QWHO Magazine ||| Issue #001 ||| Preview

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PHOTOGRAPHY DUDY DAYAN FASHION DIRECTOR ORI LEV MODEL STAV

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ISSUE 001 ||| PRE-FALL 11’ 3.00£ ||| MADE IN LDN-TLV

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EDITOR IN-CHEIF & FASHION DIRECTOR - ORI LEV FASHION EDITOR - MAY LEVY MUSIC EDITOR - OR TEPPLER CONTRIBUTING MUSIC EDITOR - BEN INNS FEATURES EDITOR - ZOHAR FURMAN CULTURE EDITOR - SHANI MISK BEAUTY EDITOR - ITZIK VAKIL ONLINE EDITOR - GEORGE FOXTON PR & ADVERTISING EXECUTIVE - MAX CHERKTOV GRAPAHIC DESIGNERS - RAMI KOREN , SIVAN LEVI , MARC ROSELIN. FASHION ASSISTANT / ASSISTANT TO THE EDITOR IN-CHEIF - PETITE MELLER CO-PUBLISHERS - PAUL STAIN / ORI LEV PHOTOGRAPHERS - DUDY DAYAN,LARS WABER,MADISON,RON KEDMI,DANIEL KAMISNKY, KARIN BAR CAMILLA ROBINSON, AMANDA DE SIMON, MEAGAN CIGNOLI,SHAY KEDEM. WRITERS - DOR WOUND, MAYA FARGI, MAYAN TEPPLER, SIMON RICHARDSON, OLIVER, YOAV GANOT. SPECIAL THANKS - ELINOR SHAHR AND EVERYONE AT HER AGENCY FOR ALL YOUR HELP, FELICITY CARTER PR ZAVIK DROR PR,DESIGNSPACE ART GALLERY,YS STUDIOS.

QWHO IS PUBLISHED BY Q-STAR PUBLICATIONS, “QWHO MAGAZINE” & THE “QWHO” LOGO ARE THE SOLE PROPERTY OF THEIR RESPECTIVE OWNERS AND ARE PROTECTED BY INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT LAWS. FOR ANY INFORMATION PLEASE CONTACT US - INFO@QWHO-MAGAZINE.COM.

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GOT SOMETHING TO SAY? WRITE TO US - LETTERS@QWHO-MAGAZINE.COM

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Born and raised in hanover (Germany). started photographing from curiosity and to receive some skills for school. But never learned it in school. All learning by doing. So now I’m stuck on photography. My passion.

Edgy faces, interesting authentic people, flaws and personality inspire and move me.

“I love showing different work, different people, different emotions.”

MADISON

LARS WABER

Dutch artist Madison (1974) is intrigued by discovering the dark side of everything in the light of true beauty and strongly believes that, in a way, beauty IS the beast.

Before becoming a photographer in 2009, Madison was a graphic designer for many years until he lost his job when the crisis hit. He soon picked up a camera.

CONTRIBUTERS MEAGAN CINGOLI

29 years old. I live in NYC. I studied Fashion Design and Fine Arts at FIT and Photography at SVA and ICP. I have been shooting fashion photography and portrait photography since 2003.

Fashion is absolutely art. It is a form of creativity, creating with fabrics, textures, colours, prints, and design. For me, my job is an outlet of creativity, an opportunity to create fantasies with other talented people who have the same visions.

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008.STREETDOG 012.QWATCH/TIM RHYS 014.THE LAYREZ019.MEET THE INDIVIDUA CIGNOLI028.L’ETRANGER030.I WAS A REG JANECARR038.ALONLIVENE042.CULUTRE ROOTOFDIFFRENET077.EXPRESION087.86

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EVANS 013.QMUSIC/LUKE VIBRET ALIST(S)021.COLORFALL.027.MEAGAN GULAR GAGA FAN031.MENSFALL037.

ELOVE044.REDFALL.061.CUT067.

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How do we define a generation?

It’s been a question that has been hunting me for quite some time.

Wikipedia defines it as “people who were born in the same date ran deeper than that and started to explore my (our) generation.

Currently I’m writing to you from a place where equality or in that c sion and original thinking as given place to just wanting to be like e My awakening and uncontrollable desire to book a flight ticket cam coffee+marlbro light break, I got a message from a guy on Faceboo time and while I usually don’t do dates something inside sort of pus to come). after setting the date and all mr. (Let’s call him x) said if h around town, and that skinny jeans of yours looks very feminine an along with a few other requests .

I wont go into my response, but at that moment it really hit me - ho don & Milan where I discovered that a generation is defined mostly people who re-invent and inspire, people who sticks to being origin We cling to the greatness of those who came before us and wish to My own moment of enlightenment came while I was walking about ured out that while our generation is defined by online hocking,inst are still those who are moving things down below, behind closed do music,fashion & art.

