Quintessentially Canadian
QC
Local Gastronomic to the Angels’ Share
and
Relish Whisky
May | 2016
Glendalough Distillery Discover Where the Spirits Taste Heavenly
Onion Soup Guinness and Tarragon
Bourbon
with
Blair Bowman World Whisky Day
The First Brand of Canadian Craft Spirits
proof craft spirits
Davin de Kergommeaux with
Quintessentially Canadian
and
Relish Whisky QC
CONTRIBUTORS
DAVIN DE KERGOMMEAUX is the author of Canadian Whisky: The Portable Expert, the definitive guide to Canadian whisky. An independent whisky expert, de Kergommeaux has been writing about, talking about, and teaching about whisky for more than fifteen years. He is the founder, and head judge for the Canadian Whisky Awards, and publishes comprehensive notes about Canadian whiskies on canadianwhisky.org. His writing and tasting notes appear regularly in Whisky Magazine, Whisky Advocate magazine, and various lifestyle publications. De Kergommeaux has also contributed to or co-authored three other books about whisky, and two about spirits and cocktails. Follow him on twitter and instagram @Davindek.
Johanne McInnis is a freelance whisky
writer from Saint John New Brunswick that started her whisky journey almost 30 years ago and has never looked back. She is a certified chemical engineering technologist, judge for the Canadian Whisky Awards since 2012, panelist on international tastings and presenter at whisky festivals across Canada, as well as the world renowned Spirit of Speyside Festival in Scotland. Her blog can be found at: www.whiskylassie.blogspot.ca.
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World Whisky Day 2016: Event registrations are now open, and a new website has been launched. Event registrations for World Whisky Day 2016 are now open. Registrations across the globe will be published on World Whisky Day’s brand new website as the organisers aim to make this year’s celebration (Saturday 21 May) the biggest yet. Last year, World Whisky Day was toasted on every continent around the world. Even in Antarctica, researchers from the Australian Antarctic Division held celebratory whisky tasting sessions just over 9,500 miles from World Whisky Day’s HQ. Publisher of Hot Rum Cow and organiser of World Whisky Day, Fraser Allen, said: “To see the world raise a dram for World Whisky Day last May was incredible. We want to make this year’s celebration bigger than ever before, and by hosting your own event you’ll be helping to make this a reality.” So why not join the 2016 party? It’s quick, easy and FREE, and it’s what World Whisky Day is all about: getting together and toasting one of life’s great pleasures. Events can range from a quiet backyard dram to a full-blown carnival – anything goes. 10
To register your event, head over to www.worldwhiskyday.com. You can also view current events for some inspiration and to find out who’s toasting the water of life near you. Promotional material will be available for download from 11 April. World Whisky Day has also launched a campaign with charity partner Just a Drop in a bid to raise at least £15,000 for the construction of a sand dam for a community of 4,349 in Kalima South, Kenya – people for whom water really does mean life. If you’d like to donate, text DRAM48 followed by a £ donation to 70070 or visit http://bit.ly/1RklTFO. Everyone is encouraged to join in the social media buzz, too. Get talking on Twitter and Facebook using #WorldWhiskyDay. If you require any more information, don’t hesitate to contact World Whisky Day directly at info@worldwhiskyday.com. Looking forward to raising a dram with you, and the world, this May. Slàinte!
