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Welcome Welcome to the Drinks World Asia Special Edition, Top 25 Sommeliers Hong Kong. Our aim for this project is to establish an annual event and a coveted list that every Sommelier wants to appear on. It was undoubtedly a difficult task to arrive at the 25 Sommeliers featured on the following pages, so to those who made the list congratulations. We believe your passion, skills and commitment to the Hong Kong scene have made you one of the Top 25. This project has been a fantastic process from start to finish. The magazine would like to thank everyone involved, from the brands and their sponsorships, to the photographers, selection panel and most importantly, our Top 25 Sommeliers – we love what you have done for this edition. Drinks World Asia is committed to supporting the beverage and hospitality industry, and creating a like-minded community who share our passion. Currently, the magazine operates in Hong Kong, Singapore and soon to launch in Taiwan. We endeavor to continue to expand across the Asia Pacific region in 2014. We also look forward to exploring the Top 25 of other markets in the near future. If your brands missed out this year, and would like to be involved in a future project, please contact Sasha at sasha@hipmedia. com.au. Thank you.
Marc Rodrigues Publisher, Drinks World Asia
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The largest wine and spirits exhibition in Asia-Pacific welcomes you in the centre of Hong Kong. This is a unique opportunity to browse through an unparalleled range of products and a perfect venue to meet major decision-makers in the industry. Vinexpo Asia-Pacific, definitely the place to be for the success of your business.
T H E I N T E R N AT I O N A L W I N E A N D S P I R I T S E X H I B I T I O N F O R A S I A - PA C I F I C
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Sopexa Singapore I Tel: 65 6222 5985 I heloise.ferru@sopexa.com DRINKS WORLD ASIA
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Credits
CREDITS Publisher Marc Rodrigues marc@hipmedia.com.au EDITORIAL Publishing Editor Ashley Pini Editor Britanny Lee Waller DESIGN Art Director Evelyn Rueda Senior Designer Ryan Andrew Salcedo ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Sasha Falloon SALES Sales Director Marc Rodrigues PHOTOGRAPHY Photographer Elden Cheung
Elden Cheung HK based photographer specializing in food, interior and portraits. Elden also works in the areas of editorial photography for magazines, corporate photography, annual reports and various events. His passion for photography, flair and ability to capture the moment has made his client base grow steadily.
Produced and published by
Editorial Enquiries: If you, your bar, or your brand and company have news or events you would like to share with Drinks World Asia please contact: ashley@hipmedia.com.au Although Hip Media Asia endeavours to ensure the accuracy and correctness of the information and drinks trade and drinkstrade.com.au, we do not accept any liability or responsibility for any inaccuracies or missions. The views expressed by authors of publications or event presentations, published drinks trade, do not necessarily represent the views of Hip Media Asia. Decisions or actions based on the information and publications provided by Hip Media Asia are at your own risk.
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Britanny Lee Waller Brittany Lee Waller has a long standing love for the greater Asia region having travelled across the continent frequently throughout the years. Having worked as a travel, food and lifestyle journalist, Brittany has a keen eye on the emerging trends stemming from Asia’s most vibrant and dynamic city, Hong Kong.
drinks-world-asia @drinksworldasia
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Contents
Nicolas Deneux
29
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Alan Sun
16
Sam Chong
36
Creash Wong
52
Ali Fong
20
William Chan
40
Terence Wong
56
Leo Au
24
Taka Tam
44
Lee Watson
60
Mathieu Ginglardi
32
Roy Chu
48
Yohann Jousselin
64
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John Ong
90 Yvonne Cheung
68
Simone Summari
82
Amy Yim
102
Kevin Yung
70
Bhatia Dheeraj
86
Herve Pennequin
106
Nigel Chan
74
Wallace Lo
94
Alex Cheung
110
Miquel Sabria
78
Elliot Faber
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Our Sponsors
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Selection Panel
Emma Jullien-Prat
Joe Milner
Nelson Chow
Thibaut Mathieu
Raised in a food and wine lover’s family, Emma Jullien-Prat started her wine journey (out of passion and out of love!) as a wine broker in Bordeaux in 2005. Her responsibility was to source the wine profiles required by Bordeaux wine merchants among the 8,000 estates of the region… “And that’s how you literally start your working day, finding yourself tasting wines directly from the tanks at 8.30am with the wine producer”… Thereafter, she was hired by one of the most prestigious wine merchants in Bordeaux to sell highend wines and Classified Growths on the French Market. She brought her wine knowledge to the next step by settling in China in 2008, representing wine estates. “Hong Kong is such a great place to taste wine! Not a single day without a wine tasting somewhere… it can be the casual wine tasting groups, wine tasting with friends, international wine fairs, the more formal WSET tastings… or just at home, with my husband, enjoying to discover a new wine!”.
Joe’s career in the liquor industry spans over 13 years working in Sydney, London and Hong Kong. Joe has spent the last six years in an Asia Pacific capacity working in both corporate and entrepreneurial environments. The last three years was spent heading up the luxury international spirits division for Diageo, actively engaging strategies around the top end bar, nightclub and restaurants category across Asia Pacific Region. Now, he has taken on the exciting challenge of working in the wine industry with Constellation Brands and our key distributors.
Mr Chow is currently the President of the Hong Kong Sommelier Association (Greater China) and for the past 17 years. His encyclopaedic knowledge of wine has been acquired during the course of more than three decades as a sommelier in the hospitality industry, including senior positions at various five-star hotels and eminent restaurants. Over the years he was been Vice President of a 5 star hotel group, Principle instructor of two education centre, EAM of a 5-star hotel, Club Manager of the prestigious China Club, Food & Beverage Manager of the Jockey Club, and Restaurant Manager of Petrus, the Hong Kong restaurant with a great wine pedigree and Captain of the Mandarin Grill. Mr Chow’s expertise has won him a number of highly respected titles in the professional realm, such as Commander du Bon Temps de Medoc et des Graves, Chevalier du Sopexa en Gastronomie Francaise and accredited lecturer for L’Ecole du Vin de Bordeaux.. He was given accreditation as Jurade du St Emilion and Chevalier du Ordre des coteaux de Champagne. Recently he was named as Le Grand Conseil de Bordeaux.
Thibaut, a French native, graduated from the Business School of Montpellier with a major in International Wine Business. He traveled to China in 2002 to complete his academic studies and to gain experience in one of the most dynamic wine markets in the world. After working for several importers, including Edrington China (formerly Maxxium),Thibaut moved to Hong Kong to gain additional experience in the fine wine business. Thibaut joined ASC Fine Wines Hong Kong in 2008, being part of the initial start-up team. Currently, he serves as the General Manager for Hong Kong and Macau.
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3
years in Bourgognes
The 2011 Vintage:
Pleasure is the watchword Thanks to some unusual weather conditions - which could be becoming the norm, given what happened in 2012 - the 2011 vintage is characterized by some delicious aromas and flavors. These are wines to be enjoyed relatively young. The weather for the 2011 vintage began spectacularly with a particularly warm and early spring, before giving way to a cool and rainy summer with periodic heavy storms. As is often the case, a sunny end to August “a fait le moût” or “made the juice”, as they say. For the third time in a decade, the harvests began in the last 10 days of August, with some very tricky logistics. Each plot had to be harvested as it reached perfect maturity, and the sunshine in early September and low rainfall meant patience was required. The grapes had to be painstakingly sorted but the high discard resulted in fruity, silky reds and whites that were bursting with energy.
White wines Chablis and Auxerrois Summer 2011 was changeable. June and August were particularly wet, and July and September saw little sunshine. Given these tricky conditions, winemakers had to be determined and extremely rigorous in order to produce such high-quality, seductive wines. They are very aromatic wines with good minerality and offer balanced acidity on the tongue, a quality essential to Chablis. This acidity has a
classic lemon twist without being tart. A touch of citrus and fresh, fruity notes of pear and apricot make these wines expressive and forthright. They will be ripe for drinking fairly quickly. Some of the wines from these regions, which have a wonderful complexity and perfect structure, can wait a few years. Côte de Beaune Small yields resulting from the capricious spring weather meant the harvesting could wait until the grapes were perfectly ripe. With a more clement month of September and some strict sorting, the winemakers were graced with top quality grapes. Overall, the wines are very aromatic, dominated by notes of both ripe and dried fruits. In the mouth, they are lively with perfect structure and offer breadth with consistency. After a few months in the bottle, they will quickly soften up to reach a perfect balance. They offer very good keeping potential. Côte Chalonnaise For the Côte Chalonnaise, 2011 will remain a gloomy year. The vines in the Montagny and Rully appellations were hit hard by hail. A few vines were, however, spared and went on to produce wines that are aromatic, smooth and fat, with perfect mouthfeel. The same goes for other appellations like
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Mercurey, Bouzeron and Givry, which were less hard hit and produced their usual yields. These whites offer a fine balance between sugars and acidity which indicates good balance and liveliness on the nose. The aromas are expressive, with hints of almond, pear and toasted bread. The acidity is present but never unpleasant. Mâconnais The Mâconnais enjoyed a mild winter and a hot, dry spring. Many storms during the summer and a heat wave during the second half of August meant the grapes matured very early. The winemakers, who used their skills to manage yields and preserve the balance of sugar and acidity, saw their efforts rewarded. The wines have the smoothness of early vintages with that extra minerality of cool summers, a combination that guarantees excellence and good keeping potential. This is most certainly an excellent vintage! The best terroirs offer an intense golden color, notes of flint, vanilla and ripe grape and peach, topped off by an attractively exotic hint of ripe mango and pineapple. The palate treads a line between elegance and sophistication with a forthright, sometimes austere finish. These wines will age very well, but they can also be enjoyed now as an aperitif or with food.
Red wines Auxerrois The reds, mainly from Irancy, offer lovely notes of morello cherry and redcurrant. Fresh and delicious, they should be enjoyed in their youth. Côte de Beaune Hard work paid off in 2011 on the Côte de Beaune. Despite rather tricky weather at the beginning of summer, the grape harvest took place in optimum conditions. The grapes were perfectly mature and healthy in the main, ensuring some quality wines.
The reds from the Côte de Beaune are very aromatic, dominated by elegant fruity notes, and are dense, full-bodied in the mouth with smooth, velvety tannins. They are flavorful and delicate, and are among the best of the region. Côte Chalonnaise With such tricky weather, careful yield management was key to ensuring the maturity of the grapes. In the end, the red grapes offered thick skins which translated into forthright tannins and raspberry red colors with hints of violet. Despite being hit by hail, Rully profited from the fine weather during the tail end of the season and the reds caught up with the rest, offering some desirable concentration. The wines are aromatic with good structure. With a framework of smooth and silky tannins, they are perfect for enjoying in their youth. Côte de Nuits The Côte de Nuits grapes were harvested in tip-top condition. Despite the dismal weather earlier in the summer, the grapes were ripe by the beginning of September. Although there was a lot of discard from the harvest, the resulting wines were elegant and silky, with wonderful concentration. They have a moderate degree of alcohol which makes them mouthwateringly appealing without heaviness. Rich ruby in color, these wines explore all the nuances of a classic, fruity year, between raspberry, blueberry and warm spices. They are remarkably fresh in the mouth and are perfectly balanced. They offer good structure, underpinned by tannins that are both closed yet silky. Complex and full-bodied, the 2011 wines of the Côte de Nuits offer good keeping potential, but as with the 2007 vintage, they are also accessible in their youth, and are already generous and appealing.
Crémant de Bourgogne The 2011 Crémant de Bourgogne wines are smooth and expressive with a rounded mouthfeel. The Chardonnay offer pure aromas of white peach and grapefruit. The Aligoté release light and discreet acidulated notes. Despite low yields, the Pinot Noir have good structure and strong color. The Gamay are bursting with intense aromas of red berries.
The 2012 Vintage:
Precious Bourgogne wines
One year after the harvests, the 2012 vintage is fulfilling the promise of the first tastings. The year was notable for its rollercoaster weather, with a mild winter, spring-like temperatures in March, followed by a sharp drop and some frosts, a sunny May, cold and rainy June, and an unstable summer with periods of heat wave, hail and storms… Although the cold and damp during flowering led to shatter and millerandage, with an inevitable impact on volumes, the sunny and warm late summer allowed the grapes to attain good levels of ripeness and the harvest was relatively disease-free. Today, the wines of the 2012 vintage are revealing more of their personalities. Their wide range reflects the aromatic diversity that characterizes the wines of Bourgogne. They also reflect the climatic conditions to which the vines were subjected, and the efforts of the winemakers and négociants to bring out the best in the fruit. These wines all have two characteristics in common: small quantities, but good quality.
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White wines Chablis and Auxerrois As in most regions of the Bourgogne, the changeable weather conditions had an impact on yields. In the earlier-ripening sectors, shatter and millerandage led to a drop in volumes, although the quality was unimpeachable. The wines are particularly expressive, developing intense aromas of ripe fruit, underscored with some wonderful floral notes. In the mouth, they are rounded and dense, with good structure. Those wines from more late-ripening plots are characterized by more subtle citrus scents and tangy fruits, well-defined and mineral in the mouth, where the acidity gives them a pleasant crispness. Côte de Beaune The Côte de Beaune was hit by hail, resulting in a significant fall in volumes harvested, especially in the central and southern sectors. The wines are showing remarkable quality overall, with nice concentration and undeniable aromatic complexity. Spared the hail, the hill of Corton and the surrounding region produced some marvels. The wines, with notes of ripe and dried fruits, are powerful and vivacious in the mouth, revealing clear ageing potential. The very promising results lived up to expectations. Côte Chalonnaise Not having suffered from hailstorms and having been less affected by bad weather, the Côte Chalonnaise provided an excellent 2012 vintage. Made from very healthy fruit, which reached full maturity, the wines are rich and full-bodied. They exhibit excellent aromatic qualities, with odors of white fruits and apricot mingling with delicate floral notes (lime blossom, acacia, etc.). The mouth is full and fleshy, and superbly structured Mâconnais The Mâcon region bounced back well after the poor spring weather. Although shatter and millerandage led to reduced volumes and in places, slowed ripening, the quality of the wines obtained is exemplary. They are very expressive on the nose, with intense aromas of ripe fruits (pear, apple, apricot), accompanied by subtle hints of flowers. The mouth is both rounded and dense, fleshy and perfectly balanced. The 2012 vintage here produced many spectacular successes.
Red wines Auxerrois Patient winemakers got their reward. Maturity was a long time coming, but was finally attained, thanks to the small volumes produced. Fruity and with a pleasant crispness, the wines are full in the mouth, with pronounced tannins. Côte de Beaune The violent hailstorms that swept the Côte de Beaune left an indelible trace on the year’s output. Some plots in the communes of Pommard and its surroundings lost up to 80% of the harvest. These difficult climatic conditions were responsible for the low volumes produced. The resulting wines benefited from the effect of concentration, which has become a qualitative advantage. They are fruity and spicy, with good breadth, and a crisp, pleasing acidity. Their body and tannin structure mean they have very good ageing potential. Côte Chalonnaise Thanks to rather more clement weather conditions than in some neighboring regions, the Côte Chalonnaise produced a vintage that will go down in the annals. Outstanding maturity and peak condition grapes allowed for wines with exceptional aromatic and gustatory characteristics. Côte de Nuits With 2012, the Côte de Nuits produced an excellent vintage. Having escaped the hail, but not the effect of shatter and millerandage, the grapes reached maturity in tip-top conditions. The wines, with a deep color and aromas of small fruits and very ripe berries, are remarkably balanced. Both smooth and crisp, their roundedness is underscored by especially soft tannins. With a succulent finish and impressive length, they can without any doubt be considered wines for long ageing.
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The 2013 Vintage:
Prodigious Bourgogne wines After the challenges thrown at them in 2012, Bourgogne winemakers were hoping for a peaceful 2013. But capricious Mother Nature had other ideas. Defying all weather forecasts, she never let up. After a long winter, a gloomy spring and a fine, providential summer, for the most part, the pickers had to wait until the start of October to take up their secateurs. The consequences of the weather’s whims – such as shatter and millerandage, hail damage, concentration and disease – all had an impact on the quantities harvested. Across the region, no winegrowing area was spared. Some had very low yields with volumes equal to or even less than those recorded in 2012 (1.26 million hectoliters ). Fortunately, the first tastings suggest that 2013 is a very successful vintage. Once again, experience has made all the difference. It has been a challenging year but the winegrowers of Bourgogne have been rewarded for their pains.
We feared the worst, but we were spared! The winter lingered in Bourgogne. From January to July, the temperatures were cool. The sun was notably absent during the first half of the year, and the rain all too frequent. This gloomy weather affected the vines, setting back the growth cycle by around two weeks. In early May, when the first buds had just appeared, torrential rainstorms hit the region. In some plots, the vines spent several days with their roots in water. The weather during flowering and fruit set was no better and by now, the growth cycle was set back by three weeks. A hot, dry and sunny summer provided a welcome change and helped the quality of the grapes, enabling them to mature correctly. July was marked by a violent hailstorm on the Côte de Beaune with 1,350 hectares affected on 23 July.
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September didn’t help the vines, with the ambient warmth and regular rain encouraging the development of the Botrytis fungus which rots the grapes. It was more limited on those bunches where the grapes were smaller and thus better aerated. The choice of harvest date was a tough one. Winegrowers had to be very reactive and work fast. This demanding vintage required a lot of effort that, today, has been rewarded with success. The wines are revealing a real aromatic purity and unexpectedly color. The balance in the wines is particularly satisfactory.
White wines Fruity and balanced, the white wines are characterized by a nose marked with citrus. This aromatic crispness is also felt in the mouth. The wines are well structured, fresh and lively, without the aggression some feared given the acidity measurements taken just before the harvest. Forthright and without flourishes, the whites of 2013 stand up convincingly to previous vintages.
Red wines With an intense, sparkling ruby color, these fruity wines are like a mouthful of freshly picked cherries, raspberries and redcurrants. The Pinot Noirs that were harvested later have more jammy aromas. On tasting, the first acidulated notes give way to a good structure supported by sophisticated, pronounced tannins. Good length on the tongue prolongs the pleasure.
Crémant de Bourgogne Good acidity and sugar levels meant that at the end of September, the grapes harvested were perfect for making Crémant de Bourgogne. The lively and fruity white base wines reveal aromas of white peach and grapefruit. The Pinot Noirs are characterized by fine structure, while the Gamays offered very high quality with intense aromas of red fruit. 2013 offers producers the possibility to make vintage cuvées with good keeping potential.
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A
lan Sun of The Mira Hong Kong, has always held great interest in wine, even before he started officially educating himself in it. He believes that a healthy body and mind are just as important as knowledge and experience when it comes down to being one of the best Sommeliers.
