Relish and Whisky Spring 2019 by Quintessentially Canadian

Spring 2019 Issue 14

Women And Whisky The

City of Craic

Secret Spirits Sixth Edition

Yukon Gold Whisky Oyster Tasting Wheel Lamb Marinated With Seaweed

Blair Castle The Keepers Of The Quaich

Signal Hill Spring Cocktails

Kensington Wine Market 25th Anniversary Compass Box Blend Compass Box is making Blended Scotch Whisky sexy again. We were honoured to have the opportunity to collaborate with John Glaser and his team on the creation of this amazing whisky. It is a rare, old, very special bespoke Blended Scotch Whisky. Exclusively available from Kensington Wine Market www.kensingtonwinemarket.com Social: @KensingtonWM

Editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

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Appreciate today. Anticipate tomorrow. Accept yesterday. Healthy lifestyle is what we all want, what we hope for, what we pray to be into existence, and wonder why it canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just be. We work hard. Play hard. Sleep hardly. And still we walk the path towards wanting a healthy result. No matter how hard we wish for it, throwing a coin into the water, blowing out

Tasting Events Across Canada

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your kid's birthday candles when nobody's looking, we really do have to make it happen on our own. Maybe some good friends around you lend a hand. A supportive word, or your favorite action movie demi-god inspires you. However you envision this to take form,we will all need to set a plan in motion of our own doing in the end. Balance is a good place to start. Everything in moderation. Nothing new, but its the patience and commitment we have to focus onto. Movement, nutrition and mindfulness. Oh, and a fine dram to pull it all into your reality. Moderation for all things we hold magical. Not Scotch with your eggs and bacon in the morning, like my favorite Prime Minister from over the pond, or a "shower scotch" but moderation. Enjoy you and the small steps. Appreciate the life you're in now and make your goals for the future. Apologize for the past misspoken ways and embrace what is to come. If it looks like something is coming and making you look away from your path, well then turn and run the other way, fast. It may be the Angels coming for their Share.

T H O U G H T S Robert Windover Editor|Publisher

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ISSUE 14 SPRING 2019 R|W

CONT ENTS

06 Editor’s Thoughts Being Yourself and Doing it Your Way

12 The City Of Craig Newfoundland Screech, Irish Charm, The Loaves and The Fishes

17 The Keepers Of The Quaich Established to celebrate the outstanding commitment of those who produce and promote the world’s finest distilled spirit.

22 Yukon Gold Whisky Malted Barley, Malted Rye, Malted Wheat and various Roasted Beer Malts.

26 Women And Whisky

The Kildare House Ottawa, Removing the Stigma of Who Typically Enjoys Whisky.

28 Secret Spirits

Indiegogo Campaign for 6th Edition Orders Including Smaller Mystery Whisky Packs.

31 Your Questions

Your Quarterly Curiousities Answered with Blair Philips

44 Signal Hill Cocktails Canadian Mule, Paper Plane, Brown Derby, Mint Julep, Signal Hill Caesar

50 Oyster Bars 38 Castle Blair, Scotland A Short History of a Castle, over 19 Generations, the Stewarts and Murrays of Atholl

43 Of Oysters And Whisky Pairing Regional Scotch with Local Oysters

A Few Rules to Help you Relax and Enjoy the Experience.

55 Seaweed

Kombu Dashi with Spirulina Rice and Salmon, Furikake Feta and Tomato Salad, Lamb Marinated with Seaweed

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#TOKITIME @suntorytoki whisky.suntory.com

Published Quarterly Enjoy all our issues online at www.qcrelishandwhisky.ca or download for free enjoy anywhere,everywhere Editorial Director Editor Artistic Director National Sales Manager Robert Windover Contributing Designer Mark Tenaglia Quintessentially Canadian Toronto, Canada Our Contributors Blair Phillips Davin de Kergommeaux Mary Gratzer Melissa Zilberberg John & Olive Mulvihill Dawn Collings Julia Sim Patrick McMurray Annabel Meikle Disclaimer Relish and WhiskyMagazine makes no warranties of any kind, written or implied regarding the contents of this magazine and expressly disclaims any warranty regarding the accuracy or reliability of information contained herein. The views contained in this magazine are those of the writers and advertisers, they do not necessarily reflect the views of Relish and Whisky Magazine and its publisher, Quintessentially Canadian. Relish and Whisky Magazine assumes no responsibility for unsolicited material. Relish and Whisky Magazine assumes no responsibility for content of or reply to any ad.The advertiser assumes complete liability for the content of and all replies to any advertisement and for any claims made thereof.

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The City of Craic Blair Phillips and Davin de Kergommeaux

“Are you sure it’s summer?” I ask through chattering teeth. His back braced against the numbing wind, Davin shows no interest in conversation or in the icebergs drifting by in the rough sea behind us. “This can’t be summer,” he grumbles.

ignal Hill in St. John’s, Newfounland. The very spot where one December day in 1901, Guglielmo Marconi received a wireless message from England, proving that transatlantic transmissions would bend with the curvature of the earth. If it’s this cold here in July, why he chose December is beyond comprehension. Perhaps he planned to warm up afterwards in one of the many watering holes beckoning across the harbour. St. John’s is a rum town with a budding underground whisky resistance. Gazing down on the brightly painted city we have planned our attack. And the notorious George Street, cloaked in all the dignity

12 March 2019 |

of a celebrity with a freshly leaked sex tape, is not in our crosshairs. Somehow though, that’s where we end up.

