Winter Q 2012 by QUEST Magazine

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E WINTER ISSUE 2012 > $5.00

WINTER CLASSICS

marilyn monroe, 1953 Photographed by Alfred Eisenstaedt

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38 LIVING LEGEND Marilyn Monroe is our Living Legend this winter. Legendary gossip journalist Liz Smith goes behind the blond exterior to portray a star who was as serious as she was sexy, and as beguiling as she was beautiful. 50 klosters, Switzerland Helena Khazanova contributes her second piece to Q in this winter issue, heading to the snowy slopes of the Alps for a special report on the fashion, food, and fun at this unique, historical ski resort.

56 the magic act Georgina Schaeffer reviews the new book Dior Couture, photographed by the legendary Patrick Delmarchelier and published this season by Rizzoli. 62 say it with color Today’s brides and grooms have a colorful array of options when it comes to picking out a ring. Daniel Cappello heads to the Bridal Salon at the David Yurman Townhouse to report on the latest trends. 66 all bets on Q’s regular feature about one incredible party of the season returns with a visit to The Paradise Ball in Palm Beach, by Elizabeth Meigher and Lucien Capehart.

72 painting it red The velvet ropes to the hippest restaurants and clubs in town open up when Q goes on a guided tour with one of New York’s nightlife princes, Liam McMullan. 78 a touch of tod’s Daniel Cappello takes a look at how the house of Tod’s has grown from an iconic driving shoe into one of the chicest luxury brands on the market, with an impressive collection of handmade shoes, bags, and more. 86 TIMELY MOMENTS The latest mini-curated collection of “50 Photographs,” from the visual archives of the New York Times, was selected by five leading fashion designers.

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Marilyn Monroe getting out of a car in California on May 1, 1953. Photograph by Alfred Eisenstaedt/Pix Inc. Part of the Time & Life Pictures Collection. Courtesy of Getty Images.

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21 Nostalgia Baby, it’s cold outside! Cuddle up and remember your favorite fashions and pastimes of the winter season. 24 Jewelry Two pages of jewelry show off showstopping pieces for day and night, taking inspiration from the glamorous Gloria Swanson and America’s truly golden girl, Goldie Hawn. 28 fur Elizabeth Taylor collected more than just husbands—she also amassed a sizeable collection of jewels and closets of fur! 30 bags Meryl Streep heads to the White House with a classic clutch under her arm. Follow her lead with these bags.

31 shoes Jean Harlow’s a classic and so are these heels! 32 bikinis The sexy Priscilla Presley shows how it’s done. 34 accessories Who is more stylish for women than Greer Garson, or cooler for men than Steve McQueen? 36 skins Welcome to the jungle in these animal prints and skins. If you follow Zsa-Zsa’s style, you’ll feel va-va-va-voom.

92 q focus Behind the scenes of the hottest parties from coast to coast and up and down the eastern shoreline. 102 valery joseph The well-known stylist caters to the Upper East Side and beyond, offering long cuts with layers. 104 beauty Our latest roundup of the best beauty products. 106 evening looks Whether you’re a Jackie or an Ava, you’ll find inspiration here for how to dress up for evening. 110 shopping index Where to find the looks from these pages.

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112 HOROSCOPES The stars align in our first ever horoscopes column. Find out what they have in store for you!

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David Patrick Columbia

Elizabeth Meigher

editor-in-Chief

Editor

james stoffel Creative director

Georgina Schaeffer executive editor

elizabeth quinn brown a ssociate editor

Christian Chensvold contributing editor

Daniel Cappello fa shion editor

valeria fox A ssociate Art Director

hilary geary societ y Editor

robert brown savannah syska INTERN s

Joanna Baker co-founding editor

Quest Media, LLC. S. Christopher Meigher III Chairman and C.E.O.

kathleen sheridan a ssi stant to the c.e.o.

arlene lefkoe accounting manager Board of Advisors

Brucie Boalt Edward Lee Cave Barbara CORCORAN JED H. GARFIELD CLARK HALSTEAD howard lorber pamela liebman Elizabeth Stribling Roger W. Tuckerman peter turino William Lie Zeckendorf lisa rosenberg 917.576.8951 greenwich

Bina Gupta 852.2868.1555 Hong Kong

Contributing writers

Barbara Bancroft Liz smith Taki Theodoracopulos michael thomas Contributing photographers

drew altizer harry benson billy farrell Patrick McMullan alexis theodoracopulos hannah thomson LINDA LANE SOPER 612.308.4159 PA L M BEACH

Emilio Zerboni 011.39.031.267.797 Milan

ÂŠ QUEST MEDIA, LLC 2012. All rights reserved. Vol. 6, No. 4. Q-Quintessential Style is published quarterly, 4 times a year. Yearly subscription rate $32.00. Two year rate $50.00. Q, 420 Madison Avenue, Penthouse, 16th floor, New York, NY 10017. 646.840.3404 fax 646.840.3408. For address changes, please call: 646.840.3404. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Q-Quintessential Style, 420 Madison Avenue, Penthouse, 16th floor, New York, NY 10017. subscription Inquiries

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EDITOR’S LETTER

The average magazine weighs approximately 1 pound. Q and Quest each typically run at about 1.75 pounds, and the average issue of Vogue tips the scale at a whopping 2 to 4 pounds. I can be seen carrying anywhere from 5 to 25 of these glossies anytime I am spotted on an airplane. One clever family friend with natural beauty and flawless style knows this well, as we always catch other on JetBlue between New York and Palm Beach. Each time we run into each other she laughs, “Elizabeth, darling, excellent effort but please don’t break your back with that heavy bag!” Identifying “style”—that seductive, elusive, and everevolving concept at the heart of fashion—is the ultimate goal in poring over each and every page. This past December, on my annual crack-of-dawn flight down to Palm Beach the morning after Christmas, it occurred to me how much the meaning of style has become diluted. With such focus on styling these days—fashion stylists, celebrity style experts, personal shoppers, live-in “style-sperts”—has the essence of “style” gone lost in the fold? Has “personal” been dropped from its meaning completely? I remembered Coco Chanel’s words: “Fashion fades, only style remains the same.” What is “style”? An art... an expression...a way to arrange garments? Style may be indescribable, but you know it when you see it. Style exists in the poise with which Coco Chanel assertively twisted her mix of faux and precious pearls as she brought forth her men’s wear-inspired suits. Style exists in Jackie O’s oversized sunglasses, simple chinos, and modern shifts. Style is in the dirt on Kate Moss’s Hunter boots, as she trudged through the mud at Glastonbury. And style rang from Marilyn Monroe’s dewy breath as she sang for the troops in a skin-tight gown in sub-zero temperatures. Style cannot be defined, but it can be identified—its presence has the power to make history. Speaking of Marilyn, in this issue, contributor Liz Smith delivers a lively, candid look at the orphan born Norma Jean Mortensen, who transformed herself into the actress-singer-model-showgirl whose potent sex-goddess image still reigns. For another taste of “Old Hollywood” glamour, check out our feature on Palm Beach’s Paradise Casino photographed by contributor Lucien Capehart. The evening was like a still from a Marlene Dietrich-era film. Wearing Salvatore Ferragamo’s 1930sinspired Resort 2012 collection, beauties and high-rollers played the night away at the blackjack, roulette, and poker tables. And for more nocturnal mischief a little further north, first-time contributor Liam McMullan offers a look at his most frequented New York nighttime destinations. Liam’s personal anecdotes and commentary are what make the article especially fun to read. Helena Khazanova delivers a captivating portrayal of Klosters, the oasis-like resort that’s wedged between towering mountain peaks dotted with beautiful old wooden chalets. Daniel Cappello, Q and Quest fashion editor, offers an excellent example of understated, effortless style with his story on Italian fashion house Tod’s. I admire that the company introduced real girls (not professional models) into its ready-to-wear campaigns. And Lizzie Brown delivers a piece on terrific style with her story on Valery Joseph. This piece is particularly close to my heart, as “Val” is not only a creative genius when it comes to hair, but he and his beautiful wife, Clockwise, from bottom: Kate Moss, a style icon; a Tod’s ad camRevi, are longtime Q and Quest supporters. Their salons provide toppaign featuring Amanda Strong Boalt; stunning Asprey earrings; quality work to famous and elite clientele on all services. Their salons owners of the Valery Joseph Salons, Revi and Val; a handbag provide top-quality work to famous and elite clientele on all services. from Tod’s; a look on the Rag & Bone runway; a scene from Val and Revi are also loving parents to their adorable sons. With Val Klosters in Switzerland; a boot from Ralph Lauren; Georgina and Revi, clients are immediately put at ease by their generous nature Schaeffer writes on Dior Couture (Rizzoli) in this issue; a vest and soothing tone. Val and Revi epitomize style, not only in fashion, from Elizabeth and James; Marilyn Monroe, this issue’s “Living but in life—and that is the greatest style of all. u Legend,” performed at USO shows in Korea.

ELIZABETH MEIGHER EDITOR

ÂŽ

L egendary chic O riginal designs by M arina b ulgari

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CONTRIBUTORS

Liz Smith > Liz calls herself the 2,000-year-old gossip columnist. These days she’s been having fun with her website, which features twenty famous women: WowOWow.com (aimed at the largest demographic coming on the web—women who weren’t born yesterday!). In her latest “Living Legend” column for Q, Liz tells the tragedy of Marilyn Monroe, a genuine talent who struggled to overcome the stereotypes that were assigned to her throughout her life because of her beautiful, if burdensome, looks.

Daniel Cappello > In this issue, Daniel Cappello, fashion editor for Quest and Q, writes about two major luxury brands: the American jewelry company David Yurman and the Italian leather and fashion house Tod’s. Visiting David Yurman’s Madison Avenue Townhouse boutique, he discovers what trends both brides and grooms are leaning toward when it comes to picking out a ring. He also tackles how Tod’s achieves that ultra-luxe touch. This spring, Cappello will release his first book, The Ivy League (Assouline).

Liam McMullan > Growing up in New York City has its benefits, but when your father is the photographer Patrick McMullan, life has its own plans for you. Liam McMullan does as much as he can, acting in Joel Schumaker’s Twelve, playing in a band with his fiancée, Aesha Waks, DJing at SPIN NYC, acting as an artist and photographer, and writing everything from screenplays to Page Six stories. He’s learned that success is not about birth, but a personal journey that requires hard work, diligence, luck, and—most of all—persistence.

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38 < Helena Khazanova Gautier Helena Khazanova Gautier is a social commentary freelance writer whose work often takes her around the world. Her passion for travel keeps her in touch with people, situations, and events that help shape her knowledge and opinions on the latest interests of today’s society. In addition to Q, her work has appeared in Paris Match and on “A Small World.” She lives in New York City with her husband, Adrien Gautier, and their two dogs. She is currently working on her first novel.

< Lucien Capehart Almost four decades ago, photographic artist Lucien Capehart arrived in Palm Beach. He came to the beautiful island resort community on what was supposed to be a vacation, but fell in love with what he saw—and stayed. Today, the name Lucien Capehart is synonymous with excellence in artistic photography and design. He regularly works with both Quest and Q magazines, snapping party pictures from Palm Beach and producing photographic feature stories.

< Elizabeth Quinn Brown Since her graduation from Trinity College, Elizabeth Quinn Brown has worked at Quest and Q magazines, currently as an associate editor and as the “Young and the Guest List” columnist. Recently, she was cast to play herself opposite Chace Crawford in an episode of Gossip Girl. Elizabeth Quinn Brown can be found cheering for the Rangers, masquerading as a foodie, reminiscing about Phillips Exeter, or on Twitter, tweeting as ElizabethQBrown. Follow her.

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winter AC T IVI T I E S City dwellers on a snowy stroll down Fifth

Avenue along Central Park, circa 1900.

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This page: 1. A snow sculpture of a wildcat built for Wildcat Mountain in Pinkham Notch, N.H.; 2. A little girl, dressed in a winter coat and tights, reaches for a doll through a shop window; 3. A poster advertising Timberline Lodge in Mount Hood, Oregon; 4. “Dance With Dick Clark” (1958) helped earn Dick Clark the title of “America’s Oldest Teenager;” 5. A group of youngsters play baseball in the snow—talk about sliding into first base, 1951. > Opposite page: 1. A vintage postcard depicts a bird’s eye view of skating at Rockefeller Center; 2. A group of women playing ice hockey in long skirts, 1918; 3. College students slide down a hill together atop trays borrowed from the cafeteria; 4. Partygoers mingling at Truman Capote’s famed Black and White Ball at the Plaza Hotel in 1966; 5. George Miller Henderson in the 1930s in Mount Hood.