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How did you first know you were going to be a Sommelier? I have always been a self-learning wine enthusiast. Once I joined Hong Kong Sommelier Association, I acquired professional knowledge and gained recognition with various wine qualifications. Then I was given the chance to become a Sommelier. What type of training or experience prepared you to become a Sommelier? To keep expanding my wine knowledge I never stop exploring the vast world of wine. The best way to achieve growth is through countless blind tasting sessions to learn the differences between vintages, grapes, regions etc. What traits or skills are required to be a successful Sommelier? Maintain good health, do not
smoke, sustain your learning and take up new challenges such as participating in wine competitions. You oversee a large bottle wine list. How often do you review your list and how often are you re-tasting your wines? I focus on the different price range and wine region on list for the guests. This gives our guests more variety. In general, I often re-taste the wine for the service. When the guests order the wines, I can taste them to explain the quality and flavor. After that I always take tasting notes for my reference. What is the most challenging situation you’ve been in or request you’ve received as a Sommelier? Participation in the ‘Best Sommelier Competition’ was a great challenge and a memorable
one. There were many participants and a lot of fierce competition, which motivates us to keep the Sommelier level at its highest and keep striving to learn more. WINE REVIEW Tell us what you like about Mumm Blanc de Blancs? Bright yellow with light golden hue and tiny bubbles. It has clean aromas of tropical fruit, floral and toasty. The finish is well-balanced and there is lingering acidity and fruitiness. Fine complexity displaying layers of biscuit and dry apricot flavor. Elegant finish with a long length of persistence. What would you pair it with food or occasions? I would like to pair with a seafood platter and sushi. The Champagne Mumm Blanc de Blancs has high acidity, which balances the
seafood platter and sushi to make a refreshing aftertaste. I would recommend this Champagne for any special commemoration. What do like about the region it’s from? Mumm Blanc de Blancs is produced from the Champagne region - Côte des Blancs. This Champagne is single Grand Cru vineyard (cramant) and single grape variety (chardonnay). The chalky soils can provide the best structure and mineral to the Champagne. What do you like about the varietal and or style? This Champagne has “demimousse” tradition which possesses a delicate effervescence, because its pressure is lower than other champagnes (4.5 bar). The low dosage (6g/l) is also attuned with the mineral purity of its character.
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Mumm de Cramant
BLANC DE BLANCS
“This champagne is highly precise and incredibly fine; nothing is left to chance.”
DIDIER MARIOTTI Cellar Master
DISCOVERY OF A G.H. MUMM TERROIR Its unique label illustrates G.H. MUMM special know-how. Indeed, tradition required that each bottle presented to friends of the House be accompanied by a visiting card that was carefully folded at the corner, to indicate that the bottle was handed over in person. The G.H. Mumm Blanc de Blancs bottle is superbly elegant, with a slender neck that enables the wine to age beautifully at a slower rate. The unusual shape also ensures the lasting freshness of aromas. HISTORY The G.H. Mumm Blanc de Blancs is a rare wine, dating back to 1882. It is crafted according to the finest champagne-making tradition, using the very best Chardonnay grapes selected from Cramant, a Grand Cru terroir from the legendary Côtes des Blancs where G.H. MUMM acquired vineyards the very same year. Initially served exclusively to friends and directors of the House, this G.H. Mumm Blanc de Blancs is now appreciated by the most discerning connoisseurs for its delicate effervescence and incredible purity. This Cuvée champagne is an exceptional, limited edition creation that can only be acquired in small quantities from wine merchants and in the finest restaurants.
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ASSEMBLAGE G.H. Mumm Blanc de Blancs is made exclusively from Chardonnay grapes, a delicate variety cultivated on the Cramant terroir, undoubtedly one of the prettiest village in the Champagne region, in the heart of Côte des Blancs. Its micro-climate and particularly chalky soil (Cramant means “chalk mountain”) are ideal for cultivating exceptionally fresh Chardonnay grapes.
CRAFTING The crafting of G.H. Mumm Blanc de Blancs is unusual in that, although the wine uses grapes from a single harvest, the Cellar Master decided to preserve its fine, fresh sharpness rather than create a Vintage. Its delicate effervescence is optimised by a pressure that, at 4.5 bars, is deliberately lower than that of most champagnes. Combined with a low sugar content (6g) and controlled ageing process, the result is a smooth and almost creamy tasting.
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W
ith always an interest in wine, Ali Fong started his journey eight years ago and is now hotel Sommelier at the Ritz Carlton Hong Kong. Constantly working the floor and interacting with his guests, Ali’s mission while working is to introduce wine to guests that might push the boundaries but will certainly be the highlight of their night.
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How did you know you wanted to be a Sommelier? I have always been interested in wine. Eight years ago, I was inspired by the head Sommelier of the Pierre Restaurant of the Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong. I started to learn about wine by myself and passed the WSET 2 and 3. But professionally, I never considered a career in wine until I was promoted to join the Sommelier team of the Mandarin Grill. Three years ago, I was employed by the Ritz Carlton Hong Kong to become a hotel Sommelier; it was an amazing experience for me much like a book lover working in the library. What has been your biggest satisfaction as a Sommelier? When I can open a bottle of wine for someone that changes his or her comfort zone. Every night I am on the floor of the Tosca Italian restaurant as a Sommelier, I am interacting with the customers very frequently. In Hong Kong, most of the people are not really familiar with the Italian wine in the contra of French wines; it’s really fun when I can direct them to the Italian wine world by my choice. Still, my highest mission is to introduce you to a wine that will make your night. The most challenging situation you’ve been in or request you’ve received as a Sommelier? A very demanding high spender who owns a huge personal wine collection was asking me to select a bottle of wine from my list to him without any direction. Most of the time, I try to extract from the guest what they are going to eat, what their preferred style of wine is, what they are comfortable with in terms of price and the region. However, he didn’t provide any information for me, as was looking for a surprise but also wouldn’t pay for a wine which he didn’t like. Luckily our hotel guest relationship officer was telling me that she was dining out with this guest in a French restaurant a few days prior and that he collected a lot of vintages of Petrus. Finally, I opened a bottle of 1988 Le Pin to him, and he was very appreciative of my choice. Do you have a preference for new world or old world wines? Depends on occasion or atmosphere, but mostly I like to have old world wines for dining in a restaurant. Especially a bottle of Burgundy or Brunello, it was an enjoyment to see the changing of the wine during the whole dinner. If you, personally, could make your own wine and make it anywhere in the world, where would that be and what wine would you make? It would be incredibly romantic to drop everything and move somewhere to make your own wine. If I had this chance, I would love to move to Italy, Montalcino to make my own-labelled Brunello. WINE REVIEW What is special about Bollinger Special Cuvee? It is one of the finest Champagnes. I like its full-bodied toasty character derived from a high proportion of pinot noir and the inclusion of base wine that has been matured in oak. How would you pair it? It would be perfectly matched with some Spanish or Parma ham, prawn Carpaccio or Sashimi. Though, I would say that Bollinger is great for all kinds of celebrations especially wedding or company dinner. What do you like about the varietal and or style? The style of Bollinger is famous for both richness and finesse, aided in the non-vintage special cuvee by partial vinification in barrel and an extraordinary collection of reserve wines. Bollinger Special Cuvee’s style is most attractive to me with its golden color, distinctive pinot noir characters, it shows the complexity and tempting fruitiness. It is one of Champagne’s most recognisable wines.
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BOLLINGER
“I drink my Champagne when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with if I’m not hungry and I drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it, unless I’m thirsty.” - Madame Lily Bollinger, London Daily Mail, October 17th 1961 Winery history & background Established more than 180 years ago, Bollinger is one of the last family owned wineries in Champagne. The “Special Cuvée” is the most representative blend of the House. The Bollinger Charter of Ethics lays down quality standards for its fine wines now and into the future. Controlled growth over the last 50 years has been the continuity of extreme quality, with Bollinger successfully selling in over 80 countries worldwide. Cellar Master Gilles Descôtes is Bollinger’s Cellar Master. This profession requires the utmost accuracy: from the moment the harvest is over he monitors the wines from each cru and each plot, getting the feel of their specific characteristics. He chooses the finest wines to be vinified in old oak casks, a practice which has almost disappeared in champagne production. The micro-oxygenation process delicately reveals the wines’ complexity and gives them an extraordinary capacity for aging. With patience and thoroughness the Cellar Master prepares each wine for the Tasting Committee when the moment comes to assemble the year’s blend. He also adds carefully preserved reserve wines, which provide an almost infinite palette of nuances and character. The Cellar Master must not simply be talented; he must also be highly intuitive in order to sense how wines will develop so that today’s blend will achieve perfection in the future.
22 °
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eo Au of The Peninsula is an exceptional Sommelier. With the ability to recall flavors and aromas of hundreds of wines, he has become very well known in the wine industry to date.
leo 24 째
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Tell us when you knew you were going to be a Sommelier? When I first joined the Peninsula back in 2006, as a waiter, I slowly found myself drawn towards the world of bartending where I started experimenting with mixology. During my three years there I started to gravitate towards fine wines, where I found my true calling. It was then I knew I was going to be a Sommelier. From that point onwards I worked hard on gaining and expanding my wine knowledge, which has only caused my passion for wines to grow, leading me to where I am today. What has been your biggest satisfaction as a Sommelier? My biggest satisfaction has always come from the joy of each of my customers. The world of wine is a substantial one, and at times can even be intimidating. My job and my passion is to assist my customers in a manner most comfortable to them. In ensuring they select a wine not only most suited with the food they are ordering, but to each individual as well. Seeing them enjoy each sip of their wine, enjoying the pleasures that the wines have to offer is what gives me my biggest satisfaction of being a Sommelier. What type of training or experience prepared you to become a Sommelier? I did the Level 3 Award in Wines and Spirits of the Wine and Spirit Education Trust in 2011. I was recognized as a Certified Sommelier and received acclaim from the Count of Master Sommeliers (March 2013) and Hong Kong Sommelier Association Greater China (January 2014). Currently, I am a candidate of the Level 4 Diploma in Wines and Spirits of the Wine and Spirit Education Trust and Certified Specialist of Wine of Society of Wine Educators. You oversee a large bottle wine list. How often do you manage to touch base and re-taste your wines? It is never easy to manage such a large wine list, and honestly, there is usually a very long period of time between when I try a wine once and the next time I try it again. As a Sommelier, it is incredibly important to take tasting notes of each of the wines you have tasted, even if you have tried it before. Based on these notes, I am able to recall flavors and aromas of hundreds of wines, allowing me to be familiar with the entire wine list.
Do you have a preference for new world or old world wines? They both simply have their own qualities, which I love. Nothing beats a glass of well-chilled South African Sauvignon Blanc for a lunch with close friends during a hot summers day, but that does not mean I don’t enjoy that glass of Valpolicella just as much with a fine pizza and spaghetti for dinner. WINE REVIEW Tell us what you like about Champagne Barons de Rothschild Blanc de Blancs? Produced by none other than the legendary winery of the Rothschild family, it is a non-vintage champagne consisting of 100% chardonnay cuvee. Using the signature crus (Ccamant, mensil-sur-oger and vertus) of Cote des Blancs, and the blend contains 40% of reserve wine to maintain a consistent quality. An extremely classic style, yet with a complexity of a blend of citrus, floral and spice aromas topped with a hint of mineral notes and creamy mousse. This dry champagne offers a refreshing amount of acidity and leaves us with a light toasted finish. How would you pair it? This would pair splendidly with a salmon confit with avocado bavarois. The acidity of the champagne smooth’s out with the salmon, while refreshing your palate with every sip. Of course, it also goes very well on its own as an aperitif. What do like about the region it’s from? Located in one of the most northern regions of wineproducing France, Champagne has a cool continental climate. With freezing winters combined with spring frosts, the viticulture is made extremely difficult, if not impossible. In order to counter the effects of the climate, vineyards are forced to plan their vines on steep slopes, utilizing the grueling pruning techniques in order to guarantee the quality of grapes. This dedication and persistence displayed by the winemakers just enhances my appreciation towards the fine wines that originate from the region. What do you like about the varietal and or style? “White from White (grapes)” is what “Blanc de Blanc” literally translates to, thus a cuvee carrying this title, as the name suggests, is a white wine made exclusively from white grapes, primarily from chardonnay. This feature gives the champagne acidity and elegance, while providing the ability to age nicely as well.
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The
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Champagne X
XIst Century - the Rothschilds decided to create the symbol of their work and spirit values through the most prestigious wine area in the world. Respecting the Champagne area and process, the Champagne men and rules, the Rothschild family wish to build a House for the Centuries to come.
Timeline • 2005 / 2006 : beginning of the partnership / first blendings • Early 2007 : official start of the project • 2009 : birth of CHAMPAGNE BARONS DE ROTHSCHILD Foundation • Head office in Reims, nearby the most well known Champagne Houses • Grapes Supply Strategy - long term contracts with selected wine growers in the best Grands Crus / Premier Crus areas • The choice of our partners- located in the heart of the vineyards (Côte des Blancs) who share values of winemaking, family and culture, who are expertise in Champagne Products • limited edition of 3 qualities based on specific and unique caracteristics • A high proportion of Chardonnays grapes • 40 % Reserve wines • A minimum ageing period of 3 / 4 years • A light dosage • A post disgorging period lasting minimum 4 / 6 months Style • Champagne Barons de Rothschild Brut »» An extremely fine, light and elegant wine, with a real structure ; easy to drink »» Blending : 40 % Pinot / 60 % Chardonnay »» One of the wine with the highest ‘Chardonnays grapes’ proportion amongst the most famous brut Champagnes • Champagne Barons de Rothschild Blancs de Blancs »» A highly subtle wine : the balance of strength and freshness »» Blending : 100 % Chardonnay from the heart of the Côte des Blancs • Champagne Barons de Rothschild Rosé »» An original subtle and fresh wine with delicate red fruit aromas »» Blending : 85 % Chardonnay to which »» 15 % Champagne red wine is added
26 °
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aturally, being French, Nicolas Deneux loves wine. He loves the history, the geography and of course, the wine itself. Nicolas believes he will never stop learning as a Sommelier and that every day is a chance to develop his own knowledge of the wine world. Here we find out just how he got to be the Sommelier he is today. When did you first know you were going to be a Sommelier? After I graduated from my Service Industry Bachelor in Paris, I knew I wanted to specialize in a more specific field than the usual service industry. I then applied for an intense one year Sommelier program at the International hospitality school in Paris. After a few months studying wine and geography, I fell in love with the job. What has been your biggest satisfaction from being a Sommelier? The incredible interaction with people. Being a Sommelier gives you the chance to interact with the best guests or wine consumers in the world, but also the ‘wine people’ who are the ones that teach me a great deal whenever I travel to wine regions. What type of training or experience prepared you to become a sommelier? There are many ways to become a Sommelier. I truly believe that passion is the key but above all, the best way to learn is to travel and meet people that grow grapes and make wines. However, in order to get the basics, learning from books is a ‘must do’ step we all need to go through. Geography, climate and geology are key components for the understanding of this job. There is also a huge wine and beverage law component in the process as well as other beverage knowledge. The great thing about this job is that it is impossible to be a 100% established Sommelier as the learning grows every day and never stops. You oversee a large bottle wine list. How often do you manage to touch base and re-taste your wines? At the Grand Hyatt Hong Kong we manage nine outlets and have four main wine lists but my team and I taste every day. We also provide trainings for our teams on a very regular basis in order to develop our people. Do you have a preference for new world or old world wines? Old or new world wines can be very different or very similar in many ways. Preference comes down to a style, a taste, a structure that can be found in both new and old world wines. I personally tend to like wines with a true mineral structure. By mineral, I mean wines that truly bring a message from the soil or place they are from. Wines that are lean, straight forward and mineral are usually my favorite. If wines have this structure then richness or a higher level of sugar is not an issue.
28 °
WINE REVIEW Tell us about Cuvee Rose Laurent-Perrier? Cuvee Rose Laurent-Perrier is obviously one of the most popular Rose Champagne’s: it’s very deep salmon color is mainly due to the fact that Laurent-Perrier partially work in maceration technic (Saignée). This method allows LaurentPerrier to keep a refreshing but deep wine of Champagne. Red berries and even dark berries are very much present on the nose. On the palate, the first impression of fruit and elegance before developing to a second impression that gives more muscles and structure due to the usage of the Pinot Noir varietal (100%). A very important aspect from Laurent-Perrier is that all growers they work with are very carefully picked in order to respect provenance and quality of the different terroir qualities. How would you pair it? Delectable just as an aperitif, Laurent Perrier Rose also can be served with an elegant appetizer such as ceviche of fish or seafood (Hirame, Sea Bass or Scallops). Warm fish or seafood is naturally a perfect match as well as an excellent match for a chicken breast too and may surprise a lot of consumers when paired with stronger meat such as pigeon or venison. What do like about the region it’s from? Located at the northern limit of the wine world, Champagne is truly a unique wine region due to its particular climate and geography, which creates a challenging environment for the grapes to fully ripen. Chalk is the main type of soil (Premier and grand Cru) and in other areas like “l’Aube” have more clay soils allowing producers to mix different qualities and typicity of wines (leaner or softer). Wines from Champagne have a unique style and really take the best from the terroir. Champagne also represents happiness and passion. Indeed it is a special wine region to me as, being from Paris, it is the wine regions I have visited the most. What do you like about the varietal and or style? Chardonnay is a neutral varietal that express a very good impression of the terroir it is from, especially chalk soil type terroirs. Pinot Noir brings elegance and also structure as with the cold climate of Champagne this varietal cannot over ripen. Pinot Meunier is, most of the times used in blends in order to bring tannins and balance. An interesting varietal that not every one considers as noble as Pinot Noir.
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CUVÉE ROSÉ
LAURENT - PERRIER The story behind the wine The Cuvée Rosé Laurent-Perrier was created in 1968 using bold, innovative ‘savoir-faire’ methods learnt from production of still wines called ‘Coteaux Champenois’. Perfected at each stage of its making, the Cuvée Rosé is now the benchmark in its category. Held in an elegant wine bottle inspired by King Henri IV, this rosé champagne has been widely acknowledged for its consistent high quality for more than 40 years. The blend Blended from 10 different ‘crus’ (or villages) situated mainly in the South and North areas of the Montagne de Reims – including the famous Côte de Bouzy – notably from the finest crus of Ambonnay, Bouzy, Louvois and Tours-sur-Marne. Wine making and ageing Laurent-Perrier’s technical facilities are dedicated to the making of the Cuvée Rosé. Grapes from carefully selected plots are then meticulously sorted and destemmed before going into the vats. Controlled maceration – lasting from 48h to 72h depending on the harvest – helps the extraction of colour and the development of the full aromatic richness of the Pinot Noir. It is aged in the cellars for at least four years.
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Tasting notes ASPECT: Elegant, with colour changing naturally from a pretty raspberry hint to salmon-pink.
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AROMA: Precise and very crisp. Wide range of small red fruits: strawberries, redcurrants, raspberries and black cherries. Its amazing freshness is the dominating note. TASTE: Intensely fruity flavours, clean, well-defined and slightly sharp, the wine then opens up to provide an impression of plunging into a basket of freshly picked red berries: strawberries, Morello cherries, blackcurrants and raspberries. The wine is supple and rounded on the finish. Serving Serve at around 8°C and 10°C. The Cuvée Rosé Laurent-Perrier is a delicious apéritif. This cuvée, thanks to its aromatic character, allows various food and wine pairings. It matches well with raw fishes (marinated red mullets and tartare of tuna), grilled prawns, fine charcuterie (such as Italian prosciutto), duck, lamb and creamy cheeses such as Chaource. The Cuvée Rosé is also an extraordinary match for red fruit desserts. The more daring will try it with Asian – even Indian – cuisine.
