The
Donkey Sanctuary THe Complete Book of
The Donkey
Dr Elisabeth D Svendsen MBE
THe Complete Book of
The Donkey Dr Elisabeth Svendsen, MBE
Kenilworth Press
THe Complete Book of
The Donkey Dr Elisabeth Svendsen, MBE
Kenilworth Press
20
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THE COMPLETE BOOK OF THE DONKEY
CHAPTER ONE
origins of the donkey
Dr Svendsen with some of her beloved charges!
Finally, my grateful thanks go to Sue Harland without whose help, time and patience this book could not have been put together. Unfortunately, in 2006 I suffered two minor strokes and decided that, in the interests of The Donkey Sanctuary it would be better to appoint a new Chief Executive. The Trustees selected David Cook, a long-term supporter of the charity, who started work in May 2007. He is proving to be excellent in his new role. As Founder, I continue to work in a less stressful capacity, and will do so for as long as possible in the future. I hope that we have now come to grips with the problems for donkeys in the UK, but there is still much to do, particularly in developing countries. Every day something new can be learned and our work will continue for many years to come.
L
ooking closely at a group of donkeys you will notice how they differ in size, shape, colour, markings and even in the texture of their coats. So it would be surprising if they shared one common ancestor or originated in one region of the world. A short history of the donkey can only be general but, before finding out who these ancestors were, where they lived and what they looked like, you need to know something about the features of the donkey in the United Kingdom today. Grey in various shades is the predominant colour. Brown donkeys are fairly plentiful. Other colours are black, roan (which is a mixture of white hairs and another colour, usually brown) and piebald, skewbald or broken coloured, that is, a combination of brown-and-white or black-and-white markings, which were very popular in the late 1960s but is less so now. Finally there are the rarer colours of pure white and chestnut. The ‘cross’ which is immediately associated with the donkey is most clearly marked on greys and browns, less distinct on lighter colours, invisible on blacks and missing on white and broken coloured donkeys. But, as with most things connected with the donkey, there are always exceptions! Because size is important, it will be useful to have some idea of the height of the donkey. This is measured in ‘hands’, each hand being the average breadth of a person’s hand, i.e. four inches. The measurement is taken at the withers. These are the highest point of the donkey’s shoulder, where the neck joins the back, and most of the donkeys you will see will be between 91/2 and 11 hands (38 and 44 inches or 96.5 and 111.8 centimetres). Now for the donkey’s pedigree. Its ancestors were wild asses from Africa and Asia. In Africa there were two separate species: the Nubian, standing at 12 hands, from the north between the Mediterranean coast and the Sahara Desert, and the
20
•
THE COMPLETE BOOK OF THE DONKEY
CHAPTER ONE
origins of the donkey
Dr Svendsen with some of her beloved charges!
Finally, my grateful thanks go to Sue Harland without whose help, time and patience this book could not have been put together. Unfortunately, in 2006 I suffered two minor strokes and decided that, in the interests of The Donkey Sanctuary it would be better to appoint a new Chief Executive. The Trustees selected David Cook, a long-term supporter of the charity, who started work in May 2007. He is proving to be excellent in his new role. As Founder, I continue to work in a less stressful capacity, and will do so for as long as possible in the future. I hope that we have now come to grips with the problems for donkeys in the UK, but there is still much to do, particularly in developing countries. Every day something new can be learned and our work will continue for many years to come.