Newfoundland Screech It’s reported that George Street dispenses more beverage alcohol per square foot than any other destination in North America. Tourists and business travellers flock here to get smashed and “Screeched In.” Several sketchy vows of allegiance, three slammed shots of Newfoundland Screech (rum), and a kiss on the lips of a frozen codfish or a stuffed puffin’s backside, makes them a honorary Newfoundlander. Beer chasers follow, then more

shots, a visit to one of many streetside hotdog stands and shortly after that, the inevitable sidewalk pizza. Trapper John’s Museum and Pub near the foot of George Street proclaims itself the home of the screech-in. More than 100,000 pairs of screech-sodden lips have graced their puffin’s nether region. Yes, screech is alcohol and alcohol kills germs, but the seemingly scabies-free locals point vigorously to Christian’s Bar just up the street. With its warm décor and well-stocked bar, Christian’s doubles as an after-hours hangout for bartenders and staff. Afterhours means any time after 3 or 4 a.m.

www.qcrelishandwhisky.ca

Irish Charm The bartender at the Irish Newfoundland pub called O’Reilly’s, tells us that Newfoundland, lovingly called “The Rock,” has always been a rum province. It was just 30 years ago that whisky began to gain popularity here. Today’s spirit of choice is still Lamb’s Navy rum, but Canadian rye is a close second. Wiser’s abounds, and St. John’s has just the right ambiance to sample whiskies you might not try at home. Elsewhere you’d likely relegate Schenley Golden Wedding to a rye and

ginger, but here, after a few drams straight, you can skip the screech-in. You’re a local now by practice. In 1865, when Bridie Molloy was born in Couch Bay, more than half of Newfoundland’s 162,000 residents thought of themselves as Irish. They loved sitting around, drink in hand, “havin’ the craic,” and Bridie, we are told, was particularly gifted. Her great-grandson, Jerome Coady maintains this tradition in his Irish pub on George Street. Guinness and conversation flow freely from 11 a.m. to 3 a.m. in this well-stocked bar named (what else?) “Bridie Molloy’s.” “Have a coffee,” Davin insists, “If 3 a.m. sounds like late closing, this is St. John’s, get used to it.” Bridie’s is just one of 25 establishments keeping late hours in the few hundred steps from The Yellowbelly Brewery & Public House at one end of George Street to Siren’s Cabaret at the other. The Yellowbelly, named for an old Irish sect, was built in 1725, making it one of the earliest commercial buildings in North America. Two citywide fires, one in 1846 and the second in 1892, couldn’t destroy this place, so I’m not worried about Davin’s incendiary hotdog breath. We wander downstairs into The Underbelly where a scorched wooden beam is still exposed. It was rum in those days, but today, the bar draws on one of Newfoundland’s finest selections of Irish, Scotch, bourbon and Canadian rye whiskies. Several other George Street bars have decent selections of whiskies too. Yet, despite its high profile, George Street has not cornered St. John’s market on great whisky bars.

The loaves and the fishes Every visit to St. John’s must include a stop at the Duke of Duckworth, a few blocks away on McMurdo’s Lane. There’s a better

than average selection of spirits and draft, but the real attraction is the most delectable fish and chips in all of Newfoundland. I wonder what magical sea they pluck their cod from as I scan the room for a hipster dressed like Jesus, hoping he can turn my already miraculous portion into 5,000 more to take home. No such luck. I smack my lips, down my Quidi Vidi Iceberg lager, and we head on. From The Duke, it’s just a few steps to Water Street and several well-stocked whisky bars. The celebrity of Water Street originates not in some contrived publicity stunt, but from its critically acclaimed authenticity. Among the dive bars, Water Street is dotted with world-class restaurants and boutiques. It’s also the front line of the city’s whisky resistance. Here, bartenders quietly defy the cliché frat party convention of George Street, differentiating their digs from their neighbour’s through innovation and sophistication. And whisky is their spirit of choice. We pile into a cab heading for Liddy’s Bar, a short ride away in Torbay. Though a bit of a dive, Liddy’s is the oldest legal bar in the province, and with, “ugly stick” in hand, does a splendid screech-in. The regulars may be covered in tribal tattoos and have the vocal timbre of someone who brushes their teeth with a chainsaw, but they are friendly. “As long as you don’t feed the wildlife,” I whisper. But it’s too late. Davin pounds an India Beer as some local Queequeg guzzles a Black Horse Lager. The empty Black Horse hits the bar first and Davin pays. These formerly major Canadian brands still survive in Newfoundland. And so, I pray, will we. Yes, there’s many a checklist of charming clichés to follow when visiting St. John’s: climb Signal Hill, walk streets so steep the sidewalks turn into staircases, photograph colourfully painted “salt box” houses, watch whales and eat cod tongues. But to experience the real St. John’s, drop into any bar and minutes later you’ll be havin’ the craic with friends who only moments earlier were strangers. And if you really must feed them, they prefer their hotdogs pickled and with a dab of mustard.

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KEEPERS OF THE QUAICH by Annabel Meikle

The Keepers of the Quaich is an exclusive and international Society that recognises those that have shown outstanding commitment to the Scotch Whisky industry. Founded by the leading distillers, it is by its very nature, the beating heart of the industry. In establishing the Keepers of the Quaich, the industry pooled its influential resources to build a powerful society working together and united. The organisation is represented in over 100 countries and has only ever inducted 2,718 Keepers in its lifetime. Keepers of the Quaich are dedicated and passionate people from around the world who are proud to be part of a select society and who are dedicated to achieving greater appreciation of our magnificent spirit - Scotch Whisky. WHO ARE KEEPERS OF THE QUAICH?

The Society recognises outstanding achievement in those who work, write or evangelize about Scotch Whisky by honouring them with the title Keeper of the Quaich. A select few are invited each year to be distinguished with the role of Master of the Quaich, a rare and revered privilege. Among the select membership of Keepers and Masters are thousands of years of shared experience and knowledge. Keepers of the Quaich come from all corners of the world to accept their medal at a ceremony and banquet held behind closed doors at the Society headquarters at Blair Castle, in Perthshire. This is the ancient home and fortress of the Earls and Dukes of Atholl, and has the only legal private regiment in Britain. The Atholl Highlanders play a pivotal role in the banquets held only twice a year at Blair Castle. The banquets are attended by our Patrons who support the Society, recognising the legacy and tradition of our Scottish history. They represent our own royalty.

Fraser Morison, Past Master Of The Grand Quaich

THE PATRONS OF THE SOCIETY

The Patrons are The Right Honourable The Earl of Erroll, The Right Honourable The Earl of Elgin & Kincardine KT, The Right Honourable The Lord Macfarlane of Bearsden KT, Mrs Sarah Troughton, The Right Honourable Viscount Thurso, His Grace The Duke of Atholl, The Right Honourable The Earl of Dalhousie, His Grace The Duke of Argyll, The Earl of Hopetown and His Grace The Duke of Fife. The Grand Master is the head of the Society, this position will be held by Peter Gordon of William Grant and Sons Ltd, for two years. The position of Grand Master has previously been held by Sir Iain Tennant KT LLD, Sir George J Bull, Mr Michael Jackaman, Mr Ian Good CBE and Mr Patrick Ricard, amongst many other respected figures.