30 °
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mathieu
ginglardi
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French man, Mathieu has a natural love and interest for wine. After spending time all around the world, working in some of the finest hotels, he now resides as chief Sommelier at SPOON, InterContinental with Alain Ducasse. Tell us a bit about your history in wine. My career as a Sommelier started in 2004 in Switzerland where I worked for a Relais et Chateaux Hotel with 2-Michelin stars. This experience helped me to feel comfortable with guests and it also afforded me the opportunity to try some great rare bottles. After three years there, like many people from France, I decided to move to England to learn English. After a tour of China with a stop-over work experience for 10 months in Macau, I joined Alain Ducasse Enterprise in Paris, where I worked at Jules Verne Restaurant in Eiffel Tower, SPOON Food & Wine Paris, and Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenée as assistant chef Sommelier. After a few years back in France the corporate wine director of Alain Ducasse gave me the opportunity to move to Hong Kong to become chief Sommelier at SPOON by Alain Ducasse at InterContinental Hong Kong. Tell us when you knew you were going to be a Sommelier? I was raised in a farming family in which the culture and cuisine of “the table” and “dining” versus “eating” were important. My grandmother and my mother always cooked elaborate dishes; and we all drank wine for dinner. I remember on Sundays when the family was enjoying traditional lunch, the moment the coffee was being served, even as a child, I was able to have my sugar soaked in Armagnac. At that time I didn’t imagine I would become a Sommelier, but maybe the training started here at this young age! You oversee a large bottle wine list. How often do you manage to touch base and re-taste your wines? Our SPOON wine list is changing often, due to the new wines we select. I like the changes, as I hate to drink the same wine every day! Every bottle we open, we try in order to ensure the wine is in the right condition. As such, it is easy to try the entire cellar within a few weeks. Often, Joe, our assistant Sommelier and I will open a bottle to try it again as an exercise. This helps us to explore new food and wine pairings and improve our own memories and wine knowledge.
If you could make your own wine and make it anywhere in the world, where would that be and what wine would you make? I will definitely say Southwest France, which is where I am originally from. The “Gascogne” is an area which has a rich culture of “Savoir vivre” (ie: knowing how to live the good life). This region produces Armagnac and some fantastic wines which unfortunately are not well known outside the country. WINE REVIEW Tell us what you like about the Charles Heidsieck Champagne? I like the character, which is rich and toasted, with an elegant texture and freshness. The notes of almond, grilled bread, plums and cherries, combined with delicate bubbles, definitely put this Champagne on the list of the Top 10 branded Champagnes. How would you pair it? It is a Champagne with complexity, so I would not serve it as an aperitif. This Champagne actually makes some great pairings with elaborate dishes. Fish and crustaceans, Sea Bass with Truffle, or even Sea Scallops with Swiss chard tomato and morels would go nicely with this Champagne. What do like about the region it’s from? I like the diversity of the wine’s terroir and the patience of the winemaker in creating an elaborate bottle of Champagne. There is dynamism in this region, with the new generation of Champagne growers. They are creating some exclusive wine, in small quantities with real personalities. Generally these come from the best terroir and offer a great value for guests. What do you like about the varietal and or style? Charles Heidsieck decided to use 40% of its reserve wines, with some of them more than 10 years old. The elaborate wine is comprised of 60 different Crus and the grape varietals used include Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. It has character and is a great value Champagne but still a great finesse and balance.
Do you have a preference for new world or old world wines? I will say old world wines are my preference, due to the diversity of the terroir and long history and heritage in winemaking.
32 °
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Charles
Heidsieck C
harles-Camille Heidsieck was born in 1822 into a family where eminent Reims traditions reign side by side with Prussian rigour. At age 29 he founded a Maison designed in his image and creates a wine to reflect his personality. An audacious decision in a region where the Heidsieck name ranks among the most renowned Champagne houses. Charles is a man of his time, a visionary and an adventurer. Charles’ reputation spreads quickly around the metropolitan centres. Certain of his Champagne’s quality he decides to take it around the world. After achieving success throughout Europe, he sets his sights on, what he sees as a tremendous opportunity, the United States of America. He is the very first Champagne merchant to make the journey in 1852, a voyage he will make four times. After a short while Charles is a genuine phenomenon in the North, a “personality from Champagne”, whose every act features in the newspapers. He lives the life of a dandy and becomes known as “Champagne Charlie”. In more recent years, under the watchful eye of the legendary Regis Camus and now Thierry Roset, Charles Heidsieck has built up one of the most important stocks of reserve wines in all Champagne. In fact the Brut Reserve, the flagship wine of the house, is comprised of 40% of these wines. Selected grapes from a precisely selected 60
34 °
crus, vinified cru by cru and each varietal separately, these wines are held until they have reached the maturity and profoundness that will permit them to be elaborated into the final assemblage. And, because a standard cannot supersede the demand for refinement, the ageing period for non-vintage Champagnes is a minimum of three years, whereas the law sets the threshold at fifteen months. The wines are matured in the peaceful haven of a series of forty seven cellars, connected by galleries, all located at a depth of twenty metres underground where the temperature remains at a constant ten degrees Celsius. The remaining 60% of the Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve are wines from the year, blended in equal proportions of Chardonnay for its freshness and elegance, Pinot Noir for structure, and Pinot Meunier for the generosity of fruit. The reserve wines are what set the style as well as the affirmed and generous character.
Medals & Rankings for Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve Non-Vintage: 92/100 #1 NV Champagne Fine Champagne Magazine
16.5/20 Bettane & Desseauve
Gold Medals: International Wine Challenge Mondial de Bruxelles International Wine & Spirits Competition Decanter World Wine Awards Mundus Vini Champagne Masters
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sam A
chong
fter a small upset as a young waiter, Sam Chong quickly learnt how important it was to increase his knowledge of wine. Now as Sommelier as Hotel Nikko Hong Kong, he believes that communication and a strong sense of wit with your guests are key to what makes a successful Sommelier. How did you know you were going to be a Sommelier? I think it started around 6 years ago when I was working at a lounge as a waiter. One day, a guest ordered a bottle of Chateau Margaux 1994, unfortunately no manager or captain was on duty. Therefore I served him with absolutely no wine knowledge. After the guest left, my manager came back and found out the bottle was actually a 1996 vintage. As a result, there was a compensation to be paid of $1000 to the hotel. This experience pushed and encouraged me to learn more about wine and gradually fell in love with the wine world. What type of training or experience prepared you to become a Sommelier? I studied wine knowledge at VTC wine course and WSET, however I think work experience is very important as well, even when you have strong wine knowledge, you still need to practice all of the skills that Sommeliers require. Wiping glasses, decanting, wine opening, wine list design, you can’t learn all these things straight from books. What traits or skills are required to be a successful Sommelier? Strong wine knowledge, wine list design, service experience, skills and up selling wine. I think communication with guests and wittiness are the most important.
bottles of white and red wines from my recommendation. However, he only likes French wines and offered a very limited budget. I knew he would complain if I chose general French wines, but good quality French wines would have definitely been over budget. At the end, I came up with the idea of serving California White and Australia Red on blind tasting service to them. One white and one red opened early and decanted, all of them guessed they were French wines and four different wines. Finally they totally changed their tastes and now open to not only drinking French wines. WINE REVIEW Tell us what you like about Kim Crawford Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2013? It is a very typical Sauvignon Blanc, showing brilliant appearance. Mineral, greenish herbs, green apple, gooseberry and lemon from the nose. In the palate, fresh acidity, mineral flavor with rich lime, and grapefruit. What would you pair it with food or occasion? I recommend pairing it with Dim Sum and Chinese style steam fish as well. I think its perfect for the summer time and can even be enjoyed without food. It’s a great wine to enjoy with friends on a nice summers day.
You oversee a large bottle wine list. How often do you review your list and how often are you re-tasting your wines? I review every month and will re-taste if the vintage changed.
What do like about the region it’s from? Marlborough’s Sauvignon Blanc is so highly esteemed that it is said to be the international standard of the varietal character. A lot of small stones, good drainage soils, duration of sunshine and cool overnight temperatures enable the grape to grow with a concentrated flavor.
What is the most challenging situation you’ve been in or request you’ve received as a Sommelier? A guest of mine who knows wines very well, held a dinner party for 12 at my work, and requested to arrange two
What do you like about the varietal and or style? It’s refreshing, with lively acidity and fruitiness. Sauvignon Blanc is easy to pair with Chinese food. I’ve never had a complaint from guests.
36 °
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Undoing
the Ordinary – the Kiwi way
T
he words ‘forward thinking’, ‘outside the box’, ‘originality’ and ‘spontaneous’ are not often used in connection with wine – but Kim Crawford isn’t just any old wine. It is one of New Zealand’s most known and respected exports; with a state of the art winery in Marlborough, several high caliber accolades under the corks, and a personality that most wine brands wouldn’t dare to contain!
The roots of Kim Crawford wines reach back to 1996 when Kim the rules currently associated with fine wine! Crawford and his wife Erica fell in love with the idea of starting a winery. In 2012, over 300 VIPs attended a Kim Crawford event in New York City Determined to develop their passion into a reality, Kim and Erica ran the featuring the work of famous fashion photographer, Miles Aldridge. The company from a spare room of their home in Central Auckland, New invitation promised an extraordinary event with Miles – and they were. Zealand. Without owning grapevines or Four lounges had been decorated exploring tanks, Kim and Erica produced their first the different facets of the brand and in brand 4,000 cases and thereby established Kim colours. And then, the unexpected twist – Crawford wines. guests became part of the Miles Aldridge “At Kim Crawford, we champion Just six years after those humble mixing things up. Taking the world’s styled photography! …And the photographs beginnings, Kim Crawford Marlborough taken that night became the new “Undo expectations and turning them into Ordinary” campaign and theme for in-bar Sauvignon Blanc made the 2003 Wine something beautiful.” Spectator’s Top 100 List to roaring acclaim. and hotel parties that are currently taking It made the Top 100 list again in 2005 – and place throughout Asia! then again in 2006 and 2008. And it was Kim Crawford Undo Ordinary parties began also in 2008 that Wine Spectator awarded in Singapore last year at Grand Copthorne the Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc with a Waterfront, then moved to Bali, Indonesia prestigious ranking of 90+ points... for the at the W in September and closed out the seventh year in a row. year at Top Cloud Seoul, South Korea. The Kim Crawford wines are so much more invitation only parties have seen some 1,500 though than awards and accolades, they VIPs and media experience the Kiwi range have a personally kin to celebrity. Just look of wines first hand; alongside photo booths, at the website – adorned with sections such popcorn machines, interactive displays, as recipes for Kim Crawford pop corn and models and jazz funk entertainers. popsicles (or ice blocks as the Kiwi’s call Here’s to living a life as vibrant and bold them) and wines named “Pansy! Rose”. Kim as the wines of Kim Crawford. Here’s to Crawford is helping push the boundarieses those souls who thirst for more than just the of wine and entertaining, breaking many of ordinary!
ERICA CRAWFORD
38 °
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william
chan W
illiam Chan of The Mira Hong Kong Cuisine Cuisine, has always set his eyes on the highest heights. He has won a string of awards while also spending time learning from some of the greats in the industry. He believes keeping in good health and maintaining complete sensory awareness is key to being the best Sommelier possible. Tell us a bit about your history with wine. After I graduated from a hotel management school in Switzerland, I joined The Peninsula Hotel in 1995. In 1999 I asked my BV manager if I could participate in the “Best Sommelier Competition” which is organized by Hong Kong Sommelier Association. I ended up being the Champion that year while still only working as a captain in Gaddi’s, I wasn’t even a Sommelier. After that I was the Champion of 2001 and 2004. In 2004, I represented Hong Kong to participate the World Best Sommelier Competition which was held in Greece. After 9 years of working experience in The Peninsula, I joined Spoon by Alain Ducasse in 2003 for the opening. Currently I work at the Michelinrecommended Cuisine Cuisine at The Mira Hong Kong.
If you, personally, could make your own wine and make it anywhere in the world, where would that be and what wine would you make? I like Portuguese dry wine for its fruity, rich, full and round tannin. For this, I would like to try making it in Australia or Argentina. WINE REVIEW Tell us what you like about Rimapere Sauvignon Blanc 2013? Outstanding concentration and layered flavor profile. The wine felt closer to the Marlborough style. It is an excellent style and it has a bit of a European touch. What would you pair it with food or occasions? All kinds of shellfish, especially pan-fried scallop or Alaska king crab leg.
Tell us when you knew you were going to be a Sommelier? A lecturer in Swiss School brought me into wine industry. He taught us the differences in taste, vintage and origin of the wines. That was the transition from curious to believe.
What do like about the region it’s from? Fresh and spicy.
What traits or skills are required to be a successful Sommelier? Take good care of your health, don’t smoke, learn raw materials aroma and flavor with a good memory.
What do you like about the varietal and or style? This is a classic and modern married style. It has vibrant hints of fresh guava and grass on the nose. In the mouth you can feel the focus and concentration. There is a touch of mineral saltiness at the finish. Great length and well balanced.
Do you have a preference for new world or old world wines? No, as long as it’s good, it’s fine with me.
40 °
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Baron Edmond de Rothschild WINE ESTATES
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he wine tradition in the French branch of the Rothschild family was born in 1868 with the purchase of Château Lafite by James de Rothschild. After more than a century of family history linked to the world of wine, Baron Edmond de Rothschild (great-grandson of James) extended this family tradition in 1973 by acquiring two Listrac and Moulis Crus Bourgeois in Médoc: Château Clarke and Château Malmaison. He then created the Compagnie Vinicole Baron Edmond de Rothschild. Under a watchful eye, the estates were restored, the vines were replanted and the company was modernised and expanded while retaining a familial aspect. Over time, Compagnie Vinicole Baron Edmond de Rothschild has opened up to the world through an association with the Rupert family in South Africa. Their shared passion gave rise to the “Rupert & Rothschild Vignerons” wine cellar at the foot of the magnificent Simonsberg Mountain. In 1999, Compagnie Vinicole Baron Edmond de Rothschild bought 250 ha in Argentina at the base of the Andes to produce “Flechas de los Andes” wines with Mr Laurent Dassault. In the Bordeaux region, Baron Benjamin de Rothschild acquired the superb property at Château des Laurets in 2003 seeking to develop the full potential of this vineyard straddling two AOCs: Puisseguin Saint-Émilion and Montagne Saint-Émilion. After significant renovation work, the estate now boasts modern, highperformance facilities. More recently, in New Zealand, the acquisition of 26 ha of grapevines at the heart of the Marlborough valley has yielded Rimapere, an outstanding Sauvignon Blanc.
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Baron Benjamin de Rothschild and his wife Ariane continue to produce high-quality wines with exacting standards, when it comes to both the choice of new terroirs and each stage of vinification. RIMAPERE In Maori, Rimapere means “five arrows”, the emblem of the Rothschild family which represents the five brothers who forged this dynasty of entrepreneurs. Rimapere is a partnership between Baron Benjamin de Rothschild (Bodega Flechas de los Andes, Rupert & Rothschild) and Mr Terry Peabody (Craggy Range winery). The Rimapere vineyard occupies 26 hectares of grapevines acquired in 2012 by Baron Benjamin de Rothschild. The vineyard is ideally located on the prestigious site of Rapaura in the heart of Marlborough. The fresh climate of this region is conductive to producing Sauvignon Blanc of excellent quality, giving these grapes a certain freshness tied to good acidity and the typical lemon and tropical fruits flavors while enhancing its finesse and elegance.
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DWA T25 SomHK pp42-43 RIMAPERE.indd 42
5/21/2014 1:26:06 PM
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What is your wine background where have you worked and for whom did you work? I started my hotelier career at the Sheraton then went on to Amber, the Landmark Mandarin, Nobu, Whisk, The Central Wine Club and Il Milione. A few key people inspired me as a Sommelier, Mr. Sebastian Chevalier at Amber, Mr. Alan Tsui when I was working in Sheraton and Mr. Michele Pompei, in Il Milione. When and how did you fall in love with wine? I started to love drinking wine since working at the Sheraton Hotel Hong Kong. I was a junior waiter and my captain introduced me to drinking wine and just how to appreciate it. Then I had a chance to become a wine steward there and started to learn more about wine. You oversee a large bottle wine list. How often do you manage to touch base and re-taste your wines? Except the sample tastings, I organize wine tasting based on my wine list with my team bi-weekly. The master wine list is revised half yearly. Do you have a preference for new world or old world wines? I choose wine to drink depending on the occasion, but I do have preference on grapes: chardonnay, pinot noir, riesling, albino and sangiovese. If you, personally, could make your own wine and make it anywhere in the world, where would that be and what wine would you make? I would love to make wines in China, because I am
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Chinese and I think the quality of Chinese wine still has a lot of room to improve. Both white and red wines will be made and I would like to produce some quality Eau-du-Vie. WINE REVIEW Tell us what you like about the wine you have been asked to review? Lovely pale yellow color with pronounced citrus, grapefruit, kiwi, and green apple aroma, follow by some quince, honey and flint bouquet. On the palate, lime, melon, figs, pleasant acidity with some saffron, mineral aftertaste and slightly oaky. Well structured, good enough to drink now but could be aged for 3-5 years. What would you pair it with food or occasions? For food, I will go with salmon tartare with avocado and King Crab meat, pan-seared scallop with chestnut milk foam, roasted chicken with herbs and garlic oil or sautéed clams with chili black bean sauce. Or drink it in summer time at pool side. What do like about the region it’s from? Grave, a beautiful sub-region from Medoc where they particularly love their dry white wines. Gravelly soils benefit many grape varieties and the quartz deposits found are still very important to some serious Chateau. What do you like about the varietal and or style? Always complex, floral, nice mineral, and with aging potential. Both good for drinking young and aged. Combination of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc is always a safe bet but surprises me quite often.
taka DRINKS WORLD ASIA
DWA T25 SomHK pp44-45 TAKA TAM.indd 44
5/19/2014 7:04:21 PM
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aka is a sprightly and vivacious Sommelier in Hong Kong. With a love and affection for his home roots, he is strongly dedicated to enhancing the wine culture in both China and Hong Kong with his unique attitude ad expertise.
tam
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5/19/2014 7:04:22 PM
Château
Villa Bel-Air
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hâteau Villa Bel-Air is located in the Southern part of Graves, in the parish of Saint-Morillon, near La Brède. Villa Bel-Air’s buildings have been listed as part of France’s historical monuments and are a perfect illustration of the French Revolution period. In 1988, the Cazes family, already owners of Châteaux Lynch-Bages and Les Ormes de Pez, bought Villa Bel-Air. Jean-Michel Cazes undertook an important programme of restoration and enlisted Daniel Llose (General Technical Manager for the Cazes family) and Guy Delestrac to improve the vineyards. The old parcels of land, which had been pulled out, were replanted and the property was equipped with a new drainage system. The production at Villa Bel-Air is done with great care and the wines are traditionally fermented in stainless steel. After blending, the wines are oak aged for 12 to 15 months and each barrel is racked every three months. The wines produced are supple, elegant, well balanced and display luscious tannins.
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DWA T25 SomHK pp46-47 CHATEAU VILLA BEL-AIR.indd 46
5/20/2014 11:46:41 AM
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5/20/2014 11:46:42 AM
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ommelier at NOBU InterContinental Hong Kong, Roy Chu has worked in the food and beverage industry for over ten years, with a string of highly renowned restaurants to his name. He is highly intuitive when it comes to guests preferences and tastes and the majority of joy he receives from being a Sommelier, is seeing a guest well satisfied.
