AUTOMOTIVE MODELLING MAGAZINE • FEBRUARY 2012 • ISSUE #01
Real Tyres? find out inside...
the first ible d e r c in issue! f o L L U F cking
sho
details!
but best of all, it’s
FREE
Monthly automotive modelling heaven. Read it online at
www.racecraftmag.co.uk
WELCOME what’s in
this issue?
Well here it is. The first issue of Racecraft Magazine! A big fat welcome to all of you who have come to take a look through these pages of automotive modelling wonder! Steve and myself have been very excited about this magazine ever since the idea popped into our heads one cold morning in January 2012. From that moment on, it has all been very much go, as we have sent emails back and forth, trying to raise interest in a magazine that didn’t even exist yet. That’s quite a hard task when you have nothing to show and people keep asking you to explain what you going on about. But here we are. The first issue and all the effort has hopefully been worth while as we take you on our first outing into the world of automotive modelling finesse and talent!
Some seriou
s details.
But after all that, we are pretty pleased how it as turned out. Now we actually have something to show people, we want the idea to go through the roof! There are some magazines out there that simply trundle along, doing what’s right to satisfy their advertising customers and the readers want for “how to paint” articles and what the latest kit is, but here at Racecraft, we are going to do things a bit differently. This is only the first issue, but we want the mag to reach out to the world’s automotive modellers and become the best thing since easy sand filler and photoetch! Each issue will be packed full of interesting features, useful articles and glorious images of the best builds we come across. This magazine is all about the modellers out there, their skills, knowledge and the talents that undoubtedly exist world wide. So with that thought safely tucked away in your brain box, take a good look through Racecraft issue number one, soak it up and then let us know what you think.
s off. AFMOTY 2011 Kick
All feedback is good for the mag, so please do drop us a line. For now, thanks for your support and for reading Racecraft. We hope you like it too!
Rich and Steve.
Get Involved!
If you like what you see in this first issue of Racecraft Mag, and would like to be involved, then you can be!
We are looking for support for the mag, both from a content point of view and in the financial sense, so if you would like to submit your work, write and article or make a suggestion for the mag, or even associate and advertise with us, then please do get in touch.
Little or Large?
Just fill in the contact form on our website and we’ll get right back to you! A huge thank you to all those who have helped contribute to the first issue of Racecraft: Mihail Samarskiy, Igor Sushko, Moppie and the automotiveforums staff and community, Antonio Franco, Dr Eric and the F1M community, The SPC community and staff, Simon Taylor, Chris Mason and the West Berks Model Club, and all the entrants of the AFMOTY awards 2011. Racecraft Magazine is produced by Rich Webb with help from Steve Wilson. For all enquiries, please contact us through our website www.racecraftmag.co.uk. Articles and interviews are the work of the named author. All images are the property of their labelled owners and have been used with written permission. Racecraft Magazine and concept © Rich Webb 2011 and my not be reproduced without permission.
The Poor Man
’s Technique?
the JUDGES DECISION is final. Words by Rich Webb. Images used with permission.
I often scour the internet looking for inspiring builds, tips techniques, different ways of putting a kit together and, of course, pictures of other peoples complete works to see how good they are. I think every modeller out there has at least a little bit of ambition to build the best looking kit, one that all their peers will appreciate and praise, I certainly do, so when I stumbled upon the 2011 Automotiveforums.com Model of the Year Awards, I was a very happy man. Competitions like this don’t seem to pop up all that often. Perhaps it’s the effort it takes to organise them, perhaps people can’t be doing with the hassles of being a judge or could it be because modelling isn’t seen as competitive in it’s nature? It may well be a combination of those three, but here’s why I think these competitions are a great thing: The internet is jam packed full of images of models. Work in progress, completed work, half complete work, the list is endless and over time, those images and builds get forgotten about. Sometimes the really, really good ones are remembered for reference or just because they caused a fuss when they were being built, but after that fuss dies down, they too get assigned to the archives of posts and image galleries on the net. So putting on a competition like this not only gives you a second bite of appreciation for those fantastic builds, it is another chance for modellers from all over the world to show off their pride and joy.