THE HISTORY OF THE KEEPERS OF THE QUAICH

The Quaich, the symbol of the Society, derives from the Gaelic â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;cuachâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, a simple cup. Traditionally these vessels were originally made of wood and not until the seventeenth century did they start to be manufactured in silver. The two handled quaich was used for whisky and is associated with trust, love and friendship. The Grand Quaich of the Keepers of the Quaich, measuring twenty four inches across and specially commissioned for the Society, is a magnificent example of contemporary silversmithing. Made from Sterling silver and carrying the Edinburgh hallmark, the Quaich with its unique base of ten year old burr elm presides at the heart of Society ceremonies. The Keepers of the Quaich take particular pride in the fact that the Lord

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Keepers Of The Quaich https://www.keepersofthequaich.co.uk/

• To maintain the continuing support of the Scotch Whisky industry in recognising the importance and value of the Society’s work in the promotion of Scotch.

The global success of Scotch Whisky

has been celebrated with 45 new members of the Keepers of the Quaich being inducted into the international society at a private ceremony held at Blair Castle in Blair Atholl on Monday 8th October 2018. Guests at the prestigious event were addressed by the international rugby star Sean Fitzpatrick, former All Blacks captain and the world’s most capped hooker.

Blair Castle, The Spiritual Home Of The Keepers Of The Quaich

Lyon, King of Arms, granted a heraldic achievement comprising a shield, crest and coat-of-arms.The Society motto, also bestowed by the Lord Lyon himself, is ‘Uisgebeatha Gu Brath’, which is Gaelic for ‘Water of Life Forever’. ‘Uisge’ is the Gaelic for ‘water’and the origin of the word ‘whisky’.The Keepers of the Quaich also have their own tartan. Based on a design of the 1700s, it is woven from pure wool and the colours represent the main constituents of Scotch Whisky: blue for water, gold for barley and brown for peat. Only Keepers of the Quaich earn the right to wear their tartan. The Keepers of the Quaich is an international community of people recognised for their outstanding commitment to Scotch Whisky. The Society’s mission is to celebrate the values and image of Scotch Whisky as the world’s finest and most prestigious distilled spirit.

THE AIMS AND OBJECTIVES OF THE SOCIETY The Keepers of the Quaich is an international community of people recognised for their outstanding commitment to Scotch Whisky. The Society’s mission is to celebrate the values and image of Scotch Whisky as the world’s finest and most prestigious distilled spirit. • To preserve the unique cachet and exclusivity of The Keepers, inducting only a limited number of new Keepers each year, and only in Scotland. • To ensure all members of The Keepers are well-informed on the Society and its activities so they are engaged on the mission to grow Scotch Whisky. • To support the international reach of The Keepers through active engagement with well-founded chapters of the Society in key markets for Scotch Whisky.

Keepers of the Quaich was established by the Scotch Whisky industry to recognise the outstanding commitment of those who produce or promote the world’s finest spirit.

To qualify, new Keepers must have worked in the industry for a minimum of five years.

To date, just over 2,700 men and women from more than 100 countries have received the honour. A select few are subsequently distinguished as Master of the Quaich. The society will award only five Masters of the Quaich at each ceremony of induction. Masters are those who, since being inducted as a Keeper over ten years ago, have made an exceptional contribution to Scotch Whisky. Collectively, the society represents many thousands of years of experience and knowledge. “Scotch Whisky was, and remains, the first global spirit and Keepers of the Quaich exists to recognise and celebrate the exceptional contribution of people working in all aspects of the industry, all over the world.” said Peter Prentice, Chairman of the Society. “At the ceremony we inducted new Keepers from no less than 20 different countries which demonstrates the continued popularity of Scotch Whisky.”

Ronnie Cox, Master Of The Grand Quaich

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SUCCESS IS BETTER SHARED

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Aberdeen Pavilion, Lansdowne Park, Ottawa

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MASTER CLASSES Friday, October 4, 2019 ALT HOTEL, OTTAWA

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whiskyottawa.ca Must be 19 years of age or older to attend this event. Please always drink responsibly and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t drink & drive!

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Yukon Gold Whisky by Davin de Kergommeaux

The days are long past when prospectors would stop to rest in Whitehorse before making the final leg of their journey to the Klondike gold fields. More recently, two Ontario boys, Bob Baxter and Alan Hansen discovered Whitehorse while paddling a canoe on the Yukon River. As new engineering graduates, the two had headed north to experience the Yukon’s rugged beauty before joining the workaday rat race. They were so struck by the territory’s pristine landscapes that they returned to Ontario, packed up their families and moved north to start a business. Yukon Brewing began making “beer worth freezing for,” in 1997. Today, the two brewers like to joke that their idea of making beer in the Yukon was conceived just as many Yukon babies are – by a campfire on a canoe trip.

Summers are warm and the days very long in the land of the midnight sun. In other words, beer-drinking weather. However, though winter in Whitehorse is not as cold as you might imagine, for a long period the sun stays below the horizon. In other words, it’s not beer-drinking weather. If you are a brewer, what do you do in those long winter months when the demand for beer tapers off? Baxter and Hansen decided that anything they could brew, they could distil, and in 2009 they installed a pot still to make whisky. They called their new enterprise Yukon Spirits. “We never intended that whisky would be a money maker,” says Hansen. Distilling it kept the staff employed and allowed him and Baxter to use their brewing skills in a new way. Making great

tasting whisky, after all, begins with brewing flavourful beer. The two set out to turn a variety of malted and roasted grains into whisky, using various fermentation techniques and an assortment of barrels. While they specialize in single malt whisky, unlike the Scots, the partners do not limit themselves to working with malted barley only. They also use malted rye, malted wheat and various roasted beer malts. Theirs is single malt whisky with a distinctly Canadian twist. And because they run a thriving brewery, Hansen and Baxter can afford to let the whisky mature longer than some other new distillers who need quick sales. As a result, Two Brewers whiskies age at least 7 years before they consider bottling them. Each batch of 800 to 1500 bottles is blended from a selection of barrels, making every batch a one-off. And because they are only releasing fully mature whiskies, the result is a wonderfully rich range that is beginning to put Canada on the world single malt map. In 2018, Yukon Spirits was named Artisanal Distillery of the Year at the Canadian Whisky Awards. Two Brewers whiskies are not yet available at the LCBO but they really are well worth seeking out if you travel to Alberta, British Columbia or the Yukon. These are highly recommended whiskies and single malt connoisseurs snap up each new release quickly. It was gold that brought the first settlers to Whitehorse and gold is the reason you should consider visiting Whitehorse too. Except it’s 120 years later and the gold you should be looking for comes in liquid form.