Tell us a little bit about your history with wine. I joined the team at NOBU InterContinental Hong Kong in March 2012. Prior to that, I was assistant Sommelier at the 2-Michelin star SPOON by Alain Ducasse at InterContinental Hong Kong. I have worked at other top hotels and restaurants in Hong Kong, with previous positions at the Michelin-starred Petrus at the Island Shangri-la, where I started as a wine waiter and then became a Sommelier. When and how did you fall in love with wine? In the beginning, I started to learn about wine because I thought it would help me to develop my career in the hospitality industry. However, when I started tasting wine professionally, I then became attracted to the wine industry. I am fascinated by the process of wine tasting as it relates to the various senses – from colour and aroma / bouquet to the different tastes when we pair wine with different types of food. This is how I found my passion and decided to pursue a career as a Sommelier. What has been your biggest satisfaction from being a Sommelier? As a Sommelier, I find it satisfying when guests enjoy wine I have recommended, especially when the wine is not a well known brand or from a well known region. The guest has to trust me in to order to try something he/she does not know. I also love being able to taste wine from the diverse wine regions around the world. What is the most challenging situation you’ve been in or request you’ve received as a Sommelier? I remember one time when a guest ordered a bottle of wine and said there was something wrong with it. After I decanted the wine and adjusted its temperature, I then served it again to the guest. He was surprised that the same bottle could taste so differently. If you could pass just one thing on to someone looking to become a Sommelier, what would it be? Being a sommelier, not only requires knowledge, but you must also work with your heart. As a Sommelier, you are not only a salesman in a restaurant, but you also need to know about food, as well as wine. A
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Sommelier should also be up on trends and have excellent guest relations skills – listening to guests’ preferences and knowing what occasions they are celebrating. This helps greatly in providing guests with wine recommendations. WINE REVIEW Tell us what you like about Bellingham Bernard Series Chenin Blanc 2013? The wine has a yellow colour without any sediment, which shows it is in very good condition. On the nose, it carries a beautiful lemon drop / lime bouquet. Its breath is around 30 seconds, with more and more aromas coming up, such as gooseberry, peach and some mineral flavours. After two more minutes, with more air getting into the wine, we then have some aromas of vanilla and roasted nuts. I believe this is from the barrel. On the palate, we find a similar taste as the nose, with some sweet herb and almond flavors. From amongst the many flavors, the acidity provides balance. It is a medium to full bodied white wine with a very long finish. At the end you can taste some sweetness on the tongue. I recommend serving it at 14 ~ 16 degrees Celsius in a burgundy glass. How would you pair it? This wine can go well with grilled seafood in a creamy sauce, grilled chicken, Caesar salad, or a simple salad with vinegar. If you don’t want to serve it with a meal, you still can enjoy this wine as a before dinner drink, but I would then recommend serving some nuts to go with it. What do like about the region it’s from? In this region, no matter white or red, all the wines are presentable and most can be found for a reasonable price. However, for my personal taste, I like the Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc more than the others. What do you like about the varietal and or style? Chenin Blanc is one of my favorite grape varietals. It has high acidity and minerals in the wine. While this does not make pairing it with food easy, it does give the wine life.
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DWA T25 SomHK pp48-49 ROY CHU.indd 48
5/19/2014 7:05:57 PM
chu
roy
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5/19/2014 7:05:59 PM
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ellingham Wines represent visionary, innovative, engaging wine brands, with stories that are real, relevant and authentic for the modern wine consumer. These distinctive wines each with authentic style and character possess a rare degree of excellence. The Bernard Series pays tribute to its celebrated founder, Bernard Podlashuk whose visionary approach and bold risks helped shape the course of South African wine. This boutique series is thoroughly contemporary, elaborately intricate and unusual in some aspect, with a compelling individualistic, sometimes irreverent, but always fascinating character.
Raking in the medals: 2014 Since the Bernard Series launched in 2009 it has already set an extraordinary track record of awards: • Securing a place in the Top 100 SA Wines 2013 were Grenache Blanc Viognier 2012, Small Barrel SMV 2012 and Basket Press Syrah 2012. • At the Decanter World Wine Award 2013 Bush Vine Pinotage 2011 and Grenache Blanc Viognier 2012 won Silver awards. • At the Decanter World Wine Award 2013 Hand-Picked Viognier 2012 and Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2012 won Bronze awards.
Winemaker, Niël Groenewald Niël Groenewald is larger than life by almost all accounts. His great physical stature is rivalled only by his visceral passion for his craft as Bellingham’s Chief Winemaker since 2004. His strategic business acumen and stringent detailed winemaking is tangible in the innovation and stylistic spectrum of his multi-award winning wines under The Bernard Series label. With an Honours degree in Oenology from Stellenbosch University and in the final year of an Executive MBA from UCT Graduate school of Business, Niël could be called the ‘brains behind the bottle’. His tactical approach to traditional practices belies his awesome vision that is translated into his wines by his measured modern methodology and fearless entrepreneurial approach. Niël makes a big impression all over the world with his engaging warmth, obvious passion and natural ability to educate and excite customers and consumers not only about Bellingham, but South African wine in general.
Under the spotlight: “Old Vine” Chenin Blanc 2012 The even ripening and outstanding flavour intensity expressed in this vintage of high altitude old bush vine vineyards compelled our winemaker to craft this unique barrel matured Chenin Blanc. In true Bernard nature these vineyards were discovered and earmarked only for the best. Distinctively bold and lavishly perfumed with intriguing layers of tropical fruit, peaches and cream perfectly completed by seamlessly integrated vanilla oak spice. Winemaker tasting notes: A luminescent gold wine with rambunctious fleshy peach, passion fruit, honey melon, papaya and pineapple fruit aromas layered with whiffs of oatmeal and crushed wheat that follow through with lavish concentrated fruit flavours from the nose – powerful yet accommodating on the palate with discernable yet seamless and subtle spicy oak complexity. The riveting finish is fresh and intense with tremendous length making it a great wine for enjoyment with food.
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DWA T25 SomHK pp50-51 BERNARD BELLINGHAM 02.indd 50
5/19/2014 7:06:54 PM
Handcrafted wines from the
finest vineyards in
South Africa
www.thebernardseries.com
Betsy Haynes: betsyhaynes@northeast.com.hk Dean Aslin: deanaslin@northeast.com.hk Tel: +852 2873 5733
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DWA T25 SomHK pp50-51 BERNARD BELLINGHAM 02.indd 51
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52 째
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DWA T25 SomHK pp52-53 CREASH WONG.indd 52
5/19/2014 7:07:34 PM
Tell us when you knew you were going to be a Sommelier? In 2004, I worked at the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club and this is when I new I wanted to be a Sommelier. What has been your biggest satisfaction as a Sommelier? In 2000, I joined the Sommelier Competition for the first time and was awarded First Runner-Up. What type of training or experience prepared you to become a Sommelier? I was working on the floor of a fine dining restaurant where I could taste and touch a lot of kinds of wines. Then I joined the Sommelier Competition every year and learnt from the best Sommeliers in Hong Kong as you go through the tasting, nosing, service challenge, food and wine matching challenge. What is the most challenging situation you’ve been in or request you’ve received as a Sommelier? Most challenging always is you must always review your knowledge in the market, wines and beverage every time, because you need to update all the information and to be well prepared to face all the customer’s questions! If you weren’t a Sommelier and could do anything, what would you be doing? Restaurant Manager or Food & Beverage Manager.
Tell us about La Crema Chardonnay – Sonama Coast 2012? The 2012 vintage opens with bright aromas of lemon and hints of lime, and the palate contains a lot of flavors: summer fruits with lively citrus notes. Slightly oaky and there’s a lingering baking spice adding richness and texture to the medium to long freshly finishing. How would you pair it in terms of food and occasion? With a summer salad with raw seafood for starter, and it also works as a really good matching with pan fried sea fish with bone. This chardonnay has a slightly oaky flavor and lively acidity so it can balance the fatty fish’s oil and bring out a lot of fruitiness! What do like about the region it’s from? This Sonoma Coast Chardonnay was selected from a cool climate region, similar to the Burgundy region of France. The vineyards offer an unusually long, cool and even growing season, where Chardonnay is beautifully aromatic, citrus-laced and layered. What do you like about the varietal and or style? This variety achieves rich layers and complex, intense aromatics in the glass and palate. The palate is round and nutty, with well-balanced acidity, adding additional layers of spice, texture and vanilla. The style is good for different occasions, and can work between starter and main with seafood and white meat dishes. You can also often go with a Chinese cuisine pairing.
w enses to gro s e th ll a g , utilisin spent d observing over night, with time n a g in rn es a le when it com n’t happen constantly s e e is c o n t d a e ri th is e p n th x o t whole e is a pers food. Bu outs to the reash Wong nowledge of wine and d n a s in e tk nows th his now vas or, Creash k o fl g in in d fine ect wine. working the stomers with the perf cu to providing
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h s a e cr g
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DWA T25 SomHK pp52-53 CREASH WONG.indd 53
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LA CREMA Sonoma Coast 2012 Chardonnay Beautifully aromatic, citrus-laced and layered. “The 2007 release of our Sonoma Coast Chardonnay bursts with vivid citrus and fresh green apple aromas, laced with subtle notes of honeysuckle and clove. On the palate, flavors broaden into rich spiced apple and crisp lime zest, with vanilla and caramel tones adding richness and texture on the finish.” - Melissa Stackhouse, Winemaker THE SERIES: SONOMA COAST Since 1979, La Crema has crafted the traditional wine varietals of Burgundy in the cool vineyards of the Sonoma Coast. This coastal region’s boundary begins at the Mendocino County border, continues along the western coastal edge of Sonoma County through the mouth of the Russian River Valley, and extends to the Los Carneros region on the southern Sonoma/ Napa border. Our Sonoma Coast wines are a salute to the tremendously fresh, concentrated and layered palette of flavors offered by these coastal vineyards. Crafted one barrel at a time at our family-owned winery, Sonoma Coast wines offer exceptional balance and fruit intensity. THE PLACE: SONOMA COAST Like the Burgundy wine region of France, the vineyards of Sonoma Coast offer an unusually long, cool and even growing season. Lingering fog and wind from the nearby Pacific Ocean (or, in Los Carneros’ case, the San Pablo Bay), moderate temperatures throughout the growing season and slow the ripening process. With an extended “hang” time on the vines, the results at harvest are small berries with firm acidity and highly concentrated varietal aromas and flavors. THE VINTAGE: 2007 The 2007 vintage was cool from start to finish. Below average temperatures, 40% less rainfall and an early budbreak caused a lighter set in the vineyards, reducing the overall crop size by 15%. When the veraison ripening process began in late July, fruit expressed the potential for character and distinction. Foggy mornings and
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evenings provided excellent ripening weather as harvest approached. Overall, flavor profiles for this vintage are exceptional. THE TECHNIQUE: ARTISAN - FROM START TO FINISH Chardonnay for this release is selected from cool vineyard sites within the Sonoma Coast boundaries – all within 25 miles of the Pacific Ocean. We use a variety of clones to achieve rich layers and complex, intense aromatics. To ensure the clusters have minimal damage, fruit is picked in the cool, early morning – the grapes arriving within hours at the winery in small, halfton bins. As the fruit glides off on a belt delivery system, we carefully remove inferior clusters, stray leaves and bits of debris. After a whole cluster press to preserve the intense fresh fruit character of the grapes, the juice was fermented 90% in barrel and 10% in stainless steel. To add a rich, creamy quality, 90% of the wine underwent a secondary malolactic fermentation that changes strong malic acids into softer, round lactic acids. The wine was aged on the lees for 7 months in primarily French oak (25% new). Toast levels of the barrels ranged from medium to medium plus, adding engaging layers of spice, texture and vanilla. During barrel aging, the lees were stirred every three weeks to enhance the creamy, round character of the wine. THE STATS: Appellation: Sonoma Coast Composition: 100% Chardonnay Type of Oak: 87% French (25% new) 13% American (5% new) medium to medium-plus toast levels Time in Barrel: 7 months Alcohol: 13.9% T.A.: 0.59g / 100mL pH: 3.58 R.S.: 0.14% Clonal Selection: Clone 4, Dijon, Robert Young, Rued and 809
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DWA T25 SomHK pp54-55 LA CREMA.indd 54
5/19/2014 7:08:59 PM
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DWA T25 SomHK pp54-55 LA CREMA.indd 55
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terence T
wong
erence Wong of L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon holds a very high attention to detail when it comes to choosing wine. He believes that every Sommelier should specifically know about temperature control and it’s importance in terms of taste and guest satisfaction.
What is your wine background where have you worked and for whom did you work? I started working as a Sommelier at NOBU, Intercontinental Hong Kong in 2008. It’s a new style Japanese cuisine that’s famous all over the world. From there I went to work at L’atelier de Joel Robuchon as a Sommelier in 2011 to present, it is the only French restaurant with three Michelin stars in Hong Kong. Now, I oversee over 3200 wine labels and a large percentage of our wine is fine wine and holds over 90 points from Robert Parker and Wine Spectator. When and how did you fall in love with wine? I’ve always loved trying different kinds of cuisines since I was young. My passion to work in this industry has come from talking with others and finding out that food and wine have special elements that can make people happy and build up a friendship or relationship. I also really love geography, which is a large part of wine study. You oversee a large bottle wine list. How often do you manage to touch base and re-taste your wines? I keep updating my wine list every day. Lisboa Food and Wines Ltd (my restaurant group) has over 15000 wine labels to support my restaurant. Once items sell out, I can replace it quickly. I also make sure my guests can taste and try a lot of new wine items. I keep on re-tasting the wines every few months so I can see the development of the wine and make sure it is under good condition. What is the most challenging situation you’ve been in or request you’ve received as a Sommelier? I would say it’s temperature control. One guest requested to drink the Montrachet DRC 1990 at 14 degrees. He wished to drink the wine within that temperature in every single glass. If you could pass just one thing on to someone looking to become a Sommelier, what would it be? I would say it’s temperature control. Nowadays, a lot of wine lovers or Sommeliers do not know much about wine serving temperature. Temperature is the best way for wine to present the aroma and bouquet to the guest. If the wine is too cold, it
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loses flavor. On the other hand, it will be different to drink if it’s too warm, because the alcohol nose is much more present. WINE REVIEW Tell us what you like about Domaine Drouhin Chardonnay Cuvee Arthur 2011? It has a pale yellow colour with a touch of green tints and the wine has tears, which move down fast showing me the wine has a good acidity structure. The nose is clear, dominated with lemon custard, grapefruit marmalade, green apple and pear. The bouquet has a touch of smoky, steel mineral. It has a full dryness, with fruitiness based in citrus fruit and a lively acidity to finish. It has some lemon peel, white flower and striking mineral aftertaste. How would you pair it? I recommend poached white asparagus with hollandaise sauce. The wine body matches well with the sauce and the lively acidity gives freshness to the asparagus. If pairing for Chinese cuisine, go with sautéed king prawns with salted egg yolks. The wine body can match the texture of the prawns, and the fruitiness to balance the salty flavor, while the mineral and acidity will enhance the freshness of the prawns. If pairing with cheese I will recommend a triple-cream cheese BrillantSavarin. What do like about the region it’s from? It is a cool climate area that gives grapes a lively acidity. I would say Oregon is a bit like a burgundy area which is good for pinot noir and chardonnay. It has good potential for ageing well. What do you like about the varietal and or style? This wine is a bit similar to the Chablis Grand cru style. It has a beautiful acidity, mature green fruit with a striking mineral. The wine is very balanced on the acidity, fruitiness and body. It should be aged well in 4-5 years. I would recommend to drink this wine at about 12-14 degrees, and use the chardonnay glass to taste it. It can be decanted one hour prior.
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DWA T25 SomHK pp56-57 TERENCE WONG.indd 56
5/19/2014 7:10:26 PM
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DWA T25 SomHK pp56-57 TERENCE WONG.indd 57
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5/19/2014 7:10:28 PM
Domaine Drouhin
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urgundian soul meets American soil at Domaine Drouhin, the leading Oregon Pinot Noir producer run by Véronique Drouhin. At the very heart of Domaine Drouhin’s Oregon 225-acre estate are the 85 acres of hillside vineyards in Oregon’s Red Hills, which produce two acclaimed Pinot Noirs cuveés and a very limited amount of Chardonnay. These vineyards share a nearly identical climate, latitude and aspect with their counterparts in France.
The first vines were planted in 1988, and now Domain Drouhin has 72 acres of Pinot Noir and 13 acres of Chardonnay. The Pinot Noir and Chardonnay plantings are a mixture of assorted Dijon clones grafted onto a variety of rootstocks. Each vine produces approximately 3/4 of a bottle of wine! The best Pinot Noir barrels are saved for the Cuvée Laurène, a wine which will grow in depth and complexity with up to 10 year’s cellaring. More recently the Drouhins have produced a limited amount of tasty-rather-than toasty Chardonnay; again to significant critical acclaim.
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DWA T25 SomHK pp58-59 DOMAINE DROUHIN.indd 58
5/19/2014 7:11:19 PM
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5/19/2014 7:11:21 PM
lee
watson
M
oving from supply side, to education, and finally to front and centre, Lee Watson is a Sommelier who not only knows his wines but also is very well versed on the process and production of the entire wine experience. Here he tells us a little bit about his background and love for wine. Tell us a bit about your history working with wine? I was working for a wine supplier for three and a half years and then worked as a wine educator for one year teaching WSET levels 1 and 2. I had my first Sommelier position at Mira Hotel in TST and now I have been the head Sommelier at a 5 star Hotel in Hong Kong for over a year. At what moment did you know you wanted to be a Sommelier? I thought about being a Sommelier since I started teaching WSET, but never thought I actually would be able to take up this position. Now, here I am. What has been your biggest satisfaction from being a Sommelier? At the end of the day, it’s a job to make money and I am satisfied that I can earn a living with wine. But I never forget that it’s a job and I’m here to satisfy the guest more than myself. What is the most challenging situation you’ve been in or request you’ve received as a Sommelier? I have never had a really challenging situation as
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yet, but every day is a challenge, making sure the menu is updated, making sure we have enough stock, making sure the wine is at the right temperature etc. I’ve never had a strange request either. If you could pass just one thing on to someone looking to become a Sommelier, what would it be? Remember, it’s a job and like every job you have to work hard to achieve something. If you like wine then it can make your job much more pleasurable. Don’t think of being a Sommelier if you think it’s glamour and glitz, it should never be about you, it’s always about the guest. WINE REVIEW What appeals to you about the 2008 Winemaker’s Selection Vat 1 Hunter Semillon? The wine has a fresh delicate nose of lemon peel, green apple and yellow pear with hints of perfume and chalky minerals. The palate is a light steely dry character of fresh lemon juice and all the characters of the nose follow through with a medium length.
How would you pair it? Stick to seafood and particularly with this young wine go for oysters and all types of shellfish, which will match perfectly. What is special about the region it’s from? This region is great as it’s not like your regular new world region. Year on year the vintages are never the same, making it very unpredictable like Burgundy, so we can enjoy quite different Semillons every year. What do you like about the varietal and or style? The style is much lighter than the 2007 and is ready now if you like your Semillon vibrant and fresh. You can also wait a year or two and it will soften down I’m sure. This wine can age a long time, well over 10 years or so, so don’t worry if you buy a case and take your time to consume it. They are austere when young, but will soften. The acidity can be very vibrant and the 2008 is fantastic and steely. It’s like licking the knife you just cut a fresh lemon with. Don’t forget this wine is around 11% ABV and dry, so it’s great to have with lunch.