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2 Gloria Swanson is most famously remembered for her role in Sunset Boulevard (1950), in which she played Norma Desmond, a silent-film actress whose popularity dwindles with the advent of talking films or “talkies.” Swanson, of course, was no quiet lady; in addition to the silver screen, she was the host, in 1948, of one of T.V.’s first live series, The Gloria Swanson Hour, in which her friends appeared as guests. Whether you’re the quiet or the talkative type, one thing’s for sure: your jewelry speaks volumes, so have some fun while picking out new stones that will express the real you.

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1. marina b EXI ring in yellow gold and blue topaz; $12,100. 2. marco bicego The Diamond Jaipur Link ring in 18-kt. gold; $3,830. 3. david yurman Tapestry Enhancer with prasiolite and diamonds on gold quatrefoil chain. 4. sotheby’s diamonds Crysanthemum bracelet with seven diamonds bordered by spinels, set in rose gold and steel. 5. wempe Blu BY KIM gold ring with single diamond; $1,255. 6. chanel Golden metal and strass bracelet. 7. van cleef & arpels “Makara” ring in yellow and colored sapphires, diamonds, turquoises, garnets, and white and yellow gold. 8. harry winston Ruby and diamond oval solitaire ring.

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Goldie Hawn will always be a golden girl of American entertainment, with her striking blond locks and good-girl smile. From Private Benjamin to Bird on a Wire, from Overboard to Death Becomes Her, Hawn has kept us marching along and laughing from the early ’80s through today. In the 1996 film The First Wives Club, Goldie (along with co-stars Diane Keaton and Bette Midler) plays a divorcée with something to prove. In the film, Ivana Trump enjoys a cameo, advising, “Don’t get mad, get everything.” Whatever your relationship status, you, too, should have everything—including these fine jewels.

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4 1. ashley pittman Five dark horn and bronze bangles; $550. 2. cartier Black and White Trinity bracelet; $48,300. 3. tiffany & co. Paloma’s Venezia Luce pendant (large) in 18-kt. gold; $2,100. 4. slane Blue lapis tassel necklace; $9,400. 5. links of london FEED black and metallic pewter cord bracelet; $125. 6. ruby kobo Black Diamond Wrap bracelet; $1,050. 7. lalique Petillante rings in 18-kt. yellow gold, amber crystals, and diamonds; $2,340-3,840. 8. ASPREY Woodland earrings: gold and diamond hoops ($1,600) with blackberry charms ($1,350). 9. AZATURE Limited-edition matte-finish platinum sterling metal and micro-pavé black diamonds; $4,900.

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FUR

1. rag & bone Rag & Bone’s Kola Vest in natural lamb leather ($2,000) and Aberdeen Jacket in natural ($595), paired on top of Rag & Bone’s Pinfold top ($395) and Saami pants ($450). 2. christian cota Nomadic printed onde fox coat ($10,500) paired with an abstract mirage long jersey tank dress ($450); available at Saks Fifth Avenue. 3. strenesse gabriele strehle Knitted fox fur jacket; $3,600, available at Anik Boutique: 212.861.9840. 4. dennis basso The favorite furrier of fashionable women in the know, Dennis Basso can be counted on for the finest fur coats, stoles, boleros, and even bags; 212.794.4500. 5. elizabeth and james Stay fur-trimmed in this leopard parka, zip-back pullover, and Jaidon pant from Elizabeth and James.

When The Fur Fits After playing the role of Velvet Brown in National Velvet (1944), Elizabeth Taylor skyrocketed to fame at the age of twelve. She would go on to build one of the most illustrious movie careers ever, managing to capture the American imagination time and again. Another thing she seemed to have a knack for was getting married: Over the course of her career, the actress took vows eight times—twice to Richard Burton—becoming a model of seduction. Of course, her expensive collection of luxury goods, from diamonds to sables, only served to enhance her reputation. Any girl with great fashion sense knows, however, that you can never have too much of certain good things—and fur, in any form, is definitely one of them.

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BAGS

Carry It Closely Meryl Streep explored acting at Vassar College and Yale University before being cast as a young woman in a variety of theatrical productions, including Shakespeare. She went on to win many Academy Awards, Golden Globe Awards, and Emmy Awards, among others. Most recently she has made headlines playing Margaret Thatcher in The Iron Lady. Make headlines yourself (or at least a good impression) by carrying a worthy handbag, much like Streep did herself (spotted here leaving the White House).

1. tory burch Make the Robinson tote in highest-quality scratch-resistant Italian leather your everyday carry-all; $550. 2. Hunter Boot The Original Tall Tote in Very Berry; $195. 3. DEVI KROELL Made for gray: the Devi Kroell Beluga bag in crocodile; $7,000. 4. chanel A chic staple to carry by hand or by its chain: Chanel’s quilted glazed-leather black bag with a “CC” lock; available at Chanel boutiques nationwide. 5. anne fontaine Anne Fontaine’s oh-so-cute GLORY Deauville wallet; $150. 6. ralph lauren The suede Slouchy Hobo is a staple for winters in the city; $795. 7. j.crew The Marceau hobo bag fits everything you need, and still fits under your arm; $278. 8. kendall conrad The Narcissa II soft shoulder bag in suede; $875. 9. van astyn The Carrington Medium Shopper in Truffle Bazadais Nubuck; $1,290.

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1. roger vivier Roger Vivier’s Sorcier Python is a multi-colored python strappy sandal with a chic interpretation of the signature Vivier buckle; $1,325. 2. chanel Chanel’s white leather sandal is adorned with fine leather straps and a solid heel—high fashion meets high function; available at Chanel boutiques.

3. delman Delman’s Gita patent-leather T-strap sandal is red hot this season; $250. 4. manolo blahnik Stay fashionably fit in Manolo Blahnik’s Fuad heel; $825, available at Barneys New York. 5. j.crew Dress things up with the Georgine heel, bedecked with swirls of ivory silk satin; $235. 6. stuart weitzman Walk on air in Stuart Weitzman’s lucite, vinyl, and patent-leather T-strap

HighHeel Style

sandals; $425, available at Stuart Weitzman Columbus Circle: 212.823.9560.

In 1911, Jean Harlow was born Harlean Harlow Carpenter in Kansas City, Missouri. She moved to Hollywood in 1923 with her mother, who aspired to be an actress. While her mother’s acting career failed, Jean Harlow was discovered—without effort, waiting for a friend in a car. She was the original “Blonde Bombshell,” and was cast in 1931 in Platinum Blonde (a year later she would be cast in the lead role of Red-Headed Woman). A natural comedian, Harlow was paired several times with the likes of Spencer Tracy and Clark Gable. You don’t need to be a platinum blonde or redhot movie siren to channel some old Hollywood glam; slip into any of these high heels (like Manolo Blahnik’s hot-pink Fuads or Stuart Weitzman’s lucite heels), and you’ll be walking like a star.

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BIKINIS

Teeny Weeny Priscilla Presley, born Priscilla Ann Wagner, first met Elvis in the late 1950s, when her stepfather was transferred to West Germany, where Elvis happened to be at the time. She was approached on the street and asked if she’d like to be introduced to Mr. Presley; to her surprise, her strict parents allowed their 14-year-old to meet him. She had to dress the part, and often ransacked her mother’s closet to find something mature enough for The King. The first photo of her in the press showed a young girl in a rather drab checked dress and head scarf. It wouldn’t be until several years later that she’d undergo a stark transformation, which catapulted her into the spotlight as a fashion icon of the ’60s. One easy way of earning icon status? The bikini.

1. trina turk for grace bay club Pick up new separates in colorful and whimsical patterns like this one from the Trina Turks & Caicos collection, designed by Trina Turk for Grace Bay Club; $76-204. 2. palma You’ll love the color and feel—not to mention the loop detailing—of the red Lulu halter ($60) and bottom ($60) from Palma. All halters and bottoms in the collection are sold as separates and can be mixed and matched. 3. prism Positano ice-gray top ($182) and Essaouiera ice-gray bottom ($82), from model-turneddesigner Anna Laub’s new label. 4. shoshanna Sunset Beach Band halter ($114) and brief ($66). 5. j.crew Royal paisley bandeau top ($46) and bikini ($44). 6. bottega Veneta Plaster Cioccolate basket-print swimwear; $620.

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ACCESSORIES

Pretty Prints In 1940, Greer Garson played the role of Elizabeth Bennet in the film version of Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice, with a screenplay credited to Aldous Huxley. This season, there’s no reason to be anything but proud of your wardrobe—or your accessories. Pick out a new printed silk stole from Chanel or a colorful carré from Louis Vuitton. You can never have enough of them to wear, or to tie around your waist or handbag. Kate Spade’s charming “Make Headlines” mugs are a delicious way to take your coffee or tea in the morning. And when it comes to textures, don’t forget a suede clutch from Ralph Lauren or a calf-hair belt from J.Crew.

1. J.crew Slip on a touch of the wild in a luxe little number like J.Crew’s wide calf-hair belt; $79.50. 2. ralph lauren Ralph Lauren’s suede fold-over zip clutch adds a perfectly vibrant pop of color to any wardrobe; $495. 3. diane von furstenberg These patterned glass coasters offer a chic landing for your finest glasses and stemware; $25 for a set of four. 4. kate spade Perk up with Kate Spade’s “Make Headlines” mugs, available at Bloomingdale’s; $25 each. 5. louis vuitton This season, try on Louis Vuitton’s Seasonal Prints Marine carré; $445. 6. mrs. john l. strong The art of writing lives strong with Mrs. John L. Strong’s “Winter” writing tablet. 7. chanel Every girl deserves some Chanel, like this ivory printed silk stole.

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Shake Things Up Steve McQueen became popular in movies in the 1960s and ’70s, a hero of the anti-Vietnam War movement who raced motorcycles, smoked cigarettes, and wore leather. He performed his own stunts, married three times (once to actress Ali MacGraw), and passed up the male lead in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Steve McQueen collected experiences, and you can collect accessories—all while taking a cue from his lead. Add some new accents to your wardrobe with a Baume & Mercier timepiece or some seasonally stylish specs from Polo Ralph Lauren. Dress up your wet bar with a sturdy enamel shaker from Asprey, or your dresser with a new bottle of Prada’s latest scent. Slip into a new pair of John Lobb or Stubbs & Wootton shoes, or slip on some new jewelry. Any way you do it, be sure, like McQueen, to do it with style.

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1. montblanc From the Tribute to Mont Blanc series comes this men’s necklace in stainless steel and black onyx; $350. 2. ralph lauren Outfit your eyes in red tartan eyeglass frames from Polo Ralph Lauren. 3. baume & mercier The Capeland timepiece is a modern reinterpretation of the Gallet pocket watches of the early 19th century; $19,500. 4. luis morais Available at Bergdorf Goodman Men’s Store: a selection of colorful bracelets from Luis Morais; $1,375-3,925. 5. prada Prada Amber Pour Homme Intense is a celebration of amber in its classic form—in a bottle that’s an accessory all its own; $100 for 100-ml. Deluxe. 6. asprey Enamel cocktail shaker in red; $870. 7. john lobb The latest Saint Crépin style from John Lobb in Malbec Moonlight calf. 8. stubbs & wootton The Sussex shoe, in a perfect plaid pattern; $450.

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Stayin’ Skinny Zsa Zsa Gabor married nine times, and starred, funnily enough, in the romantic-comedy We’re Not Married! Among her husbands were the hotel magnate Conrad Hilton and the English film and television actor George Sanders. Gabor once quipped, “I’m a marvelous housekeeper. Every time I leave a man, I keep his house.” In addition to houses, Gabor, pictured here in an animal-print wrap, kept all sorts of expensive gifts and goodies. And wouldn’t she have been lucky to have snagged some of these exotic luxuries?

1. JIMMY CHOO Among Jimmy Choo’s latest icons is the Shirley—a sleek boot in night degradé python that captures the feminine power and confidence of snakeskin in a peep-toe bootie; $2,195. 2. TOD’S Stand up for the Tod’s wedge in white python; $1,125. 3. CHRISTIAN COTA When wearing skin isn’t an option, reach for the artistry of Cota’s hand-painted stretch ponte layered pencil skirt ($1,150) and snow leopard drape-neck top in metallic lace ($795). 4. MICHAEL KORS Wrap it up in the Barley painted python trench ($12,995) and crossbody harness belt ($1,195). 5. MONTBLANC The bold python Meisterstück Atelier Wallet, from the brand’s ultra-luxe “connoisseur” range, is an alluring option in graphic snakeskin; $785. 6. VBH The Envelope clutch in Python Tokyo Terra; $1,450.

