The Protection of Champagne

THE COMITÉ INTERPROFESSIONNEL DU VIN DE CHAMPAGNE, KNOWN TO ALL AS THE CIVC, IS A GOVERNMENTAL ORGANISATION WHOSE REMIT IS THE PROTECTION AND PROMOTION OF CHAMPAGNE – HOUSES, GROWERS, COOPERATIVES AND THE WINE ITSELF.

WORDS KEN GARGETT

WHILST THEY DO SHARE SOME OF THE characteristics of a government entity (for example, they swear openness and transparency, but seem to have absolutely no concept of what that really means), unlike many such bodies, they are active and work tirelessly to promote and protect the region and its wines. They are also heavily involved in research and education.

Protection around the planet often requires litigation, and the CIVC are not afraid to resort to the courts. As is apparent, the name ‘Champagne’, is a priceless asset and trademark. Many have tried to use it, from perfumes, bath foams, biscuits, shampoos, fruit juices, mineral waters and soft drinks, and of course sparkling wines from around the world, and found that the CIVC is quick to the defence. Unauthorised use, even as part of a business or simply a nickname or adopted name of a person, if involved in the wine industry, is likely to bring about a date with the courts.

Over the years, the role of the CIVC has varied. Until 1990, it was responsible for establishing the price of grapes each harvest. It still maintains a role in setting limits on production, which is necessary to ensure prices are maintained, as well as in the regulation of the size of the harvest. Its success has encouraged other regions to initiate similar entities, both in France and abroad. Less visible is the never-ending struggle to overcome any internal conflicts between Houses, cooperatives and growers, which often have very different agendas and desires.

The CIVC has established nearly twenty offices around the globe to assist in the promotion and protection of Champagne. In Australia, the Champagne Bureau in Sydney (tel – 61 2 95558891, www. champagne.com.au), represents the CIVC. Opened in 1971, it is now run by Elisabeth Drysdale and her team. The Bureau looks after all enquiries in relation to Champagne and also organises tastings and dinners in various cities, trade tastings and the biennial ‘Vin de Champagne’ Awards. Launched in 1974, and the first of its kind anywhere in the world, this quickly became a highly regarded competition for both professionals and amateurs, with the winners spending a few weeks in Champagne, visiting and tasting throughout the region.

The CIVC also maintain a website (www.champagne.fr), which provides information about the wines and the region to the wine media, wine industry and consumers. They are financed by subscriptions from members, based on the grapes harvested and the shipments of bottles. The annual budget is estimated at just under 20 million Euros, which is roughly spent in thirds – 1/3rd to each of general expenses; research; and promotion and protection. The executive board is equally represented by Houses

and growers, six nominees of each at a time. Specialist committees and working groups cover every aspect of Champagne and its production.

The CIVC was established in April 1941, during the German occupation of the region. This may seem an odd time to be worrying about such matters, but quite the contrary. The region needed unity in dealing with both the Germans and the Vichy regime. Robert-Jean de Vogüe, head of Moet et Chandon at the time, was appointed to deal with the occupiers. de Vogüe shared the Presidency with Maurice Doyard, who was running his own House.

This was far from the first attempt at regulating and protecting the region and its wines. As far back as 1845, French authorities had backed attempts to prevent anyone using the name ‘Champagne’ as a general term for sparkling wines. In 1882, the Union of Champagne Houses, formerly the Syndicat du Commerce des Vins de Champagne, was formed, followed by local trade entities and organisations representing growers. In 1911, the time of the riots, there were joint meetings to look towards setting the price of grapes and defining the ‘echelle des crus’ system. Authorities provided a delimitation of the region in 1919, which was made official in 1927. The official delimitation of the Champagne AOC took place in 1936. Prior to that, groups for the promotion and the protection of Champagnes were established and in 1935, the forerunner to the CIVC was created.

The CIVC may be a bureaucratic entity, but they have proved their worth many times over as both a staunch defender of the region and a tireless promoter of the wines. Their value as an instigator of a great deal of the research which has gone on in the region, to the enormous benefit of the vineyards, the wines and the producers, is inestimable. ❧