THE MAGAZINE FOR MANAGERS, SOMMELIERS AND BARTENDERS EDITION 28 AUSTRALIA TASTINGMEZCAL WITH PHIL BAYLY, GLOBAL MEZCAL AMBASSADOR drinks.world AU Australia HK Hong Kong SG Singapore PH Philippines DXB Dubai LADIESLIQUORIN We chat to some of the industry’s best CLASSICSFUTURE We announce the winner PISCO Peru’s national spirit
4 ° DRINKS CREDITSCreditsWORLD Publisher Ashley Pini ashley@drinks.world Production Manager Sasha Falloon sasha@drinks.world General Manager Melinda Virgona EDITORIAL Associate Editor Hannah Sparks Assistant Editor Lukas Raschilla Online Editor Rachel Tyler Editorial Assistant Mary Parbery DESIGN Art Director Evelyn Rueda Senior Designer Racs Salcedo SALES National Sales and Marketing Manager Chris Wheeler chris@drinks.world Sales Manager Nathan Field nathan@hipmedia.com.au Market Manager (Asia) Danny Yang danny@drinks.world DRINKS Drinks Curator Ben Davidson (Bespoke Drinks) PHOTOGRAPHY Photographer: Jana Yar (Ensof Photography) CONTRIBUTORS Writers: Ashley Pini, Ben Davidson, Phil Bayly, Jenna Hemsworth, Josie Healy, Lindsay Trivers Produced and published by Editorial Enquiries: If you, your bar, or your brand and company have news or events you would like to share with Drinks World please contact: ashley@hipmedia.com.au and/or sasha@hipmedia.com.au
FRONT COVER: Phil Bayly, Global Mezcal Ambassador, Agave Love Founder. Story on Pages 20-25.
Although Hip Media endeavours to ensure the accuracy and correctness of the information and Drinks World and www.drinks.world, we do not accept any liability or responsibility for any inaccuracies or omissions. The views expressed by authors of publications or event presentations, published Drinks World, do not necessarily represent the views of Hip Media. Decisions or actions based on the information and publications provided by Hip Media are at your own risk. drinks world drinksworld
I hope you enjoy this edition, and look forward to your feedback – and votes – for the upcoming T25 in your country. Stay informed at www.drinks.world and don’t forget to vote.
DRINKS WORLD ° 5 Welcome
AshCheers,Pini
On the eve (at time of writing) of International Women’s Day we’ve delved into the world of Ladies in Liquor and talked to some of the industry’s best about how they got ahead in the trade and what they love most about what we do.
Every time we perch ourselves at the bar and plan the coming edition of Drinks World we are reminded what a great industry we work in, and what a wonderful opportunity we have in putting together a publication that crosses borders and speaks to bartenders and sommeliers not only across Asia Pacific, but as far afield as Dubai and now Ireland. We’re five years old and have made it half way across the planet…so welcome to edition 28 of Drinks World and the first edition of 2017. Our calendar for the year is already looking busy with an exciting line-up of events across the region and further afield. We’ll be announcing our Top 25 bartenders in Australia, Hong Kong, Singapore, and Dubai for the first time. After an overwhelming response to the list, we’ve decided to reach out to the talent in the Middle East, where quality bars are opening and the standards are being set for international bartenders to come to the Emirates and get amongst it. For the sommelier community, we’ll be getting the low-down on the hottest regions and best wines in the South Pacific when we attend ProWine Asia in Hong Kong (May 8 - 11); RPB in Singapore (July 18 – 20); and Melbourne International Wine Competition (June 11). But before we get too ahead of ourselves, we’ve got another great issue of the magazine right here. We recently held a mezcal tasting at Tio’s in Sydney with a number of industry experts, including Phil Bayly who was recently named as a mezcal global ambassador. In this edition, we also celebrate everything that is Pisco, page 26, IPA beers on page 35, and a look at stocking and serving red wine on page 41.
DRINKS WORLD ° 7 12 Spring Court Footwear Competition 13 Future Classics Cocktail Winner 16 Sydney Cider Cocktail Competition Contents News Competition 08 What’s Happening? 35 74 Confessions of a Bartender Meet 47 Sam Egerton 52 Ladies in Liquor 56 Leo Gutkowski 58 Larry Guevara50 Faye Chen 48 Lee Applbaum Visit Food & Drink 68 Jerky 71 Cocktail Club 60 Dubai Bars 63 Venue Profiles 20 5271 29 47 4868 26 Feature 20 Mezcal 23 Mezcal Tasting 29 Footwear – What Bartenders Wear 26 Pisco – Peru’s National Spirit 32 T25 Hong Kong 44 Jenna Hemsworth –Opinion 35 IPA All The Way 41 Red Wine Storage and Serving 38 Prowine Asia Wine and Spirits Trade Show
8 ° DRINKS WORLD ° NEWS °
HAPPENING?
WHAT’SNESPRESSOPRORANGE
PENALTY RATE REFORMS
NEW SYRUPSMONIN
SUEY SINS OPENS IN SYDNEY’S SURRY HILLS
A piece of 1920s Shanghai has opened in Sydney’s inner city Surry Hills suburb. Suey Sins is tucked away on Campbell St and offers sensory cocktails and Asian fusion small eats. This bar is named after a famous Shanghai call girl, the venue offers sensory cocktails and Asian fusion small eats inside a pre-war Shanghai inspired atmosphere, complete with neon lighting and urban street arts. The kitchen at Suey Sins is open until 12am each night making it perfect for a late night feed. Suey Sins is open Wednesday to Sunday from 12pm – Late Level 1, corner of Campbell & Elizabeth Street, Surry Hills.
MONIN have added two new products to the range: Le Fruit de MONIN Pineapple and Le Fruit de MONIN Cherry. Le Fruit de MONIN Pineapple is sweet and tangy with a hint of acidity and perfectly captures this fruits tender flesh. The Le Fruit de MONIN Cherry brings you the just-picked flavour of ripe, summersucculentcherries. With its abundance of taste and colour, in any cocktail, it will take you back to the sunny days of childhood. Both Le Fruit de MONIN Pineapple and Cherry are Available in 1L PET bottle For more information contact Stuart Alexander, MONIN sales representative on 1800 225 417/ ncsc@stalex.com.au
In February 2017, the Australian Fair Work Commission (FWC) ruled that Sunday and public holiday rates will be reduced for full-time and part-time workers in the hospitality, retail and fast food sectors. For hospitality, Sunday pay rates were reduced from 175 per cent to 150 per cent while Public holiday rates were reduced from 250 per cent to 225 per cent. Casual workers will have also had rates reduced from 275 to 250 per cent on public holidays. Work Sundays or Public Holidays or own a venue? Send us your thoughts on the penalty rate reforms. Email lukas@ hipmedia.com.au with your take.
Nespresso has launched new coffee Espresso Caramel and Espresso Vanilla as part of its Professional range, giving restaurants, bars and hotels a wider flavour variety to offer their patrons.The two flavours have enjoyed huge success in the in-home market, prompting Nespresso to make them available to professional customers. Nespresso business solutions commercial manager Stefan Vermeulen said, “The hospitality industry is always seeking new ways to delight customers with exceptional coffee experiences. With this in mind, we have developed two new flavoured coffees, which can be enjoyed alone or combined with milk to create interesting recipes for today’s coffee connoisseurs”. Espresso Caramel and Espresso Vanilla are based on the Espresso Forte, with an intensity of seven. The vanilla flavour has a full and slightly caramelised aroma of vanilla, while the caramel flavour mellows the roasted notes of the Forte for a coffee reminiscent of browning sugar. Espresso Caramel and Espresso Vanilla are now available to all professional Nespresso customers in Australia. For more information, visit www.nespresso. com/pro.
Sydney’s Bondi Hardware celebrated its fifth anniversary with a huge re-launch bash, inviting 200 locals, media and celebrities to gain the first glimpse of the refreshed venue.
DRINKS WORLD ° 9
www.twobirdsbrewing.com.au
The launch of PALE also heralds a revamped look and feel for the Two Birds brand, with each of the core ranges featuring new look illustrations that depict its origins. The full rollout will take place throughout 2017.
BONDI HARDWARE RE-LAUNCHES
TWO BIRDS PALE Two Birds Brewing has launched their latest brew, simply called PALE. The pale ale style brew is something the fans of Two Birds have been crowing for since the successful reception of their Oaty McOatface Pale Ale specialty brew last year and is brewed with flaked and golden naked oats. The roll out of PALE comes in conjunction with the announcement of a new bottling line the brewery have had installed, which will allow Two Birds to perform smaller packaging runs more often, meaning the beer will be getting out to the world as fresh as possible, as well as doubling their capacity
Also refreshed is the venue’s menu offerings, the team reworking some of Hardware’s most popular dishes and serving guests a taste on the night. Dishes include lime-cured Kingfish tostadas with kimchi paste, avocado, nori dust; and crispy lamb salad with hummus, feta, Israeli couscous and pear. Bondi Hardware, 39 Hall St, Bondi Beach NSW 2026. bondi-hardware.com.au.
The new-look Hardware has a more boho vibe, with lush greenery, Moroccan textiles and a fresh white palate throughout.
SouthTrade International have launched the first ever Southern Comfort Travelling Tales Cocktail Competition in Australia to find the next preeminent, original cocktail.Paying homage to New Orleans, the birthplace of Southern Comfort, Travelling Tales invites bartenders from across the country to enter an original Southern Comfort-based cocktail inspired by an authentic story for their chance to be crowned Australia’s national champion.Thetenbest entries from New South Wales, Victoria, Queensland, South Australia and Western Australia will be chosen to compete in the State Finals from May 9-17. They will then go head-to-head for a place in the National Final on Tuesday June 13 in Sydney, with two finalists progressing from each state. The winner will receive a trip to the Big Easy for the world’s premier cocktail festival, the 15th Annual ‘Tales of the Cocktail’. They will also take in an exclusive tour of the Southern Comfort Distillery.Travelling Tales is open to all bartenders. Entries are now open State Finals and close on 16 April. Entries are limited to three (3) per person. To enter, visit updates.followsoutherntalescompausoutherncomfort.com/and#SouthernTalesfor
10 ° DRINKS WORLD
° NEWS °
DAWINE Australian Wine Distribution Company DAWINE Limited has commenced trading under its own name on the ASX, after completing the Reverse Take Over of Brand New Vintage Limited. DAWINE is focused on the rapidly expanding Asian wine market, and has developed a platform to target the wine retail market in the region. With DAWINE, consumers in China now have the opportunity to purchase authentic wine from around the world via their personal computers, tablets and mobile phones. The platform addresses nationwide distribution capability, which is a traditional issue with wine distribution in Asia, with established distributors having predominantly provincial capabilities. For more information visit: www.dawine.com
BAR JOSEPHINE, MELBOURNE’S LATEST CRAFT BEER VENUE Footscray in Melbourne’s west has welcomed the latest venue to the suburb and the only dedicated craft beer bar in the area, Bar Josephine. The venue houses 12 taps, all rotating, featuring both local and international craft brews, with the locals’ favourite, Footscray Ale by West City Brewing almost always on tap. Josephine will also play host to regular tap takeovers, and is open from 1pm-1am seven days a week. A short but sweet cocktail offering and tight wine list round out the drink selections that can be enjoyed in the eclectic beer garden or if you’re in the mood feel free to take a book off one of the shelves and curl up on a couch. 295 Barkly St, Footscray VIC
SOUTHTRADE ANNOUNCES SOUTHERN COMFORT ‘TRAVELLING TALES’ COCKTAIL COMPETITION
DRINKS WORLD ° 11
NewSpringintosomeKicks
° COMPETITION °
Last issue Drinks World ran a competition to see who could create a Future Classic Cocktail – see opposite for more details. This issue we thought we would run a comp giving away a pair of shoes in conjunction with our shoe feature, which you can check out on page 29. Thanks to our friends over at Spring Court, you can win a voucher for a brand new pair of B2 Canvas shoes valued at $150. To be in the running take a photo of your workmate’s most haggard and beaten up shoes – those in real need of replacing, and send it in. For bonus points, take a photo of your co-worker’s face where we will name and shame them in the next edition of Drinks World! So, if you have a work mate with the absolute worst pair of shoesyou know, the ones that are one thread away from falling apart, and look like a new Rottweiler pup had a crack at destroying them, feel free to send in a photo and win a pair of shoes for them. That way you won’t have to take one look at those nasty shoes again! Send images and details to lukas@hipmedia.com.au
The winner will receive a pair of Spring Court B2 Canvas shoes, valued at AUD $150 TERMS AND CONDITIONS Entry is open to Australian residents only. Prize is a pair of B2 Canvas shoes from Spring Court, and is not able to be traded, taken as cash or put towards store credit.
12 ° DRINKS WORLD
THAT’SNOW CLASSIC!FUTUREA
DRINKS WORLD ° 13
ALEX ARCHIBALD: I originally came up with this drink as a riff on a blood and sand. I believe it’s got the makings of a modern classic because the specs are easy to remember, most good cocktail bars should have all the ingredients or be able to make them easily. It’s approachable but still interesting enough, and of course it’s just damn tasty! DW Editor Lukas Raschilla, DW Drinks Curator, Ben Davidson, and Hip Media’s Chris Wheeler got together to deliberate and chose the winner. After seeing Alex’s entry, Davidson commented, “Now that’s a future classic! Sounds Looksbeautiful”.like we’ll all be trying to get down to Seamstress in Melbourne in the near future (no pun intended) to see Alex behind the stick to try out The Bloodthorn. In the meantime, check out our cocktail innovation feature on page 73, as we look at how drinks have evolved, and dare say it, the future of drinks. DeLorean at 88MPH not required.
In the last issue of Drinks World we ran a Future Classics Cocktail Competition where we asked bartenders to send in their recipes for what they think may be a future classic. We received a ton of cracking recipes and it was hard to arrive at one winner. These recipes may well go alongside modern classics such as the Penicillin and Old CongratulationsCuban. to Alex Archibald of Melbourne who we think has a future classic with The Bloodthorn cocktail (check out the recipe on page 73).
DRINKS WORLD: Where did you get the inspiration for the creation?
° COMPETITION °
COMING SOON! 2017
What makes the T25 awards unique are that they are judged by industry experts and after the initial round of voting, the list top 100 are reduced to 25 with peer on peer voting. WHO WILL BE ON THE ESTEEMED JUDGING PANEL?
THE
Australian venues house some of the most talented bartenders in the world, encompassing service, creativity, innovation and professionalism. And we all know that it’s the staff and service that make a venue what it is.
WHO WILL MAKE THE T25 FOR 2017? WHAT BRANDS WILL BE INVOLVED? Watch this space for the latest on the T25 Australia. The T25 are the awards judged by the industry itself. The judging panel will shortly be announced on drinks.world ahead of the official T25 Drinks World magazine and, of course, our T25 launch party! No one parties like bartenders party, so it’s sure to get rowdy. We look forward to hosting the second edition of T25 Australia and honouring and partying with those adjudged to be the top 25 bartenders in the country.
DRINKS WORLD ONCE AGAIN CELEBRATES THE FINEST IN OUR INDUSTRY WITH T25 AUSTRALIA. T25 AWARDS HONOUR 25 INDIVIDUALS WHO ARE RECOGNISED BY THEIR PEERS AS EXCEPTIONAL IN THEIR FIELD.