QWHO was born for you - the people who aren’t afraid of exploring, religion it sets to re-define fashion, re-discover music and to create And so, after a long journey I’m more the proud to give you this first discover scenes, self expression and who to truly become the issue I want to thank all the amazing people that took part at making the

And to mr.x this issue is dedicated to you and to all the other narrow

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nge and share similar cultural experience”, but I wanted to go

case quality are words to be used lightly a place where self expreseveryone else. me on one typical Tel-Aviv sunny afternoon while I was enjoying my ok that has been buging me to meet him for coffee for quite some shed me to say yes, so I did (only to be overwhelmed by what was he could ask me for a favour, I of course agreed - “I’ve seen you nd is there a way you can maybe hide your tattoos?”, So he said

ow truly thankful and lucky I was for the years I’ve lived in Lonby the people who live to define it, people who challenge society, nal, a message that somehow went missing in our generation. o take their place instead of trying to find our own. t the streets of east London where individuality is a must, I figtant love, Lady Gaga & the constant attempt at being “cool”, there oors & small clubs, people who perform, design & create new

,defining,creating and being original, its no borders, countries or e new art, while being a platform for new talent to be discovered. t issue of QWHO called “BTHEISSUE” in this issue of QWHO you will e. dream that was QWHO become a reality.

w minded people out there, I really hope you’ll be inspired.

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STREET DOG! PHOTOGRAPHY KARIN BAR FASHION DIRECTOR ORI LEV TEXT ORI LEV MODEL ANDRAY @ ELINOR SHAHR PERSONAL MANAGEMENT

Meet Andray Tel-Aviv’s “bad boy” Model and QWHO’s First issue cover star.

I first saw Andray while performing the impossible task of trying to find a model which will actually live up to “BTHEISSUE” (Not an easy task in the Israeli Modelling market).Andray is 23 years old and comes from Rishon L’tzion which is a city out side of Tel-Aviv, his UNDERCUT and “Street Dog” look Gained him the cover the minute I saw him, it was me finding my Local muse on first sight so while shooting the cover I took the time to sit down and chat with my new fav which turned into the interview you see here.

Why did you decide to become a model?

I didn’t actually woke up one day and decide to become a model...Some friends of mine sent over pictures of me to Elinor Shahar ( Andray’s agent) and things just went on from there, I got to participate in Castro’s ( The Israeli version of H&M) Commercial and now I’m doing your cover.

Do you fancy being called a model?

I never dreamed that I’ll ever do something like that, it’s cool but I don’t let get into my head.

So I’m not really sure if I fancy it or not. 50-50.

What are you into when not modelling?

Drinking, skating sleeping till 18.00, Just living.

Who would you describe your personal style?

I like wearing things that kinda shows off who I am but at the same time I don’t give to much attention to what I’m wearing, I like skinny jeans, Trainers, A shirts or polo shirts at the end it all comes down to the mood I’m in.

Where do you see yourself in let’s say 10 years?

Still young hopefully, still able to drink a lot and have a good time and doing your 10 years anniversary cover.

How would you define being the issue?

Being yourself and not letting yourself fall into the mainstream thinking or way of life, I hate it when everybody looks the same or trying hard to become “Cool” you just need to be yourself and show what you got.

PS Ladies and maybe Gents Andray is single and open for action.

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QWATCH / TIM RHYS EVANS / TEXT ZOHAR FURMAN Tim Rhys-Evans comes from Aberdovey in Wales, he joined London College of Fashion MA Fashion Design and Technology Womenswear after gaining a prestigious Harold Tillman scholarship. Tim has already created a buzz in the media with his BA collection which won the British Fashion Council Creative Cutting Award at Graduate Fashion Week in 2008.

He has interned with Gareth Pugh and more recently has worked as a pattern cutter for Jaeger and got the support from the big fashion influentials forces like Katy England (creative director of McQueen), Fran Burns, Clare Richardson and Nick Knight.

Tim’s work has an air of surrealism and fantasy and plays on ideas of escapism heavily influenced by the times in which we live – of recession and uncertainty. Seeping through as a theme are Gothic overtones and Elizabethan dress, characterized by the hegemony of the color black and reflecting a new take on female power dressing. Giving the feel of Referencing some of Tom Ford’s designs for YAL and Gucci from the beginning of this millennium, his design still manage to look original as well as appealing. Using the ruff as a starting point Tim has created contemporary silhouettes, focusing on the upper body and eliminating the neck and shoulders from view.

What is the story behind the collection?

“My A/W11 is a collection for the modern day Elizabethan women, the slick fairy tale Queen who wants to take control – not someone who waits to be rescued like the foolish Princess.”

Is there any kind of special and delicate craftsmanship that went to the cloth?

“Each of the fabrics used in aw/11 were challenging within their own way.

Working with vintage French Chantilly lace, having to consider the delicate repeat pattern meant that while designing with the fabric I had to eliminate as many seams as possible so that it did not interfere with the delicate pattern. Whilst trying to achieve the desired fit.

What attracted you to become a fashion designer?

I think Fashion for as long as I can remember has always intrigued me. I think the thing that really fascinated me was the idea of the clothes your wear being an extension of your personality.

I love the old fashion houses of the 1940’s. Dior is one of my top. I love how feminine and well turned out women used to look. Right now I really love what Alber Elbaz does at Lanvin. The collections are quite classic with a twist which is similar to my own design style.

When I start designing a new collection I always create a fictional women in my mind that I see wearing the clothes and decide what her personality is like,what she likes to do and where she would hang out. That becomes just as much part of the design process as actually designing the clothes.

PHOTO - PR

“I think Fashion for as long as I can remember has always intrigued me. I think the thing that really fascinated me was the idea of the clothes your wearing being an extension of your personality.”

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Who is the woman wearing this clothes?

The TRE woman is strong, powerful, feminine and does not suffer fools gladly!

She desires individuality in her style of dress; she loves one off pieces and likes to stand out. She is critical of the mass produced clothing industry, particularly its environmental and social detrimental effects. She buys garments that are meant to last, to be seen as an investment.

