Food Pairing

LIKE ANY GREAT WINE, CHAMPAGNE CAN BE SO MUCH MORE WHEN COMBINED WITH THE IDEAL FOOD, THOUGH UNLIKE MOST GREAT WINES, CHAMPAGNE CAN EASILY BE ENJOYED ON ITS OWN. THE GREAT ADVANTAGE OF CHAMPAGNE, WHEN IT COMES TO PAIRING IT WITH FOOD, IS ITS AMAZING VERSATILITY.

WORDS KEN GARGETT

TALK CHAMPAGNE AND FOOD AND WE have those foods which match perfectly, and those from the region. Of course, many fall in both camps. And these days, the region’s position as the crossroads of France benefits it greatly in ensuring that all manner of produce and goodies are available to be enjoyed with Champagne. This has helped compensate, to a degree, as the region does not seemed to have developed quite the full and unique cuisine that most regions of France can boast. Not to say that there are not many delicious options.

Cheese is, of course, stellar – but then one could say that about every region throughout France. The Brie is world renowned, deservedly so, though please avoid the industrial efforts that one finds lining supermarket shelves. Brie de Meaux comes from near the Aisne district of Champagne. It is claimed that Brie de Meaux has been made in the region since the 9th century and an early fan was Charlemagne himself – but then the Champenois have always been peerless marketers. The cheese is coated with dry salt before ageing for a month. There are many “sub-species” of Brie that are equally worth trying. Langres is a soft cow’s milk cheese, with a slightly briny character, highly regarded as a match for Champagne – many will suggest that there is none better. Maroilles is a slightly hardened cow’s milk cheese, best enjoyed in its youth before its pungency impacts on the wine. For something a little decadent, the triple-cream Explorateur is worth seeking out (Boursault is another). Cendre des Riceys is a soft cheese which has been rolled in the ashes of burnt Pinot Noir vines. Chaource is another popular soft cow’s milk cheese from the region.

The cheese choices are extensive if one is going local and endless if one goes beyond the boundaries. For me, while it might not come from the Champagne region, nor even France, one of the great food and wine matches is a chunk of ParmigianoReggiano with a richer, more complex Champagne. Heaven.

Of course, there is so much more on offer in Champagne than just cheese. The region is famous for game – indeed, many of the local winemakers are also keen hunters. Wild boar is popular, as are deer, ducks, hares, rabbits and a range of game birds. You’ll find them all in local restaurants.

This leads us to andouillettes, (a type of sausage, but as closely related to the sausages most of us are familiar with, as the Statue of Liberty is to a garden gnome) and in particular, andouillettes de Troyes. There is no escaping that it is one of those love-itor-would-not-try-it-at-the-point-of-a-gun dishes. It is made from pork chitterlings, a nice way of saying pigs’ intestines and stomachs, and has been enjoyed in the region since the Middle Ages (for the record, I am definitely in the ‘love-it’ camp). It is often served with cabbage, in the form of a local choucroute – pickled cabbage. Andouillettes are seasoned with onions, spices, pepper and herbs, before they are wrapped in pork bowels and then slowly simmered in a stock for five to six hours. What’s not to like! Pigs’ trotters and the smoked tongue of a sheep are also popular.

Boudin blanc, a white pork sausage, is a local specialty, traditionally enjoyed over the Christmas period – with a glass of Champagne, of course. Local legend suggests it had its origins in the proclamation in 1626, by Cardinal Richelieu, to prohibit duels. A tenuous link, possibly, but apparently the nobleman, Chamarande, was a keen duelist. He found himself in some serious trouble and so fled to the local town of Rethel to avoid prosecution (the sausage is sometimes referred to as the boudin blanc de Rethel). He opened his own establishment and his fame grew, thanks to this sausage he created – unlike most sausages, it eschews the use of bread or starch – pork, shallots, milk, eggs, salt and pepper is it, though some allow the addition of foie gras or truffles! Some recipes do now allow for starch. To cook, slowly fry it in butter. Its fame was such that it was even served to English nobility. In 2001, boudin blanc de Rethel gained PGI status (protected geographical indication). Such is its popularity, in 1986, the ‘Brotherhood of Boudin blanc de Rethel’ was created, in order for its many fans to enjoy it with fellow devotees.

This is also a region known for mushrooms (a mushroom risotto is a brilliant match for an older, richer, more complex Champagne, as are black truffles – white truffles work better with a blanc de blancs) and ham, but the great treasure is found in the local rivers and lakes. Trout, eels, pike, crayfish and much more all find their way to the table, often in a matelote (which sounds like it is something that should be used in a bullfight but is actually a fish stew with wine, usually red but white versions are known, and why not, given the local offering – purists will insist it include eel).

In season, the region is well known for its white asparagus. One authority even claimed that Champagne was famous for its salads – which I don’t think was intended as an insult.

Desserts are where things get trickier. It seems traditional to serve a Rosé Champagne with dessert – we’ve all seen it countless times. For me, this is the laziest, most thoughtless attempt at food and wine pairing imaginable – an insult to the wine. It almost never works – a dry wine with a sweet dish: what do they expect – and I can only think of two reasons that it is done (and neither reason is a good one). First, they look for somewhere to put the Rosé Champagne and can find nowhere else, so they hide it at the end of the meal. May one suggest that instead, they try it with lamb, salmon,

pigeon, game or so many other possibilities. Few wines work as well with duck. Secondly, because the colour of the wine is so often a delightful festive hue, it seems that some people relegate the wine to that of nothing more than a frivolous fizz and have it at the conclusion of the meal to add a splash of blush. If you want to enjoy Champagne with dessert, simply opt for one of the sweeter styles. Don’t ruin your Rosé, or your dessert.

