Q Winter 2015

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Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E WINTER ISSUE 2015 > $5.00

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WINTER CLASSICS

MANUELA BORMANERO AND A FRIEND IN CORTINA, 1976 PHOTOGRAPHED BY SLIM AARONS


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Seamlessly joined strands of 18k rose gold combine to form the Helioro ring. The rings range from classically simple to full pavĂŠ set diamonds, from $1,865. Also available are the Helioro Pendants on La Catena necklace or on a silk cord, from $3,745.


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Valuable assets, precious emotions. Fine gold is transformed into heart-stirring jewellery that looks good and feels good – jewellery that is striking without being loud. This jewellery is freshly conceived, yet so familiar that it seems to have existed forever. Jewellery BY KIM epitomises a universal and unmistakable design language that is understood by women all over the world. Ready for casting: 18-carat rose gold

Formula for eternity. Helioro owes its name to ‘Helios,’ the Greek sun god, and ‘oro,’ the Italian word for gold – and as an embodiment of innovation, it cannot fail to impress. Manufactured by a technically sophisticated process, Helioro BY KIM represents perfection of the goldsmith’s art. Its complex structure unites nine gold strands, apparently infinite sunbeams creating a unique symbol of eternity.

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40 LIVING LEGEND JESSICA LANGE Our intrepid chronicler Liz Smith takes a look as only she can at another legend in this issue with an examination of the “inexplicable and compelling” film and TV star Jessica Lange. 50 THE RISE OF MISHA NONOO A tale of passion, hard work, smarts, and serendipity. Alex R. Travers talks with New York–based designer Misha Nonoo about the beginnings of her fashion brand and her love of the arts.

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58 STUDIO 54 Opulence. Promiscuous hedonism. Naked women on horses. Liz Smith journeys back to a time when it was business as usual at New York’s legendary nightclub: Studio 54. 66 WHAT’S #TRENDING FOR SPRING Together, Alex R. Travers and Elizabeth Meigher round up the hottest trends and freshest looks for Spring 2015, reviewing—and rating—fashion shows from around the globe. 76 ON VIEW AT ART BASEL MIAMI Art and fashion were joined at the hip for the 13th go-round of the wildly popular Art Basel Miami Beach. Alex R. Travers outlines the hits and misses, chatting with artist Georgia Russell and Peter Dundas (artistic director of Emilio Pucci) about their contributions to the annual art fair.

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82 PRE-COLLETIONS IN REVIEW For the first time in Q, Alex R. Travers reviews the pre-collections, including Christian Dior’s “Esprit Dior,” Chanel’s “Paris-Salzburg,” and Dennis Basso’s Pre-Fall 2015. 86 THE LEGACY OF HALSTON Elizabeth Meigher recounts the rise of Iowa-born fashion designer Roy Halston Frowick (1932–1990) in praise of the recent release of HALSTON: Inventing American Fashion (Rizzoli).

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Manuela Bormanero and a friend holiday in the Italian ski resort of Cortina d’Ampezzo, March 1976. Photographed by Slim Aarons. © Hulton Archive/Getty Images.


G re a t J e w e l s H a v e a St or y 23.83 Carat Sapphire & Diamond Cluster Ring, by Van Cleef & Arpels


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25 NOSTALGIA From evenings of après-ski to grand Austrian balls, a glimpse at some beautiful scenes from winters past. 28 JEWELRY Tiffany & Co., Maison Martin Margiela, Roberto Coin, and more offer a selection of jewels worth cherishing. 30 CAPES Classic capes—like Dolce & Gabbana’s foxy throw-on, or Ralph Lauren’s nuanced poncho—offer fresh ways to cover up this season. 33 SHOES We promise to have you jumping for joy over our latest selection of the season’s best boots and shoes.

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34 ACCESSORIES Just in time for the release of the film Fifty Shades of Grey, a list of sexy and stylish accessories. 36 HANDBAGS Who isn’t excited about the debut of Louis Vuitton’s latest Petite Malle bag? 38 MEN’S APPAREL As temperatures drop this winter, we suggest topping off your look with a classic (or cool) coat. 94 Q FOCUS Fashionable parties, from a book party for Dinner Diaries in Los Angeles to an art contest in Miami.

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102 BEAUTY Elizabeth Quinn Brown reports on her experience with cryotherapy at Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo. 104 BEAUTY BODY & FACE Keep the winter blues at bay and your skin glowingly fresh with our roundup of products. 106 EVENING LOOKS A selection of the gowns and accessories we have in mind for the chicest winter looks. 110 SHOPPING INDEX To help you on your fashion journey, a listing of where to buy the looks featured in our pages.

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112 HOROSCOPES It’s the season of Sagittarius and Capricorn, but the question: Is Mercury in retrograde?



Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

S T Y L E

DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA

ELIZABETH MEIGHER

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

EDITOR

JAMES STOFFEL CREATIVE DIRECTOR

LILY HOAGLAND EXECUTIVE EDITOR

ELIZABETH QUINN BROWN FEATURE S EDITOR

ALEX TRAVERS A SSOCIATE FA SHION EDITOR

DANIEL CAPPELLO FA SHION DIRECTOR

VALERIA FOX ART DIRECTOR

ROBERT BENDER CHIEF TECHNOLOGY OFFICER

HILARY GEARY SOCIET Y EDITOR

JOANNA BAKER CO-FOUNDING EDITOR

Quest Media, LLC. S. CHRISTOPHER MEIGHER III CHAIRMAN AND C.E.O.

KATHLEEN SHERIDAN A SSI STANT TO THE C.E.O.

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BRUCIE BOALT EDWARD LEE CAVE BARBARA CORCORAN JED H. GARFIELD CLARK HALSTEAD HOWARD LORBER PAMELA LIEBMAN ELIZABETH STRIBLING ROGER W. TUCKERMAN PETER TURINO WILLIAM LIE ZECKENDORF SARAH BETH SHRAGER 917.576.1217 NEW YORK

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CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

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© QUEST MEDIA, LLC 2015. All rights reserved. Vol. 11, No. 1. Q–Quintessential Style is published quarterly, 4 times a year. Yearly subscription rate $32.00. Two-year rate $50.00. Q, 420 Madison Avenue, Penthouse, 16th floor, New York, NY 10017. 646.840.3404 fax 646.840.3408. For address changes, please call: 646.840.3404. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Q–Quintessential Style, 420 Madison Avenue, Penthouse, 16th floor, New York, NY 10017. SUBSCRIPTION INQUIRIES

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Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

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EDITOR’S LETTER

When “American Horror Story” first came out, I couldn’t get enough. Having attended one of New England’s traditional boarding schools, the idea of a prep school centered on training and fostering a coven of teenage witches seemed utterly intriguing (let’s be honest—parents never really know what goes on at those schools). I loved Emma Roberts (niece of Julia) soliloquizing as “millennial/generation Y” movie star Madison Montgomery and Frances Conroy as the well-traveled Myrtle Snow, head of the Witches’ Council. With Conroy’s shock of red hair and love of jewelry, haute couture, and all things stylish, she could have been a shoo-in for Vogue’s creative director, Grace Coddington. But none surpassed Jessica Lange as Head Witch In Charge Fiona Good. Fiona is eloquently evil, vulnerable, and wickedly provocative in her quest to maintain eternal life and “supreme” status. The show is dark and brooding and by no means a fairy tale, but something about it is also deliciously enticing and keeps you coming back for more—similar to the way I feel about January in New York City. In the latest edition of Winter Q, contributing editor Liz Smith delivers a captivating profile of “Living Legend” Jessica Lange, whom Smith describes as private and enigmatic in her personal life, although in her work often an “open wound, emotions almost too close to the surface…one of the most inexplicable and compelling stars of her time.” (Which is still our time.) Smith also offers a closer look at another legend—legendary nightclub Studio 54, which Smith herself frequented regularly. Mystery, intrigue and excitement will forever surround and abound about the famed watering hole, born in 1977 when Steve Rubell and Ian Schrager transformed the theater originally known as The Gallo Opera House into a nightclub. Arguably the best-known nightclub in the world, the venue played a formative role in the growth of disco music and nightclub culture. Aside from illegal drug use and illicit sexual liaisons, Studio 54 served as a central hub for the co-mingling of art, culture, and fashion. In fact, many credit 54 as the birthplace of today’s modern fashion world. And although many have tried, no nighttime destination open to my generation will ever compare. Speaking of fashion, Q’s own Alex Travers serves up a full platter of brand new fashion from all across the globe: Salzburg, Austria, Counterclockwise, from top right: cape by Hedi Slimane for for Chanel’s Métiers d’Art Pre-Fall 2015 show; Tokyo, for Christian Saint Laurent; Gucci’s Raindrop earrings in sterling silver with Dior’s Pre-Fall 2015… Fashion editor by day and well-known disc rhodium finish; diamond bar U-shaped ring by Hirotaka; a look jokey by night, I am happy to report that Travers has become an from Boss’s Spring 2015 ready-to-wer collection; Jessica Lange, expert fashion reporter and I am lucky to work with him. Don’t miss Emma Roberts, Jamie Brewer, Taissa Farmiga, and Gabourey his piece on today’s most style-worthy trends, as well as his profile Sidibe in “American Horror Story: Coven”; Saddle boots by on Misha Nonoo, the sweet and polished blonde behind refined, Sergio Rossi; Black Jade necklace in 18-kt. rose gold with green classic, and contemporary fashion label, Misha Nonoo. agate and diamonds by Roberto Coin; Jacqueline Bisset gets a With this issue of Q, we hope to inspire you with a collection of lift at Studio 54; Fairchild Baldwin’s signature evening “O” bag; fashion, jewelry, and accessories that will ignite your excitement for Misha Nonoo smiling backstage during her Spring 2015 show; the new year—a year filled with endless possibilities. Women après-ski in Gstaad, photographed by Slim Aarons, 1963.

ELIZABETH MEIGHER EDITOR


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CONTRIBUTORS

Liz Smith > Liz calls herself the 2,000-year-old gossip columnist. These days she’s been having fun with her website, which features 20 famous women: WowOWow.com (aimed at one of the most important demographics on the web—women who weren’t born yesterday!). In her latest column for Q, Liz takes a look at the career and life of Jessica Lange, “who truly uses the art of emoting to sort out her life, live through fantasy for a little while, enabling her to cope with her real life in such an understated fashion,” writes Smith. “She is an extraordinary actor, who in many ways, has only just begun.”

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Daniel Cappello > As the fashion director of Quest and Q, Daniel keeps an eye out for the latest fashion trends for both men and women, not to mention the most au courant must-have accessories. Throughout this issue, you’ll spot some of his selections for everything from jewel-studded shoes for her to fur-trimmed coats for him. Speaking of one of this season’s most coveted accessories, Q also journeys out west with Daniel as he stops in Los Angeles for a silver-plated party celebrating his latest book, Dinner Diaries: Reviving the Art of the Hostess Book (published by Assouline).

100 Elizabeth Quinn Brown > is the features editor of Quest and Q, where she also acts as beauty editor. For this issue, she travels to Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo in Monaco to report on cryotherapy while chronicling the scene for Q Focus and reading the stars for Horoscopes. When she isn’t testing products on her bottle-blonde hair, she covers events for the “Young and the Guest List” column in Quest and roots for the New York Rangers. She lives in the East Village, where she indulges in cappuccinos at Abraço and refuses to wear makeup to brunch.

