was that Joe Allen had had two winning horses—hoo-hah! Wednesday, we lunched at Scott’s with Anne Hearst and Jay McInerney and Deborah Norville and Karl Wellner and, that evening, we headed to Bellamy’s as Sallie Philips and John Mashek gave a dinner. Back to Scott’s, again, for lunch with Charles Spencer-Churchill and Sarah Goodbody.

(You will find Sarah’s terrific designs at sarahgoodbody.com or CJ Laing at 36 Via Mizner in Palm Beach.)

Next stop was back to heavenly Southampton, the shining resort sitting right on the Atlantic dotted with beautiful houses, tall privet hedges, hydran-

house. Joanne and Roberto de Guardiola also celebrated Lally’s birthday in their beautiful house decorated by Architectural Digest star designer Joanne, natch!

The following evening, Lally threw her annual Fourth of July party that people fly in from all over the place to catch up with movers and shakers from the political, literary, business, and social universes. Plus she serves the most wonderful menu from Glorious Food in an exquisite Bronson van Wyck–designed tent lined with striped fabric with six long tables, each with 60 places.

We then headed to the city for a nanosecond and popped into La Grenouille. As you know, they have the most scrumptious fare with the most luscious flowers and the prettiest, soft-

five-day event. This extraordinary week is not to be missed, featuring some of the most fascinating people in the world in attendance. The festivities kicked off with a wagon ride to the Trail Creek Cabin with a great big buffet, music, a “cowboys and Indians” theme. Then, the next morning, off we galloped to all the activities. Each evening was at a different venue and, each morning, we popped on jeans and the good-looking Allen and Company navy vest that was provided for each guest, put on our photo identification tag and headed to a scrumptious buffet breakfast. The panels covered riveting subjects ranging from “What We Need for Economic Growth,” as discussed

by Mike Bloomberg, Muhtar Kent, and Mark Zuckerberg with moderator

This page, from left: Bianca Jagger and Luce Churchill at 5 Hertford Street; Sarah Goodbody and Lord Charles Spencer-Churchill at Scott's.

geas galore, fabulous beaches, spectacular golf courses, and world-class grass tennis courts—truly a slice of paradise. We were there for all the Fourth of July festivities and even took in the small-town charmer of a parade. Pure Americana. Emilia and Pepe Fanjul kicked off the week with a cozy dinner on their fabulous boat!

It was such fun catching up with pals such as Wendy Vanderbilt Lehman, Bob Colacello, Barbara Walters, Katherine and Damon Mezzacappa, and more.

Pamela and Jimmy Finkelstein toasted Lally Weymouth’s birthday at a big, seated dinner in their divine shingled

est lighting. Whoever suggested New York was sleepy in July has not dined at the “frog pond” recently. At various tables, we spotted: Lally Weymouth with Annette and Oscar de la Renta; David Rockefeller with Marlene Hess, Jim Zirin, and friends; Alex Hitz with Amy Fine Collins and Robert Couturier; Kip Forbes; and Frank Petito plus Kie and Haigh Cundey.

Next stop, west to Sun Valley, Idaho, the resort for the fabled Allen and Company annual Sun Valley conference.

We could not wait to get out there to participate in this brilliantly orchestrated

Becky Quick to “Views from the Media Vanguard” as discussed by Barry Diller, John Malone, and Rupert Murdoch with moderator Charlie Rose. Plus, there was an interview with King Abdullah II IBN Al Hussein of Jordan conducted by Tom Brokaw, an interview with Melinda and Bill Gates conducted by Tom Freidman of The New York Times fame, and a chat with Jeb Bush and Bill Bradley moderated by Willow Bay! The afternoons were filled with endless choices of activities ranging from tennis, golf, fly-fishing, river rafting, and yoga—even knitting! Oh my, what a dream of a summer! X SEPTEMBER 2013 147

BROWN

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THE YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST Fashion Week—there are one or two (or three) parties to see and be seen at...

BY ELIZABETH QUINN BROWN Members of F.C. Internazionale Milano played foosball at the Brooks Brothers store in Flatiron on July 30.

148 QUEST

PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

Before the summer comes to a close—and our columnist revs up for Mercedes-Benz

Beth Ostrosky with Daniel Benedict and Andrew Saffir at the La Palestra Kids benefit in East Hampton.

Javier Zanetti and Anne Vincent fêted Brooks Brothers and F.C. Internazionale Milano.

Stephanie Cordoba, Martina Dyb, and Giulia Barratt for Brooks Brothers on July 30.

Langley Fox and Stacey Bendet of alice + olivia at the Cinema Society screening of Austenland.

Kelly Thomas at a Cinema Society after-party at the Jimmy at the James on August 12.

Members of F.C. Internazionale Milano, who will dress in

Jennifer Coolidge, who stars in Austenland with

outfits by Brooks Brothers for the 2013 and 2014 seasons.

Kerri Russell and Jane Seymour, on August 12.

“REMEMBER ONLY GOD can judge ya, forget the haters be-

cause somebody loves ya,” sings Miley Cyrus. And with that, enter September—by which I mean Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week—without thinking about the haters. Do your thing, as long as “your thing” doesn’t include swiping a seat that’s not yours at the tents. God might judge you for that...