L
ooking closely at a group of donkeys you will notice how they differ in size, shape, colour, markings and even in the texture of their coats. So it would be surprising if they shared one common ancestor or originated in one region of the world. A short history of the donkey can only be general but, before finding out who these ancestors were, where they lived and what they looked like, you need to know something about the features of the donkey in the United Kingdom today. Grey in various shades is the predominant colour. Brown donkeys are fairly plentiful. Other colours are black, roan (which is a mixture of white hairs and another colour, usually brown) and piebald, skewbald or broken coloured, that is, a combination of brown-and-white or black-and-white markings, which were very popular in the late 1960s but is less so now. Finally there are the rarer colours of pure white and chestnut. The ‘cross’ which is immediately associated with the donkey is most clearly marked on greys and browns, less distinct on lighter colours, invisible on blacks and missing on white and broken coloured donkeys. But, as with most things connected with the donkey, there are always exceptions! Because size is important, it will be useful to have some idea of the height of the donkey. This is measured in ‘hands’, each hand being the average breadth of a person’s hand, i.e. four inches. The measurement is taken at the withers. These are the highest point of the donkey’s shoulder, where the neck joins the back, and most of the donkeys you will see will be between 91/2 and 11 hands (38 and 44 inches or 96.5 and 111.8 centimetres). Now for the donkey’s pedigree. Its ancestors were wild asses from Africa and Asia. In Africa there were two separate species: the Nubian, standing at 12 hands, from the north between the Mediterranean coast and the Sahara Desert, and the
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THE COMPLETE BOOK OF THE DONKEY
SO YOU WOULD LIKE A DONKEY?
always have access to a shelter or stable. The shelter should also provide protection from the wind and shade from the sun.
• Do you have a vet and farrier who are prepared to undertake their routine treatments?
• Do you have a supplier of hay and straw? • Do you have storage space for hay and straw over the winter months? • Can you remove your muck heap regularly? • Can you afford a donkey? The cost of owning and keeping a donkey (based on costs in January 2009) Donkeys are affectionate animals
donkey so wherever possible they should not be separated. A pair of donkeys will live quite happily together, or in a group with other equines. They prefer to be with their own kind, but will bond with whatever animal is available. It should be borne in mind, though, that bonding with an animal with a shorter lifespan is likely to cause distress to the donkey when the animal dies.
• Do you have the time and commitment needed to look after them?
Donkeys need regular care and attention and, although their average lifespan in the UK is twenty-seven, they can live for as long as fifty years. You should consider whether, if the donkey is bought as a pet for a child, you will want, or in fact be able to look after him when the children have grown up and left home. Time-consuming activities such as mucking out, ‘poo-picking’ fields, grooming and general health checks can take up to an hour a day.
• Do you have an acre of well fenced grazing with a shelter, fresh water supply and electricity?
Donkey friends
A minimum of one acre is needed for two donkeys and they should always share a stable with their companion. You should allow approximately nine square metres (a hundred square feet) of covered area for a pair of donkeys. Unlike a horse, donkeys do not have a natural build-up of grease to make their coats waterproof, so they should
The annual cost of keeping a donkey ranges between £500 and £900. You should also be aware of the need to maintain adequate contingency funds to meet unexpected veterinary bills. Third party insurance is also recommended.
Essential equipment Electric fencer £100 Plastic 3ft fencing stakes (based on 1 square acre that has solid fencing around the perimeter) – 15 posts if field is square £20 Electric fencing tape – 200m roll £20 Internal batteries £12 each Stable wheelbarrow £60 Fork £20 Shovel £15 Yard broom £10 Poop scoop and rake £15 Head collar and rope £8 Grooming kit (dandy brush, body brush, plastic curry comb, hoof pick, tray/basket, cotton wool/sponges, scissors) £15 Buckets (minimum of two) £5
Approximate initial outlay £300.00 to £350.00 NB. Costs are approximate and may vary from supplier to supplier and region to region. Other initial expense will depend on facilities already available such as shelter, fencing, hard standing area, electricity supply etc.
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31
30
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THE COMPLETE BOOK OF THE DONKEY
SO YOU WOULD LIKE A DONKEY?
always have access to a shelter or stable. The shelter should also provide protection from the wind and shade from the sun.
• Do you have a vet and farrier who are prepared to undertake their routine treatments?
• Do you have a supplier of hay and straw? • Do you have storage space for hay and straw over the winter months? • Can you remove your muck heap regularly? • Can you afford a donkey? The cost of owning and keeping a donkey (based on costs in January 2009) Donkeys are affectionate animals
donkey so wherever possible they should not be separated. A pair of donkeys will live quite happily together, or in a group with other equines. They prefer to be with their own kind, but will bond with whatever animal is available. It should be borne in mind, though, that bonding with an animal with a shorter lifespan is likely to cause distress to the donkey when the animal dies.