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40 < Alex R. Travers In this issue, Alex talked with New York– based designer Misha Nonoo about the beginnings of her fashion label and what it takes to make it in today’s fast-paced business world. He also reviewed three pre-collections for Q: Chanel, Dior, and Dennis Basso (pg. 82). “Soon, I imagine, all of these Resort and Pre-Fall collections are going to walk off the showroom racks and onto the catwalks.” Recently back from Miami’s 13th go-round of Art Basel, he recapped a few of the art fair’s festivities (pg. 76). Alex lives in Yorkville, “because it’s walking distance from the Met.”

96 < Patrick McMullan The premiere nightlife photographer in New York City, longtime Quest and Q contributor Patrick McMullan’s work appears regularly in New York, Allure, Interview, Details, Paper, Hamptons, and Ocean Drive. A contributing editor at Vanity Fair, McMullan’s book, Kiss Kiss, is a compilation of over 1,000 black-and-white and color images from his vast body of work, capturing the famous, the infamous, the beautiful, the talented, and everyone in between puckering up. Said the late, great Andy Warhol, “If you don’t know Patrick McMullan, you ought to get out more!”.

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by Slim Aarons, 1964.

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This page: 1. Marianne Faithfull, the Honorable Desmond Guinness, and Mick Jagger sit on a sofa under a large gilt-framed painting of a woman in 18th century dress at Leixlip Castle, Ireland, 1968; 2. Brigitte Bardot in Gstaad with her husband, Gunther Sachs, and his son, Rolf; 3. Women après-ski in Gstaad, photographed by Slim Aarons, 1963; 4. Valentino Garavani at London Airport, 1968; 5. An Austrian Ball in Brussels featured in the book Haute Culture; 6. Candice Bergen, Vogue, 1967; 7. Princess Grace and Prince Rainier of Monaco in London, 1959. > Opposite page: 1. Whitney Tower, Diana Vreeland, and Jerry Hall photographed by Anton Perich at Studio 54; 2. Debbie Harry photographed by Chris Stein at the Gramercy Park Hotel, 1978; 3. Laurence Olivier and his wife, Vivien Leigh, arriving at an airport in Rome, 1953; 4. Jackie Kennedy strolling through Vail, Colorado, with members of her family in 1968; 5. Loulou de la Falaise, Yves Saint Laurent, and Bianca Jagger photographed by Guy Marineau at Loulou de la Falaise’s wedding reception in Paris, 1977; 6. Princess Grace of Monaco with her children, Princess Caroline, and Prince Albert, in Gstaad, 1962.

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Vi c to r B la ck m an / G et ty I ma ge s ; © B e ttm a n n / CO RBI S; Pop p e r f o to /G e tty Im ag e s

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3 Lee Radziwill, the socialite, public relations executive, and interior decorator, holds a coveted spot in the International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame. (She’s also the sister of another icon you’ll see gracing our pages: Jacqueline Kennedy.) Everyone was enthralled by Radziwill’s personal style, which could be sexy and elegant at the same time. She was quite the interior decorator, too; it’s said she decorated a home “for people who would not be there more than three days a year.” This winter, we’re offering up a selection of jewelry that you can wear just three days a year or, if you love the piece, every day.

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1. LJ CROSS Rose gold disk pendant with constellation of champagne diamonds; $12,000. 2. GUCCI The Raindrop earrings in sterling silver with rhodium finish; price upon request. 3. HUEB Change up your style with the Chameleon Ring, in 18-kt. white gold with diamonds and green onyx; price upon request. 4. ROBERTO COIN Black Jade necklace in 18-kt. rose gold with green agate and diamonds; $5,800. 5. J.CREW A mix of colors and glittery crystals makes the Slim Crystal Cuff a conversation starter; $39.50 at jcrew.com. 6. SEAMAN SCHEPPS Jazz things up with the Jazz Cuff in emeralds, sapphires, and diamonds, set in 18-kt. yellow gold; price upon request.


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4 3 Jane Birkin was born in 1964 in Marylebone, London, the daughter of English actress Judy Campbell and David Birkin, a Royal Navy lieutenant-commander and World War II spy. How very James Bond–esque! Funny, too, because Birkin did go on to marry John Barry, known for writing the music to numerous Bond films. But what really made this British beauty stand out was her fantasy-like style. When she met Hermès chief executive Jean-Louis Dumas, he decided to make a handbag for her. Today, those bags are coveted. Here, some jewelry also worth cherishing.

2 1. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Add a little gypset glamour with the Black Jet stone necklace from Brunello Cucinelli; $975. 2. HIROTAKA With its unique shape, you’re sure to love this short diamond bar U-shaped ring in 10-kt. yellow gold and diamonds; $552 at otteny.com. 3. WEMPE We can’t wrap our heads around the simple elegance of this Helioro xs BY KIM 18-kt. rose gold braided leather bracelet; $875 at Wempe, 700 Fifth Avenue. 4. MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA The double-finger bar ring; $460. 5. KENDRA SCOTT You’ll be the talk of the town with these Emmy earrings by Kendra Scott; $80 at kendrascott.com. 6. VERDURA The 18-kt. yellow gold Caged Bubbles ring; $9,500 at Verdura.

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A Stylish Alternative Jacqueline Kennedy was fashion’s first lady (not to mention the actual First Lady), offering her style, elegance, and grace to the world. With a true love for America’s cultural heritage, she is also remembered today for her contributions to the arts and the preservation of historic architecture, like saving Grand Central Terminal. Pictured here, we like to think of her as a stunning caped crusader— in control, eyes on the prize. So for the women who look up to Jackie Kennedy and her style, we say, try one of these capes on for size.

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1. SAINT LAURENT Sport the style of one of the chicest sleuths with this cape by Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent, in brown and beige houndstooth wool; $3,190 at select Saint Laurent locations. 2. DELPOZO Fresh off the runway from Josep Font’s Fall 2014 show for Delpozo, this nuanced cape-like coat is a great statement piece; price upon request. 3. RALPH LAUREN Treat yourself: the cashmere long sleeved T-neck ($995), cashmere/lycra leggings ($1,295), and cashmere/wool splittable coating cape ($4,595) are sure to keep you warm and looking your best when temperatures go from cold to bitter; available at select Ralph Lauren locations. 4. BURBERRY Add a new style to any look with this Burberry jacquard wrap; price upon request. 5. DOLCE & GABBANA Foxy: Dolce & Gabbana’s cape with embroidered fox; price upon request.

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4 2 1. UNITED NUDE Add some flair to your footwear with the Winter Eros bootie, in black and crystal comic; $399 at select United Nude stores or unitednude.com. 2. CHELSEA PARIS Make them swoon with envy when they see you in these Sting boots; $1,500. at chelseaparis.com. 3. STUART WEITZMAN In a unique smoke plaid suede, the Highstreet boot by Stuart Weitzman gives new meaning to high style; $795 at select Stuart Weitzman locations. 4. SERGIO ROSSI Strap on these over-the-knee Saddle boots by Sergio Rossi; $1,590 at barneys.com. 5. GIANVITO ROSSI The Buckle Strap Mid-Calf boot; $1,195. 6. LOUIS VUITTON From Nicolas Ghesquière’s first runway collection for Louis Vuitton, the Eternal Half Boot is a winter staple for any fashion-forward woman; $1,630 at select Louis Vuitton retail locations.

Best In Boots

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Jean Shrimpton defined her own vocabulary of style, both as a model and an actress. Born in the United Kingdom, she rose to become a symbol of London’s Swinging Sixties, helping launch and popularize the miniskirt. (She caused a sensation in Melbourne, Australia, when she arrived for the Victoria Derby wearing a smock dress, which ended a few inches above her knee.) Many even consider her to be the first supermodel. Regardless, one thing’s for sure: Shrimpton was a bombshell. She also had long, long legs and looked great in thigh-high boots. This season, we had Shrimpton in mind when were searching for these uniquely chic boots and booties you see here.

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She Had Her Kicks Lauren Hutton has a face you just don’t forget. Oh, that smile. The one that made her a true fashion icon and paved the way for future models like Lara Stone and Georgia May Jagger. Hutton was also a very successful actress who made her film debut in 1968 with Paper Lion. She went on to work with directors like John Carpenter and James Toback. Yes, skip 2014’s remake of The Gambler and watch Toback’s version with James Caan and Hutton. (A footnote, literally: Today, you can still spot Hutton on the streets of New York, wearing both high heels and sneakers.)

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6 1. MANOLO BLAHNIK Step out in these sleek striped snakeskin BB pumps; $935. 2. PAUL ANDREW Embossed with lizard and suede, the ATLAS shoe by CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund winner Paul Andrew is sure to impress; $875 at Barneys New York or modaoperandi.com. 3. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN The Galata Specchio PVC pump; $895. 4. RUPERT SANDERSON Que bella: the BELLE heel; $865 at rupertsanderson.com. 5. ROBERT CLERGERIE The Raffia Cocto Oxfords; $595. 6. FENDI The penny loafer gets an upgrade with Fendi’s Chameleon Loafer; $750. 7. CHANEL These tweed and lambskin sneakers offer a go-fast style; $1,350. 8. VALENTINO The Macramé Lace sneaker adds femininity to athletic footwear; $745.

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ACCESSORIES

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Shades Of Gray

Jean Seberg, pictured here waving bonjour to the camera without showing any sign of tristesse, was a stunning American actress with a worldwide presence. Seberg starred in 34 films, including Saint Joan, Lilith, and Moment to Moment. Of course, it was hard to find any moment when this Iowa-born beauty wasn’t looking breathtaking. By 1960, Seberg was a cultural icon in France, influencing the Parisian fashions every bit as much as Godard and Truffaut were influencing film. We hope our selection of accessories will have a similar impact on your wardrobe and your home.

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3 1. STELLA MCCARTNEY Before you head over to see Sam Taylor-Wood’s take on Fifty Shades of Grey this winter, try on these cat-like gray shades; price upon request. 2. SIMON PEARCE The pear pillar candles, with distressed rustic texture, are the perfect complement to your dining room or kitchen—or wherever you want to add a warm glow; $8 at simonpearce.com. 3. FORNASETTI The Viso Face bookends are great for any bibliophile; $270. 4. BARNEYS NEW YORK Wrap up in this cozy Barneys New York oversized scarf; $465 at barneys.com. 5. ARMAND DIRADOURIAN A new approach to luxury home goods: the Chevron Knit Pillow; $295. 6. BOTTEGA VENETA These Intrecciato gloves are both soft and sleek; $380 at select Bottega Veneta locations. 7. WOMMELSDROFF The chunky rib-knit Stella beanie, in gray cashmere; $375.

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ACCESSORIES

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5 1. THE ART OF SHAVING The Fusion Engraved Nickel Plated Shaving Set; $610 at artofshaving.com. 2. THE NORTH CIRCULAR Stay warm and stylish with this knit beanie; $125. 3. BOLLINGER Because toasting 2015 should be year-long: Bollinger’s R.D. 2002; $375. 4. RIMOWA Look out for RIMOWA’s new collaboration with Neville Wakefield, coming soon; learn more at rimowaedition.com. 5. ROLEX A classic Cellini; $19,400. 6. BOLDRINI SELLERIA This smart double-handed briefcase will keep everything in order; $625. 7. LECIA Take aim with the Lecia X Digital Compact Camera with Summilux 23mm f/1.7 ASPH Lens; price upon request. 5. A.P.C Simple and sweet: the smooth Saddle leather credit card holder; $110 at select A.P.C locations.