QMUSIC / LUKE VIBRET / TEXT DOR WOUND I came to this world in the 1980’s so I really wasn't exposed to the electro scene of 90’s.

As a boy I was forced to be like everyone and buy all of the “Hitman” cd’s which included some fine work of art such as - “Coco Jumbo”,”Barbie Girl” and if I was really lucky I would have gotten a song by U-2.

As an adult I’m glad to say that I’m free of being like everyone else and I have London to thank for it, I’ve been living in the English capitol for a year and I’m still trying to get the hang of it all...”Rock”,”NewPunk”,”Electro”,”R&B” and countless more musical styles define the city and the people living in it.

My musical revelation came in the form of the amazing Luke Vibret.

Vibret, now 39 started rocking the alternative electro scene back in the end of 80’s, today he has more then 20 albums and he’s considered to be one of the most influential players in Electronic Music.

Vibret, was born in Cornwall a small city in the south of England that as produced some of the greatest artists and performers of our generation.

“At the end of the 80’s, everyone in town know who Richard David James (better known as Aphex Twin) was, and he was the only one doing this sort of things, i remember hearing that he made an album from his own bedroom and that’s what pushed to start doing my own music” Said Vibret.

His doubt album (Weirs) was released in ’93 under the label Reflex, the album was a mix of Hip-Hop & Beats and was considered to be a revolutionary and conceptual album mainly because it was made in a home studio, a rare thing for that time.

Shortly afterwards Vibret signed up with the record company “Rising High” and started producing under various labels.

PHOTO - NINJA TUNES

“At the end of the 80’s, everyone in town know who Richard David James (better known as Aphex Twin) was, and he was the only one doing this sort of things, i remember hearing that he made an album from his own bedroom and that’s what pushed to start doing my own music”

Over the course of the 1990’s, Vibret released 8 albums such as “Big Soup”,”Drum and Bass for Papa”,”Tally Ho!” And more earning himself a reputation for being one of the masters of Electronic music.

At the dawn of the 21st century Luke continued to work now collaborating with various artists like “BJ Cole”,”DJ Pod”,”Dj Vadim” and more releasing many joint albums, in 01’ Luke signs up with “Ninja Tunes” - one of the biggest electro music record companies in the world.

In 02’ Vibret embarks on a worldwide tour with Aphex Twin, “He his my inspiration”, said Vibret when asked about their relationship - “Richard and myself are really good friends, we always play together in his studio (which his amazing btw) we can sit in there for hours and hours just to make tunes, but it’s nothing i would ever publish”.

About a year ago Vibret under “Ninja Tunes” Recorded his latest album called “Tomorrow”, Which was only released now, the album is a mixture of Vocals,Melodies & Beats that only Vibret can make.

Check out Luke’s Myspace page to keep up2date of upcoming shows & news - www.myspace.com/lukevibertacid

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LAYERZ TEXT OR TEPPLER PHOTOGRAPHY DUDY DAYAN

I’ve been going around to shows and concerts for as long as I can remember in order to try and find the TelAviv’in answer to the 21st century music scenes, those who seem to be popping up all over the world but not here - Bands who are using the unlimited options that are available today that performers from the last (and not so far) century could only dream of.

It’s safe to say, that me discovring the Layerz was like a dream come true, god excites, he’s heard my prays and sent me exactly what i needed.

It all happened a little over a year ago, where i unexpectedly ended up at the “Layrez” first show in a small bar in down town Tel-Aviv, Even today I can’t really find the words to discribe that moment, it was as if the entire world had closed down and music was all that left - It was an experience like non-other and I just wanted more.

Meet the Layrez - Jonathan Albak, Aviv Cohen & Gilad Avro - Names well known in the local music industry, since they’ve been playing for all of the big artists in the local and global scene for quite some time.

My mission to try and define their music is not an easy one, it’s a mix of Instrumental,Electronic,NewFolk,Jazz,Paul Owen with a touch of Dub-Step,a tat of Progressive Rock & Core-bit.

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“In every scene, the people in it will say that we’re something else - people playing Jazz will say that we belong in the Electronic scene and the people in the Electronic scene will say that we belong in Jazz. we are considered to be the black sheeps of the local scene, we don’t really like to define our selfs that’s why we ame up with the name “Layrez”, we are creating a mix of everything that drives us,everything we know,that we love and that we hear into our music.” They replied when I asked them to define their music.

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we don’t really like to define our selfs that’s why we called our selfes “Layrez”, we are creating a mix of everything that drives us,that we know,that we love and that we hear into our music.” they replied when i Jonathan Albek (27), the “Layrez’s” guitarist,grew up in Jerusalem and started to play at the age of 9, tells that he first discovered him self in music when he first heard “SoundGardan”. he discovered Jazz back in high-school when he was studying music.

After high school Albek continued to study music and has graduated from the “High Academy” where he focused on composition - he tells that he has found unique “spices” That took him to a all new musical direction.

He also composes and produces music for films, dance groups , and art exhibits.

“He’s the glow that keeps us together”. the Layrez say.

Aviv Cohen (28), the “Layrez” drummer, grew up in Jerusalem as well and says the he was drumming on everything from ever since he can remember. At the age of 15 he started to take private lessons,studied music in high school and studied 2 years in “Rimon” (Israel’s most exclusive music academy).