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Meera Gandhi’s Giving Back Book with Foreword by Cherie Blair.

Book Launch To be Held on May 9, 2012 the Museum of Arts and Design at Columbus circle, New York. $50 hardcover Available at Chartwell Booksellers • The Corner Bookstore • Crawford Doyle Booksellers Rizzoli Bookstore • St. Mark’s Bookshop www.Amazon.com • www.TheGivingBackFoundation.net

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“I’m trying to find myself as a person. Sometimes that’s not easy to do. Millions of people live their entire lives without finding themselves. But it is something I must do. The best way for me to find myself as a person is to prove to myself that I am an actress.” That was Marilyn Monroe, in 1955, the year of her great rebellion against Hollywood. Monroe died on a warm California night on August 4, 1962. She finally succumbed to the barbiturates she used all of her adult life to control chronic insomnia and excruciating menstrual pain (she would crumple to the floor in agony at the onset of her period). And yes, she finally succumbed to her emotional pain. I don’t believe Marilyn “planned” to die; it simply happened to

The Legend Of Marilyn Monroe

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Liz Smith

her that night—one unusually unhappy night. (And, if we are to believe her hand was on the telephone when her body was found, it is likely she changed her mind.) Almost 50 years after her death, Marilyn’s hold on the collective imagination is stronger than it was even during her short life. As I write this, actress Michelle Williams has won a Golden Globe and will likely be Oscar-nominated for her portrayal of Monroe in the movie My Week With Marilyn. Inevitably, the word used to describe Marilyn is “tragic.” Her tragic childhood, her tragic life, her tragic death. Few remember the Marilyn of 1955. Well, I prefer to recall that empowered woman—a woman of whom her friend Ella Fitzgerald remarked: “She was a little ahead of her time, and she didn’t realize it.”

This page: Marilyn Monroe, with her long eyelashes, platinum curls, and red lipstick, defined beauty in the â&#x20AC;&#x2122;40s and â&#x20AC;&#x2122;50s. > Opposite page: the actress in evening wear.

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Just as it was easy to type and dismiss Marilyn during her lifetime, it is easy to see her as a victim now. A victim of men, a victim of the repressed era, a victim of her personal shortcomings. And, indeed, she was a troubled woman. All who knew her well saw her suffering, but they also saw the image she had created: soft, yielding, funny, deliciously flamboyant. The fabled photographer Richard Avedon said, shortly before his death, “People don’t realize it, but she invented Marilyn Monroe.” Marilyn had some of the qualities she imbued her screen characters with—a certain vulnerability and a palpable sadness that seeped into her comic roles, giving her sexless, cardboard heroines more depth than they deserved. Under the public facade was blazing ambition, a genuine toughness, native intelligence, and a desire that was never quenched—not even in her final year of life—to lift herself up, to better herself. Marilyn’s intellectual curiosity, and her desire to be a finer actress—one worthy of respect—was considered hilarious. “Please don’t make me a joke,” she said in her final interview to Life magazine writer

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Richard Meryman in 1962. She laughed girlishly, but Meryman saw the pain and weariness beneath the giggle. The preferred notion of Marilyn Monroe is that she staggered through her life in some drug-addled haze, a miasma of neurosis and helplessness. She was painted at the end as the mentally unstable or vindictive blond cog in Byzantine murder plots involving—depending on what you read—the Kennedys, the CIA, the FBI, the mafia, her therapist, her housekeeper. What escapes conspiracy theorists, and those who prefer Marilyn as a mess in a beaded dress, is that she was a working woman. From the enforced drudgery of orphanages and foster care to being a bride and World War II housewife at barely 16, then a factory worker, and then a model. Her mournful childhood, which Monroe would later cleverly embellish to woo female fans startled by her hyper-sexy image, had saddled her with conflicting personality traits. She was torn by crushingly low self-esteem, a resistance to certain kinds of discipline, and an unstoppable desire to be more than her origins predestined. When she began modeling at 18, the head of the Blue Books Modeling Agency noted that she was unusually photogenic— “Eyes: Blue,” “Bust: Excellent,” and “Teeth: Perfect,” her

This page: Lauren Bacall, Humphrey Bogart, and Monroe; the actress with her third husband, Arthur Miller; Monroe, promoting herself on the radio; Bobby Kennedy, the actress, and John F. Kennedy; Monroe flips through a program in a theater. > Opposite page: Monroe was known for showing off her figure; How to Marry a Millionaire (1953) featured Monroe as a â&#x20AC;&#x153;dumb blond,â&#x20AC;? playing alongside Betty Grable and Lauren Bacall.

This page, clockwise from top left: Monroe was often sewn into her hip-hugging garments; the actress with one of her co-stars, Jane Russell; Monroe in one of her first shoots as an aspiring actress; the actress appeared playful on camera; Monroe posed nude on several occasions. People were scandalized when topless photos taken before she was successful emerged. > Opposite page: Marilyn Monroe played the role of Lorelei Lee in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes (1953), performing “Diamonds are a Girl’s Best Friend” outfitted in pink satin.

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first resume would state. Far more impressive than her natural prettiness was her desire to improve upon herself. She initially resisted bleaching her deep auburn hair to blond, but once committed to a more “unnatural” (as she put it) image, she never looked back. Years after Marilyn had become famous, the head of the agency stated, “A lot of them ask, ‘How can I be like Marilyn Monroe?’ But they’ll never be another like her. No one ever worked harder, or had more belief in herself.” When movies called, intrigued by the popularity of her pinups, she began timorously. Signed by 20th Century Fox, she was dropped after a year and a walk-on. Signed by Columbia, she starred in a little movie, Ladies of the Chorus. She was dropped when she resisted the advances of Columbia studio head Harry Cohn. Back to modeling, struggling. Another bit part in a Marx Brothers movie. More struggle. It was at this point she posed for the calendar art that would later cement her as a sex symbol. MGM noticed her and she was cast in the small but pivotal role as the baby-doll mistress of Louis Calhern in The Asphalt Jungle. Her insecurities blossomed prior to her audition for director John Huston. The script described her character as “sexy.” Marilyn arrived with her perfectly proportioned bosom padded. Huston reached into her blouse, pulled out the padding and told her to read. She got the part. She was superb, but MGM already had Lana Turner. Marilyn was on the slow track to nowhere. Then she met agent-manager Johnny Hyde, 30 years her senior. He had helped discover Rita Hayworth and Lana. Marilyn did not resist his advances. Hyde left his wife of many years to marry Marilyn. She refused. When it was suggested she would be the very rich Mrs. Johnny Hyde, she said, “But I would be taken even less seriously than I am now!” Hyde negotiated a new contract with 20th Century Fox for Marilyn. Darryl Zanuck, the studio head, was resistant; he did not find her appealing. Spyros Skourous, the chairman of the board of Fox, did—he was impressed by her dramatic late arrival at an industry gala. Zanuck conceded and, before the ink was dry, Johnny Hyde suffered a fatal heart attack. Now Marilyn was seen as the little tramp who lured the much-admired Johnny Hyde away from his wife, “got” him to arrange a big studio contract, and essentially killed him with her sex appeal. Still, she had that contract and a small but showy role in All About Eve attracted attention. Zanuck was forced to admit she “had something” though he wouldn’t put her on par with the studio’s Betty Grable. Marilyn was cast in tiny roles that were little more than window dressing. The public responded. Zanuck, however, was increasingly irritated by the young actress’s issues and problems—her demand for an acting coach, upon whose opinion she over-relied, her trouble with remembering lines, or (even more galling) her insistence on asking for more takes. Directors Fritz Lang and Joe Mankiewicz found themselves faced with a girl who looked like cotton candy. Underneath were her demons. And beneath that? Titanium. But Marilyn suddenly became a force, a public-relations bonanza, an allAmerican success story; the Cinderella of cheesecake. There was

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something oddly mournful behind her eyes, even then. The story of little Norma Jeane having been molested when in foster care also put a forgiving gloss to her sometimes too florid display; she was damaged, and therefore not responsible. When the tale of her nude calendar photos surfaced, she defied the studio and owned up. Why, she was just a hard-working girl getting by. She was not ashamed. They were only nudes, after all. And just to prove she was really a good girl with a body she couldn’t help, she began dating recently retired baseball icon Joe DiMaggio. Surely, if Joltin’ Joe thought she was OK… Having watched Marilyn cleverly handle the press, Zanuck began to push her into high gear: she was cast as a mentally disturbed babysitter in Don’t Bother To Knock (a touching performance); a daffy secretary in Monkey Business; a murderous femme fatale in Niagara (her one and only bad girl); and finally the role she was born to play, Lorelie Lee, in what is probably her best, most joyously entertaining film, Gentlemen Prefer Blondes. That was followed by How To Marry a Millionaire, in WINTER 2012/

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which she played another dizzy girl out for big bucks. Fox then cast her in River of No Return as a saloon singer in the Old West, again, out for big bucks. Then she was ordered into a musical with Frank Sinatra, The Girl In Pink Tights. Marilyn declined. She sent Zanuck a telegram: “I have read the script. I do not like it.” Marilyn decided this would be the perfect time to marry her boyfriend of two years, Joe DiMaggio. And so they wed, to screaming headlines. The couple traveled to Japan for their honeymoon, where Joe D. was distressed to be pushed aside while thousands literally rioted for his bride. She then accepted an offer to entertain the soldiers in Korea. Her appearances were a sensation, causing the New York Times to reprimand Army officials for allowing the G.I.s to “behave like bobby-soxers.” How can you punish a girl who just gave her all, on her honeymoon, to America’s fighting troops? Back in Hollywood, Marilyn found herself married to a man who resented her stardom and loathed her image (“Who did he think he married, when he married me?” she would ask friends). And her studio was up to its old tricks. She would appear in a corny musical extravaganza, There’s No Business Like Show Business. She agreed, though she hated the script, which mocked and degraded her. As she toiled—and frequently collapsed—on this set, she thought more about the aspirations of photographer Milton Greene, who had suggested Marilyn form her own production company and leave Hollywood. Her pivotal crisis arrived twofold. When she came to shoot location scenes for The Seven Year Itch in Manhattan, DiMaggio showed up just in time to catch the famous skirt-blowing scene; her scanty panties transparent under the klieg lights. She fought with Joe and they soon separated. Then came the release of There’s No Business Like Show Business. She was criticized for vulgarity—indeed, how her pelvic-centered “Heat Wave” musical number escaped

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the censors is astonishing. She rejected another script, and then, without warning, flew to New York, breaking her contract, declaring herself free from the studio. She and DiMaggio were now on the road to divorce. She formed her company, Marilyn Monroe Productions, with Greene. And then, grinding down her stiletto heel to emphasize her independent stance, began to study with Lee Strasberg and the Actor’s Studio. Lee and his wife, Paula, became Marilyn’s new security blankets. She discarded her old drama coach; she steeped herself in “motivational” acting exercises and Freudian analysis. (These were perhaps not the best avenues for her.) Yet, while pronouncing herself eager to star in the film version of The Brothers Karazamov, Marilyn also appeared at Madison Square Garden atop a pink elephant, wearing a showgirl outfit, bosoms pushed high. “No matter how much a person learns about acting, that person is not going to dye her hair black and wear dresses up to the neck,” Marilyn said. The Seven Year Itch was the comedy smash of 1955 and Marilyn Monroe returned to Hollywood in 1956 with a new contract that gave her more money and control over almost every aspect of her work, including director approval. She had come a long way. (But at a press conference, Marilyn allowed the strap of her tight black cocktail dress to snap—a wink and a nod to her blue-collar fans, “Don’t worry, I’m still Marilyn!”) Marilyn had renewed an old romance with playwright Arthur Miller. They had met in Hollywood when she was a struggling starlet; their paths crossed again in New York. Miller represented ethics, intellectualism, and what seemed a total understanding of her own aspirations as a person and as an actress. Unlike Joe DiMaggio, Miller was excited, rather than threatened, by her public image. She married Miller, despite the warnings of friends, gossip columnists, and even her old champion Spyros Skouros. Miller’s mounting problems with the congressional investigations into un-American activities could taint her, ruin her career. She stood by Miller in this era of blacklisting, protecting him with her fame and her money. They traveled to London. She stepped off the plane at London’s Heathrow airport, arm-in-arm with Miller, and embraced her new co-star, Laurence Olivier, and his wife, Vivien Leigh. London in 1956, like Tokyo in 1954, went mad. Unfortunately, her confidence did not last. When Olivier: first met Marilyn in New York, he was dazzled by her wit, her beauty, her charm. He flirted. She flirted. But now she was a married woman, and he was her director. Marilyn felt Olivier was condescending and did not respect her. He in turn was horrified by her needs, her tentativeness, and her apparent disregard for his direction. Worse was happening behind the scenes. She miscarried, the first of three such losses with Miller. And, as she battled with Olivier, Marilyn one night discovered her husband’s diary open at their rented cottage. He was siding with Olivier, Marilyn was not the angel of his fantasies; in fact, she was being a troublesome bitch! Marilyn was shocked, angry, and—worst of all—believed it. The production staggered on, even coming in under budget. (She would be nominated for Britain’s

This page, clockwise from top left: Monroe poses provocatively wearing lingerie; the actress celebrates one of her birthdays by blowing out a candle in the back of a town car; Monroe was criticized throughout her career for her weight; the actress appears atop an elephant at Madison Square Garden, contradicting her efforts to be taken seriously; Monroe was committed to improving her talents, like dancing. > Opposite, Monroe with Laurence Olivier, with whom she worked on a film produced by Marilyn Monroe Productions.