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Spy These Accessories Jimmy Stewart had a fashion sense as great as his acting technique. “He had the ability to talk naturally,” said Carey Grant of his onscreen presence. “He knew that in conversations people do often interrupt one another and it’s not always so easy to get a thought out. It took a little time for the sound men to get used to him, but he had an enormous impact.” Even if it took Hollywood some time to adapt to his acting, there was no doubt he looked always looked the part, like in Rear Window, one of the most stylish and exhilarating films of all time. Let these accessories lend you a bit of Stuart’s spirit this season.

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CLUTCHES

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Clutching Dearly Tippi Hedren had a successful modeling career in the 1950s and early 1960s, once appearing on the cover of Life magazine. She also made quite the entrée into film; Hitchcock’s terrifying thriller The Birds was Hedren’s big-screen debut. Right away, the master of suspense became her drama coach and gave her an education in filmmaking. Hitch, however, was hypnotized by her cool-blonde beauty and delighted in disturbing her innocence, transforming it shadowy. After The Birds, Hedren went on to star alongside Sean Connery in Marnie. It was always impossible to take your eyes off of her. (Just as we had a hard time taking our eyes off this selection of clutches.)

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1. FONTANA MILANO Crafted in a smooth blue calfskin, Fontana’s pochette clutch is cleverly styled with pin-dot and nailhead studs; $1,610. 2. MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA With touches of the exotic, you’ll cherish MMM’s sleek Python clutch; $2,680 at barneys.com. 3. MARNI The folded frame clutch looks even prettier in pink; $1,590. 4. RAUWOLF A scaly clutch; $2,110. 5. DEVI KROELL This winter, be sure to show off this lovely Cluster Wooden Clutch, in limoges and decorated with Swarovski crystals; $2,480. 6. LOUIS VUITTON Made to mimic the famous Vuitton trunk, the Petite Malle is one of the season’s hottest clutches; $5,200. 7. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Soft to the touch and fuzzy: the Cashmere Fur Wristlet by Brunello Cucinelli; $2,810.


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S T Y L E HANDBAGS

Winter’s Best Bags Marilyn Monroe stars in a film whose famous last line is, “Hey, nobody’s perfect.” But Monroe, who seems to reinvent herself every time you watch her on screen, comes pretty damn close. In Billy Wilder’s screwball classic, Some Like It Hot, Monroe plays Sugar Kane Kowalczyk, the ultimate babe. “Look how she moves,” says Jack Lemmon to Tony Curtis in the movie. “Like Jell-O on springs. She must have some sort of built-in motor.” Va-va-voom! This season, we went searching for bags with the same appeal.

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1. FAIRCHILD BALDWIN Made from Italian caviar leather and faux tortoise handles, Fairchild Baldwin’s signature evening “O” bag is something to cherish; $1,325 at fairchildbaldwin.com. 2. STUART WEITZMAN Trot around town with the TRINADID in tow, in Tmoro Alpine Nappa; $455 at select Stuart Weitzman locations. 3. CHLOÉ The Black Bat smooth calfskin Baylee bag, polished with gold-tone hardware and lined with a luxurious fabric, is perfect for a night out on the town; $2,050 at barneys.com or select Chloé locations. 4. REECE HUDSON Bridging the gap between high luxury and street style: the Bowery Small Duffle in bone and black leather; $1,065 at reecehudson.com or Bergdorf Goodman. 5. NINA GRISCOM The chic Mini Lily totes packs in a lot but remains lightweight; $1,200 at GiGi New York or ninagriscom.com.

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M E N ’ S A P PA R E L

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To Top It All Off Cary Grant was known for playing the role of the gentleman onscreen, but he could always be relied upon for pulling off the perfect gentleman in real life, too. Grant—pictured here in 1946 exiting Claridge’s, one of London’s swankiest hotels—was infallible at impeccable dress. From top hat to top coat, Grant understood the finer details of dressing like a man. When temperatures drop, why not top off your look with a classic coat of your own—or step it up a notch with a contemporary detail like fur panels or bold piping?

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1. MICHAEL BASTIAN Top coat in wool and cashmere; price upon request. 2. VALENTINO Valentino can always be counted on for the couture-quality touch, like bold furs on men’s jackets. 3. PRADA It’s all about the finer details—like bold piping—with Prada’s black top coat. 4. BALLY Single-breasted wool coat with buttons (similar styles available); $2,395. 5. GIEVES & HAWKES Find the perfect fit with Savile Row tailor Gieves & Hawkes, now at Bergdorf Goodman Men. 6. BILLY REID Bowery coat in heathered blue virgin wool; $995. 7. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Gray wool coat; $3,950. 8. HERMÈS Straight coat in black sheepskin; $15,100. 9. MICHAEL KORS Monochromatic Michael Kors coat, sweater, and scarf are the way to go. 10. RALPH LAUREN The Polo wooded wool toggle coat with rustic wooden-toggle-and-jute-loop placket; $995.

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Next to nothing.

Close To Everything That Matters.

2,400 acres. Only 67 homes. Your family’s private plantation.

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ew things passed along are of more value than devotion to outdoorsmanship. And few places are as majestic as the Pine Creek Sporting Club. Where great stretches of Florida wilderness set the stage for days filled with wildlife and life lessons. Nearly every second spent here is a celebration of simpler times, when sturdy boots and a trusty gun could take a man far, and at the same time, closer to everything he loves about living. Own a piece of old Florida, visit PineCreekSportingClub.com to schedule your private tour.

Ownership is limited. Stake your family’s claim today. Call or go online for a personal tour:

(561) 260-5319 | PineCreekSportingClub.com


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This page: Jessica Lange starring in King Kong, 1976. > Opposite page: Jessica Lange photographed by Douglas Kirkland, 1993; Jack Nicholson and Jessica Lange in The Postman Always Rings Twice, directed by Bob Rafelson, 1981.

“There are no explanations. There are no answers.” So said Jessica Lange, at some point in her life. That little quote, from whatever era Lange was speaking, pretty much sums up her on-and off-screen image. She is one of the most inexplicable and compelling stars of her time—which is still our time. A year or two ago, Jessica Lange accepted an Emmy for her role in the hugely popular, massively grotesque series “American Horror Story.” Lange was diffused in her acceptance—sweet, sexy, powerful, powerless, off-center, compellingly focused. A legendary hot-mess of misty vulnerability and an air of surprise. Some, who were not familiar with Jessica, criticized (Was she stoned?). Not me.

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Liz Smith

She had not changed a bit. During her entire career, Lange has held a hand up, shading her from the scorching sun of celebrity. She has accomplished something rare in the world of modern stardom—especially for a beautiful, sexy woman. She has maintained mystery and dignity. Her personal life has been singularly private. In her work, she is often an open wound, emotions almost too close to the surface. She may be one of those actors who truly uses the art of emoting to sort out her life, live through fantasy for a little while, enabling her to cope with her real life in such an understated fashion. Although Lange is only five-foot-seven, she appears taller, and was working as a model for Wilhelmina when, in classic

© Do u gla s Ki r k la n d/ Co r b i s

Living Legend Jessica Lange



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Hollywood fashion, the movie producer Dino De Laurentiis saw a photo of her and said, in effect: “Get me that girl!” And so she was got. Lange made her movie debut in the 1976 remake of King Kong. It was then much despised, and more so now, for reasons that have nothing to do with Jeff Bridges ridiculous beard, the bad script, and clumsy direction—you’ll recall instead of climbing the Empire State Building, the infatuated Kong mounted the Twin Towers. However, in the midst of this mess, Miss Lange immediately establishes the persona that would catapult her to superstardom just a few years later: a languid, vulnerable, provoking sexuality, and an innocence and tentative quality at odds with her bombshell body. And if this King Kong is remembered for anything, it will be the final scene, Lange, as Dwan, down from the Towers, standing by the body of Kong, enveloped by a screaming, intrusive, insensitive mob of paparazzi, as she herself weeps, realizing life as she ever knew it, is over. Forget the dead ape- it’s quite a metaphor for show business and stardom. And maybe Miss Lange herself made the connection? Next Lange appeared in All That Jazz, then the steamy The Postman Always Rings Twice with Jack Nicholson, and then

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the grand double-slam of Tootsie and Frances. In the former, she was the aching, delectable soft center of Sydney Pollack’s cynical, farcical look at actors (just as Marilyn Monroe was the humanity in Billy Wilder’s similarly cross-dressed Some Like It Hot.) Frances saw her as enacting the real-life tale of troubled movie actress Frances Farmer, whose unconventional approach to life and her career, not to mention a battle of will with her fierce mother, landed her in several mental facilities. Lange was Oscar-nominated for both Toostie as supporting actress, and Frances for lead. (In Frances she has the task, ably met, of going toe-to-toe with the legendary Method actress Kim Stanley as her mother.) She took the award for Tootsie. At this career high water mark, her early marriage to Paco Grande, a photographer, ended, and she began a romance with ballet’s Mikhail Baryshnikov—he was then pretty much at his peak, too. They were a ravishing couple, had a child, married, and just as her Oscar nominations began rolling in, they divorced. Quietly. She would soon meet and begin an enduring relationship with actor/playwright Sam Shepherd.

© Do u gla s Ki r k la n d/ Co r b i s; Ro n Gale lla/ Wi re I ma ge ; M ar i o A n zu on i / Re ute rs

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This page, clockwise from top left: Jessica Lange photographed by Douglas Kirkland, 1980; Lange and Dustin Hoffman in a scene from Tootsie, 1982; Lange and Ed Harris in Sweet Dreams, 1985; Lange photographed by Steven Meisel for Vanity Fair, 1991; Lange, Michael Sucsy, and Drew Barrymore photographed by Peter Stranks on the set of Grey Gardens, 2009; Bill Murray and Jessica Lange in Broken Flowers, 2005; Jessica Lange as the face of Marc Jacobs Beauty in a campaign shoot by David Sims; Mikhail Baryshnikov and Jessica Lange in Beverly Hills, 1982. > Opposite page: Jessica Lange arriving at the 18th annual Screen Actors Guild Awards in Los Angeles.


This spread, clockwise from top left: Jessica Lange photographed by Francis Ing, 1975; Lange and Sam Shepherd photographed by Donata Wenders on the set of Don’t Come Knocking, 2005; Lange as Elsa Mars in “American Horror Story: Freak Show”; Lange, Nick Nolte, and Juliette Lewis in Cape Fear, 1991; Lange as “Maggie the Cat” in a CBS Playhouse production of Tennessee Williams’s Cat on a Hot Tin Roof, 1984; Sam Shepard and Jessica Lange in New York, 1984; Dustin Hoffman and Jessica Lange in Tootsie, 1982; Lange and Gilles Millinaire photographed by Antonio Lopez, London, 1975; Lange and John Colicos in The Postman Always Rings Twice, 1981.