Three bartenders will then be selected by the judges to compete in the Grand Final of the competition, held at Crowne Plaza in the Hunter Valley with accommodation included. The WINNER of the Grand Final will receive the ultimate VIP experience for two, featuring two nights accommodation in a luxurious villa at the Crowne Plaza Hunter Valley, a round of golf at the picturesque 18-hole championship course, dinner for two at The Lovedale complete with a bar tab with ‘all you can drink’ Sydney Brewery beer and cider. In addition, the winner will be taken on a tour of Sydney Brewery’s Lovedale Brewery, and of course you won’t go home empty handed – a couple of cases of Sydney Brewery ciders are included for you to enjoy at home and share with friends and family, or all for yourself – we won’t tell!
SYDNEY CIDER COCKTAIL COMPETITION
16 ° DRINKS WORLD
Hosted by Sydney Brewery, a contemporary cocktail competition to highlight the versatile flavours of Sydney Cider and Agave Ginger Cider. This event invites bartenders across NSW to showcase their creativity with the chance to progress to the semi-final (and be one of six semi-finalists) at The Cidery Bar World Square.
° COMPETITION °
DRINKS WORLD ° 17 CRITERIA FOR ENTRY: • 60ml minimum of Sydney Brewery Sydney Cider or Agave Ginger Cider must feature in the creation • A maximum of five ingredients (including cider) can be used LOCATION:SEMI-FINALSThe Cidery Bar & Kitchen, Rydges World Square DATE: Tuesday 4th April 2017 TIME: 4.00pm - 6.00pm LOCATION:GRAND-FINALCrowne Plaza Hunter Valley DATE: TBC pending finalists’ availability 2017 TIME: 4.00pm - 5.30pm To enter, simply email your recipe to Sydneycocktail?NeedEntriesromanticisephoto,comcocktailcomp@sydneybrewery.withyourcocktailname,and10wordsorlesstous!closeonMarch282017.samplestocreateyourContactRichardatBreweryon0412288144
Kindred Beverages’ Vizor Schnapps range is Australian made and owned, and produced using custom built extractors to deliver a premium product. Vizor has launched the world’s first Peanut Butter Schnapps to the market. Yes, you heard right, peanut butter schnapps.
For enquiries visit us at enquiries@kindredbeverages.com.au and for orders contact ian.kingham@kindredbeverages.com.au
PEANUTVIZOR SCHNAPPSBUTTER
PEANUT BUTTER & JELLY Ingredients:TIME • 30ml Peanut Butter Schnapps • 20ml Chambord • Soda to top Garnish: Jelly Baby Method: Build ingredients over cubed ice. Glassware: Tall
Glassware: Martini
18 ° DRINKS WORLD
Peanut Butter Schnapps goes wonderfully in cocktails, or as an addition to desserts. As there are no peanut products or peanut butter in the bar, this means that Vizor’s Peanut Butter Schnapps is nonallergic, and safe to be used around those who have an allergy to peanuts and prone to anaphylaxis.
PEANUT BUTTER AND CHOCOLATE MARTINI Ingredients: • 45ml Chocolate Schnapps • 20ml Butterscotch Schnapps • 30ml Milk • 20ml Chocolate Sauce Garnish: Chocolate Powdered Rim Method: Add all ingredients to a shaker. Shake and strain into a martini glass.
In addition, the Vizor Schnapps line of products includes apple, butterscotch, chocolate, coffee, peach, and raspberry. Available through Kindred www.kindredbeverages.com.auBeverages.
DRINKS WORLD ° 19 An in-depth look at the everythingtoindustryhappeningwhat’sinthefromtrendslifestyle,andinbetween.
FEATURES
The agave family of spirits, in the recent past, has been dominated by the industrial spirit of tequila, produced from one single species of agave and using more technologically efficient methods of production to get the most yield per hectare. In the last few years, however, there has been a renaissance in the understanding of the origins of mezcal and the artisanal distilling traditions in the southern Mexican state of Oaxaca, which produces an incredibly complex and delicious spirit to be respected, savoured and enjoyed sparingly, largely due to the rarity of the ‘wild harvested agaves’ and the very small batch production methods. ° MEZCAL THE RETURN OF THE ‘PRODIGAL SON’
• BLANCO: The Young, un-aged, formerly known as “Joven.”
• REPOSADO: Aged in barrels for between two and 12 months. The wood does not have to be oak. The label can state the amount of time it has been aged.
The new changes that have come into effect state that mezcal is defined as, “A Mexican alcoholic beverage, 100 per cent maguey, obtained by means of the distillation of juices fermented with Mexican yeasts, whether spontaneous or cultivated, and juices that have been extracted from the mature cooked heads of magueys, harvested within the territory included in the Denomination of Origin, mezcal”.
THERE ARE NOW SIX CLASSES OF MEZCAL
20 ° DRINKS WORLD
• ABOCADO CON: Mezcal to which ingredients are used to add flavors, such
• Mezcal means, “cooked maguey” and thus, according to its origins, traditions and even the meaning of its name, all maguey used to produce mezcal must be cooked prior to beginning the fermentation process. This means that diffusers, while still technically allowed, must be used only after oven or autoclave use. Any species of maguey can be used to produce mezcal but not all are suitable.
SOME FACTS ABOUT MEZCAL
• MADURADO (Matured): Aged in glass for a minimum of 12 months. The label can state the amount of time it has been aged.
WORDS ° Ben Davidson & Phil Bayly
• Mezcal must be between 35% to 55% ABV.
WHAT IS MEZCAL?
° FEATURE
All certified mezcal has a NOM on each label, similar to tequila and is certified by the CRM (Mezcal Regulatory Council). Mezcal must be bottled at its place of origin and may not be exported in bulk.
• The CRM (Consejo Regulador de Mezcal) regulates the production of Mezcal similar to the CRT (Consejo Regulador del Tequila)
Confused yet? In 1994, mezcal achieved its recognition as a Denomination of Origin, and can only be produced in eight states of Mexico.
• Mezcal can only be produced with 100 per cent agave.
• AÑEJO: Aged over 12 months, in any size or type of wood vessel. The label can state the amount of time it has been aged.
Traditionally, all alcoholic beverages made from Agave were called Vino de Mezcal, similar to how Cognac is a type of Brandy but not all Brandy can be called Cognac. Tequila was a Vino de mezcal but true mezcal was not tequila.
• Export of mezcal in bulk form is prohibited.
The Mezcal category has been under review of redefining its original NOM 070 (Mexican Standard) of 2005 for a number of years. In July 2016, it was finally revised for the benefit of the category.Thereason for this is that mezcal has undergone huge changes and popularity in recent years. What we originally understood mezcal to be - as a cheap and fiery spirit - is in most cases no longer relevant. Whereas Tequila is moving in to the future in the sense of how it can be refined and aged, mezcal, on the other hand, is moving back to its roots of a traditional artisanal spirit. The most prized examples are produced by the village in tiny copper or even claypot (Filipino style) stills in small batch productions, this tradition has been passed down by generation of Mezcaleros (the name given to the producers).
The definition of mezcal in its simplest form is; the Mexican standard NOM-070-SCFI-1994 regulates the production of mezcal and implies the denomination of origin, which limits the production of agave spirits to be called mezcal to the following Mexican states: Oaxaca, Guerrero, Durango, San Luis Potosí, Zacatecas, Guanajuato, Tamaulipas, Michoacan and Puebla.
• Mezcal is the largest DOA in the world covering approximately 500,000 square kilometers, and any species of agave can be used, as long as it is grown in the Denomination of Origin areas.
THERE ARE CATEGORIESTHREEOFMEZCAL:
MEZCAL ARTISENAL Its elaboration must comply with at least the following four stages and equipment:
DRINKS WORLD ° 21 Mezcal, or should I say artisanal mezcal, could be defined as the single malt of agave spirits; complex, rich and full of flavour PHIL BAYLY
A) Cooking: cooking of heads of maguey or agave in wells or raised masonry.
C) Fermentation: hollows in stone, soil or trunk, masonry basins, wooden or mud vessels, animal skins, which may include the fiber of maguey or agave (bagasse).
A) Cooking: cooking of heads or juices of maguey or agave in wells, masonry or autoclave. B) Grinding: tahona, Chilean or Egyptian mill, sugar mill, canker, mill train or diffuser.
C) Fermentation: wooden containers, masonry basins or stainless steel tanks.
D) Distillation: stills, continuous distillers or columns of copper or stainless steel.
MEZCAL Its elaboration must comply with at least the following four stages and equipment:
D) Distillation: with direct fire in stills of copper boiler or pot of mud and montera of clay, wood, copper or stainless steel; Whose process may include the fiber of the maguey or agave (bagasse). as maguey worm, damiana, lemon, honey, orange, mango, among others, should be incorporated directly, provided they are authorized by the corresponding Agreement of the Ministry of Health • DISTILADO CON: Mezcal to be distilled with ingredients to incorporate flavors, such as turkey breast or chicken, rabbit, mole, plums, among others, in terms of the present Official Mexican Standard. Only the mixture of mezcal of the same category and class is allowed.
B) Grinding: with mallet, bakery, Chilean or Egyptian mill, mill or harrow.
DRINKS WORLD MEZCAL ANCESTRAL Its elaboration must comply with at least the following four stages and equipment:
TYPES OF AGAVES
TEPEXTATE: One of the larger agaves used in mezcal production, this plant can take up to 25 to 30 years to mature. It tends to grow in high altitudes above 2,000 metres and has huge, broad and twisted leaves. The mezcal produced from tepextate is intense in flavour and is often heavily perfumed, like the gewürztraminer grape.
ARROQUEÑO: This very large agave may reach maturity in anywhere up to 20 years. The mezcal produced from this agave often has a candied aroma, can tend to be earthy, and often finishes with a bitter chocolate note.
TOBAZICHE: It looks like a yucca plant with a thin wooden trunk that can reach two metres high and is a member of the Karwinskii family. It has no piña, as do other varieties of agaves, instead, the trunk is cooked in earth ovens. It produces very little juice but has very intense flavours. An average plant can take anywhere from 20 to 25 years to grow.
A) Cooking: cooking of heads of maguey or agave in wells.
Harvested agave
AGAVE ANGUSTIFOLIA OR ESPADÍN: The Agave Espadín is the most common variety of agave used in the production of mezcal in the state of EspadínOaxaca.ismost often farmed rather than wild, and it can take between eight to 10 years to mature. It is the predominant variety of agave used in mezcal production simply because of the time it takes to grow, and the volume of sugars it can produce. It is believed to be the genetic parent of blue agave, which is used for tequila, and makes the most approachable of mezcals. It can vary significantly from one village to another. This is because each village will have its own unique elevation and microclimate or terroir that affects the end result. Some mezcals from higher altitudes may have higher, lighter notes. Lower elevations may have deeper, richer notes. Flavour profiles will depend on the vegetation and surrounds of the Palenque (distillery) where the airborne yeast will inoculate the sugars of the agave in the open fermentation tanks.
TOBALÁ: Considered the rarest of the agavaceae family, tobalá is cherished by many mezcaleros. It is very small in comparison to other varieties and yields limited quantities of intensely aromatic mezcal. It tends to choose rocky soils, and grows wild in high altitudes, preferring the shade of trees. Tobalá propagates itself only through pollination, it does not send out rhizomes, unlike other varieties of agaves. It relies on bats and other insects to distribute its seeds and pollinate.
B) Grinding: with mallet, bakery, Chilean or Egyptian mill.
MADRECUIXE: Another member of the Karwinskii family, is fast growing and can mature in less than six years, usually found in the dry southern central valleys of Oaxaca. It grows tall and has a thick trunk, similar to a yucca plant; its piña is similar to a huge baseball bat. Madrecuixe mezcal has a green character, often with herbal and vegetal notes and subtle aromas.
MEXICANO: This is a sub-variety of agave rhodacantha that prefers to grow in moist areas and at lower elevations and produces a mezcal that tends to be very complex and both sweet and savoury. The plant can take up to 10 years to mature. It’s worth it.
22 °
DOBADAÁN: More commonly known by its botanical name, rhodacantha, Dobadaán prefers to grow in pine and oak forests, and can be found from Oaxaca to as far north as Sonora.
C) Fermentation: hollows in stone, soil or trunk, masonry basins, wooden or mud vessels, animal skins, which may include the fiber of maguey or agave (bagasse).
One of the factors that make mezcal so interesting is the variety of agaves or magueys that may be used and the different characteristics each one has. Somewhat confusingly there are often two or more different names for the same agave, depending on the traditional or scientific reference. Here is a list of the most well-known varieties:
well known towns for producing mezcal is Santiago de Matatlan in the central Valley of Oaxaca, where some 100-plus brands are produced in small palenques or Otherdistilleries.villages and regions also in the central valley of Oaxaca include Teotitlan, San Baltazar Chichicapam, Sola de Vega, San Juan del Rio and San Luis del Rio. Each village has its own unique climate and in some cases style of production. So it would be wise to go and try them all!
D) Distillation: with direct fire in pot of mud and montera of mud or wood; whose process may include the fiber of the maguey or agave One(bagasse).ofthemost
•
• MANUEL
MEZCAL PANEL TASTING
• BEN
LEFT TO RIGHT: Manuel Terron, Alex Gilmour, Reece Griffiths, Phil Bayly, Jose Ponce, Ben Davidson
The variety differentflavourscomplexityandoffoundinmezcals can be baffling to the senses, especially when the varietal characteristics of a mezcal can be altered significantly by the terroir and the methods of production. No two mezcals taste the same.
DRINKS WORLD ° 23 ° FEATURE °
Here at Drinks World, we thought it was fitting to get some of the most well-known mezcal and industry experts together for a tasting of this beautifully crafted agave spirit. Our friends over at Tio’s Cerveceria in Sydney’s Surry Hills were happy enough to host us for a tasting and education on mezcal. A selection of mezcals made from different varietals were chosen including Espadín, Madrecuixe, Tobala and Mexicano variants. Aiming for a diverse range of flavours, the panel tasted each mezcal and provided some insight on the characters and profiles. Let’s take a look at some of the finest mezcals and their flavour profiles and what the panel’s thoughts were.
THE PANEL: PHIL BAYLY - Global Mezcal Ambassador, Agave Love Founder GRIFFITHS - Agave Cartel Jefe & Operations Manager, East Village Hotel ALEX ‘HAPPY’ GILMOUR - Agave Spirits Guru & General Manager, Tio’s Cerveceria TERRON - Spirits Guru at Large PONCE – Mezcal Importer & Educator DAVIDSON Drinks Curator, Drinks World
• JOSE
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• REECE
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Magazine
50% ABV Vago Espadín is made from cultivated agaves in the hills above the border of Central Valley and Sierra Sur, Oaxaca.
Espadín is the most prevalent agave type found in Oaxaca, with its ease of cultivation and high sugar content making it ideal for the production of mezcal. Espadín is the genetic mother of the Blue Weber Agave used in the production of tequila. Vago Espadín is an artisanal mezcal made in the lower elevations of the Yegolé valley, which contributes to the complexity of the mezcal with the terroir influence shining through. It has balanced notes of sweet potato, minerals, smokiness and bright citrus flavours.
40% ABV Ilegal Joven Mezcal is a beautifully balanced artisanal mezcal from Tlacolula, Oaxaca. It is made by a fourth generation mezcalero and his family using 500-year-old methods. Joven, meaning ‘un-aged’, is the purest expression of mezcal. Ilegal Joven is made from 100 per cent Espadín agave. It has deep agave aromas, with hints of green apple, citrus and white pepper.