Building a model for yourself is great, but I hope you will agree that sharing in appreciation of your hours of toil, fiddly parts and spilt paint, with your community buddy from the other side of the planet, makes it that extra bit special. And that is what Automotiveforums.com have done to a tee. I was taken aback when I spotted the entry thread; builds from all over the globe going toe-to-toe for the most votes. If you haven’t already taken a look at the competition thread, I suggest you do. Some of them are well and truly awesome, and really highlight some fantastic talent out there. But enough chat. The proof is in the pudding. So with out any more dressing, I would like to present to you, a large selection of the entries to this years AFMOTY 2011. My favourite? Well in ways they are all pretty darn good, so congratulations to all of the talent involved for some inspiring skills. Don’t forget to check out all of the entries to this years AFMOTY awards and even more fantastic automotive modelling at Automotiveforums.com.
Name Tomislav Knezic aka To-Mek Country Croatia Model Yamaha YZR M1 ‘04 Build time About 130 hours in 4 months. The best bit? Body decaling, painting, final and workable chain assembly. The difficult bit? Fuel tank decal was nightmare because tank has a complicated shape and decal was too big to fit, so I had to cut it in many places and then repair with some silver paint!
Images Š Tomislav Knezic. Used with permission
Name Eugene Dobryanskiy aka Eugene78 Country Russia Model 1/24 Revell BMW 507 Build time About 6 months,1 or 2 evenings a week. The best bit? Detailing the engine. The kit was mostly correct in the engine compartment, but I had to add a lot of small parts to make it look realistic - and adding detail is always more fun that correcting the manufacturer’s errors. The difficult bit? Preparing the parts for painting - i.e. cleaning flash, mould lines, etc. My kit suffered from poor moulding quality, so this process took a lot of time.
Images Š Eugene Dobryanskiy. Used with permission
Images Š Keit Tamm. Used with permission
Name Keit Tamm aka Tamm85 Country Estonia Model Mitsubishi Pajero Super Exceed 91� 1/24 Tamiya Build time It took me 3 months The best bit? Making the under carriage The difficult bit? The two tone paint job because it was my first time to do it!
Name Christian Franke aka Capri-Schorsch Country Germany Model Tamiya Ferrari 312T Build time Nearly 4 months The best bit? The engine The difficult bit? Fitting the bodywork
Images Š Christian Franke. Used with permission
Name Cris Jr Country Brazil Model Tamiya 370Z with Meko Amuse Transkit Build time In total, something about a year, since I had a lot of problems and almost gave up on this one The best bit? The challenge to work with a transkit that doesn’t fit very well, I was afraid that at the end the car would not be nice The difficult bit? I had a lot of problems to fit Meko transkit on the car and also to fit the huge GTR brake disks, i’m very happy with the results See more at www.scalestreetracer.com
Images © Cris Jr. Used with permission
Name Marek aka M-Boy Country Poland Model Honda Super Cub - Fujimi 1/12 My own custom version modeled on photographs which I found online. Build time 10.05.2011 - 23.09.2011 exactly. The best bit? My favorite part of the build is the final assembly when everything fits together and you can see the end of work. The difficult bit? On this model, the most difficult thing was to make the handlebars, bending wire into the correct shape.Â
Images Š Marek. Used with permission
Name Ruben Morillo aka Tanke999 Country Basque Country/Euskal Herria Model Tamiya Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec II R34 Build time 11 months The best bit? Painting, wheels and photo-etched parts The difficult bit? I don’t know, maybe the headlights.
Images Š Ruben Morillo. Used with permission
Name Vladimir Litvinenko aka Mika2121 Country Ukraine Model Heller 1 / 24 Jaguar E-type Le mans 1962 Build time Nine months The best bit? Painting and assembly of motor The difficult bit? Changing the body of model and attaching it to the chassis.
Images Š Vladimir Litvinenko. Used with permission
Name Marco Saupe aka Marcosaupe Country Germany Model MFH 1/20 Eagle Weslake, Winner 1967 Spa Build time 5 weeks The best bit? The engine The difficult bit? Many tiny etched parts...
Images Š Marco Saupe. Used with permission
Name Vitezslav Mach aka Wishieftrottle Country Czech Republic Model Toyota Aristo - Max Orido (Aoshima 1/24) Build time It took me 7 and a half months, with lot of pauses because of school and work. The best bit? Definitely making the body. Applying colors, decals and clearcoats and final polishing. The difficult bit? For me, the most difficult part of the build is painting the rubber gasket around the windows. I hate it! Haha.