Yukon River In Whitehorse Yukon

The Woodcutter’s Blanket Pub In Whitehorse

22 | March 2019

The Barrel Room At Yukon Distillers In Whitehorse

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Women and Whisky

Cheers to International Women’s Day

by Dawn Collings

In October 2018, Phil Dangerfield and Dawn Collings, two Ottawa based Event Producers connected over a wee dram about creating a forum for women to come together and expand their whisky knowledge in an intimate and non-intimidating environment in an effort to remove the stigma about whisky and who typically enjoys it. After a couple more drams, we were deep into a discussion about the history of women and whisky, and uncovered the long and fascinating history that is deserving of being shared. Women have always been instrumental to the development of alcohol, whether pioneering brewing for the first time in history or setting up some of the greatest whisky distilleries. The influence and legacy of women who managed to succeed in what has traditionally been a man’s world has left a lasting impression in the whisky we get to drink. The only woman in history to own and manage a distillery in the 20th century, was Bessie Williamson of Laphroaig, whose illustrious career inspired many other women to fuel their entrepreneurial spirit. And so, we launched a Women and Whisky

26 | March 2019

series of Master Classes for women to learn about whisky this past February 2019. A hundred women, from University students, to business professionals, to members of the Diplomatic community, spanning legal drinking age to 81 years old, enthusiastically gathered for an evening of camaraderie and imbibing. We found this uniquely comfortable and historic venue, the Kildare House, in the heart of Sandy Hill, it was an ideal space for this type of event. We created a fun bar environment and did a “kitchen takeover” where guests were welcomed with a signature whisky based cocktail. The ladies then mingled and noshed prior to gathering in The Music Room to relax and enjoy a unique tutored tasting experience delivered by well renowned National and International Brand Ambassadors.

www.qcrelishandwhisky.ca

‘‘

enjoyed another whiskey cocktail before departing. And now, we start planning for our second Woman and Whisky show. The second of the Women and Whisky series will be presented on April 27, 2019 with “Cocktails by Campari.” Chris Thompson, Forty Creek North American Brand Ambassador, and Mixologist Jeffrey Roberts will be presenting. Guests will take a deep dive into 7 award winning Forty Creek expressions, hear about the distilleries unique history and unique whisky making philosophy, discover how different styles of whiskies bring out distinct flavours, and get the inside track on the creation of some killer cocktails - a fun night for novice and experienced enthusiasts. This collaboration and creating Women and Whisky has been a rewarding experience, the collaboration itself has turned into a partnership with Whisky Ottawa. Whisky Ottawa is one of the festivals Philip Dangerfield produces along with the Ottawa Beer Fest and many other events.

Whisky Ottawa Festival https://www.whiskeyottawa.ca/

a fun night for novice and experienced enthusiasts.

The Women and Whisky series of Masterclasses is here, and will grow into a strong part of the whisky education throughout the year. We all had so much fun. Thank you to the brand Ambassador Kate O’Hanrahan, Mike Brisbois and Spencer Gooderham for their time and sharing of their deep knowledge and perspectives on the brands of fine whiskys. The fantastic turn out made this not only a fun, but wildly successful first addition, hope to see you soon for a wee dram.

Kate Hanrahan, Mike Brisbois and Spencer Gooderham shared their intimate knowledge of their respective brands’ expressions, while weaving in the history and nostalgia of their distillery’s, from Speyside to Canada to Ireland. The boys, in particular, were slightly intimidated by a room full of whisky loving women! There was no shortage of interaction and stimulating conversation - the room was buzzing with enthusiasm. It was an evening enjoyed by all. The intermissions in between the master classes allowed for the opportunity to network, enjoy a little bit of food, and have a whiskey cocktail. These were well received. Kate Hanrahan, the Jameson Brand Ambassador, was our last presenter of the evening. No, don’t take it the wrong way, each of the master classes that evening were full of enthusiastic participants and everybody had a lot of fun. As Kate was the only female presenter, her master class talk fueled an even more exciting atmosphere. Kate was able to share, not only her knowledge of fine whiskey, but also her story of how she got involved in, and has grown to be, an international ambassador with the Jameson brands. At the end of Kate’s Masterclass, we conducted a little knowledge quiz and awarded winners with Davin de Kergommeaux’s Canadian Whisky books. As the evening wound down and the master classes were finished for the day, the ladies headed home or out to other events. Some hung around and chatted with other whiskey lovers and

March 2019 | 27

R|W Q & A with Secret Spirits

enough orders to ensure we can actually get the Scotch and make the 6th Edition, and if we do, THEN we will only make as many as were ordered. So effectively, the 6th Edition will be sold out before it even gets made! It’s going to be a mighty exclusive club this year. R|W: When does the Campaign start?

JB: On the 1st of March, the Campaign will go live and will run for only 43 days. R|W: How can people stay informed about the campaign? JB: They can go to https://www.secretspirits.com/indiegogo and subscribe to get the

ongoing updates that will include fun weekly videos and information about some secret perks we will be putting up throughout the campaign. R|W: Can you give us some insight into why your Scotch Whisky Advent Calendar is so unique?

Secret Spirits Relish and Whisky Magazine talks with Jonathan Bray of Secret Spirits. We had the chance to pull Jonathan away from his busy schedule to see how things are doing since we first got a look at his tasty Advent Calander. He shared a lot of new adventures for us to look forward to this year. R|W: Welcome back to QC Jonathan, it seems that Secret Spirits has been very busy since we last spoke with you.

JB: Thanks Robert, it has certainly been a fun and challenging journey as we have worked hard to make our adventures available in the US, UK, and Europe. R|W: I understand that you are producing your 6th edition Scotch Whisky Advent Calendar in a whole new way.