He then moved to New-York and lived there for 5 years, playing with many renowned musicians, Cohen and Albek have been friends since the age of 16, “He’s like my twin (white) brother.” Says Cohen.

Gilad Avro (30), the “Layrez” bassets, was born in South Africa and moved to Israel with his mother at the age of 12.

“He’s the bad boy of the group” says the “Layrez”, he studied at the “High Academy” in Jerusalem and since then has been one of the busiest Contrabass-Jazz players in Israel.

“I used to play pretends on my mothers tennis racket, until she’d agree to buy my an electric guitar.” Says Avro.

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We like to improvise, we create the music as we go along, nothing is ever planned ahead”.

The “Layrez” started playing together not long ago and it took me by surprise to discover that they came together due to the efforts of Marina Maximilian Blumin ( an important figure in the local alternative music scene) which the “Layrez” even consider to be a member of the band and frequently host her on their shows.

They all met at different musical “get togethers” and some of them know each other from even before that time - Cohen and Blumin were a couple for about 2 years until Cohen moved to New-York and Blumin joined the Israeli version of “x-factor”.

Although Blumin did not win she became a renowned figure in the local scene and asked Albek to join her group, a year later Avro joined them as well and with Cohen returning from New-York they all came together and the “Layrez” were born.

“We instantly felt that there’s a chemistry between us and for some reason we just couldn’t stop playing together, but it was only after our first show that we realized that this is what we’re meant to do”. they say.

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They also speak of a powerful connection between them, that goes with them on their journey, You will never find them going on stage with a playlist, “We like to improvise, we create the music as we go along, nothing is ever planned ahead”. they say.

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It’s only recently that the “Layrez” have stared to gain their reputation and have become the home band of “The Mess hall”, one of Tel-Aviv’s must exclusive art parties and in June they performed at the “Indigo” a local Electronic festival - “We started to play at 10am when the crowed was already falling asleep on the grass and all of a sudden everyone started to get up and dance like crazy”. say the “Layrez”.

“We don’t play to in order to gain fame, but without fame and recognition its hard to keep on doing what you’re doing” - says Avro.

Regardless of the “product” which we fully believe in - marketing, branding and making a “buzz” are essential. We don’t live in a time where a big music producer or a record label showes interest in bands such as ours (at least here in Israel) - “It’s all about being a pop star here in our days, even tough we are all well renowned musicians here it’s still hard making something that is extremely different from the local mainstream but we’re gonna keep on pushing”.

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“We don’t play to gain fame, but without fame and recognition its hard to keep on doing what your’e doing” The “Layrez” are currently working on their first album that according to the band will include instrumental sounds & songs in English which they’ll compose and write by themselves - “For us the challenge in making this album is not to lose focus, we want to use the same energy that we have in our live shows and focus that energy into a series of highly produced tracks.”

With dreams ranging from playing at the Fuji festival, worldwide tour and owning their own label the “Layrez” are without no doubt the best thing in the Israeli music scene and it won’t be long before all of us will be moving to their tunes.

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CHECK OUT THE LAYREZ ON FACEBOOK.COM/PAGES/LayreZ

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MEET THE INDIVIDUALIST(S) TEXT ZOHAR FURMAN PHOTOGRAPHY BERTHEMY KEMLERZ

Finances and the analytic dry business laws can’t be more distant from fashion and the creative work that goes in to a design.

Some say there is no better way to incarcerate your creative drive than dealing with money.

But for Luise Schwarze and Franck Pouch, it was where everything started. The two designers standing behind the label “THE INDIVIDUALIST(S)” first met in 2005, while studying fashion design in Paris. Luise was born in 1983, in Halle (Saale), East-Germany. Franck was born in 1979 in Paris. They grew up in different cultures but shared the same dream .

Both instinctive, observer and influenced by Arts and Culture, they developed a very personal and complementary ethereal aesthetic sense.

Luise moved to Paris where she first Studied economics. Attracted by the artistic and cultural charms of the French Capital, she decided to study at ESMOD Paris (specialising in men’s tailoring). Franck first Graduated at a major French Business School before working as the sales responsible for the Parisian department store FRANCK&FILS (BON MARCHE Group / LVMH). His passion for creation led him to study fashion to complete his education. Together with Luise they have been working with the Japanese label 0044 SHIMAMURA Paris since 2008. Following their creative spirit and their common passion, they finaly launched, in 2008, their first “LUISE&FRANCK” collection. malistic, contemporary and simple, they put the art of cutting the garment and the shape it forms on the body in their top of priority. This simplicity allows the cloths to project a poetic feeling, QWHO

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“THE SIGNTURE PROPERTIONS A PERFERCT BALANCE BETWEEN MINIMALSIM & A SLIGHTLY GRUNGGY LOOK”

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Their collections were immediately recompensed with international fashion awards.

Their inspiration is often more conceptual than pragmatic and comes from the emotions they share. Their universe has been nourished by a realistic but in the same time idealistic vision of the human being. Their clothes are minimalis- tic, contemporary and simple, they put the art of cutting the garment and the shape it forms on the body in their top of priority. This simplicity allows the cloths to project a poetic feeling, elegance and sophistication. They create a new harmony out of contrasts between fitted and loose garments, light and dark hues, sartorial and deconstructed shapes. They are addressed to men who are not intimidated to bear their vulnerability and emotions, contrasting with the traditional image of men.