D a v id M cgo u gh / DM I / Th e LI FE P ictu re C o lle ctio n / Ge tty I m a ge s

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Marriage would eventually come—or did it?—after two children. Some say yes, others no. They lived away from the bright lights and rarely, if ever, discussed their relationship. They seemed to have separated within the past two years, but did they? Again, details are hard to pin down. Lange would garner acclaim for her T.V. performance of Maggie in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof and then another Oscar nomination essaying doomed country singer Patsy Cline in Sweet Dreams. The roles kept rolling in. Some, like Cape Fear were hilariously overwrought—as was the entire Martin Scorcese film. Others, such as Blue Sky playing the movie-deluded, promiscuous wife of an Army office in the 1950s—calling once again on that inescapable Monroe-like vulnerability and insecurity—won her the Oscar for Best Actress. Onstage she triumphed in London as Eugene O’Neill’s drug-addled matriarch, and on Broadway Lange was a devastating Blanche DuBois in Tennessee Williams’ A Streetcar Named Desire. Watching her on opening night, inhabiting every aspect of his desperate woman—including a deep sexuality that “time could not alter” as she declares furiously toward the climax, I felt surely the role had at last found its perfect interpreter. Time was marching on, but Lange frequently took long periods off the screen to attend to her family. Still, there were fine performances in Losing Isaiah (battling Halle Berry for the custody of a child)…Rob Roy (bravely surviving rape at the hands of Scottish lords)…Hush (as Gwyneth Paltrow’s murderously over-protective mother-in-law)…and Cousin Bette, icy as Balzac’s embittered poor relation. There was also another Oscar nomination for Music Box as a woman who is horrified to learn of her father’s Nazi past. And yet another Oscar nod for Country. (Mattering more than her nomination, was the introduction to her co-star, longtime love, Sam Shepard.) Despite her Oscars and industry position, Lange more often than not appeared in lower budget, personal projects which seemed to satisfy her, if not always critics and the box-office. Television, as prestigious and more challenging than feature films, offered her Sybil, Normal, and Grey Gardens reaping Golden Globe nominations and an Emmy (for “Gardens.”) And yet, for all this, she remained a mysterious figure, circumspect about her life with Sam Shepard, protective of her children. She published a fine book of her photography without fuss. Having once admitted to the dark side of her personality—frequent depression—she continued to live through her various works, and perservered through whatever her demons may have been, in blessed silence. Lange has never over-shared. In 2011, the FX Channel offered Lange the lead in a series aptly titled “American Horror Story.” Having now run four seasons, the cast has a clutch of regulars along with another revolving group of actors. Each season, the plot changes, but Lange is the fascinating center—as a malevolent nurse, WINTER 2015/

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Lange, and Joan Allen starring in Bonneville, 2006; Jessica Lange in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof, 1984; film still of Powers Boothe, Carrie Snodgress, Tommy Lee Jones, and Jessica Lange in Blue Sky, 1994; Jessica Lange in King Kong, 1976.

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Stu di o s In c .

Nicholson at The 34th Cannes Film Festival for The Postman Always Rings Twice, 1981; Sam Shepard and Jessica Lange in Crimes of the Heart, 1986; Kathy Bates, Jessica

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This page, clockwise from top left: Jessica Lange as the face of Marc Jacobs Beauty, photographed by David Sims, February, 2014; Bob Rafelson, Jessica Lange, and Jack


This page, clockwise from top left: Jessica Lange in All That Jazz, directed by

© J o n a th a n Sk ow/ CO RBI S

Bob Fosse, 1979; film still of Jessica Lange and Jack Nicholson in The Postman Always Rings Twice, 1981; Jeff Bridges as Jack Prescott and Jessica Lange as Dwan (her film debut) in King Kong, 1976; original movie poster for Sweet Dreams, starring Ed Harris and Jessica Lange, 1985; Jessica Lange and Armin Mueller-Stahl in Music Box, 1989; film still of Jessica Lange in King Kong, 1976; Jessica Lange as “Frances Farmer” and Sam Shepard as “Harry York” in Frances, 1982; Jessica Lange photographed by Jonathan Skow, 2003.


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or a witch or the Marlene Dietrich-styled head of a traveling freak show. Maturity has sharpened her striking bone structure, but the off-center emotionality, the vulnerability, the undeniable sensual appeal is still very much present. Even in the harsh, wicked characters she portrays in “American Horror Story,” the hapless heroine of King Kong is never really that far away. Jessica Lange has closets and shelves full of awards. But apparently, that is not where she “lives.” Given her looks and talent, in a different time, with a different, less reticent personality, she might have become what we think of as a “greater star.” A red-carpet star with romances and scandals and non-stop interviews about the “pain” of revealing her intimate secrets. But she has, in opposition of Oscar Wilde’s dictum, saved her life for herself and her loved ones, and her genius for her art. I believe the great Jessica Lange made the correct decision. She is an extraordinary and unique actor, who in many ways, has only just begun. I can’t wait for the third act, myself. u


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This page: Jessica Lange as “Supreme” witch Fiona Good in “American Horror Story: Coven”; Lange photographed by Simon Chaput, 2008. > Opposite page, top to bottom: Jessica Lange, Emma Roberts, Jamie Brewer, Taissa Farmiga and Gabourey Sidibe in “American Horror Story: Coven”; Lange and Meryl Streep at The 55th Annual Academy Awards, 1983; Armin Mueller-Stahl, Lukas Haas and Jessica Lange in Music Box, 1989.


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Cour tesy of Misha Nonoo; Julio Gabboa f or BFAnyc.com

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The Rise Of Misha Nonoo by

Alex R. TRAveRs


This page: A sleeveless dress from Misha Nonoo’s Spring 2015 runway show, for which she collaborated with Brooklynbased artist Dustin Yellin. > Opposite page: Misha Nonoo smiles backstage with her models during the show.

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This page: In 2012, Misha Nonoo was awarded the Fashion Group International’s Rising Star award for Women’s Ready-to-Wear. > Opposite page: Front-row guests watch a model walk at Misha Nonoo’s Spring 2015 runway show, which took place in New York. An appreciation for quality,

Misha Nonoo

is trying to find the right words. She thinks for a moment. “It was a happy accident.” About five years ago, Nonoo, who was then working at a small tailoring atelier in Manhattan’s Garment District, went out to meet some of her girlfriends for brunch. She recalled a conversation. “I love your jacket,” a friend said to Nonoo. She replied, “Oh, actually, I made it.” “My friend is a buyer at Intermix. You should show them.” Shortly after their chat, Nonoo secured an appointment at the multi-brand fashion retailer. She was hoping to receive some feedback on her capsule collection, which consisted of about eight pieces, all jackets and coats. It was something she was doing on the side—“weekends, evenings, before work.” When she met with Intermix, Nonoo received some exciting news—the retailer asked to purchase her collection. Then, someone added, “My friend works for Women’s Wear Daily. You should get a press piece. They’re doing a story on new designers to watch.” At the time, Misha Nonoo did not have a business set up. “I

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didn’t have an LLC. I didn’t have a lawyer. I didn’t have any of that,” she recalls. She only had samples. Suddenly, the designer had orders to fill. Her brand was born. Misha Nonoo grew up near the Western shores of the Persian Gulf, in Bahrain. While Nonoo, an only child, was living in the Middle East, she and her parents did a lot of traveling—to Asia, to Europe—and the family would always spend their summers in the United Kingdom, with Misha’s grandmother. Memory is a prime interest of Nonoo, the designer. She remembers the colors of Bahrain vividly. “When you go to the souks, they have these amazing pyramids of tamarack and saffron.” She also mentions the shades of the deserts. “I would say that definitely influenced me from a design perspective.” When Misha was 11 years old, her family moved from Bahrain to London. “I had come from a co-ed school and for me everything became very regimented. The English educational system is known for being quite rigid and I had grown up in this slightly more bohemian environment, even though I went to an English school. After a year, I got used to it and I completely loved it.” Though Nonoo was interested in sports and business and history, she had another fascination. “I wanted to work in fashion,” she says. “I wanted to have my own label. But that seemed so far away at the age of 17, which is when I went to college.” Nonoo studied business at London’s European Business School and at the École Supérieure du Commerce Extérieur in Paris, although she admits that she was always more creative than business-minded. “My parents were like, ‘Maybe try business school and see where that takes you and if you feel strongly about design go work in a design house afterward.’ It was actually their advice that I took. That’s how I was led down [my] path.” Most of Nonoo’s hands-on fashion experience came when she moved to New York after college. This is when she was working in the Garment District. “I learned everything from product aspects to basic pattern making. And, at the same time, I was assisting the head designer, so I just shadowed everything she did, from start to finish. Because it was such a small team, I got a very comprehensive overview of what it takes to run a business in fashion.” After two years of working there, she began crafting her item-driven collection of coats and jackets on the side—the ones that Intermix ended up buying. “It was daunting, but there is also such a beauty in being

Ke lly S tua r t; N at as h a J a h an gi r

tailoring, and worldly travel is the essence of the Misha Nonoo label.



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young and naïve and not knowing what you’re getting yourself into. I was like, I can do this.” Her first full collection was for the Fall-Winter 2011 season. After that, her career skyrocketed. She started putting on runway shows in New York. She was accepted into the CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund and its incubator program. She launched her own e-commerce site. Nonoo made all the right moves for a young designer working and living in New York. But what makes Misha Nonoo stand out among her competitors and contemporaries is her purity of style and innovation. There’s a certain romantic quality to her clothes and her cinematic runway shows. She tells me that a lot of her business is based on “contemporary classics.” And when Nonoo talks

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about her love of fashion and the arts, I’m pleasantly surprised by how those items relate to her brand’s mission. “Great contemporary art is a huge part of history,” she explains. “It’s almost like looking at history being made now, from an artistic point of view. In 200 years’ time, people will be looking at [Gerhard] Richter’s art and that fascinates me—this idea of how something can stand the test of time and how modernity can age.” Is that what she hopes her fashion line can achieve? “It’s always been a very important aspect to me. It’s really about pieces that are going to last in your wardrobe, not only in terms of the styling and the details—it will be relevant in times to come—but the quality is there for it to really still last.” u

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This page: Two looks from Misha Nonoo’s Spring 2015 collection. > Opposite page: Models pose backstage before the show.


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This page: More looks from the Spring 2015 runway show. > Opposite page: A backstage outtake, featuring one of Misha Nonoo’s prints, part of her collaboration with the artist Dustin Yellin.


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Studio 54 “America is the only country that went from barbarism to decadence without civilization in between,” said Oscar Wilde. by

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Liz Smith


An dy Wa rh o l Fo u n da tio n f o r th e Visu a l Ar ts

This page: Gossip columnist and National Enquirer contributor R. Couri Hay with a female friend at Studio 54, gelatin silver print by Andy Warhol. > Opposite page: Nightlife impresario and club owner Steve Rubell poses for a photo inside of Studio 54.


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This page: Ara Gallant and Diane von Furstenberg attend the party for Egon Von Furstenberg’s book The Power Look at Studio 54, September 25, 1978. > Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Jacqueline Bisset gets a lift at Studio 54; a Studio 54 bartender; David Bowie at Studio 54, 1976; Andy Warhol, Calvin Klein, Brooke Shields, and Steve Rubell at Studio 54, photographed by Adam Scull, 1981; a shot of Studio 54 by Hasse Persson; Jane Holzer and Bob Colacello at Studio 54, gelatin silver print by Andy Warhol, December, 1980.


A n dy Wa r h o l Fou n da ti o n f o r th e Vi s u al Ar ts; Re x Fe a tu re s

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This page, clockwise from top left: Designer Roy Halston with Bianca and Mick Jagger at Studio 54 for Bianca’s birthday party in 1977; Diana Ross belts out a song from atop the disco booth at Studio 54; Liza Minnelli, Elizabeth Taylor, and former first lady Betty Ford at Studio 54, 1979; Lorna Luft (Judy Garland’s daughter), Jerry Hall, Andy Warhol, Debbie Harry, Truman Capote, and Paloma Picasso at Studio 54, 1979; Farrah Fawcett dancing with her father at Studio 54, 1978; Bianca Jagger snuggles up to Halston at her birthday party while husband Mick looks on, 1977. > Opposite page: James Curley Mellon Dancing at Studio 54, gelatin silver print by Andy Warhol.