One possible exception – you might be served the famous biscuit rose de Reims, their pink biscuits, which are often dipped in Champagne to be enjoyed. One you can get away with!

Desserts are hardly the only ‘should avoid’ moment with Champagne. Artichokes are fairly obvious. Citrus juices, raw onions, peanuts, olives and foods that are too spicy are also best ignored as a match, though Champagne will handle some spice better than most foods. Some authorities feel it is a disaster with eggs and also with tropical fruits – though much depends on how they are served.

Anything too acidic is simply wrong and beware vinegar.

So what works? So many things. Simple matches are often the best and a little common sense will get you a long way. A fresh, light opening dish; perhaps fresh seafood, screams out for a good Blanc de Blancs. What better for a freshly shucked oyster, or a little caviar? Game dishes need a richer, heavier Champagne; perhaps a Blanc de Noirs, or consider this the place to serve that Rosé. And so on. A simple meal with no focus on either the wine or the food – perhaps the perfect time for a pleasant non-vintage.

Balance is key. Never allow the food to overwhelm your Champagne, in any aspect. And remember, there are occasions when a great Champagne can be taken to even loftier heights by the right dish. ❧

NV Ruinart Brut Rosé, Reims

Still living up to its House style of Chardonnay dominant (45 per cent), this rose Champagne has had 19 per cent still Pinot Noir wine blended into the cuvee to result in a lovely bright, fresh, fragrant rosé Champagne with notes of wild strawberry, pink peppercorn, pomegranate, red cherries and a chalky minerality, which will cut through the richness of the pâté.

Chicken liver paté with currant relish, cornichons, and toasted brioche

Chicken livers are marinated in garlic, port, madeira, thyme, bay leaf. They are gently cooked in butter and blended with whole eggs. It is served with current relish, cornichons, watercress and toasted brioche. Currant relish is dried currants simmered until plump then cooked with orange peel, port, cinnamon, sugar and red currant jelly. Served with cornichons.

2002 House of Arras Vintage Brut ‘EJ Carr LD (Late Disgorged) Tasmania

This is the 5th release of Ed Carr’s Late Disgorged Sparkling, with the philosophy that it is ready to drink when it is released. Chardonnay dominant (54 per cent with Pinot Noir). The sparkling spends 10 years on lees to develop complexity, creaminess & richness. With notes of stone fruit, peaches, honey nougat, sourdough and truffle. The richness pairs well with the duck fat cooked pork.

Pork rillettes with pickled vegetables and grilled sourdough

Pork neck are confit with duck fat, shredded and then mix with Dijon mustard, whole grain mustard and confit onion. Finish with parsley. Served with grilled sourdough and pickled vegetables (zucchini, beetroot, cauliflower) and Dijon aioli underneath the pickled vegetables.

NV Billecart-Salmon Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ

Inspired by the Iconic Krug Clos de Mesnil – 100 per cent Chardonnay, spending a few years in oak, before bottled for 3-4 years prior to disgorgement. With a low dosage, it is an Extra Brut in style, with notes of refreshing citrus, yellow grapefruit, lemon, star anise and chalky fresh acidity, ideal for the citrus cured Kingfish

Citrus cured kingfish and watermelon tartare with feta avocado and cucumber

Citrus cured kingfish served with watermelon, feta, avocado, cucumber finished with a lemon dressing. Red sorrel on top.

NV G.H. Mumm Cordon Rouge, Reims

Pinot Noir dominant (45 per cent) along with Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, this is a classic aperitif Style from the 4th largest Champagne House, dry, Fresh, lemon zest, red apples- ideal palate cleansing with the “Fruits of the Sea”

PLATEAU DE FRUITS DE MER

Moreton bay bug , Tiger Prawns, Alaskan king crab ($20 each) All cooked but served COLD. Served with cocktail sauce and a lemon wedge

2006 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Vintage, Épernay

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier fruit from the Côtes de Blanc. The house style of fresh pears, white peach, lemon, brioche, toasted almonds with a fine acid line. The toasty, nutty notes an ideal pairing with the creamy goats curd, mushroom and pine nuts of the gnocchi.

Sauté of herb gnocchi with portobello mushrooms, butternut pumpkin, goat’s curd, pine nuts and sage

Gnocchi romaine (milk + butter + semolina + eggs yolk) finished with mixed herbs (tarragon, parsley and chives), lightly floured and sautéed till golden brown. Served with portobello mushrooms, butternut pumpkin, sautéed white onions and pine nuts. Finish with beurre noisette. On top Woodside goats curd, shaved parmesan and mixed cress.

2004 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne, Reims

100 per cent Chardonnay, first produced by Taittinger in 1952, with all fruit sourced from 6 Grand Cru sites. A minimum of 8 years on lees, resulting in a rich, nutty, creamy complex wine, with white flowers, pineapple, candied lemon. Arguably one of the best Champagnes in the world. The richness pairs well with the decadence of the “Tart Du Jour”

Apple tarte tatin, cinnamon ice cream, calvados crème fraiche

Caramelized apple tart, puff pastry, cinnamon ice cream. Finished with crème fraiche aromatised with calvados