Their latest collection for autumn/winter 2011/12 is based on the exact same ideas. Titled by the name of Simon & Garfunkel’s iconic song, the sound of silence, the collection, like the song (which was written in 1964, is all about the ability of different people to communicate not verbally, but emotionally) is focusing on the turbulent emotions he feels while growing up. It’s intention is to remind us the evolution of a human being from its birth to death. The construction of the collection and its shapes emphasize the man’s body and its movements. It applies to pants with curved shapes, around the body-turning knitwear or precisely placed cutouts on a jacket sleeve to accent the articulation and make movement more natural.

The melancholic note of the collection comes from the sober color palette by using a strong and deep black intermingling with distorted shades, washed out blue tones and contrasting 020

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TEXT FEATURES EDITOR ZOHAR FURMAN

Using fabrics in the colors of precious stones, such as emerald green, ruby’s red, and Sapphire blue for feminine 40’s Hollywood style designs.

Frida Giannini ‘s fall 2011/12 collection for Gucci was definitely her one of her best ones so fare. Using fabrics in the colors of precious stones, such as emerald green, ruby’s red, and Sapphire blue for feminine 40’s Hollywood style designs, helped her to stay on trend and move on from the boyish-50’s look she have been cultivating since first arriving to Gucci as Alessandra Facchinetti’s replacement.

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Prints of purple and yellow flowers, tigers and chains were Tisci’s reinterpretation of a tropic world imprisoned in the 80’s.

Riccardo Tisci decided this season to abandon the rough and dark gothic black and white looks he was accustom to and went for something more whimsical but still very edgy. Prints of purple and yellow flowers, tigers and chains were Tisci’s reinterpretation of a tropic world imprisoned in the 80’s. Fussy yellow angora sweaters, printed pencil skirts and a play of translucent and opaque fabrics fused some kitsch with sophistication. Chunky tiger head silver necklaces, tiger eyeglasses frames covered with fur and vinyl trucker hats completed the unique look and made Givenchy so desirable for another season.

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As humor being the main ingredient this season as well, questioning our cultural fashion heroes stood in the

Jeremy Scott doesn’t give a damn, and that is the exact reason why it is so easy to fall in love with his collections. As humor being the main ingredient this season as well, questioning our cultural fashion heroes stood in the center of this collection. Intensely referencing Prada’s last spring colorful furry fox tails, “knocking off” Mark By Mark Jacobs’s stripes and doing some jesters to Coca Cola and the looks from the TV series & movie “Clueless” gave a fresh satirical point of view on fashion.

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Using fabrics in the colors of precious stones, such as emerald green, ruby’s red, and Sapphire blue for feminine 40’s Hollywood style designs.

Alexander Wang, one of the young underground designers who used to focus on contemporary street fashion, is doing his first steps in to the mainstream.

Snake skin, leathers, a touch of neon yellow and metallic tassel shoes accompanied sexy black skinny pants, tight skirts, blouses and capes. The sunglasses with the handles covered with pink fur, fur stripe shoes and leather clutches made his fall collection one of the most desirable this season. Reminding the style of Tom Ford ten years ago, looks like a new star is already born.

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creamy brown leather pants and buts, cashmere sweaters or camel coats that walked the runway.

The hands that were clapping in the end of Hermes fall fashion show couldn’t wait to putting themselves on the creamy brown leather pants and buts, cashmere sweaters or camel coats that walked the runway. With Christophe Lemaire leaving L’acost and becoming the new woman’s designer of house, the collection integrated the world of high-end luxury and sports, representing the legacy of the house and the past of the designer’s carrier.

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70’s prints, heavy fabrics and even a fur trimmed trolley, much like a gray beehive hairstyle were another great “fashion joke that works”

Being old couldn’t be far from anything that has to do with “fashionable”, but Jean Paul Gautier thinks there must be another way. Young models wearing what looks like Parisian old-but -chic lady’s clothes walked the runway in full confidence. 70’s prints, heavy fabrics and even a fur trimmed trolley, much like a gray beehive hairstyle were another great “fashion joke that works”, courtesy of the great JPG who turns 60 next year.

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MEAGAN CINGOLI #SEX, LUST&DARK. TEXT FEATURES EDITOR ZOHAR FURMAN I am 29 years old. I live in NYC. I studied Fashion Design and Fine Arts at FIT and Photography at SVA and ICP. I have been shooting fashion photography and portrait photography since 2003.

I became a fashion photographer because I love photography and I love fashion!

Being a photographer is really the most fun thing I do, so I decided to make a career of it.

Fashion is absolutely art. It is a form of creativity, creating with fabrics, textures, colours, prints, and design. For me, my job is an outlet of creativity, an opportunity to Create fantasies with other talented people who have the same visions.

I think I have several styles. I would say the two most prevalent are highly conceptualized colourful themes based on childhood daydreams, and the second would be my more adult visions of life, including sex, lust, dark and edgier realities. And it’s fun when the two intercede and you get this really adult spread in crazy Colors, or a spread that is really cute and sexy. It happens. creamy brown leather pants and buts, cashmere sweaters or camel coats that walked the runway.

[The way I portray my subjects] really depends on the shoot. Sometimes I want the models to be cute and whimsical, sometimes I want them to be plastic and doll like, sometimes sexy, sometimes powerful. It’s all in the storyline.