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This Page: Joe DiMaggio, Monroe’s second husband, looks on as his wife’s face is touched up; Gentlemen Prefer Blondes (1953) featured Monroe and Jane Russell, a brunette. > Opposite page: toward the end of her and Joe DiMaggio’s honeymoon to Japan in 1954, Monroe ventured to South Korea where she performed in 10 United Service Organization (USO) shows for 100,000 soldiers serving in the Korean War.

BAFTA award and win best actress statuettes from France and Italy. But America’s Oscar would not bend.) Her relationship with Milton Greene suffered as well. This was by far the most tragic consequence of the era. Greene had truly loved and supported Marilyn and was her greatest champion. Marilyn Monroe Productions would never make another film. Marilyn valiantly attempted domesticity. She secured an apartment on 57th Street in Manhattan and she and Miller bought a home in Connecticut. She did not work. After suffering another miscarriage, she was persuaded to return to Hollywood for Billy Wilder’s Some Like It Hot. By then, Marilyn’s addictions and fears had grown ten-fold. The production was a nightmare, made even more stressful when Marilyn discovered she was pregnant yet again. She would lose the child after the shooting ended. (Her condition is heartbreakingly evident in much of the film.) The movie would turn into her greatest hit, and she would win a Golden Globe for a performance that was funny and poignant, a fuzzy, disillusioned Lorelei Lee, now named Sugar Kane. But the Academy was more resistant than ever. Marilyn’s public image was undergoing a slow transition. There were the miscarriages and the not-always-subtle press references to her emotional problems and drug-taking and drinking. She was no longer the G.I.’s happy pin-up. She was radiant, still, in her

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appearance, but the public sensed, and insiders knew, there was little in her life to envy. Friends would later recount suicide attempts in these years. Or were they? She was always saved. During the torments of The Misfits shoot, Monroe was shipped back to Los Angeles for detox (“exhaustion,” the papers said). Her insomnia required near-lethal doses of medication. In 1961, in the wake of the collapse of the Miller marriage, the failure of The Misfits, and increasing press speculation about her middle age, Marilyn was hospitalized again, this time placed inappropriately in the “highly disturbed” ward of a New York facility. She was bound and locked in a room. It was her ultimate nightmare: her mother’s insanity come home to roost. Joe DiMaggio, with whom she remained on good terms, forced the hospital to release her and she went to a less frightening set-up. From this environment she wrote her therapist a long, lucid, and moving account of her ordeal. Marilyn Monroe had problems, but she still had her wits and wit. Another lengthy sojourn from the screen commenced, but she used her time well. Long criticized for her over-emphatic shape, Marilyn began to whittle down. (Marilyn, and her brunette counterpart, Elizabeth Taylor, were often attacked for physical sloppiness.) She faced the new decade with a new shape, toned and trim. She was ravishing in costume and makeup tests for Something’s Got To Give, a few months shy of 36, she had come into her own as a woman. But, when production stalled, Marilyn had to stand by and watch as the studio, stunned by the astronomical expenses on Cleopatra, still filming in Rome, teetered. Now began Marilyn’s final battle with authority. She claimed she was genuinely ill, but she was also genuinely willful and offended—by the script and her salary. Her on-set appearances were sporadic. She was charming and cooperative when she was there—she just wasn’t there much. We will never know for sure how much her behavior was fueled by resentment or by her legitimate ailments. It all came to a head when she honored her commitment to sing “Happy Birthday” at President John F. Kennedy’s massive Madison Square Garden gala. Fox ordered her to refuse, as the film was behind schedule. Marilyn ignored them. She considered this a Command Performance.

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This page: Monroe and Jane Russell imprinted their hands and feet in the cement outside of Grauman’s Chinese Theater in Hollywood at the premiere of Gentlemen Prefer Blondes (1953). > Opposite, clockwise from top left: an iconic image of the actress in The Seven Year Itch (1955); Monroe poses on the beach; the actress greets some of her fans, many of whom were male; Monroe is photographed at the beginning of her career, when her hair was still close to its natural color.

And, she was also having a thrilling little romance with Jack Kennedy (and soon his brother Bobby—a much more serious entanglement). She wouldn’t dream of saying no to such an event! Maria Callas was going to be there. And her great friend Ella Fitzgerald. She went. She sang. She made history in her barely-there beaded Jean-Louis gown. She returned to the set invigorated, and determined to give the film a needed shot in the arm. In a swimming pool scene that was supposed to only simulate nudity, Marilyn briefly slipped out of her skin-colored bikini and allowed carefully choreographed shots of herself in the nude. She looked magnificent and the session was an international sensation, but it was too late. When she called in sick again, Fox fired her. The film’s producer said years later that he believed something dramatic had happened to Marilyn, possibly involving her personal life, that pulled her down from the high of the birthday serenade and the subsequent nude scene. (Or perhaps after all her hard work as an actress, she was depressed she was still obliged to make news in the nude. Did she cast a baleful eye at her “drama coach,” Paula Strasberg?) Marilyn was stunned; she had miscalculated. It was not 1954. Fox considered her damaged and aging goods. And, they could not allow her and Elizabeth Taylor to be seen as running the asylum. Marilyn mounted a tremendous campaign. She posed sleek and soignée for Vogue. She romped youthfully on the beach for Cosmopolitan. She was interviewed by Life magazine and Redbook. Public interest and sympathy were

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high. Fox quietly re-hired her, at twice her original salary. This is where Marilyn Monroe’s professional life stood on Saturday night, August 4. Her career hung in the balance, but she was secure in the moment. She had won, again. It was a gossamer triumph, but enough. Various personal issues swirled—Frank Sinatra, Joe DiMaggio, the brothers Kennedy, her apparently insoluble physical and emotional issues, which led to barbiturate and alcohol abuse. The encroachments of middle age terrified her. But when had it been otherwise? No one who knew her intimately would have ever said that, at any time, she was happy, although she was capable of summoning up an infectious life energy, full of wit and vitality. It was her own disapproval of herself, her self-loathing, which drove her to excel and reach ever up and beyond. Her struggle was heroic, and her accomplishments are ill-served when placed in the mode of inevitable failure and victimization. In her last interview, to Life magazine, she said, “That moment, between me the camera. I want it to be perfect. As perfect as I can make it, anyway.” She also said in those final weeks: “Fame has its compensations. It does. But it also has its drawbacks. And I’ve experienced both. It’s like caviar. It’s good to have caviar, but not when you have it every damn day. Too much caviar!” Her summation of what she’d worked for? “Fame may go by. And, so what? I’ve had fame. It’s something I’ve experienced. But it’s not where I live.” Had she lived, the white hot of fame would have passed. But in a cooler climate, she might well have found all she desired. We would not talk of her as we do now, as an almost mythological figure, a repository of endless fantasy and speculation. She would speak for herself. Marilyn Monroe’s death was an accidental blip, one wretched night she couldn’t escape. Had she risen above it, been saved, thought it over, she would have survived. The legendary “correctness” of her passing—the right place, the right year, the right age—works for historians, conspiracy buffs, and fans who cherish her as forever young. Several weeks before she died, an interviewer reminded her of her 1955 declaration of finding herself. Marilyn paused and replied, “There has been an alteration with time. I used to think if I could find myself as an actress, I would fulfill myself as a person. Now I feel if I fulfill myself as a person, I’ll find myself as an actress. The thing is, it seems like I have a superstructure with no foundation. But I’m working on the foundation!” u

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Klosters, Switzerland. Someone once said, “Skiing is a dance and the mountain always leads.” And how true is that? Standing on top of the mountain with endless white sprawled beneath, enveloped in cold, crystallized air, one feels the urge—an almost uncontrollable desire to go really fast or, in my case, a bit slower, down the milky slopes. It is this overwhelming pull of the mountains that sends millions of people each year, packed to the gills with apparel and equipment, to ski resorts all around the world. With the holidays safely behind us, the time has finally come to relax, exhale, and let the skiing season truly begin. I’ll race you to the bottom! by

Helena Kha zanova Gautier

This page: the author, Helena Khazanova Gautier, on vacation at Klosters in Switzerland. > Opposite page: a view overlooking Gotschna Mountain at Klosters in Switzerland, an historic ski resort.

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The pastime of skiing has been a staple since the beginning of the 20th century when early adventurers strapped on their wooden skis and recklessly barreled down the virginal slopes. The glamour of the sport was cemented in 1864 when holidays in Switzerland became very popular with the British aristocracy. Tourists followed, venturing to St. Moritz and, later, to its neighboring resorts, like Klosters. My husband’s family has been coming to this part of the world for generations and it’s just as magical now as it ever was. Klosters is wedged between towering peaks dotted with beautiful old, wood chalets, some dating back to the 16th century. Once a sleepy farming village, Klosters was really put on the map when a T-bar lift—the second one ever built—was installed in 1936. With that ingenious invention, the resort began to attract an international crowd, a tradition continued through today. During its “high season,” the resort tends to draw a distinctly British crowd. Prince Charles is a regular visitor and considers Klosters to be his favorite family getaway. In fact, the cable car running to the top of Gotschna Mountain is named “Prince of

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This page: skiiers unload at the top of the Selfranga Lift, circa 1930. > Opposite page, clockwise from top: a view of Klosters with Gotschna Mountain in the background; there’s no need for machine-made snow at Klosters; the village at Klosters decorated in snow, circa 1960; a present-day view of the historical resort in Switzlerand; skiiers enjoy fresh powder on their trip down Gotschna Mountain, circa 1950.

Wales.” It was at Klosters that Prince William took his thengirlfriend Kate Middleton in 2004, exposing their romance for all to see and beginning the frenzy that was to feed the insatiable appetites of media and crowds alike for years to come. You don’t need to ski at Klosters to be entertained. Shopping is always on my list of things to do and the town is packed with boutiques selling cashmere, furs, and every type of Moon Boot imaginable. I always stop into Pine Cone, an interior design store selling antler chandeliers and crafts by local artisans. Lazy days when not even snow polo is on the agenda are spent

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at Vereina Hotel. Built in 1890, this grand hotel was one of the first in town. The spa inside is simply delicious, allowing me to indulge my addiction to great massage. At night, before heading out to dinner or to Casa (the town’s only nightclub, which has been rocking for decades), one might go skating or curling, a sport that looks deceptively simple but is anything but. The upside to being outside in the cold is the beautiful sight of lights twinkling, decorated Christmas trees, and a large thermos of Glühwein, a rich hot spiced red wine. It feels like a fairy tale with horse-drawn sleighs everywhere and the melodic tinkle of the bells echoing through the night. When it comes to culinary experiences, Klosters is a gem. Despite skiing, I always seem to leave with a few extra pounds. There is the famous and sinfully delectable cheese fondue coupled with country bread and excellent Kirsch, a local cherry liquor that acts as a digestif. Other local specialties—each more mouthwatering than the one before—include wiener schnitzel with onion sauce; rösti potatoes baked with cheese, ham, and egg; Alpine macaroni; and a variety of special soups and salads. One of the famed restaurants is a small place called Wynegg. Its owner, the venerable Ruth Guler, has been running this family business for over 50 years and counts Prince Charles among her friends. She once had to smuggle him out the back door and into a delivery van in order to help him escape paparazzi. Just thinking about their beef fondue chinoise is making me want to get back on the plane immediately. For something a bit more