Images Š Vitezslav Mach. Used with permission
Name Helico Country USA Model Mercedes Benz 300 SLR, 1/43 by Starter Build time 6 months on and off The best bit? Scratch building the cockpit The difficult bit? The wooden steering wheel
Images Š Helico. Used with permission
Name Abel Janoch aka Jabel Country Hungary Model Lamborghini Countach 5000S - 1/24 Fujimi Build time About two and a half months The best bit? I really like when a kit gives me challenge like this one - but not too much! The difficult bit? I can’t remember the most difficult part, because it had a lot. It was an old Fujimi kit with a 082... series No, what meant it contained a lot of parts, but the quality was not the best. I had little problems with the parts of the body kit, but the most funniest I think, was that the kit is included engine parts for two versions! I could build the engine of the LP400 or the 5000QV version, so I tried to make my own version from reference pics.
Images Š Abel Janoch. Used with permission
Name George Tziafas aka Gtziaf Country Greece Model Renault Alpine A110 - Tamiya 1/24, Converted to represent the 1970 Acropolis Rally Winner, which driven by Jean Luc Therier and Marcel Callewaert Build time About 4 months The best bit? The opening door process and the dashboard modification. The difficult bit? The custom decals (It was my first ever attempt!) and the front bumper modification - I put the indicators in the bumpers!
Images Š George Tziafas. Used with permission
Name Kris Hoekstra aka Iceracer1 Country The Netherlands Model BMW R75/5 Build time Almost 2 months The best bit? The new spoked wheels and the engine. The difficult bit? Well, the whole engine didn’t fit right so I had to use a lot of putty and sanding to all parts so they would fit. Also the spokes of the wheels are very thick so I cut them all out and made new spokes using 0.7mm steelwire. I’ve Never done that before so it was a hard job but the result is much better.
Images © Kris Hoekstra. Used with permission
TOTALTEC Welcome to Racecrafts first TT - Total Techniques! Here at Racecraft, we are all too aware that all you modellers out there love to find out about new techniques and ways to create that extra bit of realism in your builds. This regular feature to Racecraft Mag, will be searching out those extra special modelling methods people use, to share them with you, and hopefully inspire and help you achieve even better results in your modelling. In this first TT, we are going to take a look at how Antonio Franco (aka Husker) from the www.f1m.com community, uses a rotary tool, and a few files to ‘turn’ a set of bespoke shock absorbers out of electrical solder! Fantastic creativity and amazing technique that we felt had to be shown off to you all. The title of this months TT may well be “Poor Man’s Lathe”, but there certainly isn’t anything poor about Antonio’s creativity and skill as he uses this bespoke technique to create parts for some ultra realistic effects, without the “proper” tools. Take it away Antonio...
Remember Folks - USING power tools
can be dangerous!
and work sensibly. Always wear your safety glasses, face mask
#3
A low speed selection works best for me. Turn the tool on and start filing away. Go gently! You’ll notice how fast a step begins to form so you’ll need to be careful not cut through the solder as you file.
#4 #1
Items you will need: Safety Glasses, a rotary tool, files in various sizes, sanding paper and/or sticks, a pocket utility knife, a hobby knife, a pin vice, solder in various gauges, pins, a wire brush and a lot of patience.
#2
The first step is to place a piece of solder in the end of the rotary tool, as if it was a drill bit. Use a piece of solder at least 3 times longer and a bit thicker than the part you are making. This gives you enough material to file away while having a firm grip on the rotary tool.
You need to be patient with this process for two reasons:
a - The more time you spend filing, the hotter the solder will become and will eventually melt and bend, leaving you with a useless piece. Let it cool every 30 seconds or so. b - Even if you constantly let it cool, the file will eventually get clogged with solder. This is a good thing because while you are using the wire brush to clean the file, the solder will be cooling down, ready for the next round! tip - I prefer to use a triangular file instead of a flat one, you then have 3 sides to clog before cleaning but of course you can use whatever type of file you want.
Images © Antonio Franco. Used with permission.
CHNIQUES “The Poor Man’s Lathe” Article an images by Antonio Franco. Reproduced with permi
ssion.
#5
That is it as far as the rotary tool is concerned. Remove your “turned” piece and press one end of the shock with a pair of flat-nose pliers to create the correct shape.
#6
With your pin vise, drill a 0.5-0.6mm hole in the centre then file or sand round the edges to smooth the shape.
#7
Depending on the shape of the shock, you can carefully cut the piece with a hobby knife and then smooth to finish. Here I have tapered the top edge of the cylinder to make it more like a cone.