Ro b i n P lat ze r /Tw i n I m age s & O n li n e U SA/ G e tty ; R i ch a rd Co r k e r y /NY D ai l y N e w s Ar ch i ve vi a Getty Imag es; Key stone-France/Gamma-Key stone via Getty Imag es

Speaking of decadence, that word has been used and over-used, but perhaps not without cause in the fabulous 1970s. From 1973 to 1983, the economy was tanking, big cities were going under, and even those not actually “going under” were dirty, grimy and not terribly pretty. But the sexual revolution, which had flowered in the late 1960s, came to full bloom in the 1970s. Unprotected sex was everywhere. And so was glamour. The girly, shapeless miniskirts, which looked good on Twiggy, the low-heeled shoes, the “natural” hairstyles—these gave way to retro updates of the 1940s and ’50s: close-fitting, low-cut gowns, platform heels, shoulder pads, glitter, beading, pants so tight you knew a guy’s religion. (And hair so high you knew you were close to God!) And, oh, that incessant disco beat. We were all Alicia Bridges, we all loved the nightlife, we loved to boogie! Typifying all of it was New York’s Studio 54. In a city rife with crime, porno shops, and a luridly tempting Times Square, this nightclub became the cynosure of every eye… the gossip column item everyone wanted to read about and be in…the place to be if you were anybody who counted in the world of celebrity. And, for anybody else who dressed well enough and had the proper “style.” (Ah, the memorable velvet rope, where many a tear was shed after being rejected!) There were naked ladies on horses and perhaps even naked horses on ladies. You could dance in a jockstrap or bare-breasted. As long as you looked good—or were famous enough—it was cool. Now, Studio 54 and the ’70s are making a big comeback. Mark Fleischman, who owned Studio 54 from 1981 until its closing a few years later, is penning a book which he says will expose 54’s “dark side.” As opposed to what—the lighter side of the giant cocaine spoon that floated above the dance floor? Fleishman owned the spot after the late Steve Rubell and his partner Ian Schrager had troubles and bailed. By 1981, the fragrant bloom of the “dark” was fading anyway. Mark is not going to tell us anything we don’t already know. Ian Schrager is putting together a lush coffee-table book about Studio 54. Fleishman says, “Schrager is trying to sugar-coat” the era. Oh, please. Ian’s will be a book of fabulous photos. Everybody still alive knows what went on. Nobody needs to sugar-coat anything. At its height, Studio 54 was, in its opulent, promiscuous hedonism, often compared to Berlin before World War II— anything goes, and then it went, in a cataclysm. For Berlin, that apocalypse was the war. For Studio 54, it was AIDS. Nobody knew that what was happening in the dark balconies of the nightclub was more than casual sex and/or recreational drug-taking. A dark, deadly stranger haunted 54, and indeed the entire country and the world. And the privileged, who went downstairs, where even greater dangers lurked. AIDS ended the carefree sexuality of a generation. We’ll never be quite like that again. I will leave it to you to judge if we ever should be.

But I would be a hypocrite in denying the good times I had during those years. The glamorous Studio 54 nights informed my burgeoning career as a gossip columnist. Where could more gossip be gathered? Where could one see more stars, more real star, and so fabulously unfettered, in those days before iPhones and the Internet and Twitter? Where, my darlings, could you see Liza Minnelli, Elizabeth Taylor, and Betty Ford sitting together on a divan? Liza smoking, Liz at her fattest, Betty Ford bemused. (Just a few years later, Taylor would put Betty Ford’s rehab clinic on the map, being the first celeb to openly seek help for her addictions.) Halston…Bianca…Mick…Cher…Andy…Calvin…Michael Jackson…Diana Ross…Jack and Anjelica. Everybody who was somebody, wanted to be somebody, had been somebody, begged to be allowed to pass the infamous, judgmental velvet rope. Oh, and all those beautiful waiters and bartenders in their little shorts! Those were the days, my friend. We thought they’d never end. u WINTER 2015/

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Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Ar ts; John Roca/New York Daily News; Michael Norcia/

Sygma/Corbis; John Kelly/Ebet Rober ts/Redferns/Getty; AP Photo/G. Paul Burnett

This page: Cornelia Guest and Adam Lindemann at Studio 54, gelatin silver print by Andy Warhol; a cigarette girl at Studio 54’s grand reopening in 1981. > Opposite page, clockwise: Inside of Studio 54, photographed by Michael Norcia, 1978; the entrance of Studio 54 nightclub in New York City, circa 1975; Elton John, Alana Hamilton, and Rod Stewart arrive at Studio 54 for a party given by RCA Records, 1978.

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C o u r te sy o f re sp e ctive de sign e rs

S a i n t L a u re n t

What’s #Trending For Spring by

Alex R. TRAveRs

And

elizAbeTh MeigheR

Psychedelic Using kaleidoscopic prints, several designers took a trip back to a time when free-spirited bonhomie flourished.


Lo u i s Vu i t t o n

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Blugirl Joni Mitchell wrote iconic love songs. But she was always crafting her own a star of the visua album covers and l arts, too, sporting a bohemi an style that defin ed a generation

.

Ro b e r t o C a va l l i

Stella McCartney

E t ro To m m y H i l f i g e r

Va l e n t i n o

Pucci

D r i e s Va n N o t e n

Elie Saab

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White On the catwalks this season, white looked sinfully winsome, with many designers skirting the predictable symbolism of undis-

Co ur te s y of re s pe cti ve de s i gn e r s

Dennis Basso

turbed innocence.


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Ke n z o Haider Ackermann

C a r o l i n a H e r re ra

AVetid royniTw ca ig Lagy kepa w as in tsbeth au e tif peulrf ec w hamt od antdpimctysurteerio Ralo ym okon . Li of us dke th,e Chth anedl mer odm el’s igfa htmca e,llit“a seem smsoo thth ’60s e hast sw , shiningiyng rdyl -beoisp gi rl, lere dad anw d or lold adwed idewth ith is si sen.as”on.

Calvin Klein

P h ot 0 C re di t

Mugler

Ro l a n d M o u re t

Lo e w e

C h r i s t o p h e r Ra e b u r n

Issey Miyake

Vi o n n e t

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Miu Miu

Blue A color often associated with spirit and intellect, this season’s blues were simply

Mugler

With a sm ile like a n angel a Marilyn M nd an un onroe bec deniable ame one va-va-vo of Hollyw a star wh om, ood’s mo o captiva st adored ted audie icons— nces in a multitud e of roles.

Stella MCartney

P o l o Ra l p h L a u re n

heavenly.


Re b e c c a M i n k o f f

G u y L a ro c h e

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Boss

sand dollars pay you a thou where they’ll e down ac pl a d’s e caus I turned “Hollywoo ul. I know be e nts for your so ro ce on 50 M d n an ily , ar ss M for a ki for the 50.” — and held out the first offer

Ve ro n i c a B e a r d

C ou r te sy o f re sp e ct i ve d e si gn e r s

Vi k t o r & Ro l f

Chloé

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Osman

Erdem

S i m o n e Ro c h a

Céline

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Damir Doma

Christopher Kane

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Black At the Spring 2015 shows, black was utterly provocative—especially on Altuzarra’s catwalk, where strategic slits in B o t t e g a Ve n e t a

his bias-cut gowns offered

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Richard Nicoll

Giles

Agnona

A l t u z a r ra

glimpses of flesh.


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Balenciaga

D o n n a K a ra n

C o u r te sy o f re sp e ctive de sign e rs

K n ow n fo r h e r deep L iz a b e th S c o vo ic e and sm tt w a s fi lm n o k y, s o ir ’s u u lt r y lo ove r 2 lt im a te oks, 2 fe a tu dame, re fi lm appea s as a r in g in le a d in g la d y .


Acne Studios Marc Jacobs

CĂŠline

Gucci

J a s o n Wu

P ra b a l G u r u n g

Atten-hut, Pr

Lo u i s Vu i t t o n

Chanel

Vi c t o r i a B e c k h a m

ivate Benjam in! If anyone looked grea it was Gold t in uniform ie Hawn—th , e stunning film director American ac , producer, tress, and occasion al singer who Academy Aw ard in 1969 won an for her role in Cactus Fl ower.


Military Utility and function

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Ra l p h L a u re n

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became things of beauty this season, as fashion houses plucked elements and ideas from military tailoring and subverted tradition with

C ou r te sy o f re sp e cti ve de si gn e r s

tantalizing twists.

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© Ar t Ba se l

This page: Larry Gagosian’s booth at Art Basel Miami Beach, featuring works by the artist Jeff Koons. > Opposite page: Organized in association with David Gryn, director of London’s Artprojx, the film sector of Art Basel Miami Beach presents a dynamic program of movies.

On View At Art Basel Miami by

Alex R. TRAveRs


Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

© Ar t B as el

The mega-collectors were in the building. So was the fashion pack. It was no different from previous years in that gallerists, artists, and culture fanatics descended en masse to Miami for the opening day of the 13th presentation of Art Basel Miami Beach. In the V.I.P. lounge at the Miami Convention Center, the Scottish artist Georgia Russell was talking about her experiences at Maison Ruinart, the oldest established champagne house. As old as Catherine the Great! Russell was commissioned by Ruinart to create a few works that characterized the

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maison. Some were champagne cases. Others were sprawling sculptures, Russell’s take on Ruinart’s historic ledgers. Her large-scale works were compelling and eye-catching, precise dissections of printed matter made hypnotic. When we talked, she told me about her first visit to the Ruinart cellars. “You go down to these amazing caves—they’re almost like cave cathedrals—and they’re all storing these bottles of champagne everywhere. I was inspired by the constant repetitive chiseling that excavated the spaces.” I asked if splicing and cutting all day was relaxing for her. WINTER 2015/

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Above, left to right: Scottish artist Georgia Russell’s collaboration with Ruinart Champagne was on view at Art Basel Miami Beach V.I.P.’s lounge; revelers raise a glass of Bombay Sapphire at the Soho Beach House to celebrate the fifth annual Bombay Sapphire Artisan Series; Ryan McGinley at W magazine’s Art party for Ian Schrager’s Miami Beach EDITION; Emilio Pucci desiger Peter Dundas (center), stands with Rossella Bisazza (left) and Cinzia Bernasconi at the BISAZZA Wears Emilio Pucci cocktail reception for Miami Art Week on December 4; one of Georgia Russell’s works on view at Art Basel Miami Beach.

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Duncan Brinkhurst; Getty Imag es; BFAnyc. co m

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L


Above: Jeppe Hein’s “Mirror Angle Fragments (3x60°)” (2014), in high-polished stainless steel and aluminum, caught the attention of many at Johann König’s booth. Below: For Art Public’s opening night, the artist Jose Carlos Martinat’s showcased his impressive work “Manifiestos” (2014), a mechanical installation that emits “sounds of art.” The multi-media piece consists of 15 megaphones © Ar t Basel

with a basic system: bicycle wheels, engines, and other elements, all of which allow the megaphones to swing as a pendulum. The manifestos are extracted from texts found in the web, using software that converts each text into audio.