This page: Gotschna Mountain reigns over a sea of snow-covered fir trees at Klosters in Switzerland. > Opposite: tracks decorate the trails at Klosters in Switzerland, forged by skiiers and snowboarders; synchronized skiiers plow through snow on the side of Selfranga Mountain at Klosters in Switzerland, circa 1930 (inset, above); a cozy lodge, covered in a blanket of snow, invites guests to vacation at Klosters.

elegant and refined, try the upscale Walserstube restaurant located in the swanky Walserhof, a Relais & Châteaux hotel. For après-ski dinner or lunch, there is the incredibly popular Chesa Grischuna, a charming hotel and restaurant serving simple Alpine food with a wooden bowling alley downstairs. There’s also a restaurant called Höhwald, which is located in an old chalet with a fireplace in the middle of the room. The fare there is almost worth skipping the slopes for! This year, Klosters has seen an unprecedented amount of snowfall. Foot upon foot piled on the town, wrapping it in muted white and covering 200 miles of trails and countless runs in flawless, heavy snow. Now back in New York, after having just returned from two glorious weeks there, I am already itching to go back. There is just something about the blinding white, minor frostbite, and clean air that makes you wish for winter to go on and on. For those of you venturing to Klosters in the coming months, I say, “Happy winter, happy skiing, and may you have a lot of snow!” u

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The Magic Act By Georgina Schaeffer

Few names are more revered in the world of fashion than Christian Dior. Founded in Paris in 1946—famous for launching “The New Look” in February 1947—the house still stands today as the archetype of Parisian couture all over the world. This season, the book Dior Couture (Rizzoli), written by Vanity Fair’s Ingrid Sischy and photographed by the legendary Patrick Demarchelier, celebrates this important and long-lived couturier. Over one hundred iconic dresses are pictured, capturing the entire history of Christian Dior

haute couture and featuring the designs of Christian Dior, as well as his famous successors: Yves Saint Laurent, March Bohan, and John Galliano. The settings for these exquisite portraits include a movie studio in Beijing, Times Square in New York, and a private château, the Opéra Garnier, avenue Montaigne, and the Hôtel Plaza Athénée—all in Paris. Wearing these truly breathtaking vintage and contemporary creations are models including Natalia Vodianova, Gisele Bündchen, Karolina Kurkova, Karlie

Spring-Summer 2008.

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Dior Haute Couture Collection. Photo by Patrick Demarchelier.

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2005, Haute Couture Collection. Corset, Dior Fall-Winter 2004, Haute Couture Collection. Photo by Patrick Demarchelier.

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France Dress, Dior Fall-Winter

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Kloss, Gemma Ward, Agyness Deyn, and Caroline Trentini, as well as actress Charlize Theron. Jeff Koons contributes a special forward to the book writing: “The delicate stiches of Christian Dior’s couture are reminicent of a spider’s web, mirroring nature, and these photographs capture the silhouettes like flower buds about to bloom.” This telling description harkens to Dior’s deepest roots. “The New Look” was a phrase coined by the American editor of Harper’s Bazzar Carmel Snow, but the designer himself called his collection “Corelle,” after the botanical term for the circlet of flower petals—particulary refreshing in a post-WorldWar II world. Sischy begins her thoughtful text with Dior’s own curiosity of the newly fashion obsessed public in the 1950s. “I believe it comes from the fact that in the world today, dress design is one of the last repositories of the marvelous,” wrote Dior. “And the couturier is one of the last possessors of the wand of Cinderella’s fairy godmother.” Now, more than 60 years later, his words seem just as timely. The world still needs a little magic. u WINTER 2012/

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Dior Fall-Winter 201o, Haute Couture Collection. Photo by Patrick Demarchelier.

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Say It With Color by

Daniel Cappello

When David Yurman, the founder of the eponymous high-end jewelry company, proposed to his wife and muse, Sybil, romance was not only in the air—it was the inspiration. Yurman wanted to design a ring that symbolized the union of two individuals coming together, with two bands that crossed over each other to embrace a single diamond in the center. Today that ring, aptly named the Crossover Ring, is one of the most sough-after bridal designs from the David Yurman brand. Like many grooms, Yurman decided to declare his love with diamonds, though today he’s seeing a growing trend among couples to tend toward colored gemstones—from sapphires and emeralds to rubies and spinels—when it comes to selecting both engagement rings and wedding bands. And while Yurman is creating many rings with various colored stones specifically

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This page: A view of the third-floor Bridal Salon at the David Yurman Townhouse boutique; Diamond Eternity Band, price upon request. Opposite page: The storefront of the David Yurman Townhouse boutique at 712 Madison Avenue, in New York; the David Yurman Classic Three-Stone Ring

D ave L i e be r m an ; Co u r t e sy o f D av i d Yur ma n

in diamonds and pink sapphire, price upon request.

for traditional bridal designs, he’s also taking note as soon-tobe brides select a stunning ring from his High Jewelry Collection, like an impressive emerald or sapphire. “It’s a particular woman who can appreciate the saturation of color in a precious stone like the rich red of spinel,” Yurman says, going on to explain that colored gemstones have been popular bridal choices throughout time. In fact, it wasn’t until the 20th century, when diamond cutting was perfected, that diamonds became the traditional engagement and bridal gemstone. And, as history shows us, colored gemstones were prevalent in the Middle Ages and in the Victorian Era. They’ve also graced royal couples throughout the ages, including, most recently, both Charles and Diana and William and Kate (the latter of whom were engaged with the same sapphire-centric ring that brought the former together). WINTER 2012/

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No matter what her tastes, a bride shopping at David Yurman certainly has options when it comes to selecting what is arguably the most meaningful jewelry purchase of her lifetime. And there’s no more personalized or intimate setting to shop these days than at the third-floor Bridal Salon of the David Yurman Townhouse boutique, offering private consultations with experienced sales professionals and champagne service among a stunningly edited selection of Bridal and High Collection Jewelry. At David Yurman, grooms, of course, are not to be forgotten. Not only are men increasingly making more and more general jewelry purchases, accounting for a significant portion of Yurman’s business, but when it comes to wedding bands, Yurman and his sales associates are finding that men have become more interested than ever in their choices. Today it’s not just about

the plain gold band; men are gravitating toward sleek titanium bands that not only look great with a suit but can withstand racquetball games at the club or the toughest of sports conditions on the field. And, of course, for loyal fans of the brand, the signature cable motif makes for a stylishly measured choice. Since founding the company in 1980, Yurman has customized thousands of rings for brides and grooms, which played a significant role in convincing him in 2005 that he should introduce a dedicated bridal collection. To this day, Yurman remains “flattered” that customers have looked to him for bridal options. And judging by the wealth of choices, from diamonds and gemstones to materials like platinum, titanium, and all shades of gold, flattery—as luck would have it for his customers and fans—will get you anything you could wish for. u

Mario Testino; Cour tesy of David Yurman

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This page: David and Sybil Yurman (center) and the David Yurman Crossover Engagement Ring (left), inspired by David’s engagement ring for Sybil; David Yurman Classic Pavé Solitaire and 3 Row Micro Pavé Band (bottom). Opposite page, above: Prince William proposed to Kate Middleton with the same sapphire-and-diamond ring with which Prince Charles proposed to Diana Spencer; David Yurman Cushion Cut Ceylon Blue Sapphire and Diamond Ring (middle). Opposite page, from bottom left: David Yurman Baguette

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Bands; Cable Bands; Eternity Bands.

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All Bets On by

Elizabeth Meigher

photographed by

Lucien Capehart

and

Steve Schlackman

Paradise Casino / The whole evening could have been a still, frozen in a fantastic Marlene Dietrich-era old Hollywood film. Throngs of lovely ladies bedecked in Salvatore Ferragamo’s 1930s-themed Spring/ Summer 2012 collection—fluid, silk, shimmering gowns with crystals, sequins, and cashmere galore—mounted the Henry M. Flagler Museum’s grand staircase in Palm Beach. On the other side, dashing “high rollers” and excited partygoers mingled and played their hands at the casino’s blackjack, roulette, and poker tables. And all went toward a good cause, with proceeds benefitting St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital.

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Paradise Casino /

Clockwise from top left:

Jackie Valls and Amanda Boalt; Harry LeFrak and Kari Talley; Tommy Morrison and Nic Roldan; Brandon Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Hara and friends; Hilary Jordan; Binkie Orthwein, Kari Talley, and Tracy Smith; Frances Webster and India Paull; the committee; Ashley Oxenberg; Carlos Musso, Tony Musso, and Amanda Boalt; a car; Kent Anderson, Jessie Biter, and Loy Anderson; Laurel Cummings, Miguel Forbes, and Katrina Woods. > Opposite, clockwise from top left: a group at the table; Davina Woods, Tara Tobin, and Mary Tobin; Trisha Gregory and Ron Adzima; India Paull and David Adams; Reddy Fanjul and Carly Zaringher; India Paull and Davina Woods; the award ceremony; Kane and Mary Baker; Greg Connor and Talbott Maxey; Tatiana and Thorne Perkin; DJ Fairbanks and Jack Elkins; Kristina McPherson, Inger Anderson, and Bettina Anderson; Tommy Morrison and Sara Scheffer.

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Paradise Casino / This page, clockwise from top left: Binkie Orthwein, a notable at Paradise Casino dressed in Salvatore Ferragamo, and Mark Gilbertson smile for the camera; Arvo Katajisto, wearing Salvatore Ferragamo, stands with three women at the tables; Nick Fouquet, wearing Salvatore Ferragamo, and Davina Woods share a moment at Paradise Casino; Nic Roldan, wearing Salvatore Ferragamo, advises two women on how to gamble. > Opposite page: India Paull, dressed in Salvatore Ferragamo, collects her winnings from the dealer after playing a game of blackjack.

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Painting It Red by introduction by

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L i a m M c M u ll a n

Elizabeth Meigher

Both the Boom Boom Room and Le Bain are located on the top of the Standard Hotel. > Opposite: Dream Downtown’s hotspots include the Electric Room and PH-D.

Pa tr i c k Mc m ull an

As the son of

New York City’s premier nightlife photographer, Liam McMullan had a childhood that included a trip to Warhol’s factory at the age of three weeks old, followed by continuous traveling with his famous father to movie premieres, parties, and galas throughout his teenage years. While many kids might have found themselves lost in the fray in such an intense and fast-paced scene, Liam has managed to carve his own place in that world. He maintains a unique sense of self that runs the gamut from playful, angelic-like child to mature adult well beyond his years. And Liam seems to relish leaving everyone guessing as he freely chooses which side of his character to reveal at any given moment. When Liam visits the Quest Media offices, we appreciate his genuine enthusiasm and straightforward approach. With zero

attitude and zero airs, Liam was willing to listen to our criteria, as well as contribute his own fresh, insightful ideas. We sense that buried beneath those shaggy locks lies a deep thinker with well-informed opinions. We also liked his mischievous grin and clever humor. Here, jack-of-all-trades Liam McMullan shares his favorite nighttime destinations. —E.M. > Amali There are areas in Manhattan that only the brave and the mad men go; I try to stay away when I can. One such area is the east side of midtown—I call it the “Middle East.” If you are able to slip away from the madness of Bergdorf, FAO Schwarz, Chanel, and Serendipity, there is a Greek restaurant called Amali that you should check out. I usually wouldn’t go to that area, but I make the pilgrimage at least twice a week to eat

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From top: the Boom Boom Room at the top of the Standard Hotel enjoys a panoramic view of the city; Amali, located in the “Middle East,” or midtown East, offers Mediterranean cuisine; though it’s difficult to locate the door to Double Seven, it’s worth the effort. > Opposite, from top: the lower level of Southern Hospitality’s Murray Hill location complements the sports bar upstairs; the bar at PH-D at the Dream Downtown is fully stocked; Southern Hospitality’s Murray Hill location is the place to go to watch the game.