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The whisky aisles at LCBO are changing as Bourbon and rye creep onto shelves that were once the exclusive domain of Scotch whisky. Rising prices may have started the transition, but enjoyability keeps it going. While equally flavourful, premium bourbons often cost less than half what run-of-the-mill single malts do. But where have all these new whiskies come from? Did they suddenly materialize or are we learning of something that always existed? To help the readers of Quintessentially Canadian sort this out, I recently drove the Kentucky Bourbon Trail, visiting the distilleries where several well-loved Bourbons are made. The dormant Stitzel-Weller distillery in Shively has found new life as the home of Bulleit bourbon. Tom Bulleit was a lawyer until he heard the call of whisky. From his comfortable digs at the distillery, he now oversees international sales of his bourbon along with Bulleit rye. Both have found favour with whisky lovers here in Ontario. In Canada, we call our whisky “rye” and it is the best selling whisky style here at home. It sells briskly in the U.S. too, even as American-made rye is becoming the rage south of the border. “In 2005 we made 5,000 cases of rye,” Wild Turkey’s Eddie Russell tells me, “and that was enough to satisfy demand. In 2014 we made 80,000 cases.” One of the reasons Wild Turkey tastes so darn good, Russell claims, smiling at me, is that they use the best rye grain available and much of it comes from Canada. Maker’s Mark does not yet make rye, but sales of their bourbon are booming under the watchful eye of master distiller, Greg Davis. In addition to the soft, gentle Maker’s Mark we are all familiar with, a new spiced-up version called Maker’s Mark 46 was added a few years ago, and now a mouth-searing barrel strength bottling is coming on line. “That’s not mouth feel,” master distiller, Bill Samuels chuckles, “that’s taste buds being destroyed.” It’s macho stuff, for sure. 12 QC Relish and Whisky May 2016
Kentucky Bourbon
Davin de Kergommeaux
Unlike the other distilleries in Kentucky, with their industrial column stills, Woodford distillery, has three copper pot stills, and is a picture straight out of Scotland. “Everything here is done on purpose,” master distiller, Chris Morris tells me. “The copper pots are like the ones used in Scotland, we use triple distillation like in Ireland. We also employ Cognac making techniques, winemaking techniques. We have had a pivotal role in re-shaping Kentucky bourbon.” The big boy on the Kentucky bourbon trail is clearly the Jim Beam distillery in Frankfort. Although it’s a massive industrial plant, many things are done by hand. Frankfort sits in the middle of the Kentucky Ham Belt, master distiller, Fred Noe tells me before we sample eight local hams matched with his bourbon. Born into the seventh generation of the Jim Beam family, as a boy Noe thought he might try his hand at something other than whisky. So, when he finished high school he set off to higher education. “After eight years and a lot of my dad’s money I got out of college,” says Fred. He has been making the world’s best-known bourbon ever since. If bourbon is the first thing we think of when we think of Kentucky, horses have to be second. As luck would have it, one morning the twisting roads of backwoods Kentucky deposited me at Ashford Stud Farms. Until recently, the 2,000-acre Ashford farm in Versailles,
Kentucky was the home of the muchrespected Taylor family. Besides making them wealthy, their Old Taylor bourbon brought them fame in Versailles and around the world. The Taylors long ago left the bourbon business behind and their namesake whisky is now made at Buffalo Trace distillery. I didn’t make it to Buffalo Trace, but from my visits to Stizel-Weller, Wild Turkey, Maker’s Mark, Woodford Reserve and Beam distilleries it’s clear that for every great bourbon we have at LCBO, Kentucky has 25 more on offer. So, next time another single malt tempts you, head to the bourbon shelf instead. There’s a lot there to tickle your whisky fancy.
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When in Kentucky:
A Kentucky Bourbon Trail® Adventure When pickin’ in Kentucky, you can’t help but stop over for Bourbon. Kentucky produces 95% of America’s native spirit in that old-fashioned, time-honored way. There are so many ways to plan your route, but here is what we suggest.
Evan Williams Bourbon Experience Any great Kentucky Bourbon Trail® adventure will begin in Louisville where the official drink is the Old Fashioned. The Evan Williams Bourbon Experience located right downtown is just a stones-throw from the port where Evan himself used to send barrels down the river. Experience this artisan distillery in the heart of Louisville and enjoy your samples in one of two themed tasting rooms…or the basement speakeasy (shhh). Make sure to stop by the newest addition to the KBT Craft Tour family, Kentucky Peerless Distilling Co.
Bulleit Frontier Whiskey Experience Next you will travel west to the Bulleit Frontier Whiskey Experience at the old Stitzel-Weller Distillery. Walk around for a few minutes and you’ll see just how much whiskey history has occurred on these hallowed grounds. If you need a great meal, drinks and a place to rest your head, the Bourbon-themed Marriott Louisville East and Charr’d Bourbon Kitchen & Lounge have you covered.