On July 30, Brooks Brothers introduced F.C. Internazionale Milano as the brand prepares to dress the players for the 2013 and 2014 seasons. Samir Handanovic, Mateo Kovacic, Diego

Milito, Yuto Nagatomo, and Javier Zanetti arrived at the Flatiron store, outfitted in single-breasted blazers with gold buttons and ties striped in the team’s colors. So, yay, and [insert F.C. Internazionale Milano chant here]!

Later, the Cinema Society hosted a screening of Lovelace with MCM. The film is brilliant, recounting the story of the Deep Throat actress with performances by Peter Saarsgard and Amanda Seyfried. The after-party, which took place at the roof of the Refinery, saw a coterie of bold-faced names, including JaSEPTEMBER 2013 149

son Janego, Chris Noth, Zac Posen, Zachary Quinto, and Gloria Steinem. And can I say thank goodness for the Grey Goose cocktails? Go see Lovelace and you’ll know why I needed a drink...

On August 3, La Palestra Kids—an organization that encourages healthfulness via a cirriculum of classes designed for children aged five months to eight years—hosted a benefit in East Hampton. Supporters like Beth Ostrosky and Howard Stern were among those to head east for the evening, which included catering by David Burke. Later, Women’s Health hosted its “Under the Stars” event at the Bridgehampton Tennis and Surf Club as a kick-off to “Run 10 Feed 10” to benefit FEED. Gathered around DJ Alexandra Richards— and, later, around a bonfire on the beach—were guests such as Ramy Brook, Lauren Bush Lauren, Zosia Mamet, Taryn Man-

The Host Committee had a party at the Box, located at 139 Chrystie Street.

150 QUEST

ning, and Rebecca Minkoff.

On August 12, I attended the alice + olivia and Cinema Society screening of Austenland with my mother (who named me for Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice character, Elizabeth “Lizzie” Bennet) as my date.

We giggled from beginning to end, relishing Jennifer Coolidge’s performance and the pantomime-y energy of everything. The after-party, at the Jimmy at the James, was attended by Stacey Bendet, Drew Grant, and Carson Griffith.

On August 14, I attended a Host Committee party at the Box—a spectacle if there was ever a spectacle. (Of course, Host Committee is a company that helps you throw bashes with your friends and their friends... Visit hostcommittee.com!) Oh, 139 Chrystie Street. I wish I knew how to quit you. X

M A D E L I N E WO L F ; PAT R I C K M C M U LL A N

YGL

Two partygoers enjoyed the open bar and the performances at the Box on August 14.

Gina Whitehead and Amanda Mazza at the launch of “Artist & Agency” at Le Baron on July 26.

Melinda LT and Raymond G toasted “Artist & Agency” at Le Baron.

Amanda Seyfried plays the role of Linda Lovelace in the biopic, Lovelace.

Ryan Sullivan, Sarah Doyle, Allison Port, and JJ Switzer at a Host Committee event.

Laura Frerer-Schmidt and Michele Promaulayko, wearing LoveShackFancy, at the Run 10 Feed 10 event.

Nicole Trunfio and Hannah Davis at the Cinema Society after-party for Lovelace.

Joel Rodriguez and Michael Wolf joined the Host Committee at the Box on August 14.

Ivanka Trump attended the Cinema Society screening

Alexandra Richards deejayed at a FEED

of Lovelace at MoMA on July 30.

event in Bridgehampton on August 3.

SEPTEMBER 2013 151

SNAPSHOT

TAKE A BOW ON JANUARY 29, 1962, Yves Saint Laurent presented the first haute couture collection for his own label. It’s a date I can’t forget, because the moment I finished Alice Rawsthron’s biography about the designer, I was hooked on fashion. She recaps the moment at the end of his show: “Two hours—and 104 outfits—later the show was over. The audience clapped and cried ‘Bravo.’ Yves was pushed out into the salon to take a bashful bow. Zizi Jeanmaire raced to embrace him and he collapsed in tears on her shoulder surrounded by scores of photographers.”

There’s something deliciously glossy about a runway show: Actors flanked by “it” girls and fashion editors, all chatting with the usual coterie of the designer’s friends. Then the clothes come out, and you watch the designers express a range of emotion through them. But in a flash, it’s over, and 152 QUEST

out comes the creator—the human quality of the collection— whose gracious wave or humble gesture is met with applause.

What must it be like for the designer in the moments leading up to the show? “It’s a very pumped-up day,” Dennis Basso tells me. With the idea of Yves’ first show in mind, I ask Basso about his freshman runway experience. “It’s something that you thought that only other people did, and here I was now, the designer, doing it,” he says. “It was a thrilling feeling.” —Alex R. Travers This page, clockwise from top left: Tom Ford; Carolina Herrera; Ralph Lauren; Gilles Mendel; Dennis Basso; Karl Lagerfeld walking out with his army of models; Oscar de la Renta with the model Karlie Kloss; Giorgio Armani. Be sure to look for our daily online coverage of New York Fashion Week, September 5–12, at www.questmag.com.

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