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DWA T25 SomHK pp60-61 LEE WATSON.indd 60
5/19/2014 7:12:36 PM
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DWA T25 SomHK pp60-61 LEE WATSON.indd 61
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5/19/2014 7:12:37 PM
Bruce
Tyrrell Our Philosophy: My great grandfather arrived in Pokolbin in 1858 and took up a concessional allotment of 320 acres. This marks the start of over 150 years of the Tyrrell’s being a constant in both the Hunter Valley and Australian wine industries. The motto he brought with him from England “nothing is great unless it is good”, remains as a guiding beacon of what we have been, what we are and what we will be in the future. The past 50 years has been an era of growth and innovation. We have purchased, or leased many of the great vineyard blocks of the Hunter, introduced chardonnay and pinot noir to the modern Australian wine industry and have been lucky enough to work with Hunter semillon - one of the truly unique wines of the world. Hunter semillon has been the obsession of my generation and it is wonderful to now see international acceptance of the greatness and unique quality of this wine. When I joined the business full time in 1974, we were a small winery with 95% of the business being at Cellar Door and having made about three export sales; one each to the USA, UK and Sweden. Today, we are a medium sized family business with vineyards in the Hunter Valley, Limestone Coast and Heathcote, and export to more than 40 countries around the world including all the major markets in Asia. The two great developments of the last 20 years have been the selection of the land for our vineyard in Heathcote in Victoria; an area which, I believe, will join the front rank of great quality region in Australia. In the past four years, we have identified the six vineyard blocks that we have which are greater than 100 years old and when the quality was good enough, produced and bottled them as stand alone wines. These are amongst the rarest vineyards in the world. It is the wish of the current generation that the family goes on for at least another 150 years. Without family business our economy would lack length of vision for the future and the long term commitment to quality and innovation. We are proud to be a member of the Australia’s First Families of Wine as we all share the same long term vision of the Australian wine industry. Our Wines: The Tyrrell’s Wines portfolio has a vast array of wine styles and varietals to suit every palate, from our iconic Winemaker’s Selection range sourced from our own premium vineyards in the Hunter Valley to our Lost Block and Old Winery ranges, sourced from some of Australia’s best know wine regions including Heathcote, Adelaide Hills, McLaren Vale and the Limestone Coast. To date Tyrrell’s has received over 5,400 trophies and medals from various international and domestic wine shows. Over the years our portfolio has extended to include wines from regions outside of our own, including the Nelson and Marlborough regions of New Zealand, Bordeaux in France and the upper Douro Valley in Portugal.
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5/19/2014 7:13:29 PM
Vat 1 Semillon - an iconic Australian wine
The Wine
The Family Tyrrell’s is one of Australia’s oldest family owned wineries and a founding member of Australia’s First Family of Wine. Started in 1858 and now a 5th generation wine company, Tyrrell’s are known for their quality handcrafted wines from exceptional vineyards.
Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon is the most awarded white wine in Australia with:
136 trophies 419 gold medals 242 silver medals 319 bronze medals
www.tyrrells.com.au DRINKS WORLD ASIA
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5/19/2014 7:13:30 PM
yohann
jousselin M
uch of a wine guru and young prodigy, Yohann started working in wine at a very young age. He has met the Queen of England, was awarded UK’s Young Best Sommelier and World Young Best Sommelier in 2009, UK’s Best Sommelier 2011 and achieved his Master Sommelier title in 2009. He now works with Island Shangri-La as Hotel Sommelier. How did you get into the world of wine? I started in the industry at the age of 16 working in my uncle’s restaurant in the Loire Valley, France. A year later, I enrolled myself in a hospitality, restaurant and wine school program for two years. I worked as a Sommelier in United Kingdom for establishments such as Hotel du Vin, Gordon Ramsay and the Vineyard at Stockcross. During those times, I was very fortunate to have worked with renowned wine experts including Gerard Basset who is a Master Sommelier, Master of Wine, OBE and World Best Sommelier in 2010 and many others. Apart from that, I have won awards such as Best UK Wine Restaurant Program in 2012 and the Best UK Wine List in 2012. After working in UK for 10 years, I decided to venture to a new adventure and experience in Asia to widen my horizon. I moved last year to Macau to work for Joel Robuchon, a Michelin three-star restaurant and now with Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong as a Hotel Sommelier. How did you know you were going to be a sommelier? I really enjoyed the role of a Sommelier back when I was still in wine school in France. When I moved to the UK, I was thoroughly impressed with the skills and knowledge of the Sommeliers I met, they inspired me to work hard in order to become somebody like them one day. You oversee a large bottle wine list. How often do you manage to touch base and re-taste your wines? Having eight different restaurants in the hotel helps us have a good turn over for our wines. Our wine selection by the glass is often changed in order to suit our menus, which allows me to taste most of what we have on offer. Internally, we also organise wine tasting for the team on a weekly basis. How do you compile your wine list? I believe in creating a balanced wine list and this is reflective on all the wine lists that I have worked with. For me, a complete wine list should represent every style, country of
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production and have the attractiveness for every palate and budget. What has been your biggest satisfaction from being a sommelier? I think it would be when I was invited a few years ago to Buckingham Palace for a ceremony in the presence of the Queen of England. The event was to reward talents of UK hospitality and I was invited as a rising star in the hospitality industry. This was a very exciting moment in my career. WINE REVIEW Tell us what you like about Robert Mondavi Fume Blanc 2011 – Oakville Napa Valley? It is a lovely and intense white wine with notes of ripe citrus aromas, such as confit lemon zest followed by notes of vanilla and a hint of butter. This wine is round and elegant and is great to pair with dishes or to have on its own before dinner. What would you pair it with food or occasions? I would match this wine with dishes such as poached white asparagus served with citrus mousseline sauce or dover sole with lemon thyme sage and green peas. What do like about the region it’s from? Napa is a great wine region which produces a number of exceptional wines with a lot of diversity. This wine is from Oakville, which is often regarded as the best wine area of Napa. What do you like about the varietal and or style? Sauvignon blanc is now widely produced in most wine countries and made in many different styles from dry to sweet. I am a great fan of sauvignon blanc aged in barrel, especially the wines from Bordeaux and Napa Valley.
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DWA T25 SomHK pp64-65 YOHANN JOUSSELIN b.indd 64
5/19/2014 7:14:02 PM
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DWA T25 SomHK pp64-65 YOHANN JOUSSELIN b.indd 65
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5/19/2014 7:14:03 PM
Robert Mondavi Winery
F
or almost five decades now, Robert Mondavi Winery has led California’s wine industry with innovations in winegrowing and winemaking, as well as educational and cultural outreach. And the vision of its founder Robert Mondavi, who passed away in 2008, at the age of 94, continues to inspire the winery and vineyard teams. The cultural and culinary arts programs at Robert Mondavi Winery have become a showplace for artists, musicians and the great chefs of the world. “Like visual arts and music, wine and food speak to the heart,” says Margrit Biever Mondavi, the visionary behind the winery’s Cultural Affairs department. “By honoring the world of the senses, of memory and emotions, fine art and the rites of the table express our humanity.” Since the winery opened in 1966, its private dining room, the Vineyard Room, has emphasized simple, flavorful recipes made from the freshest seasonal ingredients. In 1976, Margrit introduced cooking classes based on this culinary style. The bi-annual Great Chefs at Robert Mondavi Winery series has featured Paul Bocuse, Jean Troisgros Jacques Pepin, Julia Child and Alice Waters, among many others., This groundbreaking program influenced many top restaurants and wineries to elevate
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their food and wine experiences. In Asia, Robert Mondavi Winery has partnered with Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants since its inception two years ago. Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list is an annual snapshot of the opinions and experiences of over 900 international restaurant industry experts as to the hottest venues to dine across the region. “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards ceremony brings together the region’s most eminent chefs, influential restaurateurs and industry figures once a year to recognise the accomplishments of the industry,” says Jake Jacob, Vice President, Asia, Constellation Brands – the custodian of Robert Mondavi Winery, at the Awards ceremony held in Singapore last March. “The List becomes a reference point for foodies from the entire region; and we are honoured to be a part of such an initative that encourages the same philosophies
as Robert Mondavi Winery – innovation, excellence and passion. Just as important, however, is that such partnerships help the evolvement of our wine culture – that of bringing people together, through wine, food and cheer.” Margit Mondavi, wife of Robert and current VP of Cultural Affairs for Robert Mondavi Winery further explained: “wine is a communicator and brings people together, it brings joy and longevity and can be attributed to the wine lifestyle. With wine you create an atmosphere, it’s something to celebrate – you don’t celebrate anything with coffee!! Wine helps the spirit – it’s good for the heart.” Robert Mondavi established his namesake winery in 1966 with a vision to create Napa Valley wines that would stand in the company of the world’s finest. He chose To Kalon Vineyard in the heart of the Napa Valley as the home for Robert Mondavi Winery. This first-growth vineyard, located in
Oakville, California, is renowned for producing some of the finest Cabernet Sauvignon wines in the world, as well as for its Sauvignon Blanc grapes, from which Mr. Mondavi crafted his signature wine, Fumé Blanc. Mr. Mondavi believed that wines should reflect their origins, that they are the product of the soil, the climate, and the careful stewardship of those precious resources. He also believed in combining the newest techniques and technology with time-honored winemaking traditions. Today, the winemaking and vineyard teams are proud to carry on Mondavi’s mandate for excellence, and always strive higher with the same passion and innovative spirit, leading this initiative is Genevieve Janssens, Director of Winemaking. Genevieve, whose relationship with the winery began in 1978, and was selected Winemaker of the Year by Wine Enthusiast in 2010.
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5/21/2014 1:25:56 PM
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5/21/2014 1:25:56 PM
yvonne
cheung T
here are no limits to Yvonne Cheung’s style of hospitality, head sommelier at Cafe Gray Deluxe, Upper House. Notorious and chic, the Californian born sommelier is known for her attention to detail and ambitions to shape the wine culture across the asian food and beverage landscape.
Tell us a bit about your background in wine? My wine background is pretty straightforward – everything from regional dialects, to family history, to Jurassic soils, to the Krebs cycle compels me to keep learning. On top of all that, I love food, company, wine, and the fact that these components together are greater than the sum of their parts. Actually, I worked nearly every position in a restaurant from dishwasher to line cook to server to manager to sommelier. I have worked in Los Angeles, Hong Kong, Nantucket, Napa Valley, and Hong Kong (again), in that order. All amazing experiences that helped shape my motivation and work ethic. When did you know you were going to be a sommelier? I knew I wanted to work in and with wine since my first hotel job in Beverly Hills when I was 20, but the sommelier career took on a more substantial form when I decided a bit apprehensively to take a job right in the heart of wine country five years later. My dear friend and mentor from New York had helped fuel my spark and passion for the wine universe and gave me confidence to pursue something completely out of the box of what I and my family ever expected me to do.
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What has been your biggest satisfaction from being a sommelier? Sharing “ah ha!” moments with guests, coworkers and friends. The greatest satisfaction has been the tremendous community enrichment that comes with being involved in wine; the exciting people and ideas, as well as the practical aspects of business and management. What is the most challenging situation you’ve been in or request you’ve received as a sommelier? Not sure I have a “most challenging” situation, but the one that surprised me the most was when someone asked me for a white zinfandel on ice with two packets of equal, in a rocks glass. If you could pass just one thing on to someone looking to become a sommelier, what would it be? If you want it, go and get it. It is advice I keep reminding myself to follow. Everything else will present itself as an opportunity once you decide you want to go and work for it: mentorship, epiphanies, friendships, education, and yes, phenomenal bottles and blurry memories to last for a lifetime.
WINE REVIEW Tell us about Robert Mondavi Napa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 The wines of Mondavi speak to a legacy that shaped not only the California wine industry, but that of the US. What would you pair it with food or occasions? This would be lovely with Wu Xi style crispy eel! What do like about the region it’s from? Napa is a beautiful slice of the earth; I have many great memories from my time there. There are truly fantastic, dedicated people making equally fantastic and dedicated wines. Like so many wine regions, many of these gems remain unknown outside the domestic or regional area. There is always more to explore. What do you like about the varietal and or style? I like the approachability and suppleness of this style of merlot. It’s not spectacularly complex or rare, but nor is it supposed to be. It is meant to procure pleasure, and pleasure there be!
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5/19/2014 7:15:50 PM
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5/19/2014 7:15:52 PM
kevin yung K
evin Yung has been with JW Marriot for 17 years now. He knows the customers, culture and wine preferences like nobody else in that establishment. He has truly carved a strong niche in customer retention.
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DWA T25 SomHK pp70-71 KEVIN YUNG.indd 70
5/19/2014 7:16:50 PM
What is your wine background, where have you worked and for whom did you work? l have been working at the JW Marriott for 17 years. During this time, l have worked in the Lobby bar, the Chinese restaurant and I now currently work in the Flint Grill & Bar. l started to certify as a Sommelier in 2008 and was promoted to the senior Sommelier level in 2013. I am also a committee member of the Hong Kong Sommelier Association (HKSA) since 2012. Tell us when you knew you were going to be a Sommelier? When l started to study in 2006 I met with my master who is now the President of HKSA Mr Nelson Chow. At that time, l began planning to become a Sommelier. Do you have a preference for new world or old world wines? I love both new world and old world wines, as they have their own character and flavor, which is a different style. Open and enjoy all wines, then you won’t miss out on any good wines from the new or old world. If you personally, could make your own wine and make it anywhere in the world, where would that be and what wine would you make? Absolutely in China. l would like to make some interesting, fashionable and cheerful wine to share with my friends, family and my love. If you weren’t a Sommelier, and could do anything, what would you be doing? I would hope to be a winemaker who makes good wines appreciated by other people. WINE REVIEW Tell us what you like about St Hugo, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010? This wine is made entirely by Cabernet Sauvignon coming from Australia’s best cabernet region, Coonawarra. First of all for the sight, it shows intense ruby with slight red hue, brilliant and transparent. Then on the nose emerges abundant blackcurrant candied, blackberry chutney blend with peppermint and black pepper, some spiciness such as licorice, nutmeg and a hint of roast hazelnut, toasty, coffee and dark chocolate. On the palate it is a full, bold wine style with a firm and chewy tannin, modest and well integrated acidity. At this moment, it is really youthful, nice to drink now, or could be well aged after 8-10 years. What would you pair it with food / occasions? I would like to recommend some heavy and strong dishes to match with St. Hugo such as veal osso buck or fatty steak. As the fat of the dishes can make the tannin soften and the acidity in the wine can cut through the fat and oil of the meat, cleansing up the mouth feeling. The blackcurrant and berry fruit compliments the meat flavor. What do like about the region it’s from? Coonawarra is one of my favorite regions. Its one of Australia’s finest wine regions and is ideal for producing great Cabernet Sauvignon. What do you like about the varietal and or style? St Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon is also one of my favorite wine styles.
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DWA T25 SomHK pp70-71 KEVIN YUNG.indd 71
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5/19/2014 7:16:52 PM
Chief Winemaker
SAM KURTZ F
ew people can celebrate the milestones along the road to the success of St Hugo like Sam Kurtz, who has been crafting the wines for over 15 years.
Sam Kurtz appreciates the importance of family legacy more than most, being the sixth generation of his family to remain living and working in the Barossa Valley. He is also the great-great-great grandson of Johann Gramp - the founder of the winery for which he now works. Sam’s strong lineage has certainly influenced the path his life has taken. “My father was a key influence in developing my passion for wine. I remember him making homemade wine with friends, me watching, assisting in picking and foot treading the grapes,” recalls Sam. “Both my grandfathers were grape growers. So as far back as I can remember, winemaking has been an integral part of my family’s way of life.” He initially planned to channel his energy into a civil engineering career, but it was not long before Sam was drawn into the intrigue of winemaking instead. While working one vintage as a cellar hand at a local winery, filling oak barrels with Cabernet Sauvignon, Sam finally realized his destiny was to work with grapes rather than buildings. He immersed himself in a degree in winemaking at Australia’s leading wine industry tertiary institution - Roseworthy Agricultural College - in South Australia and graduated in 1992. Developing the expertise he has today has taken Sam to the far corners of the globe. His career began in 1992 as an Assistant Winemaker
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in Griffith, New South Wales. He was hungry for more knowledge and over the next few years he seized learning opportunities as they came, working in the Sonoma Valley in California as well as taking a challenging winemaking assignment in Hungary. Sam returned to his hometown as White Winemaker for Pernod Ricard Winemakers’ Australian winery in 1993, then by 1997 he was at last able to pursue his vision to specialise in red wines as a Red Winemaker. One of his earliest responsibilities was to conduct all the vineyard assessments of Cabernet Sauvignon in the Coonawarra wine region during vintage. Fifteen years later, Sam is still doing the Coonawarra vineyard assessments and has an encyclopaedic knowledge of every block. “I have a soft spot in my heart for Cabernet Sauvignon especially from Coonawarra. I am not sure if that comes from doing the vineyard assessments every vintage, or if the reason I am still doing the assessments is because I love Coonawarra Cabernet,” muses Sam. Sam credits much of his know-how to his esteemed mentors within the company including Philip Laffer, David Morris and John Vickery. These pillars of Australian winemaking fostered Sam’s passion in the early years, teaching him the importance of wine style and passing on winemaking secrets, which he continues to pass on to his assistant winemakers. In the ensuing years, Sam’s talent for making red wine earned him successive promotions
and by 2000 he had responsibility for all the red wines made by the company’s Barossa based winery (formerly G. Gramp & Sons). “The pursuit of excellence is an obsession for me, especially in red winemaking. Each trophy rewarded our efforts and was a celebrated as a proud milestone on our road to success for St Hugo,” says Sam In 2012 he was officially given the title of Chief Winemaker of St Hugo, although Sam Kurtz has actually been crafting St Hugo wines for over 15 years. His impressive red winemaking expertise and extensive knowledge of two of the most famous red grape growing regions in Australia – Coonawarra and his home region of Barossa - have been integral to St Hugo wines being upheld for their outstanding quality over such a long period, as well as the direction of the new Barossa Shiraz and other wines in the range. Sam has begun sharing his comprehensive knowledge of local vineyard terroir with other winemakers, holding a series of sub-regional tastings of individual blocks. Following in the steps of Hugo Gramp, Sam Kurtz is also a respected wine judge having judged at various events on the Australian national wine show circuit. In fact it’s easy to see many of Hugo Gramp’s attributes reflected back in Sam, with power and elegance expressed simply through the quiet authority with which Sam speaks when talking about his own true passion – crafting exquisite red wine.
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DWA T25 SomHK pp72-73 ST HUGO.indd 72
5/19/2014 7:17:36 PM
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5/19/2014 7:17:37 PM
nigel
chan
What is your wine background where have you worked and for whom did you work? I fell in love with wine when I was studying in Paris as an undergraduate student. I started my career as a wine salesman in a well-known wine merchant right after my graduation. After a few years time I had a chance to work for the Mira hotel as a Sommelier. Not long after I was relocated to take care of The French Window and Cuisine Cuisine at IFC, Central. It was quite an experience to be able to work with different cuisines as the cliental and the food and wine pairing are so different. In 2011, I was hired by Hotel ICON as one of the pre-opening team members. I was responsible for drafting the hotel wine programs as well as of the staff wine training program. I left Hotel ICON in Dec 2011 and rejoined the company in April 2013 as Director of Wine. I also teach wine classes at the School of Hotel & Tourism Management, occasionally. Tell us when you knew you were going to be a Sommelier? I knew I wanted to be a Sommelier the first time I saw a well-dressed Sommelier doing his job in a fine dining restaurant. The way he talked, presented, opened and served the bottles were very eye-catching. Of course, being a Sommelier is not all about the ‘show’ but it is still the part I enjoy the most as Sommelier. What has been your biggest satisfaction from being a Sommelier? The biggest satisfaction from being a Sommelier is the fact that I can gain trust of my guests. Asking people to spend money (sometimes it can be a fortune) on the wines you recommend requires a certain level of trust. Being a Sommelier, I am lucky enough to improve my communication skills every day. Do you have a preference for new world or old world wines? I try not to have a preference but I can’t help to love old world wines, especially wines from France where I studied. If you, personally, could make your own wine and make it anywhere in the world, where would that be and what wine would you make? Burgundy, definitely Burgundy. I’d love to make some pretty pinot noir. I think Burgundy is the ultimate place where you can make wines which reflect the sense of origin (terroir) of a wine so perfectly.
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What are your goals in your career as a Sommelier? I wish, by proper promotion and education, more people will have wine with their meals. It is the job of a Sommelier to promote this kind of wine culture, to fill up the gap of food (especially Cantonese food) and wines (which is still a western cultural thing).