14 QC Relish and Whisky May 2016
Photo credits: Kentucky Distillers' Association
Art Eatables, Westport Whiskey & Wine, Bourbons Bistro Take a detour to Art Eatables for delectable Bourbon truffles and other divine confections. Get your belly full and enjoy a wellcrafted Bourbon flight at Bourbons Bistro, and find some liquid treasures at Westport Whiskey & Wine.
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Jim Beam American Stillhouse
See every step of the process behind one of the world’s most noted whiskeys –Jim Beam. After your tour, make sure to grab some BBQ and ice cream at Fred’s Smokehouse.
Heaven Hill Bourbon Heritage Center Located in historic Bardstown, Heaven Hill is the nation’s largest family-owned spirits producer making brands such as Elijah Craig, Larceny, Henry McKenna and many others. After your tour, enjoy your samples in the barrel-shaped tasting room. Another familyowned distillery just one mile down the road is the craft distillery, Willett – home of Rowan’s Creek, Noah’s Mill and the Willett Potstill Reserve.
Maker’s Mark Distillery One of Kentucky’s most remote and charming distillery properties is well worth the trek. While at Maker’s Mark see the barrels aging sweetly beneath the Chihuly blownglass installment, and don’t forget to dip your own bottle in the gift shop. On your way through Lebanon check out craft distillery Limestone Branch Distillery where 7th generation Steve and Paul Beam continue the family legacy today.
Harrison Smith House
. .
For cured meats, unique cocktails and the best in southern fare, the HarrisonSmith House cannot be beat.
QC Relish and Whisky May 2016
Four Roses Distillery
Beaumont Inn
Enjoy a mellow moment at Four Roses Distillery in Lawrenceburg, where distilling is a long held tradition. Learn about each of the 10 recipes refined to produce one of the most winning Bourbons of recent history.
Settle in to Beaumont Inn for dining, drinks and relaxation in Kentucky’s first settlement. Grab a bite at the Old Owl Tavern and schedule a Bourbon tasting with the innkeeper for a special treat.
Woodford Reserve Distillery One of Kentucky’s oldest distilleries is still operating today. Woodford Reserve is set among horse farms and rolling bluegrass making it one of the prettiest drives on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail®.
Wild Turkey Distillery Just down the road you will find the Wild Turkey Distillery where father and son Master Distillers have worked for over 60 years to bring us Bourbon. If you’re lucky you might just bump into one of them.
Town Branch Distillery Lexington
has long
been known for its racehorses, but now it’s also known for its great Bourbon. Named after the river that flows under the city’s streets, Town Branch is a small distillery that is making a big name for itself. Run down the road to the old distillery district to visit the craft Barrel House Distillery as well.
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Distilled at Gratz Park, Ale-8-One Peruse their extensive Bourbon list and enjoy an exquisite dinner at Distilled at Gratz Park. Lastly, you can’t leave Kentucky without popping the top on Ale-8-One, Kentucky’s oldest surviving soft drink with a kick of spicy ginger. Kentuckians love to drink it straight or mix it up in a cocktail.
For more info, visit the Kentucky Bourbon Trail website.
Recipes courtesy: proof craft spirits
The Mint Divine
1 ½ oz proof whisky 6 torn mint leaves 5 oz lemonade garnish of 1 tbsp blueberries and a mint sprig
In a cocktail shaker filled with ice, add 1 ½ oz proof whisky, 6 torn mint leaves and 5 oz lemonade. Shake well and strain into a Collins glass filled with ice. Garnish with 1 tbsp fresh blueberries and a mint sprig.
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proof craft spirits
The 'proof is in' has never formally introduced you to the man behind proof brands inc. If you have not yet run into Michael and his cocktail kit peddling drinks at an LCBO tasting, Whisky Live, the Drinks Show or just racing around the city trying to find last-minute ingredients, well, now is your chance. Here is a little something about Michael that you probably did not know.
