The Grapes – The Three Amigos

THREE GRAPE VARIETIES ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR ALL THE CHAMPAGNE YOU WILL EVER DRINK; ONE WHITE AND TWO BLACK GRAPES – CHARDONNAY, PINOT NOIR AND PINOT MEUNIER. THEY CAN BE IN ANY COMBINATION, OR SOLO, BUT WILL USUALLY BE BLENDED WITH EACH OTHER. IT IS ESTIMATED THAT NINE OUT OF EVERY TEN BOTTLES OF CHAMPAGNE ARE A BLEND OF ALL THREE VARIETIES. EACH GRAPE CONTRIBUTES SOMETHING UNIQUE TO THIS GREAT WINE.

WORDS KEN GARGETT

CHARDONNAY IS THE GRAPE OF WHITE Burgundy, as well as so many wonderful still white wines from around the globe. Around 30 per cent of the Champagne region is planted as Chardonnay (up from 24 per cent in the early 1980’s), but it really shines in the Côte des Blancs. Estimates suggest that the percentage of Chardonnay in Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards increases to around 45 to 50 per cent.

Chardonnay is a much leaner beast when planted in Champagne than it is in other regions. The flavour profile offered by Chardonnay naturally varies depending on where in the region it is grown, but look for delicate florals, such as white jasmine, alluring aromas, stonefruit notes (especially with wines that have the benefit of some time in the cellar), a range of citrus flavours and often a minerally note. With time, the flavours move to the deeper stonefruit characters and tropical notes. Orange rind, rockmelon, mango, passion fruit and even pineapple. A pleasing toasty touch can also creep in. A ‘peaches and cream’ character, similar to a great Chevalier Montrachet, can sometimes be seen.

Many consider that Chardonnay is the variety most suited to ageing, whether as a component or bottled solo. The grape’s natural high acidity level contributes to this. It is why we see old vintages of Champagnes, aged Blanc des Blancs, like Salon and Taittinger’s ‘Comtes de Champagne’ age so well.

If one is grape suited to bottling as a single variety, it is Chardonnay – the famous Blanc des Blancs – but whether solo or part of a blend, Chardonnay is the grape that provides finesse, refinement and elegance to Champagne.

Pinot Noir is largely planted on the Montagne de Reims and in the Côte des Bar, where it accounts for 38 per cent of the vineyards – it was a mere 28 per cent in 1982. The ying to Chardonnay’s yang, it is the great grape of Red Burgundy. A far more difficult and temperamental vine to grow than Chardonnay, susceptible to frosts and rot but benefiting from the chalky nature of the region’s soil, Pinot Noir is considered to provide the spine for good Champagne. It is a key component to a Champagne’s structure.

Pinot Noir can provide a luscious, plusher, fleshy character. It will contribute to the complexity of the wine. Flavours can tend to be vegetal if they get out of control, but usually will be in the fruity end of the spectrum, especially red fruits – raspberries, strawberries and cherries. The vintage of 1985 was a great year for Pinot Noir in Champagne and many of the best wine had a noticeable, and delicious, black cherry character.

Great Pinot Noir will contribute beneficially to the ageing of a Champagne, though not quite to the same extent as Chardonnay.

Pinot Noir can be made into a still red wine in the region, as can Meunier, and they can also both, either individually or in combination with each other, be made into Blanc des Noirs.

Pinot Meunier – or perhaps now simply Meunier as early documents suggest that was its original name – is seen as the lesser of the three varieties, the workhorse, the red-headed stepchild if you like.

This is grossly unfair and an image that is quickly changing, as Meunier is a key component of most Champagnes. It accounts for 38 per cent of the plantings, though in 1982 it was 47 per cent, and is mostly located in the Marne Valley. It is considered an ‘offshoot’ of Pinot Noir.

There was a time when Houses would insist they used no Meunier, owned no Meunier, purchased no Meunier, and made absolutely no mention of Meunier in their promotional material, even though it was well known that this might have been a case of certain Champagne Houses being somewhat economical with the truth (yes, it has been known, though the better Houses have put those days behind them).

The reason for this lack of love is partly because this variety is a grape that lacks the complexity, length and ageing potential of the best Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It can be broader and more simple, and for these reasons it is rarely used in the Prestige Champagnes from many producers. Of course, because it is not included in these top wines, it then gets a bad rap – all part of a rather circular argument.

It is clear that Meunier does have positive attributes as well. After all, the legendary House of Krug uses a considerable percentage in their wines. Even the Champagne regarded by many as the greatest ever made, the 1928 Krug, had quite a high proportion. It lasted for decades and still brings massive prices at auction on the very rare occasions it appears. On a more accessible level, the always superb Non-Vintage from Pol Roger has 33 per cent Pinot Meunier and can be reliably cellared for a long spell. So too, the Meunier dominant wines of Jose Michel. There are a great many more examples, so Meunier should never be dismissed. It makes a vital and unique contribution to the wines of Champagne.

Meunier provides a fruitiness and easy, immediate appeal – remember, not all Champagne is destined for decades in the cellar. There will be red fruit flavours and florals. There can also be a slight earthy note, which is very similar to the toastiness from autolysis.

A further advantage of planting Meunier is that it ripens earlier than the other varieties, thus making it more likely that it will avoid frosts. Hence, it can act as a form of financial ‘security blanket’ for growers, and in a region on the cusp of vinegrowing, where locals can usually expect problems in several vintages each decade (climate change will certainly have a say here over the next century), this can mean the difference between bankruptcy and survival. It is also a higher yielding variety than either Chardonnay or Pinot Noir.

Other Grapes – Inevitably, there are some exceptions to the rule. There are a number of varieties from which Champagne can be made, though it is illegal to plant them. However, as they were previously planted and still existing, it is permissible to use these grapes from these vines. They include Gamay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc (sometimes called Pinot Blanc Vrai), Petit Meslier and Arbanne. Although Champagne made from these varieties is very rare, there are some examples. It is worth considering that the reason these varieties are no longer authorised is simply because they are not as good, or as capable of making as important a contribution as the three great grapes of the region. ❧