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“It’s mostly calming. As long as I don’t overdo it too much in one day.” Unfortunately, at Art Basel, it’s very easy to overwhelm yourself. Especially at the gigantic, labyrinthian convention center, where thousands of works are on display. There wasn’t much surprise from the major gallerists this year: Larry Gagosian was showing works by Jeff Koons. David Zwiner had works by Chris Ofili. Of course, both Koons and Ofili had major museum shows in 2014. Great ones. Later that evening, Bisazza, a luxury design brand known for its mosaics, hosted an event with Emilio Pucci. The cocktail party, held at Bisazza’s Miami Design District location, showcased a new collection of mosaics inspired by a few of the late Emilio Pucci’s patterns. One was based on Pucci’s “Ondre” scarf. This being Miami, the women in attendance naturally sported eye-popping colors and showed off some skin. “My kind of girls,” said Peter Dundas, Emilio Pucci’s artistic director, who expressed that he’s also been toying with the idea of urbanity for the upcoming Fall 2015 collection in Milan. “I was a bit of a hippie last summer,” he admitted. The next morning, I headed over to Collins Park to see the works at Art Public, Art Basel’s outdoor spectacle. There was a giant inflatable speech bubble that said “TRUTH.” Meh. I did, however, like Jeppe Hein’s “Mirror Angle Fragments (3x60°)” (2014), a work that challenged the traditional notion of the passive viewer. When you walked by the mirrors, objects—and people—took on the aura of the unknown. u

© Ar t Basel

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This page: Sarah Braman, who lives and works in Amherst, Massachusetts, showcased “Another Time Machine” (2014), in welded steel, color gels, and glass outside the Bass Museum of Art for Art Basel Miami Beach’s Art Public (above); also presenting at 2014’s Art Public was Georg Baselitz, whose “Louise Fuller” (2013) sculpture was on view from December 3–8 (below). > Opposite page: Art Public opened on December 3, with a special evening program of live performances by Ryan Gander, Christian Falsnaes, Liz Glynn, Dawn Kasper, and Alix Pearlstein;

© Ar t B as el

guests take in the art at the booths at the Miami Beach Convention Center. Art Basel’s 13th go-round in Miami Beach closed on December 7, among strong praise from gallerists, private collectors, museum groups, and the media. Over 73,000 people visited Miami for Art Basel Miami Beach and various satellite fairs, such as SCOPE, NADA, and PULSE.


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Pre-Collections In Review by

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Alex R. TRAveRs


This page: Three looks from Dennis Basso’s Pre-Fall 2015 collection. The designer showed the pieces at his Madison Avenue showroom (pictured here). Basso used rich colors like cranberry for his evening gowns, and the daywear sported an athletic grace. > Opposite page: The finale of Christian Dior’s first catwalk show, which took place in Japan in early December.

Co u r te sy o f D e n n i s B a sso ; B FANYC .c o m

Sometime very soon, I imagine, most of these PreFall and Resort collections that designers present are going to walk out of the showrooms and make their way to onto the catwalks. In fact, it’s already starting to happen. Here, a look at Dior’s and Chanel’s runway extravaganzas, as well as Dennis Basso’s intimate showroom appointment for Pre-Fall 2015. > Dennis Basso There was no runway show for Dennis Basso’s Pre-Fall 2015 collection. Instead, the designer hosted showroom appointments, which allowed you to get up close and personal with each piece. Of the five senses, touch figured best. It was exciting to feel the sables, chinchillas, minks, and alligators. But this collection was also a pleasure to see. One vest—made of chinchilla, sable, and alpaca—had a patchwork-like quality. Its deconstructive look gave it a rare subtlety. The color palette was an exercise in delicacy, too: olives, grays, caramels, taupes. All of Basso’s daywear—knit tops and dresses, tweed skirts, suede and broadtail shifts—sported an athletic grace. Elegant tweed tops had the look and feel of raw silk. A gray mink coat was reversible, the inside providing an entirely new piece of outerwear that was fresh for the designer. On one look, the lightest of organza at the hem of a dress became enveloped by embroidered tweed, all of which rested under a fluffy alpaca coat. The sum of all parts was quite beautiful. And the gowns—one, a draped taffeta number in light cranberry; the other, hand-embroidered lamé—were simple delights.


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> Chanel Chanel’s most recent Métiers d’Art show fused the Mitteleuropean Alpine style with the hot immediacy of fashion’s love for the unexpected. And yet, it was a struggle. There was no doubting the near flawless craftsmanship of the clothes or the allure of the accessories—pretzel earrings, sparkling brooches, drop-front fly zippered pouches inspired by breeches and lederhosen. Military coats with ornamental braids figured strongly on the catwalk. It was lovely stuff. But the past was with Karl Lagerfeld and his models at every turn. What happens when these clothes leave their fairy-tale environment? “I don’t want to do anything folkloric,” he explained. “This is more of a fantasy. It has to be modern.” This proved to be a hard period to adapt, but even when his women donned dirndls, you still felt that you were in the hands of a master. > Dior It was Dior’s first Pre-Fall runway show and the brand’s Belgian designer, Raf Simons, wanted to present the collection in an urban landscape in Japan. The street would have worked, but, according to the designer, it wasn’t practical. So instead he chose Tokyo’s Ryogoku sumo stadium, a venue where many buy tickets to watch sporting events and music concerts. Ryogoku Kokugikan was a space large enough to realize Simons’ abstraction, his aesthetic of Dior today, which is like

an elegant artifice that uses his obsession with the past to mold the future of fashion (and femininity). For this collection, he was most interested in outerwear. Like jackets and three-quarterlength coats. Except life glittered underneath their surfaces. The outfits had a pliant quality that rattled the perceptions and collapsed boundaries between the past and present. For example, Dior’s traditional bar coat looked perfectly in place over a scaly sequined turtleneck. “I think it’s a bit more edgy,” he offered. But for all the collection’s edginess, it was, ultimately, an exercise in beauty. The wintery snow falling from above seemed to evoke the kind of magnetism found in films like Keisuke Kinoshita’s Ballad of Narayama. And the shapes of the clothes did suggest the “Esprit Dior,” the title of this PreFall 2015 show. Tradition has never looked so attractively nontraditional. u


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This page: Looks and outtakes from Christian Dior’s first Pre-Fall runway show. The large outing took place at the Ryogoku Kokugikan, Tokyo’s famous indoor sporting arena located in the Yokoami neighborhood of Sumida. Christian Dior designer, Raf Simons, wanted to present the collection in an urban landscape, but showing in the street, he said, was not possible. > Opposite page: Chanel’s Metiers d’Art show brought the brand to Salzburg, Austria, where Karl Lagerfeld fused the Mitteleuropean style with the hot immediacy of fashion’s love for the unexpected. Accessories included pretzel earrings, sparkling brooches, and drop-front fly zippered pouches inspired by breeches and lederhosen.

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S T Y L E Le sle y Frow ick C o lle ctio n

Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L

The Legacy Of Halston

by

ElizabEth MEighEr


This page: Halston and Liza Minnelli in 1978; illustration of Liza Minnelli by Joe Eula in an outfit that Halston envisioned for her (inset). > Opposite page: Marisa Berenson in a Halston black sequin dress, taking a break backstage at Le Grand Divertissement, photographed by Charles Tracy.

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This spread, clockwise from left: Halston and Rupert Smith, one of Warhol’s silk-screeners, selecting serigraphs to be sold for the Martha Graham School of Contemporary Dance fund-raising auction, 1987; Halston and D. D. Ryan at the Electric Circus, New York, 1969; contact sheet by Christopher Makos showing Halston with his models, sisterin-law Ann Frowick, and party guests at Regine’s Club 7, 1980; a Halston design for a pillbox hat appointed with burnt peacock feathers, 1960; author, curator, and photographer Lesley Frowick and her uncle Halston celebrating their shared birthday, April 23, in 1988; Halston and his entourage photographed by Jean Paul Goude for Esquire, 1975; a Halston hat doodle, 1967; two models on the beach in Acapulco wearing dresses by Gayle Kirkpatrick for Atelier and wraparound sunshields by Halston, photographed by George Barkentin, 1966; Loulou de la Falaise and Halston photographed by Charles Tracy.

Halston “Fashion starts with fashionable people,” stated designer Roy Halston Frowick (1932–1990), known simply as “Halston.” Born in Des Moines, Iowa, on April 23, 1932, to a Norwegian-American accountant and his wife, Halston later dropped his first and last names, preferring the moniker. As a boy, Halston loved to alter and make clothes for his mother and sister. In 1952, Halston moved to Chicago, where he enrolled in night courses at the School of the Art Institute and worked as a window dresser. In 1953, he opened his own hat business. For his wondrous and whimsical hat designs, Halston used all manner of jewels, flowers, and fringe to decorate hoods, bonnets and coifs. Patrons included Kim Novak, Gloria Swanson, Deborah Kerr, and Hedda Hopper. Halston moved to New York City in late 1957, first working for respected milliner Lilly Daché. Within a year, he was hired to serve as chief milliner for luxury retailer Bergdorf Goodman. Halston created the signature pillbox hat that Jackie Kennedy wore to her husband’s presidential inauguration ceremony in 1961, winning his first (of four) Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award for innovation in millinery. In 1968 he left Bergdorf’s to launch his own label, offering a perfect look for the internation-

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Co r bi s ; Le sl ey Frowick/Rober t Kevin Morris

Co ll ec ti o n s an d FIT Archives; Lesley Frowick Collection; © Cond é Nast Archive/

Fas h i on i ns ti tu te of Technolog y /SUNY, Gld y sMarcus Librar y Dep t of Sp ecial


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This page: Model Barbara Bach straddles tile steps of the Castello San’Nicola in Sicily, wearing a dress by Teal Traina and a hat by Halston, photographed by Henry Clarke, 1967. > Opposite page: Sketch of Halston’s floppy organza hat; Halston and Bianca Jagger attend the Costume Institute Gala at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1977 (inset).

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© Cond é Nast Archive/Corbis; Fashion institute of Technolog y /SUNY, Gld y sMarcus Librar y Dep t. of Specia l C o lle ctio n s a n d FI T Arch ive s

“Halston was my best friend,” writes Liza Minnelli. “I called him every day, even when I was on tour... He was unbelievably generous with his time and his talent.”


v ia Ge tty I m a ge s

Fra n k J o h n sto n / Th e Wa sh in gto n Po st


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al glitterati of his era. Halston’s line was renowned for sexy yet elegant pieces (perfect for high-strung nights on a disco floor), and included the iconic “ultra suede” shirtdress and the original halter dress—gushed Women’s Wear Daily: “The 1970s belong to Halston.” After two decades of dressing the jet-set, to the chagrin of his adoring family, friends, and fans, Halston was diagnosed with AIDS and passed away at the age of 57 in 1990. Lesley Frowick, one of Halston’s six nieces and a personal confidante, recently released HALSTON: Inventing American Fashion (Rizzoli), with a foreward by Liza Minnelli (for whom Halston was a personal fashion guru throughout the 1970s and ’80s). The book, the first definitive monograph on the late fashion designer and his legacy, traces Halston’s journey from homespun roots to the pinnacle of urban fame as illustrated through the lens of his early sketches and personal archives, as well as previously concealed Joe Eula and Stephen Sprouse drawings. Halston’s story unfolds through the author’s interviews with Jane Holzer, Marisa Berenson, Joel Schumacher, Hamish Bowles, Harold Koda, and Ralph Pucci, among others, all of whose personal experiences are essential to Halston’s enduring legacy. Highlighting his most important design achievements and his collaborations with luminaries such as Martha Graham, Elsa Peretti, and Hiro, the book presents the untold story of Halston and solidifies his place as a key designer in American fashion. u

This page: Liza Minnelli, Roy Halston, and Elizabeth Taylor are escorted by U.S. Park Police in Washington, D.C., photographed by Frank Johnston. > Opposite page: Halston with models wearing beaded creations from his last collection, design-room assistant Anthony Falwell, and right-hand-man Bill Dugan at Olympic Tower, 1985, photographed by Dustin Pittman.