“My great great grandfather, William Milerius Magrath immigrated from Dublin, Ireland to Toronto, Canada in June of 1874 at age 42, bringing with him, his wife and six children. Two of his sons, my great grandfather, William Atkinson Sadlier Magrath and brother James Lawson Magrath finished their schooling in Toronto and then moved to Saskatchewan, bringing their Irish heritage and love of whisky with them. As part of the first fifty founding families of Yorkton, Saskatchewan, the brothers opened the only general store in town. Here, they were known to sneak a wee dram behind the counter with their closest customers. 30
Today, not only do I share my ancestors’ entrepreneurial spirit, but I have inherited my great grandfather’s passion for whisky. Which is why, keeping with tradition, I have created proof whisky, a blended spirit made from the grains of Saskatchewan and aged in that same Irish style. I think the Magrath brothers would have been proud.” Michael Riley Michael Riley, creator of proof brands inc. has been an industry professional for the past 12 years. Michael spent several years at Molson’s, Canada’s largest brewer and Seagram’s, working with such brands as Crown Royal, Absolut and Chivas Regal, before becoming Director of Spirits for the LCBO, the largest purchaser of beverage alcohol in the world. Here, Michael was inducted into the exclusive Keepers of the Quaich Society in 2008, in honour of his contribution to the Scotch Whisky Industry. He was guest speaker at many prestigious world spirits events, a judge of a few very notable cocktail competitions, and has sourced and tasted hundreds of luxury spirits from around the globe. In earlier years Michael worked for world class CPG companies such has Frito Lay and Campbells Soup Company. With proof brands, Michael has created a company that produces an artisanal brand of luxury spirits, which consumers can trust.
The proof is in‌the first brand of Canadian craft spirits
Our luxury craft spirits are distilled with pristine spring water from the Canadian Rockies and bottled at 42% alc./vol., to give them that extra 2% kick. Enjoy them on the rocks or in our swanky signature cocktails. Great things DO come in small packages. proof whisky proof whisky is the only Canadian whisky that blends Canadian prairie rye and wheat. It is then distilled with pristine spring water from the Canadian Rockies. It is then aged to perfection in charred oak barrels, creating its sophisticated sweet and smoky flavours. proof whisky was named as one of the best Canadian whiskies in Whisky Magazine’s 2011 World Whisky Awards. Tasting note: Lemon drops, lilacs and floral perfumes mingle with maple syrup, white pepper and sweet gingery spices. Fragrant sandalwood, saffron and spearmint in a bright, simple and engaging spirit. www.proofbrands.com website www.proofbrands.net for our blog filled with over 150 cocktail recipes along with food and entertaining tips.
QC Relish and Whisky May 2016
Quick guide
Johanne McInnis
to Beer and
Whisky pairings
Whisky and beer are essentially two sides of the same coin. Some would go further and say that beer is simply whisky that has not been distilled, yet. Both can often be described as fruity with notes of citrus just as well as flavours such as chocolate, roasted coffee or nuts. Whisky can be perfectly paired with a variety of different things like seafood, cheese and the most decadent of chocolates but honestly when I discovered how well it also paired with beer, that's when the experiments truly began. Over the course of a couple of years it was very apparent that certain beers and whiskies seemed to naturally pair with each other. There are no hard scientific rules since the palate is a very subjective and individualistic thing. However, the following 3 pairings are a simple guideline to start the journey into the creative and delicious world of whisky/beer pairings.
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QC Relish and Whisky May 2016
Witbier, White or sometimes called Blanche. Traditionally this category of beer is cloudy, fruity and on the yeasty side which is why I believe it pairs very well with bourbon. My favourite combination: Blanche de Chambly (Unibroue, Quebec apx. $12/for 6) and Buffalo Trace bourbon (apx. $41). The beer's light citrus and spice notes pairs well with the vanilla, citrus and caramel of the whisky. Truly a superb duo,
Indian or American Pale Ale. Often called the star of the hopped world, these are assertive, bitter and refreshing. A great pairing to try is the Forked River Riptide (Riptide Brewing, Ontario $4) with a great new whisky also from Canada called Stalk & Barrel 100% rye (Ontario $69). The spicy & bold notes of the whisky makes for a robust partnership with the Pale Ale. It's the powerhouse of pairings. Stouts and Porters. Dark, full bodied and satisfying to those who love them. This style of beer pairs fantastically with smoky scotches. Highly recommend trying the St. Ambroise Oatmeal Stout (Mcauslan Brewing, Ontario $3) with Bowmore 12 (Scotland $60). This combination is guaranteed to warm the bones as the stout's rich, velvety chocolate is truly a stellar partner for the sweet smoky flavours of the scotch. But as mentioned there are no rules. If the thought of spending 40-70 dollars for whisky is bit steep for a pairing experiment then consider visiting your local watering hold and asking the bartender for some of these lovely pairing ideas. No matter what you decide, just get out there and try it. You won't regret the journey.