Things to remember! • Using power tools can be dangerous - Always wear your safety glasses and face mask! • Practise makes perfect, be patient and take your time. • The solder gets hot when filing, so stop often so you don’t spoil your work. • In time you can make your pieces more finely detailed and begin using other metals with the same technique to achieve different results. Experimenting, I found out it was possible to use this technique to make these very small pieces too! Steel pins transformed into switches for instance. Here are some further examples of what can be achieved. Steering Rack and Linkage.
#8
Drill another hole, about 0.6mm at the end and insert a pin that you have trimmed to size to make the piston rod of the shock. You can make the spring out of thin solder, wire, electric wire or even take out the spring of an old pen.
Gear Shift Lever and Linkage.
#9
The other end of the shock is made in a similar fashion with the rotary tool and then sanding to finish. In this case, I have added a brass rod at the top, which I have filed to shape. Once you have tested that the sizes fit into your build, glue it together with super glue and you are finished!
Making Switches from Pins.
Needless to say, this is just one way of approaching the challenge of making turned parts without a lathe and proper tooling.
Finished!
I think the important thing is to find out which technique is the right one for you. I hope you’ve found the article useful. Antonio.
Images © Antonio Franco. Used with permission.
Automodellissimo. The country’s only Automotive Model Show. This will be the second show at the new venue and we are hoping to build on the success of the last years event with more exhibitors inside and a larger car display outside! Hanslope Village Hall, Newport Road Hanslope, Milton Keynes MK19 7NZ The show has been moved forwards as requested, to keep away from the holiday season.
For further details, please contact Paul Fitzmaurice Email : paul@hamex.co.uk Phone : 01234 711980
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’ n L ‘ e l t lit Occasionally, when you are looking at someone else’s model, your eye gets caught and you think…that’s pretty special. It might be the colour, the detail, or something about the way it has been presented that makes you take that second look. That’s what happened when I saw this image of a Fiat 500 (right) from Mihail Samarskiy’s entry into the AFMOTY awards that you read about earlier in the mag, and if I am honest, I’m glad I stopped and took the time to admire. Now I’m not sure if it was the glossy orange of this build that caught my eye, the quirky photos or the fact that the car looked like it had just been to the valet. Perhaps it was a combination of all three, but when Mihail presented us with the modern version of the 500, side by side with it’s historical sibling, I couldn’t resist running a full feature. Fortunately for us, Mihail is not only pretty handy with the polish and the camera, he’s got some skills with the craft tools too, so it would be rude not to ask a few questions about these two stunning builds, his subject choices and to find out some of his modelling opinions.
E G R A L
ission sed with perm U . iy sk ar m Sa l ages Š Mihai I added chrome parts, lower suspension for a better look and ich Webb. Im R y b n e tt ri W whitewall tires. I have to say that the modern version was easier to finish, as I had the practice from the older 500 first, I just had to repeat all the techniques in a contemporary style. So Mihail, why choose the Fiats as a subject? Is there a story or A sort of a new retro! a theme there? Looking closer at both these builds, we noticed that the Why Fiats? Well I love Italian cars. Alfas, Lancias, Lamborghinis... attention to detail has been excellent, not just in the kits, but even more so in Mihail’s interpretation of the finer points A Fiat 500 is one of the symbols of Italy, like pizza or Colosseum. of his builds; hinges, chrome fittings, and not forgetting a Therefore I had to have it in my collection, and since there is an seriously intricate job on the upholstery, even fluffy paper old Fiat 500 and modern Fiat 500, it was logical to do both cars. for floor mats. So we asked him about why he adds so much Also I got the idea to build them in the same style to show the careful precision to his builds? succession of generations.