JB: That’s right, this is probably the most important year for Secret Spirits. It’s been 5 years since Cindy and I created the first ever Scotch Whisky Advent Calendar. To say that our journey has been a challenge, would be an understatement. Every step of the way we have had to push through regulatory challenges, traditional retail industry apathy, hundreds of moving parts, and logistics that make production always a hyper-stressful, last-minute affair. By the time everyone in the process gets their piece of the pie, we use the last Oliver-Twist-

28 | March 2019

sized slice of cash to start the journey all over again. For a small husband and wife team it has been exciting, to say the least. R|W: So what are you doing differently this year?

JB: We’re now at a point where we will not be able to make our 6th Edition Scotch Advent Calendar without help, so we are launching an Indiegogo campaign for 6th Edition orders and including some smaller mystery whisky packs and other cool things as well. R|W: So why crowdfunding?

JB: This year every penny is going to help and an Indiegogo Campaign allows for many levels of perks and support from our community of whisky lovers. The exciting part about doing this campaign is how exclusive it will make our 6th edition. If people want to join the Secret Spirits adventure in 2019, this will be the only way they can order the 6th Edition, and they will have only 43 days to do so. We must receive

JB: Even though we’ve always called our annual box of Scotch an “advent calendar,” presenting 25 days of Scotch from December 1st through Christmas Day, it is even more accurate to say simply each box has 25 doors. As you know, our unique “packaging gamification” of rarer whiskies in larger bottles offers far more than just whiskies you’ve never tasted before and won’t taste again: they take you on an imaginative adventure. The journey begins whenever you’re ready, and can last as long as you like. It’s the ultimate birthday, Christmas, anniversary and retirement gift for anyone who loves whisky. We pack five years worth of whisky tasting experience into every box, and every 50ml bottle has enough whisky in it for a few people to share the experience (or to just keep it all for yourself). Over the last 5 years, we have slowly built a community of people like you who have helped us continue to forge this brand new category in our industry. Through sheer passion for what we do, and because of the happiness it brings people all over the world, Cindy and I have put everything on the line to continue to dream big and create magic. R|W: Sounds like you have a lot of fun putting this together with your wife Cindy. Thanks so much for your time Jonathan, do you have a last word for our whisky community?

JB: Thanks so much again Robert for supporting our desire to take people on amazing whisky adventures. We humbly ask for everyone’s help so we can continue that dream.

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I would like to know if Guinness and Scotch can be combined. If so, what Scotch would work? St Patrick’s Day is coming up I would like to have two of my best drinks on hand. Keith, Philadelphia, USA A resounding Yes! Some variations on a traditional Boilermaker mix beer and whisky but since it is St Patrick’s Day, why not go for an Irish whiskey like Jameson? But, if you’re insistent on mixing Scotch with your Guinness, try a peated blend or single malt. The smokiness of Bowmore, Lagavulin, Highland Park or Bruichladdich will add a smoky layer to those malty Guinness flavours. Magazine

Tasting Events

With Blair Phillips

& Q A

I am an occasional Gin and Tonic drinker, with ice, lots of ice. I have been told not to add ice to a Scotch as it will change the flavour. I find it usually too strong without ice. Is this true? Jen, Toronto, Canada Yes, making anything cold will mute flavours and as ice melts, it will dilute the whisky. But, if that’s how you like it, then the person telling you not to do it, is the one that’s getting it wrong. Each to their own but I always suggest that people try a sip neat before hitting the freezer for ice. Whiskey is one of my favourite all time things to have with friends. It has to be Irish all the way. I am moving to Canada and was wondering if you can recommend any Whiskey we should try that would be like our own here in Ireland? Corey, Kildare, Ireland You’re not going to have much luck finding a Canadian whisky that tastes like Irish whiskey unless you see a small distillery with a small batch Irish-style release. But not all is lost, depending on which province you are moving to, Canadian liquor stores stock a healthy selection of Irish Whiskey. It has been pointed out to me that Glassware is important for your type of drink. Do you really need this or can I just have Whisky in a coffee cup? Nikesh, Chicago, USA This is subjective to your preference. Yes, a whisky glass, like a Glencairn, will help your nose focus on subtle flavours that will be harder to detect in a mug. The shape of whisky glasses also does a better job of delivering whisky to your flavour senses. But, if you’re sitting in front of a fire or going for a stroll through the neighbourhood, a mug is just fine.

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Blair Castle

A Short History of a Castle by Julia Sim

Over 19 generations, the Stewarts and Murrays of Atholl have backed winners and losers, fallen in and out of political favour, won battles and lost them. They have almost all, in one way or another, left their mark on Blair Castle.The story will take you from Mary, Queen of Scots to the Civil War, and from the Act of Union to the Jacobite cause and the disaster of Culloden, and from the Isle of Man to Queen Victoria’s love affair with the Scottish Highlands and her presentation of colours to the Atholl Highlanders. The earliest known part of the present castle dates from 1269 and is known as Comyn’s Tower. The original tower had an extension added to it by the 3rd Earl in 1530 to form a Great Hall (the present Dining Room) over a series of vaulted chambers below. In 1740 the 2nd Duke began his transformation of the medieval castle into a Georgian house that covered most of the footprint we see today. He employed Thomas Clayton to embellish the rooms with some of

38 | March 2019

the finest plasterwork in Scotland and commissioned furniture for the rooms from Scotland’s best known cabinet makers. Following the growing popularity of Scottish Baronial architecture, the 7th Duke commissioned the Edinburgh architects David Bryce and William Burne to remodel the exterior of the castle in the 1860s/70s. Crenallations and turrets removed during the Georgian period were reinstated, a new entrance hall was erected and a ballroom added. New gates were installed and the latest services including bathrooms, telephones and gas were introduced for the first time. During the Great War, the castle was used as an auxiliary hospital and from 1922 the family found it more convenient to live in the private apartments. For the new Millennium, architects Jamie Troughton and Hugh Broughton constructed a new exhibition hall known as the Banvie Hall. In addition, the 1908 hydroelectric scheme was reinstated, providing power for the castle.

