Is Brandy next? By Ken Gargett

IS BRANDY NEXT?

Brandy and Cognac are little different from any premium spirit, although their journey has been more of an evolution than revolution. Time was when this category was about good Cognac one could purchase without a new mortgage, ultra-premium Cognac packaged in crystal decanters and other innovations ensuring sky-high prices and finally, local brandies, most of which had more in common with hospital disinfectants than quality spirits. Possibly a little harsh, but there was little evidence of the exciting products available today. Ken Gargett investigates.

Australian advances in spirits like gin and whisky have made waves around the world. Brandy is in a much more nascent stage, but companies like Angove’s with St Agnes and Yalumba are offering brandies that will surely start to attract similar attention. These players have the definite advantage of time in the game – irrelevant for gin, but essential for whisky, rum and brandy. So, it is especially thrilling when a Tasmanian producer like Sullivans Cove releases its first brandies. Sullivans Cove has released some extraordinary whiskies and has now brought out two brandies, the Single Cask and the Double Cask (as one would guess, one from a single cask – $275 – and one from two casks – $190). What is fascinating is that they decided to go in the opposite direction from what the French have been doing for centuries – blending a wide array of components from subregions and vintages. Obviously, very limited in quantity, this is a project which started around a decade ago when they distilled some 40 casks of Huon Valley wine (grapes such chardonnay and pinot noir, as well as sauvignon blanc and gewürztraminer) in French oak casks. Now, we have the fruits of their labour (or at least, the results provided by Father Time). These are great Aussie spirits. St Agnes is now reaping due reward for its decades-long persistence with brandies. They are now in a position to offer XO brandies that are 15-Years-Old ($111), 20 ($200) and an astonishing 40-Years-Old ($750), regular stars on the show circuit. Richard Angove is fully aware of the work that has gone in, over the years. “We are extremely lucky to have such amazing aged XO resources to put these blends together. We have a clear purpose… to show the world another face of Australian produce excellence by crafting iconic Australian spirit of worldclass standard”. The distillery was established in 1910 and they have been producing brandies, in the lighter style, since 1925. Cognac has an even longer history. These days, it is larger seen as the preserve of gentlemen’s clubs, leather chairs and cigar lounges, or Asian casinos – both unfair, of course, though Cognac’s popularity in Asia gives the sector a serious boost and the Houses often target these communities in countries around the world. Australia has seen the category increase 13 per cent over the 20102015 period. While one can access smaller producers, Cognac tends very much to be an entrenched category. The great distilleries have led the sector for good reason. They have unparalleled resources, both in their own vineyards and those growers with whom they deal. They have mindboggling material in their cellars, barrels of Cognac happily maturing away, often for many decades and sometimes even longer. Names like Hine, Hennessey, Martell, Rémy Martin and Courvoisier have achieved legendary status for good reason. These Houses look to the great vineyards, Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne as they are known. The real skill, developed over generations, is the ability

to blend, much like a chef de cave in Champagne. They need to ensure that their creations are not only of the finest quality, but that they reflect the House style. House DNA is essential to longterm success. Rémy Martin created the very first VSOP in 1927. Their XO is composed of more than 400 components, known as eaux-de-vie. While tradition is an integral part of the operation of any House, they look to new products whenever the opportunity arises. Hennessy now offers their ‘Master Blender’s Selection N°3’ ($105), a single-batch cognac made by 8th-generation Master Blender, Renaud Fillioux de Gironde, who took the reins in 2017. Martell have just released their ‘Blue Swift’, a Cognac matured in French oak and finished in Bourbon casks. Hine has also recently added to its range with the ‘H by Hine’ ($100), a Cognac they like to describe as ‘whimsical’. Each to their own. It is, however, a Cognac that is designed to attract a younger audience and one which can be used in cocktails. For a more traditional style, their ‘Antique XO’ ($300) is a superb, traditional style. Brandy and Cognac may be seen as traditional spirits, limited by the perceptions that they themselves have created, but we have seen what happened with gin over the last decade. We know that anything could happen.

REVIEWS:

HINE ANTIQUE XO COGNAC

A really serious and superb Cognac. Baked apples, mild chocolate, nuts, raisins and figs. The oak gives up an unobtrusive vanillin, cedary character. Delightful creamy texture.

‘H BY HINE’ COGNAC

A younger Cognac but an ideal one for anyone keen to dip a toe into this sector. Pleasing fruit notes. Excellent for cocktails and a lighter, fresher drink over ice, if the mood requires.

HENNESSY VS

A slightly lighter, fresher, very easy to enjoy style of Cognac, that is excellent value.

SULLIVANS COVE SINGLE CASK XO

Tiny production but more than worth the chase. A hint of oak, with cinnamon and various spices, plus nectarines, vanilla and glacéd orange. Brilliant stuff. The Double Cask XO is slightly lighter and not as complex, but a joy, nonetheless.