Available through Artisan www.artisanhandcrafted.com.auHandcrafted
Available through Vanguard Luxury Brands vanguardluxurybrands.com.au
24 ° DRINKS WORLDILEGAL
•PANELManuel
JOVEN
DEL MAGUEY MINERO
•PANELJose Ponce has nothing but admiration for Del Maguey Minero, stating it is a “Wonderful geographical representation with a vivid profile. Full artisanal and can be enjoyed sipping with friends or for a special occasion.”
• Manuel Terron noted, “Such an approachable and character-driven product, mix in with a splash only”.
• Jose Ponce felt this mezcal had a classic smokiness and is ideal for beginners as well as a benchmark. He said, “It gives a very uniform profile of mezcal.”
Terron said the Ilegal Joven had characteristics of grilled pineapple, caramel, burnt sugar and light spices. With its subdued intensity, it can be enjoyed neat or on the rocks.
• Phil Bayly noted bittersweet, intense, mint and butterscotch flavours with a buttery dry finish, suggesting that the “Terroir has probably given the main characteristics.” Bayly suggests the best way to enjoy this mezcal is to simply drink it straight, as does Jose Ponce.
49% ABV Del Maguey produces artisanal mezcals in the original handcrafted way through deep cultural relationships with Zapotec Mexican Indian producers in remote villages of Oaxaca. The Del Maguey Minero from Santa Catarina Mina is produced in a still made of clay with bamboo tubing, rather than traditional copper stills. Made from the Espadin agave, the Minero has a nose of flower essence, vanilla and figs, with a burnt honey flavour and lemon. It has a deep, warm and sweet finish. It is also distilled to proof, so the ABV varies slightly between batches.
• Phil Bayly said “It is salty, fruity and approachable. Fresh and sweet with a dry finish”.
• Phil Bayly noted the influence of the terroir and clay pot still, citing “Huge intensity and complexity.” Bayly found the Minero to have smoke, bittersweet, fruity menthol and burnt orange liquorice characters, best enjoyed straight up.
• Alex Gilmour suggested using Illegal Joven in cocktails and long drinks with its sweet orchard fruit and light vanilla character. Available through Vanguard Luxury Brands vanguardluxurybrands.com.au
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VAGO ESPADÍN
• Alex Gilmour notes that the ceramic still has influenced the flavour, which he found to be brine like and sour with rockmelon notes. Ideally enjoyed neat.
•PANELReece Griffiths found notes of menthol, green dried herbs, black tea and bitter chocolate. Ideal for sipping or citrus driven cocktails.
Available through www.mextrade.com.auMextrade
•PANELReece Griffiths found the Wahaka Tobalá to have juniper, black pepper and citrus notes, best enjoyed when sipped.
DRINKS WORLD ° 25 DEL MADRECUIXEMAGUEY
47% ABV Traditional, artisanal mezcal forms an important part of rituals, ceremonies and festivities - known as ‘Jolgorios’ in villages in the native homeland of Oaxaca. Nine unique El Jolgorio Mezcals are made exclusively from different species and varieties of wild and semiwild harvested agave by Maestro Mezcaleros in local villages in Oaxaca and are twice distilled in copper pot stills. The El Jolgorio Mexicano is an artisanal mezcal made using Agave Mexicano, which is a relative of Agave Espadín and grows very large. The agaves are crushed by tahona, open fermented and doubledistilled. This mezcal is extremely complex and has a long finish.
• Reece Griffiths found notes of aniseed, fennel and cheese in the characters of this mezcal, suggesting it should be sipped.
•PANELPhilBayly was familiar with this, straight away letting us know that this is a mezcal “Too good to mix,” and should only be enjoyed straight. Bayly was able to find notes of pineapple, tropical fruits and butterscotch.
47% ABV A limited edition from Del Maguey’s Vino De Mezcal series, made in lush, remote San Luis del Rio, Oaxaca where the Red Ant river flows. Madrecuixe is a wild, tall, cylindrical maguey like Tobasiche with leaves that grow from the ground up as opposed to Tobasiche that sheds its lower leaves as it grows, leaving a bare dry cylindrical piña. These mature Madrecuixe that are used are then earth-roasted, fermented with airborne microbes, twice distilled, unblended in the original, centuries-old Oaxaca handcrafted way. This is a rare, wild-harvested mezcal, medium-bodied with a long, clean, dry finish.
Available through Spark Group www.sgspark.com.au
Conversely, Manuel Terron noted its spicy and briny taste would suit a cocktail like a Dirty Martini.
• Manuel Terron noted that it was “Deep and intense with a persistent finish that goes on for minutes.”
• Alex Gilmour thought the El Jolgorio was more suited to being consumed neat or on ice, with its “Waxy, apple, fennel, salt and eucalyptus” notes coming though.
•PANELJose Ponce found this mezcal to be a great benchmark, calling it “A warming and complex mezcal with botanical notes.”
• Reece Griffiths similarly suggested only sipping this liquid, noting the process of how it’s produced giving it “Massive, intense green flavours.”
• Manuel Terron found the Madrecuixe to have “Light citrus characteristics with candied notes. Quite dry, yet leaves a lovely lingering flavour”. • Jose Ponce said, “Everything that matters comes through; exceptional flavour profile from varietal hibiscus botanicals.” Ponce also noted that it is “An ideal mezcal to be used in an educational masterclass as a ‘wild harvested’ benchmark.” Available through Vanguard Luxury Brands vanguardluxurybrands.com.au WAHAKA TOBALÁ 42% ABV Wahaka master distiller, Maestro Alberto ‘Beto’ Morales, calls the Tobalá one of the most difficult agaves to work with, noting that it “will treat you the same way that you treat it.”
• Alex Gilmour noted mild smoke and spice flavours in the Tobalá that are best enjoyed neat.
EL MEXICANOJOLGORIO
Found exclusively on high mountain cliffs and peaks, this wild agave is not only much smaller than other agaves, it’s also the most difficult to find and harvest. No other agave produces the variety of aromas and flavours as the Tobalá does, giving this mezcal an immediately distinguishable aroma and explosive taste enriched with sweet floral and herbaceous notes.Theartisanal Wahaka Tobalá has a bright smoky cigar, smoked cherry, chive and herb cheese aromas with a silky, dryish, medium-tofull body and a wonderful cigar ash, grassy and sweet cream driven with a lengthy finish.
• Phil Bayly enjoyed the light, fresh, herbaceous, sweet, fruit character that is very approachable. “The varietal has huge influence,” he commented.
MOSTO VERDE: This is a premium style of pisco distilled from partially fermented grape juice. With around 20 per cent residual sugar at the time of distillation, the mosto verde style has a sophisticated, smooth and velvety palate. It takes more grapes per litre, is more work and more expensive to produce, and as such is seen as the cream of the crop in the pisco category.
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Pisco is a spirit distilled from the first pressing of fermented grape juice. While oak barrels feature prominently in the flavour profiles of whiskies, brandies and rums, one of the key differences and in fact one of a number of very strict regulations that govern the production of pisco is that it cannot have contact with wood at any stage of the production process. While technically classified as a brandy, pisco is a crystal–clear white spirit made without the addition of wood or any other flavouring. In essence, the final product is a unique pristine grape eau de vie expressing the original flavours of the grapes used to make it.
PURO: Pisco puro is produced from a single grape variety. Any of the eight grape varietals can be used, however, the majority of pisco puro - around 80 per cent - is made using the non-aromatic grape variety quebranta.
ACHOLADO: The acholado style of pisco is made from a blend of two or more grape varieties. An acholado can be made from a blend of pisco puro or mosto verde, but never from a mixture of both.
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PISCO FEVER
STYLES OF PISCO Under the Peruvian Denomination of Origin (DO), pisco can only be made from eight grape varieties, four of which are classified as non-aromatic and four as aromatic. The DO further stipulates that these grapes can only be grown in five coastal regions of Peru including Ica, Lima, Arequipa, Moquegua and Tacna. All eight grape varieties used to make pisco are variants of the original grapes brought by the Spanish conquistadors to make wine for the holy sacrament during the mid-16th century.
WHAT EXACTLY IS PISCO?
THERE ARE THREE STYLES OF PISCO:
WORDS ° Ben Davidson & Josie Healy
26 ° DRINKS WORLD Pisco has long been established in cocktail culture, namely with the Pisco Punch and Pisco Sour, which date back to as early as the 1870s for the former and 1920s for the latter and ended up taking Hollywood by storm thanks for fans John Wayne and Ernest Hemmingway. Pisco is produced in neighbouring Chile, but the spirit’s origins and history are synonymous with Peru.
The DO states that pisco can only be made using wild, naturally occurring yeast present on the grapes at the time of harvest. Made only from the first pressing of the grape juice with all of the skins, seeds and stems being discarded. This practise sets pisco apart from grappa and other styles of brandy made from the pomace left-over from wine production. Produced from a single distillation in a small, copper alembic still, the final distilled product must be between 38-48% ABV, with no water – or anything else – added at any stage. After distillation, the pisco must rest or ripen for a minimum of three months stored only in vessels that will not influence the flavour or aroma.
PRODUCTION
Both the South American neighbouring countries of Peru and Chile make pisco today. Although it was the port city of Peru where pisco took its name, the production of Peruvian pisco went into decline in the early 20th century. At that time, Chilean pisco production continued to grow until more recently when Peruvian pisco has re-emerged to lay claim to be the original pisco.Buthow do they differ? Each country has their own Domination of Origin with different specifications, resulting in a final product that is completely different in flavour and style. Chilean pisco is produced in large batch continuous distilleries. Their pisco may be aged in wood, does not need to be distilled to proof, and can be made using a range of 14 different grape varieties as opposed to the eight Peruvian grape varieties.
CONSUMPTION OF PISCO
PERUVIAN VS. CHILEAN PISCO
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Pisco can be consumed in a large number of ways; sipped neat, as an aperitif or digestif, or in an array of cocktails. Pisco is most commonly consumed in the Pisco Sour, Pisco Punch and Chilcano, a favourite drink of Peruvian’s youth – two shots of pisco, lime juice, dry ginger ale, bitters and Variationsice.on classic cocktails with pisco as the lead spirit are also common, with drinks like El Capitan - a take on a Manhattan with pisco used in place of whisky. Similarly, the Pisco Negroni uses pisco in place of gin or the Pisco Mojito, where you guessed it, pisco is used instead of Cuban rum! In Australia, The Pisco People are the number one boutique importer, distributor and online retailer of premium Peruvian piscos. Sourcing the best piscos available from Peru and building relationships with the producers, all piscos imported by The Pisco People are sourced with a “grape to glass” ethos, meaning the producer controls every stage of the process. Some of the great piscos now available through The Pisco People include Cuatro G’S, Pisco Portón, De Carral and Viñas de Oro. Another fine range of pisco is from Campo de Encanto from the Ica Valley in Peru, available through Vanguard Luxury Brands. Drinks World’s drinks curator, Ben Davidson, says pisco has a fascinating history with its grape growing and winemaking origins, its simple alembic distillation retaining the vibrancy of the raw materials. Since its beginnings, soon after the Spanish arrival in South America, it has ridden a rise in popularity only to decline for a while and then come back again. From its origins as a type of Peruvian brandy, it was given the name pisco from the area around where it was being produced, with the name pisco synonymous with the spirit and the place and soon became the most popular spirit in the region and other Spanish outposts during the earlyFrom1800s.1830, pisco and its related cocktails became incredibly fashionable in San Francisco, California and New York. By the mid-1870s, during the gold rush, pisco was by far the most popular drink in San Francisco even though it was sold for twenty-five cents a glass – a high price for those days! The most famous drink of the day was Pisco Punch, invented at the famous Bank Exchange in San Francisco. In 1889, Rudyard Kipling described the taste as “Shavings of cherub’s wings, the glory of a tropical dawn, red clouds of sunset and fragments of lost epics by dead poets”.
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GET
The Mosto Verde Quebranta is a deluxe option for making a traditional Pisco Sour or for sipping while you enjoy your favourite cheese, chocolate or dessert. The luxury of the packaging backs up the quality of the product in the bottle.
When it comes to premium brands of pisco, Portón ticks all the boxes. Handcrafted in Bodega Hacienda La Caravedo, the oldest working distillery in the Americas, Pisco Portón is one of the most awarded spirits in the world.
The Pisco People is an Australian leading boutique distributor, wholesaler and online retailer of premium pisco from FollowingPeru.extensive travels through South America (and many, many tastings), Josie Healy, founder and director of The Pisco People arrived at the conclusion that the very best piscos come from the process that adheres to the Peruvian Denomination of Origin. After 12 months living and working in South America, on her return to Australia Josie recognised the lack of premium pisco offerings as a business opportunity. Before launching The Pisco People in November 2015, Josie spent many months sourcing the best Peruvian pisco products available and building relationships with pisco producers who have been recognised nationally and internationally for the quality of their products. With exclusive distribution rights to five of the very best brands of Peruvian pisco, The Pisco People have a portfolio of 14 different piscos, which represents the most extensive range of pisco in Australia.
“Each pisco expresses an incredible diversity of flavour based on the variety of grapes used, as well as the unique terroir and style of each bodega. As versatile as any spirit on earth, pisco can be used to create unique and flavourful mixed drinks and cocktails, and the best piscos can also be enjoyed neat or on the rocks”, says drinks expert Fred Siggins who worked with The Pisco People to develop their portfolio.
For example, the oldest and most commonly produced style of pisco in Peru, the nonaromatic quebranta grape creates a pisco that is rich and earthy. The single varietal quebranta produced by Cuatro G’S is complex and flavourful, providing the perfect base for making traditional pisco sours, chilcanos and pisco tonics. In contrast, Viñas de Oro’s Quebranta is more fruit-driven, but still has a great earthy structure for a traditional Pisco Sour or an Apple Twist made with pisco and cloudy apple juice.
Expressing a completely different flavour profile, Cuatro G’S Mosto Verde Italia, made from an aromatic Italian grape, produces a pisco with bright floral notes and a well-rounded, smooth mouthfeel. Used in the original Pisco Punch invented in San Francisco’s Bank Exchange Hotel during the California Gold Rush, Healy says, “We’re proud to say that The Pisco People is the only Australian importer of this delicious and historically significant pisco.”
28 ° DRINKS WORLD
The De Carral products in The Pisco People’s portfolio are made by a fourth-generation family of pisqueros and represent the height of sophistication and quality for artisanal craft piscos. The Quebranta offers an intricate fruit nose and an expansive palate full of spices and earthy funk; the Italia is minty and dry with a fine, elegant structure and beautiful green flavours, perfect in a Southside, while the Acholado is seductively light in flavour, showing excellent minerality, making it perfect for Martinis and other alcohol-forward cocktails.
Presented in a heavy-footed square bottle that has a clear glass window with a reverse silkscreened graphic of Hacienda La Caravedo, the bottle is a definite attention grabber on the back bar. For more information, visit the website www.thepiscopeople.com.au or contact us via email info@thepiscopeople.com.au to book in for a tasting or staff training. FROMPISCOYOURTHEPEOPLE
Shoes to last the distance
DRINKS WORLD ° 29
Like it or not, the hospitality industry involves being on your feet…a lot! Whether it’s bartending, bar backing, serving tables, bussing, or back of house, 12 to 14 hour shifts with little breaks are not uncommon. So, what shoes should you wear to get you through those long shifts and hours on your feet?
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Antonio Lai’s gold trainers
JAY KHAN (Foxglove, Hong Kong): Ecco Leather Shoes (comfy and flexible)
ANDREW BENNETT (Lucky Chan’s, Perth): It varies depending on the venue’s uniform standard but the common denominator is definitely water resistance. I learned the hard way through many soggy soles that the usual bar environment is a wet one and considering a shoe’s water resistance is an absolute must behind the bar.