- Atholl Estates consists of three main blocks of land, the largest lies to the north and east of Blair Atholl. - The combined estate covers 143,700 acres broken down into: Agriculture: 51,000 acres (5,846 ploughed, 45,154 rough grazing) DeerForest (open moorland): 78,800 acres - Woodlands: 14,000 acres (8200 commercial woods, 2,500 native pine wood) - Our head office is in Blair Atholl, adjacent to the castle, where we have a team of 7 administration assistants but we also have satellite offices at the caravan park and castle. - We employ around 75 full time and 60 seasonal staff. - The estate is heavily invested in tourism, mainly through our day visitor exhibition and private functions at Blair Castle and our 300 pitch caravan park. We also provide activities for visitors such as Land Rover tours, tractor tours and pony trekking. - Our two in-hand farms run 250 cattle and 2750 sheep, managed by a combined team of 7 men. - We employ 11 staff in our game keeping team to manage the various herds of wild deer that roam the estate and keep the heather moorland in natural balance which also provides some walked up grouse shooting during most seasons. They also run a small pheasant shoot. - We lease over 200 houses to locally employed people as their primary homes and a further 180 houses are provided to staff, retired staff and let farm staff. - Our maintenance team includes 6 multi-skilled tradesmen and a large team of self employed contractors to look after our build assets including the castle and tourism related infrastructure. - Forestry work covering harvesting and planting is mainly contracted out due to the scale and seasonality of these tasks but we retain a team of 2 staff who provide maintenance and specialist tree care service as well as deer control in areas of new planting. - We run a RANGER SERVICE in partnership with Cairngorms National Park to help the public enjoy access to the estate and manage their impacts to the land management operations. - Today Blair Castle is a 5 star visitor attraction, visitors see 30 rooms on a self-guided tour showcasing the castles vast collections of porcelain, furniture, ceramics and weaponry. Visitors may also wander through the grounds, visiting Hercules Garden, a nine acre walled garden and Diana’s Grove, famous for its tall exotic conifers. There’s also the ruins of St Bride’s Kirk, set against spectacular scenery. Farm tours, Land Rover safaris and 40 miles of track are available for those who wish to explore further.

Of Oysters and Whiskey by Patrick McMurray

was shuckin’ around a book sign ing event in Toronto for Michael Jackson some 20 years ago — not the singer/songwriter, but the beer hunter and whisky writer. After shucking oysters for the crowd, Mr. Jackson signed my book, “Try Oban and Oysters” and it got me to thinking... Coulis that work? It’s not going to work... many sommeliers have straight out told me so. Whiskey and oysters will not pair well on the palate. The whiskey will overpower.

Several years later, on a family trip to Skye, I had the pleasure of visiting the Talisker distillery. As I parked the car I saw a sign for the Isle of Skye Oyster farm that read, “Just 1 min up the hill.” As I crossed a wee bridge to get into the distillery it dawned on me, the stream that feeds the distillery also feeds the Oysters sweet water to balance the salt. Talisker and the Skye Oysters share the same environment — the sweet water, and the salt aire — this would match well... Then I really thought about it: I could get oysters from all of the major whisky producing areas like Scotland (Islay, Mull, Jura, Orkney) and other regions around the world like Ireland, Canada, USA, Sweden, Tasmania, Japan, India and beyond. Later at my pub in Toronto, Ceili Cottage, we had amassed a nice whiskey wall for the customers to enjoy and one fine fall day the oysters arrived (Irish, Scottish, French, and English). I pulled the whiskies to match, including the Oban that started this whole thing. Traditional “saucing of oysters” (when you place sauce over top of the oyster) is a process I teach people to avoid if they want to experience the true flavour of the oyster. “Less is more, like with lingerie” is what I like to say. Less sauce, more oyster. And I found that the whiskey poured over the oyster was not working. Then, I tried the Loch Ryan Scottish oyster on its own first: meaty, plump, ocean brine, earthy, sea-weedy, notes of wet

stone and light copper in the finish. Leaving a wee bit of brine (the oyster liquor) in the shell, next I tippled the Oban into the oyster-less shell. Not only does more whisky fit into an empty shell, but the malt marries with the liquor. Whisky meets ocean. Bright, cold salt, ocean breeze, caramel malt notes dance on the palate. A perfect complement to the ocean morsel enjoyed just moments before. The brine softens the alcohol heat, with notes of salt and caramel as a result. Let the pairings begin. Scottish oysters, Scottish whisky. Irish oyster, Irish whiskey. Canadian oyster, Canadian whisky. It’s best to try to get the oyster region as close as possible to the whiskey distillery using the Talisker/Skye oyster pairing as a benchmark of 200m distance. Next stop, smoking oysters. Imagine fresh, turf smoked oysters with regional whiskey wash to finish… it’s another level of experience. You take a Clarenbridge Bay oyster (Kelly’s oysters of Galway bay) and cold-smoke it with Connemara turf for a few minutes. Enjoy it on its own then tipple some Writer’s Tears whiskey to wash out the shell. And there you have it.

Left to Right -The English Whisky Co Mersea Rock Oyster -Breizh Breton Blend Fine de Claire, Brittany, France -Oban 14 - Loch Ryan -native Stranraer, Scotland -Tyrconnell - Clarenbridge Bay Rock Ireland -Teeling - Galway Bay native – Ireland

Next level -Fresh Smoked Oysters -Connemara, Irish Turf (peat) -Clarenbridge Bay Oysters - Ireland -Writer’s Tears Irish Whiskey

March 2019 | 43

F L A V O U R

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The Goods

2 oz. Signal Hill Whisky 1 oz. Lime juice Ginger beer

他 oz. Signal Hill Whisky 他 oz. Aperol 他 oz. Amaro 他 oz. Lemon juice

Fill a stainless steel or copper mug with ice. Add Signal Hill Whisky and lime juice. Fill the glass with ginger beer and stir to mix.

Recipe

The How To

Add ingredients to a cocktail shaker. Shake and strain into a coupe glass and garnish with a lemon peel.

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Brown Derby

Signal Hill Caesar The Goods

Signal Hill Whisky Celery salt Clamato juice Worcestershire sauce Tabasco sauce Lemon wedge Salt Pepper Crushed ice Garnishes

The How To

Rim a highball glass with celery salt. Fill the glass with crushed ice. Add 2 oz Signal Hill Whisky, 4 oz Clamato, a dash of Worcestershire, a dash of Tabasco, salt, pepper and squeeze of lemon. Stir and garnish to your liking.

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Mint Julep

The Goods

The How To

Add ingredients to a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake and strain into a coupe or old fashioned glass. Mix equal parts honey to water and bottle.