• Do you have the time and commitment needed to look after them?
Donkeys need regular care and attention and, although their average lifespan in the UK is twenty-seven, they can live for as long as fifty years. You should consider whether, if the donkey is bought as a pet for a child, you will want, or in fact be able to look after him when the children have grown up and left home. Time-consuming activities such as mucking out, ‘poo-picking’ fields, grooming and general health checks can take up to an hour a day.
• Do you have an acre of well fenced grazing with a shelter, fresh water supply and electricity?
Donkey friends
A minimum of one acre is needed for two donkeys and they should always share a stable with their companion. You should allow approximately nine square metres (a hundred square feet) of covered area for a pair of donkeys. Unlike a horse, donkeys do not have a natural build-up of grease to make their coats waterproof, so they should
The annual cost of keeping a donkey ranges between £500 and £900. You should also be aware of the need to maintain adequate contingency funds to meet unexpected veterinary bills. Third party insurance is also recommended.
Essential equipment Electric fencer £100 Plastic 3ft fencing stakes (based on 1 square acre that has solid fencing around the perimeter) – 15 posts if field is square £20 Electric fencing tape – 200m roll £20 Internal batteries £12 each Stable wheelbarrow £60 Fork £20 Shovel £15 Yard broom £10 Poop scoop and rake £15 Head collar and rope £8 Grooming kit (dandy brush, body brush, plastic curry comb, hoof pick, tray/basket, cotton wool/sponges, scissors) £15 Buckets (minimum of two) £5
Approximate initial outlay £300.00 to £350.00 NB. Costs are approximate and may vary from supplier to supplier and region to region. Other initial expense will depend on facilities already available such as shelter, fencing, hard standing area, electricity supply etc.
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CARING FOR YOUR DONKEY
CHAPTER THREE
caring for your donkey
Feeding The basic rules of feeding
• Feed little and often and keep feeding times regular, as donkeys are ‘trickle feeders’.
• Any change in the feeding regime must always be carried out gradually over four to six weeks.
• Always feed according to the donkey's age, weight and temperament. • Avoid dusty or mouldy feeds. • Always have clean, palatable water available. • Access to a salt or mineral lick is advisable. • Regular dental checks are necessary to enable the donkey to make efficient use of his feed.
• Take dung samples and have them tested for worm eggs to ensure a targeted worming programme.
In their natural habitat donkeys will browse, eating highly fibrous plant material in small quantities throughout the day. They require a diet low in protein, low in sugar and low in starch, but their diet should be high in fibre and, for this reason, the basis of their diet should be barley straw all year round with a restricted amount of grass. In winter the grass may need to be supplemented with small
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39
amounts of hay. Overweight donkeys are at risk from laminitis and hyperlipaemia. Old or sick donkeys may require supplements to this diet, such as extra high fibre feeds. Your veterinary surgeon can help with this and The Donkey Sanctuary has advice available on feeding donkeys. During the spring and summer the donkeys at The Sand patch Donkey Sanctuary are out grazing in the fields, with access Your donkey will greatly appreciate a to barley straw to ensure they are getting plenty of fibre. small area spread with sand which he can The amount of grass is controlled, either by strip grazing roll in, but put this in an area you do not using electric fencing or by limiting the amount of time mind seeing bare and ensure it is stone they have access to the grass, to prevent them getting too free. When the donkey stands up after fat. During the winter months they are housed in large, rolling, he will not, like the horse, shake airy barns with concrete run-out yards, without access to his whole body. He will only shake his head and ears to remove excess dust. grass, as our large groups of donkeys would damage the In his desert environment this dust was pasture and end up standing in mud which is not good for needed. It was retained in the coat to their feet or legs and can bring on conditions such as mud protect him from both heat and cold and fever. Instead they have ad lib barley straw and are fed a provided very good insulation. It is this controlled amount of hay or haylage according to body characteristic which makes a donkey condition. If your donkeys have access to grass all year almost always send up a huge cloud of round then very little hay will be required, even during the dust when patted by the human hand. winter months. Control the amount of grass and hay they have each day to maintain good body condition. Donkeys would naturally graze for long periods of time. It is therefore important to control their diet to prevent obesity, but a healthy donkey should be looking to eat throughout the day and have no problems chewing or swallowing. Most donkeys will become obese on unrestricted grazing. The sensible use of electric or moveable fencing will enable you to control the grass intake. Always follow the manufacturer's guidelines. Keep your fence neat and well maintained and check it every morning and evening, moving it as appropriate. The rotation Donkeys grazing at the Sanctuary
CARING FOR YOUR DONKEY
CHAPTER THREE
caring for your donkey
Feeding The basic rules of feeding
• Feed little and often and keep feeding times regular, as donkeys are ‘trickle feeders’.