I thought, what colour to paint them? From the beginning I was thinking about the old 500, because both cars had to be in a retro style. White, blue, yellow, red or black are all too typical colours for it. I wanted to choose an original, unusual colour. So I settled on orange. The Fiat 500 is rare in this colour. For the interior, I also did not want to do the usual plaid upholstery, so again chose something different - chequerboard! Both the kits were complete with plenty of smaller parts to but
In my opinion, a good model is a model that is most similar to the original car. And nothing makes this model as realistic as the small details. All these little things do not require too much work, but they animate the model, this also includes features such as the windows, head lights and tail lights. All these areas are important. Second to the details, it has to be the painting and polishing. I feel it is very important that the paint and clear layers are not out of scale and they are commensurate with the size of the model.
il ttle
So which was the most challenging? And which would you say was the most enjoyable? The older Fiat 500 or the bigger, modern version? Each of them had their own difficulties. The old Fiat was certainly more detailed, as it has a motor so was therefore more work. The new Fiat 500 also suffered an accident - the first painting session turned out a failure. I had to strip and repaint the whole body all over again. I also, had many difficulties with lowering the suspension on both cars, as the wheels would not take the position that I wanted. That gets a little frustrating. But above all I enjoyed the older version. Much more enjoyable, and I have always liked it more than the modern car. It has more soul in it‘s design, it has contours and it is much more stylish. Finishing your build off is always an important step in the completion of a kit, so we also quizzed Mihail on how he has managed to achieve such immaculate results. As you can see from the shots, his cars well and truly gleam! You have also managed to achieve a very clean finish to both the cars. The chrome specifically is fantastic and so accurate. What did you use? Can you give any advice? To finish, I used “Mr. Color” paint (orange, it was # 59) and two component (2k) car clearcoat. I also use ‘real’ 3M car polish. When painting and varnishing I also think it’s important not to make the layers too thick, to keep the impressions and detail of the model alive. When polishing, you should be careful not to rub through the clearcoat as well. For the chrome details I used what was supplied in the kit: Bumpers, lights, lighting number with BMF (bare metal foil). Using BMF is not difficult, but it is important not to rush and gently manipulate the foil. If something goes wrong you can always make it again! Some good advice and thoughts from Mihail to how he achieved such fantastic models. Finally we asked about those photos. Why go to all that trouble to shoot a model?
Images © Mihail Samarskiy. Used with permission
For me, the final image of the model is very important. Your photo session is the hour of glory for the model after a few months at your workplace and years on your shelf. I think that when you look at the photo, you should be tricked into thinking that you’re looking at a real car. It is therefore important to choose the best locations to photograph and the correct angle for the shots. I love to photograph my models on natural backgrounds, not just a piece of boring black or white paper. This makes the whole process more exciting and challenging: finding a place where the model will stand, a background to look good and nothing next to the model to give away it’s small size. Sometimes you look ridiculous shooting a model, because you have to kneel or even lie down on the ground to get the right image, but then real art is never simple!
Oops. “The new o Fiat 500 als suffered an accident...”
Saved!
E G R ’ ‘n LA
Images © Mihail Samarskiy. Used with permission
How important is it to make those final images look their best?
E G R ’ A n L ‘ il ttle Images © Mihail Samarskiy, . Used with permission
E G R ’ A n L ‘ e l t t li
Images © Mihail Samarskiy, . Used with permission
Written by Rich Webb. Images by Simon Taylor.
When I first joined the F1M modelling forum, I felt like a total novice. I had just finished my first kit in about 20 years, and going onto the community really did open my eyes to a world of inspiration. There I was feeling pretty pleased with myself, photos of my build ready to be posted and I was instantly gobsmacked by some of the work I witnessed. I decided not to post my photos. But since then, I have come to realize that the work I see on the modelling communities around the net, shouldn’t serve as a deterrent, making budding modellers feel inadequate or even untalented. I’m sure you will agree that modelling is a long journey, and each of us had to start somewhere. So that is why this magazine is going to be produced the way it is. It’s an inspiration to see some of the art that is displayed on these forums, and I use the term art because that is what it is.
Images © Simon Taylor. Used with permission
If a sculptor produced an intricate work, like making a cow out of springs, it would be known as art, so in my eyes, builds like the one you are about to drool over should also be called art, and should serve to inspire and encourage all modellers, no matter what your subject preference or ability. It’s one of the main reasons why we’ve created this mag. So with no further ado, I’d like to introduce you to one of the most phenomenal examples of model making I personally have ever seen. And I hope that somebody challenges me on that statement for the next issue! Welcome to Simon Taylor’s incredible MP4/6.