the amazing food of former East Side Social Club chef Devon Gilroy and the delicious pastries from his fiancée, Erica. The team is headed up by the charming, bald former general manager of Resto, James Mallios. James has hand-picked some of the finest Greek and German wines in the world for Amali’s cellar, but the full experience is brought together by New York City restaurant pioneers Steve Tzolis and Nicola Kotsoni whose goal was to open a farm-to-table Mediterranean restaurant. Amali is located at 115 East 60th Street between Park and Lexington. The name, “Amali,” was inspired by a historical region that encompassed much of the modern-day Mediterranean. The term symbolizes the cultural commonality shared by many Mediterranean countries, including Greece, Italy, Croatia, Turkey, and Spain. Amali’s cuisine draws its inspiration from the region’s classic ingredients, distinctive flavors, and traditional dishes that form the Mediterranean dining tradition. Definitely worth checking out if you happen to be in the Middle East. > The Double Seven I was recently lucky enough to find myself in the dark, mysterious Double Seven in the Meatpacking District. I remember friends saying to me that they were on their way to the Double Seven, where I had never been. But I was feeling courageous so I walked down Gansevoort Street looking for 77 and saw no signs, just numbers, and a large group outside of 63. I asked the doorman where Double Seven was and he told me that this was it. I asked why it was called Double Seven and he said I would have to wait in line. Then, all of the sudden, Mark Baker showed up with a bevy of blondes, the velvet ropes opened, and he waved me in and told the doorman, “He’s cool.” Upon entering, I learned that I was cool...and so were the vibrations. It was not too loud and not too crowded and it was like Goldilocks sitting next to Mark Baker, with one blonde in her red lipstick and her black leather jacket—just right. I still have no idea why it’s called Double Seven and I don’t think anyone does. > The Electric Room If you thought you were cool at the Dream Downtown lobby lounge, walk out of the front door and into what looks like a parking lot ramp. Be sure to look at the walls featuring huge murals by Haculla on the way toward a little door and into the most exclusive new club in the city. The Electric Room is the only place I have forced anyone to come to. The last time I was there I was talking to Mick Jagger

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and I told him that I’m a musician and asked if he had any advice. He said: “Just keep rocking.” It’s been said somewhere that when an exclusive club opens at a swank new hotel, it will draw attention. When nightlife titan Nur Khan is behind it, it will draw hordes. Too bad only one hundred people out of the horde will make it in, but it’s not because they are cruel, it’s because it’s the law. > La Petite Maison For the past 21 years, La Petite Maison has stood as an iconic restaurant in the culinary scene of Nice, France. Celebrated owner Nicole Rubi has introduced a New York City location with co-owner—and famed restaurateur—David Barokas. Only open since December and it’s already served public figures like Alec Baldwin (actor and philanthropist), Bill Clinton (former president of the U.S.), Paul McCartney (member of the Beatles and the Wings), Leonardo DiCaprio (movie star and mega-producer), Aretha Franklin (singer, icon, and connoisseur), Nicolas Sarkozy (president of France), and last but never least Barbra Streisand (...like butter). At 13 West 54th Street, two floors of the old Rockefeller family townhouse have been converted into what translates as, “The Little House.” The two floors that make up the restaurant are accented with pictures of pop icons like the Beatles and Marilyn Monroe. The upstairs dining room overlooks an enclosed atrium with a large palm tree, rosemary bushes, and shutters at the entrance that evoke a sense of being in an outdoor space. It’s the closest you can get to Nice, France, without leaving Manhattan, and it is a very nice atmosphere year-round, or should I say “Niçoise” atmosphere? > PH-D If you haven’t been to Dream Downtown you have to see it for yourself. And like in any good dream, you will lose yourself. You may find yourself at the beach, or maybe you will be at Marble Lane having the steak of your dreams. Maybe you dreamed about going to medical school to attain the PhD of your dreams, but no amount of school will prepare you for the reality of PH-D at the Dream Downtown. With Alex Julian playing the role of Kojak, at the door you can trust that he will keep all the bad guys out of the Dream so that you can unwind and start counting sheep or models or your gratuity or whatever makes you feel relaxed. As you step out of the mirrored elevator you will be transported into what looks like a big-budget music video. Surrounded by a beautiful outside terrace spanning the length of the rooftop, midtown sparkles in the distance. > Southern Hospitality Most nights you will just find an amazing barbeque restaurant—but on special nights there is something in the air and something on Twitter. Justin Timberlake showed a group of lucky fans to his Southern Hospitality with a surprise FreeSol concert featuring J.T. himself rapping on the mic. Not content to merely be a singer-actor-restaurateur-fashion designer, J.T. signed Tennessee rap-rock entity FreeSol to his very own label under Interscope Records, called Tennman Records. While Justin is rapping and shaking his ass for screaming girls, J.T.’s business partners Trace Ayala and Eytan Sugarman are holding it down for the Southern gentlemen.

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La Petite Maison, located at 13 West 54th Street, boasts a sophisticated French menu. > Opposite: Nur Khanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Electric Room at the Dream Downtown has one of the toughest doors in New York City.

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The crowd cheered, boasting FreeSol fans like Khloe and Kim Kardashian as well as Timberlake’s beautiful In Time co-star, Amanda Seyfried. There is a downstairs lounge where the party can get wild. But try to maintain your own level of hospitality and drink responsibly and don’t pull out a cellphone camera! > The Top of the Standard For those who don’t know, the Boom Boom Room is the nightclub on the top of Andre Balázs’ swanky Standard Hotel and Le Bain is like Boom’s hipster sister on the other side of the floor. I, personally, have had experiences there bordering on the absurd, like the night

I saw a private performance by Patti LaBelle and Lady GaGa. Later that night, I ended up sitting across from Lady GaGa wearing a completely see-through outfit on the rooftop above Le Bain as her hoard of hipster followers clawed and sang over each other for her attention. I asked Lady GaGa’s “MaMa” what she thought of her daughter’s outfit and she said, “It’s what is inside that counts.” And that is certainly the case with the Standard Hotel—it’s one of those beautiful visions from a futuristic dream. Don’t forget: just because you are in Le Bain doesn’t always mean that you will get into Boom. —L.M.

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This page: One of the first steps involved in the handmade craftsmanship of the Tod’s iconic Gommino shoe. > Opposite page: A look from the Tod’s SpringSummer 2012 Collection with a leather trench, leather shorts, silk

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top, and Passante purse.

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A Touch Of Tod’s by

Daniel Cappello

Some things in this world can’t ever be replaced. Among those things for me is a pair of polished leather slip-ons. Simple, chic, slightly sheenier than I’d ever worn—definitely more daring than my de rigueur preppy loafers—they were my first pair of fashionable, I’ve-just-got-to-have-them kind of shoes. I still remember their supple give, the rubber pebbles running up the heel from the sole, and the perfectly shaped toe—not too round, but not too square. When I found them, living in Paris in the late ’90s, I was especially proud of my emerging Europeaninfluenced fashion sense. And those shoes, which I wore everywhere from Stockholm to Spain, from Florence to the French countryside, consummately defined my newfound chic. To be sure, a shoe has the power to transcend the foot and stir the soul. When it’s a shoe by Tod’s, it’s also imbued with a certain gioia di vivere—not to mention that uniquely Italian combination of quality and creativity, tradition and modernity, which

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This page, clockwise from top left: The making of the Tod’s iconic Gommino shoe; a craftsman works on the Tod’s classic Vachetta handbag; Diego Della Valle and Olivia Wilde at a Tod’s event at the Italian Embassy in Paris; the Gommino is brushed; and stitched; the sole of a shoe with treading; an advertising campaign featuring Lauren Remington Platt; the handle of the Vachetta is sewn. Opposite page: A craftsman cuts from some animal hide, piecing together a pair of Tod’s iconic Gommino shoes.

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This page: A limited-edition embellished Gommino for SpringSummer 2012 (above); Tod’s leather Agro sandal in various colors (below). > Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Julianne Moore launched her children’s book, Freckleface Strawberry Best Friends Forever, at Tod’s in New York; Jessica Biel at a dinner hosted by Elle and Tod’s at Château Marmont in Los Angeles; a Spring-Summer 2012 look; an ad campaign featuring Amanda Strong Boalt, an ardent fan of the Tod’s brand and of the Della Valle family; Annabelle Dexter Jones and Andre Saraiva at a Tod’s event in Paris; a Tod’s craftsman at work; Lauren Santo Domingo and creative director Derek Lam at a Tod’s event; Mamie Gummer with a Tod’s

BFA n yc. co m / Co ur te s y of To d’s

signature clutch; the Tod’s boutique at 650 Madison Avenue in New York.

fuses old-world craftsmanship with automatic élan. And everything by Tod’s, from its iconic shoes and handbags to its evolving line of ready-to-wear, is touched by intrinsic style savvy. Founded as a small, early-20th-century Italian shoe factory, Tod’s grew in the 1940s under Dorino Della Valle, the father of current president and CEO Diego Della Valle. The company achieved worldwide fame in late ’70s with the creation of its signature driving shoe, the “Gommino.” Diego Della Valle believed that people needed a beautiful, well-made shoe for any situation that life might summon, be it professional, casual, or elegant. Eventually, that singular shoe began to take shape, in what is now recognized the world over as the luxurious handstitched Gommino moccasin, with its trademark lightness of being and 133 rubber pebbles on the sole. By 1997, Della Valle had expanded the Tod’s collection with a line of bags that was as thoroughly classic yet modern as the shoes. With the bags, Tod’s catapulted to worldwide fame as a leading Italian brand of fine, handmade leather accessories. As Tod’s rose to the top of the luxury market, American customers grew increasingly enamored with the brand, and highprofile fans like Sienna Miller, Julia Roberts, Uma Thurman, and Gwyneth Paltrow contributed to its expanding popularity. Paltrow would eventually appear in the brand’s ad campaigns, as would other American women with recognizable names and highly regarded fashion sense, like Lauren Remington Platt and Amanda Strong Boalt. Recent ad campaigns have incorporated a mixture of international faces who summon the spirit of its cross-continental, multi-generational appeal. Amanda Brooks, the fashion director at Barneys New York, even styled a campaign by American photographer Elliott Erwitt. And the photographer and fashion muse Claiborne Swanson Frank made a starring role in “An Italian Moment,” the Spring-Summer 2011 campaign. “I will never forget that shoot in a charming little beach town outside of Rome,” Frank says, recalling a sun-kissed day spent sipping rosé. “It was one of those

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days where life seems to be in Technicolor and everything feels very much like a dream.” Indeed, that is very much the Tod’s appeal: Wearing its iconic shoes, handbags, and ready-to-wear makes you feel like you’re suspended in a modern, colorized version of Roman Holiday. Today, at its Casette D’Ete headquarters, Tod’s has built the largest production center for luxury footwear in Italy. Its once summer-specific Gommino has expanded into a shoe for all seasons, in a variety of colors, materials, and soles. Della Valle has nurtured the brand’s old-world sensibilities and craftsmanship into a markedly contemporary era, maintaining the original elegance that appeals to long-standing customers while evolving the brand with a sort of classic-hip appeal for a new generation, including Hollywood’s elite. Since 2006, when he was named creative director of Tod’s, CFDA award-winning designer Derek Lam has steadily expanded a range of ready-to-wear. And everyone who’s fallen for Tod’s—from Madison Avenue moms to Santa Monica celebrities, from Riviera-hopping to Rome-based Europeans—has grown to rely upon that inimitable Tod’s touch: the distinct blend of luxurious quality and undeniable style. u

This page: A look from the Spring-Summer 2012 Collection. > Opposite page:

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The making of Tod’s classic Vachetta handbag; an advertising campaign featuring Asia Baker and Claiborne Swanson Frank (inset).

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Timely Moments by

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Georgina Schaeffer

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“Hold Me Tight” (1956) by Alfred Wertheimer. > Opposite page: “A Unique Perspective” (2009) by Tony Cenicola. Both for The New York Times and selected

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by Michelle Smith.

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“Behind the Mask” (1965) by Arthur Brower. > Opposite, above: “Beach Health Class” (1933) from The New York Times archives. Both selected by Vera Wang. > Opposite, below: Prabal Gurung’s selections—“Ballet Slippers” (1992) by Andreaw Mohin (left); “Drive-In Movie” (1955) by Sam Falk (right).