What a better way to end the summer than by celebrating with
craft beer?
In its fifth year, Ottawa’s Craft Beer Festival is the largest of its kind in Ontario. Last year we had over 41 craft breweries and 165 different types of craft beer all under the same roof. Ottawa’s Craft Beer Festival returns to the Aberdeen Pavilion at Lansdowne Park from August 26-28. This year’s festival will offer samplings, seminars and a new feature: Craft Beer University. Do you have what it takes to graduate? Take a tour through our campus and learn about the craft beer industry. Find out the difference between an ale and a lager, the types of grains that are used, what aromas and flavours can be added, and chat with some home brewers. You can learn what it takes to make, and enjoy an exceptionally crafted beer from the best in the industry. Get the inside story from local, national, and international sources while sampling some of their best creations! Education is a key element of the Ottawa Craft Beer Festival. Our Brewmaster Seminars are back by popular demand. You get to enjoy the samples while learning from your favourite brewers. If your palate expands beyond barley and hops, we haven’t forgotten about you; there will also be a few types of cider for you to enjoy. If you’re looking for great food, some of Ottawa’s best eateries will be onsite all weekend.
Whether you’re there to try a new brew or an old-time favourite, there’s something for everyone. To find out more about the Ottawa Craft Beer Festival, check out: www.ottawacraftbeerfestival.ca. Tickets will be on sale soon.
Festival dates: Friday, August 26: 3 p.m. - 10 p.m. Saturday, August 27: 11 a.m. - 10 p.m. Sunday, August 28: Noon - 6 p.m.
STAND APART
The Glendalough Distillery was set up by five friends from Wicklow and Dublin with a deep passion for reviving the heritage of craft distilling in Ireland. In the 18th & 19th centuries there were over 200 licensed distilleries in Ireland and along with countless unlicensed ones, producing diverse styles of poitĂn, whiskey, gin and even absinthe. Until recently that dropped to a small handful. Glendalough Distillery is now part of a revival of this heritage. We make innovative spirits while staying true to the tradition and heritage of our ancestors. Initially we started with the first ever spirit, poitĂn and since then have moved to whiskey and most recently the release of our seasonal, wild botanical gins.
Recipes from Made in Italy, David Rocco HarperCollins Publishers Canada
il Famoso Filetto di Manzo di Zia Franca Aunt Franca’s Famous Beef Tenderloin
My aunt Franca from Naples is a fabulous cook, and we all wanted her to make this recipe whenever we visited. She made it so effortlessly, with just a few ingredients, yet it has all the attributes that a good beef dish should have. It’s also one of my earliest kitchen triumphs—very simple and, believe it or not, very forgiving. Because of the good quality of the meat, I recommend that you serve it medium rare.