Images © Simon Taylor. Used with permission
So what inspired you towards this subject and how long did the build take to complete? I had always wanted to build one of the large 1/12 Tamiya kits since being a kid but never got round to it. I built a couple of the Tamiya bikes and the odd car about 16 years ago but that was about it and always straight out of the box. As I mentioned in my WIP on F1M, I got into building figure kits from the small “Garage Kit” makers but I never really forgot about the big 1/12th Tamiya. I happened to stumble across F1M and was really inspired by some of the fantastic things being done on there. I was initially going to do one of the older cars like one of the Tyrrells, any of the Lotus cars or the Ferrari 312T but it wasn’t long before I came across the names of Bil Attridge and Andy Mathews. I am quick to acknowledge that without those two - especially Bil Attridge and his MP4/6 build and the community over at www.f1m.com, I am convinced the model wouldn’t be anything like it is so I have to give thanks to all those for sharing there skills and knowledge. From start to finish the build took about two and a half years but I didn’t do anything on it over the winter months as I work in my garage so it’s too cold and damp. In terms of hours it took I have no idea but well into the high hundreds I would think.
Was the level of detail intentional, or was it something you got started on and then felt obliged to continue with? After all, the attention that has been paid is unreal! In a word yes. Before I even decided on the kit I knew I wanted to add as much detail as I could. Because I had never done anything to this level before I spent a lot of time researching what upgrade parts and after market parts were available before picking on a kit. I chose the MP4/6 because of the Perfect Parts Kits by F1 Specialties which I knew would give me a good start. Before I cut a part off the sprues I made a list of all the areas I thought I could add detail too, improve or build from scratch. That was over a period of about 2 or 3 months as that’s how long it took to find the main Perfect Parts Kit. Once I had that, I could see what areas that kit addressed and what areas were left. The brake detail kit came along about 8 months into the build. I think the most important thing was to make the level of detail look right and in scale.
How much of the detailing was bespoke, ie not from out of a packet? There are obviously a lot of parts on there that as you say are “out of a packet” - The Perfect Parts kits, braided line fittings, nuts and bolts etc but almost all of the kit parts were modified in one way or another. The steering rack and the tank on the sidepod, stone guards in the sidepods, throttle linkage etc and many fittings and brackets are all scratch made. You can add lots of detail without buying parts specifically for the kit in question. I had a selection of aluminium and brass rods and tubes and a selection of styrene strips that I found really useful for adding the detail and scratch building. Thinning parts to give them a more scale appearance also goes along way to improve the results and that costs nothing to do. I spent alot of time getting the wiring to “look right”. Getting it to have a natural fall and bend is quite time consuming. The Plumbing on the radiators is made from soft aluminium wire I bought from a well known auction site and cost £4 for the two sizes. It was quite tedious bending and polishing it but as many say the best way to depict real metal is - to use real metal. The stone guards are made from the mesh from a frying pan spit guard which cost less than £1 - unlike model specific mesh that costs considerably more.
“In terms of hours it took, I have no idea, but well into the high hundreds I would think.” Which part of the build was the most interesting, and did you ever loose some hair because of it? Quite a few interesting bits - cutting up kit parts, drilling out the metal wishbones etc but there were 2 main areas that were the most challenging: firstly modifying the front bulkhead so that the nose cone was removable and the modifications I did to the rear suspension mounts. Cutting off the nose and building a new front bulkhead wasn’t too difficult but coming up with the best solution to attach the front lower wishbones took a bit of time. In the case of the rear suspension I had already assembled the suspension mounts and gearbox when I decided to modify the cross section of the upper mounts. Because I couldn’t get the parts apart again I did this while they were already attached to the well under way engine so it was quite a delicate operation. I think the most worried I was though was when I put the engine onto the monocoque. It didn’t just easily slide on but had to be pushed/pulled/eased on with 2 screws at the bottom and 2 nuts on the valve covers - putting too much force on them unevenly could have caused a twisting action which could have easily broke the valve covers off the engine which at that stage with all the detail parts on would have been a disaster.
Images © Simon Taylor. Used with permission.
Can you give a top tip to any would-be modeller out there who would like to aim for this standard ? Plan and take your time. Decide what you want to achieve and what your goal is from the beginning and plan ahead - even then things still didn’t go exactly to plan in the case of the rear
suspension. Test fit and study the instructions well. I didn’t always build in the order the instructions gave because of the additional details I wanted to add. But above all be patient. I am by nature quite impatient so that was a challenging aspect of the build for me. If you do begin to struggle, stop, put it to one side for a while and come back to it when you have a clear head.