ALEX ROSS (Operations Manager for Next Week Group): I’m a big fan of skater kicks. They have thick soles that wear well, they’re super comfy, and you can wear them for seriously long shifts. At the moment I’m wearing my beloved Palladium boots, however their soles wear quickly and can be slippery. But seeing as I’m spending more time sitting than standing, it doesn’t seem to matter that much.
30 ° DRINKS WORLD What is the best type of shoe to wear to work? We asked some of the industry’s finest what kicks they like to rock at work, be it the comfy runner or ever-reliable leather shoe with tough soles. Here’s what they said: DRINKS WORLD: What type of shoes do you wear for your shift on a daily basis?
ANDREW: Generally leather, as I’ve found them more comfortable and easier to keep dry. You miss the comfort of sneakers but you can find some pretty good leather options that will go the distance and not look like nerdy school shoes.
RINNA: I believe that it depends on which venue I’m working at. If I am at a classic whisky bar, fine dining restaurant, or hotel bar I would definitely wear leather shoes. Whereas, I’d rather wear runners if I’m working at a high-volume venue, pub, or nightclub.
DW: Do you prefer to wear runners or leather shoes to work? And why?
RINNA KATO (Bartender Consultant and Director of BARPORT Australia): When I was at Blackbird, I used to wear black runners. Blackbird is a high volume venue, so I rather wear something suitable and comfortable for lots of movement.
JACK SOTTI (Boilermaker House, Melbourne): Boots all the way, Doc Martens or Timberlands are a good go to. Need strong toes for doing things like lifting kegs etc., and solid arch support.
DALE SCHOON (Earl’s Juke Joint, Sydney): Just some trusty Doc Marten 1461’s.
JACK: Don’t change footwear but a change of socks is a godsend!
DALE: Our shifts are always pretty long, but I tend to get away with wearing the same footwear.
JAY: Leather. Most of the time I need to walk out of the bar to ask for guests about their drink and service. It looks more professional to wear leather.
JACK: Leather finish, as they just look a little smarter. Runners are too casual.
ALEX: A little hot tip is to buy those gel inner soles you can get from the supermarket and chemist. I swear by them. They are lifesavers, especially if you are working on super hard surfaces (or are ‘blessed’ with shitty flat feet like I am). If I had patience and endurance I’d break in a pair of Doc boots as they can last a lifetime. But I’m not really known for my patience... Have a work mate with the absolute worst pair of shoes? You know, the ones that are one thread away from falling apart, and look like a Rottweiler pup had a crack at destroying them. Thanks to our lovely friends over at Spring Court, Drinks World are providing one bartender with a brand new pair of kicks. To be in the running take a photo of your workmate’s most haggard and beaten up shoes – those in real need of replacing, and send it in. For bonus points, take a photo of your coworker’s face where we will name and shame them in the next edition of Drinks World! The winning entry will win a pair of Spring Court B2 canvas shoes, valued at $150. Send images and details to lukas@hipmedia.com.au
Spring intosome new kicks
DALE: Leather. Bobby Carey once gave me a pair of New Balance shoes that didn’t fit him and I was scared it would be a gateway to sneaker collecting. Plus the Docs are waterproof, so no soggy feet when it comes to scrubbing the floor.
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RINNA: Sometimes I still have to wear uncomfortable leather shoes for a double shift if I’m working at a venue like a hotel bar just to look more professional. But if the venue or event is more casual....like a music festival, I would prefer to wear runners.
ThePRIZE:winner will receive a pair of Spring Court B2 Canvas shoes, valued at AUD $150 TERMS AND CONDITIONS: Entry is open to Australian residents only. Prize is a pair of B2 Canvas shoes from Spring Court, and is not able to be traded, taken as cash or put towards store credit.
DRINKS WORLD ° 31
DW: If you know you’re going to be working long hours, such as an event or double shift, do you change your footwear?
ANDREW: Generally no. If I took my shoes off mid shift, the feeling would be too enjoyable to put them back on. Gotta tough it out for that feet-upand-beer-feeling at the end of the night.
32 ° DRINKS WORLD COMING SOON!
DRINKS WORLD ° 33 ° FEATURE °
The voting for the 2017 edition of T25 Bartenders Hong Kong has now finished, with the Top 25 announced on drinks.world
For those that weren’t aware, this year’s edition of T25 Hong Kong has slightly different criteria, aimed at showcasing the next generation of bartenders emerging in the country. To be eligible, bartenders must be currently working in a bar and cannot be a bar owner, bar manager or operator, as well as fulfilling a minimum of two shifts per week, and aged under 30. With so many talented bartenders in the city and a progressive and innovative bar scene, it was difficult arriving at the Top 25 to shortlist. Congratulations to all who made the list. As always, the T25 bartenders will be challenged to make a signature cocktail. This year, T25 Hong Kong welcomes Little Creatures as the official brewery sponsor.
THANK YOU TO ALL OUR SPONSORS FOR BEING INVOLVED IN T25 HONG KONG FOR 2017
WORDS ° Lukas Raschilla
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WORLD ° 35
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One of the older styles of beer, India Pale Ale (IPA) is a now a staple across bars. While places with limited taps may not go so far as to put an IPA on tap, having a couple of options in packaged form for the hop lover is a necessity. With origins linking to the British Empire, brewed in a fashion to withstand long voyages from the UK to distant parts of the Empire like India, IPAs have a higher alcohol content, IBU, and hoppy, bitter taste.
• IAN KINGHAM, Sales Director - Institute of Beer NEAL CAMERON, Director of Education - Institute of Beer DANIELLE ALLEN, Co-Owner, Two Birds Brewing RICHARD ADAMSON, Co-Owner, Young Henrys CLINT ELVIN, Co-Owner, Bucket Boys Craft Beer Bottle Shop
The category has come a long way, and now features variations on IPAs including citrus and fruits such as grapefruit, pineapple, and tangerine flavours, along with black and coffee
WhileIPAs. it’s impossible for venues to stock endless varieties of beers to please every patron, here are a few that our panel chose as standouts. Having some canned and some bottled choices gives the customer choice if they have a preference. We got together with some of our favourite beer folk to taste some IPAs. These were some of our top choices. The panel featured some of the most knowledgeable beer industry people and included:
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36 ° DRINKS WORLD ° FEATURE °
Danielle Allen tasted “Big hop aromas, fruit salad and a fresh hop profile.” Clint Elvin commented, “Nice big hop aroma and dank, fresh, piney notes. Good fruity hop flavour with good length. Good, solid IPA.”
Thanks Captain Obvious is an American style IPA using simcoe, citra and centennial hops with pine, floral and tropical notes. Neal Cameron said, “You certainly know you’ve drunk an IPA. A real standout, great punchy hops and supportive malt.”
BrewCult Thanks Captain Obvious IPA, Melbourne, VIC Format: Bottle ABV – 5.8% IBU - 40
Oskar Blues IPA, Colorado, USA Format: Can ABV - 6.43% IBU - 70 Hailing from the Rocky Mountain state of Colorado, Oskar Blues IPA uses Australian hops along with malt barley and red wheat to create a clean malt backbone. Neal Cameron noted a “Well-structured and well-made IPA that is highly drinkable”.
Ian Kingham noted lychee, sublet toasty malt with orange, lime and lemon bitterness, and what he called an “Excellent example.”
Fixation IPA, Byron Bay, NSW Format: Bottle ABV – 6.4% IBU – 65 Fixation is a true representative of an American style IPA, made with breiss and weyermann malts, simcoe, amarillo, citra and mosaic hops.
Ian Kingham and Danielle Allen both noted that the West Coast IPA was spritzy, while Kingham called it “easy drinking.”
DRINKS WORLD ° 37
Clint Elvin found this beer to be slightly citrusy with nice, well-rounded resin, a bit spicy with a light and slightly bitter aftertaste; “A nice, easy, well-done IPA, NZ style.”
Richard Adamson agreed, noting aromas of pine and honeydew, “Full bitterness with an aftertaste of malt sweetness. An easy drinker.”
Ian Kingham enjoyed the light, good hop notes and hints of spice and clean fruit notes and mild finish. Danielle Allen noted “Honey and hop aromas. Tastes of melon and honeydew. Well-balanced.” Neal Cameron said, “A good, full-flavoured IPA. Great example”.
Batch Brewing Co. West Coast IPA, Sydney, NSW Format: Bottle ABV – 5.8% IBU 80 Batch Brewing Co.’s West Coast IPA is one of the permanent fixtures in its range and is dry on the palate and thirst quenching, made with centennial and chinook hops, which provide a fruit base, while mosaic hops come through with hints of pineapple and tropical stone fruit.
Rich Adamson noted that it has a huge NZ hop aroma, fruity and piney, with firm bitterness and balance; “Stands out for using different hops.”
Pirate Life IPA, Adelaide, SA Format: Can ABV – 6.8% IBU – 60 Pirate Life IPA has a round, full-bodied malt character of pale malt, munich and crystal. Made with centennial, riwaka and simcoe hops, it is bright and fruity.
ProWein Düsseldorf’s size and industry reach has it ranked as the most important trade show in the world of wines and spirits. The ProWein platform now encompasses the flourishing markets of the Asia-Pacific through a family of wine and spirits trade shows across Shanghai, Singapore and Hong Kong.
A GLIMPSE OF PROWEIN WORLD ProWein World’s expansion has sparked considerable interest from exhibitors and suppliers searching for new opportunities throughout Asia’s fast-growing markets. ProWein World has effectively abetted exhibitors to enter the fast-evolving wine and spirits marketplace of Mainland China through ProWine China, the annual trade-show taking place at SNIEC in Shanghai. Just as the markets of the surrounding regions continue to develop at break-neck speeds across the Asia-Pacific, the addition of ProWine Asia was a natural and welcoming addition to the list of high quality and
WORLD’S NO. 1 WINES AND SPIRITS TRADE SHOW COMES TO HONG KONG HONG KONG – PREMIER WINE HUB OF ASIA
38 ° DRINKS WORLD
PROWINE ASIA 2017
ProWine is the number one wine and spirits trade fair and largest industry meeting place in the world, and continues to engage and connect a global network of trade professionals. ProWine Asia, the newest addition to the ProWein World Platform, is set to take place in Hong Kong on May 8–11 2017.
The international wine industry has shown profound excitement as Hong Kong becomes the newest addition to ProWein’s global familyexcitement builds as exhibitors and buyers from various continents hear the news of ProWein World’s pronouncement to incorporate Hong Kong in 2017. HKSAR’s infrastructure, location and free-trading benefits provide a tremendous opportunity for business expansion in Southeast Asia, sparking anticipation among ProWein network’s producers and suppliers who quickly confirm participation, duly keen to partake in the region’s most exciting wines and spirits trade event.
SOURCING FROM A WORLD OF WINES IN HONG KONG
DRINKS WORLD ° 39 professional trade shows in the industry. ProWine Asia’s enablement of trade development in the APAC region does so by spanning the affluent trading centre of Singapore and Hong Kong in biennial fashion.
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ProWein World’s expansion evolved quickly into the ProWine Asia biennial trade-shows, which bridge Singapore and Hong Kong – two Southeast Asian economic powerhouses that represent the most open and exuberant trading hubs in Asia for the past 50 years across a multitude of industries. As the pace of buying power, wine knowledge and appetite for wines and spirits consumption increases throughout the Asia-Pacific, the thriving countries and regions quickly become golden eggs of industry development, climbing quickly to top-priority for producers and suppliers from all corners of the world. Producers and suppliers from the major wine regions of France, Italy, Spain, Germany, Portugal, Austria, Greece, Australia, Chile and Canada quickly confirmed participation.
Producers and suppliers from around the world come with sourcing and business-growth mindsets, as well as China and Southeast Asia in their crosshairs; the prospect of connecting with the booming markets of China and Southeast Asia is too great to overlook.
Southeast Asia’s consumption power is coupled with a young generation of savvy wine connoisseurs, tremendously eager to learn, taste and experience the sophistication wrapped around the renewed culture. Trade visitors from China and other parts of Southeast Asia are eager to source from such an international selection of wines and spirits in the tax-free HKSAR, especially following the successful debut of ProWine Asia in Singapore last year.
PROWINE ASIA 2017 VISITOR PRE-REGISTRATION IS ONLINE ProWine Asia 2017 Online Visitor Registration is now officially open and can be accessed through the Visitor Services Section of the ProWine Asia website. Trade visitors are encouraged to preregister for the show to streamline their trade show experience and avoid waiting to access theVisitorsexhibition.who register online will receive a complimentary four-day show admission pass to ProWine Asia as well as HOFEX 2017 with one entry badge. A complimentary Buyers’ Guide will also be provided to pre-registered visitors, which contains a full preview of the exhibition and programme highlights. Complimentary Business Matching Services will also be provided.Savetime and maximise your trade show experience: pre-register online before visiting ProWine Asia 2017. Further Information: www.prowineasia.com/hkwww.facebook.com/prowineasiahk °
PROGRAMME PACKED WITH AN ALL-STAR CAST
ProWine Asia 2017 features an on-site programme filled with renowned opinion leaders, trade organisations and associations including Jancis Robinson’s seminars and hosted tastings, Asia Wine Industry summits by Debra Meiburg, trade forums and seminars by Hong Kong Wine Chamber of Commerce, CRU and Whisky Magazines, with other events and developments to come. The event schedule is an amalgamation of forums, masterclasses and tastings, which are designed to benefit both new and experienced trade professionals. These onsite events focus on a range of topics including under-appreciated wine varieties and regions, ways in which we can judge certain wines and spirits and retail trends and e-commerce solutions which look forward to the future of an evolving industry.
ProWine Asia 2017’s collocation with HOFEX, as the dedicated wine and spirits sector and region’s leading food and hospitality exhibition, promises enormous opportunities for business connections between the wines, food and hospitality industries. The exciting collaboration is set to generate business synergies between suppliers and importers, while bringing highquality, professional buyers to ProWine Asia.
° SPONSORED
40 ° DRINKS WORLD Hong Kong is recognised as the premier gateway to a wealth of markets across the Asia-Pacific. News of ProWine Asia 2017 taking place in HKSAR sparked swift confirmation for participation by a world of wine and spirits producers eager to present their products and solutions to a diverse audience of importers and power buyers from Southern China, Macau, Taiwan, South Korea and Japan.
Drinks World spoke to some of the finest sommeliers about red wines, what to stock, correct storage and serving techniques. Shiraz is often the go-to red or house red that will appeal to the majority of customers.
WALLACE LO, Sommelier at The Park Lane Hotel, Hong Kong: For restaurants, I think it is always best to have a small wine fridge to keep wines by the glass standing in it and I am a strong believer in the Coravin system. For by the bottle wines, I will say the best conditions are to store in the storage of the vendor and I prefer to order more frequently than keep high stock;
IAN URQHART, Sommelier at The Avoca Hotel, Pyrenees: We are extremely lucky being located no more than 20 minutes drive from any of our wine suppliers so we don’t need to carry large stock of any particular wine. The method we choose to store each wine depends upon the frequency of sale. High value and older vintage wines are either stored in their cases in a special storage area or racked on their sides in our general cellar room. Faster moving wines and wines that are available for off-premise sale are stored upright on shelving within the cellar room for easy identification and access. Wines that are sold by the glass are also stored in that
STORAGE Storage can be a difficult one, making sure you have enough to complement a menu and appeal to your market.
Storage is key to longevity and getting the most out of your wines and serving them in optimum condition.
Additionally, cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir will cover most bases. For those with more room, cabernet merlot and malbec are great to offer scope.