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COAST TO COAST FLORIDA

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COAST TO COAST FLORIDA

LI L A P HOTO

Palm Beach

On December 26, the festivities continued with the Red Cross Beach Bash, which was sponsored by Lilly Pulitzer to benefit the American Red Cross. The theme—“What Happens in the Jungle, Stays in the Jungle”—proved to be the perfect hashtag for Instagram, which was bursting with pictures of partygoers in colorful prints. The event was hosted by Bobby Leidy, grandson of Lilly Pulitzer, and featured a variety of entertainment: aerialists, hula dancers, and seminude models whose bodies were painted in bold patterns. That evening, the stars were bright, but the Red Cross Beach Bash was brighter.

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1. Chris Leidy and Bobby Leidy 2. Stacey Leuliette, Larissa Lester, Stephie Rockwell, and Mary Victoria Falzarano 3. Elizabeth Brown, Taylor Roach, and Lauriston Roach 4. Atmosphere 5. Rory Mackay 6. Micaela English and Laura Poatsy 7. Joanna Scholtz and Caroline Wright

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COAST TO COAST CALIFORNIA

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© I m e h Ak p a n u do se n / Ge tty I m a ge s

Los Angeles

Graced by Jacqueline Kennedy and crafted in a sumptuous salmon silk-cloth with gold-stamped foiling, it’s hard not to judge this book by its cover. Dinner Diaries: Reviving the Art of the Hostess Book (Assouline), an entertaining how-to by Quest and Q’s very own Daniel Cappello, was the toast of Los Angeles during a champagne reception hosted in the Melrose Place atelier of the luxury French silver company Christofle by some of California’s most celebrated hosts and hostesses themselves: Alex Hitz, Beth DeWoody, Cameron Silver, Christian Leone, Jane Ross, Sandy Hill, Sarah Gavlak, and Shiva Rose.

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1. Daniel Cappello and Beth DeWoody 2. Sandy Hill 3. Brooke Davenport and Christian Leone 4. Sam Edge and Shiva Rose 5. Michael Landes and Wendy Benson-Landes 6. Champagne served up on Christofle silver platters 7. Ty Severe 8. Flint Beamon and Eddie Roche 9. Cameron Silver and Jane Ross

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Miami

Bombay Sapphire fêted the scene that is Art Basel Miami Beach with its artisan series at the Soho Beach House. This year, the event was hosted by Russell Simmons and Danny Simmons, whose organization—Rush Philanthropic Arts Foundation—helped with the competition for the best of the best in the world of visual arts. (Kristine Mays of San Fransisco was awarded the honor.) Guests sipped on cocktails with Bombay Sapphire in a crowd that included Rosario Dawson, Chanel Iman, Garrett Neff, and Emily Ratajkowski. There was a performance by Miguel, followed by a set by DJ M.O.S.

1. Chanel Iman 2. The Bombay Sapphire girls 3. DJ M.O.S. provided the music at the Soho Beach House 4. Emily Ratajkowski 5. Miguel’s performance 6. Guests smile for the camera 7. Rosario Dawson and Ross Matsubara

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C O A S T T O C O A S T N E W YO R K

Pa trick M cM u lla n

New York On January 7, HBO hosted the premiere of the

fouth season of Girls at the American Museum of Natural History. Guests were treated to two episodes of the show followed by an after-party beneath the whale in the Milstein Hall of Ocean Life. The event felt very New York—like Girls itself—and secured a crowd of bold-faced names, despite being on a Monday. In addition to Lena Dunham, Jimima Kirke, Zosia Mamet, and Allison Williams, attendees included Sophia Bush, Kathy Griffin, John Hamm, Jenna Lyons, and Cecily Strong. You go, girls!

1. Zosia Mamet, Lena Dunham, Allison Williams, and Jemima Kirke 2. Leandra Medine and Audrey Gelman 3. Karlie Kloss 4. Jenna Lyons and Natasha Lyonne 5. Sophie Sumner and RJ King 6. Gillian Jacobs

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This pages: At Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo, the heated seawater pool features views of the Mediterranean Sea; the treatments blend state-of-the-art technologies and the tradition of the French Riviera (inset). > Opposite page: L’Hirondelle, the restaurant at Thermes Marins, offers nutritious cuisine with a menu punctuated by seafood (left); facials use products from Clínica Ivo Pitanguy, Reneve Monaco, and La Prairie (right).

Putting The Ahh (And The “Brrr”) In Spa by

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Co u r te sy o f T h e r m e s M ar i n s M o n te - Ca r lo

BEAUTY

Monte-Carlo is so much of a dream that you can jet to the destination without the experience of jet lag. Cryotherapy, a treatment at Thermes Marins at Hôtel Hermitage, is designed to provide a boost for travelers—because what’s an evening in Monaco without the energy to visit the Casino de Monte-Carlo or a couple of clubs? Thermes Marins is perched above the yachts of Port Hercule, boasting spectacular views of the Mediterranean Sea. The menu of world-class treatments is extensive, designed to inspire the jeunesse and the joie de vivre of the French Riviera through state-of-the art technologies. But back to my experience with cryotherapy: Wearing a towel, I was armed with a series of accessories to protect my extremities from frostbite, including a face mask and headband as well as gloves and socks. I entered the first 5-by-5 chamber, which was set to -60°C, dancing to the sounds of “Blurred Lines” by Robin Thicke. In 30 seconds, I was instructed to enter the second 5-by-5 chamber, which was set to -110°C. The name of the game? Grin and bear it, for three minutes. (A friend departed the session with icicles on the hairs of her arms.) The treatment is designed to encourage healing: In the cold, blood (and oxygen) are rerouted as the capillaries on the surface of the skin are constricted. Afterward, the vessels expand, flushing the body with fresh blood (and fresh oxygen). It shocks your system into renewal. Cryotherapy is meant to aid in recovery, so it’s popular for athletes who deal with problems like inflammation and pains in their joints and muscles. For me, it helped with jet lag and (fingers crossed) with anti-aging. That said, I have yet to resemble a Nordic princess, but maybe that’s because I had the energy to be dancing at Jimmy’z ’til 5 a.m. u For more information about Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo (at 2 Avenue de Monte-Carlo in Monaco), call (377) 98 06 69 00 or visit thermesmarinsmontecarlo.com. WINTER 2015/

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Q U I N T E S S E N T I A L BEAUTY BODY

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1. BRIGITTE BARDOT was fetching, embodying the feel of the French Riviera. 2. DAVINES The name says everything: This Is A Texturizing Dust. Sprinkle volume into your day-to-day or style an updo. $28. 3. FEKKAI A fragrance for your mane with notes of citrus and sugar, as inspired by the chic of St. Barths (and the go-to cocktail of Frédéric Fekkai). $19.99. 4. PETER THOMAS ROTH Freeze the Cucumber De-Tox De-Puffing Eye-Cubes to look as fresh as a daisy in the morning. $58. 5. ALTERNA From the Caviar Repair Rx, an elixir for treating your locks—from root to tip. Breakage, be gone. $38. 6. CROWNS BY CHRISTY A wreath of flowers to enhance your look in seconds. (As seen on Amanda Seyfried.) $25 and up, at crownsbychristy.com. 7. YVES SAINT LAURENT Because when it comes to your appearance, a manicure is like night and day: La Laque Couture in Nuit Blanche and Nuit Noire. $27 each. 8. DOLCE & GABBANA “Dolce Floral Drops is fresh and light, yet precious as a morning carress,” say Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. $67 for 30 ml.


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1. MARILYN MONROE wore Chanel No. 5—a scent as classic and sensuous as she. 2. CLARINS An oil that absorbs to enhance and nourish your lips, available in Honey and Raspberry. $23 each. 3. BLISS A gel-to-oil cleanser that conditions and nourishes your skin while washing. $28. 4. TOM FORD The Extreme Mascara in a color that packs a punch: Black Plum for Spring 2015. $44. 5. SK-II Addressing signs of aging is as easy as 1, 2, 3 with the Essential Power Eye Cream, which offers the trio of artichoke extract, concentrated Pitera (the foundation of the SK-II brand), and Stem-Acanax. $120. 6. CLINIQUE The Hello Cheekbones collection features two Chubby Sticks for sculpting contour ($21) and sculpting highlight ($21) as well as a Scupltionary Cheek Countouring Palette ($32). Your face—and its definition—will thank you. 5. CLÉ DE PEAU BEAUTÉ Drop a “pretty” penny on this cream and receive a complimentary Synactif facial. $1,000 at Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, and Saks Fifth Avenue.

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EVENING LOOKS

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Some of the looks here are allusions to our favorite icons. Others unhinge the orthodox. Mix, match, and have fun. When it comes to evening wear, there’s something here for everyone. 1. NANCY JAMES was a woman of prominence whom Cecil Beaton often captured with his lens. Pictured here in Charles James’ salient “Swan” gown, it’s hard not to marvel at Nancy James’ elegance. 2. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN The Fiocco Box by Christian Louboutin adds a little sparkle to any look. Price upon request. 3. PAUL ANDREW Shoe designer Paul Andrew takes a particular pleasure in making sure his high heels are both sexy and comfortable, like this MATRIX sandal in matte python. $1,195 at editorialist.com. 4. REBECCA TAYLOR This Rebecca Taylor silk evening gown is sure to make you the belle of any ball. $1,795 at Rebecca Taylor stores and online at rebeccataylor.com. 5. DAVID YURMAN Wear it from here to infinity: David Yurman’s Infinity medium pendant necklace with amethyst center set in sterling silver. $875 at David Yurman’s 114 Prince St. location in New York City or at davidyurman.com.

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had no formal training in photography. He did, however, start to use his father’s box camera around the age of 10, catching the bug very quickly. Years later, after working with the famous photographer Edgar de Evia, Sokolsky produced his “Bubble” series, depicting fashion models floating in giant clear plastic bubbles suspended in midair above the River Seine in Paris. Pictured here is “After Delvaux, Paris” (1963), one of his most definitive works. 2. TIFFANY & CO. Tiffany’s Soleste ring, with white diamonds and an oval green tourmaline in platinum, is the epitome of a cocktail ring. $17,000. 3. ALTUZARRA Embody love, beauty, enticement, and seduction in this “Venus” dress by New York–based designer Joseph Altuzarra. $2,490. 4. GUCCI Simply a delight: Gucci’s white silk cady gown with crystal tube embroidery. $8,800 at select Gucci store or gucci.com. 5. RAUWOLF Ever since we discovered Rauwolf’s selection of clutches and handbags, we can’t stop admiring their uniquely crafted styles, like this minaudière. $2,140 at Susan of Burlingame 1. MELVIN SOKOLSKY

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1. KIM NOVAK starred in many great films throughout her career, but none quite as iconic as Vertigo, Alfred Hitchcock’s brilliant thriller about falling in love with the idea of someone—which is what the movie industry is ultimately about. In the film, Novak’s cool blonde beauty was breathtaking. And it never hurts to emulate her clever style. 2. CARTIER You’ll want to pounce on the opportunity to slip on the Panthère de Cartier ring in 18-kt. yellow gold, tsavorite garnets, and onyx. $21,000 at Cartier boutiques, 800.CARTIER, or at cartier.us. 3. REISS Decorated with intricate black beads and finished with a gilded frame, Reiss’s compact Maxie clutch is the ultimate afterdark accessory. $265. 4. RALPH LAUREN With its sleek, streamlined silhouette, the dark navy jersey evening dress by Ralph Lauren Collection is fit for a star. $2,995 at select Ralph Lauren stores.