• Any change in the feeding regime must always be carried out gradually over four to six weeks.
• Always feed according to the donkey's age, weight and temperament. • Avoid dusty or mouldy feeds. • Always have clean, palatable water available. • Access to a salt or mineral lick is advisable. • Regular dental checks are necessary to enable the donkey to make efficient use of his feed.
• Take dung samples and have them tested for worm eggs to ensure a targeted worming programme.
In their natural habitat donkeys will browse, eating highly fibrous plant material in small quantities throughout the day. They require a diet low in protein, low in sugar and low in starch, but their diet should be high in fibre and, for this reason, the basis of their diet should be barley straw all year round with a restricted amount of grass. In winter the grass may need to be supplemented with small
•
39
amounts of hay. Overweight donkeys are at risk from laminitis and hyperlipaemia. Old or sick donkeys may require supplements to this diet, such as extra high fibre feeds. Your veterinary surgeon can help with this and The Donkey Sanctuary has advice available on feeding donkeys. During the spring and summer the donkeys at The Sand patch Donkey Sanctuary are out grazing in the fields, with access Your donkey will greatly appreciate a to barley straw to ensure they are getting plenty of fibre. small area spread with sand which he can The amount of grass is controlled, either by strip grazing roll in, but put this in an area you do not using electric fencing or by limiting the amount of time mind seeing bare and ensure it is stone they have access to the grass, to prevent them getting too free. When the donkey stands up after fat. During the winter months they are housed in large, rolling, he will not, like the horse, shake airy barns with concrete run-out yards, without access to his whole body. He will only shake his head and ears to remove excess dust. grass, as our large groups of donkeys would damage the In his desert environment this dust was pasture and end up standing in mud which is not good for needed. It was retained in the coat to their feet or legs and can bring on conditions such as mud protect him from both heat and cold and fever. Instead they have ad lib barley straw and are fed a provided very good insulation. It is this controlled amount of hay or haylage according to body characteristic which makes a donkey condition. If your donkeys have access to grass all year almost always send up a huge cloud of round then very little hay will be required, even during the dust when patted by the human hand. winter months. Control the amount of grass and hay they have each day to maintain good body condition. Donkeys would naturally graze for long periods of time. It is therefore important to control their diet to prevent obesity, but a healthy donkey should be looking to eat throughout the day and have no problems chewing or swallowing. Most donkeys will become obese on unrestricted grazing. The sensible use of electric or moveable fencing will enable you to control the grass intake. Always follow the manufacturer's guidelines. Keep your fence neat and well maintained and check it every morning and evening, moving it as appropriate. The rotation Donkeys grazing at the Sanctuary
BREEDING AND CARE OF THE YOUNG DONKEY
CHAPTER SIX
BREEDING AND CARE OF THE YOUNG DONKEY
T
he question often asked is, ‘Why breed from any animal?’ Sadly, for the most part, the reason is for financial gain. Given the number of species taken into care by welfare organisations in the United Kingdom, the only viable reason for breeding has to be to improve on what already exists. The donkey is no exception and, with the stark fact that over 13,000 neglected and unwanted donkeys have so far been taken into care by The Donkey Sanctuary. In addition to those whose owners can no longer, for various reasons, look after them, even that can no longer be justification for creating another life. However, for some people the question as to whether or not to breed donkeys has to be ‘yes’, but the responsibility attached must be recognised by the potential breeder, particularly taking into consideration the projected lifespan of the donkey bred. Having considered this and ensured that, as far as possible, the future of any foal is secure, thought then has to be given to breed a foal that is going to have attributes superior to its parents, thus following the theory that we should breed to improve. First and foremost consideration has to be given to the ‘marriage’, who will be the ‘groom’, where will the nuptials take place and the cost involved.