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RED StorageandServing
For venues with smaller spaces and storage, stocking as little as three reds can suffice. When asked about which varieties venues should stock, Ian Urqhart, Sommelier at The Avoca Hotel in Victoria’s Pyrenees region said, “I have no particular preference as long as the wine is well made and representative of its origins. That said, our list is almost exclusively local-wine focused because of our position in the heart of a wine region.”
Whether you’re a larger establishment with a dedicated sommelier on deck or a small bar with limited capacity, a tight but ample selection of red wine will be enough to please even the most discerning whiny (winey, sorry).
° FEATURE °
DRINKS WORLD: What do you believe is the most efficient way to store red wine (particularly wines that are served by the glass)?
I take less risk like damaging the label when pulling wine out in a super packed wine fridge.
ALAN: For the smaller places, if the red wine is kept for just a few months in storage and there’s no wine cellar, there are ways to store red wine that won’t damage it. Hightemperature damages wine less than extreme temperature changes. To avoid this effect, switch the air conditioning or temperature difference between day and night so it remains stable. Red wine can be kept in a styrofoam box and can also be placed inside a cup of wet sand, keeping a stable humidity level.
° ° Wallace Lo, Sommelier at The Park Lane Hotel, Hong Kong
IAN: We don’t really have a storage space problem here but in our previous restaurant things were a bit tighter. We found that the best practise was to only carry as much stock on hand as we believed we would sell in two or three days even if this meant only having one or two bottles of any given wine.
WALLACE: Have better bar stock management, make sure every item on the list is moving and rather than buying ten wine fridges, it’s better to build a walk-in fridge; it works much better, as the door doesn’t need to keep opening and closing during inventory day.
FEATURE
42 ° DRINKS WORLD way, but the stock is split so that some bottles are always available in under-bar shelves to be opened for pouring. Open bottles are kept on display on shelving at the back of the bar.
ALAN SUN, Hotel Sommelier at the Mira, Hong Kong: I think the best way for wine storage is to keep it in the wine cellar. The most important thing is the ability to maintain a stable temperature, away from sunlight, making sure the wine is free from vibrations and keeping the humidity level stable. The ideal temperature is about 10 to 15 degrees Celsius. Thermal expansion and contraction can happen due to temperature change, accelerating the oxidation of wine. About 70 per cent is the best humidity for wine storage, because if it’s too wet the cork will easily rot and if it’s too dry the cork will lose its elasticity, which in turn means there’s not a tight seal on the bottle. Even wine served by the glass should be stored in a wine cellar.
DW: How can venue owners make the most of a small storage space?
For those who have not seen nor heard of the Coravin system, it is the only tool in the world that allows access to wine from a bottle without pulling out the cork. This technology gives venue operators the ability to pour one glass at a time, while the remaining wine in the bottle is left unspoilt for months or even years to come. The Coravin system uses a medical grade needle and a capsule of argon gas to pour a bottle of wine through the cork. The cork is never removed. This helps prevent oxidation, increasing the longevity of the wine. It accomplishes this by first inserting a hollow needle through the cork. The user then presses a trigger to pressurise the bottle with argon gas. When the user releases the trigger, the wine pours into the glass. The needle is removed from the cork, a naturally elastic and porous material, which then reseals, protecting the wine from oxidation and leaving the remaining wine unaffected.
For wines that are served by the glass, I think the best way is to use the Coravin for service. As the Coravin wine system allows you to pour your favourite wine by the glass, without pulling the cork. With no oxidation, this preserves your wine over weeks, months and longer.
TECHNOLOGY AND INNOVATION IN WINE
After selecting a bottle of wine to taste, quickly press the trigger to clear the needle of oxygen. Push the needle down through the cork to access the wine. To pour, tilt the bottle as you would pour wine normally. Press and release the trigger to pour the wine. Repeat when the flow slows or stops. Return bottle to an upright position.
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CORAVIN SYSTEM
ALAN SUN Hotel Sommelier at The Mira, Hong Kong
HOW TO USE CORAVIN
44 ° DRINKS WORLD ° OPINION °
Jenna Hemsworth
The death of the female bartender
Being female doesn’t define who I am or what I do.Inthe bartending community, I’ve noticed massive leaps and bounds in the last five years or so toward vocalisation of gender equality. And, surprisingly, the men are taking the lead on this one. From simple acts such as calling out inappropriate behaviour in a bar when they see it, to actually penning articles on the importance of feminism in our industry, our male peers are making a concerted effort to make sure women are represented fairly and equally. By all means, I’m not saying that we need men to fight our battles here - I’m just saying that as a unified whole, the message is infinitely stronger than if we were to speak alone. We’ve all come across those who still insist on acting inappropriately, whose bigoted belief systems will seem impossible to challenge, but speaking up and speaking out is really the first step in the re-education and rehabilitation of these toxic and out-dated attitudes. Ask any of your female peers, I am positive they will have a litany of horror stories regarding sexism in the workplace.Thefactis, we work with alcohol, we serve alcohol, and we deal with intoxicated people on a constant basis; and in an environment where inhibitions are lowered, a lot more problems are likely to surface. A problem such as consent is something we see a lot working behind bars. Keeping our guests safe and providing an environment in which they are able to enjoy themselves is our priority, so speaking up when we see something that’s not quite right is essential.
WORDS ° Jenna Hemsworth
AUSTRALIA
AU
Honestly, I think it’s time we move on from focussing on this issue altogether and work towards a little bit more respect for everyone across the board. AU
In my career, I’ve been highlighted as a ‘female bartender’ more often than I can count. I’ve been outspoken against gender equality in the workplace and more than vocal with my experiences with sexism and discrimination in the workplace and online. I hope that we’re at a point now where my female peers and I don’t need to be referred to as ‘female’ anything, and we don’t have to keep hearing stories of bullying and intimidation, of being relegated to floor staff while the guys ‘man the bar’, or being groped or hit on seen as ‘part of our job’; our position merely nothing more than ‘eye candy’ for our male customers.
Rape culture in the bartending community is also something we really need to address. Who hasn’t heard of a peer complaining of how they were ‘raped last night’, when they really mean they had an incredibly busy service? Rape implies lack of consent. Doing your job and getting paid for it does not. I don’t like being referred to as a female bartender. It implies I’m doing a great job in my field despite my gender. My gender doesn’t affect my profession, how I serve people or how I make drinks. So by highlighting my gender in regards to my achievements, you’re insinuating that somehow makes me more or less worthy of praise for excelling in my field. I sometimes wonder if I would be as successful as I am if I were a male, or more so? Am I singled out because I am one of the minority females? Or am I being held back because of my gender?
The simple act of turning down a man’s advances can escalate to being verbally abused and belittled, as has happened to me on multiple occasions behind the bar. My job is to be friendly, conversational and an entertaining host to my guests. This does not automatically grant consent to be hit on or harassed in any situation. Yet somehow, when the girl behind the bar is giving you attention and making your drinks, it is seen as an invitation to make unwanted advances.
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eventBleueBoulangerieGooseGreytheatHemsworthJenna
46 ° DRINKS WORLD Get to know industry legends and the faces and minds behind brands and venues, as DW chats to key players from across the region.
MEET
° MEET °
EGERTONSAM
DW: Is there still room for innovation in cocktails in the future?
SE: I think innovation in drinks should be more centred with the bartender themselves. It is time for us to challenge our industry and the way we treat it and ourselves. We have so much potential for positive change and effect on the industry and the broader community, I think we need to realise this.
In his role as head of operation at The Paddington in Sydney, Sam Egerton, along with Toby Marshall and the talented bar staff at Charlie Parker’s design the cocktail menu. Utilising technological innovations to create in-house infusions, along with native foraged ingredients, Charlie Parker’s put their own spin on classics as well as create signature bespoke small-batch drinks. Drinks World sat down with Sam to chat about his approach to cocktail innovation.
DW: One of the ways businesses can differentiate themselves is through innovation. Was that the plan for the new offering at Charlie Parker’s?
DRINKS WORLD: What does cocktail innovation mean to you?
SE: Due to the close proximity of some very talented chefs we have access to rotary evaporators, vacuum chambers, a blast chiller and variety of other pieces of equipment that help us execute flavour. This knowledge, technique and technical approach has allowed us to include beeswax, schist, sea succulents, old books and a variety of other left of center items to create a flavour experience.
SAM EGERTON: One of the core beliefs of Charlie Parker’s is that ‘We Always Strive For Originality’ - this doesn’t mean that we want to create something that no one has ever done before, but rather that we constantly look for ways to improve on what we do at Charlie Parker’s - be that service, product or otherwise. I think that innovation in this sense is intrinsic to life at Charlie Parker’s, it keeps the team motivated and engaged as nothing is left to sit still.
One of the in-house infusions at Charlie Parker’s
DW: Do you mind mentioning some of the innovative elements and the approach you took in capturing the flavours of unique and unusual ingredients?
AUSTRALIA AU
SE: Charlie Parker’s drinks concept is a collaboration of ideas, with a lot of roots in the kitchen. Influenced in concept by the French botanical drawing to delineate flavour expectations (from lighter fruitier flavours down to dark and bitter), as well as representing a top to tail approach to using produce.
DRINKS WORLD ° 47
The menu is constantly evolving and lead by the season with ingredients used when they are in their peak season. We utilise a technical approach to deconstructing ingredients and reassembling them into clean-lined and full flavoured drinks.
° SPONSORED ° KONGHONG HK
48 ° DRINKS WORLD Lee Applbaum, Global Chief Marketing Officer at Patrón Spirits International was recently in Hong Kong and caught up with Drinks World’s Danny Yang to chat about tequila, the market in South East Asia and the Patrón Perfectionists Cocktail Competition.
LEE APPLBAUM
LA: We’re proud that Patrón has been so successful in Hong Kong; it’s popular among the trade and consumers here. And so, of course we’ll continue to invest and grow our brand here. Also, you’ll continue to see more globally aligned executions in the market and across the region, such as our Patrón Secret Dining Society program, our Art of Patrón event series, and other initiatives. patrontequila.com HK
LA: In general, brown spirits dominate Asia as consumers and the trade are more familiar with whiskies and brandies. And for that reason, our aged marks – Patrón Reposado and Patrón Añejo – should be particularly appealing here. But of course, there is a need for further education on the tequila category and what makes Patrón so unique within the category.
LA: Absolutely. Hong Kong will always be a market for high-end products, and an ultra-premium brand like Patrón is a perfect fit in the market.
DY: Which expressions are you seeing real growth of in Hong Kong?
DY: Do you feel the Hong Kong trade (bartenders) and consumers have the foundational understanding of your core expressions –Silver, Reposado and Añejo?
LEE APPLBAUM: It’s somewhat difficult to define our target demographic as Patrón tequila appeals to so many different people. Our consumer is one who appreciates high-quality, ultra-premium and artisanal spirits. We aren’t simply targeting tequila drinkers, but rather everyone who enjoys sophisticated, handcrafted spirits and cocktails. And for that reason, Hong Kong is a very important market for us because consumers here are on the leading edge of trends in fashion and food and in business and industry. Hong Kong is actually one of the first markets where Patrón invested in Asia, close to ten years ago when we first began marketing our products in the region. DY: Drinks World caught up with you while you were in Australia at the Patrón Perfectionists Cocktail Competition. Are you planning on launching the same or similar competition in Hong Kong and/or South East Asia? LA: Asia Pacific is a critically important region and so we’re delighted to expand the Perfectionists program into five focus markets including Hong Kong, Australia, South Korea, Japan and New Zealand.
To help do that, we’ve developed an online education platform called Academia Patrón, which we gladly make available to the trade (who in turn can help educate their customers), and that has certainly proven to be effective.
DRINKS WORLD ° 49 DANNY YANG: What’s your target demographic and why is Hong Kong an important market for you?
LA: Patrón Silver continues to drive growth in Hong Kong because it is a great spirit base for cocktails and cocktails of course, are growing in popularity here. Patrón Añejo is doing well here too, with its appeal to brown spirit drinkers.
DY: Do you see any market opportunities for the brand?
DY: What’s next for Patrón in Hong Kong and globally?
50 ° DRINKS WORLD Faye Chen, bar manager at Speak Low in Shanghai caught up with Drinks World’s Danny Yang to talk about Patrón, HongQ88FlintPatrónFayementorsbartending,andtheindustry.recentlycreatedacocktailmenuforGrill&BarandBarattheJWMarriottinKong. FayeChen ° SPONSORED ° KONGHONG HK
Faye’s signature Crack of Dawn cocktail HK
DRINKS WORLD ° 51
DY: Have you had a great mentor in the industry? If so, what advice did they give you that you still work and live by today?
FC: There are a lot of good bartenders and mentors in this industry. Shingo Gokan, my boss, stands out for me. He taught me a lot of skills and how to run a bar, but most importantly, he taught me how to be a decent bartender. Being a decent bartender is not just about making great cocktails, it’s about your attitude, for example how you talk to people, how you treat industry friends, and how you manage yourself, both mentally and physically. How you manage yourself when you’re under a lot of pressure and how you behave when you’ve got a super bad hangover. Those are the things he taught me. Even though I’m a champion in the competition, he once said that when people start looking up to you, you have to push yourself more and always keep improving.
DY: You’re in Hong Kong creating your signature Patrón cocktails. Have you created the cocktail specifically to suit the local palate profile?
DY: From the Patrón portfolio do you have a favourite expression?
FC: As bartenders we always like to keep it simple, especially after a long shift so a drink like Patrón Silver and soda is great. Personally, I like anything Old Fashioned, so I’d make a Patrón Añejo Old Fashioned.
FC: The luckiest thing with this industry is that it gives me the chance to meet a lot of people. I get the chance to talk to people, I get the chance to hear their stories and it makes me want to discover more and learn more. Customers, people around me and other bartenders inspire me.
FC: This is a really hard question! If I really have to choose one, I would say Patrón XO Café because this product, for me, is great and every time I serve it to a customer I can see they are easily satisfied. It’s also a good base that I can use in many different cocktails.
FC: Speak Low is a speakeasy style bar and we’ve been open for almost three years. It’s running quite well and we’ve made it into The World’s 50 Best Bars list. We focus on handcrafted cocktails and we have two different concept bars, one is what I would call American style and one is a more Japanese/British style of bar. DY: Tell us something about your job that inspires you day-to-day?
DANNY YANG: Tell us a little about yourself?
FAYE CHEN: I’m originally from Taiwan and I started in the industry around eight years ago. I used to work in a dive bar and there was a party where my boss hired a flair bartender to put a show on the stage. I was so impressed that I asked the flair bartender: “Where did you learn this?” He gave me a card so I found the teacher and that’s basically how I started in the industry.
DY: And finally, what’s your favourite Patrón cocktail after a long shift?
FC: This time I prepared four cocktails for Patrón, all based on dishes I have tried before. I feel that it’s interesting to turn a dish into a drink. I’ve added some Asian concepts and flavours like Sichuan pepper, cilantro, chestnut and oolong tea, so when the customer drinks it they can taste similar flavours to the dishes. Hong Kong is similar to Shanghai in that it is an international city with western influence, so with the drinks I added Asian ingredients.
DY: Tell us a little bit about Speak Low?
Faye’s signature Patrón cocktails are available at Flint Grill & Bar and Bar Q88 until March 23, 2017.
Symphony Loo, Bar Manager, Neon Pigeon, Singapore
52 ° DRINKS WORLD
LadiesinLiquor
SYMPHONY LOO: I’m passionate about flavour, cooking and making cocktails. We have a great bar and kitchen team so we work together to make an exciting menu. This is our goal day-to-day, and I just want to learn more and implement it. I’m also passionate about hospitality, and making a cocktail that the customer loves is a huge reward.