I try not to pay too much attention to what other photographers are doing. Hopefully this keeps my work more original although sometimes I come up with a concept and then find a very similar idea in someone else’s work, prior to mine. That is a terrible feeling. It’s like, how did that happen!! But I am tuned in to what designers are doing, what is happening in the art and film world, etc, so I’m sure we are all being inspired by similar things. I think my extensive travel has really inspired me, as well as trying to find my inner child. So, since my experiences are mine alone, I suppose this makes my work different from anyone else’s.

I really appreciate the career of Annie Liebovitz. She has created some amazing images and works on the most amazing accounts. I really admire the work of David La Chappelle. I wouldn’t say it really inspires me, but I love that he has such specific ideas and that he creates such detailed sets. I love sets and interesting locations, backdrops are not as much fun for me.

[Favourite designers:] For myself, I love the simplicity and classic qualities of Michael Kors for weekends, for design and more fun days, I adore Yves Saint Laurent. If I had more red carpets to walk down, Ungaro would be my first stop.

[People I would like to work with:]There is a long list. For celebrities, I would love to shoot Nikki Minaj and Lady Gaga because I like conceptualized shoots and I think they make incredible characters.

For models, I would love to shoot Alek Wek and Kate Moss. I think doing a portrait of Anna Wintour or Karl Lagerfeld would be divine. For designers, I would love to be hired by Betsey Johnson. When I see her shows I see how creative the company and whimsical the designers, but I feel the images of their designs are lacking personality. Juicy Couture and LAMB would be two other design companies I would love to shoot for.

There are so many [memorable fashion shoots I did] to choose from.. But a really special shoot I had was a year and a half ago, shooting my now girlfriend, musician Amber Lee of Amber and Little Criminals. We had this incredible location, the home of Dorothy Globus, the curator of the Museum of Art and Design (MADD) in NYC. Her home is a museum of art, knickknacks, collectibles and treasures. I barely knew Amber but really enjoyed her music and her style.

She would play acoustic during each shot, and it was incredible to be so close to someone so talented, with such a powerful voice.

That shoot ended up being the ten images that appear on her CD and I basically pursued her until we started to date after that shoot [laughs].

You can check out meagan’s work @ http://www.ilovemeagan.com/

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L’ETRANGER! TEXT ZOHAR FURMAN

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L’etranger boutique has been foreigner to the Israeli fashion for more than a year now. Holding brands like Rick Owens, Damir Doma or “Label Under Construction”, having an unique avant-garde style to it, the clothes that come out of its doors at 3 Lilienbloom st. Are not something you can easily spot on the average Israeli person walking the sidewalks of Tel Aviv.

Shimi Zarfati, a Fashion Design B.A graduate at Instituto Marangoni, Milan, decided it was time to bring some of the deconstructive, cutting edge, dark fashion of his mentor, Giuliano Fujiwara, for whom he have been working for a year and a half.

“My wish is to obliterate the ‘Logo-mania’. Clothes shouldn’t be a status symbol, they should be a great design”, says Zarfati. After the area in which people wanted to wear “DKNY bosoms and Juicy asses”, came more sober-minded times, in which it is the quality and design that counts, not the label printed on the ticket. “I want to let the clothes speak for themselves. The brands I’m holding invest in textile and research for new materials”. The clothes you’ll find here, both for men and women, were picked carefully by Zarfati, either because of their interesting shapes and because they were his personal taste. “The colour scheme of the close is characterized by the same monochromaticity I’m attracted to. Most of the designers use black, white, grey and neutral colours that speak to me the most. The clothes I order for my boutique are cloth I could wear myself. Picking them from the showrooms is a very personal experience.

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“My wish is to obliterate the ‘Logo-mania’. Clothes shouldn’t be a status symbol, they should be a great design”

Everything here represents a part of me, starting from the music, the interior design and of course the cloth and accessories”, explains Zarfati, and that is exactly what he likes his costumers to feel while visiting his shop.

“I don’t believe in an instant nor an aggressive shopping experience. In order to buy cloths, you have to feel them from within. I want people who come here to feel comfortable to take a break from their busy day life, I want them to feel free to touch the leather and feel the fabrics “. His clients, fashion lovers from all ranges of the social ladders, know exactly what they are looking for, and they are coming especially to the store (which is located quite far away from any shopping centres) because they know they’ll find it there. “ Most of my clients know how to appreciate high quality and want to wear cloth that make them individuals and convey a certain statement. They are defiantly not part of the crowd” Starting this winter, Ann Demeulemeester, For me D’expression and Boris Bidjan Saberi are some of the labels joining the stylish metal hangers of the boutique.

But Zarfati has some more tricks up his sleeve; “I have been working on my own collection for something like two years now, and some of the pieces I designed will be sold in this space next to garments from other brands. My love for designing clothes is as intense and as powerful as my love for importing them”.

Check out L’etranger @ www.letrangerstore.com QWHO

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I WAS A REGULAR GAGA FAN TEXTT OLIVER

The single, Found Love In A Graveyard, tries to inject some edge into proceedings – it’s about falling in love with a ghost – but the pallid, jejune female vocals and timid guitar strum make it sound like a kindergarten Siouxsie & the Banshees. Stephen is like the Pixies’ Gigantic, only neutered and bled of all its original feral force. Beachy Head is also about looking back (“I’m gonna miss you”), this time at a place not a person, but it does at least have some oomph. On the whole, though, we’d say the coals won’t be coming home to Newcastle just yet.