WINE REVIEW Tell us what you like about Twinwoods Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2010? It is a very decent Cabernet Sauvignon. Medium-deep bright ruby red. Fruit-driven style on the nose. Ripe, fresh blackcurrants and plums jump out from the glass with notes of mint, leather and a touch of spice. I found the oak to be quite well integrated and well controlled. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, bright and fresh thanks to its penetrating acidity. It has soft, good quality tannin with a cool climate style. The finish is reasonably lengthy and clean. I can enjoy this wine now but I am sure it will improve for the next 4-6 years. What would you pair it with food or occasion? A wide range of dishes will go well with this wine. A simply prepared pigeon or lamb rack will do the task. If you want Chinese, I would go for braised abalone with mushrooms. What do like about the region it’s from? I personally am not a big fan of big, powerful wines from other warmer regions. I like the fact that Margaret River is one of the coolest wine regions in Australia and also one of the driest (during the growing season) which allows many boutique wineries there to produce elegant wines. What do you like about the varietal and or style? I think Cabernet Sauvignon is the noblest red grape varietal. In good hands the wines are well-structured, balanced, elegant and age worthy. The flavor profile of an aged Cabernet Sauvignon is very unique, with a bouquet of cigar box, truffle, and mint. There are many ill made examples out there (too jammy, heavy, not balanced) yet the one I tasted here is very elegant and graceful.
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DWA T25 SomHK pp74-75 NIGEL CHAN.indd 74
5/21/2014 8:03:43 AM
N
igel Chan is passionate about wine culture. Working at Hotel Icon, communication has become one of his greatest strengths, and what he believes, his most useful tool when guiding guests through the wine list. Here we learn a little bit more about his history with wine.
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DWA T25 SomHK pp74-75 NIGEL CHAN.indd 75
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5/21/2014 8:03:45 AM
Twinwoods T
he Margaret River wine region of Western Australia is now recognized as one of the Australia’s finest wine producing regions. The small boutique winery, Twinwoods, is a young but rising star in the region. The wines are true to the region, showing bright and fresh aromas, with focused fruit flavors.
Wine Maker Aldo Bratovic brings over 25 years of industry experience to producing Twinwoods wines of distinction. It is the passion that ultimately led Aldo to the Margaret River wine region of Western Australia, which is recognized as one of Australia’s most premium wine producing regions. Here Aldo crafts wines under the Twinwoods label, employing his philosophy to produce iconic fine wines using iconic Margaret River grape varieties, and premium wines for everyday drinking. “My passion is twofold, firstly extremely fine wine of truly splendid quality and secondly the making of very good wine for everyday enjoyment.”
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DWA T25 SomHK pp76-77 TWINWOODS.indd 76
5/19/2014 7:19:40 PM
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5/19/2014 7:19:40 PM
miquel
sabria
M
iquel sits as the group head Sommelier of Catalunya Hong Kong and Singapore, and is perfectly placed being from Barcelona. He spends everyday ensuring that he is constantly learning, growing, etching others and loving what he does, which is wine.
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DWA T25 SomHK pp78-79 MIQUEL SABRIA.indd 78
5/19/2014 7:20:27 PM
What is your wine background where have you worked and for whom did you work? At the age of 20, I studied Hospitality but it wasn’t until years later that I decided to go through this profession and started studying in the culinary arts and the Sommelier professional certification. In between my studies I decided to get my first job as a Sommelier and presented myself to all the Michelin starred restaurants in Barcelona, being lucky to have my first opportunity in Moo Restaurant (1 Michelin star) and second restaurant oRoca Brothers. Later on, I opened a Wine Bar with the President of the Catalan Association of Sommeliers in Catalunya. Once I felt prepared I decided to come to Asia under the position of head Sommelier of Catalunya Hong Kong. Tell us when you knew you were going to be a sommelier? I’ve been always interested in the world of wine, but it was in a random short course where I fell in love with the whole sharing, talking, learning that the wine world involves. I will always remember the person who really introduced me to this world, Lluís Manel Barba! Who later on
would become my teacher when I studied for the professional title of Sommelier. What has been your biggest satisfaction from being a sommelier? It’s always about making the guest happy and ensuring they have the best experience possible. What traits or skills are required to be a successful Sommelier? There’s always something very important to follow in your life, and if you are lucky enough to make that your profession it ends up giving plenty of joy to your everyday life. Love what you do, and do it as best as you can. What are your goals in your career as a Sommelier? My goals in the career of Sommelier keep on changing everyday, but I can easily say that for me the important thing is to continuously learn, travel and feel proud about what I do. WINE REVIEW Tell us what you like about Santa Rita Casa Real Cabernet Sauvignon 2009? I find the complexity, extraction and freshness
of this wine interesting, which comes from one of the most recognized regions in Chile known as the “Bourdeaux Chilenean Region” being 100% of Cabernet Sauvignon. What would you pair it with food or occasions? I think it’s an ideal wine to pair with red meat, spicy sauces, some cheeses as Gruyere and Goat. It is also perfect to pair with barbecues or grilled vegetables. What do you like about the region it’s from? Chile is known as a new world, but in this region we can find some wineries who elaborate old style wines with a high knowledge and awesome results which make their wines sit at top class level. What do you like about the varietal and or style? Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the kings of all the existent varieties in the world, which comes from Bordeaux and it is now cultivated in the majority of country producers of wine. In my opinion, it is one of the grapes, which produces the best wines in the world.
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DWA T25 SomHK pp78-79 MIQUEL SABRIA.indd 79
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5/19/2014 7:20:28 PM
S
anta Rita has a long and illustrious history stretching back over 125 years to the early Chilean winemaking days. Distinguished politician and entrepreneur Don Domingo Fernandez founded Santa Rita in 1880 and promoted the introduction of the finest French vine stocks, nothing that Chile provided the ideal growing environment for foreign grapes, and in particular, Cabernet Sauvignon.
Santa Rita boasts ownership of close to 4,000 acres in Chile’s most important wine growing regions, including vineyards in the Maipo Valley, forty kilometers south of Chile’s capital, Santiago. With its ongoing focus on terroir, innovation and brand development, Santa Rita continues to produces wines that are rich, distinctive and unique. Today, Santa Rita is one of the most successful wine producers in South America, and the number one premium wine exporter in Chile. They have been selected as ‘Winery of the Year’ and impressive eight times by Wine and Spirits Magazine. “The range of wines here, from the value-for-money 120 selection… are worthy ambassadors for Chilean enology.” (James Halliday, Winepros) “Santa Rita is one of the most dependable Chilean wineries for good-value wines with considerable flavor” (Karen MacNeil, The Wine Bible) History and Tradition The history of wine in Chile began around 1550 somewhat after its discovery and conquest. Writers of the period spoke of the first planting of vines for the wine production immediately after Pedro de Valdivia took possession of the Chilean territory in the name of the King of Spain. as a result, Chile was more than a century ahead of South Africa in establishing its first vineyards, and became the first wine producer in the new world, some 200 years before California. Although the growth of wine-making in Chile during the colonial period was as slow as the evolution of society it self, towards the end of the 18th century the first shipments of wine to other American countries were made from the port of Valparaiso. Around that time, land that would later belong to Viña Santa Rita began to be used for grape growing. These land were also the stage for significant historic events associated with the independence of Chile. National heroes such
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as general Bernardo O’Higgins one of the founding fathers of the Chilean Nation, found safe harbor there after battling the forces of the Spanish crown. In the middle of the 19th century, once the republic had been established, a decisive change in the Chilean wine producing sector came about. Until that time, colonial methods of land use had been employed. Some visionaries, among them Don Domingo Fernández, a distinguished politician, founded Viña Santa Rita in 1880 and promoted the introduction of the finest French vine stocks. Following the advice of expert French penologists, he began producing wines with techniques and with results far superior to those traditionally achieved. Chile was not affected by the devasting phylloxera plague that affected vineyards in Europe. On the contrary, it provided an ideal environment for foreign grapes, especially those of Cabernet Sauvignon stock. Chilean soil is probably the best place in the world to grow Cabernets. The new Chilean wine began to appear on European markets in 1877, winning important awards and the praise and recognition of wine experts. During those years Chilean wines became well known, and Viña Santa Rita established itself as a modern wine producing enterprise. At the same time, it became known as an important cultural, political and spiritual center. The imposing manor house and its splendid park still retain echoes of many magnificent receptions, memories of important visitors, and many of the themes which inspired prominent Chilean artists of the time. These were also the days of Don Vicente GarciaHuidobro, the second owner of the vineyard, son-in-law of the founder, and whose Spanish title of nobility is still kept on the labels of Santa Rita wines in memory of his work and remarkable achievements. In 1980, a group of prestigious entrepreneurs , leadered by Don Ricardo Claro Valdés, acquire 50% of Viña Santa Rita, buying the remaining 50% eight years later.
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What is your wine background where have you worked and for whom did you work? I was working in finance till the age of 25 while I still lived in Italy. I decided to move to London to improve my English skills and ended up working in this beautiful, natural French wine bar called Terroir. After two years the company opened a new place called Brawn and I worked there as bar manager. After three wonderful years in the UK I moved to Australia, which inevitably lead me to Sydney where I worked in a small Italian wine bar. There I focused exclusively in natural wines, all small labels, as Assistant Manager. After a long trip in Japan, UK again and Italy, I went back to Sydney for another year to work in an Italian restaurant called Vini, as head Sommelier. After one year the company decided to open this wonderful Italian wine bar with a focus on Italian food and Italian wines; all small labels, organic and biodynamic, and I just couldn’t resist the opportunity.
vineyard and in the cellar, to retain its personality while reflecting the unique terroir.
Tell us when you knew you were going to be a Sommelier? Well, at the beginning of my first experience as Sommelier in Sydney, I had a few doubts, but I’m a food and a wine lover so, after a short period I felt myself extremely comfortable in my position.
What do like about the region it’s from? Ruffino is located right in the heart of the hill next to Florence, an absolutely magical place for food and wine lovers.
What traits or skills are required to be a successful Sommelier? To be a successful Sommelier studies are really important but that doesn’t necessarily mean you will be a successful Sommelier. Very important factors are passion and enthusiasm, being able to understand what kind of customer you have in front of you while also having the ability to make that great suggestion to satisfy their needs. Do you have a preference for new world or old world wines? I don’t have a preference, I just believe in wines that have been made with minimal human intervention, both in the
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If you, personally, could make your own wine and make it anywhere in the world, where would that be and what wine would you make? I would definitively choose Tuscany, in Italy. I’m a Sangiovese lover and there is nothing better than having a beautiful “Podere” right on the hills next to Siena, San Gimignano and Montalcino. Just observing the nature and listening to the old people of the area. WINE REVIEW Tell us what you like about Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico 2008? It is a very personal and happy choice for me as I am a strong Sangiovese lover.
What would you pair it with food or occasions? A great wine to match especially with a typical dish from Florence: the classic Bistecca Fiorentina (T-Bone Steak) but also goes wonderfully with a Ragu’ alla Bolognese, as well as long aged cheeses. What do you like about the varietal and or style? This Chianti Riserva is a very exclusive selection from the best grapes selected from the main vineyards. Mainly Sangiovese, with its long ageing (more the 2 years) gives to the wine a wonderful structure, and also maintain the classic characteristics of the grape, like the sour cherry in particular, berries, notes of pepper and delicate spiciness, with tobacco and cinnamon.
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passionate Italian Sommelier, Simone leads with his desire to really know the intimate details behind everything to do with the wine he is focused on. Be it history, geography or even the story behind a small boutique winery, this is what he loves.
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Ruffino
More than a Century of Making Wine and History
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uffino, founded in 1877, is one of Italy’s oldest and most respected family-oriented wineries. The company has premium vineyards in Italy’s most important DOCG production regions; including Montalcino, Chianti and Chianti Classico, for a total of more than 1,000 hectares of land and 350 hectares of vineyards. Two cousins, Ilario and Leopoldo Ruffino established Ruffino winery in Pontassieve, Florence, Tuscany in 1877, purchasing raw wine from local growers (and producing some wine themselves), cellaring, finishing, bottling the wine, and selling it under the Ruffino name. They met with near-instant success - their Chianti began winning gold-medal awards within four years. Throughout Italy and abroad, the name Ruffino quickly became associated with quality Chianti. Prominent people like composer Giuseppe Verdi and the Duke of Aosta, a member of Italy’s royal family, can be found among Ruffino’s clients, dating back as far as 1890 when Ruffino was
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appointed official wine supplier to the royal Italian court. The certificate commemorating this honor can still be found in the cellars at Pontassieve today. When the Chianti appellation achieved DOCG status in 1984, it was a bottle of Ruffino Chianti that was granted the first strip label on its neck with the coveted number AAA0000001 -- a testament to the brand’s long history and heritage as a producer of top quality Chianti. Today, Ruffino is the second most popular Italian wine brand in US restaurants, according to the Wine & Spirits restaurant poll. Its top wines like Riserva Ducale Oro, Modus and Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino regularly received ratings of 90 points or
higher from the world’s most esteemed wine reviewers. Ruffino has a long history and tradition but does not mean it, or its wines are stuck in the past, or reliant on outdated technology or winemaking methods. The foresight of the winery and the desire of new exciting challenges, has led to the creation of imposing Supertuscans and other wines produced with local and international grape varieties. Among Ruffino’s most recognised brands is the coveted Ruffino Riserva Ducale Gold, which will become a Gran Selezione (the new premium level for the wines of Chianti Classico DOCG) with the 2010 vintage – becoming, Riserva Ducale “Gold” Chianti
Classico Gran Selezione. It sits alongside good company with the Riserva Ducale Tan (in its 83rd vintage), Modus, Il Ducale, Chianti Superiore, Lumina. According to SymphonyIRI industry data for the last 52 weeks, Ruffino is experiencing approximately eight percent growth in dollar sales in the US - Ruffino’s year-to-date global sales are growing at nine percent. The brand has launched a number of new items in the last year, including the highly successful introduction of Ruffino Prosecco sparkling wine. In short, the name Ruffino name has come to mean something quite simple for wine drinkers worldwide: Italian wine at its best.
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PLEASE ENJOY OUR WINES RESPONSIBLY. © 2014 RUFFINO IMPORT COMPANY, RUTHERFORD, CA
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hief Sommelier at The Peninsula, Bhatia Dheeraj, is a passionate man for wine after being introduced to its opulence and grandeur at a young age. Having notoriously worked at some of the world’s most noted restaurants, he now seeks to enhance every single person’s experience, from start to finish, when enjoying each and every wine. Tell us a bit about your history in wine? I have had the privilege of working with some top luxury hotels and renowned Chefs of the world. I started as an apprentice Sommelier and have worked under five different head Sommeliers in my career. Some places that I have worked are The Oberoi, New Delhi, Burj Al Arab, Dubai, The Round House restaurant, Cape Town SA, Raffles Hotel, Singapore, Some Projects in Raffles Beijing and Seychelles and I am currently the Chief Sommelier of The Peninsula Hong Kong overseeing the entire wine program. When and how did you fall in love with wine? It is the liquid poetry that has attracted me and I am still learning. When I was small my father would always give me some Champagne to sip on every New Years Eve and I guess that’s where it all started. What type of training or experience prepared you to become a sommelier? Apart from all the qualifications from CMS, WSET, CSW and travelling to different wine regions, I have had a bit of formal education in Burgundy and Stellenbosch. What is the most challenging situation you’ve been in or request you’ve received as a Sommelier? In day to day operations, there are many challenges and I try my best to solve all ensuring we give our guests what they want and more importantly they leave happy with a memory that brings them back. A few years ago, I remember receiving a weird request where the guest ordered a fine wine and chased it with a soft drink, it was absolutely bad. Also, I served an amazing Napa red and the guest asked me to bring an ice bucket and they had it all topped with ice cubes. This is the most recent one and I am unable to get over it. What are your goals in your career as a sommelier? To inspire and be inspired by learning more everyday and contributing as much as I can both at work and outside work. I wish to give back
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to society whenever I can and spread more and more wine centric culture wherever I undertake projects. WINE REVIEW What are your thoughts on the Luce, 2010? Apart from the fact that the wine is made by two giant personalities from our industry and the grapes coming from the Montalcino vineyards, to me Luce has always been a versatile and fashionable wine. The blend of Sangiovese and Merlot is magical and makes the wine so elegant and opulent. The wine is very Italian in essence and Californian by heart. How would you pair it? It will go perfectly with Japanese Beef tenderloin, roasted pigeon with Muscavado crust, Chinese style sweet and sour pork or Chinese style sautéed diced beef and Peking duck. What do like about the region it’s from? The region has a lot of deep history for winemaking of different styles and has vineyards on high and low altitudes. The style of wines coming from Montalcino cannot be replicated and has its own personality that every wine connoisseur would like to have on their lists. I wish that I could visit this beautiful region soon to experience its local culture, cuisine and heritage. What do you like about the varietal and or style? The blend is just perfect where the supple Merlot lifts the high acid Sangiovese. The wine is deep purple in its youth with black fruit aromas of fresh black berries, cassis, lots of sweet spice like cinnamon and cloves alongside some Cadbury chocolate and slight vanillin. It has firm tannins and medium acidity on the palate and certainly the wine needs to be aged for a few more years and integrated well.
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Background Lamberto Frescobaldi, distinguished for his passion for wine and his talented hand as a winemaker, today has the responsibility of shaping the future of the wine project originally undertaken by the founders of the Luce della Vite estate. His primary mission is the upgrading of the estate’s vineyards and the improvement of the winemaking facilities, plus research projects focusing on numerous experimental vineyards. No one was better equipped than he to bring new energy to the project that was launched in 1995, fruit of the dreams and determination of two leading figures in 20th century winemaking, Lamberto’s father Vittorio Frescobaldi and Robert Mondavi. Lamberto Frescobaldi The Logo It is a radiant sun, with its corona of twelve flaming rays. Anyone who strolls through the cities of central Italy will have admired it carved into the keystone of an arch, wrought into the decorative iron of a gate, or pressed into a ceramic tile. It is even found on the high altar of Florence’s Santo Spirito church, built by Brunelleschi on a piece of property donated by the Frescobaldi family. This sun represents the Divine Light, light for mankind. It is a light that gives warmth, that nourishes growing things, and crafts the sinew within wine. Simply pronouncing the name Luce (light) conjures up the power of Sangiovese and of Merlot, which together give birth this wine, in the generous earth of Montalcino.
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Excellence shines on Montalcino.
www.lucedellavite.com
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ithout a doubt, John Ong is a people person. Day to day, he loves understanding the nature of peoples choices and what flavors make them both intrigued and happy. This is what makes John one of the best in the business.
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DWA T25 SomHK pp90-91 JOHN ONG.indd 90
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What is your wine background where have you worked and for whom did you work? I started working in the food and beverage industry 12 years ago in Singapore. I started as a bartender back then, after 4 years I was promoted to become a bar manager for one of the outlets that was owned by the Singapore Government (Sentosa Island). After I finished my two years working holiday in Australia, I started working as a Sommelier at Domani Ristorante. When and how did you fall in love with wine? During that period, wine was not a big thing in Singapore. But the management saw a very big future and potential in the wine business, so a lot of times my colleagues and I were being sent to wine trainings and tastings. My motivation started during one of my training trips to the Barrosa Valley in Australia. After the trip, I quit my job in Singapore and went back to Australia to try to learn more about wines there. I spend 2 years working and traveling all over Australia to know more about wines. What type of training or experience prepared you to become a Sommelier? In Hong Kong, you really need to have a very good knowledge about all the technical things about wine because Hong Kong consumers are very knowledgeable about what wines they are drinking. But as my General Manager Mr. Stefano Bassanese always says to me “Wine is about traditions, history, culture, people, fun, pleasure, friendship and emotions. Never take it too seriously in the term of rules, explanation, regulations and description. Enjoy every drop of this nectar and your heart will speak for you. Any other way will be a murder for the wines“. What is the most challenging situation you’ve been in or request you’ve received as a Sommelier? Food and wine pairing. It’s a great honor for me to work with Chef Andrea Spagoni. Day by day I understand more about his philosophy around cuisine. Every single ingredient that you can find in his dishes has meaning behind it. So, when you have an amazing Chef in the restaurant, it’s actually very challenging at the beginning. His creations were always so outstanding and this inspired me to find something interesting to pair it up with.