° MEET °
The industry can be a fast paced environment, whether you’re behind the stick, bar backing, managing venues, brewing, winemaking or distilling (or a combination of these). Drinks World wanted to get some insight from some of the most talented ladies in the industry from Australia and South East Asia. From inspiration to mentoring and everything they love and don’t love about the drinks industry.
DRINKS WORLD: Tell us something about your job that inspires you day-to-day.
Gemma Duff – Marketing Manager, The West Winds Gin
GEMMA DUFF: The everyday people who walk into the bar and sit with us. It sounds horribly clichéd and sick worthy, but having taken a few months off from serving and getting back into the swing of things now, I realised what a privilege it is to hear people’s story, to be the person at the end of someone’s day. In some ways, it’s the relationship we are all looking for, someone to take care of us, make us laugh and pour us a drink. Besides that, it’s the people who take huge strides and effort to create something – be that alcohol brands, creative marketing, bars that inspire us. It is unbelievably hard to put yourself out there, create and hope someone else will believe in the same dream.
DiageoPortfolio,Ambassador,BrandDiageoMoëtHennesseyHongKong owners, to hear others’ stories and further their learning. I am also a huge advocate for Coleman’s Academy and everything Paige Aubort does for the industry. There was much hype and criticism at the start, and I sat on the fence for a long time about how I felt about having a female-based program. But at the end of the day everything Paige puts out is extremely positive and is helping to keep females in the industry for longer, it’s hard to be critical of anything that is projecting positivity, creativity and strength.
HARRIET LEIGH: I come into work with the smell of New Make wafting in the air. I get to taste, smell and talk about booze all day long. And now, after 18 years of late nights and weekend work I’m a day worker. And I love it. I get to go to weddings! Birthday parties! Bar Mitzvahs! And I get to harass people on the other side of the bar finally. My new career has seen me thrown out of some of Sydney’s finest establishments.
KATE MCGRAW: I’ve been lucky in that every bar program I’ve been a part of has placed such a huge emphasis on ‘genderless’ training. At Lotus Group I’m lucky to have two amazing mentors in Tara Sullivan and Annette Lacey, both of whom have incredible industry pedigree and who really put the time into developing my colleagues and me.
GEMMA DUFF: I helped Mitch Wilson put together the Academy of Bartenders and it’s been something I’m immensely proud to be involved in. It’s about being all inclusive and attracting everyone from bar-backs to bar Cherry Lam,
DRINKS WORLD ° 53
DW: With your expertise and years of experience in the industry, have you taken on a mentor role for any bartenders, either through the workplace or via other initiatives?
DW: Have you ever had a mentor or been part of a group or program that has supported you in your career as a female bartender?
KINO SOH: Hannah Waters created Bar Belles and I think things are going well. Within the industry itself, there’s all the support you need. And there is more and more shout out for women to enter competitions. As the industry grows, I’m sure more challenges will be encountered, so I think the only thing left to do is to create an environment where we can come together, share those challenges and look for ways to overcome them.
JEMIMA MCDONALD: I have attended Coleman’s Academy, and it was definitely uplifting to hear other established and successful women tell their stories. I guess my personal mentors have been the guys that trained me up at Earl’s, namely Pasan Wijesena, Dale Schoon, Bede Sincalir etc., and before that, the Swillhouse team. I like the thought of your own colleagues mentoring, encouraging and teaching each other, and I’ve been lucky enough to always find work in super nurturing environments.
SYMPHONY LOO: Yeah for sure. My former Bar Manager at Four Seasons taught me not only cocktail skills and techniques but the whole experience; the flavour, the appearance. And then after that when I came to Neon Pigeon, Rohit Roopchand, taught me all about the business. It’s not only about making cocktails, but how to run a business. The two of them have inspired me greatly.
CHERRY LAM: Tony Conigliaro – The key person of the Drink’s factory, a pioneering team of a drinks consultancy, which has collaborated with chefs, perfumers, chocolatiers and designers. It has been an honour to work for them in London, to see how to manage some trendy concept bars such as, 69 Colebrook Row, Bar Termini, the Zetter Townhouse and the new bar – Untitled. It was also a pleasure to work in Jason Atherton’s restaurant as a head bartender at Blind Pig. Last but not least, my first mentor who inspired me and gave me the chance to take the next step in my career – Antonio Lai from Tastings Group. I’ve always kept a little space in my heart for my home, Quinary!
Jemima McDonald, Bar Manager at Earl’s Juke Joint
HARRIET LEIGH: All managers are to some degree mentors. At Archie Rose, I have the least amount of time to train staff of any job I’ve had previously. I am in the office for a large amount of my week. But I like setting challenges for my staff. There is nothing more satisfying than watching my junior staff develop their skills. While I know Coleman’s Academy is a mentoring program, I taught people how to catch spiders, so I don’t think that counts.
KINO SOH: When I first started, maybe once or twice when I was running the floor, customers would assume I was a waistress, not a bartender. And then I would have to explain that we are all bartenders. Some women have faced challenges though. One of the Highball girls told me last year when she finished school and started applying for bartending jobs, they told her that only boys can apply for the position and girls can be servers. So we still need to try and balance things out.
DW: What do you think are the current challenges facing female bartenders?
GEMMA DUFF: I don’t believe there are so
LEFT: Harriet Leigh, Venue Manager, Archie Rose Distilling Co RIGHT: Kate McGraw, Bar Operations Manager, Lotus Dining Group
JEMIMA MCDONALD: Recently I have had trouble finding somewhere to stash my bar blade when I don’t have a back pocket, and trying to not sweat my liquid eyeliner off. Also, it’d be nice if there were more of us! I guess it can be hard to be seen and heard when the industry is so male dominated, and sometimes it really can feel like a man’s world. However, in saying that, it’s up to the individual to work hard, and hard work pays off.
SYMPHONY LOO: When I started in Four Seasons as a bar back it was quite tough. I mean two years ago there were maybe 10 female bartenders working in Singapore. At the hotel, customers didn’t always take me seriously until I made a drink. But sometimes I didn’t even get the chance to make a drink. In this industry you have to prove yourself. For chefs, people look at the menu and order the food, there’s no face-to-face. For bartenders it’s different. You have to encourage and actually sell customers to drink your cocktails. That’s another challenge. I think nowadays it’s getting better and better.
54 ° DRINKS WORLD KATE MCGRAW: I think it’s strange to call oneself a mentor. With that said, in a lot of ways I’ve become ‘cool Aunty Kate’ for a lot of them – we’ll have a great time but I’ll throw in a wedge of wisdom here and there. My whole approach to training is empowerment; I see my job more as helping young bartenders figure out the way they want to bartend and then trying to help them carve their paths with not only my knowledge, but also the knowledge of the friends I have in the industry. I think the initiatives like Coleman’s Academy are great, and Paige Aubort is a force of nature. It’s so great for up and coming bartenders to have such accessibility to strong role models – it’s something that I wish had been around when I started out.
SYMPHONY LOO: We always get together to support each other because we work for different bars. The schedule is very tough, but we try to meet on Sundays or after work. Hannah Waters also created a female bartender community called the Bar Belles. She organises masterclasses and events. And even though she is moving to New Zealand, we are going to try and keep Bar Belles going.
KATE MCGRAW: I feel like there’s still a void in terms of information and support for young women who are looking to make a career behind the bar. There are some excellent bar managers working who treat their female bartenders exactly the same as their male counterparts, but there is an equal number of bar managers who still think that women can’t bar back because lifting cases of beer and moving kegs around is ‘dude work’. Our industry is lacking female creativity and knowledge because women still struggle to get their foot in the door at the ground level.
GEMMA DUFF: Absolutely. I think there is still some debate around the fact it is difficult for some men to see what we see, they simply haven’t had the same experiences and it isn’t obvious to them what is happening. I think it’s super important we speak up, put our hands up and start talking about all the little ways misogyny still exists. In saying that, all the men in my life are extremely supportive of everything I’ve ever wanted to do, but then again I don’t tend to surround myself with men that aren’t. We are kidding ourselves if we think we don’t still have a long way to go. Cue Trump election.
SYMPHONY LOO: Customers start to accept female bartenders because people get lots of information about them winning competitions, and they start to take us more seriously. And male bartenders help us as well. They are more open to us entering the competitions and the events. And they encourage us to work together. The brands are getting behind us too. So, for example, me, Hannah Waters, Christyne Lee and Charmaine Thio are now members of the St Germain Sisters, which was organised by Bacardi.
DRINKS WORLD ° 55 many challenges specific to female bartenders in the current city based environment I am in. I do acknowledge, however, that further out, and in certain groups, just getting to be a bartender and not a door girl is still a real fight. We do have lots of challenges facing the bartending community as a whole though, one’s I think are starting to be addressed which is great to see. Mental Health, physical health, creating a family and staying in the industry, relationships and how to forge a long-term career are the big topics at the moment. We have got to stop selfdestructing one of the best chances we’ve got of making the world a better place.
CHERRY LAM: Amanda Wan of The Tastings Group has always been kicking ass. She was also the Malaysian Champion of World Class 2010. It is a great pleasure having her in Hong Kong to share her passion and knowledge to our Beckalycommunity.Franks, the owner of Pontiac, one of the most famous spots in Central, has trained some of the top female bartenders in town, her big personality has a big influence on the industry.
GEMMA DUFF: There are so many bartenders now who are putting everything they have into creating a career in hospitality. I watch Alissa Gabriel make drinks and am inspired by her love for it every time, Mary White has been killing it forever.
° MEET °
JEMIMA MCDONALD: I know a lot of amazing, talented girls in this industry! Back in my Frankie’s days we had a little gang of babes called Vagina Island, which we have managed to maintain to this day. Maria Hanley is killing it over at Bloodwood, and so Tara Bullard down at Dulcie’s in Merimbula. Phoebe McWhirter isn’t behind the stick anymore, but is an amazing big boss lady at Stanbuli. I am so proud of every girl that gets out there, puts their head down and grinds in this industry, it’s hard, but the venues we are in wouldn’t be the same without us.
JEMIMA MCDONALD: Personally, I have always felt supported. I also work with the most genuinely lovely guys in the world, so maybe I have been spoilt? Often we get people come into Earl’s and comment on me being the only female bartender, and my response to that is that we would hire more girls in a heartbeat if they came through the door asking for a job!
HARRIET LEIGH: Jemima from Earl’s is always a treat. All the good-time girls at Big Poppa’s, but especially Shay Chamberlain, Mary from Lobo Plantation, Thalita at Bulletin Place, Sabs from Frankie’s isn’t exactly up and coming but she kicks more ass than anyone else in town. And how lucky is Sydney and Hubert Restaurant and Bar that we managed to steal Jenna Hensworth from the Melbournians! I’ve also go three killer women working the bar at Archie Rose; Federica Thorn, Hayley Skeggs, and Cassie Field.
KATE MCGRAW: I have to give a shout out to our guns behind the bar at Lotus Dumpling Bar –Sarah, Julia, Sandy and Rachel. It’s an all female team out there and they smash it out of the park every day of the week they are behind that bar!
Sadly that just doesn’t happen often enough. In my experience though, I haven’t had many situations in which I have been made to feel inferior or burdened by my gender. DW: Who are some of the up-and-coming female bartenders we should know about that are currently kicking ass behind the stick?
Kino Soh, Owner of Highball, Singapore
DW: Do you think the male bartending community is supportive of female bartenders?
KONGHONG HK
56 ° DRINKS WORLD Bartender and Owner of Mezcalito, Hong Kong ° MEET °
Leo Gutkowski
DRINKS WORLD: Can you describe the venue to me, in terms of décor and set up?
LG: We kind of have two goals. Tequila is already a well-known spirit in this town but most people only know about the lower quality or commercial brands, and we want to show that tequila is so much more than that. We offer a wide range of very fine tequilas that are ‘extra aged’ and even ‘extra, extra aged’ that are definitely not for shooting!
LEO GUTKOWSKI: Our venue is open-plan and spacious. We have huge floor-to-ceiling windows maximising the great views of the CBD and offer a partial harbour view. Inside we have a cool mixture of artwork on the walls and comfortable lounge seating areas. We took inspiration from bars in downtown Los Angeles, West Hollywood and Beverly Hills to create a relaxing, low-key, chilled spot.
The second part of our master plan is to promote and generate awareness for tequila’s lesser-known cousin, mezcal. We aim to show how mezcal is a versatile beverage and not only has a great flavour when consumed straight up, but demonstrates how well it mixes in cocktails.
DW: What are the most popular expressions of tequila and mezcal at your venue?
LG: At Mezcalito, our preferred way of serving mezcal is straight up. We do offer it in various classic and house cocktails, but we really believe mezcal is best enjoyed as it comes. We brought over a whole bunch of copita glasses from Mexico to serve it in. We serve it the right way; mezcal in a copita and with a wedge of fresh orange sprinkled with agave worm salt. We also offer homemade Sangrita for tequila drinkers. Sangrita is a tomato and citrus drink with a spicy kick that accompanies good tequila and is used to balance your palate.
DW: At any one time, approximately how many tequila and mezcal bottles would you stock on the back bar?
DW: Do you have a personal favourite agave spirit you like to consume?
LG: I’ve always been a tequila guy. It’s a great drink for all sorts of occasions and I like the different tastes between all the levels of ageing. My current go-to tequila is Clase Azul Reposado. I am very much a mezcal guy too and my current favourite is Bruxo No 3.
LG: We’re seeing a really broad range of people come though our doors which is really encouraging because it’s good to see that tequila and mezcal is a drink enjoyed by people from all walks of life. Each week we do get pockets of people come in who love tequila and mezcal so much that they even know more than we do and it’s great sitting and drinking with them and learning new things. HK
DW: What type of demographic are you seeing in your venue? What is the demand like in Hong Kong for tequila and mezcal?
DW: Is the focus of Mezcalito on mezcal and tequila based cocktails, or more towards enjoying the finer aspects of the agave spirits and serving them to sip on and savour?
LG: We offer roughly 25 different mezcals and 25 tequilas. Approximately 50 per cent of our agave spirits are sourced locally from Hong Kong suppliers, while the rest we bring in from Los Angeles giving us a much wider selection than most places.
DRINKS WORLD ° 57 Leo, a British ex-pat who has been in Hong Kong for 12 years has opened Mezcalito, a bar dedicated to agave spirits. After managing the bar at dragon-i for eight years, Leo wanted to create a space that doesn’t resemble any other bars in the city, taking inspiration from Downtown Los Angeles and West Hollywood bars. While his spirit of choice has always been tequila, he is beginning to learn more about and appreciate mezcal.
MEET ° PHILIPPINES PH
DW: And how are you building the local bar scene in the Philippines?
LARRY GUEVARA PLACES THE PHILIPPINES ON THE COCKTAIL MAP
LARRY GUEVARA: I got into bartending by way of divine intervention. In 1999, I received my first college degree in Philosophy after eight years in the seminary (yes, I was supposed to be a Catholic Priest). However, I decided to take up another degree, which was Hotel and Restaurant Management with the dream of becoming a Chef. During our bar management subject, I saw one classmate flip a bottle and that completely blew my mind. I told myself that I needed to learn that too. From that point on I started practising some basic flair moves and studying the history of bartending in general. It felt like I was home. I later realised I found my true calling, not in the kitchen but behind the bar.
DRINKS WORLD: Tell us a little about yourself, how you got started in the industry?