I would like to take the opportunity to thank everyone who responded to my WIP over at www.f1m.com for their welcome and also for the encouragement during the build. Credit must also go to Bil Attridge for his inspirational build from which I took a number of pointers. I would also like to give credit to RB Motion and the incredible detail parts he makes of which I used many. Finally I hope my build is a fitting tribute to the fantastic F1 Specialties Perfect Parts kits. Even though I never knew Norm or indeed got my kits from him I was very sad when I heard the news he had passed away towards the end of last year.
A fantastic subject and an incredible build we are sure you’ll agree. A huge thank you to Simon for his efforts. Simon also asked us to mention that he compiled a record of the build, presented in a PDF document, available from him via the www.f1m.com community. Search for user SI90 and drop him a personal message if you are interested. All photography © Simon Taylor and used with kind permission. Do you know of or have a build you think is worth of a Racecraft shakedown? If you do, why not tell us about? Visit our website - www.racecraftmag.co.uk - and get in touch! Images © Simon Taylor. Used with permission.
Images Š Simon Taylor. Used with permission
Images Š Simon Taylor. Used with permission
Each Racecraft issue, we want to highlight some of those modelling groups that exist around the world, and give them an opportunity to show themselves off, tell them a bit more about themselves and why they do what they do.
AMC Rambler Marlin by
Brian
There are plenty of them out there, and they sure possess some mighty fine skills with the tools. Our job is to track them down and make some fuss. The first group out of the blocks is the West Berkshire Model Club from the UK, who we accosted while browsing the SPC community - forum.spc.org.uk The members of WBMC have shown off quite a few fine builds over the years, which have seen them exhibit at many shows and events, resulting in them being one of the most prolific “clubs” out there. Racecraft asked them for a bit of back ground information about their group and how long it’s been going:
Aston Martin DBS by
Chris
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West Berks Scale Model Club is currently celebrating its tenth anniversary. It was formed in January 2002 by a small group of like minded modellers, who specialise in building 1/24 & 1/25 scale automotive subjects. We are not a club in the traditional sense, but a group of friends who meet up on a monthly basis and exhibit their models together at various events throughout the UK. Currently we have just three permanent members, but we also have a number of associates that join us as occasional guest members at certain events. Although West Berks Scale Model Club is strictly automotive, we encompass a wide range of sub-genres including classics, sports & supercars, trucks and motorcycles. We also share a general interest in motoring and motorsports too.
Isuzu Bellet 1600 by
UB L C L E D O M S WEST BERK
Ady
E T SI CLUB
We put the guys at WBMC on the spot and asked them if one of them stood out from the others? Who was their automotive messiah? You know, the one that always managed to get results, just that little bit better than the rest? We found out that the WBMC isn’t about the individual;
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Within our club each member views each other as an equal. Our organisation and activities are non-competitive and we build models for our own enjoyment. The general philosophy is ‘if it looks right - it is right!’ Whilst we do use reference information and pictures for inspiration, and also enjoy the process of researching our subjects, we are not rivetcounters and do not strive for absolute accuracy. We often find things that are technically correct just don’t work in scale. That said, we always like our completed models to have an authentic overall appearance and concentrate our efforts on achieving a high standard of finish. At shows we have often been accused of displaying die-cast models. Many people perceive them to be of high quality and assume that a professional looking paint finish cannot be achieved by an amateur modeller. Although initially taken aback by these suggestions, we have now learnt to take it as a compliment! With that answer in mind, we had to ask if the boys had had a defining moment, one that had set the apart from the other clubs and made them proud;
Rallyart Evo X by Ady
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Over the past few years the club is proud to have been presented with the ‘Best Club Display’ award at a number of shows. Many show organisers and visitors alike have commented that it’s great to see such an eclectic mix of colourful models. Back in 2006 our club website was launched, allowing us the opportunity to showcase a selection of our favourite and latest models for everyone to see. And finally, we asked if the WBMC had any aims for the future? Did they want to be eternal show stoppers, or are you out to demonstrate that modelling is a hobby that should be compulsory for everyone?
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The main aim of our club is for it to be used as a platform for us to enjoy the experience of automotive modelling, and promote this to others. If you’ve got any questions about our club, our models or modelling techniques, please feel free to contact us via our website. If you see us at a show, why not stop by, say ‘hello’ and chat about pretty much anything automotive! So there you have it. The WBMC. Why not seek them out at the next show you visit, check out their website or catch up with the members on forum.spc.org.uk
Mercedes SL65 by Chris
AUTOMOTIVE MODELLING MAGAZINE
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