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MIRRORS single Hide and Seek is similarly slick in its arrival, sounding head and shoulders above anything else on the album, this time it’s more Killers Human than it is Tears For Fears. It’s a euphoric uplifting track that doesn’t even consider treading water, every note and verse fits perfectly together. It’s second only to Into the Heart.

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New York dance-punk trio The Rapture haven’t exactly garnered their renown through prolific releases – in their decade-plus tenure churning out songs whose almost-painful, knife-sharp guitar riffs get right in your head and whittle off chunks of your brain, the band is only just releasing its third full-length album, In the Grace of Your Love. Whether it’ll be anathema or boon to you depends largely on what you like the Rapture for – the dance, or the punk?

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After releasing an underwhelming second album in 2008 and touring for years on the strength of its predecessor, many-headed Brazilian dancerock specialists CSS retreated to São Paulo to recharge and consider some new directions.

Reggae, Afrobeat and piano-driven balladry have been admitted to the party on album number three, but the band struggle to retain the freshness and lo-fi energy of their debut. La Liberación is better in its quieter moments, notably “Partners in Crime”, whereas the teenage revolt enshrined on closing track “Fuck Everything” is starting to feel a little forced.

MENSFALL TEXT FASHION DIRECTOR ORI LEV

High bouts, short jackets and pants where mixed togther with an amazing work of prints clealry showing the street influance in the collection that manages to retin a high fashion feeling.

Givenchy’s collection was my biggest surprise and an absolute most for the coming fall. After a couple of season at Givency it seems that designer Ricardo Tisci as finally got it right making a collection that is much more east London them Paris. High bouts, short jackets and pants where mixed together with an amazing work of prints clearly showing the street influence in the collection that manages to retain a high fashion feeling. This made Givenchy’s fall collection one of the best ones for the coming fall and tisici QWHO’s new fav designer.

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This seasons South American and in particuler Argentinen influences were seen very clearly across the collectionBig Hats, Ponchos, layrs and skinny pants defined the main spirit of the collection

Dior Homme as been at the top of my list for as long as I can remember, in fact it was back in the early Sillimane that I discovered my passion for menswear. This seasons South American and in particular Argentinian influences were seen very clearly across the collection Big Hats, Ponchos, layers and skinny pants defined the main spirit of the collection and keeping with the traditional Dior Homme colors of black, white and beige this season designer Van Assche also included red.

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dashing colors,clean cuts and a mixture of old school style mixed with just a tat of streetwear makes this collection an absolute most.

Prada’s aw collection cannot be pined down to only one scenario, its a mix that stretches from a 1950’s business man all the way to the bridge of the enterprise on the original Star Trek show.

The final frontier is still extremely close to home, keeping with classic Italian cut that’s visible all across the collection, dashing colors,clean cuts and a mixture of old school style mixed with just a tat of streetwear makes this collection an absolute most.

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This seasons South American and in particuler Argentinen influences were seen very clearly across the collectionBig Hats, Ponchos, layrs and skinny pants defined the main spirit of the collection

Keeping up with their long standing out of the box thinking Comme Des Garçons Presented a collection that is a near perfect bland between east and west.

Baggy pants mixed with oriental like prints and funky T-shirts are the Japanese fashion house idea of what men should be wearing this coming season.

Comme des Garçons designer Rei Kawakubo described the collection as “what you will wear if the world would be coming to an end.”

“Decadence” is certainly that - bringing Punk culture and streetwear elements of the west into a direct conflict with the east.

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plain, felted square-cut suits—three buttons, high closing. That were paired with similarly shaded tops and, even when colored broom yellow or cyclamen, they had a distinctly

When asked about this seasons collection Raf Simons (Jil Sander Designer) said that he was looking back to the early days of Jil Sander, To the puirty, faberics and even to the amish influnces but he wanted to give it is own interpetion.

That interpetion resulted in a collection of plain, felted square-cut suits—three buttons, high closing. That were paired with similarly shaded tops and, even when colored broom yellow or cyclamen, they had a distinctly sober air. using the quilting of the Amish as the signature detail for jackets, pants, and tops.

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Acne’s young spirit translated into a collection of overcoats mixed with suit pants in pink,teal & royal blue which on the runway gave a sense of high sexual energy & a feeling of youth.

For quite some time , Acne have been branding themselves has a “Boys just wanna have fun” kind of label, Something that according to the Acne’s creative director Jonny Johansson was nurtured throughout the creation process of the collection.

Acne’s young spirit translated into a collection of overcoats mixed with suit pants in pink,teal & royal blue which on the runway gave a sense of high sexual energy & a feeling of youth.

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TEXT FEATURS EDITOR ZOHAR FURMAN

Scarves and neckwear are becoming more and more popular nowadays and have based their position as the accessory du jour for fall 2011. Appearing in more than a handful of fashion collections, both in their conventional form but also as tops, skirts and dress, you couldn’t manage a functional wardrobe without them. Maybe it’s the resection that throws the fashion consumer towards this more affordable but still stylish fashion item, and maybe it’s because of the versatile way you can wear them. It also may be part of the more global trend that drives fashion houses to invest in fabrics. Either way, these days, people are starting to feel the desire for a scarf. And it better be a good one.

“To me a scarf is the ultimate canvas and is something you can cherish. Says Jane Carr, a Central Saint Martins graduate who started her own label dedicated to luxury handmade finished accessories and gloves. “It’s a very simple accessory that can change your mood and infuse a look with attitude. Each piece in the collection has its own time of day and character, whether it’s a daytime casual wrap or an evening formal pocket square”. After being snapped

by Donatella Versace and working as head of printed women’s wear textiles for four years, you can definitely say Carr has a clue about what people are looking for when they are shopping for a good scarf.