LG: Liquid Concepts started as a fun way of channelling our creative juices. Our tagline, “Our Ideas. Your Libations,” was actually inspired by Bruce Lee and the Oriental philosophy of “being water” and learning to adapt to all situations. Myself, along with my better half Sharleen manage our start-up company. I’m head consultant and she runs the marketing side and often acts as my guinea pig, drink stylist and barback! We consult for restaurants and bars that need assistance in all aspects of bar design and set-up, menu planning and beverage development, bartender and mixology training, small group and corporate events, product and launch activation. Simply put, anything and everything related to the beverage industry.
DW: You do bar consulting for Liquid Concepts, what services do you provide?
Larry Guevara is a Mixologist at Liquid Concepts. Having worked in the industry for 13 years, and noticing the negative connotations attached to bartending in his home country, Larry founded a consultant and training firm. His mission is to make bartending known as a respectable profession in the Philippines, and he is well on his way to achieving that goal. Read on to find out more…
LG: The owners and bartenders at ABV and the Curator are all good friends, and these guys have really placed Filipino bartending on the map. I mean the level of craftsmanship and hospitality they provide to their guests is top-notch. Truth be told, there are also lots of underrated cocktail bars that deliver exceptional drinks. I would look out for Bitters Bar, Raging Bull, and Buddha Bar.
LG: During the last two decades, the bartending craft has been treated unfairly as an underrated job here in the Philippines. People have different, if not negative connotations that if you are a bartender, you are either a drunkard or a person who is too lazy to get a real job.Our travels and experiences abroad, however, made us look at the local bartending scene from an outsider’s perspective, and we thought ‘What more can we do to change people’s minds?’ So apart from being a consultant, we also advocate the Filipino style of bartending and hospitality. We help train a new breed of bartenders by encouraging them to take pride in their chosen craft, and enjoy what they are truly passionate about.Wealso create awareness among bartenders and consumers about the use of local products. We believe our country is a rich agricultural land that is abundant with a myriad of products that are often neglected. By encouraging bartenders to use more local products, we are also giving back to farmers and supporting their sense of pride. And finally, we channel our advocacy through seminars and workshops at different colleges and universities offering bar management subjects.
58 ° DRINKS WORLD
In fact, I was a part-time teacher at the Polytechnic University of the Philippines for almost two years. This involved drink demonstrations and flair shows.
°
DW: There are two Manila bars on Asia’s Top 50 Bar list for 2016, which is a great achievement. What’s the next venue to keep an eye on?
DRINKS WORLD ° 59 Eat, drink and be merry. DW brings you the slickest venues from around the region, both well known and off the beaten path.VISIT
AJÍ Set on the trunk of the iconic Palm Jumeirah with a slice of perfect golden sand right outside, Ají serves Nikkei cuisine – a heavenly blend of Japanese and Peruvian, which might well be your next foodie love affair. With an environment that’s best described as quirky, the awardwinning bartenders here blur the line between a mixologist and mad scientist, and they even have a Saké sommelier on hand should you need them.
60 ° DRINKS WORLD Love it or hate it, there’s nowhere quite like Dubai – exciting, brash, seemingly changing by the second. In fact, stand still long enough and someone will surely build a speciality restaurant or kick ass vegan juice bar around you, which is convenient, if a little confusing at times. However, more than anywhere else, it pays to know where you’re going, as local alcohol laws restrict the visibility and even the location of licensed premises, making it unlikely you’ll just stumble upon the next big thing.
One of Dubai’s most popular, and indeed most hipster café’s, Wild and the Moon specialises in all things healthy, in particular delicious, organic cold pressed juices and an unrepentant passion for all things matcha. Added to which there’s absolutely no chance of a body blow to your karma involved in a visit.
° VISIT °
WHERE TO DRINK IN DUBAI
With a bright, minimalist interior and staff that redefine great service, Cocktail-Kitchen is another independent gem, this time specialising in all things Vermouth - from refreshing Spritz to classic aperitivos, perhaps with a side order of Padron peppers or fig and blue cheese bruschetta thrown in for good measure. There’s even a special area where you can book a private cocktail lesson and a welcome non-smoking policy at the bar, as smoking indoors is still, unfortunately, commonplace in the Emirate. Address: Armada BlueBay Hotel, Cluster P, Jumeirah Lake Towers (JLT), Dubai T: +971 (0)56 828 0727 W: www.cocktail-kitchen.com Opening Hours: 5pm – 2am
DUBAI DXB
Address: Alserkal Avenue. Street 8, Unit H77, Al Quoz 1, Dubai T: +971 (0)4 343 3392 W: www.wildandthemoon.com Opening Hours: 8am – 7pm
Address: Unit 6 & 7, Club Vista Mare, Palm Jumeirah, Dubai T: +971 (0)4 552 0244 W: www.aji.ae Opening Hours: 12pm – 12am WILD AND THE MOON
COCKTAIL-KITCHEN
Address: Grosvenor House, Al SufouhRoad, Dubai Marina T: +971 (0)4 317 6000 W: www.siddhartalounge.com
Opening Hours: 8am – 10pm
It might seem strange to go for coffee in a mall, but then most malls don’t offer an indoor ski field. Founded by two pioneers of the ever evolving Dubai coffee scene, Common Grounds is a Melbourne style café that’s almost supernaturally laid back, except where it comes to the dark gold on offer. True coffee lovers will adore ‘the magic’, a spin on the classic flat white, and if you’re hungry the food is hearty, healthy and appealing. If that’s not enough, you’ll also be supporting a small independent business thriving in this super competitive industry.
Tucked away in an underground car park, Maine Oyster Bar takes some finding, and even if you know it’s there it can be a test of your sanity to find the door. Once inside, however, you’re treated to classic cocktails made by staff that seem genuinely (almost worryingly) pleased to be there and a bar that looks like it’s escaped from a New Orleans hotel. If you’re hungry and naturally ambitious, try Neptune’s Folly – a three-tier tower of prawns, snow crab, scallop ceviche, and of course the freshest oysters.
COMMON GROUNDS
DRINKS WORLD ° 61
MAINE OYSTER BAR
SIDDHARTA LOUNGE Located on the roof of the Grosvenor House Hotel with near endless views of the Arabian Gulf, Siddharta Lounge is the perfect spot for a cold sundowner at the end of the day. Managing to be both chilled and sophisticated at the same time, you can relax on a sofa, or at the bar, or on the super-popular terraced steps spread out amongst comfy cushions as you watch the sun slink away below the marina.
Opening Hours: 12:30pm – 12am
Address: Ground Floor, The DoubleTree by Hilton JBR, Dubai T: +971 (0)4 457 6719 W: www.themaine.ae Opening Hours: 12pm – 12am DXB
Address: Level 2, Mall of the Emirates (near Vox Cinema), Al Barsha, Dubai T: +971 (0)50 497 1094 W: www.commongroundsdubai.com
Address: Shop 167, Ground Floor, The Dubai Mall, Downtown, Dubai T: +971 (0)4 331 1071 W: www.arabicacoffee.ae Opening Hours: 9am–12am DXB
With an interior that’s minimalist bordering on basic, this iconic, Japanese roaster has recently opened a branch at the Dubai Mall next to the aquarium (yes, this mall has an aquarium.) Practically bubbling with coffee obsession, in search of that perfect cup they grow their own beans, ship them, roast them and even solely export a precision espresso machine ominously called the Slayer. Both busy and friendly all day long, it smells irresistible and offers hands-down some of the best coffee in town.
° VISIT ° WESLODGE
% ARABICA
Address: Tower B, 68th Floor, JW Marriott Marquis, Business Bay, Dubai T: +971 (0)4 560 1700 W: www.weslodge.ae Opening Hours: 11:30am – 2am
62 ° DRINKS WORLD
Address: 1st Floor, Lobby Level, Grosvenor House, Al Sufouh Road, Dubai Marina, Dubai T: +971 (0)4 3999 123 W: www.ruyadubai.com Opening Hours: 6pm – 1am
RÜYA A visit to Rüya is the perfect way to discover locally inspired flavours while enjoying the comforts of one of the city’s most talked about new restaurants. The Anatolian offerings highlight the best of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean ingredients. The wine list boasts ancient wine world treasures that are exclusively imported from Turkey. Flavours of rose, hibiscus, honey and spices set-off the signature cocktails. Their use of the Coravin system means they have extraordinary wines available by the glass. Inside, painted ceramic walls and colourful cushions provide a rustic juxtaposition to the polished service, and the terrace that overlooks Dubai Marina is a great place to migrate to as the nightlife picks up late in the evening.
Serving modern Canadian cuisine (it turns out there really is such a thing) Weslodge’s décor could best be described as tastefully random –stag antlers, red leather furniture, monochrome photographs of craggy pioneers and more paintings than you’d ever think were plausible for a single wall. The drinks, however, are simply out of this world - a mix of classic cocktails and intricate house creations that will blow your mind, made by some of the best and most tattooed bartenders in the city. Plus on the 68th floor the whole experience comes with a side order of sweeping city views.
ADDRESS: 113 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy VIC T: (03) 9417 7441 W: www.theelysianwhiskybar.com.au Opening Hours: Tuesday-Saturdays: 4:30pm-1am
Located on Brunswick Street, Elysian features a very modest but eclectic selection of whiskies from around the world. The primary focus here is independent bottlings of whiskies. Imagine drinking a Glenlivet, but from a single barrel, possibly finished in a red wine cask, and bottled at cask strength. The beauty of independent bottlings is they offer a whole new range of flavours and possibilities that do not exist within the official bottlings of a certain brand. Other than whiskies, there are seasonal fruit and herb focused cocktails, an ample wine list and a small constantly rotating beer list. The smaller capacity of the bar is specifically designed to enhance the personal interaction between patrons and the bartender. There are a small offering of snack items focusing on charcuterie and cheeses that will be on frequent rotation.
° VISIT ° AUSTRALIA AU
DRINKS WORLD ° 63
The Elysian Whisky Bar
Mezacalito is Hong Kong’s lounge bar and agave spirits mecca, housing the city’s largest selection of tequila and mezcal. Located high above Central with jetliner views, Mezcalito provides a relaxed environment for after work drinks, or a casual tipple. House crafted cocktails on offer here feature fresh flavours and ingredients such as elderflower, lemongrass, citrus fruits, ginger and berries. A short but ample list of wines and beers (cerveza of course!) round out the drinks list. Check out Mezcalito for all your agave needs.
ADDRESS: 27/F 18 On Lan Street Central, Hong Kong T: +852 2668 8444 W: www.mezcalito.com.hk Opening Hours: Monday-Saturday: 12pm-late Closed Sunday
Mezcalito
Kelvin Low and Yao Wong (both formerly of Whisky and Alement and Bar White Oak Melbourne) have opened a cosy neighbourhood whisk(e)y venue, The Elysian Whisky Bar in Melbourne’s trendy Fitzroy. The decor is based around Japanese bars with dark timber panels, a stunning Californian Redwood bartop, and a backbar with a selection that’s second to none.
64 ° DRINKS WORLD Long Chim translates to “come and try”, and Thompson invites all to taste Long Chim’s food, which is true to the streets and markets of Bangkok. Featured dishes include charred rice noodles with beef and basil and Siracha sauce, prawn laksa, chive cakes, green papaya salads, grilled pork and banana roti – there’s something for everyone. On the drinks front, the man behind the drinks at the Perth and Sydney locations, Long Chim’s Head of Beverages, James Connolly has developed the drinks list, which includes signature cocktails such as the rum-based Bangkok Painkiller and gin-based 555. Connolly’s unique Or Tor Kor Mule concoction is one for the ginger lovers, consisting of ginger beer, vodka infused with kaffir lime zest and Thai bitters. The addition of Long Chim to Crown Melbourne continues to take the premium dining offerings in the precinct to another level, and will join the list of acclaimed restaurants by the likes of Heston Blumenthal, Nobu Matsuhisa, Neil Perry and Guillaume Brahimi.
AU
Opening Hours: Monday - Sunday: 12pmStompinglateGround
Address: 100 Gipps St Collingwood T: (03) 9415 1944 W: www.stompingground.beer
Brewing Co is the epitome of Melbourne culture, where you can find a freshly brewed beer in an authentic space with great food and pretty great people. The industrial and rustic space that once was a sawtooth roofed warehouse, Stomping Ground has re-established their venue as a local hub for all, pleasing to both young and old. Community is key to Stomping Grounds’ success; communal tables and a kids playhouse made from recycled materials exercises the venues ‘come one, come all’ theme. The venue is built around the brewery’s tanks whilst all communal areas are set around the central bar featuring custom tap fronts and hand pumps serving 26 unique Stomping Ground brews. The venue is bright and open with a retractable roof above the beer garden bringing natural light to the entire venue. The craft beer speaks for itself in taste and quality, and the food is simple and done extremely well, providing a mix of pub classics and new favourites in the menu.
Opening Hours: Monday-Sunday: 11:30am till late Chef David Thompson has opened his first Melbourne restaurant on the Crown Riverwalk. This is the third Long Chim restaurant in Australia, hot on the heels of the successful openings in Perth and Sydney.
Address: Crown Melbourne, 8 Whiteman St, Southbank VIC T: (03) 8582 3082 W: info-bookingau/restaurants/premium/long-chim/www.crownmelbourne.com.
Long MelbourneChimStompingGroundBrewingCo
White CocktailRabbitRoom
DeBarLuxe
On Northbourne Avenue in the heart of the Canberra lies White Rabbit Cocktail Room. A world away from the norm, this Alice in Wonderland inspired cocktail bar has created quite a stir, breaking away from the flurry of whisky bars and modern Ownerpubs.Nick
Bar De Luxe is a Japanese cocktail bar in Hong Kong that has been brought to life by Ueno Hidetsugu, the legendary mixologist and owner of Tokyo’s internationally renowned cocktail mecca, BAR HIGH FIVE. Ueno san’s protégé, Yuriko Naganuma, has moved from Tokyo to spearhead the long anticipated launch of Bar De Luxe as head bartender. Her vast experience and mastery of bartending will be on display at Bar De Luxe with each cocktail that is served. With exceptionally high standards and her unique mixology flair, each exquisite cocktail will be prepared to perfection.
Patrons are also treated to table service, and many of the cocktails are prepared for them at theirThistable.hidden delight welcomes all those who come with young hearts and curious minds, to feast upon the decadent whimsy and marvellous creations it has to offer.
Address: 65 Northbourne Avenue, Canberra ACT T: (02) 6257 7779 W: www.whiterabbitroom.com.au Opening Hours: Tuesday-Thursday: 5pm-12am Friday: Sunday-Monday:Saturday:4pm-2am2pm-2amClosed
Given the task of creating the amazing dessert menu was local pastry chef Adrian Peak, who has worked at other well known Canberra establishments such as Water’s Edge and Pulp Kitchen. While you can still partake in some savoury snacks to wash those amazing cocktails down, the standouts are the desserts, which have been attentively designed around the Alice in Wonderland theme to create some delicious masterpieces.Theatmosphere is also designed to make patrons feel like they have stumbled upon a secret garden in the middle of the CBD, complete with its own ‘rabbit’s hole’ in the ceiling (make sure you look up as you walk in or you might miss it!)
AU
Tuckwell said he wanted the concept to be an alternative to what the current market had to offer. “Most of the local venues in Canberra are male-focused, whisky bars or speakeasies. These places are great, but I wanted to create a space that was designed for the female market,” Tuckwell said. “The other point of difference for White Rabbit is our menu. Specialising in cocktails and desserts is unique – we offer custom creations, that you can only get here.”