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“A picture is worth a thousand words.” Or so the saying goes. Back in 2010, The New York Times asked five leading interior designers (Jonathan Adler, Thom Filicia, Laura Kirar, Kelly Wearstler, and Vincente Wolf) to create a unique collection of pictures. Each designer selected 10 favorite photographs from The New York Times’s extensive archives to form an exhibit titled “50 Photographs.” The collaboration was so successful that this past year The New York Times revisted the idea behind the exhibit, again tapping five trendsetting tastemakers to select another 10 photographs each—but, this time, they looked to fashion designers to contribute to another unique collection of photographs. Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) President Diane von Furstenberg and fellow CFDA members Prabal Gurung, Zac Posen, Michelle Smith, and Vera Wang dove deep

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Left: Diane von Furstenburg’s selections. from top: “Antic Meet” (2011); “Blue Illusion” (2008). Both by Andrea Mohin. > Opposite: “Panama City” (2006) by Angel Franco (above); “Tai Lake” (2007) by Chang W. Lee (below). Both selected by Zac Posen. All for The New York Times.

into the legendary archives, which date back to the 1880s, to select images that they felt coveyed elements of their aesthetic and style. Each designer approached the task with a different point of view. Prabal Gurung wanted his selection to be representative of moments in history, while Zac Posen focused his eye on what he called “beautiful pollution.” Michelle Smith selected photos of inspirational shapes and textures, while Vera Wang’s photos were more literal images of fashion and theater. The mini-curated collection showed at Bloomingdale’s in November and each of the 50 photographs is currently available for purchase online at the New York Times Store (nytstore. com). Every photo is available in three sizes, both framed and unframed, with a starting price of $169 and a percentage of the sales benefitting the CFDA. Indeed, each of these pictures does speak a thousand words—and together they tell a much larger narrative, and one that has New York City at its center. u

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Aspen

On December 21, 2011, Vogue, Fendi, Amy Phelan, and Carolyn Powers hosted over 100 guests at Phelan’s Aspen home for cocktails, hors d’oeuvres, and an exclusive presentation of the Fendi Spring 2012 Collection. A snow storm didn’t deter guests—including Jamie Tisch, Deborah Scott, Pam Alexander, Maria Bell, Denise Rich, Janet O’Grady, Richard Edwards, Billy Stolz, and Nancy Magoon—from previewing Fendi’s 36 new looks for spring, or from purchasing a selection of Fendi clothes and accessories, with all proceeds benefitting The Buddy Program.

1. Guests mingle at Amy Phelan’s home while models pose in looks from Fendi’s Spring 2012 Collection 2. Carolyn Powers and Mona Look-Mazza 3. Catherine Anne 4. Patrick Herning and Jamie Tisch 5. Mackenzie Phelan and Amy Phelan 6. Gary DePersia and Donna Livingston 7. Magnus Grimmett and Autumn Kent de Simone 8. Richard Edwards, Anne Vincent, John Scott, and Deborah Scott

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Andrew Saffir, founder of the Cinema Society, is well known for holding screenings for the best of the best in movies, whether they’re blockbusters or independant films. At the after-parties, Tinseltown mixes and mingles with the City That Never Sleeps over cocktails. Recently, the Cinema Society hosted an event for Haywire with BlackBerry Bold at Sons of Essex on January 17, an event for Man On A Ledge with Grey Goose at Acme on January 18, and an event for “Smash” with NBC Entertainment and Volvo at the Metropolitan Museum of Art on January 25.

1. Matthew Broderick, Marci Klein, and Andrew Reyniak 2. Hilary Rhoda and Andrew Saffir 3. Celine Rattray and Claudia Vick 4. Nicole Mellon and Dori Cooperman 5. Dean Winters and Amy Sacco 6. Louise Krause and Billy Magnussen 7. Steven Werther and Daniel Benedict 8. John Hickey, Sarah Jessica Parker, Mamie Gummer, and Will Chase 9. Emerson Barth and Kristian Laliberte

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Palm Beach

On December 29, 2011, the Young Friends of the American Red Cross presented the Red Cross Beach Bash with Lilly Pulitzer. Guests were invited to the Beach Club at 755 North County Road to celebrate pre-New Year’s Eve with a bang, enjoying a “Bayou” theme that offered everything from Cajun and Creole cookin’ to Mardi Gras beads. Chaired by Bobby Leidy, the event was attended by 400 people, flocking from Florida and New York and elsewhere to support the cause. Proceeds from the evening benefitted the American Red Cross.

1. Alexandra Porter 2. Taylor Collins and Kelly Murray 3. Bobby Leidy with Nancy and Bill Rollnick 4. Susanna Barasch with Jay and Emily Clifford 5. Terri Mersentes 6. David Adams and India Paull 7. Kent Anderson and Loy Anderson

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The Council of Fashion Designers of America’s (CFDA) superstars were on hand for the opening of the new exhibition of “IMPACT: 50 Years of the CFDA” at The Fashion Insititute of Technology. The exhibition features 80 pieces of CFDA members, but 450 designers are represented in this show curated by the museum’s own Patricia Mears. The current president, Diane von Furstenburg, lent one of her famous wrap-dresses from the 1970s for the show, a symbol of the working woman; while Oscar de la Renta, a past president, contributed a neon gown from his most recent collection.

1. Micky Boardman interviews Diane von Furstenburg. 2. Patricia Mears and Yeohlee. 3. IMPACT exhibition. 4. Carolina Herrera and Stan Herman 5. Oscar de la Renta 6. Isabel Toledo and Valerie Steele. 7. Narciso Roderiguez and Tory Burch

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Park City BCDF Pictures is dedicated to producing indepen-

dent films within the community in upstate New York. So far, the company has completed seven films, showing Bachelorette (Lizzy Caplan, Kirsten Dunst, and Isla Fisher), Liberal Arts (Zac Efron, Elizabeth Olsen, and Josh Radnor), and Predisposed (Jesse Eisenberg, Melissa Leo, and Tracy Morgan) at the 2012 Sundance Film Festival. BCDF Pictures celebrated its success with a gathering at the Stella Artois Lounge by Ally B at T-Mobile Google Music Village at the Lift which was attended by many of the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s actors and actresses.

1. Kirsten Dunst 2. Tracy Morgan, Megan Wollover, and Melissa Leo 3. Allison Janney and Josh Radnor 4. James Marsden and Hayes MacArthur 5. Elizabeth Olsen 6. Will Ferrell and Arden Myrin

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BEAUTY PROFILE This page: a vintage photo of Revi and Valery Joseph (left); The couple with their sons: Jagger, Julian, and Leonardo (right). > Opposite page: the interior of every Valery Joseph salon is inviting and sleek. A cut from Valery Joseph, or one of his stylists, will leave you smiling.

A Haircut Above “Whether it’s a little girl or a little guy or the CEO of an investment bank—I treat everyone the same,” says Valery Joseph, a stylist with salons at 820 Madison Avenue, 1044 Madison Avenue, and 957 Park Avenue, as well as a seasonal location at 2454 Main Street in Bridgehampton. His approach, coupled with his talent, invites a range of clients to flock to the Upper East Side for flattering ’do after flattering ’do. “Ninety-nine percent of our customers are ‘high fashion’ but they’re not very edgy. They’re very elegant, very classy,” says Revi Joseph, Valery’s wife and co-owner of the salons. Valery Joseph specializes in longer cuts, adding multiple layers—his signature!—that enhance the hair’s body and movement. Valery Joseph began his career in Israel, working at a salon in his neighborhood. “I fell in love with the service. How people come and leave super happy,” he says. Later, during his obligation to the Israeli Army, he acted as hairdresser to female and male soldiers.

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Elizabeth Quinn Brown

“Outside of the military, it cost a lot of money. So, they wanted the service at base,” says Valery. “It was really successful, attracting confidence from the women.” When he moved to New York in the ’90s to work at the Henri Elfessi Salon, the Upper East Side served as a warm welcome to the city. “I was Jewish, and I had a lot of Jewish clients. I was fresh from Israel so everyone was so warm, inviting me to parties and events,” says Valery. This loyalty continued to grow and, in 2002, Valery Joseph opened his own salon. Today, after appearing in Allure, Glamour, Lucky, and W (...and Quest and Q!), Valery continues to expand his business and is currently working on a line of products. But, despite his evolving success, he remembers his roots: “Working on the Upper East Side among these people here filled a part of me. It’s amazing,” says Valery. u

L i sa Be rg

“Ninety-nine percent of our customers are ‘high-fashion’ but not very edgy. They’re very elegant, very classy,” says Revi Joseph, Valery’s wife and co-owner of the salons. Valery Joseph specializes in longer cuts, adding multiple layers—his signature!—that enhance the hair’s body and movement.

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knew the effect her sultry Italian looks had on men, especially when enhanced with makeup. 2. make up for ever Why limit yourself to blacks and browns when you can intensify your lashes with dark blue, green (pictured), or plum Smoky Lash Couleur? $22. 3. burberry beauty Like the brand’s classic trench coat, the lip cover in Nude Rose No. 25 can be worn every day for a look that’s easy, breezy, beautiful; $30. 4. Yes to Nourish your locks by using a leave-in conditioner with argan oil from Yes to Carrots, an affordable line of organic, paraban-free products; $8.99. 5. hard candy Try this color duo for a just-pinched flush, with two tints designed to be worn separately or together; $6. 6. clé de peau beauté The Luminizing Face Enhancer provides the perfect amount of shimmer to shine; $95. 7. Oribe Whatever hue your hair, the Masque for Beautiful Color ensures top-notch tresses; $59. 8. chanel The “Lèvres Scintillantes” glossimers in pétillant (left) and bagatelle (right) will perfect your pout from the break of dawn to the descent of twilight; $28.50. 1. Sophia Loren

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1. ingrid bergman was an international actress, starring in American, Italian, and Swedish films. Despite her travels, she always knew how to look fresh-faced. 2. bliss Brighten the most weathered of skin with the Triple Oxygen + C Energizing Cream; $54. 3. hard candy For a varnish that looks cool in the snow and cooler in the sun, try “Just Nails” in frenzy; $4. 4. perricone md Acyl-Glutathione Eye Lid Serum, scientifically formulated to provide anti-aging benefits, is youth in a bottle; $115. 5. jo malone The “White Lilac & Rhubarb” fragrance—a contrast beloved by gardeners—is part of the London Blooms collection; $110. 6. bliss “fatgirlsoap” is a massage bar with a boost of caffeine, designed to tone your body by stimulating circulation; $18. 7. fresh with veuve clicquot The limitededition “Clicquot in the Snow” kit will keep you beautiful, before and après ski, with a package of products including “Citron de Vigne” (a scent inspired by the essence of champagne); $60.

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3 shouldn’t keep evenings on the town from heating up. Getting ready for galas and other social occasions has never been easier, thanks to some of our favorite designers and their inspired dresses, shoes, clutches, and “ice.” 1. lucille ball insisted that her husband, Desi Arnaz, be cast as her character’s spouse in I Love Lucy, a T.V. show adapted from her radio show My Favorite Husband. In spite of initial concerns that the Latin-born Arnaz wouldn’t appeal to American viewers, the duo won the heart of America. 2. stuart weitzman Stuart Weitzman’s blonde satin-bow sandal is the perfect fit for a lady. $398. 3. tiffany & co. The Lucida diamond pendant in platinum is all the jewelry you’ll need for that special benefit dinner. Price upon request. 4. carolina herrera What woman doesn’t want to dress up in Carolina Herrera? Herrera’s strapless blush tulle gown is like a fantasy come true. $6,990.

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Ca r lt on Da v i s fo r Ti f fan y & Co .

Winter is a season of cold, snow-white days, but that

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elevated American fashion to the international stage by wearing designs by U.S.-based Oleg Cassini. Here, she shimmers in a white dress with folds during her 1962 goodwill tour to India and Pakistan. 2. de grisogono This one-of-a-kind choker necklace features 1,088 black diamonds with 625 briolette-cut multicolored sapphires, all set in pink gold. Price upon request: 212.439.4220. 3. shoshanna Keep things bright in the folded silk cotton faille Sadie dress. $330. 4. Van Cleef & ARpels “Irene” earrings featuring diamonds and yellow sapphires set in 18-kt. white gold by Van Cleef & Arpels. Price upon request. 5. judith leiber Not only are some of Judith Leiber’s miniaudières part of the permanent design collections at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, but nearly every first lady dating back to 1953 has carried custom-made Judith Leiber bags to the presidential inauguration ceremonies. Why not add a piece from this truly iconic American brand to your own collection, like the Ritz Fizz clutch in light rose? $2,695. 1. jacqueline kennedy

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appeared in Show Boat (1951) as Julie LaVerne—an entertainer performing aboard the “Cotton Blossom,” a riverboat on the Mississippi River. Her song, “Can’t Help Lovin’ Dat Man,” is reprised throughout the musical by Jerome Kern and Oscar Hammerstein II. 2. harry winston The show-stopping diamond Lotus ring from Harry Winston totals 4.5 carats and is set in platinum. Price upon request: 800.988.4110. 3. roger vivier Roger Vivier’s Cage shoe, a bronze-leather strappy sandal, adds a touch of metallic luxe to any look. $925. 4. dennis basso Dress up in Dennis Basso’s multicolor silk chiffon gown. $9,000. 5. j.crew Fiona Kotur, the founder of Kotur handbags, has collaborated with J.Crew for a line of modern-day clutches. Crafted in snakeskin, the Colony clutch in burgundy is a modern collectible from a bygone era. Part of J.Crew Collection. $425.