46 | March 2019

2 ½ oz. Signal Hill Whisky ¾ oz. Simple syrup 4-5 Sprigs of mint

The How To

Add mint and simple syrup to a julep cup. Use a muddler to bruise the mint until the aroma of the oil is released. Add Signal Hill Whisky, fill with crushed ice and stir well until the glass becomes frosty. Garnish with a sprig of mint.

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Oyster Bars, Oyster Stars An oyster bar can be a daunting place for a first-timer. You can take along friends who know about oysters, but if you decide to go on your own, more power to you. by PATRICK McMURRAY

Here are a few rules to help you relax and enjoy the experience.

1. Sit at the bar. Whether you’re alone or with friends, there’s no better place to learn about oysters. It’s like sitting at the chef ’s table in a fancy restaurant — you’re in the middle of all the action. The shucker will also help you choose what to drink, and he or she will design a plate of the best oysters in the house to suit your needs. Make friends with your local shucker and you won’t go wrong.

(Psst… It’s also a great place to meet other oyster lovers!) 2. Check out the oyster menu. If you’re sitting at a table, feel free to come up to the bar and speak to the shucker. Ask for a dozen, made up of different varieties, to start. Then you can choose your favorites for the next round.

3. Be patient. A good oyster bar shucks oysters to order, to ensure you get the freshest possible product. Sometimes this creates a backlog of orders, especially during peak hours. While you’re waiting, have a little bread or order some appetizers from the kitchen. There’s no rule that says you have to eat oysters first.

4. Don’t cover oysters with a ton of sauce. Olimpia oysters

Mother Nature planted the seed, a farmer grew it from 18 months to seven years — and you want it to taste like ketchup?! I don’t think so. If you like sauce, that’s okay, but let the oyster tempt you into enjoying it naked from time to time.

50 | March 2019

5. Don’t cut into a raw oyster on the half-shell before eating. A large oyster doesn’t spend years in the water for you to cut it into small pieces. Choose a smaller oyster instead.

6. The best place to slide the oyster into your mouth is the lip side, not the hinge. Slide it in and chew it up — this way you will truly experience the merrior, the flavor of that oyster species, from that region, on that day. Each oyster will be slightly different, which makes them so much fun each time.

7. Two-bite chew, and aerate. Take in some air across the palate. Like in tasting wine, or anything else, the olfactory aids your sense of taste. As you breathe in, you’ll notice the flavor changing, developing. Depending on the oyster, you may experience salt, sweet, butter, seaweed, earth, wet stone, or dry tannic copper.

8. Swallow, and think of the oyster some more. As the flavor develops further, deep as the ocean, and just as refreshing, think about the oyster and where it came from.

Now, you can decide to try another one , or a dozen.

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9. How people stack their shells says a lot about their personality. If you don’t receive a plate or bucket for the shells, I would suggest replacing them upside down on the platter on which they were delivered. Sometimes, when I’m clearing tables, I discover that someone’s made a nice design with the empty shells. I applaud this, as it shows that the oyster eater is contemplating the oyster and its existence, not just eating it and throwing out the garbage.

10. Like grandma always said, “If you ain’t got nothing nice to say about oysters, say nothing at all.” This rules applies, especially when sitting in front to the oyster shucker. Keep it to yourself, thanks. Look around you, these folks are eating this and trying to enjoy their meals. Have you ever tried an oyster? No? Well then, let’s chat.

11. Raw oysters aren’t for everyone. Raw oysters contain micro-organisms, plankton, algae, and bacteria that a healthy adult can handle, but they may not sit well if you’re young, pregnant, elderly, or have a weakened immune system. When in doubt, call the doctor out. I advise pregnant women to enjoy their oysters cooked until after the baby is born.

12. One more thing...

A perfect pairing: Champagne and a Galway Bay oyster

The Oyster Eaters, a caricature by Louis-Leopold Boilly

Call me what you want, but please don’t call my oysters fishy. Oysters are fresh, clean, salty, sweet, briny, milky, steely, mineral, chalky, or bitter, with hints of seaweed, driftwood, and mushroom, among other flavors. They are not fishy. Even fresh fish shouldn’t taste fishy. To me, it’s a derogatory term that should be used only to describe poor-quality seafood.

March 2019 | 51

Patrick McMurray, world record holding oyster shucker, has written an insightful and entertaining guide to the pleasure of one of the oldest and mostuniversal delicacies in the world- the oyster. Nothing is as complex in its simplicity as the taste of an oyster. Salty, sweet, briny notes of merrier-the flavors change from country to country, from week to week, and according to the season. The oyster companion is rich in history and lore providing everything you could want to know about the oyster, how to enjoy them injury free and compares the differences between 50-varieties found world-wide. This is the essential guide to the world of oysters.

Patrick’s Tasting Wheel

‘‘

As I’ve said, oyster tasting is a lot like wine tasting. 52 | March 2019

I recommend that you chew your oyster a little bit, two bites, and aerate ( take in a

little air through the mouth) to allow the flavors to cross the palate and develop fully. I’ve been describing oysters like wine for years now. People are amazed when I tell them how the oyster they’re about to enjoy will taste, and when. As with everything from nature, flavors will change throughout the season and according to location. So go forth, young oyster connoisseur, and open your palate to the bounty of the sea. Just don’t top your oyster with sauce first! “Patrick’s Tasting Wheel: for oyster aficionados” / Art Credit © Gregory Kit

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KOMBU DASHI with spirulina rice and salmon

If you don’t have spirulina powder on hand then this recipe works very well without it — we loved the color it gave to the rice. Serves 1 2 pieces of dried kombu ½ cup + 2 tbsp (150 ml) water ⅓ cup (60 g) brown rice ½ tsp spirulina powder (optional) 1 salmon fillet Seaweed Salt (see page 32), or sea salt 1 tsp olive oil 1 tsp unsalted butter 1 tsp tamari freshly ground black pepper nasturtium leaves, to garnish (optional) Combine the kombu and water in a saucepan. Leave to sit until the kombu softens, about 30 minutes. Bring to a boil, then take off the heat and remove and discard the kombu, reserving the broth. Meanwhile, wash the brown rice a few times in cold water and then cook according to the packet instructions. Brown rice takes longer to cook than white rice and has a nutty bite to it. Put the hot rice into a large bowl and add the spirulina, if using, mixing thoroughly. Season the salmon fillet with Seaweed Salt. Place a nonstick pan over a medium-high heat and add the olive oil. When it’s really hot, place the salmon fillet skin-side down in the pan. Cook (don’t move it around the pan) until you see the flesh of the salmon turn light pink half way up the fillet. Turn the fillet over and add the butter to the pan. If you like your salmon a little rare in the middle, take off the heat after about 30 seconds, longer if you prefer it cooked all the way through. Take off the heat and place it skinside down on some paper towels to absorb any excess oil. To serve, place the rice in the center of a bowl. Place the salmon on top and pour in the dashi broth. Add a splash of tamari and season with a little Seaweed Salt and black pepper. Garnish with nasturtium leaves, if using.