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1 came to prominence as an actress and model in the early 1960s: “I once was one of the highest paid models in the world,” she told the New York Times. Berenson appeared in numerous fashion layouts in Vogue in the early 1970s. (Her sister Berry was a photographer for the magazine.) Fashion was in Berenson’s blood: her maternal grandmother was the designer Elsa Schiaparelli. 2. MARK DAVIS Give yourself the rub of the green with the diamond and bakelite Cassandra bangle. $2,990. 3. JIMMY CHOO Constructed on the base of one of the brand’s best-selling pumps, the Abel emerald suede pump with semi-precious stone detail offers a beautiful, bold statement. $1,250. 4. CAROLINA HERRERA Sport some color this season with Carolina Herrera’s silk embroidered gown, a true gem. $4,999. 5. YLIANA YEPEZ Finished in a metallic python with a frame of “Black Diamond” Swarovski crystals, the Grace minaudière from Yliana Yepez adds an extra sense of sparkle to any evening out. $1,850 at ylianayepez.com. 1. MARISA BERENSON

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SHOPPING INDEX

> Bottega Veneta: 212.371.5511 or bottegaveneta.com. > Boyy: boyybag.com. > Bulgari: bulgari.com. > Burberry Prorsum: 877.217.4085 or burberry.com.

C > Calvin Klein: 866.513.0513 or calvinklein.com. > Carlo Pazolini: carlopazolini.com. > Carolina Herrera: 212.249.6552 or carolinaherrera.com. > Cartier: 212.446.3400 or cartier.us. > Chanel: 800.550.0005 or chanel.com. > Christian Dior: 212.249.5822 or dior.com. > Christofle: christofle.com. > Coach: 800.444.3611 or coach.com. > Criquet Shirts: criquetshirts.com.

D > David Webb: 942 Madison Ave., 212.421.3030. > David Yurman: 877.908.1177 or davidyurman.com. > de Grisogono: 212.439.4220 or degrisogono.com. > Devi Kroell: devikroell.com. > Diane von Furstenberg: dvf.com.

The Stepford Wives were humanoids who fashioned a utopia out of antiquated values. But, hey, there’s nothing wrong with looking your best while you shop, right? To help you on the journey toward a fashion sense of your own, we’ve compiled a listing of all the vendors featured in this issue, along with some of our go-to favorites. In between shopping, be sure to keep up with Quest and Q online for the latest fashion news: visit questmag.com and follow us on Twitter and Instagram at @questmag.

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SHOP ’TIL YOU DROP! A > Alexandra Ferguson: At Venture, 1156 Madison Ave. > Arrowhead Farms: arrowheadfarms.com. > Asprey: 212.688.1811 or asprey.com.

B

> Diesel Black Gold: dieselblackgold.com. > diptyque: 971 Madison Ave., 212.879.3330. > Dolce & Gabbana: 212.249.4100 or dolceandgabbana.com. > Dsquared2: dsquared2.com.

E > Edie Parker: edie-parker.com. > Elie Saab: eliesaab.com.

> BALLY: 628 Madison Ave. or 844.44.BALLY.

> Elie Tahari: elietahari.com.

> Barneys New York: 888.222.7639 or barneys.com.

> Emilio Pucci: emiliopucci.com.

> Bergdorf Goodman: bergdorfgoodman.com.

> Erdem: erdem.com.

> Bloomingdale’s: 800.777.0000 or bloomingdales.com.

> Esquivel: info@esquivelshoes.com.


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SHOPPING INDEX

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> Lela Rose: 212.947.9204 or lelarose.com.

> Roger Vivier: 212.861.5371 or rogervivier.com.

> Fabergé: 694 Madison Ave., 646.559.8848.

> Louis Vuitton: 866.VUITTON or vuitton.com.

> Rolex: 800.36.ROLEX or rolex.com. > Roni Blanshay: At Bloomingdale’s, 212.705.2000.

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> GANT: 646.367.5416 or us.gant.com.

> Manolo Blahnik: 212.582.3007 or

> Ghurka: ghurka.com.

manoloblahnik.com.

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> Gieves & Hawkes: At Bergdorf Goodman.

> Marchesa: At Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue,

> Saint Laurent Paris: 212.832.7100 or ysl.com.

> Giorgio Armani: 877.361.1176 or armani.com.

and marchesa.com.

> Saks Fifth Avenue: 877.551.SAKS or

> Gucci: 877.482.2430 or gucci.com.

> Marco Bicego: marcobicego.com.

saksfifthavenue.com.

> Marina B: marinab.com.

> Salvatore Ferragamo: ferragamo.com.

> McIntosh: mcintoshlabs.com.

> Seaman Schepps: seamanschepps.com.

> H. Stern: hstern.net.

> Michael Bastian: At Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys New

> Sebago: sebago.com.

> Harry Winston: harrywinston.com.

York, 212.228.3400, or michaelbastiannyc.com.

> Scalise: scalise.fr.

> Hermès: 800.441.4488 or hermes.com.

> Michael Kors: 800.908.1157 or michaelkors.com.

> Sheriff & Cherry: sheriffandcherry.com.

> Hirotaka: At otteny.com.

> MILLY: millyny.com.

> Shinola: shinola.com.

> Hueb: 717 Madison Ave. or hueb.com.

> Mikimoto: 800.223.4008 or mikimotoamerica.com.

> Shoshanna: At Saks Fifth Avenue, saks.com.

> Hunter Boot: usa.hunter-boot.com.

> Misha Nonoo: mishanonoo.com.

> Smythson: 212.265.4573 or

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> Rupert Sanderson: rupertsanderson.com.

smythson.com.

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> Innamorato: innamorato.com.

> Nancy Gonzalez: At Neiman Marcus or

> Stuart Weitzman: 212.823.9560 or

> Ippolita: ippolita.com.

nancygonzalez.com.

www.stuartweitzman.com.

> Irene Neuwirth: At Jeffrey New York, 212.206.1272.

> Neiman Marcus: 800.533.1312 or

> Isoude: isoude.com.

neimanmarcus.com.

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> J.Crew: 800.562.0258 or jcrew.com.

> Oscar de la Renta: 888.782.6357 or

> Tommy Hilfiger: usa.tommy.com.

> Jack Spade: jackspade.com.

oscardelarenta.com.

> Tory Burch: toryburch.com.

> Jimmy Choo: 877.955.2466 or jimmychoo.com.

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> Judith Ripka: judithripka.com.

> Paul Andrew: paulandrew.com.

> Valentino: 212.772.6969 or

> Peggy Stephaich Guinness: At Betteridge, 236 Worth

valentino.com.

Ave., Palm Beach, 561.655.5850.

> Van Cleef & Arpels: vancleefarpels.com.

> Prada: 724 Fifth Ave., 212.664.0010, or prada.com.

> Verdura: 745 Fifth Ave. or verdura.com.

> James Perse: jamesperse.com.

K > Kara Ross: kararossny.com. > Kate Spade: katespade.com. > Kendra Scott: kendrascott.com.

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> Stella McCartney: stellamccartney.com.

T > Tiffany & Co.: 561.659.6090 or tiffany.com. > Tom Ford: 212.359.0300 or tomford.com.

> Versace: 888.721.7219 or versace.com.

> Ralph Lauren: 888.475.7674 or ralphlauren.com.

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> Red Carter: redcartercollection.com.

> Wempe: 212.397.9000 or wempe.com.

> Lalique: 888.488.2580 or lalique.com.

> Reem Acra: 730 Fifth Ave., Suite 205, 212.319.1800.

> La Perla: laperla.com.

> Roberto Coin: At Neiman Marcus or Roberto Coin,

Y

> Lanvin: 646.439.0380 or lanvin.com.

800.853.5958 and us.robertocoin.com.

> Yliana Yepez: ylianayepez.com.

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WINTER HOROSCOPES

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Capricorn Dec. 22 to Jan. 19 You’re experiencing a burst of energy. And what an opportunity! Maybe you commit to 5 a.m. classes at Barry’s Bootcamp, or maybe you decide on a string of all-nighters to write your novel. Whatever your mission, you’ve chosen to accept it. > Garnet earrings by David Yurman.

Cancer June 21 to July 22

Aquarius Jan. 20 to Feb. 18 Revenge is yours, dear Aquarius. But as soon as that dish is served—and, man, is it going to be cold—wash your hands. Reveling in the situation isn’t classy. It’s onward and upward, so put some pep in your step as you walk away from the person who stomped on your heart. > Amethyst brooch by Tiffany & Co.

Leo July 23 to Aug. 23 You aren’t one to settle, dear Leo—and there is no reason to start. You have to make a decision, whether it’s about relocating for a job or committing to a relationship (like, with a ring). Choose to be inspired, always. Things that require work can result in a greater reward. > Peridot earrings by Asprey.

Pisces Feb. 19 to Mar. 20 You’ve been distracted by a romantic relationship, but it’s time to awaken yourself from this spell and refocus on non-romantic relationships. Your friends are missing your company! (And resenting you.) Set a date for coffee or cocktails—your treat. > Aquamarine earrings by Tiffany & Co.

Virgo Aug. 24 to Sept. 22 So, you think everything is “la vie en rose” because, well, it has been. However, what goes up must come down. Your test will be how you navigate the peaks and valleys of time. Remember: When the going gets tough, the tough get going. It may be time to prove yourself. > Sapphire ring by Asprey.

Aries Mar. 21 to Apr. 19 Summer seems like a fairy tale in that it happened once upon a time, in a land far, far away... Don’t succumb to SAD, dear Aries! Pop a Vitamin D and be proactive about your plans for June, July, and August. Maybe get going on organizing your share in Montauk... > Diamond ring by Roberto Coin.

Libra Sept. 23 to Oct. 22 The market—well, the “meet” market—is a go for you, dear Libra. Now is not the time to cozy up in your apartment, whatever the weather. So, march yourself to a bar with a buddy... Say hello to whomever catches your eye, and hello to a year of love! > Tourmaline necklace by Tiffany & Co.

Taurus Apr. 20 to May 20 Something about messing with a bull and getting the horns and that movie from the Eighties. When angered, you respond—but what’s wrong with that? You’re becoming a queen bee and, whether or not that B stands for Biatch, people are going to bow down this winter. > Emerald ring by Fabergé.

Scorpio Oct. 23 to Nov. 21 Albert Camus wrote, “In the midst of winter, I finally learned there was, within me, an invincible summer.” You’re discovering a strength—a perseverence—at the heart of your being. You’re a force, dear Scorpio. Shine from within, whatever your environment. > Topaz earrings by Roberto Coin.

Gemini May 21 to June 20

Sagittarius Nov. 22 to Dec. 21

Second guessing is second nature to you— which is good, considering the decisions you made in 2014. Your New Year’s resolution? Reevaluate. Maybe you should reconsider that relocation to Europe. You’re only young (or young-ish) once! > Pearl pin by Tiffany & Co.

Keep making plans for the weekend that you don’t intend to keep? Thought so. The stars are telling you to replace your flannel PJ wishes with caviar dreams in the hopes that you’ll meet someone while enjoying a night on the town. And if not? Champers, baby. > Turquoise ring by Van Cleef & Arpels.

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Your sign is ruled by the moon, which means there may be howling this season. Don’t stress when late nights become early mornings—the stars made you do it. Maybe you take a shot of tequila, maybe you dance with a stranger. You were born to be wild. > Ruby ring by David Yurman.


“We knew our project wasn’t extremely large; however, you gave us confidence by taking a personal interest every step of the way.” — Philip and Lucie Ross —

DESIGNING FINE HOMES, ESTATES, AND APARTMENTS IN CONNECTICUT, NEW YORK CITY, AND PALM BEACH AN ADDITION AND RENOVATION OF A FAMILY HOME IN WESTPORT, CONNECTICUT. WADIAASSOCIATES.COM



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