Storage

WHILE MOST HOUSES WILL TELL CONSUMERS THAT THEIR CHAMPAGNES ARE READY FOR DRINKING IMMEDIATELY ON RELEASE, MANY CHAMPAGNE LOVERS PREFER TO AGE THESE WINES FOR AN EXTENDED PERIOD ON CORK, SEEKING EXTRA COMPLEXITY. THERE IS NO REAL RIGHT OR WRONG HERE. ONE IS NOT NECESSARILY BETTER THAN THE OTHER – JUST DIFFERENT. FRESHNESS AND VITALITY VERSUS DEPTH, RICHNESS AND COMPLEXITY. IT BECOMES A MATTER OF PERSONAL TASTE. A SOLUTION IS TO BUY A SUFFICIENT QUANTITY SO THAT YOU CAN DO BOTH!

WORDS KEN GARGETT

THERE IS, HOWEVER, LITTLE POINT IN keeping Champagne (or any wine, for that matter), if it is not stored properly.

The key is to understand and accept that no matter how much you tell yourself that the cupboard under the stairs or the nice cool room under the house is suitable, it is not (this is a sin of which I am as guilty as anyone and which I have learnt the hard way). If you do not have refrigerated, or at the very least, air-conditioned, storage then you should use a professional outfit. Otherwise, unless your wines are consumed shortly after purchase, you’ll be doing them, and yourself, a disservice.

The keys are a consistent, low temperature; darkness; and a lack of vibration. It is also important to ensure a reasonable but not excessive level of humidity.

Light harms wine. Direct sunlight is obvious but even dim light can be harmful. Full darkness is preferable. This is why Champagne, as with so many wines, is bottled in dark green bottles. An exception is Louis Roederer’s Cristal, which is, of course, in a clear bottle. However, these come wrapped in yellow cellophane to avoid the impact of ultraviolet light. If you are so fortunate as to have Cristal in your cellar, do not remove the cellophane until you intend drinking the bottle. Also, if you have bought in quantity, leave the bottles in the case whenever possible.

As Champagne does not enjoy the benefits of a screw cap closure, humidity is a potential concern. A certain level is necessary to prevent the cork drying out and allowing the ingress of oxygen, but too much can cause mould. The labels can also be damaged by excessive humidity – how much of a concern that is depends on the individual, especially if resale is being considered, but it is preferable to avoid. The level recommended varies but most consider something around the 70 to 75 per cent level to be ideal. There is often debate about leaving a bottle in the fridge for a lengthy period. It might be fine from the perspective of temperature, but some experts consider that the low level of humidity found in fridges to be damaging in the long-term. Other experts contend it is not an issue.

The ideal temperature for storing Champagne seems to vary with every expert, some even going so far as to insist slightly different temperatures for different styles – for example, higher or lower for vintage than for non-vintage. What is agreed without debate is that whatever temperature is selected, it should be consistent. Varying the temperature damages the wine. It can cause pressure on the cork, forcing it in and out, even if only minutely, which in turn allows the ingress of oxygen. Not a good thing! It is believed that changes in temperature can also force chemical reactions within the wine, damaging it. The range suggested usually sits within the range of 10 to 15°C (50 to 60°F). Lower temperatures ensure that the wine ages more slowly, and in a perfect world, 10 to 12°C would be the aim.

Vibration has been studied to a far lesser extent than other potentially damaging effects on a wine, but all anecdotal experience confirms that a wine subjected to constant vibration does not show as well as one that has remained steady.

Conventional wisdom suggests that Champagne should, of course, be stored on its side, as with all wines not under screw cap (a slight angle is usually also acceptable). There is research pertaining specifically to Champagne which contravenes this, including some from the CIVC, suggesting that Champagne stored on its side ages quicker than bottles stored upright, as oxygen can sneak in when the elasticity in a cork fades after contact with the moisture from the wine. It is an area that needs more investigation.

It is wise to avoid storing other items in the cellar if there is any chance that they may give off odours. Items such as tins of paint or turpentine. There is always a possibility of these odours inveigling their way onto the cork or even into the wine and spoiling the bottle.

Finally, ensure a good system of recording what you have in your cellar and make certain you keep track of what has gone. While it is always nice to find a forgotten gem after many years, there is little more frustrating than coming across prized bottles long after their optimum drinking period has passed, or searching high and low through boxes for a bottle that you are sure you still have somewhere. ❧