4 fresh sage leaves 2 fresh bay leaves Salt and freshly ground pepper, QB Chili pepper flakes, QB (optional) 4 lb (2 kg) beef tenderloin 1–2 cups (250–500 mL) white wine, according to taste
6 tbsp (90 mL) extra-virgin olive oil 4 cloves garlic, 2 minced, 2 crushed but left whole 2 medium carrots, diced 2 stalks celery, diced 1 medium white onion, minced 2 sprigs fresh rosemary
QB Quanto Basta or “as much as you need”
46
For this dish, I suggest using a large pot, one that’s significantly larger than the piece of meat, because you want your ingredients to have space. So, in a large pot on medium heat, heat up your olive oil. Add all your vegetables, herbs, salt and pepper and, if you’re using them, chili flakes. It’s important to cook the vegetables on medium heat because you want to gently coax the sugars and flavors out of them. Let them cook for about 10 minutes, stirring once in a while. When they’re soft and starting to color, remove them to a bowl. Generously salt your beef. Turn up the heat to high and put in the tenderloin, searing on all sides until it browns and forms a crust. Remove the meat. Put the vegetables back in the pot, along with the white wine, and stir everything, scraping up the little bits on the bottom of the pan. Let the wine boil until it has reduced by half, turn the heat down to medium, put your beef back in and finish cooking for another minute or so on each side. At this point, turn off the heat and let the meat rest for about 15 minutes. I find this is enough to cook the beef to the medium rare that I like. But if you want it cooked a little more, you can put it into a preheated 350°F (180°C) oven and cook it for another 10 minutes. Or you can slice the meat, put it back in the pan and cook it on medium for another few minutes. To serve, slice the beef, then plate and spoon the vegetables, herbs and juices over top. Per 4–6 persone
TIRAMISÙ AL VIN SANTO Lazy Man’s Tiramisù
I call this my lazy man’s tiramisù, but there’s nothing slothful about the creamy mascarpone merging with the crunch of cookies infused with the liqueur and topped with as much chocolate as makes you happy. I call it lazy because it doesn’t take much time to put together, and it doesn’t have to sit like a classic tiramisù before you can eat it. If you can’t get your hands on cantucci (or cantuccini) cookies or Vin Santo liqueur, you can substitute regular biscotti and a port wine or even Grand Marnier. 1 lb (500 g) cantucci or cantuccini cookies 1 cup (250 mL) Vin Santo liqueur (or QB) 1 lb (500 g) mascarpone cheese 2 tbsp (30 mL) sugar (or QB) 3 1/2 oz (100 g) bittersweet chocolate, chopped (optional)
Bash up your cookies. You can just smack them with the bottom of a pan (which is very satisfying if you’ve had a bad day) or chop them with a knife (which can make you feel very “cheffy” if you’re in the right mood). Put the broken cookies into a cake pan and then pour half of the Vin Santo, or your liqueur of choice, over them. The goal here isn’t to drown the cookies. You want to give them flavor, but still have them retain their crunch. In a separate bowl, mix together the mascarpone, sugar to taste, and the rest of the liqueur, again to taste. If you want, you can also chop up some chocolate and add it here, or you can wait until the end and sprinkle it on top of the individual servings. I’ve done both and one method isn’t better than the other. Whatever you choose, mix this well, so that everything is nicely incorporated, and then spread the whole thing over the cookies, so that they’re fully covered. You can, if you want, go one step further and sprinkle chopped chocolate and chopped cookie bits over the whole thing. You can serve this tiramisù immediately. Per 6 persone
Italian Spritz For a long time, the Spritz was served exclusively in Northern Italy, but in the last few years it’s migrated throughout the rest of Italy and Europe. The fact that the Italian liqueur Aperol is low in alcohol makes this an easy, breezy cocktail you can have at any time of the day, and it’s perfect for a hot summer afternoon. I was introduced to the drink in Sicily and must have had it every day for three weeks straight. I highly recommend serving it, as the Sicilians do, with fresh mint leaves. Ice 2 oz (60 mL) Aperol 3 oz (90 mL) prosecco Club soda 1 slice orange, for garnish Fresh mint leaves Put some ice in a glass, add your alcohol, top up with club soda and give it a stir. Garnish with the orange slice and mint leaves.
Created by: Alex Collins, Glendalough Distillery
Holy Rosemary Method: Add whiskey, egg white and all other ingredients to shaker and dry shake (no ice) for a good while. Then add ice, shake again and then strain into a chilled brandy glass. Garnish with a sprig of rosemary. (1 part sugar, 1 part water and some rosemary sprigs)
Glass: Brandy Snifter Ingredients 2 oz Glendalough Double Barrel 1 oz Egg White .75 oz Lemon Juice .75 oz Rosemary Simple Syrup* 2 dashes Angostura Bitters
The
5 Steps To Appreciating Scotch Whisky
Colour
Is your whisky light gold, bright copper, or rich amber in colour?
Body
Does your whisky have a light, medium, or full body?
Nose
Which aromas do you recognize when you nose the whisky - is it malty, smokey, fruity, or chocolatey?
Palate
What characteristics do you notice on the palate -is it softly sweet, rich and fruity, or peppery and spicy?
Finish
Does the flavour remain for a long time or does It disappear quickly
62 Courtesy of The Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre
http://www.glencairnwhiskyglass.com/