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FURIKAKE FETA AND TOMATO SALAD This quick salad is beautiful and full of fresh flavors. The vine leaves are optional, but do add a lovely crunch. We discovered that nori furikake and feta go together brilliantly — all that natural saltiness cuts through the sweet tomatoes. Serves 4 7 oz (200 g) feta, drained and cubed 2 tbsp Furikake 4 tbsp pumpkin seeds 1 lb (500 g) mixed heritage tomatoes 2 tbsp Seaweed Oil or extra virgin olive oil For the crispy vine leaves (optional) 6–8 vine leaves sunflower oil, for frying

This is a recipe that uses seaweed and leftover pickling liquid to brine meat, which makes it wonderfully tender, flavorsome and easy to cook. Serves 2 ½ cup + 2 tbsp (150 ml) pickling liquid 2 pieces of kombu, each large enough to wrap a steak 2 lamb leg steaks 1 nori sheet, halved 2 tsp olive oil Seaweed Salt 200 g broccolini 1 radicchio, quartered purple basil, to garnish (optional) Gomashio, to garnish (optional) For the miso dressing 1 tbsp sugar 1 tbsp miso paste 1 tsp sake 1 tsp mirin 1 tbsp yuzu or lemon juice scant ½ cup (100 ml) buttermilk Bring the pickling liquid to a boil in a small saucepan. Once boiling, add the kombu pieces, remove from the heat and set aside until the kombu has softened. Wrap each steak first with nori and then kombu and place in a small container or bowl. Allow the pickling liquid to cool and then pour over the wrapped steaks so that the meat is covered by the liquid. Leave to marinate in the fridge overnight. To cook the steaks, remove from the pickling liquid and unwrap (discard the kombu, nori and liquid). Pat dry with paper towels and rub with a little olive oil. Place a grill pan over high heat; when very hot add the steaks and sear for 2 minutes on each side for medium-rare, longer for well done. (The steaks will cook quickly because they have been brined.) Take out of the pan and rest on a meat board, seasoning with a little Seaweed Salt. In the same pan, grill the broccoli until it looks charred, then remove from the pan and repeat with the radicchio. Meanwhile, whisk all the dressing ingredients together. Place the broccoli and radicchio in the center of two plates and top with sliced lamb. Drizzle with a little dressing and garnish with purple basil and Gomashio, if using.

In a bowl, toss the feta in the Furikake. Toast the pumpkin seeds in a dry frying pan over medium heat until they begin to color. For the crispy vine leaves, if using, heat the sunflower oil in a frying pan and when hot fry the leaves until crispy. Arrange the tomatoes and feta in a serving dish and scatter over the pumpkin seeds and crispy vine leaves. Drizzle with Seaweed Oil.

LAMB MARINATED WITH SEAWEED

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elish and Whisky Magazine is a magazine representing he specific field of Food and Drink in North America.

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https://www.kerrybogvillage.ie/bar-restaurant/

The Red Fox Bar

Irish coffee perfectionists.

58 | March 2019

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The History & Recipe of Irish Coffee Speciality of

The Red Fox Inn

The Red Fox Inn is situated immediately beside the Kerry Bog Village and is an ideal place to stop and enjoy a drink or a tasty meal. Our Irish Coffees are world famous and a discount is available to visitors who purchase a ticket for the Village. The Red Fox Inn is unique in that there is always an atmosphere of contentment and happiness which visitors find is Kerry's magic potion. The Mulvihill family feel that courtesy and politeness to visitors is equally important as the food and the drink served there.

The Kerry Bog Village, located on the beautiful Ring Of Kerry gives you a fascinating insight into how people lived and worked in Ireland in the 18th Century. The village is the only one of its kind in Europe and is one of Kerry's leading tourist attractions.

Kerry Bog Village Museum, Ballincleave, Glenbeigh, Co. Kerry, Ireland info@kerrybogvillage.ie Tel: 00 353 (0)66 97 69184, Fax: 00 353 (0)66 97 69477

In 1940, Joe Sheridan, a Chef at Shannon Airport in County Clare invented the Irish Coffee. There was always a great tradition in Ireland of lacing a beverage with a strong spirit which was referred to as “ a drop of the craythur”. Today the practice has been perfected by adding Irish Whisky to a cup of coffee and it gives a warm feeling to a tired and weary visitor. Joe’s recipe for Irish Coffee is as follows. Take a steamed glass, pour in a ¼ gill (standard measure), or 4 tablespoons of Irish Whisky. Add 2 teaspoons of brown sugar and boiling coffee to within ¾ inch of the top of the glass. Stir briskly until sugar is completely dissolved. Add cream, lightly whipped and pour over the back of a teaspoon so as the cream will not sink. To enjoy the full flavour of your Irish Coffee, do not stir when cream is added. Ireland is known worldwide for its Cead Mile Failte (=100,000 welcomes). Our Irish Coffee is our best ambassador. Not only does it look beautiful, it is also truly delicious and made up of 4 ingredients, Irish Whiskey, brown sugar, coffee and fresh cream. It is known to be slightly flirtatious. When you have tried one, a feeling within you wishes for another. Here at the Red Fox Inn Restaurant, admidst the beautiful Boglands of Mid-Kerry, we salute Mr. Joe Sheridan and say “well done, you have brought much delight and happiness to visitors to our country.” Wherever you see people proposing a toast, at weddings, holidays or race meetings, you will find the atmosphere of that time honoured drink –Irish Coffee. John & Olive Mulvihill

Enjoy Glendalough Sensibly.