Studs A stud is the name given to a breeding centre for equines. One or more stallions may be kept and any number of mares, often accompanied by young stock of varying ages. Occasionally, stallions (entire males) will be kept only for use by the owner, who may consider that the acceptance of visiting animals creates an
unnecessary inconvenience in an otherwise tranquil life. However these will be few and far between, and for the most part stallion owners are happy to accept visiting mares and will offer advice as to the right sire for your potential foal. A fee will be charged for the stallion’s service. This is called a stud fee and should be agreed prior to making any arrangements for your mare to travel to the stud for covering. Fewer stallions are advertised at stud, and so personal contact needs to be made before the fee will become apparent. This is not because there are necessarily fewer stallions; rather that owners are more reluctant to spend money on advertising. The second consideration is the fact that you will have to pay for your mare to be kept whilst she is visiting the stallion. This is known as ‘livery’, and will include the cost of your mare’s bedding, feed and general supervision. Extras like farriery care and veterinary intervention, should either be necessary, will be an additional cost.
Which stud? Which stallion? From the previous paragraph it can be seen that the choice is not something to be undertaken lightly, and is seldom going to be simple. The donkey stallion down the road may be convenient, but he may not be the best. The one in the next county may be better but the journey to and from the stud may be inconvenient. The best one will invariably be a long distance away, and will take hours
A young foal
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BREEDING AND CARE OF THE YOUNG DONKEY
CHAPTER SIX
BREEDING AND CARE OF THE YOUNG DONKEY
T
he question often asked is, ‘Why breed from any animal?’ Sadly, for the most part, the reason is for financial gain. Given the number of species taken into care by welfare organisations in the United Kingdom, the only viable reason for breeding has to be to improve on what already exists. The donkey is no exception and, with the stark fact that over 13,000 neglected and unwanted donkeys have so far been taken into care by The Donkey Sanctuary. In addition to those whose owners can no longer, for various reasons, look after them, even that can no longer be justification for creating another life. However, for some people the question as to whether or not to breed donkeys has to be ‘yes’, but the responsibility attached must be recognised by the potential breeder, particularly taking into consideration the projected lifespan of the donkey bred. Having considered this and ensured that, as far as possible, the future of any foal is secure, thought then has to be given to breed a foal that is going to have attributes superior to its parents, thus following the theory that we should breed to improve. First and foremost consideration has to be given to the ‘marriage’, who will be the ‘groom’, where will the nuptials take place and the cost involved.
Studs A stud is the name given to a breeding centre for equines. One or more stallions may be kept and any number of mares, often accompanied by young stock of varying ages. Occasionally, stallions (entire males) will be kept only for use by the owner, who may consider that the acceptance of visiting animals creates an
unnecessary inconvenience in an otherwise tranquil life. However these will be few and far between, and for the most part stallion owners are happy to accept visiting mares and will offer advice as to the right sire for your potential foal. A fee will be charged for the stallion’s service. This is called a stud fee and should be agreed prior to making any arrangements for your mare to travel to the stud for covering. Fewer stallions are advertised at stud, and so personal contact needs to be made before the fee will become apparent. This is not because there are necessarily fewer stallions; rather that owners are more reluctant to spend money on advertising. The second consideration is the fact that you will have to pay for your mare to be kept whilst she is visiting the stallion. This is known as ‘livery’, and will include the cost of your mare’s bedding, feed and general supervision. Extras like farriery care and veterinary intervention, should either be necessary, will be an additional cost.
Which stud? Which stallion? From the previous paragraph it can be seen that the choice is not something to be undertaken lightly, and is seldom going to be simple. The donkey stallion down the road may be convenient, but he may not be the best. The one in the next county may be better but the journey to and from the stud may be inconvenient. The best one will invariably be a long distance away, and will take hours
A young foal
•
85