If you weren’t a Sommelier, and could do anything, what would you be doing? If I am not a Sommelier, I think I will still work in the food and beverage industry maybe as a super cool bartender? I like to communicate with customers, sharing experiences and stories with them. You could say that I am a very talkative person. WINE REVIEW Tell us what you like about Masi Costasera Amarone Classico DOC 2007? What I like most about the modern style of this Amarone is it has more fruit upfront than the traditional style Amarones. On the nose, this Amarone is clean and pronounced with sun-dried blackberries, sweet note of vanilla from the oak and a hint of raisin at the end. Full bodied, fruit driven and a bit spicy with soft tannins. Good concentration, elegant yet complex wine. Medium finish. Modern style Amarones exhibit high alcohol levels like the traditional wines but also reveal bold concentrated flavors, outstanding balance and elegance. What would you pair it with food or occasions? Amarone pairs up very well with heavy meals like “Risotto” or grilled meats. For this Amarone that is with red fruits, intensity and softer tannins, I’d pair it up with one of our signature dishes at Domani Ristoranteslow roasted lamb loin, perfect combination. What do like about the region it’s from? Amarone della Valpolicella is from North Italy in the Veneto region. It’s a very special place in my heart because it’s the first place that I visited in Italy. It’s also where the biggest wines expo in Italy “Vinitaly” is held every year in the city of Verona. What do you like about the varietal and or style? Amarone della Valpolicella is a very unique wine. The Amarone style developed as Veneto`s winemaker searched for ways of how to increase the body, complexity and alcohol contents of their wines. Grapes are harvested ripe and allowed to dry traditionally in straw mats or in special drying chambers with temperature controls to remove water from the berries while retaining sweetness from the grapes. The result is intense concentration and a very high sugar content, which in turn translates into a 15% or higher alcohol level.
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MASI AGRICOLA MASI Masi Agricola is a winemaking company that has always been an interpreter of the values of the Venetian regions. Its history begins at the end of the XVIII century when the Boscaini family acquired valuable vineyards in a small valley called “Vaio dei Masi”, in the heart of the Valpolicella Classica area. Since then it has expanded to the best wine producing areas of the Venetian regions and has exported both grapes and technical expertise to the New World, in Argentina. The company president, Sandro Boscaini, is the sixth generation of the family to have helped make Masi Amarone one of Italy’s icon wines. It is thanks to him that Amarone - a unique wine for its origin, use of ancient grape varieties and method of production - is commercially successful and highly appreciated internationally. His great love for the Veneto’s most noble product gives him the nickname “Mr Amarone”, first coined in a book about his career. Masi has a recognised expertise in the Appassimento technique, used in the area since the time of the Ancient Romans, which consists of laying freshlypicked grapes on bamboo racks to dry during the cold winter months, causing them to gain in colour, sugars, aroma and tannins. Masi is an historic producer of Amarone, having possessed prestigious vineyard sites and ideal drying loft sites since 1772. The locations selected are hillside vineyards, with their slopes facing the sunset (“a sera”) and it is no coincidence that Masi Amarone Classico bears the evocative name, “Costasera”. In the 1950s, Masi was the first winemaker to introduce the concept of
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cru or single vineyard wine to Valpolicella. At the beginning of the 1980s the Masi Technical Group revolutionised the art of making Amarone, turning it into a “modern wine with an ancient heart”. Today, Masi makes five different Amarones and has the widest and most expert range on the international market. It exports Amarone and other products to a good 94 countries, spreading Venetian Values round the world. MASI TECHNICAL GROUP The heart of Masi’s success is a unique approach to winemaking. While most wineries have a single winemaker -sometimes a person who receives more attention than the wines themselves Masi has taken a different path, creating a team of experts with a range of skills that includes winemaking, agronomy, laboratory research and marketing. The Masi Technical Group works under the leadership of the latest generation of the Boscaini family Raffaele, Sandro’s son, with the goal of restoring the viticultural and oenological heritage of Venetian premium wines. Thanks to this Group, Masi is a pioneer in the experimentation and use of secondary Veronese grape varieties in addition to the principal grapes. After extensive research into grape appassimento, which has led to the creation of a new style of Amarone and thereby contributed to its success on the world stage, the Masi Technical Group is now engaged in a specific project designed to enhance the elements that make for tipicity in a wine. Particular attention is being paid to the maceration and fermentation stages of the process, with an emphasis on the role of yeasts.
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T
he Appassimento method of drying grapes on bamboo racks to concentrate aromas and tastes is traditional for the Venetiae area.
certifies Masi’s expertise in this technique in the XXI century,
on each bottle. Masi is an historic producer, open to innovation, and has re-interpreted Appassimento with modernity and originality to make its five Amarone wines. Costasera is the modern Amarone, symbol of majesty and elegance.
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What is your wine background where have you worked and for whom did you work? I started my wine background pretty early. I started as a bartender in LKF and also started studying in wine. At the age of 21 I attained the certificate of WSET level 3. After around one year, I got my first job in a fine dining French restaurant. I was so glad that they gave me a chance to learn about fine dining, in just one year I managed to get the job of an Assistant Sommelier. After that I moved to Hotel ICON, as a Senior Sommelier. In 2014, I moved to Bibo (Le Bistro Bohème) as a Sommelier and kept on chasing my vision to fight for a few Michelin Stars and to create one of the most exciting wine lists in Hong Kong. When and how did you fall in love with wine? I fell in love with wine when I was still young and studying, my lecturer of the international beverage education introduced me to wine and the most attractive thing about wine to me is the diversity of it. I think it is so amazing that a beverage can marry with almost all kinds of food in the world and create millions of different combinations. I love food and wine pairing. What has been your biggest satisfaction from being a Sommelier? To pick a bottle of wine that my guests don’t know about, then to see how much they like the wine is perfect. What is the most challenging situation you’ve been in or request you’ve received as a Sommelier? Its always challenging to change the mind of some very brand oriented guests. Many guests tend to stick to the same wine again and again, however I love to broaden their palate and knowledge and try to introduce them something wonderful but not as famous or familiar to them. If you could pass just one thing on to someone looking to become a Sommelier, what would it be? Passion! Its very important to be passionate about wine and the industry as a whole.
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WINE REVIEW Tell us what you like about Castello Banfi, Poggio all’Oro Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG, 2004? This is a brunello from one of the most renowned producer in Tuscany. The wine is 10 years old, but as a reserva brunello, it is still young . It still shows the colour of dense dark cherry, with a little granite on the rim. On the nose, this wine is still very shy and youthful yet with good purity. It has a concentrated aroma with the primary fruit of stones of a cherry, oxidized apple and red currents. Toasted coconut, dried leaves and fine leather notes show in a subtle way on the second nose, also with a touch of dusty mineral tone. On the palate is a good balance between freshness and rich texture, fine powdery and dry tannin. Seductive acidity, showing subtle fruit of fresh and sweet dark cherry and plum. Bouquet of mild vanilla and bitter chocolate. Supported by a sharp mineral edge of wet chalk. It has a pure and lingering finish. What would you pair it with food or occasions? I would recommend enjoying this with meat that is a bit gamier but with less fattiness, such as pigeon, venison or wild boar, with a more gentle seasoning to match the purity in the wine. As a Hong Kong Sommelier, I would love to enjoy this wine with a good piece of Hong Kong style fried pigeon with oriental spiced salt. What do you like about the region it’s from? Personally, I am a huge fan of Italian wine. For Tuscany, I am more keen on Sangiovese, I really enjoy the purity and dusty drying freshness. I am not too interested in those Chianti or brunello wines that are over-made or over-seasoned with new oak, so I always prefer more traditional styled Tuscany or even Italian wine. Such as: Emidio Pepe from Abruzzi, Bartolo from Barolo and Mastroberardino from Campania What do you like about the varietal and or style? Pure, fine fruit, bright acidity, freshness and the elegant structure.
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allace Lo is one of the youngest Sommeliers in Hong Kong. In 2013 he was awarded ‘The best Sommelier of greater China’ by the Hong Kong Sommelier Association and also the Champion of ‘The best Sommelier of Hong Kong 2013’. His greatest goal is to shine in the 2015 Asia Oceana Sommelier competition.
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Our decades of clonal and enological research, especially focused on the native Sangiovese vine, have been registered with the European Community and shared with all. These endeavors gave rise to the renaissance of Brunello and the creation of “Super Tuscan” wines.
Castello Poggio alle Mura Overlooking a stunning natural Tuscan landscape, this medieval castle expresses the speechless poetry of Montalcino. The origins of the castle, historically named “Poggio alle Mura,” or “Walled Hilltop,” can be traced to the ancient Etruscans, but its deepest historical niche was carved during the Middle Ages. The fortress served as the Republic of Siena’s first line of defense against attack from the south and was awarded by the city-state to an eminent nobleman, Count Placido Placidi, in recognition of his valor. His descendants remained at Poggio alle Mura for over 500 years. Though damaged during World War II and reduced almost to a ruin, the Mariani family’s acquisition and loving, careful restoration in the late 20th century brought it back to its original splendor, making it the hospitality center of the Castello Banfi estate. In Pursuit of Excellence Noble vines are planted on choice parcels that comprise just one third of the Castello Banfi estate, which sprawls over 2,830 hectares of rolling hills and lush valleys, speckled with fruit orchards, fields of grain and dense woodland. Our constellation of single vineyards, at varying heights, positions and exposures, encompasses over three dozen varying subsoils. Their inherent characteristics were carefully paired to complementary grape varietals, native and international, white and red, highlighting their nuances. In the case of the region’s historic Sangiovese, three decades of intensive and unprecedented research in conjunction with university scholars isolated a selection of optimal clones, subsequently registered for all to share, that when woven together yield consistently outstanding Brunello. The results of this study, along with our natural, sustainable vineyard and winery practices, are published in a highly detailed tome, aptly titled “The Pursuit of Excellence.” Constellation of Vineyards On the gentle western slopes facing the Mediterranean of our 2,830 hectare estate, one-third is cultivated in noble vines, and the balance in olive groves, wheat, truffles and plums, alongside forests filled with deer, wild boar and pheasants. The soil is poor; vines grow deep. Grapes grown in our maritime soils produce wines of elegant and subtle character, unique to southern Tuscany. Our terra, rich in clay and calcium, regulates growth and adds complexity. Stones, rounded by the Orcia and Ombrone Rivers, impart distinctive minerals to our white wines. Amid our vineyards, paleontologists recently unearthed one of the greatest discoveries of its kind, a 5 million year old whale fossil completely intact. It is the influence of the prehistoric ocean bed that once covered the hills of Tuscany that today makes the grapes of Castello Banfi so expressive in character.
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Winery & Cellars... The vineyards are our soul; the winery is our heart. Fulfilling the promise of our land with minimal, positive influence on the gifts of nature requires a marriage of tradition and innovation. A winery conceived as “state of the art” remains so only through constant study, upgrade and improvement. Our most recent concept of hybrid fermenters combines the hygienic benefits of temperature-controlled stainless steel with the natural oxygenation and deep character imparted by oak staves. Our wines are unfiltered and we bottle under nitrogen; reducing sulphites and histamines to result in more pure and natural wines.The artisan approach of microvinification nurtures the inherent richness of our grapes and focuses the character imparted by each single vineyard. Enoteca & Taverna Our Enoteca-Wine Bar is the ideal environment for wine enthusiasts seeking to sample from the range of our estate offerings, accompanied by regional cured meats and cheeses along with our own olive oil and Salsa Etrusca. Additional offerings in our Tuscan wine shop include honey, artisan pastas, biscotti and local ceramics, books, wools, soaps, stemware, wine jewelry and service items. Our popular Tuscan Taverna is located in the vaulted cellars of the Castello. The rustic wooden tables are set under brick arches and tapestried walls. A wall cut-out peers into the former dungeons of the Castello, today cellaring vintages dating back more than half a century. Castello Banfi wines complement the multicourse tasting menus and the individual offerings of traditional Tuscan cooking. Il Borgo At Castello Banfi, comfortable and charmingly elegant hospitality awaits guests touring the breathtaking wine country of southern Tuscany. Our guest rooms and suites are built inside the stone houses forming the 18th century hamlet (Il Borgo) aside the walls and towers of the Castello. Along both sides of the sloping village street, the exteriors of the luxurious accommodations reflect the architectural beauty and heritage of a Tuscan past, while the interiors have been carefully structured to offer the comforts of a sophisticated home. Shaded entries from the quaint terraced street walkways lead to private “hideaways” handsomely decorated by Federico Forquet, Italy’s eminent interior designer. Sumptuously appointed rooms and suites, accented in Tuscan country style, are a delight for the senses and the spirit.
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Tell us a bit about your history with wine. I started studying wine after graduating from the University of Calgary in 2005. Since then I have studied with the International Sommelier Guild, Wine Spirits Education Trust and Court of Master Sommeliers. I did most of my work in Canada before I moved to Hong Kong to be a part of the opening team for Yardbird, Ronin and Sundays. I taught wine classes and was Operating Manager at an Italian wine store called Merlo Vinoteca. In addition, I was Wine Director for a company that ran special events and wine festivals across Canada. When did you know you were going to be a Sommelier? I knew I wanted to become a Sommelier after an experience on a train from Moscow to St. Petersburg when I was about 21 years old. It was a night train and I was sleeping on a wooden bunk, exhausted at the end of a summer of backpacking through Europe. Their was a man with his sons in my cabin and, although he spoke no English, he had a rustic looking flask of vodka which he was more than eager to share with me and his sons while we played card games to pass the time. It was that wonderful and memorable experience of making new friends, who I couldn’t communicate in English with, over a glass that taught me how drinks brought people together and that there was a correlation between where you were in the world and what people were drinking (and eating). What has been your biggest satisfaction from being a Sommelier? Having the ability to share the stories of the people who make the wine and helping them understand not only how it tastes, but why it tastes the way it does, is one of my favorite parts of being a Sommelier. Do you have a preference for new world or old world wines? These days, new world wines can be made to taste like old world wines and old world wines can be made to taste like new world wines so it is not an easy answer to give. However, I must say that even though I love all wines from around the world, my heart will always lie in Italy from Sicily right up to Alto Adige. If you, personally, could make your own wine and make it anywhere in the world, where would that be and what wine would you make? I would love to learn how to make wine in the terraced, volcanic vineyards of Mount Etna in Sicily. It is an area with extremely anomalous and elegant wines, deep and rich in history with a story that is still waiting to be told in full.
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What are your goals in your career as a Sommelier? I would love to teach more about wine. With teaching would come more studying and with studying would come more tasting and exploration of the world’s wine regions. I love learning almost as much as I love teaching and the more you teach, the more you learn so it would be great to contribute to furthering people’s knowledge at any opportunity. I am also an advocate for raising awareness and understanding of Sake; one day, I would love the chance to be an authority in Sake. WINE REVIEW Tell us what you like about Michele Chiarlo, Barolo Cerequio, 2009? It has classic Barolo notes of red roses, tar and black cherries, and an intrinsic sense of minerality that promises development with proper cellaring. The tannins on this Barolo are long and fine grained. They carry you through a long and satisfying finish. How would you pair it? I would enjoy it in various occasions with a classic pairing like osso buck to a simple glass for breakfast or even while having Osso Buco for breakfast! There is an approachability to this bottle that is not always present in Barolo. Maybe it is a reflection of the abnormal ripening patterns of the 2009 vintage in Barolo but with those challenges are some just slightly riper fruit characteristics that help make this wine enjoyable now. What do like about the region it’s from? I have to say that my heart will always lie in Piemonte, and even more specifically in the Langhe that houses the very special wines of Barolo and Barbaresco. My first bottle of Barbaresco was over a meal that seemed to last for hours and hours. I marveled at how the wine developed and changed with literally every taste and the relationship solidified from there. Barolo and Barbaresco are certainly not the same but they share a similar ethereal quality unique to their respective soils. What do you like about the varietal and or style? Barolo is a wine with such stature. You can taste its prestige and you can taste the feeling that the wine is trying to evoke. When you drink Barolo, you feel privileged because each nosing, dances from floral to fresh fruit and then dried fruit to tar and asphalt and back again; the wine can be angular on purpose and it loves long stewed meats and aged cheese with salt crystals and I love all of those things.
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elliot
faber O
ver a long train ride, a rustic looking flask of vodka and a card game, first set Elliot on his quest to become a top Sommelier. Now working with Yardbird and Ronin Restaurants, he believes in the power of beverages bringing people from all around the world together.
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Michele
Chiarlo
Michele Chiarlo come from a family that has dedicated itself to vine-growing for at least five generations. In 1956, with a diploma in oenology, Michele Chiarlo began his career as a producer with a small cellar in Calamandrana (on the border between Monferrato and the Langhe) starting off with 5 hectares of his father’s company’s vineyards, planted with Barbera and Muscat grapes. Little by little his business has grown, stretching out towards the other two areas which have made Piedmontese wines famous all over the world: Barolo, where he has created a cellar for the vinification and the aging, in the middle of his more prestigious vineyards, and Rovereto, which is, historically speaking, the most suited hillside in the Gavi area, among whose vineyards he has built a winery. In the early 1970s, he was the first to subject Barbera to malolactic fermentation, which signaled the start of the improvement in the quality of this wine; currently the Barbera d’Asti Michele Chiarlo is a byword for prestige in the 40odd countries to which it is exported. Fundamental moments in the story of the Michele Chiarlo company was the purchase of the foremost Barolo crus in Langa: the Podere Cerequio at La Morra, in 1988. The Barolo Cerequio has contributed to the Michele Chiarlo brand name attaining international renown. Of enormous prestige was the 1995 purchase of the Aluffi estate in Castelnuovo Calcea, in the Asti part of Monferrato: 30 hectares entirely given over to Barbera, in which the jewel in the crown is represented by Podere La Court, where the outstandingly superb homonymous cru is produced. At present the company owns more than 50 hectares of vineyards, which account for all its most important crus. The technical staff, coordinated by Stefano Chiarlo, guarantees the quality of the production at the other 60 hectares situated in Piedmont ‘s three production areas: Monferrato, Langa and Gavi.