DRINKS WORLD ° 65 ° VISIT °
Address: 29-30F, 8 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong T: +852 3706-5716 W: www.attire-house.com/bar Opening Hours: 10am-12am
There are eight taps here, with six dedicated Tallboy and Moose taps serving beers that are brewed in-house, one rotating local guest beer tap and one rotating local guest cider tap. The drinks list is complimented by a short handpicked wine list and a selection of spirits, as well soft drinks. In addition, Tallboy and Moose offer a “booze and juice” option of freshly squeezed apple juice and your choice of spirit.Forthose who have a favourite Tallboy and Moose beer they want to take home, the crew have brought in a manual and simple single can seaming machine, designed to work with 1litre cans. Cans are filled directly from the draught taps, allowing guests to take home their favourite brews. The beer is filled and staff write the beer name, ABV, standard drinks and packaging date on the side of the can in the info section. Bar snacks are offered and Friday to Sunday sees rotating food trucks parked out front. Address: 270 Raglan St. Preston, VIC 3072 Australia W: www.tallboyandmoose.com
&TallboyMoose
° VISIT ° AU
66 ° DRINKS WORLD
Address: 52A Amoy Street, Singapore T: +65 8869 6520 W: tribenative.com Opening Hours: Monday - Saturday: 6pm - midnight
Opening hours: Wednesday: Friday: 4pm-11pm Saturday: 12pm-11pm Sunday: 12pm-9pm Tallboy and Moose is the latest brewpub in the Melbourne suburb of Preston. This open concept space is housed in a former stripped back warehouse, where everyone including dogs and kids are welcome and beer enthusiasts can see the production process in action. Natural wood surrounds the venue, giving it a warm feel, in addition to a mural wall and Tallboy and Moose’s signature red and blue colour scheme accentuates the space. There are intimate “date night” tables for two, long beer hall communal seating, as well as a lounge area with couches and a beer garden space at the front to enjoy the warmer days.
The back bar at NATIVE holds spirits from around the region, for example ceylon arrack from Sri Lanka, rum for Chalong Bay, and amrut whiskey from India. In fact, each element of the bar has been sourced either locally or from the region. Handmade ceramics made by local ceramics maker Ummuramics has created unique vessels for select cocktails. The décor also has a local touch with graffiti artist Rajesh Kumar creating the graffiti artwork along the stairway wall.
NATIVE is founded and owned by Vijay Mudaliar, one of the city’s homegrown talents, who prefers to work with ingredients that he grew up with and has knowledge of, rather than looking outwards for inspiration. Using herbs and plants that grow within a three-metre radius of the venue, in addition to plants such as cinnamon, betel leaves, turmeric leaves, curry leaves, fresh star fruit and their flowers are all incorporated at NATIVE.
Native
NATIVE is a cocktail bar with a focus on regional products, which extends this philosophy not only to cocktails, but also to the artwork, music and furnishings. The first of its kind in Singapore, the venue uses small brands from Singapore and around the region, providing a platform to showcase the products.
DRINKS WORLD ° 67 Impress your guests with these recipes, ideas, tips and hints. This edition of DW we focus on humble jerky as a bar snack and innovation in cocktails.FOOD & DRINK
68 ° DRINKS WORLD
NO WHATAROUNDJERKINGISJERKY?
Jerky – one of the oldest snacks in history has seen a revival in bars around the world. As a prepackaged, high-protein snack jerky is available in many different flavours. Jerky companies such as Tiger Buck, Bull Bar, and Darling Jerky have focused on the on-premise market, providing a highquality pre-packaged snack.
° FOOD °
Jerky is fresh meat that has been dried to prevent it from spoiling. Its name is derived from a South American tribe called the Quechua. They originally called jerky “ch’arki,” which means, “to burn (meat).” The Quechua used meat from alpaca and llamas that were boned, trimmed, cut into slices and pounded thin. It was then rubbed with salt and dried in the sun or smoked over a fire.
HISTORY OF JERKY Jerky can date back to the 1500s. A dense source of nutrition, it is flavourful, compact, and can be made from almost any meat. Jerky reached a height of popularity during the expansion into North America, where traders and explorers used it as an essential source of nutrition while travelling to new areas, unsure of terrain, and food or water sources. Following suit, the Spanish Conquistadors picked up on this and called it “Charqui”. Upon invasion, they saw the natives of North America drying meat from buffalo, elk and deer. This method enabled people to consume high protein food that was readily available when pickings were slim and food was scarce. It later became a staple for American pioneers and cowboys.Overthe years, jerky has become more palatable thanks to various spices. It is now one of the world’s leading snacks. Contrary to popular belief, beef jerky is actually a healthy snack. It is an excellent source of protein, low in fat and calories, and has minimal carbohydrates per serving. It also has a long shelf life.
MODERN JERKY A number of jerky makers have begun to place an emphasis in the onpremise market, with brands such as Tiger Buck, Local Legends, Bull Bar, Dale’s Jerky and Darling Jerky all producing high-quality jerky. Benjamin Cairns of Tiger Buck said, “The idea behind Tiger Buck was to bring to life a premium snack brand targeted at the on-premise market. Most snack brands focus on big supermarkets and petrol and convenience channels (which is obviously where the big volume is)…but Tiger Buck’s true home is behind the bar, in the hands of consumers at their favourite watering hole, and paired with their favourite drink...We saw the opportunity to deliver a snack brand to the on-premise that was created for the on-premise.” Based in Western Australia, Bullbar beef jerky produces jerky with no added salt or sugar and is the perfect snack when you’re limited for time. Bullbar personally source and select the finest grade of ingredient to use in their jerky, including premium Australian beef, fresh spices and a unique blend of special seasonings. Currently, Bullbar only produces beef jerky but have been looking into experimenting with different proteins, so watch this space.
PAIRINGS Benjamin Cairns said that while the obvious pairing for jerky is beer, dark spirits and cocktails are equally as good, “There are even some venues selling a ‘Nip & Buck’- a price-pointed spirit served with Tiger Buck Jerky”. While Tiger Buck only has one hero variety more is slated for 2017.
So don’t jerk around when it comes to venue snacks, get onto jerky!
As consumers become more health conscious, they’re often looking to avoid unhealthy foods where they can. Jerky for instance, is high in protein, low in fat, and brands such as Tiger Buck and Bullbar contain nothing artificial. Jerky is also ready made, has a relatively long shelf life and is healthier than traditional savoury bar snacks like potato chips and pretzels. Jerky makes for a great consumer snack choice.
WHY SHOULD VENUES STOCK JERKY?
DRINKS WORLD ° 69
On speaking about the benefits of jerky in on-premise venues, Bryan Cortese, Managing Director of Bullbar Jerky said, “We understand today’s consumer is highly discerning, applying greater knowledge and awareness of health and nutritional values to the food products they purchase. So we keep our jerky as natural and healthy as possible. It does not contain any artificial flavouring, colours or preservatives.
Cairns points out that “Tiger Buck is one of the few Jerky brands that’s been certified by Coeliac Australia as an approved Gluten Free product.”
70 ° DRINKS WORLD
° DRINK °
The mojito is the classic Cuban cocktail revived during the Prohibition era. It became so popular during this time that a number of bars and clubs around the Caribbean island only served mojitos. One brand has also become synonymous with the mojito, as Cuba’s original white rum, BACARDÍ.
Garnish: Fresh mint to garnish Glass: Tall
The mojito became the official cocktail of Cuba throughout the 1920s when Americans flocked to Cuba for parties away from Prohibition. Since then the popularity of the mojito has never faltered and remains one of the world’s most popular cocktails.
MOJITO
MIX A (SINGLEMOJITOSERVE)Ingredients: • 2 Parts BACARDÍ Carta Blanca • 1 Lime sliced into four wedges • 12 Fresh mint leaves • 2 x Tsp caster sugar • Soda water Method: Muddle a sliced lime into a tall glass. Add 2 teaspoons of caster sugar, stir in two parts of BACARDÍ Carta Blanca. Add 12 mint leaves with lots of ice. Top with soda. Enjoy!
DRINKS WORLD ° 71 The art of making drinks has come a long way. Technology, techniques, and ingredients available have allowed bartenders to push the envelope with their creations. Drinks World reached out to some of the bartenders pushing the boundaries and using their own innovative methods and techniques to bring a new appreciation to the world of drinks. COCKTAIL CLUB COCKTAIL INNOVATION 18TH BEET STREET Ingredients: • 40ml Yamazaki Single Malt 12 YO • 10ml Laphroaig 10 YO Whisky • 22.5ml Red beet & pink peppercorn shrub* • 5ml Amontillado Sherry • 1 x Bps Citrus Oleo-Saccharum • 2 x Dashes Black Walnut Bitters Method: Add all ingredients to a shaker. Add ice and shake hard. Double strain. Garnish: Red Vein Sorrel or Lavender Sprig or Elderflower (depending preference) Glassware: Vintage Wine Glass *RED BEET & PEPPERCORN SHRUB RECIPE Ingredients: • 4 x Beets cut into chunks • 150ml Chardonnay vinegar • 150ml Distilled white vinegar • 1 x Cup sugar • 1 x Tsp Pink peppercorns • 1 x Pinch Kosher salt Method: Add beets and vinegars to blender. Purée. Strain the purée with a fine mesh strainer. Add the mixture to sugar, peppercorns and salt to a glass bowl. Cover, and allow to steep for one day. Taste. If the pepper hasn’t come through yet leave for another day. Fine mesh strain again, bottle and store. ROCKMARY SPRITZ Ingredients: • 40ml House-made Rockmelon and Fruit Scraps Vermouth* • 10ml Four Pillars Rare Dry Gin • 15ml Fresh lemon juice • 60ml Fever -Tree soda water • 60ml Fever -Tree light tonic • 1 x Dash Grapefruit bitters Method: Build over ice and stir Garnish: Rosemary Sprig Glassware: Wine *ROCKMELON & FRUIT SCRAPS VERMOUTH RECIPE Ingredients: • 1L White wine of your choice (Don’t waste fresh bottles, keep unused white wine over a few days for this ingredient) • Soak Rockmelon off cuts and skin in 100ml of Eau-de-Vie for two days • Lavender • Thyme • Sage • Citrus peel (dependent on what was leftover in the bar that night) • 70g White Sugar KURTIS BOSLEY Group Bars Manager, Public House Management Group ° DRINK °
45ml West Winds ‘The Sabre’ gin 15ml Applewood Distillery Red Okar 30ml Fingerlime syrup 15ml Fresh Newrybar lime juice 15ml Sweet Davidsons plum vinegar
RED Ingredients:WINDS
72 ° DRINKS WORLD Native freeze dried ingredients offer consistency, longer shelf life and retain all the flavour. Of particular note are Australian native freeze dried finger lime and Davidson Plum. Australian Finger Lime Caviar, based on the north coast of NSW have been supplying freeze fried finger lime caviar and the native Davidson Plum to the hospitality industry, including collaborations with Byron Bay based Brookie’s Gin and Harvest Restaurant in Newrybar. A WALK IN THE WOODS Ingredients: • 45ml Brookies Byron Dry Gin • 15ml Belgrove Distillery Apple Hatchet • 15ml Maidenii La Tonique Vermouth • 10ml Fingerlime syrup • 1/2 x Apple roughly chopped • 1 x Sprig rosemary • 1/2 x Fresh Fingerlime • 2 x Bps Brookfarm ‘Brothers Blend’ nuts
SAM CURTIS Beverage
FREEZE
1 x Whole egg white Method: Add all ingredients to shaker then add egg white at last minute. Shake with ice then fine strain back into tin without ice. Discard ice then shake mix without ice. Single strain into a coupe Garnish: Harvest garden flowers and Davidsons plum dust Glassware: Coupe DRIED NATIVE INGREDIENTS Manager, Harvest Restaurant, Newrybar
° DRINK °
Method: Add apple, 3/4 of the rosemary leaves (leaving the top for garnish) and nuts to shaker and muddle. Add all other ingredients, shake hard and fine strain into coupe Garnish: Cut 5 thin slices apple. With a toothpick poke a hole through the middle of apple slices then thread rosemary sprig through the hole. Place in middle the of cocktail glass and squeeze fingerlime pieces on top of apple slices. Finish with fingerlime dust Glassware: Coupe
DRINKS WORLD ° 73 Ingredients:GIBSONSOURDOUGH • 50ml Sourdough infused neutral grain spirit • 20ml Spring Onion Noilly Pratt • 1 Bsp Pickle brine Method: Build ingredients in mixing glass and stir Garnish: Olive oil drops Glassware: Nick & Nora Charlie Parker’s in Sydney’s Paddington take a top-to-tail approach to drinks and produce inhouse infusions using a rotary evaporator. From frangipani to lillypilly and even sourdough bread, Charlie Parker’s are pushing the envelope. TECHNOLOGY MANGO x GREEN PEPPERCORN Ingredients: • 22ml Green Peppercorn infused neutral grain spirit • 44ml Dolin Blanc • 22ml Mango Verjus • 22ml Soda water Method: Pour ingredients into Champagne glass from charged iSi canister Garnish: Babies breath flowers Glassware: Champagne THE Ingredients:BLOODTHORN • 20ml Scotch Whisky • 20ml Sloe Gin • 20ml Dry Vermouth • 20ml Fresh lemon juice • 10ml Pineapple syrup (1:1 pineapple juice: sugar) • 2 x Dashes orange bitters Method: Shake all ingredients with ice and fine strain into a chilled coupette. Garnish with a grapefruit twist Garnish: Grapefruit twist Glassware: Coupette INSPIRATION FOR THE CREATION: I originally came up with this drink as a riff on a blood and sand. I believe it’s got the makings of a modern classic because the specs are easy to remember, most good cocktail bars should have all the ingredients or be able to make them easily. It’s approachable but still interesting enough, and of course it’s just damn tasty! FUTURE CLASSICS WINNER ALEX ARCHIBALD Seamstress Melbourne
DonatoAaronCredit:Photo
DW: Have you ever dated a co-worker?
Confessions from behind the stick
BARTENDER: Yes, in my very early days as a bar back I was dating a bartender from my work. It didn’t last long and as a birthday present to myself, I broke up with her.
74 DRINKS WORLD Bartenders go through a lot and see a lot happen, for better or worse. Here, we delve into some of the confessions of a bartender. Totally anonymous, we take a peek behind the curtain of their pet peeves, gripes, hangovers and dating within the industry.
BARTENDER: Surprisingly in 16 years behind the bar probably only one or two days due to being hungover. Not really sure why that is?
DW: What are your biggest pet peeves in the industry? BARTENDER: Customers who are so cheap that when the change is a $1 they still take it. DW: What spirit or drink would you like to see make a comeback? BARTENDER: I guess I would say a classic Manhattan. I very rarely get asked for one but I think of it as a really classy cocktail. I think it says a lot about a person if they order a Manhattan.
DRINKS WORLD: You hate it when a customer orders a… BARTENDER: Multiple mojitos! F#&k those guys...
° FEATURE °
BARTENDER: Actually don’t really have one. I guess I’m not creative enough to come up with one.
DW: How many shifts do you think you have missed or called in sick because you were hungover?
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DW: Hangover remedy? BARTENDER: If I’m smart enough to remember then I’ll drink as much water as possible before I go to sleep and then the next day plenty of fruit juice.
DW: Your alter ego is?
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CRAFTED CAREFULLY. DRINK RESPONSIBLY. Woodford Reserve Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey. 40% Alc. by Vol. The Woodford Reserve Distillery, Versailles, KY ©2017 SMALL BATCH BOURBON AWARD-WINNING FLAVOUR