The Jane Carr trademark is a sense of living life in the moment. It’s about defining one’s personal style which can change through the day, simply by changing an accessory or wearing it in a different way, depending on one’s spirit. Staying true to form in creating distinctive prints, Jane Carr’s AW11-12 Collection ,named “REBEL REBEL”, looks to the legacy of original bad boy James Dean for inspiration. From the brake pads in his 1954 Porsche tearing down Route 66 to the entangled bike chains of his motorbike. Even digital prints of the icon himself are depicted against a variety of lightweight handmade fabric bases including silk blends and pure cashmere.

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RED FALL PHOTOGRAPHY DUDY DAYAN FASHION DIRECTOR ORI LEV MODEL STAV @ ELINOR SHAHAR

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WOOL BLAZER - CALVIN KLEIN SHIRT - PRADA SKIRT - STYLIST OWN SHOES - LACOSTE

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WOOL BLAZER - CALVIN KLEIN SHIRT - PRADA SKIRT - STYLIST OWN SHOES - LACOSTE

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JACKET CHANEL SHIRT PRADA

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BLAZER GUCCI

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TRENCH DIOR HOMME JUMPER PRINGLE OF SCOTALND PANTS PRADA

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TRENCH DIOR HOMME JUMPER PRINGLE OF SCOTALND PANTS PRADA

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JUMPER TOPMEN PANTS JIL SANDER

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JUMPER TOPMEN

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JUMPER TOPMEN PANTS JIL SANDER

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C/U/T

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PHOTOGRAPHY / MADISON FASHION / JIHANE RUTS MAKEUP/ DIRK PLOEG HAIR / MARIJE GOEDKOOP MODEL / ART @ TONY JONES MODEL MANAGMENT SET ASSISTANT / BART VAN REE SPECIAL THANKS / MARGREETH OLSTHOORN

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SHIRT CHRONICELS OF NEXER PANTS RICK OWENS

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SHIRT KRIS VAN ASSCHE PANTS MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

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JACKET BRUUNS BAZAAR

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SHIRT CHRONICELS OF NEVER PANTS BLACKNOISE/WHITERAIN SHOES SAMSOE&SAMSOE

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SKIRT MAY LEVI BOOTS RICK OWENS

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BLAZER RICK OWENS [L’ETRANGER] SHORTS JIL SANDER

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SHIRT ALEXANDER MACQUEEN PANTS DIOR HOMME BOOTS RICK OWNES [L’ETRANGER]

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[EXPRESSION] PHOTOGRAPHY [LARS WABER] FASHION [TATIANA CALASANS] HAIR&MAKE-UP [AVRIL PAUL] MODEL [DANIEL BAMDAD @ SPIN MODEL MANAGEMENT]

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FUR JACKET [STYLIST OWN] CLOTH [PRADA] EARRING [ ANNA SCHMUHL]

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NECKLACES [ANNA SCHMUHL]

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PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL KAMINSKY FASHION DIRECTOR ORI LEV MODEL ANDRAY @ ELINOR SHAHAR PERSONAL MANAGMENT

86’ JACKET STYLIST OWN SHIRT DIOR HOMME JEANS LEVIS

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PHOTOGRAPHY / FASHION ELAD BARON MODEL KOSTYA @ YULI MODELS FASHION ALL LIORA TARAGEN

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INDEX

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Dior Homme - diorhomme.com Comme des Garçons - Dover Street Market, 17-18 Dover Street, London doverstreetmarket.com L’etranger - 3 Lilienblum Street, Tel-Aviv letrangerstore.com American Apparel - americanapperal.com Levis - eu.levi.com Prada - 16 Old Bond Street, London Prada.com Diesel - Diesel.com Kris Van Assche - 18 rue du faubourg-du-temple, Paris krisvanassche.com Maison Martin Margiela - maisonmartinmargiela.com Chronicels of Never - chronicelsofnever.com Rick Owens - rickowens.eu Topmen - topmen.com Gucci - gucci.com Jill Sander - jillsander.com Chanel - chanel.com Celvin Klein - 65 New Bond Street, London celvinklein.com Alexander Mcqueen- 4-5 Old Bond Street, London alexandermcqueen.com L’acoste - 233 Regent Street, London. lacoste.com

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LAST Amanda De Simone is a photographer and visual artist based in Sydney and New York. Her integrated practice explores wildness, broken and break through moments, and rawness in a constructed world. Drawing from the hypnotic power of movement, she believes in producing atmospheres and images that perform and linger.

Fascinated by modern masculinity and the symbiosis of art and fashion, her exhibited work intelligently exposes primal responses and tribal conditioning.

Amanda’s unlimited visual vernacular is underpinned by a commitment to ideas and desire to communicate in pictures. Her imaginative commercial prowess has seen her collaborate with, and create work for Calvin Klein, BMW, Style.com, GQ, Redbull, Penguin, IRO, Mooks, Aesop, Seven New York, CCP, NYFW, PFW, RAFW, Metal Magazine, IT POST, Intersection, MINI International, (Inside) Magazine, Australian Creative, The DDD and Pagesonline, Grey Avairy. www.amandadesimone.com

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AGAZINE.COM

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FASHION TO THE PEOPLE