1. Ava Gardner

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1. Zsa Zsa Gabor was a woman in a league of her own. There was something about her, as one writer once explained: “Zsa Zsa is unique. She’s a woman from the court of Louis XV who has somehow managed to live in the 20th century, undamaged by the PTA.” Indeed, Gabor was possessed of a dramatic flair of another time and place, but her sense of glamour remains an inspiration for any generation. 2. asprey The Pimlico clutch mini in indigo calfskin with “A” detail and magnetic closure. $1,350. 3. marchesa This teal silk gazar strapless draped bodice column gown from Marchesa is a surefire way of making an entrance they’ll never forget. $5,500. 4. angel sanchez Look stunning and sweet in Angel Sanchez’s sweetheart neckline Trikado gown with cascading ruffle detail from bodice to back. $4,400. 5. david yurman Let high glamour drip from your ears with David Yurman’s Rubellite Lantana Earrings in 18-kt. gold, diamonds, and rubellites. Price upon request.

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SHOPPING INDEX

> Baume & Mercier: 800.683.2286 or baume-et-mercier.com. > Bergdorf Goodman: 888.774.2424 or bergdorfgoodman.com. > Bliss: At Sephora, 877.SEPHORA or sephora.com. > Bloomingdale’s: 800.777.0000 or bloomingdales.com. > Bottega Veneta: 212.371.5511 or bottegaveneta.com. > Bulgari: 800.BVGLARI or bulgari.com. > Bumble and Bumble: bumbleandbumble.com. > Burberry Beauty: 212.407.7100 or burberry.com.

C > Carolina Herrera: 212.249.6552 or carolinaherrera.com. > Cartier: 212.446.3400 or cartier.com. > Chanel: 800.550.0005 or chanel.com. > Chloe: 212.717.8220 or chloe.com. > Christian Cota: At Saks Fifth Avenue, 212.938.1933, or christiancota.com. > Christian Dior: 212.249.5822 or dior.com. > Christian Louboutin: 212.396.1884 or christianlouboutin.com. > Clé de Peau: At Bergdorf Goodman, 888.774.2424 or bergdorfgoodman.com.

Après-ski, winter whites, furs...oh my. Shopping for winter, and all of its sports and occasions, can be quite a task—but a fun task, at that. From accessories to evening looks, don’t skimp when it comes to getting the latest and greatest out there. To help you along the way, we’ve gathered ways for you to find the products featured in our pages. Also, don’t forget to join the Quest and Q pages on Facebook, or follow our blog at questmag.com. Happy shopping!

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D > DANNIJO: 646.755.8909 or dannijo.com. > David Yurman: 877.908.1177 or davidyurman.com. > de Grisogono: 212.439.4220 or

> Angel Sanchez: angelsanchezusa.com.

degrisogono.com.

> Anne Fontaine: annefontaine.com.

> Delman: 886.237.3406 or delmanshoes.com.

> Ashley Pittman: At Bergdorf Goodman or

> Dennis Basso: 212.794.4500 or

ashleypittman.com.

dennisbasso.com.

> Asprey: 212.688.1811 or asprey.com.

> Diane von Furstenberg: 888.472.2383 or dvf.com.

> Azature: 888.494.6116 or azature.com.

> Dolce & Gabbana: 212.249.4100 or

B > Barneys New York: 888.222.7639 or barneys.com.

dolceandgabbana.com. > Douglas Hannant: 212.872.1701 or douglashannant.com.

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> Luis Morais: At Bergdorf Goodman or luismorais.com.

> Elie Tahari: 212.334.4441 or elietahari.com.

> LUSH: lush.com.

> Saks Fifth Avenue: 877.551.SAKS or

> Elizabeth and James: 212.382.1780 or

saksfifthavenue.com.

elizabethandjames.us.

> Etro: 212.317.9096 or etro.it.

> Manolo Blahnik: 212.582.3007 or

ferragamo.com.

manoloblahnik.com.

> Shoshanna: 212.719.0601 or shoshanna.com.

> Marc Jacobs: 212.343.1490 or

> Slane: slane.com.

> Fendi: 212.759.4646 or fendi.com.

marcjacobs.com.

> Sotheby’s Diamonds: 212.894.1400 or

> Fresh: 800.FRESH20 or fresh.com.

> Marchesa: At Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue,

sothebysdiamonds.com.

877.551.SAKS or saks.com.

> Strenesse Gabriele Strehle: At Anik Boutique,

> Marco Bicego: At Neiman Marcus or marcobicego.

212.861.9840, or strenesse.com.

com.

> Stuart Weitzman: 212.823.9560 or

> Marina B: 212.644.1155 or marinab.com.

stuartweitzman.com.

> Michael Kors: 800.908.1157 or

> Stubbs & Wootton: 212.249.5200 or

> Hanro: hanrousa.com.

michaelkors.com.

stubbsandwootton.com.

> Harry Winston: harrywinston.com.

> Milly: 212.921.7800 or millyny.com.

> Havaianas: 866.822.0962 or havaianas.com.

> Montblanc: 212.223.8888 or montblanc.com.

> Hermès: 800.441.4488 or hermes.com.

> Mrs. John L. Strong: 212.838.3775 or mrsstrong.com.

> Theory: 877.242.3317 or theory.com.

G > Gucci: 877.482.2430 or gucci.com.

> Hunter Boot: hunter-boot.com.

J > J. Mendel: 212.832.5830 or jmendel.com. > J.Crew: 800.562.0258 or jcrew.com.

> Salvatore Ferragamo: 866.908.1188 or

> Tibi: 212.966.3773 or tibi.com. > Tiffany & Co.: 561.659.6090 or tiffany.com.

> Neiman Marcus: 800.533.1312 or

> Tod’s: 650 Madison Ave.,

neimanmarcus.com.

212.644.5945, or tods.com. > Tommy Hilfiger: 917.237.0983 or usa.tommy.com.

> J.Press: 888.7.JPRESS or jpressonline.com.

> Jack Rogers: jackrogersusa.com.

> Oribe: oribe.com.

toryburch.com.

> Jimmy Choo: 866.JCHOO.US or jimmychoo.com.

> Oscar de la Renta: 888.782.6357 or

> Trina Turk for Grace Bay Club: 888.444.7748 or

> Jo Malone: 212.753.4000 or jomalone.com.

oscardelarenta.com.

www.trinaturk.com/gracebayclub.

> Palma: 305.439.3379 or palma-nyc.com.

> Van Astyn: 212.924.2276 or vanastyn.com.

> Kate Spade: 866.999.KATE or katespade.com.

> Perricone MD: 888.823.7837 or perriconemd.com.

> Van Cleef & Arpels: 877.VANCLEEF or

> Kendall Conrad: kendallconraddesign.com.

> Prada: 888.977.1900 or prada.com.

vancleef-arpels.com.

> Prism: At Barneys New York or prismlondon.com.

> VBH: 212.717.9800 or vbh-luxury.com.

> La Perla: 212.570.0050 and laperla.com.

> Lalique: 212.355.6550 or 607 Madison Ave.

> Rag & Bone: 212.278.8214 or rag-bone.com.

> Wempe: 212.397.9000 or wempe.com.

> Lilly Pulitzer: 888.PB.LILLY or lillypulitzer.com.

> Ralph Lauren: 888.475.7674 or ralphlauren.com.

> Links of London: 888.295.4657 or linksoflondon.com.

> Roger Vivier: 212.861.5371 or rogervivier.com.

> Louis Vuitton: 866.VUITTON or vuitton.com.

> Ruby Kobo: At Bergdorf Goodman Men’s Store or

> Yes To: 888.92.YESTO or yestocarrots.com.

> Luca Luca: 212.755.2444 or lucaluca.com.

rubykobo.com.

> Yves Saint Laurent: 212.832.7100 or ysl.com.

> Judith Leiber: 866.542.7167 or judithleiber.com.

> Tory Burch: 866.480.TORY or

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Capricorn Dec. 22 to Jan. 19 Recently, everything’s been about indulgence— or, rather, overindulgence—whether it’s long days at Bergdorf Goodman or long nights of Veuve Clicquot. It’s not time for a new year, but it’s time for a new you. Trust. You’ll feel more fulfilled watching the sun rise on your way to yoga than on your way from Westway.

Kate Moss

Aquarius Jan. 20 to Feb. 18

Cancer June 21 to July 22 You’ve been thinking a lot about reconnecting with someone from your past—an ex or an ex-friend? Maybe it’s as easy as picking up the phone. Maybe not. Schedule to meet for a walk through Central Park or over tea at the St. Regis. Don’t worry, whoever it is has been waiting to Princess Diana hear from you, too!

Ashton Kutcher

Throw your hands up at me, independant woman. You know the meaning of “me” time, even when you’re in a relationship. Whether on an afternoon at Equinox or a visit to “The Greatest Grid” at the Museum of the City of New York, spend some time with you, yourself, and you (and a skim latte).

Leo July 23 to Aug. 23 This month, you’re rolling in luck. Whether you score a couple of bucks on a scratch-off or something bigger and better, you are the new Charlie Sheen—#winning. But, remember, sharing is caring. How you treat others now will determine how others will treat you later, when the tables Mick Jagger have turned.

Olivia Palermo

Pisces Feb. 19 to Mar. 20 You’ve always been known as a leader and, this season, you’re making a name as a “trendsetter.” You know that bell-bottom is better than bootcut (duh) and that black and blue is a “do.” People will ask where you bought your bespoke overcoat or vintage minidress. Don’t be too generous, though...

Virgo Aug. 24 to Sept. 22 You know that your body is your temple. There isn’t a cleanse you haven’t tried—BluePrintCleanse? Done. Organic Avenue? Doner. But, sometimes it’s nice to be naughty. Plan a night out, complete with a round of tequila shots and a cigarette or two. Seriously. You’re making the Prince Harry rest of us look bad.

Alec Baldwin

Aries Mar. 21 to Apr. 19 Recently, you suffered through something—a bad break-up or, maybe, a disappointing bonus (sorry)? Whatever happened, you deserve a vacation. Take a trip to a B&B in New England where everything is cozy or Round Hill in Jamaica where everything is irie to regroup. After all, clear eyes, full heart, can’t lose.

Libra Sept. 23 to Oct. 22 In New York City, you are always looking for a job, a boyfriend, or an apartment. Apparently. You seem to have it all except for your own version of the Barbie Dream House. Whether you’re battling a roommate or—gasp!—bed bugs, now is the time to be proactive, because moving on Gwyneth Paltrow out translates to moving on up!

Taurus Apr. 20 to May 20

David Beckham

You’ve been working on upgrading your career for a while. And, oh, how the stars have aligned! Whatever you’ve been eyeing—be it a new job or a promotion—is coming your way. Reward yourself with a mani-pedi or a massage at Bliss Spa or The Spa at The Surrey before buckling down to prove you yourself.

Gemini May 21 to June 20

The Olsen Twins

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Now, I ain’t saying you’re a gold digger, but money has, lately, defined your happiness. Do you need to buy those Skechers? That Prada backpack? Remember the joy that the people in your life provide by planning an evening together at Freemans, Prune, or Sfoglia—an opportunity to reconnect, family-style.

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Scorpio Oct. 23 to Nov. 21 Karma’s a bitch, but you’re a bigger one. Lately, you’ve been feeling wronged. It’s in your nature to plot revenge, but it’s in your best interest to let the situation play out. Distract yourself, for now, with an afternoon at Barneys New York or an after-work drink at The Bar Downstairs. Karma— Anne Hathaway or you—will have the last word. Sagittarius Nov. 22 to Dec. 21 “A-ramble on, and now’s the time, the time is now,” sang Led Zeppelin. You’ve been feeling a little antsy. Maybe an adventure to another borough to the Brooklyn Flea? Or to another state (Dorrian’s Jersey City might be fun...?). Pack a lunch (and a friend) and head out for the day, Jake Gyllenhaal with or without a plan. Why not improvise?

%*45*/(6*4)"#-: 4 ) & 3 - & 8" ( / & 3 $ 0 .

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MONTBLANC. THE TIMEWRITERS.

In 1821, Nicolas Rieussec changed watchmaking forever with the invention of the first chronograph. Since “chronograph” literally means “writing time”, the Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph rewrites timepiece history. Crafted in the Montblanc Manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland, this masterpiece is a worthy tribute to its visionary namesake. Monopusher chronograph, self-winding manufacture movement. 30 min. and 60 sec. rotating disc counters fixed on the counter bridge.

m a d i s o n ave n u e

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soho

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the westchester

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montblanc.com