“It is the most beautiful concentration of great crus that Langa can express.” – Atlante delle vigne di Langa, edited by Carlo Petrini – Slow Food Editore,1990 Cerequio is one of Langa’s great historical crus.All the guides – Fantini 1880, Ratti 1961, Slow Food Editore 1990,Veronelli 1996 – ranked it as one of the top Barolo crus Our estate comprises 9 hectares of vineyards and a 19thcentury hamlet where Palas Cerequio was born, the Barolo cru resort. In the cellars we decided to have the Caveau with our story:Barolos from 1958 to the present day,with more than 6,000 bottles of historic memory. Our Barolo Cerequio, the first harvest being in 1988, is produced only in the years that we deem excellent. Style of vinification: fermentation in 55-hl oak barrels, 15 days in contact with the grape skins, use of the system of shower bathing the cap, temperature at 27°- 30°C Maturation: in 700-litre barrels for 2 years Refinement: at least 15-16 months in the bottle
TASTING NOTES Denominazione di origine controllata e garantita Variety: Nebbiolo 100%
ACCOMPANIMENTS Important dishes of red meat and game, excellent with ripe, hard cheese
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ORGANOLEPTIC CHARACTERISTICS Colour: lively garnet red.Optimum density and fluidity Aroma: ample, generous and with a marked personality. A splendid symphony of sensations, among which ripe fruit (blackcurrant, apricot,maraschino cherry),mint leaves, gentian roots and spices Taste: all the seductive aromas are confirmed on the palate. It has a rich, aristocratic body of great character, a presence of delicate tannins; surprising is its delicacy,which caresses one’s mouth CONSUMPTION PERIOD It reaches its peak after 5-6 years and ages well for up to at least 20 years SERVING TEMPERATURE 17°-18°C
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A
my Yim of Zuma has passion for wine coming out of her fingertips. She believes that it is not just a drink, but human history in liquid form. Amy holds that through wine you can learn about history, culture, love, passion and so much more, you just have to try.
amy
Tell us about your background in wine? I didn’t start my wine career as a sommelier but have been in the wine industry since 2007 in Korea and Hong Kong. I have imported and worked in sales, marketing, tutoring wine tasting events and also have contributed in media and wine magazines. My first sommelier job was at Boqueria, a Spanish restaurant, then I moved to Zuma working as one of the sommeliers and managing over 400 wines and a broad Sake selection. I found my value more as a sommelier, really enjoying my job communicating and sharing my enthusiasm with all of the wine lovers in
me what to order next, I had to choose three wines more that would blow them away from a great starting point. At the end of the night four beautiful bottles were opened and I had four very happy gentlemen!
the restaurant.
Tell us what you like about the Marques de Riscal, Rioja Reserva (2008)? Marques de Riscal Reserva 2008 is such a classic Rioja style, it’s elegant, soft and delicious! This wine is made with carefully selected grapes in their best soil in Rioja Alavesa and is matured in fine American oak giving it toasty, vanilla and sweet spicy aromas. Although it is matured for more than two years, it still has vibrant, dark berry fruit characters; well balanced with acidity, tannin is firm but well integrated. The wine is still young so you can keep it in the cellar for quite a long time. This is the kind of wine that you can enjoy with or without food, the wine you might bring to a dinner party or any social occasion without risk. Its glamorous looking bottle with gold wire netting is another charm of this Rioja.
When and how did you fall in love with wine? I had a friend who really loved wine, he got me into wine so it was for fun. Then I started the WSET course and the more I learned, the more I wanted to learn and eventually I moved into the industry. Wine isn’t just a drink, it is human history. I still remember the day in Rioja, drinking wines with local people talking about their wines passionately. That was when I fell in love with wine. What type of training or experience prepared you to become a sommelier? I am WSET qualified, completing the level 4 diploma course. I learned a lot more in the field by meeting winemakers, people in the industry, selling wines and writing about it. Especially when I was running my company; to select the products in my portfolio I travelled wine regions of the world researching the soil, vines, vineyards and having open discussions with winemakers really helped me to develop my skills in this industry. What is the most challenging situation you’ve been in or request you’ve received as a sommelier? One night, a group of guys came and ordered Chateau Talbot 1986, after that they were competing as to who was going to order the greatest wine of the night. Every time one bottle was finished the next person asked
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If you weren’t a sommelier, and could do anything, what would you be doing? I would have loved to be a K-POP star. I love singing, maybe one of the Girl’s Generation, but it’s a bit late now!
How would you pair it in terms of food and occasion? At Zuma, I recommend it paired with the following robata dishes : 1. Beef Skewer 2. Yakitori (Chicken Skewer), 3. Pork belly, 4.Nasu Miso (Japanese egg plant with miso & chilli sauce) 5. Zuma’s signature barley miso marinated baby chicken. What are the region’s special qualities? The region of Rioja has played an important role in Spain’s wine history. It has been producing wines for centuries through the Phoenician, Roman, Moors and Bordelaise eras. There are still vineyards
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yim in the region from the Roman times. The real improvement in Rioja came after Philoxera devastated the Bordeaux vineyards in the 1870’s. Marques de Riscal were the first to introduce Bordeaux wine making techniques in the region and also planted the first Cabernet Sauvignon in Rioja. Rioja now offers stunning wines at a reasonable price. It produces versatile wines that go well with many different dishes and also holds great ageing potential What do you like about the varietal and or style? Marques de Riscal Reserva 2008 is made from 90% old Tempranillo vines with a tiny proportion of Graciano and Mazuelo (Carignan) while other Riojas has Garnacha (Grenache) in the blend as well. Tempranillo’s real value had been hidden as it was massively over-aged in oak for a long time. However, a move into modern winemaking techniques has Rioja produce more fruitful wines with shorter ageing, or even Joven style wines with no oak ageing. Tempranillo develops slight leathery, cedar wood, earthy characters and has many faces depending on where it is grown or when it is consumed. More importantly, it has great longevity.
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Marqués de Riscal S
ince its foundation in 1858, Marqués de Riscal has always been an innovating, pioneering cellar and reference in a constantly changing winemaking sector
Main milestones at Marqués de Riscal history 1858. Creation of the Marqués de Riscal winery 1895. Marqués de Riscal was the first non-French wine to win the diploma of honour of the Bordeaux Exhibition 1972. Marqués de Riscal founded its winery in Rueda dedicated to making white wine, creating a new style and recovering the verdejo variety 1974. Introduction of the Sauvignon Blanc variety from France to Rueda 1980. Force behind the creation of the Denominación de Origen Rueda 1986. Launch of Barón de Chirel, a wine considered “Rioja new style”, produced under the traditional Médoc Reserve Marqués de Riscal style, including the Cabernet Sauvignon variety 2000. Project 2000: Improvement of the production processes: • First manual sorting table settled • Homogeneous quality in every harvest Creation of the City of Wine (first enoturism complete offer): • 5 star Hotel (Luxury Collection – Starwood) • Vinotherapy – Caudalie Spa • Gastronomic restaurant assesed by Francis Paniego (Michelín Star) • Guided visits to the Marqués de Riscal winery 2008. 150th Anniversary of Marqués de Riscal. Launch of Marqués de Riscal 150 Aniversario, a wine that will only be produced with special vintages 2009. Launch of a new range of single vinyard wines: Finca Montico (D.O. Rueda) y Finca Torrea (D.O. Ca Rioja) 2010. Marqués de Riscal buys the Marqués de Arienzo trademark and more than 300 hectares of land and vines. Starts the production of crianza and young wines 2011. Transformation of the 1883 wine cellar, one of our oldest wine cellars, into a space equipped with the latest technology destined to the production of the high range wines
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Company’s Philosophy • Innovating character since its foundation in 1858 • Objective of our wines: »» Wines based on indigenous varieties: tempranillo and verdejo »» Original, fresh, elegant and easy to drink wines. We look for a high natural acidity and a low ph that let us age the wines in bottle. The soft extractions keep the elegance in the wines »» Good aging potential in order to offer the complexity that can develop tempranillo wines of old vine • Exclusive terroirs to produce original wines with enough personality to reflect the characteristics of the soil • Tempranillo: coming from old and selected vines • Quality based in a very strict selection of the raw material that allows achieving a constant quality year by year. • All the grape is classified according to: »» Origin: vines from Rioja Alavesa (Elciego, Leza, Laguardia, Navaridas) »» Variety: tempranillo, mazuelo, graciano, garnacha and cabernet sauvignon »» Age of the vine: less than 15 years old; between 15 and 40 years old; more than 40 years old; more than 80 years old »» Colour levels • Marqués de Riscal has as many vineyards as grape suppliers since many generations working with us Hectares of vineyard D.O. Rueda: • 205 Ha of our own Verdejo and Sauvignon Blanc • 250 Ha of external vineyards controlled by the cellar in La Seca, Rueda, Serrada y Rodilana D.O. Ca. Rioja: • 500 Ha of our own Tempranillo, Graciano and Mazuelo Vines. • 985 Ha of external vineyards controlled by the cellar: Elciego,Laguardia, Leza, Navaridas
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www.marquesderiscal.com /bodegasmarquesderiscal
marquesderiscaltv
@marquesderiscal
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O
ver the years, Herve Pennequin has crafted his intricate knowledge of wine by working as a Head Sommelier in some of the world’s best and most renowned restaurants. He holds many prestigious awards under his belt which also includes Best Young Sommelier of France 1989.
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herve pennequin Tell us a bit about your history with wine? I started as a Sommelier right after my military service in France in a 2 Star Michelin restaurant. From there, I was fortunate to work in 2 and 3 Star restaurants in Champagne, Alsace, Paris and Burgundy as Head Sommelier. I directed the wine team of Schillinger, Lucas Carton, Pre Catelan and Amphycles to name of few. In 1997, I moved to the USA to start a new venture that led me to work in famous restaurants in Atlanta, Los Angeles and New York for 17 years. The economy in 2008 hit hard for Hong Kong and with it new horizons took place. Starting at Amber as Head Sommelier, the Hong Kong Jockey Club looked after my background and I’ve been supervising the wine program throughout the club for the last three years, as well as looking after Beijing at the Clubhouse. Tell us when you knew you were going to be a Sommelier? My parents used to own a bar near Lille, North of France. Our selection was very simple, one red Bordeaux and two white wines from Alsace, a Gewürztraminer and an Edelzwicker. One regular guest was coming from Monday to Friday, twice a day, at lunch time and dinner time after work. At lunch, he was ordering the Edelzwicker and after work the Gewürztraminer. I wanted to know why he was drinking two different wines from the same region. He said, “The Edelzwicker being drier; I can still enjoy going back to work while the richer Gewürztraminer would help him to relax before going home and having dinner”. That answer pushed me to learn more and once I did learn more I was hooked to learn and study further. How do you compile your wine list? We are a private membership club and therefore we do not promote wines from obscure regions as we must have turn-over. We don’t have wines standing in our inventory for the reason of having a nice name, coming from a region that is worth exploring. Do you have a preference for new world or old world wines? Since I have spent half of my professional life in both worlds, I have a very opened mind to either based on the time of day, weather that could influence my mood, people that I am sharing wines with, food that I am
preparing. Wine preferences are subjective, but factors that influence our surroundings certainly influence our choice of wine. I doubt you would appreciate a Shiraz near the swimming pool in August in Corsica but a Saint-Joseph a bit chilled, sure why not? If you, personally, could make your own wine and make it anywhere in the world, where would that be and what wine would you make? I’d look for a region where the soil, temperature, surroundings and people are nice to live within. Then make a wine that represents my personality, which I believe to be lively, fresh and always positive. For sure, it will be sunny and close to a nice beach. WINE REVIEW Tell us what you like about the Domaine des Senechaux Rouge 2011? The Cazes family (known for the Château Lynch-Bages and the Relais et Chateaux; 2-Star Michelin Château Cordeillan-Bages in Pauillac) is a great partner to the Hong Kong Jockey Club. And, most of their wines are of great quality, displaying depth and richness while remaining superbly fresh and elegant. How would you pair it? This style of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, made of mostly Grenache noir, has an expressive nose of licorice and the palate reveals a smooth touch of spice and flavors of black truffle and fur. This character matches well with rich and juicy meats such as lamb shank, barbecue ribs or beef stews. What do like about the region it’s from, and about the varietal or style? I love the Rhône Valley. When arriving to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, you both see hills and plains but the remarkable aspect of the soil is quite unique with pebbles almost everywhere. These pebbles assist in gaining the concentration and the ripeness of the grapes as they reflect the heat accumulated during the day back at night to the vines and berries, yet retain most of the freshness. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre are well combined in the region to showcase wine with character that develops fabulous fruit and intensity.
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Domaine des
Sénéchaux D
omaine des Sénéchaux is one of the oldest domaines in Châteauneuf-du-Pape with a history dating back to the 14th century . The identity of the eponymous old men is something of a mystery; they look a little like Rodin’s Burghers of Calais but are, in all likelihood, unrelated. The Estate covers 25 hectares in two excellent areas: 12 hectares near Château la Nerthe and 15 hectares in the Montalivet-Bois des Sénéchaux district, near Château Rayas. The good works to rejeuvenate the estate were initiated by entrepreneur Pascal Roux, but the serious qualitative impulse has, since 2006, been provided by Jean Michel Cazes and his son Jean Charles. The Cazes are, of course, even more famous for their ownership of the superlative Pauillac property Lynch Bages The vineyards have been restored to their former glory and the winemaking facilities have been fully modernised. The imperative, advocated by the father and adhered to by the son, has been , very importantly, to make a classic Châteauneuf-Du-Pape and not to try and make a great Bordeaux wine in the heart of the Rhône Valley. The red is a blend of 90% Grenache, 5% Syrah, 3% Mourvèdre and 2% other varietals. Fermentation is in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats and the wines are then matured in French oak barrels for 12- 15 months, some of which are new. The wines are bottled unfiltered. The white wine only makes up 5% of production; the grapes being Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc and Roussanne, the last of which is fermented in barrique with stirring of the yeast. The white is beautifully perfumed and full of Southern charm. Delicacy and finesse are the bywords here with the wines being accessible in youth although they tend to show at their best with 7-10 years of bottle ageing. Each year they get better.
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Tell us when you knew you were going to be a Sommelier. Actually, when I was in university, I took a Wine Study course. It was then that my interest in wine began. I learned about so many different styles of wine and that the wine really develops even in the bottle or in the glass. Not only can you pair wine with food, but for me, wine can also be paired for different occasions, or even different moods and personalities. What type of training or experience prepared you to become a Sommelier? After I joined the food and beverage industry, I took several courses offered by the Hong Kong Sommelier Association, SOPEXA, and WSET. And even now, I am still studying for a Diploma in Wine and Spirits from WSET. What traits or skills are required to be a successful Sommelier? Of course, tasting, operational and presentation skills are very vital to a Sommelier. All these skills can be learnt. However, the most important is to have a passion for wine. Imagine if a person is lacking passion for what they are doing every day, he or she cannot perform well. In fact, as a Sommelier, it really takes time to update what are the latest trends in the market. And you also need to be a pioneer, by tasting something new, which you can then introduce to your guests. So a Sommelier really cannot be successful without passion. As a Sommelier, you oversee a large bottle wine list. How often do you review your list and how often are you re-tasting your wines? Personally, I am really keen to keep our list up-to-date. A wine list to a Sommelier is like a menu to a restaurant manager. This is our tool to establish our relationship to our guests. As I mentioned before, Sommeliers need to be a pioneer in wine knowledge. This is reflected from the list you have. I try my very best to taste every wine that our guests order, so that I can re-taste the wines on our list quite frequently. What is the most challenging situation you’ve been in or request you’ve received as a Sommelier? Two years ago, we held a wine dinner. At this wine dinner, we needed to open a 15-litre bottle
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of wine. This was the biggest wine that I had handled in my life. It was very challenging for me, as I needed to determine how long the wine needed to be opened before serving. The development of the wine is totally different when it is bottled in a 15-litre bottle versus a normal sized one. So, I needed to decide when to open, and how long it needed to be decanted. But for me, it was a really good experience. WINE REVIEW Tell us what you like about Inniskillin Ice Wine. Ice Wine is very iconic to Canada. Inniskillin is one of the flagship Ice Wines. What I like most is that Inniskillin always produces its wine with a very consistent quality. You can always be assured of the quality of its products. Inniskillin always produces very good balanced sweet wines, which makes you feel you want to have another glass. The Ice Wine has a deep golden colour, which is a very typical colour of sweet wine. From the nose, you can find lots of fresh fruit aromas like citrus, apricot and peach. After you swirl the wine, honey, dried pineapple and mango aromas really come out. Personally, I think this balance of sweetness and acidity is most important for a sweet wine. You will also find the flavor is dominated by fresh fruits like apple, lemon and peach, with a hint of honey and maltose that follows afterwards. What would you pair it with food or occasions? I would definitely pair this nice sweet wine with dessert, especially fruity desserts, - for example a strawberry tart or even a nice fruit platter. As this wine has very good balance of acidity and sweetness with lots of fruit aromas and flavors, I think it goes well with fruit-based desserts. What do you like about the region it’s from? There are a lot of good sweet wine producers in this region. If you are a big fan of sweet wines, this is one of the regions that you cannot miss. What do you like about the varietal and or style? Vidal is a kind of grape that has both good acidity and sugar content. That’s why it always produces very good quality dessert wine.
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alex
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lex Cheung is a Sommelier fuelled by passion, which he believes makes him perform to his highest. With the attitude that Sommeliers should be pioneers in wine knowledge, Alex now works at the Steak House Wine Bar & Grill, at the InterContinental Hong Kong.
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Inniskillin W
hen thinking about wine and Australia, your mind automatically conjures up a big Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz. For Italy, it is Chianti and the classic rope bottomed bottles; and Canada, well Canada has Icewine – or liquid gold as it is known around the traps. Icewine is made from grapes frozen on the vine and then pressed. In order to be called a true icewine, it must meet the standards set by the Vintners Quality Alliance such as the grapes must freeze naturally on the vine, to a minimum of 14°F and 34° Brix. It is becoming more popular outside Canada, with the help of its number one export – Inniskillin, paving the way. The Inniskillin winery, founded in 1975 by Donald Ziraldo and Karl Kaiser was the first winery license issued in Ontario, Canada since 1929. Derived from the famous Irish regiment, the Inniskilling Fusiliers, whose Colonel Cooper served in North America in the War of 1812. On completion of his military service, he was granted Crown land in the Niagara region that he named the Inniskillin Farm – the original site of Inniskillin wines. The first bottle of Inniskillin was made in 1984 after a 1983 setback when bird’s spotted and ate the un-netted juicy ripe grapes set aside for the first vintage of Inniskillin. Just 13 years later the 1989 vintage rocketed to international notoriety when it was awarded the Grand Prix d’Honneur, Vinexpo, France, putting Canadian icewine on the world stage. More recently the 2011 Sommelier Challenge awarded Inniskillin Wine of the Year and Best Dessert Distinction and it entered Drinks International’s “World’s Most Admired Wine Brands” list at 22 this year. Today, the Inniskillin winery is located near Brae Burn Estate on Niagaraon-the-Lake - the same latitude as Oregon and Bordeaux, allowing for naturally warm summers and ripened grapes Inniskillin icewine is an intensely concentrated sweet wine made from grapes naturally frozen on the vine. This process of repeated freezing and thawing during months on the vine, until winter, causes the grapes to dehydrate, altering their biochemical makeup while developing complexity and intensity. The portfolio includes Vidal Pearl Icewine, Cabernet Franc Icewine, Riesling Icewine and Vidal Gold Icewine. Inniskillin Vidal Icewine is produced from a French hybrid grape, Vidal Blanc—a hybrid of Ugni Blanc and French American hybrid Siebel (aka Rayon d’Or). More than simply a dessert wine, Inniskillin is the perfect wine for cocktails, or by-the-glass due to its high acidity, which acts as a natural preservative, allowing it to keep vibrant and fresh for over a month once opened.
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CANADIAN LIQUID GOLD Inniskillin Icewines first gained international notoriety in 1991 when it won the wine world’s most coveted award, the Grand Prix d’Honneur, at Vinexpo, France’s most prestigious wine competition. Inniskillin’s Icewines continue to garner top ratings and have contributed significantly to making Canada the leading producer of genuine icewine.
INNISKILLIN 2007 GOLD VIDAL ICEWINE
INNISKILLIN 2011 VIDAL ICEWINE
92 91 NIAGARA PENINSULA
NIAGARA PENINSULA
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W I N E S P E C TAT O R
WINE ENTHUSIAST
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Please enjoy our wines responsibly. © 2014 Constellation Imports, Rutherford, CA
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